RV-Archive.digest.vol-bu
August 21, 1996 - September 01, 1996
the rib flange.
3. I think part of the reason I am stuck with what lengths each of the
angles should be, is because I am reading Van's instructions/plans
and also Frank Justice's instructions.
According to the plans, the tiedown spreader angle is 7" long.
I ASSUME the rest of the spreader angles are also 7" long, but I
can't really verify that from the plans! Also, the plans show the
reinforcing angle at STA 63.5 to be 7 5/8" long. I ASSUME that the
rest of the reinforcing angles are also 7 5/8" long!
I HATE ASSUMING things... it makes me nervous, ya know?
Has anybody been able to verify the lengths of all the angles from
the plans?
The final curve ball to me was Frank Justice's instructions. It
looks like he uses a 7 1/2" angle on what he calls the "first leading
edge rib". What's that? The one nearest the tank? And why is this
one 1/8" shorter than all the other reinforcing angles?
4. Finally, it sounds like ALL reinforcing angles get riveted to their
neighboring ribs. That's what I would have expected. The only reason
I'm getting thrown on this, is because my plans show that the tip
ribs (where the reinforcing angles are "inside" the rib flanges) do
NOT get riveted to the rib face. Please see the top of DWG 20, second
picture in from the left. It details the reinforcing angles for
the leading edge ribs at stations 83.5, 93.5, and 103.5.
Am I reading the plans wrong? Or is this a mistake? I talked to
Tom at Van's about this and he just said "yeah, rivet all rib faces
to their reinforcing angles, that's why the angles are there!". But,
he wouldn't comment on the plans and whether or not they are wrong.
Aside from trying to make me feel stupid, I didn't get much out of him.
I try to take the plans as gospel, but have already found a few mistakes
in them. So I don't know when to believe them and when not to!
Sorry this is so long, but I have a tough time "making a call" on things
(no matter how little they appear), unless I'm 100% sure of what I'm doing!
(What was it Van's said about my pink butt?)
Thanks, as always, for everyone's help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stephen Heinlein
sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com
(RV-6/6A... "trying" to attach right wing ribs and angles)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobh(at)synopsys.com (Bob Haan) |
| Subject: | Re: BAC WIng Kit |
> Other than "time is money", any perspectives on the BAC WIng Kit? WOuld
>sure like to hear others opinions before ordering my wings soon.
>
>I also did read the archives.....
>
>Jon Scholl
>bcg007(at)aol.com
I used the BAC Kit and recommend it highly because of the time saved,
quality, documentation, etc.
However, one of the nice features of the kit is that the aileron hinges and
hinge reinforcement plates are NC Drilled to fit the wing perfectly. This
eliminated the time and frustration in aligning the aileron with the wing
and then drilling these components. Even the aileron stops are
pre-drilled. BAC has computed the dimensions for these mounting holes and
NC Drilled them to these dimensions. Mine came out perfect just by
following BAC's instruction/construction drawings. Other builders told me
that aileron alignment was difficult and time consuming.
Similiarly, the bell-crank assembly is easier to get positioned and aligned
correctly. The neutral position is pre-drilled.
Receiving all the BAC components anodized is also a nice feature.
In summary, not only do you save time but the quality of your project is
much better.
Bob Haan
Portland, OR
RV6-A starting fuse
bobh(at)synopsys.com
Evenings 503-636-3550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scholl Jon" <scholl.jon(at)smtpgw.bcg.com> |
| Subject: | RVs on floats... |
Does anyone know the price??
Jon Scholl
bcg007(at)aol.com
Wing$ on order
_______________________________________________________________________________
>Howdy Listers!
> I recall seeing a small blurb on a guy in Canada who had put his
>RV-6 on a pair of custom floats, and as I recall was planning to offer them
>as a kit. I also recall having seen a snapshot of this in a collage-type
>page in Vans' brochure.
> There is a picture of this plane on the cover of the 16 Years of the RV-Ator
> book. The plane was built by Eustace Bowhay of Copper Island Aviation of
> Blind Bay, BC, Canada.
> Yes, I understand that he does sell kits for his RV-6 float plane
adaptation.
> Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gregory Dallas Roberts <groberts(at)telcomplus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: propellers & altitude???? |
There are many prop designs available for the little piston planes and each
have their own merits depending on the mission that you are trying to
accomplish. Each of these fixed props have good and bad output depending on
the conditions that you impose on them and the aircraft. Only one design
will accomodate most of these flight conditions and that is the properly
used constant speed prop.
>>Props are the transmissions of our aircraft and you must choose the right
>>"gear" for the flight profile that you typically fly. If you live in the
>>west and operate from high altitude airports, and assuming you have a 160 hp
>>engine, you might think about installing a 68 X 68 (low gear) prop which
>>will turn up above 3000 RPM @ SL but will give you good take-off and climb at
>>high altitude airports. At 8000' I would expect it to turn about 2850 RPM
>>and at 12,500' about 2700 RPM.
>>
>>Anybody out there got a 68 X 68 that can confirm/dispute the above.
>>
>>Gary Corde
>>RV-6 N211GC
>
>
>Complicating things is inability to compare props from different
>manufacturers or even with the same prop maker. A local RV-6A pilot has had
>three props from a well known prop maker, all the sam diameter and pitch
>with a wide variation in performance. I think this is typical of custom
>made props. I'd think that there would be more consistancy from prop to
>prop in the Sensenich FP metal line.
> Speaking of Sensenich. Does anyone know how they're coming with the FP
>for the 180 Lycoming? Hopefully, this prop will not have a redline lower
>than the engine redline.
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
>
>
>
Greg Roberts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
| Subject: | Re: Nut Plates & Taps |
I agree. But actually there are at least three "phillips screwdrivers", the
phillips, pozi-drive, and reed and prince. They all have different tips and
of course come in different sizes, 1,2,3, ect. Quality is the name of the
game when it comes to screwdrivers. There is a defference between the
strength of a good screwdriver or tip and a cheap one. Also you need to
replace even the best when they start to wear.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn#80039
>I sure hope all you people who are having problems with nutplates being
>too tight are using the proper screwdriver. There are two different
>styles of so-called "phillips-head" screwdrivers, and if you aren't
>using one that fits the screw properly, or are using a worn-out one, it
>makes quite a bit of difference.... I mention this only because I
>haven't had much problem with the nut plates -- yes they can be hard to
>get screws in and out of the first time or two, but I've never found it
>necessary to take extraordinary measures like some people seem to be
>doing.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6
>Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>randall(at)edt.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on riveting spreader angles to ribs in -6 wing |
On Wed, 21 Aug 1996 Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
> Seems to me that we use our rivets in SHEAR, not TENSION. Therefore, it does
> not matter which side the shop head goes on. I don't think the rivet, as a
> fastener, has but a tiny bit of strength in the tension mode.
I'm pretty sure a properly installed rivet actually has more strength in
tension than in shear in most cases. (I don't have the rivet strength chart in
front of me) I seem to remember that the values for tension and shear
were reasonably close to each other. There are certainly lots of places on
an RV where the rivets are loaded in tension - the inboard aileron bracket
for one. That is certainly a structurally critical part.
Properly installed, the shop head should be just as strong in tension as
the factory head. Standard practice is to put the factory head against
the thinnest part, but I think this is to prevent the thinner metal from
stretching and forming a bulge around the rivet. I would think this is
mainly a cosmetic issue.
Curt Reimer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 1) Slid. canopy seal, 2) Tail wheel steering |
John is exactly right. If you survey RVs at any large fly-in you'll notice
about a 50/50 mix between loose and taught tailwheel springs. It's all
personal preference. I've tried it both ways and personnally I prefer my
springs snug. To me it feels more positive and easier to handle. Everyone
has their own opinion.
Rick McBride
RV6 N523JC
350 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
You wrote:
>
>
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>
>- All New Windows Archive Search Utility -
>
>
>Here's the question. There are some features that are only available when
>programming for Windows 95 and NT targets that I would like to use. They
>are *not* available in the Win32 implimentation for Windows 3.1 either.
>If I released this program as a Windows 95/NT distribution only, how many
>Windows users on the List would be unabled to use it or not able to upgrade
>to Windows 95?
>
>
>- RV-List and Zenith-List Archive CDROM! -
>
>FAQs, the latest version of Frank Justice's manual (if he is willing), and
>any other data or documentation people might want (suggestions are welcome
>and requested).
>
>
>Would people be interested in this? I will have to sell about 30 CDs to
>break even on the hardware/setup costs. Having a permanent copy of the
>Archives that don't have to be stored on your local harddrive seems like a
>'must-have' for just about any builder! I bet they'd make great gifts... :-)
>
>Any and all input is welcome!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Matt Dralle
Hi Matt,
First, sorry I haven't gotten my $5 in the mail to you yet, but it is coming!
I think some form of getting the archive under control is a great idea. Just
had an idea and want to know what you think of it. What if, at the end of
1996 for example, you made a CD of the archive and then cut the archive at
that point and started a new one. Anyone who wants to go back prior to the
end of 96 next year can buy the CD (could you compress it onto floppies for a
price too?) and the archive could start growing again. Maybe you or someone
could make the historical (pre-97 in this example) available on a web site for
browsing, but you wouldn't have to keep manipulating that 18 Meg and growing
sucker.
Just a thought fellows. OK, everybody, Ready . . . Fire! . . .Aim . . . :)
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Standley <Gary_Standley(at)ccm.co.intel.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: Quickbuild |
Text item:
GEE! THAT'S ONE HECK OF A DISCOUNT CONSIDERING THE PRICE OF THE EMP IS SEVERAL
HUNDRED DOLLARS LESS THAN $2K. YOU THINK I COULD BUY A BUNCH OF EMPS AT FACTORY
PRICE THEN TURN THEM IN FOR $2K CREDIT EACH. I COULD GET AN RV FOR FREE. KINDA
LIKE A HARRIER WHEN YOU DRINK ENOUGH PEPSI. I ALWAYS LIKED COKE BETTER ANYWAY.
>I have the empenage and wing kit which I have been working on for
>a bit of time. Does anyone know If I would be able to buy the
>Van's quickbuild kit for the fuselage and the rest ?
>
>
Absolutely--I think Vans discounts $2K if you already bought the emp.
Jon Scholl
bcg007(at)aol.com
Text item: External Message Header
The following mail header is for administrative use
and may be ignored unless there are problems.
***IF THERE ARE PROBLEMS SAVE THESE HEADERS***.
Subject: Re: RV-List: Question re: Quickbuild
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 22:54:03 -0400
From: aol.com!Bcg007(at)matronics.com
f.intel.com (8.7.4/8.7.3) with SMTP id UAA27139 for | From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
>--------------
>I think some form of getting the archive under control is a great idea. Just
>had an idea and want to know what you think of it. What if, at the end of
>1996 for example, you made a CD of the archive and then cut the archive at
>that point and started a new one. Anyone who wants to go back prior to the
>end of 96 next year can buy the CD (could you compress it onto floppies for a
>price too?) and the archive could start growing again. Maybe you or someone
>could make the historical (pre-97 in this example) available on a web site for
>browsing, but you wouldn't have to keep manipulating that 18 Meg and growing
>sucker.
>
>Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
>Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
>--------------
Hum, this is a possibility. Perhaps I could chop the archive into year-based
pieces 1990, 1991, 1992, etc. I'll give this some thought...
As for floppies... ah, well, that's a lot of floppies... :-)
Thanks for the input,
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | RVs on floats... |
> Does anyone know the price??
Last time I talked to him he still hadn't settled on a price yet, but I
got the impression it would be around $10k as a kit (you build the
floats) and $20k if they build em. But they still aren't in actual
production (I'm not sure he will ever get to that point -- it may end up
being a plans, or plans and kits only), and anyhow that was for straight
floats, the amphibs are a sure to be more.
The floats (for the original straight floats anyhow, I'm not sure about
the amphibs) are Zenair kit floats. The work that Eustace and his
partner Jim Rowe have been doing is pretty much on the struts and attach
h/w for RVs (RV-6 only so far). Which is pretty significant, as you
know if you've ever looked closely at floatplanes. He's commissioning
the engineering work to qualified personnel and gets it all certified by
Transport Canada, so it's a first rate job he's doing. Even if he never
does sell any more than the plans, that's a LOT of work, time and money
that can be saved by those who come after.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Nut Plates & Taps |
I said:
> I sure hope all you people who are having problems with nutplates being
> too tight are using the proper screwdriver.
And Jim Cimino responded:
>
> I agree. But actually there are at least three "phillips screwdrivers", the
> phillips, pozi-drive, and reed and prince. They all have different tips and
> of course come in different sizes, 1,2,3, ect.
Even though I'm the one who opened my big mouth in the first place, I
have to admit I don't even know exactly which one is really the right
one for the screws we are using! I think I just got lucky, but mine is
wearing out and I want to be sure to replace it with the right one(s).
Does anyone know which of these screwdrivers is the "correct" one for
our #8 flush heads supplied by Vans? How about the #6s that some people
use for wingtips, etc? Also, "Quality" was mentioned. Who makes the
good ones?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | RV-6A for sale, Price Correction |
>
>I just talked to the owner and he says the price is $45,000, not the figure
originally quoted. I've never seen the plane but a local man in Seattle
>posted an ad on the internet for an RV-6A with 150 HP engine, Pacesetter
>prop, standard instruments, 130 TTAFE for sale. The owner/builder only
>wants $45,000 for it. Any RV-6A in decent condition is worth at least
>$50,000. If I had the money sitting around I wouldn't be telling the world
>about this aircraft; I'd have already bought it and advertised it for $55,000.
>
>You can reach the owner/builder, Mel Block, at 1-509-633-1513 in Eastern
>Washington. His daughter's boyfriend, James, has flown the aircraft and he
>can be reached at 1-206-325-9055 in Seattle.
>
>The aircraft also has 720 Comm, transponder with mode C and a Garmin GPS.
>
>Hey, all you guys that just bought the quick build kit should have bought
>this aircraft. Only $25K more and it comes with engine, instruments and
>avionics.
>
>Let the bidding begin------
>
Sorry about the wrong price at first; the airplane is still one Hell of a
bargain.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spreader angle clarification |
Bill replied:
> >This is just to clarify riveting reinforcement angles to the rib face
(always)
>
> NOT TRUE! This was my main concern regarding the original questioner!
My
> impression was that he believed the ooutermost reinforcement angles were
to
> be mounted to the ribs. The last 5 outboard spreader angles that are
> mounted on the same side as the main ribs are not attached to any ribs at
all.
Sorry, I did not have my plans in front of me when last I wrote. The
spreaders are called out at 7", the reinforcement angles are called out at
7 5/8", though I had to trim some to fit between the rib flanges. Bill,
while I was not picking on you alone (just happened to use your msg to
reply to), I think we are still talking at odds about what a spreader bar
is and what a rib reinforcement is. The rib reinforcements (there are 13
per panel) are riveted to the main or leading edge ribs they are next to,
always. The five spreader angles per panel are not even close enough to a
rib to be considered, they are never riveted to anything but the spar. I
think you are talking about the spreaders, not the reinforcements, and you
are correct about them.
I also took the original question to be requesting a clarification of sheet
#20, where the rib attach details in the upper left corner appear. The
middle drawing does not show the reinforcement angle attached to the rib
with rivets and there is no note saying that they were omitted for clarity.
They were. Mr. Heinlein, if this is what you were asking about, look at
sheet #13. Each angle is shown as a 'ghost' in the spar top-down view. If
an angle is co-located with a rib, it is 7 1/2 or 7 5/8 long and riveted to
the rib; the manual photos show this. If it is not located with a rib, it
is 7" long and is only attached to the spar with rivets. The tiedown is
attached with bolts to the spar and one of the spreaders. I had this same
confusion. I resorted to spreading out all the plans, looking at all the
photos, and watching the Orndorff tape several times before I finally
caught on. Unfortunately, since these parts don't have proper names, and
two different drawings call out the stations differently, it is hard to
talk about them.
By the way, if you question WAS about those isolated spreader bars, I
humbly apologise for taking up bandwidth by going on about the
reinforcements.
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More info on riveting spreader angles to ribs in -6 wing |
Heh! Should have read Stephen's note before I replied to Bill's. Yes,
Stephen, I had the lengths backwards. The absolute length for a
reinforcement angle is 7 5/8", but may need to be trimmed slightly to fit
inside spar and/or rib flanges. I cut all mine to 7 5/8 and then trimmed
to fit. The plans are excellent, but sometimes little things creep in. In
that case, use other sources of info. The sketches and photos are great
(pictures ARE worth 1k words) and any opportunity to view someone elses
work is also helpful. Asking here was a good choice, too. See how we all
fought to help you out :)
As to your idea for eliminating the pop-rivets, I wouldn't. On the main
ribs behind the fuel tank, you will not be able to buck the rivets in any
case, as the forward spar web is in the way. On the tip leading edge, you
would have difficulty riveting the skins once the ribs are in place or,
conversly, difficulty with the ribs once the skin is on. It is possible to
do, I think, but personally I would not want to take on the extra work.
PatK - RV-6A - Ready for left main skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wdb(at)BBS.justcompute.com |
| Subject: | New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
I would buy the $99 subscription.
Warren Branscomb
PO Bx 745
Belleville, MI 48112-0745
Fax 313/699-7101
E-mail:
wdb(at)bbs.justcompute.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobh(at)synopsys.com (Bob Haan) |
| Subject: | FIrewall Priming |
I am starting the fuse kit. Did not plan to prime the stainless steel sheet
but today Vans said that some builders are not priming the firewall's
aluminum compnents (except the steel components) for reasons of fire
reduction and ease of cleaning.
Based on this, I am considering priming only the steel components and
priming them with rust-oleum for outdoor charcoal grills due to its high
heat, hard surface, and ease of cleaning specification.
Thoughts pro and con regarding:
1. Not priming the Aluminum compnents.
2. Using rust-oleum for grills on the steel components?
Bob Haan
Portland, OR
RV6-A starting fuse
bobh(at)synopsys.com
Evenings 503-636-3550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barrie Nemetchek <BarrieN(at)IEI.COM> |
Can anyone tell me what the quickbuild is all about? I can't seem to
find any information about it. Also, is a quickbuild kit available for
the RV-6A?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Safety Harness Tongues for Use with Crotch Straps |
First of all let me apologize for using tongues and crotch in the same phrase
for a G rated list, but I have info for those of you contemplating the crotch
strap option in your RVs.
The right side lap belt supplied by Van's is AM-SAFE P/N 503086-405-2855.
The short tongue provided (500535) on this belt will not accommodate the
additional thickness of the crotch strap bracket. The tongue cannot be
modified without substantially weakening it according to AM-SAFE.
The correct long tongue for use with crotch strap is AM-SAFE P/N 442850 and
is a full .250" longer. Your safety harness has the phone number of AM-SAFE
on the labels. I'm getting new long tongues sent to me, I will retrofit my
harness and have the wrapped tail end (not the critical strength end, the
loose adjusting end) resewn locally.
I have advised Tom at Van's and he has concurred.
Cheers,
Gary VanRemortel
N1GV (reserved for RV-6A, engine on, cowlings this week)
Vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | khorton(at)magmacom.com (Kevin Horton) |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
>I have the MAC two-axis servos in my 6A (not yet flying). Back then I didn't
>know about the neat joystick grip MAC was soon to introduce, so I fashioned
>my own relay deck for the coolie hat arrangement. (Now I have the MAC grip
>with the independent switches and don't really need the relay except for
>copilot trim.) I anticipated the runaway trim failure mode and tried to head
>it off by designing a fifth relay in series with the 4 relays controlling
>up/down and left/right. Any trim input keys this extra relay at the same
>time as it keys one of the four trim relays. For runaway trim to occur, two
>relays would both have to fail in the closed position simultaneously... an
>unlikely event, I hope :-)
--snip--
>
>Bill Boyd
-------------------
Bill, did you have some way of detecting if the fifth relay had failed
closed? It seems to me that it could fail closed, and you could fly for
months without knowing it, until a second relay failed closed giving a trim
runaway. If a manufacturer proposed such an arrangement we (Aircraft
Certification branch in Transport Canada) would require some sort of
periodic preflight or maintenance check to detect a dormant failure of the
5th relay.
Many aircraft that I have flown have a momentary trim disable switch on the
stick (or wheel). If you get a trim runaway, you press and hold the trim
disable switch which cuts power to the trim system. This function is
tested before the first flight of the day.
Kevin Horton
khorton(at)magmacom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | khorton(at)magmacom.com (Kevin Horton) |
Hi there,
I'm a new guy who has been lurking for a few weeks, but I was finally
prompted to come out of the closet to respond to a posting on electric
trim.
I am pretty keen to build an RV-8. The only glitch is that I promised my
wife I would finish the house renovations before I started any other big
project. I hope to be banging rivets in about 2 years.
I work as an engineering test pilot with Transport Canada in Ottawa. The
biggest part of my job is doing certification flight testing on new
Canadian designs. So far (I've only been with Transport Canada for 2.5
years), I've been doing lots of Diamond DA 20 Katana and Canadair
Challenger 604 testing.
I am really glad I found this list - there was a reference to it on
rec.aviation.homebuilt a few weeks ago. It was the only usefull message
I've seen there for months :-) Matt, congratulations for a bang up job, my
$10 will be in the mail soon.
Has anyone with a Macintosh found a good way to search the archive (other
than the web page, that is)? I would love to download it (or buy the CD),
but I am not sure how I would search it without buying a Windows machine.
Kevin Horton
khorton(at)magmacom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nut Plates & Taps |
>Even though I'm the one who opened my big mouth in the first place, I
>have to admit I don't even know exactly which one is really the right
>one for the screws we are using! I think I just got lucky, but mine is
>wearing out and I want to be sure to replace it with the right one(s).
>Does anyone know which of these screwdrivers is the "correct" one for
>our #8 flush heads supplied by Vans? How about the #6s that some people
>use for wingtips, etc? Also, "Quality" was mentioned. Who makes the
>good ones?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6
Randall, I believe that it is a # 2 Phillips bit. The #1 would be for the
smaller screws. Cleaveland tools has bits that have ribs on both sides of
the wings for $ .90. These ribs really grab hold. Snap On tools also sells
these bits. I have these bits in all of my screw drivers. They do wear out
eventually and I like to be able to just replace the bit instead of buying a
whole new screwdriver.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mumert" <sdm(at)softnc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
----------
> From: Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc: dralle(at)netcom.com
> Subject: RV-List: New Archive Utility & CDROM...
> Date: Wednesday, August 21, 1996 12:46 PM
>
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
>
> - All New Windows Archive Search Utility -
>
I like the idea, and am using Windows 95/NT 4.0.
Perhaps you could figure out a way to merge the CD file with a monthly or
quarterly
update available on the Web. It would still chew through a lot of disk
space when
merged but would sure be better than downloading the whole file (also
easier to
recover when we clobber a disk).
I ordered my tail kit this week, will pick it up at Van's homecoming. I am
taking my
Ground Bound RV down the Oregon coast for holidays. Will the tail kit fit
into a
Class C motor home? I thought I would store it on the bed above the cab,
sure wouldn't
want it outside on the roof. I thought carrying the kit with me for two
whole weeks would
make this seem like the longest holiday I've ever had.
I intend to stop a Boeing surplus on the way back. I heard that the
selection of goodies
has decreased since Boeing got busy with it's new orders. Has anyone been
there lately?
Looking forward to seeing lots of RVs at the homecoming.
Dave Mumert
SDM(at)softnc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Birmingham Alabama |
I'm going to be in Birmingham Al September 3.4.5 on
business. I'd sure like to visit a project or see a
finished one. Please contact me direct
chet razer, 6A: doing odds and ends before starting rear
fuselage top skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gregory Dallas Roberts <groberts(at)telcomplus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: Quickbuild |
Dude, It's a $2000 deduction because the labor for a more finished version
has a value as well. And I would be willing to bet that you could arrange a
contract with the factory and crank out those emp kits for a number very
near there and eventually earn yourself a "Free" airplane. What a deal. Roberts
>
>Text item:
>
>GEE! THAT'S ONE HECK OF A DISCOUNT CONSIDERING THE PRICE OF THE EMP IS SEVERAL
>HUNDRED DOLLARS LESS THAN $2K. YOU THINK I COULD BUY A BUNCH OF EMPS AT
FACTORY
>PRICE THEN TURN THEM IN FOR $2K CREDIT EACH. I COULD GET AN RV FOR FREE.
KINDA
>LIKE A HARRIER WHEN YOU DRINK ENOUGH PEPSI. I ALWAYS LIKED COKE BETTER ANYWAY.
>
>
>
>>I have the empenage and wing kit which I have been working on for
>>a bit of time. Does anyone know If I would be able to buy the
>>Van's quickbuild kit for the fuselage and the rest ?
>>
>>
>
>Absolutely--I think Vans discounts $2K if you already bought the emp.
>
>Jon Scholl
>bcg007(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cesoo(at)primenet.com (Jim Holton) |
| Subject: | High Oil temp problems |
We've got an RV-6 with a 0-320 160hp fuel injection lycoming and have been
experiencing problems with the oil temp rising to unexceptably high level
right from the start. This is the second engine for this plane and was
majored. The first engine's oil temp ran high, but still in the safe range.
The oil cooler is mounted on the left side of the engine in the back baffle
plate. The oil thermostat has been checked and appears to working properly.
Any ideas for us to work on?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | david_mcdonald(at)csri.com |
Sorry,
But, I have been unable to find any information on Aircraft Spruce. Do
you have
any more information on how to connect to these people?
I'm really interested in a turboprop engine and frankly I wouldn't
give a shit
if it was military surplus, if it was new and cost only $5,500.00.
I'll keep
trying to find these people on my own, but it would sure help if you
had a phone
number or e-mail address.
Regards,
David McDonald /
Senior Information Technology Consultant
CyberStructure Research Inc.
(504)391-2666
david_mcdonald(at)csri.com
Aircraft Spruce is in Fullerton, Ca and has one on display in their
store.
You can get an info file on it by return email by sending an email
message to turbines(at)pdsig.com
no message or subject need be in your message- or send me your fax
number and I'll fax you an info sheet!
bill
Telephone Payment Clearings, Inc
Phone: 619 749 7049
Fax: 619 749 6384
BBS: 619 749 2741
Info-file: telpay(at)pdsig.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ftpserver(at)pdsig.com |
>Received: by pdsig.com
We have received your electronic mail request for a file from our system. We
are responding with the requested file as an attachment to this message.sysop
pdsig.com
*Directory of free info by auto-response E-mail*
Quietly, non-intrusively, you can get information about any of
these things listed by simply sending e-mail to these addresses
on our FTP server. No information is required in the subject line
or the body of the message. The text file associated with that
address will simply be returned to you by email for your review.
You can act on the info or file it away in an e-mail folder
marked: "INFO" and you'll always have it!
The categories we have now are as follows:
AVIATION
Aircraft For Sale
1953 Cessna 170B project/with 950 SMOH, 3300TT, A "like new"
refurbishment 75% done, but needs some metal work to finish.
Wings, tail, controls done in Poly paint. Send e-mail to
cessnab(at)pdsig.com for full info. $17,500
Cessna 172 N, Skyhawk II (1977 Model W/160hp engine) New
glass, license, near new interior, full IFR, repaint 1995, "0" on
A&P OH, $36,500 Send your email inquiry to cessnan(at)pdsig.com for
the full info file.
Lockheed T-33 Jet Trainer with J33 engine, disassembled for
hauling. Most everything with it including 2000 # of spares! Fly
this with minimum effort! Located Long Beach, CA. For the info
file send your email message to T33(at)pdsig.com $25K
Helicopter Salvage For Sale. A FH1100 and a Hiller Soloy
12E, both badly damaged, missing engines and other parts, but
still a bargain at $9500 for both! Send email to heli(at)pdsig.com
for more info.
2 Cessna 185 Projects! One on floats, damaged but didn't go
in the water! The other is a repair project. Send email to
185(at)pdsig.com
Embraer 110P1, fuselage only, stuff still in it, $20K, Send
email to emb(at)pdsig.com for info.
Douglas DC-8 Front fuselage section including Airstair door!
$25k Send email to dc8(at)pdsig.com for more details! (Would make a
fantastic simulator!).
(List your plane here! Send $5, cash, check or M.O. and a
ascii text file on a disk describing it to Aircraft, 1531
Avohill, Vista, Ca, 92084)
AVIONICS
Radios for sale: a listing of old, obsolete and some newer
units at rock bottom prices! King, Narco and others for the
homebuilder and spam-can flyer! (War Birds, too). Send email for
the list with prices! av(at)pdsig.com
Misc Other
Instruments for Sale: A listing of old and new suitable for
all aircraft, J3's to Jets! including some antique stuff! Email
to an(at)pdsig.com
Tools for Sale: Lots of air tools and hard to find things
like clecos, pliers, finders and back riveters! Includes "Stupid
Metal Man Tricks" a valuable hint and kinks file for aircraft
metal workers. Send email to tools(at)pdsig.com
Turbo-prop Engines (Brand New Govmt surplus) suitable for
homebuilt planes or helicopters at give-away prices! $5500 Each)
do-it-yourself and save! Email to turbines(at)pdsig.com
Manuals:
Thousands Available on every conceivable piece of equipment:
Find out where: send email to manuals(at)pdsig.com
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A short listing of new and used parts available at fire
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for a list!
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and office! 8 Pages: Full text file available at
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Ground Power units, wire marking machines, Heavey shop
equipment listing available at avmisc(at)pdsig.com
Scumbucket alert:
Get a list of "Warnings, Beware! Etc, collected from many
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Now forming: Computer Related! Do the very best comparison
shopping for computer equipment! Find the best free email BBS's
and the almost-for-free in your local area. (For friends and
relatives who dont need net access, just email). Help us! Send
info to bjnash(at)pdsig.com Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill garrett <bgarrett(at)fast.net> |
| Subject: | More info on riveting spreader angles to ribs in -6 |
wing
Stephen-
You wrote-
>1. There are "spreader angles", which are NOT attached to ribs and
> there are "rib reinforcing angles", which ARE attached to ribs.
> I believe, after much studying of the plans, I know where each
> of these goes and how it is attached to the spar.
I agree. I was originally "lumping" the spreader angles and rib reinforcing
angles together because I cut them all the same size (which I now realize
was an error but I still believe will not be a problem). There are also
"spreader bars" which were predrilled and came with the spar and fit between
the spar strips in the root section of the wing.
>2. I hadn't considered the fact that the pop rivets attaching the
> rib flange to the spar might interfere with the "reinforcing angles".
> I will look out for this. I am contemplating a slightly different
> procedure for attaching ribs and angles at the tip end, which I
> believe should eliminate this problem. What do you think of it?
> It goes as follows:
> - Use regular rivets to attach rib flanges (main and leading edge)
> to spar.
> - Attach the angle to the spar (inside rib flange).
> - Rivet (again, with regular rivets) the angle to the rib.
I can't say this won't work, but I'm not sure when you are planning to
attach the leading edge skin to the leading edge ribs. If you attach the
skin in the suggested "cradle" (relatively easy), then I think this
procedure would be very difficult, if not impossible, to do carefully. If
you do the above first, then I think attaching the skin with the ribs on the
wing would be very difficult, if not impossible, to do carefully. I
wouldn't try it because I don't see any real problem with the plans
directions and don't see any great gain for the risk involved. Just my
opinion.
>3. I think part of the reason I am stuck with what lengths each of the
> angles should be, is because I am reading Van's instructions/plans
> and also Frank Justice's instructions.
>
> According to the plans, the tiedown spreader angle is 7" long.
> I ASSUME the rest of the spreader angles are also 7" long, but I
> can't really verify that from the plans! Also, the plans show the
> reinforcing angle at STA 63.5 to be 7 5/8" long. I ASSUME that the
> rest of the reinforcing angles are also 7 5/8" long!
> I HATE ASSUMING things... it makes me nervous, ya know?
> Has anybody been able to verify the lengths of all the angles from
> the plans?
As I read the plans, the above figures are correct as opposed to what I
stated in my previous post.
> The final curve ball to me was Frank Justice's instructions. It
> looks like he uses a 7 1/2" angle on what he calls the "first leading
> edge rib". What's that? The one nearest the tank? And why is this
> one 1/8" shorter than all the other reinforcing angles?
You are right that it is the rib nearest the tank and I would guess it is
smaller because that particular rib is a bit undersize to allow for the tank
mounting strip that goes between that rib and the leading edge skin.
>4. Finally, it sounds like ALL reinforcing angles get riveted to their
> neighboring ribs. That's what I would have expected. The only reason
> I'm getting thrown on this, is because my plans show that the tip
> ribs (where the reinforcing angles are "inside" the rib flanges) do
> NOT get riveted to the rib face. Please see the top of DWG 20, second
> picture in from the left. It details the reinforcing angles for
> the leading edge ribs at stations 83.5, 93.5, and 103.5.
