RV-Archive.digest.vol-cl
January 30, 1997 - February 10, 1997
automatically get the latest software.
They tout their fast processor speed compared to other units. From what
I've read the Garmin 195, Lowrance, and others can be very slow to redraw
screens, for example when zooming in/out or changing heading. Turning a
corner in my car this thing turns right along with me almost instantly.
I'm thinking I may just use this GPS, which has a HSI on one screen, and
forget about getting a DG. You can get a tray to mount it flush in your
panel, and it just unplugs from the rack for portable use.
My only gripes are minor. The airport database does not include ATIS or
AWOS freq's, obstructions/hazards, fuel. Airport names don't include
States (if you want to go to Lancaster, WI you will find 5 Lancasters,
identified only by ID code and lat/long). The only roads shown on the map
are Interstates (not a big deal to me but other units have more ground
detail). They told me future database updates will add most of the above
stuff.
They also have a color (or "colour" as they say over there) screen
version that costs about $5,000.
More info is at their web site:
http://www.skyforce.co.uk
If you or anyone else have any questions about it, feel free to call me.
Bob Reiff
Phone 414-968-2342
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | chatter; what's a mil |
I don't know if this is really true or not, but a mechanical engineer
friend of mine always likes to tell this story of a conversation which
took place during an interview with a candidate for a mechanical
engineering position.
The candidate was asked several technical questions to check his basic
knowledge, one of which was "How many thousanths are there in an inch?"
The candidates answer: "Geez, I don't really know, but there must be a
million of 'em!"
He didn't get the job...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl cheek hinges |
Leo,
what is this all about? Where are you not putting the hinge?
Royce
roycec(at)ozemail.com.au
>
>Ken,
>
>I have seen several flying RVs and one fuselage built by Art Chard in which
>this short piece of hinge has been replaced with an aluminium plate with
>plate nuts and screws. Makes me think this has happened before.
>
>Leo Davies (planning to use plate nuts and structural screws)
>
>
>>
>>After 185 hrs I noticed that the left cowl cheek hinge has broken and will
>>have to be replaced. This is the short MS20001 extruded hinge behind the
>>prop spinner.
>>
>>Has anyone tried strengthening this area and using cam-lock fasteners. I
>>would be interested in a good alternative. This is a lot of stress here
>>and strength is important.
>>
>>Bill B. comments appreciated.
>>
>>
>>Ken ve7fp(at)jetstream.net
>>Beautiful British Columbia
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble |
Fellow RVers,
What a timely discussion. We are preparing to drill the gear legs on the
Glastar. (Fortunately, I won't have to do this on my next RV-6) The Glastar
legs are similar to those of an RV. We're going to ream the 5/15" bolt
holes. Actually, the 5/16" bolts measure .310 inches instead of .3125, a
difference of .0025".
I didn't ream the bolt holes on my RV-6 gear legs. However, I did ream
the rear spar attach and the forward fuel tank/fuselage attach and was very
pleased with the good fit. I had never worked with reamers before and
didn't realize what a "quality hole" could be made with a reamer. A good
fit could be the difference between a solid installation and one that will
develop the wobbles.
So, I have a couple of questions for the machinists in the group. First,
will an adjustable reamer work on the really hard gear legs and sockets? It
seems like a "custom fit" could be obtained by using these. If the
adjustable reamers are too light duty, we'll go with the straight reamer.
What is the recommendation for reamer size? For instance, if I want to ream
for a 5/16" bolt (.310"), what size reamer should I use? Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Press no Bargain |
> Just a response to Bill's sad note. I have the very same drill
>press and have had no problems whatsoever, certainly none of the
>glitches that Bill had. I have their belt/disc sander as well -
>running fine.
This drill press is the *only* asian manufacture power tool I *have not*
returned to Harbor Freight. It works and works well...unlike the bench
grinder...the band saw...etc.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q Project:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
(last updated 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 photos)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d shipman <innovate(at)dallas.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tape on stiffeners |
Thanks Mike for the info regarding the Sonerai.
I didn't intend on starting rumors here regarding aluminum bonding, just
dreaming of new technology.
David Shipman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kightdm(at)carol.net (Danny Kight) |
| Subject: | Re: Tape on a Sonerai? |
><< This is very interesting TESTING that Dann is doing. Unfortunately,
> I understand that testing in the past (Sonerai?) was not successful.
>
>Does anybody know anything concrete about Sonerai bonding failures (what
>adhesive was used, prep etc.). I would hate to see a usefull inovation shot
>down on heresay.No flame intended.
As a current Sonerai builder and pilot, I had to jump in on this- I have
never heard of structural adhesives being used on a Sonerai. The fuselage
is tube and fabric with a fiberglass cowling. The wings are all aluminum,
and skins are riveted on (blind rivets are called out on the plans, but
driven rivets can be used too.) The ailerons are full span with a narrow
chord- no stiffeners are used.
There...now that I have defended the honor of my trusty mount, I must say
that the 3M tape does sound like a good idea for certain applications. I
have already finished all the control surfaces on my RV-6, or I would be
tempted to try it too!
Danny Kight kightdm(at)carol.net
Sonerai IILT N622DK "Miss Mary" 265 happy hours
RV-6 working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Tape-on stiffeners |
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dann Parks
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 1997 11:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tape-on stiffeners
A few months ago there was a discussion about using 3M structural adhesive
tape in RV construction. The adhesive is 3M VHB (Very High Bond) industrial
double-sided foam tape.
Dann,
Thanks for a most informative post. As someone else said previously, this is
the kind of stuff that helps make the list enjoyable to everyone.
Experimenting as you are with stiffeners only seems appropriately
conservative. I think you made a good choice. I would, and hopefully others on
the list might find your answers to the following helpful:
1) Is the installation temperature or humidity dependent? If so what is the
low/high range? Under what sort of conditions did you install the product?
2) What is the cleaning process you mentioned?
3) Is there a solvent that can be used to remove the tape if there is a
malpositioning?
4) What is the cost of the product?
5) Does the product have a shelf life?
6) Is 3M aware of your application? Would you say they sanction/approve it?
You know some companies will not stand behind their product in aircraft
applications. I'm curious to know what their position is on your use of their
product in the RV.
7) Are you planning on continuing with your experimentaion of this product? As
you haven't begun your elevators yet, are you maybe considering riveting the
stiffeners on one side and taping the other? Or alternatively riveting say the
bottom stiffeners and taping the top ones?
Paul Osterman III
RV6A Riveting leading edge skin(left)
Anderson, CA
PineRanch(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Joe,
Since its kinda RV related. I have seen people with experimental A/C using a
C85 or 0200, Install an oil filter adapter on the back of the accessory case
or a remote oil filter adapter. They then roll a piece of aluminum to enclose
the filter about 3/4's of the way around it, and install a flange to connect
a piece of scat tube to. You can route air from your rear baffle dirrectly
over the oil filter. A freind with a Q200 claims a 15 to 20 deg difference in
temp. Mabe this will help some.
Ryan RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Does the jig ever warp? |
at last, an area of discussion that I can claim some expertise(as opposed to
primers, liabilities, and the tax laws of NY!). I would suggest looking
under "used lumber" in the yellow pages. In St. Louis when I couldn't
afford the new stuff I built with 100+ yr old floor joists that had been
ripped down to 2x4 size. They had nail holes and the finish was rough, but
the tight-ringed old-growth was incredibly stabile. One could witness this
when removing roof rafters which had bent under the load of too many roofs,
they remained crooked. Even finding something 10 yrs. old would be more
stabile than new. What we see in our local lumberyard is typically second
and third growth, cut from small 40-60 yr old logs(more oftenly referred to
lately as "crap"). It is the fast growing center of the tree that makes a
board warp and twist as it's moisture content changes. Too bad you don't
live close by, I just threw out a bunch of 1927 2x4 studs from my current
job. Instead of a drop box maybe I should send them to Van's to include
with the kits ;-) Kevin, Distinctive Decks & Designs, Portland
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Introduction&communication |
Hello all...
I've been a lurker for 3 months now and I've finally got a need to use
the list.
I've been working on an RV-4 for 10 years, serial #773. The tail and
wings are done and the fuselage is about 1/3 finished. I was side
tracked on several occasions, one being a Cessna 180 for the last 8
years. The 180 is a great plane and like the RV does everything well,
but situations forced the sale of my pride and joy :,( So I dusted off
the RV-4 and have started again :,) I wish that this list had been
avaliable back when I started....I'd probably be flying an RV-4 long
before now...the amount of information and past experience that is
available on this list is impressive and the daily postings keep the
incentive and enthusiasm alive.
Now for the two reasons I'm writing to the list ......
1. I have a fuselage jig for an RV-4 looking for a good home. It is kind
and good natured and has no splinters. It will fit in the back of a full
size truck with ease and the cross pieces are fully adjustable. It
knocks down into 4 major pieces that bolt together and it's house
broken.
2. I will be in the Phoenix-Scottsdale area the week of Feb. 3rd to the
7th and would like to see some examples of internal layouts and finish
work on interiors, seating geometrys, etc. These can be in either
construction or finished projects....hell, any stage of construction I'd
like to see. It's fun to exchange ideas and view peoples
acclomplishments. I'll only be available after 5pm because of classes I
have to attend for work. (I know...my priorities are all messed up):,)
For either item, contact me at le_schrader@net-serve.net or
Larry Schrader(at)jpl.nasa.gov
Larry Schrader
28978 Hayward Ct.
Barstow, Ca. 92311
619-256-8002
RV-4 #773
160 hp
3 blade Performance Prop
still squashing rivits!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall assembly question |
> And Frank is absolutely right. There is a bracket for the rudders that
> gets
> riveted to one of the two center vertical stiffener angles. This bracket
> MUST be riveted on prior to riveting the firewall recess.
UNLESS you get sneaky and use pop rivets to attach this piece, which I had to
do as a result of not following Frank's directions to the letter. Point is,
it can be done either way.
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
I just fit up the air box tonight on a -6A with a Vans 0-360 A1A. First
glance, it didn't want to go, but by trimming to top of the air box a little,
it cleared the plate on the carb, with some twisting. Bottom of the box
looks like it will clear the l.g. strut by about 3/4 inch.
My question on this thing is:
When you mount the air box top plate into the fiberglass air box, the filter
should stick up above the top plate by some small amount. Then there is some
"crush" on the filter when the box is bolted to the mount plate on carb.
The filter is 2 1/2" thick (deep?), therefore I figure to make the top of
the top plate about 2 7/16" above the bottom of the air box. This gives
about a 1/16 crush.
If this isn't enough crush, I can always do a small micro buildup on the
bottom of the airbox.
Any opinions
Bruce Patton
Air boxing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Becker Com Radio |
Beckers tend to be used on gliders, and are excellent very low drain, very
expensive 3 1/8" hole radios. I put a Terra in my glider last year, but the
place I got the Terra at is a glider shop and stocks Beckers
Wings and Wheels
81 Jackson Ave W.E.
Jamestown, N.Y. 14701.
Tim Mara, a geat guy runs it, give him a call. He also stocks used radios,
and mignt have a good price.
(Sorry, his phone number is not on the bill I am looking at)
Bruce Patton
Doing the Air Box
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Kane <dennis(at)robot.asimov.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce SkyMap II |
Any Idea of the cost of the Skyforce ?
Respectfully,
Dennis Kane
STRAYlight Aviation Ephemera
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Does the jig ever warp? |
but I am not aware of anyone who has actually had a problem
>with a fuselage jig warping.
>
John, for what it's worth, they do warp. I had drilled holes for my fire
wall, had about a month time off the job. When I started back, the holes
did not line up! I got to checking and found that the firewall was tilted a
little. My fus. jig was wood, 2x6 and 2x4 of the best yellow pine I could
find. All I can figure is that with original work of tweaking it being done
when there was a wet spell here in TX (very unusual), that the wood
diagonals shrunk when it got back to normal dryness, there fore pulling in
the fire wall braces and tilting the thing. A little tweaking and I got it
back to where it should be and the holes lined up. Some one was smiling on
me, cause I could have drilled the holes when it was tilted. My 4x4 treated
lumber for my wing jig warped until it would make a sailor sea sick. I
tweaked it almost every day until they stopped warping ( a rotational twist
from end to end that left the wood like a screw that had a very steep thread).
Morale of the story--- don't care how level and straight it starts out,
check it often as Vans construction manual says you should. I guess for the
very exact inclined people, the coefficiency of linear expansion of metal
jigs may require that they be checked often as well? :-)
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keeping warm . . . |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers,
I've flown my -6A in temps as low as -10*F with plenty of cabin heat
just using the stock exhaust muff that Van's recommends. The key to good
cabin heat is making sure you don't have any cabin air leaks. A good
tight firewall is a must, not only as a protection form CO2, but cold
drafts as well. The canopy must be tightly sealed. Many times leaks here
cause the air to be sucked in from other leaky areas. Aileron push rod
boots, as well as flap extender rod boots, are also a must. Insulating
the cabin side walls with .25" flame retardant foam also make a big heat
difference, as well as helping in sound attenuation. None of these ideas
adds significant weight, and all are easily performed as you construct
your aircraft. Thinking about them now will make your flying a lot warmer
later........
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Keeping warm . . .
>
>> Based upon this thread, are you fellas telling me that the RV's have a
>> problem with heating the cabin? Doesn't the heat muff provide
enough?
>
>Jim, I don't think the RV has a heat problem, but then I've flown it in
>temps. down to only about 25F. At that on a sunny day, it was still
>comfortable except for my feet, but my feet are cold all of the time
>anyway. The only time I've had the cabin heat on was to see if it
>would
>operate, it did.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robbins Mitch <ROBBINM(at)chi.ntsb.gov> |
| Subject: | Keeping warm . . . |
I had the pleasure of doing my RV-4 test flights in Phoenix in the summer
and worked very hard to insure good interior ventilation at balmy
temperatures of 110F plus. A few years later, I moved to Michigan and
rapidly discovered how well ventilated the airplane was! Thorough
weather-stripping and sealing those nuisance air leaks was a necessity
(this also drastically reduced the interior noise levels). I've flown
"comfortably" at ambient temperatures as low as -20F with the standard
aluminum ACS/Van's heat muff. I guess my point is, a generic heat muff
is sufficient, but only if leaks in the cockpit are limited.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
An article by Dean Hall appeared in the May 1994 issue of Sport Aviation
about his extraordinary RV-4, N92DH. Among the many good ideas he detailed
in this article was a vacuum system that uses a 2" venturi and engine
manifold vacuum; switching between the two automatically to the best
source. This allows a redundant system with no vacuum pump.
I would like to use the system on my RV-6, but am unable to locate the
supplier cited in the article. Mr. Hall said he purchased the A&I
products, automatic switching system from Aircraft Spruce. I cannot locate
the system in the current ACS catalogue and I cannot locate A&I products.
Does anyone know if this company still exists and where they are if they do?
Larry Pardue n5lp(at)carlsbad.net
Pacer N8025D
RV-6 N49LP tail kit on way QB to follow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robbins Mitch <ROBBINM(at)chi.ntsb.gov> |
| Subject: | Does the jig ever warp? |
The reason that wood "warps" is because of changing moisture content due
to ambient humidity, or maybe spilled beer. The best wood will warp even
after it's carefully dried. I've been high on the learning curve lately
finishing my IAC One-Design wing with an 18', five laminate, tapered
spar. It "moves" daily, even with temperature and rudimentary humidity
control in my shop.
The key is reasonably try to limit temperature and humidity changes.
This is not always practical. Set up your jigs so you can occasionally
"tweak" them at critical stages of the assembly. It doesn't matter if
the jig moves slightly, as long as the jigged parts are where they need
to be when you drill, rivet, etc.
Mitch Robbins
RV-4 N13MR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | newsletter subscription for 97 |
Jim,
I subscribed to the Tri-State Wing Newsletter for 96 and have not been
disappointed. You do a great job. Lots of good info, and a good read too.
Is $US 8.00 still a good amount to send for postage to Canada?
Good luck on your test flights.
Kevin Horton
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
140 Delaney Dr.
Carp, ON
K0A 1L0
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Everyone read this! |
Hello RV-Listers,
It's that time of year again and all the "old hands" on the list know =
that we like to take up a collection once a year for Matt Dralle who has =
been running this list for a long time out of his own pocket. Now to the =
best of my knowledge last year we took up the first "I wanna pay my fair =
share" collection. We simply ask that people send Matt a contribution =
that represents a percentage of the value that they feel they get from =
the list. I know I subscribe to a number of aviation publications and I =
can only say that the pictures are better but the information from the =
list is by far more valuable to me. I sent Matt $10 last year and I =
believe it to be the best value of all the publications I receive. I =
will only suggest that donations start at $5. (And please keep them =
below $10,000 as Matt doesn't need tax problems! Also no checks from =
Indonesian Banks.) I asked Matt to please keep this voluntary as I know =
I am already paying enough to the Gov.t for things I don't even need. =
(Like commissions to recommend closing airports!) I am sure Matt has =
new ideas for the list if he can only finance them....How bout it Matt? =
Well this appeal has gone on long enough I just want to add that last =
year Matt thanked those who gave -by name- on the list so please if you =
can spare it...............
Al Mojzisik prober(at)iwaynet.net =
Columbus, Ohio
RV-6 N162NV =
(Res.)
(Matt is the below address still good?)
Send your share to: Matt G. Dralle
RV-List=20
PO Box 347
Livermore, Ca. 94551
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
>2. I will be in the Phoenix-Scottsdale area the week of Feb. 3rd to the
>7th and would like to see some examples of internal layouts and finish
>work on interiors, seating geometrys, etc. These can be in either
>construction or finished projects....hell, any stage of construction I'd
>like to see. It's fun to exchange ideas and view peoples
>acclomplishments. I'll only be available after 5pm because of classes I
>have to attend for work. (I know...my priorities are all messed up):,)
>
>For either item, contact me at le_schrader@net-serve.net or
>Larry Schrader(at)jpl.nasa.gov
>
>Larry Schrader
>28978 Hayward Ct.
>Barstow, Ca. 92311
>619-256-8002
>RV-4 #773
>160 hp
>3 blade Performance Prop
>still squashing rivits!!!
>
>
*** sent privately ***
Larry,
... there is a beautiful example of a RV4 being test flown at
Camarillo at this time. It was built locally in Gardena, and I can give
you the number of the builder/owner/flyer if you are able to get out to
Camarillo.
This one was built so cleanly, he could have polished it - but it
has a really nice paint job on it .... The inside is unprimed and
scratch-free.
... Gil (I fly my glider at Crystal :^) Alexander
-------------------------------------------------------
gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tape-on stiffeners / What's mil |
>
>Question: What's a mil?
>Answer: Yer gonna love this.
>
>Wot a language! obfuscations abound. ; )
>
Also if you are talking to a good artilleryman a mil is 1/6400 of a circle
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction&communication |
Hi Larry,
Welcome to the list. I'm interested in your fuse jig. I'm probably 6 - 9
months from fuselage construction right now , but hate to miss out on an
opportunity.
I assume your jig is all wood. Are you the first user of the jig? What
would you like to get for it?
I will be out of town on business for the next couple of weeks, so if I
dont respond to your response dont assume a lack of interest on my part.
Mike Wills (in San Diego)
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
619-553-3789
>1. I have a fuselage jig for an RV-4 looking for a good home. It is kind
>and good natured and has no splinters. It will fit in the back of a full
>size truck with ease and the cross pieces are fully adjustable. It
>knocks down into 4 major pieces that bolt together and it's house
>broken.
>
>Larry Schrader
>28978 Hayward Ct.
>Barstow, Ca. 92311
>619-256-8002
>RV-4 #773
>160 hp
>3 blade Performance Prop
>still squashing rivits!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce SkyMap II |
Dennis Kane wrote:
>
>
> Any Idea of the cost of the Skyforce ?
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Dennis Kane
> STRAYlight Aviation Ephemera
>
Dennis,
There are 5 or 6 dealers. Some sell it for list ($1699), but Aircraft
Spruce & Specialty sells it for $1599.
Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
I got my engine from Don George. He runs an add in Sport Aviation and Kit
Planes. He is good to work with, stands behind his work, and is very helpful
with questions and assistance. Tell him that I recommended him.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble |
I used two bolts (off-set 90 degrees) about 4 inches apart figuring that if
one bolt is good, two are better. On the down side, I had to drill those
$#%& legs twice.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall assembly question |
> > There is a bracket for the rudders that
> > gets
> > riveted to one of the two center vertical stiffener angles. This bracket
> > MUST be riveted on prior to riveting the firewall recess.
>
> UNLESS you get sneaky and use pop rivets to attach this piece, which I had to
> do as a result of not following Frank's directions to the letter. Point is,
> it can be done either way.
Huhh...?! I installed the recess when I built the firewall, then
later on riveted the bracket through the angle and the recess with
solid rivets. I did have to put a small shim between the recess and
the angle, but that was a no-brainer.
Too bad I didn't know I can't do this.... :-)
But I agree, it would be better to leave the recess out till later for
better access.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks) |
| Subject: | Re: Tape-on stiffeners |
Thanks for the interest. I will try to fill in a few more details. First let
me make it clear that I am not taping on the wings with this stuff. The only
application I felt comfortable with is the stiffeners. The RV is an EXCELLENT
design as it is. I saw a place that had a few (very few) documented problems
and worked out an alternative that could eliminate those problems, add a few
advantages and was certainly easier to build. I DO think the material could
be used in other places in the RV (like maybe the fuselage bottom where
vibration from exhaust might cause cracks around rivets -- the tape has great
dampening ability), but I have no other plans for it at this point. I cannot
recommend this procedure (are you lawyers listening?), but I would recommend
that folks get a sample of this amazing stuff, play around with it and make
your own decisions. You may find lots of non-RV uses for it.
>A few questions:
>1. At one point you say the tape is 25 mil thick... what's a mil? Obviously
>not a mm!
25 Mil is .025 in. thick. 3M makes a 45 Mil version of the tape which
conforms to irregular shapes better, but seemed unnecessary and heavier.
>2. Is there any flexing/movement between the stiffener and the skin? I guess
>the amount of this depends on the tape's thickness and stiffness.
The tape isn't really thick enough to compress and cause flexing. There is
far, far more flex in the surface caused by the stiffeners bending when you
press on them.
>3. The tape is 1/2" wide, which with a 5/8" flange leaves 1/16" each side
>unglued. I assume there's no problem here?
The flange is 5/8", but 1/8" of that is taken by the bend. There is actually
only 1/2" that is flat to the surface and that part is taped.
>4. I s this a contact adhesive? ie how much room do you have to manoeuvre
>(sp?) once you start sticking it down?
The adhesive is very aggressive. If you touch it down wrong, you can yank on
it quickly and it will release. Once pressed down, it's permanent. It takes 3
days to reach maximum adhesion.
Let me add a few more details:
The cost for a 70 yrd. roll is $65. It would do 2-3 planes worth of control
surfaces.
I believe it weighs slightly more than rivets, but it's just a matter of a
few oz. If someone wants to work it out, the foam is 50 lbs/cubic foot.
Remember it's .025" thick.
A rivet at each end on the stiffener seemed to defeat the purpose. A blob of
RTV at the trailing end (as per plans) is insurance at that end. Because the
adhesive goes to within 1/8" of the spar, there are negligible peal forces at
that end.
Thanks again for the interest. I'd be glad to answer any other questions here
on the list or in private.
Dann Parks
Sunnyvale, CA
dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 wing spar/fuse bulkhead RESOLUTION |
I can't explain exactly why this works but here goes....
I was unable to align my F404 bulkhead parts to my wing spars. The holes d=
idn't line up properly. Since the splice plates DID line up with the spar,=
I tried assembling the splice plates to the bulkhead parts. This worked. =
So, I then tried to attach this "assembly" to the spars.
After some hemming and hawing and tapping with a rubber mallet, if all fit.=
This is GREAT!=20
Unfortunately, Phlogiston says they are totaled due to the shipping damage=
, as is the nice crate they came in. =20
This weekend, I'm going to try and fit the original set. The serial number=
s don't match on all the=20
parts but it's worth a shot.=20
John ( Much happier in N.H. )
p.s. let's try and keep this to ourselves ok? I'd be really embarrassed if=
a lot of people heard about it<1/2g>=20
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
<< I always thought that a bolt should extend beyond the nut by an amount at
least
equal to the bolt diameter. Is this right or excessive?
(Snip)
Hal Kempthorne halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. (SJC)
Debonair N6134V RV-6AQ on order!
>>
Hi All,
FWIW, I have always heard the the maximum strength of a bolt is acheived with
three, or more, threads protruding through the nut.
However, the aerospace companies I've worked at typically have a quality
inspection requirement for one to one and a half threads extending through
the nut.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A Ivoprop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Does the jig ever warp? |
<< at last, an area of discussion that I can claim some expertise(as opposed
to
primers, liabilities, and the tax laws of NY!). I would suggest looking
under "used lumber" in the yellow pages. In St. Louis when I couldn't
afford the new stuff I built with 100+ yr old floor joists that had been
ripped down to 2x4 size. >>
Along that same line, I lucked out when my neighbor put an addition on his
house and i scrounged his used roof rafters. The wood had been aging as his
roof for about ten years--very stable at this time. I would suggest the the
jig builder find a contracter that deals in home improvments and he will be
glad to allow you to hawl off his junk wood( your treasure). Jigs don't have
to be pretty. you don't fly the jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Maynard, Bryon" <maynardb(at)snowmass.ksc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Looking for Builders or Builders Group |
I am moving to the New Orleans area next month, with my half built
airplane, "I told the wife she could come along if she wanted to" .Is
there anyone on this list that lives in the New Orleans area that is
building an RV?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
Re. extending a bolt beyond the nut by one-bolt-diameter.
I suppose it can't hurt, but what good does it do? Are you expecting the nut
come loose and you want the extra threads to catch it?
In my earlier discussion of bolting I remarked as to practices during assembly
of nuclear reactors. It was during an engineering project regarding bolting up
reactors that I did the research on this. Not bragging, just trying to give
some creedence to my sources of info.
I was very (extremely?) surprised to discover that more than 90% of the tension
i.e., compression of the plates being bolted together was achieved by the first
three threads. That is to say, cut the nut thickness down to three threads and
you've got darn near full strength. That's why those extra thin nuts work.
HOWEVER. The three-thread bolt-up had better be under perfect conditions and
constantly maintained. The extra threads give you safety margin for less than
perfect tightening technique, less than perfect threads, less than perfect
materials, and less than perfect maintenance.
Also, as to reaming the bolt holes. Sure, go ahead, can't hurt. But clearance
is clearance. Now, if your planning on using dowel locators to prevent lateral
shift of the plates, reaming is vital. But remember, a bolt is a clamping
mechanism, not a substitute for a dowel pin.
Bob Fritz
working on the workshop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks) |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling Skins with Plastic Coating |
Hi Rick,
You're right, a rubber faced hammer doesn't have the punch. I keep the
plastic on, use Cleaveland dimple dies, a Sears 2lb metal faced dead blow
hammer and the large flush swivel rivet set from Avery's. This has produced
great results. Other builders have commented on how flat the skin is between
rivets (HS and VS only so far). The dies are excellent, but I really
attribute the flatness to the rivet set which is large and very flat. It
seams to flatten the area around the rivet very well. You do have to be
careful in removing the plastic after dimpling as sometimes little bits will
remain squashed into the dimple. I remove ALL the plastic for final riveting
and pack the finished piece in bubble wrap for it's long hibernation before
it becomes an airplane. After much reading of advice here on the list, this
is the combination of tools and technique I choose, and would recommend it to
others.
Dann Parks
Sunnyvale, CA
dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org
yes, the guy with the tape. I use rivets too... ;^)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Dixon <sdixon(at)laker.net> |
| Subject: | Flying to the Bahamas |
About a week ago the question was brought up concerning flying to the
Bahamas. Someone had mentioned that they had heard that Experimental /
Homebuilt aircraft were not allowed in Bahamian airspace.=20
Well I went to Freeport, Grand Bahama and asked the guys in the tower,
and they said that they have never heard of any restrictions on
Experimental / Homebuilt aircraft. They said that they occasionally have
homebuilts cone through and there were no problems.
So for those of you that are planning a little side trip before or after
Sun-n-Fun,=20
"NO PROBLEM, MON".
If you are going to be in the Ft. Lauderdale area, drop me a note, I=92d
love to see your RV.
Steve Dixon
sdixon(at)laker.net
RV 8 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
Bruce, I attached the brace to the top by using a piece of .060 scrap bent
at what ever angle needed. I riveted this piece to the brace and used AN3
bolts (2 ea.) to attach to the cross member. Did the same on the bottom.
Nice and rigid using this method.
Dave D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble |
> A good
>fit could be the difference between a solid installation and one that will
>develop the wobbles.
Bob:
Bill can tell you how not to do it. The work that was done on Bob Slagles
Star was a disaster. I finally had to walk away. Whatever you decide to do
be sure and set it up solidly in v-blocks on a good drill press. They tried
to do it in Ottumwa with 2-3 guys holding the gear leg "eyeball" level. It
did not work to say the least.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
| Subject: | Alternative Engines |
I don't know about anyone else but I very much miss the postings about the
OMAB engine projext. I am unable (because of my net acess provider) to log
on to rec.aviation. If you could let me know another way to get information
I would certainly appreciate it.
Nancy & Ray Murphy, Jr.
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV-6A empennage
North Bend, Oregon
541-756-7230
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Everyone Read This! |
>--------------
>RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
>
>Hello RV-Listers,
>
>It's that time of year again and all the "old hands" on the list know
>that we like to take up a collection once a year for Matt Dralle who has
>been running this list for a long time out of his own pocket. Now to the
>best of my knowledge last year we took up the first "I wanna pay my fair
>share" collection. We simply ask that people send Matt a contribution
>that represents a percentage of the value that they feel they get from
>the list...
