RV-Archive.digest.vol-cj
January 15, 1997 - January 24, 1997
What they don't know won't hurt em..... I don't know why so many people just
want to throw money at them instead of their project!!!!! Buy instruments
instead of taxes. Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun room effect |
Personally, after a lot of sailplane flying in the desert (read
>EXTREME sunroom) my solution is a tinted canopy to start with, followed
>by a white hat and shirt. I use a 'slap-on' sunshade for those times
>when I fly facing into the sun, etc.
You can buy two large pieces of slap-on sun screen for about $1.75 from
K-Mart (in the baby department).It is the same stuff you can buy from pilot
shops for $7 - $8.00 for a 6"x9" piece.
I bought a set for my van and one for my Grumman Cougar. They are a life
saver flying to and from Baja with the sun streaming in one or the other
side windows. The pieces are big enough to cover the entire window and it
is transparent enough to see through. I gave a set to a friend who has a 6A
(he built two over about a three year period). It is probably enough to
cover the entire "green house"
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ahefley(at)zapcom.net (Andy Hefley) |
>
>Any thoughts on insurance coverage for an RV6 both during construction and
>once completed? Would any of you recommend a particular insurance company? I
>have talked to Avemco, are there any others that will cover a kitplane?
>
I have Amemco Form My RV6 that is under construction. I f you follow certain
rules seup by the EAA they will Also insure from 0 time. I don't know of
anyone else that will.
Andy Hefley
Willits, CA,,,>
>
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>
> Thanks
>in advance,
>
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> Rob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
For sun shade in my six, I bought a roll of "static cling" sun shade at
WallMart for around 10 bucks, or so. I've cut a couple of panels for right
above the pilots and passengers heads and a smaller one, about seven inches
square--my mobile shade--that I can move around where needed.
Other good uses for this material are to seal over the gas caps to keep
moisture out and a strip can be used to seal the canopy (if you don't have a
canopy cover.) You can also use it to seal your NACA vents.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TESTPYLOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sun room effect |
Hi Scott
Good points- for me it is more of a direct son broblem then heat. I get
plenty of ventilation. Inside temp once airborne is't much of a problem
either. I know of quite a few materials I would have liked to use but the
time and cost where issues. I have the glass panels on the inside. Thanks
for the input.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Dick,
You can drill the corner holes and/or a series of connecting holes and use
either a nibbler, hacksaw, or cut-off wheel to cut out the center, depending
on whether they are round or straight sided.
Les Williams
RV-6AQBME #60027 (tip-up), my empennage done, working on wings
RV-6A #20299, completed 4/92, sold 10/95, 350 great hrs
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!RFlunker(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 1997 6:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Access Hole
I need some suggestions from you builders-
I'm working on a 6A fuse, and am at the point where I need to cut the access
holes in the aft side skins. I'm curious as to what tips/techniques you
builders might have as to how to go about doing this. I suppose I could ask
a couple of neighbors to help hold the skin so I can use the fly cutter on
the drill press, but I'm thinking there has to be a better way. Thanks in
advance..
Dick Flunker (RFLUNKER(at)AOL.COM)
N326DB, res
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim - Help |
Dave Barnhart wrote:
>
>
> rdunn(at)ionet.net (Ron Dunn) wrote:
>
> >So, I bought the electric aileron trim option for my RV-8 wing kit. After
> >examining the parts and drawing, I am not impressed.
>
> Your sentiments echo mine for the RV-6 electric aileron trim. I bought it.
> I looked at it. I didn't like the tab hanging off the back of the
> aileron. I didn't like the added weight. MOst of all, I didn't like the
> way the aileron servo mounted.
>
> The manual aileron trim, on the other hand, is light and simple. I
> subsequently bought it and am installing it.
>
> Best Regards,
> Dave Barnhart
> rv-6 sn 23744
I was thinking of using the electric aileron trim on my -4 more as a
safety backup in case of a linkage problem. If I am wrong for thinking
this way, someone speak up now and I'll use the simpler spring method.
It would definitely save me time over the electric installation.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Dick,
If you want to make the holes round lay a piece of plywood across two saw
horses, lay the skin on top of the ply wood. Put the area your going to cut
out in a corner of the plywood and clamp with 2 C clamps on each side of the
corner. Now use your fly cutter in a hand opperated drill. My fly cutter
requires a 3/4 inch drill some dont. This has worked well for me. If your
going with the sqaure hole mark the sqare on your skin. Use a large size
drill or unibit inside the corners of the sqare for your radius,(4 places)
from there I take a high speed cutting wheel (air driven or dremel tool) and
complete the 4 cuts. A little deburing and wala. Hope this is some help.
Ryan Bendure RV4131RB(at)aol.com
Builder, Flyer, Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
I need some suggestions from you builders-
I'm working on a 6A fuse, and am at the point where I need to cut the
access
holes in the aft side skins. I'm curious as to what tips/techniques you
I used the flycutter method and also used the piece that was cut out as
the door...why not.. it fit the hole perfectly. The only trouble was
the hole in the centre. This was easily fixed by dimpling and filling
with a c'sunk screw and nut.
Whichever method you use, make sure you'll be able to get your hand in
with a wrench. I've seen some tiny ones!
One good idea I've seen is the use of a piece of plexiglass as the
cover...in this way you can inspect the linkage during the walkround.
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
try AUA Mac Mcgee at 1800 727-3823....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim - Help |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Les,
I don't know about the Navaid Devices autopilot/turn coordinator, but
the Centry I is installed about the same way and there is little or no
pitch input during operation.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
On Wed, 15 Jan 97 18:04:01 UT "les williams"
writes:
>
>
>Bob Skinner wrote that he is using a Navaid Devices autopilot/turn
>coordinator. Their brochure includes a sample RV-6 installation. It
appears
>to me that such an installation would also effect pitch unless the servo
>torque tube happens to be perfectly parallel to the aileron push tube
whenever
>it is activated. Bob, did you use this installation method? If not,
how and
>where did you install it? It seems to me that the only place to install
it
>without effecting elevator trim would be either an aileron bellcrank,
push
>tube to aileron, or direct to an aileron.
>
>Would appreciate anyone else's input on this also.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Les Williams
>RV-6AQME #60027 (tip-up), picked up 12/18, working on wings first
>RV-6A #20299 completed 4/92, sold 10/95, 350 great hours, Oshkosh '94
>-
>Champion; Northern Calif. EAA Fly-in '94 - Best of Show; Northwest AA
>Fly-in
>'94 - Best of Class; Kerrville SW Regional Fly-in '94 - Grand Champion
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for RV bitmaps |
I am interested in finding out if anyone has a good bitmap or other
electronic format of an RV6A or RV6? I am interested in line art
which I
can import into a drawing program and try out different paint schemes.
I can
convert most formats.
If you have something like this, or can point me to a site that does,
please
eMail me directly at jallen6526(at)aol.com.
I uploaded some Mac pict files a while back and someone converted them
to gifs. They may still be in the archive. Try a search for pict or gif
or pictures etc.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim - Help |
One drawback is I took out my Van's mechanical trim (which also
worked great) and when disengageing the Navaid for landing if
one tank is fuller than the other I am now out of trim with no way
to compensate for the fuller fuel tank.
Jerry, I thought there was a trim knob on the Navaid control, at least
thats what I believe seeing on one of them (Dr John Cocker...can you
confirm). Maybe it wasn't a Navaid.
Ken
RV6A Flying, mechanical trim, works great.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Colorado taxes-UPDATE |
Hi listers:
After posting my original message (I believe it was Tues. eve.), I have
received numerous off-list comments. I've decided to go with the collective
wisdom of the list and not make any official inquiry to the Colorado
Department of Revenue. As almost all who have responded have said... what
they don't know can't hurt us. Don't wake a sleeping monster (or whatever
that saying is), etc.
Sorry for stirring the pot.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
>
>Whoa...State Farm is who I have my insurance with and I was shown the
>exclusion in black and white (my agent at first thought the aircraft was
>covered, until he spent three days looking for the fine print).
Ditto that statement. State Farm said the airplane being built in the
garage is definitely NOT covered.
Scott Gesele (N506RV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>I'm working on a 6A fuse, and am at the point where I need to cut the access
>holes in the aft side skins. I'm curious as to what tips/techniques you
>builders might have as to how to go about doing this. I suppose I could ask
>a couple of neighbors to help hold the skin so I can use the fly cutter on
>the drill press, but I'm thinking there has to be a better way. Thanks in
>advance..
>Dick Flunker (RFLUNKER(at)AOL.COM) N326DB, res
Dick,
I made a rectangular hole on my six per plans. I drilled a series of
holes with the unibit and took out the rest with a nibbler. I also put a
hole on the opposite side. This makes the attachment of the rod end to the
elevator control horns much easier.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Dick,
I forgot to mention a simple way to make a perfect fitting access cover. This
works the same way wheather its round or sqaure. Once your hole is cut out ,
smoothed and debured,lay a piece of material that you are using probably 032
aluminum under the cutout. Trace a line around the access panel on to the
piece of aluminum. Next trim around the line with a pair of snips as close to
the line as you feel comfortable. Finish with your table sander (if you have
one). Once the line has just been removed you should have a perfect fit.
Usually I can have a pannel cover made up this way within about 10min and its
a perfect fit every time.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
There was a thread on the GlaStarnet a week or two ago. Several responses
suggesting AVEMCO and one offering an alternative see below:
> Folk's, does anyone carry fire/comprehensive insurance on their
> uncompleted project? With who?
> Thanks,
>Since I have a loan out against the kit, it was required to carry
hull type insurance on it to the amount of the kit replacement cost. I
got it through Wesley Hawk of AON Risk Services, in Wichita, KS.
(800-835-2677) I shopped around and they gave me the best deal. The
highest rate I was quoted was twice what I paid (around $275/yr for full
kit price). Insurance
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Torque...revisited. |
At 10:52 PM 1/15/97 UT, you wrote:
>
>Rob,
>
>What is "in/oz"? I think the spec is "in/lb".
>
>Les
Les,
I believe in/oz is an appropriate measure of torque as well. But yes, my
post should have stated in/lb...I posted my correction already.
Thanks,
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
(last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Colorado Taxes |
>
>What they don't know won't hurt em..... I don't know why so many people just
>want to throw money at them instead of their project!!!!! Buy instruments
>instead of taxes. Fred
>
Great strategy Fred. Problem is they *will* know (if you decide to register
your aircraft). The penalties and interest on the tax you initially owed
will equal the cost of all those instruments you bought. Guess who winds up
with those if you can't/won't pay?
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
(last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Brown <kbrown(at)stellcom.com> |
>
>
>One good idea I've seen is the use of a piece of plexiglass as the
>cover...in this way you can inspect the linkage during the walkround.
It is my understanding that a semimonocoque structure gets most of its
strength from the skin, not the structure underneath the skin (like a tube
and fabric plane does). I did not study Aeronautical Engineering in school,
so I don't know what forces are acting on the skin of the tailcone, but I
would assume they include compression, tension and torque. Is there any
concern that the plexiglass would not hold up to these forces as well as
aluminum would? Just wondering...
>
>Ken RV6A Flying
>
Ken (a different Ken)
Lurker Extraordinaire
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
Dick asked:
.........I can use the fly cutter on the drill press, but I'm thinking
there has to be a better way.
Dick:
Fly cutters scare the dickens out of me even in a press. I bought a Malco
hole cutter from a local supplier for around $48.00. I think that Bob Avery
carries it also, but I do not have his catalog handy.
It works with a hand drill and cuts no sweat perfect holes up to 12" in
diameter. You drill a small pilot in the center which keeps the tool where
you want it then attach the drill to the milling bit (looks like another
drill bit but is ground slightly different) and cut away.
Cuts a very neat hole.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Jig Construction |
> Hints: 1. Make sure it is firmly secured to the floor. I used "L" brackets
> and screwed it to the concrete garage floor (single car garage, mind you)
Or use "Liquid Nails" (all-purpose adhesive in caulking tubes,
available at hardware stores). That's all I used and it worked great
-- never moved even under all the bumping and banging. And once I was
done I just scraped it from the floor, no holes to drill in the concrete.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I decided to go with the electric aileron trim for the added safety,
should a linkage problem ever occur. I assume the aileron trim would
offer adequate roll control if the linkage decides to part ways. I'm
waiting for someone to tell me this isn't a good idea, so I can save
some time by using the manual trim installation. (Safety was the main
concern, here.) Thanks for any input..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall recess ? |
The sloped part goes up (i.e. the picture on the right).
>
> Top of fuselage
> -------------|--------- ---------|--------
> | |
> | |
> A | F A | F
> F +---| W F /| W
> T | | D T / | D
> | | / |
> S | | F S | | F
> I \ | I I | | I
> D \ | R D | | R
> E \| E E +---| E
> | W | W
> | A | A
> | L | L
> | L | L
> --------------|--------- --------|--------
> Bottom of fuselage
Hint: The recess is -slightly- wider than the 8" called out for the
distance between the two vertical angle pieces it goes between. If
you don't have a prepunched firewall, you will want to adjust the
distance between the two vertical angles so that the recess will fit.
BUT... the F-6120B battery box back, which also goes between these
angles, below the firewall recess, IS 8" wide. The difference in width
is small enough that you should be able to pull the angle pieces in
below the firewall recess such that they are just wide enough to fit
the battery box back without using shims. Get the F-6102B battery box
back out and lay the angles out so that things fit.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
We recently had Olen Nelson of Aero Sound Shield as our guest speaker at
our monthly meeting of EAA Chapter 40. Olen offers a service involving
the deposition of pure 24-carat gold on the outer surfaces of canopies.
The gold layer is deposited in a vacuum chamber and is about 7 microns
(millionths of a meter) thick. It has the effect of reducing infrared
transmission by something like 98.5 percent (don't quote me, but it's a
number very close to 100). It also reduces visible light transmission,
but the result is that the canopy still meets FAA requirements for
minimum light transmission, which I think is about 75 percent of ambient
light. The fragile layer of gold is subsequently covered by a very hard
layer of transparent material that is virtually immune to scratching.
In fact, we scrubbed it with a pad of steel wool and couldn't make a
mark on it! I decided that night that I would eventually investigate
Olen's services for my own airplane. For further information, contact
Olen Nelson at Aero Sound Shield, L.L.C.; 16700 Roscoe Blvd.; Van Nuys,
CA 91406; (818) 374-5355. I do not have accurate information on the
cost of this process but was led to believe it was a few hundred
dollars. It would seem to obviate the need for a canopy cover and might
dramatically diminish the discomfort of entering an airplane that has
been parked out in the sun for awhile.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E Steffens" <resteffe(at)dpcmail.dukepower.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for RV bitmaps |
>I am interested in finding out if anyone has a good bitmap or other
>electronic format of an RV6A or RV6? I am interested in line art which I
>can import into a drawing program and try out different paint schemes. I
>can convert most formats.
>If you have something like this, or can point me to a site that does, please
>eMail me directly at jallen6526(at)aol.com.
If anyone has something like this, please post it to the list. I sure
would be interested.
Dick Steffens RV6 North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall recess ? |
James,
The firewall recess slopes towards the top. I deleted the "wrong" option
from your ascii drawing below.
Top of fuselage
---------|--------
|
|
A | F
F /| W
T / | D
/ |
S | | F
I | | I
D | | R
E +---| E
| W
| A
| L
| L
--------|--------
Bottom of fuselage
Scott Gesele (N506RV)
scottg(at)villagenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim - Help |
Les, I have installed a Navaid but as I have not yet flown, my opinion is
not worth very much. All the comments I read on the RV-List have been positive.
I mounted mine under the passenger seat, and now I have finished wiring, it
is operational, in that if I adjust the trim the Navaid adjusts the right way.
It does not seem to affetc pitch, even though it connects at an angle. This
angle changes a lot with movement of the control column.
As it saves buying a turn and bank, as well as providing aileron trim, it
helps with the expense. I have slaved it to my Garmin GPS. For some reason I
thought this might be a long and difficult job, it turned out to consist of
joining two wires, the brown to the brown, and the yellow to the yellow.
Even I got that right first time.
I am looking forward to reading comments from those who have flown with the
Navaid.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall recess ? |
James, I mounted mine with the slope at the top, and the prop governor fits
well.
Incidentally I mounted the soleniods for the master and the starter on the
sloping part, so they are inside the firewall.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
Dick, I seem to remember that I cut mine in situ, I found the size of hole
into which I could insert my hand.
Incidentally, I am covering the holes with circles of perspex, so I can see
through, and check the attachments without unscewing a plate.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 524 Eighth Annual RV Forum |
>
>RV-Listers,
>=20
>You are cordially invited to attend EAA Chapter 524's eighth annual RV
>Forum to be held on Saturday and=20
>Sunday, April 12 & 13, 1997. The RV Forum will be held at the Frederick
>Community College Aviation=20
>Technology Hangar, which is south of the main parking lot at Frederick
>Airport (FDK), Frederick,=20
>Maryland.=20
>=20
Thanks Gene,
I have a question about the way that you posted your article. I've had this
happen with a couple of other RV-list postings recently. If you notice, the
above text has some wierd delimiters like "=20"
When the post is being downloaded to my Eudora mail reader, your post causes
the process to pause to ask me if I want to discard the article, download it
as text only, or save it for later. You have apparently stuck an attachment
into the post. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
The reason that I'm posting this back to the RV-list is that I had never
seen this problem with my reader until a few weeks ago, and only on the
RV-list. It's a pain in the butt because it causes the download to cease
until I enter a response. There is at least one other group member who is
using a similar method to post. It's not a big deal, but I'm curious
because when I select "download as text" I get the post twice, one with the
delimiters, and one without.
The subject of your post was not a problem. Please no flames. We seem to
be really steaming with 40 or more posts per day. I try to read each one,
or at least scan for content.
>Gene Gottschalk
>EAA Chapter 524, Frederick, Maryland
>geneg(at)oz.kis.net
>(301) 865-3432
>
Mike Weller RV 80187 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
I used a knockout cutter that electricians use to knockout the holes in
junction boxes for their conduit to go in. I bet if you went to a electrical
contractor he would possibly let you barrow or rent one, especially if you
told him what you were up to.
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
aol.com!RFlunker(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I need some suggestions from you builders-
>
> I'm working on a 6A fuse, and am at the point where I need to cut the access
> holes in the aft side skins.
> Dick Flunker (RFLUNKER(at)AOL.COM)
> N326DB, res
Dick
Looks like you've already gotten a lot of good advise on this but I'd
like to add a couple of things.
If you have back issues of Sport Aviation in June 91 page 36 as I recall
Tony Bingelis describes how he did it. It's simpler than what the plans
show.
Make it as big as you can and put one on both sides. I only put one in
mine, because of advise from a friend and boy was I cussing him come
assembly time.
Bud Newhall
Flying
--
__|__
__|__ ____(+)____
____(+)____ ' '
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque...revisited. |
Rob,
I was just wondering if you replaced that bolt that you over tightened?
My guess is that it may be stretched and/or weakened.
Any comments about this from the list would be great, as I'm not absolutly
sure that bolt replacement is required.
Could it also weaken the threads in the nut?
Royce Craven
>
>On goes the torque wrench, it immediately clicks. Wow. So just for grins
>(knowing it would not be accurate but I just wanted to know how far off my
>"feel" was) I set the wrench to 120, click. Wow again. Set it to 150, click.
>
>I backed off the nut, set the wrench for 70, and believe me 70 in/oz feels
>like nothing. You can do it EASILY with ONE finger on the wrench. It irks
>me to think such a low force will hold my aileron controls in place, but I
>will be going by the book (the thought of 6g's of structure on a fastener
>tightened two or three times over spec is scarier).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak, Rudder cable turnbuckle |
> Yes, the QB tanks are sealed and leak tested.
>
> James
>
But not very well. My right QB fuel tank had a hole big enough to see light
thru. When I put fuel in the tank and plugged all the openings I had fuel
spurting out that hole just from the vapor pressure of the fuel.
Van's sent me some pro seal, so I get to experience that. I hear it's good
stuff for sealing the firewall, so there's a silver lining to this particular
cloud.
Since I'm vertically challenged I've mounted my rudder pedals as far aft as
possible. I would think this would mean I'll need to shorten the rudder
cables and install a turnbuckle on each side. Is that the case?
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
TimRV6A(at)aol.com
skipping the wing installation for now, skinning forward fuse, canopy is next
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim - Help |
>Jerry, I thought there was a trim knob on the Navaid control, at least
>thats what I believe seeing on one of them (Dr John Cocker...can you
>confirm). Maybe it wasn't a Navaid.
>
>Ken
>RV6A Flying, mechanical trim, works great.
Ken, Navaid recommends that the unit be turned off when taking off or
landing. Makes sense when you think of what could possibly happen if the
unit went haywire at the wrong time.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
I made round holes, used fly cutter to cut through the skins, the same hole
on both sides. I didn't want to have the fly cutter's pilot hole/riveted in
center, in my cover discs. So I:
Turned the fly cutter bit around (one way saves the inner piece, the other
way saves the outer piece right?) and cut 2 particle board discs that are the
equal sizes of cover plates desired. Next "C" clamped a piece of alum
between the discs and belt sanded to the edge of the wood. Move the clamp
and continued around the part. The wood keeps you from going to far and is a
good circle guide. You'd swear they were die cut and fit perfect.
Also made a "Doughnut" alum ring for the plate nut holding undersurface.
Later I "oval" flattened the sides to fit in between the F611 and F612
bulkheads.
David McManmon McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
>Whoa...State Farm is who I have my insurance with and I was shown the
>exclusion in black and white (my agent at first thought the aircraft was
>covered, until he spent three days looking for the fine print).
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
Whoa...Whoa... stop
I called my State Farm agent today. He told me that I was covered. As long
as it was "hobby stuff" it was covered. But, whoa, more...
I think that he was thinking about the tools that I have bought. All I have
is a tail kit under consruction. The big cost is the tools, so far.
Your guy spent 3 days looking at the "fine print". I bit the dust and
decided to read this "fine print" (unthinkable on the information super
highway). I wanted to give you (ya'll really) and your agent the benefit of
a doubt.
Read "Coverage B - Personal Property, 2. Property not covered. We do not
cover: 2.e - aircraft or parts." - State Farm
Not exactly fine print, in my humble opinion. Not too hard to understand.
It took me more time to find to policy than to find the relevant clause.
Thanks to all that that have made this apparent to me. I really thought
that until I put the wings on the thing, which then would not be in my
garage, I would be covered. And, really, it does seem fair to me. I'll
self insure until I buy the engine and instruments.
Mike Weller RV 80187 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
| Subject: | January Sport Aviation |
Congratulations to George and Becki Orndorff for the beautiful picture being
published in this months issue.
Nancy & Ray Murphy, Jr.
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV-6A empennage
North Bend, Oregon
541-756-7230
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC03E9.4A090660
Ken,
There are no stresses structurally on the door or cover. The skin on the =
other hand may have structural stresses which is the reason for rounding =
the opening or at least the corners and polishing all the edges. The =
very fact that the door is cut "loose" separates said door from integrel =
stressess. Al
----------
From: Ken Brown[SMTP:stellcom.com!kbrown(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 1997 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List: Access Hole
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: Ken Brown
It is my understanding that a semimonocoque structure gets most of its
strength from the skin, not the structure underneath the skin (like a =
tube
and fabric plane does). I did not study Aeronautical Engineering in =
school,
so I don't know what forces are acting on the skin of the tailcone, but =
I
would assume they include compression, tension and torque. Is there any
concern that the plexiglass would not hold up to these forces as well as
aluminum would? Just wondering... (a different Ken) Lurker =
Extraordinaire
=20
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC03E9.4A090660
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC03E9.4A090660--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry E. Walker" <efford(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: subscribe] |
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 20:38:57 -0500
From: "Jerry E. Walker" <efford(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: subscribe
subscribe rv-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. John M. Ely" <jmely(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall recess ? |
James Kelley wrote:
>
> ...the pre-made firewall recess (WD-601K) ... with the
> slope to the top or to the bottom of the fuse? I have looked for a picture...
For a picture, look carefully at the fuselage photos marked page 8-10
(in my manual). If you look just behind the rudder pedal cross tubes in
the center right and bottom 2 photos you'll see the slope at the top.
Also, I mounted mine from the back side (under the stiffeners). It
makes the engine side of the firewall much neater and is easier to seal.
John Ely, RV-6 finishing.......................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HPair(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Wanted to Buy 68"dia 71" pitch Wood Prop |
I am interested in buying a 68X71 " wood prop for a 150HP 0320 If anyone has
one they want to sell please contact me @ 805-481-2524
Thanks Harry paine
P.S. Squeezers are now out of stock!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun room effect |
>
>Hi Scott
>
>Good points- for me it is more of a direct son broblem then heat.
Same with me, the boy doesn't show up but the cops do.
Mike Weller RV 80187 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bad news from New York State tax department |
So if there was ever a reason to be a slow builder??? Statute of limitations
apply against these purchases here?
FWIW
Don't know if it's pure bull dung or not, but I'm told 2 local flying RV's
did in fact get the notice from NYS shortly after N# registration.
They have replied back stating some thing to the effect that " all applicable
sales taxes have been paid". Wonder if they'll ever get called on the carpet
and have to prove it? But it's not a tax now is it....HMMMM. Wonder if
they'd ever admit this embarassment should it happen. What's a guy to do?
To bad how one day the list'rs can talk about slow activity, and the next
flame...."not taxes!" :(
Stuck getting many days of messages now for AOL not making this list activity
much easier either. :(
David McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak, Rudder cable turnbuckle |
Tim,
I am disappointed to hear that your tank leaked. Hope I don't have the same
problem.
Did the tank have a note attached stating that it had been leak tested. Mine
do so I assumed leaks weren't a concern.
Phil Rogerson
6AQ 60057
philipr920(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim - Help |
J.Ken Hitchmough wrote:
>
>
>
> One drawback is I took out my Van's mechanical trim (which also
> worked great) and when disengageing the Navaid for landing if
> one tank is fuller than the other I am now out of trim with no way
> to compensate for the fuller fuel tank.
>
>
> Jerry, I thought there was a trim knob on the Navaid control, at least
> thats what I believe seeing on one of them (Dr John Cocker...can you
> confirm). Maybe it wasn't a Navaid.
>
> Ken
> RV6A Flying, mechanical trim, works great.
Ken
There is a trim on the Navaid but you can't or should not land with
the Navaid engaged, although it is easy enough to override it if
you do leave it engaged, I just don't want it to do something
unexpected while I am low and slow.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rvlistac.dat (1964 bytes) |
Subj: RE: RE: RV-List: Access Hole
Date: 97-01-16 22:16:09 EST
From: iwaynet.net!prober(at)matronics.com (Al Mojzisik)
File: rvlistac.dat (1964 bytes)
DL Time (19200 bps): < 1 minute
What are these files that appear attached to some letters? Could some one
direct me on how to open attached .DAT files. I think I still have seat
drwgs? and other stuff that I'd like to see.
direct E'mail is fine. Thanks
David McManmon McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morrissey <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Re: LOM RV-3?? was(Random Vne changes??) |
Hi Jim,
As you know I am building an RV4 and I am interested in installing the LOM
engine caus' it looks good, is certified and seem's to perform well. You
mention that Van's motor mount vendor provided the mount - do you think he
would be interested in supplying one for the RV4?? what sort of cost
difference did you have between this installation and the original Lycoming
installation?.
I'm about to order the finishing kit so this is all pretty interesting to me.
Stuff Deleted!!
>
>The LOM engine installation was a major alteration to the original Lycoming
>O-290-G installation, and I obtained a new airworthiness certification prior
>to its first flight. Since the installation did not cause a sgnificant
>weight change (three pounds lighter empty weight) and the empty balance point
>was within the designers recommended envelope, there was no significant
>change to the design. (Van's motor mount vendor provided the
>firewall/landing gear portion of the motor mount.)
>
How's this Ivoprop/Lom installation compare in performance with the old
Lycoming, what's the aerobatic performance compare??
Ahh so many questions, so little time!!
:-)
>The Ivoprop variable pitch prop installation is also a major alteration from
>the fixed pitch or ground adjustable prop. I received the third
>airworthiness certificate for my RV-3 prior to its first flight with the VP
>prop. Since the installed weight of the Ivoprop electric prop is the same as
>the Warnke prop, there was no change in the weight and balance.
Stuff Deleted!!
John Morrissey
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Jig Construction |
<< Or use "Liquid Nails" (all-purpose adhesive in caulking tubes,
available at hardware stores). That's all I used and it worked great
-- never moved even under all the bumping and banging. And once I was
done I just scraped it from the floor, no holes to drill in the concrete. >>
But be careful in using Liquid Nails on fairly new concrete. Liquid Nails
sticks so well, that when I knocked the wood free from the floor, it took a
hunk of concrete with it. The floor was only about 4 months old. I couldn't
believe it. I used MEK to help loosen up the other spots to prevent this
from happening again.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d shipman <innovate(at)dallas.net> |
Hello everyone:
I live in the Dallas, TX area and am looking for RV's to photograph. If
anyone in the North Texas area would be willing to "pose" please contact
me via e-mail at innovate(at)dallas.net.
Also, who knows when the next airshow/fly-ins in this area with RV's
attending will be.
Thanks much,
David Shipman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak, Rudder cable turnbuckle |
ie...Rudder Cable Turnbuckle.
I also moved the rudder pedals aft because I'm 5' 3". Unless you move them
a real long ways, all you have to do is to make shorter connecting strips.
Don't have the plans in front of me right now, but, I'm talking about the
strips that attach the cable to the pedal. Make these strips to fit YOUR
airplane, not to Van's dimensions. I believe it was the great Tony B. who
once said something like this, " Make the first part as close to the plans as
possible. Make the rest of the parts to fit the first part." Best advise
I've ever heard.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab movement... |
Bob:
You wrote "... I machined a spacer to fit in between the horns,
about
an inch in diameter and attached it to the horns with an AN bolt to
tie the
two elevator halves together.
Disclaimer: This is what I did and such a modification may not have
the
blessing of the designer."
Can you give a little more information about your spacer? Where on
the horns does it attach? What material did you use?
George Kilishek
RV8 #80006 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
FYI, most homeowner insurance policies exclude any aircraft
or aircraft components.
I don't know how you got by with this, but great if you did.
It may vary by state.
Herman
>
> State Farm has covered my construciton project at no cost to my current home
> owners policy. It is being built in the garage.
>
> Tim Etherington
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <72714.2663(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | RIB END FLANGE REPLACEMENT |
I would appreciate information on replacing the end flanges on ribs and the end
flange on the HS-602 stabilizer front spar.
The instructions state that if stabilizer forward spar HS-602 is too long and
forces the tip ribs apart the flanges at the end should be removed and new ones
fabricated, then rivited on in correct position, and if HS-602 is too short,
shims may be added.
My HS-602 was 3/16 short at both ends and I considered this was excessive
distance to shim, therefore I have decided to add longer end flanges on the
HS-602.
