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RV-Archive.digest.vol-cm
February 10, 1997 - February 21, 1997

mount it so that it is 5/8 in closer to the firewall than the right side or cut the left and center tubes on the canopy frame and shorten them so the left side of the frame is 5/8 in shorter than the right side. Can anyone provide some words of wisdom that may help? John Henley (j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net) On hold for advice ________________________________________________________________________________
From: sheinlein(at)VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Subject: Primer Fuzzies...
Mitch, I've had the same problem occassionally. You didn't mention what brand of primer you were using, but if it's Variprime, here's what I did to fix it. 1. Buy the SLOW drying converter (I forget the number for it) 2. Turn down the pressure to as low as you can, without getting out glops when you spray. Also, stay close to the piece. Stephen Heinlein sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Timothy J. Etherington" <tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com>
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezer
Jerry, I was like you when I first started. I can't believe that it can't be more scientific but it also tells me that there is a lot of slop either way. Also some times the tool seems to squeeze a little more or a little less. Usually if it is set up it will do great work. I have some info written down at home I will send to you tomorrow if you can wait that will get you in the right ball park. It was done by rookie so you are warned but it has been giving good results. As for where to put the washers, they go over the shaft of the sets and then insert the shafts into the tool. Put the larger washers on first, the smaller ones tend to curl. It is flatter closer to the tool than the set. This is all assuming you are using the flat and rivet sets from Clevland. Tim Etherington tjetheri@cedar-rapids.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net>
Subject: Re: engine designations
David Price wrote: > > > Bill Benedict wrote: > > > > > > > > > >Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different > > >designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, etc.? > > New to this list and I saw this list at > http://gtravis.ucs.edu/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html > It's a long file (36pg.)But it's somewere to start. > David PriceSorry wrong address its http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html There is also a list of applications,its http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/Engines/Lycoming/applic.html David Price PP-ASEL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Subject: Re: Mixture Cables
<> I couldn't get Van's bracket to work with my cables either so I got the bracket to work the old fashioned way - built my own bracket. The result is a better bracket then the one I bought from Van's. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Subject: Re: Frederick RV Event
I have attended this event in the past. I usually stopped on the way to SNF. The forum is geared towards BUILDERS of RV's. In the past, if you had a flying RV the event was free if you gave rides. I got the invite in the mail and to my surprise, they want $40 from everybody this year. Now I hate to sound like a cheep-skate, but, why would I want to spend $40 to give rides? Don't get me wrong, if you are thinking about building, or you are building and RV by all means go. Just don't expect to get a ride. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Primer fuzzies
I assume you are using Variprime. If that's the case, use DuPont 8100s reducer to slow down the dry time. Chris > > > Hi All - > > I've got a recurring problem with my primer going on "fuzzy" at first. > I'm shooting with the usual small > touch-up gun at about 30 PSI, and it's coming out stringy and fuzzy like > it's drying before it hits the aluminum. After a minute of spraying or > so, it's fine again. It's always the first minute of spraying. I've > been trying everything I can think of: cleaning the gun as well as > possible, spraying straight laquer thinner for a minute first. Doesn't > help. > > Anybody have any ideas? 's pretty darned > expensive, I'd hate to waste it by having to prime my plywood board > every time before my parts. > > Of course, I go to bed every night knowing that *that* board is never > going to corrode!!! > > _________________________ > Mitchell Faatz San Jose, CA > N727MF reserved > RV-6AQME, about to hang left aileron > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: self-tapping sheet metal screws
I would recommend against using the sheet-metal screws. I put some stuff under the baggage floor (one side only actually) that I wanted to have access to, but rather than nut-plate the whole floorboard, I cut it in half, riveted the aft half in, and nut- plated the forward half. Saved a _few_ nutplates, although I did have to add a doubler where the two halves joined. I think the main benefit of this over just nut-plating the whole floorboard is that it's easier to maneuver the smaller piece out of there what it would be if it were the whole floorboard. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-LIST: HANDLING RV E-MAIL DATA
Date: Feb 10, 1997
For new subscribers I have outlined a system of how to handle all this E-mail data. There should be many on the RV-List who are, like me, on the steep side of learning the systems. I am using Eudora Light software (obtainable free of charge from ATT). I was on the verge of 'unsubscribing' from the RV-List for the simple reason of being overwhelmed with data . So much interesting reading, so little time. Printing out for future references would take time and reems of paper. The question what to keep and what not to keep posed a problem. Also, non-RV-List E-mails could be trasched without reading. Here is what I do : 1. Sort all new mail by subject (This is particularly useful when the mail has accumulated). 2. Check top and bottom of list for non RV-related items and read same. 3. Scan through subjects of current interest. 4. Hightlight all new mail and trasch (will result in blank IN box). 5. Sort the TRASH file by subject and delete sections of no future interest like mail related to RV-4 when you are building and RV-6/A ( I do this as needed or every couple of weeks) . When I need to look something up, I use the subject-sorted trash file and may print only the best of a certain subject. Any better ideas, please post these. Thanks. Lothar* Klingmuller = lothark(at)worldnet.att.net = Denver - (303) 922-2329 h & FAX~~ -6A continueing w/ fuse'ge when garage is build . *(pron'd: "low-TARR") ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: caummisa(at)arn.net (Richard Caummisar)
Subject: Re: engine designations
Thanks David for pointing to the home page with ALL the Lycoming engine information.........I've been wondering about how to decode those engine spec numbers too......but you left something out of the page address It should read: http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html >> >Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different >> >designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, etc.? > >New to this list and I saw this list at >http://gtravis.ucs.edu/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html >It's a long file (36pg.)But it's somewere to start. >David Price ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: RV6 Sliding Canopy
My sliding canopy was also slightly "whopper-jawed" when I got it. But I found that it was necessary to "tweak" it quite a bit to get it to more closely match the roll bar and longerons, and also to get the rear pins to come out in the right place. Many hours with a pipe bender later, it was square with the roll bar. I don't know if it's really kosher to go bending your frame with a pipe bender, but I found that was what it took to make it fit. I used a cheapo conduit bender that was made for aluminum thinwall electrical conduit. The inner diameter of the bender was too small for the 4130, so I ground out the inner diameter with a rotary file (the thing is aluminum and was pretty easy to modify). I never did get it quite right at the front, so I'm having to do some shimming to make the main bubble match the windscreen. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing > From: worldnet.att.net!j.henley(at)matronics.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RV6 Sliding Canopy > Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 23:30:50 +0000 > > > I have run into a problem that has me stumped so thought I had better ask > for help. I mounted my roll bar according to plans. When I put my canopy > frame on, I find there is a 5/8 in gap between the roll bar and the canopy > frame on the right side corner. I unbolted the roll bar and squared it up > with the canopy frame and everything looks fine except that the roll bar is > 5/8 in closer to the firewall on the left side. I have the center slider > track installed temporarily on top of the fuselage in the correct position. > I cannot figure out why I am 5/8 in off. I called Van's and they could not > offer much help. > > I can see two options:drill new holes for the left side of the roll bar and > mount it so that it is 5/8 in closer to the firewall than the right side or > cut the left and center tubes on the canopy frame and shorten them so the > left side of the frame is 5/8 in shorter than the right side. > > Can anyone provide some words of wisdom that may help? > > John Henley (j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net) > On hold for advice > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LesDrag(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Subject: Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna question
I'm about to install an antenna for my VOR/LOC/GS. I would like to mount it on the belly in the area of the forward stick. Has anyone had any experience with this position? I'm concerned about "shadowing" while on an ILS approach. Dan Boudro RV-4 N9167Z 130hrs Albuquerque, NM >> Hi Dan, I seem to have lost an Email message from you. I believe you asked what the price was for the Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna. It's $55 plus $5 handling and shipping to NM. If you are interested in getting a Sportcraft antenna, just mail a check to: Less Drag Products P.O. Box 1195 Somis, Ca. 93066 Please identify which wingtip you would like to install it in, and include the address which you would like to have the antenna sent. Jim Ayers LesDrag(at)aol.com http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot Static Tubing - Aluminum to Poly-Flo
Tim, I just did exactly what you described, I pushed a piece of poly tubing over the aluminum, and put a small clamp round it. The chances of it coming off is remote, I can't even pull it off. I did put a small flange on the aluminum, to make even more sure. John Almost ready to paint. >--------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net>
Subject: Re: engine designations
Richard Caummisar wrote: > > > Thanks David for pointing to the home page with ALL the Lycoming > engine information.........I've been wondering about how to decode > those engine spec numbers too......but you left something out of the page > address > > It should read: > > http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html > > > >> >Is there a chart or something that tells us what all the different > >> >designations mean at the end of an engine number like: D1A, H2AD, E2G, > etc.? > > > >New to this list and I saw this list at > >http://gtravis.ucs.edu/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html > >It's a long file (36pg.)But it's somewere to start. > >David Price Richard thanks for pointing that out(I have a hard time typing no less copying at the same time).Noticed it this morning and added a list of applications for engines. http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/Engines/Lycoming/applic.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: Fuel Lube
Fellow RVers, I received 12 orders for fuel lube, filled 7 cans and ran out. I have some more on order but it could be the end of the month before it is shipped. So, if anyone who needs the stuff right away would E-mail me (off-list), I'll make sure you get some. Otherwise, it's first come, first "lubed". Shucks, now it seems that I'll have another lifetime supply of the stuff, on hand. Bob Skinner 43461 Rd 757, Lexington, NE 68850 Thanks, Bob Skinner BSkinner(at)navix.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Data overload
From: lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald)
Date: Feb 10, 1997
I did it this way. I opened a directory called flight, then a sub-directory called RV-6, just for my E-mail coming from this list. Then I opened the following files within the RV-6 directory. Addresses, construction, antennae, Battery, Cowling, controls, cockpit, c.g., canopy, chemicals, nav.-com, gear, inst. pnl, flaps, faa, fuel sys. instruments, engine, legal, misc., oil cooling, oil cooler, paint, props, pro-seal, rivet, and junocopy. I move mail of interest to junocopy, so I can look at it more carefully later. In junocopy.doc I can edit and shorten the pieces, then cut and paste them to one of the other files. All of this is no big deal and I wouldn't bother mentioning it but after I get it edited and shortened I print these files, from time to time, then punch them and put them in a three ring binder so I can read them when I get to that part of the project. Right now there are q's @ a's going on about F-405, Oil canning,and Pieces in the baggage hold that don't fit. This stuff is going right over the top of my head. But I'll save it and when I get to that part of the project, I'll have that stuff real handy. Larry lm4(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: RV-LIST: HANDLING RV E-MAIL DATA
> >For new subscribers I have outlined a system of how to handle all this >E-mail data. Agreed to first 4 points. >5. Sort the TRASH file by subject and delete sections of no future >interest like mail related to RV-4 when you are building and RV-6/A ( I >do this as needed or every couple of weeks) . > >When I need to look something up, I use the subject-sorted trash file and >may print only the best of a certain subject. The above will be good for some people, but doesn't work for me. I clear out my trash every day. If there's something I need to find, I go to the archive at http://dunkin.Princeton.EDU/.rvlist/ and search there. I hardly ever print anything. Frank. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass; Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read". PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!" http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ | -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: Flap Linkage
rvbildr(at)juno.com wrote: > >Has anyone beefed up the small flap links? Has anyone had any trouble >with them? A 3 1/2" piece of aluminum tubing just doesn't appear to be >strong enough to operate the flaps. I'm considering substituting a piece >of solid rod, either aluminum or 4130 and then threading the ends and >using bearings that will screw onto them. Mal rvbildr(at)juno.com We hashed this out a few months ago here on the list. Consider that the thread on the rod-end are in contact with many more threads in the tubing than they woould be in contact with a standard AN nut. Even though a single thread in the aluminum is weaker than the steel, the conbined strength of all the threads in the aluminum (for the full length of the rod-end) probably exceeds the strength offered by a single AN nut. And, after all, there are over three thousand of those flap links flying (two per RV) with no recorded failures. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart The fuselage sure does look pretty up on its gear with the empennage installed! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Fuselage Jig Available
RV-List, I have a RV-6 fuselage jig that needs a new home. It is constructed of wood with laminated header beam material for the side rails. If you are willing to come get it and use it it's yours. I am located in Lubbock, TX (LIA) which is about 120 mi. south of Amarillo, TX. Anyone within a couple hundred miles interested? Stan Blanton RV-6 Fuselage coming out of jig (finally) Ph. 806-799-4664 75472.372(at)compuserve.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net>
Subject: Re: RV6 Sliding Canopy
worldnet.att.net!j.henley(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > I have run into a problem that has me stumped so thought I had better ask > for help. I mounted my roll bar according to plans. When I put my canopy > frame on, I find there is a 5/8 in gap between the roll bar and the canopy > frame on the right side corner. The canopy frame warps when it is welded up. I think everybody has problems them. Don't move your roll bar. Try bending the frame to make it fit. I know some guys have cut and rewelded them to get a good fit. In the end you will probably have to use shims somewere. Bud Newhall -- __|__ __|__ ____(+)____ ____(+)____ ' ' ' ' ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: HANDLING RV E-MAIL DATA
Date: Feb 10, 1997
------ =_NextPart_000_01BC1792.9252DF60 Well this topic probably got started from my comment about two reems of = printed data......This is my logic behind that. I read the list two to = three times per day usually. I at least read it at night before I go to = bed. If I find something that I feel I'll need when I get to that stage = of building, I print it and file it under it's proper heading. Like if I = see some thing on the fuselage in general that I think I better know = when I get to that part then I print it and file it under fuselage....or = flaps....or wings......or control surfaces....etc...Then when I get to = doing that section of the plane I scan that file for the stuff I need to = watch out for. It works for me...Also I can carry that stuff into the = shop for hands on referance. Thats how I found that engine data from = Herman, I looked under engine. Al prober(at)iwaynet.net (Still on the = Empanage) ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC1792.9252DF60 eJ8+IjcBAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAENgAQAAgAAAAIAAgABBJAG AKQDAAACAAAAFAAAAAMAADAFAAAACwAPDgAAAAACAf8PAQAAAEkAAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmdbgDd AQ9UAgAAAABydi1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20AU01UUABydi1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20A AAAAHgACMAEAAAAFAAAAU01UUAAAAAAeAAMwAQAAABYAAABydi1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20A AAAeABoAAQAAABQAAABSRVBPUlQuSVBNLk5PVEUuTkRSAEAAMgBgfAYYvBe8AQMABAwAAAAAAwAF DP////8DABUMAAAAEAMA/g8GAAAAHgABEAEAAABEAAAATm8gdHJhbnNwb3J0IHByb3ZpZGVyIHdh cyBhdmFpbGFibGUgZm9yIGRlbGl2ZXJ5IHRvIHRoaXMgcmVjaXBpZW50LgAeAAEwAQAAABgAAAAn cnYtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tJwACAQswAQAAABsAAABTTVRQOlJWLUxJU1RATUFUUk9OSUNT LkNPTQAAAwAAOQAAAAACARI6AQAAAEkAAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmdbgDdAQ9UAgAAAABydi1saXN0 QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20AU01UUABydi1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20AAAAAHgATOgEAAAAYAAAA J3J2LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbScAAgEUOgEAAAAbAAAAU01UUDpSVi1MSVNUQE1BVFJPTklD Uy5DT00AAAsAQDoBAAAAAgH2DwEAAAAEAAAAAAAABQ4AAAADAAAwBgAAAAsADw4BAAAAAgH/DwEA AABJAAAAAAAAAIErH6S+oxAZnW4A3QEPVAIAAAAAcnYtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tAFNNVFAA cnYtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tAAAAAB4AAjABAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgADMAEAAAAWAAAA cnYtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tAAAAHgAaAAEAAAAIAAAASVBNLk5PVEUDABUMAQAAAAMA/g8G AAAAHgABMAEAAAAYAAAAJ3J2LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbScAAgELMAEAAAAbAAAAU01UUDpS Vi1MSVNUQE1BVFJPTklDUy5DT00AAAMAADkAAAAAAgEUOgEAAAAQAAAA6lgseHyD0BGxsERFU1QA AAsAQDoBAAAAAgH2DwEAAAAEAAAAAAAABkfHAQiABwAYAAAASVBNLk1pY3Jvc29mdCBNYWlsLk5v dGUAMQgBBIABABoAAAAgIEhBTkRMSU5HIFJWIEUtTUFJTCBEQVRBADwGAQWAAwAOAAAAzQcCAAoA FAAlAA8AAQApAQEGAAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNyb3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIASCAAwAOAAAAzQcC AAoAEwApACoAAQBHAQEJgAEAIQAAAEVBNTgyQzc4N0M4M0QwMTFCMUIwNDQ0NTUzNTQwMDAwANkG AQOQBgCsBAAAEwAAAAsAIwAAAAAAAwAmAAAAAAALACkAAAAAAAMANgAAAAAAQAA5AGCIaRy8F7wB HgBwAAEAAAAaAAAAICBIQU5ETElORyBSViBFLU1BSUwgREFUQQAAAAIBcQABAAAAFgAAAAG8F7Yi sXgsWOuDfBHQsbBERVNUAAAAAB4AHgwBAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgAfDAEAAAATAAAAcHJvYmVy QGl3YXluZXQubmV0AAADAAYQbwXAggMABxCSAgAAHgAIEAEAAABlAAAAV0VMTFRISVNUT1BJQ1BS T0JBQkxZR09UU1RBUlRFREZST01NWUNPTU1FTlRBQk9VVFRXT1JFRU1TT0ZQUklOVEVEREFUQVRI SVNJU01ZTE9HSUNCRUhJTkRUSEFUSVJFQURUSAAAAAACAQkQAQAAABUDAAARAwAAiAQAAExaRnWG PKfG/wAKAQ8CFQKoBesCgwBQAvIJAgBjaArAc2V0MjcGAAbDAoMyA8UCAHByQnER4nN0ZW0CgzN3 AuQHEwKAfQqACM8J2TvxFg8yNTUCgAqBDbELYGBuZzEwMxRQCwNseGkzNg3wC1UUUQvyYyEAQCBX ZWwDIHRogwQAG5BvcGljIBNQBG9iAaBseSBnb08FQBPACsAT0GQgA1Igtm0cwAWgbQeAAjAgAaBD CGAFQHR3byAJ0W05BCBvZhxBC4AdYmRh9QGQLiCTVBuyG8Ed8RWg0mccIWJlG7BuHYAboFEgYC4g SR8xYSJSZf8hkAQAHuQb8BuRCdEbkAdzjnAEkCBBHMB1c3UHQH8csCKyIGAhkCMAI6Ei82nnHoEF QAMAZ2gFQCIAAhDfFhAiwRzgJAIiAGQisR+wdSLQZiIycwNwEcAiIWdPImMpMgngAyBJJxtxbvsJ 4B2AdyNQA6AoQRHAJARPJjEdISwgH5JidQMQZP0qESwiwR/TJwMiQSlgJmDdJwJ1IkAlEScQJyTh A2AfJQIjUCMQKhEisExpa/8vMSkiEbAjYCmyG5IqIQIg/SMzZiWAG2AtAguALBErYO5yB0AqRiny ayLBIgACQPElEWtubwfgK78FQAqx/x7hNjQuPy9IMzYgkgWxGOH8cHM6RQPwGRA68zpjBaDPAjAD YAMgJZByZgDQB5A7IJIRwGMgwzZBNixkb/sqFxGwYySgMsEfoSNCC1H7K2AxomMDkSpTLwMn8SMz vRPAdQ3QIsErYyQRdyBg/xFwH5Ae0SfxIrAiwAVAHxA8cmsEIEIyB4AgkUFszymwIsFBUkFQcnIc wCyV70LSH/EkIjHxaBwAQiMRgL8iQB+BA6AWECrANDBuPSD/IrAg8CBgBCBIMAfgKUEIYH0iRSAJ 8CHAQPEgUh2USO8EkAOBLfIVoG8xUB2AL4SfS2QisEXQHEMEkEBpQ7CeeStgIqBPQUSQKFMkoFMb cTLFRW0KsG4tASn9GiwgCosZ3wwBHFET0D/wC1ImFTEAVXAAAAADABAQAAAAAAMAERAAAAAAQAAH MEBcvFm0F7wBQAAIMEBcvFm0F7wBAgEUOgEAAAAQAAAA6lgseHyD0BGxsERFU1QAAB4APQABAAAA AQAAAAAAAADuRw== ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC1792.9252DF60-- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Hartzell prop home page??
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Does anyone know Hartzell Propeller home page or phone number? Reply to my address. Thanks Herman dierks(at)austin.ibm.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Leg Room
Does anyone familiar with the rv-4, or I should say has anyone with an rv-4 done anything to lengthen the front seat legroom. I don't see an easy way of getting more than an inch more than the plans call for. I thought about moving the roll bar back as close to the rear stick as feasible, then mounting the seat on adjustable rails. Any kind of rails would take away from head room. Does anyone have any input on this? I'm open to any suggestions. How much room is between the firewall and rudder pedals when full rudder deflection is necessary? Thanks in advance for any input. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DGreen9032(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezer
Shimming the rivet dies is fine but if you want to do it the really easy way, you can get a screw adjustible type (simular to a hand rivet squizer ) from U.S. TOOL SUPPLY. They are a little pricey but are a real time saver. After I bought one ,I made a few more,one for each yoke I have. Daryl Green (wings almost done ) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
At xx yy wrote:
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> Subject: Re: RV-List: HANDLING RV E-MAIL DATA > >For new subscribers I have outlined a system of how to handle all this >E-mail data. >There should be many on the RV-List who are, like me, on the steep side of >learning the systems. I am using Eudora Light software (obtainable free of >charge from ATT). > **snip** >Any better ideas, please post these. Thanks. >Lothar* Klingmuller = lothark(at)worldnet.att.net = Denver - (303) 922-2329 h & >FAX~~ -6A continueing w/ fuse'ge when garage is build . *(pron'd: >"low-TARR") I use Eudora Pro 3.0, and set up a filter which looks at all mail in my In box, and moves any mail with a Subject containing RV-List to a RV In box. This leaves all my other mail in the regular In box, so I don't miss any of it. I set up a series of mailboxes on different subjects, and as I read the mail I transfer the keepers into the appropriate mailbox. Kevin Horton hopeful RV-8 builder (lurking and gather info, tools, etc) khorton(at)cyberus.ca Ottawa, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com
Date: - - - , 20-
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezer
I purchased the piston for a hand squeezer from Avery's, which is threaded, for less than $20. I then bought an allen head bolt to fit this. I haven't tried it out yet, but Ed Cole came up with the idea and he seems to like it. EB ------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT -------- SENT 02-10-97 FROM SMTPGATE (DGreen9032(at)aol.com) Shimming the rivet dies is fine but if you want to do it the really easy way, you can get a screw adjustible type (simular to a hand rivet squizer ) from U.S. TOOL SUPPLY. They are a little pricey but are a real time saver. After I bought one ,I made a few more,one for each yoke I have. Daryl Green (wings almost done ) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Garretts" <bgarrett(at)fast.net>
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: RV-LIST: HANDLING RV E-MAIL DATA
> I clear out my trash every day. If there's something I need to find, I go to > the archive at http://dunkin.Princeton.EDU/.rvlist/ and search there. > > I hardly ever print anything. Even better than this IMO is to use Bruce Gibbons' search engine and download the RV archives. I do this once every few months (last done Friday while I slept and it even had Friday's messages included already!). The search engine is fast and efficient. The unzipped file is now up to 24,151KB now! Makes me think twice about "cluttering" it with this! Bill Bill Garrett (bgarrett(at)fast.net) Mathematics Teacher RV6-A (Working on Wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler)
Subject: Re: Paint
Actually, Dave, my suggestion is that you re-scan the paint samples, but at a lower DPI resolution. Frankly, at an absolute minimum you only need one pixel of the appropriate color to transmit the color value, so re-scanning the pages at say, 30 DPI would result in very tiny files. -- Richard Chandler RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net>
Subject: Rivet MIL-Spec now on-line
RV-listers, The MIL-R-47196A specification titled "Rivets, Buck Type, Preparation for and Installation of" is now available on-line at my personal web space. http://www.flash.net/~gila/ John Hovan has also kindly placed a link to this location from his excellent RV web site, so you won't have to remember it ..:^) Other web site managers, please link only to this location. Many thanks are due to Brian Yablon for the magic scanning, OCR and gif drawing work. Thank you Brian. Since this on-line availability is much easier, more efficient and cheaper than sending me SASEs for hard copies, my "Free Rivet Spec. Offer" is now formally closed ...:^) ... but the two SASEs I got this week have been mailed. ... thanks guys, use this information, spread it around to other RV builders, and form good rivets to get all of the strength that Van designed into these planes. ... Gil (sent out over 60 harcopies) Alexander RV6A, #20701 ... tail fairing and little tail stuff ... PS I get 1 Mb of free web space, and could host other RV related stuff here if anyone has any ideas ... ------------------------------------------------------- gila(at)flash.net Gil Alexander, Los Angeles, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: lost message re prop and throttle
This message was posted several days ago and AOL lost it in cyberspace so I am posting it even though the thread has not been discussed for a while. Regarding use of prop and throttle: I have always believed in the KISS principle. There are so many things that can cause you grief around an airport that you should have your full attention outside of the plane as much as possible. If you do things the simple way and always do them the same way, you are much less likely to forget something important, like carb heat, fuel pump, or landing gear. I say that the simplest way to work the prop and throttle is to go to full RPM as you enter the traffic pattern and forget about the prop for the rest of the flight. Use the throttle to control your airspeed and rate of decent. That way full power is always available with the throttle and the prop can act as an air brake when the throttle is closed. The floating tendency is much less on landing with flat pitch on the prop, resulting in shorter landing distances and longer brake life. Aerobatic and race planes run their engines above the 2700 RPM red line all the time with no trouble. Things in the engine don't start to break until about 3450 RPM, so any brief over-shoot of 2700 RPM during a rapid application of power will not hurt the engine. While I am on my soap box, let me suggest another thing about the traffic pattern. If ANYTHING interupts your normal sequence of events, STOP! Go back to the beginning of your landing sequence and start over with your checks. You would be amazed at the number of incidences that occur because someone caused a pilot to deviate from the normal routine, which then caused them to forget an important item on the landing checklist. I speak from the experience of 28 years of military flying, 28 years of aiirline flying, and 36 years of private flying totalling more than 16,000 hours. (Twenty three of the military years were in the reserves while flying with the airlines, so I am not really that old .) Standing by in my Air Force issue Nomex fireproof flying suit for the flames. Jim Cone jamescone(at)aol.com >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: RV6 Sliding Canopy
<< I have run into a problem that has me stumped so thought I had better ask for help. I mounted my roll bar according to plans. When I put my canopy frame on, I find there is a 5/8 in gap between the roll bar and the canopy frame on the right side corner. I unbolted the roll bar and squared it up with the canopy frame and everything looks fine except that the roll bar is 5/8 in closer to the firewall on the left side. I have the center slider track installed temporarily on top of the fuselage in the correct position. I cannot figure out why I am 5/8 in off. I called Van's and they could not offer much help. I can see two options:drill new holes for the left side of the roll bar and mount it so that it is 5/8 in closer to the firewall than the right side or cut the left and center tubes on the canopy frame and shorten them so the left side of the frame is 5/8 in shorter than the right side. >> John- You quite probably have a "racked" canopy frame. To visualize racking compare a parallelogram with sides x and y against a rectangle with the same sides x and y. The parallelogram is what you likely have looking down on the canopy frame from the side. You need to get it square by wrestling with it, literally. You have to clamp parts to an immovable object and lean on it. First get the center spine normal to the front arch then tweek the sides so they don't fight against square. Gradually it will come around. There is a certain amount of time it expects you to spend with it (like the dog and the wife) and you must indulge it. Don't even think about moving the rollover bar if it is in the correct (normal to the a/c centerline) position or you will come to grief. -Gary VanRemortel vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-LIST: HANDLING RV E-MAIL DATA
Date: Feb 11, 1997
As a fairly new subscriber, I've noticed that a lot of the e-mail I get are answers to questions, or general discussions, that could better be done one on one. Our list provider has asked us to help eliminate some of this because the archive is growing at an alarming rate. As a retired computer programmer, I know that hardware costs a lot of money. To help out, I generally send my answers to pleas directly to the person generating the request. Yes, we don't all get to see it; but, it does keep down the overload. If we can keep down the general chatter and jokes, the mail will lessen for all. As a new subscriber, I've thought quite a bit about dropping out because a goodly portion is bunk, the rest I can get from Van's. With that said, have a nice day. Jim Sears RV-6A #22220 (fuselage to arive today) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com>
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: bolting practices
--- Forwarded mail from ("Jeffrey Davis") From: "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)av5036.pd8.ford.com> Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 08:26:20 -0500 Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting practices On Feb 8, 1:55pm, Jan Coulter wrote: > Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting practices > > > >If anyone is interested I can post the equations required to calculate preload > >for both nut and bolt torquing. > > > > > >Side note: Many of the fasteners used in Aircraft are not used in tension and > >preload is not important. Preload is important only to joints that are loaded > >along the axis of the bolt. In shear joints - bolt dia. is the control. That > >is why we use safety wire and pins to hold the nuts on - instead of clampload. > > > > > > > > Interesting - can you please e mail me the equation for calculating > preload. > -- > Jan Coulter RV6 builder in England >-- End of excerpt from Jan Coulter To calculate the required joint preload for a shear joint use the following equation: Ps = K*n*m*T Ps = Working Shear Load at slip. K = Coefficient of friction between shear surfaces n = Number of Slip planes m = Number of Bolts Tmin = Minimum clampload/bolt To "estimate" the torque required to obtain a given preload - T = Fi*dm * (1+pi*u*dm*sec(a)) + (Fi*uc*dc) ----- ------------------ -------- 2 (pi*dm-u*l*sec(a)) 2 T = Torque Fi = Bolt Tensile load dm = Mean Diameter of bolt pi = Pi (3.14159.....) u = Coefficient of friction of the thread interface a = Thread Helix uc = Coefficient of friction collar(head on bolt/washer) dc = Washer face diameter l = Grip length This can be simplified to T = K*Fi*d K = is the torque Coefficient and ranges between 0.4 to 0.8 for metal to metal 0.005 to 0.2 for lubed joints. On average K = .2 or u/uc = .15 works well for most applications Therefore T = 0.2*Fi*d Of the total torque applied, 40-50% goes to bearing friction, 35-45% goes to thread friction, this leaves between 5-25% for developing clampload. About a 5% variation in joint friction (to lube or not to lube) can produce a 30% variation in clampload.... This is why critical joints are tightened to an "ANGLE" not a torque.. Enough on bolted fasteners.. -- Jeffrey S. Davis Senior Research Engineer Advance Vehicle Technology Ford Motor Company Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781 ---End of forwarded mail from ("Jeffrey Davis") -- Jeffrey S. Davis Senior Research Engineer Advance Vehicle Technology Ford Motor Company Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: lost message re prop and throttle
<< I say that the simplest way to work the prop and throttle is to go to full RPM as you enter the traffic pattern and forget about the prop for the rest of the flight. Use the throttle to control your airspeed and rate of decent. That way full power is always available with the throttle and the prop can act as an air brake when the throttle is closed. The floating tendency is much less on landing with flat pitch on the prop, resulting in shorter landing distances and longer brake life. Aerobatic and race planes run >> Jim, and others: We all have different techniques. I was warned about treating a counterweighted engine in this manner- in other words, do not let the prop drive the engine, as much as possible. My prop control does not move from the cruise position until the RPM starts to drop ( at which point it IS at full pitch). Hey- I'm the one paying the bills here... Regarding the floating tendency- I suspect most props will already be at fine pitch at idle. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Primer fuzzies
From: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Mitchell, If you're using a siphone type spray gun, be sure that the cup vent is open....... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV wstucklen1(at)juno.com >> >> Hi All - >> >> I've got a recurring problem with my primer going on "fuzzy" at first. >> I'm shooting with the usual small >> touch-up gun at about 30 PSI, and it's coming out stringy and fuzzy like >> it's drying before it hits the aluminum. After a minute of spraying or >> so, it's fine again. It's always the first minute of spraying. I've >> been trying everything I can think of: cleaning the gun as well as >> possible, spraying straight laquer thinner for a minute first. Doesn't >> help. >> >> Anybody have any ideas? 's pretty darned >> expensive, I'd hate to waste it by having to prime my plywood board >> every time before my parts. >> >> Of course, I go to bed every night knowing that *that* board is never >> going to corrode!!! >> >> _________________________ >> Mitchell Faatz San Jose, CA >> N727MF reserved >> RV-6AQME, about to hang left aileron >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Richard Meske <rmeske(at)freenet.columbus.oh.us>
Subject: Re: Primer fuzzies
I had the same problem with my veriprime. This was a big headache! I even took my spray gun in to some local guys. The checked it out for me. They said it was OK. It was not. I eventually traced it down to the packing in the gun. Veriprime is much thicker than thinner. This is what the local shop used to check my gun. It worked OK. When you use thicker media, air gets sucked right by the gun packing and dries out the paint in the gun. I replaced the packing and tightened down the packing nut till the gun needle wouldn't move, then backed it off. It works great now! Rich ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frederick RV Event
From: bstobbe(at)juno.com (Bruce D Stobbe)
Date: Feb 11, 1997
writes: > >I have attended this event in the past. I usually stopped on the way >to SNF. >The forum is geared towards BUILDERS of RV's. In the past, if you had >a >flying RV the event was free if you gave rides. I got the invite in >the mail >and to my surprise, they want $40 from everybody this year. Now I >hate to >sound like a cheep-skate, but, why would I want to spend $40 to give >rides? > >Don't get me wrong, if you are thinking about building, or you are >building >and RV by all means go. Just don't expect to get a ride. > >Gary Corde >RV-6 N211GC - NJ > It seems like every time an RV related event is scheduled I have to be somewhere else, and this one looks like no exception. If I was going though, I'd offer to pay your attendance fee just to have the chance to get a ride, since I've had to take the flight characteristics of the airplane I've been working on for the past 4 years on faith to this point. Maybe the organizers of this event could ask those who want a ride to pay a small fee to offset the expenses of those who are gracious enough to offer this opportunity. I know I'd jump at the chance. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Fred New <fred(at)ics.ee>
Subject: Re: RV-LIST: HANDLING RV E-MAIL DATA
On Tue, 11 Feb 1997, Jim Sears wrote: > I generally send my answers to pleas directly to the person > generating the request. Yes, we don't all get to see it; but, ... I have to disagree with this. When I go to the archives, I'd rather find the solutions rather than just that someone had the same problem before. My opinion is that a big contribution to the bulk is that several different people seem to answer the same question with the same answer. This could be reduced if people would read through all of their mail before responding. Another problem is that people are including entire contents of previous posts, when two or three lines would be enough to remind us of what was already said. -- Fred New, Rv-6(A?), dreaming, scheming, looking for a garage & more money IC Systems, Mustamae tee 12, EE0006 Tallinn, Estonia fred(at)ics.ee, (372) 656-5477, fax (372) 656-5476 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler)
Subject: Paint booth
Fellow Listers: I would like to construct a small paint booth (15' (l) x 6' (w) x 7' (h)) in my shop. Have any of you desgined such a booth? I assume the best design is to suck air from it with a filtered inlet. What type of exhaust fan did you use? How big? Do you have a source for a fan approved for paint booth application? Thanks, Doug -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= = Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW = 347 Krattley Lane = Hudson, WI 54016 = 715-386-1239 = email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Subject: Re: Leg Room
Michael C. Lott wrote: > > > Does anyone familiar with the rv-4, or I should say has anyone with an > rv-4 done anything to lengthen the front seat legroom. I don't see an > easy way of getting more than an inch more than the plans call for. I > thought about moving the roll bar back as close to the rear stick as > feasible, then mounting the seat on adjustable rails. Any kind of rails > would take away from head room. Does anyone have any input on this? > I'm open to any suggestions. How much room is between the firewall and > rudder pedals when full rudder deflection is necessary? Thanks in > advance for any input. Michael I haven't had to move the seat, however I just got thru installing the rudder, stops, and cables. There are a few things that I ran into doing this. First in the prints they say that the max. length of the 4130 X 1/2" links for the cable is 4 3/4 inches between holes. The clearance for the holes on each end is 1/4" that would make them 5 1/4 inches long. Now they only send 20" of this material and you need four of them so the max. length you can get is 5" ea.. At this length I only have about 1/2" clearance from the fire wall to the pedal at full deflection. Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap TX. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: Re prop and throttle
<< I was warned about treating a counterweighted engine in this manner- in other words, do not let the prop drive the engine, as much as possible. My prop control does not move from the cruise position until the RPM starts to drop (at which point it IS at full pitch). Hey- I'm the one paying the bills here... >> Mark is 100% correct. Gary Corde ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: RV6 Sliding Canopy
<< My sliding canopy was also slightly "whopper-jawed" when I got it. But I found that it was necessary to "tweak" it quite a bit to get it to more closely match the roll bar and longerons, and also to get the rear pins to come out in the right place. Many hours with a pipe bender later, it was square with the roll bar. >> Oh yes, I still have fond memories about bending my slider frame. I thought about the process for about a week. Should I heat the tubes? Should I uses a pipe bender? Should I build something easy like a Glassair? After much thought (and a call to Van's) I got out my trusty tools...hand, foot and floor. After some precise (ya right) manipulation the thing fit perfect. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robbins Mitch <ROBBINM(at)chi.ntsb.gov>
Subject: Hartzell prop home page??