>
>
>
>Al Mojzisik prober(at)iwaynet.net
>Columbus, Ohio
>-6 N162NV
>--------------
Dear RV-Listers -
I would like to thank Al Mojzisik for suggesting a 97' RV-List fund raiser.
Running the RV-List takes a significant amount of time and of course a fair
amount financial resources for equipment and connectivity costs. Last year's
support was directly responsible for a new high performance harddrive and
additional memory on the computer system that processes the huge amount of
RV-List mail each month. There was even a small amount left over to partially
offset some of the Internet connectivity costs involved with the List.
I want to stress that the RV-List and the RV-List Web page are provided to
builders around the world completely free of charge and will remain this way
as long as I manage the List. I started the RV-List over 7 years ago to
allow fellow builders to share information and building tips. The RV-List
has grown steadily since then and is now over 700 members strong!
As the List has grown in size and volume, I have continued to try to improved
the reliability and performance as well as add new and exciting features such
as the RV-List Web page. Managing the List is a labor of love and I hope that
it shows in the quality of service.
To keep the List running smoothly as it continues to grow at a near exponential
rate, I have been thinking of implimenting some upgrades including the
replacment of the lowely SUN Sparc 1+ CPU with a faster unit as well as
adding a backup tape drive to protect the many hours of custom software I
have written to manage the List as well as backup the List itself and the
megabytes of data that make up the archive file. I have also been looking
at upgrading the List's Internet connectivty from the current UUCP connection
to a fulltime, dedicated connection. This would greatly enhance the operation
of the List, but would also represent a rather sizeable increase in the
monthly operating cost.
Again, I want to stress that contributions to the support of the RV-List are
on a completely voluntary basis and will *always* remain that way. However,
if you find the RV-List and the RV-List Web page useful, a contribute in any
amount that is confortable for you will go along way in supporting and
improving this popular RV resource.
Last year, contributions ranged from $5 to $100 with many in the $10, $20, and
$50 amounts. Please contribute whatever you feel is apropriate for you. Any
amount will be most appreciated! Unless otherwise requested, I will post a
summary in a month or so including the name of each person that generously
made a contribution.
Contributions may be sent to:
Matt G. Dralle
RV-List
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
A
>I don't know about anyone else but I very much miss the postings about the
>OMAB engine projext. I am unable (because of my net acess provider) to log
>on to rec.aviation. If you could let me know another way to get information
>I would certainly appreciate it.
Point your browser at http://www.dejanews.com (archive of usenet postings).
Not quite as convenient, but it works.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
><< I always thought that a bolt should extend beyond the nut by an amount at
>least
> equal to the bolt diameter. Is this right or excessive?
>
> Hal Kempthorne halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. (SJC)
> Debonair N6134V RV-6AQ on order!
> >>
>
>Hi All,
>
>FWIW, I have always heard the the maximum strength of a bolt is acheived with
>three, or more, threads protruding through the nut.
>
>However, the aerospace companies I've worked at typically have a quality
>inspection requirement for one to one and a half threads extending through
>the nut.
>
>Jim Ayers
Hello fellow RV'ers,
An easy way to remember why there is a spec is to understand why! If you
take an AN bolt and thread a AN365 nut on, you will see that once the
threads start showing through, the nut is nearing the end of the threads on
the other side of the nut. If you keep tightening the nut, it will
eventually reach the torque limit of the bolt/nut as the nut reaches the
unthreaded part of the bolt. Now imagine that you had two or more items on
the bolt shaft and you were trying to attach them securely but the bolt was
too long. The nut would bottom out on the shoulder of the bolt without
effectively compressing the surfaces that you were trying to secure.
Therefore, if you limit the threads to a limit of *one to three threads*
exposed, you are guaranteeing that the bolt has compressed the material it
is securing and not just reached the end of the thread.
My thought is that any threads exposed are not contributing to the strength,
they are just a safety in case the nut backs off. Any more than three
showing and you are approaching the end of the thread.
What do you do when you reach three exposed threads? Take the nut off and
add a washer under the nut. Still too long, add a washer under the head of
the bolt. Still too long, use a shorter bolt, or if you do not have that
length, put a second washer under the nut. I do not know how many washers
the standards will allow you to use. My personal limit is four washers.
The *Standard Aircraft Handbook* Van's has for $9.00 has some info on this
topic. Ideally, the threads of the bolt should not be within the hole if
the bolt is being used in shear, and there should be at least one washer
under the nut, which is the item turned (the nut) to tighten the bolt/nut
combination. Bill, not a leak, just mostly facts.
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Builders or Builders Group |
Maynard, Bryon wrote:
>
>
> I am moving to the New Orleans area next month, with my half built
> airplane, "I told the wife she could come along if she wanted to" .Is
> there anyone on this list that lives in the New Orleans area that is
> building an RV?
Hi..I'm just about 1 hour from New Orleans, In Picayune, Mississippi. I
know there are several rv's in New Orleans, as well as 2 -6's and 2 -4's
in various stages of completion here, in Picayune. It is much warmer
down here! Michael C. Lott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Tri-State Wing Newsletter |
Subj: Tri-State Wing Newsletter
Date: 97-01-30 14:25:12 EST
From: RUSS_NICHOLS(at)fire.ca.gov (RUSS NICHOLS)
Jim,
My check for this year just went into the mail!
I ordered the 96 issues late last year. To my surprise, I found my name
in
the first one I began reading... Right in the middle of the "that was a
bonehead move" column. I had posted my mistake to this group and it was
apparently prominent enough to catch your attention.
This forum and newsletters like yours are a HUGE resource to beginners
like
me. I wish I would have know about them before I made some of those
"bonehead moves". Then again... I still make one now and then even with
all
this help....
Thanks for all the work that makes a great newsletter!
Russ Nichols
8979 Bambridge Way
Elk Grove, CA 95758
(916)684-8867
russ_nichols(at)fire.ca.gov
---------------------
From: RUSS_NICHOLS(at)fire.ca.gov (RUSS NICHOLS)
Date: 97-01-30 14:25:12 EST
Jim,
My check for this year just went into the mail!
I ordered the 96 issues late last year. To my surprise, I found my name
in
the first one I began reading... Right in the middle of the "that was a
bonehead move" column. I had posted my mistake to this group and it was
apparently prominent enough to catch your attention.
This forum and newsletters like yours are a HUGE resource to beginners
like
me. I wish I would have know about them before I made some of those
"bonehead moves". Then again... I still make one now and then even with
all
this help....
Thanks for all the work that makes a great newsletter!
Russ Nichols
8979 Bambridge Way
Elk Grove, CA 95758
(916)684-8867
russ_nichols(at)fire.ca.gov
__________________________________________________________________
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing newsletter had an article and some pictures
of a rudder trim system last year and the January issue had an article to
clarify some questions about the size of the parts and other issues. The
1996 back issues are $5.00 and a new subscription for 1997 is also $5.00. If
you are interested, send me an E-mail with your address and I will send you
the back issues and the January 1997 issue and they can cross your check in
the snail mail. Money back guarantee.
Jim Cone, Editor
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing Newsletter
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
(314) 928-8703
fax (314) 447-8803
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A Fuselage Building Times |
I just completed my RV6A Wings and would like to know on average how many
hours are required to build the fuselage. Knowing others build hours will
help me to judge when I should order my Finish Kit which currently has
about a 12 week lead time for delivery.
Thanks for your help.
Ron Caldwell
RV6A N655RV - Reserved
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: newsletter subscription for 97 |
$8.00 is just right for foreign subscribers, although I don't really think
that Canadians are all that foreign. Thanks for your kind words.
Jim
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Everyone read this! |
Count me in again this year. The check's in the mail :-).
Jim Cone, Editor
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Problem |
>Just for those that count these things etc., the first RV6 built in France
>flew at the beginning of January 97. The plane, unfortunately not mine, was
>built by Michel Jaoul and Albert Lacombe in 18 months.
>The plane which now has about 15 hours on it and which I recently had a
>brief flight flies just like the specs say. It was my first trip in an RV
>and I was pleased to note how easy it was to fly and how light and well
>balanced are the controls.
>
>The only glitch is with the King 155 Nav Com, so perhaps some of you
>specialists can help. It is a problem with the COM section as the receive
>range is only about 3 N miles however the transmit range is normal i.e.
>several 10 of N miles. The antenna is the standard one fitted to the top of
>the fuselage. The Nav section works OK. Any ideas?
>
>Barry Ward; ward(at)axime.com Woking on flaps and aileron, Michel working? I
>hope on my fuselage , first flight scheduled for this century.
I can think of several real possibilities. Since the radio transmits, we
can assume the coax lead and antenna are functioning properly. Within a
radio transmitter is a switch which protects the receiver during a
transmission. A receiver is looking for very small signals to receive and
amplify. These signals will be in the range so small that the term *milli*
watts does not even describe it. When you transmit, the radio is sending
out about 10 watts. Unless the switch inside the radio disconnects the
receiver, the receiver will be blown up by all the power being transmitted.
This is one of the reasons they tell you to put two radio antennas from two
radios several feet apart, so the transmitting radio does not blow up the
receiving radio.
So:
- Either the receiver front end has been blown up or the switch is defective!
- Is the receiver receiving, but the audio channel to the headset shorted
to ground? Test this by pulling the squelch knob out and you should hear
noise in the headset. If you hear noise, the audio circuit is working
fine. If you do not hear the *white noise*, the audio channel is shorted
or the volume is turned down.
- Did you try turning the aircraft in a different direction to see if there
is a receive *blind spot*? This is a function of the antenna.
- Our assumption about the transmission was incorrect and there is a shorted
coaxial antenna lead.
There are other possibilities, but first test to see if you get the noise
in the headset when you pull the squelch knob out. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ve7fp(at)jetstream.net (Ken Hoshowski) |
There have been a number of posts recently on builders looking for good,
quality engines. The integrity of the seller is beyond reproach.
For Sale: Lycoming 0320-E2D 160 HP First Run. 0 Hrs since O/H to
certified standards ( Jan 97 ) Will run a C/S prop.
Asking $10,700.00 US
Contact Eustace Bowhay Ph. 250 675-4428 or Fax 250 675-3293
Eustaces RV 6 on amphib. floats see; August 96 Rvator or June in 1997
Calendar
Posted by:
Ken ve7fp(at)jetstream.net
Beautiful British Columbia
RV6 C-FKEH First flight on Sept 8/93 with Eustace at the controls and me
along as flight engineer!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Builders or Builders Group |
Maynard, Bryon wrote:
>
>
> I am moving to the New Orleans area next month, with my half built
> airplane, "I told the wife she could come along if she wanted to" .Is
> there anyone on this list that lives in the New Orleans area that is
> building an RV?
Give me a call when you get in town. We have at least a half dozen RV's
flying and a few under construction.
Robert Miller
(504) 455-1670
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GLASTARNET: "NO PROBLEM, MON" |
john:
Thanks for the reply, I will post it on the RVList. That is where the
thread came from. I posted it on the GS net because Ithought that it would
be of interest. Ihaven't had the opportunity to fly to the Bahamas yet, but
do intend to go to Mexico frequently in the GS. I don't think tat will be a
problem becuse I have seen homebuilts on the ramp down there.
>You probably asked the wrong guys on homebuilts in the bahamas. We go every
>year with homebuilts, and ever since a longez got its feet wet in the ocean a
>few years ago, they discovered that no one was getting permission. You do
>have to contact them for permission ahead of time and they ask for a lot of
>things. Probably you can get by easily because no one has ever asked to see
>our permission, all the times we have gotten it. They are not banned, but you
>should get permission. The EAA has the information. That is because your
>airworthiness certificate is useless outside the US boundaries. Fortunately
>most of the people, including tower people, that you will run into do not
>know the rules. One bahama official told me that I must get permission to
> leave the US in my homebuilt. Right!
>
>I do not bother with permission when we are just overflying the bahamas on
>the way to Grand Turk. There is much less chance of an encounter with an
>official looking for a bribe. that mostly happens in Nausau. You will only
>get in trouble if you have some problems and it attracts the attention of
>some knowledgable offical, and there are not many of them quite frankly.
> John Steichen
>Have fun.
John Top #5372
(619) 549-3356
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keeping warm . . . |
<< Insulating
the cabin side walls with .25" flame retardant foam also make a big heat
difference, as well as helping in sound attenuation. >>
Fred
I am interested in the source of your .25 (250 mil) insulation. Thanks
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Does anyone have an address or number of the people who sell the OMABP
chevy vortec v-6 engines? The rv-6 flying with it now sounds very
promising.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rod End Bearings for Rudder |
Tripp, hi
You got a lot of answers about the tool, but none about the distances.
The bottom rod-end bearing is larger, and you can't get 13/16" spacing from the
spar on all 3
bearings. What I did was to start by screwing the bottom and top ones in almost
all the way, and
then make sure (by measuring) that the middle one is screwed in far enough to get
full engagment of
the threads in the nutplate. Then you can make adjustments to the other 2 bearings
to get the gap
between rudder and VS even, and the counterweight horn to line up with the top.
Phil
John A Myrick III wrote:
>
>
> I have just completed the rudder for my RV8 and I have a couple of
> questions for the list.
>
> First, what is the best tool to screw the rod end bearings into the nut
> plates on the rudder and elevators?
>
> Second, I have studied the plans for my empennage kit and I can not find
> the distance for the rod end bearing bolt hole from the spar. The ones
> for the elevator are shown to be 13/16th. Am I to assume that this is
> the same for the rudder?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tripp Myrick
> tmyrick(at)juno.com
> RV-8 SN 80085 (wings due this week)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Jorgensen <rpjorgen(at)wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Press no Bargain |
I havent yet begun construction of RV, but I do have a machine shop and I
build custom bicycles and tandem bicycles.
I buy almost all my tools from MSC, an industrial supply house. They are
incredibly fast, efficient, and they have a real killer catalog.
They sell everthing from drill bits to lathes and milling machines.
their phone number is 800-645-7270
*****************************************************************************
rick jorgensen
email address:rpjorgen(at)wheel.ucdavis.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mark jennings" <markjenn(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
>> I was very (extremely?) surprised to discover that more than 90% of the
tension
>> i.e., compression of the plates being bolted together was achieved by the
first
>> three threads.
This is consistent with what I've read in in "Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts,
Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook." If you want to know EVERYTHING about how
fasteners work, this is the bible. Smith is a mostly a racing car guy, but
there are lots of discussions of aviation applications. Lots of references to
Bingelis, Pazmany, etc. Long discussion of rivets. Highly recommended.
Another thing I learned is that, if possible, you should turn the nut rather
than the bolt when tightening to avoid reaming out the hole holding the bolt.
You can turn the bolt in a pinch, but you should try and turn the nut. Until
I read this, I just torqued away with whichever was handiest.
If you have trouble finding titles like this at a local bookstore, I also
highly recommend http://amazon.com, an on-line bookstore. They have this
stuff and can get it to you withing a couple days. Great customer services,
secure ordering.
I'm not associated with either Smith or Amazon so this is an unsolicited plug.
- Mark
===============
Mark Jennings
markjenn(at)msn.com
206-462-6628
206-453-0374 (Fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "garrett v. smith" <blueskyman(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Lycoming-electronic igntion/fuel injection |
----------
From: Garrett V. Smith[FAX:+1 (403) 730-8093]
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 1997 8:12 AM
Subject: Lycoming-electronic igntion/fuel injection
Hi All:
In the quest for a more efficient Lycoming, is anyone aware of an electronic
ignition for the Lyc. I have heard of a certified ignition system, however, I
am
curious if someone has had any luck with an un-certified system for
the homebuilt crowd. Any info is appreciated.
Regarding fuel injection, any comments on how the AirFlow Performance
FI system compares to the factory Lyc FI, price, performance, etc.
Thanks,
Garrett Smith
Calgary,Canada
blueskyman(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Apollo Slim line |
Check out IIMorrow's new Slim line.
http://www.IImorrow.com/
Pretty good looking stuff.
John Top #5372
(619) 549-3356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: omabp engines |
Michael,
Belted Air Power is selling the firewall forward setup. They are at
702-384-8006. They have an unofficial web page at http://SportFlyer.com/ .
>From here click on engines. Select Ron Wanttaja's Aviation Engine pages.
Select OMABP.
The install looks very nice and clean, it looks like the price is going to
be right, and it sounds beautiful in flight. On the down side the cruise
performance seems to be a little off, and the airplane is anywhere from 40
to 100 lbs heavier (depends on who you talk to) than a comparably equiped
Lyc powered RV-6A.
There is an article on the airplane in the current Contact Magazine edition.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Does anyone have an address or number of the people who sell the OMABP
>chevy vortec v-6 engines? The rv-6 flying with it now sounds very
>promising.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morristec(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Becker Com Radio |
To all;
The Becker AR3201 com radio fits a 2.25" hole and has very low receive power
drain (25ma). They are German and expensive but do a fine job for the size
and power. I have talked with gliders equipped with these radios over 200
mi. away. Options include volt indication and OAT. More money of course.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)aol.com
RV6 in PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
One way to avoid any gear wobble on a RV landing gear would be to use Brown
and Sharpe Taper pins in place of bolts.
These, for those not aware of them, are relatively low taper pins that come
with a screw thread on one end. ACS has them in stock that could be used in
the main gear of the -6A. You have to buy a B&S reamer. I purchased two
when I had some doubts as to my gear allignment. (When the wings were on the
second time to fit all the misc junk, I rechecked them, and they were
correct.)
I used B&S taper pins on the center stick control system of the HP-18 (15
Meter glider) fuselage I designed and built to replace the original side
stick version. Had a 7/8" steel tube torque rod to transmit aileron motion
from the stick to mixer assembly. Had to break it assembly, and normal bolts
had too much slop. A taper pin in this type of use makes it like a solid
tube.
Bruce Patton
Air box and baffels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Lycoming-electronic igntion/fuel injection |
garrett v. smith wrote:
>
> Hi All:
>
> In the quest for a more efficient Lycoming, is anyone aware of an electronic
> ignition for the Lyc.
yes, check the rv-list archives.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Smith <kpsmith(at)cnsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Fuselage Building Times |
Check tghe archive. Rick McBride kept a detailed log and posted it
showing all his "actuals".
He has an email address, but i cannot remember it off the top of my
head...RickRV-6??
ken smith
6 in the waiting stage in the shop..waiting for rivets to be driven in
the tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
John Darby wrote:
(snip) I guess for the very exact inclined people, the coefficiency of linear
expansion of
metal jigs may require that they be checked often as well? :-)
__________________________________
John:
Point of clartification so I can make a joke. A "jig" guides cutting tools to
perform an
operation on a part. A "fixture" holds the part. Often jigs are attached to fixtures.
The coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE) for carbon (1020) steel is 7.85 millionths
of an inch
per inch per degree (f) or 7.85 X 10 e-6. Just to get a feel for things a 72"
fixture would
grow or shrink 0.028" for a 50 degree (f) temperature difference. Steel is not
bothered by
humidity like wood and the CTE is precisely repeatable. Actually, all one would
have to do is
look at the thermometer to know the conditions of the fixture. Leading to comments
like "it
won't work because its so cold my fixture shrunk"! :-)
BTW the CTE for 6061 aluminum is 13.7 x 10 e-6.
mea culpa, mea culpa,
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
Tim Bronson wrote:
Has anyone out there done any research on what paint colors and designs
offer best overall visibility
________________________
There were a lots of very good suggestions about what color scheme to
use. Also good information about contrasting colors against a particular
background. However, I did not see anything about the color green. I
know this sounds like absolute heresy and runs counter to all of the
day-glow-orange Coast Guard planes and of course the traditional red (or
orange) hunting jackets BUT of all of the colors in the visible
spectrum, the human eye detects the color green better than any other
color. Specifically, the wave length at 5145 angstrom (500-520 microns)
is perceived by the eye better than anything else. What I mean is under
EQUAL light conditions and equal REFLECTIVITY - if you put a green
jacket and a red jacket on two individuals and have them walk out of
sight the red jacket will disappear before you stop seeing the green
one. I know it runs counter to conventional thinking & I also cant
remember my source. Just offering this as another data point for your
consideration.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
Bill, While we are on the subject of "Bolting Practices", could you expalin
why we use washers at all ?
I know this is pretty basic - but most of us are not engineers.
John C-GDOC, almost ready to paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
Why use a washer?
Spreads the load imposed by the nut head and bolt head. Also provides a smooth
bearing surface for the nut to turn upon. This is esp. important if you are
bolting up plates that are not smooth or are of a material that doesn't have a
low coefficient of friction.
With that in mind, why use stacked washers? Answer: bolt is too long.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
Green is quite likely better than red as a "most visible" candidate.........in
the lab.
But defenseless frogs are green for camoflage against the lily pad and red frogs
are poisonous so you won't confuse them with their green buddies.
Still, those horrid green fire trucks are more visible than red ones, so I
guess it depends on the hue, background, and a plethora of factors, all of which
combine to the sum total of paint it the way you like it.
Ribbit!
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
Re: B&S taper pins in lieu of bolts.
Absolutely keerect!!!!! Best solution to the problem....even beats welding by
a mile.
Why better than welding? Welding causes heat-induced changes in the temper of
the metal and unless the welds are of the proper length, number and position,
they can be stress concentrators.
Example: Two plates 12" long. Welding them full length is not as strong as 1"
welds 1" apart.
Reason: Heat/cool of welding induces stresses that can be mitigated by the
spaces between the welds.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
>But defenseless frogs are green for camoflage against the lily pad and red
frogs
>are poisonous so you won't confuse them with their green buddies.
OK... let's paint our planes so they don't look like those poisonous plastic
ones.
>Ribbit!
I think you mean "Rivet!" :-)
Frank.
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass;
Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel
Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read".
PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | Dimpling Skins with Plastic Coating |
If you want to laugh picture me in my basement with my first RV8 tail skin.
I had purchased the tool kit from Avery so I had all the right dies and
the dimpling jig and everything. Only tool I didn't have was a hammer. I
did have a light rubber mallet though. I figured that would work. I
practiced making dimples and it only took about 6 hard whacks to make each
one. At this point in time I should have just gone to the store and bought
a hammer but hey, I was on a roll.
So there I was beating the hell out of the C-frame dimpling tool on the
floor of my room. Every whack sent the tool bouncing and the skin shaking.
After the fifth hole I was pounding it so hard that the skin popped up off
the male die and moved just enough that the next whack put a new hole in
the skin. It was so close to the real hole that the whole skin was a loss.
If that wasn't bad enough when the mallet bounced off the dimple tool the
very first time I whacked myself in the forehead. So there I was with a
red mark on my head and a ruined skin just because I wasn't willing to wait
a day to get a real hammer...
-Mike
RV8 Wing Spars Arriving tomorrow!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Baines <Bill(at)sfu.ca> |
| Subject: | Becker Com Radio |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC1116.965C10E0
-----Original Message-----
From: NYSYR.ANG.AF.MIL!JBALBIERER(at)matronics.com =
[SMTP:NYSYR.ANG.AF.MIL!JBALBIERER(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 1997 1:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Becker Com Radio
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: JBALBIERER(at)NYSYR.ANG.AF.MIL
Anyone out there know where I can get a hold of a new Becker Comm Radio. =
=20
Apparently it is a Geman radio that is 3 1/8" diameter with a good =
output.
John Balbierer
RV-6, Syracuse, NY
[Bill Baines] The Becker AR4201 is a solid 7 watt radio that mounts =
into a 2 1/4" hole. It is a newer better version of the older AR32xx =
radio. It draws very little current and has excellent tx and rx audio. =
It can display the buss voltage powering it (i.e. 13.75 VDC or =
whatever), and with an optional probe it can display OAT. It has red =
backlighting behind a good quality multi row LCD. It also has the common =
FLIP-FLOP frequency selection features which most new style COMs have.=20
I have installed a few of these in different aircraft types. Only two =
gave us a little difficulty. One is an antique aircraft with a very =
noisy DC generator i.e. HASH on the DC buss, and that garbled the TX =
audio. The other was mounted vertically (i.e. panel at top oriented to =
the horizontal) in a commercial helicopter which worked in a very dirty =
environment. Some sand and grit worked its way into the little buttons, =
not the electronics, but the but the buttons on the faceplate. It only =
took a few minutes to clean the unit up. All in all, I like these =
radios, and feel that the extra dollars are worth the quality you get.
Becker also has planned -- a matching Mode A/C transponder, but as far =
as I know it is not yet available. Last time I checked, the transponder =
offering had older style thumbwheel switches a remote box that had to be =
mounted somewhere.
Any Becker eqpt I have installed is approved to the EURO JTSO standards =
which seem to have the same or similar requirements as the FAA TSOs.
[Bill Baines]
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC1116.965C10E0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List:Fresh air |
So, I get my RVator and I'm looking around and I see this THING: fresh air
vent in the back seat of the -8 with a ducting coming......from the WING?
What's that? A few years back I saw a -4 with a NACA vent under the wing
for fresh air. Has Van adapted this to the -8? Is it in the plans? Where
on the wing exactly is the vent? Looks like my GIB would like that a lot.
Michael
RV-4 232 SQ
mikel(at)dimensional.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morristec(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
To all,
<>
Turning the bolt also potentially scores the shank of the bolt setting up a
stress riser that may cause the bolt to crack. This is especially critical
for highly loaded fasteners. Keep this in mind for the engine mount bolts
which go through steel which easily scores the bolt, and the wing spar bolts
which are of high importance.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morristec(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Lycoming-electronic igntion/fuel injection |
Garret,
I am installing the Lightspeed Engineering Electronic ignition system in
place of one Magneto, and the Airflow Performance FI on a Lyc. 0-320. Since
I haven't run the engine yet, I can't testify to the operation, but I can say
that both of these companies are very knowledgable about their equipment, and
the quality seems excellent. I have also spoken to others at OSH that have
had this combination and had only good things to say about reliability and
performance.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | bolting practices/welding practices |
Hi Mike,
You're correct re. separate welds having an inherent ability to stop crack
propagation. As to the intermitent weld being stronger, I wasn't entirely
correct. I should have qualified it by noting that a continuous weld that has
not been stress-relieved is not as strong as intermittent welds.
If you've done any welding at all you've noticed that when you're done, the
parts are no longer aligned (assuming they're not bolted down). That's because
the molten metal shrinks as it cools, pulling everything out of whack. Twelve
inches of weld will induce more internal stress than six inches of weld. And if
they parts are bolted down the stresses really go up!
Additionally, the heat of welding will completely alter the characteristics of
the base material. And unless you either control the process far better than is
likely anywhere outside of a major industry, such as done with pressurized
piping or aircraft structures, you're simply going to weaken the joint via
induced stress more than you'll strengthen it by extra welding.
Did you ever notice a sign on the side of the frame of a 18 wheeler that says,
"Do not weld to this frame!"? That's because aluminum loses it's temper at
about 350 F. (Scuba divers - Don't powder coat that tank!)
So how come we've got no big scaries re. the engine mount? Safety margin in the
design, process control and highly skilled people doing the work. At least I
assume/hope/pray so.
I should add that one of the neatest suggestions I've seen on this BB is the
one regarding painting the engine mount white and not using a powder coat. PC
is thick and black is, well, black. Both of these factors will hide cracks.
A dandy book to have (if you've got $50 burning a hole in the budget) is the
Tool and Manufacturing Engineers Handbook pub. by The Society of Manufacturing
Engineers. Lotsa good info and guaranteed to look great next to your Bingelis
bibles.
cheers!
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List:Fresh air vents |
Hi all,
I can tell you one sort of vent that doesn't work with diddly: those plastic,
pop out, cylinders. You know, the type used on the windshield of motorcycles.
You'd be amazed at the negative pressure along the sides of an RV-4. Makes that
little sucker just pop right out regardless of what you want.
Avoid 'em.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Lessons I shoulda remembered from ground school 101
My composure was not aided, to say the least, having the engine go sputter, pop,
sputter, pop etc. at 400 ft. agl on a long downwind.
And then go Bleagh pop sputter when I turned on the Carb heat at 350'.
300' and she started smoothing out
On the ground did a runup to 2000 rpm, left mag, right mag, both.......runs
fine?!?!?!?
Into the hanger, cowl off, crawl all over the place, pull the gascolator
(clean), look at the exhaust, (shrug), have a Coke and consider what happened,
what did I do, what happened then.
Answer: Ice. 65 deg. high humidity. ( ATIS gave dew point but I don't
remember now what it was.) Long descent, and the problem started when a touch
of power was added because the tower asked for an extended downwind leg.
Lesson here for all of us, folks. It can happen and it doesn't have to be cold
outside! Use that carb heat lever.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: Lycoming-electronic igntion/fuel injection |
<< In the quest for a more efficient Lycoming, is anyone aware of an
electronic
ignition for the Lyc. I have heard of a certified ignition system, however,
I
am
curious if someone has had any luck with an un-certified system for
the homebuilt crowd. Any info is appreciated.
Regarding fuel injection, any comments on how the AirFlow Performance
FI system compares to the factory Lyc FI, price, performance, etc.
Thanks,
Garrett Smith
Calgary,Canada >>
Jeff Rose has what appears to be the best ignition, IMHO. I don't have one,
as of yet. I do, however, have one of the Airflow units on my bird, and it
works much smoother than the bendix units I've used. I recommend it, and the
folks that make it, highly.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
>Keep this in mind for the engine mount bolts
>which go through steel which easily scores the bolt, and the wing spar bolts
>which are of high importance.