> Am I reading the plans wrong? Or is this a mistake?
According to my plans and the way I built my wings (still working on them),
all of the leading edge ribs except the tip rib and the one next to it get
rib reinforcing angles. The reason these two most outboard ribs don't get
reinforcing angles is that they mount flush with the spar channel for their
entire "base flange". You don't need to cut away part of these ribs to fit
them between the raised spar strips and therefore don't need to reinforce
what you didn't remove.
Hope this helps and is said correctly. Thanks Pat K. for your constructive
remarks! It is for this very reason that when we voted some time ago as to
whether to make all responses to the list or to the original questioner, I
voted to have everything go to the list. Otherwise builders could get wrong
or misleading information without any checks and balances from others on the
list.
Happy and productive building,
Bill
Bill Garrett Barb Garrett
RV-6A airplane builder Quilter and Quilt Historian
bgarrett(at)fast.net Pottstown, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JZWYERS <Jzwyers(at)cris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
Matt,
You are doing a great job, thank you!!! I am running win95 at work and
3.1 at home. I feel I should keep up with technology (or a mile or two
behind when the prices get better) as you appearently are doing. Press on
with your plans.
Mac users, as the popularity of win95 continues, utilities for your
machines with have to get better.
Jason
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobh(at)synopsys.com (Bob Haan) |
| Subject: | New RV6 PP Fuse Firewall |
The RV6 Fuselage firewall bulkhead is now pre-punched and pre-assembled
with clecoes by Van's. However, the manual has not been updated.
Can someone who has "been there done that" outline the steps used to finish
this new pre-punched and pre-assy firewall bulkhead.
Looks like it is:-
1. Drill and clecoe all the holes pre-punched in the stainless steel firewall.
2. Make out of .063 sheet, then clamp, drill and clecoe the small .063
parts that connect the crossing AL angles.
3. Clamp drill and clecoe the brake bracket.
4. Clamp drill and clecoe the stainless box for the prop gov.
5. Label and disassemble, deburr, prime, reassemble and rivet.
Bob Haan
Portland, OR
RV6-A starting fuse
bobh(at)synopsys.com
Evenings 503-636-3550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
| Subject: | Van's Homecoming |
If I'm not mistaken, this is just over a week away. Having never been
before, what is the schedule? Friday/Saturday? Friday night- Sunday?
I need to book travel by Friday.
Looking forward to meeting some of you guys... and seeing North Plaines!
Thanks,
EB #80131 (picking up the tailkit tonight - YEA!)
barnes_eric(at)tandem.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | elon ormsby <ormsby1(at)popsicle.llnl.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Nut Plates & Taps |
Randall you wrote:
...There are two different styles of so-called "phillips-head"
screwdrivers, and if you aren't using one that fits the screw properly, or
are using a worn-out one, it makes quite a bit of difference....
-----------------------
Years ago there was a screw driver type called a Reed & Prince. It looked
like the modern(?)Phillips except the included angle was sharper (more
pointed). It hasn't been in existence for 30 years and the screws are not
available.
Phillips screw drivers are made in 5 sizes. They are number
0(smallest),1,2,3,4.
These fastener problems would be non-existent if Torx drive was substituted
for all screws. However, I don't know if they are qualified as aviation grade.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | boatright thomas reginald <trboatri(at)ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall sealing |
How many of you are sealing your firewalls against carbon-
monoxide. Is there a prefered sealant (ie pro-seal etc..)?
Thanks,
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More info on riveting spreader angles to ribs in -6wing |
Bill Garret wrote:
> Stephen-
> You wrote-
> > The final curve ball to me was Frank Justice's instructions. It
> > looks like he uses a 7 1/2" angle on what he calls the "first leading
> > edge rib". What's that? The one nearest the tank? And why is this
> > one 1/8" shorter than all the other reinforcing angles?
>
> You are right that it is the rib nearest the tank and I would guess it is
> smaller because that particular rib is a bit undersize to allow for the
tank
> mounting strip that goes between that rib and the leading edge skin.
Well summed up, Bill. We need better terminology for some of these
discussions; spreader bars vs. spreader angles is still confusing. I agree
that uniform 7" angles should not cause you a problem; you just added an
extra lightening option to your kit! :) As long as they are still firmly
bolted to the spar, you're Ok. As for the comment above, I agree. The
combination of slightly smaller rib to accomodate the tank attach strip and
needing to fit the angle inside the rib flanges would make the difference.
I trimmed my angles to leave 1/8" clearance, either from the flanges or,
for angles on the other side of the rib, the expected skin location. For
the angles inside the rib, this provided clearance for the rib flange bend
radius and allowed the angles to lay flat. For the angles outside the rib
flanges, I just felt like giving my skins a little room.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heeelp! propellers....... |
<< **** SNIP ***
Also wanted to know are there any builders out here in Connecticut?
Regards,
Matt Fairy >>
Matt:
There are quite a few finished RV's in Ct, as well as a few in progress.
Danbury and Meridan are two hot spots. I'm based at 7B6 (Skylark). Email me
direct if you have any other questions......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
On Wed, 21 Aug 1996, Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001 wrote:
> I am also planning to release an RV-List/Zenith-List Archive CDROM disk soon
...
> Proceeds from the CDROM sales will go to directly support the continued
> operation of the RV and Zenith email lists. I am thinking about charging
> $39 + shipping for a single CD, and also offering a years 'subscription' for
> $99 + shipping (3 CDs - 1 every four months). Of course Visa and M/C would
> be accepted as well as personal checks.
...
> Any and all input is welcome!
> Thanks,
> Matt Dralle
> RV/Zenith-List Admin
Matt,
First, thanks for maintaining this list. My $10 went in the mail a few
days ago.
Right now I'm not too interested in the CD ROM option, as I have a largish
hard drive and can easily spare 18M for the archive. I also like the
access speed of hard drives. It would be convenient if the archive were
downloadable in "chunks" so that it would no longer be necessary to
download the entire archive to get the latest postings.
One concern I have: If you proceed with the CD ROM idea would you still
keep the archives available on your ftp site? I'd hate to see the
ftp-able archives go away. I'd happily pay $10/year or more for access to
the info.
Capt Tim Lewis
Building "jigs" to hold the quickbuild wings for finishing
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | AN426AD3-6 rivets needed for RV-6Q |
For you RV-6 quickbuilders, here's another minor thing to look out for...
You'll need an AN426AD3-6 rivet for the front of the arm rest.
Unfortunately, none are included in the kit. I wrote Van's about this,
and they concur. Tom at Van's said:
> I am sendng .2# of them as I think you will need them along the sides when
> you install the top back skin as well....
> teething problems with the Qbuild... sorry... our two builders who put
> these together didn't tell us everything they uised so we haven't got it
> all in there yet!
Capt Tim Lewis
Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scholl Jon" <scholl.jon(at)smtpgw.bcg.com> |
| Subject: | New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
Matt--absolutely--sign me up
Jon Scholl
scholl.jon(at)bcg.com
______________________________________________________________________________
All New Windows Archive Search Utility -
Would people be interested in this? I will have to sell about 30 CDs to
break even on the hardware/setup costs. Having a permanent copy of the
Archives that don't have to be stored on your local harddrive seems like a
'must-have' for just about any builder! I bet they'd make great gifts... :-)
Any and all input is welcome!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
>I ordered my tail kit this week, will pick it up at Van's homecoming. I am
>taking my Ground Bound RV down the Oregon coast for holidays. Will the
tail kit fit
>into a Class C motor home? I thought I would store it on the bed above the
cab,
>sure wouldn't want it outside on the roof. I thought carrying the kit with
me for two
>whole weeks would make this seem like the longest holiday I've ever had.
>Dave Mumert
Dave, The RV-6 tail kit comes in a box 4' 5 1/2" x 33" x 5 1/2". Bob
Skinner RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall sealing |
>
> How many of you are sealing your firewalls against carbon-
>monoxide. Is there a prefered sealant (ie pro-seal etc..)?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
I plan on using proseal. This is what Tom at Vans suggested.
Ross Mickey
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil temp problems |
>We've got an RV-6 with a 0-320 160hp fuel injection lycoming and have been
>experiencing problems with the oil temp rising to unexceptably high level
>right from the start. This is the second engine for this plane and was
>majored. The first engine's oil temp ran high, but still in the safe range.
>The oil cooler is mounted on the left side of the engine in the back baffle
>plate. The oil thermostat has been checked and appears to working properly.
>Any ideas for us to work on?
Jim, Generally RV-6's run on the cool side. I've never had any cooling
problems with my 150 hp but do have problems getting temps up in the winter.
Check the oil temp gauge and sender fo accuracy. Are your CHT's OK? How big
is your oil cooler and is it new or used? Is there a possiblity that the
oil cooler has a restriction? Have you looked inside your hoses to make
sure there were no "flaps" cut into the hoses when the fittings were
assembled thus restricing oil flow. Might want to try a different
vernatherm (sp?). How big is the hole in the baffle where the air flows in
to the cooler? Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heeelp! propellers....... |
<< Gents I have an RV4 whith a 180HP 0-360 I want to use an Ed Streba
prop.....any advise on what pitch and diameter I should use?
Also wanted to know are there any builders out here in Connecticut?
>>
I would start with the prop that the manufacturer recommends. He has sold
many and knows what works and what doesn't. Make sure you explain what your
expectations are ie. static rpm, climb, cruise. Do you fly "balls to the
wall" all the time or do you like to loaf around? What altitude do you like
to fly. Wood props are a black art and the better manufacturers make a
consistant product and can determine what you need by your verbal
description.
As far as being local to CT, I'm a short flight (by RV) from NJ if you ever
need help. Lots of RV-4's on my field as well.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1) Slid. canopy seal, 2) Tail wheel steering |
<< There has to be some slack in the chains. I would guess that I have
almost
>one inch of slack in my chains.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC
Gary, Why does ther have to be slack in the chains? I've tried mine with
both slack and straight (with very little if no stretch to the springs) I
guess I liked the more positive steering provided by taunt chains. What
would be the advantage of slack or is it just what you're accustomed to.
None of the other taildraggers that I've owned have had much if any slack, a
Maule, 90 hp Cub and a C-170. Bob Skinner BSkinner(at)ltec.net >>
I don't know why! When I was setting-up my RV I had the chains tight. The
local RV expert looked at this and told me that I needed one or two extra
links. Hay, what do I know, so I ordered a new chain and and added two links
to the length. I did taxi the aircraft with it tight and it did respond
well. I find that the tail wheel is sensitive at speeds higher than taxi
speed so I think that it might be too sensitive (for me) with the chains
tight. I guess it all comes down to what you are use to. IMHO the aircraft
seems to handle a little better with this set-up.
Maybe I'm wrong...please don't flame me too badly.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Miner" <dougm(at)qm.WV.TEK.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List- Van's Homecomin |
Reply to: RE>RV-List: Van's Homecoming
It's a little different this year...
the potluck dinner is on Saturday... starting at 5ish... airplanes will be arriving
all day I am sure.
There will be Shop tours, and flyout lunches on Saturday I think too...
Sunday night at Pumpkin Ridge Golf Course is the Banquet...
the site of the Amature Golf turney just this week... man was there some amazing
golf out there... world class greens, fairways are excellent...
And Monday is a free for all... expect lunch flights, hangar flying, etc etc...
best to call Vans a @503-647-5117 and REGISTER!
D~
--------------------------------------
Date: 8/22/96 3:10 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.COM
If I'm not mistaken, this is just over a week away. Having never been
before, what is the schedule? Friday/Saturday? Friday night- Sunday?
I need to book travel by Friday.
Looking forward to meeting some of you guys... and seeing North Plaines!
Thanks,
EB #80131 (picking up the tailkit tonight - YEA!)
barnes_eric(at)tandem.com
------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------
From: Tandem.COM!BARNES_ERIC(at)matronics.COM
Date: 21 Aug 96 17:17:00 -0700
Subject: RV-List: Van's Homecoming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon_Ormsby <e671275(at)popsicle.llnl.gov> |
Bill:
>
>What is the status of the instrument panel pictures you took at Osh? I lost
>your private address, please contact me.
>Elon
>ormsby(at)popsicle.llnl.gov
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Stuff |
>I am starting the fuse kit. Did not plan to prime the stainless steel sheet
>but today Vans said that some builders are not priming the firewall's
>aluminum compnents (except the steel components) for reasons of fire
>reduction and ease of cleaning.
>
I primed all the components of my firewall during fuse construction. After
the piano hinges were on, I went back and painted all the exposed aluminum
of the engine compartment side with Imron. I can't see the firewall getting
so hot as to effect the Imron. BTW, I'm about to paint my engine baffles
with Imron . Does anybody know if Imron will not stand up to the heat of
being that close to the engine?
>
>
>How many of you are sealing your firewalls against carbon-
monoxide. Is there a preferred sealant (ie pro-seal etc..)?
I used pro-seal during the firewall construction. I guess it can't hurt.
Besides keeping out CO, it should also keep any dirt and fluids from
creeping into the cockpit.
-Scott N506RV
scottg(at)villagenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail wheel steering |
>I don't know why! When I was setting-up my RV I had the chains tight. The
>local RV expert looked at this and told me that I needed one or two extra
>links. Hay, what do I know, so I ordered a new chain and and added two links
>to the length. I did taxi the aircraft with it tight and it did respond
>well. I find that the tail wheel is sensitive at speeds higher than taxi
>speed so I think that it might be too sensitive (for me) with the chains
>tight. I guess it all comes down to what you are use to. IMHO the aircraft
>seems to handle a little better with this set-up.
>
>Maybe I'm wrong...please don't flame me too badly.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC
Gary, Flame you! Never. I was just curious. I think I'll try my six with
a little slack in the chains just to see what happens. A little slack might
translate into less stress on the rudder control horns. I'll let you know
how it turns out.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: New RV6 PP Fuse Firewall |
Bob:
You are taking the hard approach to assembling your new
prepunched firewall. The proper sequence is:
1) Take all the pieces and throw them up in the air. They
will come down all assembled.
:-)
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <Gene.A.Gottschalk.1(at)gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall sealing |
Pro Seal works, I used high temp silicon sealer from the auto parts store,
as per Geroge Orndorff's tape.
-Gene Gottschalk
geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov
>>
>> How many of you are sealing your firewalls against carbon-
>>monoxide. Is there a prefered sealant (ie pro-seal etc..)?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Tom
>>
>>
>
>I plan on using proseal. This is what Tom at Vans suggested.
>Ross Mickey
>rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall sealing |
<< How many of you are sealing your firewalls against carbon-
monoxide. Is there a prefered sealant (ie pro-seal etc..)? >>
Hi Tom. I'm sealing every nook and cranny that I can find. I've been using
hi-temp (red) silicone sealant.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
>--------------
>On Wed, 21 Aug 1996, Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001 wrote:
>> I am also planning to release an RV-List/Zenith-List Archive CDROM disk soon
>...
>> Proceeds from the CDROM sales will go to directly support the continued
>> operation of the RV and Zenith email lists. I am thinking about charging
>> $39 + shipping for a single CD, and also offering a years 'subscription' for
>> $99 + shipping (3 CDs - 1 every four months). Of course Visa and M/C would
>> be accepted as well as personal checks.
>...
>> Any and all input is welcome!
>> Thanks,
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV/Zenith-List Admin
>
>Matt,
>
>First, thanks for maintaining this list. My $10 went in the mail a few
>days ago.
>
>Right now I'm not too interested in the CD ROM option, as I have a largish
>hard drive and can easily spare 18M for the archive. I also like the
>access speed of hard drives. It would be convenient if the archive were
>downloadable in "chunks" so that it would no longer be necessary to
>download the entire archive to get the latest postings.
>
>One concern I have: If you proceed with the CD ROM idea would you still
>keep the archives available on your ftp site? I'd hate to see the
>ftp-able archives go away. I'd happily pay $10/year or more for access to
>the info.
>
>Capt Tim Lewis
>Building "jigs" to hold the quickbuild wings for finishing
>RV-6AQ #60023
>--------------
Yes, the archives will continue to be updated daily on the Web and FTP site.
The "digest" version of the archives (basically they just have all
the extra email header information removed and pagebreaks added between
messages) is available both as a complete archive (~18Mb) and in 200Kb
"Volumes". Each Volume filename has a unique two letter combination appended
to the end, indicating the proper order. A new Volume is created automatically
each time the current one exceeds 200Kb. I think this is basically what
your looking for, aye?
Thanks for the donation! The response has been wonderful. About half way
to offsetting the cost of the upgrade!
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil temp problems |
rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes:
We've got an RV-6 with a 0-320 160hp fuel injection lycoming and have
been
experiencing problems with the oil temp rising to unexceptably high
level
right from the start. This is the second engine for this plane and was
majored. The first engine's oil temp ran high, but still in the safe
range.
The oil cooler is mounted on the left side of the engine in the back
baffle
plate. The oil thermostat has been checked and appears to working
properly.
Any ideas for us to work on?
If electric, is the probe and the gauge matched?
You can easily check by dipping the probe in boiling water.
Ken
RV-6A 12 hours!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WATSON1(at)applelink.apple.com (Watson, William H.) |
Here is what I am doing on my Mac to search my local copy of the RV archive: I
have a copy of "On Location" (an old commercial application) which provides a
simple boolean search of an inverted index (of the archive) - quite fast. I
opened the text archive in MS WORD and saved it as a WORD doc. WORD has a
simple string match which is also quite useful to "run down a thread" in the
archive.
Bill Watson
watson1(at)applelink.apple.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Has anyone with a Macintosh found a good way to search the archive (other
than the web page, that is)? I would love to download it (or buy the CD),
but I am not sure how I would search it without buying a Windows machine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil temp problems |
>>We've got an RV-6 with a 0-320 160hp fuel injection lycoming and have been
>>experiencing problems with the oil temp rising to unexceptably high level
>>right from the start. This is the second engine for this plane and was
>>majored. The first engine's oil temp ran high, but still in the safe range.
>>The oil cooler is mounted on the left side of the engine in the back baffle
>>plate. The oil thermostat has been checked and appears to working properly.
>>Any ideas for us to work on?
>
>Jim, Generally RV-6's run on the cool side. Bob Skinner RV-6
BSkinner(at)ltec.net
>
Jim:
I Second Bob's comments. My 180 runs cool in my 4 even in the summer without
some restriction in the intake to the cooler. Check the guage/sending unit
and the lines. You do have them hooked the correct ports on the engine...right?
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List- Van's Homecomin |
What are the dates for the Homecoming?
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Chassis Technical Specialist
Ford Motor Company
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings |
Just got the final kit from Van's! No more interminable shipping delays for
this country boy - now the only holdup is me. A question presents itself
after studying the manual and looking at the new pile of parts: Is it
"better" to make the gear leg fairings from the aluminum provided or from
wood and fiberglass as explained in the plans? There's gotta be a downside
and upside either way... I'd love to hear the feedback.
The way I figure it, one should not put the plane on its gear until the
fairings are made, but must do so temporarily to align them exactly with the
centerline/slipstream. This raises all sorts of questions in my mind about
how to support the plane as the engine mount goes on and what sequence to
follow for the finish kit now that the panel is about done. Up til now I've
relied on the Orndorf tapes, but I'm not sure how well the slider canopy on
George & Becki's plane will help me with the tip-up, so haven't made the
investment in the latest video.
I think "executive paralysis" has set in and I need a pep talk. I'm getting
tired of this thing after 26 months and yet I'm so close to having something
that LOOKS like an aeroplane. Actually, my gut tells me I'm close, while my
head tells me I have a LONG way to go yet. (I hate it when they argue.)
Anybody else been there, done that, got the N-number?
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Quickbuild? |
>Can anyone tell me what the quickbuild is all about? I can't seem to
>find any information about it. Also, is a quickbuild kit available for
>the RV-6A?
>
>
Sure...its an RV-6 (or RV-6A) kit where the tail, wing, and fuse kits are
about 90% completed. Any other questions please e-mail direct, don't want
to clutter the list with chatter.
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN426AD3-6 rivets needed for RV-6Q |
>For you RV-6 quickbuilders, here's another minor thing to look out for...
>
Keep 'em coming Tim, I'm getting my next shortage list together for Van's !
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
AH! According to the FAA it's actually 49% completed... Don't give away the secret!
----------
From: r.acker[SMTP:ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 1996 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Quickbuild?
>Can anyone tell me what the quickbuild is all about? I can't seem to
>find any information about it. Also, is a quickbuild kit available for
>the RV-6A?
>
>
Sure...its an RV-6 (or RV-6A) kit where the tail, wing, and fuse kits are
about 90% completed. Any other questions please e-mail direct, don't want
to clutter the list with chatter.
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Miner" <dougm(at)qm.WV.TEK.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List- Re- RV-List- V |
Reply to: RE>>RV-List: Re: RV-List- Van's Homecomin
Aug 31, Sept 1, Sept 2
D~
--------------------------------------
Date: 8/22/96 2:30 PM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.COM
What are the dates for the Homecoming?
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Chassis Technical Specialist
Ford Motor Company
------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------
From: "Jeff Davis" <ford.com!jdavis1(at)matronics.COM>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 14:50:12 -0400
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List- Van's Homecomin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Rebgetz <Ross.Rebgetz(at)tvl.tcp.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Re: More info on riveting spreader angles to ribs in |
-6 wing
At 01:05 AM 22-08-96 DST, bill garrett wrote:
>Stephen-
>You wrote-
Also, the plans show the
>> reinforcing angle at STA 63.5 to be 7 5/8" long. I ASSUME that the
>> rest of the reinforcing angles are also 7 5/8" long!
>> I HATE ASSUMING things... it makes me nervous, ya know?
>> Has anybody been able to verify the lengths of all the angles from
>> the plans?
>
>As I read the plans, the above figures are correct as opposed to what I
>stated in my previous post.
>
>> The final curve ball to me was Frank Justice's instructions. It
>> looks like he uses a 7 1/2" angle on what he calls the "first leading
>> edge rib". What's that? The one nearest the tank? And why is this
>> one 1/8" shorter than all the other reinforcing angles?
and in addition the BAC wing kit has ALL the rib reinforcing angles the same
length at 7 5/8"
Regards
Ross
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Phone: +61 077 538570 W
+61 077 753192 H
Fax : +61 077 538600 W
Email: Ross.Rebgetz(at)tvl.tcp.csiro.au
Mail : CSIRO
Davies Laboratory
Private Mail Bag
Aitkenvale Qld 4814
Australia
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil temp problems |
>We've got an RV-6 with a 0-320 160hp fuel injection lycoming and have been
>experiencing problems with the oil temp rising to unexceptably high level
>right from the start. This is the second engine for this plane and was
>majored. The first engine's oil temp ran high, but still in the safe range.
>The oil cooler is mounted on the left side of the engine in the back baffle
>plate. The oil thermostat has been checked and appears to working properly.
>Any ideas for us to work on?
>
>
>
My first thought is that the oil temp sender or gauge may be defective. My
oil cooler is in the same location and I have trouble getting into the
normal range much less ever into unsafe levels; and that is with 2/3 of the
cooler blocked off.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings |
>Just got the final kit from Van's! No more interminable shipping delays for
>this country boy - now the only holdup is me. A question presents itself
>after studying the manual and looking at the new pile of parts: Is it
>"better" to make the gear leg fairings from the aluminum provided or from
>wood and fiberglass as explained in the plans? There's gotta be a downside
>and upside either way... I'd love to hear the feedback.
>
>
>Anybody else been there, done that, got the N-number?
>
>Bill Boyd
>
>
OK, here's the setup---- You want gearlegs that look good and don't shimmy,
right?? The wood and glass on the gearlegs stop most of the shimmy (I've
been told). However, the metal gearlegs don't look all that good when the
paint is worn off after a few hours of landings and taxiing.
What you could do is use the metal gearleg fairings that Van sends you to
make fiberglass fairings. I bought Jerry Harrold's fairings and they are
great. Only problem is that you would have had to order them when you
ordered the wing kit if you needed them now.
What Jerry does (I think) to make his fiberglass fairings is to lay two or
three layers of glass inside the metal fairings (be sure to apply mold
release). You'll have to close the rear of the fairings to get the right
shape. After they set up pop the aluminum off of the fiberglass and cut the
trailing edge open.
When you put the glass fairings on your gearlegs you'll need to use resin
impregnated fiberglass mat (not cloth or mesh) between the two trailing
edges and hold them together with a 'vee' shaped piece of metal, again you
have to use mold release on the metal. Fill the gearleg with foam, paint it
and go flying.
I didn't use the wood on my gearlegs but I wish I had. My gearlegs shimmy
pretty good at a brisk taxi.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
I'm sure I'm overlooking something simple, but I'm taking the time to build
the bellcranks for the wing kit, and I can't find any .063 stock for the
1/2" x 1 5/8" spacers required. I've checked the inventory and the bag
contents, and I just don't have it. Am I supposed to hack up some of the
.063" angle? Or did I just not see what is/should be right in front of my
nose? Thanks for any help.
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List- Van's Homecomin |
> What are the dates for the Homecoming?
Aug 31 (arrival, evening potluck) and Sept 1 (fly-outs,
evening banquet). Contact Vans @ 503-647-5117 for more
info, especially if you want to attend the banquet
as there are a limited number of tickets.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine/Prop Controls (3) |
Isn't there some sort of quadrant handle that has a vernier lever at the top?
Basically a short lever at each end of the quadrant handle, linked to make
fine adjustments? For gross adjustments, you just shove the whole thing, and
for fine control, you twist the top.
--
(Sorry Randall, no more room for the Yakko Warner quote)
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought, saving for tools and tail kit (Christmas?).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List- Re- RV-List- V |
Doug:
FYI, all your messages to the RV-list are coming through
as attachments.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
>
>
>I would buy the $99 subscription.
>
>Warren Branscomb
You rich guys crack me up sometimes!
I am sending the $5.
Mike Weller
Huntsville, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
>I wonder if it wouldn't be appropriate for some of us to each send Matt
>$5 to help pay for these additions. I, for one, really appreciate Matt's
>managing of the list, and it's only fair that those of us who are taking
>advantage of the list help Matt to cover his costs.
>
>If 100 of us each sent Matt $5, that's only 20% of the subscribers, and it
>should cover the costs of the upgrade.
>
>Mine's in the mail today.
>
>Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
>>Matt,
>>
>>First, thanks for maintaining this list. My $10 went in the mail a few
>>days ago.
>>
And the last reply, which I didn't save, was for a $99 CD issued anually.
This is in the period of less than a week. I've sent my $5. Now I feel
guilty because I haven't sent $10. Man, this is like going to church. No,
worse than that, it is like being sucked into a cult where peer pressure
drives everybody into a frenzy.
Sorry, but I detect an exponential trend here that will cause no good.
One more thing, lest my stingyness seem misplaced. My real job is lead
engineer for the data collection and archive facility that will capture all
of the data that the International Space Station will send to earth. It
holds 37 tera-bytes of data, ready for any of you all to use (with
permission of NASA, which is easy to get). Put into perspective, that's a
stack of floppy disks, stacked 60 miles high.
So, now it's out of the bag. The real reason that I enjoy this goup so much
is not anything about RV's and my life long love of airplanes.
I'm just trying to figure out how to rivet those floppies together.
Mike Weller
Huntsville, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Tail wheel Springs |
I have a full swiveling locking tail wheel without chains, springs, or
external rudder horns.
Less Drag Or is that a redundant statement :-)
I don't like changing what Van has designed.
I used the existing tail wheel spring and tail wheel fork assembly design. I
just substituted a round steel disk for the tail wheel horn, added a hole for
a pin lock, and bolted a locking pin assembly to the tail spring over the top
of the tail wheel fork disk. I added a 1/16" sst cable running to the
cockpit to a lock/unlock lever.
Of course, running the rudder cables inside the fuselage all the way to the
internal rudder horn is another story.
I place the tail wheel lever in the lock position on the turn to take-off
position, and kick the rudder both ways as I line up for take-off to verify
the tail wheel is locked.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A powered RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | propellers & altitude???? |
>There are many prop designs available for the little piston planes and each
>have their own merits depending on the mission that you are trying to
>accomplish. Each of these fixed props have good and bad output depending on
>the conditions that you impose on them and the aircraft. Only one design
>will accomodate most of these flight conditions and that is the properly
>used constant speed prop.
A variable pitch propellor will accomplish the same result as the constant
speed prop.
I have been flying an electric variable pitch prop on my RV-3 since Dec.
1995. Take-off and climb performance is significantly greater with this
prop, compared to the Warnke fixed pitch wood prop I also use occasionally.
Mechanically speaking, the variable pitch prop is a direct bolt-on
replacement for the fixed pitch prop. It weighs about the same as the fixed
pitch wood prop that would normally be use.
If you would like to know more about this prop, please e-mail me direct.
If there is enough interest, I'll respond to the rv-list.
BTW, with proper take-off technique and flap setting, how much shorter a
take-off roll would I get from what I get now? I nornally use about 120 feet
:-) (The wheels get light as I roll over the runway numbers, maybe with
proper technique I could take-off on the numbers.)
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A powered RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Zenner <mvz(at)cats.ucsc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RVs on floats... |
>Eustace Bowhay is continuing work on the RV-6F float project.
>Last I heard was about a month ago, he was taxi testing the
>RV-6AF (Amphibious float version) and was expecting to flight
>test soon.
>
>Give him a call. He did express enthusiasm for the RV-8F idea
>when I talked to him last. I think what he needs is someone
>with an RV-8 to put em on!
Thanks for the info, I'll give him a call!
-Michael
Michael Zenner CP-AMSEL-IA
mvz(at)cats.ucsc.edu "Here a fool found salvation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
The other day, I tried to tighten the "O" ring on one of my old style gas
caps as it was leaking a little in flight. I'll be darned if I could get
the nut to budge and ended up shearing the roll pin. What is the secret to
getting that nut to move? Fortunately, I was able to "borrow" the new style
fuel caps off of my new wing kit. Same question. If these new style caps
start to leak, how can I tighten the "O" ring without screwing things up?
Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
How's this for a sig---got it off r.a.h.
When I go, I want to go quietly, in my sleep, like my grandfather ---- not
screaming, like his passengers. author unkown
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | STTA: Balanced Wheel Pants |
Just thought I would provide Sonething To Think About (STTA).
How many of you have balanced your wheel pants??
One of Van's newsletters refers to this as a method of removing the gear leg
shimmy, and allows the satisfactory use of the simple sheet aluminum gear
leg fairing.
After I balanced my wheel pants, and I could properly inflate the tires
without getting the taxi shimmy.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
>The other day, I tried to tighten the "O" ring on one of my old style gas
>caps as it was leaking a little in flight. I'll be darned if I could get
>the nut to budge and ended up shearing the roll pin. What is the secret to
>getting that nut to move? Fortunately, I was able to "borrow" the new style
>fuel caps off of my new wing kit. Same question. If these new style caps
>start to leak, how can I tighten the "O" ring without screwing things up?
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
>
>How's this for a sig---got it off r.a.h.
>
>When I go, I want to go quietly, in my sleep, like my grandfather ---- not
>screaming, like his passengers. author unkown
>
I had a problem with the old style gas caps. A friend of mine flying my RV
had called me on the phone to tell me that the gas cap on one of the tanks
had come apart. The roll pin had sheared.
To make a long story shorter, I ended up replacing the roll pin with a short
section of hinge pin. I had to drill out the hole in the shaft but it
appeared that there was still enough metal left around the hole.
The reason the roll pin had broken was probably because the O-ring had
swollen somewhat due to using autogas and it was difficult to 'close' the
cap. I now am careful to slosh the cap with gas (to lubricate it) before
closing it.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
>--------------
>>>>I will be adding an additional 16Mb of memory to the SUN system that runs
>>>>the RV and Zenith List and crunchs that *HUGE* archive file every night,
>>>>formatting it in the various forms that are available via the Web and FTP.
>>>>I will soon be adding a new high performance 2Gb hard drive since with all
>>>>the archive growth, the disk space has been getting a little tight.
>>>>
>>>> Matt Dralle
>>>> RV-List Admin.
>>>> Matronics
>>>
>>>I wonder if it wouldn't be appropriate for some of us to each send Matt
>>>$5 to help pay for these additions. I, for one, really appreciate Matt's
>>>managing of the list, and it's only fair that those of us who are taking
>>>advantage of the list help Matt to cover his costs.
>>>
>>>If 100 of us each sent Matt $5, that's only 20% of the subscribers, and it
>>>should cover the costs of the upgrade.
