RV-Archive.digest.vol-co
March 03, 1997 - March 13, 1997
> and his RV4 seat back. He is a fairly light person and after a few hours of
> flying he found his seatback supports( the eighth inch angle running up and
> down the sides) bent in a curved shape. The only thing he could atribute this
> to, was the temp that the powder coating was curred at somehow affected the
> temper of the aluminum.Some people believe that if you have cracks they will
> not show up on the surface. I do not agree I believe if you use a light color
> such as white or gray the cracks will show up. They should appear in the form
> of a thin dark colored line.
> Ryan
> RV4131RB(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement |
Listers: Those of you flying (or not): What was your antenna placement;
specifically the distance of your TRANSPONDER antenna from your COM antenna,
if you have them belly-mounted. I see in the archives that 3 feet is the
recommended distance, but how do things work out in the real world. I know
the TPX needs to be belly mounted and wonder how the two COM/TPX interfere
with each others' signals.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Hi all,
I'm deep into canopy issues on my sliding canopy 6A. Amongst all the little
brain teasers I have a little clearance problem with the canopy latch. With
the handle fitted it is quite a tug to get the latch closed and when it is
in the closed position there is about nil clearance between the roll bar and
the front hoop of the sliding canopy frame. There is certainly not enough
room to put any kind of weather proofing material between the frame and the
roll bar. I wondered whether this was going to be an issue down the
track...... should I leave the tight clearance or relieve the inside edge of
the latch a little?
Thanks for your suggestions.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pnuematic Squeezer - Action Air Parts, Inc. |
Cecil T Hatfield wrote:
>
>
> Eric I've been trying to E-mail you direct at ERIC_BARNS(at)tandem.com and
> it doesn't go through.
>
> Cecil Hatfield
> cecilth(at)juno.comCecil
Try BARNES...you left out the "E"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spray gun QUESTION? |
stan burchett wrote:
>
>
> Rechargeable spray guns sound ideal for priming...portability, no clean-up,
> always ready. Just recharge/refill as needed. Harbor Freight has a 1 qt.
> brass for $40. Has anyone tried these that knows a down side?
> Stan from Yorktown,VA -6A
Don't bother, They don't work at all. Ditto for the siphon/paper cup gun.
Buy a $25.00 auto touch up gun and be done with it.
Ed Cole RV6A 24430
________________________________________________________________________________
<c=US%a=_%p=msft%l=RED-67-MSG-970302035502Z-17516@INET-04-IMC.microsoft.co
m>
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Mike (and rv-list):
>Speaking of this, what is the general consensus of what kind of recent and
>total experience it takes to fly one of these? Since I spend most of my
>free time building I'm sure that if I don't plan to have a set # of total,
>high performance, and tailwheel hours by the time my plane is ready I'll
>have close to none.
If you have 10 recent hours in a Champ or Citabria and are comfortable
making 3-point landings, then I'd say you are fine. Note I said
comfortable - every landing doesn't have to be a greaser.
When I sold my Bonanza and started building my RV-6, I quickly discovered
I'd go nuts if I did not have *something* to fly. I then figured that if I
was going to be renting airplanes, I might as well be renting taildraggers.
I've flown nothing else for a little over a year.
best regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
> The instructions say: to use a level and set the top rib 1.5 inches
> from vertical from the rib spar junction.
> I note that the spar is not level when mounted to the level jig...ok.
> Maybe. The rib is notched at the tip...
> The drawings say: 1.5 inches from the perpendicular from the end of the
> spar to the front end of the top rib. The difference is perpendicular
> and the junction point.
I'm trying to think back a year... I think I considered two methods, but
I'm not sure which I picked.
Method one: fit it to match the skin.
Method two: are you *sure* the drawings don't give you an angle that you
can use in a protractor? If not, draw it out full scale and then set your
protractor or angle-copy-tool to the proper angle.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy latch |
Re the sliding canopy latch, clearance for weather seal, etc.
I was talking about this to Scott McDaniels (Van's prototype tech)
last Saturday and an interesting point he brought up was that once the
water gets in underneath the fairing, it's almost impossible to have a
good enough weather seal that the water won't find some little gap and
leak through somewhere. For this reason he recommended not using any
weather seal (other than the fairing itself), and says he just assumes
it'll leak when it gets rained on on the ground and always uses a
canopy cover. I think a weather seal might still be of some help in
keeping wind out, but I guess this depends on how tight your fairing
fits.
Regarding the too-snug fit: One thing I did was to grind about 3/32"
off of the front of the WD-644s which allowed the bottom of the frame
to be that much closer to the roll bar when it's closed, making the
gap more uniform. It also results in the top of the frame not having
to be pulled forward against the bottom as much, so it makes it a
little less "snug" (feels just right to me however!) I know a guy who
relieved it enough to where the nylon roller contacted the roll bar
before the weldment did -- I didn't go quite this far, but it seems to
have worked well for him.
I don't see any reason NOT to relieve the inside edge of the latch if
it is still too tight. Worst case is you have to buy or make a new
one, and it's a pretty cheap part.
Feel free to email me directly if you have any other questions on
the sliding canopy -- sounds like I'm just a little ahead of
you. (Man that sliding canopy's a bear, isn't it!)
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
> Awhile back, we got to see
>what happens when a jack goes through the wing of a Bonanza. Not a pretty
>sight.
A few years ago, I owned a V35 Bonanza, and I still remember my first
experience putting the airplane up on jacks and doing the gear retraction
test (I always did the 'owner-assisted annual' thing). My heart was really
pounding.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement |
>Listers: Those of you flying (or not): What was your antenna placement;
>specifically the distance of your TRANSPONDER antenna from your COM antenna,
>if you have them belly-mounted. I see in the archives that 3 feet is the
>recommended distance, but how do things work out in the real world. I know
>the TPX needs to be belly mounted and wonder how the two COM/TPX interfere
>with each others' signals.
Here's what the Bendix/King KT76A Installation Manual has to say:
"Avoid mounting the antenna within three feet of the ADF sense antenna or
any COMM antenna and six feet from the transponder to the DME antenna."
Also, here's what it says about coax lengths:
"To prevent RF interference, the antenna must be physically mounted a
minimum distance of three feet from the KT76A/78A".
"RG-142 or equivalent coaxial cable is normally used on installations
having a cable run of ten feet or less. For cable runs from nine to 17.5
feet, use low loss antenna installation kit (P/N 505-01253-0002)."
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shadowed Today By a Berkut Canard - RV6A pulled a |
Top Gun Maneuver
>On a different note today, I took off behind a Mooney 201, and an
>experimental sidewinder. These were both friends of mine and we were racing
>to an airport for lunch. My RV6A guickly went by both in climb and got
>considerably ahead. After about 10 minutes, the Mooney 201 went by me slowly
>(much slower than the Berkut) , and the sidewinder was a little behind.
It is interesting how little difference the higher speed actually makes.
Last weekend a gaggle of us flew from Deer Valley Airport in Phoenix to
Fla-Bob in Riverside California. Our flight of two RV-6's took off first.
We turned left to make a westward downwind departure and when we were
midfield, the second flight, consisting of a Glasair III and a Lancair took
off. So we were maybe two minutes ahead of them departing Phoenix Arizona.
We (in the RV-6's) were well beyond the Colorado river by the time the
'plastic flight' overtook us. They landed at Fla-Bob less that 2 minutes
before we did.
Best REgards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines - Diesels |
Wow, cheaper fuel, easier controls, fewer parts, lighter weight, etc, etc., A
diesel does sound like a great set-up as an alternative to LyCon selling a
1940's engine for outrageous sums of bucks.
Having gone to the Zoche site referenced in the Zoche letter it appears that
this is the engine we've been waiting for. The press clippings they included
sure write it up to look like the death knell for LyCon.
..............however..............
The write-ups are dated 1993 and talk about how this will be out next year but
the factory won't let the reviewer have one to install in his airplane.
............but then again..........
I'm hoping to be needing an engine in early 1998 so I've written them an e-mail
asking to be kept apprised.
HEY LYCOMING!!!
ARE YOU LISTENING?
CAN YOU SAY "TOYOTA" IN THE SAME BREATH WITH "GM" AND NOT WORRY ABOUT YOUR 401K?
Bob Fritz
scheming and dreaming
Message text written by Bill Watson
> as with any leading edge technology, precise schedules are difficult to
predict. Still, we do not anticipate to sell engines during 1997.<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net |
Rob, The price of $1450 Was obtained from the Wag-Aero 1997 catalog that a
friend recently gave to me. The reconditioned units go for $1176. Since this
is the first time I have ever heard of one of these units, I find it hard to
believe that too many of them have been sold so why are Wag and others
offering reconditioned units?
The radio has everything that I could desire at a reasonable price but I
wonder about the "track record" or reliability because of the reconditioned
units available. If it were a King or Narco unit, I could understand a lot
of reconditioned units being available. I am not worried about radio failure
since I will be flying with handheld nav/com and GPS backups but I do not
want to spend a lot of money on something that will be in the shop quite often.
I would be interested in seeing the "consumer reports" that you have. I will
not be purchasing anything before Sun & Fun but will definately be in the
market there. In a related note, I have been keeping up with some of your
posts on electronic engine monitoring systems. What is your opinion of the
Grand Rapids Technology unit?
I don't want to trash up the net with this but I think some other people may
want to jump in on this one.
John Henley (j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net)
RV6 standing on it's own legs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Hose assembly mandrel |
George Orndorff's systems video shows a mandrel used for assembling
aeroquip hoses. The video mentions that instructions for making the
mandrel were in Sport Aviation (1994?). Does anybody know what issue
had the article? ACS wants about $40 per mandrel.