I also found that when I lined up the centerline marks on the HS-405 ribs with
the rivet holes in HS-601PP pre punched skin and drilled through forward spar
splice angle HS-614 into the HS-405 rib end flange I was too close to web of
rib, about 1/8 inch on worst hole.
So now I also plan to replace forward end flanges on both HS-405.
There is no information on new end flanges in plans and AC 43-13 does not
directly cover same.
I plan to make new end flange out of .032 2024-T3 dimensons 5/8 in. on flange
end and 3/4 in. against rib web. I plan to use single row of 1/8 rivets with 6
to 8 diameter spacing. Three rivets on web of HS-602 spar and 4 rivets on web of
HS-405.
Thanks for info.
George McNutt HS - RV6A
Mostly standing around staring at that steep learning curve!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
Hi Les:
I've been a ham since 1950. My current call is KK6VL. Former calls
include:
W2FNQ, KH6EIQ, W2CWU, W3HJK, EI5CT, W6TQK, and N3EI.
George Kilishek
RV-8 #8006 : wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TESTPYLOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sun Room Effect |
Thanks Jack this good stuff to know I will give them a call. Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TESTPYLOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sun room effect |
Ha Ha that was good (son, sun) ok ok no cops for me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bennett(at)healey.com.au |
I've only been building for six years and put in 80% of the rivets
but I've never had much success with the 5 degree offset rivet set
for AN470 rivets. Bloody thing swivels in the gun, mashes the head
and dings the flange.
Last night I was rivetting the F6105 bulkhead halves and had no
alternative to the offset set. Brainwave!!!!!. I taped the rivet set to
the spring with masking tape to stop it swivelling. From then on it
was just like using the straight set.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 working inside fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: RFlunker(at)aol.com
I need some suggestions from you builders-
I'm working on a 6A fuse, and am at the point where I need to cut the =
access
holes in the aft side skins. I'm curious as to what tips/techniques you
builders might have as to how to go about doing this. I suppose I could =
ask
a couple of neighbors to help hold the skin so I can use the fly cutter =
on
the drill press, but I'm thinking there has to be a better way. Thanks =
in
advance..
Dick Flunker (RFLUNKER(at)AOL.COM)
N326DB, res
I used a 'Malco' hole cutter (see p52 in Avery '96 catalog) for cutting =
the lightening holes in the spar webs, the fuel tank access holes, and =
radiused corners for leading edge landing light cutouts....on the =
installed leading edge skin. Try that with a flybar cutter! This is a =
metal cutting router that is powered by your 1/4" drill.
The cutter needs a small center hole (#40) and works best on the larger =
holes if backed up by a piece of soft wood...I used kit-box pine. On =
unsupported cuts, I found that if I cut two semi-circles and left two =
small connecting pieces of metal, that the center cutout would stay in =
position as the centering guide for the cutter. Otherwise, you will cut =
outside your desired circle just as the cutter finishes a complete =
circle.
This thing works FAST, will start cutting without drilling a starter =
hole, and there is not the danger involved with the flybar cutter. =
Also, no drill press needed!
Drawbacks:=20
The cutout piece cannot be used as a cover for the hole you just cut. =
(1/2 in. less in dia.)
The edges of the hole are not quite as smooth as with a properly =
anchored drill press flybar cut, but after deburring, you can't tell the =
difference.
Price, $48. More than twice the price of Avery's heavy duty flybar =
cutter, but will cut 12" diameter circle to the flybar's 8", and without =
a drill press.
P.S. Nope, I don't work for Avery.
Darrell Anderson
Montana
Still replacing overdriven wing skin rivets.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Torque...revisited. |
>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: "les williams" =
>
>Rob,
>
>What is "in/oz"? I think the spec is "in/lb".
>
>Les=20
>Les,
>I believe in/oz is an appropriate measure of torque as well. But yes, =
my
>post should have stated in/lb...I posted my correction already.
Rob, Les, & all,=20
This might be picky, but...
Isn't torque (i.e.. moment) force X arm ? Then the unit is ft-lb, in-lb =
or in-oz. Ft/lb notation would infer "ft per lb" or ft divided by lb, =
as in feet per second: ft/sec.
1 ft-lb =3D 12 in-lb =3D 192 in-oz (using 12in/ft, 16oz/lb conversion =
factors)
Then there's kg-cm (kilogram centimeters) in the metric system....you =
might have to convert any of these if your spec is in one unit, and your =
wrench is marked in the other.
Has the List archive mentioned proper torque wrench use, i.e.. ADDING =
'prevailing torque' when torqueing self-locking nuts, use of offset =
extensions requiring calculations, pull from the center of the handle, =
not 'snatching' the wrench, etc.?
You guessed it...military trained.
Darrell Anderson
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Inst. panel mods |
Is the RV-4 instrument panel a structural member? I would like to =
modify the lower edges of the panel to accommodate my overlong legs. I =
assume that the lower flange of the panel is the structural part, and =
some means of carrying the shear and compressive loads would have to be =
added elsewhere if I notched the panel above where my knees will be. =
Any suggestions as to what others have done? I have a lot of pictures =
of RV-4 inst. panel and seat relocation mods, but no specific details on =
measurements or structural considerations. I'm not working on the =
fuselage yet, just trying to plan ahead.
Darrell Anderson
6'-4"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trim |
>I decided to go with the electric aileron trim for the added safety,
>should a linkage problem ever occur. I assume the aileron trim would
>offer adequate roll control if the linkage decides to part ways. I'm
>waiting for someone to tell me this isn't a good idea, so I can save
>some time by using the manual trim installation. (Safety was the main
>concern, here.) Thanks for any input..
Michael,
If your aileron linkage system failed, the servo would only be contolling
one aileron. Is there a possibility that the other aileron would start to
flutter? If this happens, controlling the aircraft may not be possible as
flutter may have already destroyed it. (Sorry to be a "gloomy Gus") For as
much trouble as it would be to install, I'd go with the manual trim. I have
the Navaid Devices wing leveler in my six but that is a costly option and
time consuming to install. It looks like Van's simple, manual trim offers a
lot of bang for the buck.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab movement... |
>You wrote "... I machined a spacer to fit in between the horns,
>about an inch in diameter and attached it to the horns with an AN bolt to
>tie the two elevator halves together.
>Can you give a little more information about your spacer? Where on
>the horns does it attach? What material did you use?
>George Kilishek RV8 #80006 wings
George,
I used a piece of aluminum round stock that was under my workbench. I
mounted this cylinder between the pivot point of the control horns and where
the rod ends fasten.
I can't remember if I posted the following so forgive me if I repeat.
This is the same piece that I used to insure that the hole I drilled through
the elevator horns where in line. I bored a perpendicular #30 hole through
the aluminum cylinder. I drilled a #30 hole through one elevator control
horn. I then lined up the control horn hole with the cylinder (inserted a
#30 bit) and then proceeded to line up both elevators and clamp them
together. I then drilled through the first hole and the cylinder kept the
drill bit perpendicular as the bit drilled through the other side. I then
enlarged the rod end mounting holes, but kept the cylinder at #30 so I could
repeat the process when I went to install the spacer above the rod end
attach area.
Hope I explained this OK.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall(at)ipass.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for RV bitmaps |
>>I am interested in finding out if anyone has a good bitmap or other
>>electronic format of an RV6A or RV6?
>
> If anyone has something like this, please post it to the list. I
sure
> would be interested.
> Dick Steffens RV6 North Carolina
I have a color scanner at work, and would be glad to scan and distribute any
photos folks would care to have scanned. Contact me directly so we can work
out the details if you're interested.
J.C. Hassall
RV-6 Builder Wannabe
jhassall(at)ipass.net
Raleigh NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
David,
What are the photo's going to be used for , Becki and I ay be
interrested....george orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bad news from New York State tax department |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers:
If your server service is poor, try JUNO. Email ONLY, no attachments,
and its FREE..... Copies of the FREE software can be had from JUNO by
writing to signup(at)juno.com and requesting a copy. Or get it from
somebody else that is currently using it as JUNO allows it to be freely
distributed.
Oh, it's free because they download advertisements to your screen.
Doesn't take up much system memory, and isn't obtrusive... And some are
actually interesting.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
> *** SNIP ****
>Stuck getting many days of messages now for AOL not making this list
activity
>much easier either. :(
>
>David McManmon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 524 Eighth Annual RV Forum |
Mike,
No, there was no attachment, straight ASCII text. I've notice the same
thing over the past week with my Eudora mail reader. I am at a loss to
explain the "=20" as well. I haven't seen that before. Originally the text
I posted was in Microsoft Publisher. I clipped the text from the flyer we
sent out to the mailing list, but it was just copied to the clipboard and
pasted into the e-mail. Maybe Matte can shed some light on the subject.
-Gene
>I have a question about the way that you posted your article. I've had this
>happen with a couple of other RV-list postings recently. If you notice, the
>above text has some wierd delimiters like "=20"
>
>When the post is being downloaded to my Eudora mail reader, your post causes
>the process to pause to ask me if I want to discard the article, download it
>as text only, or save it for later. You have apparently stuck an attachment
>into the post. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
Dr John Cocker wrote:
>
>
> Dick, I seem to remember that I cut mine in situ, I found the size of hole
> into which I could insert my hand.
> Incidentally, I am covering the holes with circles of perspex, so I can see
> through, and check the attachments without unscewing a plate.
> John
John
Can you tell me what perspex is, and where I can get some.
The idea of being able to look at the pushrod-elevator
connection before every flight is comforting.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 143CH
Airframe is almost done, is there a good O-320 left in this world?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Colorado Taxes |
<< I called the Colorado Department of Revenue today to ask about sales/use
taxes for our kits/airplanes. As you might guess, I wasn't able to get a
straigt answer out of anybody. Colorado does have a law on the books which
exempts airplane _parts_ from sales and use taxes >>
Hi Rod,
The Colorado Dept. of Revenue picks up the names and addresses from the FAA
when you request a "N" number. I know of several RV people who received
letters from the Colo. dept. of revenue at that point and responded with a
note that these were aircraft parts and included a copy of an invoice from
Vans that looked like a list of parts and the RV types haven't heard a thing
from the revenuers since. Myself included, but I set here in Boulder
surrounded by 30 square miles of reality. Or is that 30 miles surrounded by
reality. Anyway, I think it is closer to 32 sq.miles if you count the
parks.
GeneFrancis, cafgef@aol,com
Working in the basement on the RMI encoder and monitor 'cause it's too cool
in the garage to work on the canopy.
I'm also trying to figure out what is this stuff called JB epoxy and JB
weld.
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I'm working on a 6A fuse, and am at the point where I need to cut the
access
holes in the aft side skins. >>
Dick,
I used the fly cutter in a manual mode. Lots of control that way. Put on a
glove, hold the fly cutter in your hand and scrape out the circle. (actually
an almost circle.) By hand you don't have to take it all the way around.
Takes about 10 minutes. The worst part is to find the center hole to pilot
the center of the fly cutter.
Gene, cafgef@ aol.com
still in the basement cause it's too cool in the garage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
>It is my understanding that a semimonocoque structure gets most of its
>strength from the skin, not the structure underneath the skin (like a tube
>and fabric plane does). I did not study Aeronautical Engineering in school,
>so I don't know what forces are acting on the skin of the tailcone, but I
>would assume they include compression, tension and torque. Is there any
>concern that the plexiglass would not hold up to these forces as well as
>aluminum would? Just wondering...
>
Ken,
Remember the reinforcing ring rivetted to the inside of the skin? That will
add the strength back into the structure that was lost when the opening was
cut out. Therefore, the cover plate is MOSTLY cosmetic. I don't think
there would be any problem using a plexiglass cover except that it wouldn't
be .025" thick and wouldn't be completely flush with the outside skin.
There was a post a few days ago on this subject. The writer claimed to use
a flycutter in a hand drill. All the flycutters that I've seen so far are
only to be used in a drill press and at a very slow speed.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele (N506RV)
scottg(at)villagenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Jig Construction |
I attached my jig to my basement floor using "Bondo". It has held great. No
holes in the floor, very easy to clean-up and best of all very inexpensive.
--- Forwarded mail from rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:53:56 -0800
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuselage Jig Construction
> Hints: 1. Make sure it is firmly secured to the floor. I used "L" brackets
> and screwed it to the concrete garage floor (single car garage, mind you)
Or use "Liquid Nails" (all-purpose adhesive in caulking tubes,
available at hardware stores). That's all I used and it worked great
-- never moved even under all the bumping and banging. And once I was
done I just scraped it from the floor, no holes to drill in the concrete.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
---End of forwarded mail from rv-list(at)matronics.com
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Senior Research Engineer
Advance Vehicle Technology
Ford Motor Company
Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RIB END FLANGE REPLACEMENT |
George,
3/16" spacer isn't a big deal. Neither are the holes 1/8" from web, so long
as you can set the rivets. The HS-602 front spar should have been lenghtened
by spreading it apart in the middle, but if you did like me, and already cut
off the 5" or so of the flanges, its too late. The only problem with the
spacer addition is that the flanges are now a little narrow at the outboard
end, but after assembly, it is hardly noticeable. Mine came out the same
way, and it turned out fine. Forge ahead.
Les Williams
RV-6AQBME #60027
------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of George McNutt
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 1997 9:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: RIB END FLANGE REPLACEMENT
I would appreciate information on replacing the end flanges on ribs and the
end
flange on the HS-602 stabilizer front spar.
The instructions state that if stabilizer forward spar HS-602 is too long and
forces the tip ribs apart the flanges at the end should be removed and new
ones
fabricated, then rivited on in correct position, and if HS-602 is too short,
shims may be added.
My HS-602 was 3/16 short at both ends and I considered this was excessive
distance to shim, therefore I have decided to add longer end flanges on the
HS-602.
I also found that when I lined up the centerline marks on the HS-405 ribs with
the rivet holes in HS-601PP pre punched skin and drilled through forward spar
splice angle HS-614 into the HS-405 rib end flange I was too close to web of
rib, about 1/8 inch on worst hole.
So now I also plan to replace forward end flanges on both HS-405.
There is no information on new end flanges in plans and AC 43-13 does not
directly cover same.
I plan to make new end flange out of .032 2024-T3 dimensons 5/8 in. on flange
end and 3/4 in. against rib web. I plan to use single row of 1/8 rivets with 6
to 8 diameter spacing. Three rivets on web of HS-602 spar and 4 rivets on web
of
HS-405.
Thanks for info.
George McNutt HS - RV6A
Mostly standing around staring at that steep learning curve!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun Room Effect |
I imagine that once coated with the gold and hard coat, the canopy could
be worked on just as though it were not coated, and it would be less
vulnerable to inadvertent damage than without the coating. The only
issue here seems to be whether the hard coat would be prone to chip or
crack and I can't answer that question. I suggest that you ask Olen
about that. Gil Alexander told me last night that the price quoted to
him for the gold and hard coat was $300.00. I've decided to do mine,
too. Mine is already finished and installed, but I think this is a
really good deal. I have a slider so I'll leave the windshield clear.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I am looking for a flush mount latch for my tilt-up canopy. I remember
seeing some surplus ones at Arlington, very cool spring loaded, F-15 looking
things and kick myself for not buying one at the time. Did anyone else buy
one or have something else I could use? Kevin N3773 rsvd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Peter,
Excellent brainwave.
Les Williams
RV-6AQBME #60027
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of
healey.com.au!bennett(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 17, 1997 11:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rivetting tip
I've only been building for six years and put in 80% of the rivets
but I've never had much success with the 5 degree offset rivet set
for AN470 rivets. Bloody thing swivels in the gun, mashes the head
and dings the flange.
Last night I was rivetting the F6105 bulkhead halves and had no
alternative to the offset set. Brainwave!!!!!. I taped the rivet set to
the spring with masking tape to stop it swivelling. From then on it
was just like using the straight set.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 working inside fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 524/download problem |
>
>Mike,
>
>No, there was no attachment, straight ASCII text. I've notice the same
>thing over the past week with my Eudora mail reader. I am at a loss to
>explain the "=20" as well. I haven't seen that before. Originally the text
>I posted was in Microsoft Publisher. I clipped the text from the flyer we
>sent out to the mailing list, but it was just copied to the clipboard and
>pasted into the e-mail. Maybe Matte can shed some light on the subject.
>
>-Gene
>
>>I have a question about the way that you posted your article. I've had this
>>happen with a couple of other RV-list postings recently. If you notice, the
>>above text has some wierd delimiters like "=20"
>>
>>When the post is being downloaded to my Eudora mail reader, your post causes
>>the process to pause to ask me if I want to discard the article, download it
>>as text only, or save it for later. You have apparently stuck an attachment
>>into the post. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I hesitate to bring up E-mail problems, but I too, am getting two copies of
some E-mail with the "errors converting one or more attachments. Do you
want to leave the message on your POP server, get rid of it, or download as
text." message.
Bob Skinner BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Rivetting tip |
healey.com.au!bennett(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I've only been building for six years and put in 80% of the rivets
> but I've never had much success with the 5 degree offset rivet set
> for AN470 rivets. Bloody thing swivels in the gun, mashes the head
> and dings the flange.
>
> Last night I was rivetting the F6105 bulkhead halves and had no
> alternative to the offset set. Brainwave!!!!!. I taped the rivet set to
> the spring with masking tape to stop it swivelling. From then on it
> was just like using the straight set.
>
> Peter Bennett
> Sydney Australia
> RV6 working inside fuselage
Great idea. I was about to consider my offsets useless, also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trim |
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
>
> >I decided to go with the electric aileron trim for the added safety,
> >should a linkage problem ever occur. I assume the aileron trim would
> >offer adequate roll control if the linkage decides to part ways. I'm
> >waiting for someone to tell me this isn't a good idea, so I can save
> >some time by using the manual trim installation. (Safety was the main
> >concern, here.) Thanks for any input..
>
> Michael,
> If your aileron linkage system failed, the servo would only be contolling
> one aileron. Is there a possibility that the other aileron would start to
> flutter? If this happens, controlling the aircraft may not be possible as
> flutter may have already destroyed it. (Sorry to be a "gloomy Gus") For as
> much trouble as it would be to install, I'd go with the manual trim. I have
> the Navaid Devices wing leveler in my six but that is a costly option and
> time consuming to install. It looks like Van's simple, manual trim offers a
> lot of bang for the buck.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
Thanks alot. I never even thought of the ailerons being seperated in a
linkage failure. What is the cost of the Navaid wing leveler ya'll have
been talking about? (out of curiosity, at this point.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. W. Benedict" <jbenedic(at)uofport.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A 3-View Image |
http://www.portlands.com/rv6-3v.gif
http://www.portlands.com/rv6a-3v.gif
Available at that address until probably 1/25/97
Jeremy
> >I am interested in finding out if anyone has a good bitmap or other
> >electronic format of an RV6A or RV6? I am interested in line art which I
> >can import into a drawing program and try out different paint schemes. I
> >can convert most formats.
> If anyone has something like this, please post it to the list. I sure$
> would be interested.
> Dick Steffens RV6 North Carolina
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
| name://Jeremy Benedict | PP-ASEL (1994) [R/E: TD,HP] |
| email://jbenedic(at)uofport.edu | Logged: RV-4,-6,-6A,-6B,-6T |
| http://currently not available | Cessna 150, 182 |
| voice://503.240.1524 | TT: 260.5 hrs TT-RV: 163.1 hrs |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 2-0360's A1D ENGS |
For those interested I have this info....
2 360 A1D 2150TSMO
ENGS built by " Central Texas Engines "
Chrome cyls.Everything firewall forward...
I do not know this Salvage Co very well,but it
may be a help to someone LOOKING!!!
DONS AIRCRAFT SALVAGE
7338 SPARTA HIGHWAY
SPARTA,TN
615-761-3571
GOOD LUCK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2-0360's A1D ENGS |
John McMahon wrote:
>
> For those interested I have this info....
>
> 2 360 A1D 2150TSMO
> ENGS built by " Central Texas Engines "
>
> Chrome cyls.Everything firewall forward...
> I do not know this Salvage Co very well,but it
> may be a help to someone LOOKING!!!
>
> DONS AIRCRAFT SALVAGE
> 7338 SPARTA HIGHWAY
> SPARTA,TN
> 615-761-3571
> GOOD LUCK
I FORGOT TO STATE THAT BOTH COME WITH PROPS,HUBS,SPINNERS,
HARTZELL PROPS
HUB=HC C2YK-2RBF BLADE DESIGN=F7666A2 74"
$9,000.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | JUNO - FREE EMAIL SERVICE |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers,
Here's some additional information on the FREE email service from
JUNO.......
If your server service is poor, try JUNO. Email ONLY, no
attachments, and its FREE..... Copies of the FREE software can be had
from JUNO by writing to signup(at)juno.com and requesting a copy. Or get it
from somebody else that is currently using it as JUNO allows it to be
freely distributed. Oh, it's free because they download advertisements
to your screen. Doesn't take up much system memory, and isn't
obtrusive... And some are
actually interesting.....
System requirements are minimal: 9600 baud or greater modem, 386 CPU
minimum, approx. 10 meg of space on the hard drive. FREE telephone access
in most locations.
They recently surpassed the 1 million member benchmark. So far the
service has been excellent.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I am currently working on my tanks. (RV-4) I am at the point where I
should be marking for plate nuts. I have looked and looked (maybe too
many looks?) and cannot find any measurements for exactly where to place
the baffle on the spar (root to tip). I can see the 7/8" spacer
necessary for the space between baffle and spar. Can anyone point me in
the right direction, please? I know this would probably have bitten me
if it were a snake, but... Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ve7fp(at)jetstream.net (Ken Hoshowski) |
Craig: A good friend of mine Eustace Bowhay, has a 0320-E2D , first run, 0
time ,fixed pitch available. He is the gentleman who put the RV6 on floats
and now on amphib. floats. He is not always the cheapest, but he doesn't
sell any junk. He is an old bush pilot and he is meticulous about his
engines. He can be reached at 250-675-4428. I will also post this on the
RV list, but will give you a couple hours headstart.
regards
Ken ve7fp(at)jetstream.net
----------
> From: Anne B. Hiers <worldnet.att.net!CRAIG-RV-4.@matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc: craig-rv-4.@worldnet.att.net
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access Hole
> Date: Friday, January 17, 1997 8:53 AM
>
<CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Dr John Cocker wrote:
> >
> >
> > Dick, I seem to remember that I cut mine in situ, I found the size of
hole
> > into which I could insert my hand.
> > Incidentally, I am covering the holes with circles of perspex, so I can
see
> > through, and check the attachments without unscewing a plate.
> > John
>
> John
> Can you tell me what perspex is, and where I can get some.
> The idea of being able to look at the pushrod-elevator
> connection before every flight is comforting.
>
> Craig Hiers
> RV-4 143CH
> Airframe is almost done, is there a good O-320 left in this world?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Flange bolts and c/s prop... |
>From someone completely ignorant of c/s props...
I've noticed Van's c/s prop offerings for O-320's use 7/16" flange bolts. I
have come across two engines, O-320A1A & O-320E3D which I am interested in.
According to the Lycoming engine data sheet, both of these are setup for c/s
props and have 3/8" flanges.
I initially want to start with a wood prop, then later install a c/s. Are
there 3/8" flange bolt c/s props available? Are they okay for aerobatics
(light stuff)?
Thanks,
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
(last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d shipman <innovate(at)dallas.net> |
Hello everyone:
Regarding the RV illustrations please check URL:
http://rv.austin.apple.com/jhovan/RV-6Specs.gif
This is John Hovan's RV homepage (http://rv.austin.apple.com/jhovan/home.html)
under the specifications section.
David Shipman
Happy Bottom Riding Club Life Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Email problems |
Hi all,
These network things get complex and sometimes errors occur. There are things
we can do to ease the pain.
Sending mail - if you attach something, say in body what it is. I am on a Sun
Solaris Deskset environment and often delete attachments because it is too much
work to try to figure out what kind of doc the attachment is.
Reading mail - if you can read the attachment, delete it or ask sender (not
list!) what it is. If you get double mail, press "Delete" and stay calm.
Hal Kempthorne Emergency pager ##########
Senior Alliance Engineer Regular phone & pager #########
Sybase, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex.peterson(at)deltec.com |
>Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 16:25:50 CST-6
| Subject: | In-lb Torque Wrench |
RV List post by alex.peterson(at)deltec.com RV6A fuse skin
I am using a 1/4 inch drive click torque wrench which goes down to about =20
10 or 15 in-lbs. It is made (sold) by Michigan Industrial Tools (MIT), =20
their model number 2432, cost about $35 at an auto parts store. Far east =20=
=20
manufactured, calibration verified to within an in-lb or two using =20
weights. I'd buy it again. =20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inst. panel mods |
>
>Is the RV-4 instrument panel a structural member? I would like to =
>modify the lower edges of the panel to accommodate my overlong legs. I =
>assume that the lower flange of the panel is the structural part, and =
>some means of carrying the shear and compressive loads would have to be =
Or RV-8? I'm not that far along (long sigh), but this is a concern of mine
as well.
Also, did you use MIME to post this? Not real important, but it's kind of
like having a gnat flying by my face everytime my mail reader picks up the
"=" at the end of each line.
Mike Weller RV 80187 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Email problems [Please Read!] |
>--------------
>
>Hi all,
>
>These network things get complex and sometimes errors occur. There are things
>we can do to ease the pain.
>
>Sending mail - if you attach something, say in body what it is. I am on a Sun
>Solaris Deskset environment and often delete attachments because it is too much
>work to try to figure out what kind of doc the attachment is.
>
>Reading mail - if you can read the attachment, delete it or ask sender (not
>list!) what it is. If you get double mail, press "Delete" and stay calm.
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne Emergency pager ##########
>Senior Alliance Engineer Regular phone & pager #########
>Sybase, Inc.
>
>--------------
According to the RV-List Usage Guidelines, enclosures of anykind are not
suppose to be posted to the list at all!
If you have a file that might have wide interest, I can put it up on the
Matronics FTP server.
PLEASE DON'T SEND ENCLOSURES TO THE RV-LIST!
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Monitor& Tall Pilot Panel |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
About a week ago, Rob Acker queried my earlier comments that the AV-10
cost about half the RMI engine monitor and provided some recent price
quotes. I've been away, so I haven't had a chance to look further into
the matter, but I did check my invoice, which did indeed show prices
about half of the quote Rob has gotten. I do recall that I had gotten a
show special and I did a bit of negotiating, but the difference still
surprises me. Perhaps I'll call AFA direct and see if better prices
can't be arranged for RVers. I'll let you know more in about two weeks
time.
Darrell Anderson, 6ft 4in., asked about cutting into the RV panel. I'm
6 ft. 3 in., and I increased the depth of my RV-4 panel by two inches
and still have reasonable knee room. I suspect you won't have a
problem. Perhaps you can find a tall friends airplane to try on for
size.
How thrilling to read a week's worth of tax and liability postings.
Didn't the US get founded because the tax on tea in Boston was too high?
I guess tax revolts are just naturally bred in Americans. The motto
at the time was "No taxation without representation", as I remember from
school days. Taxes don't seem much better with representation, do they.
This last is meant as a wry joke, in case it isn't obvious.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d shipman <innovate(at)dallas.net> |
Hello George and Welcome to Texas:
I am a working on a few different projects;
1. I have a large collection of aircraft photos that I am digitizing for
my homepage and I would like to include more RV's.
2. I would also like to submit photos for Van's calendar and newsletter.
3. I have also wondered if RV owners or RV fans would be interested
in purchasing photographic prints or digital images (on disk for home
computer viewing).
4. Would RV owners or RV fans be interested in a newletter that is more
picture oriented (a newsletter with more photos and less technical
information).
Any feedback would be appreciated.
David Shipman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RIB END FLANGE REPLACEMENT |
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
Hi George,
I agree that 3/16 is too long to shim. On mine, I cut the ends
off, fabricated pieces out of rib flanges from rejected ribs (the
learning curve can be steep). I clamped these pieces to where I wanted
them so everything would be snug, lined up properly and marked for
drilling.
On your HS-405 ribs, you will need 4 rivets on the flange to the
HS-602 spar. There are 2 rivets through the spar web for the nose rib,
and 1 rivet through each of the splice angles. I'm not sure it matters
for this, but my kit is the old fashioned one without the prepunches.
Hope this can help you.
Allan Pomeroy Central NY
AB6A(at)juno.com
Riveting H.S. Skeleton
writes:
><72714.2663(at)CompuServe.COM>
>
>I would appreciate information on replacing the end flanges on ribs
>and the end
>flange on the HS-602 stabilizer front spar.
>
>The instructions state that if stabilizer forward spar HS-602 is too
>long and
>forces the tip ribs apart the flanges at the end should be removed and
>new ones
>fabricated, then rivited on in correct position, and if HS-602 is too
>short,
>shims may be added.
>
>My HS-602 was 3/16 short at both ends and I considered this was
>excessive
>distance to shim, therefore I have decided to add longer end flanges
>on the
>HS-602.
>
>I also found that when I lined up the centerline marks on the HS-405
>ribs with
>the rivet holes in HS-601PP pre punched skin and drilled through
>forward spar
>splice angle HS-614 into the HS-405 rib end flange I was too close to
>web of
>rib, about 1/8 inch on worst hole.
>
>So now I also plan to replace forward end flanges on both HS-405.
>
>There is no information on new end flanges in plans and AC 43-13 does
>not
>directly cover same.
>
>I plan to make new end flange out of .032 2024-T3 dimensons 5/8 in. on
>flange
>end and 3/4 in. against rib web. I plan to use single row of 1/8
>rivets with 6
>to 8 diameter spacing. Three rivets on web of HS-602 spar and 4 rivets
>on web of
>HS-405.
>
>Thanks for info.
>
>George McNutt HS - RV6A
>Mostly standing around staring at that steep learning curve!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Scott,
That some one was me! Thanks for the safty tip, however I have used my fly
cutter and 3/4" drill with much success. Believe it or not I still have all
my fingers to. The key to this is like anything else do it with caution!
Ryan Bendure RV4131RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: In-lb Torque Wrench |
You all just be advised that when you torque the self locking nuts
you need to account for the 'drag' of the elastic stop nut friction.
On these low torque nuts (AN3 bolts), this could throw off your
measurement and cause you to undertorque the nuts.
Also, don't trust a 'click' type torque wrence for things like
tightening up rod bolts on an engine OH as you need to hold the torque
on the nut for a while and the click type wrenches do not allow that.
Herman
>
>
> RV List post by alex.peterson(at)deltec.com RV6A fuse skin
>
> I am using a 1/4 inch drive click torque wrench which goes down to about =20
> 10 or 15 in-lbs. It is made (sold) by Michigan Industrial Tools (MIT), =20
> their model number 2432, cost about $35 at an auto parts store. Far east =20=
> =20
> manufactured, calibration verified to within an in-lb or two using =20
> weights. I'd buy it again. =20
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flange bolts and c/s prop... |
I don't know for sure, but I doubt it.