>>>
>>>Mine's in the mail today.
>>>
>>>Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
>>
>>Well, I would like to thank everyone that has so graciously offered to
>>help in the upgrade of the RV-List Server. I will gladly accept
>>contributions for the continued support of the RV-List. Operation of
>>the List costs on the order of $1200 a year in Internet access and other
>>fees. The hardware upgrade is costing about $600.
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>>
>>>>Matt,
>>>>
>>>>First, thanks for maintaining this list. My $10 went in the mail a few
>>>>days ago.
>>>>
>>
>
>
>And the last reply, which I didn't save, was for a $99 CD issued anually.
>
>This is in the period of less than a week. I've sent my $5. Now I feel
>guilty because I haven't sent $10. Man, this is like going to church. No,
>worse than that, it is like being sucked into a cult where peer pressure
>drives everybody into a frenzy.
>
>
>
>Mike Weller
>Huntsville, AL
>--------------
Mike and everyone,
Thank you for your contributions! The amount of support I have been
receiving has been truly wonderful!
As far as the CD, the actual numbers listed were $39 for a single CD and
$99 for 3 CDs over a year period (1 every 4 months). These numbers were
just a starting point, however, and I am open to suggestions. I have been
receiving some good feedback from a number of List members regarding the
amount and frequency of the CDs. As for the pricing, here's how I came up
with the numbers:
Hardward to produce the CDRoms: $ 950.00
Blank CDRoms: $ 7.50 Each
If I set the price of the Archive CDRom at $39:
Archive CDRom: $39.00
Blank CDRom: -$7.50
-------------------
Net "profit": $31.50
Now, if I take the cost of the Hardware investment and divide it by the
net "profit":
Hardware Cost: $ 950.00
Net "profit": divided by: 31.50
-------------------
30 CDs
So, in total, everyone will have to buy 30 Archive CDRoms, before I will
even break even on the deal. On the 31st CD there will finally be a
real profit that will, actually, be turned around and spent to support
the hardware and connectivity for the RV and Zenith Lists.
So that's my reasoning. Does everybody think that $39 is too high (low?)?
I don't want to price it such that most people just won't buy it, but on the
otherhand, if I price it too low, it will be years before I will ever break
even on costs. The idea is to ultimately offset some of the cost of the List
operation, AND provide people with a handy resource as well.
I certainly don't want anyone to feel obligated to purchase the CD or to
send a contribution of any particular amount. I run the List because I love
RVs and because so many people receive so much good from it. Your
contributions either direct or through the purchase of the CD are ultimately
in the interest and betterment of the List. Everyone's generosity thus
far has been overwhelming, and it is very inspiring for me interms of the many
hours I spend making sure the Lists are running smoothly and the money I
spend on it.
Please, contribute whatever you can, and buy the CDs if would find them
useful. I thank you. Everyone on the List thanks you! You're a great
group!
Feedback please!
Matt Dralle
RV/Zenith List Admin.
Matronics
dralle(at)matronics.com
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan and Myrna Toupal" <DMToupal(at)msn.com> |
They also misspell board (bored) . . .
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 1996 10:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Spelling
Is it my magination or does everyone on this bored mispel GAJE and
UNSUSCIBE???????
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall sealing |
All of us (I hope). Proseal works fine.
>
> How many of you are sealing your firewalls against carbon-
>monoxide. Is there a prefered sealant (ie pro-seal etc..)?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Bob, and others:
That flat round piece of metal under the locknut is threaded, too. That makes
the nut a locknut, not an adjustment nut like the older style caps. Loosen
the nut, and tighten the bottom plate. I found the mandrel from an old LP4-3
rivet will work in place of a roll pin.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
Scholl Jon wrote:
>
> Matt--absolutely--sign me up
>
> Jon Scholl
> scholl.jon(at)bcg.com
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> All New Windows Archive Search Utility -
>
> Would people be interested in this? I will have to sell about 30 CDs to
> break even on the hardware/setup costs. Having a permanent copy of the
> Archives that don't have to be stored on your local harddrive seems like a
> 'must-have' for just about any builder! I bet they'd make great gifts... :-)
>
> Any and all input is welcome!
I AM INTERESTED,SIGN ME UPPPPPPP!!!!!]
JOHN MCMAHON
rv6(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lackerma(at)bigsean.rad.rpslmc.edu (lauren ackerman) |
| Subject: | Re: propellers & altitude???? |
Jim,
I think I used to have an electronic variable pitch prop on an old
Bonanza (E-35) which worked quite well. I certainly would like to hear more
about your experience and more details about the prop...manufact...price...reliability.
laurens
----- Begin Included Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aol.com!LesDrag(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | propellers & altitude???? |
>There are many prop designs available for the little piston planes and each
>have their own merits depending on the mission that you are trying to
>accomplish. Each of these fixed props have good and bad output depending on
>the conditions that you impose on them and the aircraft. Only one design
>will accomodate most of these flight conditions and that is the properly
>used constant speed prop.
A variable pitch propellor will accomplish the same result as the constant
speed prop.
I have been flying an electric variable pitch prop on my RV-3 since Dec.
1995. Take-off and climb performance is significantly greater with this
prop, compared to the Warnke fixed pitch wood prop I also use occasionally.
Mechanically speaking, the variable pitch prop is a direct bolt-on
replacement for the fixed pitch prop. It weighs about the same as the fixed
pitch wood prop that would normally be use.
If you would like to know more about this prop, please e-mail me direct.
If there is enough interest, I'll respond to the rv-list.
BTW, with proper take-off technique and flap setting, how much shorter a
take-off roll would I get from what I get now? I nornally use about 120 feet
:-) (The wheels get light as I roll over the runway numbers, maybe with
proper technique I could take-off on the numbers.)
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A powered RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
----- End Included Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allan W. Mojzisik" <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB90D5.E80B2960
Matt,
I may be missing something here but your calculations are indicating =
that you have to buy hardware for everyone on the list. The hardware is =
a fixed, (one time) cost. (I think) The CD blank is a variable cost. =
(Incurred with each sale.) So your sale of 30 individual CD's will =
nearly cover your fixed costs and then you are looking at profit. Lets' =
say you sell 200 CD's at $39 =3D That's $7800 less the cost of the CD's =
blanks 200 X $7.50=3D$1500 leaving you with $6300 to cover fixed costs. =
(hardware.) Now that is 200 single CD's we are talking about, not annual =
subscriptions. If you lower the number to 100 you still have $3150 to =
cover fixed costs. I still say if you lower the price to $29.95 for a =
single CD and $69.95 (3 CD's) for an annual subscription you will do =
just fine and your sales increase will more than offset your reduced =
price. I am assuming that you will be able to get the entire archive on =
one CD. Al prober(at)iwaynet.net
----------
From: Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001[SMTP:dralle(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 1996 1:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: CDROM...
Mike and everyone,
Thank you for your contributions! The amount of support I have been=20
receiving has been truly wonderful!=20
As far as the CD, the actual numbers listed were $39 for a single CD and
$99 for 3 CDs over a year period (1 every 4 months). These numbers were
just a starting point, however, and I am open to suggestions. I have =
been
receiving some good feedback from a number of List members regarding the =
amount and frequency of the CDs. As for the pricing, here's how I came =
up=20
with the numbers:
Hardward to produce the CDRoms: $ 950.00
Blank CDRoms: $ 7.50 Each
If I set the price of the Archive CDRom at $39:
Archive CDRom: $39.00
Blank CDRom: -$7.50
-------------------
Net "profit": $31.50
Now, if I take the cost of the Hardware investment and divide it by the
net "profit":
Hardware Cost: $ 950.00
Net "profit": divided by: 31.50
-------------------
30 CDs
So, in total, everyone will have to buy 30 Archive CDRoms, before I will
even break even on the deal. On the 31st CD there will finally be a
real profit that will, actually, be turned around and spent to support
the hardware and connectivity for the RV and Zenith Lists.=20
So that's my reasoning. Does everybody think that $39 is too high =
(low?)?
I don't want to price it such that most people just won't buy it, but on =
the=20
otherhand, if I price it too low, it will be years before I will ever =
break=20
even on costs. The idea is to ultimately offset some of the cost of the =
List=20
operation, AND provide people with a handy resource as well.
I certainly don't want anyone to feel obligated to purchase the CD or to
send a contribution of any particular amount. I run the List because I =
love=20
RVs and because so many people receive so much good from it. Your
contributions either direct or through the purchase of the CD are =
ultimately
in the interest and betterment of the List. Everyone's generosity thus
far has been overwhelming, and it is very inspiring for me interms of =
the many
hours I spend making sure the Lists are running smoothly and the money I
spend on it.
Please, contribute whatever you can, and buy the CDs if would find them
useful. I thank you. Everyone on the List thanks you! You're a great
group!
Feedback please!
Matt Dralle
RV/Zenith List Admin.
Matronics
dralle(at)matronics.com
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BB90D5.E80B2960--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fiberglass gear leg fairings |
Regarding fiberglass gear leg fairings, John Ammeter writes:
> What Jerry does (I think) to make his fiberglass fairings is to lay two or
> three layers of glass inside the metal fairings (be sure to apply mold
> release). You'll have to close the rear of the fairings to get the right
> shape. After they set up pop the aluminum off of the fiberglass and cut the
> trailing edge open.
I've not done gear legs, but I have done fiberglassing. A strip of wax paper
(the grocery store stuff) between the two sides when you close them up
will eliminate having to cut the trailing edge open.
Hank Eilts
In slo-motion on an RV6 tail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill garrett <bgarrett(at)fast.net> |
You wrote:
>I'm sure I'm overlooking something simple, but I'm taking the time to build
>the bellcranks for the wing kit, and I can't find any .063 stock for the
>1/2" x 1 5/8" spacers required. I've checked the inventory and the bag
>contents, and I just don't have it. Am I supposed to hack up some of the
>.063" angle?
That's what I did ("hack" up some .063" angle). I had some scrap left from
the now-well-discussed spreader and rib reinforcement angles and just cut my
spacers from there. I didn't find any .063" stock anywhere either in the
kit for this purpose.
Best wishes,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
>AH! According to the FAA it's actually 49% completed... Don't give away
the secret!
>
According to the FAA checklist, its only about 42% completed .
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: propellers & altitude???? |
Jim,
I would be interested in more info on this prop (manufacturer, price,
reliability history, etc). In fact I would be interested in getting a good
look at your airplane up-close. You seem to have built a lot of unique and
interesting features into it. The one picture I've seen of it looks great.
Do you plan on attending any fly-ins in the So-Cal area any time in the near
future?
Mike Wills
RV-4 ser# 4083
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
*****************************************************************
>A variable pitch propellor will accomplish the same result as the constant
>speed prop.
>
>I have been flying an electric variable pitch prop on my RV-3 since Dec.
>1995. Take-off and climb performance is significantly greater with this
>prop, compared to the Warnke fixed pitch wood prop I also use occasionally.
>
>Mechanically speaking, the variable pitch prop is a direct bolt-on
>replacement for the fixed pitch prop. It weighs about the same as the fixed
>pitch wood prop that would normally be use.
>If you would like to know more about this prop, please e-mail me direct.
>
>If there is enough interest, I'll respond to the rv-list.
>
>BTW, with proper take-off technique and flap setting, how much shorter a
>take-off roll would I get from what I get now? I nornally use about 120 feet
>:-) (The wheels get light as I roll over the runway numbers, maybe with
>proper technique I could take-off on the numbers.)
>
>Jim Ayers
>LOM M332A powered RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
>LesDrag(at)aol.com
>Thousand Oaks, California USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Goble <john.henry.goble(at)medtronic.com> |
RV-4 For Sale:
One A&P owner built, maintained, and flown. Completed June 1989. 480
hours on airframe. 452 hours STOH on 160 hp Lycoming 0-320-B3B (constant
speed compatible engine). Pacesetter wood prop. Basic light weight VFR
airplane. Terra TX720 Comm. Terra TRT250D transponder with encoder.
Garmin 55 GPS. New Van's extended gear legs. New tires, brakes, battery.
The interior is painted a very light, bluish grey with light grey carpet
and very nice grey upholstery seats. The exterior is not painted so you
can see how well the airplane was built (no bondo). The aluminum is
lightly polished and the airplane looks good. $37,900. (512)259-3681.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RVs on floats... |
Eustace Bowhay called me last night to report that the RV-6FA (Amphib)
is flying! He says things are going well, after originally having to
rework it some due to CG problems. He says the Amphibious gear added
about 90lbs to the straight float weight.
He also told me that he worked out the RV-6A float conversion. All it
is is a different motor mount, essentially an RV-6/6A combo motor mount,
that Vans will be providing. If you intend to put floats on your RV-6A
you need to tell Vans you need the "float" motor mount when ordering
your finish kit. Nothing else is different, and the tailwheel -6
requires no special modification during building.
Eustace will be coming down to the Homecoming but unfortunately will be
driving not flying as he hasn't flown the hours off his amphibious
setup. He does plan to bring photos and video though.
I would love to try floats on my plane some day, but first I have to
just get the damn thing finished and flying off of dry land! Besides,
frankly, NW Oregon isn't the greatest place to be flying floats. Maybe
some day....
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
bill garrett wrote:
>
> You wrote:
> >I'm sure I'm overlooking something simple, but I'm taking the time to build
> >the bellcranks for the wing kit, and I can't find any .063 stock for the
> >1/2" x 1 5/8" spacers required. I've checked the inventory and the bag
> >contents, and I just don't have it. Am I supposed to hack up some of the
> >.063" angle?
>
> That's what I did ("hack" up some .063" angle). I had some scrap left from
> the now-well-discussed spreader and rib reinforcement angles and just cut my
> spacers from there. I didn't find any .063" stock anywhere either in the
> kit for this purpose.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Bill
I am working on my left wing (RV6) and did have the .063 stock in my kit.
I made up the parts as described.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Tail wheel Springs |
Jim Ayers, LOM powered RV-3, talking about his locking tailwheel
assembly with internal cables, said:
> I don't like changing what Van has designed.
What, did I miss a ";-)" here or is the sarcasm just so obvious it
goes without saying? :-)
> I have a full swiveling locking tail wheel without chains, springs, or
> external rudder horns.
I have some taildragger time, including around 30 in the RV-6, and have
never flown with a locking tailwheel, so I don't know really what it
buys you. On takeoff it seems to me about the only thing would be to
avoid the tendency to fishtail when you apply full power, but I don't
find that to be a problem if I apply power smoothly, and anyway the tail
can be brought up almost immediately in the RV. What about landing? Do
you keep it locked? I would think that would cause its own problems.
Maybe someone can enlighten me.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Leg Fairings |
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | Imron on Baffles and stuff |
Hi Scott,
I painted my rocker covers with white Imron that I had left over from the
paintjob. They have been on for about 100hrs so far. They still look like I
just painted them. The rocker covers were rusty so I bought one of those
cheapie $10 blasting guns and a bag of play sand (kid's sand box sand) and
blasted them using my air compressor. I primed them with spray can zinc
chromate and top coated with the Imron. So far it's holding up. Hope this
helps.... [;-)
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
Scott wrote:
I primed all the components of my firewall during fuse construction. After
the piano hinges were on, I went back and painted all the exposed aluminum
of the engine compartment side with Imron. I can't see the firewall
getting
so hot as to effect the Imron. BTW, I'm about to paint my engine baffles
with Imron . Does anybody know if Imron will not stand up to the heat of
being that close to the engine?
-Scott N506RV
scottg(at)villagenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> I'm sure I'm overlooking something simple, but I'm taking the time to build
> the bellcranks for the wing kit, and I can't find any .063 stock for the
> 1/2" x 1 5/8" spacers required.
You new-builder weenies -- back when we had to make our OWN fuel
tank access covers and reinforcing rings out of a piece of .063,
there was plenty of scrap left over for making spacers. Not any
more I guess....
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Richardson <Mark.Richardson(at)sofkin.ca> |
Hey folks,
I just tried looking at Van's Web page and it is gone.
Any idea what happend ? No big deal, just curious.
Mark
----------------
Mark Richardson
Project Manager, Defence Systems, Software Kinetics Ltd.
RV-6 20819
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harold Sutphin <hsutphin(at)magicnet.net> |
Matt,
You could base the cost on tentative orders. Ask the listers who is in
for a CD and who is in for a subcription. Base your cost on that number.
If you amortize the cost of the CD recorder on the volumes you produce
or sell for the first year, it could be more economical for the listers.
The other thought is to
'farm out' the cd production to 3M or similar outfit. A typical price
to produce from 1 master CD (including the mastering costs and storage
for 1 year) is about $1000 to $1200. This price includes 100 copies.
They can produce additional for $1.38 a copy. There are bigger breaks
when you get into the higher volumes. They typically have about a 2 week
turn around, but for more $ they can express it to 3 days.
You did'nt take into account the time it takes to produce CD-R type 'one
off' disks from the $950 recorder, but if full (650Mb) the typical time
is about 15 minutes each. I recently did some (50Mb) that took about 5
minutes each. Granted you don't have to watch the system but you have to
load, unload cds and re-initiate the software. Just something to think
about....:)
Harold
Lockheed Martin
RV-6A //Wing kit started//
Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001 wrote:
>
> Mike and everyone,
>
> Thank you for your contributions! The amount of support I have been
> receiving has been truly wonderful!
>
> As far as the CD, the actual numbers listed were $39 for a single CD and
> $99 for 3 CDs over a year period (1 every 4 months). These numbers were
> just a starting point, however, and I am open to suggestions. I have been
> receiving some good feedback from a number of List members regarding the
> amount and frequency of the CDs. As for the pricing, here's how I came up
> with the numbers:
>
> Hardward to produce the CDRoms: $ 950.00
> Blank CDRoms: $ 7.50 Each
>
> If I set the price of the Archive CDRom at $39:
>
> Archive CDRom: $39.00
> Blank CDRom: -$7.50
> -------------------
> Net "profit": $31.50
>
> Now, if I take the cost of the Hardware investment and divide it by the
> net "profit":
>
> Hardware Cost: $ 950.00
> Net "profit": divided by: 31.50
> -------------------
> 30 CDs
>
> So, in total, everyone will have to buy 30 Archive CDRoms, before I will
> even break even on the deal. On the 31st CD there will finally be a
> real profit that will, actually, be turned around and spent to support
> the hardware and connectivity for the RV and Zenith Lists.
>
> So that's my reasoning. Does everybody think that $39 is too high (low?)?
> I don't want to price it such that most people just won't buy it, but on the
> otherhand, if I price it too low, it will be years before I will ever break
> even on costs. The idea is to ultimately offset some of the cost of the List
> operation, AND provide people with a handy resource as well.
>
> I certainly don't want anyone to feel obligated to purchase the CD or to
> send a contribution of any particular amount. I run the List because I love
> RVs and because so many people receive so much good from it. Your
> contributions either direct or through the purchase of the CD are ultimately
> in the interest and betterment of the List. Everyone's generosity thus
> far has been overwhelming, and it is very inspiring for me interms of the many
> hours I spend making sure the Lists are running smoothly and the money I
> spend on it.
>
> Please, contribute whatever you can, and buy the CDs if would find them
> useful. I thank you. Everyone on the List thanks you! You're a great
> group!
>
> Feedback please!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV/Zenith List Admin.
> Matronics
> dralle(at)matronics.com
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass gear leg fairings |
>Regarding fiberglass gear leg fairings, John Ammeter writes:
>
>> What Jerry does (I think) to make his fiberglass fairings is to lay two or
>> three layers of glass inside the metal fairings (be sure to apply mold
>> release). You'll have to close the rear of the fairings to get the right
>> shape. After they set up pop the aluminum off of the fiberglass and cut the
>> trailing edge open.
>
>I've not done gear legs, but I have done fiberglassing. A strip of wax paper
>(the grocery store stuff) between the two sides when you close them up
>will eliminate having to cut the trailing edge open.
>
>Hank Eilts
>In slo-motion on an RV6 tail.
I've also done a fair amount of fiberglass work. A similar technique would
be to use a piece of mylar (available from plastic supply houses) in place
of the metal. The fiberglass could be layed up on the mylar sheet while it
is layed out flat on your bench. After the layup is complete but before the
resin cures fold the mylar so the 2 long edges meet and duct tape them
together. A piece of wax paper or another piece of mylar could be inserted
between the 2 edges so the trailing edge can be seperated after cure.
A similar technique could be used along with a vacuum pump/vacuum bag system
to fiberglass over the wood/foam core that is built up on the gear leg as
detailed in the manual.
The advantage to using mylar is that it is very easy to squeegee off the
excess epoxy and there is no filling required on the completed part because
the mylar leaves a glass smooth surface after it is removed from the cured
layup.
I (and many others) have used this technique for years in building composite
wings for competition RC sailplanes.
Mike Wills
RV-4 ser# 4083 waiting for my wing kit
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: STTA: Balanced Wheel Pants |
>How many of you have balanced your wheel pants??
>
>One of Van's newsletters refers to this as a method of removing the gear leg
>shimmy, and allows the satisfactory use of the simple sheet aluminum gear
>leg fairing.
>
>After I balanced my wheel pants, and I could properly inflate the tires
>without getting the taxi shimmy.
>
>Jim Ayers
Jim & fellow RVers,
I didn't balance my pants but I did think about doing it. I figured my
six weighed enough, already. I did put on the wood dampeners with
fiberglass wrap. Only occasionally do I get any shimmy and it doesn't last
long, nor is it very bad. I've been running 40 lbs in my tires. Anything
less, and it seems like the RV is really hard to move around on sod.
I did make one piece aluminum gear leg fairings out of .020" 300 hours so
far and no bends in the metal. They are not very much bigger than the two
piece fairings and I sure like the looks of them better.
Also, I didn't use the method of attaching the hinge pin that Van has in
the plans. I made a mount plate for a nut plate (a joggled piece of .032")
that I glued and screwed to the wood stiffner at the bottom of the gear leg,
on the bottom. The bottom of the one piece fairing has a dimpled hole for
a #8 flush screw and this attaches to the joggled piece on which the
nutplate is afixed. This set up positions the fairing in all directions. I
also drilled a hole in the joggled piece for safety wire that goes around
the 90 degree bent hinge pin. This eleminates a hose clamp on the axle.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com> |
Allan W. Mojzisik wrote:
>Matt,
>I may be missing something here but your calculations are indicating
>that you have to buy hardware for everyone on the list. The hardware
>is a fixed, (one time) cost. (I think) The CD blank is a variable cost.
>Incurred with each sale.) So your sale of 30 ndividual CD's will
>nearly cover your fixed costs and then you are looking at profit.
>Lets' say you sell 200 CD's at $39 = That's $7800 less the cost of
>the CD's blanks 200 X $7.50=$1500 leaving you with $6300 to cover
>fixed costs. (hardware.) Now that is 200 single CD's we are talking
>about, not annual subscriptions. If you lower the number to 100 you
>still have $3150 to cover fixed costs. I still say if you lower the
>price to $29.95 for a single CD and $69.95 (3 CD's) for an annual
>subscription you will do just fine and your sales increase will more
>than offset your reduced price. I am assuming that you will be able to
>get the entire archive on one CD.
>Al prober(at)iwaynet.net
Matt has been doing this list for several years for nothing, I know he
spends
hours with keeping it running, if he can do a CD and make a big profit
more
power to him.
Matt put me down for one at $39.95
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) (Hillsboro,
OR)
jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
Bob Skinner was asking about the Sensenich for the O-360. I checked their
web page and it turns out they found a resonance at 2150 rpm. It's back to
the drawing board for now.....
John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Jim=Preston%303FS_DOT%Whiteman(at)szl.afres.af.mil> (Maj, 305FS/DOT, Whiteman |
AFB, 975-2968)
| Subject: | Re: .063 stock (Chatter) |
Here it comes...
>You new-builder weenies -- back when we had to make our OWN fuel
tank access covers and reinforcing rings out of a piece of .063,
there was plenty of scrap left over for making spacers. Not any
more I guess....
Randall Henderson, RV-6<
Yeah, and we had to make our own aluminum out of bauxite, too!
And we had to WALK over 10 miles to Van's, uphill, both ways.
You "old fart" builders sure had it tough, Randall. (Bet you haven't been
called an old fart lately, have you Randall?)
Before I get flamed, my comments are all in fun. We're glad you guys did
all the hard stuff for us.
Jim Preston
jpreston(at)szl.afres.af.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: propellers & altitude???? |
Hi Jim....
Expound upon your electric prop..... esp, what maximum rated horsepower do
they manufacture?... how bout pusher versions?
Denny k8do(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings |
<< The way I figure it, one should not put the plane on its gear until the
fairings are made, but must do so temporarily to align them exactly with the
centerline/slipstream. This raises all sorts of questions in my mind about
how to support the plane as the engine mount goes on and what sequence to
follow for the finish kit now that the panel is about done. Up til now I've
relied on the Orndorf tapes, but I'm not sure how well the slider canopy on
George & Becki's plane will help me with the tip-up, so haven't made the
investment in the latest video.
Hi Bill. Even with a tip up canopy, I think the finish video from Orndorff
is an excellent purchase. He gives a lot of helpful info on the cowl
installation, as well as baffles (what a project THAT turned out to be),
engine, mount, etc.
I'm not sure I understand why you want to wait to put the plane on the gear.
The gear fairings are one of the last things you need to do. In fact, I'm
going to wait until my engine has a few hours on it before I install my wheel
pants and leg fairings to keep the power a little higher for break-in. I
think it would be extremely difficult to put the gear on once the engine and
all FWF stuff is on. I mounted mine on the gear shortly after installing the
top (rear) skins.
> I think "executive paralysis" has set in and I need a pep talk. I'm
getting
>tired of this thing after 26 months and yet I'm so close to having something
> that LOOKS like an aeroplane. Actually, my gut tells me I'm close, while
my
> head tells me I have a LONG way to go yet. (I hate it when they argue.)
I know how you feel. I've been working on mine for 22 months, every spare
moment. I think I've reached critical mass, but I can see the light at the
end of the tunnel and that's helping to keep me moving.
As far as being close, you are, but not as much as you probably think. (Big
help, huh?) Seriously, there is a lot of work left, but I've found it to be
a lot more fun as it seems to be "real" stuff that really gives you a boost
when it's done. (The first time you sit in there and close the canopy will
give you the chills).
Keep pluggin'
Ed Bundy (Baffles FINALLY done, mounting oil cooler)
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I have .063 scrap from my RV-4 instrument panel(F-403). Bruce Bell RV-4
Bell(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dyer(at)ticnet.com (Terry ) |
>The other day, I tried to tighten the "O" ring on one of my old style gas
>caps as it was leaking a little in flight. I'll be darned if I could get
>the nut to budge and ended up shearing the roll pin. What is the secret to
>getting that nut to move? Fortunately, I was able to "borrow" the new style
>fuel caps off of my new wing kit. Same question. If these new style caps
>start to leak, how can I tighten the "O" ring without screwing things up?
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
>
>How's this for a sig---got it off r.a.h.
>
>When I go, I want to go quietly, in my sleep, like my grandfather ---- not
>screaming, like his passengers. author unkown
>
>
>
I have had the same problem with the new style cap. The roll pin gets worn and
falls apart. I solved my prblem with a drill bit. A drill bit will be about
the same hardness as the roll pin bot is solid instead of hollow, and it
can't come out after the nut is on.
Terry
N294Rv
Rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: .063 stock (Chatter) |
> You "old fart" builders sure had it tough, Randall. (Bet you haven't been
> called an old fart lately, have you Randall?)
No, and at 38 I'm still one of those guys that get's called a "kid" when
I go to the RV and EAA meetings. (I used to go to the Antique club
meetings too, and they seemed surprised I had learned how to walk!).
Guess I picked the right group to hang out with!
> Before I get flamed, my comments are all in fun. We're glad you guys did
> all the hard stuff for us.
Yeah well, as much as I like to poke fun at the "new" guys, I can't hold
a candle to the REAL old-timers. In fact, I was reading an old RVator
from 1976 and came across a thing Van wrote about this neat tool he got
a chance to try out -- a HAND SQUEEZER. He said it was nice to use, but
kind of expensive and not an essential tool! Remember, there was no
such thing as an Avery arbor back then, (and god forbid he'd spend the
money for a pneumatic) so you can imagine what it was like to build an
RV in those days, from scratch yet!
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 1) Slid. canopy seal, 2) Tail wheel steering |
<< I don't know why! When I was setting-up my RV I had the chains tight.
The
local RV expert looked at this and told me that I needed one or two extra
links. Hay, what do I know, so I ordered a new chain and and added two
links
to the length. I did taxi the aircraft with it tight and it did respond
well. I find that the tail wheel is sensitive at speeds higher than taxi
speed so I think that it might be too sensitive (for me) with the chains
tight. I guess it all comes down to what you are use to. IMHO the aircraft
seems to handle a little better with this set-up. >>
There is a binding that can develop because of the different lengths of the
rudder horn and the arms on the tailwheel. If you leave the chains too tight
you may not be able to get full rudder travel. Other than that it is a matter
of taste.
Andy Hanna
AHanna2(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.att.com |
Folks,
all this discussion is leaving out one little item....the work involved
in making the CD ROM's. Sure the equipment costs money, but I'm sure
it won't do the work by itself. Matt should have some $$ included to
cover his time on the job to duplicate the CD's plus for the creation
of each master CD ROM for each "new issue".
Perhaps after the first year, the price could be adjusted once the
learning curve has been experienced.....
I myself will continue to rely on the list for general information and
neat "tidbits"....as well as instructions/information from other
builders/sites (Frank Justice, etc.).
Remember the kits are in evolution, so "old" information may not be
as appropriate/needed for building of the newer kit versions that us
newbies are/will be purchasing.
my 2c.....
workshop being set up......order -6A empennage kit by mid/end of September.
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
>Bob, and others:
>That flat round piece of metal under the locknut is threaded, too. That makes
>the nut a locknut, not an adjustment nut like the older style caps. Loosen
>the nut, and tighten the bottom plate. I found the mandrel from an old LP4-3
>rivet will work in place of a roll pin.
>
>Check six!
>Mark
Mark, Thanks. How do the old style cap differ from the new. I broke the
pin on the old style. Is the bottom plate threaded on this cap as well. I
thought I'd fix it up for use as a spare. Thanks, Bob Skinner
BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: .063 stock (Chatter) |
>Here it comes...
>
>>You new-builder weenies -- back when we had to make our OWN fuel
>tank access covers and reinforcing rings out of a piece of .063,
>there was plenty of scrap left over for making spacers. Not any
>more I guess....
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6<
>
>Yeah, and we had to make our own aluminum out of bauxite, too!
>
>And we had to WALK over 10 miles to Van's, uphill, both ways.
>
>You "old fart" builders sure had it tough, Randall. (Bet you haven't been
>called an old fart lately, have you Randall?)
>
>Before I get flamed, my comments are all in fun. We're glad you guys did
>all the hard stuff for us.
>
>Jim Preston
>jpreston(at)szl.afres.af.mil
>
>
Heh, Heh, Heh,-------
All of us old farts are going to be sitting back in our rocking chairs
sipping our Gin and tonics while we laugh at you youngsters figuring out
what to do with your quick build kits. We had to learn as we went; you'll
have to learn on the exspensive parts.
BTW, it was 10 miles uphill both ways in three feet of snow.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: .063 stock (Chatter) |
>You new-builder weenies -- back when we had to make our OWN fuel
> tank access covers and reinforcing rings out of a piece of .063,
> there was plenty of scrap left over for making spacers. Not any
> more I guess....
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6<
Thanks to all who replied. Randall, you're right. I made a special trip
to the sheet-metal shop at work today. Not only did they have some scrap,
they even fabricated the spacers for me. I hate asking them for help -
they get so enthusiastic about anything smaller than a 727. If I let them,
they'd build the plane for me and I'd never have any fun. So, yeah, I'll
admit that I'm spoiled. But before you get too cocky, remember back in
Van's time, he had to make his own plans, out of paper and ink. If the QB
guys hang their head to the PP guys, and we hang our heads to the
'old-timers', who hang their heads to the plans builders, then we all have
to nod to the guy who started from scratch. :)
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Variable Pitch Prop |
There seems to be enough interest in the variable pitch prop I am using too
respond back to the rv-list. I have tried to answer the main questions being
asked about the prop.
>what is the diameter and pitch range
The prop blade pitch can vary from 30" of pitch to 90" of pitch. The
diameter can vary from 76" to 60".
It is available as a two blade, or a three blade prop. A 68" diameter two
blade and a 62" diameter three blade are roughly equivalent.
>what kind of static and cruise RPM
I am running a 68" diameter two blade prop. I limited the low pitch travel
to about 40" of pitch, so I wouldn't overspeed the engine in an 80 mph climb.