>
Dan
Have you found a box end or socket for the nut on the 320 E2D engine mount
bolts? I haven't and the local FBO said he didn't know of one. With the
way the engine mount is built, you can't get a bolt from the eng. to the
mount with the bolt head on the eng. side, has to be the other way. Then,
without maybe a special tool?, you can't get in to torque the nut, only from
the bolt head. I'm not flaming you, I agree with the nut as first choice,
but this is one place of steel etc that I never found a solution, so the
bolt head got the torque.
As for the washer thing, somewhere I picked up on 3 washers under the nut
and one under the bolt as maximum, if more is needed, use a shorter bolt.
(don't remember the source, may have been in my tractor manual :-))
Along with that, some where I got that there is a correct and wrong side
of a washer to put under the bolt head. With the radiused angle from under
the head to the shank, the sharp side of the washer would create a stress
point, whereas the rounded side of the washer fits smoother. I assume the
smooth side comes from a die cut out, can't imagine some one sitting there
all day smoothing the edges of washers!!!
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morrissey <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Australian RV6 - For Sale |
This one's for Aussie RV list member's, Sorry to all the others!
A friend of mine has to sell his RV6 :-(
The details of the aircraft and his contact details are as follows:-
Van's RV6
New and beautifully finished RV-6 with only 256 hours. Fully certified as
VH-SIX. All instruments and engine new. O-360 A1A Lycoming, Amyar-Demuth
prop. Dual Comms, transponder, Shadin fuel management system, Garmin GPS
95, AH, DG, Electronics International Ultimate scanner, electric flaps and
trim etc., etc., Best All metal Aircraft Langley park /Serpentine fly-in 1996
$100K AUD
Ph 06 2817666 (Work)
06 2312816 (Home)
Ask for Andre Viljoen
Thank's
John Morrissey
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
John Morrissey
CSIRO ITS
Data Communications Manager
Phone:- 06 2766811
Fax:- 06 2766617
Mobile:- 018 628804
Email:- John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au
CSIRO ---- AUSTRALIA'S SCIENCE, AUSTRALIA'S FUTURE!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Lycoming-electronic igntion/fuel injection |
>Hi All:
>In the quest for a more efficient Lycoming, is anyone aware
>of an electronic ignition for the Lyc. I have heard of a
>certified ignition system, however, I am curious if someone
>has had any luck with an un-certified system for the
>homebuilt crowd. Any info is appreciated.
>Garrett Smith Calgary,Canada
Garrett,
I'm not sure "luck" has much to do with it any more.
Two gentelmen of my acquaintance have been producing
aftermarked ignition systems for homebuider's for
years. Call Jeff at 615-622-8825 and Klaus at
805-933-3299. Get info packages from both of them
and be sure to tell them I sent you . . I get a
really fat finder's fee for new customer referals.
Seriously, both of these systems are worth your
time and effort to investigate.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
Listers,
I'm just about done wiring my panel and have run into a problem that I can't
seem to solve. I have a 35 amp alternator from Van's and my max current
draw with everything burning will be around 30 amps. I'm installing an
alternate feed to my main bus per Bob Nuckolls. To isolate the main bus,
I'm installing a "pullable" 40 amp breaker on it's main feed. The idea
being the bus can be isolated from the rest of the aircraft and wired
directly to the battery by pulling the main feed breaker and flipping the
alternate feed switch.
Now here's the problem. The 40 amp Potter Brumfield breaker has 8-32
terminals. A 40 amp breaker should be sized with 8 gauge wire. There does
not appear to be any terminals available to connect an 8 gauge wire to an
8-32 terminal. I've checked Wicks, ASS and even Mousser. The closest that
I've come is Mousser who has 8-32 ring terminals for 10 gauge wire.
Any suggestions on how to make this connection? I've thought about pulling
two 10 gauge leads from the master solenoid to the 40 amp breaker. I'm not
sure how wise this would be though.
Thanks in advance.
Scott Gesele N506RV (expecting to see air under the tires this Spring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Robert Fritz wrote:
(snip...) (Scuba divers - Don't powder coat that tank!)
> So how come we've got no big scaries re. the engine mount? Safety margin in
the
> design, process control and highly skilled people doing the work. At least I
> assume/hope/pray so.
>
> I should add that one of the neatest suggestions I've seen on this BB is the
> one regarding painting the engine mount white and not using a powder coat. PC
> is thick and black is, well, black. Both of these factors will hide cracks.
-----------------------------------------
During all of the talk (in past months) about painting of the engine mounts all
respondents were
correctly concerned about crack detection. Powder coating got a bad wrap because
it was felt that
the film thickness would cover a crack better than paint (or would not crack like
paint) and
therefore hide the beginning of a crack.
First, why not clean and polish the motor mount with fine emery to a high, beautiful,
shiny
luster. The tubes are round and the process is simple. Note, I am NOT advocating
a 60 or 80 grit
that will leave severe scratches. Use 240 or 400 and finish with 600. The result
will be a
beautiful, polished tube structure. Almost chrome-like WITHOUT the danger of chroming
(hydrogen
embrittlement).
Second, have it powder-coated using a CLEAR coat. You now have a beautiful, shiny,
(almost-stainless-looking) coat that will PREVENT RUSTING of the metal. It will
wipe clean and
you can easily see through it for crack detection. I have used this process and
the shine lasts
forever. It is incredibly tough (far superior to paint).
Third, the temp of the process does not exceed 400f. These temperatures are so
far BELOW the
annealing temp of steel to NOT be a factor at all. In fact they are a benefit.
We routinely
bake-out welded structures to drive the hydrogen out of the weld area. This is
a BENEFIT and
reduces the possibility of hydrogen embrittlement. I think that Robert is indicating
(above)
that, due to the temperature of the powder coat process, it may effect your welded
(STEEL)
structure. IMHO the low temperature of the process can only HELP your metallurgy.
This opinion is offered by a currently uncertified welder and not a practicing
or qualified
metallurgist.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 A1A RV-6 CG? |
Dear Listers,
I am doing a basic VFR panel with two gyros, and using a Hartzell
constant speed prop.
How does the CG work out with the battery in the normal location
behind the firewall? Will it stay within limits with one pilot and low on
fuel with an empty baggage bin? If not, what are some tipical solutions?
Thanks in advance for your response.!
Ron Vandervort,RV-6Q, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. W. Benedict" <jbenedic(at)uofport.edu> |
| Subject: | RV Flight Bag On-Line! |
On behalf of Judy VanGrunsven and RV Flight Bag:
RV Flight Bag has just finished development of a web site showcasing all
of their product offerings. RV Flight Bag produces personal RV
accessories including, but not limited to: shirts, models, flight bags,
earrings, glass sets, stickers, coffee mugs, stationery, rubber stamps,
picture frames, binders, and more, of course, all RV!
The site will be located at a temporary location until Feb 5, 1997, when
it will find a new home. The new location will be posted here, and linked
from Van's Aircraft's Homepage (www.earthlink.net/~rkhu/vans).
Until then, enjoy what every RV enthusiast must need at:
http://www.portlands.com
Jeremy
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
| name://Jeremy Benedict | PP-ASEL (1994) [R/E: TD,HP] |
| email://jbenedic(at)uofport.edu | Logged: RV-4,-6,-6A,-6B,-6T |
| http://wally.uofport.edu/~jbenedic| Cessna 150, 182 |
| voice://503.240.1524 | TT: 260.5 hrs TT-RV: 163.1 hrs |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Fresh air |
<< So, I get my RVator and I'm looking around and I see this THING: fresh air
vent in the back seat of the -8 with a ducting coming......from the WING?
What's that? A few years back I saw a -4 with a NACA vent under the wing
for fresh air. Has Van adapted this to the -8? Is it in the plans? Where
on the wing exactly is the vent? Looks like my GIB would like that a lot.
Michael
RV-4 232 SQ
mikel(at)dimensional.com
WELL!!
I showed Bill from Van's my installation at Copperstate '93. Sounds like one
of the higher ups decided to try it.
My GIB really likes it. Installation instruction available from the archives.
Check six!
Mark
mlfred(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
There was a lot of discussion recently regarding the use of the short
extruded hinge on the front inside cowl versus plates and screws.
During construction I actually changed from a plate to the hinge...not
really sure why...just one of those things I guess.
Anyway, this weekend I had the pleasure of changing one of the sections
that had cracked after only about 50 hours. As I was making the
replacement piece, I noticed that the crack had come from the sharp
right angle between the loops to a rivet hole.
On further investigation, it seems those right angles are very sharp
and don't conform to what I have come to recognise as a properly
finished angle. So I set to work with some 600 grit and smoothed the
corners.
I'm not sure if this is the cause of all the cracking, but for you
folks putting the hinge on, it may be worth spending a few minutes to
touch up the hinge..you never know.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
More on fasteners...
The way in which nuts are tested to determine there thread shear strength is by
threading a hardened steel mandrel and pulling it thru the nut. The strength
is the load divided by the mean thread area. Common nuts have a stripping
strength in the range of 90 kpsi. To achieve this strength - only the first
three full threads are required.
When a typical joint is secured, the bolt begins to stretch and the spacing
between the threads increases. Initially the first thread of the nut carries
all of the clamp load. As the load is increased the nuts 1st. thread is
stressed beyond yield and this allows the second thread to start sharing the
load. This continues until the first three threads are sharing the load. The
yielding of the threads is why it is recommended that nuts be replaced after
being removed.
As far as which to torque - You will generate more tension for a given torque
if you tighten the nut. This is due to the fact that less of the torque you
input is being used to twist the bolt. If you tighten the bolt, you are
twisting the end of a small torsional spring. Winding up the spring takes
energy that otherwise would be used to add additional clamp load. Tightening
the nut also twists the bolt due to friction at the thread interface, but not
to the same degree as tightening the bolt head. Because of this torsional wind
up of the bolt during tightening (and the additional torsional stress on the
bolt during tightening) , if the bolt does not break during tightening - there
is a very good possibility that it will not break in service.
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Senior Research Engineer
Advance Vehicle Technology
Ford Motor Company
Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: powder coating |
An interesting addition to the thread on powder coating:
Powder coating comes in a whole lot of different flavors. I had a lot of
powder coating done on a boat that I used to own including a galvanized
finish on butane and kerosene tanks.
>During all of the talk (in past months) about painting of the engine
>mounts all respondents were
>correctly concerned about crack detection. Powder coating got a bad wrap
>because it was felt that
>the film thickness would cover a crack better than paint (or would not
>crack like paint) and
>therefore hide the beginning of a crack.
>
>First, why not clean and polish the motor mount with fine emery to a high,
>beautiful, shiny
>luster. The tubes are round and the process is simple. Note, I am NOT
>advocating a 60 or 80 grit
>that will leave severe scratches. Use 240 or 400 and finish with 600.
>The result will be a
>beautiful, polished tube structure. Almost chrome-like WITHOUT the danger
>of chroming (hydrogen
>embrittlement).
>
>Second, have it powder-coated using a CLEAR coat. You now have a
>beautiful, shiny,
>(almost-stainless-looking) coat that will PREVENT RUSTING of the metal. It
>will wipe clean and
>you can easily see through it for crack detection. I have used this
>process and the shine lasts
>forever. It is incredibly tough (far superior to paint).
>
>Third, the temp of the process does not exceed 400f. These temperatures
>are so far BELOW the
>annealing temp of steel to NOT be a factor at all. In fact they are a
>benefit. We routinely
>bake-out welded structures to drive the hydrogen out of the weld area.
>This is a BENEFIT and
>reduces the possibility of hydrogen embrittlement. I think that Robert
>is indicating (above)
>that, due to the temperature of the powder coat process, it may effect
>your welded (STEEL)
>structure. IMHO the low temperature of the process can only HELP your
>metallurgy.
>
>This opinion is offered by a currently uncertified welder and not a
>practicing or qualified
>metallurgist.
>
>-Elon
John Top #5372
(619) 549-3356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GLASTARNET: "NO PROBLEM, MON" |
I posted what I thought was the final message of the thread on travel to
the Bahamas on the GS net. I posted one of there replies earlier. Here is
another one that might be of interest. Joe is our resident law professor.
He built and is flying and RV-3 and is now building a GlaStar.
>A short thread developed regarding international travel in
>homebuilts, focusing primarily on the Bahamas. I have done a fair
>amount of research on the issue of international travel in
>experimentals - e.g., phone calls, e-mail or faxes to EAA, AOPA, and
>IAOPA (Int'l AOPA). EAA mentioned that after reading some of the info
>they might publish an article in an upcoming Sport Aviation on the
>subject.
>
>The *problem* - it seems to me - is that if one just flies into a
>foreign country without written permission any number of things may
>happen.
>
>1. Nothing.
>2. Arrest, conviction, fine and/or jail.
>3. Seizure of airplane (and its contents).
>4. Requirement that permission must be obtained before the plane is
>flown again. "Let's see, what you want is for me to leave my plane in
>Titsitanago, write the capital, get some official(s) to issue
>permission . . ."
>
>Getting permission beforehand seems prudent, but even international
>balloonists seem to have problems in that regard.
>
>I plan to fly to the Bahamas, the Caymans, Mexico and Canada (at
>least!). Perhaps those of us so inclined could keep each other
>informed of our efforts to obtain information, permission, etc. ??
>
>I do note that a GlaStar has flown internationally; many RVs have
>done round-the-worlds, North-South America, etc.; a T-18 has done a
>round-the-world, and way, long ago a Poly-something that looked like
>a tadpole made what I believe was the first round-the-world in an
>experimental.
>
>Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Construction Questions |
I would like to meet, talk, and set eyes on an RV4 within 75 miles of
West Point, New York. I am in the process of starting the fuselage
construction. Proprosed configuration is an IO 360 with a constant speed
prop. I have questions concerning rivet and nutplate conflicts, assembly
sequences, and CG considerations. Talking to someone that has been down the
road would be helpful. Visiting a finished craft to observe and learn would
be most appreciated. I can be reached at the following:
email: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
Home phone (914) 783-2518
Work 800 331-8006
Thanks in advance!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy J. Etherington" <tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Future of GPS |
In the matters of navigation, the military has always had control to shut down
navigation aids during times of emergencies. GPS will be no exception and it
should not suprise you that the military is coming up with methods that can jam
civil GPS signals. During the big wars, general aviation was not allowed to fly
much. There is a whole plan (SCATANA I think) that details how airspace and
navigation aids are controled during these times. This is nothing new and is
designed to protect us from smart guided things in times of war.
Tim Etherington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
----- Begin Included Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lpr <lronnau(at)cisco.com> |
>AVweb <http://www.avweb.com/>has been collecting humourous entries from
>cockpit squawk sheets. Here are some of the best:
>
> Problem: "Left inside main tire almost needs replacement."
> Solution: "Almost replaced left inside main tire."
>
> Problem: "Test flight OK, except autoland very rough."
> Solution: "Autoland not installed on this aircraft."
>
> Problem #1: "#2 Propeller seeping prop fluid."
> Solution #1: "#2 Propeller seepage normal."
> Problem #2: "#1,#3, and #4 propellers lack normal seepage."
>
> Problem: "Something loose in cockpit."
> Solution: "Something tightened in cockpit."
>
> Problem: "Evidence of hydraulic leak on right main landing gear."
> Solution: "Evidence removed."
>
> Problem: "Number three engine missing."
> Solution: "Engine found on right wing after brief search."
>
> Problem: "DME volume unbelievably loud."
> Solution: "Volume set to more believable level."
>
>
-lpr
----- End Included Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | More humor: The Art Of War |
----- Begin Included Message -----
> The ever-present British Humour...
>
> Another enemy decoy, built in occupied Holland, led to a tale that has been
> told and retold ever since by veteran Allied pilots. The German "airfield,"
> constructed with meticulous care, was made almost entirely of wood.
> There were wooden hangars, oil tanks, gun emplacements, trucks, and
> aircraft.
> The Germans took so long in building their wooden decoy that Allied photo
> experts had more than enough time to observe and report it.
> The day finally came when the decoy was finished, down to the last wooden
> plank. And early the following morning, a lone RAF plane crossed the
> Channel, came in low, circled the field once, and dropped a large wooden
> bomb.
----- End Included Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
I am down to the few final details of finishing my 6A ( YEH !)
Does anybody have any ideas on how to make a glare shield bumper, so that
the chances of cutting a face in a quick stop can be minimized.
The only thing I can think of it to take a hose, cut it up the middle, and
slip it over the glareshield edge. But this would look extremely ugly. How
could you dress that up.
Also, I am wondering whether I should paint the top surface of the
glareshield black or put a black material over it. It seems it may be hard
to get material to lay flat and not wrinkle. Any comments on what worked for
you would be greatly appreicated.
Thanks to all who respond
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Emotional Status: Extreme exhilaration that the finished wings attached to
the finished fuselage easily and with the proper incidences ( first timers
luck - with lots of measuring in between ). Next time I build, I won't wait
to the end to find out !
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6/6A Tail Kit for Sale... |
| From: | John Hovan <hovan(at)apple.com> |
Hi All,
Due to a change in my marital status, I will be selling my 85% completed
RV6/6A tail kit.
The work thus far has been inspected by Tony Bingelis, Seth Hancock and
Mark Frederick. The left elevator is approximately 25% complete. All
other pieces have been built. (less fiberglass finish work)
If you are interested, please contact me at: (512) 251-9009 or through
the internet. Will part with kit for $1300 or best offer by March 1st,
1997.
thanks,
John Hovan
(512) 251-9009
Pflugerville, TX (between Austin and Georgetown)
ps. I plan to continue updating the RV web page. "rv.austin.apple.com"
pss. Building this kit was not responsible for the change in my marital
status. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Need Advice Desperately For A DAR on RV's |
I got depressing news today from my FAA inspector. My plane will be ready
for inspection in 10 days. He has informed me that he can't do it until the
end of March or later.
I am on vacation this month and would like to use some of this time to fly
the 40 hours off in the test area.
Does anybody know of a good DAR that I could possibly contact ( I would be
willing to pay their travel expenses ). The two the FAA have given me in
the Chicago area have not gotten very good marks from other RV builders who
have used them in the area. They took longer than the FAA in getting around
to doing the inspection and completing the paper work.
I am so eager to fly, that I request somebody take my key if I can't get
this inspected before then. My dark side is beginning to speak loudly to me
about flying before that without ...
Desperate Scott in Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Wiring Question |
>I'm just about done wiring my panel and have run
>into a problem that I can't seem to solve. I have
>a 35 amp alternator from Van's and my max current
>draw with everything burning will be around 30 amps.
>I'm installing an alternate feed to my main bus per
>Bob Nuckolls. To isolate the main bus, I'm installing
>a "pullable" 40 amp breaker on it's main feed.
How come so big????? Except in rare cases,
the essential bus loads should not exceed 4-5
amps . . . a 15-amp feed should be plenty
big!
>The idea being the bus can be isolated from the
>rest of the aircraft and wired directly to the battery
>by pulling the main feed breaker and flipping the
>alternate feed switch.
We don't recommend tying the essential bus though
a "solid" connection like a pullable breaker . . .
an isolation diode is necesary to prevent accidental
backfeed of the main bus through the alternate feed
path with attendant possiblity of popping it's fuse
and killing the whole system. . . . The diode voltage
drop is a NON issue . . . consider that with an
alternator off line, battery voltage will be 12.5
volts or LESS. If one expects essential bus powered
devices to function on battery only at or below
12.5 volts, what's the problem with 13.2 or better
when feed through a diode from an alternator powered
main bus?
>Now here's the problem. The 40 amp Potter Brumfield breaker
>has 8-32 terminals. A 40 amp breaker should be sized with
>8 gauge wire. There does not appear to be any terminals
>available to connect an 8 gauge wire to an 8-32 terminal.
They ARE available but I'd recommend you replace the
40 amp breaker with a 15 amp breaker and install the
isolation diode. If you've got more than 5 amps of
steady state essential bus loads, we need to talk
about it . . .
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
> >
> Does anybody have any ideas on how to make a glare shield bumper, so that
> the chances of cutting a face in a quick stop can be minimized.
>
A friend recently solved the problem on his 6. First he covered the
glareshield (top only) with a very thin black carpet. It was attached
with double-sided carpet tape. Second, the edge was covered with 3/4"
semi-rigid tubing. He next covered the tubing with piping insulation
from a hardware store. The insulation was then covered with fabric to
match the interior. Finally. holes were drilled through the glare
shield along the edge of the insulation and a leather tie was used to
lash the assembly in place. This method is commonly used aroung the
cockpits of open biplanes.
Robert Miller
rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com
504-455-1670
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Immelmann(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
<< Green is quite likely better than red as a "most visible"
candidate.........in
the lab.
But defenseless frogs are green for camoflage against the lily pad and red
frogs
are poisonous so you won't confuse them with their green buddies.
Still, those horrid green fire trucks are more visible than red ones, >>
If I go down in the woods or in the snow, I'd rather not have them searching
for a green or a white airplane.
A friend of mine painted his Comanche "Federal Safety Orange" - it was so
day-glo that you couldn't hardly look at it. Once we were flying up the
Little Colorado River canyon towards Cameron, AZ and he turned to me and
asked me if I'd ever flown under a bridge. I told him " You do what you want,
but remember that your'e flying the most recognizable airplane in the 11
western states."
We pulled up and out of the canyon before we got to town. He eventually got
around to painting a chocolate stripe on it, and it really looked pretty
nice.
Ed "I like 'em Red" Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
<< BTW the CTE for 6061 aluminum is 13.7 x 10 e-6.
mea culpa, mea culpa,
-Elon >>
Sooo, If you made an aluminum fixture, it wouldn't matter how cold, or hot,
it got. The aluminum wing and fixture would contract, or expand, by the same
amount. :-)
Or does the fixture need to be built from 2024-T3511 (wing spar extrusion
material) to exactly match the Thermal Coeffecient of Expansion. ;-)
BTW, I built my RV-3 wings on a wood frame. IMHO, It's more important to
rivet the wing leading edge skin and the first side of the center section
skin onto the frame by "halving the space". This prevents a twist from being
generated (even in a perfect frame) when riveting is done from one end of the
wing to the other end of the wing.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Question |
>
>Listers,
>
>
>
>Now here's the problem. The 40 amp Potter Brumfield breaker has 8-32
>terminals. A 40 amp breaker should be sized with 8 gauge wire. There does
>not appear to be any terminals available to connect an 8 gauge wire to an
>8-32 terminal. I've checked Wicks, ASS and even Mousser. The closest that
>I've come is Mousser who has 8-32 ring terminals for 10 gauge wire.
>
>Any suggestions on how to make this connection? I've thought about pulling
>two 10 gauge leads from the master solenoid to the 40 amp breaker. I'm not
>sure how wise this would be though.
>
My call is to use 10 gauge wire instead of the 8 gauge. In free air 10
gauge can easily handle the extra 10 amps load. If you have a direct short
it'll kick out the CB anyway.
For example, I used 12 gauge wire for my 35 amp alternator. I've never seen
30 amps for more than 30 seconds.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor heat |
Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> wrote:
> Use that carb heat lever.
I used to have the terrible habit of forgetting to pull on the carb heat
each time I pulled the throttle back. My solution was to add it to my
pre-landing checklist (The GUMP stuff) and do it no matter what the power
setting.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DImpling skins |
Now that my dimpling days are almost over (The only skin I have not
installed is the forward top fuselage skin), I thought I would pass along
my results:
I've used several different hammers, and placed the Avery C-frame on
several different surfaces. I get my best-looking dimples when I use a
16oz ball-peen hammer and with the Avery C-frame sitting on the concrete
garage floor. Three medium whacks with the hammer does it.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
Installing empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices |
Hi Jeff,
Liked your explanation of the three-threads phenomenon.
But (don't you just love that), as to the tighten-the-bolt-or-tighten-the-nut
controversy, if the bolt shank is free, then turning the nut and holding the
bolt head should induce the same torsion into the bolt shank as turning the bolt
head and holding the nut.
F'rinstance, in the stationary bolt head scenario, the only relative motion is
at the thread interface and at the nut/washer interface. In the stationary nut
scenario, the relative motion is again at the thread interface but the second
motion is now at the bolt head/washer interface.
Or did it sleep through that class? S'possible, yawn.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices |
Hi John,
Regarding the right side up for washers.
Smooth side to smooth side. Yep. But as to the radius at the edge of the
washer, that's a left over from the days of cheap punch/die combinations for
making cheap washers. Too much clearance between the punch and die and the
material rounded over. And doyou remember older nuts off of British
motorcycles? They had a top and bottom, too. Seems the tooling to part them
off of the stock just radiused one side and not the other.
But I'll bet you'll get a better bolt up by lubricating the threads and using a
torque wrench than you will by worrying about the right side of a
washer......unless you're buying really cheap hardware which I'm sure you aren't
because people who buy cheap hardware don't examine it for the best side.
I'll fly with you any day!
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: powder coating |
John,
Yer absoposilutely correct re. powder coat/annealing of steel. I did not intend
to imply that powder coating would in any way alter the state of temper in the
steel. Temperature is much too low to affect steel.
A clear powder coat!!!!! Now that sounds very interesting. I'll go check into
it. Sounds a great idea all around.
Thanks for correction
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bubba Joe <Bubbajoe(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I am down to the few final details of finishing my 6A ( YEH !)
>
> Does anybody have any ideas on how to make a glare shield bumper, so that
> the chances of cutting a face in a quick stop can be minimized.
>
> The only thing I can think of it to take a hose, cut it up the middle, and
> slip it over the glareshield edge. But this would look extremely ugly. How
> could you dress that up.
>
> Also, I am wondering whether I should paint the top surface of the
> glareshield black or put a black material over it. It seems it may be hard
> to get material to lay flat and not wrinkle. Any comments on what worked for
> you would be greatly appreicated.
>
> Thanks to all who respond
>
> Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
>
Try using the garden hose on it.I would put foam inside the hose and
then cover it with some type of leather,like the old open cockpit planes
used around their openings.My 2 cents only!! Thnx and good luck!!
R. Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor heat |
>
>Lessons I shoulda remembered from ground school 101
>
>My composure was not aided, to say the least, having the engine go sputter,
pop,
>sputter, pop etc. at 400 ft. agl on a long downwind.
>
>And then go Bleagh pop sputter when I turned on the Carb heat at 350'.
>
>300' and she started smoothing out
>
>On the ground did a runup to 2000 rpm, left mag, right mag, both.......runs
>fine?!?!?!?
>
>Into the hanger, cowl off, crawl all over the place, pull the gascolator
>(clean), look at the exhaust, (shrug), have a Coke and consider what happened,
>what did I do, what happened then.
>
>Answer: Ice. 65 deg. high humidity. ( ATIS gave dew point but I don't
>remember now what it was.) Long descent, and the problem started when a touch
>of power was added because the tower asked for an extended downwind leg.
>
>Lesson here for all of us, folks. It can happen and it doesn't have to be cold
>outside! Use that carb heat lever.
>
>Bob Fritz
Bob, It isn't the dew point that does it. I have been told that as the air
passes through the carby (down under lingo for carb), it looses between 30
and 35 degrees F as part of the process of mixing with the gas. This makes
65 F the most likely temp to have carb ice. Doesn't sound correct, but it
is. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Scott;
Not that it's perfect or that it is the best way, but here's my input.
>Does anybody have any ideas on how to make a glare shield bumper, so that
>the chances of cutting a face in a quick stop can be minimized.
I used a piece of the soft alum tubing, used the die grinder to cut a slot
in one side length wise, formed it over the sharp edge, used two or four
fabricated bands to clamp it on. Then a small plastic tube cut the same way
and then a larger plastic tube the same. The tubing I used happened to be
fabric webb reinforced, used for vacuum lines in dairies, so it is pretty
substantial. Then over that stuff I got a black steering wheel cover (sort
of like leather with a grain and small holes punched in it, from Walmart)
and contact cemented it over all of that tubing. It amy not be as soft as
some, but I don't think the sharp edge will cut through all of that, and it
may bruise my hard head, but I am gambling that I would survive the impact.
I didn't bind it on with plastic gimp like some I've seen, nothing against
that, I just didn't do it.
>The only thing I can think of it to take a hose, cut it up the middle, and
>slip it over the glareshield edge. But this would look extremely ugly. How
>could you dress that up.
>
>Also, I am wondering whether I should paint the top surface of the
>glareshield black or put a black material over it. It seems it may be hard
>to get material to lay flat and not wrinkle. Any comments on what worked for
>you would be greatly appreicated.
I used nugahyde, black, with perforations, very much like the steering wheel
covers. It is on an elastic backing. Got it from an auto upholstery out
fit. Had a devil of a time cutting and fitting butcher paper to the top,
but once the paper fit flat, I used it as a pattern and cut out the
nugahyde. Just lays in there. It comes in many colors, is color fast etc.
Does get a little supple when the hot sun is on it. But once the sun melted
my PropTach (looked like a Salvadore Dalli painting) but the shield just lay
there and took it.
I have seen at least one with nothing but a strip of rubber trim over the
edge, sort of like the car door edge guards.
>Thanks to all who respond
You're welcome. Hope it at least gives you some ideas.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg wobble/bolting practices |
>
>Bill, While we are on the subject of "Bolting Practices", could you expalin
>why we use washers at all ?
>I know this is pretty basic - but most of us are not engineers.
>John C-GDOC, almost ready to paint.
Why do we use washers? Probably because Vans sent the wrong length bolt and
the only way to tighten the laminations is to install some washers.
One legitimate reason is to be able to turn the nut without removing the
protective finish on the part the nut is turning against. If the nut digs
into a washer and corrosion starts in 20 or 30 years, you can just change
the nut and washer.