However, you can always replace the bushings in the crank flange with the
proper size bushing. For example you can replace the 3/8inch bushings
with 7/16 inch bushings on an O320. They are not cheap but it can
be done. I replaced a set on my pitts as the threads were sloppy.
I heated the crank flange a little and was able to tap out the old
bushings. I think they also make a special too to press them out
(or you can make a tool of some sort using a big socket on the back
and some form of C clamp).
Herman
>
> >From someone completely ignorant of c/s props...
>
> I've noticed Van's c/s prop offerings for O-320's use 7/16" flange bolts. I
> have come across two engines, O-320A1A & O-320E3D which I am interested in.
> According to the Lycoming engine data sheet, both of these are setup for c/s
> props and have 3/8" flanges.
>
> I initially want to start with a wood prop, then later install a c/s. Are
> there 3/8" flange bolt c/s props available? Are they okay for aerobatics
> (light stuff)?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
> http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
> (last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 524/download problem |
>
>>
Hey ya'll,
Bob, your last post showed up twice. Please don't get me wrong, I'm just
curious about the "Bad attachment decode" messages that we're getting. Gene
was interested also. I've forwarded the messages to my workplace. My
specialty is telemetry, but I have some good tools there, and some really
bright associates who love to look at stuff like this.
Enough said, I'll let it drop until we've found a solution. The only reason
that I haven't just responded by personal e-mail is that there might be some
lurkers who would be interested in the solution.
Mike Weller RV 80187 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JUNO - FREE EMAIL SERVICE |
>Email ONLY, no attachments, and its FREE..... Copies of the FREE
>software can be had from JUNO by writing to signup(at)juno.com
>and requesting a copy. Or get it from somebody else that is
>currently using it as JUNO allows it to be freely distributed.
I was on Juno and just got my 800 number cut off, which was free
for the rural areas. If you live in a rural area away from one of their
nodes, there is a long distance call involved with each time you log
onto their system. If you're lucky enough to live near one of their
nodes, it's great. I've been on the net for one week because I was
cut off from the 800 number. Without that bad stroke of luck, I'd
have never found you guys and gals! Yes, it was free, with a local
node; and, the editors are pretty good. The spell checker was great!
Jim Sears
RV-6A (wings almost done, awaiting fuse)
Grumman-American Cheetah N26276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morristec(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Engine Timing/ LSI |
Listers,
I am installing a Light Speed Engineering ignition system on a 0-320 E2A =
with
high compression ratio pistons (160hp) and Airflow Performance fuel
injection. The LSI system uses the basic magneto timing as a reference. =
The
stock basic mag timing for the -E2A is 25=B0 BTC but with the modificatio=
ns I
am wondering what to use. I think the timing for the 160 hp O-320's is 2=
0=B0.
Can anyone confirm this? Does anyone have experience with the O-320 in =
this
configuration, and what timing did you find satisfactory? =20
Thanks in advance,
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)aol.com (now know as slow-go.com)=20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ve7fp(at)jetstream.net (Ken Hoshowski) |
Jan 17/97 7:41 AM... Craig Hiers writes
"Airframe almost done, is there a
good 0-320 left in this
world"
I am posting this for fellow RV builder Eustace Bowhay. This is the
gentleman who put his RV6 on floats and now on amphib. floats. He has for
sale
0-320 E2D 0 time (first run) Fixed pitch
He can be reached at 250 675-4428.
Ken ve7fp(at)jetstream.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Flange bolts and c/s prop... |
Rob,
What you want to do is to replace the 'nuts' that are pressed into the prop
flange with the nuts for the 7/16" bolts. These 'nuts' cost around $30.00
each new but you should be able to get them from a salvage yard for around
$15.00 each. Still expensive but not quite as much.
To remove the old nuts from your flange you need to use a long socket that
is big enough to fit over the back of the nuts. Use a bolt and washer in
the square hole in the back of the socket and 'pull' the nut from the
flange. Use the same method to install the new nuts in your flange.
One of the new nuts will be probably have to be shortened slightly to fit
into the prop hub. I'm sure you could use a file or grinder to do that; be
sure to polish the end after shortening the nut.
>
>>From someone completely ignorant of c/s props...
>
>I've noticed Van's c/s prop offerings for O-320's use 7/16" flange bolts. I
>have come across two engines, O-320A1A & O-320E3D which I am interested in.
>According to the Lycoming engine data sheet, both of these are setup for c/s
>props and have 3/8" flanges.
>
>I initially want to start with a wood prop, then later install a c/s. Are
>there 3/8" flange bolt c/s props available? Are they okay for aerobatics
>(light stuff)?
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
>(last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures)
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
>
>Craig: A good friend of mine Eustace Bowhay, has a 0320-E2D , first run, 0
>time ,fixed pitch available. He is the gentleman who put the RV6 on floats
>and now on amphib. floats. He is not always the cheapest, but he doesn't
>sell any junk. He is an old bush pilot and he is meticulous about his
>engines. He can be reached at 250-675-4428. I will also post this on the
>RV list, but will give you a couple hours headstart.
>
>regards
>Ken ve7fp(at)jetstream.net
>
>
I'll second Ken's opinion of Eustace for two reasons.
First, Eustace is the kind of guy that would never even think of cheating
anyone; it isn't in him to do that.
Second, I've known Ken and his wife, Marge, for about 7 or 8 years now and
Ken is not only honest; he's also one of the few men that I know that can
tell as many jokes as my wife and never repeat himself. I stand in awe when
the two of them get started.
Craig, ask Eustace about the time he took his extended family for a months
vacation in his DC-3 traveling from Canada through the US into Central
America. It's quite a story. He's one of the few people that have flown a
DC-3 on floats, also.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: In-lb Torque Wrench |
I gotta add two cents...
> You all just be advised that when you torque the self locking nuts
> you need to account for the 'drag' of the elastic stop nut friction.
> On these low torque nuts (AN3 bolts), this could throw off your
> measurement and cause you to undertorque the nuts.
You can see how much this amounts to by reading the wrench before the nut hits
bottom. Not much is it?
>
> Also, don't trust a 'click' type torque wrence for things like
> tightening up rod bolts on an engine OH as you need to hold the torque
> on the nut for a while and the click type wrenches do not allow that.
>
Man, I've screwed up a lot of engines, then.
Hal Kempthorne halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. (SJC)
Debonair N6134V RV-6AQ on order!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jordan <ace(at)pacifier.com> |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC04AC.9826D8E0
Yes to #'s 3 and 4.
----------
From: d shipman[SMTP:dallas.net!innovate(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Friday, January 17, 1997 2:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Texas RV photos
Hello George and Welcome to Texas:
I am a working on a few different projects;
1. I have a large collection of aircraft photos that I am digitizing for
my homepage and I would like to include more RV's.
2. I would also like to submit photos for Van's calendar and newsletter.
3. I have also wondered if RV owners or RV fans would be interested
in purchasing photographic prints or digital images (on disk for home
computer viewing).
4. Would RV owners or RV fans be interested in a newletter that is more
picture oriented (a newsletter with more photos and less technical
information).
Any feedback would be appreciated.
David Shipman
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC04AC.9826D8E0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 wings for sale |
Fellow RVers,
I just got off the phone with my friend, Art Chard. As most of you know,
Art worked for Van's for quite a few years and is now retired. Art built
the first "RV-6" by mating a fuselage of his own design to RV-4 wings. He
also built the factory RVs.
Anyway, he is building RV stuff now to keep busy in his retirement. He
has two sets of RV-4 wings for sale. They feature one piece top skins (no
seam), Harold wing tips (with, I believe, 1/4 foam sandwich construction)
which are very "straight" and attached with nutplates, one tank has a flop
tube and the wings are wired for strobes/nav/landing lights & fuel sender.
He is asking $11,500 per pair. If you are interested, his phone number is
503-647-9803. He still lives in North Plains, so is on Pacific time.
Hope it's OK to post this. Art is a great guy, a straight shooter and a
great craftsman. He doesn't have access to the list so I told him I'd post
this for him.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Just thought I'd throw in my .02 about the access hole. I cut mine out
with a fly cutter. If you have large hands you may want to cut a
rectangular hole with a nibbler. A circular hole is small after you
account for the backing and placement inside the longerons and
j-channels. Also, I have a friend who just finished a scratch built
SE5A (WW1) Eddy Rickenbacker bi-plane type. He installed clear
polycarbonate inspection covers over all his critical areas. I cut a
couple of circular covers for my access holes and beveled the edges for
a smooth transition from the 1/8" cover to the side skin. I plan on
flying with the transparent access cover on one side only, at least for
a while.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | torque technique |
Herman Dierks writes:
Also, don't trust a 'click' type torque wrench for things like tightening up rod
bolts on an
engine OH as you need to hold the torque on the nut for a while and the click type
wrenches do
not allow that.
-----------------------------------
Very interesting Herman. I have never heard about the "hold" technique before.
It makes sense
but could you site your reference or where you picked up that technique? I re-torque
on things
like (auto) heads that are bearing down on a composite gasket. I have found that
after a day or
two the gasket takes a set and the bolt will move an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn
when re-checking
torque. How do I know that? I mark the original, torqued position with a felt
pen and then note
the difference when I re-torque. In the last couple of years I have been using
a stretch gage on
rod bolts and impart a load of 0.006" stretch (for the bolts I use). On metal-to-metal
parts (in
particular rod bolts) I have never found them to move at all (after countless re-checks)
and I
don't re-check them anymore. Never had a problem either.
I find your technique interesting and would like to know a little more background.
Please reply
privately. At almost 60 messages a day the list is approaching critical mass :).
Thanks,
elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dieck(at)apexcomm.net (Robert Dieck) |
I finished my wings about 6 mo age. Built a box for storage out of luaun
plywood and moved the whole works into an unheated builting. Last night I
brought the wings in to fit the landing gear. I noticed something on the
screws for the fuel tanks. At first it looked like corrosion (white powder)
but it is on the steel plated parts only, including all the bolts for the
spreaders. Closer checking of this powder shows it to be yellow colored and
kind of sticky. No primed Steel (Heated pitot bracket) or alu., including
rivets show any evidence. The only thing I and my cousin (IA) can figure out
is that the luaun which still stinks of formaldahyde reacted to the plating.
Well now I get to replace all the steel in my wings. I thought I would spend
the money for the material to build a box to help protect my parts till
needed. Luaun was the cheapest (yea right) thing to do this. I would have
been better just hanging them against the wall.
2 steps forward 1 step back.
The Airplane Factory
Robert/Tammie Dieck
Wausau WI USA
dieck(at)apexcomm.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d shipman <innovate(at)dallas.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 wings for sale |
>
>Fellow RVers,
> I just got off the phone with my friend, Art Chard. As most of you know,
>Art worked for Van's for quite a few years and is now retired. Art built
>the first "RV-6" by mating a fuselage of his own design to RV-4 wings. He
>also built the factory RVs.
>
> Art is a great guy, a straight shooter and a
>great craftsman. He doesn't have access to the list so I told him I'd post
>this for him.
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
>
Hello everyone:
I noticed in the latest Aero Trader that the Chard-6 is for sale.
$45k phone # 801-673-3821
David Shipman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing storage |
You wrote:
>
>
>I finished my wings about 6 mo age. Built a box for storage out of luaun
>plywood <> I noticed something on the
>screws for the fuel tanks. <> Luaun was the cheapest (yea right) thing
to do this. I would have
>been better just hanging them against the wall.
>2 steps forward 1 step back.
>
>Robert/Tammie Dieck
My condolences, Robert, but thanks for passing along the info.
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Want an extra hour and a half of energy per day with Super Blue
Green products? Email for info or call 800-325-7544 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flange bolts and c/s prop... |
Bill writes:
I am just as ignorant as some of the others, but there are a couple of
things to keep in mind; I believe Lyc does not recommend bumping certain
engines from 150 up to 160 hp. Could it be that the O-320 with the small
front bearing (bushing) is recommended as 150, while the engines with the
large bearing are designed for 160 hp? Another scenario would be the large
front bushing engines were designed for carrying the heavier c/s props and
typically these have 7/16 threaded bushings (nuts). I am sure there are
some old/early design c/s props out there with 3/8 bolts, but maybe someone
can tell us if there are many. As far as the front bearing goes, I would
not hesitate to bump an engine up to 160 because many have been done in the
field, but I don't know about swinging a heavy prop on the small bearing.
Bill
>Rob,
>
>What you want to do is to replace the 'nuts' that are pressed into the prop
>flange with the nuts for the 7/16" bolts. These 'nuts' cost around $30.00
>each new but you should be able to get them from a salvage yard for around
>$15.00 each. Still expensive but not quite as much.
>
>To remove the old nuts from your flange you need to use a long socket that
>is big enough to fit over the back of the nuts. Use a bolt and washer in
>the square hole in the back of the socket and 'pull' the nut from the
>flange. Use the same method to install the new nuts in your flange.
>
>One of the new nuts will be probably have to be shortened slightly to fit
>into the prop hub. I'm sure you could use a file or grinder to do that; be
>sure to polish the end after shortening the nut.
>
>
>>>From someone completely ignorant of c/s props...
>>
>>I've noticed Van's c/s prop offerings for O-320's use 7/16" flange bolts. I
>>have come across two engines, O-320A1A & O-320E3D which I am interested in.
>>According to the Lycoming engine data sheet, both of these are setup for c/s
>>props and have 3/8" flanges.
>>
>>I initially want to start with a wood prop, then later install a c/s. Are
>>there 3/8" flange bolt c/s props available? Are they okay for aerobatics
>>(light stuff)?
>>
>>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
>John Ammeter
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <pilla(at)exit109.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flange bolts and c/s prop... |
>engines from 150 up to 160 hp. Could it be that the O-320 with the small
>front bearing (bushing) is recommended as 150, while the engines with the
>large bearing are designed for 160 hp? Another scenario would be the large
>front bushing engines were designed for carrying the heavier c/s props and
>typically these have 7/16 threaded bushings (nuts). I am sure there are
>some old/early design c/s props out there with 3/8 bolts, but maybe someone
>can tell us if there are many. As far as the front bearing goes, I would
>not hesitate to bump an engine up to 160 because many have been done in the
>field, but I don't know about swinging a heavy prop on the small bearing.
There are two things one can do about the paired small bearings on the
150hp engines (original bearing design was for the O-235, I believe):
1) have a reputable shop machine the case for the single larger bearing
2) exchange case halves for a 160hp version
Both options cost about $200-$300, typically.
Michael Pilla
pilla(at)exit109.com
v: (908) 566-7604
f: (908) 566-7936
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor& Tall Pilot Panel |
>
>About a week ago, Rob Acker queried my earlier comments that the AV-10
>cost about half the RMI engine monitor and provided some recent price
>quotes. I've been away, so I haven't had a chance to look further into
>the matter, but I did check my invoice, which did indeed show prices
>about half of the quote Rob has gotten.
Hi Ron,
Please let us know what you find out. I will be attending sun'n'fun to shop
for my complete panel/engine/prop/etc., would be nice to know I can haggle a
bit. If you really got yours for half of the $1100 quoted me I'll buy one
in a second.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q Project:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
(last updated 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 photos)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Lewis <lewy(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flange bolts and c/s prop... |
Bill Benedict wrote:
>
>
> Bill writes:
> I am just as ignorant as some of the others, but there are a couple of
> things to keep in mind; I believe Lyc does not recommend bumping certain
> engines from 150 up to 160 hp. Could it be that the O-320 with the small
> front bearing (bushing) is recommended as 150, while the engines with the
> large bearing are designed for 160 hp? Another scenario would be the large
> front bushing engines were designed for carrying the heavier c/s props and
> typically these have 7/16 threaded bushings (nuts). I am sure there are
> some old/early design c/s props out there with 3/8 bolts, but maybe someone
> can tell us if there are many. As far as the front bearing goes, I would
> not hesitate to bump an engine up to 160 because many have been done in the
> field, but I don't know about swinging a heavy prop on the small bearing.
> Bill
>
> >Rob,
> >
> >What you want to do is to replace the 'nuts' that are pressed into the prop
> >flange with the nuts for the 7/16" bolts. These 'nuts' cost around $30.00
> >each new but you should be able to get them from a salvage yard for around
> >$15.00 each. Still expensive but not quite as much.
> >
> >To remove the old nuts from your flange you need to use a long socket that
> >is big enough to fit over the back of the nuts. Use a bolt and washer in
> >the square hole in the back of the socket and 'pull' the nut from the
> >flange. Use the same method to install the new nuts in your flange.
> >
> >One of the new nuts will be probably have to be shortened slightly to fit
> >into the prop hub. I'm sure you could use a file or grinder to do that; be
> >sure to polish the end after shortening the nut.
> >
> >
>
> >>>From someone completely ignorant of c/s props...
> >>
> >>I've noticed Van's c/s prop offerings for O-320's use 7/16" flange bolts.
I
> >>have come across two engines, O-320A1A & O-320E3D which I am interested in.
> >>According to the Lycoming engine data sheet, both of these are setup for c/s
> >>props and have 3/8" flanges.
> >>
> >>I initially want to start with a wood prop, then later install a c/s. Are
> >>there 3/8" flange bolt c/s props available? Are they okay for aerobatics
> >>(light stuff)?
> >>
> >>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
>
> >John Ammeter
>
> Bill
> RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
> flying hours.
> These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
> position of my employer.
I'm also ignorant about this subject and missed the first part of the
thread, but another important thing would be that the engine is equipped
with the knock out crank as opposed to the solid crank. My O-320 E2D
150 hp has a solid crank and can't be fitted with a C/S prop. The reason
I add this is that someone may have changed cranks in the engines past.
Just a thought.
lewy(at)pacbell.net
__________|__________
\ \_0_/ /
__\___(_+_)___/__
|/ \|
|...........................|
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 wings for sale |
<< I just got off the phone with my friend, Art Chard. As most of you
know,
Art worked for Van's for quite a few years and is now retired. Art built
the first "RV-6" by mating a fuselage of his own design to RV-4 wings. He
also built the factory RVs. >>
Just a side note. That Chard-vans RV-6, serial number 2, resides in St.
George, Utah. I heard that it is a # 2 because Vans reserved the number 1.
But it looks like it has a RV-3 tail, RV-4 wings, and a T18 canopy (slider).
I saw it with all the panels off getting a 100 hour. I hope mine looks that
good when it is that old.
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
It's warmer today, maybe I'll get some work done in the garage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Inst. panel mods |
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: MiDiBu
>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell L. Anderson"
>
>Is the RV-4 instrument panel a structural member? I would like to =3D =
>modify the lower edges of the panel to accommodate my overlong legs. I =
=3D
>assume that the lower flange of the panel is the structural part, and =
=3D
>some means of carrying the shear and compressive loads would have to be =
=3D<-----THIS STUFF?
>SNIP<
>Also, did you use MIME to post this? Not real important, but it's kind =
of
>like having a gnat flying by my face everytime my mail reader picks up =
the
>"=3D" at the end of each line.
>Mike Weller RV 80187 (under construction)
| Date: | Jan 18, 1997 |
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: Texas RV photos |
>1. I have a large collection of aircraft photos that I am digitizing for
> my homepage and I would like to include more RV's.
>Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
>
>Attachment converted: Hobenshield:RE- RV-List- Texas RV photos (????/----)
>(00004A39)
The attachments you sent caused MIME encoding error messages when I
downloaded my mail. In my quest for knowledge of how and why things work or
not...I'm curious as to what format and what mailer you used.
I have sent photo attachments successfully to people using various systems
by sending them as .gif images.
Shirley Hobenshield shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca
Kitwanga Elementary Jr. Secondary School
Kitwanga, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Butcher <rbutch(at)inreach.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing storage |
Robert Dieck wrote:
>
>
> I finished my wings about 6 mo age. Built a box for storage out of luaun
> plywood and moved the whole works into an unheated builting. Last night I
> brought the wings in to fit the landing gear. I noticed something on the
> screws for the fuel tanks. At first it looked like corrosion (white powder)
> but it is on the steel plated parts only, including all the bolts for the
> spreaders. Closer checking of this powder shows it to be yellow colored and
> kind of sticky. No primed Steel (Heated pitot bracket) or alu., including
> rivets show any evidence. The only thing I and my cousin (IA) can figure out
> is that the luaun which still stinks of formaldahyde reacted to the plating.
> Well now I get to replace all the steel in my wings. I thought I would spend
> the money for the material to build a box to help protect my parts till
> needed. Luaun was the cheapest (yea right) thing to do this. I would have
> been better just hanging them against the wall.
> 2 steps forward 1 step back.
>
> The Airplane Factory
> Robert/Tammie Dieck
> Wausau WI USA
> dieck(at)apexcomm.netRobert..I have noticed a similar powder on unplated parts which
have
been closed-up for a period of time. I have corrolated this with the
used of some of the polyurethane finishes (i.e. Varathane)> In confined
spaces, they outgas something which seems to cause this white powder.
Please let me know what you find out with your situation.
Ron Butcher
Turlock, Calif.
rbutch(at)inreach.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torque technique |
>
>Herman Dierks writes:
>Also, don't trust a 'click' type torque wrench for things like tightening
up rod bolts on an
>engine OH as you need to hold the torque on the nut for a while and the
click type wrenches do
>not allow that.
>-----------------------------------
>
>Very interesting Herman. I have never heard about the "hold" technique
before. It makes sense
>but could you site your reference or where you picked up that technique?
Elon,
... Herman's quote comes straight out of the Lycoming Overhaul
Manual for their 4 cyl. engines.
They require that a specific torque be reached, and then held for at
least 30 seconds, ruling out the use of "click type" wrenches.
It has been discussed several times before in the archives.
.... Gil (need to get a new torque wrench) Alexander
RV6A, #20701 ... newly constructed tail fibreglass fairing being sanded
>Thanks,
>elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------
gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 wings for sale |
aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Just a side note. That Chard-vans RV-6, serial number 2, resides in St.
> George, Utah. I heard that it is a # 2 because Vans reserved the number 1.
> But it looks like it has a RV-3 tail, RV-4 wings, and a T18 canopy (slider).
> I saw it with all the panels off getting a 100 hour. I hope mine looks that
> good when it is that old.
> Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
This is interesting because I was not aware that Art had built another
Chard-6 Actually the other Chard RV-6 is right here in Hillsboro. OR
and is owned by Carl Battjes, I used to watch it come in and get fuel
where I used to flight instruct and it was this airplane that inspired
me to build a RV-6. I wish I had read this post earlier because I had
breakfast with Art this morning (SAT.) and could have asked him about
the two airplanes.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
If anyone has or knows of someone who has a nice RV-4 for sale, please e-mail
me or call (610) 668-4964. I am looking for an east coast aircraft, with a
basic VFR configuration. If you plan to go to "Sun-and-Fun", I may wait. If
you are hot to sell now, I'll fly to your location ASAP. Thanks.
Lou Willig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
After much delay, I'm finally re-starting my fuselage (RV-4). I have found
a discrepancy between the plans and the part that I am working on. The
dimensions in question are in the 2 F-402 side pieces. The plans call for
a dimension of 5 inches in height where the two side pieces
(F-402BR-F402BL) join the center section (F402A). My pieces both measure 4
3/4 inches. A piece of .063 angle is riveted flush with the top of both of
these pieces. Is this a problem? What attaches to those angles? In
looking ahead in the plans, this appears to be a support for the floor.
Joe Rex
RV-4
Starting Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVE BERGH" <DBERGH(at)CYBERHIGHWAY.NET> |
----------
> Hi Everyone!
>
> I just want to send a quick note to the list to tell everyone that
> contributes thank you for helping
> me make the decision to build an RV-6. I have been following the topics
> for a couple of weeks now and am very impressed by the willingness of the
> builders to help pass on info to us 'neophytes'!
> I consider myself fairly handy with tools etc. but have no aircraft
> building experience and was quite overwhelmed by the complexity when I
> recieved my tail kit. I'm still trying to gather necessary
> tools so I can actually get started. Any advice in this department would
be
> greatly appreciated.
> On a side note, any time I download a message from 'Darrel Anderson'
It
never
> contains text, only an address and subject message.
> Any one else have this happen? Or is it something with my system? (I'm
no expert with this computer either!)
Thanks Everyone,
Dave Bergh.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVE BERGH" <DBERGH(at)CYBERHIGHWAY.NET> |
Hi Everyone!
I just want to send a quick note to the list to tell everyone that
contributes thank you for helping
me make the decision to build an RV-6. I have been following the topics
for a couple of weeks now and am very impressed by the willingness of the
builders to help pass on info to us 'neophytes'!
I consider myself fairly handy with tools etc. but have no aircraft
building experience and was quite overwhelmed by the complexity when I
recieved my tail kit. I'm still trying to gather necessary
tools so I can actually get started. Any advice in this department would be
greatly appreciated.
On a side note, any time 'Darrel Anderson' posts a message It never
contains text when
it. Any one else have this happen?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
I'm planning to order a bunch of stuff from Wicks (or ACS) and I need advice
on the brand and quantity of fiberglass I'll need to complete my 6A. I need
to glass the wing tip lights on to the wing tips, then do the sliding canopy
glass work, the cowling glass work, and any glass work required to fix the
empenage fairing. There's probably other glass work I don't know about.
What brand of epoxy resin/hardener would users recommend?
Fast cure or slow cure (West System sells both)?
How much should I buy?
How much cloth should I buy?
My first guess is:
- 1.2 Quart kit of West Systems 105 epoxy resin with slow (206)hardener
(30-40 min pot life)
- Cool little pumps to make mixing easy
- 1.7 oz West Systems microlight
- 2" fiberglass tape, (50 yds long), 8.7 oz
- 3" roll of peel ply
- 7" x14" x 4" block of blue foam (to form curved piece where nose gear meets
cowling as shown in Orndorff video)
- lots of gloves
Suggestions please!
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Root Fairing Confusion |
Listers,
The only instructions I can find regarding the wing root fairings say
"Since the RV-6 wing/fuselage instersection approximates this
condition (90 intersection) back to a point around the rear spar
attach, we provide simple, flat aluminum fairings. They are a
compromise of esthetics, building ease, and aerodynamic
efficiency."
This isn't an instruction, it's a description. Is there some other
instruction somewhere else?
The only drawing I can find that mentions the fairings is sheet 46. It
depicts a 69" long piece of aluminum. It shows no detail on attaching the
fairing to the wing or fuselage.
I'd sure appreciate help on figuring out how the wing fairing fits into the
big picture. Right now I can't tell if I'm supposed to rivet it to
something, attach it with bubble gum, or toss it in the baggage compartment.
Does that 12" rubber piece fit in here somewhere?
Thanks,
Tim (frustrated) Lewis
RV-6AQ
TimRV6A(at)aol.com (Always Off Line)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mark jennings" <markjenn(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
>> What brand of epoxy resin/hardener would users recommend? etc......
I'm building a small wood/epoxy boat right now (a "do I really like spending
25-hrs a week in the garage" test) and have researched and used both the West
System and System Three. Both are fine, althought I like the West System a
little better.
If you live in an area with a good marine supply store (I use West Marine in
the Seattle area), I'd just buy fiberglassing supplies as you go rather than
trying to anticipate now what you'll need in a year or two. I haven't
compared, but I doubt places like Wicks are cheaper than a good marine
discount store anyway. My experience is that it is very difficult to
anticipate what you'll want/need at a future date. And I like to use fresh
resin. The right hardener is VERY temperature depenedent. So I just get what
I need as I go along.
Another tip I learned at the marine stores. After mixing this stuff up, don't
hold the cup in the palm of your hand. Your 45 min pot life at 60 deg will go
to 10 min at 90 deg hand temperature.
Your list looks basically right + all the safety gear (gloves, respirator,
maybe even a disposable suit if you are really allergic or paranoid). I'd
also get the West System technical manual - great book.
- Mark (considering RV-8)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: Flange bolts and c/s prop... |
"r.acker" wrote:
>I've noticed Van's c/s prop offerings for O-320's use 7/16" flange bolts. I
>have come across two engines, O-320A1A & O-320E3D which I am interested in.
>According to the Lycoming engine data sheet, both of these are setup for c/s
>props and have 3/8" flanges.
>
>I initially want to start with a wood prop, then later install a c/s. Are
>there 3/8" flange bolt c/s props available? Are they okay for aerobatics
>(light stuff)?
Lycoming Service Bulletin 253A specifies that the 3/8-inch prop flange
bushings should be replaced with 7/16-inch bushings. This should not be a
big deal and can be done while the crank is in the engine and on the
aircraft. SB 253 describes the procedure for removing the old ones, and
also specifies the part numbers of the new 7/16 bushings.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
Hey, Tim: about the fiberglass stuff:
>What brand of epoxy resin/hardener would users recommend?
I am using AEROPOXY and really like it as it seems to set hard and glom onto
already-cured glass. As with all of them, mixing ratios are important but
can be done by weight or volume. Also seems to cure well at lower ambient
temperatures.
>Fast cure or slow cure (West System sells both)?
AEROPOXY only has one speed.
>How much should I buy?
I have a gallon which I have used 75% of and am almost done with my glass.
>How much cloth should I buy?
I have used 4-5 yards of 8.9oz Crowsfoot weave from ACS which is really easy
to use and heavy enough you don't have to use a ton of it. I remade all my
fairings including wing and tail and glassed the fairings between
gearleg/wheel fairing and fuselage. It's been fun. Right. I love glass. I
love glass.
I also suggest a yard or so of PEELPLY so the finish is easier to, well, finish.
Michael
RV-4 232SQ
mikel(at)dimensional.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Fairing Confusion |
Tim,
Drawing 46 does detail the wing root fairing attach in both the Side View and
Section C-C', calls out using K-1100-08 platenuts and AN509-8R8 Screws at 2
1/2" spacing, as well as laying out a shape for it at the bottom center of the
drawing. The shape can be made to just cover the rivet lines of the tank and
main skins instead of the straight edge which won't lay down flat very well in
the main skin area because of the distance from the screws to the edge. It is
a little bit of a challenge to get it set just right without any puckers in
it, but persevere, you'll get it. And yes, that 12' piece of rubber channel
is what you use between the fairing and the fuselage sides.
Hope this explains it well enough. Sometimes we get to where we can't see the
forest for the trees. A couple of pictures here would help. That's one thing
I took plently of when I was building my first 6A and they sure explained a
lot when I got to each area.
Les Williams
RV-6AQBME #60027
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!TimRV6A(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 1997 2:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Root Fairing Confusion
Listers,
The only instructions I can find regarding the wing root fairings say
"Since the RV-6 wing/fuselage instersection approximates this
condition (90 intersection) back to a point around the rear spar
attach, we provide simple, flat aluminum fairings. They are a
compromise of esthetics, building ease, and aerodynamic
efficiency."
This isn't an instruction, it's a description. Is there some other
instruction somewhere else?
The only drawing I can find that mentions the fairings is sheet 46. It
depicts a 69" long piece of aluminum. It shows no detail on attaching the
fairing to the wing or fuselage.