Since I have been constantly improving the performance of my RV-3, I don't
know what the minimum full throttle rpm is at 7,500', but it is below 2400
rpm.
>what TAS
I am presently getting a TIAS of 191 mph at 7,500' at 2700 rpm and 22.5" mp.
>what kind
The prop has a composite blade. It has a fiberglass outer shell with a
leading edge and a trailing edge carbon fiber spar. Each carbon fiber spar
is formed of continuous strands of carbon fiber that go from the blade tip
around the blade bolt bushing at the hub and back out to the blade tip.
The manufacturer of the propeller is Ivoprop.
I am one of the people who volunteered to flight test his prop. I feel Ivo
has a very practical approach to providing an economical variable pitch prop.
I have been flying his prop for the last three years.
The Velocity people with an 8 inch extension on their Lyc. 360 engine are
providing the really brutal test of this prop.
>Can it operate in hard rain without sustaining damage
About 500 Magnum props were sold last year. Mostly for use on airboats.
It's my understanding that the continual water spray caused by the airboat
eventually necessitates the replacement of the stainless steel leading edge
tape.
Flying a VFR only RV-3, I try to stay away from water, so I don't have any
first hand experience.
>What is the cost and who sells it.
The two blade prop sells for $1740.
The three blade prop sells for $1960.
You can buy direct from Ivoprop, or from his distributors.
I just recently became one of his distributors. There has got to be some way
to have fun and make money legally :-)
Although there isn't anything difficult about installing the Magnum variable
pitch prop, I'm willing to help anyone in California, Arizona, or Nevada, who
buys their prop from me, with the installation, weather and time permitting.
Please contact me directly for this, not through the rv-list. Thanks.
>how does it work
I saved the technical stuff for last.
An electric motor and a three stage panetary gear box is mounted on the front
crush plate of the prop hub. The prop blades are captured between two crush
plates using 1/2" diameter bolts. An adapter plate behind the rear crush
plate accepts the 1/2"diameter bolts, and mounts to the existing prop
extension with its SAE 1 or 2 hole pattern and 3/8" or 7/16" diameter bolts.
The spinner backplate mounts between the adapter and prop extension.
The 9 3/4" diameter spinner on my RV-3 accepts this nicely. The normal 12"
diameter spinner should work even better. The prop blade stack-up is about 3
3/4" from the spinner backplate to the front of the blade. The electric
motor and gearing is about a 2" diameter in the center of the spinner, and
extends forward roughly 4" additional. (The lengths are my guess, since I
haven't actually measured them. If I am off by very much, I'll provide a
correction.)
The base of the blade is bolted down solidly in the hub. There is a torque
tube in the blade which provides the pitch change. The flexibility of the
blade shows up in the in the rudder offset required, also. I use about half
as much rudder on take-off and climb with the Magnum prop as I do with a
fixed pitch wood prop.
A slip ring is mounted to the back side of the ring gear, and a brush holder
mounts to two of the up case bolts. This provides the electrical power to
the electric motor. A circuit breaker and toggle switch are mounted in the
cockpit.
Teaser
An electric governor is under development, but is not available at this time.
For $200 more, someday soon you'll be able to bolt a constant speed prop on
the cherokee engine you're flying with a fixed pitch prop now.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A powered RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
(805) 499-8646
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
| Subject: | Details on Van's Homecoming (8/31-9/2) |
Activities begin with Shop Tours Saturday, August 31 from 11-4pm. Pot
luck at Van's at 5:30ish - "bring salad/beans/etc. that DOES NOT REQUIRE
heating or refrigeration".
Sunday night Banquet is $28/person. Everything else is listed in D~'s
message sent today (attached).
Got my tickets paid for - see you there!
EB #80131
barnes_eric(at)tandem.com
------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 08-22-96 FROM SMTPGATE @MAILMN (dougm(at)qm.WV.TEK.COM)
Reply to: RE>RV-List: Van's Homecoming
It's a little different this year...
the potluck dinner is on Saturday... starting at 5ish... airplanes will be arriving
all day I am sure.
There will be Shop tours, and flyout lunches on Saturday I think too...
Sunday night at Pumpkin Ridge Golf Course is the Banquet...
the site of the Amature Golf turney just this week... man was there some amazing
golf out there... world class greens, fairways are excellent...
And Monday is a free for all... expect lunch flights, hangar flying, etc etc...
best to call Vans a @503-647-5117 and REGISTER!
D~
--------------------------------------
Date: 8/22/96 3:10 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.COM
If I'm not mistaken, this is just over a week away. Having never been
before, what is the schedule? Friday/Saturday? Friday night- Sunday?
I need to book travel by Friday.
Looking forward to meeting some of you guys... and seeing North Plaines!
Thanks,
EB #80131 (picking up the tailkit tonight - YEA!)
barnes_eric(at)tandem.com
------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------
id sma047357; Thu Aug 22 03:04:55 1996
From: Tandem.COM!BARNES_ERIC(at)matronics.COM
Date: 21 Aug 96 17:17:00 -0700
Subject: RV-List: Van's Homecoming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.csap.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Pitot tube installation |
I'm thinking about how to install a pitot tube on my RV-6AQ wing. I
think I'll use the heated pitot tube with integral static source
(AN5814-12) that aircraft spruce sells. Warren Gretz sells a mounting
kit for $80-100, but I'm thinking of following Pat Kelly's lead and
building my own mount.
I assume best accuracy comes from orienting the pitot tube parallel to
the relative wind in cruise flight. I don't know how that relates to
the chord line of the wing (a few degrees difference, I assume). I'm
thinking of going for the simple approach and mounting the pitot tube
perpendicular to the main spar. Any insights into how much error that
will induce? Any recommendations or lessons learned from the group?
Thanks,
Capt Tim Lewis
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Can anyone tell me the function of the F-6120E .063" strips.
chet:
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
Sorry to use the list for this, but.... Mitch Robbins, if your still on
the list please e-mail me regarding previous postings.
Thanks
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall sealing |
boatright thomas reginald asked:
> How many of you are sealing your firewalls against carbon-
>monoxide. Is there a prefered sealant (ie pro-seal etc..)?
I've used both pro-seal (around the firewall cutout box) and Permatex
high-temp rtv (along the sides). Both seem to be about the same to work
with.
I've also tried CS1900 Firewall Sealant, but I can't recmment it bcause
it's too hard to work with.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
crazer(at)egyptian.net (chet razor) wrote:
>Can anyone tell me the function of the F-6120E .063" strips.
I asked Van's the same question a few weeks ago. Tom said that they act as
doublers for the nutplates.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Reynolds <kjtar(at)primenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall sealing |
>boatright thomas reginald asked:
>
>> How many of you are sealing your firewalls against carbon-
>>monoxide. Is there a prefered sealant (ie pro-seal etc..)?
>
>I've used both pro-seal (around the firewall cutout box) and Permatex
>high-temp rtv (along the sides). Both seem to be about the same to work
>with.
>
>I've also tried CS1900 Firewall Sealant, but I can't recmment it bcause
>it's too hard to work with.
>
>Best Regards,
>
>Dave Barnhart
>barnhart(at)a.crl.com
>rv-6 sn 23744
>finishing kit on order
>fuselage out of the jig
Try calling Superflite at 800/323-0611, they might have some firewall sheets
or rolls of material you could use. Also might want to try Brown Aircraft
in FL, talk to Clarence.
Good luck
Tom Reynolds
Hereford, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Bob; I had trouble with my original caps, they would leak out over the wing
and down the flap with heat expansion. In trying to tighten the nut, I ran
into the same problem. What it was, in order to get the O ring expanded
enough, I was hitting bottom on the threads on the shaft. I tried a washer
under the top flip lever, it helped some. About that time is when Vans
came out with the new ones that were more suitable with auto gas use. These
cured my problem. Seems that the O ring is a little 'fatter', has more
give, and the shaft seems to be threaded longer. I've had the new ones on
for almost two years and have not had to adjust them. When there is heat
expansion and a full tank, the vent line drips or squirts at me!
The new rings have a , I believe, brownish tint to them. They (the O rings)
will not work in the older caps.
The old O rings were already getting what appeared to be aging cracks in
them. Don't know how old they were when I got them, but the kit was 4 years
old before I started on it.
Yep, that sign. sounds like me in my old age!!
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Crotch belt |
RV-Listers:
Before I skin the bottom of my fuselage (RV-6) I would like to install mounts
for crotch belts. Van's told me I would have to engineer them myself. Does
anyone have an actual installation they would be willing to share the details of
? I'm open to all suggestions. As of now I'm thinking of using the belts from
Hooker Harness.
Thanks,
Stan Blanton
RV-6
75472.372(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: RVs on floats... |
> Howdy Listers!
> I recall seeing a small blurb on a guy in Canada who had put his
> RV-6 on a pair of custom floats, and as I recall was planning to offer them
> as a kit. I also recall having seen a snapshot of this in a collage-type
> page in Vans' brochure.
I talked to Van about this briefly at Oshkosh this year. He told me a
couple of things.
1. The guy in Canada is the only person he knows of who has done this.
2. He *strongly* recommended contacting this person before I try it myself.
I guess it's a big engineering job.
3. He said it would cost 60 to 70 knots.
4. I could swap between floats and wheels in "a couple of hours", so I would
only pay the 60 knot penalty sometimes.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
14190 47th Ave N.
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
Kevin- good point. I guess relays don't normally fail closed very often
unless they become permanently magnetized somehow. I'm just trying to shift
the odds in my favor a bit. In my RV the master switch is the best quick
way to disable a runaway trim, until I can reach beneath/behind the panel and
pull the mini-DIN connectors out of the relay deck. I just hope it never
happens.
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill garrett <bgarrett(at)fast.net> |
You wrote-
>You new-builder weenies -- back when we had to make our OWN fuel
>tank access covers and reinforcing rings out of a piece of .063,
>there was plenty of scrap left over for making spacers. Not any
>more I guess....
Been there, done that too! It's just that I've already used that scrap for
some non-aircraft uses already and didn't think to dig to the bottom of the
scrap bucket to look for something to use. Not all of us still working on
our wings had all the holes punched and parts made when they arrived
(although the pictures of the prepunched kits sure do look nice). I guess
I'm an old timer in some respects although I must admit that the lightening
holes were cut in the ribs for my kit. Now that's a serious pile of scrap I
don't have!
Bill
Bill Garrett Barb Garrett
RV-6A airplane builder Quilter and Quilt Historian
bgarrett(at)fast.net Pottstown, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
| Subject: | Updated Web Page |
For those of you have not been to my page recently. I have added links to
some great weather related sights (free graphics), aviation BBS phone
numbers, including the FAA's experimental aircraft BBS, some other neat
sights like, airshow scheduals, aviation history, Ice forcasts, and many
more. And of course that great new aviation related sales page.
"http://www.microserve.com/~jcimino/"
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn#80039
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: RVs on floats... |
>> Howdy Listers!
>> I recall seeing a small blurb on a guy in Canada who had put his
>> RV-6 on a pair of custom floats, and as I recall was planning to offer them
>> as a kit. I also recall having seen a snapshot of this in a collage-type
>> page in Vans' brochure.
>
>I talked to Van about this briefly at Oshkosh this year. He told me a
>couple of things.
>
>1. The guy in Canada is the only person he knows of who has done this.
>
>2. He *strongly* recommended contacting this person before I try it myself.
> I guess it's a big engineering job.
>
>3. He said it would cost 60 to 70 knots.
>
>4. I could swap between floats and wheels in "a couple of hours", so I would
> only pay the 60 knot penalty sometimes.
>
>-Joe
>
>--
>Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
>Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
>14190 47th Ave N.
>Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
>
>
I highly recommend if you're seriously interested in putting floats on your
RV that you arrange to visit Eustace Bowhay in Salmon Arm, BC and check out
his RV on the Floats.
Not only will you get to meet a really inspirational Canadian flyer but you
will also see some beautiful country. The Salmon Arm area is just west
(about 150 miles) of Banff and Lake Louise. My wife and I just visited that
part of Canada (renewing our friendship with Ken and Marge Hoshowski (RV-6)
of Salmon Arm in the process) and I can tell you that even if you don't
install the floats that you'll not regret the trip.
I have to dispute the 60 to 70 knot 'cost'. Eustace says his cruise speed
is around 150 MPH. He has a 180 HP with a CS prop on his RV-6.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
I once had the VERY scary opportunity to learn another way in which a relay
can fail in the on position. I had a 19HP engine strapped to my back (an
early paramotor design) which had an electric starter triggered by a relay.
It turns out one corner of the plastic relay case had been cracked/crushed
and a bit of plastic actually fell inside the relay, forcing the contact
on. The engine fortunately didn't start, but by the time I got the
contraption off my back the NiCd pack which powers the starter had started
to smoke. I dumped the smoking, hot, spinning, fueled death machine onto
the ground and decided that I'd start thinking about more substantial forms
of flying machines....
Anyway, it does happen. Relays should fail open, but if the case has been
damaged beware!
-Mike
Waiting for wings...
P.S. Has anyone on the list flown a Grumman AA-1 Yankee? How does it
compare to flying the RV 6-A?
----------
From:
aol.com!SportAV8R(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!SportAV8R(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 1996 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator trim
Kevin- good point. I guess relays don't normally fail closed very often
unless they become permanently magnetized somehow. I'm just trying to
shift
the odds in my favor a bit. In my RV the master switch is the best quick
way to disable a runaway trim, until I can reach beneath/behind the panel
and
pull the mini-DIN connectors out of the relay deck. I just hope it never
happens.
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Electric Trim, et. als. |
>I once had the VERY scary opportunity to learn another way in
>which a relay can fail in the on position. I had a 19HP engine
>strapped to my back . . . . . relay case had been cracked/crushed
>and a bit of plastic actually fell inside the relay forcing the contact
>on. . . . . I dumped the smoking, hot, spinning, fueled death machine
>onto the ground and decided that I'd start thinking about more substantial
>forms of flying machines....
Quoting a famous line from one of my favorite movies, "Never Cry Wolf",
"Good idea!"
>Anyway, it does happen. Relays should fail open, but if the case has been
>damaged beware!
Actually, relays commonly fail both ways . . open and closed. They are
separate failure modes precipitated by different conditions.
>P.S. Has anyone on the list flown a Grumman AA-1 Yankee? How does it
>compare to flying the RV 6-A?
Used to have an AA-1 lease-back in my rental fleet. The airplane is quick
for 115 hp but the flaps are close to useless and it has an abrupt
accelerated stall. One learns to fly it onto the runway if you're
looking for greasers. It's a fun airplane but I cannot imagine
anything Van produces having the unforgiving nature of the AA-1.
>Kevin- good point. I guess relays don't normally fail closed very often
>unless they become permanently magnetized somehow. I'm just trying
>to shift the odds in my favor a bit. In my RV the master switch is
>the best quick way to disable a runaway trim, until I can reach
>beneath/behind the panel and pull the mini-DIN connectors out of
>the relay deck. I just hope it never happens. Bill Boyd
Bill, don't HOPE it never happens, assume that it WILL happen and know
what the consequences are and develop options for dealing with it. Too
many gotchas are KNOWINGLY built into airplanes, sprinkled with holy
water and flown.
I have been out of town a lot lately and didn't pick up on this thread
until now. Listen up guys . . . this is IMPORTANT! You need to
do failure mode effects analysis (FMEA) on all flight systems and
deduce what the consequences are. Then either redesign to make them
no big deal -or- put knowledge and alternatives in place to deal with
them COMFORTABLY.
Electric trim is a case in point. On a LEAR the trim has a great deal
of authority as you might expect given the speed range of the airplane.
In a RV, you should KNOW what trim limits will give you adequate
authority for the airplane's range of speeds and CG. Then design the
mechanism to limit trim travel to those values plus a bit of head-room
at each end. Once you know what the trim requirements are, go fly
the airplane with the trim set at the trim-up and trim-down limits.
Is the airplane unmanageable with trim in either limit? Too many
amateur built designs have way too much mechanical travel in their
trim systems to the extent that trim runaway is guaranteed to produce
a tense situation. I suspect that you'll find that a trim system
can be crafted for the RV's that provide adequate trim authority
for regular use which is so limited that trim runaway to either
stop is no big deal. If so, don't sweat blood and bullets over the
rest of the system.
If trim runaway IS a problem, then slow it down to the extent that
runaway can be sensed and reacted to before it gets out of hand.
Most trim runaways are generated by a stuck trim switch or stuck
relay. In most cases, trim command for the opposite direction will simply
cause the motor to stop. You can hold opposite trim until the breaker
can be pulled. If you're going to have an autopilot, you SHOULD have
an AP disconnect button on the stick. This is a latching relay
circuit that controls electrical power to the AP and kills it
on split-second reaction by punching a button. You should drive
electric trim through the same relay.
I get really tense when I read some pilot's plans for dealing with
failure scenarios . . . from the same movie above, a pilot turns the
wheel over to our hero while he climbs out of the cockpit to bang
on a frozen fuel line with a wrench! It makes for good theater
but lousy flying. If there's any part of your airplane that
concerns you to the extent that EXTRAORDINARY actions are required
to deal with it, then FIX IT. 99% of the time, these untenable
situations occur because (1) the system is badly designed or (2)
the pilot is poorly educated or (3) BOTH.
You guys represent the future of personally owned airplanes in
this country. BCP and M are never again going to be major players
in light aircraft. It's incumbent upon us to rise to levels of
competence both as pilots and builders that were unthinkable
a few years ago. When I was a kid, it was ILLEGAL to pump my
own gas because powers-that-were thought me too ignorant to
do it safely . . . . the same class of regulators and lawyers
are out there assuming that the folk who hammer airplanes together
in their basements are death and destruction waiting for a place
to happen.
If the future is to remain bright, we've got to prove them wrong.
That's why venues such as the RV-list, type newsletters, and
periodicals are so very important. Issues like "trim runaway" need
to be raised, discussed, analyzed and finally dealt with in
a responsible, educated manner.
Going back out of town for another week . . . Dee will gather my e-mail
this time so that the box doesn't get full. . .
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
P.S. When I get back I may have an announcement to make with reference
to a new publishing venture that goes to the heart of the issues
I just touched on . . . stay tuned.
________________________________________________________________________________
>Matt has been doing this list for several years for nothing, I know he
>spends
>hours with keeping it running, if he can do a CD and make a big profit
>more
>power to him.
>
I second that--amortize his time (and materials that are unknown to us
listers) and he is still likely to just break even. Sign me up.
Jon Scholl
scholl.jon(at)bcg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <CompuServe.COM!72770.552(at)matronics.com> (by way |
of MiDiBu )
| Subject: | Electric Trim, et. als. |
>Anyway, it does happen. Relays should fail open, but if the case has been
>damaged beware!
Actually, relays commonly fail both ways . . open and closed. They are
separate failure modes precipitated by different conditions.
Yes they do fail both ways. What actually happens when a relay closes is
that a weld takes place between the contacts. I am, of course, referring to
mechanical relays. The higher the current, the better the weld. And the
higher the current, the bigger the springs required to undo the weld. But
even the smallest relay still is welded together while it is energized. And
they can stick because of that. My personal experience with this was with a
really big relay that stuck closed. Add a little dirt from a cracked case on
the relay and you will see a relay stuck closed on a small relay.
Really!
Mike Weller
Huntsville, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | csanchez(at)world.std.com (Cheryl Sanchez) |
| Subject: | Stereo/Mono headset jacks |
I have a question about headset jacks. I am going to use a stereo
intercom as I have an AM/FM/CD deck. So I will use a stereo headset jack.
Is there a safe way to use a mono headset with this? The instructions for
the intercom say to only plug in a mono headset until the first "click."
This doesn't look too safe to me. When I try that it looks like the tip
of the mono headset plug will contact both of the stereo channels of the
jack and short it out. One idea I am considering it putting in two headset
jack, one mono and one stereo. Is there a better way to do this? Is there
a stereo-to-mono adapter I can use?
Also, from previous messages I understand that the jacks need to be
electricaly isolated from touching the instrument panel to avoid creating
small ground loops that generate noise. Is there a standard insulator that
I can use for this?
Thanks.
Cheryl Sanchez
csanchez(at)world.std.com
RV-6A - Getting ready to wire panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
Hi Folks,
Sorry to use the list for this, but I don't know any other way. I sent
direct emails to the following re the pix orders. If you did not
receive the email, please email me directly again.
Jon Scholl, Tim Lewis, Mike Angiulo, Bruce Patton, Bill Watson, John
Musser, Ed Bundy, Ed Cole, Al Moszisik, Dave Barnhart, Ross Mickey,
RonVandervort, and Rick Jorgensen.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim motor wiring |
I have just installed the EE trim motor. Where are you guys putting holes to
run the electricity to the motor, spar or rib?
Jon Scholl
bcg007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>and down the flap with heat expansion. In trying to tighten the nut, I ran
>into the same problem. What it was, in order to get the O ring expanded
>enough, I was hitting bottom on the threads on the shaft.
>John D
>John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
>johnd@our-town.com
John, My problem is that I can't move the nut one way or the other with out
shearing the roll pin. Substituting something stronger than the roll pin
puts that much more pressure on those thin aluminum ears. I can get along
with out fixing my old cap but thought I'd carry one for a spare. I'm a
little worried about the new style cap should I ever have to tighten the "O"
ring. Hate to be in the "boonies" and break a cap.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stereo/Mono headset jacks |
Radio Shack sells a stereo to mono plug adapter. The only drawback is it
makes the entire headphone jack twice as long. You can always buy a stereo
headset. I've been real happy with my Peltors.
The plug isolators came with my intercom. The were simple plastic type
washer. I would think an intercom manufacturer should be able to supply
them. mine came from Sigtronics.
Rick McBride
N523JC RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube installation |
<< Subj: RV-List: Pitot tube installation
> I'm thinking about how to install a pitot tube on my RV-6AQ wing.(stuff
cut)
> I assume best accuracy comes from orienting the pitot tube parallel to
> the relative wind in cruise flight. I don't know how that relates to
> the chord line of the wing (a few degrees difference, I assume). I'm
> thinking of going for the simple approach and mounting the pitot tube
> perpendicular to the main spar. Any insights into how much error that
> will induce? Any recommendations or lessons learned from the group?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Capt Tim Lewis
> lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil or capntim(at)aol.com
> COML ASEL IA
> RV-6AQ #60023
>>
After watching exhaust trails on the side of my RV-3 fuselage, I believe the
pitot tube should be mounted parallel with the wing surface at the front of
the tube.
According to a NACA report I read on pitot tube installations, the typical
pitot tube will maintain its accuracy for about 15 degrees.
JIm Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stereo/Mono headset jacks |
Cheryl-
Your intercom instructions should address the issue of stereo vs mono headset
operation. Yes, most if not all, installations require isolation of the
sleeve on both the headset audio and mic jacks from each other and from the
aircraft ground allowing the sleeve to be connected via the shield of your
twinax (stereo) headset cabling, back to a specific intercom grounding point
specified by the manufacturer.
The intercom with which I am most familiar (Flightcom) supplies the phenolic
flat and shoulder washers to allow for this isolation.
Further, the stereo vs mono on the Flightcom is dealt with may adding a small
toggle switch at the jack in order to disconnect the unused side of the
stereo feed so as not to short it out when a two-circuit (mono) vs
three-circuit (stereo) plug is inserted. Keep your gozintas and gozoutas
correct or there may be unfortunate consequences.
E-mail me direct if you need further info.
Regards,
Gary VanRemortel
Vanremog(at)aol.com
N1GV (RV-6A cowlings goin' on--yuk, composite!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <74774.54(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Stereo/Mono headset jacks |
You can get a stereo to mono adapter at radio shack for about $3.00.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HBenjamin(at)gnn.com (Harold Benjamin) |
| Subject: | Re: Heeelp! propellers....... |
>Subject: RV-List: Heeelp! propellers.......
>
>Gents I have an RV4 whith a 180HP 0-360 I want to use an Ed Streba
>prop.....any advise on what pitch and diameter I should use?
>
>
>
>Also wanted to know are there any builders out here in
Connecticut?
>
>
>Regards,
>
>
>Matt Fairy
Matt,
One of our local RV-4 owners is has a 68-70 Sterba prop turned
by an O-320. He says he's quite pleased with the performance.
Good luck!
Hal Benjamin
RV-4
Working on the wings
Tallahassee, FL
HBenjamin(at)gnn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 Crotch belt attach |
>Before I skin the bottom of my fuselage (RV-6) I would like to install
mounts
>for crotch belts. Van's told me I would have to engineer them myself. Does
>anyone have an actual installation they would be willing to share the
details
>of
>? I'm open to all suggestions. As of now I'm thinking of using the belts
from
>Hooker Harness.
Stan:
On the -4's I've worked on, we attached the 5th strap to the forward stick
mount bolts, underneath the angle that has the rod end attached thru it.
Seems a similiar attach would work on the -6, using spar bolts in the stick
mount area, or a bracket attached to the large pc of angle that the sticks
mount to. The problem is, the belt needs to be aft of the stick, to clear
everything. The floor would need a large doubler to take the strain of an
attach point. Maybe you could double a lenght of the the floor rib (617 R & L
?), having it attach to the floor as a "T", instead of an "L", and attach a
belt bracket to that.
I'm sure other listers are interested in how this is solved...
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | air1kmo(at)air.ups.com (Kevin O'hara) |
| Subject: | Re: .063 stock (Chatter) |
Use two pieces of .o32 stock. An acceptable practice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gas caps "O" Rings |
John:
I was able to get a large quantity of both size "O" rings for the old
style gas caps at my local "O" ring distributor. Total cost for over 50 sets
was under $10.00! If the pins and bolts hold out, these caps should last a
long time. If you're interested in the source, let me know......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
Bob; I had trouble with my original caps, they would leak out over the wing
and down the flap with heat expansion. In trying to tighten the nut, I ran
into the same problem. What it was, in order to get the O ring expanded
enough, I was hitting bottom on the threads on the shaft. I tried a washer
under the top flip lever, it helped some. About that time is when Vans
came out with the new ones that were more suitable with auto gas use. These
cured my problem. Seems that the O ring is a little 'fatter', has more
give, and the shaft seems to be threaded longer. I've had the new ones on
for almost two years and have not had to adjust them. When there is heat
expansion and a full tank, the vent line drips or squirts at me!
The new rings have a , I believe, brownish tint to them. They (the O rings)
will not work in the older caps.
The old O rings were already getting what appeared to be aging cracks in
them. Don't know how old they were when I got them, but the kit was 4 years
old before I started on it.
Yep, that sign. sounds like me in my old age!!
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heeelp! propellers....... |
Matt,
We have a bunch of RV's down here in the Danbury, CT area come on down some
time.
Bill Mahoney 203-354-6933
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sheinlein(at)VNET.IBM.COM |
| Subject: | .063 stock missing (and more???) |
> You wrote:
> >I'm sure I'm overlooking something simple, but I'm taking the time to build
> >the bellcranks for the wing kit, and I can't find any .063 stock for the
> >1/2" x 1 5/8" spacers required. I've checked the inventory and the bag
> >contents, and I just don't have it. Am I supposed to hack up some of the
> >.063" angle?
>
> That's what I did ("hack" up some .063" angle). I had some scrap left from
> the now-well-discussed spreader and rib reinforcement angles and just cut my
> spacers from there. I didn't find any .063" stock anywhere either in the
> kit for this purpose.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Bill
>>I am working on my left wing (RV6) and did have the .063 stock in my kit.
>>I made up the parts as described.
I spent some time this weekend looking for that elusive .063 and could
not find it either! However, this was overshadowed by a more important
missing part, which was the 1/8" angle that gets riveted to the rib for
the bellcrank. According to a single page that was packed in the wing
box (the one that warns not to cut the firewall or fuselage angle by
mistake), I should have had some 82"+ angle stock (1/8") for the
bellcranks and other misc stuff.
However, it is NOT on my pick list and it is also NOT in my box!
also NOT in my box.
Anyone missing .063 also missing that 1/8" angle? And if not, is
it on your pick list?
By the way, thanks for all the help on the spreader/reinforcing angles.
They are now all in place and clecoed & bolted on!
Stephen Heinlein
sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com
(RV-6/6A right wing... fuel tank)
________________________________________________________________________________
>John, My problem is that I can't move the nut one way or the other with
out>shearing the roll pin. Substituting something stronger than the roll pin
Bob; I sheared one on my old caps. It was either that I had tightened it
into the bolt past the threads or that it had just 'froze' on it. I called
Vans, they gave me the name/number of the source, called them and they sent
me without charge a new bolt with wing tab, washers, and nut.
I still had the same problem, that it would not tighten enough. Seems that
part of the problem was the o-ring on top, under the wing tab, that was to
secure around the bolt and top of the cap. That is where I tried the
washer(trimmed down to go inside of the little recess that holds the
o-ring). Helped a bit.
Like I said, I haven't had a reason to take one of the new styles apart, not
even to adjust it after the original adjustment. The nut may be 'froze' on
it now. But one thing for sure- the new ones will hold a seal without being
so tight on the flip of the tab, so it does lessen the chance of breaking
the roll pin or the tab pin holder.
Have you ever had a bump type drop in your oil pressure? I have the elec.
unit, and every now and then, the oil pressure just ticks down about 10-15
pounds, may do it 4 or 5 times in a minute, then steady as a rock. I'm
going to start elimination by replacement, because there is no other
indication of problems, and it has occurred on and off over the two years.
I did play around with the washers in the pressure release valve, and got
normal results. i.e, extra washer, increase in pressure etc. Just wondering
if anyone else has had such.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gas caps "O" Rings |
>John:
> I was able to get a large quantity of both size "O" rings for the old
>style gas caps at my local "O" ring distributor. Total cost for over 50 sets
>was under $10.00! If the pins and bolts hold out, these caps should last a
>long time. If you're interested in the source, let me know......
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>wstucklen(at)aol.com
>
>Fred, Thanks, but I have the new style caps on now. Have you found a
source for them? I think they are suppose to be more resistant to auto
fuel, and the large one is a different 'fatness' (how's that for a technical
term?)
John D
>
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stereo/Mono headset jacks |
> Also, from previous messages I understand that the jacks need to be
>electricaly isolated from touching the instrument panel to avoid creating
>small ground loops that generate noise. Is there a standard insulator that
>I can use for this?
>
> Thanks.
>
>Cheryl Sanchez
>csanchez(at)world.std.com
>RV-6A - Getting ready to wire panel
Cheryl; There is such. None came with my intercom or radio. I had never
seen them in a catalog. but Gulf Coast Avionics Tampa FL,(813)879-9714 sent
me some. They are phenolic, one is flat, one has a shoulder that goes down
in the drilled hole and flat. Believe me, they are needed!!
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu> |
| Subject: | Control Surface TEs |
Mike Anguilo, and RV List, hi
I got the empennage control surfaces on the -8 closed up over the weekend
and learned a couple of things in the process.
The last row of stiffener rivets need to be within 3/4" (mine are more like
5/8") of the trailing edges to help eliminate the cracking problem. It
wasn't clear that it would be possible to back-rivet the last couple of
rivets, so I tried riveting them the conventional way. I gave up on that
idea very quickly (too scary and only fair results), and went back to
back-riveting. The trick is to build up the surface of the bench
surrounding the back-riveting plate, climb up on the bench, kneel inside the
skin and "spread 'em wide". This is one of those times when an appropriate
amount of force is called for. You can bend the skins just enough to get
the back-riveting set on the last row of rivets without permanently
deforming the skins. Be SURE to push hard enough on the spring loaded black
delrin sleeve so that the skin is flush with the plate, and the rivet is
seated in the dimple. The spring on the set is no where near strong enough
by itself!
I used a couple of redwood (relatively soft) 2x8"s with 4 strong door hinges
for making the final bends. I first made the bends about half way with a
3/16" wood dowel inside, and then switched to a 1/8" wood dowel. This
worked great and was actually quite fun, after worrying about it for months.
I think a 5/32" dowel would be perfect but couldn'd find one anywhere, wood
or metal.
Phil
arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Relay failure modes |
Bill Boyd writes:
> Kevin- good point. I guess relays don't normally fail closed very often
> unless they become permanently magnetized somehow. I'm just trying to shift
> the odds in my favor a bit. In my RV the master switch is the best quick
> way to disable a runaway trim, until I can reach beneath/behind the panel and
> pull the mini-DIN connectors out of the relay deck. I just hope it never
> happens.
When relay contacts are asked to handle current loads (especially inductive
loads such as motors), everytime the contact opens there is a small spark
that melts a bit of the relay contact. That is why they eventually become
pitted. Often they fail in an open circuit mode because the pits eventually
become bad enough that they prevent reliable contact. However, not
infrequently they also will weld themselves closed. It can and does happen.