Thanks,
Tim Making wing fairings, fuel line plumbing.
Can't wait to get the wings OFF so I can move around the garage
again!!!
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spray gun QUESTION? |
>
>
> Rechargeable spray guns sound ideal for priming...portability, no clean-up,
> always ready. Just recharge/refill as needed. Harbor Freight has a 1 qt.
> brass for $40. Has anyone tried these that knows a down side?
> Stan from Yorktown,VA -6A
AARGH, he said pr*%#r!!!
I've been very happy with the Badger air brush. Blows air over a
venturi opening OUTSIDE of the gun to draw paint or pr*^#r, so
there's virtually no cleanup required. Cost about $15 from Hobby
Lobby or similar artsy/craftsy place. Uses canned compressed air, or
there's a compressor attachment (I use it). Holds about 2 oz of
paint.
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines - Diesels |
>Having gone to the Zoche site referenced in the Zoche letter it appears that
>this is the engine we've been waiting for. The press clippings they included
>sure write it up to look like the death knell for LyCon.
> as with any leading edge technology, precise schedules are difficult to
>predict. Still, we do not anticipate to sell engines during 1997.
Bob:
I've been reading Zoche press releases since hector was a pup. They have
been a year away from delivering engines for as far back as I can remember.
You had better have a "Plan B" for '98. Looks like a great engine
whenever................
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
If you're curious, some pictures of RV-8 spars are at:
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/wings.html
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy latch |
Leave it tight. I did and my canopy is as tight as a tick. I didn't need
any seal material. There is no leakage anywhere, front, sides or rear. You
can always file a bit away later if needed. I found that the tightness in
mine lessened as time went on. I can open and close my canopy easily with
one hand from inside or outside.
Jim Cone RV-6A Flying!!!
jaemscone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
CAN ANY OF YOU GUYS HELP ME FIND AN RV-4? UP TO 40K. AM GOING TO SUN N FUN,
HOPE TO FIND ONE THERE IF NOT BEFORE. E-MAIL MAlexan533, OR FAX 503-838-3834.
OREGON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy latch |
>
>Hi all,
>
>I'm deep into canopy issues on my sliding canopy 6A. Amongst all the little
>brain teasers I have a little clearance problem with the canopy latch. With
>the handle fitted it is quite a tug to get the latch closed and when it is
>in the closed position there is about nil clearance between the roll bar and
>the front hoop of the sliding canopy frame. There is certainly not enough
>room to put any kind of weather proofing material between the frame and the
>roll bar. I wondered whether this was going to be an issue down the
>track...... should I leave the tight clearance or relieve the inside edge of
>the latch a little?
>
>Thanks for your suggestions.
>
>Leo Davies
>
>leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
Leo, Relieve the latch. As soon as you get it in the "down-under' sun,
things will expand enough that the canopy may be closed until the sun goes
down and things cool down (about sunrise) or you may not be able to latch
the canopy closed. The weatherstrip will not go between the metal parts,
but will seal the plexi. Bill
Bill N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over
1000 RV flying hours. RV-4-180 soon.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
<< George Orndorff's systems video shows a mandrel used for assembling
aeroquip hoses. The video mentions that instructions for making the
mandrel were in Sport Aviation (1994?). Does anybody know what issue
had the article? ACS wants about $40 per mandrel. >>
Tim-
I used the aluminum Mandrel-less fittings, AQP hose and Firesleeve from
Skybolt Aeromotive in FL. They go together real easily and pressure tested
fine. The barbs are smoothed so no flaps get gouged out of the hose wall. I
used the carbide cutoff wheel to girdle the S/S shielding and make nice cuts.
Then a short stint on the sander to smooth the strands and push up into the
nut. They have aluminum vice jaws too. The AQP elastomer holds up to fuels
better than 601. See the Yeller Pages for their phone number.
Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)world.std.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
> ACS wants about $40 per mandrel.
Wicks carries one-piece mandrels for $16.41. They
have them in sizes 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8, according to their
1996 catalog. The part numbers are: MT2701-x, where x
is the size you want. So a #4 is MT2701-4. Give them
a call at 800-221-9425.
Cheryl Sanchez
csanchez(at)world.std.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bpboyd(at)cdsnet.net (Bruce Boyd) |
Hello Folks,
I am selling my RV-6. For more info contact me at: bpboyd(at)cdsnet.net
Bruce Boyd
Chiloquin,OR
Thanks....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
I've read several references to RVs doing basic acro, especially loops,
rolls, etc. Nobody seems to mention spins. How well do the RVs spin
(and recover!)? What about more intense acro, like snap rolls? Any
comments would be appreciated, especially from those who've already
flown their RVs and performed acro.
Thanks.
--Don McNamara
#80113
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
Tim,
I used a Glasair oil cooler kit when I built my six. The kit provided all
the hoses and fittings. They recommended you use an appropriately sized
drill bit (I don't remember the exact size) as the mandrel. The drill bit
worked fine. I had the hoses pressure tested and the're still working fine
after 400 hours. Navajo Accessories up near the airport in SA will pressure
test your hoses at a reasonable price. If you need more info or want me to
send you the pages out of the Glasair instructions I would be more than happy
to.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
>George Orndorff's systems video shows a mandrel used for assembling
>aeroquip hoses. The video mentions that instructions for making the
>mandrel were in Sport Aviation (1994?). Does anybody know what issue
>had the article? ACS wants about $40 per mandrel.
>
>
Tim,
Wicks sells the mandrels for $16 each.
Scott Gesele (N506RV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
>aeroquip hoses. The video mentions that instructions for making the
>mandrel were in Sport Aviation (1994?). Does anybody know what issue
>had the article? ACS wants about $40 per mandrel.
>Tim Making wing fairings, fuel line plumbing.
Tim,
I believe the article you want is in the Feb. 92 SA on page 75.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Don,
The RV4 spins are straight forward and easy the recovery is normal. Ive
never done more than 2.5 turns, it does start to wind up pretty good after
passing 1. I definatly would not recomend spinning this airplane with anyone
heavy in the back! As a matter of fact I wont even spin mine with anyone in
the back. I lost a good freind a few years back who we think flat spun into
the ground, he had a fairly heavy person in the back, and he was no light
weight himself. Always try and keep in mind what your aerobatic gross weight
is and that you fall within your proper cg limits. If you dont your airplane
may jump out and bite you someday.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | Re: Spray gun QUESTION? |
It's only my personal experience, but I have trashed or returned 50% of all
air tools I have purchased from Harbor Freight (mostly Central Pneumatic
brand). Hey, who knew you could'nt buy a good quality die grinder for 15
bucks. Spend a little more and buy it somewhere else, that way you'll only
do it once.
Eric Henson
Both wings in the jig.
>Don't bother, They don't work at all. Ditto for the siphon/paper cup gun.
>Buy a $25.00 auto touch up gun and be done with it.
>Ed Cole RV6A 24430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | -6 slider roll bar color |
I am getting ready to paint RV-6 slider canopy frame and roll bar, and I
am wondering about the visual effects of using a dark color. My
interior is a neutral gray, about like Marhyde primer, but I got some
"charcoal" paint to paint the instrument panel with, and am thinkig
about using it also on the canopy frame and roll bar. One reason for
this is that I think it will tend to "disappear" more than the light
gray would when looking through from the outside (look at the 1997
calendar and you'll see what I mean). But I'm wondering if it might
also make it stand out in my peripheral vision when looking out at a
bright sky from the inside. Any opinions/experience with this from
other RV-6 builders/fliers?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> If you have 10 recent hours in a Champ or Citabria and are comfortable
> making 3-point landings, then I'd say you are fine. Note I said
> comfortable - every landing doesn't have to be a greaser.
This may be true for some people, but it wasn't for me. I had around
25 recent hours in a Citabria, and was quite comfortable landing it
when I started getting checked out in a -6. I found the main problem
was over-control. The -6 is so much more responsive to control inputs
than the Citabria that it took some getting used to. It only took a
few hours to iron that out, but I wouldn't have wanted to go off
flying a -6 raw without some check-out.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WELCOME TO THE MACHINE <PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.intel.com> |
THERES A RV4 FOR SALE AT DOUBLE EAGLE II AIRPORT IN ABQ. I THINK THEY ARE
ASKING AROUND 35 FOR IT. IT IS CREAM COLLOERED IF I REMEMBER RIGHT. CALL TOM
RODGERS AT DOUBLE EAGLE II FLIGHT SERVICES. # 505-842-7007.
PAT KIRKPATRICK
RV-6A VS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WELCOME TO THE MACHINE <PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.intel.com> |
TO SET THE VS RIBS TRY THIS...
1. MARK A CENTER LINE ON ALL OF THE RIBS AND THE FRONT SPAR.
2. MOUNT ALL 3 RIBS TO THE REAR SPAR WITH CLECOS
3. SET THE MIDDLE SPAR AT A 90 DEG ANGLE TO THE REAR SPAR WITH THE FRONT SPAR
IN PLACE AND CLECOED TO THE CENTER RIB.
4. PLACE THE SKIN ON THE STUCTURE AND ALIGN THE CENTERLINE ON THE RIBS TO THE
HOLES THEN MARK THE LOCATION OF THE TWO END RIBS.
HOPE THIS HELPS,
PAT KIRKPATRICK
RV6A VERTICAL STAB
RIO RANCHO NM.
PKIRKPATRICK(at)INTEL9.INTEL.COM OR KUFU(at)SWCP.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>George Orndorff's systems video shows a mandrel used for assembling
>aeroquip hoses. The video mentions that instructions for making the
>mandrel were in Sport Aviation (1994?). Does anybody know what issue
>had the article? ACS wants about $40 per mandrel.