The second legitimate reason would be that the threaded portion of a bolt
should begin after the bolt exits the hole (especially if the bolt is being
used in shear). In this condition, the nut would bottom out on the shank of
the bolt without compressing the material it is trying to hold together.
Probably more reasons! Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice Desperately For A DAR on RV's |
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I got depressing news today from my FAA inspector. My plane will be ready
> for inspection in 10 days. He has informed me that he can't do it until the
> end of March or later.
>
> I am on vacation this month and would like to use some of this time to fly
> the 40 hours off in the test area.
>
> Does anybody know of a good DAR that I could possibly contact ( I would be
> willing to pay their travel expenses ). The two the FAA have given me in
> the Chicago area have not gotten very good marks from other RV builders who
> have used them in the area. They took longer than the FAA in getting around
> to doing the inspection and completing the paper work.
>
> I am so eager to fly, that I request somebody take my key if I can't get
> this inspected before then. My dark side is beginning to speak loudly to me
> about flying before that without ...
>
> Desperate Scott in Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Answer to Question=== NAME = ED HASCH DAR
TEL # 615-824-4704
ED HAS HIS OWN RV6
TEL #615-824-4704
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
| Subject: | Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:48:24 -0600 |
I would like to know if an ELT is required in an experimental aircraft?
Thank you
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: powder coating |
<< have it powder-coated using a CLEAR coat. >>
Elon Ormsby,
I'm interested. Do you have any specifications on the "Clear Coat"?
and join the AWS and get certified. Sounds like you have an aptitude for
welding.
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
> The only thing I can think of it to take a hose, cut it up the middle, and
>slip it over the glareshield edge. But this would look extremely ugly. How
>could you dress that up.
> Also, I am wondering whether I should paint the top surface of the
>glareshield black or put a black material over it. It seems it may be hard
>Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Scott,
The split hose idea works very well. I used a hose off an old back pack
sprayer (a little smaller diameter than a garden hose) and split it. I got
some free, black leather from a friend and wrapped it around the hose,
tucking the edges into the slit after applying a little rtv to the leather.
I put a few more dabs of rtv on the slit and slid the hose onto the edge of
the glare shield.
I painted the glare shidle flat black. This has an advantage (over fabric
covering) that I just put to use: The portable 920+ GPS antenna that
attaches with suction cups to the canopy was always falling off. I now have
it suctioned to the glare shield and, with the help of gravity, it has
stayed in place.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net> |
> LesDrag(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Sooo, If you made an aluminum fixture, it wouldn't matter how cold, or hot,
> it got. The aluminum wing and fixture would contract, or expand, by the same
> amount. :-)
>
> Or does the fixture need to be built from 2024-T3511 (wing spar extrusion
> material) to exactly match the Thermal Coeffecient of Expansion. ;-)
>
Well actually I am using a Frey jib in a heated and air-condtioned
garage. Its always 70 degrees (even when it's -10 in the sunny chicago
area). I hope I don't have to worry about steel warping due to the
humidity :)
Don Mack
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Rivet comments, thanks |
----------
From: Patrick Kelley[SMTP:mail.ic.net!patk(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 1997 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: FW: RV-List: Rivet comments, thanks
cyberbury.net!Martinph(at)matronics.com wrote:
>>I could easily be wrong, because my only riveting experience is with my
kit, but I thought the spring was an IMPORTANT safety device to prevent
a flying set should the trigger be pressed while the set is not placed
against the work. Not having tried the obvious experiment, I have no
idea how fast the set would leave the gun, but my mental picture is
horrifying.<<
PatK - RV-6A
Experience speaks:
My spring unwound, and I launched a mushroom set across the room. It would hit
with enough force
to put a serious dent in your wing skin, blast a fluorescent light, or knock the
picture tube out of your TV set.
Luckily, it missed all in my shop. I now wrap tape around the end of the gun before
screwing on the spring.
Also, I try to use the beehive spring for any set that fits through it....if I
anticipate not having to change back and
forth between the mushroom and other sets. I cringe to think about the dent it
would make in a wing
skin if it decided to let go just inches away. Treat it like a LOADED GUN.
All ya gotta do is pick it up wrong and.....%$#@!
I also have the problem of owning a second, non-standard gun (D-K brand, DV-48)
that takes a smaller diameter
spring. The threaded area for the beehive is 1" instead of the common 1-1/8" found
in all the catalogs. I had to
heat up, tighten up, and re-quench a larger spring to fit it, otherwise the 1-1/8"
springs would just fall off. Anyone
know of a source for beehives or quick change springs for a D-K riveter?
Darrell Anderson
RV-4, wings, tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian McShurley <bmcshurley(at)www.sfgate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:48:24 -0600 |
If you have two or more seats....YES by FAR's.
If you have one or more seats....YES by Common sense.
Either way, it is cheap insurance in case of a mishap.
Just my $.01 worth
Brian McShurley
bmcshurley(at)www.sfgate.com
S-51D, N514BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices |
>Hi John,
>
>Regarding the right side up for washers.
>
>Smooth side to smooth side. Yep. But as to the radius at the edge of the
>washer, that's a left over from the days of cheap punch/die combinations for
>making cheap washers. Too much clearance between the punch and die and the
>material rounded over. And doyou remember older nuts off of British
>motorcycles? They had a top and bottom, too. Seems the tooling to part them
>off of the stock just radiused one side and not the other.
>
>torque wrench than you will by worrying about the right side of a
>washer......unless you're buying really cheap hardware which I'm sure you
aren't
>because people who buy cheap hardware don't examine it for the best side.
>
Bob,
.. look closely, every one of my AN960 washers from Vans (and all
other suppliers) has a side with a rounded edge, and a side with sharp edge.
It's not cheap hardware, it's AN hardware ...:^)
... and yes, I always put the radiused side on the airframe side.
... Gil (it's really an MS part number) Alexander
RV6A, #20701, N64GA (rsvd.) ... propeller (Sensenich) arrived to-day!
>
>Bob Fritz
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------
gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold pressure gauge. |
Several months ago I was asked to discuss why I felt a Manifold Pressure
(mp) gauge was desirable in an application
with a fixed pitch prop. I have agonized over this question because I
wanted to paint a clear picture and not just give an
emotional or company line answer, so here goes:
The manifold pressure gauge! What is it measuring? How responsive is it to
control input? What outside factors affect
the reading? These are all questions that the next few paragraphs will
elaborate on.
Most of us have looked in a carburetor and seen the butterfly valve which
the throttle controls. When an engine is given
full throttle, the butterfly valve opens up and the engine is presented
with the full atmospheric pressure through the
induction system plus possibly a little ram effect from the forward velocity
of the aircraft through the air. Of course
there are factors working against us! As the air progresses from the input
through the filter and makes all the bends
required to get into the engine, a certain amount of turbulence and drag
will reduce the available amount of pressure to
the engine. If we were to measure the pressure at the intake valve at sea
level with the engine not operating we would
see about 30 to 32 inches of pressure, the same as the barometric pressure
(but only when at sea level). This is exactly
what the manifold pressure will read at sea level with a full throttle
take-off. If we are at some altitude other than sea
level, the manifold pressure will decrease by one inch per thousand feet of
altitude. When the throttle is pulled back,
the butterfly valve restricts the movement of the air and the engine has to
suck the air through the induction system. The
manifold pressure gauge then indicates less than atmospheric pressure, and
the engine produces less power. Thus there
is a direct relation between throttle setting and manifold pressure.
As we change the throttle position the engine develops a different amount of
power. The prop is absorbing this power
and trying to turn faster or slower, however the velocity of the air
through the prop is trying to keep the prop turning at
a speed proportional to the velocity of the aircraft. The air is acting
like a non-compressible fluid and actually drives the
prop. Eventually the aircraft speed will come to equilibrium with the
amount of power being created by the engine and
the prop will be turning at an RPM proportional to this speed, assuming we
have been at a constant altitude throughout
this whole exercise, and we can observe the RPM and determine what power
the engine is producing. If we had
observed the manifold pressure when we changed the throttle setting, we
could have determined our power level
immediately without waiting for the aircraft to change speed and balance out
with the power being produced by the
engine.
What are some typical manifold pressure readings? Once again, this would
be at sea level and with a constant speed
prop. On take-off, use full throttle and 2700 rpm until a climb speed of
100 to 120 mph is established, then back off to
25" mp, 2500 rpm. Since the fixed pitch prop is going to spin at its own
rate, I would adjust the manifold pressure up
1" above the 25 " mark for each 100 rpm the prop is turning below the 2500
mark. Typically a fixed pitch prop will
turn about 2300 to 2400 rpm on climb so I would set the throttle at 26 to 27
inches, and add a little throttle as you gain
altitude to keep the mp reading constant. Once a cruising altitude is
reached, set the manifold pressure between 22 and
25 inches and the prop will turn at a speed proportional to your airspeed.
Now lets start our descent to land. As we let the nose drop below the
horizon with no throttle change, the speed
increases and the RPMs increase. Initially the manifold pressure remains
the same but it appears the power has increased
since the RPMs have increased. As we retard the throttle, there is no
direct RPM change with the throttle position.
However the manifold pressure changes directly and immediately as the
throttle changes. As the descent continues, the
atmospheric air pressure increases by one inch per thousand feet of
altitude. With a manifold pressure gauge, the pilot
will observe this change and can continue to retard the throttle maintaining
nearly a constant power without fear of shock
cooling the engine. As long as the manifold pressure is indicating within a
range of 20 to 25 inches, the engine is
producing power and will not experience shock cooling.
Obviously the values given above are dependent on the prop, however, they
will be typically within the range given.
Once you have developed a feel for manifold pressure readings, you will
almost exclusively use the mp gauge as a
device for setting the throttle (power) independent of the type of prop
being used and the RPMs will merely be an
indicator of your pitch attitude.
Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Scott,
Look at a grey PVC type piping at Home Base. It is about 5/8th
inch in diameter and is in a roll rather than straight lengths I think.
A couple of my RV6 buddies are using it. It looks quite nice.
Ron Vandervort,RV-6Q, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike atkinson <mikeatk(at)primenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
Elon Ormsby wrote:
>=20
> =3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: Elon Ormsby
>=20
> Tim Bronson wrote:
> Has anyone out there done any research on what paint colors and designs
> offer best overall visibility
> ________________________
>=20
> There were a lots of very good suggestions about what color scheme to
> use. Also good information about contrasting colors against a particula=
r
> background. However, I did not see anything about the color green. I
> know this sounds like absolute heresy and runs counter to all of the
> day-glow-orange Coast Guard planes and of course the traditional red (o=
r
> orange) hunting jackets BUT of all of the colors in the visible
> spectrum, the human eye detects the color green better than any other
> color. Specifically, the wave length at 5145 angstrom (500-520 microns=
)
> is perceived by the eye better than anything else. What I mean is unde=
r
> EQUAL light conditions and equal REFLECTIVITY - if you put a green
> jacket and a red jacket on two individuals and have them walk out of
> sight the red jacket will disappear before you stop seeing the green
> one. I know it runs counter to conventional thinking & I also can=92t
> remember my source. Just offering this as another data point for your
> consideration.
> -Elon
Dear Elon,
I do believe yellow is the color that can be detected from the furthest
distance, also green tends to blend in with the vegetation or trees in
the warmer months.
Mike Atkinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Scott, I went to the local Auto Trim Shop and bought some black flexible
trim. It was reinforced with metal and covered with thick vinyl. It just
slips on over the metal glare shield and locks itself in place. As far as
the top of the glare shield goes, I used the same material that I used for
the rest of the interior. I covered the windshield with paper and sprayed
3-M fabric adhesive on the glare shield. Then I simply laid the fabric on
the glare shield. This worked good for me and it never came loose in the
heat. Do this before installing the Trim Strip.
Dave D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DICKLRV6A(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice Desperately For A DAR on RV's |
Desparate Scott in Chicago,
Neil Pobanz is a D.A.R. that can be found almost daily at the Marshall County
Airport. (Lacon Il.) Home phone ans. mach: 309-755-1392 Airport:
309-246-3700.
Good Luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice Desperately For A DAR on RV's |
Ask the FAA MIDO (Manufacturing Inspection District Office) to designate a
local FSDO (Filght Standards District Office) near you as the inspecting
authority. There are a lot more FSDO's than there are MIDO's. FSDO's used
to do the inspections but lost a turf war to the MIDO's. Now that the FAA
budget is stretched to the breaking point, the MIDO's do not have the funds
to travel to do the inspections. I ran into this same problem in December
and was told by the MIDO in Kansas City that they couldn't come to St. Louis
because they did not have the funds for travel. I then asked them if the
local FSDO in St. Louis could do the inspection like they did when I finished
my Sea Hawker. They said yes, and less than a week later I had my Air
Worthiness Certificate. Now, if the weather would just cooperate, I'll get
some air under the wheels.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BillAkin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:48:24 -0600 |
YES!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices |
On Feb 3, 8:24pm, Robert Fritz wrote:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting practices
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> Liked your explanation of the three-threads phenomenon.
>
> But (don't you just love that), as to the tighten-the-bolt-or-tighten-the-nut
> controversy, if the bolt shank is free, then turning the nut and holding the
> bolt head should induce the same torsion into the bolt shank as turning the
bolt
> head and holding the nut.
>
> F'rinstance, in the stationary bolt head scenario, the only relative motion
is
> at the thread interface and at the nut/washer interface. In the stationary
nut
> scenario, the relative motion is again at the thread interface but the second
> motion is now at the bolt head/washer interface.
>
> Or did it sleep through that class? S'possible, yawn.
>
>
> Bob Fritz
>-- End of excerpt from Robert Fritz
Bob, Good comment
It is good to see people take time to read and think about postings. In
response to your question, I stated for a given torque, be it applied to the
nut or to the bolt, the joint will develop a given amount of tension. Tension
is the key here - not torque. If you torque the bolt, you rotate the bolt head
which rotates against the mating surface. This reacts a % of the applied
torque due to the interface friction. Next, the torque that is left twists the
bolt (Tr/JG). The longer the bolt the greater the angle of twist for a given
torque. The twist in the bolt does not help in generating clampload. If the
bolt were not to twist (infinitely stiff), the bolt would turn, advancing into
the nut - generating additional clampload. Now there is also friction at the
interface of the nut and then the reaction torque at the nut. It is the
twisting of the bolt that causes reduced tension in the joint + the fact that
you are turning the bolt farther for a given amount of tension increases
frictional losses.
The best way to determine the tension in a joint is to measure bolt elongation.
Elongation=(Preload*length)/(crosssectional Area*Modulus of Elasticity)
This can be done with a good "very good" set of calipers or better yet using
ultrasonic measuring equipment.
If anyone is interested I can post the equations required to calculate preload
for both nut and bolt torquing.
Side note: Many of the fasteners used in Aircraft are not used in tension and
preload is not important. Preload is important only to joints that are loaded
along the axis of the bolt. In shear joints - bolt dia. is the control. That
is why we use safety wire and pins to hold the nuts on - instead of clampload.
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Senior Research Engineer
Advance Vehicle Technology
Ford Motor Company
Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | bolting practices |
.. look closely, every one of my AN960 washers from Vans (and all
other suppliers) has a side with a rounded edge, and a side with sharp edge.
It's not cheap hardware, it's AN hardware ...:^)
... and yes, I always put the radiused side on the airframe side.
... Gil (it's really an MS part number) Alexander
Is it rounded or CHAMFERED edges that are being discussed? If it is
a washer with a chamfered (beveled) inside diameter that is specified
for a certain application, the washer is installed with the chamfer toward
the head of the bolt, to correspond with the radius where the bolt head
meets the shank. These special washers are visibly chamfered to about 1/2
the thickness of the washer. I've encountered them in high stress areas:
wheel lug bolts, driveshaft attach bolts, etc., not the usual AN3 stuff.
Darrell Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Bubba Joe wrote:
>
>
> Scott Johnson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am down to the few final details of finishing my 6A ( YEH !)
> >
> > Does anybody have any ideas on how to make a glare shield bumper, so that
> > the chances of cutting a face in a quick stop can be minimized.
> >
Try an auto windshield repair shop. I was able to find a plastic
C-channel that is used in interior edging. It has internal barbs to lock
on to the edge. Also has integral metal sheathing, which would stop that
sharp glare shield edge from poking through on impact.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Scott,
I installed a small (1/4") rubber hose on the edge of the glare shield. I
covered the entire glare shield with a black vinyl material that I had double
stiched along the edge that faces the pilot (where the split rubber tubing is
located). I covered the entire top of the glare shield and wrapped the vinyl
around past the first aluminum tube on the underneath(flip up canopy). First
I padded the entire glare shield with a very dense 1/8" foam. This first
layer was cut to fit around the canopy, rubber and aluminum tubing. I used
3M spray contact cement to lay the first layer of foam on the shield. I cut
the vinyl to the correct size and glued the second layer of foam to the
vinyl. I installed the second piece of foam in one large piece. I wanted
the vinyl to be stiffened by this second layer before I installed it and also
wanted the foam to wrap around the rubber tubing. I then used the same
contact cement to installed the vinyl/foam directly to the glare shield. It
is important to stiffen the vinyl with the foam before you glue it to the
shield. I tried without first and wasn't at all satisfied with the results.
This may be a bit confusing. Call me if you need some clarification.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Lycoming-electronic igntion/fuel injection |
Dan, I am thinking about electronic ignition. Could you post some
information on the time it took to install, and how difficult was it ? I
understand that the fly wheel has to be drilled, or marked ?
John C-GDOC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge. |
Thanks, Bill.
That is the best explanation of Manifold Pressure I have seen.
John C-GDOC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Terra Transponder |
Not specifically RV related, but...I've had a Terra transponder and
encoder for my '6A on order from Aircraft Spruce since before
Christmas, having been given a January dlivery date of back ordered
transponders.
I'm now being told by Spruce that they won't get transponders until the
end of March...another delay of two months.
I'm wondering if this is a sign of something else! Anyone know why?
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: powder coating |
Try white or lite gray the cracks will show up just fine! If it cracks it
will open up enough to show you a fretting line. You will see something
resembling a pencil line.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
General aircraft question, not RV specific.
I have a 1946 Luscombe 8A with non-shielded ignition (Eisemann mags) I would
like to convert to shielded. Do I need to replace the Mags or is there another
way..
One comment on the corrosion issue (to prime or not to prime). My Luscombe is
50 years old and has no primer anywhere. There is also no corrosion. It
has
been located in the Northeast to North central US most of it's life.
I am not sure why my RV is being primed - I guess I want it to be able to pass
it to my grand grand children.
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Senior Research Engineer
Advance Vehicle Technology
Ford Motor Company
Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM (Scott Fink) |
| Subject: | Nipendeso Alt. charge problems |
John,
I just saw that problem in my PA28-140 (I have to have something to
fly while I build the RV!). The maintainence manual says the problem
is usually in the field circuit to the alternator, and to jumper
around the overvoltage relay, field circuit breaker, and alternator
side of the master switch. Jumpering the master stopped the wiggle on
my alt guage. I am waiting for a new switch now but look forward to
flying with a steady needle and less noise in the headset.
Scott Fink RV-6
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nipendeso Alt. charge problems
Date: 11/24/96 8:37 AM
>>Have a small problem with the charging system vans setup.
>> ANY POINTERS ??????
>>THANKS
>>JOHN MCMAHON RV-6
>
John; For what it's worth. I have the same problem. The alt. needle
appears to be very 'nervous' at times and will vibrate rather rapidly (2-3
times per sec.) but does not do it all of the time. A load seems to slow it
down some, but at other times it stops on its own. I have a Ford 65 amp alt
with a Ford transit. adj. regulator. The battery is one for a wheel chair,
gelcell. The system has been up and running for almost three years now,
plus almost 6 months before flying. Still strong. I have become accustomed
to it's vibration, but it doesn't please me. I can hear a tic in the
headset when at idle, and the tic seems to be the same pulse as the
vibration. Volts don't vary.
Each time I feel about ready to pull the alt. and have it bench checked, the
next two or three flights, the damned thing is steady as a rock. Gremlins?
If I put a load, like the landing light, on, the magnitude of the vibration
is dampened, but not the frequency.
I know this doesn't help you solve your problem, but at least, don't feel
alone. I'm looking forward to someone coming up with an answer to you and
maybe helping me as well.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra Transponder |
I know that Terra was bought out by Trimble and the factory was being
moved here to Austin Tx. That probably slowed things down at some point.
Don't know if that is the exact reason or not however, just a guess.
Herman
>
> Not specifically RV related, but...I've had a Terra transponder and
> encoder for my '6A on order from Aircraft Spruce since before
> Christmas, having been given a January dlivery date of back ordered
> transponders.
> I'm now being told by Spruce that they won't get transponders until the
> end of March...another delay of two months.
>
> I'm wondering if this is a sign of something else! Anyone know why?
>
> Ken
> RV6A Flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure gauge. |
>
>Thanks, Bill.
>That is the best explanation of Manifold Pressure I have seen.
>John C-GDOC
I concur...thanks Bill. I'll be installing one.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker
(last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor heat |
Yo Bill,
Yer right. It's not the dew point, per se, that led to the icing. I meant to
say that it was a very humid day. As to the temperature drop, the acceleration
of the air through the venturi causes a pressure drop which causes a temperature
drop. Throw in the evaporation of the fuel and, per my groundschool handbook,
you can get a 70F drop.
Regardless of my sloppy physics, the point remains: the grim reaper likes
complacent people.
Besides, you guys in Aussieland have the toilets spining the opposite direction
and winter in July. I thought your carby heated up :-)
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices/bolts held in shear |
I beg to politely differ re. the issue of washers being something to keep the
threads from coming in contact with the plates being held together. The Major
diameter of the thread, that diameter you'd measure with an ordinary o.d.
micrometer is less that the diameter of the shank of the bolt. At least in a
normal bolt.
That being the case, the only way the threads could contact the plates would be
for the threaded section to be long enough to cross from one plate to the other
and then have the two plates out of alignment. And that is really using the
wrong bolt.
And again I must emphasize that bolts are for clamping, not resisting shear
loads. If the clamping pressure is not enough to resist shear motion, then
either the bolt is too loose or it is underdesigned.
If you want to resist shear loads with a cross-pin system don't use a bolt. It
was suggested a couple of days ago that a Brown and Sharpe taper pin with
threads on one end is the proper technique. I'm not familiar with these but
they sure sound like the right idea.
Most non-flamingly
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Watson" <gtwatson(at)students.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: 1997 Twin Cities RV Forum |
I'm interested in attending, please send me some more information.
Thanks,
Glen Watson
----------
> From: Doug Weiler <mail.pressenter.com!dougweil(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 1997 Twin Cities RV Forum
> Date: Thursday, January 09, 1997 10:00 AM
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Just a quick notice that a date has been established for the 3rd Annual
Twin
> Cities RV Builder's Forum.
>
> This will be held Sat. April 19, 1997 at St. Paul Downtowm Airport, St.
> Paul, MN . Our format is a day-long event with RVs on display inside a
> beautiful corporate hangar, speakers on RV topics, vendors, lots of door
> prizes, a fly market, a sheet metal workshop (last year we assembled an
RV-6
> vertical stab in 6 hours and gave it away as our grand prize). Van's
> aircraft will be represented by Bill Benedict. In the evening, a banquet
is
> planned with Larry Vetterman (of High-Country Exhaust fame ) as our guest
> speaker.
>
> Bring the kids, bring the wife (we are planning a shopping excursion to
the
> Mall of America) for a day of RV fun.
>
> E-mail me directly and I'll put you on our mailing list for further info.
>
> Doug Weiler, MN Wing, Van's AirForce
>
>
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
> = Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
> = 347 Krattley Lane
> = Hudson, WI 54016
> = 715-386-1239
> = email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
>
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Bronson <70773.2700(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | More paint schemes |
First of all, thanks to all of you who replied to my question about paint
schemes. Lots of good points were brought up, and the frog discussion was most
interesting. Why do you suppose there are no bare metal frogs found in nature?
Regarding bare metal, is there any kind of clear coating that can be put on bare
aluminum, or does one commit to a lifetime of polishing to keep that shiny metal
shiny? A friend has a bare metal Cessna 195 (beautiful) that he claims must be
eternally polished, but then he's not on the RV-list.
Thanks again, folks.
Tim Bronson Pittsburgh, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra Transponder |
>
>Not specifically RV related, but...I've had a Terra transponder and
>encoder for my '6A on order from Aircraft Spruce since before
>Christmas, having been given a January dlivery date of back ordered
>transponders.
>I'm now being told by Spruce that they won't get transponders until the
>end of March...another delay of two months.
>
>I'm wondering if this is a sign of something else! Anyone know why?
>
>Ken
>RV6A Flying
Ken, You should have bought your unit from a reliable dealer like someone
we all know. Then you would not need to worry. Actually another message
hit on the problem with Terra being bought out and moving to Texas. We were
recently told that all the current orders would be in our hands by the end
of Feb, so Spruce will probably have yours by then. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra Transponder |
>
> I know that Terra was bought out by Trimble and the factory was being
> moved here to Austin Tx. That probably slowed things down at some point.
> Don't know if that is the exact reason or not however, just a guess.
> Herman
Yes .. the Texans ( well, at least the local Texan FAA office ...:^) made
them re-certify everything under their new name (Trimble) and it took
longer than anyone expected. Several sources talked about 5 weeks to get a
new PMA on the mounting tray, an simple item with lots of service history
behind it! I guess something has to keep the paperwork growing in the FAA ...
I think they have been building while awaiting the paperwork, and
stuff should be flowing soon ( may be like your local building contractor
... it'll take two months ...:^)
Gil (ready to order a Nav/Comm) Alexander
RV6A, #20701 ... UPS delivered a nice, shiny Sensenich prop yesterday.
>>
>> Not specifically RV related, but...I've had a Terra transponder and
>> encoder for my '6A on order from Aircraft Spruce since before
>> Christmas, having been given a January dlivery date of back ordered
>> transponders.
>> I'm now being told by Spruce that they won't get transponders until the
>> end of March...another delay of two months.
>>
>> I'm wondering if this is a sign of something else! Anyone know why?
>>
>> Ken
>> RV6A Flying
>>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------
gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:48:24 -0600 |
Even if an ELT is not required, flying without one does not make any sense.
It may very well save your life if you crash. I was an Air Force advisor to
the Civil Air Patrol and I can tell you that they are a dedicated group who
will respond immediately to locate you when your ELT activates. If you don't
have an ELT and you don't file a flight plan, it may be a long time before
anyone starts looking for you if you crash in a remote area or an area where
nobody sees you go down.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Lewis <lewy(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More paint schemes |
Tim Bronson wrote:
>
>
> First of all, thanks to all of you who replied to my question about paint
> schemes. Lots of good points were brought up, and the frog discussion was most
> interesting. Why do you suppose there are no bare metal frogs found in nature?
> Regarding bare metal, is there any kind of clear coating that can be put on bare
> aluminum, or does one commit to a lifetime of polishing to keep that shiny metal
> shiny? A friend has a bare metal Cessna 195 (beautiful) that he claims must
be
> eternally polished, but then he's not on the RV-list.
>
> Thanks again, folks.
>
> Tim Bronson Pittsburgh, PA
>
>
Its not absolutely necessary for it to be polished to be beautiful,
N5450V sat on the ramp at Marysville Ca. for over twenty five years with
only a few occasional admirers to keep it company and it looked almost a
pretty as when it left the factory at Inglewood. Or maybe it come from
Dallas I forget.
--
Just an opinion mindya
-> lewy(at)pacbell.net <- pacbell.net with two L's
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terra Transponder |
Ken, This aught to tell you something about A/S. Order from a company who
deals in Avionics on a professional level. Note: Not flaming you. This is
my opinion.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Chatter Terra Transponder |
Several folk have kindly reminded me of other options that were
available for the purchase of a transponder, especially a company we've
all come to know and love (Bill!!) :-)
Being in Canada though does require a you to have a little care when
ordering from the US if you're trying to minimise costs. For example,
having a toll free number that operates from Canada saves quite a few
$$$$ when you're chasing parts...Spruce has one of them (and now also a
toll free service call number). Also, everytime a shipment is brought
across the border, we get hit for taxes and handling charges...its also
a real pain if I use someone like UPS (at least in my area). So having
a place were I can literally do one stop shopping is a real boon...(but
only if they have the part in stock ;-().
Spruce's catalog is good...its up to date and informative. I'm not sure
what version Van's is, but my last one goes back 2 or 3 years (they
seem harder to get than rocking horse doo...hint hint)
Someone told me there had been a big thread in rec.aviation.homebuilt a
while back regarding Spruce....I haven't seen it. Maybe if I had I
wouldn't have ordered from them...maybe I would.
In 5 years though, Spruce has been a reasonable supplier to me. Their
price was right on the transponder/encoder kit. Its just a pity they
can't ship one in time for my Bahamas trip!!!
Ken Transponderless 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce SkyMAp II |
Skyforce Avionics is on the Internet at: http://www.skyforce.co.uk
Stan Blanton
RV-6
Riveting fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra Transponder |
Re: Terra XPNDR delays
I believe the delays in Terra deliveries can be traced back to our friends at
the FAA along with corporate changes at Terra. After Terra was bought by Trimble
operations were moved from Albuquerque to Austin, TX. This meant that the area
offices of the FAA Terra reported to changed also. While the FAA office in
Albuquerque had been willing to work with Terra the new office in Ft. Worth(?)
has been much stricter. This, along with Terra's efforts to win TSO approval for
the nav and com units has really held up shipments. Even though the XPNDR is
already TSO'd I believe new documents have to be obtained when the manufacturing
facilities are moved.