You should plan for this happening, because if you don't, it surely will
(Murphy).
Hank Eilts
rv6 tail taking too long to build
________________________________________________________________________________
Cheryl asks:
>
> I have a question about headset jacks. I am going to use a stereo
> intercom as I have an AM/FM/CD deck. So I will use a stereo headset jack.
> Is there a safe way to use a mono headset with this? The instructions for
> the intercom say to only plug in a mono headset until the first "click."
> This doesn't look too safe to me. When I try that it looks like the tip
> of the mono headset plug will contact both of the stereo channels of the
> jack and short it out. One idea I am considering it putting in two headset
> jack, one mono and one stereo. Is there a better way to do this? Is there
> a stereo-to-mono adapter I can use?
Flightcom (maker of stereo intercoms), uses a switch at the headphone jack
to open circuit one channel for use with stereo headphones. Their intercoms
will squeal if you plug a mono headset into the stereo jack. More than likely,
you will not do damage to your intercom if you plug in and accidentally short
the two channels together.
>
> Also, from previous messages I understand that the jacks need to be
> electricaly isolated from touching the instrument panel to avoid creating
> small ground loops that generate noise. Is there a standard insulator that
> I can use for this?
Yes. There are fiber washers for insulating jacks from the panel. Two kinds.
One is a simple flat fiber washer. The other is a fiber washer with a lip
on the inside hole. The lip extends into the hole in the panel and prevents
the jack from touching the panel.
flat fiber washer
____ | | ____
------------ | | ----------- panel
____|| ||____
| | washer with lip
| |
jack
In general, you only need to do this on low level signals (i.e. microphone
inputs), not on the higher level signals that drive your headsets.
>
> Thanks.
You're welcome.
Hank Eilts
rv6 tail taking too long to build.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Re: .063 stock missing (and more???) |
VNET.IBM.COM!sheinlein(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> > You wrote:
> > >I'm sure I'm overlooking something simple, but I'm taking the time to build
> > >the bellcranks for the wing kit, and I can't find any .063 stock for the
> > >1/2" x 1 5/8" spacers required. I've checked the inventory and the bag
> > >contents, and I just don't have it. Am I supposed to hack up some of the
> > >.063" angle?
> >
> > That's what I did ("hack" up some .063" angle). I had some scrap left from
> > the now-well-discussed spreader and rib reinforcement angles and just cut my
> > spacers from there. I didn't find any .063" stock anywhere either in the
> > kit for this purpose.
> >
> > Best wishes,
> >
> > Bill
>
> >>I am working on my left wing (RV6) and did have the .063 stock in my kit.
> >>I made up the parts as described.
>
> I spent some time this weekend looking for that elusive .063 and could
> not find it either! However, this was overshadowed by a more important
> missing part, which was the 1/8" angle that gets riveted to the rib for
> the bellcrank. According to a single page that was packed in the wing
> box (the one that warns not to cut the firewall or fuselage angle by
> mistake), I should have had some 82"+ angle stock (1/8") for the
> bellcranks and other misc stuff.
>
> However, it is NOT on my pick list and it is also NOT in my box!
> also NOT in my box.
> Anyone missing .063 also missing that 1/8" angle? And if not, is
> it on your pick list?
>
> By the way, thanks for all the help on the spreader/reinforcing angles.
> They are now all in place and clecoed & bolted on!
>
> Stephen Heinlein
> sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com
> (RV-6/6A right wing... fuel tank)
Stephen.. I did have the material in the laong box and I did have to sort
out the longerons from the other angle pieces. Please tell me what you
are planning to do as far as fuel gauges and senders.
Thanks
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: .063 stock missing (and more???) |
VNET.IBM.COM!sheinlein(at)matronics.com wrote:
> However, it is NOT on my pick list and it is also NOT in my box!
> also NOT in my box.
> Anyone missing .063 also missing that 1/8" angle? And if not, is
> it on your pick list?
Mine came with the angle, and it WAS on the pick list. Call Van's if
you still can't find it - it is part of the kit. Feeling like Santa
yet? (Making a list, checking it twice...)
PatK - RV-6A - Top left main skins getting drilled and clecoed on
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHarrill(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stereo/Mono headset jacks |
<< I have a question about headset jacks. I am going to use a stereo
intercom as I have an AM/FM/CD deck. So I will use a stereo headset jack.
Is there a safe way to use a mono headset with this? The instructions for
the intercom say to only plug in a mono headset until the first "click."
This doesn't look too safe to me. When I try that it looks like the tip
of the mono headset plug will contact both of the stereo channels of the
jack and short it out. One idea I am considering it putting in two headset
jack, one mono and one stereo. Is there a better way to do this? Is there
a stereo-to-mono adapter I can use? >>
Cheryl,
If you haven't already purchased the intercomm, I recommend a unit made by
DRE. I recently installed one in my C-172 and have been very pleased. The
feature that sold me on the unit is that it senses which type of headset you
have plugged in, mono or stereo, and adjust internally, automatically. No
fuss, no bother!!! It also sounds great and has the now common music muting
features.
Regards,
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Maynard, Bryon" <maynardb(at)snowmass.ksc.nasa.gov> |
HAS ANYONE USED .063 ANGLE ON THE BAGGAGE SIDE PANELS TO FORM THE LIP
THAT THE BAGGAGE FLOORS ATTACHES TO OR HAS EVERY ONE JUST BENT THE
SHEET PER THE DRAWING INSTRUCTIONS. I WOULD THINK THAT USING ANGLE YOU
WOULD BE ABLE TO GET A BETTER FIT.? QUESTION COMES UP BECAUSE MAKING
BENDS IN METAL IS NOT ONE OF MY STRONG SUITS. WELCOME COMMENTS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Another category of missing Quickbuild rivets/Navaid Phone number |
RV-6 Quickbuilders,
My kit had no AN426AD4-anything rivets, but AN426AD4-6's (FLUSH head, 1/8"
diameter, 3/8" long) are required to rivet the outboard rear wing rib to
the rear spar. I suggest you check your kit and see if these are included
or not. One can't attach the aileron brackets until the outboard rib is
riveted on, so if you notice the missing rivets on a Saturday like I did,
your weekend building plans will have to change.
Second Subject: Although the Orndorff RV-6 quickbuild video suggests that
one run conduit thru holes in the large (rear) wing ribs, Bill at Van's
suggests that conduit be run IN FRONT OF the spar (behind the fuel tank,
then thru the font ribs). The wires will then enter the fuselage in front
of the spar rather than having to somehow be routed over/under/thru the
spar to get to the instrument panel. Good point, I think.
Third subject: The new phone number (area code change) for Navaid
Devices is 423-267-3311.
Tim Lewis
Working on the Duckworks landing lights (fun so far) instead of the ailerons
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)cris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: .063 stock missing (and more???) |
VNET.IBM.COM!sheinlein(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> > You wrote:
> > >I'm sure I'm overlooking something simple, but I'm taking the time to build
> > >the bellcranks for the wing kit, and I can't find any .063 stock for the
> > >1/2" x 1 5/8" spacers required. I've checked the inventory and the bag
> > >contents, and I just don't have it. Am I supposed to hack up some of the
> > >.063" angle?
> >
> > That's what I did ("hack" up some .063" angle). I had some scrap left from
> > the now-well-discussed spreader and rib reinforcement angles and just cut my
> > spacers from there. I didn't find any .063" stock anywhere either in the
> > kit for this purpose.
> >
> > Best wishes,
> >
> > Bill
>
> >>I am working on my left wing (RV6) and did have the .063 stock in my kit.
> >>I made up the parts as described.
>
> I spent some time this weekend looking for that elusive .063 and could
> not find it either! However, this was overshadowed by a more important
> missing part, which was the 1/8" angle that gets riveted to the rib for
> the bellcrank. According to a single page that was packed in the wing
> box (the one that warns not to cut the firewall or fuselage angle by
> mistake), I should have had some 82"+ angle stock (1/8") for the
> bellcranks and other misc stuff.
>
> However, it is NOT on my pick list and it is also NOT in my box!
> also NOT in my box.
> Anyone missing .063 also missing that 1/8" angle? And if not, is
> it on your pick list?
>
> By the way, thanks for all the help on the spreader/reinforcing angles.
> They are now all in place and clecoed & bolted on!
>
> Stephen Heinlein
> sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com
> (RV-6/6A right wing... fuel tank)Steve,
I had the same problem with my wing kit. Since the newer firewalls come
preassembled, I think you just use the angle set aside for the firewall.
Ed Cole #24430 RV6A N648RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sheinlein(at)VNET.IBM.COM |
| Subject: | Fuel gauges... what's "legal" and what isn't? |
> Rick Osgood asked:
>
> Please tell me what you are planning to do as far as fuel gauges
> and senders.
I'm at the point of constructing the fuel tanks (and I guess Rick
must be also!). I'm confused about what is "legal" and what isn't
when it comes to installing fuel senders/gauges.
In comparing transducer-type systems to certified aircraft senders/gauges
to automotive senders/gauges... what is "legal" and what isn't?
It appeared in an earlier post that I can NOT install a transducer system
unless I also have a standard sender-type system? Is this true?
Personally, I am leaning away from anything "fancy" (like a transducer).
But, can I use automotive stuff? I have a funny feeling it's the same
stuff as in a plane, so is it worth it to buy "aircraft-grade" senders
and gauges for little or no value-add over the automotive ones?
Thanks in advance!
Stephen Heinlein
sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com
(RV-6/6A right wing... fuel tank)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Catherine Lamport) |
| Subject: | Kit Aircraft Builder Magazine |
Our thanks go out to the publisher Mr. Coyne for sending my husband & I a
complimentary copy of the Winter issue of his magazine. We received it at
the end of July and apologize in being tardy in giving our findings to
the RV group.
As a new publication, we were quite satisfied with it. It does require
more proofreading as there were some grammatical and technical errors.
Even though the articles covered subjects that been written before, my
husband who is an AME (A&P U.S.) and a home built inspector, found that he
did learn something. He recommends it for first time builders.
Dale and Cathy Lamport
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Fuselage out of jig and awaiting
finishing kit (6A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Utility & CDROM... |
Sorry Matt ,
Ive been out of town(continent) actually in Denmark for a few weeks! saw some
interesting homebuilts! what do I have to do to get the archive/cd?
regards,
Matt
(Matt Fairy - RV4)
________________________________________________________________________________
Matt:
Recover the harware costs fast--$39 is a bargain for what you've described as
the CD contents. If you begin to make a profit, then rebate. I can't
imagine anyone who has saved a week or more of time and money will worry of
you have a small stash of cash for upgrades, either. Thanks for being open
with the numbers and for your time in administering the list.
Jon Scholl
scholl.com(at)bcg.com
RV6 Wing$ on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Engine OVerhaul status |
As many of you are aware, I am in the process of overhauling a
Lycoming IO320-B1A That will go into my RV-6 when it is completed.
A few weeks ago I posted the preliminary results of the engine teardown.
I finally got all the bottom-end parts back today, and I thought it
would be useful to post my experience and costs so far.
Crankcase:
The local engine shop sent the crankcase to Divco, They repaired
a crack in the lower web at the base of #2 main journal in the right
half. $600
Crankshaft:
The crankshaft was dimensionally checked and magnafluxed. The crank
is WITHIN NEW LIMITS. Flange runout is .003 inches. New sludge tubes
were installed, SB475B (the 'prop strike' SB) was complied with.
$281
Connecting Rods:
All four connecting rods were magnafluxed and inspected. My rods
were the very old style and needed to be modified per SI1183 (It seeems
that the newer style rod bolts have a larger radius at the junction
of the bolt head and shank.) One of the rods appeared to be cracked.
Fortunately, the engine shop had a used servicable rod in stock
which they sold to me for $110. Total: $200
Camshaft:
Inspected and Reground. $100
Cam followers:
Inspected and reground. $20 each. Total: $160
Oil pump:
Here is the expensive news.
Lycoming SB524 requires all Aluminum and Steel Gear pairs to be
replaced at overhaul with the new hardened steel gears. Superior
no longer makes oil pump gears, so we had to go with Lycoming: $340
The replacement of the oil pump gears resulted in two additional changes:
My engine had the old style two-piece oil pump body. To install the
new style gears, the body (housing) needs to be replaced with the
new one-piece style. A new Suerior housing was $207
Secondly, SI1341 specifies that when switching from old style gears
to the new style, an additional oil passage must be drilled in the
accessory case to provide lubrication for the shaft of the driven gear.
(Using the old style gears, this shaft was stationary. Now it is
integral to the driven gear and rotates. Therefore its bearing surface
machined into the accessory case now needs to receive lubrication.)
This modification of the accessory case was $67
This means that I spent about $600 thanks to Lycoming's infamous
oil pump problems.
Misc:
There was .5 hrs labor cleaning and inspecting misc parts $22.50
Total spent today: $2140.04
Running total (for mature audiences only):
Today: $2140
Purchase price of engine: $4500
Sump: 350
Starter Ring Gear: 350
Total: 7340
Still to come:
Accessory case gears:
All four of the gears in the accessory case (crankshaft gear,
camshaft gear, and both magneto drive gears) show wear and are
not servicable. The engine shop has found good used servicable
replacements, so I authorized them to purchase them for me. I don't
have the bill for those parts yet, but I expect it will be around $700
Cylinders:
Next week all four cylinders go in for cleaing and inspection.
I estimate that I'll have about $700 per cylinder (for cleaning,
inspection, welding, new exhaust valve, piston, piston pin, and ring set)
Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Waiting for finishing kit to arrive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: BAGGAGE SIDES |
"Maynard, Bryon" wrote:
>HAS ANYONE USED .063 ANGLE ON THE BAGGAGE SIDE PANELS TO FORM THE LIP
>THAT THE BAGGAGE FLOORS ATTACHES TO OR HAS EVERY ONE JUST BENT THE
>SHEET PER THE DRAWING INSTRUCTIONS. I WOULD THINK THAT USING ANGLE YOU
>WOULD BE ABLE TO GET A BETTER FIT.? QUESTION COMES UP BECAUSE MAKING
>BENDS IN METAL IS NOT ONE OF MY STRONG SUITS. WELCOME COMMENTS.
The secret to making bends like that is to have one of those "Little Giant"
sheet metal brakes. I think they are about $26 from places like US Tool.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.att.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
I have seen relays fail closed in high current/high repetition situations.
They develop a hook that extends from one contact to the other and then
during one of the closures, just stay closed. (These were in Telco
Central Office switches which may operate LOTS and LOTS of times before
failing.....the usual failure mode was wearing out of one of the contacts
necessitating the relay be changed out.)
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
Workshop set up - ordering RV-6 empennage kit Mid to Late Sept.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.att.com |
Mike,
The AA-1 Yankee is much slower, heavier on the controls (besides wheel
vs: stick), and comes no where near the RV-6T's takeoff and landing
performance which I got to experience during a visit to Van's last
fall. Also, don't forget the RV's added ability to rotate completely
around it's longitudinal axis. 8<}
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel gauges... what's "legal" and what isn't? |
>> Rick Osgood asked:
>>
>> Please tell me what you are planning to do as far as fuel gauges
>> and senders.
>
>I'm at the point of constructing the fuel tanks (and I guess Rick
>must be also!). I'm confused about what is "legal" and what isn't
>when it comes to installing fuel senders/gauges.
>
>In comparing transducer-type systems to certified aircraft senders/gauges
>to automotive senders/gauges... what is "legal" and what isn't?
>
>It appeared in an earlier post that I can NOT install a transducer system
>unless I also have a standard sender-type system? Is this true?
>
>Personally, I am leaning away from anything "fancy" (like a transducer).
>But, can I use automotive stuff? I have a funny feeling it's the same
>stuff as in a plane, so is it worth it to buy "aircraft-grade" senders
>and gauges for little or no value-add over the automotive ones?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Stephen Heinlein
>sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com
>(RV-6/6A right wing... fuel tank)
>
>
I think it depends on who your FAA representative is. At least one of the
local FAA reps here has said that they would be satisfied with a single fuel
monitor; no fuel 'gauge' needed.
Personally, I'd like a low fuel level warning float/switch on each tank in
addition to the fuel monitor. Otherwise, WHICH tank has that last 5 gallons
of gas???
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Smiths <kpsmith(at)cnsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built to a Question! |
A well known, and unnamed, local guru was teaching me how to rivet
recently. Working on the VS spar, we used the only tape available from
the local cook and storekeeper--discount brand clear tape. Riveting went
fine, but boy does that tape LOVE the sherwin williams wash primer.
Nothing will budge it! SInce it is so thin, and the glue is so good, I
cannot get the stuff off. Acetone won't touch it.
Any ideas?
I now own a roll of "removable" scotch tape. Avery sold me one, and I
found more at the local Office Max for two and a half bucks.
Ken Smith, finially moving forward on empanage RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Microsoft headquarters (Chatter) |
This is definately off subject but I couldn't resist sending it to you.
>
>
>Ways things would be different if Microsoft was headquartered in
>Georgia
>
> 1.Their #1 product would be Microsoft Winders
> 2.Instead of an hourglass icon you'd get an empty beer bottle
> 3.Occasionally you'd bring up a window that was covered with a Hefty
>bag
> 4.Dialog boxes would give you the choice of "Ahh-right" or "Naw"
> 5.Instead of "Ta-Da!", the opening sound would be Dueling Banjos
> 6.The "Recycle Bin" in Winders '95 would be an outhouse
> 7.Whenever you pulled up the Sound Player you'd hear a digitized drunk
>redneck yelling "Freebird!"
> 8.Instead of "Start Me Up", the Winders '95 theme song would be
>Achy-Breaky Heart
> 9.PowerPoint would be named "ParPawnt"
>10.Microsoft's programming tools would be "Vishul Basic" and "Vishul
>C++"
>11.Winders 95 logo would incorporate Confederate Flag
>12.Microsoft Word would be just that: one word
>13.Instead of WWW servers, Microsoft would have KKK servers.
>14.New Shutdown WAV: "Y'all come back now!"
>15.Instead of VP, Microsoft big shots would be called "Cuz"
>16.Hardware could be repaired using parts from an old Trans Am
>17.Microsoft Office replaced with Micr'sawft Henhouse
>18.Four words: Daisy Dukes Screen Saver
>19.Well, the first thing you know, old Bill's a billionaire
>20.Speadsheet software would include examples to inventory dead cars
>in your front yard
>21.Flight Simulator replaced by Tractor-Pull Simulator
>22.Microsoft CEO: Bubba Gates
>
>*** If this has been forwarded to you, and would like to be added to the
>"Funny and Stupid Things" mailing list, email marq(at)warwick.net ***
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
I'm a little concerned about the installation of the hose that runs from the
mechanical fuel pump to the carb. With the 6A mount where it is, there seems
to be only one way to route this hose, and that's about 1" away from the
exhaust. I'm going to use firesleeve, but my question is: is this enough?
Should there be some sort of metal shield here?
Thanks,
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DMCooke <dmcooke(at)rand.nidlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket 2 accident @ Longmont |
aol.com!JamesCone(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> I found that I could solve the rudder pedal and brake problem by splitting a
> thick rubber hose down the side and gluing it on the tube and securing it
> with safety wire. It wouldn't slip on the shoes and added room to use rudder
> without getting brake.
>
> Jim Cone
> jamescone(at)aol.com
I flew a taildrager with a very interesting brake system. It may be an
answer to the undesirable trait of toe brakes in which they are
unintentionally applied when applying rudder control
I flew this aircraft over twenty years ago so I may not remember all of
the details. However, I do recall that, including trikes and
taildragers, it was the easiest airplane I ever operated for ground
handling and runway control.
The brake system had a lever in the cockpit which the pilot could set
to select the amount of brake to be applied. It could be set to lock
both brakes for run-up and then set to the pilot's preference for
steering. The tail wheel was full swivel with no lock or steerable
detent. There were no brakes on the rudder pedals or on the floor. The
farther the pilot pushed the a rudder pedal the more that brake would
be applied.
It seems to me that this would be a natural for steering a plane which
has a full swivel nose wheel and is controled by differential braking.
I would like to use such a system on my RV-4 but I have no idea how the
system is designed.
Dave Cooke
dmcooke(at)rand.nidlink.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV Builder's Phone List |
boundary="PART.BOUNDARY.0.561.emout12.mail.aol.com.841125339"
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.561.emout12.mail.aol.com.841125339
Okay boys and girls. Attached is a .txt version of my first attempt at the
compleat and definitive reference for all green RV builders. Where to get
all those goodies that all the experienced builders already have loaded their
planes with?
Well, now you know! Some other places I am aware of, but I didn't have their
numbers. Feel free to add and repost or E-mail me directly and I will
consider a second edition at some future time.
I hope some of you find it useful.
Gary VanRemortel
Vanremog(at)aol.com
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.561.emout12.mail.aol.com.841125339
name="AV.TXT"
RV BUILDERS PHONE LIST
AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SPEC 800-824-1930 EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
AM-SAFE 602-233-2802 SAFETY HARNESSES
ANGEL FLIGHT 310-390-2958 MEDICAL TRANSPORT NETWORK
APM-HEXSEAL 201-569-5700 SEALING HEAD SCREWS
AUA 800-727-3823 INSURANCE
AVEMCO 800-276-5207 INSURANCE
AVERY ENTERPRISES 817-439-8400 SHEET METAL AND MISC PRODUCTS
AVIATION DEV CORP 206-546-3011 REMOTE OIL FILTER
BARRY CONTROLS 818-843-1000 ENGINE ISOLATOR MOUNTS
B&C SPECIALTY PRODUCTS 316-283-8000 ALTERNATORS/STARTERS AND ELEC
B&F AIRCRAFT SUPPLY 312-422-3220 AIRCRAFT BUILDING SUPPLIES
CARLINGSWITCH 800-243-8556 VARIOUS PANEL SWITCHES
CHIEF AIRCRAFT 800-447-3408 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
CLEAVELAND TOOLS 800-368-1922 AIRCRAFT TOOLS
E.A.R. COMPOSITES 317-692-1111 NOISE CONTROL PRODUCTS
EXP AIRCRAFT ASSN 414-426-4800 OUR GREAT ORGANIZATION
FAA AIRCRAFT REGISTRY 405-954-4206 REGISTRATION NUMBERS
FASTENING HDWR SUPPLY 716-681-1675 STAINLESS AND OTHER FASTENERS
GENUINE AIRCRAFT HDWR 805-239-3169 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS 800-423-2567 JUST TOOLS CHEAP
HOOKER HARNESS 815-233-5478 SAFETY HARNESSES
LANDOLL 405-392-3847 STARTERS, DAMPERS, ALTERNATORS
DJ LAURITSEN 515-432-6794 SEATS
MATRONICS 510-447-9886 SERVO SPEED CONTROL/FUEL GAUGES
MENZIMER AIRCRAFT COMP 619-598-0592 SERVOS AND STICK GRIPS
MIKE=92S AERO 707-965-2411 ENGINE SERVICE
NATIONAL HOSE 713-920-2030 AEROQUIP INDUSTRIAL HOSE
NAVAID 423-267-3311 TRACKING SINGLE AXIS AUTOPILOT
NORTHWEST AERO PRODUCTS 206-735-5022 AIRCRAFT HARDWARE
OIL ANALYSIS 918-492-5844 ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS KITS
OLANDER 408-735-1850 FASTENERS AND TOOLS
G&B ORNDORFF 817-439-3280 RV VIDEOS, SEATS AND MISC
JEFF POSCHWATTA 206-639-1212 MR. LYCOMING
PRECISION AIRMOTIVE 206-353-8181 OEM CARBURETORS
RADIO SYSTEMS ENG 916-272-2203 KIT AVIONICS
REED MFG 541-471-6289 BLADDER BUSTER RV WING TANKS
RICH INDUSTRIES 520-758-2777 STAINLESS FITTINGS
RICK ROBBINS 303-932-0561 HEAT MUFFS
RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING 503-681-0685 RV WING TIP LANDING LIGHTS
ROCKY MTN INSTRUMENT 307-864-9300 MICRO-ENCODER =
RV FLIGHT BAG 503-648-3464 RV PARAPHERNALIA
SACRAMENTO SKY RANCH 800-433-3564 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
SKYBOLT AIRMOTIVE 407-889-2613 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
SKY-TEC 800-476-7896 LIGHT WEIGHT STARTERS
SOUNDCOAT 516-242-2200 NOISE CONTROL PRODUCTS
TEMPERFOAM 402-470-2346 TEMPERFOAM
TEXTRON LYCOMING 717-327-7278 AIRCRAFT ENGINES
TPS AVIATION 510-475-1010 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
USHER INDUSTRIES 503-647-0015 RV FUEL CAPS
VAN'S AIRCRAFT 503-647-5117 RV KITS
VETTERMAN HIGH COUNTRY 303-932-0561 RV EXHAUST SYSTEMS
WHELEN ENG 203-526-9504 AIRCRAFT LIGHTING SYSTEMS
WICKS AIRCRAFT 800-221-9425 EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
WAG AERO 800-558-6868 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
=0D
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.561.emout12.mail.aol.com.841125339--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine OVerhaul status |
You wrote:
>
>As many of you are aware, I am in the process of overhauling a
>Lycoming IO320-B1A That will go into my RV-6 when it is completed.
>A few weeks ago I posted the preliminary results of the engine teardown.
>I finally got all the bottom-end parts back today, and I thought it
>would be useful to post my experience and costs so far.
>
>
>Crankcase:
>Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
Thanks Dave. I find it extremely informative. Please keep the cards and
letters coming! (No, I don't hope it costs you a lot more.) Sure is
opening my eyes.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel gauges... what's "legal" and what isn't? |
>must be also!). I'm confused about what is "legal" and what isn't
>when it comes to installing fuel senders/gauges.
>
>In comparing transducer-type systems to certified aircraft senders/gauges
>to automotive senders/gauges... what is "legal" and what isn't?
>
>It appeared in an earlier post that I can NOT install a transducer system
>unless I also have a standard sender-type system? Is this true?
>
>Personally, I am leaning away from anything "fancy" (like a transducer).
>But, can I use automotive stuff? I have a funny feeling it's the same
>stuff as in a plane, so is it worth it to buy "aircraft-grade" senders
>and gauges for little or no value-add over the automotive ones?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Stephen Heinlein
>sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com
>(RV-6/6A right wing... fuel tank)
Stephen; The FAA requirements are that you have a fuel quantity system for
your fuel tanks. It doesn't say a gauge for EACH tank, but the ability to
read the amount of fuel in each tank. That's why a single gauge with a
selector switch is legal. If you mean by transducer the system that tells
you information by how much fuel has passed through it, then that is not
acceptable, to my knowledge, by FAA since it is not really a fuel quantity
system. Remember that a sight tube is legal.
As for an auto sender/gauge, I see nothing wrong with those. The gauges
that Vans sells are not really certified etc for aircraft use. After seeing
those, I think some of the off the shelf auto systems would work perfectly
OK. Of course, there is a lot of junk out there also. But you know that
I'm sure.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gas caps "O" Rings |
<< >John:
> I was able to get a large quantity of both size "O" rings for the old
>style gas caps at my local "O" ring distributor. Total cost for over 50
sets
>was under $10.00! If the pins and bolts hold out, these caps should last a
>long time. If you're interested in the source, let me know......
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>wstucklen(at)aol.com
>
>Fred, Thanks, but I have the new style caps on now. Have you found a
source for them? I think they are suppose to be more resistant to auto
fuel, and the large one is a different 'fatness' (how's that for a technical
term?)
John D
>
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
>>
John:
I haven't found a source for the new cap "O" rings......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
Ed:
On my -6A I had the same problem. I put a simple heat shield on the
exhaust pipe and it solved the problem. The shield is nothing more than a
piece of .032 Alum with a .5" steel strap rivited to it to hold it off the
exhaust pipe. I use hose clamps to hold it in place.
During the 40 Hr test period for the plane, I had a temp probe on the
gas line to see what the rise above ambient would be under flying and
non-flying conditions. I don't recall the specific numbers, but they were
such that I felt assured that the problem was more than solved. To date, with
760+ hours on the plane, I've never had a vapor lock problem.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
<<
I'm a little concerned about the installation of the hose that runs from the
mechanical fuel pump to the carb. With the 6A mount where it is, there
seems
to be only one way to route this hose, and that's about 1" away from the
exhaust. I'm going to use firesleeve, but my question is: is this enough?
Should there be some sort of metal shield here?
Thanks,
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <74774.54(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Built to a Question! |
You can try spraying a light shot of WD40 on it. That usually gets most of that
stuff off.
Also, at the risk of starting another flood on primers..... When I went looking
for primers, the folks at my local SW commercial site said not to use the wash
primer unless you are intending on top coating with something else. They highly
recommended the marine primer. This is a zinc chromate, self etching primer and
has worked well for me so far. Best part is it was $26.00 a gallon. I belive
the part number is B50Y.
Oh God ..... what have I done. Not the primer wars argh :)
Rick
74774.54(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, Gil Alexander wrote:
> Tim,
> I'm not sure if you can easily do this
^^^^(run conduit thru nose ribs)
> with Vans conduit. The
> conduit diameter is large (5/8 hole?), and the hole needed would remove
> most (if not all) of the 3/4 reinforcing angle on the innermost rib of the
> outboard LE section. You could do this if you ran just the wires (no
> conduit) and used small grommmets at each rib. Also, the fuel tank baffle
> goes almost to this rib, limiting the room for a "up and over" bent conduit
> approach.
>
> I bet Bill at Vans didn't use their conduit ...:^) ... actually
> the factory planes I've seen do just use grommets to support the wires at
> each rib.
>
> This is from memory, so check the plans and the wing dimensions
>carefully. The wire bundle needed is pretty small if you go with no
>conduit.
Gil,
Rats, you're right ;). The best looking options seem to be:
1) run Van's (or similar) conduit thru the rear ribs. Oh well, there are
only (I think) two wires that have to cross the spar (power for the
position lights and power for the strobe power supplies) so I guess it's
not too big of a deal.
- or -
2) I could (gasp!!!) ignore all the talk of using conduit, and just use
the grommets that the factory installed in the rear ribs. As long as I
leave a string in there for any future requirements I should be OK.
Your thoughts?
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Re: BAGGAGE SIDES |
Maynard,
I thought about cutting the side panels and do the very same thing
that you're asking about, but I decided there wasn't anything wrong
with the original design. I had no problems bending the flanges to
fit. Plus, with bending them there is more material to work with,
like better edge distances which will allow more room to put nutplates
and rivets where you want them.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6a working top fuse skins
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Built to a Question! |
<< A well known, and unnamed, local guru was teaching me how to rivet
recently. Working on the VS spar, we used the only tape available from
the local cook and storekeeper--discount brand clear tape. Riveting went
fine, but boy does that tape LOVE the sherwin williams wash primer.
Nothing will budge it! SInce it is so thin, and the glue is so good, I
cannot get the stuff off. Acetone won't touch it.
Any ideas? >>
I have always found Dupont Gun & Equipment Cleaner to clean ANYTHING in the
world. It's the hottest cleaner that I've come across. Much hotter than
MEK.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Re: Built to a Question! |
There is a product made specifically for removing adhesive. Just called
adhesive remover.
Ross
>A well known, and unnamed, local guru was teaching me how to rivet
>recently. Working on the VS spar, we used the only tape available from
>the local cook and storekeeper--discount brand clear tape. Riveting went
>fine, but boy does that tape LOVE the sherwin williams wash primer.
>Nothing will budge it! SInce it is so thin, and the glue is so good, I
>cannot get the stuff off. Acetone won't touch it.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>I now own a roll of "removable" scotch tape. Avery sold me one, and I
>found more at the local Office Max for two and a half bucks.
>
>Ken Smith, finially moving forward on empanage RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Aileron gap seals |
Fellow Listers:
Thought I'd pass along a word of warning regarding the installation of the
aileron gap seals (applicable to both the -4 and -6). I blindly followed
the plans and installed them as called for and found that when the ailerons
were attached, the leading edge of both my ailerons rubbed the upper
trailing edge of the gap seals. The trailing edge bend and the general
curve of the gap seals must be custom fit to be sure it will clear the
ailerons. Frank Justice's instruction do mention this, but somehow it
didn't sink in.
I just ordered a new set and will give it a try again. (My scrap pile keeps
getting bigger and bigger!!)
Doug
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
Since the primer thread (aaarrrgh) seems to be open again, and the
question of topcoats has come up several times in the past, I thought I'd
investigate. The San Antonio Sherwin Williams dealer (commercial side,
not the house paint folks, 210-654-1481) had this to say:
1. The SW P60G/R7K44 (the stuff Van's uses on the quickbuilds) is an
etching primer.