BTW, there is also a "mandrel-less" hose made by Aeroquip that just uses
a wrench for installation. ACS has them, and I think these are the ones
that Van's sells. There is also an "industrial" version of this hose
with the same or better pressure/temp resistance for a LOT less $$.
FC300 I believe. I was able to find it locally.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
In message , Joe Larson writes
>> The drawings say: 1.5 inches from the perpendicular from the end of the
>> -Joe
>
My method is to use a couple of small steel rules clamped from centre
line or to a reference point with cleco clamps then use fine nylon
fishing and a small weight. (ie nut) draped over the top one dropped
down to the bottom one.
Sorted out diamensions from top steel rule to bottom one using the line.
Worked very well on my RV4 tail. will use same on RV8.
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
>CAN ANY OF YOU GUYS HELP ME FIND AN RV-4? UP TO 40K. AM GOING TO SUN N FUN,
>HOPE TO FIND ONE THERE IF NOT BEFORE. E-MAIL MAlexan533, OR FAX 503-838-3834.
>OREGON
Have a day-VFR RV-4 (no gyros) with O-320 B3A 160hp, Warnke 68-74 p-tip wood
prop, ~400 ttaf ~800 smoh, Apollo 604 database loran, Narco Comm 810 TSO
comm, G-meter.
White w/blue & gold tapered stripe nose to tail, all white interior paint
with blue seat covers.
Few if any mods, weighs 930 lbs empty.
Built by Manley Walden, Vadalia, LA with 1st flight in 1992.
Cruise ~ 165 knots @ 2500 rpm (2 way average, loran)
Most would say it's an 8.5-9.0 on a 10 scale
Hangered @ Slobovia Outernational Airport (MS71) 6 mi SW of JAN vor, Jackson, MS
Motivation for selling: got married, building a house on the airport, and my
wife wants a side-by-side so she can sit up front & help.
email england(at)vicksburg.com or phone 601-638-7237
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
>> If you have 10 recent hours in a Champ or Citabria and are
>>comfortable
>> making 3-point landings, then I'd say you are fine. Note I said
>>comfortable -every landing doesn't have to be a greaser.
>I found the main problem was over-control. The -6 is so much more
>responsive to control inputs than the Citabria that it took some getting
>used to.
Randall,
I agree. I have let quiet a few pilots fly my 6 and most did not have any
time in a really responsive aircraft. I have learned to hang on when I give
them the stick and we invariably go on a roller coaster ride till they learn
this aint no Cessna. This is OK at 3,000 ft. AGL but not good when
flaring.
The 6 is a pussycat of a taildragger but it is agile. I had 11 hours TT
taildragger some in a 120 and some in a Super Cub, 0 in a RV when I
soloed the 6 and didn't have any trouble. But I had several hundred hours
in my first homebuilt a Teeny Two which did not perform any where near
the 6 but it did have very responsive controls, possibly more sensitive
than the 6.
You need some time in a aircraft with sensitive controls before you solo
a RV.
On a separate issue I did run off the runway during a high speed taxi
test before first flight. There was only very minor damage but it was
close. I nearly put it on its back. I don't recommend more than a couple of
taxi runs under 25 mph. I'll give the full story if there is interest but it is
rather long.
Charles Fink, RV-6 N548CF, 91 hours
Albuquerque, New Mexico chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Can anyone venture a guess on why a remote antenna for a GPS unit
costs $300 to $400???
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
>Can anyone venture a guess on why a remote antenna for a GPS unit
>costs $300 to $400???
Because there's people out there who will pay that amount?
More seriously:
You could ask your question on the sci.geo.satellite-nav newsgroup, or go to
dejanews; this topic was recently discussed. From memory of that discussion,
the antenna is probably an 'active' antenna, with an amplifier built into
it. And being supplied by 5V power down the wire back to the GPS. So it's
got some electronics built into it. Plus some connectors, RG58 coax cable, etc.
Even so, the price seems steep.
If you want to make your own GPS antenna, I have a design which I'm happy to
share... I got it from the Net. I also have pointers to other GPS-related
stuff on my GPS page.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeroquip FC300 Hose |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
There was a thread a while back regarding Aeroquip FC300 industrial hose
used as a substitute for Aeroquip 303 aviation hose. The archives
include discussion comparing the hose specifications of the two hoses -
the specs are virtually identical (FC300 is actually rated for higher
temp - 300 deg F versus 250 deg F).
My question is to those listers out there who have used FC300. How has it
held up in use? Any problems? Would you use it again?
I just visited my local industrial hose supplier, examined some FC300
hose and its fittings and was favorably impressed with the quality of the
stuff. -6 hose listed for $5.25/ft, a straight fitting was about $6, and
a 90-degree fitting was about $12. These fittings were steel,
cadmium-plated. They include an integral installation mandrell (tapered
to preclude cutting the inner tube walls), which eliminates the need for
a separate mandrell tool, but adds a bit to each fitting's length and
weight. The prices quoted included complete hose fabrication by the hose
supplier.
For comparison, Wicks lists 303 -6 hose for $5.10/ft, straight fittings
for $7.54, and a 90-degree fitting for $37.43. For hose fabrication, the
fittings require the use of a mandrell tool in each hose size used (Wicks
lists each size tool for $16.41). These prices do NOT include hose
fabrication - this is for make-it-yourselfers.
I'm inclined to use FC300 in my RV, just looking for observations from
the field. Thanks.
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Mike,
I will again refer to an article in EAA Technical Counselor News written by
Ben Owen. He states that some MIG welded tubular structures on two place high
wing aircraft where the welds were not normalized and then powder coated are
experiencing cracking which is virtually impossible to see without removing
the powder coating. I would be very hesitant to use this finish method on any
aircraft primary structure, unless, as someone previously suggested, the
coating is clear.
Les Williams
RV-6AQB #60027, wings almost complete
Tacoma, WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of
dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 03, 1997 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Powder Coating
Hey,Glen: I powder coated my rollover structure in the -4 and it looks
GREAT!! It has already suffered a fair amount of grief and still looks good.
(By the way: it is BLACK which has a tenedency NOT to reflect off the canopy
in the sunlight, making visibility MUCH nicer for my GIB). My mount is
coated a light grey (and has suffered even more greif and still looks good)
and, I agree with Ryan in that if the metal under the coating is cracking,
the coating will also crack as it is adherent to the metal under it. A lot
of the tubular steel fuselage kits (KitFox, etc) have powder coated
fuselages from the factory.
I looked and asked around and found a company I liked. (Ask around your
local builders or EAA groups). They will slip your stuff into a batch of
things they are already doing, if you like the color they are using, and it
costs MUCH less doing it that way. You may have to wait a little longer but
the savings can be substantial. They do a lot of black, grey and white
things.
Steel is best to coat as the temperatures used are high and can change the
temper of aluminum. THICK aluminum that isn't being stressed may be OK.
Keep building.......
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
The BluePoint brand Air drill at about $180 available through SnapOn has
worked very well for me. Avery Enterprise also sells some nice angle drills
and such. Might as well go ahead and buy good tools. It seems it is never
regreted. RV4-2280
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Hose assembly mandrel |
George Orndorff's systems video shows a mandrel used for assembling
aeroquip hoses. The video mentions that instructions for making the
mandrel were in Sport Aviation (1994?). Does anybody know what issue
had the article? ACS wants about $40 per mandrel.
That article would be the Feb '92 Sport Aviation,
"Hints for Homebuilders", page 75, contributed by
D.E.Baker, Elida, Ohio.
The mandrels are made from drill blanks, slightly
tapered on one end, the other end brazed or welded
into a steel AN flared tube plug fitting, "the type
with a hole already bored".
The following chart was included:
Drill Blank Sizing Chart
for Hose Mandrel Construction
Tube Size Hose Size Drill Blank Size
(inch) (dash no.) (inch)
3/16 3 8/64
1/4 4 11/64
3/8 6 19/64
1/2 8 25/64
5/8 10 31/64
For testing newly built hoses, you might also
check out the Hint by Don Wall, of Winter Park,
Florida. April, '90 Sport Aviation, page50.
A hydraulic test stand built from a
cheap hydraulic bottle jack, drain oil, drill and
tap a fitting in the base below the lift cylinder,
flush out particles, add new fluid and a 4000 psi gage,
and "capture" the ram by bolting it to the base so
that the ram can't extend, only build pressure.
D.Anderson
RV-4, Wings
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
I did some spins with Mike Seager when I got checked out prior to flying my
RV. I did them both left and right. First, let me say that they are not for
the faint of heart! I have a lot of experience in ACRO and in my experience
there is only one airplane that spins faster and that is a military trainer
called a T-37. When pro-spin controls are applied as the RV stalls, it does
a snap roll to inverted and the nose ends up about 70-80 degrees nose low and
the spin rate is fast. Recovery is instantaneous with proper control input.
I did one three turn spin to the left, which is the fastest way because the
engine torque helps the spin rate, and I thought it was a lot of fun. It
spins extremely fast and the nose is pointed nearly straight down. I
guarantee that unless you have done a lot of spins and like them, it will
scare the living crap out of you. Again, recovery is very quick and precise
but you are in a very steep dive and must get the nose up fast without
encountering a secondary stall or you will end up over redline speed. I
don't plan to do any in my RV because it is very hard on the gyros and snap
rolls put a lot of stress on the empennage and aft fuselage. I really like
the way the RV rolls. It is almost effortless. I do some on every flight
just for the fun of it. As for serious ACRO, get a Pitts or something that
is not so clean. The RV picks up speed so fast on vertical maneuvers that it
is very easy to get outside the envelope. I know, because I wasn't paying
enough attention to the pitch and roll rate on a barrel roll and ended up
over 230 MPH at the end. Man, does this airplane go downhill fast! Just do
basic ACRO, nice and smooth. Enjoy the ride!