Most of the above comes from recent discussons I have had with Terra. I have
delt with a gentleman named Will Guy @ 1-888-359-8372 who has been VERY
helpful.
Stan Blanton
Lubbock, TX
RV-6
Riveting fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry WARD <ward(at)axime.com> |
| Subject: | Michel Jouls RV6 |
Hal and others who may be interested.
In reply to your request for info on Michels Jaoul's RV6 here are some more
detailes.
RV6 with Sliding canopy. Engine Lyc O360 A1A fitted with Hartzel C/S Prop.
Empty weight of plane is 1056 lbs unpainted. (estimated extra 20 pounds when
painted.)
Plane has basic IFR instruments ie. DG + horizon etc. NavCom Transponder GPS
and electric elevator trim. Battery is mounted in standard position under
the instrument panel.
>From Michels calculations, which ever way you load the plane ie. full fuel,
max weight in bagage compartment, 2 people etc. The max weight will be
exceeded without exeeding the fore or aft CG limits. He does consider the
plane to be slightly nose heavy and moving the battery to the rear of the
baggage compartment could be considered, if like him, you are interested in
aerobatics.
He has recently carried out some fairly well run flight tests and the
results are the following.
Density altitude 8300 ft; MP=21in 2500 RPM 166 Kt
2300 RPM 163 Kt
2100 RPM 160 Kt
1900 RPM 158 Kt
Density altitude 5700ft MP=23.5in 2500 RPM 170 Kt
2300 RPM 165 Kt
2100 RPM 162 Kt
1900 RPM 158 Kt
Ground speed was done on a triangle course and values obtained by GPS.
Michel is probably one of the most experienced RV builders in France having
built from plans an RV 4 over 10 years ago ( can you imagine, cut and bend
your own aluminium, no pre punched holes!!) He has also participated in 5 or
6 othe RV projects.
Barry Ward ward(at)axime.com RV6A working on wings and fuselage. O360 A1A and
C/S Prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
While kicking around whether or not to put in an ELT I saw a unit on the Ivo
Prop home page, actually Ivo Prop is just one of the items featured, it
plugs into your I-com handheld transceiver and broadcasts continually just
like and ELT. It only costs $49.00. Sounds like a good addition for those
that have not installed a beacon, of course you must be physically able to
activate it after an emergency.
Eric Henson
Dana Point, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
> Does anybody have any ideas on how to make a glare shield bumper, so that
> the chances of cutting a face in a quick stop can be minimized.
>
> The only thing I can think of it to take a hose, cut it up the middle, and
> slip it over the glareshield edge. But this would look extremely ugly. How
> could you dress that up.
>
> Also, I am wondering whether I should paint the top surface of the
> glareshield black or put a black material over it.
I wasn't crazy about that sharp edge so close to my face either. I used
black automobile door edge molding on the edge. It's much smaller than hose,
and it has it's own light adhesive to hold it on. I used to be a distributor
for such products and I had a 30' roll laying around. You can get this stuff
at auto parts houses, but it usually only comes in about 3' lengths, so you
may have to make a splice in it.
If you wanted a single piece, you could try looking under "automobile
customizing" in the yellow pages and call companies that specialize in
pinstriping and body accessories. They would probably sell you a section in
the size you need.
I would definately put something on that top piece or you will get blinded by
the reflection. I used flat black Marhyde and it worked very well. It
leaves a slight crinkle finish that is very durable and pleasing.
Sounds like you're getting close, keep us posted!
Ed Bundy RV6A #23834 N427EM - flying
Eagle, ID
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>Several folk have kindly reminded me of other options that were
>available for the purchase of a transponder, especially a company we've
>all come to know and love (Bill!!) :-)
>
>Being in Canada though does require a you to have a little care when
>ordering from the US if you're trying to minimise costs. For example,
>having a toll free number that operates from Canada saves quite a few
>$$$$ when you're chasing parts...Spruce has one of them (and now also a
>toll free service call number). Also, everytime a shipment is brought
>across the border, we get hit for taxes and handling charges...its also
>a real pain if I use someone like UPS (at least in my area). So having
>a place were I can literally do one stop shopping is a real boon...(but
>only if they have the part in stock ;-().
>
>Spruce's catalog is good...its up to date and informative. I'm not sure
>what version Van's is, but my last one goes back 2 or 3 years (they
>seem harder to get than rocking horse doo...hint hint)
>
>Someone told me there had been a big thread in rec.aviation.homebuilt a
>while back regarding Spruce....I haven't seen it. Maybe if I had I
>wouldn't have ordered from them...maybe I would.
>
>In 5 years though, Spruce has been a reasonable supplier to me. Their
>price was right on the transponder/encoder kit. Its just a pity they
>can't ship one in time for my Bahamas trip!!!
>
>Ken Transponderless 6A
Ken, I was not intending for anyone to get the impression that I was down
on Spruce. We buy a lot of items from them, and I even personally buy
items from them. I think they have done a lot for the homebuilder,
especially with their bible (I mean catalog). It is a reference that
everyone should have and should rightfully pay for it.
We are starting to work on a new catalog and will have it available before
S-'n-F. Anytime you write or call us, just ask for a catalog and we will
send them out. We are just about out at this time, so wait until March or
April.
Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks) |
| Subject: | Re: Tape-on stiffeners |
Here are the answers to a few more questions...
>>Experimenting as you are with stiffeners only seems appropriately
>>conservative. I think you made a good choice. I would, and hopefully others
on
>>the list might find your answers to the following helpful:
>>1) Is the installation temperature or humidity dependent? If so what is the
>>low/high range? Under what sort of conditions did you install the product?
3M states that 70 to 100 degrees is ideal for installation. The assembly also
needs to sit for 72 hrs. at at least 70 to flow out properly. Or, you can
heat it to 150 degrees for one hour for optimal flow out.
>>2) What is the cleaning process you mentioned?
They recommend rubbing alcohol. I used an adhesive remover to clean any
residue from removal of the plastic film, then a final wipe of alcohol. They
also recommend scuffing the surface lightly. I guess it gives the adhesive
more surface area at the microscopic level
>>3) Is there a solvent that can be used to remove the tape if there is a
>>malpositioning?
If you just touch it down, you can pull it off with a sharp tug. After it is
burnished down, it is stuck. The tape is splash resistant to many chemicals
except MEK. If you wanted to remove it without bending the metal to pieces,
you might be able to flow MEK under the tape and lift it slowly.
>>4) What is the cost of the product?
A 70 yrd roll will do 2 planes and is about $65.
>>5) Does the product have a shelf life?
One year.
>>6) Is 3M aware of your application? Would you say they sanction/approve it?
>>You know some companies will not stand behind their product in aircraft
>>applications. I'm curious to know what their position is on your use of
their
>>product in the RV.
There is a big disclaimer that is all over the product and spec sheets. I
didn't tell them what I was going to do with it, I don't think they would
really care in this small case. The stuff is used a lot in automotive to
aerospace.
>>7) Are you planning on continuing with your experimentaion of this product?
As
>>you haven't begun your elevators yet, are you maybe considering riveting
the
>>stiffeners on one side and taping the other? Or alternatively riveting say
the
>>bottom stiffeners and taping the top ones?
At this point, I plan on using it on the elevators and the ailerons. I chose
the stiffeners because of the fairly low structural forces on them and the
benefits of a smooth skin. There are probably other areas where it could be
used and I would be interested in hearing from other builders on the subject.
Dann Parks
Sunnyvale, CA
dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SDRIVERS <Sdrivers(at)cris.com> |
| Subject: | Engine selection |
Can anyone help with a description of the Lyc.O320 B3B, and it's
suitability for use in an RV4. TIA.
Stuart S Driver RV4 Builder(Wings)
sdrivers(at)cris.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
in Portland I've been to Trim-Tex who sell an incredible number of extruded
aluminum edgings, many used for the boating industry to edge
windshields,seats, etc... Might be worth a look.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tape-on stiffeners |
Dan,
I would be interested in attaching the aileron gap seal to upper wing skin
with the tape method. This area is readily accessible to check for
delamination and would be easily repaired using pop rivets, if necessary.
Les Williams
RV-6AQBME #60027 (riveting on top left wing skin)
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dann Parks
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 1997 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Tape-on stiffeners
Here are the answers to a few more questions...
>>Experimenting as you are with stiffeners only seems appropriately
>>conservative. I think you made a good choice. I would, and hopefully others
on
>>the list might find your answers to the following helpful:
>>1) Is the installation temperature or humidity dependent? If so what is the
>>low/high range? Under what sort of conditions did you install the product?
3M states that 70 to 100 degrees is ideal for installation. The assembly also
needs to sit for 72 hrs. at at least 70 to flow out properly. Or, you can
heat it to 150 degrees for one hour for optimal flow out.
>>2) What is the cleaning process you mentioned?
They recommend rubbing alcohol. I used an adhesive remover to clean any
residue from removal of the plastic film, then a final wipe of alcohol. They
also recommend scuffing the surface lightly. I guess it gives the adhesive
more surface area at the microscopic level
>>3) Is there a solvent that can be used to remove the tape if there is a
>>malpositioning?
If you just touch it down, you can pull it off with a sharp tug. After it is
burnished down, it is stuck. The tape is splash resistant to many chemicals
except MEK. If you wanted to remove it without bending the metal to pieces,
you might be able to flow MEK under the tape and lift it slowly.
>>4) What is the cost of the product?
A 70 yrd roll will do 2 planes and is about $65.
>>5) Does the product have a shelf life?
One year.
>>6) Is 3M aware of your application? Would you say they sanction/approve it?
>>You know some companies will not stand behind their product in aircraft
>>applications. I'm curious to know what their position is on your use of
their
>>product in the RV.
There is a big disclaimer that is all over the product and spec sheets. I
didn't tell them what I was going to do with it, I don't think they would
really care in this small case. The stuff is used a lot in automotive to
aerospace.
>>7) Are you planning on continuing with your experimentaion of this product?
As
>>you haven't begun your elevators yet, are you maybe considering riveting
the
>>stiffeners on one side and taping the other? Or alternatively riveting say
the
>>bottom stiffeners and taping the top ones?
At this point, I plan on using it on the elevators and the ailerons. I chose
the stiffeners because of the fairly low structural forces on them and the
benefits of a smooth skin. There are probably other areas where it could be
used and I would be interested in hearing from other builders on the subject.
Dann Parks
Sunnyvale, CA
dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | VOR/LOC/GS antenna question |
I'm about to install an antenna for my VOR/LOC/GS. I would like to mount it on
the belly in the area of the forward stick. Has anyone had any experience with
this position? I'm concerned about "shadowing" while on an ILS approach.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z 130hrs
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robbins Mitch <ROBBINM(at)chi.ntsb.gov> |
| Subject: | Engine selection |
O-320 B3B is essentially the same as an A1A with only minor changes plus
high compression ratio. I know of no anomalies preventing easy
installation on RV-4. Bendix mags. Straight mount. Originally
installed on the PA-23 apache.
----------
From: owner-rv-list[SMTP:owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 1997 3:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine selection
Can anyone help with a description of the Lyc.O320 B3B, and it's
suitability for use in an RV4. TIA.
Stuart S Driver RV4 Builder(Wings)
sdrivers(at)cris.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robbins Mitch <ROBBINM(at)chi.ntsb.gov> |
| Subject: | Engine selection |
Lycoming's publication SSP-393 "Certificated Aircraft Engines" May 1993
lists a general description of most of their engines. You should be able
to get it from Lycoming at 652 Oliver Street, Williamsport, PA 17701,
717-323-6181
----------
From: owner-rv-list[SMTP:owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 1997 3:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine selection
Can anyone help with a description of the Lyc.O320 B3B, and it's
suitability for use in an RV4. TIA.
Stuart S Driver RV4 Builder(Wings)
sdrivers(at)cris.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Terra Transponder |
I'm not in the habit of repeating private emails on a public list, but
I just had to thank someone publically for an offer made to me after I
had posted my note regarding the delay in getting my Terra transponder
from Spruce.
I received the following note from Gil Alexander. Although not
specifically RV related, I'm posting it for two reasons. One to thank
Gil in public for his offer and secondly, to show to the listers and
new builders the kind of people they can expect to associate with
during the build cycle...Thanks Gil.
Gil, I hope you don't mind me posting this
Ken RV6A Flying
Ken,
I have a brand new Terra transponder/encoder kit (about 6 months
old)
just sitting in a box with a single tray. It's the latest version with
'cursor tuning' and optional 'display blanking'. Since the warranty
doesn't start until first flight, and the card hasn't been sent in yet,
it's fully covered under Terra's 3 year warranty. I have been
accumulating
avionics/instruments on a "spread the money out" basis ...:^)
Would you like to use it, and just have Aircraft Spruce ship yours
to
me when it's delivered?? I haven't installed my engine yet, so I won't
be
needing it for a while ...:^)
... let me know ... Gil Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Michel Jouls RV6 (Flight Test Data) |
<< He has recently carried out some fairly well run flight tests and the
results are the following.
Density altitude 8300 ft; MP=21in 2500 RPM 166 Kt
2300 RPM 163 Kt
2100 RPM 160 Kt
1900 RPM 158 Kt
Density altitude 5700ft MP=23.5in 2500 RPM 170 Kt
2300 RPM 165 Kt
2100 RPM 162 Kt
1900 RPM 158 Kt
>>
This is interesting, especially in light of Bill Benidict's recent post
regarding manifold pressure gauges and power settings. The above data proves
Bills point.
Based on the above data one would assume that the subject RV-6 is faster
@5700' then 8300'. Not so. At 5700', 23.5" mp and 2500 rpm the aircraft is
producing about 75% power which yields 170kts. However, at the same RPM @
8300' the aircraft only achieves 166 kts. This is because the aircraft is
only making 65% power at this power setting. The pilot would have to
increase the rpm to 2700 rpm to produce 75% power. This would yield a cruse
speed in the neighborhood of 172kts.
It is also interesting to note that at the same power settings the aircraft
is faster at 8300' then 5700' (as it should be). Example:
5700'/23.6"mp/2300rpm (68% power) = 165kts however, 8300'/21"mp/2500rpm (65%
power) = 166kts.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine selection |
Also note that this is a "narrow deck" engine (vs the later "wide deck"
style. Not a big deal. The narrow deck uses the doubler plates at
the cyl base on the 160 HP whereas the wide deck have a thicker cylinder
base and do not need this.
As the other response indicated, this is the 'conical mount' (also
known as the straight mount). So you need to order the correct motor
mount in the finish kit. The newer Dynafocal mount is a little smoother
running (less vibration).
Herman
dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
>
>
> O-320 B3B is essentially the same as an A1A with only minor changes plus
> high compression ratio. I know of no anomalies preventing easy
> installation on RV-4. Bendix mags. Straight mount. Originally
> installed on the PA-23 apache.
> ----------
> From: owner-rv-list[SMTP:owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 1997 3:28 PM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: Engine selection
>
>
> Can anyone help with a description of the Lyc.O320 B3B, and it's
> suitability for use in an RV4. TIA.
> Stuart S Driver RV4 Builder(Wings)
> sdrivers(at)cris.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks) |
| Subject: | Re: Tape-on stiffeners |
rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes:
Dan,
I would be interested in attaching the aileron gap seal to upper wing skin
with the tape method. This area is readily accessible to check for
delamination and would be easily repaired using pop rivets, if necessary.
--
Sounds like a perfect use. Best to keep the leading edge on the inside out of
the breeze. Is this seal plastic or aluminum? Get the specs from 3M, they
might have a better adhesive formula for a plastic gap seal.
Dann Parks
Sunnyvale, CA
dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Need Advice On Phase II FAA Operating Limitation |
It was brought to my attention that after Phase I of test flying
successfully, that the limitation of flying over congested areas is not
lifted in Phase II because we have an experimental plane.
Well, that is a problem for me because I built an IFR RV6A. What am I
expected to do when flying IFR, ask the controller to route me over
uncongested areas ? Not practical.
I have heard that there are some RV friendly DAR's who will remove that
restriction in phase II where some FSDO's will not.
Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Also, I am still looking
for a DAR if anyone knows of a good one ( I'll pay travel ) who might be
available.
Thanks Very Much For All Who Respond ...
Scott Johnson / Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Proj. Status: taxi tests start next week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine selection |
>Can anyone help with a description of the Lyc.O320 B3B.....
I don't know whether this is a reposting or what, but it showed up again
this PM.
Anyway, here's what the documention I have says:
SSP-393: Certificated Engine List describes it as "same as B1A except for
7/16 inch attaching bolts and straight riser in oil sump and -32
carburetor".
The B1A is described as "same as A1A except compression ratio", which in
turn is described as Controllable propeller, 25 degree spark advance Bendix
S4LN-20 and S4LN-21 Magnetos .
So there you have it. Put it all together and you have a 160HP engine with
a 8.5: 1 compression ratio, which burns 100/100LL fuel. It has a
controllable propeller using 7/16 inch bolts, uses 25 degree spark advance
Bendix S4LN-20 and S4LN-21 Magnetos, has a straight riser in the oil sump
and -32 Caruretor. It carries a -39 suffux, whatever that means.
It was used in the Piper Apache, the Doyn and the Cessna 170, 170A and 170B
John Top #5372
(619) 549-3356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I am suppose to send a deposit on an 0320-h2ad Friday. I think it is a
good price. It is in a late 70ish 172. It has 2000 hrs since new, and
is being removed for upgrade. I used to be afraid of these engines, but
have heard more good news than bad, lately. I know the rv-4 mount will
need to be modified, and something done about the mechanical fuel pump
mounting area (cowling bubble, I think). I'm also planning on using one
of the electronic ignition systems. Does anyone want to add anything to
this, or try to talk me out of buying this engine? Please hurry if
there is something else I need to consider before I buy this engine.
Flame away!!!!! thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | constant speed prop settings |
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
My RV6A has an 0-320 (150hp) with a constant speed prop removed from a
l957 Mooney. I have very little experience with the appropriate settings for the
rpm using a constant speed prop. Any suggestions or comments
regarding the following is solicited:
Take off at full throttle results in 2700 rpm (max). After establishing climb
at about 110mph,I back off prop to 2500 rpm and throttle to 25
inches. At altitude set for cruise at 75% or lower as available or
desired. I have been using the suggestion contained in the book "Years
of the RV-ator" (at page 208) which suggests that 75% power is reached
with any combination of rpm and mp which totals 48 ignoring the last two
digits of the rpm reading (e.g.2500 rpm and 23 inches; 2400 rpm and 24
inches; 2300 rpm and 25inches, etc.) This method results in 65% power at any combination
which equals 45 and 55% power for a combination of 42.
A change in the sum of 3 equals a 10% power change. I am still
experimenting with cruise settings to reach a combo giving good speed
and reasonable gph.
Entering the pattern I have been increasing the rpm to 2700 max and
reducing the throttle until the speed reaches 100mph when about 1/3
flaps are set. This usually occurs about the time I am ready to turn
base. On final I set the throttle to indicate about 1600 rpm , lower
full flaps when I believe the glide slope is such that the threshold is "made"
and trim for approach speed of 80-85mph. I close the throttle
slowly during the flare and hopefully grease it on the runway.
Any comments regarding the prop and throttle settings during any stage of
flight would be welcome.
J. E. Rehler, RV6A N517RL
e-mail jepilot(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Michael,
Like you, I have heard more good than bad lately about the dreaded "H"
engine. I guess my only real problem with it is the modifications
necessary to use it in the RV. Maybe I'm just lazy, but I think I'd rather
go with one of the many, many engines that will fit with no mount or
cowling alterations.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Joe Rex
RV-4 Fuselage-made 1st bonehead measuring error tonight-God I love building
airplanes!
----------
> From: Michael C. Lott <datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: engine
> Date: Wednesday, February 05, 1997 8:24 PM
>
>
> I am suppose to send a deposit on an 0320-h2ad Friday. I think it is a
> good price. It is in a late 70ish 172. It has 2000 hrs since new, and
> is being removed for upgrade. I used to be afraid of these engines, but
> have heard more good news than bad, lately. I know the rv-4 mount will
> need to be modified, and something done about the mechanical fuel pump
> mounting area (cowling bubble, I think). I'm also planning on using one
> of the electronic ignition systems. Does anyone want to add anything to
> this, or try to talk me out of buying this engine? Please hurry if
> there is something else I need to consider before I buy this engine.
> Flame away!!!!! thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice On Phase II FAA Operating Limitation |
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
>
> It was brought to my attention that after Phase I of test flying
> successfully, that the limitation of flying over congested areas is not
> lifted in Phase II because we have an experimental plane.
>
> Well, that is a problem for me because I built an IFR RV6A. What am I
> expected to do when flying IFR, ask the controller to route me over
> uncongested areas ? Not practical.
>
Scott
It is not a issue so don't worry about it, you can fly over congested
areas for the purpose of landings and takeoffs, so the first half of the
flight is the takeoff portion and the second half of the flight is
the landing portion. :-) You will find that you can fly a RV just as you
would any other airplane. Just fly safely and keep the airplane
maintained and have fun.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna question |
<< I'm about to install an antenna for my VOR/LOC/GS. I would like to mount
it on
the belly in the area of the forward stick. Has anyone had any experience
with
this position? I'm concerned about "shadowing" while on an ILS approach.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z 130hrs
Albuquerque, NM
>>
Hi All,
I just talked with Bob Archer about this location for a VOR dipole antenna on
the belly under the wing. It will receiver best STRAIGHT DOWN. VOR may be
only 35 statue miles range.
A better location for the Dipole VOR antenna is on the top of the vertical
stabilizer.
If you can put a Sportcraft VOR antenna in the wingtip, you'll be MUCH
happier.
You'll just need a GS coupler to coupler the signal off of the VOR antenna,
regardless of the antenna used.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
Dear George and all,
The quickbuild manual talks about, and the "blueprint", although
obscured, shows the flap hinge on top of the flap brace. The George
Orndorff quickbuild tape on the other hand talks about the brace being on
top of the hinge. Does that mean it doesn't make any difference?
How about some discussion about why one method is preferred over the
other.
Ron Vandervort, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.wa.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices |
>
>This can be done with a good "very good" set of calipers or better yet using
>ultrasonic measuring equipment.
>
when I picked up my access. case from being machined I asked if they knew
anthing about holding torque pressure for 30 secs. as mentioned one day on
the list. Little did I realize the man teaches "bolted joint assembly
practices" and photocopied some interesting points.
-structurally a bolt acts as a pin to prevent slippage between members or as
a heavy spring to clamp members together. When clamping we make things stay
put by preloading the joint thru tension by tightening the bolt. Tightening
troque is an indicator in order to control tension in the bolt. Tension
preload must be greater than any working load the bolt will ever see in
service. When tightening torque is used as the assembly control, tension
preload will be inversely related to the friction in the threaded fastener.
Some 30-40 variables affect this friction, such as-
hardness of parts, surface finishes, type of matls, thickness and type of
plating, lubricant type, amount, condition, contamination, temp., speed of
tightening the nut, hole clearance, squareness of joint faces, thread
damage, wrench angle, and tightening stages and sequence.
DO THE FOLLOWING
use calibrated tool
use proper sequence and torque value (he said use 50% then 100% steps only)
use thread lubricant, clean parts, proper temp.
AVOID
damaged threads, dirty, corroded parts, glass bead residues, gasket sealer,
extra gaskets, torquing one side of thru bolts...
I would like to hear comments on this table. Does this apply to us as
airframe builders, or is this more engine rebuilders type stuff? Operator
feel appears better than click type wrenches, but then they recommend using
calibrated tools?
Preload Scatter reported for a Variety of Bolting Tools or Procedures
(values are percentages expressed as deviation from desired preload)
-torque control with hand wrench +/-30
-stall torque air tool
+/-35
-click type wrench
+/-60 to 80
-torque wrench with multiplier -70
to +150
-strain gaged bolts
+/-1
-hydraulic tensioners with vernier read-out +/-20
-operator feel
+/-35
-ultrasonic control
+/-1 to 10
-air powered impact wrench (Mr. Goodwrench?) -100 to +150
The Design and Behavior of Bolted Joints, 1990, Bickford, Dekker
Standard Handbook of Machine Design, 1986, Shigley, Miscke
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: constant speed prop settings |
<< (Snip)
Entering the pattern I have been increasing the rpm to 2700 max
(Snip)
Any comments regarding the prop and throttle settings during any stage of
flight would be welcome.
J. E. Rehler, RV6A N517RL
e-mail jepilot(at)juno.com
>>
Hello,
It all sounds good to me, from my days flying a Cherokee Arrow (similar
engine and prop to the Mooney), except for the line I left.
My training included setting the RPM at 2600 for landing. The reason given
was that the engine/prop tended to overshoot the initial set point, but would
not exceed 2700 RPM.
The second part of the training on a go-around was to smoothly apply full
throttle and pick up the prop lever at the end of the throttle lever travel
to get full power for the go-around.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david_fried(at)smtpgwy.dehavilland.ca |
| Subject: | More uses for tape-on stiffeners |
The belly skins on the 6 can generate quite a bit of noise when
taxiing on rough ground or when landing tailwheel first. A number of
builders have placed additional stiffeners on the skin in the two bays
aft of the baggage compartment.
Any where there is a loose skin. I had a problem on the fuselage
sides.
These places have received riveted stiffeners on my 6. With the tape
on stiffeners, I wouldn't have to explain the extra rivets. :(
David Fried
ddebt(at)pathcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
General aircraft question, not RV specific.
I have a 1946 Luscombe 8A with non-shielded ignition (Eisemann mags) I would
like to convert to shielded. Do I need to replace the Mags or is there another
way..
One comment on the corrosion issue (to prime or not to prime). My Luscombe is
50 years old and has no primer anywhere. There is also no corrosion. It
has
been located in the Northeast to North central US most of it's life.
I am not sure why my RV is being primed - I guess I want it to be able to pass
it to my grand grand children.
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Senior Research Engineer
Advance Vehicle Technology
Ford Motor Company
Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine selection |
I don't think the Cessna 170 series ever sported a Lyc. of any kind.
Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Ron,
The correct position is for the flap brace to be between the flap hing and
the skin. you should dimple the skin counter sink the flap brace and just
drill the hange. This will give you teh same thing as on the flap where you
have the skin the spar then the hinge . sorry for any confusion....George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna question |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers:
I have a single VOR ant mounted on the top of the vertical stab. It is
used for two VOR radios, LOC, & GS (with the necessary and proper
splitter). VOR reception is excellent. LOC & GS are also excellent.
The downside to the single antenna is reliability and ice related
problems. If the antenna, or coax fail during flight, you've lost
everything. Icing causes the GS to be lost first, which is not a good
situation. All other functions seem to continue to work.
And NO, I don't fly into intentional icing, but sometimes sh**
happens.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
><< I'm about to install an antenna for my VOR/LOC/GS. I would like to
mountit on
> the belly in the area of the forward stick. Has anyone had any
experiencewith
> this position? I'm concerned about "shadowing" while on an ILS
>approach.
>
> Dan Boudro
> RV-4 N9167Z 130hrs
> Albuquerque, NM
> >>
>Hi All,
>
>I just talked with Bob Archer about this location for a VOR dipole
antenna on
>the belly under the wing. It will receiver best STRAIGHT DOWN. VOR may
be
>only 35 statue miles range.
>
>A better location for the Dipole VOR antenna is on the top of the
vertical stabilizer.
>
>If you can put a Sportcraft VOR antenna in the wingtip, you'll be MUCH
>happier.
>
>You'll just need a GS coupler to coupler the signal off of the VOR
antenna,
>regardless of the antenna used.
>
>Jim Ayers
>LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon
>Marauder
>LesDrag(at)aol.com
>Thousand Oaks, California USA
>http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
>http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need Advice On Phase II FAA Operating Limitation |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Scott,
In the 150+ Hrs of actual IFR in my -6A, I've never been told by a
controller, whom knew that my plane was experimental, that I couldn't fly
over congested areas. While the FARs do specifically limit this,
controllers do what is practical for flow control. This is one of those
gray areas. Kind of like being given "heading xx , DIRECT when able" when
all you have is a VFR GPS.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>It was brought to my attention that after Phase I of test flying
>successfully, that the limitation of flying over congested areas is not
>lifted in Phase II because we have an experimental plane.
>
>Well, that is a problem for me because I built an IFR RV6A. What am I
>expected to do when flying IFR, ask the controller to route me over
>uncongested areas ? Not practical.
>
>I have heard that there are some RV friendly DAR's who will remove that
>restriction in phase II where some FSDO's will not.
>
>Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Also, I am still
looking
>for a DAR if anyone knows of a good one ( I'll pay travel ) who might be
>available.
>
>Thanks Very Much For All Who Respond ...
>
>
>Scott Johnson / Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
>
>Proj. Status: taxi tests start next week
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine selection |
>
>I don't think the Cessna 170 series ever sported a Lyc. of any kind.
My error in reading the application list. It reads Doyn-Cesnna....... Not
Doyn, Cessna
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.att.com |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed prop settings |
HI,
my 2c worth about pattern procedures for a constant speed prop...
transitioning to downwind and downwind (depending on where you enter
the downwind) bring throttle back to a setting that gives you a "normal
pattern speed". (you'll have to decide what that is for the airplane - it
was about 100-110mph in the Arrow I fly).
next was gear down (already down and welded in RV's) and trim.
opposite point of intended landing, throttle back to manifold pressure
that will give a comfortable rate of descent to landing (15" =/- for
my Arrow).
turn base and final adding flaps so that you can always make the
field should you lose your engine.
when on final, power back as needed and final flaps to make the field
and before you get busy flaring to touchdown ease propeller ahead to
full rpm should you need the power for a go around.
sounds more complicated than it really is....and it becomes a habit if
when you do it for each landing.
hope this helps a little.