2. It provides corrosion protection by providing zinc (zinc chromate is
listed as an ingredient) which sacrifices itself to protect the aluminum
3. A topcoat is needed to protect the primer from the elements IF the
primed area is exposed to sun/weather
4. If the primed area is protected from the elements then a topcoat
isn't needed. The primer still provides protection.
5. If you do intend to topcoat the primer the topcoat needs to be
applied fairly soon after the primer is sprayed. Otherwise the primer
gets really hard and has to be roughed up with sand paper before a
topcoat will adhere to it.
My experience: Since my quickbuild was primed at the factory with
S/W P60G I went out and bought some ($42/gal for paint, $23/gal for
reducer/catalyst). My thinking was that I'd get my parts to look just
like the ones from the factory. Silly me. Apparently there's a grey
colored version and a green colored version. My dealer only has the green
stuff, and can't even find mention of the grey stuff in the catalog
(although he's heard from his supplier that the grey stuff may exist). In
any case the factory primed structure is grey, and the stuff I primed is all
green. I now have a bunch of green colored parts that I primed with
primer that cost a lot more than I needed to spend.
If I had it to do over again I'd sure consider another (less
expensive) primer. Zinc chromate in cans would be a lot more
convenient. In fact, I'm going to get some zinc chromate in a can for
those times when I need to prime just a single part and don't want to
hook up the sprayer and mix the primer and clean up again.
Capt Tim Lewis
Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scholl Jon" <scholl.jon(at)smtpgw.bcg.com> |
| Subject: | RMD wing tip landing lights |
I'd like to hear other builders/flyers perspectives on the RMD landing lights.
I'm interested in enclosing position, landing, strobe--how is this kit versus
other solutions?
Jon Scholl
scholl.jon(at)bcg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | Engine OVerhaul status |
Very interesting Dave please keep us posted. Thanks
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
----------------------------------------
As many of you are aware, I am in the process of overhauling a
Lycoming IO320-B1A That will go into my RV-6 when it is completed.
A few weeks ago I posted the preliminary results of the engine teardown.
I finally got all the bottom-end parts back today, and I thought it
would be useful to post my experience and costs so far.
Crankcase:
The local engine shop sent the crankcase to Divco, They repaired
a crack in the lower web at the base of #2 main journal in the right
half. $600
Crankshaft:
The crankshaft was dimensionally checked and magnafluxed. The crank
is WITHIN NEW LIMITS. Flange runout is .003 inches. New sludge tubes
were installed, SB475B (the 'prop strike' SB) was complied with.
$281
Connecting Rods:
All four connecting rods were magnafluxed and inspected. My rods
were the very old style and needed to be modified per SI1183 (It seeems
that the newer style rod bolts have a larger radius at the junction
of the bolt head and shank.) One of the rods appeared to be cracked.
Fortunately, the engine shop had a used servicable rod in stock
which they sold to me for $110. Total: $200
Camshaft:
Inspected and Reground. $100
Cam followers:
Inspected and reground. $20 each. Total: $160
Oil pump:
Here is the expensive news.
Lycoming SB524 requires all Aluminum and Steel Gear pairs to be
replaced at overhaul with the new hardened steel gears. Superior
no longer makes oil pump gears, so we had to go with Lycoming: $340
The replacement of the oil pump gears resulted in two additional changes:
My engine had the old style two-piece oil pump body. To install the
new style gears, the body (housing) needs to be replaced with the
new one-piece style. A new Suerior housing was $207
Secondly, SI1341 specifies that when switching from old style gears
to the new style, an additional oil passage must be drilled in the
accessory case to provide lubrication for the shaft of the driven gear.
(Using the old style gears, this shaft was stationary. Now it is
integral to the driven gear and rotates. Therefore its bearing surface
machined into the accessory case now needs to receive lubrication.)
This modification of the accessory case was $67
This means that I spent about $600 thanks to Lycoming's infamous
oil pump problems.
Misc:
There was .5 hrs labor cleaning and inspecting misc parts $22.50
Total spent today: $2140.04
Running total (for mature audiences only):
Today: $2140
Purchase price of engine: $4500
Sump: 350
Starter Ring Gear: 350
Total: 7340
Still to come:
Accessory case gears:
All four of the gears in the accessory case (crankshaft gear,
camshaft gear, and both magneto drive gears) show wear and are
not servicable. The engine shop has found good used servicable
replacements, so I authorized them to purchase them for me. I don't
have the bill for those parts yet, but I expect it will be around $700
Cylinders:
Next week all four cylinders go in for cleaing and inspection.
I estimate that I'll have about $700 per cylinder (for cleaning,
inspection, welding, new exhaust valve, piston, piston pin, and ring set)
Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Waiting for finishing kit to arrive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | Built to a Question! |
Hi Ken,
Try heat from a blow dryer or heat gun.
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
---------------------------------------
A well known, and unnamed, local guru was teaching me how to rivet
recently. Working on the VS spar, we used the only tape available from
the local cook and storekeeper--discount brand clear tape. Riveting went
fine, but boy does that tape LOVE the sherwin williams wash primer.
Nothing will budge it! SInce it is so thin, and the glue is so good, I
cannot get the stuff off. Acetone won't touch it.
Any ideas?
Ken Smith, finially moving forward on empanage RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | Control Surface TEs |
Hi Phil,
The last row of stiffener rivets need to be within 3/4" (mine are more like
5/8") of the trailing edges to help eliminate the cracking problem.
------------------------
What is you basis for this comment? My thinking is that the stiffner should
extend as far back as possible and the closer the last rivet to the
trailing edge the better. This will provide minimum flex area. I would
define flex area as the distance from the last rivet to the trailing edge.
I don't know any better. I am preparing to cut stiffners for my RV 6. You
are slightly ahead of me. BTW, it seems everyone is slightly ahead of
me........ ;^)
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Surface TEs |
Greg Bordelon wrote:
BTW, it seems everyone is slightly ahead of me........ ;^)
Greg--
Relax...I'm not.
--Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMD wing tip landing lights |
Scholl,
Here's a copy of my order, I think it explains how I feel about RMD.
RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING
3648 SE ROANAOKE CT
HILLSBORO, OR 97124
Dear Sirs:
invoice.................................................310.16
Mr. DeBORDE, you have a great product. I like quality and these
lights are the best I've seen. My new RV-4 is just getting
started but I'll put the wing tips on this time as soon as they
come off the jig. I'll use nut plates and screws so they'll be
removable for convience (storage of wings and service of antenna's).
I'm going to put the running light in your box this time too as
you show in the picture. I think that's a nice, clean installation.
Happy new year!
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On 27 Aug 1996, Scholl Jon wrote:
> I'd like to hear other builders/flyers perspectives on the RMD landing lights.
> I'm interested in enclosing position, landing, strobe--how is this kit versus
> other solutions?
>
> Jon Scholl
> scholl.jon(at)bcg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | Control Surface TEs |
I think putting the RTV specified in the plans should fix the problem very
well. I put a glob of that in at each stiffner junction and can't squeeze
any play in the TE with my hands. Feels pretty stable to me. I just
forgot to leave a drain path down the TE so if water pools in there I'm
going to be rebuilding a rudder someday...
----------
From: Greg Bordelon[SMTP:brokersys.com!greg(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 1996 10:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Control Surface TEs
Hi Phil,
The last row of stiffener rivets need to be within 3/4" (mine are more
like
5/8") of the trailing edges to help eliminate the cracking problem.
------------------------
What is you basis for this comment? My thinking is that the stiffner should
extend as far back as possible and the closer the last rivet to the
trailing edge the better. This will provide minimum flex area. I would
define flex area as the distance from the last rivet to the trailing edge.
I don't know any better. I am preparing to cut stiffners for my RV 6. You
are slightly ahead of me. BTW, it seems everyone is slightly ahead of
me........ ;^)
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine OVerhaul status |
Is there any good news from anyone concerning engines and the absurd prices
we are paying for them? When (if ever) will someone do for engines what Van
did for airframes, provide good all around performance at a reasonable
price? Makes me want to go back to hot rodding cars (I gave that up because
I thought that was an expensive hobby)!
Mike Wills
RV-4 ser#4083
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
******************************************************************************
>As many of you are aware, I am in the process of overhauling a
>Lycoming IO320-B1A That will go into my RV-6 when it is completed.
>A few weeks ago I posted the preliminary results of the engine teardown.
>I finally got all the bottom-end parts back today, and I thought it
>would be useful to post my experience and costs so far.
>Total spent today: $2140.04
>
>Running total (for mature audiences only):
>Today: $2140
>Purchase price of engine: $4500
>Sump: 350
>Starter Ring Gear: 350
>Total: 7340
>
>
>Still to come:
>
>Accessory case gears:
>All four of the gears in the accessory case (crankshaft gear,
>camshaft gear, and both magneto drive gears) show wear and are
>not servicable. The engine shop has found good used servicable
>replacements, so I authorized them to purchase them for me. I don't
>have the bill for those parts yet, but I expect it will be around $700
>
>Cylinders:
>Next week all four cylinders go in for cleaing and inspection.
>I estimate that I'll have about $700 per cylinder (for cleaning,
>inspection, welding, new exhaust valve, piston, piston pin, and ring set)
>
>Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>barnhart(at)a.crl.com
>rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
>Waiting for finishing kit to arrive
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Surface TEs |
Gerg, hi
Well, I agree the rivet should be as close as possible to the TE, but it
says 3/4" maximum on the RV-8 plans. I tried to make them closer, within
reason.
I used a 3/16" wooden dowel at the trailing edge of the skins as a spacer to
get all of the stiffener ends to line up during layout. This worked out
well because when making the final bend, I could only go about half way
before this dowel got crimped by the ends of the stiffeners and had to be
removed, then I switched to the 1/8" and finished the job. The 1/8" dowel
was just small enough so that I could remove still it. I other words, if
you start with the ends any closer than 3/16", you won't be able to get the
dowel out after bending.
I used a 5/16" edge distance on the stiffener rivets, and the last ones are
about 5/16" from the stiffener ends. By the way, my stiffeners were not
bent in the middle, they were more like 11/16 x 9/16". I put the wide side
next to the skin, which made them easier to rivet although arguably not as
stiff (we're talking nit picking here).
The absolute minimum distance the rivets could be from the TE is 1/8 + 3/16
= 5/16" measured from the inside of the TE, after making the final bend.
Mine are about 1/2" from the outside of the TE by actual measurement. I
wouldn't use the minimum edge distance of 3/16" on the stiffeners, this is
certainly close enough.
Phil
arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu
>Hi Phil,
>
>
>The last row of stiffener rivets need to be within 3/4" (mine are more like
>5/8") of the trailing edges to help eliminate the cracking problem.
>------------------------
>
>What is you basis for this comment? My thinking is that the stiffner should
>extend as far back as possible and the closer the last rivet to the
>trailing edge the better. This will provide minimum flex area. I would
>define flex area as the distance from the last rivet to the trailing edge.
>I don't know any better. I am preparing to cut stiffners for my RV 6. You
>are slightly ahead of me. BTW, it seems everyone is slightly ahead of
>me........ ;^)
>
>Greg Bordelon
>greg(at)brokersys.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
| Subject: | Control Surface TEs |
Greg,
I'm curious. What do your plans say for the distance from the trailing \
edge to the edge of the stiffener? Mine say 3/32. That is too close.
I did this on my rudder and found I could not get a good trailing edge
bend. I ended up having to use my hand seamer to get the rudder skin to
lay down properly.
If the skin doesn't lay down properly, you'll find a LOT of stress at the
first rivet.
John
P.S. Nobody seems to have picked up on the O-235 reference in the last
RVator. Could there be a new low cost model coming to the line up
soon.....?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobh(at)synopsys.com (Bob Haan) |
| Subject: | Re: Primer/topcoat |
> My experience: Since my quickbuild was primed at the factory with
>S/W P60G I went out and bought some ($42/gal for paint, $23/gal for
>reducer/catalyst). My thinking was that I'd get my parts to look just
>like the ones from the factory. Silly me. Apparently there's a grey
>colored version and a green colored version. My dealer only has the green
>stuff, and can't even find mention of the grey stuff in the catalog
>(although he's heard from his supplier that the grey stuff may exist). In
>any case the factory primed structure is grey, and the stuff I primed is all
>green. I now have a bunch of green colored parts that I primed with
>primer that cost a lot more than I needed to spend.
>
>Capt Tim Lewis
The grayish color is because Van's mixes 2 parts catalyst to 1 part
primer. If you mix 1.5 to 1 the color is green. I know it sounds strange
that such a small change in mixing ratios could cause a color change, but
it does.
The 2 to 1 mix is also easier to spray.
Bob Haan
Portland, OR
RV6-A starting fuse
bobh(at)synopsys.com
Evenings 503-636-3550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Does anyone have any experience with the Ameri-King AK-450 ELT,
which is listed in Van's Nov 95 Catalog? Up till now the only
one I knew of that uses standard D cells was the ACK E-01 (and I
refuse to purchase an ELT that uses some expensive, proprietary
battery).
According to Vans catalog, the Ameri-King not only runs on
D cells, it also has a 4 year warranty, and is $20 cheaper than
the ACK. Any comments?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jorear(at)mrnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: Control Surface TEs |
RV>Greg Bordelon wrote:
RV> BTW, it seems everyone is slightly ahead of me........ ;^)
RV>Greg--
RV>Relax...I'm not.
RV>--Don
Hey, I haven't even ordered my tail kit yet! Wife says I have to build
a house next spring first, THEN I get to build the 6A. WOMEN!
Jeff Orear
jorear(at)mrnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morristec(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel gauges... what's "legal" and what isn't? |
The FAR's and CAR's for certificated airplanes specify " a fuel quantity
indicator for each independent fuel tank". What this means is that if you
have individual tanks like we do, there needs to be a quantity indicator for
each tank. An "indicator" can be any reliable means to determine the
quantity of fuel remaining in the tank. In general this means a fluid level
type system. Flow meters with totalizer functions generally don't count
(sorry Matt). Now, that's for certificated airplane which we are not. The
FAA inspector will (should) always accept what meets certified airplane FARs,
but there is nothing saying that you can't do something else, so long as you
can convince the inspector that it will serve the purpose.
Personally, I would stick with a individual system for each tank, and one
that indicates the actual fuel left in the tank by the fuel level. BTW the
sender that VANs sells for the ISSPRO guage is a Stewart Warner and can be
found in any most supply stores. VANs price is better though. Most
certificated small airplanes using resistance type level senders are actually
automotive units.
Dan Morris
RV6 S/N 23077 firewall Fwd
Morristec(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD wing tip landing lights |
Jon-
I have bought, but not yet installed the RMD system. The installations I
have seen with tip strobes suffer if the strobe fixture is mounted too high
on the bulkhead (in an attempt to move it out of the way of the taxi/landing
lamp beam). Those persons have had to make a little metal shield mounted to
the lens screws that looks a fin to run interference between the strobe and
their eyeballs.
Getting the strobes mounted so they don't distract the occupants and yet
provide the required coverage seems to be challenging in a craft with such
good visibility.
Gary VanRemortel
Vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
Hi Randall,
I have both the ACK ELT and Mode C blind encoder installed in the =
Cessna. I have two other pilot friends with A/C equipt with ACK. One =
blind encoder failed after two years and it was repaired for free and =
returned pronto like. The ACK ELT also has a small remote control unit =
that mounts in the pilot area. I like their products.
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Does anyone have any experience with the Ameri-King AK-450 ELT,
which is listed in Van's Nov 95 Catalog? Up till now the only
one I knew of that uses standard D cells was the ACK E-01 (and I
refuse to purchase an ELT that uses some expensive, proprietary
battery).
According to Vans catalog, the Ameri-King not only runs on
D cells, it also has a 4 year warranty, and is $20 cheaper than
the ACK. Any comments?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | Control Surface TEs |
My plans call for 3/16 from the trailing edge with the rivet 3/4 from =
the same edge.
Yeah, I caught the message about the 0235. Big mistake, the 0235 cost =
almost the same as the 0320s. If it's a low power low cost model the =
0200 would have been a better choice from a finance point of veiw. More =
parts commonality!
greg(at)brokersys.com
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Greg,
I'm curious. What do your plans say for the distance from the trailing =
\
edge to the edge of the stiffener? Mine say 3/32. That is too close.
I did this on my rudder and found I could not get a good trailing edge=20
bend. I ended up having to use my hand seamer to get the rudder skin to
lay down properly.
If the skin doesn't lay down properly, you'll find a LOT of stress at =
the
first rivet. =20
John
P.S. Nobody seems to have picked up on the O-235 reference in the last
RVator. Could there be a new low cost model coming to the line up
soon.....?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Built to a Question! |
Ken,
I assume you're talking about taping over the VS spar holes which later
receive the steel hinge brackets? If so, just scrape as much of the tape off
as possible, without harming the aluminum, reprime if necessary and drive on.
Once the plane is finished you nor anyone else will ever see it. The
removable "scotch" tape works well.
Rick McBride
Who could that guru possibly be?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Try Goo Gone or Goof Off. Both do an excellent job of removing sticky
residues. 3M also has an excellent product to remove glue but I am not sure
of the name.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Smiths <kpsmith(at)cnsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Surface no drains |
You wrote: "forgot to leave a drain path down the TE so if water
pools in there I'm going to be rebuilding a rudder someday..."
Mr. Lear, in a lecture I heard in 1972, was describing the trials and
tribulations of getting his new jets up to snuff. In an early series of
accidents, the root cause was eventually found to be improper drainage.
Water would build up in the control surface, freeze, then the off
balanced surface would flutter. In that case, the drains were ok on the
ground, but located at a high pressure point in flight. Fly in
weather--fill up your elevator. The cure was a small drain hole at a low
point which also was at low pressure.
Personally, I will ensure that all my control surfaces [and most else]
will drain. T'ain't the rudder rebuild that worries me. It's the weight
that got where it shouldn't be in either liquid or solid ice form...I'd
worry if I knew drain paths were suspect.
Ken Smith, RV6 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | landing light systems |
Can someone post addresses for Olds and BAC.
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | elon ormsby <ormsby1(at)popsicle.llnl.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Built to a Question! |
>
><< A well known, and unnamed, local guru was teaching me how to rivet
> recently. Working on the VS spar, we used the only tape available from
> the local cook and storekeeper--discount brand clear tape. Riveting went
> fine, but boy does that tape LOVE the sherwin williams wash primer.
> Nothing will budge it! SInce it is so thin, and the glue is so good, I
> cannot get the stuff off. Acetone won't touch it.
------------------------------
3M makes a "General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner" Part No.08984. It is used
clean the stickum that builds up on the face of the sanding disk pad. The
kind of pad that you apply a glue stick to and then press on the sanding disk.
The cleaner may be found at paint stores that have a lot of commercial
accounts (in particular Auto Body shops). It will not mar properly aged
paint surfaces (caution - test a small are first). It will remove adhesive,
wax, tar, silicone, and oils.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dyer(at)ticnet.com (Terry ) |
>Have you ever had a bump type drop in your oil pressure? I have the elec.
>unit, and every now and then, the oil pressure just ticks down about 10-15
>pounds, may do it 4 or 5 times in a minute, then steady as a rock. I'm
>going to start elimination by replacement, because there is no other
>indication of problems, and it has occurred on and off over the two years.
>I did play around with the washers in the pressure release valve, and got
>normal results. i.e, extra washer, increase in pressure etc. Just wondering
>if anyone else has had such.
>John D
>John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
>johnd@our-town.com
>
>
>
I think this is a common problem with the electric sending units. I had the
same problem with my electric gauges from Vans. Mine started acting up after
about 250 hours. I disassembled it and it is built like a potentiometer, the
wiper is connected to a diaphragm. The wire wound resistor gets dirty and
doesn't make good contact, which makes the resistance go up and the pressure
gauge go down.
Terry Dyer RV6A
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
I'm finally getting ready to rivet the HS skin after I drill the last
half of the skeleton and dimple everything. I used my pneumatic
squeezer to rivet up the entire skeleton, and I'm finally getting ready
to do some real riveting with the help of a local expert. I determined
that none of the three bucking bars I had would do a proper job of
bucking the rivets in the forward HS spar, and went searching. It
turns out that U.S. Industrial has a set of 10 bucking bars (TP175)
that looks like it has the right bar for just about anything. It's on
sale right now for $110. Just thought I'd let fellow newcomers know.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: RMD wing tip landing lights |
>Jon-
>
>I have bought, but not yet installed the RMD system. The installations I
>have seen with tip strobes suffer if the strobe fixture is mounted too high
>on the bulkhead (in an attempt to move it out of the way of the taxi/landing
>lamp beam).
Gary:
So mount the strobes a little lower. The landing light will still do its
job. Enough light gets around the strobe that its not a problem. Been flying
mine that way for over 2 years with alot of night time. You will have to
tilt the lens down as much as possible to get light while the tail is down.
(if you have a tail dragger)
By the way I found Bob at RMD to be very easy to work with and like the
product. It's one of those things that you put in , it works , and you don't
have to worry about.
Everything should be that way......
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernst Totland" <ernto(at)weald.air.saab.se> |
On Aug 27, 10:31pm, Greg Bordelon wrote:
> Subject: RV-List: ELTs
>
> [ text/plain
> Encoded with "quoted-printable" ] :
Hi Randall,
>
> I have both the ACK ELT and Mode C blind encoder installed in the Cessna. I
have two other pilot friends with A/C equipt with ACK. One blind encoder failed
after two years and it was repaired for free and returned pronto like. The ACK
ELT also has a small remote control unit that mounts in the pilot area. I like
their products.
>
> Greg Bordelon
> greg(at)brokersys.com
Hi all,
I have the ACK ELT in my -6 and it has worked without problems
for almost two years. However, on my last take-off from a rough
field, the ELT was triggered. Thanks to the remote control unit
mounted on the instrument panel, I noticed what had happened and
turned it off within a few seconds. Well, the ELT should not have
triggered in the first place, but it shows that the remote control
unit is a really neat feature.
Ernst Totland
RV-6 SE-XOI
ernto(at)weald.air.saab.se
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
Randall:
The ONLY advantage to the ACK ELT is the fact that you can easily replace
the batteries with off the shelf components instead of an expensive battery
pack. I have the ACK unit, but don't like the WEIGHT of EIGHT "D" BATTERIES.
I had mounted it in the fuselage behind the baggage compartment wall. Had to
move it into the baggage compartment because of the weight issue. Like the
remote indicator/activator, but it also requires a special battery.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
<<
Does anyone have any experience with the Ameri-King AK-450 ELT,
which is listed in Van's Nov 95 Catalog? Up till now the only
one I knew of that uses standard D cells was the ACK E-01 (and I
refuse to purchase an ELT that uses some expensive, proprietary
battery).
According to Vans catalog, the Ameri-King not only runs on
D cells, it also has a 4 year warranty, and is $20 cheaper than
the ACK. Any comments?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
This message is in reference to those of you who have had trouble removing
conventional adhesive tapes after riveting or other applications to aluminum
or painted surfaces.
Any decent Graphic-Arts store has "Drafting Tape". This is a form of masking
tape with a very low strength, low transferability adhesive. Draftsmen and
artists use this product to hold down paper and thin films to a table or easle.
Its great around the house for hanging things temporarily on painted walls and
furniture since it never leaves an adhesive residue. It is great to use on
Aircraft, especially if it is going to be exposed to heat or left on for a
while and later removed. I think it will hold down rivets for back-riveting
just fine. Check it out.
Lou Willig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | Re: Low-stick Tape> & 3-M info |
>>
>>This message is in reference to those of you who have had trouble removing
>>conventional adhesive tapes after riveting or other applications to aluminum
>>or painted surfaces.
>>
>>
>>Any decent Graphic-Arts store has "Drafting Tape". This is a form of masking
>>tape with a very low strength, low transferability adhesive. Draftsmen and
>>artists use this product to hold down paper and thin films to a table or easle.
>>Its great around the house for hanging things temporarily on painted walls and
>>furniture since it never leaves an adhesive residue. It is great to use on
>>Aircraft, especially if it is going to be exposed to heat or left on for a
>>while and later removed. I think it will hold down rivets for back-riveting
>>just fine. Check it out.
>>
>>Lou Willig
>>
>>
Did you know that 3-M makes a "riveting" tape? Available from
dealers who deal with distributors like Van Dusen, It's a tape with
just it's edges having adhesive, none in the middle. It's a clear
cellophane so one can see the rivets and since theres no adhesive to
gum them up, riveting means no clean up...
For tools and info on back reviting, get my tool list by sending email
to tools(at)pdsig.com a file will be returned automatically to you.
bj nash
Telephone Payment Clearings, Inc
Phone: 619 749 7049
Fax: 619 749 6384
BBS: 619 749 2741
Info-file: telpay(at)pdsig.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu> |
| Subject: | Control Surface TEs |
Mike, hi
I'm not so worried about water being trapped at the rudder trailing edge, as
much as the elevators. To prevent water buildup when parked on the ramp
which could freeze and unbalance the elevators, maybe it would be a good
idea to always tie the stick forward with a control lock. (This will also
make the airplane do a nice half loop when the tiedowns break on a windy
day). Someone also had the idea of using a 1/8" metal dowel sprayed with
silicone during the potting operation and then it could be removed leaving a
path for water to drain out. Small holes like that have a tendency to clog
up with dirt after a while, but it might be worth a try.
Phil
arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu
>I think putting the RTV specified in the plans should fix the problem very
>well. I put a glob of that in at each stiffner junction and can't squeeze
>any play in the TE with my hands. Feels pretty stable to me. I just
>forgot to leave a drain path down the TE so if water pools in there I'm
>going to be rebuilding a rudder someday...
>
>----------
>From: Greg Bordelon[SMTP:brokersys.com!greg(at)matronics.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 1996 10:48 AM
>To: 'RVLIST'
>Subject: RV-List: Control Surface TEs
>
>Hi Phil,
>
>
>The last row of stiffener rivets need to be within 3/4" (mine are more
>like
>5/8") of the trailing edges to help eliminate the cracking problem.
>------------------------
>
>What is you basis for this comment? My thinking is that the stiffner should
>extend as far back as possible and the closer the last rivet to the
>trailing edge the better. This will provide minimum flex area. I would
>define flex area as the distance from the last rivet to the trailing edge.
>I don't know any better. I am preparing to cut stiffners for my RV 6. You
>are slightly ahead of me. BTW, it seems everyone is slightly ahead of
>me........ ;^)
>
>Greg Bordelon
>greg(at)brokersys.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Built to a Question! |
Use 3-M removeable tape #911. It is the same as what some aircraft
suppliers call riverters tape. It is excellent for use. The tape is
translucent, so the rivets underneath can be seen easily. The same
strip can be used 2-4 times and never fails to come off very easily.
It is available in 1/2" and 3/4" widths. You can easily find the tape
at Office Depot, Office Max, or at any art or drafting store. It is
cheap tape.
Warren Gretz, Denver
RV-6 N25WG
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Built to a Question!
Date: 8/28/96 8:14 AM
>
><< A well known, and unnamed, local guru was teaching me how to rivet
> recently. Working on the VS spar, we used the only tape available from
> the local cook and storekeeper--discount brand clear tape. Riveting went
> fine, but boy does that tape LOVE the sherwin williams wash primer.
> Nothing will budge it! SInce it is so thin, and the glue is so good, I
> cannot get the stuff off. Acetone won't touch it.
------------------------------
3M makes a "General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner" Part No.08984. It is used
clean the stickum that builds up on the face of the sanding disk pad. The
kind of pad that you apply a glue stick to and then press on the sanding disk.
The cleaner may be found at paint stores that have a lot of commercial
accounts (in particular Auto Body shops). It will not mar properly aged
paint surfaces (caution - test a small are first). It will remove adhesive,
wax, tar, silicone, and oils.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder's Phone List |
Add to list:
Warren Gretz 303-770-3811 Heated Pitot Tube Mounting Brackets
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: RV Builder's Phone List
Date: 8/27/96 1:05 AM
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.561.emout12.mail.aol.com.841125339
Okay boys and girls. Attached is a .txt version of my first attempt at the
compleat and definitive reference for all green RV builders. Where to get
all those goodies that all the experienced builders already have loaded their
planes with?
Well, now you know! Some other places I am aware of, but I didn't have their
numbers. Feel free to add and repost or E-mail me directly and I will
consider a second edition at some future time.
I hope some of you find it useful.
Gary VanRemortel
Vanremog(at)aol.com
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.561.emout12.mail.aol.com.841125339
name="AV.TXT"
RV BUILDERS PHONE LIST
AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SPEC 800-824-1930 EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
AM-SAFE 602-233-2802 SAFETY HARNESSES
ANGEL FLIGHT 310-390-2958 MEDICAL TRANSPORT NETWORK
APM-HEXSEAL 201-569-5700 SEALING HEAD SCREWS
AUA 800-727-3823 INSURANCE
AVEMCO 800-276-5207 INSURANCE
AVERY ENTERPRISES 817-439-8400 SHEET METAL AND MISC PRODUCTS
AVIATION DEV CORP 206-546-3011 REMOTE OIL FILTER
BARRY CONTROLS 818-843-1000 ENGINE ISOLATOR MOUNTS
B&C SPECIALTY PRODUCTS 316-283-8000 ALTERNATORS/STARTERS AND ELEC
B&F AIRCRAFT SUPPLY 312-422-3220 AIRCRAFT BUILDING SUPPLIES
CARLINGSWITCH 800-243-8556 VARIOUS PANEL SWITCHES
CHIEF AIRCRAFT 800-447-3408 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
CLEAVELAND TOOLS 800-368-1922 AIRCRAFT TOOLS
E.A.R. COMPOSITES 317-692-1111 NOISE CONTROL PRODUCTS
EXP AIRCRAFT ASSN 414-426-4800 OUR GREAT ORGANIZATION
FAA AIRCRAFT REGISTRY 405-954-4206 REGISTRATION NUMBERS
FASTENING HDWR SUPPLY 716-681-1675 STAINLESS AND OTHER FASTENERS
GENUINE AIRCRAFT HDWR 805-239-3169 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS 800-423-2567 JUST TOOLS CHEAP
HOOKER HARNESS 815-233-5478 SAFETY HARNESSES
LANDOLL 405-392-3847 STARTERS, DAMPERS, ALTERNATORS
DJ LAURITSEN 515-432-6794 SEATS
MATRONICS 510-447-9886 SERVO SPEED CONTROL/FUEL GAUGES
MENZIMER AIRCRAFT COMP 619-598-0592 SERVOS AND STICK GRIPS
MIKE=92S AERO 707-965-2411 ENGINE SERVICE
NATIONAL HOSE 713-920-2030 AEROQUIP INDUSTRIAL HOSE
NAVAID 423-267-3311 TRACKING SINGLE AXIS AUTOPILOT
NORTHWEST AERO PRODUCTS 206-735-5022 AIRCRAFT HARDWARE
OIL ANALYSIS 918-492-5844 ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS KITS
OLANDER 408-735-1850 FASTENERS AND TOOLS
G&B ORNDORFF 817-439-3280 RV VIDEOS, SEATS AND MISC
JEFF POSCHWATTA 206-639-1212 MR. LYCOMING
PRECISION AIRMOTIVE 206-353-8181 OEM CARBURETORS
RADIO SYSTEMS ENG 916-272-2203 KIT AVIONICS
REED MFG 541-471-6289 BLADDER BUSTER RV WING TANKS
RICH INDUSTRIES 520-758-2777 STAINLESS FITTINGS
RICK ROBBINS 303-932-0561 HEAT MUFFS
RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING 503-681-0685 RV WING TIP LANDING LIGHTS
ROCKY MTN INSTRUMENT 307-864-9300 MICRO-ENCODER =
RV FLIGHT BAG 503-648-3464 RV PARAPHERNALIA
SACRAMENTO SKY RANCH 800-433-3564 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
SKYBOLT AIRMOTIVE 407-889-2613 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
SKY-TEC 800-476-7896 LIGHT WEIGHT STARTERS
SOUNDCOAT 516-242-2200 NOISE CONTROL PRODUCTS
TEMPERFOAM 402-470-2346 TEMPERFOAM
TEXTRON LYCOMING 717-327-7278 AIRCRAFT ENGINES
TPS AVIATION 510-475-1010 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
USHER INDUSTRIES 503-647-0015 RV FUEL CAPS
VAN'S AIRCRAFT 503-647-5117 RV KITS
VETTERMAN HIGH COUNTRY 303-932-0561 RV EXHAUST SYSTEMS
WHELEN ENG 203-526-9504 AIRCRAFT LIGHTING SYSTEMS
WICKS AIRCRAFT 800-221-9425 EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
WAG AERO 800-558-6868 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
=0D
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.561.emout12.mail.aol.com.841125339--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobh(at)synopsys.com (Bob Haan) |
| Subject: | Re: landing light systems |
>Can someone post addresses for Olds and BAC.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve
BAC =
Barnard Aircraft Components
Steve and Theresa Barnard
3327 Woodlane
Cameron Park, CA 95682
916-676-5601
Bob Haan
Portland, OR
RV6-A starting fuse
bobh(at)synopsys.com
Evenings 503-636-3550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobh(at)synopsys.com (Bob Haan) |
| Subject: | Re: BAC Address and Phone |
>Can someone post addresses for Olds and BAC.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve
BAC =
Barnard Aircraft Components
Steve and Theresa Barnard
3327 Woodlane
Cameron Park, CA 95682
916-676-5601
Bob Haan
Portland, OR
RV6-A starting fuse
bobh(at)synopsys.com
Evenings 503-636-3550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: Low-stick Tape |
>This message is in reference to those of you who have had trouble removing
>conventional adhesive tapes after riveting or other applications to aluminum
>or painted surfaces.