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Hartzell technical support is at 513-778-4388 Does anyone know Hartzell Propeller home page or phone number? Reply to my address. Thanks Herman dierks(at)austin.ibm.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: prop and throttle use
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Mark, this is good input. Most RV's DO NOT have crankshafts with counter-weights. Your Harmon Rocket is more the exception than the rule. However, if you treat the engine as if it does have counter-weights, then you can fly either type of engine. I really wonder how much of this is 'ol wives tales' vers engineering truth with respect to the counter weights. Given the cost of the cranks and engines, I guess we don't really want to find out so it is easier to be gentle on it. Herman > Jim, and others: > We all have different techniques. > I was warned about treating a counterweighted engine in this manner- in other > words, do not let the prop drive the engine, as much as possible. My prop > control does not move from the cruise position until the RPM starts to drop ( > at which point it IS at full pitch). Hey- I'm the one paying the bills > here... > Regarding the floating tendency- I suspect most props will already be at fine > pitch at idle. > > Check six! > Mark > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: True Airspeed using GPS
From: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Listers: I've misplaced the formula for calculating true air speed using the GPS while flying in three directions 90* apart. Does anybody happen to have it handy? Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV wstucklen1(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric)
Subject: WANTED-RV-6 WING KIT
Hi all, I am about ready to order the rest of my RV-6 kit but thought I would try and avoid the waiting period on the wing since I'm without metal pieces to play with, these withdrawals are tough. If anyone knows of a wing kit that someone would like to part with please E-Mail me. I'd like as little work done as possible. I'm on the west coast so it needs to be within a reasonable driving distance. Thanks in advance, Eric Henson Dana Point, Ca ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pmbs(at)probe.att.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: Frederick RV Event
I sent in my application for the Frederick, MD event a short time ago. But as I recall, gas for those giving RV rides was provided to those giving rides....maybe in lieu of admission?? As I recall last year, they did drawings for RV rides during the seminar. Other rides were perhaps arranged for through the goodness of the hearts of those RV owners that did come to the event. I do know that George Orndorff gave some of the rides using his plane. Paul Bilodeau pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com 908-957-6611 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: "AUSTIN TINCKLER" <TANFORAN(at)msn.com>
Subject: Oil Coolers
Since Rvs quite often get more cooling air than needed for regular oil coolers, some owners have found that a very good smaller cooler is available for about $79. This is a great cooler of high quality and light weight. It is called a Setrab, made in Sweden and comes with your choice of female pipe fittings or male flared aircraft fittings with the 37 degree flare you require. Many builders in the Portland area fly with them as they are perfect for their needs in that they are the same dimensions as other coolers only about 1/2 the thickness. Light in weight, low cost and fit very well almost anywhere you want to mount them. No I am not a dealer. This is just one of those suggestions for your consideration since good deals for homebuilders are not that abundant! Austin Tinckler Vancouver, B.C. RV-6 aborning...(90%) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)BayNetworks.COM>
Subject: RE: Primer fuzzies
I did some priming yesterday and I had not done so since last fall. At first my spray gun was "spitting" a bit. It would spray a steady stream of paint or solvent with interruptions. The gun had been cleaned meticulously. In frustration I took it apart and it was perfectly clean internally. After a while it started working normally. I think the difference is that the "packing valve" needed to be lightly lubed, as it says in the manual(RTFM.) So I think that my cleaning had washed out the lube so the paint valve was not opening reliably. After cleaning and lubing it was fine. Cheryl Sanchez csanchez(at)world.std.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue)
Subject: Re: True Airspeed using GPS
> >Listers: > > I've misplaced the formula for calculating true air speed using the >GPS while flying in three directions 90* apart. Does anybody happen to >have it handy? > > >Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV >wstucklen1(at)juno.com I don't have that formula but I have a method that is very quick and easy. Make a very gentle turn to the heading that gives maximum ground speed. You may have to search back and forth a little bit. Note the ground speed. Make a 180 degree turn. Note the ground speed. True airspeed is the average of these two figures. Larry Pardue ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Performance Equations
From: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Listers, I'm trying to come up with a spread sheet to calculate aircraft performance characteristics. I need formulas to compute density altitude and CAS, given Altitude, OTA, Baraometer, etc. Does anybody have these in a practical form? Where can I get the power setting curves for the O-320-D1A engine? Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV wstucklen1(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezer
aol.com!DGreen9032(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > Shimming the rivet dies is fine but if you want to do it the really easy way, > you can get a screw adjustible type (simular to a hand rivet squizer ) from > U.S. TOOL SUPPLY. They are a little pricey but are a real time saver. After > I bought one ,I made a few more,one for each yoke I have. Daryl Green > (wings almost done ) > Here is something you pnuematic squeezer guy's might try... If you have a hand squeezer from Averys, remove the die holder, unscew it from the threaded actuator, purchase a cap screw with the same threads and length as the actuator, and for 69 cents you have a fully adjustable pnueumtic squeezer! No washers required. Be sure to add lubricant to the threads and cap of the cap screw. Ed Cole RV6A Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: Re: True Airspeed using GPS
> >Listers: > > I've misplaced the formula for calculating true air speed using the >GPS while flying in three directions 90* apart. Does anybody happen to >have it handy? > > >Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV >wstucklen1(at)juno.com Here ya go, Fred. ------------------ Bob Skinner The formula is: V=squareroot of(V1 squared + V2 squared + V3 squared + V1 squared x V3 squared/V2 squared)/2 Example: You can track any course as long as two are 180 degrees from each other and the other course is perpendicular. I like using GPS, seems to work better than loran. I usually track 0 / 90 / 180 (sun is in west) or 180 / 270 / 0 (sun in east). This formula eleminates any effect of wind component. V1 heading of 0 degrees = 160 groundspeed V2 heading of 90 degrees = 163 groundspeed V3 heading of 180 degrees = 125 groundspeed Your answer should be 144. I wrote a spreadsheet formula and just log the three speeds while airborne. I also log: Date, Temp, Altitude, (computed Density alt.), RPM's, Maniflod pressure, (compute percent power), log where mixture control is (best power, leaned to peak, etc.), Indicated Airspeed, then the computed results and the last column shows Airspeed error (difference between computed and indicated. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:Looking for a 4
There is an RV-4 at Double Eagle (AEG) for sale. Contact Tom, the chief mechanic at 505.842.7007 > >Hello out there >I am a viper driver (F-16) now flying a desk at MacDill AFB FL. Looking for >a reasonably priced VFR RV-4. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com>

Subject: Paint booth
Date: Feb 11, 1997
I just built a "shed" out of 2X4's and use a pratton whole home air circulator (giant metal fan from Price Club) with an ordinary $2 furnace filter in front of it. The filter catches almost all the overspray. The shed is covered with ordinary blue tarps. I spent about $50 and have primed every single part on my plane so far without any problems. I thought for a while about all this explosion proof stuff and decided that it wouldn't affect me. The shed is in the middle of a well ventilated hangar. I decided not to smoke while priming in it. Your mileage may vary. Please no flames (pun intended). -Mike ---------- From: mail.pressenter.com!dougweil(at)matronics.com [SMTP:mail.pressenter.com!dougweil(at)matronics.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 5:56 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Paint booth dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) Fellow Listers: I would like to construct a small paint booth (15' (l) x 6' (w) x 7' (h)) in my shop. Have any of you desgined such a booth? I assume the best design is to suck air from it with a filtered inlet. What type of exhaust fan did you use? How big? Do you have a source for a fan approved for paint booth application? Thanks, Doug -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= = Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW = 347 Krattley Lane = Hudson, WI 54016 = 715-386-1239 = email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Coolers
AUSTIN TINCKLER wrote: > > > Since Rvs quite often get more cooling air than needed for regular oil > coolers, some owners have found that a very good smaller cooler is available > for about $79. This is a great cooler of high quality and light weight. It is > called a Setrab, made in Sweden and comes with your choice of female pipe > fittings or male flared aircraft fittings with the 37 degree flare you > require. Many builders in the Portland area fly with them as they are perfect > for their needs in that they are the same dimensions as other coolers only > about 1/2 the thickness. Light in weight, low cost and fit very well almost > anywhere you want to mount them. No I am not a dealer. This is just one of > those suggestions for your consideration since good deals for homebuilders are > not that abundant! Austin Tinckler > > Vancouver, B.C. > > RV-6 aborning...(90%)Austin, Where can you buy such a cooler?? Ed Cole emcole(at)concentric.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric)
Subject: RE: Paint booth
Hi Doug, first I would only make a booth for finish painting of course. I paint an occasional car in my garage and what worked well for me was to make a temporary frame out of small dia. pvc and completely surround the car. Then just wrap it in plastic, tape an air conditioning filter or two for an inlet and have the fan taped to the plastic pulling the exhaust out. This will keep the bugs out and help controll where the paint goes. All said, I'm not really sure how necessary this is, most of the minor crud in the paint comes off of you and not the air. You did wash your floor, right? A little 1500 grit and some finessing compound will take away the specks with ease. Hope it helps, Eric Henson ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Doug Wrote<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Fellow Listers: I would like to construct a small paint booth (15' (l) x 6' (w) x 7' (h)) in my shop. Have any of you desgined such a booth? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: "AUSTIN TINCKLER" <TANFORAN(at)msn.com>
Subject: Oil Coolers
---------- From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of AUSTIN TINCKLER Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 11:03 AM Subject: RV-List: Oil Coolers Since Rvs quite often get more cooling air than needed for regular oil coolers, some owners have found that a very good smaller cooler is available for about $79. This is a great cooler of high quality and light weight. It is called a Setrab, made in Sweden and comes with your choice of female pipe fittings or male flared aircraft fittings with the 37 degree flare you require. Many builders in the Portland area fly with them as they are perfect for their needs in that they are the same dimensions as other coolers only about 1/2 the thickness. Light in weight, low cost and fit very well almost anywhere you want to mount them. No I am not a dealer. This is just one of those suggestions for your consideration since good deals for homebuilders are not that abundant! Austin Tinckler Vancouver, B.C. RV-6 aborning...(90%) P.S. I forgot to say where you can get them. Call Jeff at Columbia Airmotive 1601 S.W. Sturges Dr. P.O.Box428 Troutdale, Ore. 97060 Phone 503-665-4896. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks)
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezer
rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes: If you have a hand squeezer from Averys, remove the die holder, unscew it from the threaded actuator, purchase a cap screw with the same threads and length as the actuator, and for 69 cents you have a fully adjustable pnueumtic squeezer! No washers required. Be sure to add lubricant to the threads and cap of the cap screw. Ed Cole RV6A Wings How do you adjust it without the whole thing spinning? The hand squeezer has an indent in the ram that stops the threaded end from turning when you turn the shaft. The pnumatic has no such facility. I would imagine that the cap screw would just spin on the ram. Dann Parks dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks)
Subject: Re: Oil Coolers
rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes: Many builders in the Portland area fly with them as they are perfect for their needs in that they are the same dimensions as other coolers only about 1/2 the thickness. What about for those in warmer climates...like places where the sun shines? (No really, I love the Pacific Northwest) Would this provide enough cooling? Dann Parks dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Primer fuzzies
> I did some priming yesterday and I had not done so since last >fall. At first my spray gun was "spitting" a bit.... One of the things that I found when I switched from a siphon feed to pressure feed is that the adjustment of the packing nut is much more finicky with pressure feed. With siphon feed, if the packing nut is a little too tight, it won't matter. The paint needle will 'drag' (close later than the air valve), but since no paint flows when the air is shut off, its not a problem. With pressure feed, however, if the paint needle drags, paint will continue to flow after the air is shut off at the end of each stroke. (The pros have a nickname for this behavior, but I won't repeat it here) The packing nut must be adjusted tight enough to prevent air fron leaking past the packing, but not so tight as to cause the paint needle to drag. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Frederick RV Event
Gary, As in the past, admission and gas for the rides is still free to RVs that fly-in. Sorry for any misunderstanding. I took over the preparation of the registration brochure this year and missed a few things. No matter how many times you read over your own work you still miss things. -Gene > >I have attended this event in the past. I usually stopped on the way to SNF. >The forum is geared towards BUILDERS of RV's. In the past, if you had a >flying RV the event was free if you gave rides. I got the invite in the mail >and to my surprise, they want $40 from everybody this year. Now I hate to >sound like a cheep-skate, but, why would I want to spend $40 to give rides? > >Don't get me wrong, if you are thinking about building, or you are building >and RV by all means go. Just don't expect to get a ride. > >Gary Corde >RV-6 N211GC - NJ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Sylvan Adamson <sadamson(at)cyberhighway.net>
Subject: Re: Paint booth
> >Fellow Listers: > >I would like to construct a small paint booth (15' (l) x 6' (w) x 7' (h)) in >my shop. Have any of you desgined such a booth? I assume the best design >is to suck air from it with a filtered inlet. What type of exhaust fan did >you use? How big? Do you have a source for a fan approved for paint booth >application? > >Thanks, > >Doug > > >-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= >= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW >= 347 Krattley Lane >= Hudson, WI 54016 >= 715-386-1239 >= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com >-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > >Doug, I ran a couple of ropes from I bolts screwed into opposit walls with a window at one end. I then covered the floor and draped clear plastic over the ropes to the floor and taped the ends shut and taped it down to the floor. I used a standard three speed box fan in the window on one end and a couple of furnace filters on the plastic on the other. Be sure and take the window screen out or it ends up painted. Works great. Got all the stuff at the local Home Base store for about 50.00. I've seen this done a number of times with no problem. Sylvan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: James & Mary Mc Phee <bluegum(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: FW: Lycoming-electronic igntion/fuel injection
> > ><< In the quest for a more efficient Lycoming, is anyone aware of an >electronic > ignition for the Lyc. I have heard of a certified ignition system, however, >I > am > curious if someone has had any luck with an un-certified system for > the homebuilt crowd. Any info is appreciated. > > Regarding fuel injection, any comments on how the AirFlow Performance > FI system compares to the factory Lyc FI, price, performance, etc. > > Thanks, > > Garrett Smith > Calgary,Canada >> > FWIW, I recommend the Claus Savier Light Speed Electronic Ignition sysytem and I have one in my RV 6 with 100 hours on it. I would not be without it, other RV owners are impressed at the smoothness and efficiency. It isn't the cheapest, but the best never ir, neither is the cheapest, it is often dearer in the long run. The latest offering from Lightspeed is the Plasma system, onlt 1/3 the size of the old system. TO all the other knowledgeable RV people out there who don't like the magnets on the flywheel, I suggest you do not bash it unless you have had it on your own aircraft. James Mc Phee RV-6 S/No 20334 ZK - MRV 295Hrs and 4 1/2 yrs Flying. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: James & Mary Mc Phee <bluegum(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: engine
> >I am suppose to send a deposit on an 0320-h2ad Friday. I think it is a >good price. It is in a late 70ish 172. It has 2000 hrs since new, and >is being removed for upgrade. I used to be afraid of these engines, but >have heard more good news than bad, lately. I know the rv-4 mount will >need to be modified, and something done about the mechanical fuel pump >mounting area (cowling bubble, I think). I'm also planning on using one >of the electronic ignition systems. Does anyone want to add anything to >this, or try to talk me out of buying this engine? Please hurry if >there is something else I need to consider before I buy this engine. >Flame away!!!!! thanks > >Buy the engine, keep it's insides nice and clean and you will have a good engine. We use Shell 15W-50 semi synthetic oil, used Microlon (teflon) as a i time treatment as soon as we entered phase 2, have Lightspeed CDI installed and are currently producing 185 hp from our H2Ad, it's a lovely engine. The only 2 changes you will require are to the top of the engine mount, perhaps Van's will swap for you although I do not understand why all the Dynafocals from Van's are not modified, that way any dynafocal will fit, and a bubble up front above the fuel pump housing to allow for engine rocking movement. Good Luck Jame Mc Phee RV-6 S/No 20334 ZK-mrv 295 Hrs 4 1/2 yrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Jack & Diane Mahler <jax(at)brett.reno.nv.us>
Subject: Re: Avery's
aol.com!CAGPADDLES(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > Has anyone had major delays in getting stuff from Avery's lately? I''ve been > waiting for the catalog for 3 weeks and have called twice, but no-joy. I've > seen what seem to be glowing endorsements of them in the archives so maybe > they just don't like me. > > Jim Brown (RV-6 in > waiting)Yes, I ordered a Hand Squeezer Yoke three weeks ago with no luck, when I called I got the run-a-round from the female on the phone, told me to call back later, she didn't know what happened to my order. This is the first time I've ever had trouble with them. I don't know what the problem is, but I will call again tomorrow. Doing the wings, jax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: "Van's Aircraft Inc." <vansac(at)vansaircraft.com>
Subject: Van's Aircraft On-Line
Greetings RV'ers, Van's Aircraft is pleased to announce the introduction of their new on-line services: (Feel free to send any comments to webmaster(at)vansaircraft.com) WORLD WIDE WEB http://www.vansaircraft.com ***************************************** The primary feature of the Van's Aircraft On-Line concept is the website. Enjoy an extensive amount of data, filled with colorful pictures of many different RV aircraft! FTP ftp://ftp.vansaircraft.com ****************************************** For those who desire a quick view of the information on the website, use the FTP text files. No graphics, but a quick and easy download that doesn't require a web browser. ON-LINE E-MAIL INFORMATION SERVICE info(at)vansaircraft.com *********************************************** This address is available for asking non-technical questions to Van's Aircraft. It can be used for a variety of general questions you might have about the products available from Van's Aircraft. ON-LINE E-MAIL ORDERING order(at)vansaircraft.com ********************************************** Available exclusively for established customers for use in ordering parts and accessories. Please include your name, address, phone number, builder number, part number(s) desired, and part description(s) in the e-mail. ON-LINE E-MAIL TECHNICAL SUPPORT support(at)vansaircraft.com ******************************************** Van's Aircraft is dedicated to ensuring success in your building project. Send your builder support questions to this address for a prompt response to any difficulties you may encounter. AUTOMATIC E-MAIL INFORMATION RETRIEVAL SYSTEM auto-info(at)vansaircraft.com ****************************************** A new feature that allows you to retrieve most of the information available on the web site using only e-mail. Just send a blank e-mail to this address to automatically receive the index of files. Enjoy your visits to Van's Aircraft On-Line and feel free to leave any comments (good and bad) about what you see to: webmaster(at)vansaircraft.com Thanks and hope you enjoy! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AB320FLYER(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: True Airspeed using GPS
Fred, Take the GPS speed on three different headings 90 degrees apart and plug them into: (Sq rt of (X^2+Y^2+Z^2+[(X^2*Z^2)/Y^2])/2=Calibrated airspeed I put this formula in Excel so I can just plug in the three speeds-it works great. Joel Harding(RV8 wings) ab320flyer(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: "AUSTIN TINCKLER" <TANFORAN(at)msn.com>
Subject: Oil Coolers
---------- From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Edward Cole Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 3:30 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Coolers AUSTIN TINCKLER wrote: > > > Since Rvs quite often get more cooling air than needed for regular oil > coolers, some owners have found that a very good smaller cooler is available > for about $79. This is a great cooler of high quality and light weight. It is > called a Setrab, made in Sweden and comes with your choice of female pipe > fittings or male flared aircraft fittings with the 37 degree flare you > require. Many builders in the Portland area fly with them as they are perfect > for their needs in that they are the same dimensions as other coolers only > about 1/2 the thickness. Light in weight, low cost and fit very well almost > anywhere you want to mount them. No I am not a dealer. This is just one of > those suggestions for your consideration since good deals for homebuilders are > not that abundant! Austin Tinckler > > Vancouver, B.C. > > RV-6 aborning...(90%)Austin, Where can you buy such a cooler?? Ed Cole e mcole(at)concentric.net Columbia Airmotive 1601 S.W. Sturges Dr. P.O. Box 428, Troutdale, Ore. 97060 ask for Jeff (503) 665-4896. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
Subject: Re: True Airspeed using GPS
(Sq rt of (X^2+Y^2+Z^2+[(X^2*Z^2)/Y^2])/2=Calibrated airspeed > Joel; help me out. If I read this correctly, it is solving for pressure alt. as well? I'm not very astute in math (basically still in the pie are round stage), but my E6B left over from the AF days has IAS+or- installation error=calibrated. CAS +or- pressure alt = true AS. TAS +or- wind = ground speed. Then there is a compressibility correction at higher AS, but doesn't have any material effect at our speeds. I'm not flaming, I just don't understand how the formula corrects for press. alt. to get cal. AS. It's part of my problem when I first started flying my 6. The coffee talk left me with the impression that I had the slowest 6 flying ( I considered IAS by alt/temp). But when one of the talkers said that his was proven that fast because the GPS showed he was doing 205 mph, and it didn't make any difference what his airspeed indicator was showing, I knew we were talking apples and oranges. He didn't brag about his return trip. This misunderstanding on my part lead to a letter to Vans, which was never answered, regarding the, I thought, high 'cruise speed'. To me, the best cruise speed is the most miles per gallon, best endurance (loiter) is most minutes per gallon, and fastest speed has to be qualified by alt, temp and flight attitude (level, diving, etc)and power. I noticed that Johanson had a speed of about 156mph from HA to CA. I would assume he was after best cruise speed, I damned sure would have been, over all of that water. Again, I'm not flaming, but does the intricacies of math solve the pres/temp thing, or should the CAS be TAS? John Darby RV6 N61764 flying Stephenville TX johnd@our-town.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Aircraft On-Line
Van's Aircraft Inc. wrote: > Van's Aircraft is pleased to announce the introduction of their > new on-line services: > > http://www.vansaircraft.com ***************************************** > The primary feature of the Van's Aircraft On-Line concept is the website. Wow, I'm famous. Just a nit, but it is 'Kelley', not 'Kelly'. Great page and you can bet it'll be at the top of my links as soon as possible. Thanks, Van's. PatK - RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Re: engine
James & Mary Mc Phee wrote: > > > > > >I am suppose to send a deposit on an 0320-h2ad Friday. I think it is a > >good price. It is in a late 70ish 172. It has 2000 hrs since new, and > >is being removed for upgrade. I used to be afraid of these engines, but > >have heard more good news than bad, lately. I know the rv-4 mount will > >need to be modified, and something done about the mechanical fuel pump > >mounting area (cowling bubble, I think). I'm also planning on using one > >of the electronic ignition systems. Does anyone want to add anything to > >this, or try to talk me out of buying this engine? Please hurry if > >there is something else I need to consider before I buy this engine. > >Flame away!!!!! thanks > > > >Buy the engine, keep it's insides nice and clean and you will have a good > engine. > We use Shell 15W-50 semi synthetic oil, used Microlon (teflon) as a i time > treatment as soon as we entered phase 2, have Lightspeed CDI installed and > are currently producing 185 hp from our H2Ad, it's a lovely engine. > > The only 2 changes you will require are to the top of the engine mount, > perhaps Van's will swap for you although I do not understand why all the > Dynafocals from Van's are not modified, that way any dynafocal will fit, and > a bubble up front above the fuel pump housing to allow for engine rocking > movement. > > Good Luck > Jame Mc Phee RV-6 S/No 20334 ZK-mrv 295 Hrs 4 1/2 yrs. Thanks, Jame? It's on it's way now, and I think Van's does modify the mount before shipment of the finishing kit if so requested. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezer
Dann Parks wrote: > > > rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes: > If you have a hand squeezer from Averys, remove the die holder, unscew it > from the threaded actuator, purchase a cap screw with the same threads > and length as the actuator, and for 69 cents you have a fully adjustable > pnueumtic squeezer! No washers required. Be sure to add lubricant to the > threads and cap of the cap screw. > Ed Cole > RV6A Wings > > How do you adjust it without the whole thing spinning? The hand squeezer has > an indent in the ram that stops the threaded end from turning when you turn > the shaft. The pnumatic has no such facility. I would imagine that the cap > screw would just spin on the ram. > > Dann Parks > dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.orgDann, I just feather the trigger and turn the shaft. There is enough tension to keep the whole assemblt from turning on the ram. It has worked very well for me. Ed Cole p.s. Your rudder with the taped stiffeners looked great at the EAA Mtg. last night. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric)
Subject: Van's Aircraft On-Line
---------- From: Van's Aircraft Inc. Subject: RV-List: Van's Aircraft On-Line Date: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 9:11PM Greetings RV'ers, Van's Aircraft is pleased to announce the introduction of their new on-line services: (Feel free to send any comments to webmaster(at)vansaircraft.com) WORLD WIDE WEB http://www.vansaircraft.com ***************************************** The primary feature of the Van's Aircraft On-Line concept is the website. Enjoy an extensive amount of data, filled with colorful pictures of many different RV aircraft! FTP ftp://ftp.vansaircraft.com ****************************************** For those who desire a quick view of the information on the website, use the FTP text files. No graphics, but a quick and easy download that doesn't require a web browser. ON-LINE E-MAIL INFORMATION SERVICE info(at)vansaircraft.com *********************************************** This address is available for asking non-technical questions to Van's Aircraft. It can be used for a variety of general questions you might have about the products available from Van's Aircraft. ON-LINE E-MAIL ORDERING order(at)vansaircraft.com ********************************************** Available exclusively for established customers for use in ordering parts and accessories. Please include your name, address, phone number, builder number, part number(s) desired, and part description(s) in the e-mail. ON-LINE E-MAIL TECHNICAL SUPPORT support(at)vansaircraft.com ******************************************** Van's Aircraft is dedicated to ensuring success in your building project. Send your builder support questions to this address for a prompt response to any difficulties you may encounter. AUTOMATIC E-MAIL INFORMATION RETRIEVAL SYSTEM auto-info(at)vansaircraft.com ****************************************** A new feature that allows you to retrieve most of the information available on the web site using only e-mail. Just send a blank e-mail to this address to automatically receive the index of files. Enjoy your visits to Van's Aircraft On-Line and feel free to leave any comments (good and bad) about what you see to: webmaster(at)vansaircraft.com Thanks and hope you enjoy! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: annie CHAUVET <106466.3131(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: engine designations
In the RV-6 construction manual Ibought before ordering my Kit there are 8 pages about all the AVCO LYCOMING Engines explaining the meaning of all the letters and numbers. if you are not able to get a copy in STATES I will be pleased to fax all these info as soon I have your fax number !.... For info I'll install a IO-360 180hp on my plane, when? I dont know, I am trying to finsh the second wing (right). Very truly yours Jean Claude (France) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Westlande(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 12, 1997
Subject: Lyc. IO-360 Sump Swap?