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
I tried to put my flaps down last night and even though I could hear the
motor running, the flaps did not go down. I landed no flap and as I taxied
in, I looked at the flaps and they were down! When I checked into the
problem, it turned out that the rod end bearing had unscrewed from the push
rod that is part of the electric flap drive. I reinstalled the rod end and
tightened the jam nut. I ran the flaps up and down a few times and the rod
end started unscrewing again when the flaps were at the end of the retraction
cycle. I tried to stop the push rod from turning with my fingers and could
not. The motor has a lot of torque trying to turn it. I held the rod with
vice grip pliers and really tightened down on the jam nut. It finally held.
I think that it would be wise to install a cotter pin through the rod and
rod end bearing to keep it from turning. Using safety wire might work but
there is no place to attach it to except to wrap it around the end of the rod
end bearing where the bolt goes through it. That would rub on the torque arm
of the flaps and does not seem like a good solution. When I get my
replacement flap motor, I plan to drill mine for a cotter pin. The
installation instructions should warn of this problem.
Jim Cone, RV-6A Flying!!!
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Smith <kpsmith(at)cnsnet.com> |
Thanks for the replies!
Instead of studying my navel (CDR USN RET), I should have looked at the
plans. Angle IS noted, and with a angle-indicating level available,
subtracting was no problem.
Matching the skins and using the holes as guides seemed not good advise,
as I am not ready to trust the skins as being cut right. There are no
holes. Some of us are slow builders...
Ken Smith
kpsmith(at)cnsnet.com
RV-6 VS in the jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Finished RV6 Tail Kit for Sale |
I've got a nice (finished) RV6 tail for sale. I've already built one tail
kit and picked this one up when I bought a second hand wing kit. The
workmanship is good, and all that is left to do is attach the counterweights
and the fiberglass, build the remainder of the airplane, and go flying. The
price is $750 with a full plans set. Look at it this way: Save $350
(+shipping) versus the factory and 250 labor hours.
Kyle Boatright
Atlanta GA
(770) 975-0861
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip FC300 Hose |
Mike Kukulski wrote:
>
>
> There was a thread a while back regarding Aeroquip FC300 industrial hose
> used as a substitute for Aeroquip 303 aviation hose. The archives
> include discussion comparing the hose specifications of the two hoses -
> the specs are virtually identical ..... SNIP
just looking for observations from
> the field. Thanks.
>
> Mike Kukulski
>
Aircraft flared fittings have a 37 degree flare. Does this hose use 37
or 45 degree(typical automotive) fittings on the end?
Although it has been done (mostly by people who don't know/notice the
difference) 37 and 45 don't mix.
That's the only problem I could imagine other than fluids compatibility.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
>
>
> rolls, etc. Nobody seems to mention spins. How well do the RVs spin
Below is a note that I posted almost a yr ago (3/12/96) on spins
I did in my RV4. I did some more spins after I posted this note but
I can not find that summary. On that set, the engine died twice in
the 10 turn spins. I think this was because I was spinning left and
had the fuel tank on a different tank (left one?) and it did not draw
fuel from the pickup tube properly.
I don't know if it says this below, but do the spins solo in a RV4.
I have not tried them with two people on board. Watch the aft CG
to be within the aerobatic limits.
Herman
dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
Subject: RV-List: Some accurate statistics on Spins in RV-4
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 16:39:30 -0600 (CST)
A few weeks back, there was a discussion of spins in RV's.
One of the notes posted by Rolf Hankers indicated up to
15,000 ft/min descent rate based on 500 ft. loss per turn and
1.5 to 2 seconds per turn based on his RV-4 test solo.
Joe Larson posted a note a few days later questioning the
'15,000 feet/minute' as being too high a rate and wondering if
this was a spiral and not a spin.
I had posted some general info on some initial spin tests but
I had not collected any real quantifiable performance numbers.
My RV-4 is still in test flight mode and my Pitts is in maintance mode
so I decided to to collect some real numbers to determine who was correct.
The following numbers were collected in my RV-4 solo with 1/4 fuel.
My plane has the Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop and O-320-E2D (150 HP).
I did a total of six 10 turn spins to the left. I did 3 on Saturday and
went back and did 4 or 5 more on Sunday.
Starting altitude, 6,000 AGL.
Finish altitude, 2,500 AGL
Lost altitude is 3,500 ft.
Turns 10 turns
Recovery 1.5 turns
Total turns then is 11.5
Time per turn 2.0 seconds
Altitude loss per turn 300 Ft.
This all happened in a little over 30 seconds from start of the rudder kick to
straight and level. Spins were normal entry, power-off stall, full rudder
at stall. The stick was kept full back and with neutral aileron for
the duration of the spin (i.e. no aileron input).
The airspeed indicator was setting on 0 (zero), I.E, too low to read.
The G-meter was reading 1 G.
My ROC only goes to +/- 2,000 FPM and it was pegged at -2,000.
I timed the rotation rate on turns 4 thru 7 at 6.17 seconds.
That works out to just a hair over 2.0 seconds per rotation.
The altimeter showed about 300 ft. loss per rotation.
That also correlates quite well with the 3,500 ft/11.5 turns = 304 ft
per turn. There is also some altitude loss during recovery so
the average loss per turn would be somewhat less than 300 ft./turn.
So, in 6 seconds, you loose 900 ft. Therefore in 60 seconds you
would loose 9,000 ft. It looks like the descent rate is 9,000 ft/min.
Its quite a wild ride, that is descending at over 100 MPH straight down.
So, the 2 seconds per turn that Rolph posted is quite close.
The 500 ft. per turn loss appears to be way too high per my measurements.
One thing I noticed is that at the end of the first half-turn,
the aircraft is 'tucked' inverted about 15 to 10 degrees.
The reason for this is that the plane still has some forward momentum
(you stall at 45 mph or so) so after one half turn, the air is
hitting the bottom side of the horizontal stabilizer and this pushes
the tail back and pitches the plane over in what would be called
a 'tucked' or negative down line in aerobatic terms.
This may be a little frightning to someone not use to doing spins.
At the end of the first turn, the nose is back up some as the
forward airspeed is then pushing on the top of the HS.
Also, it takes quite a while to get the spin stopped (1.5 turns or so).
You have to hold the opposite rudder and simply wait. If someone gets
confused, it could lead to problems if they put back in pro-spin rudder.
So, what can be concluded from all of this?
1) The aircraft spins and recovers fine.
2) The descent rate is quite high and any ground impact in a spin
would be a major problem.
3) The recovery time and consume quite a bit of altitude if the spin
is fully developed. We have all heard of the theory of putting
a plane into a spin to get down through some clouds if we were
caught 'IFR on top' (but VFR rated). Yes, that could be done as
the spin is a stable configuration. However, you would need a
minimum of 1,000 feet celing in order to have much of a chance
of recovering with some margin for error.
Also, a spin can progress into a high speed spiral or dive if
full elevator is not maintained. The high turn rate in clouds
would probably give vertigo.
4) I think everyone should have spin training. This is even more
of a reqirement if you plan to do any aerobatics.
There are a lot of manuvers that can result in a spin of done
improperly. If you have not been thru some spin training with
an instructor, you will probably panic.
I recall back in 1968 (yikes) when I was learning to fly in
a Luscombe 8A and a stall turned into a spin. It scared the
cr*p out of me. My instructor showed me the ropes on how to
spin. That Luscome was a nice spinning aircraft. These older
planes did not have 'wash out' in the wings and they would fall
off into a spin very easy. All the modern trainers have the
angle-of-attack washed out at the tips to keep the tips/ailerons flying.
Therefore many pilots don't really know what a plane without washout
will do. I think the RV wing is straignt (no twist or washout)
so it is not as forgiving as your C152, C172, etc.
If you have some training, then if you ever get into an unplanned
spin you should be able to recover (and not panic).
5) Lastly, doing spins should be done with caution, especially anything
over one or two turns. There was a good article in IAC Sport
Aerobatics a few yrs back (I could not find the article last nite)
that discussed how seven turns in a spin is a magic number.
If the pilot is not conditioned, they will typically loose it above
7 turns. It recommended working up to any advanced spins 1/2 or
1 turn at a time.
I can say I felt like a one armed paper hanger trying to do the
spins, stay oriented, and count the number of turns and then collect
some meaningfull data at the same time. Kind of like rubbing your
stomach and patting your head at the same time. I wanted to know
how many turns I was doing and that means staying oriented and
counting the rotations with visual contact outside the plane.
Collecting the data from inside requires focusing on the instruments.
I found I could really only collect one usefull piece of information
at a time, like time the rate or measure the altitude lost per
turn. So, it took a number of spins to collect the data and to
get a couple of samples to verify it.
6) I would still like to get some power-on spin info to see what that
does to the spin rate and descent rate.
Well, I was just going to post a short note on the stats and here
it a few pages already plugging up the internet.
Herman
--------------------------------------------------------
*NOTICE for internet mail*: Any ideas or thoughts expressed here are my
own and are independent of my employer.
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
Don, you also asked about snap rolls.
I did two or three in the RV4 when I was doing the test filghts.
It snaps OK. Keep the speed below 120 mph or so. I don't recall
if Van publishes a max snap speed. 110 should be a safe speed.