I'd sure appreciate help on figuring out how the wing fairing fits into the
big picture. Right now I can't tell if I'm supposed to rivet it to
something, attach it with bubble gum, or toss it in the baggage compartment.
Does that 12" rubber piece fit in here somewhere?
Thanks,
Tim (frustrated) Lewis
RV-6AQ
TimRV6A(at)aol.com (Always Off Line)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 slider top skin curve measurements |
Les Williams solved my wing root fairing confusion in one simple email. I've
also received a bunch of great comments on my request for fiberglass advice.
Thanks a lot, gang! Last week I gave a 30 minute presentation on my RV-6AQ
project at EAA Chapter 35's monthly meeting. In my slide show of useful
tools I showed my computer -- because this list is such a great resource.
I hope this one is as easily solved: I'm drilling F-6106 (the forward
fuselage top skin for the sliding canopy RV-6) to the fuselage. Drawing SC-2
depicts a curve trimmed from F-6106 that leaves an approximately 3" overhang
over the instrument panel, and slopes back to an (apparently) undefined
height abeam the roll bar. There's supposed to be a notch cut in F-6106 that
permits the forward part of F-6106 to inside the canopy and the aft section
to be outside the canopy.
Is there a depiction of the measurements of the curve to be trimmed in F-6106
somewhere? Are there any measurements for the placement of the notch? I'm
probably just blind, but I can't find the measurements anywhere.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
TimRV6A(at)aol.com (rotten service R us)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-402 bulkhead |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
Previously written:
The dimensions in question are in the 2 F-402 side pieces. The plans
call for a dimension of 5 inches in height where the two side pieces
(F-402BR-F402BL) join the center section (F402A). My pieces both measure
4 3/4 inches. A piece of .063 angle is riveted flush with the top of
both of these pieces. Is this a problem? What attaches to those angles?
In looking ahead in the plans, this appears to be a support for the
floor.
_____________________
My F-402 did not meet the 5" dimension either; in fact, this bulkhead was
the only one in my fuselage that required shims between the bulkhead and
fuselage skin. Not a biggie - the angles are floor supports, and that
dimension is not critical. HOWEVER, if you have not yet done so, hold off
on attaching the floor support angles to the F-413 assemblies (that form
the tunnel walls between your legs). If all the dimensions are not exact,
these floor support angles will not align with both the ones on F-402 and
the ones on the spar carry-through structure. Mine did not, requiring me
to add shims on the F-413 angles. Better to fit the floor boards between
F-402 and the carry-through, and then position the F-413 angles to fit.
Hope this helps.
(Canopy work)
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Confusion |
>I'd sure appreciate help on figuring out how the wing fairing fits into the
>big picture. Right now I can't tell if I'm supposed to rivet it to
>something, attach it with bubble gum, or toss it in the baggage compartment.
>Does that 12" rubber piece fit in here somewhere?
>Tim (frustrated) Lewis RV-6AQ TimRV6A(at)aol.com (Always Off Line)
Tim,
As I remember the plans (mine are old and "hidden" in my shop) #8 screws
and nutplates are called for and the nut plates rivet to the root ribs and
the tank skin. I used #6 stainless screws as this is not structural and I
like the looks of the smaller screw best and the dimple is smaller. Tip:
when you first drill the fairings on, use a #40 bit and leave it that way as
you fit your fairing and trim for the gap that the rubber channel will fill.
You may want to install and remove the fairing several times while you are
testing the fit of the channel. It took me a lot of trial and fit but I did
get the gap between the fairing and fuselage side just right so the rubber
seal just had light pressure along the whole contact area and I didn't have
to use adhesive (messy).
I also found it helpful to cut a little piece of wood into the shape of
the tip of the nose rib (2-3" long, 5/16" or so thick) and I butted this up
against the fuel tank mount angle on the fuselage and taped it into place.
This helps support the inboard part of the fairing as you make the curve
around the leading edge. Once everything is fitted, you discard the piece
of wood (or save it if you're going to build another RV like I did.) Good luck.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
>I'm planning to order a bunch of stuff from Wicks (or ACS) and I need advice
>on the brand and quantity of fiberglass I'll need to complete my 6A. I need
>to glass the wing tip lights on to the wing tips, then do the sliding canopy
>glass work, the cowling glass work, and any glass work required to fix the
>empenage fairing. There's probably other glass work I don't know about.
>
>What brand of epoxy resin/hardener would users recommend?
>Fast cure or slow cure (West System sells both)?
>How much should I buy?
>How much cloth should I buy?
>
>My first guess is:
>- 1.2 Quart kit of West Systems 105 epoxy resin with slow (206)hardener
>(30-40 min pot life)
>- Cool little pumps to make mixing easy
>- 1.7 oz West Systems microlight
>- 2" fiberglass tape, (50 yds long), 8.7 oz
>- 3" roll of peel ply
>- 7" x14" x 4" block of blue foam (to form curved piece where nose gear meets
>cowling as shown in Orndorff video)
>- lots of gloves
>
>Suggestions please!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim Lewis
>RV-6AQ #60023
Tim,
It looks like you have a pretty complete list. I have no experience with
West epoxy, only Safe T Poxy but others have indicated that they've liked
the West. For cloth, I like to use the 8.92 oz/sq yd, ACS part # 7781-50 as
it has a high thread count which means that it takes less filling than "boat
cloth" because it produces a smoother finish. As far as the amount
needed---5 or 6 feet ??? (50" wide)
I prefer to work with vinyl ester resin as it sets up quicker (but not as
quick as poly ester) so that you can sand it, if needed. Also, with the
vinyl ester you don't have to mess with type A and B resins. The downside
to vinyl ester is that the MEKP catalyst is dangerous stuff. It will burn
skin and if you get it in your eyes it will blind you in 4 seconds. You
will still need to buy epoxy as this is the only resin that should be used
around plexy. You can buy promoted resin from Spruce and it's about half
the cost of West but it doesn't have the shelf life.
The downside to epoxy is that it takes a long time to cure to sand and it
will run off (drip down verticle surfaces) unless you blend in a little
cab-o-sil, which I'm not fond of using. Epoxy does give you time to work,
which is an advantage and doesn't tend to shrink as polyester will.
Speaking of shrinking. I sanded the cowl like you wouldn't believe. I
primed and shot some PPG Durathane. It didn't turn out good so my paint guy
sanded the Durethane and shot another coat. It was perfect, no weave
showing. Now, two years later, the weave is visible. On the other hand, I
made my empanage fairing out of epoxy and so far, no weave is showing.
After spending the last two days doing fiberglass layups in the tail cone
of the Glastar, I'm saying a prayer to the aluminum god for producing
something that Van could build a real airplane out of. (Ooops, forgot.
There's some Glastar guys on the RV-list). You haven't really lived until
you've done some lay ups in an area about the size of the rear fuselage of
the RV-4. (Seems smaller).
Bob Skinner RV-6 Bskinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Bottiglieri <rb(at)ozramp.net.au> |
unsubscibe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Rear of Side Fwd Skins |
How do you fit the rear of the fwd, side, fuse. skins (the 'cone' section)
where it meets the rear skin at the flange of the F-606?
I have trimmed as per the plans, but I still have a large gap between the
'cone' and the rear side skin. Do I simply shim this area (big shims needed!)?.
Thanks
Royce Craven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Ryan,
every fly cutter I have seen says NOT to use it in a hand held drill. I
think using a hole saw might be safer.
Royce Craven
>
>Dick,
>If you want to make the holes round lay a piece of plywood across two saw
>horses, lay the skin on top of the ply wood. Put the area your going to cut
>out in a corner of the plywood and clamp with 2 C clamps on each side of the
>corner. Now use your fly cutter in a hand opperated drill. My fly cutter
>requires a 3/4 inch drill some dont. This has worked well for me. If your
>going with the sqaure hole mark the sqare on your skin. Use a large size
>drill or unibit inside the corners of the sqare for your radius,(4 places)
>from there I take a high speed cutting wheel (air driven or dremel tool) and
>complete the 4 cuts. A little deburing and wala. Hope this is some help.
> Ryan Bendure RV4131RB(at)aol.com
> Builder, Flyer, Builder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DGreen9032(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Jig Construction |
Just apply a little heat on the liquid nails or any other adheasive (I used
body putty) and it will come right off. Daryl Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Confusion |
Tim;
I don't remember where, but there are some instructions for the root trim.
As dumb as I am, I can't imagine that I did it without instructions. Look
closer in the manual and the plans. Yes, the black rubber trim will
eventually fit between the fairing and the fuselage.
Some sticky points- how much room to leave between the fairing and the
fus. to take the rubber. I think I left 3/8 inch, and if to do over, I
would make it 1/4. The other thing that grabs you is where to drill the
holes to take the screws. Often it seems that people have put the rivets in
the wing root rib too close together and then don't have room for the anchor
nuts under the rib flange. I would suggest before final fitting and marking
for these holes, you extend a mark outboard as to where the rivets are, then
locate your holes for screws accordingly.
In the archive, there is some info I posted on this trimming about using a
trammel rather than having to keep taking it on and off so many times (like
3 or 4 rather than 20 or 30 times), If you can't find it, let me know off
list and I'll go over it in detail.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear of Side Fwd Skins |
>How do you fit the rear of the fwd, side, fuse. skins (the 'cone' section)
>where it meets the rear skin at the flange of the F-606?
>I have trimmed as per the plans, but I still have a large gap between the
>'cone' and the rear side skin. Do I simply shim this area (big shims needed!)?.
>Royce Craven
Royce,
The slickest way to do this is to notch the rear skin to match the 606
bulkhead. Then, you can bend the tabs of the bulkhead along with the tabs
of the skin to the correct angle to match the forward side skin. Of course,
this won't work if you've already drilled the holes(: Naturally, I wasn't
smart enough to figure this out and found out about this method after I'd
already done mine with shims, which was a very time consuming, inelegant way
of doing things.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
Sorry Craig, Perspex must be a Trade name, but it is a transparant plastic
material, you can buy it from any building supply house under different names.
I cut a circle, larger than the hole in the fuselage, with a fly-cutter.
This leaves a sloping edge, so I have fitted it on the outside of the
fuselage using four nut plates.
I feel than on an average "walk-arround" we check what we happen to be able
to see, rather than what needs checking, so anything which can be made
visible is a plus.
I would like to claim this as a brilliant new idea, but in fact a lot of the
WW 2 Aircraft had clear panels for inspection.
John C-GDOC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Confusion |
rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes:
>I'd sure appreciate help on figuring out how the wing fairing fits
into the
>big picture. Right now I can't tell if I'm supposed to rivet it to
>something, attach it with bubble gum, or toss it in the baggage
compartment.
>Does that 12" rubber piece fit in here somewhere?
>Tim (frustrated) Lewis RV-6AQ TimRV6A(at)aol.com (Always Off Line)
Tim, the other details have been covered very well but I'd just like to
add my 2 cents on the rubber strip. The first time I did this (on an
Airbeetle) I really screwed it up such that the gap between fairing and
fuselage was too big and the strip was too loose. My suggestion is you
really creep up on it. Forget the idiom "measure twice cut once" and
cut as many times as you have to to ensure the gap doesn't get too
big...it does so very quickly.
The gap should be small enough to "bend" the rubber strip up,
requiring a certain amount of force to get the two to mate.
One way is to get it attached to the wing with clecoes such that there
is as small a gap as possible (say 1/8th) then run a marker with the
body along the side of the fueselage all down the strip. This becomes
the profile NOT THE CUT LINE. You can then creep up to it a bit at a a
time, patience pays off.
Ken
RV6A Flying (actually not right now, its minus 20 deg C, about -4deg F)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flange bolts and c/s prop... |
| From: | porterbob(at)juno.com (Robert J. Porter) |
On a similar note...I've got an IO-320 that originally had a constant
speed prop. I am going to use a wood prop/spool piece. The lugs are
7/16 inch but two of them are flush with the flange. The other four
extend out about 3/4 inch. Do I need to replace these two with lugs
that extend beyond the flange to match the other four?
Bob Porter
New Orleans
starting Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
Ryan et al.
I was the one who said I thought I cut the access hole with the fly-cutter
hand held. Now I have thought about it, I am sure I did not, and that hand
holding would be dangerous.
I apologise. One one the best and worst things about e mail is that is is so
fast and so convenient, that it let you respond rapidly before brain is
fully engaged.
John. (Still with ten fingers.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Rear of Side Fwd Skins |
Royce,
One thing I found to help was to trim the cut-out fairly close to the forward
rivet line, still leaving minimum edge distance, and with a 3/4" or so radius
at the corner. It is hard to suck that in and you may have to use a little
creative body work (mallet & block) to get it set. I have seen an idea
somewhere that showed a flared rear skin created by drilling and slicing that
area, similar to the technique used around the instrument panel angle
installation, except reversed and smaller. Don't know how that works out, but
maybe someone else on the list does. Good luck!
Les Williams
RV-6AQB #60027 Tip-up, my empennage complete, QB rec'd 12/18
RV-6A #20299 Completed 4/92, sold 10/95, 350 great hrs
--------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Royce Craven
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 1997 3:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rear of Side Fwd Skins
How do you fit the rear of the fwd, side, fuse. skins (the 'cone' section)
where it meets the rear skin at the flange of the F-606?
I have trimmed as per the plans, but I still have a large gap between the
'cone' and the rear side skin. Do I simply shim this area (big shims
needed!)?.
Thanks
Royce Craven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BDStobbe <70743.2727(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear of Side Fwd Skins |
SNIP
>>How do you fit the rear of the fwd, side, fuse. skins (the 'cone' section)
where it meets the rear skin at the flange of the F-606? <<
SNIP
If you carefully bend the cone section you should be able to get it to contact
the rear side skin along the entire length of the cone shape.
You may find that the cone area only contacts the rear skin along its edge since
it meets the rear skin at an angle. If you rivet this area as it sits you will
probably end up with a mess as the cone area is pulled down to the rear skin.
The fix I used was to cut "fingers" in the side skin to match those on the
baggage bulkhead. These fingers can then be bent at an angle (in combination
with the baggage bulkhead flange) to match the cone bend and you end up with an
almost perfect joint. I got this idea from the picture in the fuselage section
of the "14 Years of the RVator" collection - page 50.
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | F-6111 Fit Problem |
I can't get either the left or right F-6111 brace to fit against the F-6112
skin as shown on dwg. SC-4. However, by locating the lower end of F-6111
about 1 1/2 in. fwd of where shown (fwd of F-624), a good fit is possible.
It appears that if an inch or so was trimmed from both ends of F-6111, it
might be possible to fit it with the lower end directly above F-624 as shown.
Suggestions/comments please.
Thanks in advance.
Phil Rogerson
RV-6AQ #60057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | IELHAI(at)gnn.com (Irving Elhai) |
I would appreciate information on the following questions regarding
painting:
1. Is a 3 1/2 hp compressor, with max flow of 8.1 cu. feet of
air, sufficient to paint with an HVLP gun?
2. Is there a source for a full face mask, outside air
respirator, for less than 350.00 or so?
Thank you in advance,
Irv Elhai
Ielhai(at)gnn.com
Rv-8 #80110
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Royce,
You are probably right! A hole saw would be saffer. Some people dont have
the luxury of owning a machine shop so we do with what we have. Saftey is #1
and common sense must be used at all times.
Concerning your skins, the George Orndorff tapes show an easy way to
install the side skins, but I think your already beyond that point. Georges
tapes are one of those tools I would consider a high priority item for the
first time builder. It really helps cut down on your time trying to figure
things out.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
Hi all,
I have found the following technique useful for getting good dimples
without distorting the surrounding skin in hard to get at places like
the trailing edges of control surfaces.
I am using the Cleaveland C-frame with a small dead blow hammer (also
from Cleaveland). With the small table built up around the tool to
support the skin, I kneel on the table with the skin held in place by
one knee. I spread the skin apart with my head while holding the skin
tight against the table with my left hand. I let the ram rest on the
skin, rather than try to flatten the skin by pressure on the ram. A
couple of taps with the hammer (right hand) then does the trick. It
sounds a lot worse than it is in practice.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
Right elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>I forgot to mention a simple way to make a perfect fitting access cover. This
>works the same way wheather its round or sqaure. Once your hole is cut out ,
> smoothed and debured,lay a piece of material that you are using probably 032
>aluminum under the cutout. Trace a line around the access panel on to the
>piece of aluminum. Next trim around the line with a pair of snips as close to
>the line as you feel comfortable. Finish with your table sander (if you have
>one). Once the line has just been removed you should have a perfect fit.
A note of caution on this....A perfect fit is bad. Once you have paint on
all surfaces it will be tight and chip your new paint. Aim for about 1/16
inch clearance all the way round the cover.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net |
| Subject: | RV6/6a Empennage |
As I was finishing my empenage, I found a set of wings and empennage for
sale. The individual would not sell the items separately and so because of
the excellent construction, I purchased them. Now I have two finished
empennages and will sell one of them for $1000 along with construction
videos for empennage, wings and fuselage construction. Located Pensacola,
Fl. This is not a commercial ad (covering my six)!
John Henley, j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net
904-939-6432 (awaiting finishing kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net |
| Subject: | Re: F-6111 Fit Problem |
>
>I can't get either the left or right F-6111 brace to fit against the F-6112
>skin as shown on dwg. SC-4. .
>
>Phil-Ihave just finished and by fluting the inside edges of these channels
I coaxed them into fitting. Make sure they are not mislabeled (L vs R).
Putting them 11/2 in. fwd could have ramifications when the canopy is fitted
>
>j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net
awaiting finishing kit
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers
Has any one had any problems with leaks in the fittings that attach
the brake lines to the master cylinder, and fluid reservoir. I hooked
everthing up, it leaked, I tightend everthing agian and it still leaks.
The local A&P said not to use any teflon tape on brake or fuel fittings
Does anyone know what I can do? It's making a hell of a mess in my
cockpit.
This is happening, on both the brass, and plastic fittings.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
Okay, I'll ask the obvious. Are you sure you used the right flaring
tool? 37 degree?
--------------------- cut here
--------------------------------------------------------------
Mitch Faatz mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com San Jose, CA
RV-6AQME N727MF (reserved)
Finished with empennage and initial fuselage work, working on left wing
(So what do I know about these fittings?)
>----------
>From: Anne B. Hiers[SMTP:worldnet.att.net!CRAIG-RV-4.@matronics.com]
>Sent: Sunday, January 19, 1997 7:06 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Cc: craig-rv-4.@worldnet.att.net
>Subject: RV-List: brakes
>
>
>Listers
>Has any one had any problems with leaks in the fittings that attach
>the brake lines to the master cylinder, and fluid reservoir. I hooked
>everthing up, it leaked, I tightend everthing agian and it still leaks.
>The local A&P said not to use any teflon tape on brake or fuel fittings
>Does anyone know what I can do? It's making a hell of a mess in my
>cockpit.
>This is happening, on both the brass, and plastic fittings.
>
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
>Tallahassee,FL.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Confusion |
<< I'd sure appreciate help on figuring out how the wing fairing fits into
the
big picture. Right now I can't tell if I'm supposed to rivet it to
something, attach it with bubble gum, or toss it in the baggage compartment.
Does that 12" rubber piece fit in here somewhere?
Thanks,
Tim (frustrated) Lewis
RV-6AQ
TimRV6A(at)aol.com (Always Off Line) >>
Cap'n Tim, and others:
Sam James makes and sells a v nice looking sculptured root fairing for the -4
and the -6. He also has a reduced size F-4 style stick grip, and some high
quality two-pc wheel pants. I guess years of being the glass man on Miss
Budweiser allows a fella to stand the smell of this stuff... Contact him at:
941-675-4493.
I think he actually specifies which type of chewing gum to attach the things
! ;-)
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris marion <105152.1533(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Ohio shipping cost |
can any one give me an idea of what the shipping cost will be to get the
eppenage kit to the cincinatti,OH area? Thanks in advance.
Chris Marion
(tools ordered,soon to
be rv-6 builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Lewis <lewy(at)pacbell.net> |
Anne B. Hiers wrote:
>
>
> Listers
> Has any one had any problems with leaks in the fittings that attach
> the brake lines to the master cylinder, and fluid reservoir. I hooked
> everthing up, it leaked, I tightend everthing agian and it still leaks.
> The local A&P said not to use any teflon tape on brake or fuel fittings
> Does anyone know what I can do? It's making a hell of a mess in my
> cockpit.
> This is happening, on both the brass, and plastic fittings.
>
> Craig Hiers
> RV-4 N143CH
> Tallahassee,FL.
You might try SEALUBE a Ohio Industrial product for alloy parts in fuel
and oil lines. Is stocked by most aviation supply houses. Its an anti
seize sealer for aviation fittings.
--
Just an opinion mindya
Starduster SA-100 O-320E2D
Rally 2B (2B restored)
Ultra-Light helicopter 50% (still)
Using Vortech blades(Adams-Wilson Variant)
Want a Tailwind or S-18
lewy(at)pacbell.net
__________|__________ |O>>>>o
\ \_0_/ / |
__\___(_+_)___/__ |
|/ \| |
\|/........................\|/ | \|/
\|/ . .
. .
. .
. . () ()
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Perspex is British for plexiglass.
(Or plexiglass is American for perspex.)
I guess I'll use the lift, go out to my car, open the bonnet, and replace
the petrol feed valve with the spare I keep in the boot. :-)
(I hope I haven't started something.)
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-6111 Fit Problem |
PhilipR920(at)aol.com wrote:
>I can't get either the left or right F-6111 brace to fit against the F-6112
>skin as shown on dwg. SC-4. However, by locating the lower end of F-6111
>about 1 1/2 in. fwd of where shown (fwd of F-624), a good fit is possible.
>
>It appears that if an inch or so was trimmed from both ends of F-6111, it
>might be possible to fit it with the lower end directly above F-624 as shown.
There must be an echo in here. I asked the same question just a couple of
months ago!
First, the Left/Right markings on the F-6111 parts are backwards. In other
words, F6111R should go on the left side and vise versa.
Second, while the plans show the Bottom of F6111 is directly above the top
of F624, you'll probably find that the F605-to-F624 dimension is larger
than the 12.75 inches shown on the plans. Mine was. I don't know where
that 12.75 inches dimension comes from, but it's gotta be wrong. The
placement of F624 is dictated by the 'corner' of F623.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear of Side Fwd Skins |
Royce:
You asked:
>
>How do you fit the rear of the fwd, side, fuse. skins (the 'cone' section)
>where it meets the rear skin at the flange of the F-606?
>I have trimmed as per the plans, but I still have a large gap between the
>'cone' and the rear side skin. Do I simply shim this area (big shims
>needed!)?.
I *think* what you are saying is that the aft end of the 'cone' meets the
aft side skins at an angle, and want to know what to do about it, right?
If so, then here's what I did (I didn't come up with this, I stole it from
an old RVator:
You'll notice that the F606 flange in this area consists of several 'tabs'.
I trimmed my aft side skins where they meet the F606 so that the skins had
matching tabs. Then I could bend them outward, matching the angle of the
'cone'.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Confusion |
Let me add my two cents. Do not bond the rubber to the fairing until you
have painted the airplane. (Assuming you will paint before you fly) This
way you don't have to tape (mask) the rubber. I didn't want the rubber
painted. The black rubber makes a nice "trim" line. Looks good.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Craig,
Did you use the brass inserts in the nsr tubing? Are the nuts cross
threaded? Also, over-tightening of the nuts will disort the brass sleeves and
inserts, crimp the lines and cause leaks. You may have to cut off the ends
and use some new hardware. The sn tubing fittings may do the same thing.
Hope this helps!
Les Williams
RV-6AQB #60027 Tip-up, ME complete, working on wings
RV-6A #20299 complete 4/92, sold 10/95, 350 great hrs
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Anne B. Hiers
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 1997 7:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: brakes
Listers
Has any one had any problems with leaks in the fittings that attach
the brake lines to the master cylinder, and fluid reservoir. I hooked
everthing up, it leaked, I tightend everthing agian and it still leaks.
The local A&P said not to use any teflon tape on brake or fuel fittings
Does anyone know what I can do? It's making a hell of a mess in my
cockpit.
This is happening, on both the brass, and plastic fittings.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis E. Smith Jr." <lsmith(at)coastalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ohio shipping cost |
chris marion wrote:
>
>
> can any one give me an idea of what the shipping cost will be to get the
> eppenage kit to the cincinatti,OH area? Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Chris Marion
> (tools ordered,soon to
> be rv-6 builder)
Chris,
Empenage kit UPS from Oregon to North Carolina cost $67.64.
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
RV-8 wings N801RV reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
>> that hand holding would be dangerous.
For what it's worth, it can be SAFELY cut using a fly cutter and hand
held. It just takes patience and time---use a hand operated auger/twist
drill!!!! I did, and it worked for me. I'm talking about the round hole
for access to the elevator horn/push pull tube connection.
One thing I haven't heard-read-about in talking about making it large is
don't get anxious for a big hole and half way through the job find out that
you are cutting into the J strip underneath.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Inst. panel mods |
>Also, did you use MIME to post this? Not real important, but it's kind
of
>like having a gnat flying by my face everytime my mail reader picks up
the
>"=" at the end of each line.
>On a side note, any time 'Darrel Anderson' posts a message It never
>contains text when
>it. Any one else have this happen?
>What you probably want to turn off is something like "pretty print"
>or something like that. I have included you most recent post below.
etc., etc.
Now, how do I word this to avoid the "flame" accusations?
I have unchecked the MIME box in my Windows Messaging properties, turned
off all the attributes I can find, so I would appreciate a callback if all
is still not OK. What I have to wonder about is why I am not having ANY
problem receiving ANY mail, including attachments, and, as indicated by
welcome responses to my questions, it is obvious that others are receiving
my mail too. I try to keep the latest messaging software on my system, and
expect to enjoy the latest features. If I were accessing the List using a
Commodore 128 (my previous system!) using ASCII text-only software, I would
certainly not complain that I was unable to read attached JPEG files or see
TrueType fonts. What I'm getting at is, "Is it my system or yours?" (THE
FLAME?)
I've noticed from the returned quotes that contain the extra "=" or "=20"
characters that they only appear at the end of a line that is in the MIDDLE
of a sentence, never at the end of a sentence. Does this have something to
do with the formatting of the text? What else should I check?
Man, I'm tryin' to help.
Darrell Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jordan <ace(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC064B.F96215C0
----------
From: aol.com!TimRV6A(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!TimRV6A(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 1997 2:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: TimRV6A(at)aol.com
Suggestions please!
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
Tim,
I just went to an auto parts store and bought a fiberglass repair kit =
and did all the necessary work on the empennage tips. It only cost a few =
dollars and I still have some left. I may buy some fresh later for the =
wings, but it worked just fine. Although, I found it difficult to dip =
the fiberglass cloth and then try to apply it, so I finally figured it =
was much easier to lay up the cloth and then pour the resin on top of =
the cloth. Then smooth it out with a popsycle stick. After it sets up, =
just sand it smooth. It does shrink after it sets, so I found it =
necessary to use several coats to build it up before the finish sanding. =
Good Luck
Terry Jordan (empennage finished and waiting for the rest of the QB)
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC064B.F96215C0
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC064B.F96215C0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>Has any one had any problems with leaks in the fittings that attach
>the brake lines to the master cylinder, and fluid reservoir. I hooked
>everthing up, it leaked, I tightend everthing agian and it still leaks.
>The local A&P said not to use any teflon tape on brake or fuel fittings
>Does anyone know what I can do? It's making a hell of a mess in my
>cockpit.
>This is happening, on both the brass, and plastic fittings.
>Craig Hiers RV-4 N143CH Tallahassee,FL.
Craig,
Yes, the nylon fittings supplying brake fluid to the brake cylinders do
seep a little bit on my RV-6. The fittings on the high pressure side do
not. It's a problem to know when to quit tightening the nylon fittings as
the threads are easily stripped. What your mechanic told you is generally
accepted aircraft practice. However, I may use some fuel lube, seal lube or
maybe even Teflon tape to stop the leak. Judicious use of any of these
products should be practiced. (Notice, I said this is what I might do. I
didn't tell you to do it!)
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< every fly cutter I have seen says NOT to use it in a hand held drill. I
think using a hole saw might be safer. >>
Yeah, that's the lawyers talking. If you are careful and back your metal up
with a wood block, a hand drill works just fine. No problem.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling Trick |
>
> I spread the skin apart with my head while holding the skin
>tight against the table with my left hand. I let the ram rest on the
>skin, rather than try to flatten the skin by pressure on the ram. A
>couple of taps with the hammer (right hand) then does the trick.
>
"yes dear, I decided to dimple my ear, all the RV builders have started
doing it"
I still have plans for a foot operated dimpler which uses a sledge hammer as
a drop hammer. My tool frees up both hands for material handling and
produces very consistant dimples {slight variations due to gravitational
waves not noticable:-) }. I dimple at a rate of one every 2-3 seconds when
taking my time. You should be able to contruct it from light steel in an
afternoon. This is an accessory to the C-frame dimpling tools. Included
are plans to foot actuate your Tatco squeezer also, which comes in handy
when dimpling(and dimpling) the ribs. $10 Kevin Lane 1818 SE Elliott
Ave Portland, OR 97214
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Hartzell prop questions |
Does anyone know the differances between the HC-C2YK-1BF prop that Vans
sells and a HC-C2YK-2RBF. I know that the -2RBF is a feathering prop,
Will it go into feather if you lose oil pressure? Is it a "compact hub"
design?does it weight more than a -1BF? Vans sells a 72" prop, would a
74" prop be to big for a RV-6, could the blades be shortened 1".What is
the approx. overhaul cost for a C/S prop?
Chris Brooks RV-6
biulding fuselage
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
>
>Listers
>Has any one had any problems with leaks in the fittings that attach
>the brake lines to the master cylinder, and fluid reservoir. I hooked
>everthing up, it leaked, I tightend everthing agian and it still leaks.
>The local A&P said not to use any teflon tape on brake or fuel fittings
>Does anyone know what I can do? It's making a hell of a mess in my
>cockpit.
>This is happening, on both the brass, and plastic fittings.
>
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
>Tallahassee,FL.
>
I have the same problem but at the connection to the right wheel brake. Most
annoying!
Tom Martin
RV-4 200hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Texas RV photos |
Dave ,
we would be interested give us a call at 817-439-380...George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
Craig,
Well, it's monday morning and since no one answered your question with
the solution I used...
Most of the parts/supplies Van provides are excellent except the brake
parts IMHO. I went to the local industrial hose supply house and had
high pressure lines made for all cockpit connections, they use the same
45degee connectors used in aviation. Fire wall fittings transfer the
hoses from the cockpit to aluminium tubing (from Van's) down to the
brakes. No leaks, no broken nylon tubing, no broken brass....
The only thing I'll do different next time is use flex tubing for the
last 12" or so from the AL tubing to the brake itself, I haven't had
a problem yet but I'm worried about the AL becomming brittle due to
vibration. Time will tell.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling Trick |
The visual on this just cracks me up. It reminds me of the old '60s
game "Twister". We need more humor like this on the list.