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
| Subject: | ELT antenna location |
I am looking for some input on the location of an ELT antenna on a RV-4 . I
would like to keep the antenna out of the air stream if possible. I have
the ELT mounted in the baggage compartment.
Thank you
Tony Partain
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robbins Mitch <ROBBINM(at)chi.ntsb.gov> |
| Subject: | Engine selection |
At risk of straying from the charter of the rv-list. The C-170 series
type certificate provides for the installation of Continental C-145,
O-300 and Franklin 165. I think Doyne was an STC for the installation of
a Lycoming O-320. I don't know if any were ever done! Keep checking
those C-170s for O-320s!!!
Mitch Robbins
----------
From: owner-rv-list[SMTP:owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 1997 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine selection
I don't think the Cessna 170 series ever sported a Lyc. of any kind.
Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices (more) |
To all you are nuts about bolting -
I suggest you take a look at Kevin Lane's item. He references some very
interesting information from an expert on bolting practices. It caused me to go
look it up and I found more than I want to know on the subject.
But what I did find is that I was wrong regarding my comment that bolted joints
should not rely on the bolt as a shear-load resisting member. It seems that
steel structures such as bridges do indeed use the bolts in shear.
I stand corrected.
BUT..... only steel structures are referenced as being such a joint
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
Joe Rex wrote:
>
>
> Michael,
>
> Like you, I have heard more good than bad lately about the dreaded "H"
> engine. I guess my only real problem with it is the modifications
> necessary to use it in the RV. Maybe I'm just lazy, but I think I'd rather
> go with one of the many, many engines that will fit with no mount or
> cowling alterations.
> Good luck with whatever you decide.
>
> Joe Rex
> RV-4 Fuselage-made 1st bonehead measuring error tonight-God I love building
> airplanes!
>
> ----------
> > From: Michael C. Lott <datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: engine
> > Date: Wednesday, February 05, 1997 8:24 PM
> >
> >
> > I am suppose to send a deposit on an 0320-h2ad Friday. I think it is a
> > good price. It is in a late 70ish 172. It has 2000 hrs since new, and
> > is being removed for upgrade. I used to be afraid of these engines, but
> > have heard more good news than bad, lately. I know the rv-4 mount will
> > need to be modified, and something done about the mechanical fuel pump
> > mounting area (cowling bubble, I think). I'm also planning on using one
> > of the electronic ignition systems. Does anyone want to add anything to
> > this, or try to talk me out of buying this engine? Please hurry if
> > there is something else I need to consider before I buy this engine.
> > Flame away!!!!! thanks
michael
Why take a chance on an H2AD. Spend a few hundred dollars more and
get a run out E or D model. I think the chances of having problems
swing more in your favor, and it may make it easier to sell if you
ever decide to.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine selection |
> I don't think the Cessna 170 series ever sported a Lyc. of any kind.
> Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com
Not from the factory, but a good number of them have been converted
Larry
--
+++
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A
Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <DougR(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice On Phase II FAA Operating Limitation |
> >Well, that is a problem for me because I built an IFR RV6A. What am I
> >expected to do when flying IFR, ask the controller to route me over
> >uncongested areas ? Not practical.
> >
> >I have heard that there are some RV friendly DAR's who will remove that
> >restriction in phase II where some FSDO's will not.
> >
> >Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Also, I am still
> looking
My advice is don't ask questions that you won't like the answers to........
IMHO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Someone awhile back asked about a cabin noise reduction system using the
technology the noise cancelling headsets use.
The 1/24/97 GA News & Flyer reports that Twin Commander Aircraft Corp.
has introduced a retrofit system for its aircraft which uses 24 mics and
13 speakers, and achieves "50% or more" noise reduction. No price is
given.
Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks) |
| Subject: | Re: More uses for tape-on stiffeners |
rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes:
The belly skins on the 6 can generate quite a bit of noise when
taxiing on rough ground or when landing tailwheel first. A number of
builders have placed additional stiffeners on the skin in the two bays
aft of the baggage compartment.
Any where there is a loose skin. I had a problem on the fuselage
sides.
These places have received riveted stiffeners on my 6. With the tape
on stiffeners, I wouldn't have to explain the extra rivets. :(
-------
This is a great idea, David. And since the tape-on stiffeners are attached
from the inside only (no rivet line), they could be put on at a diagonal
which would break the skin into smaller triangular shapes and maybe even less
prone to vibration. The diagonal placement would only work on flat surfaces
although you could flute the stiffener to fit a curve.
Dann Parks
dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Introductory Special!! Under $500,000.
Hal Kempthorne halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. (SJC)
Debonair N6134V RV-6AQ on order!
>
> Someone awhile back asked about a cabin noise reduction system using the
> technology the noise cancelling headsets use.
>
> The 1/24/97 GA News & Flyer reports that Twin Commander Aircraft Corp.
> has introduced a retrofit system for its aircraft which uses 24 mics and
> 13 speakers, and achieves "50% or more" noise reduction. No price is
> given.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Lewis <lewy(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices |
This is the kinda stuff that happens when NASA lays off Mr. Wrench.
--
Just an opinion mindya
-> lewy(at)pacbell.net <- pacbell.net with two L's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had received my
paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime in
March.
They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into the
FAA. They said since it will be used with a non-certified prop ( ED Sterba
Wood Prop ), the engine will immediately become non-certified once it is
started with the wood prop. However, if it had been a constant speed prop
that was certified for the engine, the data plate could have stayed.
The engine will thus stay non-certified till it is torn down, and overhauled
by a certified shop. It seems to me that my new $19,000 Lycoming engine
just became worth alot less.
Is this normal procedure ?
Had I know this before I would have spent the extra for a certified prop
just to protect my engine investment.
I called Vans today and they won't have a constant speed prop for a 180 HP
engine for 18 weeks.
Does anybody have any suggestions ?
Scott rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed prop settings |
My two cents worth.
You should go to full flat pitch (max RPM) in the pattern as the
flat pitch will help slow down your RV. At the reduced power settings
the 2700 RPM is not a problem so don't worry about it.
(I run a Pitts at full power and 2700 RPM all the time with Const Speed Prop.)
Herman
dierks(at)ausitn.ibm.com
>
> Entering the pattern I have been increasing the rpm to 2700 max
> (Snip)
>
> Any comments regarding the prop and throttle settings during any stage of
> flight would be welcome.
>
>
> It all sounds good to me, from my days flying a Cherokee Arrow (similar
> engine and prop to the Mooney), except for the line I left.
>
> My training included setting the RPM at 2600 for landing. The reason given
> was that the engine/prop tended to overshoot the initial set point, but would
> not exceed 2700 RPM.
> The second part of the training on a go-around was to smoothly apply full
> throttle and pick up the prop lever at the end of the throttle lever travel
> to get full power for the go-around.
>
> Jim Ayers
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | List Test Message - Ignore. |
This is a test message. Please ignore.
Thanks,
Matt Drale
RV-List Admin.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For Atlanta Area RVers |
Hi,
My name is Rick McBride. I'll be moving to the Atlanta are late this summer
and am interested in making contact with local RV builders/flyers. Currently
I own an RV6 which I finished back in 92. I've built and RV8 tail and plan
to order the wings once I get settled in Atlanta. I intend to sell the RV6
before I move to help finance the RV8 project. If any of you wouldn't mind
talking to me I have a number of questions regarding the area and what
activity is going on. Please e-mail me at the below address. Thanks.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had received my
paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime in
March.
They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into the
FAA. They said since it will be used with a non-certified prop ( ED Sterba
Wood Prop ), the engine will immediately become non-certified once it is
started with the wood prop. However, if it had been a constant speed prop
that was certified for the engine, the data plate could have stayed.
The engine will thus stay non-certified till it is torn down, and overhauled
by a certified shop. It seems to me that my new $19,000 Lycoming engine
just became worth alot less.
Is this normal procedure ?
Had I know this before I would have spent the extra for a certified prop
just to protect my engine investment.
I called Vans today and they won't have a constant speed prop for a 180 HP
engine for 18 weeks.
Does anybody have any suggestions ?
Scott rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler) |
Suddenly, I'm getting RV-List massages from rv-list(at)roxy.llnl.gov instead of
the normal Matronics address. What exactly is going on?
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
I think this is BS. I have heard of inspectors taking the data plate
off engines in an experimental. This could be justified as the
experimental says you do not have to comply with AD's, etc.
However, to say it because of the prop does not make sense.
What they normally do is if you have an expermental prop is they
make you do a 40 hr test time (vs 25 if you have a certified engine AND prop).
This data plate stuff varies from region to region and inspector to
inspector.
I think they are confused. Try to find a DAR that you can work with.
The $250 or so for the service is well worth if if you don't have to
put up with this BS.
Herman
>
> I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had received my
> paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime in
> March.
>
> They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into the
> FAA. They said since it will be used with a non-certified prop ( ED Sterba
> Wood Prop ), the engine will immediately become non-certified once it is
> started with the wood prop. However, if it had been a constant speed prop
> that was certified for the engine, the data plate could have stayed.
>
> The engine will thus stay non-certified till it is torn down, and overhauled
> by a certified shop. It seems to me that my new $19,000 Lycoming engine
> just became worth alot less.
>
> Is this normal procedure ?
>
> Had I know this before I would have spent the extra for a certified prop
> just to protect my engine investment.
>
> I called Vans today and they won't have a constant speed prop for a 180 HP
> engine for 18 weeks.
>
> Does anybody have any suggestions ?
>
>
> Scott rvgasj(at)mcs.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
I inherited an HP 3C scanner in my office at work, and about ten seconds
after hooking it up to my Macintosh, I was struck by a great idea.
So today, I took my "DuPont Fleet Colors" catalog (containing paint chips
for 280 different fleet colors) to work and scanned the whole thing (8
pages) in.
The results are pretty good, although I made no attempt to color-correct
the scaner before I did this.
I'd love to share these files with anyone who wants them, but the problem
is that the filesize of each page is about 4 Meg. If anyone has any ideas,
please let me know. The files are in Photoshop 3 format, by the way.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice On Phase II FAA Operating Limitation |
Scott
Be careful doing the taxi tests. The RV can and will get airborne at very
low airspeeds. I wouldn't do the taxi tests unless the A/C was signed off
for flight. You may be test flying before you intended. You would then be
in violation.
There are a lot of pro's and con's on high speed taxi tests. Don't want to
make this too long so I'll be brief. I am against high speed tests for these
two reasons. First, A lot af people have torn up their planes while doing
so, and secondly, there are a lot more different forces acting on an airplane
during the power up, acceleration, power back, deceleration, and braking than
the forces you go through by takoff and landing. Be careful if you decide to
taxi at high speeds. Be ready for flight if you do. A lot of pilots have
found themselves airborne and don't have enough fuel to get it back down.
Good luck,
Dave D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
>
>I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had received my
>paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime in
>March.
>
>They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into the
>FAA. They said since it will be used with a non-certified prop ( ED Sterba
>Wood Prop ), the engine will immediately become non-certified once it is
>started with the wood prop. However, if it had been a constant speed prop
>that was certified for the engine, the data plate could have stayed.
>
>The engine will thus stay non-certified till it is torn down, and overhauled
>by a certified shop. It seems to me that my new $19,000 Lycoming engine
>just became worth alot less.
>
>Is this normal procedure ?
>
>Had I know this before I would have spent the extra for a certified prop
>just to protect my engine investment.
>
>I called Vans today and they won't have a constant speed prop for a 180 HP
>engine for 18 weeks.
>
>Does anybody have any suggestions ?
>
>
>Scott rvgasj(at)mcs.com
This is a problem with the FAA. Each district office acts like its own
fifedom (sp) and makes its own rules. My O-320 has a wood prop and still
has the data plate. I think you should either go to a different FAA office,
call the EAA or AOPA and discuss it. Bill.
PS: Your O-360 is worth just as much because it is more useable on a
homebuilt than a certified aircraft. There are only a few applications on
certifieds that it will bolt on without a lot of paperwork. There are a lot
of RV's that would jump at the chance to buy it from you if you decided to
sell in 500 hours. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine selection |
>
>> I don't think the Cessna 170 series ever sported a Lyc. of any kind.
>> Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com
>
>Not from the factory, but a good number of them have been converted
>Larry
>--
>+++
>Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
>
>KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
>
>Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A
> Looking forward to RV-6
Does the Cessna 172 qualify as a 170 series because the O-320-H2AD was a
Lyc/Cessna engine as well as used in a Cessna. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices (more) |
>To all you are nuts about bolting -
>
>I suggest you take a look at Kevin Lane's item. He references some very
>interesting information from an expert on bolting practices. It caused me
to go
>look it up and I found more than I want to know on the subject.
>
>But what I did find is that I was wrong regarding my comment that bolted joints
>should not rely on the bolt as a shear-load resisting member. It seems that
>steel structures such as bridges do indeed use the bolts in shear.
>
>I stand corrected.
>
>BUT..... only steel structures are referenced as being such a joint
>
>
>Bob Fritz
Bob, You are probably almost correct about the bolt holding components
together with the bolt not being in shear. However there are times when the
bolt is designed to be used in shear. An example would be a bolt
application that is being used in both tension and shear, and that is the
rear spar attach point. Van provides one bolt in this application because
there is some minute rotation possible on the rear spar under high loads.
The castle nut and safety pin are there to keep the nut from unscrewing
itself. However, the application with two members exiting the fuselage
place the bolt in shear should that minute amount of rotation occur. This
application is in the gray area, but the bolts attaching the seatbelt
hardware to the RV is definintely in shear. I think it is safe to say that
the application determines whether the bolt is used in shear or tension. In
most of the applications in an airplane, the bolt is used in tension. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had received my
> paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime in
> March.
>
> They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into the
> FAA. They said since it will be used with a non-certified prop ( ED Sterba
> Wood Prop ), the engine will immediately become non-certified once it is
> started with the wood prop. However, if it had been a constant speed prop
> that was certified for the engine, the data plate could have stayed.
>
> The engine will thus stay non-certified till it is torn down, and overhauled
> by a certified shop. It seems to me that my new $19,000 Lycoming engine
> just became worth alot less.
>
> Is this normal procedure ?
>
> Had I know this before I would have spent the extra for a certified prop
> just to protect my engine investment.
>
> I called Vans today and they won't have a constant speed prop for a 180 HP
> engine for 18 weeks.
>
> Does anybody have any suggestions ?
>
> Scott rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Scott
That is so much bull S**t. I have not heard of that in the 27 years I
have been flying experimental aircraft.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice On Phase II FAA Operating Limitation |
aol.com!RV6DD(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
A lot of snipping...
> Scott
>
> Be careful doing the taxi tests. The RV can and will get airborne at very
> low airspeeds. You may be test flying before you intended.
>
> There are a lot of pro's and con's on high speed taxi tests. Don't want to
> make this too long so I'll be brief. I am against high speed tests for these
> two reasons. First, A lot af people have torn up their planes while doing
> so, and secondly,
> Dave D
Very sage advice. The RV-4 I now own I bought as salvage after such an
accident where the plane was totalled. Sounds like the pilot was
incompetant I know, but he wasn't. He was simply not programmed for the
events which ensued. Don't high speed taxi. Just prepare yourself and
the airplane very carefully and go FLY it.
(another) Scott
N4ZW (was N6614Z in it's previous life)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce SkyMAp II |
<< Skyforce Avionics >>
The february issue of AOPA Piolet, on page 117 has a write-up on the
skymap. It appears that the skymap has a map area diagonal of 3.25 inches
compared with Garmin 195 of 4 inches. The rest of the display area is used
to designate buttons. That would give the Garmin 195 a somewhat larger map
area with more pixels for less $. The question I have is can the Garmin
antenna be located remotely like some of the other handheld GPS units.
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices/bolts held in shear |
Robert Fritz wrote:
>
>
> And again I must emphasize that bolts are for clamping, not resisting shear
> loads. If the clamping pressure is not enough to resist shear motion, then
> either the bolt is too loose or it is underdesigned.
>
> If you want to resist shear loads with a cross-pin system don't use a bolt.
It
> was suggested a couple of days ago that a Brown and Sharpe taper pin with
> threads on one end is the proper technique. I'm not familiar with these but
> they sure sound like the right idea.
>
> Most non-flamingly
>
> Bob Fritz
Well I'm gonna flame you Bob :)
If you tell me that the bolts in my center section splice are only in
tension (at 6g) and that merely the clamping force of the bolts and
plates is holding the wing together then I'm gonna laugh.
Technically taper pins are better in for shear applications, but I don't
buy that statement about bolts.
Why worry about hole tolerances so much then? Reaming?
Someone care to set me right?
Most flamingly ;)
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
When I mentioned the H2ad engine I got only negative feedback from
anyone who cared to answer me. To me, any feedback is good because I
now know more than I did about the H2ad before I asked. I was totally
against this engine until I read the article in the rvator a couple
months ago. It eased my fears about the engine so much that I decided
if one became available soon, I would snatch it. If any of ya'll can
add to what I've already heard about the engine, please speak up. I
would hate to know I'm saving a thousand bucks now, only to pay a lot
more in the long run. I guess the more parts I see in my shop, the
closer I feel I am to finally flying the plane! Oops! Sorry so long..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine selection |
>--------------
>>
>>> I don't think the Cessna 170 series ever sported a Lyc. of any kind.
>>> Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com
>>
>>Not from the factory, but a good number of them have been converted
>>Larry
>
>Does the Cessna 172 qualify as a 170 series because the O-320-H2AD was a
>Lyc/Cessna engine as well as used in a Cessna. Bill
>--------------
Well, I guess the 172 qualifies for a 170; but only if a Grumman qualifies
for an RV... Har har har... ;-)
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More paint schemes |
Tim Bronson wrote:
>
>
> First of all, thanks to all of you who replied to my question about paint
> schemes. Lots of good points were brought up, and the frog discussion was most
> interesting. Why do you suppose there are no bare metal frogs found in nature?
> Regarding bare metal, is there any kind of clear coating that can be put on bare
> aluminum, or does one commit to a lifetime of polishing to keep that shiny metal
> shiny? A friend has a bare metal Cessna 195 (beautiful) that he claims must
be
> eternally polished, but then he's not on the RV-list.
>
> Thanks again, folks.
>
> Tim Bronson Pittsburgh, PA
>
>
Clear poly-uruthane works well. Try DuPont Croma Clear or its
equivilant by any major manufacturer.
Robert Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna question |
Hey Fred,
Try mounting the antenna on the bottom of the fuselage below the horizontal
stabilizer, it should be less likely to icing due to the disturbed airflow
and the heat from the exhaust.
Thanks for the Landoll dampener it works great.
See Ya soon.
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
Bob Reiff wrote:
>
>
> Someone awhile back asked about a cabin noise reduction system using the
> technology the noise cancelling headsets use.
>
> The 1/24/97 GA News & Flyer reports that Twin Commander Aircraft Corp.
> has introduced a retrofit system for its aircraft which uses 24 mics and
> 13 speakers, and achieves "50% or more" noise reduction. No price is
> given.
>
> Bob Reiff
Like with planes and yachts, if you have to ask, you cannot afford it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
What the FAA told you was Bull Sh*t. Don't drill it off. The prop has
nothing to do on whether or not the engine remains a certified engine. Get a
DAR to do your inspection and tell those FAA guys to take a hike. Maybe
those are the guys who wrote up that twin for having all of the blades bent.
They were the P-Tip props.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lsmith(at)coastalnet.com (Louis E. Smith Jr.) |
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce SkyMAp II |
>
>
><< Skyforce Avionics >>
>The february issue of AOPA Piolet, on page 117 has a write-up on the
>skymap. It appears that the skymap has a map area diagonal of 3.25 inches
>compared with Garmin 195 of 4 inches. The rest of the display area is used
>to designate buttons. That would give the Garmin 195 a somewhat larger map
>area with more pixels for less $. The question I have is can the Garmin
>antenna be located remotely like some of the other handheld GPS units.
>
>Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
>
Gene,
To answer your question, yes, the Garmin 195 does come with a remote
antenna. It is connected via a "very small" coax cable. This antenna sits
on a mount with suction cups or can be removed from the mount and attached
directly to a glare shield. Looks very much like the external antennas but
only smaller. I bought one of these units this year at Oshkosh and have
been very impressed with it. The map is the clearest of any that I have
seen. The major grip that I have heard is the reloading time of the map
after zooming in or out wich can take five to ten seconds. This does not
bother me since the map displays so much data that it almost looks like a
sectionl chart with more info. In all other modes data updates seem to be
instantaneously. For example, I took the unit on a couple of trips on the
King Air and the HSI page rotates simultaneously with the gyro driven HSI of
our King Air. I guess you can tell I'm sold on mine.
Wing spars being delivered today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
Rocky Mount, NC
RV-8 #80126 wings N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Williams <williams(at)avana.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For Atlanta Area RVers |
aol.com!RICKRV6(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> My name is Rick McBride. I'll be moving to the Atlanta are late this summer
> and am interested in making contact with local RV builders/flyers. Currently
> I own an RV6 which I finished back in 92. I've built and RV8 tail and plan
> to order the wings once I get settled in Atlanta. I intend to sell the RV6
> before I move to help finance the RV8 project. If any of you wouldn't mind
> talking to me I have a number of questions regarding the area and what
> activity is going on. Please e-mail me at the below address. Thanks.
>
> Rick McBride
> RICKRV6(at)aol.com
> RV6 N523JC
> RV8 80027
Hi Rick!
My name is Bud Williams.
I live north of Atlanta, Georgia.
I started looking into this mailing list for a friend of mine who built and flies
and RV-4.
This is his second plane he has built.
His name is Jere Rosser.
I'm sure he would be more than happy to talk airplanes with you.
his plane is hangared at Cartersville airport, north of Atlanta.
We both work in the Air National Guard at Dobbins AFB in Marietta.
He will be retiring in April and should have more time to fly his airplane
after that.
He is also restoring a 59 MGA automobile.
You can touch base with him if you'd like at:
jrosser(at)gawrb.ang.af.mil
I'm sure this address is valid, if not
call him at work at
770-919-4660 or 5697 10PM-8AM
He has pretty good ties with most of the other pilots
in the area.
Take Care,
Bud Williams
williams(at)avana.net
If you get a chance,
check out my web site at
http://www.mugshots.com
We own a Photo Mug business
if you want a photo of your
RV on one, let me know!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Scott,
If you plan on obtaining you Repairman's License for you RV, why would
you want a certified engine? If it's certified, you won't be able to
perform any work on it without a IA's sign off in your log. (This is the
interpretation of my local FSDO office.)
As far as market value is concerned, the Certified engine market place
is shrinking while the Experimental engine market place is growing. Where
do you think the demand will be for experimental engines in the future?
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had received
my
>paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime
in
>March.
>
>They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into
the
>FAA. They said since it will be used with a non-certified prop ( ED
Sterba
>Wood Prop ), the engine will immediately become non-certified once it is
>started with the wood prop. However, if it had been a constant speed
prop
>that was certified for the engine, the data plate could have stayed.
>
> ***SNIP ***
>
>Scott rvgasj(at)mcs.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna question |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Bill,
It works great where it is now, except for the one time I iced it up.
One is suppose to stay out of that nasy stuff....... That and T storms.
I'm going to need some static wicks this summer.........
Glad to hear that you like the dampener. It worked great with my wood
prop also.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Hey Fred,
>Try mounting the antenna on the bottom of the fuselage below the
horizontal
>stabilizer, it should be less likely to icing due to the disturbed
airflow
>and the heat from the exhaust.
>Thanks for the Landoll dampener it works great.
>See Ya soon.
>
>Bill Mahoney
>Sherman, CT
>RV-6 N747W
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice Desperately For A DAR on RV's |
YO SCOTT,
We have a guy here in CT. that has inspected a bunch of RV,s including mine,
and I am sure he is up for a road trip. He is Andy Zitnay in Newtown, CT Tel
203-270-1431 tell him Bill Mahoney sent you.
Good Luck!
Regards
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6
N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
I have been through the certification process twice, both with the FAA. Neither
time did they ask for the data plate nor would they have gotten it. The FAA was
very professional BOTH times (once in Sacramento and once in Albuquerque) but as
in any large organization there are people who can be a pain in the AAA. Next
time I'll stick with the FAA too, after building two AC I'm not about to pay
some
"expert" $250 to look at my work.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More uses for tape-on stiffeners |
Due to the flexibility of the J-channel used in the rear fuselage of the RV6
you can also get a bit of oil-canning on the side skins. I used the same
stiffener angles used in the elevator and rudder to solve the problem. I
simply flutted the angle to match the slight curve in the fuselage, made a
slight cut out to clear the rudder cable and simply prosealed the angle to
the inside of the skin. The angles are oriented vertically at the mid-point
of each panel. The oil canning went away and after approximately 400 hours
the angles are still doing there job.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
| Subject: | FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Scott,
DON'T remove that data plate. There are no FARs requiring this and it can
be a safety hazard. I don't like to start an antagonistic relationship with
anyone at the FAA but in this instance I would not hesitate to do so.
Ask for the FAR site that requires removal of the data plate and ask for
the request in writing, signed by a supervisor. Then don't do it. File a
complaint with the FAA in DC.
Points:
1. A data plate does not a certified engine make. you must have logbooks
from day one indicating all ADs have been complied with, the engine has
been properly maintained by A&Ps and no unauthorized modifications
have been made to the engine .......
2. A data plate serial number (SN) provides proof of ownership which is
a requirement of the FARs for registration of experimental aircraft.
3. Many times ADs are based on the SN which provides date of
manufacture information. No SN makes AD compliance difficult which is a
safety issue.
4. The SN is the only legal way to tie the log books to the engine which is
required by FARs.
(Scribing or stamping the SN on the oilpan or engine case is not legally
acceptable.)
These are just the major issues. A data plate does not ensure the engine
is certified and acceptable for installation in a certified aircraft but it does
provide valuable and some legally required information about the engine.
If you hassle the local FAA they may hassle you back but in this case it
is worth the risk IMHO.
Charles Fink, RV-6 N548CF 88 hours
chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
Albuquerque, New Mexico
=> RV-List message posted by: Scott Johnson
I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had
received my
paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime in
March.
They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into the
FAA. snip<<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
Hi Luke,
EAA Chapter 524 hosts an RV forum every April. This year the date is set
for April 12 and 13, the weekend after Sun & Fun. A couple of weeks ago I
posted the forum info on the list, so you may want to check the archive for
additional info.
Anyone interested in attending the RV Forum who has not already received
their registration package please contact me directly by e-mail and I'll
mail it out.
Gene Gottschalk
geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov
or
geneg(at)oz.kis.net (preferred)
or call
(301) 865-3432
>
>I recently joined this list to gather information about homebuilding in
>general, and the RV-n specifically. I also have been reading through the
>past list archives, I'm up to somewhere in 94 :( It's fascinating
>reading tho. Following along with some of the projects really helps to
>give one a feel for the ups and downs of the process. I'm almost ready
>to start banging rivets, probably going with either the 6 or 6A. From
>the archives, I gather that there is an RV gathering in Frederick, MD
>every spring. Can anyone provide more info on this? Is there a used
>marketplace for tools and stuff there? I'm thinking of ordering the wing
>and tail kits soon, and was wondering if I should hold off on any major
>tool/(jig?) purchases until after the Frederick show?
>
>Thanks,
>-Luke
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More paint schemes |
> > Regarding bare metal, is there any kind of clear coating that can be put on
bare
> > aluminum, or does one commit to a lifetime of polishing to keep that shiny
metal
> > shiny? A friend has a bare metal Cessna 195 (beautiful) that he claims must
be
> > eternally polished, but then he's not on the RV-list.
> >
> > Thanks again, folks.
> >
> > Tim Bronson Pittsburgh, PA
> >
> >
> Clear poly-uruthane works well. Try DuPont Croma Clear or its
> equivilant by any major manufacturer.
>
> Robert Miller
Wrong.
I have a polished Cessna 140 and have explored many options to avoid
the (very tedious) job of polishing or at least limit it somewhat. I've
seen this idea tried before -on an airplane (and tested it myself -not
on an airplane) with less than great results. First the shine is NOT
NEARLY as impressive with a clear coat on it. Second, the longevity is
nill. The stuff doesn't seem to want to stay adhered to a highly
polished surface (for long)
If you want a shiny silver airplane then (at least for now -till
technology comes up with a better idea) you must polish. There are some
wax-like post-polish treatments that help the shine to last but even
they cut down on some of the brilliance.
Believe me, if there were any other way I would have found it.
Scott
N4ZW/NC76740 -polishing my fingerprints off.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hitchings" <wbgroup(at)lantic.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:No-Bounce Hammer |
Hi there
Is it a necessity or a luxury to use a no-bounce hammer when rivetting the
main wing spar?
Thanks for the advice.
Brian Hitchings
RV-6A
South Africa
briandh(at)lantic.co.za
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IIMorrow 704 Com Radio |
| From: | Bill Esther 503-627-5217 <billiam(at)mdhost.cse.tek.com> |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Esther Email: billiam(at)mdhost.cse.tek.com
Tektronix, Inc
PO Box 500 (m/s 50-153) Voice: 503 627-5217
Beaverton, OR 97077-0001 FAX: 503 627-5584
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyone out there know where I can get a hold of a new/used
IIMorrow 704 Com Radio? These Radio's were built about 1985.