I have not done any snaps in the RV after that. I do them in the
Pitts and don't really need to tear up the RV.
I don't think the snaps are very hard on the plane but the
word 'snap' somehow sounds very bad. It is really just one wing
stalling and the other lifting so the plane auto-rotates around.
There is some stress on the rudder as you push it to full deflection
and you are doing an accelerated stall (plus the rudder which gets
it to snap). There is some gyroscopic loads on the prop, but
again, not a big deal at these speeds and roll rates.
A wood prop would not have much problem with this. A CS prop
is much heavier and would have more loading on it and the crankshaft.
Herman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Fuel System |
Hi to everyone on the list:
My question is in reference to the RV-6A fuel system. I have all of my
fuel lines complete up to the gascolator. From the gascolator I am
installing a fuel pressure transducer and also a fuel flow transducer.
These will input into the RMI Micro Monitor.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to how and where to position both of
these transducers. The fuel flow transducer is a FlowScan 201B. It is
recommended by the manufacturer that this be placed between the mechanical
fuel pump (0-320) and the carb. - Yet it must have straight fuel lines to
reduce any turbulence, be mounted on a horizontal surface and use flexible
hoses - Yikes!!!!
Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated.
Many thanks.
Rob Greener, RV-6A, N418RL (Reserved), Flying in May (Maybe!).
rgreener(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RCB <snaproll(at)rmi.net> |
> I have a lot of experience in ACRO and in my experience
> there is only one airplane that spins faster and that is a military trainer
> called a T-37.
I was discussing acro just the other day with my brother, who is an ex
T-37 instructor. We are of the same opinion about spins... We can do
'em but we don't like 'em all that much. Cuban 8's and hammerheads are
a lot more fun!
I was speculating that my RV-8 (when it finally flies) will probably
crank around pretty fast in a spin and he asked me what the asymetric
g-loading was for the airplane. I didn't have a clue and hadn't thought
about it much. He said it is a figure, usually lower than the negative
g rating. The T-37's rating was somewhere around 3 g's.
FWIW I thought I'd add this comment as something to check out if you are
going to do some "serious" acro just to ensure that you are doing safe
serious acro.
BTW Great stuff on this list. I've learned a lot and I look forward to
logging on and reading the postings every evening.
Roy
RV-8 80096
Wing kit scheduled for production on the 10th!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Fuel System |
>Does anyone have any suggestions as to how and where to position both of
>these transducers. The fuel flow transducer is a FlowScan 201B. It is
>recommended by the manufacturer that this be placed between the mechanical
>fuel pump (0-320) and the carb. - Yet it must have straight fuel lines to
>reduce any turbulence, be mounted on a horizontal surface and use flexible
>hoses - Yikes!!!!
Rob,
I installed Matt Dralles Fuelscan DX in my RV-6. I first installed
it between the mechanical pump and the carb. per instructions. I didn't like
the way the transducer was sort of,hanging there and was also very close to
the exhaust pipes. I then moved it inside the cockpit between the electric
pump and bulkhead fitting. The only difference between the two installations
was that when the electric pump is on, I get a higher rate of GPH than
normal(on the latter installation).Also, the fuel is not filtered going into
the transducer...Time will tell if this is a mistake or not.
Accuracy -- Real World...On a typical fillup of about 20 gallons, my
unit shows that I have burnt about 20.5 - 21 gals. On my controlled tests..
Fillup, fly for 1-2 hours, come back to same airport, same temp. etc.,
fillup to same level,keeping boost pump time to a minimum, I get less than
3% error, always showing more fuel burnt than really was. I assume that the
reason the fuelscan shows more fuel burnt than really is, is because of the
electric boost pump being on a portion of the time. I also assume that the
electric pump is causing a slight turbulance in the transducer(when it's
on), thereby causing a larger GPH reading.
I have floor pedals in my RV-6, I'm not sure if that will make a diff. or
not as to the location of the transducer. Also I have an Autocad drawing of
both of my installations (crude).If you are interested and have a capable
mailer, I can email it to you, or fax it.
I don't have the transducer #/brand in front of me, but in
theory...installations should be close, if not the same.
The fuel pressure sender is usually connected to a tee fitting, with
flexible hose, at the output of the mechanical pump. Van's sells this fitting.
Hope this helps, feel free to email me personally if you have any questions.
Thanks
Todd N92TM RV-6 Flying tmrv6(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Fuel System |
Rob,
I mounted my fuel flow senser right on the gasalator ,and seems to work
ok. mounted there I was albe to make a bracket to help support it . the fuel
presure sender is taped off the out fitting on the fuel pump using the
fitting I got from Vans . I yoy have any further question please call me at
817-439-3280...George Onrdorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement |
Mike,
I have an antenna farm all on the belly of my rv-4. The com antenna is in
the middle compartment where the forward stick lives, in the left
compartment just in front of the main spar is the transponder (forward) and
a cat whiskers( vor/loc). In the right compartment in front of the main
spar is the marker beacon antenna.
All work really well (I'm especially happy with the vor/loc since it's
really not suppose to be there according to all the guru's).
Dan
>
>Listers: Those of you flying (or not): What was your antenna placement;
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
There is an RV-4 for sale at AEG (Double Eagle Airport) in Alubquerque.
>From what I can see it is well built. Contact Tom, the chief mechanic at AEG
for details. 505.842.7007
Dan
>
>CAN ANY OF YOU GUYS HELP ME FIND AN RV-4? UP TO 40K. AM GOING TO SUN N FUN,
>HOPE TO FIND ONE THERE IF NOT BEFORE. E-MAIL MAlexan533, OR FAX 503-838-3834.
>OREGON
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Watson" <gtwatson(at)students.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Wanted: RV-4 wing kit |
Anyone selling an RV-4 wing kit? I would prefer that it had not been
started, but as long as the workmanship is good I'd consider a partially
build kit.
Glen Watson
gtwatson(at)students.wisc.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Interesting article on diesel aircraft engines in the March 97 Aviation
Consumer. It's written by Greg Travis, who has the web page at
http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/Engines so the same article might be
there.
It has a lot of details on the Continental Diesel. He also says Renault
and Aerospatiale have just unveiled a running prototype 2 cycle diesel
which they intend to market as a bolt-on replacement for Lycomings. It
will be available in 180 to 300 hp, but the prototype is 200hp, 4 cyl
opposed, air cooled, turbocharged, 2000 rpm, single lever FADEC
controller, 3000 TBO. First flight is planned for May. Customer
deliveries planned for mid-98. No estimate of price.
________________________________________________________________________________
<< If you want to make your own GPS antenna, I have a design which I'm happy
to
share... I got it from the Net. I also have pointers to other GPS-related
stuff on my GPS page.
>>
Frank,
Sounds like it has possibilities. Where do I send a SASE?
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
<< For testing newly built hoses, you might also
check out the Hint by Don Wall, of Winter Park,
Florida. April, '90 Sport Aviation, page50.
A hydraulic test stand built from a
cheap hydraulic bottle jack, drain oil, drill and
tap a fitting in the base below the lift cylinder,
flush out particles, add new fluid and a 4000 psi gage,
and "capture" the ram by bolting it to the base so
that the ram can't extend, only build pressure. >>
I might add that a container would be advised. If and when a hose lets go,
there will be oil sprayed in roughly every direction.
Gene Francis, Did some hose testing for a while,once
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Fuel System |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>Rob Greener, RV-6A, N418RL (Reserved), Flying in May (Maybe!).
>rgreener(at)micron.net
Hi Rob! Glad to see you on the list. Did you rent that hangar? I
noticed the "For Rent" sign was down.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap problem |
| From: | mpilla(at)mail02.mitre.org (Michael A. Pilla) |
>I tried to put my flaps down last night and even though I could hear the
>motor running, the flaps did not go down. I landed no flap and as I taxied
>in, I looked at the flaps and they were down! When I checked into the
>problem, it turned out that the rod end bearing had unscrewed from the push
>rod that is part of the electric flap drive.
> When I get my
>replacement flap motor, I plan to drill mine for a cotter pin. The
>installation instructions should warn of this problem.
I discovered this while checking the basic actuator assembly while my fuse
was still in the jig. I added the cotter pin. It sure was a surprise to see
how
powerful that little motor is.
Good advice, Jim.
Mike Pilla
RV4, #2866
installed gear leg fairings, wheel pants (fiberglass, ugh!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip FC300 Hose |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>There was a thread a while back regarding Aeroquip FC300 industrial
>hose used as a substitute for Aeroquip 303 aviation hose.
>the specs are virtually identical.
>
>My question is to those listers out there who have used FC300. How has
>it held up in use? Any problems? Would you use it again?
>I'm inclined to use FC300 in my RV, just looking for observations from
>the field. Thanks.
Hi Mike. I used FC300 exclusively for all of my firewall to engine
connections. My local supplier was about 10% cheaper than your quote,
but it did not include fabrication. I originally wanted to have them
fabricated, but found out that doing it yourself is very easy. Also, I
made up a couple of hoses that needed to be slightly longer/shorter once
they were in place. With the tight fit of things in the engine
compartment, 1/4" can make a big difference on the stress placed on the
hose.
If you buy some extra hose, you can custom fit everything to your
satisfaction. I then had them pressure tested at a local hydraulics
place for $8 for 6 hoses. The hoses were tested to 1500-2000# depending
on diameter. No leaks. Considering the oil pressure redlines at 100#,
and the fuel hoses max at about 10#, I think that will suffice.. :)
I only have about 60 hours on the airplane, but have had no problems thus
far.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
I've had a couple of requests, so I thought I'd share what I have with the
list. I haven't attached the two GPS antenna design images, even though
they're small. They're available from
<http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter/>... they'll make the following more
understandable. The following is stuff I've archived from s.g.s-n. My GPS
page is <http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/gps.htm>.