I just installed my Lycoming IO-360-A1A and need to swap out the sump and intake tubes. I am not an RV builder, but a Cozy builder, so I need an updraft sump or maybe one where the servo mounts on the accessory case side (I'll skip trying to use terms like "front" and "back":-)). It is my understanding that it is the prop-sided servo mount that goes on easiest for the RV, so I thought I would check with this group to see if someone wants to trade. The engine I am removing the sump/tubes from has 2100 TTSN on it with no damage history. It all looks clean and straight. So, if you are interested, please reply back to me by e-mail. FYI, I am in the Seattle area. Thanks, Eric Westland ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezer
> > How do you adjust it without the whole thing spinning? The hand squeezer has > > an indent in the ram that stops the threaded end from turning when you turn > > the shaft. The pnumatic has no such facility. I would imagine that the cap > > screw would just spin on the ram. The one I have is one that a friend made for me -- he welded some extra material on the end and then ground it off so it is roughly the shape of the race. This keeps it from turning when you spin the shaft. I would think you could do something similar with the "cap screw" method. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: Dann_Parks(at)KTEH.pbs.org (Dann Parks)
Subject: Re: pneumatic squeezer
rv-list(at)matronics.com,Internet writes: How do you adjust it without the whole thing spinning? The hand squeezer has > an indent in the ram that stops the threaded end from turning when you turn > the shaft. The pnumatic has no such facility. I would imagine that the cap > screw would just spin on the ram. > > Dann Parks > dann_parks(at)kteh.pbs.org Dann, I just feather the trigger and turn the shaft. There is enough tension to keep the whole assemblt from turning on the ram. It has worked very well for me. Ed Cole Thanks, Ed. I'll try it. I've had a few times when I couldn't find the right washer combination. Dann ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MikeT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 12, 1997
Subject: Re: Paint booth
I made a booth about 4' wide by 3' deep using 2x4's covered with foam insulation with alum foil on both sides sealed with duct tape. I installed a bathroom wall fan to the outside with a plenum from the fan to the floor so the fan draws from the bottom. I put in 2 100 watt light bulbs in each back corner controlled thru a wall mounted thermostat for an elec baseboard heater. The bathroom fan doesn't really move as much air as I'd like but it works. I use a Hobbyair pressure mask system when shooting nasty stuff like the DP40 primer I'm using. A larger blower (maybe a squirel cage furnace fan) would be better but it needs to be explosion proof to avoid launching you and the booth into orbit. I built a shelf out of 2x4's and use egg crate light fixture diffuser material on the 2x4's when handling small pieces. I put a rod across the top to hang larger pieces. Mike Talley - RV-6 lh wing about 25% done ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler)
Subject: Re: Van's Aircraft On-Line
Very nice set up. Could do without Two intro screens before getting to the real main menu. -- Richard Chandler RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: James Cimino <jcimino1(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-8 Tail pictures
Date: Feb 13, 1997
I know all you have been waiting, I finally added a few pictures of my completed tail to my page. In case you can't find your bookmark its "http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771/" Jim Cimino RV-8 sn80039 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Skyforce SkyMap II
aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > > << Skyforce Avionics >> > The february issue of AOPA Piolet, on page 117 has a write-up on the > skymap. It appears that the skymap has a map area diagonal of 3.25 inches > compared with Garmin 195 of 4 inches. The rest of the display area is used > to designate buttons. That would give the Garmin 195 a somewhat larger map > area with more pixels for less $. The question I have is can the Garmin > antenna be located remotely like some of the other handheld GPS units. > > Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com Gene, The article isn't entirely accurate. The diagonal of the actual map portion of the screen on my Skymap is 3.25" in "portrait" display mode, and 3.75" with the screen set in "landscape" mode. The diagonal of the entire screen excluding the on-screen button labels is 4.25" in both modes. This dimension includes the actual map plus the nav info fields bordering the map, which include CDI, next waypoint, current position relative to nearest airport, distance to waypoint, ETE, ETA, GS, bearing, track, map scale, and various other indicators such as battery strength. The entire screen including everything is 5" diagonally. In my opinion, having the button labels on the screen is a nice feature that is worth the screen space they use. Hope this helps. Bob Reiff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Paint booth
Sylvan Adamson wrote: > > > > > >Fellow Listers: > > > >I would like to construct a small paint booth (15' (l) x 6' (w) x 7' (h)) in > >my shop. Have any of you desgined such a booth? I assume the best design > >is to suck air from it with a filtered inlet. What type of exhaust fan did > >you use? How big? Do you have a source for a fan approved for paint booth > >application? > > > >Thanks, > > > >Doug > > > > > >-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > >= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW > >= 347 Krattley Lane > >= Hudson, WI 54016 > >= 715-386-1239 > >= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com > >-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > > > >Doug, I ran a couple of ropes from I bolts screwed into opposit walls with > a window at one end. I then covered the floor and draped clear plastic over > the ropes to the floor and taped the ends shut and taped it down to the > floor. I used a standard three speed box fan in the window on one end and a > couple of furnace filters on the plastic on the other. Be sure and take the > window screen out or it ends up painted. Works great. Got all the stuff at > the local Home Base store for about 50.00. I've seen this done a number of > times with no problem. Sylvan Doug: It may be done all the time without an explosion proof fan, but if you do so, you are literally taking your life in your hands. The vaporized paint that is coming out of the spray gun is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. One spark from the fan motor will result is an instant flash fire with the room temperature reaching 1600 degrees F. If you have any doubts, E-mail me and I will give you the name and telephone number of a friend who experienced such a flash fire / explosion personally. He received second and third degree burns over 65% of his body and spent 3 months in a burn unit. Despite many surgeries, the scaring is still unsightly and he suffers constant itching, temperature change intollerance and the inability to withstand direct sunlight. IT IS WORTH SPENDING THE MONEY. BUY AN EXPLOSION PROOF FAN OR PAINT OUTDOORS!!! Robert Miller rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Peter Hanna <peterh(at)rdmcorp.com>
Subject: Re: Lyc. IO-360 Sump Swap?
Eric: I have an 0-320 B2C with an updraft sump and looking for a "prop side" injector sump from a 360 for my RV6. I have called both Lycoming and Mattiuk re interchangability, and they both say the gasket part numbers are the same, hence it will fit. Others say minor oil pick-up changes are necesary on any sump interchange, and tubes are generally interchangeable. Mine is a relatively new engine; 2100 ttsn and had a Lycoming Williamsport overhaul. If you are interested in a swap, let me know. Regards, Peter Hanna. > >I just installed my Lycoming IO-360-A1A and need to swap out the sump and >intake tubes. I am not an RV builder, but a Cozy builder, so I need an >updraft sump or maybe one where the servo mounts on the accessory case side >(I'll skip trying to use terms like "front" and "back":-)). It is my >understanding that it is the prop-sided servo mount that goes on easiest for >the RV, so I thought I would check with this group to see if someone wants to >trade. > >The engine I am removing the sump/tubes from has 2100 TTSN on it with no >damage history. It all looks clean and straight. So, if you are interested, >please reply back to me by e-mail. FYI, I am in the Seattle area. > >Thanks, > >Eric Westland > Peter Hanna, RDM Corp, 4-608 Weber St. North, Waterloo, Canada, N2V1K4. B: 519-746-8483 X224, 1-800-567-6227 X224, Fax: 519-746-3317. Email: peterh(at)rdmcorp.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Wiza" <joe(at)flnet.com>
Subject: 200hp lyc
Date: Feb 13, 1997
Presently working on the fuel tank of my rv6. Just got an offer to buy a 1987 200 hp ly engine with 1200hrs total time (no wreck) for $12,000. My questions is has anybody out there experienced installing this engine in the rv6, what kind of modifications did it take in the cowling etc. I'm a first time builder and just threading water so far. Joe/wingtank reply to joe(at)flnet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Phil Arter <arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu>
Subject: RV-8 Web Page
I guess the time has come to go public with my RV-8 Web Page: http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html I'll be updating it soon with images of my built-in electric aileron trim tab installation, and hopefully some wing spars. Phil Arter philip.arter(at)mci2000.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
Been watching the dialog on "simple, cheap and low-cost" attitude indicators. Many folk have already picked up on the shortcomings of many low cost "attitude indicator" offerings . . most notably from the ultra-light contingency. In support of understanding and the exercise of good options I offer the following: "Attitude" is generally understood to describe the positioning of an aircraft with respect to earth surface (the mean surface, ignoring things like mountains, canyons and potholes . . . sea level is about as close to mean surface as one can physically demonstrate). There are four basic means for deducing attitude (1) local reference (2) universe reference (3) inertial reference and (4) gravity reference. All four of these systems are utilized to various degrees in the cockpit of most airplanes. (1) LOCAL REFERENCE is your eyeballs . . . the visual contact with the outside tells us how well we're doing. Sources for error: sloping terrain, obstructions to perception - fog, white-out, glassy seas, etc. (2) UNIVERSE REFERENCE is gyros . . . unless acted upon by some outside force, a gyro will point at some fixed point in space. Obviously, as the earth rotates, a gyro's indication will change depending on latitude of your current location -and- direction the gyro was pointed when it was first spun up. Attitude gyros are fitted with pointing mechanisms that use gravity reference to keep the critter right side up. Heading gyros (unless slaved to a magnetic compass) simply drift as the earth rotates. Hence, they require occasional annual updating to match the magnetic compass. Sources for error: Friction in rotor and gimbal bearings, wind drag inside the instrument (remember, the thing turns at 10,000 rpm - 2" diam rotor has perimeter of 6.3 inches. The SURFACE speed of the rotor is over 80 feet per second!) and mechanically induced errors from erection/calibration systems. For example, if you fly in a coordinated 30 degree banked turn for about 15 minutesand then level the wings, you'll find that your attitude gyro has picked up some error while trying to erect to a new "gravity" vector. (3) INERTIAL REFERENCE says, "if I turn at 3 degrees per second for 10 seconds, I'm now 30 degrees difference from where I started. Hmmmm . . . this is obviously limited. This is how your turn coordinator works. It's a rate sensor that has no idea where you're pointed right now but it does know how fast your heading is CHANGING. Angular rate gyros are core components of an inertial navigation system along with linear rate sensors (accelerometers). These systems must be initialized from a known baseline. Like sitting on the ramp before engine start. The systems may also use data from other parts of the navigation system (iron gyros, keyboard input by pilot, pitot-static transducers, GPS, VLF Nav, Loran, etc.) to decide where we are and what our current attitude is. Once the system is "stood up" it keeps track of linear accelerations (feet per second per second) and rotational rates (degrees per second) in millisecond slices to deduce our current position and attitude. The turn coordinator on the panel is a rate sensor which requires you to INTEGRATE readings with time to deduce a change in heading. Sources for error: Most modern inertial sensors have zero moving parts so things like friction and windage are no problem. No-moving-parts sensors have calibration drifts with respect to temperature but this is small and can be calculated out. The largest source of error is time dependent and based on limits of sensor resolution and magnitude of uncertainty in calculations. Fortunately, the short term stability is VERY good and other sensors such as radio nav aids and iron gyro platforms can be combined with inertial sensors to paint and update a VERY accurate navigation picture for the duration of flight. The needle portion of turn coordinator is also a gyro but it turns at a much lower speed than the attitude and heading gyros. Further, it's constrained with a series of springs that forces the gyro maintain a fixed position with respect to the airplane. As you CHANGE direction, the gyro tugs on the springs with a force that is PROPORTIONAL to your RATE of turn. Obviously, coupling the gyro frame to a pointer allows one to display turning rate on the face of the instrument. This makes your turn-coordinator an INERTIAL REFERENCE device. There are important differences between Turn Coordinator (airplane roll axis displayed on face) and the older Rate of Turning (single, fat, upward pointing needle) instrument. A Turn Coordinator's gyro axis is canted up from horizontal by a few degrees to make it slightly sensitive to ROLL. The old Turning Rate instrument is insensitive to roll rate. This enhancement of instrument makes for more accurate "no gyros" maneuvering. (4) GRAVITY REFERENCE is a important part of the nav sensor system but certain things must be known for gravity to be a useful parameter for display. First, you cannot be changing direction (turning) because a coordinated turn can present a new and totally false picture of where the center of the earth is lies with respect to your aircraft. This is why the needle and ball are combined on our panels. To deduce that wings are level, both needle (turn rate) and ball (gravity vector) values must be zero. Sources for error: The ball in our turn coordinators is about as free from error as any device in the airplane . . . when the ball is centered, you can believe that the gravity vector is parallel with your yaw axis. Now, if the rate of turn is ALSO zero, you can believe that the gravity vector represents an accurate position with respect to the center of the earth. -------------------------- With a little thought you can see that as pilots we use a smoothly integrated combination of local, gravity, and inertial inputs combined with other senses (sound and stick forces) to maneuver an airplane. Gravity and inertial senses in your butt and inner ear are subject to the same confusion factors that plague instruments. Loss of local sensing is best replaced with stable platforms (iron gyros) but it's very possible to get by with a manual integration of inertial and gravity vector data (needle and ball) to keep the dirty side down and the pointy end forward. Obviously, devices offering only gravity referenced displays cannot be depended upon as sole indicators of aircraft attitude. THE FUTURE: A number of manufacturers are offering solid state rate and linear accelerometers. These may be combined with "slow" sensors like GPS and LORAN to mathematically deduce everything you ever wanted to know about where you are, where you're going and whether or not you're right side up. The trick is to design a system that can take data from a variety of simple sensors, deduce what is needed to know and display it, and be capable of falling back on less accurate but equally stable modes of flight in case of certain sensor failures; an electronic reversion to needle-ball-airspeed-position mode from an attitude-position mode. The micro-controller combined with the new families of low cost sensors will make it all possible. WRAP UP: Low cost "attitude" displays are not. The turn coordinator is probably the simplest, most reliable alternative to iron gyros. On anything less than a CAVU day, the T/C should be a dispatch item (don't go flying without it) and it should enjoy two power paths for energy to keep it running. The critter won't do you any good unless you are practiced in it's use. Shoot some non-precision approaches under the hood (make up your own GPS approaches to some little airport . . or even a stretch of straight highway . . . you just need some kind of runway-like ground reference) and get someone to ride shotgun for you several times a year. It's fun, it's enlightening and it could help you avoid bending an otherwise perfectly good airplane! Regards, Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= 72770.552ompuserve.com http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: GARAGE & DOOR SIZE FOR BUILDING RV-6A
Date: Feb 13, 1997
I am planning to build a unattached insulated garage (which we call STUDIO for local zonig, permitting purpose) with radiant warm floor heating using warm (~110 F) warter. The heat source will be a 20 gl hot water heater possibly sublimented with warm water from a storage tank. The tank will be heated during the day from solar collectors.. Size will be 24' x 30' with an 18' x 7' garage door. The size should allow to complete the AP and roll the eintire AP on dollies out of the door (if my paper scale plan is correct). Any experience factor and comments from builders who build their own garage? What I am after are hints like "why did I not incorporate XYZ". ALL comments/help are much apprecieated. THANKS! Lothar* Klingmuller = lothark(at)worldnet.att.net = Denver - (303) 922-2329 h & FAX~~ -6A continueing w/ fuse'ge when garage is build . *(pron'd: "low-TARR") ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Web Page
Phil Arter wrote: > > I guess the time has come to go public with my RV-8 Web Page: > Phil, I don't think you'll have enough room in that workshop.... PatK - RV-6A - insanely jealous of folk with REAL shops. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
Subject: flying and eating
From: jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER)
If you like to flyout for a "$100 hamburger," i just discovered the $100 Hamburger website at http://www.tpwi.com A very extensive list of airports and eating places which is rapidly expanding and is constantly up dated. J. E. Rehler flying RV6A N517RL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler)
Subject: Re: RV-8 Web Page
> > I guess the time has come to go public with my RV-8 Web Page: > > http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html You may want to break it into several pages. It's a real memory chomper. But I have to tell you, that is simply the most GORGEOUS workshop I have ever seen. Absolutely beautiful. I'm jealous as hell. -- "Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!" -- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs "Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com>
Subject: RV-8 Web Page
Date: Feb 13, 1997
Pat, don't feel bad. That's not a workshop, it's some kind of weird warehouse with some airplane parts in the corner. Good lord, I'd never find the house again if I had a shop like that. Phil, you're a mean man. Next time you take pictures of your project, could you at least temporarily put the pieces in a small closet and snap the picture? ;) ___________________________________________________ Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA RV-6AQME, working on left wing >---------- >From: Patrick Kelley[SMTP:mail.ic.net!patk(at)matronics.com] >Sent: Thursday, February 13, 1997 12:09 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Web Page > > >Phil Arter wrote: >> >> I guess the time has come to go public with my RV-8 Web Page: >> >Phil, I don't think you'll have enough room in that workshop.... > >PatK - RV-6A - insanely jealous of folk with REAL shops. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Engine Installation
Listers Well I finally came off the money, and sent Eustace Bowhay a check for a zero time O-320 E2D. the RV-4 airframe I have been working on for the last 3 1/2 years will be finished in a few weeks. Now I venture into unknow territory. I have been reading everything I can about engine installation ( mostly Tony Bingelis ). However one cannot learn everything from a book. What I need to know right now, I think, is what do I need to do to the firewall, and the engine before I hang it on the engine mount. I looked in the archives, but it's getting so big you could spend weeks going through it. Any help from someone who has been down this road before would be of great help. Craig Hiers RV-4 N143CH Tallahassee,FL. I can't afford to eat, but I've got a motor. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GARAGE & DOOR SIZE FOR BUILDING RV-6A
From: cecilth(at)juno.com (Cecil T Hatfield)
Date: Feb 13, 1997
I built my garage with high ceiling and a star to much storage upstairs. Think about it. Cecil RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > Been watching the dialog on "simple, cheap and low-cost" > attitude indicators. Many folk have already picked up on > the shortcomings of many low cost "attitude indicator" > offerings . . most notably from the ultra-light contingency. > In support of understanding and the exercise of good options > I offer the following: > > "Attitude" is generally understood to describe the > positioning of an aircraft with respect to earth surface > (the mean surface, ignoring things like mountains, canyons > and potholes . . . sea level is about as close to mean > surface as one can physically demonstrate). There are > four basic means for deducing attitude (1) local reference > (2) universe reference (3) inertial reference and > (4) gravity reference. > > All four of these systems are utilized to various > degrees in the cockpit of most airplanes. > > (1) LOCAL REFERENCE is your eyeballs . . . the visual > contact with the outside tells us how well we're doing. > > Sources for error: sloping terrain, obstructions to > perception - fog, white-out, glassy seas, etc. > > (2) UNIVERSE REFERENCE is gyros . . . unless acted upon > by some outside force, a gyro will point at some fixed > point in space. Obviously, as the earth rotates, a gyro's > indication will change depending on latitude of your current > location -and- direction the gyro was pointed when it was > first spun up. Attitude gyros are fitted with pointing > mechanisms that use gravity reference to keep the critter > right side up. Heading gyros (unless slaved to a magnetic > compass) simply drift as the earth rotates. Hence, they > require occasional annual updating to match the magnetic > compass. > > Sources for error: Friction in rotor and gimbal bearings, > wind drag inside the instrument (remember, the thing > turns at 10,000 rpm - 2" diam rotor has perimeter of 6.3 > inches. The SURFACE speed of the rotor is over 80 feet per > second!) and mechanically induced errors from > erection/calibration systems. For example, if you > fly in a coordinated 30 degree banked turn for about > 15 minutesand then level the wings, you'll find that your > attitude gyro has picked up some error while trying to > erect to a new "gravity" vector. > > (3) INERTIAL REFERENCE says, "if I turn at 3 degrees per > second for 10 seconds, I'm now 30 degrees difference from > where I started. Hmmmm . . . this is obviously limited. > This is how your turn coordinator works. It's a rate > sensor that has no idea where you're pointed right now > but it does know how fast your heading is CHANGING. > Angular rate gyros are core components of an inertial > navigation system along with linear rate sensors > (accelerometers). These systems must be initialized > from a known baseline. Like sitting on the ramp before > engine start. The systems may also use data from other > parts of the navigation system (iron gyros, keyboard > input by pilot, pitot-static transducers, GPS, VLF Nav, > Loran, etc.) to decide where we are and what our current > attitude is. > > Once the system is "stood up" it keeps track of linear > accelerations (feet per second per second) and rotational > rates (degrees per second) in millisecond slices to deduce > our current position and attitude. The turn coordinator on > the panel is a rate sensor which requires you to INTEGRATE > readings with time to deduce a change in heading. > > Sources for error: Most modern inertial sensors have zero > moving parts so things like friction and windage are no > problem. No-moving-parts sensors have calibration drifts > with respect to temperature but this is small and can be > calculated out. The largest source of error is time dependent > and based on limits of sensor resolution and magnitude of > uncertainty in calculations. Fortunately, the short term > stability is VERY good and other sensors such as radio nav > aids and iron gyro platforms can be combined with inertial > sensors to paint and update a VERY accurate navigation > picture for the duration of flight. > > The needle portion of turn coordinator is also a gyro but > it turns at a much lower speed than the attitude and heading > gyros. Further, it's constrained with a series of springs > that forces the gyro maintain a fixed position with respect > to the airplane. As you CHANGE direction, the gyro tugs on > the springs with a force that is PROPORTIONAL to your RATE > of turn. Obviously, coupling the gyro frame to a pointer > allows one to display turning rate on the face of the > instrument. This makes your turn-coordinator an INERTIAL > REFERENCE device. > > There are important differences between Turn Coordinator > (airplane roll axis displayed on face) and the older Rate of > Turning (single, fat, upward pointing needle) instrument. > A Turn Coordinator's gyro axis is canted up from horizontal > by a few degrees to make it slightly sensitive to ROLL. > The old Turning Rate instrument is insensitive to roll rate. > This enhancement of instrument makes for more accurate > "no gyros" maneuvering. > > (4) GRAVITY REFERENCE is a important part of the nav sensor > system but certain things must be known for gravity to be > a useful parameter for display. First, you cannot be > changing direction (turning) because a coordinated turn can > present a new and totally false picture of where the center > of the earth is lies with respect to your aircraft. > This is why the needle and ball are combined on our panels. > To deduce that wings are level, both needle (turn rate) > and ball (gravity vector) values must be zero. > > Sources for error: The ball in our turn coordinators > is about as free from error as any device in the airplane > . . . when the ball is centered, you can believe that > the gravity vector is parallel with your yaw axis. Now, > if the rate of turn is ALSO zero, you can believe that > the gravity vector represents an accurate position with > respect to the center of the earth. > > -------------------------- > > With a little thought you can see that as pilots we use a > smoothly integrated combination of local, gravity, and > inertial inputs combined with other senses (sound and stick > forces) to maneuver an airplane. Gravity and inertial senses > in your butt and inner ear are subject to the same confusion > factors that plague instruments. Loss of local sensing is > best replaced with stable platforms (iron gyros) but it's > very possible to get by with a manual integration of > inertial and gravity vector data (needle and ball) to keep > the dirty side down and the pointy end forward. > > Obviously, devices offering only gravity referenced displays > cannot be depended upon as sole indicators of aircraft attitude. > > THE FUTURE: > > A number of manufacturers are offering solid state rate and > linear accelerometers. These may be combined with "slow" > sensors like GPS and LORAN to mathematically deduce everything > you ever wanted to know about where you are, where you're > going and whether or not you're right side up. The trick > is to design a system that can take data from a variety of > simple sensors, deduce what is needed to know and display it, > and be capable of falling back on less accurate but equally > stable modes of flight in case of certain sensor failures; > an electronic reversion to needle-ball-airspeed-position > mode from an attitude-position mode. The micro-controller > combined with the new families of low cost sensors will > make it all possible. > > WRAP UP: > > Low cost "attitude" displays are not. The turn coordinator > is probably the simplest, most reliable alternative to iron > gyros. On anything less than a CAVU day, the T/C should be > a dispatch item (don't go flying without it) and it should > enjoy two power paths for energy to keep it running. The > critter won't do you any good unless you are practiced in > it's use. Shoot some non-precision approaches under the > hood (make up your own GPS approaches to some little airport > . . or even a stretch of straight highway . . . you just > need some kind of runway-like ground reference) and get > someone to ride shotgun for you several times a year. > It's fun, it's enlightening and it could help you avoid > bending an otherwise perfectly good airplane! > > Regards, > > Bob . . . > AeroElectric Connection > //// > (o o) > ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== > | | > | Go ahead, make my day . . . | > | Show me where I'm wrong. | > ================================= > 72770.552ompuserve.com > http://www.aeroelectric.com Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA(cant believe I read the whole thing!!!!!!!!!!) Dave Price PP-ASEL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Web Page
Mitch, hi Aw, now you're making me feel bad. That is the closet. :^} -- Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005 philip.arter(at)mci2000.com (303)459-0435 home (303)497-8069 work ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Engine Installation
Herman Yes you are correct, it is a first run E2D overhauled to factory spec's. the motor is coming from Eustace Bowhay who live's in Blind Bay B.C. I paid 10,700$ U.S. seems like it was about 70 cents for every canadian dollar, exchange rate. I jumped on this motor real fast, because here in Florida you will pay about 4,500$-5,000$ for a run out case on it's thrid overhaul. Also Eustace is held in very high reguard by Van's and a lot of other people. I could not see myself going wrong here. the motor is also set up to run a constant speed prop, but I'm going to put the plug in it and run a fixed pitch prop. Good luck with your motor, you should not have any problems selling it. Craig Hiers Tallahassee,FL. RV-4 N143CH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
David Price wrote: > > > //// > > (o o) > > ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== > > | | > > | Go ahead, make my day . . . | > > | Show me where I'm wrong. | > > ================================= > > 72770.552ompuserve.com > > http://www.aeroelectric.com > > Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA(cant believe I read the > whole thing!!!!!!!!!!) > Dave Price > PP-ASEL Hey dave, I read the whole thing and learned something, which is what the RV list is about, If you don't like it use the delete key, or better yet unsubscribe yourself. If you don't have something good to say don't say anything at all. Craig Hiers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: McManD(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 13, 1997
Subject: Canopy Frame RV-6(Tip-up)
Please Respond either to this list or to: jbalbierer(at)nysyr.ang.af.mil My canopy frame on a tip-up canopy is 3/8" inward from the edge of the fuselage at the front of the frame on both the left and right sides. I believe that my spacing on the longerons is wide at this point. Note: the frame will not extend any further without binding the welded tubing. Any solutions, other than shimming at this point? Thanks. John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
David Price wrote: > MUCH SNIPPED... > > Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: Regards, > > > > Bob . . . > > AeroElectric Connection > > //// > > (o o) > > ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== > > | | > > | Go ahead, make my day . . . | > > | Show me where I'm wrong. | > > ================================= > > 72770.552ompuserve.com > > http://www.aeroelectric.com > > Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA(cant believe I read the > whole thing!!!!!!!!!!) > Dave Price > PP-ASEL Hey Dave, I can't believe you REPRINTED the whole thing. Give US (and Matt) a break! Personally, I happen to like Bob's effort. Get back in your 150! Scott Comm & CFII... ASEL,ASES,AMEL,glider & A&P ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Shawn Falzarano <falzsf(at)terminal.autobahn.mb.ca>
Subject: Cost of a new IO-360
Just curios of the cost for new IO-360 engine is? Please state which funds you taking about too, I live in canada. Thanks for the info (just looking into the kit for a future build of one!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 13, 1997
Subject: Lead time on O-360, C/S prop
If you are considering buying an engine from Van's, order EARLY. I ordered an engine and prop a couple of weeks ago. Van's is calling for the engine to be shipped from the factory 10 June 97, the prop is supposed to ship 10 May 97. Tim --------------------- Tim Lewis RV-6AQ #60023 timrv6a(at)earthlink.net ----------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Web Page
Phil Arter wrote: > > > I guess the time has come to go public with my RV-8 Web Page: > > http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html > > I'll be updating it soon with images of my built-in electric aileron > trim tab installation, and hopefully some wing spars. > > Phil Arter > philip.arter(at)mci2000.com Phil, is this really your shop or computer enhanced pics of aluminum over a Sunset Magazine Home of the month. Sorry about that view, it must be very distracting! Ed Cole Working with proseal in a small, cold, unpainted, crowded, messy garage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 13, 1997
Subject: Re: Skyforce SkyMap II
<< The article isn't entirely accurate. The diagonal of the actual map portion of the screen on my Skymap is 3.25" in "portrait" display mode, and 3.75" with the screen set in "landscape" mode. >> Bob, Thanks for the up-date. I seem to get some added and more accurate information when I stir the pot a little. I'm just now starting to look for a GPS unit for my 6-A so any information helps. Gene francis cafgef(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > Been watching the dialog on "simple, cheap and low-cost" > > attitude indicators. Many folk have already picked up on > > the shortcomings of many low cost "attitude indicator" > > offerings . . most notably from the ultra-light contingency. > > In support of understanding and the exercise of good options > > I offer the following: >--------------------------------- > Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA(cant believe I read the > whole thing!!!!!!!!!!) > Dave Price -------------------------------------- Dave, I can't believe you RE-PRINTED the whole thing. What a waste of Matt's archive space! Elon ps: Nice job Bob. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bennett(at)healey.com.au
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Subject: Flaming on the list
A suggestion for dealing with unwarranted flaming. Ignore it on the list. Don't give the perpetrator the satisfaction of a public response. Send a PRIVATE email. If he gets five private shafts he'll think twice next time. If he gets five hundred, he might even examine his behaviour. You don't have to shout at someone to get stuffed. That only encourages some of them. Sometimes it's more effective to quietly invite them to visit a taxidermist. Peter Bennett Sydney Australia RV6 working inside fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EBundy2620(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
> now, I think, is what do I need to do to the firewall, and the engine > before I hang it on the engine mount. I looked in the archives, but > it's getting so big you could spend weeks going through it. Nothing really. It is almost imperative that you hang the engine before you start cutting any holes in the firewall otherwise you will end up with holes that aren't quite in the right place. Your engine probably doesn't have two ports for oil pressure, so make sure you put the fitting on the engine first or it's real tough to mount it later. Hang the engine, then write down EVERYTHING that will need to be plumbed, wired, hung, and otherwise connected to the engine. There is a great list in one of Bingellis' books that covers just about everything. Then draw outlines of everything that mounts on, or holes that go through, the firewall. Once you're reasonably certain you haven't forgotten anything (right..) start with one system at a time; i.e., plumb the *entire* fuel system. Then the alternator system, etc. As much as possible, resist the urge to bounce from one thing to another. Otherwise it's real easy to forget to tighten something that you planned on "getting back to". Remember, every wire and hose has only two ends. Hook up one end, then the other, then move on. Ed Bundy RV6A #23834 N427EM - flying Eagle, ID ebundy2620(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
David Price wrote: > > > Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > > > > Been watching the dialog on "simple, cheap and low-cost" > > attitude indicators. > > > > > > > > -------------------------- > > > Regards, > > > > Bob . . . > > AeroElectric Connection > > //// > > (o o) > > ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== > > | | > > | Go ahead, make my day . . . | > > | Show me where I'm wrong. | > > ================================= > > 72770.552ompuserve.com > > http://www.aeroelectric.com > Bob I'm very,very sorry for the stupid comment I made last night and the Matt and the rest of the group I hope we can somehow forget I ever said anything.I'v had a real bad personal problem and wasent thinking straight or paying attention to the real grasp of the thread that was so well put ,and took a lot of time and thought.I'm not realy like that!!!. So I hope you can forgive me,and we can get by this.Will unsuscribe if neccesary!!!!I do enjoy learning here. So Sorry,David Price PP-AS#%$#le ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: Cost of a new IO-360
> Just curios of the cost for new IO-360 engine is? Please state >which funds you taking about too, I live in canada. The January 1, 1996 Lycoming Price list shows prices ranging from USD 39,089 to USD 40,595 depending upon model and application. I'm guessing that Van's price for this engine will be in the mid-$20K range. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Craig, an E2D is not capabable of running a const. speed prop. It was either modified or is not an E2D. The E2D's were used on Cessna 172 with fixed pitch and the acc case does not have provisions for the prop govner and the crank is not set up for const. speed. I own two E2D's so I know. It is either some thing like E3D or whatever or someone modified it or someone is confused. Herman > > Herman > > Yes you are correct, it is a first run E2D overhauled to factory > spec's. the motor is coming from Eustace Bowhay who live's in > Blind Bay B.C. I paid 10,700$ U.S. seems like it was about 70 cents > for every canadian dollar, exchange rate. I jumped on this motor > real fast, because here in Florida you will pay about 4,500$-5,000$ > for a run out case on it's thrid overhaul. Also Eustace is held in > very high reguard by Van's and a lot of other people. I could not > see myself going wrong here. the motor is also set up to run a constant > speed prop, but I'm going to put the plug in it and run a fixed > pitch prop. > Good luck with your motor, you should not have any problems selling > it. > > > Craig Hiers > Tallahassee,FL. > RV-4 N143CH > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough)
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
> now, I think, is what do I need to do to the firewall, and the engine > before I hang it on the engine mount. I looked in the archives, but > it's getting so big you could spend weeks going through it. Many folks have forgotten the oil pressure line fitting before hanging older engines(I'm not sure but I think newer engines have an alternate hole) Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com>
, , , , , , , <73101.73(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: RE: HS Stab
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Oh, and by the way, buy yourself a set of RV6 preview plans. It costs about $25 or so but shows you a very good idea of how these pieces all will go together. Don't build from them of course, but just take a good look. If you don't want to buy them I'm sure you can find a 6'er who will loan them to you for a look. They explained a lot to me. -Mike unpacking spars! ---------- From: Mark Reisdorfer [SMTP:73101.73(at)CompuServe.COM] Sent: Thursday, February 13, 1997 10:33 PM Bunn #23; Jim Cimino; John Ciolino; Ron Dunn; Mark Goldberg #87; Andy Hanna; Joel Harting; FC Hollendorfer; Kevin Horton; Brian Huffaker; Steve Johnson; George Kilishek; Rob Lanier #134; Marc LeFevre; Don McNamara; Dirk Meulemans; Tony Moradian; John Myrick III; John Perrin #118; Mark Reisdorfer #20; RV-List; Mike Weller; Rod Woodard Subject: HS Stab Help! I am finally getting to the point of attaching the skins to my HS stab and have a question. When attaching the HS-607 to the front spar the drawings show trimming the flange of the 607 to clear the HS-814, and also trimming the skin to clear the HS-814 as well. It looks to me as if there is insufficient edge distance on the flange of the 607 if it is they only thing trimmed. Can I trim the 814 a little to decrease the amount taken off the 607 flange? This would possibly allow proper edge distance. Have any of you trimmed your HS skins in this area? It is difficult to see if this is needed without the preview plans of course. Thanks Mark Reisdorfer 73101.73(at)compuserve.com 80020 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AB320FLYER(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Subject: Re: True Airspeed using GPS
>(Again, I'm not flaming)- yeah, sure John John, Well, first of all I didn't originate this formula I just passed it on, and I'm probably worse at this math stuff than you are but I'll try to defend the logic of it if I can, since I posted it. What we are really after is an indication in the cockpit that will give us the closest approximation of our speed through the air and consequently over the ground that we can get. At sea level (or more desireably just a few feet above) and standard temperature and pressure our indicated airspeed should equal ground speed in a zero wind condition except for instrument and instalation errors. If we apply those we have calibrated airspeed which should be as accurate a reflection of our groundspeed as we can get. As the pressure and temperature vary from standard conditions the calibrated airspeed will have to be corrected to give us this close approximation of our actual speed, so you're right that it would more accurately reflect true airspeed. All this formula does is use GPS speeds to factor out the effect of wind so that we can compare our indicated, calibrated, or true airspeed (take your pick) to what we are actually doing. But you already know all this don't you. If any of what I just said makes sense you're probably just as lost as I am. Joel Harding ab320flyer(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
David Price wrote: > > > David Price wrote: > > > > > > Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > > > > > > > Been watching the dialog on "simple, cheap and low-cost" > > > attitude indicators. > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------------------- > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > Bob . . . > > > AeroElectric Connection > > > //// > > > (o o) > > > ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== > > > | | > > > | Go ahead, make my day . . . | > > > | Show me where I'm wrong. | > > > ================================= > > > 72770.552ompuserve.com > > > http://www.aeroelectric.com > > Bob I'm very,very sorry for the stupid comment I made last night and > the Matt and the rest of the group I hope we can somehow forget I ever > said anything.I'v had a real bad personal problem and wasent thinking > straight or paying attention to the real grasp of the thread that was so > well put ,and took a lot of time and thought.I'm not realy like that!!!. > So I hope you can forgive me,and we can get by this.Will unsuscribe if > neccesary!!!!I do enjoy learning here. > So Sorry,David Price > PP-AS#%$#le Two thumbs up to you, Dave. Welcome back.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca (joehine)
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
Date: Feb 14, 1997
all of Bob's stuff snipped >> >> Bob . . . >> AeroElectric Connection >> //// >> (o o) >> ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== >> | | >> | Go ahead, make my day . . . | >> | Show me where I'm wrong. | >> ================================= >> 72770.552ompuserve.com >> http://www.aeroelectric.com > >Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA(cant believe I read the >whole thing!!!!!!!!!!) >Dave Price >PP-ASEL I can't believe you reposted the whole thing!!!! Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)msn.com>
Subject: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
Bob(of Aerolectric fame): I agree with Craig's sentiments. Thanks for the info on "attitudes" and please keep it up. I think you'll find most of us appreciate and look forward to your occasional bits of information and other insights. Paul Osterman RV6A Anderson, Ca Riveting wing skins David Price wrote: > Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA... > Dave Price PP-ASEL Hey dave, I read the whole thing and learned something, which is what the RV list is about, If you don't like it use the delete key, or better yet unsubscribe yourself. If you don't have something good to say don't say anything at all. Craig Hiers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com>
Subject: over-voltage
I have a question for the folks with flying RV's. A friend that is building a -6 is in the over-voltage (OV) portion of his project. The OV unit that I have in my plane is no longer available at ACS. He has already purchased his regulator, so is hesitant on buying the regulator from B&C with OV protection. The question is how may of you are using OV and what good/bad experiences have you had with your choice. Also maybe info on where to buy one etc... I have searched the archives and found a couple of entrys pertaining to this. Thanks for your help in advance. Todd N92TM Flying (I plan to be at Sun-N-Fun) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy Frame RV-6(Tip-up)
>My canopy frame on a tip-up canopy is 3/8" inward from the edge of the >fuselage at the front of the frame on both the left and right sides. I >believe that my spacing on the longerons is wide at this point. Note: the >frame will not extend any further without binding the welded tubing. Any >solutions, other than shimming at this point? Thanks. John John, Can you cut into the "U" channel outboard of the two canopy pivot points, bend the "U" channel up which will swing the bottom of the channel out so as to be closer to flush with the fuselage sides. Then, you can rivet on patches that span the "V" cut and regain the needed strength. I cut one side of my canopy this way so as to get better alignment. Also, I made new canopy skirts that extended down, over the fuselage sides. The edges of these skins matched with the front and rear fuselage skins. I thought this looked better, was easier to seal and gave more flexability for fit as the deeper side skins give you some leeway for fit. Regards, Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "KEN HARRILL" <KHarrill(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Bob, Thanks for the excellent article on gyros! I am a few years away from flying, and I am continually looking for information to help in designing the optimum panel, considering cost and rapidly changing technology. Please keep coming with this kind information. The large majority of builders on the RV-List appreciate your efforts, even though there is an occasional individual who responds negatively. Ken Harrill RV - 6, wings K.Harrill(at)Worldnet.att.net PS: I sincerely doubt that I will ever make your day!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: David sez he's sorry, Bob sez no sweat!