Thanks in advance
Bill Esther
|___|
____(+)____
| |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Fellow RVers,
The subject of Fuel Lube came up on the Glastar list which remined me of
the "fuel lube offer" that I made several months ago. Since this stuff
costs $ 16.00/lb and a pound would be enough to last several full time
mechanics many lifetimes, I offered to sell a 35 mm film canister full of
the stuff for $ 5.00, postage paid. I sent some out to several RVers and
would be happy to make this offer again to save builders spending a lot of
money on something they don't need a lot of. After filling 10 or so
canisters, I've decided to drop the price to $4.00 per container. This
includes the mailing envelope and postage (USA). (To all of you who paid $
5.00, I'm going to send in an extra buck to Matt when I send my "support
check" to him.) Like I said before, this deal isn't a "profit center" for
me, you can do what you want. I just want to recoup my expenses. The only
downside I can see is if I sell all my fuel lube, I'll have to buy some more:(
To all who bought the 35 mm container from me earlier, would you E-mail
me, off list and confirm that there is more than enough to do several
airplanes? P.S. If you ran out, you're using way too much:)
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Davi Howard <snoopyar(at)pacbell.net> |
Does anyone have information about these aftermarket wingtips i've
been hearing about that are supposed to add 5 to 7 mph? Thanks in
advance.
Davi
RV-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: H2AD engines |
> When I mentioned the H2ad engine I got only negative feedback from
> anyone who cared to answer me. To me, any feedback is good because I
[snip!]
> if one became available soon, I would snatch it. If any of ya'll can
> add to what I've already heard about the engine, please speak up. I
[snip snip!]
I didn't respond before because like you, I don't really know much
more about it than I've read and people have told me. But I thought
I'd mention that I've talked to Eustace Bowhay about this engine, he
thinks it's a fine engine once the various ADs and fixes are applied
to it. Of course, he does just happen to have several of them for
sale (OH'd to new specs) right now. But he is highly respected (by me
and others) and I would trust his opinion on it. You might want to
give him a call and discuss it -- his # is 604-675-4428 (BC Canada).
Sometimes these "orphan" cases can be really good deals. I once owned
a C-175 with that "notorious" GO-300 engine -- had a great time flying
it, didn't do any major work on it, and after 2 years sold it for 30%
more than I bought it for.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Scott,
A piece rubber fuel hose split down the middle works fine, a little
armour-all and it looks great. I painted the top of my glare shield flat
black and I forgot it was there until I got your e-mail.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman,CT
RV-6
N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:No-Bounce Hammer |
> Is it a necessity or a luxury to use a no-bounce hammer when rivetting the
> main wing spar?
Didn't use one, didn't miss it.
BUT -- it IS a necessity to use the right weight hammer -- at LEAST 4
lbs. I've heard more stories from people who said this method didn't
work for them, only to find out that they were either trying to do it
with a light-weight hammer, or doing it on something other than a
concrete floor. Make sure you have a 4-5 lb hammer and do it on a
concrete floor or you will not get good results.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
I e-mailed them for more information but they never replied. Probably
because I mentioned Homebuilt.
Dave D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bshaw5(at)juno.com (William H Shaw) |
To Luke Schuler -
In regards to the RV Forum @ Frederick, MD. It's going to be on the 12th
& 13th of April this year. The contact is Dave Liston. There are several
things going on, e.g., speakers on a variety of subjects concerning RV
construction and Mr "RV" himself, Richard VanGrunsven(sp?). Write or call
Dave Liston and he can give you the particulars. His phone # is
301-831-3008 or send a letter to: EAA Chapter 524 - RV Forum, 6706 Old
Stonehouse Lane, New Market, MD 21774.
There is a banquet on Friday, April 11th also.
Bill Shaw
RV6 empennage kit still in the carton with no space :>(
bshaw5(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Fellow RVers,
Here is a message that I just sent to the Glastar list. If any of you
have any thoughts on these antenna installations, I'd appreciate your input.
Thanks, Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
*********************
Star builders:
We're already thinking about internal antenna locations. Bill would like
to have his transponder and GPS antennas mounted internally. I don't think
there is much of a problem with the transponder antenna. I think we can
locate this antenna behind the baggage compartment (away from any steel that
might interfere with performance). I'd mount the transponder antenna to a
ground plane and secure it to a mount. The antenna would, of course, point
down.
On the GPS, I don't think it would receive signals very well through the
fuselage shell (note RV builders: made of fiberglass) and we've talked about
making a bracket and mounting it under the rear cabin plexy, attaching the
bracket to the fuselage shell at the aft end of the rear glass. Any
comments of suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob Skinner & Bill Harris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce SkyMAp II |
I have a Garmin 195 and it is the closest thing to perfect that I have found.
The display is by far the best and the data base is the most extensive of
any of the hand helds. It has every approach for every airport in the U.S.!
It has every VOR in the world! The map definition is outstanding and can be
customized any way you like. The auto zoom feature is outstanding. There
are high definition cartridges for the unit but the standard detail is so
good, I can't imagine what anyone would want with one. The finest scale is
1/10 of a mile and the unit is so accurate that you can look back at your
track and see if you landed on the centerline of the runway. It has a built
in antenna and a remote antenna that can be mounted about six feet away from
the unit. The only fault that I can find with the unit is that it will not
intercept a leg to the next fix automatically if you are given a short cut on
a flight plan. You must watch the course line and intercept manually. That
is not a big deal, but would be a nice feature to have. By now you must have
figured out that I just love mine and wouldn't fly anywhere without it.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | Unpacking Wing Kit |
Hi all,
I am in the process of inventory of my RV-8 wing kit which just arrived
today :-) What is the secret to separating those wing ribs which are
stuck together as if they were glued? I will not use a screwdriver to
pry them apart except as a last resort.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
I was at the Maryland forum last year and there were some vendors there i.e.
the Orndorf's but I wouldn't count on seeing a lot of stuff to buy in the way
of tools. Last year it was also advertised that Van was going to be there
(which is the main reason I went) but they were a no show. A couple of
aircraft were there and the forums were useful, especially for a novice.
George Orndorf's talks were quite informative but since he's moved to Texas I
don't know if he's going to show. I would recommend this forum if it's not
too long of a drive but I wouldn't go too far out of my way. Your local EAA
chapter probably has couple builders in it who could probably steer you in
the right direction.
________________________________________________________________________________
What is this Fuel Lube?
Dave D.
________________________________________________________________________________
What is this Fuel Lube?
Dave D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Scott,
First of all your engine wont be worth any less! There's a big market out
there for 0320's and 0360's. The people looking for these engines are mostly
experimental aircraft builders.
Im not going to get myself in a ringer by stating FARs because im not
positivly sure but! The prop has nothing to do with the eng being certified
or uncertified. My understanding is that once an engine is installed on any
experimental aircraft no mater what prop you are running it is considered
uncertified. In order for it to be recertified the eng must be torn down and
brought back within manufacturors tolerances. Reason being is you are working
on this engine with a repairmans certificate. Technically only an A&P or IA
can maintain a certified eng or airframe.
I know ill recieve plenty of hate mail for this one! I do have a freind who's
brother is a DAR and I know this is his practice. I will see if I can find
the regulations sometime in the next couple of days and find out for sure.
Just trying to help
Ryan Bendure
RV4131RB(at)aol.com
RV flyer, Builder, and
A&P
I did forget to add though that my eng is a highly modified 0320 and is no
where near certifieable. The FAA did inspect my airplane but did not ask for
the data plate, however the log books do state exactly what has been done to
the eng. The FAA does tend to make up the rules as they go along!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce SkyMAp II |
<< the Garmin 195 does come with a remote
antenna. It is connected via a "very small" coax cable.
Rocky Mount, NC
>>
Louis
Thanks for the enthuiastic note on the Garmin 195. It's time for me to go
look more closely at the actual item. By the way, Rocky Mount, NC has the
best BBQ in the world.
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unpacking Wing Kit |
Steve, hi
I clamped one flange at a time (the one that goes against the spar) in
the vise and tapped them apart using a wooden dowel and hammer.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
>
>I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had received my
>paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime in
>March.
>
>They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into
>the FAA. They said since it will be used with a non-certified prop ( ED
>Sterba Wood Prop ), the engine will immediately become non-certified
>once it is started with the wood prop. However, if it had been a constant
>speed prop that was certified for the engine, the data plate could have stayed.
>
I have two questions:
Would the same FAA officials require compliance with all AD's
against the now non-certified engine? ("Ensure Safety AND Promote Aviation?")
Does a certified engine started in a runup stand with a non-certified prop
immediately become non-certified, and how would they know?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
Bob:
Has Bill bought his antennas yet?
I have done quite a bit of snooping around about antennas and had quite a
lenghty discussion with Bob Archer (Sportcraft). His Transponder/DME
antenna ($55) does not require a ground plane. It is only 6" high by x 7"
long and could be located in the aft fuselage or under the steel cage
(there is room vertically). I would be inclined to make a temporary
installation and try it in both locations before I made it permanent. Cable
losses are quite high at xpndr frequencies so the shorter the better and by
all means use something better than RG 58.
He also has a nice little MB antenna ($25) that would work well internally
on the bottom of the aft fuselage.
Why do you think that the GPS won't work well through the GlaStars
non-conductive fibreglass fuselage? Almost all of the ones that I have seen
have some sort of a fiberglass fairing over them. It can see thru FG as
well as it can see thru PG. Don't restrict yourself to putting it under a
skylite. The main thing is to put it in where it can see as much unblocked
sky and horizon as possible.
John Top #5372
(619) 549-3356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | RV-6 belly skins |
It appears to me that the bottoms of 2 bays aft of the baggage
compartment have the largest areas of flat unsupported skin on the
aircraft. with the recent postings regarding rumble & oil-canning, I'm
considering adding 2 strips of J-channel to the floor of these aft 2
bays, and 1 strip to the 3rd bay.I don't think there is a problem in
these areas, I just like the idea of the skins being supported. Any
comments pro or con on this idea?
Chris Brooks RV-6
biulding fuselage
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com (Finn Lassen) |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on glare shield bumper |
Whould it be pratical at all to make it sliding? You'd pull it towards
you when needed. If pushed it'd move forward out of harms way.
Just an idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:No-Bounce Hammer |
| From: | durbanski(at)juno.com (Daniel R Urbanski) |
Its necessary, if you want to do a good job.
Good Luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KEN HARRILL" <KHarrill(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:No-Bounce Hammer |
Brian,
I used a four pound hammer and "Avery" tool to rivet my spars. Place the
"Avery" tool on a concrete floor. I had no problem, but I did not try a
No-Bounce hammer.
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, wings
K.Harrill(at)Worldnet.att.net
----------
> From: Brian Hitchings <lantic.co.za!wbgroup(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List:No-Bounce Hammer
> Date: Friday, February 07, 1997 8:28 AM
>
>
> Hi there
>
> Is it a necessity or a luxury to use a no-bounce hammer when rivetting
the
> main wing spar?
>
> Thanks for the advice.
>
> Brian Hitchings
> RV-6A
> South Africa
> briandh(at)lantic.co.za
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave and/or Diane Irwin" <dirwin(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | self-tapping sheet metal screws |
I am building an RV-6A with steps. The plans call for the baggage area
floor and rear-sidewall to be fastened with pop rivets which means that I
will be unable to inspect the bolts that holds the steps which are under
the baggage area floor. Has anyone tried using self-tapping sheet metal
screws instead of plate-nuts to fasten the baggage area floor/walls? If
these screws are OK (from Aircraft Spuce) for the baggage area floor then
could they be used for the cockpit floor as well? I am looking for
something simpler than using plate-nuts - might just put an inspection door
in the floor as an alternative.
Dave Irwin
RV-6'eh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Fellow Rvers,
I've had a few posts asking what fuel lube is. From ACS: Lubricant for
fuel and oil line valves, especially for aromatic and high-octane fuels.
Also suitable as gasket paste. Good as anti-seize for threads. Will not
gum or dry out.
In other words, helps lubricate threads and seals at the same time. I
used the lube on any pipe thread fittings in the fuel and oil system and
even the brake system. It takes very little of the stuff to do the job.
You do not put this stuff of the face of flares. I only use it in the
threaded area. I used the lube on the cork gasket on the fuel tank access
plate and the gasket for the fuel sender and a leaky gasket on my brake
reservoir. It works well a lube for when you tighten down the 90 degree AN
fittings in the fuel selector valve. It works well for holding washers in
place on nuts for difficult assembly jobs (It's really sticky stuff).
Also, forgot to put down my address: Bob Skinner, 43461 Rd. 757,
Lexington, NE 68850. You do not need to send a 35 mm film canister as I
have enough (I think).
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bseckstein(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:No-Bounce Hammer |
<<
Is it a necessity or a luxury to use a no-bounce hammer when rivetting the
main wing spar?
>>
If you are referring to using the Hand Dimpling and Rivetting tool for
setting your spar rivets, you will be striking a rather small diameter shaft
with a large hand held hammer. I'm not sure that anyone makes a dead blow
hammer big enough, and even if they did, you would not be doing that
expensive hammer any favors by striking that small diameter as robustly as
you will need to.
I just finished my spars with a 3 pound sledge. 3 good, solid blows per
rivet. It went fast. Be sure to cut the rivets to 1.5x diameter. I had to
cut maybe 30 rivets per spar.
Good luck and don't miss
Brian Eckstein
6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: self-tapping sheet metal screws |
<< I am looking for something simpler than using plate-nuts - might just put
an
inspection door in the floor as an alternative.
Dave Irwin
RV-6'eh
>>
Hello Dave,
I'd use riv-nuts before I'd use sheet metal screws. Riv-nuts are also in the
ACS catalog.
The sheet metal screws tend to fall out, or strip out if they are put into
the aluminum flanges. You need a tinnerman nut (U type (AN395)) to screw the
sheet metal screw into to get the screws to stay (also in the ACS catalog).
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Get a DAR to do your inspection and tell those FAA guys to take a hike. Maybe
those are the guys
who wrote up that twin for having all of the blades bent. They were the P-Tip props.
Dave
________________________
Actually they were the guys who filed the original Bob Hover report! :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice On Phase II FAA Operating Limitation |
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
>
> It was brought to my attention that after Phase I of test flying
> successfully, that the limitation of flying over congested areas is not
> lifted in Phase II because we have an experimental plane.__________________________
Scott:
FAR 91.319 (C) states . . ."The Administrator MAY ISSUE special operating lilitations
for
particular aircraft to permit takeoffs and landings to be conducted over a densely
populated area
or in a congested airway . . ."
If you are homebased in an urban area you may want the above non-limitation added
to your sign
off so flying in and out of your area may give you peace of mind. Under IFR conditions
you
anounce yourself as "Experimental N----. You have announced to the controllers
you are
experimental and you are now under ATC control. IMHO it is a gray area because
there there is no
FAR that addresses your concern under IFR conditions. In fact you can't fly IFR
"unless
specifically authorized by the administrator" so you might ask for a non-lilitation
when he signs
of the aircraft for IFR.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Looking for a 4 |
Hello out there
I am a viper driver (F-16) now flying a desk at MacDill AFB FL. Looking for
a reasonably priced VFR RV-4.
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Does anyone have information about these aftermarket wingtips i've
been hearing about that are supposed to add 5 to 7 mph? Thanks in
advance.
Davi
RV-4 wings
>>
Hi Davi,
Give Ollie a call at (805) 872-0847. I don't think that are available in
quantities, yet, but he should know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Doyal <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | pneumatic squeezer |
I just received a pneumatic squeezer today from Cleaveland Tools with
no instuctions as how to set depth with spacers. Any advice or hints
concerning this tool will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Lorz" <tlorz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezer |
Just do what the rest of us did Jerry, trial and error. Practice on some
scrap and make some notes for each rivet size.
>
> I just received a pneumatic squeezer today from Cleaveland Tools with
> no instuctions as how to set depth with spacers. Any advice or hints
> concerning this tool will be appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
> Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bseckstein(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | unpacking wing kit |
You can separate the ribs non-destructively by inserting a wooden wedge in a
lightening hole and prying them apart.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Chasnoff <dchasnoff(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Ryan,
What types of modifacations have you made to your engine? Do you have any
recomended mods for other RV builders.
David Chasnoff
RV4
dchasnoff(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
Hello group,
Now that all of you have had a chance to read, digest and thouroughly
understand all the information presented in the excellent S. A. article (Jan
97) on exhaust systems, I am interested in how these recommendations compare
with what's being done by most RVers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Looking for a 4 |
>Hello out there
>I am a viper driver (F-16) now flying a desk at MacDill AFB FL. Looking for
>a reasonably priced VFR RV-4.
Have a day-VFR RV-4 with O-320/160 HP, Warnke 68-74 p-tip wood prop, ~400
ttaf, ~800 smoh engine, Apollo 604 database loran, Narco Comm 810 tso comm,
G-meter, NO GYRO'S.
Cruise ~ 165 knots @ 2500 rpm
Located Slobovia Outernational Airport (MS71) 6 mi SW of JAN vor, Jackson, MS.
e-mail or phone 601-638-7237.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)oz.kis.net> |
Listers,
We are not planning to have tool vendors. In the past we have set up vendor
display areas, including additional tents outside the hangar, but have
found it to be unprofitable. Since our forum is a non profit event, lost
money comes out of the EAA Chapter 524 members pockets. We do not
discourage vendors presenting their products, but we will do not solicit or
indorse them either. The focus of the forum is to present the issues
surrounding RV/experimental aircraft construction and licensing. We are not
a construction workshop, but do have some hands on riveting and metal
working displays. If your looking for a metal workshop we encourage you to
attend one of the many fine workshops offer by Van's, Avery's, the
Orndorffs as well as many others. If your interested in learning about the
challenges of building you will get what you are looking for. We cover such
topics as selecting engines, weight and balance, working with the FAA,
electrical systems, AN hardware, etc. The focus is on the potential builder
that hasn't made up their mind yet, but wants to know up front what they
will be up against.
Van planned to attend the forum last year, but weather prevented him from
making it. Since he flies VFR, if the weather between his location and the
forum is IFR you won't see him. The same situation exists for George and
Becki Orndorff. They plan to attend, but if you fly you know there are
times you can't go where you want to when the weather doesn't cooperate.
Although we will be disappointed, we don't encourage flying in marginal
weather. I can assure you we do not advertise programs we have not
verified. I think you will find the forum a bargain compared to other
commercially offered programs. The forum is put on by the EAA Chapter 524
and manned entirely by volunteers. If you need additional information
please don't hesitate to contact me or Chapter 524.
Gene Gottschalk
Chapter 524, Frederick, Maryland
301 865-3432
geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov
or
geneg(at)oz.kis.net (preferred)
>
>I was at the Maryland forum last year and there were some vendors there i.e.
>the Orndorf's but I wouldn't count on seeing a lot of stuff to buy in the way
>of tools. Last year it was also advertised that Van was going to be there
>(which is the main reason I went) but they were a no show. A couple of
>aircraft were there and the forums were useful, especially for a novice.
>George Orndorf's talks were quite informative but since he's moved to Texas I
>don't know if he's going to show. I would recommend this forum if it's not
>too long of a drive but I wouldn't go too far out of my way. Your local EAA
>chapter probably has couple builders in it who could probably steer you in
>the right direction.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Does anyone know if there is a site ont net that list's ad's for
aircraft and engines? Thanks..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
Bill,
The banquet is scheduled for Saturday evening, April 12. Seating this year
is limited to the first 150 to register. You can call me as well.
-Gene Gottschalk
EAA Chapter 524, Frederick, MD
301 865-3432
>
>To Luke Schuler -
>In regards to the RV Forum @ Frederick, MD. It's going to be on the 12th
>& 13th of April this year. The contact is Dave Liston. There are several
>things going on, e.g., speakers on a variety of subjects concerning RV
>construction and Mr "RV" himself, Richard VanGrunsven(sp?). Write or call
>Dave Liston and he can give you the particulars. His phone # is
>301-831-3008 or send a letter to: EAA Chapter 524 - RV Forum, 6706 Old
>Stonehouse Lane, New Market, MD 21774.
>
>There is a banquet on Friday, April 11th also.
>
>Bill Shaw
>RV6 empennage kit still in the carton with no space :>(
>bshaw5(at)juno.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)flinthills.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unpacking Wing Kit |
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am in the process of inventory of my RV-8 wing kit which just arrived
>today :-) What is the secret to separating those wing ribs which are
>stuck together as if they were glued? I will not use a screwdriver to
>pry them apart except as a last resort.
>
>Steve Johnson
>
>RV-8 #80121
>
>Steve,
If you have 3/16 clecoes you might try putting one in a tooling hole
and pulling that way.
Tim Sweemer
RV4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)flinthills.com |
| Subject: | engine designations |
Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different
designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, etc.?
Tim Sweemer
RV4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Fred,
What's involved in getting a repairman's licence.
Joel
ab320flyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unpacking Wing Kit |
Steve,
I used a pair of wide nosed pliers with taped jaws to grasp the flange and
pull like crazy. Once you get one corner free it's a piece of cake.
Joel Harding (RV8 wing spars arrived yesterday)
ab320flyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAGPADDLES(at)aol.com |
Has anyone had major delays in getting stuff from Avery's lately? I''ve been
waiting for the catalog for 3 weeks and have called twice, but no-joy. I've
seen what seem to be glowing endorsements of them in the archives so maybe
they just don't like me.
Jim Brown (RV-6 in
waiting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Williams <williams(at)avana.net> |
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know if there is a site ont net that list's ad's for
> aircraft and engines? Thanks..
yes...
try http://www.traderonline.com
also check out my page if you'd like at
http://www.mugshots.com
Bud Williams
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 belly skins |
I had also heard about oil canning in this area, and what some other
builders were doing about it. So here's what I did.
I bought an extra piece of "J" stringer from Van's, and cut it in two.
I put these pieces in the bottom of the fuselage in the two bays aft of
the baggage compartment just like your suggesting. Like I said, I got
this idea from another builder who got it from some RV builders in the
Bakersfield area.
Since I'm not finished with mine yet, I don't know how much it will
help, but it looked like a good idea to me.
Mark LaBoyteaux
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
RV-6a finishing fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: self-tapping sheet metal screws |
Here's what I did. I also wanted to be able to inspect under the
floorboards or have the ability to add antenna's and wiring in the
future. I decided to use clip nuts. They're much easier to install than
nutplates. This will alow me to remove the floorboards during annual
inspections. You might try looking in Aircraft Spruce Catalog on page
72, they have a "U" type speed nut fastener that might be of use. Hope
this helps.
Mark LaBoyteaux
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
RV-6a finishing fuselage
N106RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: self-tapping sheet metal screws |
>
>I am building an RV-6A with steps. The plans call for the baggage area
>floor and rear-sidewall to be fastened with pop rivets which means that I
>will be unable to inspect the bolts that holds the steps which are under
>the baggage area floor. Has anyone tried using self-tapping sheet metal
>screws instead of plate-nuts to fasten the baggage area floor/walls? If
>these screws are OK (from Aircraft Spuce) for the baggage area floor then
>could they be used for the cockpit floor as well? I am looking for
>something simpler than using plate-nuts - might just put an inspection door
>in the floor as an alternative.
>
>
>Dave Irwin
>RV-6'eh
>
>
To be blunt---
NO! NO! NO! Self-tapping screws work marginally on thicker steel skins; on
relatively thin aluminum they will not only loosen, they will also work the
hole larger and larger. You will eventually either have to use #14 size
screws or replace them with nutplates.
Skip all the hassle and either use nutplates now or use the pop rivets and
drill them out if you have to get into that area.
Hey, why not use 3M VHB doublesided sticky tape to bond the steps to the
airframe?? ;>)
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
> First, A lot af people have torn up their planes while doing
> so, and secondly, there are a lot more different forces acting on an
> airplane
> during the power up, acceleration, power back, deceleration, and braking
> than
> the forces you go through by takoff and landing. Be careful if you decide
> to
> taxi at high speeds. Be ready for flight if you do. A lot of pilots have
> found themselves airborne and don't have enough fuel to get it back down.
I agree with everything Dave mentions. In addition, at the very least make
sure the weight and balance is done and within spec. A builder was doing
some taxi testing "just to check the gear alignment" (?) and ended up
airborne. No w/b, no sign off, bingo fuel, etc. He made it back, but it's
not a situation I'd care to confront.
Ed Bundy RV6A #23834 N427EM - flying
Eagle, ID
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Frederick RV Forum |
Listers
Bill Shaw phoned today to apologize for posting erroneous information on
the RV Forum Banquet. Bill read in the RV forum registration that the
Banquet would be Friday. This is an error on the registration form, not on
Bill's part. In the past the Forum was held Friday and Saturday with the
banquet held Friday night. We moved the forum dates to accommodate Van's
schedule, at his request. The dates are Saturday and Sunday, April 12 and
13, the weekend after the Sun & Fun fly-in. The banquet will be Saturday,
April 12. I apologize for any inconvenience.
A big thanks to Bill for bringing this to my attention!
Gene Gottschalk
Chapter 524, Frederick MD
301 865-3432
geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.go
or
geneg(at)oz.kis.net (preferred)
>There is a banquet on Friday, April 11th also.
>
>Bill Shaw
>RV6 empennage kit still in the carton with no space :>(
>bshaw5(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | engine designations |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC15CE.1A712440
Tim,=20
Someone (Elon or Herman Dierks) put a listing of how to read Lycoming =
engine numbers on the list sometime last year. (1996) I can't find my =
copy but I'm sure its in the archives. Al prober(at)iwaynet.net
----------
From: =
flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com[SMTP:flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronic=
s.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 08, 1997 5:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: engine designations
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: teetime(at)flinthills.com
Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different
designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, =
etc.?
Tim Sweemer
RV4 Wings
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Doyal <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | pneumatic squeezer |
Thanks for your response, but my question is where do you
put the spacers in the pneumatic squeezer?
Thanks,
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Nolin <rtnolin(at)alaweb.com> |
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know if there is a site ont net that list's ad's for
> aircraft and engines? Thanks..
Michael:
Query "FEDWORLD" on your search engine, and then go snooping around.
You'll be amazed at the amount of info the FAA has available there. ADs
are included I believe. You can also obtain ACs and other meaningful
documents through Fedworld. Recently, the FAA started to use this to
save Gov't printing cost.
Randy
RV-someday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I am fabricating my F-405 bulkhead. I am stuck on the 2 F-405B angles.
The plans show a an .063 spacer on top of each angle. I don't see any
reference to attaching those spacers to the angles. Are they not attached
at this time? If they are, I assume flush rivets would be called for.
Whoever said there is no such thing as a stupid question obviously never
met me.
Joe Rex
RV-4 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine designations |
flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different
> designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, etc.?
>
> Tim Sweemer
>
> RV4 Wings
Call Lycoming, they can provide one. I think Van's also has a copy of it
in the construction manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
David,
I wont say I would recomend it but. I run 10:1 compression The cylender
ports are polished, and the crank and connecting rods are balanced. I would
guess the eng puts out in the neigborhood of 175 hp. When I was building my
project I got to know the eng builder Dick Demars pretty well, and he
sugjested this since I was overhauling my engine anyway. AT the time I did
this I had 090 milled off the case halves where the cylenders mount and
installed 8.5:1 pistons ( this adds up to 10:1 compression. Now you can buy
10:1 pistons without haveing to do any machining on the case's. For all my
time and effort this cost me $600.00. 10:1 pistons now run about $250.00 each
add an extra $1000.00 to the project. Since I milled my decks I also had to
shorten my pushrods accordingly. I have never been dissapointed but this eng
will obviously never be used on a certified ac again.
To make a long story short my 4 cruises at about 190mph and I have been happy
for 360hrs. What I will say is that the proper propeller selection is far
more inportant than pumping up your eng, the prop makes all the difference. I
have run right next to 0360 powered airplanes with fixed pitch props and run
dead even. I have also seen 160hp RVs that run right along with these higher
output engines. 3 or 4 of us in the area run the High comp engines and did
pretty well in the sun 100 last year. I also note a better fuel burn with the
high compression set up. I ( live at 5000' so fuel burn is better
automaticly). If you are doing the work yourself the mods are not that
expensive ,if your paying someone to do it its not cheap! But then nothing is
when it comes to eng components.Bottom line is that im happy the way it is
and probably would do the same next time. But if you run a 160hp with with
the correct prop and build your airframe extremely clean you will be very
happy with the way the airplane performes.
Ryan RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Joel,
Build your own airplane you will be issued one after you recieve your
aiworthiness certificate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pitot Static Tubing - Aluminum to Poly-Flo |
After several days of removing the wings, shaving the spar, replacing
the wing, shaving the spacer, shaving some more, measuring,
worrying, and measuring some more, I finally got the rear spar
drilled to the fuselage on my 6. I must have removed and replaced
the wings 10 times. What a relief to have it done!
Now I need to run my fuel and pitot lines. I have 1/4" OD aluminum
tubing running from my pitot-static tube down the wing to the
fuselage. I'm inclined to use 1/4" OD Poly-Flo for my pitot and
static lines. I'd like to attach the poly-flo to the aluminum tube
outside the fuselage, go thru a grommet into the fuselage, and run
the poly-flo from there to the instruments.
I must have a blind spot or something, because I can't seem to find a
connector that will go from 1/4" OD aluminum tubing (mine is flared, with
AN818-4D connector attached) to 1/4" OD plastic tubing such as the
poly flo. Is poly-flo perhaps flexible enough to just force it over the
aluminum and safety wire it on? What have the folks who are ahead
of me done?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca (joehine) |
Hello all,
I have run into a small problem. I have a couple of salvaged mixture
cables, neither of witch will work well with the metal bracket that Vans
sells that attaches them at the carb.
Anyone aware a vendor that sells one they know will work?
The problem with the two that I have is that the metal parts on the carb end
are too long and need to be attached about six inches further back than the
area on the bracket designed to attach them.