Frank.
>Newsgroups: sci.geo.satellite-nav
>From: phr(at)netcom.com (Paul Rubin)
>Subject: Re: homebrew GPS-receiver
>In article <58ja3l$scu@sunsystem5.informatik.tu-muenchen.de>,
>Sebastian Birnbach wrote:
>>A friend of mine told me that some radio freaks have published plans for
>>homebrewing a GP-receiver with a 80286 as main CPU. Does anybody know anything
>>about this? The plans must be approx. 3 years old (which is amazing,don't you
>>think?)
>
>You may be thinking of the one published in the German ham radio
>magazine UKW-Berichte (UHF Communications). It used a 68000, not a 286.
>UKW-Berichte has a web page that you should be able to find with
>a search engine. You should be able to contact the publisher
>for back issues from there.
>
>--
>
>AeroAntennas is a well-known supplier of GPS antennas
>to GPS manufacturers. According to my copy of DeLorme's
>"Phone Search USA" program, their address is
>
>AeroAntenna Technologies
>9410 De Soto Ave, Suite J
>Chatsworth, California 91311
>USA
>
>Their phone number in the USA (country code 1) is
>818-993-3842
>
>I hope this helps.
>
>--
>
>From: plundahl(at)iaehv.nl (Peter Lundahl)
>iggy(at)merit.net (GSW) wrote:
>
>> Hi all... can some one help me with GPS antenna design?
>
>> I would like to build a patch antenna that is reasonably small,
>>perhaps 2.5x2.5 inchs or so. If someone can help me or point me
>>towards someone or some information that can, I would greatly
>>appreate it.
>
>Dimensions of Patch antennas (like all other antennas) depend on the
>wavelength. The QST patch antenne as described in the FAQ measures
>about 84 mm x 92 mm = 1/2 wavelength. It has air isolation with a
>dielectrical constant of 1. The much smaller Trimble antenna uses some
>kind of material with a much higher dielectrical constant for the
>isolator. You must exactly know the value of this material, when you
>recalculate dimensions of the antenna.
>h.t.h
>--
>From: davem(at)cs.ubc.ca (Dave Martindale)
>Subject: Re: Antenna Design
>
>To a first approximation, the size of the antenna scales as the square
>root of the dielectric constant of the insulating material. The W1GE
>antenna is about 5 x 5.25 inches overall (including the ground plane).
>To reduce the size to half, a dielectric constant of at least 4 is
>needed. Epoxy fiberglass PC board is 4.8, so that would do, but
>apparently the material is somewhat lossy at 1.6 GHz so it would eat
>some of the signal.
>
>The commercial patch antennas are apparently made using a ceramic
>dielectric. For example, alumina has a dielectric constant of 10, so
>the size reduction is a factor of 3+.
>
>However, as the dielectric constant gets higher and the patch gets
>smaller and the spacing thinner, the tolerances drop and you end up
>with a design that requires very close manufacturing tolerances and
>microwave test equipment to do the final tuning. The W1GE antenna
>was expressly designed to require non-critical manufacturing and no
>alignment - and large size is just part of the cost of that. The
>physically larger antenna also develops a larger voltage for a
>fixed RF field strength, which helps too.
>
>This doesn't mean that you can't homebrew a small patch antenna.
>But it will be a challenge.
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nzZ (without the anti-email-spam Z, of course)
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/
Frank van der Hulst, Software Engineer, Cardax, PEC(NZ) Ltd, Marton
"Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass; A good bookshop is just a genteel
Black Hole that knows how to read". Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H Sutphin <hsutphin(at)magicnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip FC300 Hose |
Sacramento Sky Ranch makes hoses. They are online and have guides for
several topics including hose fabrication. They are worth reading or
browsing through. I had them make some hoses for my Grumman AA-1A. They
do quality work. They also publish a manual on engines that is
excellent.
http://www.sierra.net/skyranch/
Harold
//RV-6A //wing kit//
Mike Kukulski wrote:
> There was a thread a while back regarding Aeroquip FC300 industrial hose
> used as a substitute for Aeroquip 303 aviation hose. The archives
> include discussion comparing the hose specifications of the two hoses -
> the specs are virtually identical (FC300 is actually rated for higher
> temp - 300 deg F versus 250 deg F).
>
> My question is to those listers out there who have used FC300. How has it
> held up in use? Any problems? Would you use it again?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << If you want to make your own GPS antenna, I have a design which I'm happy
> to
> share... I got it from the Net. I also have pointers to other GPS-related
> stuff on my GPS page.
> >>
> Frank,
> Sounds like it has possibilities. Where do I send a SASE?
> Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.comFrank,
I'd like a copy of the design. I tried the newsgroups you recommended
with no success.
Thanks,
Ed Cole
emcole(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | a comment on hoses |
FYI, someone today noted the issue of 37degree AN fittings vs 45 degree
fittings.
Your local bearing and hose shops will use the term JIC for the 37 degree
fittings. These are the same as AN but outside of aircraft they are
called JIC.
Also, most of your local speed shops will carry a good number of AN
fittings and hose. This is usually Aeroquip.
For hose, I really like the Teflon hose with the SS braid on the outside.
This hose is great for fuel as you don't have to worry about the rubber
liner drying out or going bad like it does in so many of the hoses.
(There are lots of problem reports in the IAC tech notes about planes
that have set unused for some time and then the hoses dry out and cause
problems when put back into service).
I also use the JIC fittings. They are steel but have brass inserts.
These are very easy to install (unlike the rubber hose) and are reuseable.
Use the diegrinder with cutoff wheel to cut them. Be sure to clean out
the inside of the hose from the trash from cutting the hose.
Herman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Just yesterday someone posted an interesting bit of info. re. Diesel engines and
suggested going to http://gtravis.usc.indiana.edu/engines for more info.
I can't seem to find the site. Is the address correct?
Thanks
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip FC300 Hose |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
Re:
> There was a thread a while back regarding Aeroquip FC300 industrial hose
> used as a substitute for Aeroquip 303 aviation hose. The archives
> include discussion comparing the hose specifications of the two hoses -
> the specs are virtually identical ..... SNIP
just looking for observations from
> the field. Thanks.
>
> Mike Kukulski
>
Aircraft flared fittings have a 37 degree flare. Does this hose use 37
or 45 degree(typical automotive) fittings on the end?
Although it has been done (mostly by people who don't know/notice the
difference) 37 and 45 don't mix.
-----------------
37-degree flared fittings are available, refered to also as SAE J514
standard, formerly known as JIC. It is also available with 45-degree,
O-ring, NPT, and 16 other types of fittings, including various German,
French, British, and Japanese standards. In other words, a choice. The
fittings are also available in a variety of materials, including
aluminum, steel, cad-plated steel, stainless steel, brass, etc..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
All this talk about mandrell-less fittings has me wondering -- are there
any advantages to using the fittings WITH the mandrel? Seems to me if
you can get away without having a special tool for each size that would
be prefereable, so why would the ones with the mandrel be the "standard"
for aviation as seems to be the case?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
>Can anyone venture a guess on why a remote antenna for a GPS unit
>costs $300 to $400???
Sure, if it's an ACTIVE antenna . . . amplifier built into
the base and powered either by special coupler that
carries power up the coax -or- separate leads to the
power bus.
Passive antennas are much less expensive and can even
be constructed by the amateur builder. A gentleman gave
a forum at OSH last year on this topic. I'm trying
to track down the information and make it downloadable
from our website.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi all!
Our new baby arrived today! We're soooooooo excited! Spent only 3
hours picking it up from the shipping yard, bringing it to our house,
and uncrating it. Now begins the task of inventory! And we had the
wing crate delivered to Glenn's parents' house because we don't have
enough room here for everything - as it was, we had to uncrate in the
driveway amidst light snow flurries! So there remains the task of
uncrating the wings too.
Well, we're going to open the mysterious heavy box now, and see what
surprises it holds for us!
Just thought we'd share our excitement with you all!
Glenn and Judi Gordon
P.S. Van's wrote "Airoplain" on the crate - that was cute!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
>
>>> If you have 10 recent hours in a Champ or Citabria and are
>>>comfortable
>>> making 3-point landings, then I'd say you are fine. Note I said
>>>comfortable -every landing doesn't have to be a greaser.
>
>>I found the main problem was over-control. The -6 is so much more
>>responsive to control inputs than the Citabria that it took some getting
>>used to.
>
>The 6 is a pussycat of a taildragger but it is agile. I had 11 hours TT
>taildragger some in a 120 and some in a Super Cub, 0 in a RV when I
>soloed the 6 and didn't have any trouble.
>You need some time in a aircraft with sensitive controls before you solo
>a RV.
>
I would would agree on the 6 being much more responsive to control input
and that it is a pussycat of a taildragger, however, I'd like to add
another twist that Champ, Citabria and other simuliar aircraft share.
Having owned and flew a few hundred hrs. on a champ, I found that setting
up for a proper decent with the 6 was the most demanding. Factors such as
glide ratio, speed,etc. are all totally new to one who is not checked out
on type. Face it, the first flight is not the one where you are going to
practise slow flight. If you are like me, my first flight told me, yes, I
have a great machine, but now that I've flown it and everything seems ok in
the air, let's get it down and check for any flaws, then start the test
program and have some fun!