Chris
> I spread the skin apart with my head while holding the skin
> tight against the table with my left hand. I let the ram rest on the
> skin, rather than try to flatten the skin by pressure on the ram. A
> couple of taps with the hammer (right hand) then does the trick. It
> sounds a lot worse than it is in practice.
>
> Steve Johnson
>
> RV-8 #80121
> Right elevator
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sportcraft Wingtip Antenna - Why it works |
Hi All,
Now that there are a number of people on the rv-list that have the Sportcraft
Wingtip Antenna's, I feel it would be a good time to describe what makes this
antenna design work, where other antenna designs fall short.
The Sportcraft Wingtip Antenna is a grounded 1/4 wave monopole which uses a
gamma match type feed using the airframe as the ground plane (counterpoise).
Bob Acher gave me that sentence for the benefit of the technocrats.
Personally, I have trouble with explanations I don't understand. They need
to be nice and simple for me.
If a normal antenna (monopole, or dipole) is mounted in the wingtip, it is
going to be blocked by the metal wing structure AND the wingtip NAV light
wires, strobe wires, and landing light wires.
Bob Archer's antenna is a ground plane antenna design. The antenna element
is tuned to the ground plane design of the antenna. The wing structure is
also made use of as part of this ground plane.
The NAV, Strobe, and any landing light wires all run along the front edge of
the antenna, so they have a negligible impact on the antenna performance.
On second thought, maybe it's better to not try and explain it. The wingtip
antenna's work, and it's better than less drag, there's NO DRAG. :-)
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder (Wingtip COM ant., and Vertical
Stabilizer COM ant.)
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
The only thing I'll do different next time is use flex tubing for the
last 12" or so from the AL tubing to the brake itself, I haven't had
a problem yet but I'm worried about the AL becomming brittle due to
vibration. Time will tell.
This is what I did on mine and what was done on the 'Beetle. They
actually replaced the whole line down the leg with hose but ended up
going back to AL with a short run of hose to the brake because the
brakes became a bit spongy due to the (too) long hose runs.
One tip I heard about the brass and/or nylon fittings is never to back
them off just to get the position correct, this is apparently where a
lot of leaks occur. If you have to undo them, then take them all the
way out and start again. This also applies to pipe fittings.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Dan,
I'm sure you meant "37degree connectors", which is the standard for aircraft
use. Nylo-flo and nylo-seal tubing are both widely used in many applications
and, if properly installed, will provide excellent results.
Like you, I was concerned about the aluminum tubing going to the brakes on my
first 6A, so I installed teflon with stainless steel overbraid. The downside
was that it cost over $100 for the lines and fittings from the side of the
fuselage to the wheels! I will probably use a compromise this time 'round.
Les Williams
RV-6AQB #60027 Tip-up, ME complete, working on wings
RV-6A #20299 complete 4/92, sold 10/95, 350 great hrs
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dan Boudro
Sent: Monday, January 20, 1997 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
Craig,
Well, it's monday morning and since no one answered your question with
the solution I used...
Most of the parts/supplies Van provides are excellent except the brake
parts IMHO. I went to the local industrial hose supply house and had
high pressure lines made for all cockpit connections, they use the same
45degee connectors used in aviation. Fire wall fittings transfer the
hoses from the cockpit to aluminium tubing (from Van's) down to the
brakes. No leaks, no broken nylon tubing, no broken brass....
The only thing I'll do different next time is use flex tubing for the
last 12" or so from the AL tubing to the brake itself, I haven't had
a problem yet but I'm worried about the AL becomming brittle due to
vibration. Time will tell.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brakes (fwd) |
I hope this was a type, but aviation connectors are 37.5 degree,
not 45 degree on the flare fittings.
Most of the auto race shops also carry the AN aviation style
fittings.
Herman
> Craig,
> Well, it's monday morning and since no one answered your question with
> the solution I used...
> Most of the parts/supplies Van provides are excellent except the brake
> parts IMHO. I went to the local industrial hose supply house and had
> high pressure lines made for all cockpit connections, they use the same
> 45degee connectors used in aviation. Fire wall fittings transfer the
> hoses from the cockpit to aluminium tubing (from Van's) down to the
> brakes. No leaks, no broken nylon tubing, no broken brass....
> The only thing I'll do different next time is use flex tubing for the
> last 12" or so from the AL tubing to the brake itself, I haven't had
> a problem yet but I'm worried about the AL becomming brittle due to
> vibration. Time will tell.
>
> Dan Boudro
> RV-4 N9167Z
> Albuquerque, NM
> dboudro(at)nmia.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | More...uh...Taxes (sorry) |
Found on Avweb (www.avweb.com) and of interest to Californians using
airplane "parts":
CALIFORNIA REPAIRS NOT AS TAXING: In a little-noticed action of
potentially great benefit to the state's aircraft owners, California
legislators recently passed SB 38, which eliminates state sales tax from
"aviation repair parts."
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
(last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Chris,
Ive been taking alot of crap for my advise here lately but ill take a
chance. I assume your using the plastic fittings supplied with the 4 kit. I
used teflon tape to install all my fittings on the upper end because the fit
was to sloppy. I now have 360hrs in almost 3 years and have never leaked a
drop. Use the tape.
Ryan Bendure RV4131RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
A friend is looking to buy a flying RV4 preferably located in
California/West Coast area. Is anyone aware of one for sale??
Ed Cole
emcole(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Ok you Lycoming experts---
A friend of mine and I looked at an RV4 with an IO360 200HP engine
yesterday. The engine came out of a wrecked Piper Seneca and the story
goes that the landing gear collapsed onto the fuel injection system and
the guy replaced it with an Ellison throttle body. It works, but you have
to diddle with the mixture constantly.
My question is what would be required to put back the original injection
system as far as parts required and ballpark costs (not including labor)?
Thanks in advance
ED Cole RV6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
My suggestions,
You don't need the "cool little pumps". They are not needed for
mixing small quantitites. Just get some small plastic medicin cups
and when you are done mixing a small batch just toss them out.
As someone suggested, most local Marine stores sell epoxy and epoxy
glass repair kits. The local one here sells West systems.
I had bought Alphapoxy from Alexander and it mixes 1 to 1 which is
nice and easy.
A Qt would be fine for small jobs. I bought a Gal. fo the RV4
fairings, gear legs, canopy fairing, cowl airfilter mod, etc and
still have a lot left. This stuff does not store well over long
periods. Also, it will absorb water so keep the lid on it.
(that is why I do not like the little pumps as it leaves the
material more exposed thru the end of the pump and then if you
pull out the pumps to put the cap on then you have a big mess
with the pumps.)
Use Peel Ply for sure, it is neat stuff an leaves a nice finish.
Use Bidirectional glass.
I like the cloth and not the tape. The reason is the first trick
below as you need to be able to cut out various shapes and 2 inch
tape does not allow much freedom. The tape may be fine for a few
things, like wrapping gear legs.
The first TRICK for fiberglass on compound curves (which is almost all
the layup you are doing on a RV), you need to cut the cloth 'on the bias'.
That is, you cut the cloth 45 degrees to the 90 degree bidirectional
weave. This will alow the cloth to be shapped in any way as it
will 'strech'. You can pull it longer in either direction. Try it and
you will see. Anyone that sews clothes knows about this trick.
The second TRICK for doing small repairs is to cut all your glass pieces
first. Lay out some tin foil on the floor or table and lay your glass
pieces on the foil. Then brush on the epoxy on the glass
as it is laying on the tin foil on the floor. Take a small plastic
squeegy (little yellow ones you use for bondo repair or simply
a flat wood mixing stick will work) and squeese off the excess resin.
Then you can pickup the piece and apply it to your layup.
(Use some form of rubber gloves on your hands).
The first TRICK for fiberglass on compound curves (which is almost all
the layup you are doing on a RV), you need to cut the cloth 'on the bias'.
That is, you cut the cloth 45 degrees to the 90 degree bidirectional
weave. This will alow the cloth to be shapped in any way as it
will 'strech'. You can pull it longer in either direction. Try it and
you will see. Anyone that sews clothes knows about this trick.
Also, protect EVERYTHING below the work area with wax paper or duck tape
(there is that Duck word again) as the resin will run all over the place.
Even the 'fast' try takes hours to set up and this stuff just drips and
runs so just protect everything around it.
Herman Dierks (been there, done that)
dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
>
> I'm planning to order a bunch of stuff from Wicks (or ACS) and I need advice
> on the brand and quantity of fiberglass I'll need to complete my 6A. I need
> to glass the wing tip lights on to the wing tips, then do the sliding canopy
> glass work, the cowling glass work, and any glass work required to fix the
> empenage fairing. There's probably other glass work I don't know about.
>
> What brand of epoxy resin/hardener would users recommend?
> Fast cure or slow cure (West System sells both)?
> How much should I buy?
> How much cloth should I buy?
>
> My first guess is:
> - 1.2 Quart kit of West Systems 105 epoxy resin with slow (206)hardener
> (30-40 min pot life)
> - Cool little pumps to make mixing easy
> - 1.7 oz West Systems microlight
> - 2" fiberglass tape, (50 yds long), 8.7 oz
> - 3" roll of peel ply
> - 7" x14" x 4" block of blue foam (to form curved piece where nose gear meets
> cowling as shown in Orndorff video)
> - lots of gloves
>
> Suggestions please!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6AQ #60023
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley) |
You wrote:
>I would appreciate information on the following questions regarding
>painting:
> 1. Is a 3 1/2 hp compressor, with max flow of 8.1 cu. feet of
>air, sufficient to paint with an HVLP gun?
> 2. Is there a source for a full face mask, outside air
>respirator, for less than 350.00 or so?
>
> Thank you in advance,
> Irv Elhai
> Ielhai(at)gnn.com
> Rv-8 #80110
>
Irv,
You left out the most important part of the air compressor, the tank
size. If that 3 1/2 hp single stage compressor is sitting on top of a
60 or 80 gal tank then it will probably be fine for painting your
airplane or whatever. If its sitting on top of a 20 to 30 gal tank,
then it probably would not be able to keep up when you are painting an
entire airplane.
Price Club or Sams sell 2 Stage compressors with 60 - 80 gal tanks for
around $600. The 2 Stage compressors will give you 175psi which is 2
to 3 times the volume or air of a single stage compressor at 125 psi.
The other think you may want to consider is a small 1hp compressor with
a 20 gal tank to drive you rivet gun and a turbine HVLP system for
painting.
Curtis Hinkley
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
RV8 80015
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> every fly cutter I have seen says NOT to use it in a hand held drill. I
> think using a hole saw might be safer.
Well sometimes you just have to throw caution to the wind! :-) :-) :-)
A while back I was talking to Eustace Bowhay about float construction
details, and he gave me the following tip: remove the pilot bit from
a flycutter and replace it with a regular drill bit. (You will have
to grind a flat spot in the bit so it will fit.) Back the work up
with a thick piece of wood, and of course use a slow speed. The
longer lenth bit, drilling into the wood, will stabilize the flycutter
making it "less unsafe".
Eustace and his partner Jim Rowe, a very experienced mechaninc, use
this method to cut the access holes in the float top pieces.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
OOPS! Yes I meant standard 37deg connectors!
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Mon, 20 Jan 1997, les williams wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> I'm sure you meant "37degree connectors", which is the standard for aircraft
> use. Nylo-flo and nylo-seal tubing are both widely used in many applications
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
Get the parts book and see what is needed.
You will need the Bendix fuel Injector body, the line up to the
fuel divider, the fuel divider, the lines to the injectors,
and the injectors themselves (that screw into the cylinders).
Last but not least, the fuel pump must be replaced as the FI
uses a higher pressure fuel pump.
Some minor things may be the throttle attach may have changed
so you may need a different cable or cable end.
The air cleaner or airbox will probably be different.
Herman
>
> Ok you Lycoming experts---
> A friend of mine and I looked at an RV4 with an IO360 200HP engine
> yesterday. The engine came out of a wrecked Piper Seneca and the story
> goes that the landing gear collapsed onto the fuel injection system and
> the guy replaced it with an Ellison throttle body. It works, but you have
> to diddle with the mixture constantly.
> My question is what would be required to put back the original injection
> system as far as parts required and ballpark costs (not including labor)?
> Thanks in advance
> ED Cole RV6A Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
I have a Lycoming O-360 A1A from Vans.
Since I live in Chicago which gets very cold in the winter time, I wanted to
have a primer. I took the Wicks electric solenoid valve and plumbed it into
the line going from my vertical gascolator line to the cylinders for a
primer switch.
I made all my primer tubing out of 1/8 inch aluminum tubing. Attached to
this tubing are regular AN (816) pipe thread fittings that are threaded into
each cylinder.
The question is:
1.) Will the cylinder get to much gas when primed without using a restrictor
fitting of some sort?
(I plan to hit the primer switch for a second with the electric fuel pump
running).
2.) Is the aluminum tubing and the aluminum fittings (without restrictors)
structurally safe to use.
(I understand current spam cams use stainless tubing - not copper or aluminum).
-- I elected not to use copper lines because they tend to break in time.
Happened on my last Cherokee.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Scott / Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Project Status: Ready To Trailer To the airport to attach wings to fuselage
(RV6A).
Financial Status: Broke due to buying new engine, instruments, radios, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank H. Pruitt" <fhpruitt(at)washingtonian.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Repost of RV-6 Drawing 8a Question |
Are the rib form dimensions in drawing 8a the actual
dimensions of the forming
blocks or must these dimensions be reduced to account for
the thickness of the
2024-T3 (.025" or .032") called for by the particular rib.
________________________
Frank H. Pruitt
fhpruitt(at)washingtonian.infi.net
1707 Forest Lane
McLean, VA 22101
Tools bought, new workshop under construction, studying
preview plans, will
build empennage from scratch!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
There is an RV-4 for sale in the Albuquerque area (AEG). The chief
mechanic at Double Eagle Airport is in charge of the sale .505.842.7007
FAX 505.831.7081
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Mon, 20 Jan 1997, Edward Cole wrote:
>
> A friend is looking to buy a flying RV4 preferably located in
> California/West Coast area. Is anyone aware of one for sale??
> Ed Cole
> emcole(at)concentric.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
Tim,
I'm like Bob Skinner. I think the polyester/vinylester is what most builders
that I know use. I purchased most of my supplies from a local fiberglas
speciality supplier and they have quality stuff that you can buy as you need
it. All my 'glass work was done with polyester except the canopy fairing
where I used epoxy resin for bonding strength and an excellent epoxy fairing
compound to finish it off.
Les Williams
RV-6AQB #60027
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!TimRV6A(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 1997 2:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A
I'm planning to order a bunch of stuff from Wicks (or ACS) and I need advice
on the brand and quantity of fiberglass I'll need to complete my 6A. I need
to glass the wing tip lights on to the wing tips, then do the sliding canopy
glass work, the cowling glass work, and any glass work required to fix the
empenage fairing. There's probably other glass work I don't know about.
What brand of epoxy resin/hardener would users recommend?
Fast cure or slow cure (West System sells both)?
How much should I buy?
How much cloth should I buy?
My first guess is:
- 1.2 Quart kit of West Systems 105 epoxy resin with slow (206)hardener
(30-40 min pot life)
- Cool little pumps to make mixing easy
- 1.7 oz West Systems microlight
- 2" fiberglass tape, (50 yds long), 8.7 oz
- 3" roll of peel ply
- 7" x14" x 4" block of blue foam (to form curved piece where nose gear meets
cowling as shown in Orndorff video)
- lots of gloves
Suggestions please!
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------826145482F
Bob Skinner wrote:
(snip)
What your mechanic told you is generally accepted aircraft practice. However,
I may use some
fuel lube, seal lube or maybe even Teflon tape to stop the leak.
--------------------------------------------
In general, Teflon tape is falling out of favor in many applications. While it
WAS extremely
popular when it was first introduced, in recent years, there have been many cases
reported of
particulate contamination in different applications. The tape shreds, tears and
breaks off
little pieces that find their way into many clean systems. The contamination has
plugged up fuel
injector ports, fine passages in hydraulic systems and even reacts with natural
gas(use Rector
Seal instead). Without being specific I find occasional warnings to NOT use the
tape in many
industrial applications. Instead of using TAPE I find that Teflon LIQUID or PASTE
sealant is
recommended or safer. All Im pointing out is that; to "universally" (or unquestionably)
use the
tape on everything that has a thread and needs a seal is not necessarily correct
(or safe)
anymore. As only one example that surprised me; I recently installed a Rochester
Carb and there
was a warning tag in the box saying to NOT use Teflon tape on fuel system parts.
I have many
rolls of the stuff in my tool box but I am finding that Permatexs "Thread Sealant
with Teflon
No.14H" gets used far more often that the tape. No endorsement of ANY product
is intended. Just
pointing out that sometimes a product is so good that it is universally adopted
almost
immediately. However, after a decade of use in the field, evidence points out to
the contrary.
Bob, did add a word of caution (I accidently deleted it) but those words are sage
advice - please
be careful.
-Elon
--------------826145482F
FCC: C:\Program Files\WorldNet\mail\Sent
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 11:52:40 -0800
From: Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: brakes
Bob Skinner wrote:
(snip)
What your mechanic told you is generally accepted aircraft practice. However,
I may use some
fuel lube, seal lube or maybe even Teflon tape to stop the leak.
--------------------------------------------
In general, Teflon tape is falling out of favor in many applications. While it
WAS extremely
popular when it was first introduced, in recent years, there have been many cases
reported of
particulate contamination in different applications. The tape shreds, tears and
breaks off
little pieces that find their way into many clean systems. The contamination has
plugged up fuel
injector ports, fine passages in hydraulic systems and even reacts with natural
gas(use Rector
Seal instead). Without being specific I find occasional warnings to NOT use the
tape in many
industrial applications. Instead of using TAPE I find that Teflon LIQUID or PASTE
sealant is
recommended or safer. All Im pointing out is that; to "universally" (or unquestionably)
use the
tape on everything that has a thread and needs a seal is not necessarily correct
(or safe)
anymore. As only one example that surprised me; I recently installed a Rochester
Carb and there
was a warning tag in the box saying to NOT use Teflon tape on fuel system parts.
I have many
rolls of the stuff in my tool box but I am finding that Permatexs "Thread Sealant
with Teflon
No.14H" gets used far more often that the tape. No endorsement of ANY product
is intended. Just
pointing out that sometimes a product is so good that it is universally adopted
almost
immediately. However, after a decade of use in the field, evidence point out the
contrary.
-Elon
--------------826145482F--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ted_boudreaux(at)om.cv.hp.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
I notice that Ed's building a -6A. All of the RV's I've seen with
IO360's are taildraggers. Does anyone know if the nosewheel strut
interferes with any part of the induction system on this engine? I
think this would make a great powerplant for my future 6A.
Ted Boudreaux
ted_boudreaux@hp-pcd.hp.com
6A HS (for over a year now)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: fuel injection
HP-Corvallis,mimegw1
Date: 1/20/97 8:07 AM
Ok you Lycoming experts---
A friend of mine and I looked at an RV4 with an IO360 200HP engine
yesterday. The engine came out of a wrecked Piper Seneca and the story
goes that the landing gear collapsed onto the fuel injection system and
the guy replaced it with an Ellison throttle body. It works, but you have
to diddle with the mixture constantly.
My question is what would be required to put back the original injection
system as far as parts required and ballpark costs (not including labor)?
Thanks in advance
ED Cole RV6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inst. panel mods |
Darrell L. Anderson wrote: (snip)
> I've noticed from the returned quotes that contain the extra "=" or "=20"
> characters that they only appear at the end of a line that is in the MIDDLE
> of a sentence, never at the end of a sentence. Does this have something to
> do with the formatting of the text? What else should I check?--------------------------------------
Darrell,
Whatever you did it seams to work fine now. This last message was received perfectly.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
>
> Use Peel Ply for sure, it is neat stuff an leaves a nice finish.
>
> Use Bidirectional glass.
> That is, you cut the cloth 45 degrees to the 90 degree bidirectional
> weave. This will alow the cloth to be shapped in any way as it
> will 'strech'. You can pull it longer in either direction. Try it and
> you will see. Anyone that sews clothes knows about this trick.
>
> The second TRICK for doing small repairs is to cut all your glass pieces
> first. Lay out some tin foil on the floor or table and lay your glass
> pieces on the foil. Then brush on the epoxy on the glass
> as it is laying on the tin foil on the floor. Take a small plastic
> squeegy (little yellow ones you use for bondo repair or simply
> a flat wood mixing stick will work) and squeese off the excess resin.
> Also, protect EVERYTHING below the work area with wax paper or duck tape
> (there is that Duck word again) as the resin will run all over the place.
> Even the 'fast' try takes hours to set up and this stuff just drips and
> runs so just protect everything around it.
Herman,
Most of your advice is excellent including the "mask everything" rule.
However....you shouldn't have a lot of resin dripping out of the layup, if
you do it means that you have too much resin and therefore extra weight and
less strength. I would suggest using your technique only for the first layer
of glass. Then add the extra layers and use a brush to stipple the resin
through these. Only add more resin if you just can't wet the top layer no
matter how hard you work it with the brush. Should give a lighter overall
result.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lsmith(at)coastalnet.com (Louis E. Smith Jr.) |
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
>
My question is what would be required to put back the original injection
>system as far as parts required and ballpark costs (not including labor)?
>Thanks in advance
>ED Cole RV6A Wings
>
Ed,
Give Don @ Airflow Performance, Inc. in Spartanburg, SC a call. He seems to
be the most knowledgeable person that I have spoken with on this subject.
He also has the lowest prices. (864)576-4512 >
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
RV-8 #80126 wings N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop questions |
Chris, Don't know about the other item you mentioned, but I do know this:
Never shorten or buy a metal prop that has been shortened. Too many
variables are changed, like the vibration characteristics, etc.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electric elevator trim tab travel |
I've installed the electric trim tab assembly. Per the instructions (Page
Q9-9 I of the quickbuild instructions) the trim tab travel is supposed to be
35 degrees down, 25 degrees up (that's a total of 60 degrees of travel). I
have mine all clecoed up and I can only get about 43 degrees of travel (for
example 25 degrees down and 18 degrees up). The trim tab itself will move
thru the full range of travel. The limiting factor seems to be the geometry
of the setup. The MAC servo travels 1.2 inches per the specification. I
don't see anything I can do to get the full 60 degrees of trim tab movement.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
TimRV6A(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling Trick |
(Chris Ruble) writes:
<< rv-list(at)matronics.com >>
Don't laugh, I did it the same way and it works great. Wonder if that is
what caused that bare spot on my head.
Dave
---------------------
From: cisco.com!cruble(at)matronics.com (Chris Ruble)
Date: 97-01-20 12:02:19 EST
The visual on this just cracks me up. It reminds me of the old '60s
game "Twister". We need more humor like this on the list.
Chris
> I spread the skin apart with my head while holding the skin
> tight against the table with my left hand. I let the ram rest on the
> skin, rather than try to flatten the skin by pressure on the ram. A
> couple of taps with the hammer (right hand) then does the trick. It
> sounds a lot worse than it is in practice.
>
> Steve Johnson
>
> RV-8 #80121
> Right elevator
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Craig,
I used a remote reservoir to supply fluid to the cylinders. Mounter the
reservoir on the firewall on the engine side. I had a heck of a time with
leaks until I did this: From the fitting inside the fuselage, I used a brass
fitting with a short piece of alum. tubing, about 2 inches long. Did the
same thing at the supply side of the cylinders. I used a very pliable piece
of clear tubing (poly-something from a hardware store) to connect between
these two pieces of tubing. I put double hose clamps on each end and never
had another leak. On the pressure side, to get the alum fitting to seal, you
may have to try several different fittings to find one that will tighten
sufficiently and end up pointing in the direction you desire. You have to
tighten these fittings very snug, but, at the same time, careful you don't
crack the fitting. When you think that any more tightening will crack the
fitting, stop, and see where the outlet is pointing. If it's not where you
want it, try another fitting. If you back it up it will leak. If you
tighten it more, you may break it. This can be very frustrating. I know
that these fittings aren't cheap, but, this is how I did it and it worked for
me. I would not recommend using tape on the fittings. They will eventually
seep.
Hope this helps.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> 2. Is there a source for a full face mask, outside air
> respirator, for less than 350.00 or so?
I have a friend who bought a Hobbyair (advertised in SA) and he let me
borrow it as long as I'd get my own hose and mask.
Some others in the past have suggested using a vacum cleaner (check
the archives) which seems like it would work, and would certainly be a
lot cheaper than the hobbyair. The hobbyair has a filter on the inlet
side, and the supply is a hookup to a dryer hose that goes outside; I
would think a filter like on the hobbyair would also be a good idea if
you used a vacum cleaner (you could probably just use some sort of air
mask replaceable filter) and wouldn't be difficult to rig up.
For the mask, I went to Sanderson's Safety supply in Portland OR and
found a fresh-air "hood" for $65. This is a full hood, made of tyvek,
with a thin plastic faceplate, and has its own short hose that goes up
into the top of the hood and blows air down through it. It has a wide
collar that is to be tucked into your clothing. I doubt it would last
under a lot of use but it should work for the extent of my project.
The hood was the cheapest they had, the next one up, a rubber lower
face mask only, was $125.
But the 25' supply hose they sold cost $80...! So for that I went
instead to Associated Hose Inc. (also in Portland), and they had all
the necessary fittings, and made me up a hose out of "food grade" 3/4"
poly for only $18.
Hopefully you can find similar supply houses where you live.
I think it is a really good idea to get this stuff worked out before
you ever pop the top off a can of primer. I used just a filter type
resparator for most of my project (with epoxy primer....!) before I
did this and now I wonder what kind of damage I might have done to my
precious innards!
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
I have a Lycoming O-360 A1A from Vans.
Since I live in Chicago which gets very cold in the winter time, I wanted to
have a primer. I took the Wicks electric solenoid valve and plumbed it into
the line going from my vertical gascolator line to the cylinders for a
primer switch.
I made all my primer tubing out of 1/8 inch aluminum tubing. Attached to
this tubing are regular AN (816) pipe thread fittings that are threaded into
each cylinder.
The question is:
1.) Will the cylinder get to much gas when primed without using a restrictor
fitting of some sort?
(I plan to hit the primer switch for a second with the electric fuel pump
running).
2.) Is the aluminum tubing and the aluminum fittings (without restrictors)
structurally safe to use.
(I understand current spam cams use stainless tubing - not copper or aluminum).
-- I elected not to use copper lines because they tend to break in time.
Happened on my last Cherokee.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Scott / Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Project Status: Ready To Trailer To the airport to attach wings to fuselage
(RV6A).
Financial Status: Broke due to buying new engine, instruments, radios, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
There is an 'official' primer port nozzel that you should use
so it shoots a small jet of fuel into the intake tube/port.
You will not get any pressure with 4 large AN fittings.
Also, any backfire or problem could cause a lot of backpressure
in the intake and may blow out your primer line.
Just look at ACS or WICKS catalog and they all sell the
primer fittings. There is also a special fitting that you
silver solder onto the primer line that attaches to the
primer plug. They are not cheap but that is what you need.
You can also pick these up used from used engine parts houses.
I have NEVER seen aluminum primer line used.
Copper line works fine. SS would be OK as well.
Bend a loop in the line where it goes between the engine and
the firewall.
Herman
dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
>
> I have a Lycoming O-360 A1A from Vans.
>
> Since I live in Chicago which gets very cold in the winter time, I wanted to
> have a primer. I took the Wicks electric solenoid valve and plumbed it into
> the line going from my vertical gascolator line to the cylinders for a
> primer switch.
>
> I made all my primer tubing out of 1/8 inch aluminum tubing. Attached to
> this tubing are regular AN (816) pipe thread fittings that are threaded into
> each cylinder.
>
> The question is:
>
> 1.) Will the cylinder get to much gas when primed without using a restrictor
> fitting of some sort?
> (I plan to hit the primer switch for a second with the electric fuel pump
> running).
>
> 2.) Is the aluminum tubing and the aluminum fittings (without restrictors)
> structurally safe to use.
> (I understand current spam cams use stainless tubing - not copper or aluminum).
>
> -- I elected not to use copper lines because they tend to break in time.
> Happened on my last Cherokee.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Scott / Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
>
>
>
>
> Project Status: Ready To Trailer To the airport to attach wings to fuselage
> (RV6A).
> Financial Status: Broke due to buying new engine, instruments, radios, etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop questions |
Dave responded to my prop question with the advice "never shorten a
metal prop"........................................................ I
have heard this before and I'm sure it has merit, but I'm not sure it
applies to constant speed props.
I was told by some one at Vans that there blade number F76666A-4 meant
that it was a standard 76" blade shortened (by Hartzell) 4"making it
72"
The 74" prop blades I'm considering are F7666A-2 (shortened 2")
I talked to a prop shop about shortening the blades and they said they
couldn't do it because they only do "certified" work.So I asked him
about the F7666A-4 blades being already shortened to 72".After he looked
it up in his book he said he could shorten them and certify them with no
problem.He also said his book showed that a RV-6 could use either 72" or
74" blades.
Chris Brooks RV-6
biulding fuselage
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop questions |
>Chris, Don't know about the other item you mentioned, but I do know this:
> Never shorten or buy a metal prop that has been shortened. Too many
>variables are changed, like the vibration characteristics, etc.
>Dave
Dave's comment is correct to an extent. Shortened, re-pitched props can be
dangerous. However, a lot of metal props, both fixed and constant speed do
allow for shortening. For instance, the Sensenich FP metal prop
(70CM6S16-0-77) that I have on my plane is 70 inches in diameter with a
minimum allowable diameter of 68 inches.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bpboyd(at)cdsnet.net (Bruce Boyd) |
I have one in my shop that belongs to a friend. It needs paint, radios,
upholstery. It has o-360 with very low hours, Wood prop. I was going to
finish it but it could be bought as is if you want to save some $$$ and save
me some time:-)
Bruce Boyd
bpboyd(at)cdsnet.net
>
>A friend is looking to buy a flying RV4 preferably located in
>California/West Coast area. Is anyone aware of one for sale??
>Ed Cole
>emcole(at)concentric.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop questions |
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) asked:
>Does anyone know the differances between the HC-C2YK-1BF prop that Vans
>sells and a HC-C2YK-2RBF.
The '2' vs the '1' in the suffix is an important one. The '2' not only
indicates that it is a feathering prop, it also indicates that oil pressure
forces it to LOW pitch, which is the OPPOSITE of what the -1BF does. This
is an important safety consideration.
Talk to your friendly neighborhood prop shop. (I can give you some names &
phone numbers if you need them) See if they can convert it to a -1BF.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
(with a new Hartzel prop from Van's in the garage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing newsletter had an article and some pictures
of a rudder trim system last year and the January issue had an article to
clarify some questions about the size of the parts and other issues. The
1996 back issues are $5.00 and a new subscription for 1997 is also $5.00. If
you are interested, send me an E-mail with your address and I will send you
the back issues and the January 1997 issue and they can cross your check in
the snail mail. Money back guarantee.