>Bob I'm very,very sorry for the stupid comment >I made last night and the Matt and the rest of >the group I hope we can somehow forget I ever >said anything.I'v had a real bad personal >problem and wasent thinking straight or paying >attention to the real grasp of the thread that >was so well put ,and took a lot of time and >thought. I'm not realy like that!!!. >So I hope you can forgive me,and we can get >by this.Will unsuscribe if neccesary!!!!I >do enjoy learning here. Apology accepted and thank you. Please don't leave the group . . . do that and you REALLY make us mad! If you're building an RV (or any other airplane) we'll appreciate your participation. I think this is a good place to END this thread guys . . and David, how far along are you on your airplane? Regards, Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= 72770.552(at)compuserve.com http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: Meulemans Dirk <100554.1236(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: HS Stab
Mark, I'm about to close the HS skins on my RV-8. the skin is completely clear of HS 810, but I did have a small overlap with the flanges of HS 814. I decided not to trim the skin at this stage (i.e. without preview plans) because I can't see the point of it. That small piece of HS814 doesn't seem to disturb the overlaying skin profile. However, I just discovered another RV website (sorry, forgot the name of the owner) that has a very sharp picture of the piece we're talking about. This guy did trim the skin around the HS 814. Have a look at: http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html Dirk Meulemans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: over-voltage
Date: Feb 14, 1997
I am flying without OV protection. I guess thats kind of like having unsafe sex. I expect you don't hear about the ones that have been saved by OV protection. You only hear about the ones that did not have it and had their avionics fried. I know of one Cessna that this happend to and it fried all the avionics. That is the only one I have ever heard about. Herman > > The question is how may of you are using OV and what good/bad experiences > have you had with your choice. Also maybe info on where to buy one etc... I > have searched the archives and found a couple of entrys pertaining to this. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RFlunker(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Subject: Wing Storage "Cart"
Hello Everyone, I'm in need of a moveable wing storage cart, but before building one I was wondering if perhaps someone might have one available in the North Dallas area. Please e-mail me directly if you have something to share. Dick Flunker (RFLUNKER(at)AOL.COM) RV-6A, putting skins on fuse. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Lorz" <tlorz(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: HS412PP/HS411PP
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Here is what happened. I have the rear spar "fabricated" and am preparing to attach the HS411PP with the AN3 bolts. I check the plans, go to my jig, decide what I need to do, go back to the plans a last time to be sure I know what I am trying to do, go back to the jig and stand in front of one HS412PP brackets and drill the holes for the HS411PP AN3 bolts. AFTER the holes are drilled it occurs to me that I should be standing directly in center of the rear spar assembly. (Later my wife tells me she could see me through the kitchen window that looks directly into my shop. She sees a quizzical look come over my face, and the word "WHAT" spoken.) I called Van's and asked if it would be okay to just bolt this HS412PP onto the rear spar like the HS411PP is, or do I have to start over. Someone there sent me four bolts, and said they didn't know. My questions: 1) Is this okay? 2) Since everything else is riveted closed around the 412PP what happens if the bolts come loose. They are self-locking nuts/bolts, will that be okay? Sincerely, Your fellow lister ... Terry Lorz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com>

Subject: HS Stab
Date: Feb 14, 1997
The point is it will be very hard to cleanly trim the piece after it is riveted over the flange of the HS 814. How will you get a file in between them to smooth out the edge of the skin cutout without disturbing the HS 814 flange? Mark, I'm about to close the HS skins on my RV-8. the skin is completely clear of HS 810, but I did have a small overlap with the flanges of HS 814. I decided not to trim the skin at this stage (i.e. without preview plans) because I can't see the point of it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net>
Subject: (no subject)
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > I think this is a good place to END this thread > guys . . and David, how far along are you > on your airplane? > > Regards, > > Bob . . . > AeroElectric Connection > Hi again, I'm in the process of selling all my other toy's so I can afford to do this with out disrupting my business and wrestling with the price of a 160 lycoming mid-time for a RV-4.I have alot of tools ,no rivet tools yet but I am a cabinet maker with some tools that will handle alum.including milling machine and a large shop with a good spray booth.At this time I can handle bying rivet tools and the first kit parts but have read horror stories of they have you're money and one day you will see the stuff.I have looked at aircraft ownership for awhile and think homebuilt is the only way that makes sense for my finances plus it seems that this is a better product in the long run than bying a 25 year old piper,less room but way,way neater.I am on the fence to when to start in this project (tommorro or next month).I'm interested in vfr only and manual trims and maybe backseat rudders,don't know who will be there at this time.Don't think I can afford to be arobatic but would love to be one day.Going to get my tailwheel endorsment soon in a cub and someone I know that has a RV-4 said that the RV-4 is easy compared to alot of other taildraggers.He also has offered to help me with my flying skills when it's time.I have enjoyed the personal pages people have put togather with there pride and joy's with all the links from here and hope in the future to have my own(if I can learn how to spell and type)thats all for now and I will just read and sit back and enjoy all the good info. David Price PP-ASEL in northern NJ. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: Mike Flaherty <yogieb(at)pipeline.com>
Subject: Re: Performance Equations
> >Listers, > > I'm trying to come up with a spread sheet to calculate aircraft >performance characteristics. I need formulas to compute density altitude >and CAS, given Altitude, OTA, Baraometer, etc. Does anybody have these >in a practical form? > > Where can I get the power setting curves for the O-320-D1A engine? > > >Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV >wstucklen1(at)juno.com Here are two density altitude formula's I found in Kitplane magazine. DA=E+(66*(T-(59-(E*.0054)))) This is for Farenheit DA=E+(66*(5/9)*(T-(15-E*(5/9)*.0054)))) This is for Celcius E= Elevation T= Temperature I hope this helps. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: lsmith(at)coastalnet.com (Louis E. Smith Jr.)
Subject: Re: over-voltage
> > I am flying without OV protection. > I guess thats kind of like having unsafe sex. > >> >> The question is how may of you are using OV and what good/bad experiences >> have you had with your choice. Also maybe info on where to buy one etc... I >> have searched the archives and found a couple of entrys pertaining to this. The RV-4 that I built in 1991 had a 60 amp Nippon Denso alternator with an internal voltage regulator. I was using no overvoltage protection. On the return trip from Sun-N-Fun 1992, the voltage regulator died. My com radio was history. It was a TKM MX-11. I sent it back to the factory and they fixed it for no charge with no questions asked. I have allready purchased the "over voltage module" that Bob Nuckolls sell to go in the RV-8 that I am now building. Left and right wing skins fitted. Regards, Louis Smith lsmith(at)coastalnet.com Rocky Mount, NC RV-8 #80126 wings N801RV reserved RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
Subject: Re: over-voltage
The question is how may of you are using OV and what good/bad experiences >> have you had with your choice. Also maybe info on where to buy one etc... I >> have searched the archives and found a couple of entrys pertaining to this. >> I am pretty sure that Bob Nuckols sells what is called a'crow bar' over voltage cut out. I had expected a crow bar encased in a box with a glass labeled 'break glass, use crow bar to smash any over volts in cockpit'. But no, it looks like a package of about 10 or 15 stamps glued together in a stack with a couple of wires coming out of then. About $35 if bought assembled, don't remember the kit price. I've had one for some time, and it is as effective as the elephant protector I have in the a/c, haven't had any elephants nor over voltage problems. Bob, can you jump in here with the details? (the OV, not the elephants) John Darby RV6 N61764 flying Stephenville TX johnd@our-town.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
Subject: Re: True Airspeed using GPS
Joel; I understand the GPS/loran method of establishing a true a/s by washing out the wind effects of ground speed. I do it by 4 headings, and not as much math, but it works. I just didn't see how the method established the calibrated a/s, and if it did, I wanted to try and understand and use it. But from what you have followed up on, I am assuming it is solving for true a/s. I copy on the TAS and CAS being the same at sea level, standard day etc. and the foobar that comes up when you go non standard non sea level etc. John Darby RV6 N61764 flying Stephenville TX johnd@our-town.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: Re: over-voltage
The OV unit that I have in my plane is no longer available at ACS. >He has already purchased his regulator, so is hesitant on buying the >regulator from B&C with OV protection. > The question is how may of you are using OV and what good/bad experiences >have you had with your choice. >Todd N92TM Flying (I plan to be at Sun-N-Fun) Todd, I have one of Bob Nuckolls crowbar overvoltage modules installed in my six. No problems with the unit, it was easy to install and inexpensive. You might drop Bob an E-mail and check it out. Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: McManD(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 1997
Subject: Wing Rotisserie, and storage cart
Thinking of painting wings off plane. Has any one got plans on the "rotisserie" ?, yes I had to leave AOL...go to Word, and get this one from spell checker and come back ; ) . Probably could help if I got some plans for a wing storage cart too and long as I'm at it. Thus.... I too am in need of a moveable wing storage cart, so I'll ask also. Before building one, perhaps someone might have one available in the Syracuse/central NY area. Please e-mail me directly if you have some ideas. David McManmon McManD(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 1997
Subject: Re: Wing Storage "Cart"
Dick I would be glad to build you one if you can not find one , I'm also looking into a second class on finsihing up the RV's....George Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 1997
Subject: Re: Wing Rotisserie, and storage cart
Dave , call me at 817-439-3280 and I can tell you in about 2 minutes now to build one , I used one to paint my plane and it does a good job....George Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Man.Press.Ga.
From: lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald)
Date: Feb 15, 1997
Hi! Someone recently posted an article on this list informing us on how an manifold press. gauge can be used for power information. I wanted to save it but I guess I deleted it instead. Could that person please repost it or send it to me at lm4(at)juno.com Thanks in advance, Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com>
Subject: Re: Cost of a new IO-360
>Just curios of the cost for new IO-360 engine is? The January 1997 Air Power price list says=8A NEW AIR REMAN AIR O/H AIR CORE MODEL LIST POWER LIST POWER LIST POWER COST IO-360-A1A $33,627 $27,598 $25,105 $20,680 $17,484 $14,494 $6,700 IO-360-A1B $33,512 $27,505 $25,105 $20,680 $17,197 $14,261 $6,700 IO-360-A1B6 $33,471 $27,472 $25,149 $20,716 $17,197 $14,261 $6,700 IO-360-A2B $33,405 $27,418 $25,990 $21,399 $17,863 $14,801 $6,700 IO-360-A3B6 $34,216 $28,077 $26,647 $21,932 $18,289 $15,147 $6,700 IO-360-B1B $32,513 $26,694 $24,242 $19,980 $16,581 $13,760 $6,700 IO-360-B1E $31,353 $25,752 $23,298 $19,213 $16,138 $13,401 $6,700 IO-360-B1F $31,425 $25,811 $24,242 $19,980 $16,581 $13,760 $6,700 IO-360-C1C $32,618 $26,779 $24,569 $20,245 $16,760 $13,906 $6,700 IO-360-C1C6 $34,058 $27,948 $25,822 $21,262 $17,706 $14,674 $6,700 IO-360-C1D6 $33,791 $27,732 $25,676 $21,144 $17,550 $14,547 $6,700 IO-360-C1E6 $34,742 $28,504 $26,530 $21,837 $18,190 $15,067 $6,700 IO-360-L2A $31,425 $25,811 $24,242 $19,980 $16,581 $13,760 $6,700 John Top Phone: (619) 549-3556 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us>
Subject: Re: Wing Storage "Cart"
aol.com!RFlunker(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > Hello Everyone, > > I'm in need of a moveable wing storage cart, but before building one I was > wondering if perhaps someone might have one available in the North Dallas > area. Please e-mail me directly if you have something to share. > > Dick Flunker (RFLUNKER(at)AOL.COM) > RV-6A, putting skins on fuse. I will also be in need of a "Wing Cart" this summer. Does anyone have a drawing of one that may be posted or made available be e-mail. Thanks -- Rick Osgood Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com>
Subject: Re: HS412PP/HS411PP
Terry Lorz wrote: > > I called Van's and asked if it would be okay to just bolt this HS412PP onto > the rear spar like the HS411PP is, or do I have to start over. Someone > there sent me four bolts, and said they didn't know. > My questions: > 1) Is this okay? > 2) Since everything else is riveted closed around the 412PP what happens if > the bolts come loose. They are self-locking nuts/bolts, will that be okay? > Sincerely, > > Your fellow lister ... > Terry Lorz Man, you ask hard questions. My recollection of AC43.13 is that it is acceptable practice to replace a rivet with a bolt or screw. If you're nervoous about not being able to inspect the nut later, another possibility is to use AN470-AD6 rivets. Put the factory head against the inside of the spar, and form the shop head against the steel bracket. There are many postings in the archives about pounding #6 rivets. If it were me though, I would start over. It may seem like a big inconvenience now, but later in retrospect you'll be glad you did. -- Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005 philip.arter(at)mci2000.com http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html (303)459-0435 home ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > (4) GRAVITY REFERENCE is a important part of the nav sensor > system but certain things must be known for gravity to be > a useful parameter for display. First, you cannot be > changing direction (turning) because a coordinated turn can > present a new and totally false picture of where the center > of the earth is lies with respect to your aircraft. > Interesting article Bob. I bought a digital level to use in constructing my RV-4. I wondered if the same type of sensor could be used to make an inexpensive attitude indicator, and quickly answered my own question by holding it at a 45 degree angle and spinning around in a circle (while no one was watching, of course) to simulate a coordinated turn. The reading dropped to much less than 45 degrees, so obviously gravity is the reference. A local friend, John Sheldrick, who's new RV-6 was pictured in a recent RVator, is the retired Engineering Manager of Delco Electronics Avionics Div., which builds inertial nav systems for military and commercial heavies. Very interesting guy to talk to and a very interesting topic. Bob Reiff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz>
Subject: Broken canopy
RVator canopy repairers! I post this on behalf of one who is not on the list who has a tip up canopy that has just had a lower corner piece of the pexiglass approximately 6"X 1" break off when he was closing it. This has broken along side the pop rivets in the tilt frame. The archives talk about cracks that can be 'repaired' but what about sections? Can any of the superglues be used? Any suggestions are welcome and you can Email me direct at lcoats(at)wave.co.nz and I can post a summary of 'fixes' back to the list if there are any..... L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 168hr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
>Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA(cant believe I read the >whole thing!!!!!!!!!!) >Dave Price >PP-ASEL > Hey Dave, I can't believe you reposted the whole thing! Why? I know it was good, but dang, I was reading your reply to see if you had something to add. You didn't. Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction) midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: Re: Man.Press.Ga.
>Someone recently posted an article on this list informing us on how an >manifold press. gauge can be used for power information. I wanted to save >it but I guess I deleted it instead. Could that person please repost it >or send it to me at lm4(at)juno.com >Thanks in advance, Larry Larry, The info was published in a RVator. I'm not close to my back issues now so don't have a reference. I did build a table in a spreadsheet to derive percent power to go along with the true, calibrated airspeed data (derived by a 3 way run, noting GPS groundspeed as has been recently discussed on the list). The RVator article gave several different points like 75, 65 % power, etc. and I interpolated (?) the rest of the points. I'm not a mathamatician (heck, I can't spell, either) so use this at your own risk. The article said to add the first two digits of the rpm and of the manifold presure. If they add up to 48, that equals 75% power. I think the article also gave a sum of 46 as 68% power and 44 as 62% power. 40 48.0% power 41 52.0% 42 55.0% 43 58.0% 44 62.0% 45 65.0% 46 68.0% 47 72.0% 48 75.0% 49 78.0% 50 82.0% 51 85.0% Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Broken canopy
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com>
Previously written: RVator canopy repairers! I post this on behalf of one who is not on the list who has a tip up canopy that has just had a lower corner piece of the pexiglass approximately 6"X 1" break off when he was closing it. This has broken along side the pop rivets in the tilt frame. The archives talk about cracks that can be 'repaired' but what about sections? Can any of the superglues be used? ----------------------- I started a thread about 2 months ago about a crack I put into my canopy while drilling a rivet hole in it. Lots of discussion and conjecture from the list, which led me to my local acrylic plastic supplier (I called Van's re: a replacement canopy, but $480 for an RV-4 canopy plus crating and shipping seemed too steep versus my vanity over a 3" crack). The product recommended by the plexiglas supplier was IPS Corporation's Weld-on 3. There are different numbers for this product, depended on its viscosity. The #3 version is a clear, water-thin, very fast curing solvent cement designed for joining acrylic (Methylene Chloride is the active bonding ingredient required for plexiglass.) The thin Weld-on 3 has a capillary action which draws it into a crack or joint, ensuring the solvent gets to the mating surfaces. As thin as this solvent is, it is important to control it carefully, or it will run all over the plexiglas surface, with a chance of crazing or fogging it. I also bought a squeeze bottle equipped with a hypodermic needle-type of spout - this product was called a "Hypo-200", mfg by Gaunt Industries, and was a controllable tool for applying the cement. Before gluing my crack, I practiced on some scrap plexiglass to get a feel for its viscosity and the cured strength of the bond. (Of course, it was hard to crack the plexiglass on purpose, even whacking it with a hammer!) Total bonding strength is achieved in 24-48 hours, and I could not break the glued joints. The plastic supplier claimed the bond would be as strong as the basic material, but the repaired part will not be as strong as an undamaged part due to the internal stress resulting from the original crack. The crack is still visible after the repair, but the glue is virtually invisible. In my case, my crack occured on the bottom edge of the canopy right at the rear seat back. To hide my repaired crack I laid up a non-structural, cosmetic-only, fiberglass canopy bow at this station of the canopy (behind the rear seat passenger's head). I think this turned out very well - not a player for everyone though, depending on the location of the crack. I can discuss the canopy bow in detail if anyone is interested. Longer than I expected, but I hope this helps your friend with his canopy problem. (Installing the brake lines) Mike Kukulski RV-4 N96MK kukulski(at)highfiber.com Albuquerque, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Stephen Jackson Soule <ssoule(at)vbimail.champlain.edu>
Subject: Re: Wing Rotisserie, and storage cart
Hey Dave ... If you get some plans let me know, I need to build a cart/storage rack too. Steve Huntington, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
David Price wrote: > > > Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > > > I think this is a good place to END this thread > > guys . . and David, how far along are you > > on your airplane? > > > > Regards, > > > > Bob . . . > > AeroElectric Connection > > Hi again, > I'm in the process of selling all my other toy's so I can afford to do this with out disrupting my > business and wrestling with the price of a 160 lycoming mid-time for a RV-4.I have alot of tools ,no rivet > tools yet but I am a cabinet maker with some tools that will handle alum.including milling machine and a > large shop with a good spray booth.At this time I can handle bying rivet tools and the first kit parts but David Your cabinet making skills will pay off big time in building an RV. As for Bob, I know very little about how aircraft fight instruments work, so when Bob speaks I listen ( besides he got 32 of my dollars for his book and it's well worth it ). All is forgiven. I think it's time for a big group hug. Craig Hiers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com>
Subject: HS412PP/HS411PP
Terry, I disagree with Phil's advice to "start over". I think that using AN525-10R10 screws would be perfectly acceptable for the application at hand (they are specified to replace #4 rivets to attach the aileron brackets that were mis- drilled on the quickbuilds). And you don't need to check them after installation any more than you do the numerous bolts that attach the ribs to the main spar which can't be reached either after the wings are skinned. Only you and the "list" will ever know! Les Williams RV-6AQBME #60027 finishing wings RV-6A #20299 complete 4/92, sold 10/95, 350 terrific hrs ---------- From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Phil Arter Sent: Saturday, February 15, 1997 9:27 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: HS412PP/HS411PP Terry Lorz wrote: > > I called Van's and asked if it would be okay to just bolt this HS412PP onto > the rear spar like the HS411PP is, or do I have to start over. Someone > there sent me four bolts, and said they didn't know. > My questions: > 1) Is this okay? > 2) Since everything else is riveted closed around the 412PP what happens if > the bolts come loose. They are self-locking nuts/bolts, will that be okay? > Sincerely, > > Your fellow lister ... > Terry Lorz Man, you ask hard questions. My recollection of AC43.13 is that it is acceptable practice to replace a rivet with a bolt or screw. If you're nervoous about not being able to inspect the nut later, another possibility is to use AN470-AD6 rivets. Put the factory head against the inside of the spar, and form the shop head against the steel bracket. There are many postings in the archives about pounding #6 rivets. If it were me though, I would start over. It may seem like a big inconvenience now, but later in retrospect you'll be glad you did. -- Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005 philip.arter(at)mci2000.com http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html (303)459-0435 home ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com>
Subject: Broken canopy
One method I've seen used more than once to repair and cover that area is to apply a strip of fiberglass "ala Dragonfly" over the entire rear bow and joint. If he can locate a local builder, they can probably order a molded strip for him. I imagine someone on the list has more info, but hope this helps. Les Williams RV-6AQBME #60027 RV-6A #20299 Complete 4/92, sold 10/95, 350 terrific hrs. ---------- From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of L. Coats Sent: Saturday, February 15, 1997 11:07 AM Subject: RV-List: Broken canopy RVator canopy repairers! I post this on behalf of one who is not on the list who has a tip up canopy that has just had a lower corner piece of the pexiglass approximately 6"X 1" break off when he was closing it. This has broken along side the pop rivets in the tilt frame. The archives talk about cracks that can be 'repaired' but what about sections? Can any of the superglues be used? Any suggestions are welcome and you can Email me direct at lcoats(at)wave.co.nz and I can post a summary of 'fixes' back to the list if there are any..... L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 168hr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Feb 15, 1997
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
This thread was touched upon recently but not elaborated on. What is the generel consensus of those of you flying regarding test flight. High speed taxi tests are not looked on with any favor, it seems. I tried them in the airplane I have 2000 hours in and it was rather difficult to navigate down the runway after the power had been pulled. The transition between full power and no power, even with gradual throttle movements does not seem to represent the attitudes of the aircraft during landing; and I believe this is what this exercise is suppose to make you familiar with. What about "land backs" where one takes off and then immediatly lands. This is recommended in the Flight Testing book (by Askue). These seemed to imulate landings better, as that is what you are doing. I think flight cards are a very good idea to delineate what will take place on each flight. Any thoughts?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 1997
Subject: Free at last!
Today, February 15, 1997 was a red letter day! I flew my RV-6A N929JC for the first time. The right wing was a bit heavy but I was able to trim this out with the manual aileron trim. The plane flew just like the factory plane, light and smooth on the controls and very responsive. I was amazed at how it wanted to climb and how fast it was. I was flying at 160 Knots before I could get the throttle back to cruise power. In the pattern, with the power at idle, I coasted the whole length of the runway before I was slow enough to put the flaps down. The flight was a real joy! Trust me guys and gals, all of the effort that goes into building an RV is worth every minute. Keep pounding those rivets; you'll be glad you did. Jim Cone RV-6A FLYING!!! jamescone(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
> >This thread was touched upon recently but not elaborated on. > >What is the generel consensus of those of you flying regarding test flight. >High speed taxi tests are not looked on with any favor, it seems. I tried >them in the airplane I have 2000 hours in and it was rather difficult to >navigate down the runway after the power had been pulled. The transition >between full power and no power, even with gradual throttle movements does >not seem to represent the attitudes of the aircraft during landing; and I >believe this is what this exercise is suppose to make you familiar with. > I'd like to touch on this topic. I built an RV-6 and had no TD time when it was done and ready to fly. I got some time in a Citabria but still felt that I wanted to 'practice' some more in my RV. I taxied at least 15 miles around Arlington Airport. I even 'taxied' at 80 mph on Runway 29 at Arlington; believe me, you have to apply lots of forward stick to stay on the ground at 80 mph. Now that I've got over 200 hours in my RV I can say that I didn't get any help from that kind of taxiing. Granted, it is a good idea to get used to the feel of the aircraft but DON'T try to taxi at take-off speeds. You're just asking for trouble. >What about "land backs" where one takes off and then immediatly lands. This >is recommended in the Flight Testing book (by Askue). These seemed to >imulate landings better, as that is what you are doing. > >I think flight cards are a very good idea to delineate what will take place >on each flight. > >Any thoughts?? > > > John Ammeter ammeterj(at)seanet.com 3233 NE 95th St Seattle WA, 98115 USA RV-6 N16JA First flight August 1990 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Free at last!