Not trying to be rude to those who ventured skyward as I have on an unknown
type, I must admit that even 2hrs on a friends 6 would have gone a long
ways to build my confidence. Who knows, it's not every one who gets to
relive their first solo!
Am reading great stuff from you folks and waiting for the snow to melt so
C-FXXG can again be airborne.
Ed Hobenshield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hose assembly mandrel |
Randall,
Hoses made with the mandrels are more likely to be properly assembled. As
A&P's, we are cautioned against assembling hoses without the mandrels... it
can be done, but should not be done. If the mandrel is not used, then it is
possible to cut a sliver of hose rubber from the inside of the hose during
assembly. This little sliver of rubber stays insde the assembled hose, and
ususally can not be seen by looking in the hose. This can and has been the
cause of many blocked lines. The sliver of rubber can act like a flapper
valve and cause blockage in the line. All of this is particularly true with
Aeroquip hoses, and before I get flamed let me say that I no nothing of the
type of hose that may be designed for assembly without a mandrel. Aeroquip
publishes excellent instuctions for hose assembly utilizing mandrels.
For me, I like Aeroquip hose ends, usualy 303 type hose, and I pay to have
them tested and flushed, a small price for the piece of mind I get.
I have not seen nor tried the mandrels Wicks sells, however, I have been told
by others that good results are possible with these mandrels.
Jon Ross
RV-80094 Working on wings...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
IF YOU WANT YOUR LANDING LIGHTS OR NAV LIGHTS TO FLASH FOR INCREASED
RECOGNITION, SIMPLY BUY A THREE WAY SWITCH, AND A HEAVY DUTY TURN SIGNAL
FLASHER 12 VOLT, HOOK IT UP SO THAT THE LIGHT CAN BE EITHER IN STEADY ON
POSITION OR FLASH POSITION. WORKS GREAT. MY BIGGEST FEAR IS MID-AIR SO I
LEAVE MINE ON ALL THE TIME, THE BULBS SEEM TO LAST JUST AS LONG. I LEARNED
THIS FROM AN OLD TIMER.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Fuel System |
>
>Hi to everyone on the list:
>
>My question is in reference to the RV-6A fuel system. I have all of my
>fuel lines complete up to the gascolator. From the gascolator I am
>installing a fuel pressure transducer and also a fuel flow transducer.
>These will input into the RMI Micro Monitor.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions as to how and where to position both of
>these transducers. The fuel flow transducer is a FlowScan 201B. It is
>recommended by the manufacturer that this be placed between the mechanical
>fuel pump (0-320) and the carb. - Yet it must have straight fuel lines to
>reduce any turbulence, be mounted on a horizontal surface and use flexible
>hoses - Yikes!!!!
>
>Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated.
>
>Many thanks.
>
>Rob Greener, RV-6A, N418RL (Reserved), Flying in May (Maybe!).
>rgreener(at)micron.net
Rob, The way it is done on Van's planes (may not be correct, but it works)
mount the flow transducer on a bracket about mid width, but below the
height of the mechanical fuel pump on the firewall. Come out of the pump
with a KB-090-T and with a large radius of Aeroquip hose loop around into
the flow transducer. Out of the transducer and into the carb. Keep all
radius' greater than 6". The fittings into and out of the transducer should
be staight fittings. At the KB-090-T, with 1/4" hose go up to the pressure
transducer mounted on the firewall. We have three planes with this plumbing
and it works great. Bill
>
>
Bill N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over
1000 RV flying hours. RV-4-180 soon.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Sun 'n Fun Banquet |
We have just about nailed the banquet down. A couple of people were
dissatisfied with the meal last year so we looked into a different
arrangement, but as luck would have it, waiting until the last minute is
going to guarantee that nothing changes. We actually did check two other
ideas out, but time ran out and went with the known. Sooooo....
Sun 'n Fun Banquet will be Tuesday, April 8th at the Civic Center, just
like last year. The meals will be .... you guessed it, just like last
year. Steak @ $25 and Chicken @ $18 (I think). Call to reserve a spot and
then pick the tickets up at the booth by Sunday evening. If you drop in the
booth, we usually have tickets until Sunday afternoon. We need to give a
head count by 4pm on Sunday, so don't wait until the last minute.
Our booth has moved from the spot we have had for the last several years.
We are out on the perimeter of the grass, against the fence on the east end
of the vendors grass display area.
We will have a Quickbuild on display again and the new RV-8 160hp (provided
the paint is dry) on display. We will also be looking for customer A/C that
we can display in the area.
See you at the big Sun 'n Fun, Bill
Bill N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over
1000 RV flying hours. RV-4-180 soon.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Fuel System |
I put my FlowScan sensor just down stream from the electrical boost pump
about 6 inches. It works fine.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: -6 slider roll bar color |
I painted mine with the same Marhyde gray primer that I painted the interior
of my plane with. It is not distracting at all.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
The cost of the antenna probably includes the cost of lawyers who sue at the
drop of a hat (or the drop of a satelite signal). They put a huge tax on
everything we buy.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers:
This concept may work for low wattage bulbs, but don't try it with 120
Watt halogen bulbs (such as the Bob Olds ligh kit). These bulbs have
operating currents of just over 10 Amps EACH, and an inrush current in
excess of 3 times that. Most heavey duty flashers are designed for
switching 4-5 small bulbs (ie, taillight variety).
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
> IF YOU WANT YOUR LANDING LIGHTS OR NAV LIGHTS TO FLASH FOR INCREASED
>RECOGNITION, SIMPLY BUY A THREE WAY SWITCH, AND A HEAVY DUTY TURN SIGNAL
>FLASHER 12 VOLT, HOOK IT UP SO THAT THE LIGHT CAN BE EITHER IN STEADY ON
>POSITION OR FLASH POSITION. WORKS GREAT. MY BIGGEST FEAR IS MID-AIR SO I
>LEAVE MINE ON ALL THE TIME, THE BULBS SEEM TO LAST JUST AS LONG. I
LEARNED
>THIS FROM AN OLD TIMER.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Engines |
>
>Just yesterday someone posted an interesting bit of info. re. Diesel
>engines and
>suggested going to http://gtravis.usc.indiana.edu/engines for more info.
>
>I can't seem to find the site. Is the address correct
My bookmark: http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/Engines/
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
aol.com!MAlexan533(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> IF YOU WANT YOUR LANDING LIGHTS OR NAV LIGHTS TO FLASH FOR INCREASED
> RECOGNITION, SIMPLY BUY A THREE WAY SWITCH, AND A HEAVY DUTY TURN SIGNAL
> FLASHER 12 VOLT, HOOK IT UP SO THAT THE LIGHT CAN BE EITHER IN STEADY ON
> POSITION OR FLASH POSITION. WORKS GREAT. MY BIGGEST FEAR IS MID-AIR SO I
> LEAVE MINE ON ALL THE TIME, THE BULBS SEEM TO LAST JUST AS LONG. I LEARNED
> THIS FROM AN OLD TIMER.
If you want an alternating flash, I think NAPA sells a school bus flasher
for about $8.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Mpls RV Builder's Forum |
Today I am taking a day off work to contact vendors who might be interested
in involving themselves in the 3rd Annual RV Builders Forum to be held
Saturday, April 19 at Regent Aviation -- Downtown St. Paul airport.
Last year's Forum attracted approximately 170 RV enthusiasts from not only
the Twin Cities area but the surrounding states as well. This year's
format will include a schedule of speakers featuring a discussion with
Bill Benedict, general manager of Van's Aircraft. Bob Nuckolls will be
speaking (presumably about electrical systems). Larry Vetterman will be
our featured speaker for the dinner banquet.
If any of you are associated with an aviation vendor who would like to
be involved in the Forum this year, please let me know. Table spaces
is a nominal $20 for the day. If you cannot attend in person, perhaps
you would like to send some promotional material of your product or even
a floor sample.
We're also hoping to receive door prize donations. I would particularily
like an O-320 from Lycoming, but they haven't gotten back to me yet :-)
I can be reached via any of the methods listed in my .sig below.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NARCO AT 150 Transponder |
KEN
Ive got an AT-150 manual. I can Fax you the pin outs if you like.
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV6
N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>will be available in 180 to 300 hp, but the prototype is 200hp, 4 cyl
>opposed, air cooled, turbocharged, 2000 rpm, single lever FADEC
>controller, 3000 TBO. First flight is planned for May. Customer
>deliveries planned for mid-98. No estimate of price.
Interesting. Although one has to wonder how they managed to determine
TBO for an engine that hasn't even FLOWN yet.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nashville Tenn RVers |
I will be making a trip to Nashville Tennessee this coming weekend (March
8-11). Are there any RVers in the area that would let me come visit their
building or now flying projects? I've got my tail and wings done. Now
working on the fuse. Always anxious to see other projects. I'll have a
rental car and will be staying at the Opryland Hotel.
Ron Caldwell
RV6A N655RV -Reserved
801-968-2964
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. J. Price" <ar15(at)dial.pipex.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com [SMTP:aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: MEK et al
Just curious as to what you think those unique hazards might be. The MSDS
for MEK does not read sufficiently different in terms of hazards than other
organic solvents or blends having similarly high solvency.
I've been advised by an ophthalmologist (spelling?) friend that MEK has one
unique property. If it should come into contact with the cornea it will
cause progressive destruction of that part of the eye. The destruction is
untreatable and will result in the destruction of the cornea.
If I have to use MEK for any reason I use an old scuba diving mask as it's
the only protective covering I have that is glass and not plastic and
covers ALL the sides of my face so no splashes can get to my eyes.
I assume the ophthalmologist is technically correct.