Jim Cone, Editor
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing Newsletter
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
(314) 928-8703
fax (314) 447-8803
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop questions |
>
>Chris, Don't know about the other item you mentioned, but I do know this:
> Never shorten or buy a metal prop that has been shortened. Too many
>variables are changed, like the vibration characteristics, etc.
>
Dave;
For what it's worth, Sens. says in the literature that comes with the prop
that they can be shortened up to 1 inch off of each blade, but NO more than
that. So if the manuf. says it, I would think that it is OK. I would
assume that if they have it in the literature, then they have checked it out.
>
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
Scott;
> are regular AN (816) pipe thread fittings that are threaded into
>each cylinder.
I was advised not to use these.
>1.) Will the cylinder get to much gas when primed without using a restrictor
>fitting of some sort?
>(I plan to hit the primer switch for a second with the electric fuel pump
>running).
I was told that the ends of the regular primer fittings were a little like a
fuel injector, that it causes a spray (misting) of the fuel rather than a
liquid that may only pool. I got mine from the local FBO for just a few $
more than a normal alum. fitting.
>2.) Is the aluminum tubing and the aluminum fittings (without restrictors)
>structurally safe to use.
>(I understand current spam cams use stainless tubing - not copper or aluminum).
>
I used the copper and plan to anneal it about every 200 hours. Guess the
alum. would be about the same, but even that needs to be annealed every so
often.
>-- I elected not to use copper lines because they tend to break in time.
>Happened on my last Cherokee.
>
I started without a primer on a 320 E2D. Hard cranking etc. lead me to
install a primer out of a Piper Tomahawk, normal push pump type. Has worked
fine. 2 to 4 pumps in the coldest weather is fine for a quick start. I
have a hang up to the pumping of the throttle for starts. Had a T-6 almost
go up in flames as I did what my instructor told me to do in flying school.
After that flame came up around the cowling, my eyes got so big that it took
about 4 weeks for my eyelids to come back to normal :<)
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougb(at)mail.diac.com (Douglas Bloomberg) |
Howdy,
I think deburring is the worst task on the whole plane. My method is to do
the best job in the
least amount of time.
To do the best I use a countersink cutter (appropriate size tip) to make
very smooth deburrs.
What do I mean smooth? Well get a magnifier and look at a normal hole
after using the standard
deburring tool. Not very pretty is it? I found that the tool wonders about
the hole (chatters)
Using the counter sink ter the pilot holds to tool in one spot, this
reduces chatter.
To speed up the process I bought one ofAvery's tools that fit into an
electric screwdriver.
I twisted in the cutter into the tool. Now the tip, I marked a line down
the tool from Avery's
with a black felt tip marker. Now I watch two marks go by, go to the next
hole, two marks spin
by next hole, this is almost as boring as doing it.
But, now do any of your have a better way than this? Remember I hate
deburring.
Thanks All
Doug Bloomberg
RV-6A N399DB
Denver, CO
dougb(at)mail.diac.com (home)
dougb(at)rvator.denver.sgi.com (work)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
Leo, you are correct in that you should do as dry a layup as possible.
Using the squegee method will do that.
However, it is my experience in working with epoxy resin that some
will always run down so you had better prepare for it.
Tony's article on fiberglass layups on the RV canopy basically say
the same.
This stuff is also like working with a tar baby or proseal. Before
long you find the resin is on everything.
Cheers, Herman
> Herman,
>
> Most of your advice is excellent including the "mask everything" rule.
> However....you shouldn't have a lot of resin dripping out of the layup, if
> you do it means that you have too much resin and therefore extra weight and
> less strength. I would suggest using your technique only for the first layer
> of glass. Then add the extra layers and use a brush to stipple the resin
> through these. Only add more resin if you just can't wet the top layer no
> matter how hard you work it with the brush. Should give a lighter overall
> result.
>
> Leo Davies
>
> leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
>Tach time is less than actual engine running time because
>the time totalizer runs poorly at engine idle speeds
>(1000 rpm and below). . . . .
Here's one of those commonly circulated pronouncements
that fails to bring "proportionality" to the equation. . .
>Use good reliable A/C type fittings to do this. Connect one
>the NO (normally open) terminal to ground and the common
>terminal to the negative side of the hobbs. . .
If you want to use SPDT oil pressure switch to control
both Hobbs -AND- oil pressure/master warn then the
Common terminal would go to ground and NO terminal
to Hobbs. . . .
> . . . . . Then run a line
>from the positive side of the hobbs to 12-14V power. If you
>wish the hobbs to capture all engine running time whether
>the Master is ON and/or OFF, connect to the battery positive
>terminal (or another point that is on the same node).
Production Cessnas of years-gone-by have a fuse holder
right next to the battery master contactor. Two fuses
(one for clock the other for Hobbs) provide always hot
power leads for their respective tasks. If you're
wiring your airplane per AeroElectric Connection suggestions,
you'll have an essential bus alternate feed switch that
has an always hot terminal. An inline fuse holder from
this terminal to your Hobbs meter and then to the oil
pressure switch will get it going. If you choose to have
the low oil warning light and buzzer feature I mentioned
earlier, power for those components should come from the
main bus so that they go off with the master . .
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RAINPOOF(at)aol.com |
I have been looking at several 0-320s and have come up with a very good way
to figure the value of an 0-320 engine. A narrow deck has a core value (with
accessories) of $3500 plus $5 for every hour left until TBO. The wide deck
has a core value of $4500 plus the $5. If you can find one for the core
price plus $3 for every hour left, jump on it.
Jerry Engel
Rainpoof(at)aol.com
completing wings Rv-6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVE BERGH" <DBERGH(at)CYBERHIGHWAY.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Ohio shipping cost |
Chris,
I had my tial kit shipped last week to Idaho for 29.00. You can interpolate
between this and the other figure posted earlier and come fairly close I
would think.
Hope this helps.
Dave.
----------
>
>
> can any one give me an idea of what the shipping cost will be to get the
> eppenage kit to the cincinatti,OH area? Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Chris Marion
> (tools ordered,soon to
> be rv-6 builder)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>You have to
>tighten these fittings very snug, but, at the same time, careful you don't
>crack the fitting. When you think that any more tightening will crack the
>fitting, stop, and see where the outlet is pointing. If it's not where you
>want it, try another fitting. If you back it up it will leak. If you
>tighten it more, you may break it. This can be very frustrating. I know
>that these fittings aren't cheap, but, this is how I did it and it worked for
>me. I would not recommend using tape on the fittings. They will eventually
>seep. Dave
Listers,
From Elon's post: good point on the Teflon tape. Kids, don't try this at
home! If you don't use tape, you will not have to worry about contamination.
I did not use any Teflon tape on the fuel system but I did use some on the
oil cooler fittings. I was very carefull not to use it anywhere near the
end of the fitting. Probably not the brightest idea but, after 330 hours,
I've never observed any contaminants in the oil filter or screen. I'll do
better next time. Find something else to use.
As far as the fit of angled AN fittings with pipe threads, would it be
acceptable to use a pipe thread die to cut additional threads so that the
position of the fitting changes?
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: brakes (fwd) |
My brakes leaked at the pedals on the supply side. I called Van's and Tom
Green said to use teflon tape on the pipe threads. It worked. No leaks
since putting the tape on.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repost of RV-6 Drawing 8a Question |
>
>Are the rib form dimensions in drawing 8a the actual
>dimensions of the forming
>blocks or must these dimensions be reduced to account for
>the thickness of the
>2024-T3 (.025" or .032") called for by the particular rib.
>
>________________________
>Frank H. Pruitt
>fhpruitt(at)washingtonian.infi.net
>1707 Forest Lane
>McLean, VA 22101
>
>Tools bought, new workshop under construction, studying
>preview plans, will
>build empennage from scratch!
Frank, The drawing says it is rib forms, meaning form blocks. A way to
check is to go back to dwg 3a and check the dimension of a part one of the
ribs rivets to. Lets take the end of HS-603 which is 1.875 inches at the
narrow end where HS-606 attaches. Then go to the form block drawing on dwg
8a and look at the end of HS-606. The dimension is given as 2x0.91 for the
width, which is 1.820. The difference between 1.875 and 1.820 is 0.055
which is enough for the two flanges of 0.025 plus 0.005 of springback of the
flanges.
I know this sounds messy, but you need to find ways of checking things. I
try to determine something from the plans, then go back and verify using a
different set of dimensions or criteria. Part of the *measure twice, cut
once*. If you don't develope this *i'll figure it out myself* attitude,
you will be buying a lot of replacement parts, and directing a lot of
profanity to the west.
Are you really planning to build from scratch? I think you could easily
spend about the same amount of money buying materials as a kit cost,
because for each part you make, you will have to make one or two prototypes
to fine tune the template. At least this is what those who have scratch
built have indicated. My hat is off to you if you tackle this project as a
scratch build. It can be done, it has been done and it will be done again,
but it is for those wanting a project, not those wanting an airplane!
Don't let me discourage you, just hang on for the ride. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
>
> I notice that Ed's building a -6A. All of the RV's I've seen with
> IO360's are taildraggers. Does anyone know if the nosewheel strut
> interferes with any part of the induction system on this engine? I
> think this would make a great powerplant for my future 6A.
>
> Ted Boudreaux
> ted_boudreaux@hp-pcd.hp.com
> 6A HS (for over a year now)
Ted, Some of them will and some of them will not. There are -6A's with
200hp on the front end. It depends where the induction system is located.
If it comes out the aft side of the oil pan facing the firewall or the back
half of the bottom of the oil pan will be an interferrence. If it comes out
the front side of the oil pan, you will need to rework the air intake
scoop. Either way, you will need to widen the cowl at the front end
because the engine is wider than an O-360. Steve Bernard of BAC (the quick
build wing kits) recently installed an IO on his -6A. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
Aluminum lines will work harden from the vibration and break even faster than
the copper lines. Copper has been used for many years and works well as long
as they are properly supported and have loops in them to allow for engine
movement.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing storage |
I made a storage rack for my wings out of plywood by cutting a leading edge
shape in it for each wing so that they were top skin to top skin. I mounted
the two plywood ends on a frame with wheels so that I could move them around
my shop. This worked great and allowed me to put them up against a wall, out
of the way. I used this same holder to take the wings to the airport.
Jim Cone
Ready to fly in a couple of days.
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
Scott,
I did basiclly what you did and have found the system to work very well. A 2
to 3 count is what we us , you'll have to try it to see what works best for
you....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | RV6A Fuselage wanted |
Hey gang we broke 30 degrees here in Minnesota(for a day 1/2), must mean
spring is only months away. I am looking for a 6A fuselage. If you know
of any that are available please e-mail me off-list.
Thanks
--
Rick Osgood
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
Get the parts book and see what is needed.
You will need the Bendix fuel Injector body, the line up to the
fuel divider, the fuel divider, the lines to the injectors,
and the injectors themselves (that screw into the cylinders).
Last but not least, the fuel pump must be replaced as the FI
uses a higher pressure fuel pump.
Some minor things may be the throttle attach may have changed
so you may need a different cable or cable end.
The air cleaner or airbox will probably be different.
Don't forget:
electric fuel pump
fuel pressure transducer (and gauge)
maybe fuel flow sender
maybe a high pressure gascolator(depending on if you use one)
The throttle and mixture linkages are quite different.
You may be able to get away with the same airbox, just a different top
plate (the oval bit with the hole)
If you're considering this, I would highly recommend plumbing a vapour
return line to your tanks. You may not have to use it but if you do,
its there...I wish I had.
Ken
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
Listers,
Just another thought about using the proper primer fittings over standard AN
fittings. We pull our manifold pressure off of the primer port on a rear
cylinder. It's safe to say that this is a low pressure area. The proper
fitting is a restrictor fitting. It not only restricts the primer fuel from
entering the cylinder, but will also restrict air from entering the cylinder
if a primer line breaks (the copper work hardens and I've seen them break).
A regular AN fitting will allow a whole bunch of air to enter the cylinder
thus creating a very lean condition. Wouldn't this burn the cylinder?
Those primer fittings are rather cheap when compared to a new cylinder.
It was recommended that the little brass fitting be silver soldered to the
copper line. Is this really necessary? I tried to silver solder it and had
the brass fitting melt prior to the silver solder. Now, all my primer
fittings are soldered with 95/5 solder. Any thoughts on this?
Scott Gesele N506RV
scottg(at)villagenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
Rich Trickle (or Trickel, I'm not sure), designer of the KIS homebuilts,
gave me the following tip. After spreading resin over the glass tape or
cloth with a squeegee, cover it with a layer of Saran Wrap and roll it
with the equivalent of a photographic print roller. Properly done, this
helps ensure that: (a) the weave is thoroughly impregnated with resin
and (b) no excess resin remains in the weave.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
Scott,
I have the same type primer setup on my 4. I cant comment on the aluminum
line because I have no experience with it mine are copper. What you can do
with your fittings is put them in a vice heat the fittings with a propane
torch and fill the fittings with solder. After it cools take a small drill (
around a #60) and drill through the center . This will cut down greatly on
the amount of fuel being dumped into your cylinders. This is the way mine is
installed and I had to have a primer sys as I am running an Ellison TBI. BTW
I only push that button for a second and I have plenty of fuel for start.
Hope this is of some help.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
Scott,
I wasnt clear on what type fittings you were using. The advise I gave before
will work with brass fittings. You can purchase brass fittings with pipe
thread on one end and a compression fitting on the other end at most good
automotive parts stores.(Big A). These fittings can be soldered as I
suggested before and can be used with the aluminum line. Your investment for
the fittings will be around 3 bucks.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <71155.2336(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Best Pickle Proc.??? |
Hello everyone,
I am in the process of storing a IO-360A3B6D for my RV-8 and want to get some
input on how best to pickle this thing. I have read the archives and Tony
Bengelis's Firewall Forward but still have a few questions.
Tony's book say's drain the oil and replace with corrosion preventative mixture
Mil-C6529. I can't find this stuff in any of my catalogs. ACS has called
Poly-Fiber ESO Engine Storage Oil with a MIl-1-21260 (pg 241 in '96-'97 ACS
Cat.. Is this the same stuff and if not should I use it?
What is the best Oil to spray the cylinder walls with? I have been just shooting
WD-40 in there for now and turning the motor over a couple of times. There are
a
couple of CRC Products that look better to me such as CRC Corrosion Shell (ACS
pg 245) that I guess has a waxy film that will not run off.
What keeps corrosion from forming on the cam lobes? It does not seem like the
Engine Storage Oil would do them much good other than possibly keeping moisture
out. Is there any type of fogging oil spray you could spray in the crankcase
that could help?
Thanks in advance for the help
Greg Puckett 80081 (Waiting for Spars)
71155.2336(at)CompuServe.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: torque technique |
Does Lycoming publish bolt-stretch numbers, as well as torque specs? Bolt
stretch is commonly used (rather than torque) in building auto racing engines,
and is generally regarded as more accurate. (It's also used in powerplant
turbines, and probably a lot of other places, too.)
Tedd McHenry
tedd(at)idacom.hp.com
Edmonton, Canada
(RV-6 plans only)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
A question for RV4 pilots who have actually flown or flown in the RV8
and handled it.
How does the RV8 general handling, roll rate, aileron forces, elevator
forces and harmonisation of controls compare with the RV4.
Comparison of back seat room.
Vis from front seat compared with the RV4.
Any flying differences.
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Drew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass working |
I have been reading the good advice being offered on fibreglassing
and would like to share a tip given to me at the difficult moment of
fixing the windshield. The task I was dreading was that of applying
a length of 2 inch wet glass cloth, cut on the cross, around the edge of
the windshield. If you have ever handled wet fibreglass, (our spelling),
cut on the cross, you will know that it sags under its own weight,
stretches, and ends up much narrower than you intended.
The solution I was offered came from a friend who had observed Rich
Trickell (Pulsar) at work and went as follows:
Cut a length of cloth on the cross (at 45% to the weave) say about 12
inches wide and long enough for your purpose. Tape this along both edges
to a strip of polyethylene film which is slightly wider than the glass cloth.
Taking all the precautions against epoxy drips as mentioned by the other
contributors, place the strip, fibreglass upwards on a table. Have another
matching strip of polyethylene ready before mixing your epoxy. Pour a
suitable amount of epoxy onto the fibreglass and before attempting to
spread the epoxy, place the standby polythene on top of the wet glass.
Smooth the upper plastic film onto the wet glass and work the epoxy
through the plastic with a squeegee or something like a credit card.
You will be able to drive out air bubbles and and excess epoxy and
achieve a transparent combination of plastic film-fibreglass-plastic
film. Hopefully you will have avoided touching the epoxy and any
excess has been driven onto a paper towel.
The laminate is now easily handled and can be moved without
stretching or making too much mess.
Line up a cutting edge and use a rotary cutter to cut the laminate
into tapes starting at 2 inch width. I tried to cut a series with identical
pairs each 1/8th inch narrower than the last in order to achieve a tapered
edge when they were combined.
Starting with the widest pair, remove a layer of plastic film from
each to leave you with two strips which can be placed on top of each
other. Status is now two layers of wet glass protected by the outside
layers of plastic film. Repeat this with the other pairs and
continue to combine the wet layers. If I recall correctly I combined
eight layers of glass for my canopy. When they are all together you
can still rub through the plastic to achieve a uniformly wetted
laminate and you can handle the strip without it distorting.
If you have achieved the edge taper which will improve the final
result, remove the outer plastic from the widest side and carry the tape to
the job with the support of the remaining film. Rub through the top film
to remove air bubbles and expect the wet laminate to distort a little
as it follows the compound curves. If you are satisfied with the lie
of the glass, leave the plastic in place until the epoxy cures and
guarentee yourself a smooth upper surface. Epoxy will not stick to
polyethylene and the best result is achieved by removing it after
full cure.
It is perhaps important to use a low viscosity grade of epoxy to
permit the removal of film from wet glass without distorting the
laminate and I would concur with the contributor who recommended a
minimum amount of epoxy. You just need enough to remove the bubbles
and make the weave transparent. To expose the wet glass, just fold the
film back through 180 degrees and pull it gently away. Too much
epoxy will give the glass a wet float and it may come apart.
This technique worked well for me and provided a very satisfactory
result. I hope it works for you.
Noel Drew
ZU-APF RV6, Durban, South Africa
noeldrew(at)iafrica.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Fittings |
>
>Listers,
>
>Just another thought about using the proper primer fittings over standard AN
>fittings. We pull our manifold pressure off of the primer port on a rear
>cylinder. It's safe to say that this is a low pressure area. The proper
>fitting is a restrictor fitting. It not only restricts the primer fuel from
>entering the cylinder, but will also restrict air from entering the cylinder
>if a primer line breaks (the copper work hardens and I've seen them break).
>A regular AN fitting will allow a whole bunch of air to enter the cylinder
>thus creating a very lean condition. Wouldn't this burn the cylinder?
>Those primer fittings are rather cheap when compared to a new cylinder.
And.... Why screw around, the correct fittings (AN4022-1) can be had for
about $6.00 each. The result of having a home made fitting break could cost
you a whole lot more than 24 bucks.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying 2 1/2 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: torque technique |
Lycoming has two types of rod bolts.
One type uses a torque wrench.
The other is the 'strech' type and these are carefully machined
on each end and you use a go/nogo gage or a micrometer to measure the
length of the bolt and you torque it until it streches the required
amount.
The strech bolt is more accurate and is used in the higher HP/higher
cost engines.
Most of the O320's and 180 HP O360 just use the torque type bolts.
Herman
>
> Does Lycoming publish bolt-stretch numbers, as well as torque specs? Bolt
> stretch is commonly used (rather than torque) in building auto racing engines,
> and is generally regarded as more accurate. (It's also used in powerplant
> turbines, and probably a lot of other places, too.)
>
> Tedd McHenry
> tedd(at)idacom.hp.com
> Edmonton, Canada
> (RV-6 plans only)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAllen6526(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Response to Bitmap inquiry. |
I received several good responses from folks on RV bitmaps used for planning
painting schemes, some of which are still coming in. One that is
particularly useful is from Jeremy Benedict . His message reads as follows:
<http://www.portlands.com/rv6-3v.gif
http://www.portlands.com/rv6a-3v.gif
Available at that address until probably 1/25/97
Jeremy>
I logged onto this site and downloaded a 3 view line-art drawing which I
think will be quite sutable for what I want.
Thanks to all who responded. I also received a couple of BMP's which were
photographs of airplanes. Although these were of limited use for my purpose,
it's always motivational to see someone's finished effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
> 1. Is a 3 1/2 hp compressor, with max flow of 8.1 cu. feet of
>air, sufficient to paint with an HVLP gun?
Irv:
I am surprised you have had no responses to your query. The Binks gravity
fed HVLP gun will work fine with your compressor. There are several
postings in the archives about it.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <bob(at)eislogan.com> |
| Subject: | panel layout software |
Has anyone tried the panel layout software that's available for $100? I
was wondering if it can lay out hole cut-outs, screw hole positions,
etc...
I plan on using a CNC vertical milling center to cut all the holes out
in my panel, and can do so simply (well, almost) by exporting an AutoCAD
drawing to the machine--it can interpret .DWG files. I haven't gotten
very far yet with the drawing, but have laid out in AutoCAD the tip-up
instrument panel prints according to Van's drawings--which are different
from the slider that I'm building.
If anyone has any GOOD AutoCAD drawings of a slider panel, I would
greatly appreciate them.
Thanks
Bob Japundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop questions |
I guess that I should have been more specific. What I meant to say is: A
metal prop shouldn't be shortened arbitraily. Of course if the Manufacturer
says it's ok, then they have checked it out and it's ok. There are a lot of
props out there on the market that have been shortened without the approval
of the Manufacturer. Don't buy one of these metal props.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
Herman,
Sorry I hadn't realised you were talking about epoxy. You are right, the
long working time with epoxy means that it goes on creeping (dribbling) for
what seems like forever. I am addicted to polyesters quick gel time.
Leo
>
> Leo, you are correct in that you should do as dry a layup as possible.
> Using the squegee method will do that.
> However, it is my experience in working with epoxy resin that some
> will always run down so you had better prepare for it.
> Tony's article on fiberglass layups on the RV canopy basically say
> the same.
> This stuff is also like working with a tar baby or proseal. Before
> long you find the resin is on everything.
> Cheers, Herman
>> Herman,
>>
>> Most of your advice is excellent including the "mask everything" rule.
>> However....you shouldn't have a lot of resin dripping out of the layup, if
>> you do it means that you have too much resin and therefore extra weight and
>> less strength. I would suggest using your technique only for the first layer
>> of glass. Then add the extra layers and use a brush to stipple the resin
>> through these. Only add more resin if you just can't wet the top layer no
>> matter how hard you work it with the brush. Should give a lighter overall
>> result.
>>
>> Leo Davies
>>
>> leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks) |
| Subject: | Fiberglass technique |
rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes:
>>After spreading resin over the glass tape or
>>cloth with a squeegee, cover it with a layer of Saran Wrap and roll it
>>with the equivalent of a photographic print roller. Properly done, this
>>helps ensure that: (a) the weave is thoroughly impregnated with resin
>>and (b) no excess resin remains in the weave.
I use this same approach, but with plastic dropcloth material. I It is
stronger -- it comes in various thicknesses -- and you can use a plastic
squeege over it to push out excess resin. After the resin cures, the
dropcloth peels right off leaving a very smooth surface. This is the
equivalent of a "poor man's vacuum bag". It only works on flat or single
curved sections, but it works very well, especially if you are "feathering" a
patch on an existing piece. I have only used it with epoxy resin, so I don't
know if polyester will melt the dropcloth. Try it...
Dann Parks
Sunnyvale, CA
dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org
6A emp under construction
Taping on the stiffeners... more on that later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inst. panel mods |
>Now, how do I word this to avoid the "flame" accusations?
>
>I have unchecked the MIME box in my Windows Messaging properties, turned
>off all the attributes I can find, so I would appreciate a callback if all
>is still not OK. What I have to wonder about is why I am not having ANY
>problem receiving ANY mail, including attachments, and, as indicated by
>welcome responses to my questions, it is obvious that others are receiving
>my mail too. I try to keep the latest messaging software on my system, and
>expect to enjoy the latest features. If I were accessing the List using a
>Commodore 128 (my previous system!) using ASCII text-only software, I would
>certainly not complain that I was unable to read attached JPEG files or see
>TrueType fonts. What I'm getting at is, "Is it my system or yours?" (THE
>FLAME?)
>
You call that a flame? I'll show you a flame! Oops, wrong group (red face).
>I've noticed from the returned quotes that contain the extra "=" or "=20"
>characters that they only appear at the end of a line that is in the MIDDLE
>of a sentence, never at the end of a sentence. Does this have something to
>do with the formatting of the text?
I would guess that it's a remnant from the editor that you're using to
attach a file.
>What else should I check?
>
>Man, I'm tryin' to help.
>
>Darrell Anderson
>
Darrell,
Whatever the problem was has apparently been fixed. Thanks for the
follow-up. Except for the the funny formating of the reply text that you
sent with the above, which I cut for brevity, your reply was "perfeck". =20
Later, and back to RV- stuff.
Mike Weller RV 80187 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
But, now do any of your have a better way than this? Remember I hate
deburring.
I, too, hate deburring and would like to put in a good word for the Cleaveland
chatterless deburring bits. After deburring my empenage and wings with Avery's
hand deburring tool, I thought there must be a better way. I just recently
bought one of the Cleaveland bits and I am very impressed with it. Used in an
electric screw driver, it produces a real smooth edge and to quote Cleaveland's
catalog it "makes deburring drilled holes almost effortless." I wish I had
been using it from day one.
Bob Hall
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Strange Messages From RV-List... |
Doug and RV-List et al,
A few members have complained of receiving messages like the one below
every once in a while, usually in a batch of 3 or 4. After a day or so,
everything is back to normal. But why?
Well, I havn't really had a good answer since I've never actually received
any of these messages myself. This weekend I finally discovered what I think
is happening.
To handle the huge number of recipients on the RV-List (about 695), the mailer
splits all of the addresses up into groups of 30 and sends these out. On the
subscriber end it appears that everyone got the same message, which they did,
but actually about 23 copies of the message went out - to each group of
30 addresses. No problem; works great.
Except... Every once in a while something goes wrong on the system, usually
having to do with not enough processes because it is trying to handle 5 to 10
RV-List post all at the same time. When this happens, the email list software
Majordomo barfs and complains that it can't finish a particual job.
The "Apparently-To:" messages are a bit of the 'spew', you might say. Because
of the problem, Majordomo isn't able to finish the job, but the outbound email
message had already been started. 30 or so people on the List end up getting
a few of the "Apparently-To:" messages.
Now that I think I know what the problem is, I'll keep a close eye on it
and see what came be done to help it.
Just thought you might be interested...
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
>--------------
>I have been on the RV list for about a week and have been receiving
>messages just fine. In the last two or three days I have gotten these
>messages which I am on, but don't understand what they mean?? Please
>advise!!!
>
>Thanks in advance..........
>
>
>>Return-Path: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 11:01:39 -0800
>>Apparently-To: es12043(at)utech.net
>>Apparently-To: rsmith(at)alaska.com
>>Apparently-To: rnorth(at)vic.com
>>Apparently-To: jepilot(at)juno.com
>>Apparently-To: foretek(at)dcwi.com
>>Apparently-To: dirwin(at)ibm.net
>>Apparently-To: aviator(at)tseinc.com
>>Apparently-To: RWRathbun(at)aol.com
>>Apparently-To: RV4Bell(at)aol.com
>>Apparently-To: KCBROWNELL(at)aol.com
>>Apparently-To: tvitz1(at)airmail.net
>>Apparently-To: lrs(at)bayserve.net
>>Apparently-To: fletcher(at)polarnet.com
>>Apparently-To: cirenewo(at)flash.net
>>Apparently-To: JJacksoj(at)aol.com
>>Apparently-To: JEdeuce(at)aol.com
>>Apparently-To: jthomp1(at)sowest.net
>>Apparently-To: keirsrr(at)nbed.nb.ca
>>Apparently-To: rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
>>Apparently-To: wdb3(at)juno.com
>>Apparently-To: tgannon(at)otatco.com
>>Apparently-To: rmurphy(at)eng.mc.xerox.com
>>Apparently-To: Skybolt93(at)aol.com
>>Apparently-To: RMiller159(at)aol.com
>>Apparently-To: H.Williams(at)btinternet.com
>>Apparently-To: normang(at)avnet.co.uk
>>Apparently-To: kberndt(at)badlands.nodak.edu
>>Apparently-To: beatty.gary(at)mayo.edu
>>Apparently-To: Iikaiser(at)aol.com
>>Apparently-To: dckoh(at)mindspring.com
>>Apparently-To: n184da(at)cctrap.com
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>A question for RV4 pilots who have actually flown or flown in the RV8
>and handled it.
>
>How does the RV8 general handling, roll rate, aileron forces, elevator
>forces and harmonisation of controls compare with the RV4.
>
>Comparison of back seat room.
>
>Vis from front seat compared with the RV4.
>
>Any flying differences.
>--
>Rob Hatwell
Rob, As you can see from the by-line I have a -4 and fly Van's -8. The
biggest difference besides the extra horses which you will feel right away
is the rate the A/C accelerates into a roll. The roll rate itself is about
the same, but it gets started quicker because the wings are lighter and
there is less mass to accelerate. The stick in the prototype is shorter
which does not feel the same as the rest of the planes, but other than that
it flies like an RV. There are subtle differences, but there are subtle
differences between the two RV-6A's (one is actually a RV-6T). The cg is
further forward in the -8 than in the -4 which makes the landing a little
different, but that is about it. Visibility is better than a -4 and the
back seat is more spacious. Seems as though I spent 50% of the time there
going to Copperstate last year and I am 6'1" and 205 lbs and growing out.
My son has me sit in the back of my RV-4 so I can relate to the back of the
-4. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Pickle Proc.??? |
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>I am in the process of storing a IO-360A3B6D for my RV-8 and want to get some
>input on how best to pickle this thing. I have read the archives and Tony
>Bengelis's Firewall Forward but still have a few questions.
>
>Tony's book say's drain the oil and replace with corrosion preventative mixture
>Mil-C6529. I can't find this stuff in any of my catalogs. ACS has called
>Poly-Fiber ESO Engine Storage Oil with a MIl-1-21260 (pg 241 in '96-'97 ACS
>Cat.. Is this the same stuff and if not should I use it?
>
>What is the best Oil to spray the cylinder walls with? I have been just
shooting
>WD-40 in there for now and turning the motor over a couple of times. There
are a
>couple of CRC Products that look better to me such as CRC Corrosion Shell (ACS
>pg 245) that I guess has a waxy film that will not run off.