> >Today, February 15, 1997 was a red letter day! I flew my RV-6A N929JC for >the first time. The right wing was a bit heavy but I was able to trim this >out with the manual aileron trim. The plane flew just like the factory >plane, light and smooth on the controls and very responsive. I was amazed at >how it wanted to climb and how fast it was. I was flying at 160 Knots before >I could get the throttle back to cruise power. In the pattern, with the >power at idle, I coasted the whole length of the runway before I was slow >enough to put the flaps down. The flight was a real joy! Trust me guys and >gals, all of the effort that goes into building an RV is worth every minute. > Keep pounding those rivets; you'll be glad you did. > >Jim Cone RV-6A FLYING!!! >jamescone(at)aol.com > > Hey, Jim, can you tell us the difference between the SeaHawker and the RV? John Ammeter ammeterj(at)seanet.com 3233 NE 95th St Seattle WA, 98115 USA RV-6 N16JA First flight August 1990 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Free at last!
aol.com!JamesCone(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > Today, February 15, 1997 was a red letter day! I flew my RV-6A N929JC for > the first time. ***snip*** > > Jim Cone RV-6A FLYING!!! > jamescone(at)aol.com Jim Great big handshake and congratulations on flying your bird. Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First Flight July 14, 1989 :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us>
Subject: Re: Free at last!
Congratulations Jim, on your first flight. Another grin is now permantly in place. I had a chance to observe a first time flight this last week here in the Seattle area. After that flight it's like my friend has been to a special place that cannot be properly described with words........so he just walks around with this great big grin. Whats even better is that the grin has even gotten bigger after subsequent flights. Boy am I gonna keep after those pieces of airplane and make them into one.....! I wan't to go to that place you guys have been. Wonderful....! Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley)
Subject: Re: (no subject)
You wrote: >David Price wrote: >> >> I'm in the process of selling all my other toy's so I can afford to do this with out disrupting my bbusiness and wrestling with the price of a 160 lycoming mid-time for a RV-4.I have alot of tools ,no rivet tools yet but I am a cabinet maker with some tools that will handle alum.including milling machine and a large shop with a good spray booth.At this time I can handle bying rivet tools and the first kit parts but > >David >Your cabinet making skills will pay off big time in building an RV. >As for Bob, I know very little about how aircraft fight instruments >work, so when Bob speaks I listen ( besides he got 32 of my dollars >for his book and it's well worth it ). All is forgiven. >I think it's time for a big group hug. >Craig Hiers > David, I would suggest that you look at building an RV one step at a time. Come on over to the Frederick RV Forum in April and take a look around, NJ is only 2hrs by car. There will be several shop tours where you can see RV's in different stages of construction. I plan to have one of my RV8 wings with the new spars on display so you can see the difference in the new spar design vers the older spar. If you ever had any doubts about your ability to build an RV, the Forum will put them to rest. We will have a good metal shop with hands on for those that want to try so riveting. After the Forum, place your order for your tail kit and then order any tools you might need. You will have a complete list of just what tools you will need after the Forum. Build the tail and then make your decision if you want to continue, if you decide that you dont want to continue you can sell the tail kit and tools. Just think about it one kit at a time, that lycoming purchase is 18 months away. Good Luck Curtis Hinkley RV8 Dreaming about those SPARS chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
Subject: RV6A for sale
To all; I'm not going commercial here, just that a friend has put his RV 6A up for sale. It is a very nice a/c. I know this bird second only to my own. Limited information: 110 hrs TT, Lyc 0-320-E2D 160 hp 30 hrs out of major and has c/s crank if you want to go c/s. Has a Pacesetter on it now. Has gobs of stuff in it including Century 21 auto pilot. I have much more info but if anyone interested contact the seller, Joe Crutchfield at 972-298-4940 evenings. Also E-mail at: jc1(at)airmail.net I know it is well built and nicely finished. He has to have a 4 place due to family. John Darby RV6 N61764 flying Stephenville TX johnd@our-town.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob_Ungrin(at)on.infoshare.ca (Bob Ungrin)
Date: Feb 16, 1997
Subject: Re: Free at last!
To Jim Cone. Thanks for the encouraging words. Articles like this provide some welcome encouragement to those of us that are spending every spare moment in the garage/basement chained to a labour of love. Hope to be flying my RV-6A within a year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob_Ungrin(at)on.infoshare.ca (Bob Ungrin)
Date: Feb 16, 1997
Subject: Re: Free at last!
To Jim Cone. Thanks for the encouraging words. Articles like this provide some welcome encouragement to those of us that are spending every spare moment in the garage/basement chained to a labour of love. Hope to be flying my RV-6A within a year. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Free at last!
From: durbanski(at)juno.com (Daniel R Urbanski)
Date: Feb 16, 1997
Congratulation Jim, Have many happy and safe hours in your bird. Thank's for the words of encouragement and to persevere. Dan Urbanski RV6a working on left wing. Fort Worth TX writes: > >Today, February 15, 1997 was a red letter day! I flew my RV-6A N929JC >for >the first time. The right wing was a bit heavy but I was able to trim >this >out with the manual aileron trim. The plane flew just like the >factory >plane, light and smooth on the controls and very responsive. I was >amazed at >how it wanted to climb and how fast it was. I was flying at 160 Knots >before >I could get the throttle back to cruise power. In the pattern, with >the >power at idle, I coasted the whole length of the runway before I was >slow >enough to put the flaps down. The flight was a real joy! Trust me >guys and >gals, all of the effort that goes into building an RV is worth every >minute. > Keep pounding those rivets; you'll be glad you did. > >Jim Cone RV-6A FLYING!!! >jamescone(at)aol.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com>
Subject: Re: Man.Press.Ga.
> >Hi! >Someone recently posted an article on this list informing us on how an >manifold press. gauge can be used for power information. I wanted to save >it but I guess I deleted it instead. Could that person please repost it >or send it to me at lm4(at)juno.com >Thanks in advance, Larry Larry, watch for the Feb '97 RVator. The article I wrote has been embellished with the power information as was printed in the RVator and displayed here not long ago. Bill Bill RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV flying hours. These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or position of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Free at last!
Today, February 15, 1997 was a red letter day! I flew my RV-6A N929JC for the first time. Hey Jim: Alright Jim...congrats. I'm, well, we're all delighted to see another another RV fly! All that work has paid off. Sounds like your first flight was great! Remember though, you're supposed to blink a few times on downwind. Maybe I will put in a few more hours today. The heck with pruning & fertilizing the fruit trees, washing the car, mowing the lawn (yes, here in California it needs it already), fixing the pasture fence....the kids can do all that! Paul Osterman III RV6A Riveting wing skins Anderson, Ca PineRanch(at)msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: Ivoprop-electric
I gather from a signiture of yours that you've an Ivoprop with electrically controlled pitch. Please tell us more about it. performance, cost, durability in rain, etc. Thanks Bob Fritz ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Free at last!
aol.com!JamesCone(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > Today, February 15, 1997 was a red letter day! I flew my RV-6A N929JC for > the first time. > Jim Cone RV-6A FLYING!!! > jamescone(at)aol.com Hey Jim must be incredible!!!!I think anybody that reads this thread is smiling ear to ear and dreaming of what it must be like.It must be more intense than one's first solo, and you're there.I wonder if someone keeps all the first flight original-post RV-List letters together in a file.Congrads agian!!!!!!(trying to keep this short) David Price ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
>This thread was touched upon recently but not elaborated on. > >What is the generel consensus of those of you flying regarding test flight. >High speed taxi tests are not looked on with any favor, it seems. I tried >them in the airplane I have 2000 hours in and it was rather difficult to >navigate down the runway after the power had been pulled. The transition >between full power and no power, even with gradual throttle movements does >not seem to represent the attitudes of the aircraft during landing; and I >believe this is what this exercise is suppose to make you familiar with. > >What about "land backs" where one takes off and then immediatly lands. This >is recommended in the Flight Testing book (by Askue). These seemed to >imulate landings better, as that is what you are doing. The whole idea of high speed taxi tests and land backs dates back to the early days of flight testing. Back then, you were never really sure if the new design would actually fly, or whether there would be adequate control authority at low speed. It was thought a good idea to try out the controls during high speed taxi tests to make sure that the aircraft responded in a satisfactory manner to the flight controls. These tests were done at higher and higher speeds and often the aircraft would become airborne before the power was cut. In those days, the typical airfield was a large grass field with no defined runways. You would take-off and land in what ever direction was into wind. You didn't have to worry about going off the side of the runway. Today, with most professionally designed, conventional aircraft, we can be quite confident that the aircraft will fly, and that there will be enough control authority at low speeds to safely take-off and land in the conditions that should be present for a first flight (very light, steady winds). The take-off and landing phases are the most difficult parts of the flight, and most accidents occur there. The transition from full power take off to idle power landing can be a difficult one in an aircraft that is unfamiliar. Many people end up going off the side of the runway doing high speed taxi tests and land backs. My advice is to do no more than moderate speed taxi tests. Don't go anywhere near take-off speed unless you and the aircraft are completely prepared for flight. The first time you go airborne should be a true take-off. >I think flight cards are a very good idea to delineate what will take place >on each flight. > Agree. You should have a very well thought out plan for every test flight. Flight test cards are the best way to make sure that you remember what the plan is. The test card should be very clear, should include all necessary details on test conditions, and should include any safety reminders. It should also have a place to record the data. Kevin Horton hopeful RV-8 builder (lurking and gather info, tools, etc) khorton(at)cyberus.ca Engineering Test Pilot Transport Canada Ottawa, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Jim Lewman <lewman(at)wt.net>
Subject: RV4 parts For Sale
Due to circumstances, I have had to put my RV4 parts up for sale. I have a 1992 tail kit about 60% completed, a 1992 wing kit not started, and updated plans and manual. I am asking $ 3,500.00 for all. Thanks, Jim Lewman lewman(at)wt.net 281-859-7624 Houston, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com>
Subject: Bob Japundza
Bob Japundza please e-mail me with the address you want messages sent to. Frank Smidler smidler@dcwi ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
> > >>Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA(cant believe I read the >>whole thing!!!!!!!!!!) >>Dave Price >>PP-ASEL >> > >Hey Dave, I can't believe you reposted the whole thing! >Why? I know it was good, but dang, I was reading your reply to see if you >had something to add. You didn't. Hey guys, I can't believe you replied to the List! A reminder to all: *think* before replying to the List; is my reply of general interest to all, or aimed directly at the original poster? If it's aimed at one individual, reply just to him. Frank. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- frankv(at)pec.co.nzZ (without the anti-email-spam Z, of course) http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ Frank van der Hulst, Software Engineer, Cardax, PEC(NZ) Ltd, Marton "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass; A good bookshop is just a genteel Black Hole that knows how to read". Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!" -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N595CM(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 16, 1997
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
When I did my firewall foreward I started with the larger stuff first. Like scatt hoses oil coolers and hoses and worked my way down to the smaller stuff, like wires etc. My reasoning was that it is easier to move something small and find a alternate place for it than something larger. You must first have your baffling 100% complete or you will have to redo something. Be sure to have your oil pressure fitting on the case before final installation. I made several trips out to the airport and looked at airplanes with their cowlings off to get ideas. Chris May RV-4 N595CM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: A primer on ATTITUDES . . .
Frank van der Hulst wrote: > > > > > > > >>Hey Bob take it to some one who cares like NASA(cant believe I read the > >>whole thing!!!!!!!!!!) > >>Dave Price > >>PP-ASEL > >> > > > >Hey Dave, I can't believe you reposted the whole thing! > >Why? I know it was good, but dang, I was reading your reply to see if you > >had something to add. You didn't. > > Hey guys, > I can't believe you replied to the List! > > A reminder to all: *think* before replying to the List; is my reply of > general interest to all, or aimed directly at the original poster? If it's > aimed at one individual, reply just to him. > > Frank. > -- > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > frankv(at)pec.co.nzZ (without the anti-email-spam Z, of course) > http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ > Frank van der Hulst, Software Engineer, Cardax, PEC(NZ) Ltd, Marton > "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass; A good bookshop is just a genteel > Black Hole that knows how to read". Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!" > -------------------------------------------------------------------- Hay Frank Why didn't you just replay to the people that responded? Also your signature takes up seven lines of nothing about RV's. Not flameing just an observation. Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: Free at last!
>I think anybody that reads this thread is >smiling ear to ear and dreaming of what it must be like. It's very satisfying each time one of us listers' RVs flies for the first time. I'm sure that, like me, everyone here has followed Jim's trials, tribulations, and progress. We *all* follow each other's progress. The reason Jim's right wing was heavy is because the entire rv-list was right there with him, in the right seat, cheering him on. Good going, Jim. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
mikel(at)dimensional.com wrote: >What is the generel consensus of those of you flying regarding test flight. I too have read Vaughan Askue's book, and have reservations about extensive high-speed taxi tests. 1. The new pre-drilled gear legs pretty well rule out any problems caused by poor gear alignment. 2. It seems as though the RV-series does not require extensive high-speed taxi tests. You don't hear about a lot of problems discovered during high-speed taxi tests. 3. The RV gets airborne at very low speeds and power settings. This makes high-soeed taxi tests somewhat more hazardous (Becoming airborne unexpectedly) than for other designs. One of the purposes of high-speed taxi tests is to let you get the feel of the airplane. In my case I not only plan to spend some time with MIke Sieger, a good friend as (very) graciously offered to let me spend some time in his RV-6 (with him in the right seat). With that, I plan to do a *small* number of high-speed taxis, then go for it. Also keep in mind that I've been flying nothing but a Champ and a C120 for the past year. MY RV-6 will probably fly late this year, and I'll probably have 50-60 hours of tailwheel time by then. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 Installing the systems ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Be still, my heart!
All: Well, coming in from the garage today I was pumped, and that was BEFORE I read Jim Cone's announcement! For the first time, my RV-6 is up on its gear with the empennage installed. Boy, this thing really looks like an airplane now! It really was exhilarating today standing back and looking at the product of the last two year's labor. (It was also funny watching all the rubberneckers drive by.) To those reading this that may be 'on the fence', the exhilaration is almost indescribable. Almost all the engine parts are here, the Hartzel CS prop is in the corner, and the avionics and instruments are arriving as fast as my wallet will allow. It won't be long now. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 Installing the Systems ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Refused/appealed Medical
Hi all, I'm hoping someone out there can advise me as to my next step regarding appealing a failed medical. 1. I applied for the class three physical and upon disclosing my daily use of prescribed medications the Medical Examiner stated that he could not issue the student pilot certificate. He then suggested I get a letter from my regular physician describing the condition and consequences. 2. I supplied that letter to the ME who sent the request into the FAA. 3. The FAA rejected the physical/letter stating that I had 30 days to appeal. 4. I immediatly sent a registered/return reciept request asking for all necessary paperwork and instructions and quoting both doctors that "the pathology does not warrant rejection." 5. I received the return receipt indicating the FAA got my request for appeal on 1/10/97, well within the 30 days. 6. That's been over 5 weeks and I've heard absolutely nothing. So here's my question: Can someone give me the name of a warm body at the FAA that might be able to kick this thing in the butt? I've been out with friends in two RV-4's, a Cessna 310, a T-34 Mentor, a Duchess, two A-36 Bonanza's, and a couple of other nice planes and have offers of just-pay-the-gas lessons! I gotta get this thing moving!!!!!!!! Thanks mucho, Bob Fritz RV-6 workshop, financing and everything else in place.... EXCEPT for the FAA. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: starter ring gear
Date: Feb 17, 1997
I need to install a starter ring gear on to the aluminum hub. (O-320) I assume this is a heat shrink fit type arrangement. Do I need to heat the ring and freeze the hub or can it be done simply with heat? There appears to be no points to align, right? How come TDC #1 mark on the forward side of the hub and the TDC mark on the aft side are maybe 60-70 degrees apart? Kevin "I'll have more dumb questions tomorrow" N3773 6A (or can I simply say 'A'?) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: ron calhoun <roncal@e-tex.com>
Subject: Re: Refused/appealed Medical
>I'm hoping someone out there can advise me as to my next step regarding >appealing a failed medical. Bob, here is what worked for me. My physical was rejected after the FAA requested and I sent additional medical records. I called AOPA and they told me what questions to ask of the FAA. In about four weeks they responded that I could use my medical until next review if nothing changed. I really appreciated AOPA. The price was right, too, free. Ron Calhoun Palestine, Tx RV-4 Installing engine, instruments ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: ron calhoun <roncal@e-tex.com>
Subject: Re: Refused/appealed Medical
>I'm hoping someone out there can advise me as to my next step regarding >appealing a failed medical. Bob, here is what worked for me. My physical was rejected after the FAA requested and I sent additional medical records. I called AOPA and they told me what questions to ask of the FAA. In about four weeks they responded that I could use my medical until next review if nothing changed. I really appreciated AOPA. The price was right, too, free. Ron Calhoun Palestine, Tx RV-4 Installing engine, instruments ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: OV protection
>The OV unit that I have in my plane is no longer available >at ACS. He has already purchased his regulator, so is >hesitant on buying the >regulator from B&C with OV protection. > The question is how may of you are using OV and what >good/bad experiences >have you had with your choice. >Todd N92TM Flying (I plan to be at Sun-N-Fun) See Sport Aviation for Dec 93, page 68. There's an article I wrote describing the differences/benefits of "crowbar" ov protection vis-a-vis relays. If you don't have access to that issue, I can e-mail some stuff sans figures. (We're working on getting all past articles up on our website . .. soon we hope). >>I am pretty sure that Bob Nuckols sells what is called a'crow >>bar' over voltage cut out. I had expected a crow bar encased >>in a box with a glass labeled 'break glass, use crow bar to >>smash any over volts in cockpit'. But no, it looks like a >>package of about 10 or 15 stamps glued together in a stack >> with a couple of wires coming out of then. Started out with old fashion crowbars but the last increase in postage triggered a re-design :-) >>About $35 if bought assembled, don't remember the kit price. We've not sucessfully marketed this as a kit since it takes a good, current limited bench supply and digital voltmeter with .01 resolution to set the critters up. VERY few builders had access to these tools so we only offer assembed and calibrated at this time. HOWEVER . . . drop me an SASE with "CROWBAR OV" marked on the back and I'll send you the stuff that describes parts, schematic and adjustment procedures. >>I've had one for some time, and it is as effective as the >>elephant protector I have in the a/c, haven't had any elephants >>nor over voltage problems. Bob, can you jump in here >>with the details? OV protection is indeed one of those things that most EVERYONE agrees they should have (along with an avionics master switch). It is TRUE that regulator reliability has improved by an order of magnitude over the past 20 years but failures rates are NOT zero. We've preached the gospel according to Murphy for years . . . the best thing to do is ASSUME that the regulator is going to fail (See Sport Aviation June 94) and plan for an alternative thats more paletable than overhauling a few killobucks worth of radios, etc. >>>I am flying without OV protection. >>>I guess thats kind of like having unsafe sex. Or Russian Roulette . . . >he RV-4 that I built in 1991 had a 60 amp Nippon >Denso alternator with an internal voltage regulator. >I was using no overvoltage protection. It's very difficult if not impractical to put ov protection on an alternator with built in regulator. Won't go into the gory details here but suffice it to say this is why B&C does regulectomy on BRAND NEW Nippon Dienso machines. >On the return trip from Sun-N-Fun 1992, the voltage regulator >died. My com radio was history. It was a TKM MX-11. >I sent it back to the factory and they fixed it for no >charge with no questions asked. I have allready purchased >the "over voltage module" that Bob Nuckolls sell to go in >the RV-8 that I am now building. Bless you my son, may your light bulbs live long and prosper! >I expect you don't hear about the ones that have been saved by OV protection. >You only hear about the ones that did not have it and had their avionics fried. >I know of one Cessna that this happend to and it fried all the avionics. That's always been a problem in this business of building airplans, people are loath to post their mistakes in front of God and everybody, only their successes . . . so we're often found repeating the same mistakes over again. I've encouraged readers (and list-rats) to come forth with the things that work and the things that don't work . . . it's all GOOD stuff that adds to the collective knowlege base. However, when it comes to horror stories, there's little reluctance to pass it on: "I heard about a guy on our airport who . . . " We need to recognize "data" which is different from "stories". I'm yet to discover where this works any better than on the list servers. Regards, Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= 72770.552(at)compuserve.com http:\\www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: RV and Sea Hawker Compared
John Ammeter asked me to compare my RV to my Sea Hawker. There is no comparison!!! The only thing that they have in common as far as flying characteristics goes is that they both fly. The Sea Hawker is small, very noisy, and slow. The RV is quiet, comfortable, very fast, incredibly responsive. In fairness to the Sea Hawker, both airplanes can land on the water, but the RV can only do it once, while the Sea Hawker can land and then take off again. I wouldn't trade all the Sea Hawkers in the world for my RV. It is incredible!!! Jim Cone, RV-6A flying!!! jamescone(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
When you finish your RV and have had it inspected, you can be sure that it is going to fly. It may need a bit of tweaking, but it will fly. An RV accelerates so fast that if you apply full power, you will be airborne in just a few seconds. A fast taxi will turn into a flight much faster than you think. Taxi around at a fast walking pace to get the feel of the plane and then just go for it and take off. Be ready with the right rudder on takeoff and concentrate on keeping the plane wings level right after liftoff. After that, it is easy. If you haven't had a ride in an RV before your first flight, on landing, a good attitude is to hold the top of the spinner on the horizon. On an earlier posting, I suggested using the KISS principle and just putting the prop control to full rpm. I guess that I took too much for granted, judging from the replies. I assumed that those with a constant speed prop would know that you should pull the power back before going to flat pitch and that it should be done smoothly. I stand by my original suggestion, to put the prop to full rpm as you enter the landing pattern and then just use the throttle for the rest of the flight. I still have my fireproof suit on. Jim Cone, RV-6A flying! jamescone(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Shawn Falzarano <falzsf(at)terminal.autobahn.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Free at last!
On Sun, 16 Feb 1997, David Price wrote: > > aol.com!JamesCone(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > > > > Today, February 15, 1997 was a red letter day! I flew my RV-6A N929JC for > > the first time. > > Jim Cone RV-6A FLYING!!! > > jamescone(at)aol.com > > > Hey Jim must be incredible!!!!I think anybody that reads this thread is > smiling ear to ear and dreaming of what it must be like.It must be more > intense than one's first solo, and you're there.I wonder if someone > keeps all the first flight original-post RV-List letters together in a > file.Congrads agian!!!!!!(trying to keep this short) > > David Price > You can say that again. I can't wait to fly an rv-4/6/8 even if it ain't mine. Although if it were the one I built the grin would be even larger!!!! Shawn Falazarano saving for rv-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
Kevin, There are no dumb questions, at least not very often. You might be able to remove the old ring by using a drift and hammer and beating it off. This way it may be salvaged for later use. If its trash any way you can take a hacksaw and put a few relief cuts between the gears ( carefull not to get the hub), and it will easily tap off with a hammer. Installing the new one is a piece of cake! Put your hub in the freezer ( thats right the one in your kitchen) for a half hour or so. Next take a simple hardware store $4.99 propane torch,set the new ring in a vice and run the flame in circles around the ring. When you spit on the ring and it sizles your ready! Have someone bring in your hub from the kitchen and set it on the bench, take a pair of pliers grab the ring and drop it into place on the hub. Some slight tapping may be required but generally they just fall into place. The marks you see on the back of the hub are timming marks you align with the split in your crankcase on the top side. The marks on the front of the hub are also timming marks but the alignment is with a small hole located on your starter housing. Once the baffling and everything else is installed on the engine most people find it easier to use the starter reference for timming, however the rear marks are the prefered method. This should get you off and running in the right dirrection. Ryan Bendure RV4131RB(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: RV-4 parts for sale
Could the guy who had the wings and tail for sale E mail me with the info? My wife accidentally deleted the Item. Thanks, Ryan Bendure RV4131RB(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
From: ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK)
Date: Feb 16, 1997
Craig, Two items to add: 1) install the drain fitting on the fuel pump before mounting the engine, 2) check the back of the firewall when planning things on the front. Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto ron.taborek(at)flight642.com --- { Presentation of the preceding message was made possible by Flight 642 } { BBS. Canada's Aviation and Simulation connection. (905)642-2993 } { WEB Page: http://www.flight642.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 1997
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: OV protection
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > **snip** > It's very difficult if not impractical to put ov > protection on an alternator with built in regulator. > Won't go into the gory details here but suffice it > to say this is why B&C does regulectomy on BRAND > NEW Nippon Dienso machines. > > Bob . . . > AeroElectric Connection > > //// > (o o) > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= > | | > | Go ahead, make my day . . . . | > | Show me where I'm wrong. | > ================================= > 72770.552(at)compuserve.com > http:\\www.aeroelectric.com OK Bob It worked, now you have scared me,I have been flying my RV-6 for almost eight years and over 800 hrs. with a $45.00 junk yard Chevy Sprint Nippon Dienso with no problems but I certainly don't want to fry all the goodies in the panel what would you suggest I do to protect my radios using the Nippon with A built in voltage regulator? I think you have touched on this before but I can't find the info. Thanks Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14,1989:-) jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
RON TABOREK wrote: > > > Craig, > Two items to add: > 1) install the drain fitting on the fuel pump before mounting > the engine, > 2) check the back of the firewall when planning things on the > front. > > Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto ron.taborek(at)flight642.com > > --- > { Presentation of the preceding message was made possible by Flight 642 } > { BBS. Canada's Aviation and Simulation connection. (905)642-2993 } > { WEB Page: http://www.flight642.com Ron I read in the RV catalog about a fuel pump with a special fitting for the vent line. I gather there is a fitment problem with the footwell on the RV-4. Do I need to purchase this pump or can the one on the motor be modified. I've got to get this a figured out real soon. Craig Hiers RV-4 N143CH Tallahassee,FL. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
>I stand by my original suggestion, to put >the prop to full rpm as you enter the landing pattern and then just use the >throttle for the rest of the flight. > Jim Cone, If memory serves me right, I think the Air Force position was in agreement with you. As a 'stud' back in 51, the pre landing check was 'GUMP', gas, undercarriage, mixture, and prop. Again, if memory is right, gas was to the fullest tank, U and M I will leave to imagination, and P was prop to the firewall, max rpm. The reasons taught us was that the engine develops max hp at max rpm, the flat prop permitted most rapid engine acceleration to max hp in case needed. This was taught both in T-6s and P-51s. Now I'm not saying that because the AF taught this that it was right, but it was a very popular thing to do at the time. And since Burt Strandburg and Hank Lacey (my instructors) said do it, I wasn't about to question them and put myself in a position to receive the wrath of their disapproval. Ah yes, mine was but to do or die, not to reason why. John Darby RV6 N61764 flying Stephenville TX johnd@our-town.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com>
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
On Feb 17, 7:54am, John Darby wrote: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Test taxi, flights, etc > > >I stand by my original suggestion, to put > >the prop to full rpm as you enter the landing pattern and then just use the > >throttle for the rest of the flight. > > > Jim Cone, >s. > Now I'm not saying that because the AF taught this that it was right, but > it was a very popular thing to do at the time. And since Burt Strandburg > and Hank Lacey (my instructors) said do it, I wasn't about to question them > and put myself in a position to receive the wrath of their disapproval. Ah > yes, mine was but to do or die, not to reason why. > John Darby RV6 N61764 flying > Stephenville TX > johnd@our-town.com >-- End of excerpt from John Darby The only time I DO NOT push the props full forward on final are: 1) If you are going way to fast and in doing so will overspeed the engine 2) If I am flying anything with Lyc. geared engines - Props forward will eat the gears faster than you can possible believe. This equates to BIG BUCKS.. Otherwise GUMP.. -- Jeffrey S. Davis Senior Research Engineer Advance Vehicle Technology Ford Motor Company Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: High-Speed taxi tests
More food for thought about conducting high-speed taxi tests: I was reading the latest EAA Flight Advisor Newsletter while waiting for my email to download. I noticed that the "Accident Reports" section contained no less than three accidents that occured during high-speed taxi tests. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
Date: Feb 17, 1997
If you don't get the ring gear indexed in the correct position onto the hub, then the timming marks will be off. I know of one plane that had this problem, the timing was set but it would never start hot. After lots of work, it was found that the timing was off because someone had installed the ring gear onto the hub improperly. Does the ring gear have some detent to index it to the hub? Herman > > Kevin, > Installing the new one is a piece of cake! Put your hub in the freezer ( > thats right the one in your kitchen) for a half hour or so. Next take a > simple hardware store $4.99 propane torch,set the new ring in a vice and run > the flame in circles around the ring. When you spit on the ring and it sizles > your ready! Have someone bring in your hub from the kitchen and set it on > the bench, take a pair of pliers grab the ring and drop it into place on the > hub. Some slight tapping may be required but generally they just fall into > place. > The marks you see on the back of the hub are timming marks you align with > the split in your crankcase on the top side. > The marks on the front of the hub are also timming marks but the alignment > is with a small hole located on your starter housing. Once the baffling and > everything else is installed on the engine most people find it easier to use > the starter reference for timming, however the rear marks are the prefered > method. > This should get you off and running in the right dirrection. > Ryan Bendure RV4131RB(at)aol.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PhilipR920(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: First Flight
Jim- Congratulations on the flight. Did you get to try the rudder trim system. If so, how did it work. I'm currently working on the system for my 6A. Phil Rogerson 6AQ-50057 N936PR reserved Fernandina Beach, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com>
Subject: rudder pedal reinforcements
Kevin, If you have the overhead mounted ones, which it sounds like you do, I haven't heard of a problem. On the older style floor mounted pedals, gussets of 4130 steel were welded on both sides of the rudder control tube and the Wd-606A rudder cable attach arm. This mandatory change notice was published in the Sep '90 RVator, so later shipments had the gussets already added. There were numerous builders who switched to the overhead style when they became available so if you want some newer floor mounted ones with the gussets already included, you might ask around. I think this was discussed here not long ago and more info should be in the archives. Les Williams RV-6AQB #60027 Tacoma, WA ---------- From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of kevin lane Sent: Sunday, February 16, 1997 8:46 PM Subject: RV-List: rudder pedal reinforcements Don Wentz suggested that I have my rudder pedals gusseted since there have been some reports of breakage. It would not be too difficult at this point except they are painted. I was wondering if a cherry rivets solution would be feasible rather than having things welded. It seems to me that only the right pedal is being used as a torque tube (when PIC sits left seat) since the left cable is attached directly to the pedal. Is this where they have been failing? The upper mounting horns for the brake cylinders would limit the gusset size on the front of the pedal at least. Too bad the pedal tubes didn't pass thru the main horizontal tube to provide canterleverage independent of the welds. If I decide to have them welded, how important is it to use 4130 steel? Kevin N3773(at)worldnet.att.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
In message <v03020900af2cf246e9e8@[207.134.177.88]>, Kevin & Theresa Horton writes > > >>This thread was touched upon recently but not elaborated on. >> >>What is the generel consensus of those of you flying regarding test flight. >>High speed taxi tests are not looked on with any favor, it seems. >Kevin Horton >hopeful RV-8 builder (lurking and gather info, tools, etc) >khorton(at)cyberus.ca >Engineering Test Pilot >Transport Canada >Ottawa, Canada > After rebuilding a Luscombe a few years ago I did some high speed taxi test and very nearly had to rebuild it again. I tried to analyse what went wrong, and as I recall the aircraft went a bit wild as I closed the throttle. Could be gyro effect as I closed it rather rapidly or more to the point my mind was still back in the hanger and not on the runway. A fool learns by his mistakes. A wise man learns by other peoples mistakes. The only time I high speed taxi now is to take off or land. Happy flying and safe taxiing. RV8 0n order. -- Rob Hatwell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Wiring
Does anyone know how many wires are required to power and control the Whelan POS/NAV/STROBE combination lighting? I'd like to run the wiring while I have the wing open, but don't own the lights yet. Thanks, Ed Cole emcole(at)concentric.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Man.Press.Ga.