>
>
>Any decent Graphic-Arts store has "Drafting Tape". This is a form of masking
>tape with a very low strength, low transferability adhesive. Draftsmen and
>artists use this product to hold down paper and thin films to a table or easle.
>Its great around the house for hanging things temporarily on painted walls and
>furniture since it never leaves an adhesive residue. It is great to use on
>Aircraft, especially if it is going to be exposed to heat or left on for a
>while and later removed. I think it will hold down rivets for back-riveting
>just fine. Check it out.
>
>Lou Willig
Lou,
... this tape (looks like thick, white paper) is probably too
thick and/or too soft for back riveting. The easiest stuff to get is the
3M "Removeable Magic Tape" from your local stationary/drug store. This is
a thin Scotch tape with a 'low stick' adhesive, and it will survive the
high pressures of riveting. I use it for both flush and regular rivets.
For general masking tape use, I _only_ use "Long Life" masking tape
(the blue stuff). I can tape things in place on my RV, and it won't harden
or remove epoxy primer. I have tape pieces in place over 6 months in the
garage, and it's still easily removeable, whereas regular masking tape
would have hardened into a difficult to remove mess. Since it doesn't
harden, I use this blue masking tape for covering edges inside my fuselage
to try and keep the "scratch-n-ding" level down ... :^) ... especially
while installing/removing the rudder pedals and flap drive tube....
... hope this helps ... Gil (tape it up) Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
RV6A, #20701 ... just got ($$$$) Terra comm/transponder/encoder units
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low-stick Tape> & 3-M info |
BJ Nash wrote:
> Did you know that 3-M makes a "riveting" tape? Available from
> dealers who deal with distributors like Van Dusen, It's a tape with
> just it's edges having adhesive, none in the middle. It's a clear
> cellophane so one can see the rivets and since theres no adhesive to
> gum them up, riveting means no clean up...
Did you know that there's a low-tack magic tape? Same basic stuff as
the Scotch tape, but less adhesive. It's available from office supply,
comes in a blue box instead of the green, and is the same price. I
believe it's used for paste-up applications, so it is designed not to
leave a residue. I use it on my skins, and never have any problem with
leaving any on the metal or having enough adhesion to keep the rivets in
place.
PatK - RV-6A - Top left wing skins drilled and clecoed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <pilla(at)exit109.com> |
| Subject: | Ross PRSU For Sale |
Once again, Claudio Tonini has asked me to post an item for sale that
he thought might be of interest to RV builders.
Claudio is building an RV-3 to complement his beautifull RV-4. Claudio
has a Ross PRSU for sale, suitable for a Mazda 13B rotary engine.
The PRSU is still in the box and is available for $2,900 by contacting
Claudio, directly (I'm only his e-mail access :-)
Claudio can be reached at:
(day) 1-800-582-3125
(eve) 1-908-446-0280 (Purple Passion Hangar - leave message)
Mike Pilla
pilla(at)exit109.com
Mike Pilla
pilla(at)exit109.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Built to a Question! |
<< the local cook and storekeeper--discount brand clear tape. Riveting went
fine, but boy does that tape LOVE the sherwin williams wash primer.
Nothing will budge it! SInce it is so thin, and the glue is so good, I
cannot get the stuff off. Acetone won't touch it.
Any ideas?
>>
Yep. 1) leave it on. 2) Use electricians tape. It's cheaper and it works
great.
Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cecil Hatfield / Fourstar Printing <cecil(at)alto1.altonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low-stick Tape> & 3-M info |
BJ Nash wrote:
> Did you know that 3-M makes a "riveting" tape? Available from
> dealers who deal with distributors like Van Dusen, It's a tape with
> just it's edges having adhesive, none in the middle. It's a clear
> cellophane so one can see the rivets and since theres no adhesive to
> gum them up, riveting means no clean up...
I use regular old cheap electricans tape (the black stuff) and
can't be happier with the results. Rivets are nice, nice, nice.
-------------------------------------
Cecil Hatfield
cecil@altonet
RV-6A (wings)
Date: 08/28/96
Time: 17:11:21
You wrote:
Did you know that there's a low-tack magic tape? Same basic
stuff as
the Scotch tape, but less adhesive. It's available from office
supply,
comes in a blue box instead of the green, and is the same
price. I
believe it's used for paste-up applications, so it is designed
not to
leave a residue. I use it on my skins, and never have any
problem with
leaving any on the metal or having enough adhesion to keep the
rivets in
place.
PatK - RV-6A - Top left wing skins drilled and clecoed.
-------------------------------------
Cecil Hatfield
cecil@altonet
RV-6A (wings)
Date: 08/28/96
Time: 17:09:11
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: Primer/topcoat |
>> My experience: Since my quickbuild was primed at the factory with
>>S/W P60G I went out and bought some ($42/gal for paint, $23/gal for
>>reducer/catalyst). My thinking was that I'd get my parts to look just
>>like the ones from the factory. Silly me. Apparently there's a grey
>>colored version and a green colored version. My dealer only has the green
>>stuff, and can't even find mention of the grey stuff in the catalog
>>(although he's heard from his supplier that the grey stuff may exist). In
>>any case the factory primed structure is grey, and the stuff I primed is all
>>green. I now have a bunch of green colored parts that I primed with
>>primer that cost a lot more than I needed to spend.
>>
>>Capt Tim Lewis
>
>The grayish color is because Van's mixes 2 parts catalyst to 1 part
>primer. If you mix 1.5 to 1 the color is green. I know it sounds strange
>that such a small change in mixing ratios could cause a color change, but
>it does.
Perhaps it's all of the extra aluminum being etched away into the
paint?? .... :^) ... since the clear catalyst component could also be
called the "acid etchant" component.
This mixing ration does seem to violate rule number 1 ("Follow the
manufacturer's instructions"). Does S-W have any official comments on the
long term effects of this practise??
... just my thoughts ...
.... Gil (sticking with the MacDonald Douglas stuff) Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
RV6A, #20701 ... and mixing it right ... :^)
>
>The 2 to 1 mix is also easier to spray.
A good reason for more thinner/reducer, not for more acid.
>
>Bob Haan
>Portland, OR
>RV6-A starting fuse
>bobh(at)synopsys.com
>Evenings 503-636-3550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stereo/Mono headset jacks |
For consideration by the list:
I contacted the manufacturer of my intercom/audio panel (RST Engineering) for
his recommendation on the mic/phone jack isolation issue, and to get the
necessary fiber washers to float the grounds. His reply was "PLEASE don't do
that!"
What about ground loops, I asked, and hum and RFI?? "PLEASE, don't do that!"
came the reply again. If I have RFI, a small bypass cap at the jack is
suppposed to fix it, but no way did the designer condone the grounds of these
jacks being floated above the panel. I ran 22 ga shielded for all
interconnections. When I get all the wiring ready for smoke testing, I'll
advise the list if problems occur. ( I'll also advise RST.)
Just thought I'd put this out there for your consideration.
Bill Boyd
plumbing RV-6A brake lines
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
To clarify a few things about the relays;
the MAC trim motors are low-current units- 150 mA, I believe.
I protected all the relays in my homemade deck with diodes to clip the
induction spike that occurs when the coil is de-energized.
Hitting opposite trim will pop the breaker in my unit, allowing rapid
correction of runaway trim.
Anyone feeling better about all this yet??
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Just thought I'd jump in on the rivet tape discussion. I
finally settled for 2" wide clear packing tape from walmart.
Tear a piece off, fold over one end to make a tab and it
lasts forever and never leaves any residue.
BTW: I'd still like to visit a project in Birmingham AL next
week
chet
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals |
Am I missing something?? My 6A plans don't mention gap seals ( relying on
memory here- I did my wings and ailerons last year.) Has Van decided we
don't need air flowing over the top of the ailerons through the generous gap
he designed into the aileron/wing junction?
I supposed a gap seal might lower stall speed and increase cruise, but what
about aileron effectiveness? Boy, will I feel stupid if I was supposed to
seal those gaps!
Now for another question I was puzzling out tonight: any hints on where the
brake line elbow is supposed to be positioned on the side of the -6A fuselage
for connection to the tubing going down the front of the gear leg? The plans
on sheet 49 are "not to scale" and don't show much detail regarding inside
cockpit structure for reference, and the pix in the manual all show a -6
being outfitted, not a -6A. The best location I can come up with is just
ahead of the 602 (?) bulkhead, right below the point where the fuel tank vent
line penetrates the fuselage side. Am I right?
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail wheel Springs |
<< Subj: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Tail wheel Springs
Date: 96-08-23 14:06:55 EDT
From: edt.com!randall(at)matronics.com (Randall Henderson)
Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Jim Ayers, LOM powered RV-3, talking about his locking tailwheel
assembly with internal cables, said:
> I don't like changing what Van has designed.
What, did I miss a ";-)" here or is the sarcasm just so obvious it
goes without saying? :-)
> I have a full swiveling locking tail wheel without chains, springs, or
> external rudder horns.
I have some taildragger time, including around 30 in the RV-6, and have
never flown with a locking tailwheel, so I don't know really what it
buys you. On takeoff it seems to me about the only thing would be to
avoid the tendency to fishtail when you apply full power, but I don't
find that to be a problem if I apply power smoothly, and anyway the tail
can be brought up almost immediately in the RV. What about landing? Do
you keep it locked? I would think that would cause its own problems.
Maybe someone can enlighten me.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
>>
I was fortunate to have the opportunity to get a couple of my Bi-ennial
flight reviews in a Stinson Gullwing with the radial 300 Hp Lycoming. The
Stinson Gullwing has a full swivelling tail wheel that does not lock and is
not steerable.
When I was building my RV-3 from the plans, I also used everything else I had
learned from other aircraft, and other related mechanisms.
Rocky (Kent Rockwell, RV-3 N51RV) said it best, though. "Any change to Van's
design adds three months to the project."
I was not being sarcastic when I said I do not like making changes to Van's
design. In my opinion, Van has established the standard that the other kit
manufacturers can only hope to match. Van makes the effort to have his kits
understandable to everyone building them.
Everything I have done to "improve" my RV-3 has added time to the initial
construction, especially when you consider the time to create the
"improvement".
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: STTA: Balanced Wheel Pants |
<< Jim & fellow RVers,
I didn't balance my pants but I did think about doing it. I figured my
six weighed enough, already. I did put on the wood dampeners with
fiberglass wrap. Only occasionally do I get any shimmy and it doesn't last
long, nor is it very bad. I've been running 40 lbs in my tires. Anything
less, and it seems like the RV is really hard to move around on sod.
(stuff cut)
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
>>
A key item to remember here is that the "wheel shimmy" problem didn't show up
until the RV-3 was being flown from something other than a sod strip.
I would like to clarify one item here. Bob says, "I did put on the wood
dampeners with fiberglass wrap." The "wood dampeners" are actually "wood
stiffeners" which transmit the "wheel shimmy" vibration to the motor mount
and cause it to break. Fortunately, Van already fixed this "problem" with
the ADDITION of the two bolts to the firewall/carrythru structure to the main
spar. (I am suggesting that what was "added" to the RV-3, was "added" to the
rest of the RV design.)
Anyway, if someone would like to simplify their RV and potentually save
weight, balance the wheel pants and leave the "wood dampeners" off.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ccarpent(at)pressenter.com (Cliff Carpenter) |
| Subject: | Re: RMD wing tip landing lights |
>I'd like to hear other builders/flyers perspectives on the RMD landing lights.
> I'm interested in enclosing position, landing, strobe--how is this kit versus
>other solutions?
>
>Jon Scholl
>scholl.jon(at)bcg.com
Jon, I've had this system on my RV-4 for five years now (1255 hrs) and it
works like a champ! Also a strobe on the bottom rear of the rudder. Had to
decrease the spacing on the lens cover to 11/2-2inches to prevent any
warping . Mounting fixture was simple as I recall. No problems to date,also
no drag,highly recommended!!
Cliff Carpenter,N141CC,RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Bennett" <bennett(at)healey.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Bucking Bars |
I bought most of my tools from US Industrial. The bucking bars were
polished but all the faces were rounded so that unless you could
centre the rivet on the face it would clinch the rivets every which
way but straight. I had to linish the faces flat and repolish them.
I'm severely underwhelmed with the quality of my tools. I've since
bought everything from Avery and couldn't be happier.
Admittedly my experience is six years old but I'm not giving them
another chance.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 Fitting seats and electric flaps
> I'm finally getting ready to rivet the HS skin after I drill the last
> half of the skeleton and dimple everything. I used my pneumatic
> squeezer to rivet up the entire skeleton, and I'm finally getting ready
> to do some real riveting with the help of a local expert. I determined
> that none of the three bucking bars I had would do a proper job of
> bucking the rivets in the forward HS spar, and went searching. It
> turns out that U.S. Industrial has a set of 10 bucking bars (TP175)
> that looks like it has the right bar for just about anything. It's on
> sale right now for $110. Just thought I'd let fellow newcomers know.
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure |
>I think this is a common problem with the electric sending units. I had
the>same problem with my electric gauges from Vans. Mine started acting up
after>about 250 hours. I disassembled it and it is built like a
potentiometer, the>wiper is connected to a diaphragm. The wire wound
resistor gets dirty and>doesn't make good contact, which makes the
resistance go up and the pressure>gauge go down.
>
>Terry Dyer RV6A
>Terry
>
Terry; Thanks for the input, makes me feel a little better when I see it
occur. In other words, the pucker factor is a little subdued now. Thanks.
John D>
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: STTA: Balanced Wheel Pants |
>I would like to clarify one item here. Bob says, "I did put on the wood
>dampeners with fiberglass wrap." The "wood dampeners" are actually "wood
>stiffeners" which transmit the "wheel shimmy" vibration to the motor mount
>and cause it to break. Fortunately, Van already fixed this "problem" with
>the ADDITION of the two bolts to the firewall/carrythru structure to the main
>spar. (I am suggesting that what was "added" to the RV-3, was "added" to the
>rest of the RV design.)
>
>Anyway, if someone would like to simplify their RV and potentually save
>weight, balance the wheel pants and leave the "wood dampeners" off.
>
>Jim Ayers
>LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
>LesDrag(at)aol.com
>Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
Jim; Please help me out here. First, I don't know what you mean by
'balancing the wheel pants'. Is this weight from one pant to the one on the
other wheel, or is it something around the axle of the landing gear leg?
The other, in my construction manual (RV6), it talked about wheel shimmy as
a possible draw back to the Whitman type gear legs and one way to help
control the shimmy was to do the wood and fiberglass wrap, which I did. Now
this thing about the wood and fiberglass doing something to the motor mount
and causing it to break. Did I miss something in the news letters about
this? Am I flying along fat dumb and happy as my motor mounts are cracking
because of something I did to the gear legs?
I do not have a shimmy problem, have felt it only once during too fast taxi
on rutted gravel, so what ever I did, I lucked out. But the mount thing is
new to me.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ming Ho <mho(at)post.cis.smu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals |
Hello Bill,
> I supposed a gap seal might lower stall speed and increase cruise, but what
> about aileron effectiveness? Boy, will I feel stupid if I was supposed to
> seal those gaps!
I have sealed the flap and aileron gaps on the underside (higher pressure
below) using 3M's 471 tape and found a 3-5 mph increase in cruise speed.
However, please make sure that the tape does not interfere with the
operation of either flaps or aileron at ANY position. WRT the aileron
effectiveness, I have actually found the controls firmer.
Kind regards,
Ming
Glasair IIs N90SL (thinking about building a RV6 or 8 mode)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals |
<< Now for another question I was puzzling out tonight: any hints on where
the
brake line elbow is supposed to be positioned on the side of the -6A
fuselage
for connection to the tubing going down the front of the gear leg? The
plans
on sheet 49 are "not to scale" and don't show much detail regarding inside
cockpit structure for reference, and the pix in the manual all show a -6
being outfitted, not a -6A. The best location I can come up with is just
ahead of the 602 (?) bulkhead, right below the point where the fuel tank
vent
line penetrates the fuselage side. Am I right? >>
Bill-
Tom @ Vans told me to drill a hole about mid-span in the reinforcing plate
(6A only) just ahead of the boost pump on the port side (mirror the other
side) to pass these fittings. He said to drill out the plate to the diameter
of the fitting threadform and then drill a larger hole in the skin so you can
fit a socket wrench in to tighten the mounting nut. No problemo!
Gary VanRemortel
Vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Bucking Bars |
I had the same experience with the tools I purchased from U.S Industrial
when I started my project and purchased tools last year. They are
serviceable tools, but if you want to build a quality airplane you need
quality tools. I also agree with your comments about Avery. I would like to
add a plug here for Cleaveland Aircraft Tool. If anyone is making better
dimpling dies than Cleaveland I haven't seen them and I have gotten terrific
service from them.
Mike Wills
RV-4 Ser#4083 (my wing kit just arrived; inventorying parts)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
****************************************************************************
>I bought most of my tools from US Industrial. The bucking bars were
>polished but all the faces were rounded so that unless you could
>centre the rivet on the face it would clinch the rivets every which
>way but straight. I had to linish the faces flat and repolish them.
>
>I'm severely underwhelmed with the quality of my tools. I've since
>bought everything from Avery and couldn't be happier.
>
>Admittedly my experience is six years old but I'm not giving them
>another chance.
>
>Peter Bennett
>Sydney Australia
>RV6 Fitting seats and electric flaps
>
>> I'm finally getting ready to rivet the HS skin after I drill the last
>> half of the skeleton and dimple everything. I used my pneumatic
>> squeezer to rivet up the entire skeleton, and I'm finally getting ready
>> to do some real riveting with the help of a local expert. I determined
>> that none of the three bucking bars I had would do a proper job of
>> bucking the rivets in the forward HS spar, and went searching. It
>> turns out that U.S. Industrial has a set of 10 bucking bars (TP175)
>> that looks like it has the right bar for just about anything. It's on
>> sale right now for $110. Just thought I'd let fellow newcomers know.
>>
>> Steve Johnson
>> RV-8
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Builders Phone List Error |
From: aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 01:55:40 -0400
Subject: RV-List: RV Builder's Phone List
CLEAVELAND TOOLS 800-368-1922 AIRCRAFT TOOLS
I tried to call Cleaveland Tools at this number, but it is not
their number. It is for some trucking company, and they said they
wished that people would stop calling them looking for Cleaveland
Tools. Does anyone know the correct number for them? I'm trying to
get some info from them on their interiors.
Mark LaBoyteaux
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Standley <Gary_Standley(at)ccm.co.intel.com> |
Text item:
I BEGAN BUILDING MY RV4 IN 1981. THERE WAS NOT THE SUPPORT AVAILABLE THEN AS IT
IS NOW. I, TOO, BEGAN WITH TOOLS FROM THE LIKES OF U.S. INDUSTRIAL ETC.
QUALITY, SERVICE ETC NOT GOOD.
AS I'VE BEEN INVOLVED IN RV PROJECTS OVER THE YEARS I HAVE HAD THE BEST OF
SERVICE AND QUALITY WITH AVERY. WE HAVE A LOCAL TOOL AND DIE MAKER THAT MADE
HIS OWN DIES USING MY AVERY ONES FOR A PATTERN. NOW, THERE IS QUALITY BUT
BEYOND THE REALM OF MOST OF US. FOR CONSISTANT SUPPORT MY VOTE IS AVERY. WHEN
YOU FACTOR TIME SPENT LOOKING FOR PRICE ETC YOU PROBABLY DON'T GET ANY BETTER
DEAL ANYWHERE ELSE.
I had the same experience with the tools I purchased from U.S Industrial
when I started my project and purchased tools last year. They are
serviceable tools, but if you want to build a quality airplane you need
quality tools. I also agree with your comments about Avery. I would like to
add a plug here for Cleaveland Aircraft Tool. If anyone is making better
dimpling dies than Cleaveland I haven't seen them and I have gotten terrific
service from them.
Mike Wills
RV-4 Ser#4083 (my wing kit just arrived; inventorying parts)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
****************************************************************************
>I bought most of my tools from US Industrial. The bucking bars were
>polished but all the faces were rounded so that unless you could
>centre the rivet on the face it would clinch the rivets every which
>way but straight. I had to linish the faces flat and repolish them.
>
>I'm severely underwhelmed with the quality of my tools. I've since
>bought everything from Avery and couldn't be happier.
>
>Admittedly my experience is six years old but I'm not giving them
>another chance.
>
>Peter Bennett
>Sydney Australia
>RV6 Fitting seats and electric flaps
>
>> I'm finally getting ready to rivet the HS skin after I drill the last
>> half of the skeleton and dimple everything. I used my pneumatic
>> squeezer to rivet up the entire skeleton, and I'm finally getting ready
>> to do some real riveting with the help of a local expert. I determined
>> that none of the three bucking bars I had would do a proper job of
>> bucking the rivets in the forward HS spar, and went searching. It
>> turns out that U.S. Industrial has a set of 10 bucking bars (TP175)
>> that looks like it has the right bar for just about anything. It's on
>> sale right now for $110. Just thought I'd let fellow newcomers know.
>>
>> Steve Johnson
>> RV-8
>>
>>
>
>
Text item: External Message Header
The following mail header is for administrative use
and may be ignored unless there are problems.
***IF THERE ARE PROBLEMS SAVE THESE HEADERS***.
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bucking Bars
From: manta.nosc.mil!willsm(at)matronics.com (Mike Wills)
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 07:59:12 PDT
intel.com (8.7.4/8.7.3) with SMTP id JAA17827 for | Date: | Aug 29, 1996 |
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Phone List Error |
>From: aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 01:55:40 -0400
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV Builder's Phone List
>Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>CLEAVELAND TOOLS 800-368-1922 AIRCRAFT TOOLS
>
>
> I tried to call Cleaveland Tools at this number, but it is not
>their number. It is for some trucking company, and they said they
>wished that people would stop calling them looking for Cleaveland
>Tools. Does anyone know the correct number for them? I'm trying to
>get some info from them on their interiors.
>
> Mark LaBoyteaux
> tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
>
The number I have for Cleaveland Tools is 800-368-1822. Speaking of tools,
a place called "The Yard (800-888-8991)" just sent me a new Tatco squeezer,
with 1.5" & 3" yokes, for $150! What a deal.
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube installation |
I am glad to say that Tim Lewis has deceided to purchase the Pitot
Tube Mounting Bracket kit I sell, instead of building one himself.
I asked Tim if I could post this message and he agreed. He also
suggested the listing of his reasons for choosing my bracket kit. So
here goes.
1. The Gretz mount is adjustable: one can vary the angle of incidence
of the pitot tube if necessary.
2. The Gretz mount is lighter than the design I was considering - I
would have had the conformal (streamline) tubing running from the
pitot tube all the way up thru the wing through a mount on the lower
skin, and up to a mount plate at the top skin. The savings is probably
around 1/2 lb. Not much, but something .
Warren Gretz
RV-6 N25WG
3. The Gretz mount is chrome plated, which I think will look better
than a painted mast.
Thanks Tim for allowing me to make this post.
If any of you are interested in my mounting bracket kits, you may
contact me at: Warren Gretz, 3664 E. Lake Dr., Littleton, CO 80121 or
by phone at (303) 770-3811. If you would like to receive a flyer of
the bracket kits let me know and I will mail one to you. If you loose
this information, I am also listed in the back of Van's catalogue
under "Other Suppliers"
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube installation
Date: 8/24/96 7:48 AM
I'm thinking about how to install a pitot tube on my RV-6AQ wing. I
think I'll use the heated pitot tube with integral static source
(AN5814-12) that aircraft spruce sells. Warren Gretz sells a mounting
kit for $80-100, but I'm thinking of following Pat Kelly's lead and
building my own mount.
I assume best accuracy comes from orienting the pitot tube parallel to
the relative wind in cruise flight. I don't know how that relates to
the chord line of the wing (a few degrees difference, I assume). I'm
thinking of going for the simple approach and mounting the pitot tube
perpendicular to the main spar. Any insights into how much error that
will induce? Any recommendations or lessons learned from the group?
Thanks,
Capt Tim Lewis
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Phone List Error |
Cleaveland Tool 1-515-432-6794 no 800 number that I can see.
Ross
>From: aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 01:55:40 -0400
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV Builder's Phone List
>Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>CLEAVELAND TOOLS 800-368-1922 AIRCRAFT TOOLS
>
>
> I tried to call Cleaveland Tools at this number, but it is not
>their number. It is for some trucking company, and they said they
>wished that people would stop calling them looking for Cleaveland
>Tools. Does anyone know the correct number for them? I'm trying to
>get some info from them on their interiors.
>
> Mark LaBoyteaux
> tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Kassan" <SIKASSAN(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV Engine for Sale |
I just had to sell my RV4 kit #1602 but the buyer did not want my factory new
Lycoming 0320 D1A 160 HP Engine that I purchased from Vans. It is still in
the original box, never unpacked. Is there anyone interested in purchasing
it? I am thinking that 15,999.00 is a fair price. If any comments/interest
contact Steve Kassan at:
sikassan(at)msn.com or
(609)953-0736 or
105 Hickory Lane
Medford, NY 08055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rdunn(at)ionet.net (Ron Dunn) |
The last word I got from Van's last week was that -8 wing kits won't start
shipping until "the end of Sep". Anybody hear any different? They also
told me that my order was behind "30 to 40" others. Is it still
Phlogiston's spar making machinery that we're all waiting on?
In the meantime.......can anybody tell me the best stuff to fill the holes
of those dang pop-rivets that I had to use on the bottom rib of the rudder?
Thanks
Ron
Ron Dunn [RV-8 #80078] (HS,VS done)
rdunn(at)ionet.net
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
Fellow Listers:
Although it seems the RV List is mostly a builder's tip forum, I thought you
might find the following narrative of interest. It comes from the Summer
issue of the Chicago RVators' newsletter which is a fine looking
publication. Ernie Cleveland is organizing this effort and by the looks of
his first "new" newsletter he is making a great start. The story is
certainly food for thought and is a tale of superb airmanship by RV-4
builder Fred Meyer.
* * * * * * *
Down With the Birds by
Ernie Cleveland
Fred Meyer recently had a serious confrontation with another flying object.
Here it is in his own words:
"Yes sir, I put one right through the canopy. It was a dove. I was
indicating 200 mph at 100 feet above the runway having a great time here at
Casa de Aero.
"It happened so fast; no time for any evasive maneuvering; a close in
descending turn to final, wings level, when I saw a flash and ducked my
head. BOOM! -- closed the throttle -- cap and headset gone -- very loud
roar of air. Raybans are still on my face but full of body parts, blood,
and feathers, but my eyes are still OK. FLY THE AIRPLANE!! Boy, sure is
windy. Keeping head low to escape the air blast, check airspeed, sure did
slow down fast -- as I am slowing down I pat my head to see if I am intact.
I determine that my scalp and forehead are OK -- keep flying my injured
bird, 75-80 mph is slow enough; sure hope the canopy doesn't blow and hit
the vertical stab and jam the rudder. As I turn final and into the sun, I
drop the flaps full down and lean full over to the right side of the
cockpit. I have to pull my sunglasses down to see but the wind blast makes
seeing very difficult so I just peek over the tops of the glasses. My
landing was a nice three-pointer. I taxi up to the hangar, shut down, and
say a silent prayer of thanks. Wow, a direct hit; what a mess.
"I looked at myself in the bathroom mirror and looked a mess! Blood and
guts from my eyebrows to my chin. After I have cleaned up, much to my
surprise I have only one small cut on my chin, probably from plexiglas. My
sunglasses are bent but not broken.
"After I put the RV-4 back in the hangar I started to think of the
what-if's. What if I had not had glasses? Would I have been blinded by the
bird and crashed maybe into the houses? What if I had not been wearing a
cap? The cap was covered with blood and helped absorb some of the impact of
the bird and plexiglas. I was very lucky. So what did I learn?
"Now for something to think about: it might be a good idea to leave a pair
of glasses, or even a set of goggles, in your airplane. I wonder should our
canopies be thinker? But if they were would it be impossible to bust out if
we were upside down? My best advice is do not hit birdsin flight. Fly safely!
Thanks to Fred Meyer for the account of what could have been a tragedy. It
appears that the experience and discipline of 30,000 hours of flying paid
off. He is always one of those guys who is willing and anxious to share his
skill and knowledge.
* * * * * * *
The article from Ernie has two photos of a perfect 10" hole square in the
middle of the front canopy, right in front of Fred's nose!!
Doug
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <huffaker(at)utw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bucking Bars |
On Wed, 28 Aug 1996, Stephen Paul Johnson wrote:
> to do some real riveting with the help of a local expert. I determined
> that none of the three bucking bars I had would do a proper job of
> bucking the rivets in the forward HS spar, and went searching. It
> turns out that U.S. Industrial has a set of 10 bucking bars (TP175)
> that looks like it has the right bar for just about anything. It's on
> sale right now for $110. Just thought I'd let fellow newcomers know.
>
I'm not that much farther along, but I have only used two bucking bars
so far. Avery's #610 (almost rectangular) and an old car leaf spring
that I happened to have laying around (planed to make a knife out of it,
but never got it annealed enough to cut with a hacksaw). While both of
these are too light according to the books, I haven't had any problems.
Sure my work won't win any awards, but I don't think its the tools fault.
Why not try on a piece of scrap with what you got, and then if you like
the results, save the money.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (huffaker(at)utw.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
AW # 467 Biff Tarkiss
RV-8 80091 Priming rgt elev skel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: Stereo/Mono headset jacks |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>I contacted the manufacturer of my intercom/audio panel (RST Engineering) for
>his recommendation on the mic/phone jack isolation issue, and to get the
>necessary fiber washers to float the grounds. His reply was "PLEASE don't do
>that!"
On the other hand, PS Engineering is just as adamant about grounding only
one end. I guess the best thing to do is to follow your intercom
manufacturers advice.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DougPage(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV List is not coming through |
Dear Matt Have I somehow been deleted from the RV list? I have not
gotten any RV email for several days. Please put me back on. I am building
a 6A, and I am installing floors and controls in my fuselage. Thank you!
Doug Page
400 Arbol Via
Walnut Creek CA 94598 510-943-1581 dougpage(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wheel Pants Balancing |
Short History:
Because the RV-3 started out on grass runways, I will take a short trip to
our roots.
(I couldn't resist that pun.)
In the beginning, the RV-3 gear legs had a simple .016 sheet aluminum gear
leg fairing. This worked very well on grass strips.
However, when people started flying the RV-3 off of hard surfaces
(Bakersfield Bunch), a gear shimmy problem was noticed. Occasionally, the
upper horizontal gear leg tube on the motor mount would crack.
The original fix was to reduce the tire pressure to a low enough level that
the gear would not shimmy. But for some, this wasn't good enough.
The wood and fiberglass stiffener was added to the gear leg. And more
frequently, the upper horizontal gear leg tube on the motor mount would
crack.
One fix was to add a patch over the cracked area. Another fix was the use
of a heavier wall tube for the horizontal gear leg tube.
Van added the bolts at the top of the gear leg tube in the motor mount on the
RV-3 and RV-4. (I haven't looked at the later installation on the RV-6 and
RV-6A to see if the bolts are there, also. I assume they are. Or he could
have used a heavier wall tube.)
The combination of the wood and fiberglass gear leg stiffener and the bolts
to the
firewall compensated for the gear shimmy.
The T-18 uses the same gear leg design, but their wheel pant design is
balanced at the axle. I was told that a gear shimmy is unheard of on the
T-18.
An article in the RVator recommended balancing the wheel pant at about this
time.