> Thanks in advance for the help
>
> Greg Puckett 80081 (Waiting for Spars)
> 71155.2336(at)CompuServe.COM
>Greg, When Lyc came out here to do the service check for the wrist pins,
they mixed up a mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil (one can of MMO to about 8 qts
of oil)and the cheapest grade of 30 weight oil we could buy, then filled
the engine up. They suggested then that we rotate the engines, ie:
physically turn them over every 30 days so the mixture would recoat
everything. They also put the engines in a plastic bag, sucked the air out
with a vaccuum cleaner and tied the bag off. This should do the trick.
Keep the engine in a heated or semi-heated area. We had a front come
through last month and the temperature changed dramatically. When I went
out to the hangar, my tools were all dripping wet, and my new $19K engine
had beads of water all over it. The temp had just come up dramatically
allowing the air to hold more moisture, and when it contacted any metal
which was still frigid, condensation occured. I don't even want to think
what happened inside the cylinders. The fuel pump has surface corrosion all
over it now. But on the other side, there are a lot of other planes
sitting outside, and some of them have been in this climate for years and
they just keep on going, so it does not mean imminent destruction. One of
our women builders in Canada bought a new engine several years before she
needed it and used it as a coffee table. She claimed that none of her
friends could brag of having a more expensive table. Probably a good move
on her part. PS: She just recently flew in her new RV-6A.
Spraying with WD-40 is not the best thing. WD-40 is good at loosening rust
and getting into tight places as it penetrates, but this same
characteristic will allow it to wash the oil right off the metal parts you
are trying to coat. What I am saying is the WD is a solvent and solvents
will cut the oil. The plastic bag and MMO mixture will do a good job of
preserving the engine. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jordan <ace(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Best Pickle Proc.??? |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC07D4.AFA63DA0
I can't speak about pickleing an engine, since I have never done it. =
However, I have always winterized my boat by spraying some fogging oil =
into the carburetor while the engine is running (although you may not be =
able to do this). It coats the cylinder walls and protects the plugs =
without fouling. Fires right off the next spring. Any marine supply =
store carries it.
Terry Jordan (tail finished, waiting for the QB wings/fuselage)
----------
From: Greg Puckett[SMTP:CompuServe.COM!71155.2336(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 1997 9:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Best Pickle Proc.???
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: Greg Puckett =
<71155.2336(at)CompuServe.COM>
Hello everyone,
I am in the process of storing a IO-360A3B6D for my RV-8 and want to get =
some
input on how best to pickle this thing. I have read the archives and =
Tony
Bengelis's Firewall Forward but still have a few questions.=20
Tony's book say's drain the oil and replace with corrosion preventative =
mixture
Mil-C6529. I can't find this stuff in any of my catalogs. ACS has called
Poly-Fiber ESO Engine Storage Oil with a MIl-1-21260 (pg 241 in '96-'97 =
ACS
Cat.. Is this the same stuff and if not should I use it?
What is the best Oil to spray the cylinder walls with? I have been just =
shooting
WD-40 in there for now and turning the motor over a couple of times. =
There are a
couple of CRC Products that look better to me such as CRC Corrosion =
Shell (ACS
pg 245) that I guess has a waxy film that will not run off.
What keeps corrosion from forming on the cam lobes? It does not seem =
like the
Engine Storage Oil would do them much good other than possibly keeping =
moisture
out. Is there any type of fogging oil spray you could spray in the =
crankcase
that could help?
Thanks in advance for the help
Greg Puckett 80081 (Waiting for Spars)
71155.2336(at)CompuServe.COM
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC07D4.AFA63DA0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop questions |
>
>I guess that I should have been more specific. What I meant to say is: A
>metal prop shouldn't be shortened arbitraily. Of course if the Manufacturer
>says it's ok, then they have checked it out and it's ok. There are a lot of
>props out there on the market that have been shortened without the approval
>of the Manufacturer. Don't buy one of these metal props.
>
>Dave,
Dave, Not flaming you, just adding a few thoughts,
As an electrical engineer, we have a term called resonance. Mechanically,
there is also a resonance characteristic. All objects will resonate at some
frequency, and metal objects just happen to resonate at a frequency that
can be destructive at the rpm's we turn. Shortening a prop will increase
the frequency a metal prop will resonate and repitching a metal prop will
likewise change its resonance characteristic. When a prop is certified, it
goes through a series of tests where the resonance characteristics are
determined. These tests help the engineers determine how short the prop can
be cut before it is self destructive. The reason Sensenich does not have a
fixed pitch metal prop for the O-360 is it has too many resonances with the
current blanks and prop design they are currently using. If you want to
read an honest testimony, go to their home page and look at the article on
testing the 180hp prop on Martin Sutters plane. In one mode, the prop had
a life of just a few minutes (I think). Things get wild if you loose a foot
of your metal prop. However, metal props are a good investment and will
give you years of good service if kept within the limits as defined by the
prop manufacturer. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shameless Commerce |
I have the following excess new items for sale. BTW, did I mention they were
NEW. Prices include shipping by Slo-mo.
Hobbs M4006-4 Oil Pressure Switch, paid $21, sell $15.
Essex K2404-1/8 Engine Primer, paid $56, sell $40.
Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks) |
| Subject: | Re: panel layout software |
I have the software called "Panel Planner". I find it helpful and fun for
initial planning and "what ifs.." The database is fairly extensive including
digital and some new "glass cockpit" products, but will always require
updating for the latest products (I don't recall seing a update system in the
docs) and could never include everything. It creates a panel with pictures of
the actual instruments which is very realistic looking. There are some
technical charts on hole cutouts and it will print the panel full size in
tiles, but I think this is only good for laying it up on the real panel in
the plane to see how it would look. I think for the best accuracy it would be
best to transfer your final design to a good CAD program for a final cutting
plot. I'm having some problems with it locking up on my WIN 95 system but
have not called their tech support yet about it.
Overall I would say that if you like to experiment with different designs,
it's worth it. If you know what you want and where you want it, then do it in
CAD.
My 2 cents...
Dann Parks
Sunnyvale, CA
dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org
6A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
<< If you're considering this, I would highly recommend plumbing a vapour
return line to your tanks. You may not have to use it but if you do,
its there...I wish I had.
Ken >>
I'm going to 'assume' (uh-oh) that you may be having some starting problems.
The good folks at Airflow Performance have a nifty return line/valve that
connects to the flow divider, for purging the system, and for shut-down (idle
cut-off is not used). You may want to check up on this. Their phone # was
posted earlier...
Check six!
Mark
mlfred@aol- America (sometimes) Online
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gibbous <gibbous(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
Hi Leo,
I'm not exactly sure how I got this. Can you fill me in?
Leo Davies wrote:
> =
> =3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies
> =
> Herman,
> Sorry I hadn't realised you were talking about epoxy. You are right, th=
e
> long working time with epoxy means that it goes on creeping (dribbling)=
for
> what seems like forever. I am addicted to polyesters quick gel time.
> Leo
> >=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: Herman Dierks
> >
> > Leo, you are correct in that you should do as dry a layup as possible=
=2E
> > Using the squegee method will do that.
> > However, it is my experience in working with epoxy resin that some
> > will always run down so you had better prepare for it.
> > Tony's article on fiberglass layups on the RV canopy basically say
> > the same.
> > This stuff is also like working with a tar baby or proseal. Before
> > long you find the resin is on everything.
> > Cheers, Herman
> >> Herman,
> >>
> >> Most of your advice is excellent including the "mask everything" rul=
e.
> >> However....you shouldn't have a lot of resin dripping out of the lay=
up, if
> >> you do it means that you have too much resin and therefore extra wei=
ght and
> >> less strength. I would suggest using your technique only for the fir=
st layer
> >> of glass. Then add the extra layers and use a brush to stipple the r=
esin
> >> through these. Only add more resin if you just can't wet the top lay=
er no
> >> matter how hard you work it with the brush. Should give a lighter o=
verall
> >> result.
> >>
> >> Leo Davies
> >>
> >> leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
-- =
--->Edgar
http://www.netforward.com/cyberjunkie/?gibbous
"Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death
and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the
fighter=92s honor."
--Ernest Hemingway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Details |
>
>Does anyone know the differances between the HC-C2YK-1BF prop that Vans
>sells and a HC-C2YK-2RBF. I know that the -2RBF is a feathering prop,
>Will it go into feather if you lose oil pressure? Is it a "compact hub"
>design?does it weight more than a -1BF? Vans sells a 72" prop, would a
>74" prop be to big for a RV-6, could the blades be shortened 1".What is
>the approx. overhaul cost for a C/S prop?
>
>Chris Brooks RV-6
Chris,
Here's the deal as I have it. The designator HC-C2YK-2BF is for the hub
only. To determine engine/prop compatability as Hartzell has CERTIFIED the
prop you need to include the blade numbers. There are a boatload of blades
that could be on the HC-C2YK hub you refer to. The suffix -2RBF stands for
(2R) larger piston area in the hub 20.2 sq. in. vs. 16.25 sq.in, (B)
modified pitch change system, (F) modified pitch change knob.
The Blade that is on the hub that Van offers (F7666A-4) is certified for use
on a number of 0-360 engine configurations with a max and min diamiter of
72". The -4 indicates the blade is cut down 4" from it's basic designed
diameter. The basic 7666-0 blade in designed to be use on 180 hp engines
with a max diameter of 76" and a minimum of 68". During testing the correct
lenght is determined based on a number of reasons one being vibration. This
prop has a yellow rpm arc between 2000 and 2250 due to vibration
characteristics with the O-360 A1A and other "4 bangers". (as a note there
are some blades not used on our engines i.e. the C-8468 that can be used
between 84" to 72". These are used on some 540's. Thats some cutdown!)
Now since this is an experimental, you can do anything you want. BUT you
will be testing the prop and could run into situation that you don't like.
One reason to go with the 72" blade is ground clearance. It's as close as I
want on my 4 with the original gear legs.
If you want to give me the blade numbers on the prop you are looking at I'll
look it up for you. I have a copy of (14 pages long) The Type certificate
"P-290" for this hub series.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying 2 1/2 years (180 C/S)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
<< If you're considering this, I would highly recommend plumbing a
vapour
return line to your tanks. You may not have to use it but if you do,
its there...I wish I had.
Ken >>
I'm going to 'assume' (uh-oh) that you may be having some starting
problems.
The good folks at Airflow Performance have a nifty return line/valve
that
connects to the flow divider, for purging the system, and for shut-down
(idle
cut-off is not used). You may want to check up on this. Their phone #
was
posted earlier...
Hi Mark, actually, starting isn't a problem for me, if the engine has
run at all I use a flooded start with throttle wide open and mixture
full lean and it starts pretty good (you have to be quick reversing the
controls).
My problem is a surging of the engine when its been very hot soaked and
running at idle (its not happening now because its cccccold outside).
Once cool fuel is running through everything, it runs fine.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Gracely <gracely(at)yoda.nidr.nih.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop questions |
Carrying a little extra amount of (trimmable) prop can provide some
insurance. The prop shortening limits also provide for possible repair
after a bad nick, etc. Having an extra inch, that can be removed LATER,
onced saved me from buying a new prop.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard H. Gracely, PhD
Pain and Neurosensory Mechanisms Branch
National Institute of Dental Research, National Institutes of Health
Mail: NIH, Building 10, Room 1N-103, Bethesda, Maryland 20892
Phone: (301) 496 5238 Fax: (301) 496 2443
E-mail: Gracely(at)yoda.nidr.nih.gov
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)flinthills.com |
| Subject: | Re: panel layout software |
>
>Has anyone tried the panel layout software that's available for $100? I
>was wondering if it can lay out hole cut-outs, screw hole positions,
>etc...
>
>I plan on using a CNC vertical milling center to cut all the holes out
>in my panel, and can do so simply (well, almost) by exporting an AutoCAD
>drawing to the machine--it can interpret .DWG files. I haven't gotten
>very far yet with the drawing, but have laid out in AutoCAD the tip-up
>instrument panel prints according to Van's drawings--which are different
>from the slider that I'm building.
>
>If anyone has any GOOD AutoCAD drawings of a slider panel, I would
>greatly appreciate them.
>
>Thanks
>Bob Japundza
>
>Bob,
I have used the Panel Planner program that I got for $100. It
already has the dimensions of the RV's, instruments, etc. My panel is all
worked out and is printed to scale. Of course you can change any thing
around. It has an extensive library on CD Rom. Be advised that this is a
huge program and can really be a slow process if you have a computer like
mine. Oh by the way, it does give you screw patterns to scale also.
Tim Sweemer
RV 4 (Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)flinthills.com |
Just a tip. I found that my rivet gun wasn't working very well and couldn't
figure it out for awhile. After reasoning things out I concluded that the
oil in the gun was like the oil in my truck on cold mornings so I put the
gun in front of the kerosene heater for a minute or two and it started
working fine. By the way, the work was being done on the floor in a jig
(leading edge) and I kept setting the gun on the floor. I checked and the
floor temp was 30 degrees. That's the best I could do with the heater I've got.
Also on cold floors and knees that have seen better days, get a pair
of plastic coated, padded knee pads and your knees will love you for it.
Tim Sweemer
RV 4 (Wings)
It's never too cold to work on the RV!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: panel layout software |
Hi Bob,
What kind of machine are you using that can use .DWG files directly? I'm
not a machinist but I have used their services quite a few times here at
work. Every time I produce a drawing for manufacture it has to be
essentially re-drawn using a program the machine can understand. The
machinists here are unaware of any machine which will accept .DWG. They are
also unaware of any software that will translate from .DWG or .DXF to
something understandable by their machine. Perhaps the whole thing is a job
security scam on the part of the machinist.
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Has anyone tried the panel layout software that's available for $100? I
>was wondering if it can lay out hole cut-outs, screw hole positions,
>etc...
>
>I plan on using a CNC vertical milling center to cut all the holes out
>in my panel, and can do so simply (well, almost) by exporting an AutoCAD
>drawing to the machine--it can interpret .DWG files. I haven't gotten
>very far yet with the drawing, but have laid out in AutoCAD the tip-up
>instrument panel prints according to Van's drawings--which are different
>from the slider that I'm building.
>
>If anyone has any GOOD AutoCAD drawings of a slider panel, I would
>greatly appreciate them.
>
>Thanks
>Bob Japundza
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | RV list: Paint Mask |
I'd like to replace the Norton respirator that I've been using for years.
I've had to replace the elastic headbands many times. Evidently, the
quality of rubber in the Norton is not very good and I'm getting tired of
fooling with it. So, if you have a mask that you're happy with, whose
headbands you don't have to replace, that fits comfortably and that you
recommend, would you please E-mail me off-list (so we don't clutter the
list) with the brand name. I'll post a summary to list at a latter time.
By the way, I do have a hobby air, which I like very much. I use the mask
for short term use. If I'm doing a lot of painting, I always use the Hobby
air. Right now, I'm grinding fiberglass on the Glastar vertical stab and
there is a lot of sand & fitting going on and I find the mask more
convenient. Besides, when it's really cold, the Hobby Air gets cold as well.
Thanks, Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <bob(at)eislogan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: panel layout software |
Mike Wills wrote:
>
>
> Hi Bob,
> What kind of machine are you using that can use .DWG files directly? I'm
> not a machinist but I have used their services quite a few times here at
> work. Every time I produce a drawing for manufacture it has to be
> essentially re-drawn using a program the machine can understand. The
> machinists here are unaware of any machine which will accept .DWG. They are
> also unaware of any software that will translate from .DWG or .DXF to
> something understandable by their machine. Perhaps the whole thing is a job
> security scam on the part of the machinist.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Wills
> RV-4 (wings)
> willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
> >
> >Has anyone tried the panel layout software that's available for $100? I
> >was wondering if it can lay out hole cut-outs, screw hole positions,
> >etc...
> >
> >I plan on using a CNC vertical milling center to cut all the holes out
> >in my panel, and can do so simply (well, almost) by exporting an AutoCAD
> >drawing to the machine--it can interpret .DWG files. I haven't gotten
> >very far yet with the drawing, but have laid out in AutoCAD the tip-up
> >instrument panel prints according to Van's drawings--which are different
> >from the slider that I'm building.
> >
> >If anyone has any GOOD AutoCAD drawings of a slider panel, I would
> >greatly appreciate them.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Bob Japundza
> >
> >
The machine is a Hurco. It will directly take .DWG files and bring them
up on the machine's screen. Holes, etc. are located from the drawing,
and you select how deep you want your pockets and holes by "clicking" on
areas of your drawing.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Engine monitors (new info) |
For those interested in an all-in-one electronic engine monitoring system, I
have added the Allegro Avionics Inc. M816 to my previous comparison. The
price is comparable to the others when configured as shown, but it leaves
out some significant functions (as a stand-alone CHT/EGT scanner however it
is fairly cost effective at $859 including probes).
As soon as I have the Grand Rapids Technologies Engine Monitoring System
data I will add it to the list. If anyone knows of another scanner
possibility please let me know (sun'n'fun is not that far away ).
********************************************************************************
Minimum system capabilities include CHT's, EGT's, oil temp & pressure, fuel
pressure, voltage, OAT, carb temp, MAP (except M816), fuel flow, tach
(except M816), etc.
RMI AV-10 M816
Base unit: 1299 1100 1218
(4) CHT probes: 116 64 inc.
(4) EGT probes: 92 106 inc.
Multiplexer switch: 36 n/a n/a
Carb temp sensor: 115 23 35
Oil temp sensor: inc. 23 35
Oil pressure sensor: inc. 35 inc.
Fuel pressure sensor: inc. 60 inc.
Fuel flow sensor(s): 163 250 439
Manifold pressure: 46 80 n/a
OAT sensor: inc. 35 35
--- --- ---
TOTALS: 1867 (built) 1776 1762
-200 100 (curr.
--- (build it --- disc.)
1667 yourself) 1676
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
(last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: panel layout software |
Tim,
Where can I get a copy of this program? What about radio stacks, circuit
breaker panels, switches, etc? How about stuff like the RMI uEncoder,
uMonitor, equipment from Vision Micro, etc? Finally does the program allow
the user to build his own stuff (for example a panel mounted bracket to hold
a portable GPS)?
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
> I have used the Panel Planner program that I got for $100. It
>already has the dimensions of the RV's, instruments, etc.
>Tim Sweemer
>RV 4 (Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bennett(at)healey.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim tab travel |
I can only get about 43 degrees of travel (for
> example 25 degrees down and 18 degrees up). The trim tab itself will move
> thru the full range of travel. The limiting factor seems to be the geometry
> of the setup. The MAC servo travels 1.2 inches per the specification. I
> don't see anything I can do to get the full 60 degrees of trim tab movement.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
Tim, you can shorten the horn (ie the distance between the trim tab
hinge pin and the horn clevis pin) to 1.2 inches. This will give you
60 deg according to the immutable laws of trig, but the horn will
probably foul the airfoil. Everybody else seems to accept the reduced
deflection. Vans haven't to my knowledge come out with a clear
statement.
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6AQ #60023
> TimRV6A(at)aol.com
>
>
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 working inside fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Help! Here I go proving i'm not perfect, again. Somehow, while I was
drilling a tank skin, I shifted it around and didn't leave the 1/2 inch
overhang on the root end. Short of new ribs and a skin, is this a
problem I can fix? If any one can tell me a way around this I would
appreciate it. I don't even care about flames. Go ahead...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass quantity, source for 6A |
>> >> matter how hard you work it with the brush. Should give a lighter o=
>verall
>> >> result.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>-- =
>
>
>--->Edgar
>http://www.netforward.com/cyberjunkie/?gibbous
>
>"Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death
>and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the
>fighter=92s honor."
> --Ernest Hemingway
>
Mr. Gibbous,
Arghh! I don't know..., but I have to tell you that sticking the =92 really
makes me think of what Hemingway would say. He would say, "What is a
fighter=92s' honor? I just don't get it. Could it be a symbolic reference
to the FY2000 problem?" You see, Hemingway would have surely been thinking
of 1892 not 1992. There is a dark, unblemished, inscrutible, but honest
quality to the 1892's, I'm sure Hemingway would agree. But, I too, just
don't get it.
Mike Weller RV 80187 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I'm back again. I think All I need to do to remedy the aforementioned
problem is to trim the outboard end of the skin, and to add a piece to
the root end about the same size as the splice plate that the tank
attaches to on the outboard end. It won't cause any problems other than
the extra .032 stepdown when I attach the wing to fuse. fairing. I'm
hoping it won't be noticed. If any of you with more experience than I
have with this sort of problem have a suggestion, fire away. I'm always
listening. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
Has anyone found any extra speed in the setting of the flaps either lower
or higher than the airfoil template? Also in the ailerons ? I have a Rv4
0320d1a cs prop , 178 mph cruise. Thank you
Tony Partain
17PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
I'm going to be in Phoenix at a workshop on Jan 29 to the 31st. I'll be
free in the evenings and would like to look at RV-6 or 6A projects in
the latter stages of construction or flying. I'm just about to install
the sliding canopy and instruments/electrical. I also have not
installed the engine yet. I'm handy and would be glad to lend a hand,
be a second set of eyes looking out for bogies or help you drain excess
quantities of fermented hops you've been meaning to get rid of. Please
contact me direct we don't tie up the list, thanks.
Frank Smidler
RV-6 fueslage on the gear (and now back off)
smidler(at)dcwi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Mike,
As far as I know, the over hang is only used for the mounting of the platenuts
to attach the intersection fairing. Providing that your baffle is long enough
and everything else fits, you can rivet on a strip or tabs (spaced for the
fairing platenuts) to the inside of the rib and/or skin (if there's space),
add a shim on top to match the skin height and attach the platenuts to
that/those. It works, because I had to do that to mine.
Les Williams
RV-6AQB #60027 Tip-up, ME complete, picked-up QB 12/18, wings first
RV-6A #20299, complete 4/92, sold 10/95, 350 great hrs
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Michael C. Lott
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 1997 1:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: -4 fuel tank
Help! Here I go proving i'm not perfect, again. Somehow, while I was
drilling a tank skin, I shifted it around and didn't leave the 1/2 inch
overhang on the root end. Short of new ribs and a skin, is this a
problem I can fix? If any one can tell me a way around this I would
appreciate it. I don't even care about flames. Go ahead...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)flinthills.com |
| Subject: | Re: panel layout software |
>Mike,
The phone number for their tech support is 208-323-8724 (it's the
only number I've got for them) and the address is Inteactive Solutions,Inc
P.O. Box 1042 Boise, Idaho 83714. It can throw in all that you say except
the mounting bracket for a portable GPS, I think. Keep in mind, this is for
the panel only and not the entire cockpit.
Tim Sweemer
RV4 Wings
>Tim,
> Where can I get a copy of this program? What about radio stacks, circuit
>breaker panels, switches, etc? How about stuff like the RMI uEncoder,
>uMonitor, equipment from Vision Micro, etc? Finally does the program allow
>the user to build his own stuff (for example a panel mounted bracket to hold
>a portable GPS)?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 (wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>
>> I have used the Panel Planner program that I got for $100. It
>>already has the dimensions of the RV's, instruments, etc.
>>Tim Sweemer
>>RV 4 (Wings)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tony vitz <tvitz.airmail.net(at)mail.airmail.net> |
| Subject: | wiring tail light and rudder installation |
I want to wire the tail light before final installation of the
fiberglass rudder bottom. The plan now is to run the wire up through the
bottom rib of the rudder and through the spar just above the rod end bearing
plate, then up through the tunnel created by the leading edge, then out
through the leading edge where it will meet the bottom of the vertical
stabilizer. Any suggestions?
In addition, I found out that my plane will not be perfect. When the
rudder is connected to the vertical stabilizer, there is a larger gap on the
right side between the rudder and the stabilizer skin. Will that be a
problem?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best Pickle Proc.??? |
I don't have my lycoming engine operators manual here at the house, it
is at the hangar; but I know it has detailed information in the back of it on
how to pickle a engine,. Check with someone who has a operators/owners manual
and see if it is in there, if not you can E-Mail me and I will get it for
you.
Chris May
N595CM(at)aol.com
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
It has been awhile since I looked at my flying RV-4 root end fuel tank but
the best I remember the only thing the 1/2" overhang does is give you a place
to attach nut plates to attach your wing to fuselage fairing. In this case
you could do what you are planning and it will be covered up by the fairing
anyway. Remember the best looking airplanes are the ones that the builders
learned how to cover up their mistakes the best!!!!!
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
<< On the pressure side, to get the alum fitting to seal, you
may have to try several different fittings to find one that will tighten
sufficiently and end up pointing in the direction you desire. You have to
tighten these fittings very snug, but, at the same time, careful you don't
crack the fitting. When you think that any more tightening will crack the
fitting, stop, and see where the outlet is pointing. If it's not where you
want it, try another fitting. If you back it up it will leak. If you
tighten it more, you may break it. This can be very frustrating. >>
I used Permatex Form A Gasket (non-hardening type) on the threads for the
screw-in brass fittings and had no trouble getting them snug and pointed in
the right direction on the master cylinders. This was on the advise of my
local A&P.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A western VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bseckstein(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Long Range Fuel Tanks |
I would like to thank everyone who helped me investigate long range tanks.
Especially Mr. Pilla who got me in touch with Claudio Tonini. Claudio has a
-4 with long range tanks called 'Purple Passion'. What a great guy! I
called and left a message on his answering machine. He called back, and I
was so happy to speak with him that I didn't have the presence of mind to
tell him to hang up and let me call him back. We talked for a while on his
dime. Like most (all) of us, he loves to talk airplanes. He lives in NJ, I
live in MI. I owe him one.
Other sources of information were a technical counselor, a heavy metal A&P
inspector (Family member) and Van's (I asked some direct questions like "can
I drill a hole here", they in no way sanction what I am doing.) Here is what
I am doing.
The RV-6 tanks have a rib spacing of 9.1 inches. Because I want to utilize
as many stock parts as possible, I extended the tanks by exactly two fuel
bays, 18.2 inches. This results in a 53+ gallon fuel capacity.
Looking at RV-6 drawing 13 you can see that flange strip W-606D extends to
sta. 91.5. The W-606B doubler lays flat on W-606D, so sta. 91.5 would be as
far as you would want to extend the doubler (which secures the fuel tank)
without mounting concerns. By extending the tanks by 18.2 inches, the
doubler will end short of this mark. Also, we need to consider leading edge
rib W-408-1 which is at sta. 71.5. 18.2 + 71.5 = 89.7. Still within the
W-606D length. The tie down point doesn't need to move.
Additional parts needed are 18.2" extensions to the skins, 3 - additional
tank ribs for each side, 18.2" extensions to the web doubler for mounting the
tank, and replacing the provided rear tank baffle with custom made baffles
cut to length.
In order to do this, you must build your own spar and include the 18.2 "
extension to the doubler in the construction. Also, you must drill a hole
half way between the last two holes on W-606D for mounting W-408-1. One
could put a single skin over the entire tank, but I have decided to 'butt'
joint the pre punched skin to an 18.2" blank extension, securing the joint
with back to back ribs (one left, one right) that's the way the heavy metal
does it, I'm told. The pre punched skin will be outboard and the extension,
inboard. I will have to plug the pre cut drain hole in the pp skin.
Oh, extrapolating from Van's figures:
160hp
75% - 5.67 hours, 1065 SM
55% - 7.30 hours, 1233 SM
Brian Eckstein
All spar components, including extensions, primed and ready. Construction
this week end.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thinking about building a RV-6 |
I'm thinking about building a RV-6 and would like to talk to some who is
building on the central coast of California. I live in Santa Maria, CA.
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred New <fred(at)ics.ee> |
On Wed, 22 Jan 1997 flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com wrote:
> Just a tip. I found that my rivet gun wasn't working very well and could=
n't
> figure it out for awhile. After reasoning things out I concluded that th=
e
> oil in the gun was like the oil in my truck on cold mornings so I put the
> gun in front of the kerosene heater for a minute or two and it started
> working fine.
Another thing to watch out for is ice forming in your tools. The
expanding air in your air tool will freeze the water that was in the air
when it was sucked in by the compressor. I actually don't know much about
it, but I've heard that some air compressor installations have some sort
of water separator.
--
Fred New, Systems Administrator
IC Systems | Mustam=E4e tee 12 | EE0006 Tallinn | Eston=
ia
Internet--fred(at)ics.ee voice--(372) 656-5477 fax--(372) 656-5476
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wiring tail light and rudder installation |
Tony
You can fix the problem with the rudder offset if it bothers you. I have
done this for a couple of builders who did the same thing. You can open up
the vertical stab, unfortunately by drilling out several rivets. Next remove
the rivets holding on the nut plate and nut plate doubler. Now you can
enlarge the hole that the rod end bolt goes through to the side you need (a
little goes a long way) rotate the nut plate 90 degrees and move it over the
amount required. With the nut plate rotated you can drill 2 new holes in the
doubler. Fill the old 2 holes with rivets. This fix doesnt take to long and
offers good results.
If it doesnt bother you I know of one RV in the area who has the same problem
and says it flys just fine as is.
Ryan Bendure RV4131RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. John M. Ely" <jmely(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring tail light and rudder installation |
tony vitz wrote:
>
I want to wire the tail light before final installation of the
> fiberglass rudder bottom.......Any suggestions?
Tony: I'm installing my rudder bottom/tail light right now too and will
simply keep the wires in the fiberglass portion, exiting at the front
about 2 inches below the bottom bearing/hinge. There is no need to go
up into the metal structure of the rudder at all. I plan to use a quick
disconect plugs in the gap between the rudder and VS and at the tail
light so I can disconect the rudder easily and can pull the light unit
out later for servicing. A small grommet/bushing in the lower right
triangle (on the F612 bulkhead) formed by the side skin and the bottom
VS spar taper will allow the wires to enter the fuselage. I've see this
set-up on other RV's and looks neat and effective.
John Ely finishing......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmurphy(at)eng.mc.xerox.com (Rex Murphy) |
| Subject: | Re: Long Range Fuel Tanks |
Brian:
You dog!
Wrecks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Canopy covers and flight manual |
Before I go off and spend MORE money, could someone please give
recommendations on two things:
1. Canopy cover for a 6A tip up.
2. Theres an RV flight manual advertised in the back of Sport
Aviation...anyone seen it...used it?
I'm starting to plan my first real long cross country in the RV from
Toronto to Sun 'n fun then on to the Bahamas for some Island hopping
and SCUBA. Boy this is SO much fun..and thats without leaving the
ground! This one trip alone will make all the work wothwhile.
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Tip Up Canopy Tip |
Here's another tip up canopy tip learned the hard way. When fitting the
forward attachment hardware for the gas struts, make sure you have your
instrument panel in place. If not, the forward ball and socket joint of
the gas struts will contact your instrument panel when you attempt to
close the canopy.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best Pickle Proc.??? |
<< I have been just shooting WD-40 in there for now and turning the motor
over a couple of times. >>
Hi RV people
A note on WD-40. The materials engineering group that I used to work in
before I retired ran an analysis on WD-40 and the stuff is a mix of kerosene
and lard (as in pig fat). The kerosene acts as a penetrant oil and the lard
act as a lubricant. That is until the lard turns rancid and gets gummy.