In message , Bill Benedict @matronics.com> writes > >Larry, watch for the Feb '97 RVator. Bill Any chance of getting it before June. Waiting on RV8 kit 1st in UK. >Bill >RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV >flying hours. >These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or >position of my employer. > -- Rob Hatwell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Phil Arter <arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu>
Subject: Snap Bushings in Avgas
Does anyone know how resistant those hard nylon "snap bushings" are to soaking indefinately in avgas (or mogas). I just noticed they are used inside the fuel tanks where the vent lines pass through the ribs. Are you there Gene Francis? --- Phil Arter HIRDLS Project Engineer arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu (303)497-8069 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring
Date: Feb 17, 1997
I am trying to recall what I did. If you have the single power supply, there is a single cable that comes with the strobe kit. This is a shielded cable and it has the wires needed inside (I think it is just two wires inside for a power and the return). Ground the shield at one end to limit EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference). This wire is quite thick, about 1/4 inch or so in diameter. There will be 4 ports on the power supply. If you just use wing strobes, you pick 2 of the ports (determined by alternate or synchrodized flash) and just run one cable from each port to each wing tip strobe. They give you the connectors to attach to the end after you pull the cable thru the wing. I think the nav light wire must be run seperate and you can just ground it at the tip wing rib. I have not looked at the remote power supplies but those would just take 12v out to the power supply which would probably mount on the tip rib and use the wing for ground return. Herman > > Does anyone know how many wires are required to power and control the > Whelan POS/NAV/STROBE combination lighting? I'd like to run the wiring > while I have the wing open, but don't own the lights yet. > Thanks, > Ed Cole > emcole(at)concentric.net > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: OV protection
>Bob It worked, now you have scared me,I have been >flying my RV-6 for almost eight years and over >800 hrs. with a $45.00 junk yard Chevy Sprint >Nippon Dienso with no problems but I certainly >don't want to fry all the goodies in the panel >what would you suggest I do to protect my radios >using the Nippon with A built in voltage regulator? >I think you have touched on this before but I can't find >the info. Thanks Jerry, Didn't mean to scare you . . . in support of your own experience, I can point to millions of Nipon Dienso machines that go to the junk yards still working after the rest of the car is scrapped. They are indeed very reliable machines . . . but what does that mean? There are thousands of parts on single engine airplanes that have been shook, baked, spec'd, conformity controlled, pma'd, stc'd, tso'd, etc. ad nauseum. Does that mean the part will NEVER break? Of course not . . . lots of these parts break every day. What's more, because it took so much thrashing about to get them to market, replacing the critters with exact duplicates is expensive. Redesigning a modern component in is unthinkable. Nuckolls' first law of airplane systems design sez: "Things break" The second: "Systems shall be designed such that when things do break, no immediate hazard is created." The third: "Things necessary for comfortable termination of flight require backup." The forth: "Upgrading the quality, reliability, longevity, or capability of a part shall be because you're tired of replacing it, not because it damned near got you killed." If these tenants are observed, then it makes no difference where you buy your parts or how much money you spend on them. You're free to try any new part with the goal of seeing how long it will last or how well it will perform. It DOES require that you make sure that every failure mode is deduced and it's consequences evaluated. In the case of your alternator's built in regulator, I cannot tell you that the critter will never fail . . . indeed, failure tolerant design philosophy dictates that I assume that it will fail. Right now, the best way we know for covering ourselves is to add backup protection (crowbar ov module or ov relay) to effect timely shutdown and warning of the failure in a manner that meets rule #2. Then we make sure that rule #3 gets us home so we can repair the bugger. There are MANY airplanes out there flying with modern, very reliable, alternators with built-in regulators. MOST of them will go the lifetime of the airplane with no unhappy events. A FEW will experience gross failure that may smoke other goodies in the airplane but proabably won't get anyone hurt or an airplane bent . . . but it's SO EASY to avoid. B&C removes the regulators and brings brush leads to the outside so that ALL power necessary to excite the field comes through a single, ov protected path. Adequate external regulators are available for $10-$30. An ov module is another $35 or build it yourself for about $15. Until we find a neater way to do it, this is my best recommendation. Regards, Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo========== | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= 72770.552(at)compuserve.com http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring
Ed, I would suggest buying the lighting system that you wish to install.=20 The Whelen strobe system I purchased for my Stearman came with the wire for the strobes. It is NOT regular aircraft wire. Because of the high voltage that powers the strobes, the wire was sheilded. In addition, it would help to be able to put your plugs and access loops in place ahead of time. Of course this is just the opinion of 1 individual and not necessarily the opinion of this station. ;-) Take care, Glenn Gordon flyers@anet-chi.com --=20 MZ=90 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
Subject: Adj. Rudder Pedals
Hi, I just sold my Stearman and I am all ready to write a check to Vans for an RV-6 kit. One little problem..... I am 6'0" and my wife is 5'0". She also flys and would like to be able to reach the rudder pedals. I have contacted Vans regarding how other people have dealt with this problem. They couldn't offer any advice except to find another builder who has done it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Our e-mail address is flyers@anet-chi.com Thank you, Glenn & Judi Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: "AUSTIN TINCKLER" <TANFORAN(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-4 parts for sale
---------- From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 16, 1997 11:37 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-4 parts for sale Could the guy who had the wings and tail for sale E mail me with the info? My wife accidentally deleted the Item. Thanks, Ryan Bendure RV4131RB(at)aol.com Are you sure that was accidental ??? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
From: ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK)
Date: Feb 17, 1997
You can use likely use the existing fuel pump, but you must put the fuel pump drain fitting in before the engine is mounted. The problem arises because there is only one half inch clearance between the fuel pump and the firewall step. You can make your own fitting very simply using a 1/8 pipe thread fitting, or Van's sells a simple fitting for $6.75 (Part Number OVERFLOW PLUG 1/8). By the way, did you get my first message? I seem to be having some problems with messages from the list. Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto ron.taborek(at)flight642.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Wiring
> Does anyone know how many wires are required to power and control the > Whelan POS/NAV/STROBE combination lighting? I'd like to run the wiring > while I have the wing open, but don't own the lights yet. The lights come with their own cable. They have connectors that you will crimp on the ends after the wire is run. I'd either run some sort of conduit or drill holes and put bushings in the ribs (the SB-437s used for the fuel tank vent lines would work fine) and fish the wire through after you get the lights. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Wiring
> Does anyone know how many wires are required to power and control the > Whelan POS/NAV/STROBE combination lighting? I'd like to run the wiring > while I have the wing open, but don't own the lights yet. I bought the Whelan lights with the power supply at each wing tip. I ran conduit so I can easily add more wires later if required. I've not yet strung the wires, but here's what I believe is required: - 1 wire for fwd and tail lights (1.9 + 1.8 amps) - 1 wire for power supply for strobe (2.9 amps) - 1 wire to synchronize left and right strobes As far as I know, that's it. --------------------- Tim Lewis RV-6AQ #60023 timrv6a(at)earthlink.net ----------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring
Edward Cole wrote: > > > Does anyone know how many wires are required to power and control the > Whelan POS/NAV/STROBE combination lighting? I'd like to run the wiring > while I have the wing open, but don't own the lights yet. > Thanks, > Ed Cole > emcole(at)concentric.net Ed, there is one cable, about 1/4" thick, which is supplied with the lighting kit or you can buy it seperately ahead of time like I did. It bundles the wires for the lighting and has the connectors at the strobe head end preattached, you cut to length and add the connectors for the control/powersupply end. I forget the part number, but Van's or your Whelan supplier can help you with it. Have fun. PatK - RV-6A - Working on the flap. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PHFD400(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: RV6(A) Tail kit for sale
Have tail kit for sale. HS, VS and rudder completed. Can deliver to Sun & Fun, or crate and ship. Jim Olson Tarpon Springs, FL e-mail at: phfd400(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring
Herman Dierks wrote: > > > > > They give you the connectors to attach to the end after you pull the > cable thru the wing. > >Very intresting thread,I dont have set of plans and always trying to visualize what this stuff looks like.Do the wires that go through ribs and thing's get a little brackets with foam padding like I've seen somewhere on another airplane?????. David Price ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: lightweight filler
I just started using Poly Fiber's "Superlight Epoxy Filler", and it is great stuff. I don't think I'll ever use microballoons again. It's VERY light (You'd swear the cans are empty), sets up overnight, and sands easily. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Adj. Rudder Pedals
> > >I am 6'0" and my wife is 5'0". She also flys and would like to be able >to reach the rudder pedals. I have contacted Vans regarding how other >people have dealt with this problem. They couldn't offer any advice >except to find another builder who has done it. > I'm almost 6' but have short legs; my inseam is 29". I have the bottom of the seat back in the middle position and the top in the back position. A friend of mine is much shorter, about 5'7" with short legs. He is able to reach the rudder pedals as they are now. I venture to guess that your wife would be able to reach the pedals with the seat back bottom all the way forward and the top of the seat back also all the way forward. If that doesn't work then a fanny bumper cushion should do the trick. John Ammeter ammeterj(at)seanet.com 3233 NE 95th St Seattle WA, 98115 USA RV-6 N16JA First flight August 1990 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
Herman , You couldnt be more wrong! There is no index for installing the ring gear, the index'es are on the hub. Ryan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
Date: Feb 18, 1997
> > If you don't get the ring gear indexed in the correct position onto > the hub, then the timming marks will be off. > I know of one plane that had this problem, the timing was set but it > would never start hot. After lots of work, it was found that the > timing was off because someone had installed the ring gear onto the > hub improperly. > > Does the ring gear have some detent to index it to the hub? mine(D2J) has no index marks or ticks (Brian's E2B does). The ring gear teeth on one side are cut into the side wall a bit, I assume to aid engagement of the starter gear. You lost me on how the starter ring gear affects timing, it doesn't drive anything and it's position appears to be independent of the timing marks on the hub. I assume the starter gear can engage anywhere in the 2 1/2 degrees between teeth. I know on the T-craft the prop always stops at the same place, 1 o'clock. I assume Lycomings do also. Does this mean that the starter is always engaging at the same teeth location? kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: James Nolin <rtnolin(at)alaweb.com>
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > This thread was touched upon recently but not elaborated on. > > What is the generel consensus of those of you flying regarding test flight. I have a few thoughts on this subject Mike. I'll try to keep it precise. What follows is a few pointers with comments that relate to your questions. 1. Detailed planning. Plan the entire test program (write it out) before you begin. Make a schedule. Don't be worried about staying on it, but follow it as events allow. Try to predict things that may not go as planned. When you identify those things, have contigencies in place. structured. Data cards are required equipment. Make them prior to each flight. Include more data points than you will probably be able to complete. If you don't finish them all, it's no big deal. Just slide them to the next flight. 2. Ask yourself the benefit you'll get from the test and mentally plot it versus the risk involved. speed taxi tests. These test give you feel for the airplane and help you determine controllability. My advice is to get the "feel" from an RV that is already flying if possible and perform low to moderate speed taxiing in your airplane as a check. From the comments I've read, Van has already given you exceptional controllability. As for takeoffs/landbacks, its your choice. It's a good step in the crawl, walk, run process, but be cautious. Determine the runway length and width you think you'll need, and double it (at least). Then go looking for the facilities. Remember the contingencies I mentioned in #1 (you could break and airplane very easily doing this). 3. The science of flight test is to determine the particular characteristics (envelope, limitations, peculiarities, etc.) of an aircraft. The art of flight test is to proceed from the known to the unknown without killing yourself. with it. It's really not that overwhelming for most pilots to pick up and there's plenty of written material available. As to the art of flight test, practice it on a daily basis. These comments are strictly my own opinion. Use them as you see fit. Become good friends with your local EAA Flight Advisor and feel free to Email me off-list if you want a list of references or you just want to talk more about flight tests or RVs. Randy Nolin Flight Test Engineer US Army EAA #514770 RV-3 (tools & preview plans; patiently awaiting re-release of kits) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Subject: Re: First Flight
Phil Rogerson asked about my rudder trim system and I'll respond here. The rudder trim system that I designed does work. Just a bit of trim and the plane flies straight as an arrow. I got the aileron trailing edge squeezed down on the light wing and I just lucked out because I got it right on the first try. It now flies straight and level, hands off, with no aileron trim. Second flight today was slow flight and stalls. Stall speed clean was 55 knots power off and 46 knots power on with 45 degrees of nose up!!! Both were very gentle and recovery instantaneous with a release of back pressure on the stick. Slow flight at 60 knots was steady as a rock even in 30 degree bank turns. On one upwind leg I had less than 30 knots ground speed. It was quite a different sensation. Jim Cone, RV-6A Flying! jamescone(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com>
Subject: Re: RVator
> >In message , Bill Benedict @matronics.com> writes >> >>Larry, watch for the Feb '97 RVator. >Bill > >Any chance of getting it before June. > >Waiting on RV8 kit 1st in UK. Rob and Shawn Falzarano, The RVator is a nearly bimonthly newsletter published by Van's Aircraft. It works on a calendar year and the cost is $15 ($20 outside the US). The six issues start in Feb and end in Dec. The publish date has nothing to due with the actual date we send the copy to print nor when you will receive it! The Feb issue just went to the printers today and should be in the mail by the end of next week. As far as distribution, we have been trying to hold the cost at the current rate. During this time we have seen postage go up significantly. As a result we are now bulk rating in the US and for international, they are being grouped with other companies and shipped in bulk. Two issues ago they must have traveled around the world twice by tramp steamer before being put in the mail system. As a result, we paid a higher rate and they actually made it within three weeks to NZ and I assume other countries as well. Those people outside the US who subscribe can send me e-mail directly with their RVator arrival date so I have a handle on it. We will keep trying different distributions until we find one that works. Bill PS: There is a document we sell which is a collection of RVator articles over the last 16 years. It is appropriately entitled "16 Years of the RVator and sells for $27.95. Our part number is "RVator, 16 years" Bill N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV flying hours. RV-4-180 soon. These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or position of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring of Strobes
> >Does anyone know how many wires are required to power and control the >Whelan POS/NAV/STROBE combination lighting? I'd like to run the wiring >while I have the wing open, but don't own the lights yet. Ed, Several others have responded to your inquiry but I would like to comment also. There are several Strobe systems in the Accessories Catalog. Your first decision would be how do you want to legally illuminate your aircraft. The Catalog provides a chart from the Whelen catalog showing the requirements. This includes decisions like: *Do I have external mounted strobes on the wingtips or do I enclose them. *Do the strobes mount on the wingtips or does it mount on the stabalizer. *Do I have a one pack or a two pack system. The power pack is the device that turns the aircraft 14 volt system into 360 volts that is required for the flash to operate. These are just some of the questions that need to be answered. Depending on the system selected, you can check our Catalog and identify the type of *installation kit* that is supplied with your strobe selection and order that installation kit which is listed on one of the following catalog pages. Then when you order the strobe system for final installation, just delete the installation kit which has already been purchased. We have had articles in the RVator during the last 5 years which have been included in the 16 year collection. Bill Bill N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV flying hours. RV-4-180 soon. These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or position of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6DD(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Wiring
You can buy just the wiring. They have 30' and 60' kits. I recommend the 60' kit since you may not have decided on the placement of the power supply. The 60' doesn't cost much more than the 30' and you'd really be mad if you came up a foot short on one side. Ask the supplier if they will discount the cost of the wire kit from the complete kit later. That's what I did and it worked out great. You can run the wiring through the wings and buy the latest and greatest power supply closer to completion time. Dave D. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung(at)net1.net>
Subject: Bag Content List
Date: Feb 18, 1997
I just received my fuselage kit and need to inventory/organize the hardware bags - looks like 3-4 times the volume of the wing kit. Can anyone (Van's maybe???) provide the "Bag Content List" in any electronic format? I can convert almost any text, database or spreadsheet format. I'm planning to build my own database and produce labels and cross-references for my parts cabinets. Any help would be appreciated. Greg Young - gyoung(at)net1.net Citabria N90AV RV-6 s/n 23070 - working on wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: kiwi(at)jetstream.net (Kiwi)
Subject: Re: Wiring
Date: Feb 17, 1997
I just left the wing ribs drilled for the bushings and installed the bushings with a draw string left through them. Much like the instructions for leaving wiring access in the fin for the strobe. This way you can leave the hassle of wiring once the construction is done and the benefit of this is you can sort out the wiring routes after wings and fuselage are assembled ======================================================================= > > I am trying to recall what I did. > If you have the single power supply, there is a single cable that > comes with the strobe kit. This is a shielded cable and it has > the wires needed inside (I think it is just two wires inside for a > power and the return). Ground the shield at one end to limit EMI > (Electro Magnetic Interference). > This wire is quite thick, about 1/4 inch or so in diameter. > There will be 4 ports on the power supply. If you just use wing strobes, > you pick 2 of the ports (determined by alternate or synchrodized flash) > and just run one cable from each port to each wing tip strobe. > They give you the connectors to attach to the end after you pull the > cable thru the wing. > > I think the nav light wire must be run seperate and you can just ground > it at the tip wing rib. > > I have not looked at the remote power supplies but those would just > take 12v out to the power supply which would probably mount on the > tip rib and use the wing for ground return. > > Herman >> >> Does anyone know how many wires are required to power and control the >> Whelan POS/NAV/STROBE combination lighting? I'd like to run the wiring >> while I have the wing open, but don't own the lights yet. >> Thanks, >> Ed Cole >> emcole(at)concentric.net >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Elon Ormsby <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
John Darby wrote: I stand by my original suggestion, to put the prop to full rpm as you enter the landing pattern ------------------------------ The only time I DO NOT push the props full forward on final are:... Otherwise GUMP.. Jeffrey S. Davis ------------------------------- I certainly agree with both of your comments keeping the prop forward but so far no one has mentioned GUMP-C. That "charlie" stands for CARB HEAT. I know y'all do it but my CFI taught me to put a "C" at the end of the GUMP check. Jeff: In the pattern my MP is way back - I don't ever remember a tendency to overspeed the engine. I have not flown a gear-drive but I agree with your caution about RPMing them. Thanks for the tip. Elon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com>
Subject: Refused/appealed Medical
Bob, Having been where you're at, I can suggest that you first do some research. FAR Part 67 is the medical section and it spells out specific items that are disqualifying. If yours is not listed, I would first challenge the Aeromedical Examiner who refused to issue you the student certificate to present the appropriate regulation, and right on up the line until someone can quote you specifics. If the reason for disqualification is listed, there is a section providing for a "special issue medical", if you meet the requirements for this and go through the appropriate steps. In either case, I would not deal with the local FAA District Aeromedical Office from my experience. I would contact the Aeromedical Certification Division, FAA, Mike Monroney Aeronautical Center, P. O .Box 26080, Oklahoma City, OK 73126. The last I knew, the Manager was Audie W. Davis, M.D. and the person I dealt with was Nova Green, but that was in 1990. I no longer have their phone number, but the AME should have it. By the way, five weeks isn't slow for getting a reply from them, it typically takes much longer. In my personal experience, I went for seven years with a special issue medical based upon a local AME's mis-information from the district office. My application was stuffed in a doctor's desk in Washington, D.C. for months until I got on the phone and threatened congressional contact. Upon challenging the "big boys", I now get second-class medicals without any restrictions. Best wishes, Les Williams RV-6AQBME #60027 RV-6A #20299 sold after 350 great hrs. ---------- From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Robert Fritz Sent: Sunday, February 16, 1997 6:32 PM Subject: RV-List: Refused/appealed Medical Hi all, I'm hoping someone out there can advise me as to my next step regarding appealing a failed medical. 1. I applied for the class three physical and upon disclosing my daily use of prescribed medications the Medical Examiner stated that he could not issue the student pilot certificate. He then suggested I get a letter from my regular physician describing the condition and consequences. 2. I supplied that letter to the ME who sent the request into the FAA. 3. The FAA rejected the physical/letter stating that I had 30 days to appeal. 4. I immediatly sent a registered/return reciept request asking for all necessary paperwork and instructions and quoting both doctors that "the pathology does not warrant rejection." 5. I received the return receipt indicating the FAA got my request for appeal on 1/10/97, well within the 30 days. 6. That's been over 5 weeks and I've heard absolutely nothing. So here's my question: Can someone give me the name of a warm body at the FAA that might be able to kick this thing in the butt? I've been out with friends in two RV-4's, a Cessna 310, a T-34 Mentor, a Duchess, two A-36 Bonanza's, and a couple of other nice planes and have offers of just-pay-the-gas lessons! I gotta get this thing moving!!!!!!!! Thanks mucho, Bob Fritz RV-6 workshop, financing and everything else in place.... EXCEPT for the FAA. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wiring
From: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Ed, In my -6A, I have the Whalen power supply in the cockpit, requiring the Whalen cables to be run out to both wing tips and to the tail for a tail strobe. I am using the Whalen conbination strobe, nav (reg/green) and white running light combination on the wing tips. In addition to the Whalen strobe shielded cable (1/4" diam) I needed to run one additional wire to the wing tips for the the nav lights (red/green) and the white running light. These two lights have individual wires that are joined together at the wing tip. Be sure to size this wire properly for the combined amperage of the two bulbs. The ground return is wired to the outside rib using a star washer for a solid connection. Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV wstucklen1(at)juno.com writes: > >Does anyone know how many wires are required to power and control the >Whelan POS/NAV/STROBE combination lighting? I'd like to run the wiring > >while I have the wing open, but don't own the lights yet. >Thanks, >Ed Cole >emcole(at)concentric.net > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refused/appealed Medical
From: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Listers, Audie Davis retired in 1996...... Contact the AOPA for more infor.... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV wstucklen1(at)juno.com On Tue, 18 Feb 97 06:43:26 UT "les williams" writes: > > >Bob, ***** SNIP ****** >In either case, I would not deal with the local FAA District >Aeromedical Office from my experience. I would contact the Aeromedical >Certification Division, FAA, Mike Monroney Aeronautical Center, P. O .Box 26080, >Oklahoma City, OK 73126. The last I knew, the Manager was Audie W. Davis, M.D. >and the person I dealt with was Nova Green, but that was in 1990. I no longer >have their phone number, but the AME should have it. By the way, five >weeks isn't slow for getting a reply from them, it typically takes much longer. > ***** SNIP ******* >Les Williams >RV-6AQBME #60027 >RV-6A #20299 sold after 350 great hrs. > > >---------- >From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Robert Fritz >Sent: Sunday, February 16, 1997 6:32 PM >To: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Refused/appealed Medical > ><75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> > >Hi all, > >I'm hoping someone out there can advise me as to my next step >regarding >appealing a failed medical. > >1. I applied for the class three physical and upon disclosing my >daily use of >prescribed medications the Medical Examiner stated that he could not >issue the >student pilot certificate. He then suggested I get a letter from my >regular >physician describing the condition and consequences. > >2. I supplied that letter to the ME who sent the request into the >FAA. > >3. The FAA rejected the physical/letter stating that I had 30 days to >appeal. > >4. I immediatly sent a registered/return reciept request asking for >all >necessary paperwork and instructions and quoting both doctors that >"the >pathology does not warrant rejection." > >5. I received the return receipt indicating the FAA got my request >for appeal >on 1/10/97, well within the 30 days. > >6. That's been over 5 weeks and I've heard absolutely nothing. > >So here's my question: Can someone give me the name of a warm body at >the FAA >that might be able to kick this thing in the butt? I've been out with >friends >in two RV-4's, a Cessna 310, a T-34 Mentor, a Duchess, two A-36 >Bonanza's, and >a >couple of other nice planes and have offers of just-pay-the-gas >lessons! I >gotta get this thing moving!!!!!!!! > > >Thanks mucho, > >Bob Fritz >RV-6 workshop, financing and everything else in place.... EXCEPT for >the FAA. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Subject: Re: rudder pedal reinforcements
If you want a set of the old floor mounted RV6 rudder pedals (with gussets) I'll be more than happy to give them to you for the price of shipping. Rick McBride RICKRV6(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
<> Jim, So you still refuse to admitt that you made a mistake in building an RV. OK then, have it your way. All kidding aside. I'm sitting here reading this and green with envy. things shouldn't be that green this time of year. Congratulations Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com still trying to fit the canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: Re: Adj. Rudder Pedals
>I'm almost 6' but have short legs; my inseam is 29". I have the bottom of >the seat back in the middle position and the top in the back position. A >friend of mine is much shorter, about 5'7" with short legs. He is able to >reach the rudder pedals as they are now. I venture to guess that your wife >would be able to reach the pedals with the seat back bottom all the way >forward and the top of the seat back also all the way forward. If that >doesn't work then a fanny bumper cushion should do the trick. >John Ammeter John, I'm 6' 2" and my wife says she's 5' 3" (although I think she's shorter). I too have tried to come up with a solution. When we placed the seat back all the way forward and padded the seat back, my wife couldn't get any farther forward because of the stick. In this position, her feet were about 6 inches from the rudder peddals. I don't have brakes on the right side and would probably gain a couple of inches if I were to add them. The only solution that I've been able to come up with so far is to glue some blocks of wood onto the bottom of some old shoes. Or, maybe I could swipe some foam and fiberglass from the Glastar project and make some lightweight extensions for her shoes:) Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
Date: Feb 18, 1997
I don't agree, but I will check tonite. I recall the ring gear has the timing marks on it. The hub is 'indexed' to the crank by one of the holes being larger than the rest. Therefore, the hub is in the correct position, but the ring gear must also be positioned onto the hub properly. I will look at mine tonite, but I clearly recall the timing marks being stamped into the steel ring. Herman > > Herman , > You couldnt be more wrong! There is no index for installing the ring gear, > the index'es are on the hub. > Ryan > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen" <clevtool(at)tdsi.net>
Subject: Cleavelandtools.com
Date: Feb 18, 1997
At long last it works, our domain name that is... Cleaveland Aircraft Tools' web pages can now be found at "http://www.cleavelandtool.com" and the online order form works finally. Hope you enjoy, Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, IA 50036 1-800-368-1822 clevtool(at)tdsi.net http://www.cleavelandtool.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MikeT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Wing Nav Light Wiring
I am just at the point of running the wiring in my first wing. The Whelan combo fixture needs 12VDC for the 2 lamps and the Whelen three conductor shielded hi voltage cable for the strobe. Whelen sell install kits with the wiring in various lengths. MikeT RV-6 left wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
<< I recall the ring gear has the timing marks on it. The hub is 'indexed' to the crank by one of the holes being larger than the rest. Therefore, the hub is in the correct position, but the ring gear must also be positioned onto the hub properly. >> Herman is correct. The timing marks are on the outside of the starter ring, one at TDC and one at 25 degrees BTDC. The corresponding mark for 25 degrees BTDC is on the starter. If you have removed the Prestolite starter you can line-up the TDC mark to the split on the engine case thus giving you 25 BTDC. The "hub" at the end of the crankshaft flange has one hole which is larger than the other 5 holes therefore making it impossible to misalign the starter ring. These things come off and on easly so I wonder...if you have to heat-it and beat-it to get it on and off the engine, do you really have it lined up correctly? Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com>
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
> < to the crank by one of the holes being larger than the rest. Therefore, the > hub is in the correct position, but the ring gear must also be positioned > onto the hub properly. >> > > Gary Corde > RV-6 N211GC - NJ > I'm holding the ring gear/hub in my lap as I type this. The marks are on the _hub_...however, I'm almost absolutly sure that the marks are on the ring gear on '85W. Maybe everybody is right. Chris cruble(at)cisco.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Nav Light Wiring
aol.com!MikeT(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > I am just at the point of running the wiring in my first wing. The Whelan > combo fixture needs 12VDC for the 2 lamps and the Whelen three conductor > shielded hi voltage cable for the strobe. Whelen sell install kits with the > wiring in various lengths. > MikeT RV-6 left wing Thanks to all who responded to my request for wiring information. I wasn't aware that you could buy the installation kit separately. This looks like the logical thing to do! Ed Cole ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net>
Subject: Big Dimples!
Hey, Gang, know what time it is? It's stupid question time! Today's stupid question is: The plans say to dimple the R-803 where the counterbalance is mounted. How in the world do you dimple a 3/16" hole? I hope some of you old sages out there can help me...I'd rather not have to velcro my lead slabs in. Thanks! --Don McNamara #80113 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
<< The "hub" at the end of the crankshaft flange has one hole which is larger than the other 5 holes therefore making it impossible to misalign the starter ring. These things come off and on easly so I wonder...if you have to heat-it and beat-it to get it on and off the engine, do you really have it lined up correctly? >> Gary- I think that the original poster was talking about using heat and cold to facilitate removing the steel ring gear from the aluminum hub and replacing just the ring gear due to wear, not the removal of the hub from the flange. Just clarifying, I think. Gary VanRemortel vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com>
Subject: School
I've decided to attent the Textron Lycoming Piston Engine Service School in Williamsport,PA May 19,20,21,22. I'll be leaving Albuquerque Friday or Saturday. If anyone is interested in joining me with there own ac; company is always welcome! Dan Boudro RV-4 N9167Z Albuquerque, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com>
Subject: Re: Big Dimples!
>The plans say to dimple the R-803 where the counterbalance is mounted. >How in the world do you dimple a 3/16" hole? > Don, Avery sells #10 dimple dies for about $30. A #10 is just another name for 3/16. I have to admit that $30 for two dimples in the project is quite steep. I don't know if the -8 will use it in another place. My RV-6A never needed a #10 dimple. Hope this helps. Scott Gesele N506RV (Very close to paint) scottg(at)villagenet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
Ok Herman, I should know by now to never tell anyone there wrong. Let me say, on my airplane the index's are on the hub! I changed the ring gear to facilitate a different starter tooth arrangement. One hole is larger on the hub to index it to the crankshaft. By lining up the hub index with the case or starter you have a reference for timming. The gear is the same all the way around, it doesent care what position its in. Its only purpose is to give the starter something to grab on to. There may be more than 1 type, this is what I have dealt with. Sometimes I read what ive written and it sounds worse on paper then it does comming out of my head. I didnt mean to sound so abrupt before you have my appologies. Ryan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Navaid Devices
I would be interested in hearing how others have mounted the Navaid Devices Auto-pilot S-2 servo under the seat. Did you mount it to the ribs?, belly skin?,with or without a doubler etc. Chris Brooks BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Big Dimples!
<< The plans say to dimple the R-803 where the counterbalance is mounted. >How in the world do you dimple a 3/16" hole? >> The #8 dies seemed to work for us- I wouldn't spend the bucks for a single use set of dies. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Test taxi, flights, etc
Randy (or anyone else that has completed RV), how about a list? I would love some expert input here. No use re-inventing the wheel. Royce Craven > >I have a few thoughts on this subject Mike. I'll try to keep it >precise. What follows is a few pointers with comments that relate to >your questions. > >1. Detailed planning. Plan the entire test program (write it out) >before you begin. Make a schedule. Don't be worried about staying on >it, but follow it as events allow. Try to predict things that may not >go as planned. When you identify those things, have contigencies in >place. > > >Randy Nolin >Flight Test Engineer >US Army >EAA #514770 >RV-3 (tools & preview plans; patiently awaiting re-release of kits) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: gear leg air leak; ATC designator
From: jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER)
There is a lot of outside air passing thru the juncture of the gear leg and the fuselage of my RV6A. Not unexpected,of course. What has been used to seal this area? Eventually I'll fabricate and install a fairing at this point which should eliminate most of the problem but in the meantime I wonder if silicon gel wouldn't do the job (it remains flexible and is relatively easy to remove if the leg should ever be removed). Has ATC assigned a designator for the RV6/RV6A? I am referring to the designator used by ATC to set an aircraft's parameters in the ATC system ie. speed, etc. J. E. Rehler RV6A flying N517RL jepilot(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Big Dimples!
Don , I found that you can use a #8 screw dimple set will work ok , you will need the #8 dimple set any way if you do not have one already. keep up the good work....george Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com>
Subject: Re: Big Dimples!