Balancing:
I taped a sandwich bag to the front of the wheel pant, and added lead shot to
the bag until the wheel pant balanced at the outboard axle bolt hole.
I roughened the inside nose of the wheel pant to allow epoxy resin to bond.
I mixed a patch of epoxy resin with the lead shot, and poured this mixture
into the nose of the wheel pant.
It seemed to take about a quarter pound of lead shot for each wheel pant.
Bob Skinner is correct. If you already have the wood and fiberglass
stiffener installed on the gear leg, balancing the wheel pants isn't
necessary. It would be like wearing suspends and a belt.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A powered RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV PHONE LIST (REVISED) |
boundary="PART.BOUNDARY.0.508.emout19.mail.aol.com.841376826"
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.508.emout19.mail.aol.com.841376826
The attached phone list has been updated per your various inputs and yes I
missed the typo on Cleaveland's 800 number, Thanx.
Vanremog(at)aol.com
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.508.emout19.mail.aol.com.841376826
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--PART.BOUNDARY.0.508.emout19.mail.aol.com.841376826--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred New <fred(at)ics.ee> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Phone List Error |
On Thu, 29 Aug 1996, r.acker wrote:
> The number I have for Cleaveland Tools is 800-368-1822. Speaking of tool=
s,
> a place called "The Yard (800-888-8991)" just sent me a new Tatco squeeze=
r,
> with 1.5" & 3" yokes, for $150! What a deal.
I'm curious how many European tool vendors RV-listers have dealt with.
(I remember seeing a U.K. telephone number and address for Avery on the
list, but I'm sure someone will want to recommend them again.) Also,
it would be nice to see non-800 numbers for U.S. suppliers since they
don't work outside of the U.S. or Canada.
s-------------------------------------------------------------------------s
Fred New, Systems Administrator
IC Systems | Mustam=E4e tee 12 | EE0006 Tallinn | Eston=
ia
Internet--fred(at)ics.ee voice--(372) 656-5477 fax--(372) 656-5476
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy J. Etherington" <tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Clevland Phone number |
The number for Cleaveland Tools is 515/432-6794 or 1-800-3681822
Fax is 515/432-7804 and email at clevtool(at)tdsi.net
There service is good and there tools are excellent. E-mail response is not as
good as calling.
Tim Etherington, just started on an RV-6 tail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Re: RV PHONE LIST (REVISED) |
Please try to send this again.
Warren Gretz
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: RV PHONE LIST (REVISED)
Date: 8/29/96 11:55 PM
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.508.emout19.mail.aol.com.841376826
The attached phone list has been updated per your various inputs and yes I
missed the typo on Cleaveland's 800 number, Thanx.
Vanremog(at)aol.com
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.508.emout19.mail.aol.com.841376826
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TlJFTU9SVEVMAAAAAAAAAAAAANDPEeChsRrhAA==
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.508.emout19.mail.aol.com.841376826--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ted_boudreaux(at)om.cv.hp.com |
| Subject: | Franklin Engines? |
Has anyone out there (successfully) tried to install one of the
Franklin 6 cyl engines in a 6/6A? I wouldn't normally be considering
it, but they're just so cheap...
Ted Boudreaux
ted_boudreaux@hp-pcd.hp.com
RV6A 22435
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAllen6526(at)aol.com |
I just purchased and installed the AK-450 ELT into my airframe. I did this
based upon the recommendation of several of the avionics dealers at Oshkosh.
Most of the dealers had sold out of this ELT by the end of the show. The ELT
has voice capability. You provide the mic. It also comes with a remote
control that is mounted in the panel which notifies you when the ELT has been
activated, and allows you to test or reset it without needing access to the
ELT itself. One caveat is that this thing is not lightweight. You wouldn't
want to put it too far aft.
It comes with a mount which is suitable for mounting to a flat surface.
There is an aluminum strap which attaches the ELT to the mount. The box
must be mounted flat (lit's shaped like a small shoebox) and with its
longitudinal access with 10 degrees of the direction of flight. I found the
included aluminum strap to be inadequate. The hooks stretched open in a very
short period of time.
My installation was to place it under the baggage floor and to fabricate a
simple brackett which braces it between 2 adjoining ribs and also attaches to
the skin (attaching it to the skin alone is not recommended). The bracket is
made out of .063 and .025" aluminum angle. I will then either fabricate an
access plate in the baggage floor, or install the floor with platenuts.
The ELT comes with an external antenna with 6" of cable (BNC connectors), and
an optional telescoping antenna for handheld use. It also has a carrying
strap that I think I can use as a dog leash.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Bucking Bars |
> I'm not that much farther along, but I have only used two bucking bars
> so far.
[snip!]
> Why not try on a piece of scrap with what you got, and then if you like
> the results, save the money.
Wait till you get to the wings and fuselage, and you'll find out why
there are so many shapes of bucking bars in the catalogs. I have a
bunch of them (mostly from Boeing Surplus, $5 ea. :-) and I still run
into places where I think "if only I had a bucking bar just "this"
shape....
Which brings up a good point -- Boeing surplus (206-393-4060) often has
huge boxes full of bucking bars and rivet sets cheap (new and used), as
well as a lot of other stuff we use. If you get a chance to go there
you can save yourself some money. Locally (PDX) there is a surplus
store that has mostly junk but also has a source (probably Boeing) for
new surplus rivet gun sets, at $5 each. Check your local surplus stores
and you never know, you might find a some of this stuff.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants Balancing |
Thanks for the good history and discussion of wheel pant balancing and
gear shimmy, Jim. Several RV builders who added the wood stiffeners
have told me it lands a lot easier with than without, due to the fact
that the gear legs are stiffer and/or the springback is dampened. What
say you to this?
Also I am still curious about the pros and cons of a locking
tailwheel. Any wisdom there? Anyone?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Editor, Home Wing Newsletter
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV Builder's List (Revised US version) |
boundary="PART.BOUNDARY.0.27185.emout18.mail.aol.com.841422137"
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.27185.emout18.mail.aol.com.841422137
Here's another try at this.
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.27185.emout18.mail.aol.com.841422137
name="AV.TXT"
RV BUILDERS PHONE LIST (US VERSION)
AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SPEC 800-824-1930 EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
AIRCRAFT TOOL SUPPLY 800-248-0638 PLANE BUILDER'S TOOL KITS
AM-SAFE 602-233-2802 SAFETY HARNESSES
ANGEL FLIGHT 310-390-2958 MEDICAL TRANSPORT NETWORK
APM-HEXSEAL 201-569-5700 SEALING HEAD SCREWS
AUA 800-727-3823 INSURANCE
AUSTIN HARDWARE 800-648-1150 GLARESHIELD EDGING & MISC HDWR
AVEMCO 800-276-5207 INSURANCE
AVERY ENTERPRISES 817-439-8400 SHEET METAL AND MISC PRODUCTS
AVIATION DEV CORP 206-546-3011 REMOTE OIL FILTER
AVIATION PRODUCTS 805-646-6042 TAILWHEEL ASSYS
BARNARD AIRCRAFT COMP 916-676-5601 FAST BUILD RV WING KITS =
BARRY CONTROLS 818-843-1000 ENGINE ISOLATOR MOUNTS
B&C SPECIALTY PRODUCTS 316-283-8000 ALTERNATORS/STARTERS AND ELEC
B&F AIRCRAFT SUPPLY 312-422-3220 AIRCRAFT BUILDING SUPPLIES
BOEING SURPLUS 206-393-4060 SURPLUS AIRCRAFT TOOLS AND SUPPLI=
ES
CARLINGSWITCH 800-243-8556 VARIOUS PANEL SWITCHES
CHIEF AIRCRAFT 800-447-3408 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
CLEAVELAND TOOLS 800-368-1822 AIRCRAFT TOOLS
COPPER ISLAND AVIATION 604-675-4428 RV FLOAT KIT DEVELOPER
COURTAULD'S AEROSPACE 800-332-7686 PRIMERS, COATINGS, SEALANTS
DUCKWORKS (DON WENTZ) 503-543-2298 RV LANDING LIGHT KITS
E.A.R. COMPOSITES 317-692-1111 NOISE CONTROL PRODUCTS
EASY PUBLISHING 505-865-3466 16 YEARS OF THE RVATOR
ELECTRONICS INTL 503-628-9113 DIGITAL GAUGES
EXP AIRCRAFT ASSN 414-426-4800 OUR GREAT ORGANIZATION
FAA AIRCRAFT REGISTRY 405-954-4206 REGISTRATION NUMBERS
FASTENING HDWR SUPPLY 716-681-1675 STAINLESS AND OTHER FASTENERS
CARL FICH 360-699-1800 COMPLETED RV FUEL TANKS
GENUINE AIRCRAFT HDWR 805-239-3169 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
WARREN GRETZ 303-770-3811 HEATED PITOT TUBE MTG BRKTS
JOHN HAEHN 307-367-6522 RV4 SLIDING CANOPY KITS
HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS 800-423-2567 JUST TOOLS CHEAP
HOOKER HARNESS 815-233-5478 SAFETY HARNESSES
HORIZON INSTRUMENTS 800-541-8128 GRAPHIC INSTRUMENTS
J.P. INSTRUMENTS 714-557-5434 SMALL DIGITAL INSTRUMENTS
LANDOLL 405-392-3847 STARTERS, DAMPERS, ALTERNATORS
BUZZ AND DJ LAURITSEN 515-432-6794 SEATS
MATRONICS 510-447-9886 SERVO SPEED CONTROL/FUEL GAUGES
MENZIMER AIRCRAFT COMP 619-598-0592 SERVOS AND STICK GRIPS
MIKE'S AERO 707-965-2411 ENGINE SERVICE
NATIONAL HOSE 713-920-2030 AEROQUIP INDUSTRIAL HOSE
NAVAID 423-267-3311 TRACKING SINGLE AXIS AUTOPILOT
NORTHWEST AERO PRODUCTS 206-735-5022 AIRCRAFT HARDWARE
OIL ANALYSIS 918-492-5844 ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS KITS
OLANDER 408-735-1850 FASTENERS AND TOOLS
OLDS ENTERPRISES 501-965-7835 RV LANDING LIGHT KITS
G&B ORNDORFF 817-439-3280 RV VIDEOS, SEATS AND MISC
JEFF POSCHWATTA 206-639-1212 MR. LYCOMING
PRECISION AIRMOTIVE 206-353-8181 OEM CARBURETORS
RADIO SYSTEMS ENG 916-272-2203 KIT AVIONICS
REED MFG 541-471-6289 BLADDER BUSTER RV WING TANKS
RICH INDUSTRIES 520-758-2777 STAINLESS FITTINGS
RICK ROBBINS 303-932-0561 HEAT MUFFS
RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING 503-681-0685 RV WING TIP LANDING LIGHTS
ROCKY MTN INSTRUMENT 307-864-9300 MICRO-ENCODER =
RV FLIGHT BAG 503-648-3464 RV PARAPHERNALIA
SACRAMENTO SKY RANCH 800-433-3564 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
SKYBOLT AIRMOTIVE 407-889-2613 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
SKYLINE AVIATION 800-535-8640 RV ROLLING TOWBARS
SKYSPORTS INTL 800-247-7883 INSTRUMENTS, CAPACITANCE FUEL GAU=
GES
SKY-TEC 800-476-7896 LIGHT WEIGHT STARTERS
SOUNDCOAT 516-242-2200 NOISE CONTROL PRODUCTS
DOUG STENGER 503-324-6993 RV SUBASSY BUILDER
TEMPERFOAM 402-470-2346 TEMPERFOAM
TEXTRON LYCOMING 717-327-7278 AIRCRAFT ENGINES
TPS AVIATION 510-475-1010 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
USHER INDUSTRIES 503-647-0015 RV FUEL CAPS
U.S. TOOL 313-455-3388 BUILDER'S TOOL KITS
VAN'S AIRCRAFT 503-647-5117 RV KITS
VARGA ENTERPRISES 800-966-6936 CUSTOM FUEL AND OIL HOSES
VETTERMAN HIGH COUNTRY 303-932-0561 RV EXHAUST SYSTEMS
VISION MICROSYSTEMS 360-398-1833 DIGITAL ENGINE MONITORS
WHELEN ENG 203-526-9504 AIRCRAFT LIGHTING SYSTEMS
WICKS AIRCRAFT 800-221-9425 EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
WAG AERO 800-558-6868 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
THE YARD 800-888-8991 TOOLS
=0D
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.27185.emout18.mail.aol.com.841422137--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BestBillO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Navaid devices wingleveler |
Thought you all would like an interim report on this new autopilot. After
the first servo burned up on power-up, the new one, once re-installed, seems
to work beautifully (for a wing leveler.) Hooking it up to GPS and VOR now,
since the capability is there. Will advise further. Breakout force is
appropriate, and overall seems well suited to the RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
I just got my order form yesterday. I think the wing kits are being
produced a couple per day and if you've finished your emp already call vans
and ask to be put on the list (have you made your deposit yet?)
-Mike
----------
From: ionet.net!rdunn(at)matronics.com[SMTP:ionet.net!rdunn(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 1996 7:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Wings
The last word I got from Van's last week was that -8 wing kits won't start
shipping until "the end of Sep". Anybody hear any different? They also
told me that my order was behind "30 to 40" others. Is it still
Phlogiston's spar making machinery that we're all waiting on?
In the meantime.......can anybody tell me the best stuff to fill the holes
of those dang pop-rivets that I had to use on the bottom rib of the
rudder?
Thanks
Ron
Ron Dunn [RV-8 #80078] (HS,VS done)
rdunn(at)ionet.net
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Air compressors, again |
Fellow Listers:
I know this was beat to death several months ago, but I have a short memory.
I have one of those infernal oilless air compressors that makes more noise
than a 727 on a hot day. I am remodeling my garage/shop and plan to enclose
this beast under a workbench (8 ft x 28 in). I believe someone previously
mentioned such a project and lined the enclosure with sound deadening
material. Was this anything specific or was just plain insulation used?
Was it effective?
As always your assistance is appreciate.
Doug
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
In the meantime.......can anybody tell me the best stuff to fill the holes
of those dang pop-rivets that I had to use on the bottom rib of the rudder?
Thanks
Ron Dunn [RV-8 #80078] (HS,VS done)
rdunn(at)ionet.net
Broken Arrow, OK
I use latex sealant from Home Depo for filling small holes and sealing
gaps. Latex sealant not Silicone sealant. Apply the Latex sealant into the
hole and wipe of any excess with a damp finger or cloth. I also use it to
seal around the canopy as well. Latex is paintable.........
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Mike Wilson <James_Mike_Wilson(at)ccm2.hf.intel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Franklin Engines? |
Text item:
I met someone with the Franklin in a 172 and he loved it. Smooth Power.
Do you have any specs on the Franklin. i.e. dimensions, weight, power?
MikeW
RV4 Portland
Has anyone out there (successfully) tried to install one of the
Franklin 6 cyl engines in a 6/6A? I wouldn't normally be considering
it, but they're just so cheap...
Ted Boudreaux
ted_boudreaux@hp-pcd.hp.com
RV6A 22435
Text item: External Message Header
The following mail header is for administrative use
and may be ignored unless there are problems.
***IF THERE ARE PROBLEMS SAVE THESE HEADERS***.
Subject: RV-List: Franklin Engines?
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 08:06:06 -0700
From: om.cv.hp.com!ted_boudreaux(at)matronics.com
intel.com (8.7.4/8.7.3) with SMTP id JAA21473 for | From: | AKPRLN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV PHONE LIST (REVISED) |
I recently joined the RV list. I have a friend who is going to be building
an RV (either 6 or 6A) and I am trying to help him locate information. I
received the phone list. However, try as I could, I could not find anything
I had to open it. I am on a MAC. Any help?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 0-360-A2G or 0-360-A1F? |
I have a line on two engines, but on each there is a question.
On the A2G, will this fit in a standard RV-6A cowl? According to the Lycoming
book it has a horizontal carburetor and induction housing.
The other engine available is an A1F. Both this and the A2G supposedly have
-1200 series mags. Is this the same single shaft mag setup as on the 0-320
H2AD? Has anyone ever heard of a shaft failure on one of these systems which
caused both mags to go out at once?
Any other comments on these engine types?
Andy Gold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD wing tip landing lights |
At 12:06 PM 8/27/96 U, you wrote:
>I'd like to hear other builders/flyers perspectives on the RMD landing lights.
> I'm interested in enclosing position, landing, strobe--how is this kit versus
>other solutions?
>
>Jon Scholl
>scholl.jon(at)bcg.com
>
Jon: I don't have them up and running yet but when I got them in the mail,
my first response was: "Wow, this is how I would have made them
myself...0nly maybe better." They are a good unit and should work well. He
has several STCs for production aircraft. All the units I have seen
installed look good.
Michael
RV-4 232SQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jperri(at)interserv.com |
What does the group think about wheel landing an RV-6. I have a friend that
asked me to post this for him. I have been very successful using three points
even in heavy cross winds. Just want another point-of-view.
JMP RV-6 N345JE 450 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressors, again |
>I have one of those infernal oilless air compressors....
Oh, dear, here we go again.
Doug:
I have one of the noisy beasts and long ago put it under my furtherest away
work bench with nothing more than the top of one of the Van's shipping
crates in front of it. Yes, it is still somewhat loud but cheap, adequate,
keeps the mice away and I've had the thing for 6 years without problems. A
rivet gun is loud; I'm not going to wrap it in a rag to quiet it down.
While working I rarely notice it go on unless I am standing right in front
of it. It is just another shop niose.
Michael
RV-4 232SQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel landings |
>What does the group think about wheel landing an RV-6. I have a friend that
>asked me to post this for him. I have been very successful using three points
>even in heavy cross winds. Just want another point-of-view.
>
>JMP RV-6 N345JE 450 hrs.
JMP,
I generally make wheel landings. In Nebraska, we seem to have a lot of
gusty crosswinds that change direction 20-30 degrees. I figure that I need
to keep in practice. I just seem to get along better making wheel landings.
I'd do more three point if we had a cross wind runway. Also, it's my belief
(non-scientific) that the Aviation Products tailwheel sets the tail up a
little higher making 3 pointers more difficult. Also, I wear progressive
lens glasses and when I flare for a three point, I end up loosing focus as
the nose comes up and I end up looking out of the bottom of my glasses.
Bob Skinner RV-6 300 hours BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid devices wingleveler |
aol.com!BestBillO(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Thought you all would like an interim report on this new autopilot. After
> the first servo burned up on power-up, the new one, once re-installed, seems
> to work beautifully (for a wing leveler.) Hooking it up to GPS and VOR now,
> since the capability is there. Will advise further. Breakout force is
> appropriate, and overall seems well suited to the RV-6A.
Not sure what you mean by this new autopilot, Navaid has been
around for quite a few years and yes it works great in a RV-6
I like mine alot. I have it hooked up to my GPS (FLYBUDDY), you
do have be pretty much on course when you switch it to track mode
from wing leveler mode to get it to lock on to the GPS at least
on my setup, but once locked on it will take me right to the
waypoint hands off. I would like to see them come up with a
altitude hold that would be compatible with the wing leveler.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) (Hillsboro,
OR)
jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Smiths <kpsmith(at)cnsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built to a Question!] |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------640840867D28
LS0gDQrQzxHgobEa4Q0K
--------------640840867D28
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 22:17:55 -0700
From: The Smiths <kpsmith(at)cnsnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Built to a Question!
>Try WD-40. I have used it to remove tape and other gum and glued stuff,=
it may work.
It didn't. But nature has a way of solving all. Incidentally, the best=20
advice was to leave the very stuck tape onn as it was out of sight=20
anyway.
I found most all the ways to screw up a part:
1. Don't read ahead. THe VS requires dimpling and countersinking for=20
all rivets in the bottom third. All includes the hinge brackets, which=20
the instructions don't (but the plans do) mention when they say to rivet=20
the parts together. Once rieeted, one has lots of work to unrivet to=20
countersink and dimple the last seven rivets in the brackets.
2. Use the wrong parts. Using hinge bracket fro the HS is not a good=20
idea on the VS, even before riveting. The holes don't match. (They=20
might on the pre-everything kits)
3. Omit the wrong holes. On the lower VS bracket, two of six holes for=20
rivets were omitted to be drilled when mounting to the fuse. These are=20
the outer holes, furthest from the bend. Ooops.
Like the FAA says, this IS an educational experience. Stuck tape was=20
the least of my worries. =20
Countersinking through the spar or installing a backing plate were=20
considered and rejected in favor of some new Vans parts...
Ken Smith STILL on empanage skeletons, that little old eight hour=20
chore RV6
--=20
=D0=CF=11=E0=A1=B1=1A=E1
--------------640840867D28--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Would like some RV-6 Info |
Hello! Joined the list recently. A friend is looking to build the RV-6
(unless he changes his mind back to the 6A again!) So I'm doing the internet
research. I have some questions that I'd love to get some answers to. (If my
wording is wrong, I'm sorry. Don't always understand everything he's talking
about.) Please Email me so I don't clog everyones mail box.
My friend is an A&P, and a director of maint for an airline. Has extensive
knowledge, just has never built a full kit plane. (Rebuilt a C310. Tore it
completely down, except for removing the wings.) Would like some build times
(man hours) on the individual sections from people who had previous
experience working on aircraft.
Also:
1. Is there a fast build kit?
2. Have all the kits come predrilled, and if not any idea when they started
predrilling? (In case he buys someones unbuilt kit.)
3. How hard are the jigs to build? (Manhours?)
4. Looking for crating/shipping costs...
a. Empennage
b. Wings
c. Fuselage
d. Finishing kit
5. How have the prices been as far as buying the wing kit working it, then 6
mos later buying the fuselage kit? Been going up, staying stable?
6. What is the finishing kit?
Email address: akprln(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HowardRV(at)aol.com |
I need the torque values for the harware we use in our "birds".
Thanks
Howard Kidwell
Howardrv(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HBenjamin(at)gnn.com (Harold Benjamin) |
| Subject: | Re: Primer/topcoat |
Bob,
I was told to go with 2:1 mix by Van's. Being one of those
"Oh soooooo trusting fellows" I "Asked Sherwin Williams."
SW said that it wouldn't hurt anything. I'm quite happy with the
stuff so far...Looks nice & stays put.
Hal
Hal Benjamin
HBenjamin(at)gnn.com
RV-4 Working on the Grayish Green Wings
Tallahassee FL
>>The grayish color is because Van's mixes 2 parts catalyst to 1
part
>>primer. If you mix 1.5 to 1 the color is green. I know it
sounds strange
>>that such a small change in mixing ratios could cause a color
change, but
>>it does.
>
> Perhaps it's all of the extra aluminum being etched away
into the
>paint?? .... :^) ... since the clear catalyst component could also
be
>called the "acid etchant" component.
>
> This mixing ration does seem to violate rule number 1
("Follow the
>manufacturer's instructions"). Does S-W have any official
comments on the
>long term effects of this practise??
>
> ... just my thoughts ...
>
> .... Gil (sticking with the MacDonald Douglas stuff)
Alexander
>
>gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>RV6A, #20701 ... and mixing it right ... :^)
>
>
>>
>>The 2 to 1 mix is also easier to spray.
>
> A good reason for more thinner/reducer, not for more acid.
>
>>
>>Bob Haan
>>Portland, OR
>>RV6-A starting fuse
>>bobh(at)synopsys.com
>>Evenings 503-636-3550
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mailman(at)baldcom.net |
| Subject: | is this list working |
is this list working? have no mail for a week now???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Values |
(This is GV on soapbox)
All you builders asking such basic questions as this, please save us all some
bandwidth in posting/reposting this stuff and buy a copy of the bible of
aircraft maintenance, AC 43.13-1A (includes AC 43.13-2A) for $14 (cheap) from
Averys. For their phone number refer to the RV builders' Yeller Pages. This
manual has much of what you need to know in the way of construction methods
and systems requirements so that you can build and maintain a safe bird.
Yes, we're amateurs (we do it for the love of it) but we don't have to be
ill-informed. Once you have some of the knowledge contained in this manual,
and the Tony Bingelis books, packed away in your gray matter along with your
own good sense and some critical thinking skills, you can amaze and impress
your friends, just as the more knowledgable "RV gods" on this list. You can
impress them further by building a safe airplane.
I now relinquish the soap box,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
You wrote:
>
> Down With the Birds by
>Ernie Cleveland
>
>Fred Meyer recently had a serious confrontation with another flying object.
>Here it is in his own words:
>
>"Yes sir, I put one right through the canopy. It was a dove. I was
>indicating 200 mph at 100 feet above the runway having a great time here at
>Casa de Aero.
>
>"It happened so fast; no time for any evasive maneuvering; a close in
>descending turn to final, wings level, when I saw a flash and ducked my
>head. BOOM! -- closed the throttle -- cap and headset gone -- very loud
>roar of air.
I get this newsletter and read this too and would be interested in speaking
with Fred. I suspect that something got lost in the translation. This says
Fred was in a close-in turn to final at 100 feet off the ground doing 200
miles per hour. Also Fred is a very high-time accomplished pilot. Sounds to
me like he has the mother of all drag chutes on his plane or he wasn't too
serious about landing. Or am I missing something?
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <74774.54(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: is this list working |
Maybe it was something you said :)
Just kidding... you're coming throu 5 x 5
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | Re: wheel landings |
I'll bet this subject will get lots of opinions: here's mine.
This is a general response re: landing any taildragger (except Beech
18, DC-3 and a very few others). The dangerous time in a taildragger
is when the aircraft has slowed below the speed where the rudder is
effective (and when the nose is high enough to blind you). When you
do a wheel landing, you must still cross this twilight zone of speed
as you let the tail down and decelerate. For light aircraft, three
point landings cut one step out of the process (and as a bonus make
bounces less exciting). Properly executed three point landings will
handle any cross-wind a wheel landing will.
I know everyone will agree with me.
George Kilishek
RV8 #80006. Waiting for wing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
My answer from Barbara at Vans last week was "...mid September.
(pause)...at the earliest." She says the problem is a backup at
Phlogiston, but the letter that came with my order acknowledgement
said something about having to double check everything on the
Phlogiston spar to make sure it's okay.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: wheel landings |
>What does the group think about wheel landing an RV-6. I have a friend that
>asked me to post this for him. I have been very successful using three points
>even in heavy cross winds. Just want another point-of-view.
Since my RV-6 is still under construction, I can't speak from the
perspective of having done wheel landings in an RV-6. As a tailwheel
pilot, I *can* say a few things about wheel landings in general.
As for crosswind component, I can wheel-land a 7DC Champ in a gusting
crosswind that (at least in my opinion) I could not do a successful 3-point
landing.
There has always been a lot of controversy concerning wheel landings in an
RV-6 because of prop clearance. HOwever, if you can list the tail off the
gropund on the takeoff roll, then you should be able to wheel land an RV-6.
There is one area where you might get into trouble though: To make a
really nice wheel landing, you need to have the sink rate be almost zero
when you touch down. IF not, then the tail will want to keep descending
when the mains touch, the angle of attack goes up and so does the airplane.
The common antidote is to apply some forward pressure the instant the
mains touch, reducing the angle of attack.
So -- if you had a high sink rate when you touched down, and applied a lot
of forward stick to counter it, the gear might flex quite a bit -- enough
for a prop strike maybe. This is the sort of botched wheel landing the old
7DC CHamp handles no problem. A CEssna 140 with spring steel gear would
not let you off so lightly, though.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Values |
Howardrv(at)aol.com wrote:
>I need the torque values for the harware we use in our "birds".
You need to obtain a copy of AC43-13. It not only has the the torque
values you are looking for (the table of torque values is reproduced in the
beginning of the Construction Manual, bu the way.), it is a document that
every homebuilder should own. We may be building experimental aircraft,
but we must still use "Acceptable materials and practices", and that's what
AC43-13 defines.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | circuit breakers |
Can anyone advise me regarding circuit breakers for an RV-6. I would like a
rough idea of how many and what amperage I might need for a basic panel with
landing lights and strobes. I realize this is a pretty vague question but I
have just started the wing and haven't given electrics much thought at this
point in time. The circuit breakers are Klixon brand and are free, hence
the sudden interest. Are Klixon's okay?
rvav8er(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: circuit breakers |
>Can anyone advise me regarding circuit breakers for an RV-6. I would like a
>rough idea of how many and what amperage I might need for a basic panel with
>landing lights and strobes. I realize this is a pretty vague question but I
>have just started the wing and haven't given electrics much thought at this
>point in time. The circuit breakers are Klixon brand and are free, hence
>the sudden interest. Are Klixon's okay?
>
>rvav8er(at)aol.com
Dear ?, I highly recommend Bob Nucholl's AeroElectric Connection. It's
chock full of electrical knowledge. One of his ideas that I think has merit
is the use of blade type fuses in a fuse block. They're cheap, very light
and make wiring much easier. I figured that I would have saved around $400+
on my RV panel had I used this idea and made my life a lot easier. Bob
Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
(Attn newbies. Please sign your posts and add your E-mail address. Thanks.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
ORDER ACKNOWLEDGEMENT! WHAT'S THAT? I never receive oreder
acknowledgements from Van's. They received my RV-8 wing order on August
12th, the only way I knew this was to call. They don't seem to keep up on
their paper work. I never did receive notice that the RV-8 empanage was
available. I was on their list and wouldn't have known if it wasn't for
this list.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
>My answer from Barbara at Vans last week was "...mid September.
>(pause)...at the earliest." She says the problem is a backup at
>Phlogiston, but the letter that came with my order acknowledgement
>said something about having to double check everything on the
>Phlogiston spar to make sure it's okay.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <kevinlane(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | new non-certified Lycomings |
Someone at "the" fly-in(Van's) was telling me he spoke with a Lycoming
rep at Oshkosh about how Superior was going to start producing engine
casings and everything necessary to assemble a non-certified O-320/360
from parts at supposedly a far less price than the certified assembled
one. Is there any truth to this? He thought delivery might be late fall
96 or spring 97. Hey, just thought I might need more to do plus a chance
buy more tools!! Remember those ads for Jeeps packed in crates for $50?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <kevinlane(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | deburring dimples? |
the Standard Aircraft book which Van's sells over the counter states on
page 54 " Deburring shall not be performed on predrilled holes that are
to be subsequently form countersunk." The next paragraph defines form
countersunk as dimpled. On page 59 under "Hole Preparation for Form
Countersinking" it states, "Do not burr(sp?) holes to be form
countersunk, except on titanium." This could be quite a time saver,
perhaps even push the 51% limit, huh? It doesn't just state that
deburring isn't necessary, it says DON'T. Of course I can't find anyone
here who builds this way, but was curious what some of the countersunk,
knife-edge rivet radicals felt about the undeburred? Page 58 also
mentions that modifies radius dimpled parts can't be nested. This would
create quite a few problems with the skin/rib connections if followed.
Maybe if we switched to titanium...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allan W. Mojzisik" <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Air compressors, again |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB9808.28CE7540
Doug,
Some of the best sound deadening material for this use is certain kinds =
of ceiling tile.(The ones with holes in them and some others) I was once =
in a mkting focus group on these designs and know that sound deadening =
is one of their design attributes. If you can find some old 2' x 4' =
panels and stack them two or three deep you probably will hardly hear =
the compressor. Leave some space at the bottom rear for intake and =
cooling air and you can almost make that sucker disappear! Hope this =
helps Al (Very tired after a 760 mile drive home last night to pick =
up my wing kit) prober(at)iwaynet.net
----------
From: Doug Weiler[SMTP:mail.pressenter.com!dougweil(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Friday, August 30, 1996 4:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Air compressors, again
Fellow Listers:
I know this was beat to death several months ago, but I have a short =
memory.
I have one of those infernal oilless air compressors that makes more =
noise
than a 727 on a hot day. I am remodeling my garage/shop and plan to =
enclose
this beast under a workbench (8 ft x 28 in). I believe someone =
previously
mentioned such a project and lined the enclosure with sound deadening
material. Was this anything specific or was just plain insulation used?
Was it effective? =20
As always your assistance is appreciate.
Doug
-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=
=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D=
-=3D
=3D Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, =
N722DW
=3D 347 Krattley Lane
=3D Hudson, WI 54016
=3D 715-386-1239
=3D email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=
=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D=
-=3D
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB9808.28CE7540
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ADYAAAAAAEAAOQDAfawZJJi7AR4AcAABAAAAJAAAAFJFOiBSVi1MaXN0OiBBaXIgY29tcHJlc3Nv
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AFNNVFAAAAAAHgAfDAEAAAATAAAAcHJvYmVyQGl3YXluZXQubmV0AAADAAYQbbmBjAMABxBGBQAA
August 21, 1996 - September 01, 1996
RV-Archive.digest.vol-bu