Then you spray on some more WD-40 and everything loosens up again until the
lard turns rancid and gets gummy, etc. There is a tendency to have a build-up
if used extensively. It would probably burn out of the inside of an engine
but please use sparingly.
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
working on the canopy again
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring tail light |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Tony,
I ran my tail light wires in the rudder bottom fairing. They exit the
fairing BELOW the lower rod end bearing on the hing center line. If the
rudder has to be removed, the wires are pulled out of it, along with a
string for easy re-assembly.
To protect the wires, the standard push in plastic bushings were used
in both the rudder fairing and fuselage tail area. Since I have a Whalen
tail strobe, the wire bundle is large. To date, I've not had any any
breakage problems in the 825Hrs+ that the plane has been flown..... Be
sure to run a seperate ground wire from the rudder light back to the
fuselage........
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>
> I want to wire the tail light before final installation of the
>fiberglass rudder bottom. The plan now is to run the wire up through
the
>bottom rib of the rudder and through the spar just above the rod end
bearing
>plate, then up through the tunnel created by the leading edge, then out
>through the leading edge where it will meet the bottom of the vertical
>stabilizer. Any suggestions?
>
*** Snip ****
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wiring tail light and rudder installation |
<32E71C0B.3903(at)shentel.net>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
John & Tony & other listers,
Be careful what type of connector you use in this location. It will be
exposed to all the elements. Moisture will eventually cause corrosion
which will eventually make it fail. Also, another connector represents
another failure point, especially in an area where there is the potential
for a lot of movement.
A better approach may be make the tail light wire bundle completely
removeable from the rudder. The obvious restriction here is that
connectors at the end of this wire must be capable of being pulled
through the finished assembly. If they can't, then they have to be
completed AFTER the rudder is installed (and removed if the rudder is
removed, but how many times will that happen?). Dropping a string through
the rudder assembly PRIOR to installation is recommended.
Be sure to include a ground wire between the rudder and the fuselage.
Failure to do this will result in the possibility of an intermittent
connection.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>tony vitz wrote:
>>
> I want to wire the tail light before final installation of the
>> fiberglass rudder bottom.......Any suggestions?
>
>Tony: I'm installing my rudder bottom/tail light right now too and will
>simply keep the wires in the fiberglass portion, exiting at the front
>about 2 inches below the bottom bearing/hinge. There is no need to go
>up into the metal structure of the rudder at all. I plan to use a quick
>disconect plugs in the gap between the rudder and VS and at the tail
>light so I can disconect the rudder easily and can pull the light unit
>out later for servicing. A small grommet/bushing in the lower right
>triangle (on the F612 bulkhead) formed by the side skin and the bottom
>VS spar taper will allow the wires to enter the fuselage. I've see this
>set-up on other RV's and looks neat and effective.
>
>John Ely finishing......
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fiberglass education needed |
Anybody know of a good book covering fiberglass layups for a novice? I need
to construct the transition pieces between the gear leg and wheel pant and I
have never worked with fiberglass at this level before.
Thanks for your input,
Don Riggs
RV-4
"Valeries Nightmare"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Jones <trout(at)Alaska.NET> |
| Subject: | RV4 Aileron to control stick pushrod assembly question |
Drawing 16A specifies MD-42 BS pop rivets. Is there a better (stronger)
way to do this, i.e. cherry-max rivets, thru bolts, or welding?
Any help or advice would be much appreciated
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
I have a friend planning to purchase an RV4. I would appreciate any info
as to the critical inspection points one should look for. Are there any
past "AD's" or common problems that needed attention? He's going to do a
prepurchase inspection with the aid of an A&P 1/29/97. Please respond to
me directly. This aircraft was registered in 1987 and has over 1300 hrs.
on it!! (The guy really loved to fly it)
Thanks in advance..
Ed Cole RV6A
emcole(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
A Heads Up . . . .
A reader contacted me late last week asking about the
suitabilty of Mil-W-5086 wire in his project . . .
seems he stumbled across a supply of this wire as
surplus roll ends from a CURRENT military production
contract.
I haven't heard that number tossed around in years. This
WAS one of the wire types we used back in the 60's but
I seemed to recall that it was obsoleted when Mil-W-22759
and it's other "tef" cousins came on line. I've researched
the specification and my recollection is correct . . . the
specs were obsoleted about 1983 and prohibited use on any
new aerospace application.
Now . . . 5086 wire is basically PVC insulated. It comes with
several combinations of pvc primary, fiberglas braid and can
include a nylon over-jacket. There's another wire of that
era known as Mil-W-16878 type B which is very similar.
The wire is rated at much lower temperatures (typically
105-120C) than modern wires. It's also subject to loss of
plasticizers which makes the outer nylon jacket subject to
cracking. The stuff is still found in thousands of Cessnas
flying around out there but hey . . . . even if the wire
was free, the impact to total cost for using modern wire
versus PVC on your project is trivial.
I recommend the older wire styles be avoided even if they're
FREE . . .
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy covers and flight manual |
>Before I go off and spend MORE money, could someone please give
>recommendations on two things:
>1. Canopy cover for a 6A tip up.
>Ken RV6A Flying
Ken, I'm fairly happy with the cover that I bought from DJ Laurensten (sp).
It fits the tip up well. The only problem that I've had is that in a
strong, 90 degree wind, the cover has a tendency to slide off to the side.
When this happens, the cover will rub a little on the plexy. I've been
trying to think of a way to prevent this from happening but have not come up
with a good solution yet. (Not that I intend to let my six set outside very
often.)
Bob Skinner RV6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Gannon <tgannon(at)Otatco.com> |
| Subject: | wiring tail light and rudder installation |
I realize that this is a bit beside the point, but has anybody
contemplated using platenuts to attach the bottom rudder fairing, rather
than riveting? It's my thought that this will facilitate maintenance of
mechanicals located in the fairing (light, antenna?)
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"Empennage, Wing Spars"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Purchase |
Some things to look for on RV4;
The early motor mount brackets that bolt on the inside of the
fuselage were thin and prone to cracking. Some RV's (the prototype
for example) have lots of hours with no problems. If they have been
'dropped' in on landing, this can be a problem area.
The newer type is much stronger and is more of a 'one piece'.
You have to see them to explain the difference. The old style has
seperate 'ears' that are bolted/riveted to the side and the bottom.
The new style is a single 4130 piece for this part.
Also check the motormount in the area of the gear leg attach
(the single bolt at the top) as these sometimes wallow out.
I have seen cracks in one RV4 in the tubing just in front of the
gear legs where the 4130 tubing is welded to the gear leg socket.
Check if it has homade spar or a factory spar. Be cautious of
early homade spars prior to when the factory started drilling all
the holes in the center section.
Herman
>
> I have a friend planning to purchase an RV4. I would appreciate any info
> as to the critical inspection points one should look for. Are there any
> past "AD's" or common problems that needed attention? He's going to do a
> prepurchase inspection with the aid of an A&P 1/29/97. Please respond to
> me directly. This aircraft was registered in 1987 and has over 1300 hrs.
> on it!! (The guy really loved to fly it)
> Thanks in advance..
> Ed Cole RV6A
> emcole(at)concentric.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAllen6526(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Reply- panel layout software |
I took a look at Panel Planner and was dissapointed. The version I looked at
had lot's of instruments, but not necessarily the ones you and I would buy.
For instance, there were no RC Allen or IFR gyros. They had a good
assortment of high end stuff.
I got the impression that the avionics offerings were better. For instance,
they had our CNS-12 GPS/ACARS receiver and we haven't even shipped it yet.
It is my understanding that the later versions of the software might have
more instruments. One thing I did notice was that the user interface seemed
to make poor use of the Windows GUI. (It was awkward to use)
I did not see any capability to do 3D work. In our RV's we need to pay
particular attention to that 'Ol Z axis.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Purchase |
Sorry for the typo's in this. I was in a hurry to go to lunch.
The problem on the homemade spars was Van found that many builders
were getting the center section holes wollowed out. This scared him
enough to have the factory pri-drill and ream all the holes in the
spars.
I also saw a RV6 that was just purchased a few weeks back.
The plane blew an oil hose when it was being flown back (the plane
landed OK before all the oil was dumped).
All the fuel and oil lines were a MESS on this airplane. I don't
know how it was ever signed off. It had automotive plastic line
for the oil pressure line going to the guage. It has major kinks
in all the lines, etc. etc. The carb still had the throttle arm
that is not serated (this was an AD back in the 70's).
Most A&P's will find all this kind of problem.
This is one problem with having the builder being allowed to be
the repairman and singing off the insp. each year on a plane they
built. Someone else should be required to inspect the plane the
first year. Most FAA types never even look under the cowl on the
signoff to fly it.
Herman
>
> Some things to look for on RV4;
> The early motor mount brackets that bolt on the inside of the
> fuselage were thin and prone to cracking. Some RV's (the prototype
> for example) have lots of hours with no problems. If they have been
> 'dropped' in on landing, this can be a problem area.
> The newer type is much stronger and is more of a 'one piece'.
> You have to see them to explain the difference. The old style has
> seperate 'ears' that are bolted/riveted to the side and the bottom.
> The new style is a single 4130 piece for this part.
>
> Also check the motormount in the area of the gear leg attach
> (the single bolt at the top) as these sometimes wallow out.
> I have seen cracks in one RV4 in the tubing just in front of the
> gear legs where the 4130 tubing is welded to the gear leg socket.
>
> Check if it has homade spar or a factory spar. Be cautious of
> early homade spars prior to when the factory started drilling all
> the holes in the center section.
> Herman
>
> >
> > I have a friend planning to purchase an RV4. I would appreciate any info
> > as to the critical inspection points one should look for. Are there any
> > past "AD's" or common problems that needed attention? He's going to do a
> > prepurchase inspection with the aid of an A&P 1/29/97. Please respond to
> > me directly. This aircraft was registered in 1987 and has over 1300 hrs.
> > on it!! (The guy really loved to fly it)
> > Thanks in advance..
> > Ed Cole RV6A
> > emcole(at)concentric.net
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Mortimore" <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy covers and flight manual |
Hi Ken: I too have the dream of flying to the Bahama's, unfortunately I
have been told that the Bahama's government has restricted homebuilt
aircraft from entering their airspace, you should check it out to avoid
being disappointed.
Good luck, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie
Ontario, Canada
P6B-3K2
terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
----------
> From: J.Ken Hitchmough <magic.ca!J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Canopy covers and flight manual
> Date: Thursday, January 23, 1997 8:29 AM
>
> I'm starting to plan my first real long cross country in the RV from
> Toronto to Sun 'n fun then on to the Bahamas for some Island hopping
> and SCUBA. Boy this is SO much fun..and thats without leaving the
> ground! This one trip alone will make all the work wothwhile.
>
> Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
The Chicago Area RVators is planning an RV trip to Alaska this coming July.
The trip will follow the Chicago, Edmonton, Alaska Highway, Fairbanks route.
We are planning the trip to take two weeks. We are currently finalizing a
trip packet which will outline the itinerary and other additional
information. Two flight plans will be developed, one to accomodate RV4s and
6s, and a second to accomadate RV3s (shorter legs). The concept is to
identify proposed overnight stops, with daily flight legs of four to six
hours. This will provide adequate time for unscheduled delays. We are
trying to keep the trip as flexible as possible, allowing participants to
vary their schedules as they please. To date we have serious interest from
twelve RV pilots and would like to extend an invitation to any RV pilots who
may be interested in joining us. If you are seriously interested and would
like to be included in the planning please send me an e-mail message to the
below address. Once the trip packet is finished I will snail mail you a
copy. We anticipate the packet to be rather thick so please only ask for one
if you are at all seriously interested. I will be more than happy to answer
any of your questions or give you more information about the trip.
Rick McBride
RV6 N523JC
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lsmith(at)coastalnet.com (Louis E. Smith Jr.) |
I have the following "NEW" unused items for sale. Prices include freight.
E-mail me direct or give me a call at (919)937-4905.
(1) Comant Cl-122 VHF Com Antenna Cost: 99.00 Sale: 80.00
(1) ACS Gascolator with Installation Bracket Cost: 65.00 Sale: 50.00
(1) Essex Primer Cost: 55.00 Sale: 40.00
(1) Facet Electric Fuel Pump #40106 4-6psi Cost: 30.00 Sale: 20.00
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
RV-8 #80126 wings N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy covers and flight manual) |
> I
> have been told that the Bahama's government has restricted homebuilt
> aircraft from entering their airspace, you should check it out to avoid
> being disappointed.
Ouch! That'd be a bummer! If you do check it out (or if anyone else
knows anything about it, or for that matter any other places that have
restrictions on homebults, I'd sure like to know about it -- please
post it here!
Since all I can do for the time being is DREAM of flying exotic
places, it might as well be about places I might actually be able to
go to some day!
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy covers and flight manual |
Terry Mortimore wrote:
unfortunately I
have been told that the Bahama's government has restricted homebuilt
aircraft from entering their airspace, you should check it out to avoid
being disappointed.
Terry, you're not the first one to have said that since I posted I was
planning a trip there. I've had a couple of private emails too..each
time though its a "I've heard" or "there's a rumour that.."
I will most certainly be doing whatever I can to check it out (and have
had a couple of good leads to do just that) but if anyone has a
difinitive answer that is not just rumour, I'm sure the list would
appreciate it.
I will post whatever I find out.
Ken RV6A Flying (well, at least as far as Lauderdale maybe)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GWDFLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy covers and flight manual |
I'm very happy with the "Bruce's" cover I purchased for my RV3. It was about
$220 and worth every penny. It fits very well and is very rugged unlike many
of the covers I have seen. I wouod imagine he has pattern for the 6. His ad
is in many aviation publication. Gary Dalleske, Foster City CA.
gwdflyer(at)aol.net.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d shipman <innovate(at)dallas.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Hartzell Prop |
Hello everyone:
I have a question regarding the 1BF prop that Van sells. In the event
of a loss of oil pressure, which pitch will the prop feather into?
Maximum or Minimum drag. Is this the safety issue that Dave Barnhart is
refering to?
David "so many questions" Shipman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip Up Canopy Tip |
>
>Here's another tip up canopy tip learned the hard way.
>
(RV101-freshman class)-
-don't let the fiberglass tape slip up over the masking tape on the canopy
when building the fairing. Even leaving a little resin on the tape will
affix it permanently(I had concerns about scraping too much). I used the
expensive blue 3M tape to achieve a nice, undesired pin stripe! My finish
edge is now a bit higher than originally planned.
(other students discoveries)
-place your gyro near the hinge and you may discover clearance problems
because of it's depth.
-remember that the canopy hood overhangs the panel when locating the
emergency release handle.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
If you are a subscriber to Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing newsletter and
have moved, please send me your new address. I have had several January
issues returned with the forwarding addresses expired. Thanks.
Jim Cone, Editor
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BillAkin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass education needed |
Don:
If you can get your hands on an old varieze/longezie manual you will learn
just about every thing you need to know about hand layups of fiberglass. Burt
Rutan devotes a large section on how to lay up glass. If you've ever used one
of his building instruction manuals
you would scoff at the others.
Good Luck!
B.A. RV6A 85TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A fairings and towbar |
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
Greetings: Flying and enjoying RV6A N517RL. Interested in any
comments, suggestions or articles on the following:
1. construction and installation of fairings for wheel pant to leg
junction and leg to fuselage junction.
2. towbar, either design plans or commercially available. Can anyone
confirm that the towbar for the Gruman Tiger well fit? Backing the
plane into the hanger is a bear, particularily with uneven ground and
having to roll over the hanger door "sill."
Thanks for suggestions.
jepilot(at)juno.com
J. E. Rehler
Corpus Christi, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougb(at)mail.diac.com (Douglas Bloomberg) |
| Subject: | Visits from EAA tech consular |
Howdy,
Passing along some important info.
The from the latest EAA Tech Consular Bulletin:
Background info: Avemco Ins will extend to you a 10% discount AND insure
your bird from the first take off (normally insurance will not kick in until
the 11th hour of flight) IF you have had 3 visits by an EAA tech consular and
utilized the advice and mentoring of a EAA Flight Advisor.
Now the important stuff:
1) The tech consular cannot nor will not sign your logbook. YOU must note in
the log book, that Al Leron EAA Tech Consular chapter 43 visited my project
on Jan 25, 1997 and found (all was well; I don't know a shop head from a factory
head; or I am doing a great job but I need to xxx) (Pick one or make up
something)
Now here is the tough part as you don't have control of it. The tech
consular is
supposed to send to EAA Oshkosh a visit report. This report is kept
electronically
and paper(ly) the insurance company investigating an incident may (will)
check the EAA to see if they have records that you really had somebody come by
three (3) times during the building process. If the EAA does not have the
paperwork the insurance may (will) not be paid. (Of course that didn't
prevent them from taking your money in the first place)
So... Bottom line. Give the tech consular a No 10 envelope with stamp so
he/she will be highly inclinded to send the visit report to the big O.
Doug
ps You must also keep the FAA notified if while in the phase II flight
phase you change a major component (prop, exhaust, engine) this may
(will) require a new Phase I flight test for a to be determined time and
area. Certified aircraft have to have STC's of 337 forms for changes
if they have not filed a STC or 337 the plane is not considered airworthy.
Same thing with an experimental, you have to fly off the hours.
Now realistically the FAA folks list equipment on the sheets as RV-6,
Lycoming O-320-E2D, Experimental wood prop. So who is to say you
finally junked the Tolles exhaust and put on a Vetterman Exhaust. Or
changed to another brand wood prop.
Doug Bloomberg
RV-6A N399DB
Denver, CO
dougb(at)mail.diac.com (home)
dougb(at)denver.sgi.com (work)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: panel layout software |
<< I plan on using a CNC vertical milling center to cut all the holes out
in my panel, >>
This is not a flame but I can't help myself. This is pure envy. Your own CNC
machine--------
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
working on the canopy again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Chatter: Re: Canopy covers |
>Ken, I'm fairly happy with the cover that I bought from DJ Laurensten (sp).
>It fits the tip up well. The only problem that I've had is that in a
>strong, 90 degree wind, the cover has a tendency to slide off to the side.
>When this happens, the cover will rub a little on the plexy. I've been
>trying to think of a way to prevent this from happening but have not come up
>with a good solution yet. (Not that I intend to let my six set outside very
>often.)
Park facing into the wind? :-)
And in case the wind shifts, only put one wheel brake on, thus allowing the
aircraft to weathercock.
Frank :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JBALBIERER(at)NYSYR.ANG.AF.MIL |
| Subject: | RV6A fairings and towbar |
charset=US-ASCII
Tow bars for RV-6A can be purchased from Ken Barto, N6389 RV-6A, of
Syracuse, NY.
(315)622-2072, they work very well and are lightweight. I think the cost
is around $20-30.
-------------
Original Text
>From juno.com!jepilot(at)matronics.com (J E REHLER), on 1/23/97 23:13:
Greetings: Flying and enjoying RV6A N517RL. Interested in any
comments, suggestions or articles on the following:
1. construction and installation of fairings for wheel pant to leg
junction and leg to fuselage junction.
2. towbar, either design plans or commercially available. Can anyone
confirm that the towbar for the Gruman Tiger well fit? Backing the
plane into the hanger is a bear, particularily with uneven ground and
having to roll over the hanger door "sill."
Thanks for suggestions.
jepilot(at)juno.com
J. E. Rehler
Corpus Christi, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Long Range Fuel Tanks |
<< Additional parts needed are 18.2" extensions to the skins, 3 - additional
tank ribs for each side, 18.2" extensions to the web doubler for mounting
the
tank, and replacing the provided rear tank baffle with custom made baffles
cut to length.
In order to do this, you must build your own spar and include the 18.2 "
extension to the doubler in the construction. Also, you must drill a hole
>>
The Harmon Rocket II uses a simple extension of the fuel tank mount flange (
with more spreader bars installed behind), riveted to the existing spar. You
could probably call John @ 805-836-1028, and get him to bend up the longer
parts you will need- maybe even a 1-pc tank skin! I don't know if his brake
will bend such a long skin. I do know of a fella who modified his Rocket to
carry 60 gal. He could lead you to a competent shop. E-mail me off the list
for more info.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Advise Needed On Lycoming Primer Lines |
As I recall from my vintage motorcycle days, we heated up the copper fuel
line tube to a cherry read and then quenched it in water. This was to remove
the work hardening and you could repeat the process as needed. It was wound
like a spring, with the winding horizontal, to allow for the engine vibration.
Royce Craven
>
>Aluminum lines will work harden from the vibration and break even faster than
>the copper lines. Copper has been used for many years and works well as long
>as they are properly supported and have loops in them to allow for engine
>movement.
>
>Jim Cone
>jamescone(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tip Up Canopy Tip |
Another Tip: The Tip Up Canopy makes a good wind sail. I had just landed
and taxied to my hangar. I had left the chocks in the hangar so I left the
canopy up and went into the hangar to get them. I didn't have a parking
brake. When I came out of the hangar I found my RV had blown into a
Mercedes. Could have been a lot worse than it was. The only part of the RV
that touched the car was my beautiful Warnke prop. It put a small dent in
the car that my insurance took care of, but, my Warnke prop was now modified
by about 12 inches on one blade. My insurance didn't cover the prop. About
a $900 lesson. I carried my chocks with me from then on.
If the plane had not hit the car, it would have rolled into a hangar and
probably woulkd have taken out a wing. My next RV will have parking brakes,
even though I am going with the slider.
A note on the gas struts. Install them so that the rod attaches to the
fuselage. When you open the canopy, it will go up rapidly, but then it will
slow down at the very end. If you install it with the rod on the canopy, you
won't have this feature and the canopy tends to slam against the stop.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
----------
> From: Tony Partain <aviator(at)tseinc.com>
> To: dfried(at)dehavilland.ca
> Subject:
> Date: Thursday, January 23, 1997 8:41 PM
>
> David
> Has anybody tried this reflex setting on the flaps .And if so , what
where
> the results?Will this decrease the lift on climb out ? What will this do
to
> the stall speed?
> Please give me a call , I would like to talk to you or anybody else that
> has tried this. 800-774-0828 8am to 3pm cst .
>
> The need for more speed is evident.
>
> Tony Partain
> N17PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex.peterson(at)deltec.com |
>Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 8:31:01 CST-6
| Subject: | Conical Area of -6 Side Skins |
To form the flare from conical to cylindrical at the aft end of the F670
side skins, I built a fixture from a 4x4 block of wood. I first chiseled
and smoothed a conical nest into the block which matched the conical
shape bent into the skin. I then filed an additional amount from the
block corresponding to the flare needed. I layed the skin in the nest,
and carefully formed the flare into the skin, using a mallet. It probably
took less than an hour to make the block, and the same block can be used
for both sides. No notching is necessary in the skin.
From:
Alex Peterson
alex.peterson(at)deltec.com
Maple Grove, MN RV6A fuse skin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chatter: Re: Canopy covers |
>>It fits the tip up well. The only problem that I've had is that in a
>>strong, 90 degree wind, the cover has a tendency to slide off to the side.
>>When this happens, the cover will rub a little on the plexy. I've been
>>trying to think of a way to prevent this from happening but have not come up
>>with a good solution yet. (Not that I intend to let my six set outside very
>>often.)
>
>Park facing into the wind? :-)
>
>And in case the wind shifts, only put one wheel brake on, thus allowing the
>aircraft to weathercock.
>
>Frank :-)
Frank,
Hard to do when all the tie downs face east-west and there's a 40 knot
wind straight out of the north. And---no parking brake. Best plan: park
inside.
Speaking of parking brakes. On one occasion, when my Maule was tied down
outside, a major thunder storm came through. I did not put the brake on but
had the plane tied down and well chocked. The doors were locked. The kind
FBO, seeing the approaching storm, untied my airplane and moved it inside.
There were winds up to 50 mph and some light hail. Thunderstorms on the
plains can be fierce. Had the parking brakes been on, the FBO would not
have been able to move the plane.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy covers and flight manual |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers,
As of 1996, Experimental aircraft were allowed to enter the Bahamas
with special permission...... I don't know the current status. Below is
a summary of AOPA's 1996 flight planning guide to the Bahamas. If more
detail is needed, please contact AOPA for a complete package of material.
1. PASSPORT: Not required for US citizens holding PROOF of citizenship
such as a birth certificate, etc....
2. INSURANCE: Bahamian Government does not have specific insurance
requirements.
3. SURVIVAL GEAR: FAR 91.1(b) - Over water flights less than 50 miles
from land require flotation device for each person. Above 50 miles
requires life raft.
4. FLIGHT PLAN: REQUIRED to enter/cross ADIZ. File on the ground, as air
files will REQUIRE an intercept identification.
5. CUSTOMS: Not required to clear outbound from US, but AOPA recommends
doing so if are carrying expensive gear (Camera, SCUBA etc). There are
additional customs requirements for entry into the Bahamas and re-entry
into the US. Contact AOPA for additional information.
6. ARRIVAL REQUIREMENTS: Four copies of the Inward declaration/Crusing
Permit if you plan on Island hopping OR Three copies of the Aircraft
General declarations if you don't island hop, OR the Transire form.
Bahamas Immigration Disembarkation/Embarkation Card also required.
7. EXIT REQUIREMENTS: Must exit from airport of entry/exit. DVFR flight
plan required, ADCUS/ customs notification within 1 hour/15 minutes. Must
land at Airport of entry in US. File out Form CF178 for US customs.
8. IDENTIFICATION: Aircraft MUST have 12" high, 2" wide N numbers. These
can be temporary. MUST have Mode C Transponder. EXPERIMENTAL aircraft
from the US MUST obtain authorization from the Bahamian Department of
Civil Aviation (approx 3 wk process). Address is: Bahamas Aeronautical
Authorities, Dept of Civil Aviation, P.O. Box N-975, Nassau, N.P.,
Bahamas phone 809-377-7281 fax 809-377-2040.
9. AIRCRARFT/PILOT DOCUMENTATION:Aircraft registration Certificate (no
pink slips), airworthiness Certificate, RADIO STATION License, Aircraft
operating limitations, Weight & balance info, Permit to operate
EXPERIMENTAL aircraft in Bahamas, Airman Certificate, Current medical,
RADIOTELEPHONE Operator Permit.
This list is by no means complete. Be sure to bone up on the Customs
requirements as fines can EXCEED $5,000.00!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
magic.ca!J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)matronics.com (J.Ken Hitchmough) writes:
>Hitchmough)
>
>
>Terry Mortimore wrote:
> unfortunately Ihave been told that the Bahama's government has
restricted homebuilt
>aircraft from entering their airspace, you should check it out to avoid
>being disappointed.
>
>Terry, you're not the first one to have said that since I posted I was
>planning a trip there. I've had a couple of private emails too..each
>time though its a "I've heard" or "there's a rumour that.."
>
>I will most certainly be doing whatever I can to check it out (and have
>had a couple of good leads to do just that) but if anyone has a
>difinitive answer that is not just rumour, I'm sure the list would
>appreciate it.
>
>I will post whatever I find out.
>
>Ken RV6A Flying (well, at least as far as Lauderdale maybe)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6A fairings and towbar |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
J. E.,
1. I constructed the gear leg to fuselage fairings by doing the
following: Cover all surfaces with a fiberglass resist coating, then form
the desired shape with modeling clay. Lay in 3-4 layers of light glass &
resin. While the resin is still green, slice the trailing edge. remove
after the resin hardens, clean up and paint. With the painted/finished
part in place, drill #30 pilot holes where the screws will be located.
Remove part and install #6 Rib nuts in the wing/fuselage.
2. Cessna 182 tow bars work great on the -6A. Ken Bartow at Oswego
airport (NY, N00) also makes/sells RV-6A tow bars.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
REHLER) writes:
>Greetings: Flying and enjoying RV6A N517RL. Interested in any
>comments, suggestions or articles on the following:
>1. construction and installation of fairings for wheel pant to leg
>junction and leg to fuselage junction. 2. towbar, either design
>plans or commercially available. Can anyone confirm that the towbar
>for the Gruman Tiger well fit? Backing the
>plane into the hanger is a bear, particularily with uneven ground and
>having to roll over the hanger door "sill."
>
>Thanks for suggestions.
>
>jepilot(at)juno.com
>J. E. Rehler Corpus Christi, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
How long does a flight need to be in order to take advantage of great circle
navigation? How does one go about plotting a great circle course? How much
mileage variance is there for a given flight distance?
Ed Bundy RV6A #23834 N427EM - flying
Eagle, ID
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hobby Stevens <rayco(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass education needed |
If anybody is interested, I still have all the construction manuals from
a Rutan VariEze that I started about 15? years ago (and quit working on
when I developed a bad epoxy allergy). If you will email me direct, I
will scan in the pertinent pages of the manual regarding mixing ratios
for various epoxies, how to lay up fiberglass, characteristisc of
bi-directional versus uni-directional glass, stippling, etc. and send
them to you directly.
Hobby Stevens
RV-6Q on order (should be here in Texas next week)
N41HS (reserved)
ASMEL,Comm, Instrument
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Visits from EAA tech consular |
>
>Howdy,
>
>Passing along some important info.
>
>The from the latest EAA Tech Consular Bulletin:
^^^^^^^^
Diplomatic skills are needed to become an EAA Technical Counselor ..:^)
>
>*** snip ***
>Now here is the tough part as you don't have control of it. The tech
>consular is
>supposed to send to EAA Oshkosh a visit report. This report is kept
>electronically
>and paper(ly) the insurance company investigating an incident may (will)
>check the EAA to see if they have records that you really had somebody come by
>three (3) times during the building process. If the EAA does not have the
>paperwork the insurance may (will) not be paid. (Of course that didn't
>prevent them from taking your money in the first place)
>
>So... Bottom line. Give the tech consular a No 10 envelope with stamp so
>he/she will be highly inclinded to send the visit report to the big O.
Doug,
... talk to your Technical Counselor carefully next time!! This is a totally
incorrect bottom line.
This is absolutely NOT needed!
The EAA Technical Counselor Report is a two part carbonless form. The top
flimsy sheet is torn off and kept by the TC as his permanent record, while the
thick card lower portion is actually a Reply Paid postcard to the EAA Aviation
Center.
The TC does not need any envelopes or stamps to send in your report!
The EAA recommended verbage for your logbook is as follows:
"I, Joe E. Builder, had EAA Technical Counselor #3661, G. W. Alexander, visit my
project on 3-14-96 and found it airworthy, signed Joe E. Builder."
Personally, if I conduct an inspection, and if I find multiple small items,
I document them an a minor discrepancy list, and just reference this list, instead
of noting them on the form, which only has 4 short lines.
I've found tail mounting bolts without nuts, missing safety wire, chafing cables,
etc. Get that extra set of eyes looking at your project! This, coupled
with the EAA Flight Advisor Program, is why the insurance discount is given.
January 15, 1997 - January 24, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-cj