Don, hi It's easy, and you don't need to buy anything. Countersink the holes in the lead until the screws heads are a little below flush in the countersinks. Then bolt the parts together and tighten the nuts. The screw heads will form their own dimples. You will find the screws provided are a bit too long, and need a stack of washers. I bought some shorter ones from Wicks. -- Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005 philip.arter(at)mci2000.com http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html (303)459-0435 home ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Big Dimples!
Don, I simply countersunk the lead weight and then used the countersunk bolt to dimple the skin. It doesn't provide as crisp a dimple as a standard die but it worked just fine. Rick McBride RICKRV6(at)aol.com RV6 N523JC RV8 80027 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tip-Up Canopy
From: bstobbe(at)juno.com (Bruce D Stobbe)
Date: Feb 19, 1997
While studying the blueprints the other night I noticed that the tip-up canopy installation appears to provide a means for emergency canopy release - apparently you pull a handle and the hinge pins are released allowing the canopy to fly off. Have any of you left this feature out of your plane? I'm considering doing so because it appears to me that this feature isn't too useful if you're not wearing a parachute at the time. Or is there some other reason you would want this capability? Bruce Stobbe RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EBundy2620(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Adj. Rudder Pedals
> The only > solution that I've been able to come up with so far is to glue some blocks > of wood onto the bottom of some old shoes. Or, maybe I could swipe some > foam and fiberglass from the Glastar project and make some lightweight > extensions for her shoes:) > I went just the oppostie direction. I made up some dense foam blocks that velcro on to the pedals. Works great. Ed Bundy RV6A #23834 N427EM - flying Eagle, ID ebundy2620(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Navaid Devices
<> Chris- I installed it just like the instructions from Navaid said. I built four doublers that span between the three outer ribs and rivet to the belly skin and the ribs. The second starboard rib gets cut out to clear the servo box outline and a reinforcing angle goes in to restore lost strength. Make sure you get the crank overhand and as forward as possible without interfering with push rod motion to put it as much in line with the control tube so the transverse angle is low (to minimize any pitching tendency). E-mail me direct if not clear. Regards, Gary VanRemortel vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Big Dimples!
Nope...not so. A #10 is an ANSI standard screw, the 3/16 is a Whitworth (Brit) standard. There is about .0025 In. difference in major diameter between the two; Maj. Diam. #10 = .1900 Maj. Diam. 3/16 = .1875 For the real nit-pickers out there... The AN standards were developed when the ANSI was called the "American" standard, so technically, it's not really an ANSI thred. Chris > A #10 is just another name for > 3/16. > > Scott Gesele N506RV (Very close to paint) > scottg(at)villagenet.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Wiring
<< .Do the wires that go through ribs and thing's get a little brackets with foam padding like I've seen somewhere on another airplane?????. >> David, some of us use a length of plastic sprinkler tubing as a wire conduit. It's smooth and you can easily pushwire through. just put it in before you close the wing. I put my power supply under the luggage floor to isolate the RFI noise. Probably not needed but it's cute. Remember that strob power supplys will got bad in storage they need to be used. Hook the strobes to a battery about once a month and let it blink for a half an hour. Otherwise the power supply capacitor will need to be reformed ( whatever that means) Gene Francis, cafgef(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: lightweight filler
<< Poly Fiber's "Superlight Epoxy Filler >> Sounds like good stuff, Dave. How about a source? Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us>
Subject: Cowling Antenna Mount
Dear John, In your Sept 1994 Puget Sound RVator Jerry Heron discusses the dipole antenna that he installed in the cowl for his VOR. Is Jerry a local fellow? Would you know how I could get in touch with him? Have you heard of any other antenna installations in the cowl area? I would like to do that with a comm antenna for sure, possibly a VOR, but I'm not too eager to put a VOR in the aircraft at all. Thanks..! Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us Seattle area ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Navaid Devices
Chris, I mounted the Navaid on the directly to the floor with a doubler using four #8 screws. It has worked fine this way for over with no problems, I also completed a similliar installation in an RV-6A also encountering no problems. You will love the autopilot, it is a fine piece of gear that makes x-countrys a treat. Regards; Bill Mahoney RV-6 N747W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Sellmeyer" <scotts(at)pacusa.com>
Subject: Re: Tip-Up Canopy
Date: Feb 19, 1997
> While studying the blueprints the other night I noticed that the tip-up > canopy installation appears to provide a means for emergency canopy > release - SNIP > Or is there some other reason you would want this capability? I would retain the feature in case of an off-airport landing. There is always a possibility that you could bend the fuselage in such a manner that would jam the canopy latching mechanism and hinder your exit from the airplane. That is why you are supposed to open doors on some airplanes prior to touchdown in an emergency landing. By releasing the hinge pins in the -6, you could almost guarantee that you will be able exit the plane provided you are not injured too badly, or the plane is on its back with the vertical stab deep in the ground! I also plan to carry a canopy-knife/breakout tool of some kind just in case. Scott Sellmeyer RV-6 (tip-up) Horizontal Stab ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com>
Subject: Re: Tip-Up Canopy
> apparently you pull a handle and the hinge pins are released >allowing the canopy to fly off.> >Or is there some other reason you would want this capability? > >Bruce Stobbe >RV-6 Bruce, To remove the canopy for maintenance. Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DkSJC(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: gear leg air leak; ATC designator
<< Has ATC assigned a designator for the RV6/RV6A? I am referring to the designator used by ATC to set an aircraft's parameters in the ATC system ie. speed, etc. >> ATC has not yet created a specific designator for the RV series. We are lumped in the EXPERIMENTAL, speed 100-200 Kts category which is -- HXB. I'm not sure what it takes to get a specific designator, GlasAir and Lancair both have one and there a certainly more RV's out there than either of those types. Any ideas out there of how to accomplish this? A side issue, the FAR's specifically require the operator of an aircraft issued an Experimental Type Certificate to "advise each ATC unit of the Experimental nature of the aircraft." IE: we should all be checking on with ATC as "EXPERIMENTAL RV-_ (N #). DkSJC -4 Builder and Air Traffic Control Specialist. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: starter ring gear
Date: Feb 19, 1997
There are probably various versions so, yes we are all correct. Most builders never have to replace the ring gear on the hub but if you do, then be sure it is positioned properly IF it has ANY timing marks stamped onto the steel starter ring. Herman > > > > < > to the crank by one of the holes being larger than the rest. Therefore, the > > hub is in the correct position, but the ring gear must also be positioned > > onto the hub properly. >> > > > > > Gary Corde > > RV-6 N211GC - NJ > > > > I'm holding the ring gear/hub in my lap as I type this. The marks are on > the _hub_...however, I'm almost absolutly sure that the marks are on the > ring gear on '85W. Maybe everybody is right. > > Chris > cruble(at)cisco.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz>
Subject: Engine options
RVators Are there any fliers out there with a HIO-360C1A under the cowl of their RV? I am interested to hear of compatibility problems with the standard engine mount, rear facing air intake etc. This engine has come out of a Enstrom F28A and the flange end on the crank-shaft is heavy walled (1 inch centre bore). L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 169.9hr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DougMel(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Barnard Aircraft Components
Has anyone out there used the BAC fastbuild wing kit option from Vans'? I would appreciate any comments from anyone who has tried it. DougMel(at)aol.com getting ready to order wingkit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allan W. Mojzisik" <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Wiring
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Gene, Where did you get your facts for this piece of information? I have a set of new Whelan's that won't be used for a while yet. I've never heard of this. Maybe Bob Nuckolls would care to comment? Al prober(at)iwaynet.net ---------- From: aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 1997 6:04 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Remember that strob power supplys will got bad in storage they need to be used. Hook the strobes to a battery about once a month and let it blink for a half an hour. Otherwise the power supply capacitor will need to be reformed ( whatever that means) Gene Francis, cafgef(at)aol.com begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(B$6`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`"0!```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```$D`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!R=BUL:7-T0&UA=')O M;FEC``,P`0```!8```!R=BUL:7-T0&UA=')O;FEC.@$````"`?8/`0````0````````#-#`0.0!@"H! ``$@````L`(P```````P`F M```````+`"D```````,`-@``````0 `Y`(!.](FS'KP!'@!P``$````4```` M4D4Z(%)6+4QIQ%L^ .BG01 MT(TJ1$535 `````>`!X,`0````4```!33510`````!X`'PP!````$P```'!R M;V)E)S M=&5M`H,SMP+D!Q,"@S02S!3%?0J BPC/"=D[%YDQ,C@*(Q\9<0* "H$-L0M@ M;FP=6.::P;P; 0@(T!U;!W@YF,*P!V@=&\H4 -P!X#W`C A`"E@00,@$U G M0 20^$!I=R;@', E`"IQ"H5!"HML:3$X, +1:? M,30T#? ,T"S#"UD\,38* MH -@$] >\" M7R[G"H0!X &T"6Q(O,3P"G1'[#$;W"W"X!,D06P81Y 'V%E/-#_', C\2BQ(Z ;?QR 0Z=*W8,C MTB40($AO;VM/4O],E >1*+$AD$YP`D $D#S0]P&@"& AT6X?\2&0!& ",+IH M(8!N'> DL 5 :2.!_2P@;E.@'S%07U%O+E&_4N9@J%%L$"`&<```,`$! ````` M`P`1$ ````! ``O % ``@P("4]^+(>O $>`#T``0````4```!2 )13H@`````'1; ` end ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6DD(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Tip-Up Canopy
Bruce, You may want to jetison the canopy if something got on the canopy to prevent looking out. A massive oil leak could do this as well as unexpected ice. I had an ocassion where ice almost prevented me from seeing out of the canopy. A friend and I ( he was in his 4, Me in my 6 ) were returning to our home base at 3000 ft (airport is 590) and it started to rain. It wasn't that cold outside at 3000, but when we desended to 2000, the rain turned to ice on the canopy. Can you spell inversion? It built up very rapidly. We were lucky to be within a half mile from the airport when this happened. We both dove down to the runway. We were both HOT ( speed ) he landed first and I had to do an overhead approach. That 20 seconds it took me to get back around on a very short pattern ( not really a pattern, more like a constant 360 turn to get back to the runway ) added enough ice that I had to look out the side to see out. I was just glad that I had 300 hours in the 6. Temperature on the ground was above freezing. We never expected an inversion layer, but, it almost had us in a very serious situation. Anyway, if the ice had continued, I may have had to pop the canopy. Believe me, I was glad that I had that option if I needed it. If this had happened at a higher altitude or further from an airport, I may have been building a new canopy. Go ahead guys and gals, flame me for flying in these conditions. This is a "I learned from flying from that". There are probably other reasons to keep the release handle, such as, removing the canopy to work behind the panel, water landing, and whatever else you guys can think of. Dave D. Sold my RV-6 2 years ago, saw it for sale in Trade a Plane. You can buy it, and get this, for a measly $96,500. Not a typo, I said 96 thousand five hundred. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wallace R. Penney" <wallyp(at)interlog.com>
Subject: Lycoming IO-360 Engines
Date: Feb 19, 1997
I am looking for some information on Lycoming IO-360 engines for a = fellow RV builder who is now in the market for one. From the Lyc. engine = designations we note that some versions of this engine have a crankshaft = that is 'counterweighted' for higher order harmonics. We were told that = this crankshaft permits operation throughout the entire speed range = while the 'regular' crankshaft is placarded against operation in some = speed ranges (say 1800 to 2100 rpm???). I find this hard to believe but = this engine is typically used with a constant speed prop and a = restriction in the lower rpm range would not impose much hardship. = However, if the engine were mated to a fixed pitch prop, it certainly = would be a problem. I suspect that only certain engine/propellor = combinations have operating restrictions but are there any O-360 owners = out there who can tell us the full story. Thanks for your help. Wallace Penney flying RV-3 C-GPNY Toronto wallyp(at)interlog.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Ammeter John
From: ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: Cowling Antenna Mount
Jerry and his wife, Kay, live on Queen Anne Hill in Seattle. His phone number is 206-284-6157. I think he keeps his airplane on Vashon Island and may have a house over there, too. I add that since I haven't talked to Jerry for a couple of years now and he may have moved. JA >Dear John, > In your Sept 1994 Puget Sound RVator Jerry Heron discusses the >dipole antenna that he installed in the cowl for his VOR. Is Jerry a >local fellow? Would you know how I could get in touch with him? Have you >heard of any other antenna installations in the cowl area? > I would like to do that with a comm antenna for sure, possibly a >VOR, but I'm not too eager to put a VOR in the aircraft at all. > >Thanks..! > >Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us >Seattle area > > > > > > > > > > > > > > John Ammeter ammeterj(at)seanet.com 3233 NE 95th St Seattle WA, 98115 USA RV-6 N16JA First flight August 1990 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: John Ely <jmely(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: lightweight filler
aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > > << Poly Fiber's "Superlight Epoxy Filler >> > Sounds like good stuff, Dave. How about a source? > I used this filler for blending the canopy to the forward skins over a fiberglass skirt. In its favor, it is REALLY sticky so it has few adherence problems. It is also convenient to use. BUT!!!! About one month after I used it, I saw small yellow "greasy-looking" areas appearing all over. It is probably unmixed resin diffusing from down deep. Believe me - I thought that I mixed the heck out of the components before applying. It is VERY viscous material and therefore tiring to mix, but if you are going to use it - mix it well, then mix it again, then keep on mixing it. Secondly, I found that it cured to a very hard surface that was more difficult to sand to a feather edge compared with micro-balloons. Due to its hardness, it was also difficult to spot fill small depressions without creating a local swelling. If I had to do it again, I would use self-mixed epoxy/balloons. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net>
Subject: RV-Cad
> > I am involed with many a hobby and find that I always end up making a > 3-D digital model of some of the critical Installations and just to make > sure things fit.Its amasing to see full scale patterns and drawings > printed to hundreth of an inch or better if you use the center of a > line.All it takes is a basic inkjet printer and a good cad program like > Auto-Cad and a few hours of futzing.Seems like once you start building > alot of time is spent designing and fabricating costom mounts and fill > in ribs or gussets extra.When I get that far I'm gonna document my parts > and utilize my plans to render the vitual 3-D RV-4, and with some input > could do the RV-6 also.A problem could have a solution with full size > plan and templates if enough listers have 3-D cad capabilities,I'm shure > there's alot.Answers could simply be a jpeg or whatever that is pulled > from a 3-D vertual drawing,any place any angle any part in the form of > picture or drawing in any scale sent email.But before I go on to far and > long,I was wondering if this has been done or if there is any interest > in it at all?? Oh boy I went on to far and had a lot of other threads > here that are on my mind.Soom great stuff here!!!!!!! > David Price(Got to start soon!!!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring
Date: Feb 19, 1997
I have read the same thing. I think it even says this in the owners manual or warrenty info you get with your strobes. I had mine stored for about 3 yrs and they still worked OK so I don't think it is a major problem. This is the classic case of 'use it or loose it'. Herman > > Gene, > Where did you get your facts for this piece of information? I have a set of > new Whelan's that won't be used for a while yet. I've never heard of this. > Maybe Bob Nuckolls would care to comment? Al prober(at)iwaynet.net > > ---------- > From: aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com] > Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 1997 6:04 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring > > Remember that strob power supplys will got bad in storage they need to be > used. Hook the strobes to a battery about once a month and let it blink > for a half an hour. Otherwise the power supply capacitor will need to be > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Bob Haan <bobh(at)cdac.com>
Subject: Re: Barnard Aircraft Components
> >Has anyone out there used the BAC fastbuild wing kit option from Vans'? I >would appreciate any comments from anyone who has tried it. > Another benefit of the BAC Kit is Steve Barnard has very accurately pre drilled all the aileron mounting fittings so that during assembly the alignment of the ailerons is accurate and automatic including the positioning of the aileron stops. Also, the end fittings on the aileron control rods are welded not riveted. I used it and would certainly use it again. Bob Haan bobh(at)cdac.com Portland, OR 503-636-3550 RV6A drilling the fuselage skins ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: gear leg air leak; ATC designator
From: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen)
REHLER) writes: > ***** SNIP **** >Has ATC assigned a designator for the RV6/RV6A? I am referring to the >designator used by ATC to set an aircraft's parameters in the ATC >system ie. speed, etc. >J. E. Rehler RV6A flying N517RL >jepilot(at)juno.com > YES! ATC will accept RV6 for a designator. If, when filing a flight plan, flight service is not familiar with the RV6, then use HXB (Experimental under 200Knots). Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV wstucklen1(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Trim-tab cable routing
Hi to finished RV-6 builders, A quick point of clarification; in the RV-6 manual, regarding building the left elevator, Vans say something like "It is easier to route the trim-tab cable if skins are open for access" or something similar (Damn! I don't have the manual here with me). Do they mean that I should not close up the left elevator skins now? I'd like to get this completed and out of the way, if I can. It doesn't look to be much of a problem: poke the cable through the hole in the spar, and it should be easy to grab it through the hole in the E-615 & skin and pull it through. (My plane will have manual trim). So, you guys who've completed a -6... what did you do? Thanks, Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@[206.242.164.4]>
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Wiring
> To: N5lp > From: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: 19 Feb 97 17:09:50 -0500 > Subject: RE: RV-List: Wiring > > > Gene, > Where did you get your facts for this piece of information? I have a set of I just helped a friend install Whelens on a LongEZ. The Whelen book said these exact things. Use the strobes regularly or the capacitor may need to be reformed. Instructions are included for reforming. Larry RV-6 Working on tail Pacer N8025D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: gear leg air leak; ATC designator
From: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen)
writes: > > ><< > Has ATC assigned a designator for the RV6/RV6A? I am referring to the >designator used by ATC to set an aircraft's parameters in the ATC system > ie. speed, etc. >> > ATC will officially accept the RV6 designator with slash equipment type. Example: RV6/U This was instituted last year sometime, and was written up in either sport aviation or AOPA magazine. > >ATC has not yet created a specific designator for the RV series. We are >lumped in the EXPERIMENTAL, speed 100-200 Kts category which is -- >HXB. I'm >not sure what it takes to get a specific designator, GlasAir and Lancair both >have one and there a certainly more RV's out there than either of those >types. Lancair and GlasAir designators were officail at the same time the RV6 was accepted. I don't remember their designations. >Any ideas out there of how to accomplish this? A side issue, the FAR's >specifically require the operator of an aircraft issued an Experimental Type >Certificate to "advise each ATC unit of the Experimental nature of the >aircraft." IE: we should all be checking on with ATC as "EXPERIMENTAL >RV-_(N #). > >DkSJC >-4 Builder and Air Traffic Control Specialist. > As I recall, this is not entirerly correct. The FAR's specifically state that we should identify ourselves as experimental when communicating with a control tower at a controled field. The FAR's do not specifically state that we need to identify ourselves as experimental to ATC. Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV 200Hr+ IFR wstucklen1(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: Re: Navaid Devices
> >I would be interested in hearing how others have mounted the Navaid >Devices Auto-pilot S-2 servo under the seat. Did you mount it to the >ribs?, belly skin?,with or without a doubler etc. > >Chris Brooks > BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net Chris, I mounted my servo unit under the passenger seat per plans. I flush riveted a .040" doubler on the bottom skin. I bent uup the edges of the doubler making it into a "U" channel for additional strenght. I went from the servo to the pass. control stick. One RVer had a better idea, I believe. He used a longer rod and went from the servo to the bottom of the pilots stick. This method gives a shallower angle that the two rod end bearings have to operate in as compared to the shorter rod. The shorter rod means that placement of the servo is exacting because of the wide range of travel. On my next six, I plan on looking into installing the servo in the wing. Regards, Bob Skinner(at)navix.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DGreen9032(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: gear leg air leak; ATC designator
Please don't use silicone to seal you'r gear legs. Silicone products will attack aluminum. I don't know this for a fact but in the loctite users guide says it will. Daryl Green (wings almost done) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Tip-Up Canopy
> You may want to jetison the canopy if something got on the canopy to > prevent looking out. A massive oil leak could do this as well as unexpected > ice. Fella's, my tip-up has yet to leave terra firma for the first time, but I am not planning to include the jettison handle even though I have already built it and all the associated structure. Reason: you cannot jettison the tip-up in flight. The geometry of the gooseneck hinges is such that the canopy must be opened nearly 45 degrees to clear the bulkhead flange and allow the front of the canopy to come free. I contend this would be impossible under flight speed airloads Then you've got the two gas lift struts to contend with. Even assuming these break away, the likely result is a tumbling departure of the canopy which seems guaranteed to rip either your head or the empennage off. The plexiglass shattering tool seems the way to go. Just bust a peep hole in front and look through the ice. Hope you brought GOGGLES or you won't see much in that 300 mph slipstream except the backs of your eyelids! The above is submitted as speculation, but for now I believe it firmly enough that I won't bother with the weight and clutter of the jettison handle in my instrument panel. For service I plan to reach under the panel manually and pull the pins. Bill Boyd Pondering all the engine plumbing details ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net>
Subject: First Flight Today Of My RV6A - SUCCESS !
Well, after 1.5 years of hard work on my RV6A, and super help from my teenagers, my RV6A was signed off this morning by DAR ED HASCH (615-824-4704). He did a superb job of inspecting my RV6A, and am indebted to him for flying all the way up from Nashville to Chicago to do my certification, since none of the FAA MIDO or FSDO in Chicago could commit to doing an inspection on a timely basis ( even though they were alerted of this date 3 months ago ). Ed has built an RV6, so he was especially knowledgable. Even though I have over 1000 hours in all types of planes ( including T28, B17, etc. ), I cannot adequately describe in words how exciting it was to fly the RV6A. I had taken 10 hours dual in Vans prototype RV6 with Mike Seager one year ago, so I new I was in store for some fantastic airplane performane. I had completed slow taxi tests ( about 25 mph ) two nights before and felt confident of the ground control. After I received the airworthy certificate, everybody was asking what time I was going to fly it. Knowing how hard I worked to get this put together and certified, they were surprised to hear me say, maybe later after lunch if I feel like it. The look of disbelief on all their faces was funny. As they all left one by one, my son and I put the inspection plates back on. My wife arrived back with the VCR, so only family was present. Without feeling any pressure, I got in the plane, called the tower, told them this was my first flight, and said I might abort the takeoff and just do a taxi test. As I got on the 4800 foot runway, I slowly pushed the throttle forward, it felt good, I didn't feel pressured to fly, and I felt confident so I put the throttle to the firewall. By the time I was at the end of the runway, I was already at 145 MPH, climbing over 1500 feet per minute. In a very short time, I was leveled off at 2400 feet indicating 190 MPH (verified by GPS). Incredible machine ! I did not have the wheel pants on, or landing gear fairings, so I expect it will not have a hard time hitting 200 MPH when I put them on. The plane required very little trim on aileron and elevator. As expected, I had to hold some rudder in at 190 MPH. The wood prop is incredibly smooth, the tipup canopy gives awesome views, and the control is very tight and light. The funnest plane I have ever flown ! Today seemed like a dream, that I still find hard to believe would ever come true. You know the feeling, thinking will it ever get done. But I can tell you, persistence works ! For those interested, the following stats: 180 HP Lycoming from Vans Sterba Wood Prop King IFR equipped Full Vacuum panel Backup Electric Attitude Indicator Electric trim aileron and elevator Electric flaps All parts primed Thick paint job Heated pitot tube Heated defrost fan ventilation system turbo fan cabin ventilation system with Naca Vents Two High intensity wing landing lights Whelan strobes and Position Lights Electric Engine Primer Rear Cabin flood lights, speaker For all that good stuff, empty weight was fairly high at 1106 pounds. Anyway thanks to all on this list who have answered many of my questions and given me some great ideas and encouragement. Please forgive my memory if I fail to mention your name, but special thanks go to the following folks who come to mind: John McMahon (for finding me DAR Ed Hasch) George Orndorff Jerry Springer Bob Skinner Gil Alexander Randall Henderson Chet Razer (thanks Chet for putting up with my canopy phone calls !) Scott Gesele Dan Boudro Bill Benedict Dave Barnhart Frederick Stucklen Ed Bundy Vans builder support group: John Morgan, Tom Greene, Ken Scott ... and many more Anyways, as soon as I get my 40 hours signed off, I hope I can meet some of you in person this summer as I plan to take off four weeks and RV6A tour the US with my wife. Well, I hope this encourages you builders out there. Now for my next project ... (RV8 ?) ( wife says bathrooms, roof, kitchen ) .... Scott Johnson / Ecstatic in Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com>
Subject: Re: Engine options
> >RVators > >Are there any fliers out there with a HIO-360C1A under the cowl of their RV? >I am interested to hear of compatibility problems with the standard engine >mount, rear facing air intake etc. This engine has come out of a Enstrom >F28A and the flange end on the crank-shaft is heavy walled (1 inch centre bore). > >L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 169.9hr Mz L, I will try to get the activity going on this one. I have heard that helicopter engines need to have the cam replaced if the engine is going to be used in a fixed wing. Heli's ususally turn at a higher RPM and the cam is different to correct the valve timing for the higher RPM's. The rear facing sump will run directly into the cross member on the engine mount. On many of the sumps, there are pads on both ends of the sump and you might be able to move the servo to the front side and put a plate over the opening on the rear side. Several people have used the rear facing servo's if you use an elbow immediately and turn upward. One fellow in a -4 did this and then used SCAT tube to bring air down to the elbow. The -360 can suck so much air that it collapsed the SCAT tube and the aircraft went down, claiming the pilot, so be careful. Bill Bill N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV flying hours. RV-4-180 soon. These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or position of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com>
Subject: Re: gear leg air leak; ATC designator
> >There is a lot of outside air passing thru the juncture of the gear leg >and the fuselage of my RV6A. Not unexpected,of course. What has been used to seal this area? Eventually I'll fabricate and install a fairing >at this point which should eliminate most of the problem but in the meantime I wonder if silicon gel wouldn't do the job (it remains flexible >and is relatively easy to remove if the leg should ever be removed). > >Has ATC assigned a designator for the RV6/RV6A? I am referring to the designator used by ATC to set an aircraft's parameters in the ATC system >ie. speed, etc. > >J. E. Rehler RV6A flying N517RL >jepilot(at)juno.com The manual calls out using RTV to seal this junction. Just use care because paint will not stick to any metal the RTV has come into contact with. I've heard from one ATC type that RV's have an ATC symbol. However, another ATC type indicated that there is not an RV specific symbol. Bill Bill N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV flying hours. RV-4-180 soon. These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or position of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight Today Of My RV6A - SUCCESS !
> >Well, after 1.5 years of hard work on my RV6A, and super help from my >teenagers, my RV6A was signed off this morning by DAR ED HASCH >(615-824-4704)..... >Without feeling any pressure, I got in the plane, called the tower, told >them this was my first flight, and said I might abort the takeoff and just >do a taxi test. As I got on the 4800 foot runway, I slowly pushed the >throttle forward, it felt good, I didn't feel pressured to fly, and I felt >confident so I put the throttle to the firewall. Congratulations Scott. The more you fly it, the more you will like it. Keep your airspeed up and the dirty side down, unless you want to have even more fun. Bill Bill N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV flying hours. RV-4-180 soon. These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or position of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Greg Puckett <71155.2336(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: First Flight Today Of My RV6A - SUCCESS !