Thanks
joe
C-FYTQ RV4 - finishing up and waiting till the snow goes!!!
joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca 13 James St.
506-452-1072 Home Douglas, NB
506-452-3495 Work Canada, E3A 7Z2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
>
>I inherited an HP 3C scanner in my office at work, and
>after hooking it up to my Macintosh, I was struck by a great idea.
>
>I took my "DuPont Fleet Colors" catalog and scanned the whole thing in.
>
>The results are pretty good, although I made no attempt to color-correct
>the scaner before I did this.
>
>I'd love to share these files with anyone who wants them, but the problem
>is that the filesize of each page is about 4 Meg. If anyone has any ideas,
>please let me know. The files are in Photoshop 3 format, by the way.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
Dave...
Have you considered compressing them with StuffIt or Compactor Pro? Don't
know if that would reduce them much if any, but be worth a try (on a copy,
of course!)...I think StuffIt Deluxe will even let you save it as a Zip
file for the PC drivers out there...'course, you could also just leave 'em
as StuffIt or Compactor files, be motivation for 'em to consider a
Macintosh!!! ;-)
Bill Mills
A36 Bonanza (currently) - Based KBEC
RV-8 (One of these days...*sigh*)
Mac IIci (PowerMac 604 or equivalent one of these days, too....)
ICT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
Previously written:
I am fabricating my F-405 bulkhead. I am stuck on the 2 F-405B angles.
The plans show a an .063 spacer on top of each angle. I don't see any
reference to attaching those spacers to the angles. Are they not attached
at this time? If they are, I assume flush rivets would be called for.
Whoever said there is no such thing as a stupid question obviously never
met me.
-----------------------------
In my case, I waited until I was fitting the forward floor which screws
with nutplates to the supporting angles in the seat ribs, back of the
spar carrythrough, and the F-405B angles. I then matchdrilled the spacers
to the angles and the floorboard. I then used the flush rivets which
attach the nutplates to the angles to also attach the spacer. Hope this
helps.
Canopy done, engine mounted and fuselage on the gear today!!!
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Does anyone know if there is a place on the net that list's Airwothiness
Directives? Thanks, again. Also, what are the options for 2 or 3 more
inches of legroom for the front seat of a rv-4? It doesn't appear the
pedals can be moved forward without hitting the firewall, and it may be
a major problem to move the seat back any more than an inch. Any ideas
out there? (short of an rv-8) Thanks..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Joe Rex wrote:
>
>
> I am fabricating my F-405 bulkhead. I am stuck on the 2 F-405B angles.
> The plans show a an .063 spacer on top of each angle. I don't see any
> reference to attaching those spacers to the angles. Are they not attached
> at this time? If they are, I assume flush rivets would be called for.
> Whoever said there is no such thing as a stupid question obviously never
> met me.
>
> Joe Rex
> RV-4 Fuselage
I can appreciate that statement. Ha!~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezer |
>
>Thanks for your response, but my question is where do you
>put the spacers in the pneumatic squeezer?
> Thanks,
> Jerry
Jerry, If I read you right, you place various thicknesses of AN3 washers
under either or both sets to produce the results you're after.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: engine designations |
flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different
> designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, etc.?
>
> Tim Sweemer
>
> RV4 Wings
This address has that and a lot more.
http://www.sierra.net/skyranch/article.htm
Good Luck!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static Tubing - Aluminum to Poly-Flo |
Tim Lewis wrote:
I'm inclined to use 1/4" OD Poly-Flo for my pitot and
> static lines. I'd like to attach the poly-flo to the aluminum tube
> outside the fuselage, go thru a grommet into the fuselage, and run
> the poly-flo from there to the instruments.
>
> I must have a blind spot or something, because I can't seem to find a
> connector that will go from 1/4" OD aluminum tubing (mine is flared, with
> AN818-4D connector attached) to 1/4" OD plastic tubing such as the
> poly flo.
There is such a connector. I did the exact same as you propose -and
believe me the poly-flo is much easier to work with (almost fun). I used
nylo-seal fittings. Just a second. Let me pull out my A/C/S cat...
O.K., what you need is a 266-n female connector. Compression on one side
and female pipe thread on the other. Use with AN816 into your b-nut
(AN818).
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
> First of all your engine wont be worth any less! There's a big market out
> there for 0320's and 0360's. The people looking for these engines are
mostly
> experimental aircraft builders.
> Im not going to get myself in a ringer by stating FARs because im not
> positivly sure but! The prop has nothing to do with the eng being
certified
> or uncertified. My understanding is that once an engine is installed on
any
> experimental aircraft no mater what prop you are running it is considered
> uncertified. In order for it to be recertified the eng must be torn down
and
> brought back within manufacturors tolerances. Reason being is you are
> working
> on this engine with a repairmans certificate. Technically only an A&P or
IA
> can maintain a certified eng or airframe.
> I know ill recieve plenty of hate mail for this one!
No, not hate mail, just my opinions. :) First, a lot of people have the
opinion that certified vs non-certified engines are worth the same $$. I
strongly disagree. A non-certified engine is worth a lot less to a
homebuilder because he has no idea what's inside. There is a good article in
the 14/16 years of RVator about someone that bought a non-certified engine
and had it quit after just a few hours. During the ensuing tear-down all
kinds of non-standard parts and practices were found. An experimental engine
is just that, experimental. Even though it's an aircraft engine the previous
owner could be using hardware store bolts in it. I wouldn't feel comfortable
buying a non-certified engine without a complete tear-down and rebuild back
to factory specs. If I'm going to do that, then why would I spend the same
amount on it as I would for a "certified" engine?
I agree that the prop has nothing to do with certification of the engine.
However, neither does the airframe. You can maintain your engine's certified
status by having a mechanic do the work on it. You can still do 90% of the
maintenance (spark plugs, oil changes, etc) yourself. Use your repaiman
certificate for the airframe only.
I opted for a new engine, will keep it certified, and IMO it will be worth
far more to a prospective buyer. Like I'm EVER going to sell it.. :)
Ed Bundy RV6A #23834 N427EM - flying
Eagle, ID
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Goeddel <tgoeddel(at)monmouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezer |
Hi Jerry,
>I just received a pneumatic squeezer today from Cleaveland Tools with
>no instuctions as how to set depth with spacers. Any advice or hints
>concerning this tool will be appreciated.
...
>Thanks for your response, but my question is where do you
>put the spacers in the pneumatic squeezer?
You just put washers (3/16" hole, steel) under the dimple die or rivet sets
you are using until you get the proper sized shop head when fully squeezed.
It's good to have some thin ones to get the final adjustment right. In the
instructions that came with my Avery squeezer, it suggested not putting all
of the washers on one set - divide them between the two sets.
Tom Goeddel
RV-6a (getting ready to put bulkhead in fuse jig...)
tgoeddel(at)monmouth.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cables |
> The problem with the two that I have is that the metal parts on the carb
end
> are too long and need to be attached about six inches further back than
the
> area on the bracket designed to attach them.
I had the same problem, I think that the ONLY cable that will work with that
bracket is the one Van's sells. Both of my carb cables have their
attatchment points behind the bracket. I just extended the bracket. The
bracket Van's sells makes a good starting point for customizing a bracket
that will work with your cable and engine setup.
Ed Bundy RV6A #23834 N427EM - flying
Eagle, ID
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: self-tapping sheet metal screws |
>I am building an RV-6A with steps. The plans call for the baggage area
>floor and rear-sidewall to be fastened with pop rivets which means that I
>will be unable to inspect the bolts that holds the steps which are under
>the baggage area floor. Has anyone tried using self-tapping sheet metal
>screws instead of plate-nuts to fasten the baggage area floor/walls? If
>these screws are OK (from Aircraft Spuce) for the baggage area floor then
>Dave Irwin RV-6'eh
Dave,
I'd sure stay with the nutplate/screw combination as they are structurally
superior to sheet metal screws. A little time spent now on the installation
of nutplates will be appreciated in the future. You can always put in an
inspection hole (with a nut plated) cover.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Doyal <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezer |
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Thanks for your response, but my question is where do you
> >put the spacers in the pneumatic squeezer?
> > Thanks,
> > Jerry
>
> Jerry, If I read you right, you place various thicknesses of AN3 washers
> under either or both sets to produce the results you're after.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
Thanks Bob that was my question. I wasn't sure if you spaced
under the ram or under the rivet sets. Mike from Cleaveland
tools sent me the instructions e-mail, Mike my fax number is
318-221-3504. Thank you both for responding.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone had major delays in getting stuff from Avery's lately? I''ve been
> Jim Brown (RV-6 in
> waiting)
I have had two day service on three recent orders.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna question |
I'm about to install an antenna for my VOR/LOC/GS. I would like to mount it
on
the belly in the area of the forward stick. Has anyone had any experience
with
this position? I'm concerned about "shadowing" while on an ILS approach.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z 130hrs
Albuquerque, NM >>
Hi Dan,
I seem to have lost an Email message from you.
I believe you asked what the price was for the Sportcraft wingtip NAV
antenna. It's $55 plus $5 handling and shipping to NM.
If you are interested in getting a Sportcraft antenna, just mail a check to:
Less Drag Products
P.O. Box 1195
Somis, Ca. 93066
Please identify which wingtip you would like to install it in, and include
the address which you would like to have the antenna sent.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static Tubing - Aluminum to Poly-Flo |
>
>
>I must have a blind spot or something, because I can't seem to find a
>connector that will go from 1/4" OD aluminum tubing (mine is flared, with
>AN818-4D connector attached) to 1/4" OD plastic tubing such as the
>poly flo. Is poly-flo perhaps flexible enough to just force it over the
>aluminum and safety wire it on? What have the folks who are ahead
>of me done?
>
I used the AN807-4D fitting. My plastic tubing was 1/4" ID, though.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static Tubing - Aluminum to Poly-Flo |
<< I must have a blind spot or something, because I can't seem to find a
connector that will go from 1/4" OD aluminum tubing (mine is flared, with
AN818-4D connector attached) to 1/4" OD plastic tubing such as the
poly flo. Is poly-flo perhaps flexible enough to just force it over the
aluminum and safety wire it on? What have the folks who are ahead
of me done?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
----------------------- >>
Hi All,
I think you have to go through a pipe thread fitting to get there. AN816-4D
nipple or AN822-4D elbow (1/4" flare tube to 1/8" male pipe thread), and
266-N female connector (1/8" female pipe thread to 1/4" Nylo-seal tube).
Sorry about all that sexist language :-)
Not a very clean solution, but it's worked for the last eight years.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morristec(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static Tubing - Aluminum to Poly-Flo |
Tim,
Swagelok makes an AN to Compression adapter in plastic. BTW why don't you
just use the plasitc compression fittings on the aluminum tube. It works
great and they are designed for it. Of course this applys to pitot and
static only. I think that my wings were on and off as many times also.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)aol.com
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Ed,
I agree with most of what your saying,but remember an uncertified engine can
still be and should be maintained the same way a certified one is. If you
keep proper logs, yellow tags and invoices for work completed. And if ADs are
complied with as they should be anyway the eng should be worth the same
amount. I know of many people myself included who have gotten less than what
they paid for in an eng that was certified. My engine was 0 since major when
I bought it. It lasted all of 2 hrs before I had oil runnig out of the carb
and the plugs were fowled. Turns out some shade tree mechanic installed the
wrong rings and they had broken in 2 of the cylinders. Needless to say I tore
the whole engine down and started from scratch! EVERYONE REMEMBER LET THE
BUYER BEWARE!!!!!!!!!!!!! Be very carefull when buying an overhauled engine
unless you know the person or establishment doing the job.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GWDFLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Systems |
In a message dated 02/08/97 8:22:16 AM, you wrote:
>Hello group,
>Now that all of you have had a chance to read, digest and thouroughly
>understand all the information presented in the excellent S. A. article (Jan
>97) on exhaust systems, I am interested in how these recommendations compare
>with what's being done by most RVers.
Didn't read the article, but have had quite an experience with one of Alan
Toles system on an RV3. I had several problems with cracking at the flanges
and "Y's" until I installed ball swivel joints to releive the stress in the
areas where the pipes were cracking. I haven't had a problem with Alan's
maligned exhaust system since. Don't know if this comment is in context with
article or your interest.
Gary Dalleske
Foster City CA
RV3 N13KE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cables |
>I have run into a small problem. I have a couple of salvaged mixture
>cables, neither of witch will work well with the metal bracket that Vans
>sells that attaches them at the carb.
Joe;
I ran into the same thing. I had to use the Vans bracket as a starting
point to build out a bracket to the proper length. It is sort of Rube
Goldberg, but it works. If you want more details as to how I did it,
contact me direct.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
Has anyone beefed up the small flap links? Has anyone had any trouble
with them? A 3 1/2" piece of aluminum tubing just doesn't appear to be
strong enough to operate the flaps. I'm considering substituting a piece
of solid rod, either aluminum or 4130 and then threading the ends and
using bearings that will screw onto them. Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: self-tapping sheet metal screws |
>>I am building an RV-6A with steps. The plans call for the baggage area
>>floor and rear-sidewall to be fastened with pop rivets which means that I
>>will be unable to inspect the bolts that holds the steps which are under
>>the baggage area floor. Has anyone tried using self-tapping sheet metal
>>screws instead of plate-nuts to fasten the baggage area floor/walls? If
>>these screws are OK (from Aircraft Spuce) for the baggage area floor then
>>could they be used for the cockpit floor as well? I am looking for
>>something simpler than using plate-nuts - might just put an inspection door
>>in the floor as an alternative.
>
Hey, why not use 3M VHB doublesided sticky tape to bond the steps to the
>airframe?? ;>)
>
>John Ammeter
>ammeterj(at)seanet.com
Why not use the tape to bond velcro to the frame & floor boards? All the
other ideas sound non-structural, so why not make it really quick & simple?
Charlie England
england(at)vicksburg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
Joe Rex wrote:
>
>
> I am fabricating my F-405 bulkhead. I am stuck on the 2 F-405B angles.
> The plans show a an .063 spacer on top of each angle.
> clip
Hi Joe-
When I fabricated these parts I laid out the positions for the
nutplates then placed two AN-426-3-3.5 tack rivets between the nutplate
locations. I then drilled the floor plate and the angle at the same time
then attached the nutplates.
Hope this helps.
Carroll Bird
Buffalo Gap TX.
RV-4 Empannage attached to fuselage, all controls in place to empannage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
<< What's involved in getting a repairman's licence. >>
If you are British as your spelling of license would indicate I don't know
how the limey's do it. But here in the states you build an airplane, you get
it signed off by the FAA, you send in a simple form, the FAA sends you a
certificate and that entitles you to maintain and perform the annual
inspections on that aircraft only forever. Very straightforward.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine designations |
<< Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different
designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G,
etc.? >>
Yes, call Lycoming. The phone number is in the Yeller Pages.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cables |
<< I have run into a small problem. I have a couple of salvaged mixture
cables, neither of witch will work well with the metal bracket that Vans
sells that attaches them at the carb. >>
Joe-
The Van's brackets appear to be designed to use the Cablecraft control
cables, available thru Chief Aircraft. The phone number is in the Yeller
Pages.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
Scott,
I assume you have changed the engine to use a fixed pitch prop from it's
original configuration to use a constant speed. If so, then a 337 needs to be
completed and filed by an AI, and the data plate is supposed to be altered to
indicate the model change, according to the service instructions that came
with my new 0-320 a few years back. If this is not done, then the FAA is
probably right in saying that the data plate must be removed, because you have
performed a major alteration to the engine; not because you are using a wood
prop. I wonder what the FAA guy would say is you were using a Sensenich
certified wood prop, as many RVers have?
I think you should get the aforementioned 337 completed and then,
diplomatically, ask for a cite of the appropriate regulation. Like most of
the other responders, I would not remove the data plate until I got a
definitive answer in writing.
Les Williams
RV-6AQB #60027 rec'd 12/96
RV-6A #20299 Completed 4/92, sold 10/95
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Scott Johnson
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 1997 3:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ?
I was surprised today when I got a call from the FAA. They had received my
paperwork and indicated they would try to certify my aircraft sometime in
March.
They said make sure you drill off the engine data plate and turn it into the
FAA. They said since it will be used with a non-certified prop ( ED Sterba
Wood Prop ), the engine will immediately become non-certified once it is
started with the wood prop. However, if it had been a constant speed prop
that was certified for the engine, the data plate could have stayed.
The engine will thus stay non-certified till it is torn down, and overhauled
by a certified shop. It seems to me that my new $19,000 Lycoming engine
just became worth alot less.
Is this normal procedure ?
Had I know this before I would have spent the extra for a certified prop
just to protect my engine investment.
I called Vans today and they won't have a constant speed prop for a 180 HP
engine for 18 weeks.
Does anybody have any suggestions ?
Scott rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | engine designations |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC167B.EA002DC0
I went back and started to file the 2 reems of paper I have printed from =
the RV-list (who said computers would reduce paper work?) and I found =
the post by Herman Dierks. This is the best writing I have seen to =
explain the Lyc. engine numbers. It is in the archive and it was entered =
Nov. 8, 1996 under the subject * Old Engines?? * I think if you search =
on that exact topic for 1996 it will show up. If you can't get it, I can =
fax it to you. It is 5 pages long. E-mail me off list if you need any =
further help Al prober(at)iwaynet.net
=20
<< Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different
designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G,
etc.? >>
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC167B.EA002DC0
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC167B.EA002DC0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Mal,
Check the archives. This thread was discussed at length in the last few
months.
Les
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of juno.com!rvbildr(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 1997 6:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flap Linkage
Has anyone beefed up the small flap links? Has anyone had any trouble
with them? A 3 1/2" piece of aluminum tubing just doesn't appear to be
strong enough to operate the flaps. I'm considering substituting a piece
of solid rod, either aluminum or 4130 and then threading the ends and
using bearings that will screw onto them. Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WELCOME TO THE MACHINE <PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.intel.com> |
SAME HERE ON THE AVERY CATALOG. I'VE BEENS WAITING 3 OR SO WEEKS. I FIGURED MY
LOCAL POST OFFICE NEEDED THEM MORE THAN I.
PAT KIRKPATRICK
WAITING ON MY -6A TAIL KIT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static Tubing - Aluminum to Poly-Flo |
<< I'm inclined to use 1/4" OD Poly-Flo for my pitot and
static lines. I'd like to attach the poly-flo to the aluminum tube
outside the fuselage, go thru a grommet into the fuselage, and run
the poly-flo from there to the instruments. >>
I'd suggest some 7/32 auto vacuum line as a connector for two square cut ends
( no fittings to worry about).
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-405, and a slight mod |
<< The plans show a an .063 spacer on top of each angle. I don't see any
reference to attaching those spacers to the angles. Are they not attached
at this time? If they are, I assume flush rivets would be called for. >>
You are correct- put enough to hold the spacers in place- maybe two. You'll
be putting nutplates here (to hold the removeable section of floor), and also
some CS4-4 rivets (to hold the less-removeable rear section).
While you are looking at the plans for this area, look at the floor pc pages,
specifically the left rear floor section. It has a sort of "L" shape. Make
this pc into two pcs- a left pc, and a center pc. I've found that it's
easier to fit the rear seat floor sections if that area is made from 3
sections, instead of two. Make the left and right pcs mirror images of each
other, and a third pc is fitted in the middle.
Also, you may find that the elev tube rubs a bit on the stiffeners at the
rear of the center section, just in front of the 407 bulkhead. You may need
to "malletize" them a bit for more clearance.
Check six!
Mark
mlfred(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | Re: Unpacking Wing Kit |
Phil wrote:
>Steve, hi
>
>I clamped one flange at a time (the one that goes against the spar) in
>the vise and tapped them apart using a wooden dowel and hammer.
>
>Phil
>
I just want to confirm that this method works very well. I used a wood
block instead of a dowel to distribute the force a bit more. All those
who have yet to order a wing kit would be well advised to file this
technique for separating the wing ribs.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Joel,
> Build your own airplane you will be issued one after you recieve your
> aiworthiness certificate.
But, you have to submit a request application for it, about the size of
a large postcard or instant credit card application. Tough, isn't it?
PatK - RV-6A - Back on the wings after a two-month hiatus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting practices (more) |
Robert Fritz wrote:
> But what I did find is that I was wrong regarding my comment that bolted joints
> should not rely on the bolt as a shear-load resisting member. It seems that
> steel structures such as bridges do indeed use the bolts in shear.
>
> I stand corrected.
>
> BUT..... only steel structures are referenced as being such a joint
I saw a couple of other replies expanding on this, but there are many
structures where bolts are used in shear. Clevis joints leap to mind.
The spar-bulkhead joints. The bolts that hold the landing gear into the
mounts. And so on. These are usually hardened and/or close tolerance.
However, the bottom line is: There are appropriate shear applications
for bolts.
Just a side note, a bush hog (large mower on a tractor's three point
hitch, powered from the tractor's Power Take-Off) has a bolt that ties
its driveshaft to the PTO. It's job is to break should a blade hit a
solid object, preventing excessive damage to the drivetrain, and it is
called a shear-pin.
PatK - RV-6A - Wing progress no longer 'stalled'
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Linkage |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Mal,
I've got 835+ Hrs on my -6A with no problems with the flap
linkage......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>the small flap links? Has anyone had any trouble with them? A 3 1/2"
>piece of aluminum tubing just doesn't appear to be strong enough to
>operate the flaps. I'm considering substituting a piece
>of solid rod, either aluminum or 4130 and then threading the ends and
>using bearings that will screw onto them. Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
<< Like I'm EVER going to sell it.. :)
Ed, You never know what may happen in the future. I had to sell mine.
Said the smae thing you did. Will have another "6" , though , in the near
future
Dave D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
mike atkinson wrote:
Dear Elon,
> I do believe yellow is the color that can be detected from the furthest
> distance, also green tends to blend in with the vegetation or trees in
> the warmer months.-----------------------------------------
Mike:
The magazine "The Aviation Consumer", October 1995, No.12, page 11
states "Our eyes are most sensitive to greens and yellows and focus
those colors most accrately". Lots of posting mentioned the importance
of a contrasting background. Obviously, either color will have its
optium background. How would yellow do over a mid-west wheat field vs
green? But that was not my point. I was mearly point out the "eye
sensitivity" to green. How or why it would be used is left up to the
individual.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine designations |
>
>Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different
>designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, etc.?
>
>Tim Sweemer
>
>RV4 Wings
Tim, There is a chart in the builders manual (Lyc's list) that gives the
information. At first glance it would appear you need a PhD in cryptologyt
to get anything out of the chart, but just take an engine you are aware of
and follow its lineage back and the information will make more sense. The
chart is in chapter 11 which comes with the finish kit and is also in the
Preview Plans Set. Bill PS: The more you use the chart, the more
useful it becomes.
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Linkage |
<< Has anyone beefed up the small flap links? Has anyone had any trouble
with them? A 3 1/2" piece of aluminum tubing just doesn't appear to be
strong enough to operate the flaps. I'm considering substituting a piece
of solid rod, either aluminum or 4130 and then threading the ends and
using bearings that will screw onto them. >>
Mal-
I did replace the aluminum links per plans with 4130 steel tubing based on a
comment made by Tom Green. I also used a normal (non-studded) rod end
bearing (same as the top one) on the lower end of the link, a real AN4 bolt
and a steel spacer (was a 1/4" ID drill bushing) in lieu of the studded
bearing which the manufacturer does not load rate. I also used a large OD
capture washer on the inboard side of the bearing in case the race breaks
formation with the rest of the bird. This to avoid the dreaded split flap
condition.
-Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Systems |
>Hello group,
>Now that all of you have had a chance to read, digest and thouroughly
>understand all the information presented in the excellent S. A. article (Jan
>97) on exhaust systems, I am interested in how these recommendations compare
>with what's being done by most RVers.
>>Didn't read the article, but have had quite an experience with one of Alan
Toles system on an RV3. I had several problems with cracking at the flanges
>>and "Y's" until I installed ball swivel joints to releive the stress in the
>>areas where the pipes were cracking. I haven't had a problem with Alan's
>>maligned exhaust system since. Don't know if this comment is in context
>>with
>>article or your interest.
Gary,
Thanks for your response. Actually the last part of my message was chopped
so I'll restate it here.
Four different exhaust configurations were evaluated on the basis of
achieving the best negative pressure at exhaust valve opening and again at
the intake-exhaust valve overlap portion of the stroke. From best to worst
the results were:
1. 4 into 1 with 1.75 x 34.5 in equal length headers and a 2.25 x 19.5 in
collector.
2. Tri-Y with the same headers into two 1.875 x 18 in intermediates and then
into a 2 x18.5 in tailpipe.
3.Just slightly less favorable was the 4 into 2 crossover with the same
headers into two 1.875 x 18 in tailpipes.
4.Four straight stacks 35.25 in. long.
Obviously there are other factors to take into account but they weren't
considered here. Also the different choices weren't quantified so there is
no way to numericaly compare them.
The main interest I have is determining the most popular configuration and
why.
Joel Harding (RV8 wings)
ab320flyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static Tubing - Aluminum to Poly-Flo |
Tim:
>
>I must have a blind spot or something, because I can't seem to find a
>connector that will go from 1/4" OD aluminum tubing (mine is flared, with
>AN818-4D connector attached) to 1/4" OD plastic tubing such as the
>poly flo. Is poly-flo perhaps flexible enough to just force it over the
>aluminum and safety wire it on? What have the folks who are ahead
>of me done?
Ah yes. WHoever is the first to make a PolyFLo-To-AN fitting will sell a
bundle of them. What you will have to do is:
1. put a B-Nut (AN818 nut and AN819 sleeve) on the aluminum tube.
2. screw the flared end of an AN816 nipple into the B-Nut.
3. The other end of the AN816 is pipe thread. Screw a Nylo-Seal 266-N
fitting into *that*
Kludgy, but it works.
BEst Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
brakes and empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Bill:
>Have you considered compressing them with StuffIt or Compactor Pro?
StuffIt cuts the file sizes in half (2 Meg) which is still not interesting.
(It isn't interesting unless each file is small enough to fit on a floppy.)
>.'course, you could also just leave 'em
>as StuffIt or Compactor files, be motivation for 'em to consider a
>Macintosh!!! ;-)
Yup. I've also considered telling people that I would send the files to
anyone who would send me the ZIP cartridge to put them on. I'm hesitant to
just post them on a public web site due to the possibility of copyright
issues.
I *will* say this: I scanned the rv-6 line drawing from Van's flyer into
Photoshop. With that and the scanned DuPont Fleet Colors book, it is REAL
easy to play with paint schemes.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
empennage and brakes
PowerMac 6100 (at work they gave me a PowerMac 8500/132!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine designations |
Bill Benedict wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different
> >designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, etc.?
New to this list and I saw this list at
http://gtravis.ucs.edu/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html
It's a long file (36pg.)But it's somewere to start.
David Price
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| From: | Bob Japundza <beeg(at)netusa1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 belly skins |
Chris Brooks wrote:
>
>
> It appears to me that the bottoms of 2 bays aft of the baggage
> compartment have the largest areas of flat unsupported skin on the
> aircraft. with the recent postings regarding rumble & oil-canning, I'm
> considering adding 2 strips of J-channel to the floor of these aft 2
> bays, and 1 strip to the 3rd bay.I don't think there is a problem in
> these areas, I just like the idea of the skins being supported. Any
> comments pro or con on this idea?
>
> Chris Brooks RV-6
> biulding fuselage
> BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
I had the same problem when doing my aft belly skins--but I just added
one segment of j-channel down the center. Took the oil canning right
out and the guys at vans said it would be ok.
Bob Japundza
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| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Says Drill Off My Engine Data Plate ? |
> here in the states you build an airplane, you get
> it signed off by the FAA, you send in a simple form, the FAA sends you a
> certificate
here in Virginia the FAA has a novel method for issuance of repairman
certificates: you build an airplane, get the airworthiness sign-off, send an
application to the Richmond FSDO, and they make you travel down there in
person to sign the certificate. No copy is kept, but you sign the original
while the man behind the counter pretends to watch you do so. Then with a
grunt from him you are on your way. At least that's how they did it back in
'92. Maybe the kinder, gentler, reduced-b. s. FAA has changed its hazing
policy for homebuilder mechanic wannabe's.
Bill
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| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
Hi All -
I've got a recurring problem with my primer going on "fuzzy" at first.
I'm shooting with the usual small
touch-up gun at about 30 PSI, and it's coming out stringy and fuzzy like
it's drying before it hits the aluminum. After a minute of spraying or
so, it's fine again. It's always the first minute of spraying. I've
been trying everything I can think of: cleaning the gun as well as
possible, spraying straight laquer thinner for a minute first. Doesn't
help.
Anybody have any ideas? 's pretty darned
expensive, I'd hate to waste it by having to prime my plywood board
every time before my parts.
Of course, I go to bed every night knowing that *that* board is never
going to corrode!!!
_________________________
Mitchell Faatz San Jose, CA
N727MF reserved
RV-6AQME, about to hang left aileron
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| From: | j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net |
| Subject: | RV6 Sliding Canopy |
I have run into a problem that has me stumped so thought I had better ask
for help. I mounted my roll bar according to plans. When I put my canopy
frame on, I find there is a 5/8 in gap between the roll bar and the canopy
frame on the right side corner. I unbolted the roll bar and squared it up
with the canopy frame and everything looks fine except that the roll bar is
5/8 in closer to the firewall on the left side. I have the center slider
track installed temporarily on top of the fuselage in the correct position.
I cannot figure out why I am 5/8 in off. I called Van's and they could not
offer much help.
I can see two options:drill new holes for the left side of the roll bar and
January 30, 1997 - February 10, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-cl