Scott Johnson wrote: >Well, I hope this encourages you builders out there. Now for my next project >... (RV8 ?) ( wife says bathrooms, roof, kitchen ) .... Scott, you better believe it does!!! Congrats on a job obviously well done. Every now and then a project this big is bound to get a bit frustrating at times and stories about successfull completions like yours is no less a contributing factor to the successfull completion of our own projects as the answers to technical questions. Thanks for the boost, Greg Puckett 80081 (Some great looking spars spread about the living room floor) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net>
Subject: Re: Trim-tab cable routing
Frank van der Hulst wrote: > > > Hi to finished RV-6 builders, > > A quick point of clarification; in the RV-6 manual, regarding building the > left elevator, Vans say something like "It is easier to route the trim-tab > cable if skins are open for access" or something similar (Damn! I don't have > the manual here with me). > > Do they mean that I should not close up the left elevator skins now? I'd > like to get this completed and out of the way, if I can. It doesn't look to > be much of a problem: poke the cable through the hole in the spar, and it > should be easy to grab it through the hole in the E-615 & skin and pull it > through. (My plane will have manual trim). > > So, you guys who've completed a -6... what did you do? > > Thanks, > > Frank. Grab it and pull it through, that works fine. -- Chet Razer crazer(at)egyptian.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us>
Subject: Re: Tip-Up Canopy
Dear Dave, Just a thought. The aircraft may be more difficult to fly without a canopy than obscured with ice. A most undesirable aerodynamic shape over the fuselage............? Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us On Wed, 19 Feb 1997 aol.com!RV6DD(at)matronics.com wrote: > > Bruce, You may want to jetison the canopy if something got on the canopy to > prevent looking out. A massive oil leak could do this as well as unexpected > ice. I had an ocassion where ice almost prevented me from seeing out of the > canopy. A friend and I ( he was in his 4, Me in my 6 ) were returning to > our home base at 3000 ft (airport is 590) and it started to rain. It wasn't > that cold outside at 3000, but when we desended to 2000, the rain turned to > ice on the canopy. Can you spell inversion? It built up very rapidly. We > were lucky to be within a half mile from the airport when this happened. We > both dove down to the runway. We were both HOT ( speed ) he landed first > and I had to do an overhead approach. That 20 seconds it took me to get back > around on a very short pattern ( not really a pattern, more like a constant > 360 turn to get back to the runway ) added enough ice that I had to look > out the side to see out. I was just glad that I had 300 hours in the 6. > Temperature on the ground was above freezing. We never expected an > inversion layer, but, it almost had us in a very serious situation. > Anyway, if the ice had continued, I may have had to pop the canopy. > Believe me, I was glad that I had that option if I needed it. If this had > happened at a higher altitude or further from an airport, I may have been > building a new canopy. > Go ahead guys and gals, flame me for flying in these conditions. This > is a "I learned from flying from that". > There are probably other reasons to keep the release handle, such as, > removing the canopy to work behind the panel, water landing, and whatever > else you guys can think of. > > Dave D. Sold my RV-6 2 years ago, saw it for sale in Trade a Plane. You > can buy it, and get this, for a measly $96,500. Not a typo, I said 96 > thousand five hundred. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Barry WARD <ward(at)axime.com>
Subject: Re: Barnard Aircraft Components
I used both the basic and deluxe Barnard Kits and am well satisfied with having spent the money. The excellent Barnard work the Phlogistone Spar plus George O's tapes make the building of the wing almost a pleasure for a first time builder like me. You still have to proseal the tanks! The people at Van's tend to think the Deluxe kit is not as useful due to the prepunched skins now available, but I decided to go for it anyway. When you consider the total cost of an RV project and the importance of having a well built set of wings I don't think an extra $4k is too expensive. Another advantage is the time saved, as if building your RV is not your main occupation you may have job, wife house etc. The bottom line is if I was to do it again I would go the same route. Barry Ward ward(at)axime.com finishing off flaps RV6A The opinions expressed above do not necessarily reflect those of my wife. > >Has anyone out there used the BAC fastbuild wing kit option from Vans'? I >would appreciate any comments from anyone who has tried it. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Edmondson" <Tazman(at)lakemartin.net>
Subject: address
Date: Feb 20, 1997
tazman(at)lakemartin.net Joe Edmondson 554 Powell Dr. Jacksons Gap, Al. 36861 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com>
Subject: Re: lightweight filler
> > It is VERY viscous material and > therefore tiring to mix, but if you are going to use it - mix it well, > then mix it again, then keep on mixing it. Any heavy Bondo-like product (including Proseal) should be mixed on a flat surface by spreding the material into a thin layer, followed by scraping it up into a mound again. Keep doing this until you have a uniform color. Stiring it like waffle batter doesn't work. It's also inportant to remember when sanding, that you are making a shape, _not_ sanding out low spots. If you have low spots, rough-up the area with course sand-paper and fill with another layer of filler. Pin holes should be filled with laquer-puddy. Laquer-puddy shrinks, so let it sit for a day or two before sanding. After all this is done, shoot a coat of fast-build primer and let that sit for at least a week, more if you have time,as it also shrinks. More pin-holes might show up at this point. Fill them with laquer-puddy, and sand after sitting for another day. Finally, when you sand the final surface, sand with a block only (no hand held paper) and don't get in a hurry. Attempting to sand to fast will cause ripples in the surface. If you can feel the ripple with your hand, you will see it when the final coat of paint is applied. If the part will sit for an extended time with no paint, apply a coat of sealer. Primer will not seal the surface, and will allow it to soak up finger prints, air-born oil from your air tools, etc, etc, etc. Chris cruble(at)cisco.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rust47rg(at)one.net
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Subject: Re: gear leg air leak; ATC designator
> > ><< > Has ATC assigned a designator for the RV6/RV6A? I am referring to the >designator used by ATC to set an aircraft's parameters in the ATC system > ie. speed, etc. >> > > >ATC has not yet created a specific designator for the RV series. We are >lumped in the EXPERIMENTAL, speed 100-200 Kts category which is -- HXB. I'm >not sure what it takes to get a specific designator, GlasAir and Lancair both >have one and there a certainly more RV's out there than either of those >types. > >Any ideas out there of how to accomplish this? A side issue, the FAR's >specifically require the operator of an aircraft issued an Experimental Type >Certificate to "advise each ATC unit of the Experimental nature of the >aircraft." IE: we should all be checking on with ATC as "EXPERIMENTAL RV-_ >(N #). > >DkSJC >-4 Builder and Air Traffic Control Specialist. > Well I'm not too sure about that....I used to file as an HXB/U but about a year or so ago I asked this same question to somebody at my friendly flight service station and was told that the system now accepts an RV-4. I fly a fair amount of IFR and haven't had a problem filing through Duats or flight service. The nice thing is the controllers know what they are talking to now and they don't have to ask. You still need to follow proper radio procedures ie, Experimental_____. etc.etc. Would be nice if they would change that too. Regards: Rusty Gossard N47RG RV-4 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tip-Up Canopy
From: lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald)
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Regarding the canopy release. In the event of a crash you may have the opportunity to release the canopy before your plane hits the ground. The canopy will offer you a lot of crash protection if its on the plane, but if your plane ends up upside down you will have to lift the plane off the canopy to escape the plane. In the early 80s a T-18 stalled and crashed on Wittman Field's R-27. The plane slammed into the ground, loosing it's landing gear and flipped over ending up inverted on the runway. The pilot and his son, for some reason, were not able to remove the plane from the canopy. There was a fire. Sometimes we play the" what if " game. I guess that's a very important "game" when it comes down to life or death decisions. Larry lm4(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com>
Subject: Re: Tip-Up Canopy
>Fella's, my tip-up has yet to leave terra firma for the first time, but I am >not planning to include the jettison handle even though I have already built >it and all the associated structure. Reason: you cannot jettison the tip-up >in flight. The geometry of the gooseneck hinges is such that the canopy must >be opened nearly 45 degrees to clear the bulkhead flange and allow the front >of the canopy to come free. Bill, I agree with you on the gooseneck hinges catching on the sub-panel. The benefits of the release mechanism were covered a few months ago. At first, I was planning on omitting the mechanism and just reaching under the panel and removing the nuts and bolts that act as the hinge. It was recommended on this list, and I have to agree, that this operation will be nearly impossible or at the very least very difficult. The nuts will be in the corner of the curved portion of the top forward skin. The bolts will be around the radio stack. You might find them easy to pull out now if the forward skin isn't rivetted yet, but just imaging lying on your back and reaching up in that corner around the radios and trying to pop those bolts back in while two other people hold and position the canopy. This isn't a pretty sight. My solution is as follows: The mechanism is installed behind the sub-panel. No release handle extends back through the instrument panel to save space. To release to pins, you reach under the panel, remove an AN-3 bolt that safeties the assembly and rotate Van's mechanism that came with the kit. I have tried installing and removing the canopy and it works very well. The only downside is that it can't be jettisoned in flight. As was mentioned, I doubt that the gooseneck hinges will allow the canopy to jettison anyway. The modified release mechanism is for maintenance purposes only. The weight penalty is minimal. Hope this helps. Scott Gesele (N506RV- It will fly this Spring) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: "Richard E Steffens" <resteffe(at)dpcmail.dukepower.com>
Subject: Re: Engine options
>Are there any fliers out there with a HIO-360C1A under the cowl of >their RV? I am interested to hear of compatibility problems with the >standard engine mount, rear facing air intake etc. This engine has >come out of a Enstrom F28A and the flange end on the crank-shaft is >heavy walled (1 inch centre bore). >L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 169.9hr I am using a HIO-360-B1A in my RV-6. I got it as a core and rebuilt it. Had to get a new crank shaft so I got one that has provision for a constant speed (I'm using a fixed pitch wood prop) and with a thicker prop flange without lightening holes. I also put in a new camshaft. The sump with the rear facing injection servo would not work because and elbow that turns down will hit the motor mount cross tube. The fuel pump also partially blocks an upturning elbow. I got a sump with a down facing intake. It was from a 0-320-E2D which uses the same casting and has the intake hole in the bottom front of the sump. The intake hole needs to be milled out on a bevel to fit the injector servo. Also different intake tubes are necessary. I got those parts from Ilene at N-Parts (800-444-3305). An elbow coming out of the bottom of the sump will make the servo front facing. A tube from the servo goes out the front of the cowl. This tube has a branch and a valve. Valve open gives ram air direct to the servo. Valve closed is air from inside the cowl thru a cone filter to the servo. Got the elbow, tube with valve and filter from Don at AirFlow Specialities (864-576-4512) who also overhauled my servo. I have heard that you can have the servo come straight down from the sump, attach it to a tee-tube that fits into the standard scoop with the front open and the rear to a filter for alternate air. My -B1A has a conical mount and there was no problem mounting the engine. I am using an Airwolf remote oil filter and dual electronic ignition from Jeff Rose (423-622-8825). I haven't run the engine yet, but I'm close. Hope this helps....the sumps with down or front facing intakes are getting hard to find. You could also have yours reworked to make it the way you want, but I was quoted a price of $450. You may be able to fine another sump for less than that or perhaps can trade a Cozy or Velocity guy for one. Dick Steffens RV-6 North Carolina ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david_fried(at)smtpgwy.dehavilland.ca
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Subject: Shock mounted gyros
To provide a measure of protection for my gyroscopes, I am going to mount them on a separate panel isolated from the main panel by a number of rubber isolators. These are available from ACSS and look like small rubber cylinders with smaller threaded rods projecting out of the ends (Lord). To keep things neat I will group six 3.125 instruments on this panel. What is the best way to apply loads to these? Tension/compression, shear or some combination. I have seen Tony's articles and would like to hear what this group has tried before deciding. David Fried ddebt(at)pathcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Subject: Re: Barnard Aircraft Components
> >Has anyone out there used the BAC fastbuild wing kit option from Vans'? I > >would appreciate any comments from anyone who has tried it. > > Bob, If you can afford it, you won't be disappointed. It's about as close to perfect as you can get. Every single thing about it looks great. All your wing skeleton is ready to rivet, including the flaps, tanks, and ailerons. Just hang it on the jig, prime as you see fit, and bang it together. Aloha, Russ Werner Maui Hawaii USA mailto:russ(at)maui.net sends to me mailto:RV-List(at)matronics.com sends to the RV List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Subject: Re: Tip-Up Canopy
<< Reason: you cannot jettison the tip-up in flight. >> Has anyone ever tested the jettison device in flight? Someone that has one of those cracked canopys might want to volunteer. I personally plan on carrying an ax and forgeting to install the pull handle. I'll still make the hindge pins pullable but not by the jettison handle. Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Subject: Re: First Flight
>Slow flight at 60 knots was steady as a rock even in 30 degree >bank turns. On one upwind leg I had less than 30 knots ground speed. It was >quite a different sensation. > Jim: CONGRATS!! This is one of the features of the RV series of airplanes that makes the most sense: flys fast, flys slow. Landing at 45 mph when you hadn't planed on landing yet is VASTLY different than landing (say, a glass rocket) at 75-80mph. A SUPER Cub!! Thanks, Van, for such a great design. Michael RV-4 232 SQ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Subject: Re: OV protection
<< HOWEVER . . . drop me an SASE with "CROWBAR OV" marked on the back and I'll send you thestuff that describes parts, schematic and adjustment procedures. >> Sorry Bob but I can't find your address. And I need all the protection I can get, OV and otherwise. Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: -6a wing attach question
I'm building a -6a, and I just fit my wings to my fuselage this last weekend. While squaring up the wings, it was obvious that the right wing rear spar attach point on bulkhead f-605 was contacting the flanges of the most inboard rib, creating a swept forward condition.(Does that make sense?) So, I wound up trimming a 1/4" off of the f-604 fittings and a 1/4" off of the rear spar. I spent hours checking and re-checking the measurements making sure that the wing was square and the angle of incidence was correct. So I drilled the rear spar attach points, and reamed them out to the correct dimensions. Cool, it's looking like an airplane! Now the problem. When I attached the right flap, it will only retract about half way before the fl-606b plate contacts the side of the fuselage. The left flap mounted fine, it's got about a 1/4" clearance between it and the fuselage. I've spent two days checking and re-checking all of my measurements. The wing is square with the fuselage, the fuselage bulkheads are square. So, I removed the fl-606b & c pieces assuming that I could fabricate new ones that would clear the fuselage. I installed the flap, and with it fully retracted, it doesn't appear that there will be enough clearance for this solution either. I've decided to replace the piano hinge on the flap, which will allow me to move the whole flap outboard providing the proper clearance. Now, what bothers me is that I can't find the error that caused the forward sweep of the right wing in the first place. Have other builders had a similar problem? Or is it common to have to make adjustments like this as the project comes together? I searched the archives, but couldn't find any references to a similar problem. Mark LaBoyteaux RV-6a N106RV tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Strobes - fact and fiction
>>>I just helped a friend install Whelens on a LongEZ. The >>>Whelen book said these exact things. Use the strobes >>>regularly or the capacitor may need to be reformed. >>>Instructions are included for reforming. Larry, can you quote us the specific instructions that Whelen publishes for "reforming" >>I have read the same thing. I think it even says this in the >>owners manual or warrenty info you get with your strobes. >> I had mine stored for about 3 yrs and they still worked OK so I >>don't think it is a major problem. >>This is the classic case of 'use it or loose it'. > Where did you get your facts for this piece of information? I have a set of > new Whelan's that won't be used for a while yet. I've never heard of this. > Maybe Bob Nuckolls would care to comment? Sure. This is a piece of hagar-lore that has been fertilized too much. Strobe light systems in airplanes and cameras are brothers. They utilize a hollow tube filled with xenon gas and fitted with electrodes at each end of the tube. A high (300-500 volt) dc potential is placed on the two electrodes. A third electrode is not even stuck through the glass, it's simply a wire or band wound around the outside of the glass. The third electrode is "spiked" with a 2,000 to 5,000 volt pulse (from a tiny coil that acts like an ignition coil for a VERY small engine) the xenon gas is driven into conduction and begins to emit an intense, white (acually multi- colored) light. The ENERGY in that flash of light is determined by the size of an electrolytic capacitor and the voltage to which it is charged. The general equation for energy in a capacitance storage system is C*E*E/2=J where C is capacitance in Farads, E is volts and J is watt-seconds or Joules. Let's say we're going to charge a 100 microFarad capacitor to 330 volts. 330 squared times 100 times 10 to the minus 6th power divided by 2 is 5.45 Joules. If the capacitor is allowed to charge completely between flashes -AND- if the tube is in good shape, one may expect a 5 joule flash per ignition. Further, if one wished to get 10 joules per flash, either the size of the capacitor has to be doubled -OR- the voltage must be raised by about 40%. Electrolytic capacitors have been around for about 60 years. Back in the vacuum tube days, all electronic devices required elevated voltages in the 100 to 300 volt range and capacitors with high voltage ratings were very common for power supply hum filtering. Nowadays, photoflash systems are one of the very few systems that still use this venerable technology. The capacitors are formed by winding two long, thin strips of alluminum up in a jelly-roll like configuration with a chemical coating between the layers. When the assembly is complete, a voltage is applied which causes chemical changes to take place making one connection (+) and the other (-) with respect to applied voltage. The chemistry also becomes the media in which electrons are stored. It is true that LONG periods of inactivity should be avoided for this chemistry to achieve and maintain peak performance. Back in my early amateur radio days, it was not uncommon to find an old capacitor whos value had dropped by 50% or more due to inactivity. Further, it's leakage (losses) current went up. The fix was to apply rated voltage to the capacitor through a large (100,000 ohm resistor) for up to a day. The resistor would limit current flow while the power supply gently stirred the chemistry back to life. In a period of time ranging from hours to days, the capacitor's leakage will have gone down and it's capacitance would be up. Modern electrolytics have a "shelf life" rated in years. When I fire up a stobe system who's vintage and utilization are unknown, I'll run some quick leakage checks on the capacitors just to be sure they're not going to overheat. Then, I might cycle the strobe system up with low bus voltage (9-10 volts) for a few hours and then raise it up to normal over the next four or five hours. This is an EXTREME measure that I've seldom had to apply. For the most part, if I know a strobe system has been inactive for many years . . . I'll simply replace the capacitors. They're probably dried somewhat and they DO have a service/ storage life limit. For a new system to require monthly attention is absurd. If a manufacturer recommends this, you need to write and question their capacitor source. I suspect it's easier to predict the worst and require the most of customers for care and feeding of their product - it may help at warranty adjustment time but if I were building stobe systems, I'd use a good quality photo flash capacitor and ask my customers to put their system into service within two years. Any new system should come out of the starting gate just fine from a storage period of 2 years. If one measures the light output from a strobe system that's been in storage, the light output may be down a few percent but it will recover nicely in the first few hours of usage. Hope this helps chase a few "gremlins" from the workshop. Regards, Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= 72770.552ompuserve.com http:\\www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: jddyess(at)crystal.cirrus.com (J D Dyess)
Subject: GYROS AND AEROBATICS
Talked to an RV-4 driver the other day. Asked him how he prevents damaging his gyros when doing aerobatics. His answer was that they are damaged! There must be a better way. Anybody installing/using "cageable" gyros out there? How much more does this equipment cost? J.D. Dyess (ordering -8 tail March) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com>
Subject: Re: Navaid Devices
Chris, mine is mounted but I have not flown yet. I mounted the servo under the passenger seat, on a flat piece of aluminum, between the two ribs, and use some angle to attach it to the ribs. The position is a bit critical, as the control column has to have a full range of movement. This range is hard to judge until you have the controls all mounted. If you mount it temporarily ,and finalize it later, it works out well. John- Ready to fly in a month (or two) (or three) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Barnard Aircraft Components
aol.com!DougMel(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > Has anyone out there used the BAC fastbuild wing kit option from Vans'? I > would appreciate any comments from anyone who has tried it. > > DougMel(at)aol.com > getting ready to order wingkitDoug, With the new prepunched wing kits, most of the time saved with Barnard's fastbuild kit is eliminated. I had ordered it at first, but Ken at Van's pretty much talked me out of it. I saved a lot of money and don't regret not ordering it. Ed Cole RV6A Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue)
Subject: Re: Strobes - fact and fiction
> >>>>I just helped a friend install Whelens on a LongEZ. The >>>>Whelen book said these exact things. Use the strobes >>>>regularly or the capacitor may need to be reformed. >>>>Instructions are included for reforming. > > Larry, can you quote us the specific instructions that > Whelen publishes for "reforming" > I hate to bother my buddy for the sheet right when he is in the process of readying for a first flight, but my memory tells me it involved something similar to what you mentioned. Running the system at a reduced supply voltage for a while. Incidently his system had been stored for a few years and operation of one of the strobes was intermittent when we fired it up. Hopefully it will improve with use. Larry RV-6 Working on tail Pacer N8025D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Bubba Joe <Bubbajoe(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming IO-360 Engines
Wallace R. Penney wrote: > > > > > Wallace Penney flying RV-3 C-GPNY Toronto wallyp(at)interlog.com W.P. go to http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/engines...this guy has all the explaination you'll ever need on lyc's..It's a great page. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Strobes - fact and fiction
> > Where did you get your facts for this piece of information? I have a set of > > new Whelan's that won't be used for a while yet. I've never heard of this. > > Maybe Bob Nuckolls would care to comment? > > Sure. This is a piece of hagar-lore that has been fertilized too much. [snip] > For a new system to require monthly attention is absurd. If a manufacturer > recommends this, you need to write and question their capacitor source. [snip snip] My Whelen strobe system came with a separate sheet of paper that said you need to run the strobes periodically, and that if they haven't been run in more than a year they should be brought up slowly, with low voltage levels at first. This supports Bob's point that "regularly" doesn't necessarily mean _monthly_..... But Technical mumbo-jumbo aside, figure it's easy enough to hook em to a battery every 6 months or so till I get the stinkin' plane done, if for no other reason that it's kinda neat! Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: GYROS AND AEROBATICS
> >Talked to an RV-4 driver the other day. Asked him how he prevents >damaging his gyros when doing aerobatics. His answer was that they >are damaged! > >There must be a better way. Anybody installing/using "cageable" >gyros out there? How much more does this equipment cost? > >J.D. Dyess (ordering -8 tail March) > This should stir the pot up again . I'm having the same questions as I plan my panel. I know some pilots claiming 10+ years on gyros doing smooth/low "g" aerobatics (the kind I like to do). No "snap" stuff. Not convinced, I researched "cageable" gyros. Turns out cageable does not mean locking the gyro in place, it simply gives you the capability of resetting the gyro *after* it has tumbled from aerobatics. No protection to the gyro. Electronic "gyros" using accelerometers seem the best solution, but are prohibitively expensive at this time. Anybody have some first hand, been there, experience? Is a removable sub-panel the ticket? Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker (last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Address?
Can anyone tell me the address for donating some money for the rv-list upkeep? I had it, but I print so much of this stuff I can never find what I'm looking for..Thanks! Also, Does anyone know the percentage you deduct for inefficiency when figuring speeds with different props? I read where one guy with a -4 and 0-320 was running a 68x68 wood prop at 190 mph. The way I figure it, at 100% efficiency, he would have to be turning 2950 RPM. Is that correct? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: gear leg air leak; ATC designator
> ... The FAR's specifically state > that we should identify ourselves as experimental when communicating > with a control tower at a controled field. The FAR's do not specifically > state that we need to identify ourselves as experimental to ATC. Well darned if you aren't right, Fred! At least as far as I can find, the only thing that's in the FARs is the following: Sec. 91.319 Aircraft having experimental certificates: Operating limitations. .... (d) Each person operating an aircraft that has an experimental certificate shall-- .... (3) Notify the control tower of the experimental nature of the aircraft when operating the aircraft into or out of airports with operating control towers. I wonder why that is -- seems like they'd either want controllers (tower or whover) to know, or not. I wonder why they specifically call out tower controllers? Any controller types out there care to comment? Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: GYROS AND AEROBATICS
Date: Feb 20, 1997
This has been discussed many times on the list. I think the consensus is to always leave the gyros ON. If they are off, they will get hammered against the stops and do more damage. The 'cageing' will only help reset them if they tumble. It does not 'lock' them during acro. I think one of the notes quoted Bill Kershner (?sp), the famous instructor/writer, as having flown his 152 Aerobat for years with the same set of gyros and it had a lot of aerobatic time on it. Herman > > Talked to an RV-4 driver the other day. Asked him how he prevents > damaging his gyros when doing aerobatics. His answer was that they > are damaged! > > There must be a better way. Anybody installing/using "cageable" > gyros out there? How much more does this equipment cost? > > J.D. Dyess (ordering -8 tail March) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Superior O-360
For all you folks keeping your eye on alternative engines, today I got an update from Gary Greenwood, Technical Rep at Superior Air Parts (manufacturer of the Millenium cylinders and other PMA parts). As you may be aware, they are working on a "copy" of the Lycoming O-360-A1A which they would sell as a kit - a box of new, certified parts that the customer and/or his A&P assembles. At Oshkosh 96 they displayed a raw crankshaft forging and crankcase casting. They told me then they planned to test run the engine for certification by the end of 96 and sell the kits by mid-97. Gary told me today this has been pushed back and they now expect to run the certification tests this summer and should be selling kits by Nov/Dec 97. Most of the parts are already approved and are available. I believe the crank and case are the only remaining hurdles. The kit would include everything needed to assemble a "Lycoming" O-360-A1A except the oil sump, accessory housing, and connecting rods. They aren't making those parts, he said, because they are readily available from other sources at reasonable prices. I didn't ask, but I assume they also won't supply accessories like starter, carb, etc. The price is expected to be about $9,500. Van's current price for a Lyc O-360-A1A is $19,300. Anyone know off-hand what the costs are for the non-included parts? If anyone wants to contact Gary: Phone: 800-487-4884 E-mail: sapi(at)airmail.net Bob Reiff RV-4 in (slow) progress ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Subject: Re: Address?
>-------------- > >Can anyone tell me the address for donating some money for the rv-list >upkeep? I had it, but I print so much of this stuff I can never find >what I'm looking for..Thanks! RV-List Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore CA, 94551-0347 Thank you! Matt -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Re: GYROS AND AEROBATICS
r.acker wrote: > > > > > >Talked to an RV-4 driver the other day. Asked him how he prevents > >damaging his gyros when doing aerobatics. His answer was that they > >are damaged! > > > >There must be a better way. Anybody installing/using "cageable" > >gyros out there? How much more does this equipment cost? > > > >J.D. Dyess (ordering -8 tail March) > > > > This should stir the pot up again . > > I'm having the same questions as I plan my panel. I know some pilots > claiming 10+ years on gyros doing smooth/low "g" aerobatics (the kind I like > to do). No "snap" stuff. > > Not convinced, I researched "cageable" gyros. Turns out cageable does not > mean locking the gyro in place, it simply gives you the capability of > resetting the gyro *after* it has tumbled from aerobatics. No protection to > the gyro. > > Electronic "gyros" using accelerometers seem the best solution, but are > prohibitively expensive at this time. > > Anybody have some first hand, been there, experience? Is a removable > sub-panel the ticket? > > Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q project: > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rob_acker > (last update 12/23/96 - Oshkosh '96 RV pictures) I've read that anyone doing serious stuff uses removable sub-panels for gyro equipment. (An old flying mag. article, I believe. Don't know which issue.) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Re: Navaid Devices
Dr John Cocker wrote: > > > Chris, mine is mounted but I have not flown yet. > I mounted the servo under the passenger seat, on a flat piece of aluminum, > between the two ribs, and use some angle to attach it to the ribs. > The position is a bit critical, as the control column has to have a full > range of movement. This range is hard to judge until you have the controls > all mounted. > If you mount it temporarily ,and finalize it later, it works out well. > John- Ready to fly in a month (or two) (or three) Can you tell me the cost of this Navaid, and the necessary associated equipment? Thanks, alot. Michael C. Lott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allan W. Mojzisik" <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Strobes - fact and fiction
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Hey Bob, Thanks for -not- taking it to NASA. I knew you would have a great lesson for us all. I am still working on arrangements for a midwest seminar. Al (N162NV) Res. Working on Emp. Subject: RV-List: Strobes - fact and fiction I wrote: Where did you get your facts for this piece of information? Maybe Bob Nuckolls would care to comment? Bob wrote: Sure. This is a piece of hagar-lore that has been fertilized too much. etc......................... Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(CH"`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`"0!```!````# ````,``# %````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```$D`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!R=BUL:7-T0&UA=')O M;FEC``,P`0```!8```!R=BUL:7-T0&UA=')O;FEC.@$````"`?8/`0````0````````%.#`' ``0```"@```!213H@4E8M3&ES=#H@4W1R;V)E# $````%````4TU44 `````>`!\,`0```!,```!P6YE="YN970```,`!A#1N)'<`P`'$*(!```>``@0`0```&4```!(15E" M3T(L5$A!3DM31D]2+4Y/5"U404M)3D=)5%1/3D%304E+3D5764]55T]53$1( M059%04=214%43$534T].1D]255-!3$Q)04U35$E,3%=/4DM)3D=/3D%24D%. M1T5-14Y4``````(!"1 !````U0(``-$"```J!0``3%I&=6#8^27_``H!#P(5 M`J@%ZP*#`% "\@D"`&-H"L!S970R-P8`!L,"@S(#Q0(`<')"<1'B M=P>0!4 1L"C0;@K (J O))8J7RMO+']!`R @*(!.,38R3E8I!_ +!Y BH%BA7AC4!.@KA,]LT MQE)63"U,! `UH5-T`V!B^P>1(7!F`- %0 !P([ RT)TU$&D"("^E,9TS-AZW MQQ?1"_(TQCT]/CCWQ M(C#U(D!M/R!H(J!+3Q]G+(+Y$From: "Allan W. Mojzisik" <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Address?
Date: Feb 20, 1997
Michael, The address is: Matt G Dralle RV-List Netathon P.O. Box 347 Livermore, CA. 94551 Subject: RV-List: Address? RV-List Donation. Can anyone tell me the address for donating some money for the rv-list upkeep? I had it, but I print so much of this stuff I can never find what I'm looking for..Thanks! begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(A8"`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`"0!```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```$D`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!R=BUL:7-T0&UA=')O M;FEC``,P`0```!8```!R=BUL:7-T0&UA=')O;FEC.@$````"`?8/`0````0````````#-#`' ``0```!8` M``!213H@4E8M3&ES=#H@061D`!X,`0````4```!33510`````!X`'PP!```` M$P```'!R;V)E)S=&5M`H,S=Q+,!Q,"@S01!1-3#]]F=C4"Y!5%?0J ",\)V3OQ&8DQ M,C@*(QMA`H *@8,-L0M@;F.8@T$$@1#\DZ-9$ M`B AL&D"("XM+RXS/#,V+Z<7T0OR,*8]/48^).<'@7-A9R 0<,)O$\%D(&)Y M(- 9(*$"0&UC0&0AL&$3P,D*P"YN$< @*!Z5+'#5*-!,/+$I'QQ#`Y$`4PK1BQ`$YP``,`$! ``````P`1$ $```! M```#T``0````4```!213H@`````/_[ ` end ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: Fuel lube
RVers, The last of the fuel lube shipments went into the mail yesterday---15 containers--- put a big dent in a new can. There is now enough fuel lube in the hands of RV builders to do the whole fleet. I still have enough left to do 3 or 4 cans. (Gotta remember to save a can for myself.) If it works out, maybe you guys could pass around your leftover fuel lube to other builders when you are done. I think I got everyone who contacted me taken care of. If you don't receive the lube in a week or so, let me know. Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSkinner(at)navix.net
Date: Feb 20, 1997
________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSkinner(at)navix.net
Date: Feb 20, 1997
________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSkinner(at)navix.net
Date: Feb 20, 1997
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: -6a wing attach question
From: ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
Date: Feb 21, 1997
> So, I removed the fl-606b & c pieces assuming that >I could fabricate new ones that would clear the fuselage. I installed >the flap, and with it fully retracted, it doesn't appear that there will >be enough clearance for this solution either. I've decided to replace >the piano hinge on the flap, which will allow me to move the whole flap >outboard providing the proper clearance. Hmm. I had some forward sweep problem too. I had to cut about 1/8-1/4 off of the rear spars and also the attach bracket. I purposely made these pieces just a skooch longer because of horror stories from people who ended up too short. However, I can't see why the attach pieces on the flap should interfere. You mention moving the whole flap outboard, how can you do that without interfering with the aileron? The out board bracket of the aileron is in a fixed position due to the end wing rib so unless the end rib is too far inboard I don't see how the aileron/flap could be too far inboard. Maybe your aileron is too wide? Good luck, Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 21, 1997
Subject: Re: GYROS AND AEROBATICS
J.D., I initially equipped my six with a standard gyro panel, i.e. vacuum horizon and D.G. and electric turn coordinator. I perform a moderate amount of sport aerobatics, and have found that the vacuum horizon seems the most susceptible to damage from aerobatics. After 400 hours and 2 Gyro horizon overhauls later I had had enough. The D.G. didn,t seem to mind the aerobatics too much, although it is precessing more than it used to, although well within tolerable limits. I replaced my turn coordinator with a navaid autopilot, and I just pull the C.B. when I feel the need. Regarding the Gyro Horizon, I installed a Sigma-Tek electric cageable unit with an on off switch. Although quite a bit more expensive than a vacuum unit, it serves my purpose. Shop around and you might get a good deal on a used unit. Another less expensive possibility is to install some sort of vacuum "on off valve". Good luck Bill Mahoney RV-6 N747W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 1997
From: Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Skin Stiffeners / where are you?
Hi all, Just recently there was a thread regarding the use of materials to eliminate oil-canning. One of the better techniques was to use a plastic strip that glued onto the inside surface of the wing. I'm trying to locate the source of that material and the exact name of it but I can't seem to find it within the archives. where are you? Bob Fritz ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 1997
From: Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: Superior O-360
Hi Bob, All the parts for a new O-360 for under $10,000!!!!!!! No flames here, I love the idea. But that means that if the certified parts can be sold for $9500 and the assembled engine costs $19,300, then the cost to assemble an engine at Lycoming is about $10,000. Where did they burn that much money? Cheers, Bob Fritz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: teetime(at)flinthills.com
Date: Feb 21, 1997
Subject: Re: lightweight filler
> >aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com wrote: >> >> >> >> << Poly Fiber's "Superlight Epoxy Filler >> >> Sounds like good stuff, Dave. How about a source? >> >I used this filler for blending the canopy to the forward skins over a >fiberglass skirt. In its favor, it is REALLY sticky so it has few >adherence problems. It is also convenient to use. > >BUT!!!! About one month after I used it, I saw small yellow >"greasy-looking" areas appearing all over. It is probably unmixed resin >diffusing from down deep. Believe me - I thought that I mixed the heck >out of the components before applying. It is VERY viscous material and >therefore tiring to mix, but if you are going to use it - mix it well, >then mix it again, then keep on mixing it. > I found that when mixing stuff like proseal, it was much better if you put something in a drill like a bit with something flat on it ( like a handle on a can opener - the old style)and just mix like the wife does when shes' mixing potatoes. Then your hands don't get worn out. Tim Sweemer RV 4 Wings > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DkSJC(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 21, 1997
Subject: Re: RV4 parts For Sale
<< Due to circumstances, I have had to put my RV4 parts up for sale. I have a 1992 tail kit about 60% completed, a 1992 wing kit not started, and updated plans and manual. I am asking $ 3,500.00 for all. Thanks, Jim Lewman lewman(at)wt.net 281-859-7624 Houston, Texas >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 1997
From: Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: -6a wing attach question
I believe that I've found my problem. Part of it's in the flap, and part of it's in the wing. Apparently, the trailing edge of the inboard rib in the flap is angled inward by 1/8" too much. I bought the pre-fabricated spar for my wings, and during assembly, I noticed that the pre-drilled holes for the ribs were off by about 1/8". Van's and I both agreed that this wasn't a problem. However, I didn't take this into account when I layed out the rib spacing for the rear spar. So, this caused the trailing edge of the main ribs and rear spar to shift inboard. I noticed this when I layed the main wing skins in place, but my plumb bobs said the wing was square so I didn't worry about it. I've managed to solve the problem by making new FL-606b & c pieces that provide enough clearance between the fuselage and flap. Problem solved. Thanks for the replys, they helped me look at it from different direction. Mark LaBoyteaux tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 1997
From: John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel lube
> The last of the fuel lube shipments went into the mail yesterday---15 >containers--- put a big dent in a new can. Bob: If you still have a thimble full left, I would like to hav it. I am traveling this week, but will mail you a check as soon as I get home.

February 10, 1997 - February 21, 1997

RV-Archive.digest.vol-cm