Regards
Mal Price
RV6a wannabe, still clearing garage
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________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
While unpacking my new RV-6 quickbuild kit I noticed the following bad
rivet. Location is on the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer, 9th
rivet out from the center of the stab on the rivet line on the front
spar.
It looks like a dimpled rivet was set at 1 3/8" between rivets instead
of 1 1/4" like on all of the others. That in itself isn't my concern.
It looks like they tried to correct it by locating a COUNTERSUNK rivet
at 1 1/4". In doing so, the countersink cuts into and overlaps the
misplaced dimpled rivet.
I talked to Vans, they agreed that this was not a proper rivet, nor was
the repair considered an acceptable technique. Does this justify or
dictate a replacement of the stab?
Thanks in advance,
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
Please change "watts" to "amps" in the previous message from me about
flashing lights.
It's the same thing, but, you know, I hate making a mistake like that in
this forum.
Measure twice, cut once.
Read one's post twice, send once.
Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
>
>Listers:
>
> This concept may work for low wattage bulbs, but don't try it with 120
>Watt halogen bulbs (such as the Bob Olds ligh kit). These bulbs have
>operating currents of just over 10 Amps EACH, and an inrush current in
>excess of 3 times that.
An inrush current? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've always thought
of a light bulb as being a purely resistive load. There's an instant 10
watt load when you turn it on. No load when you turn it off. With two 10
watt lights alternating, you have pretty much a constant 10 watt load, with
some extremley short drops to zero between during switching.
>Most heavey duty flashers are designed for
>switching 4-5 small bulbs (ie, taillight variety).
>
Maybe for a simple turn signal, I haven't spec'd what's available. I do
know for a fact that police cars and ambulances have an alternate flash with
their headlights, exactly like I would like the landing lights to do.
>> IF YOU WANT YOUR LANDING LIGHTS OR NAV LIGHTS TO FLASH FOR INCREASED
>>RECOGNITION, SIMPLY BUY A THREE WAY SWITCH, AND A HEAVY DUTY TURN SIGNAL
>>FLASHER 12 VOLT, HOOK IT UP SO THAT THE LIGHT CAN BE EITHER IN STEADY ON
>>POSITION OR FLASH POSITION. WORKS GREAT.
I like the last statement - WORKS GREAT.
That's the bottom line, but YOU DON'T HAVE TO SHOUT TO MAKE YOUR POINT!!!
I'm thinking that I will install the prototype in my car to use when someone
I'm behind is driving too slowly in the fast lane.
>> MY BIGGEST FEAR IS MID-AIR SO I
>>LEAVE MINE ON ALL THE TIME, THE BULBS SEEM TO LAST JUST AS LONG. I
>>LEARNED THIS FROM AN OLD TIMER.
>
Thanks for the idea, Mr.?. I've run out of excuses for not finishing my
empanagge (empinagge, empanag, uh, tail stuff). I will be starting on the
wings shortly. Your timing is perfect.
Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bubba Joe <Bubbajoe(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nashville Tenn RVers |
Ron Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> I will be making a trip to Nashville Tennessee this coming weekend (March
> Ron,I am originally from N-ville....Across the river from Opryland is Cornielus
Fort airpark...lots of gen.a/c there not sure of RV's though...also Nashville
Int'l is about 4 miles south of there.Hope this helps!!
Richard Miller RV-4 empennage skinnin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>I've been advised by an ophthalmologist (spelling?) friend that MEK has one
>unique property. If it should come into contact with the cornea it will
>cause progressive destruction of that part of the eye. The destruction is
>untreatable and will result in the destruction of the cornea.
>Mal Price
Mal, Sure could be correct about MEK, although I've never heard this. I'm
sure it would be best to keep any chemical out of your eyes. Your eye
doctor could have confused MEK with MEKP but maybe not. I can tell you that
MEKP (peroxide ?), the catylist used in vinyl or polyester resin will cause
major damage to your eyes in about four seconds. I will also cause a burn
to the skin that will take a long time to heal. You must be very careful
dispensing this stuff. If you spill any, wipe it up and throw away the
towel or rag. Don't stick your hand in the garbage can. My partner on a
Glasair project spilled some MEKP on the work bench, grabbed a paper towel
and wiped it up and left it on the bench. Later, I picked it up to wipe
some resin off my hand (the paper towel looked unused) and got MEKP on my
hand. It took a couple of months for the burn to heal and for the next
couple of years, every once in a while, the area would become red and
irritated again. When I think of what could have happened to my eyes
because of a simple mistake-----
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Flashing Landing Lights |
>> If you'd like to flash a landing light, just buy a three way switch and wire
it
>> to power the lamp either on all the time or through an automotive signal
flasher . . .
>>>This concept may work for low wattage bulbs, but don't try it with 120
>>>Watt halogen bulbs (such as the Bob Olds ligh kit). These bulbs have
>>>operating currents of just over 10 Amps EACH, and an inrush current in
>>>excess of 3 times that.
>An inrush current? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've always
>thought of a light bulb as being a purely resistive load. There's an
>instant 10 watt load when you turn it on. No load when you turn it off.
>With two 10 watt lights alternating, you have pretty much a constant
>10 watt load, with some extremley short drops to zero between during switching.
Purely resistive, yes . . . but with a very strong positive temperature
coeffecient. This is easily demonstrated by measuring the cold resistance
of any lamp. For example, I just pulled one from the drawer (NEDA #67)
and it measures 1.8 ohms in my hand. If you applied 14 volts to this
lamp, the initial reading would have to be 14.0/1.8 or 7.8 amps. However,
when I illuminate this lamp with 14.0 volts, my power suppy sez it's
drawing 0.6 amps . . . about 1/10th the "inrush" value.
>>Most heavey duty flashers are designed for switching 4-5 small bulbs
>>(ie, taillight variety).
True, even the so called "heavy" duty are unsuited for flashing
100 watt lamps. . .
>Maybe for a simple turn signal, I haven't spec'd what's available. I
>do know for a fact that police cars and ambulances have an alternate
>flash with their headlights, exactly like I would like the landing lights to
do.
Another rv-list reader suggested school bus flashers . . I belive these DO
have relays for handling increased loads. I also offer a kit of solid
state flasher and auxiliary relay. Drop me an SASE for the schematic
and bill of materials.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nashville Tenn RVers |
Ron,
I would be happy for you to come visit me and my RV-6 project. I've just
recently completed riveting my wing spars and am in the process of jigging
for attaching the ribs & skins. My home number is 615-794-4170. I live
about 20 miles due south of Nashville off interstate 65 in Thompsons Station.
I work Sat. a.m. but am home shortly after noon and usually go straight to
the garage to work. Give me a call. Look forward to chatting with you.
Bob Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com [SMTP:aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com]
>Subject: Re: RV-List: MEK et al
>Attachment converted: Active:WINMAIL.DAT (????/----) (000067E4)
Okay, you big blue drivers out there, what's with the WINMAIL.DAT
attachment on this message and several others that I have received? When I
open it on my Mac all I get a a spattering of text in a bunch of jibberish
and hi ASCI characters.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nashville Tenn RVers |
Ron Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> I will be making a trip to Nashville Tennessee this coming weekend (March
> 8-11). Are there any RVers in the area that would let me come visit their
> building or now flying projects? I've got my tail and wings done. Now
> working on the fuse. Always anxious to see other projects. I'll have a
> rental car and will be staying at the Opryland Hotel.
>
> Ron Caldwell
> RV6A N655RV -Reserved
> 801-968-2964
> rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
RON
We have 12 RV's in construction now, give me a call when you get into
town!!! JOHN MCMAHON
615-452-8742
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
> An inrush current? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've always thought
> of a light bulb as being a purely resistive load.
Mike, I believe the gentlman is right. Bob N. will doubtless settle this
once and for all but my recollection is that there is a significantly larger
inrush current until the filament temp comes up to incandesence and
stabilizes there. Most conductors demonstrate a direct relationship between
temp and resistance (nonlinear at very cold temps for superconductors, of
course.) So I think the inrush is there to be reckoned with, although it may
not be of practical concern, as brief as it is. But don't take my word for
it; I don't handle electrons for a living, just as an occasional hobby.
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | alternator questions |
After doing some research through the rv-list archives, I decided to
buy an alternator from a salvage yard off of an '89 Mazda 323. This is a
very compact, 60 amp alternator, that it seems several other builders
are using with good service. One thing that I noticed, however, is that
the cooling fan is designed to rotate in the opposite direction from how
it will be installed on my IO-320. I did some digging through my books
by Tony Bengilis, and found some pictures of engine installations that
show the alternators. They are also rotating in the opposite direction
from how the fan was designed. I plan on running a blast tube to the
rear of the alternator to aid in cooling, but will the cooling fans
still draw air if they are running backwards? I know that electrically
the alternator doesn't care which way it turns, but I'm just curious if
anyone else has noticed this.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
<< This concept may work for low wattage bulbs, but don't try it with 120
Watt halogen bulbs (such as the Bob Olds ligh kit). These bulbs have
operating currents of just over 10 Amps EACH, and an inrush current in
excess of 3 times that. Most heavey duty flashers are designed for
switching 4-5 small bulbs (ie, taillight variety).
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV >>
Sorry to differ with you Fred but I've got a Napa Auto parts brand school bus
flasher unit on my 4,with two of Bob Olds "BIG" halogen light kits.
I use the flasher on every takeoff and when entering the pattern to land &
don't turn
it off untill clearing the runway.
Been doing this for the last 600 hours.....still trouble free...cost? a
switch & the
flasher about 10.00.
Jim Wendel ... RV4(at)aol.com
N43RV
900 fun hrs. so far
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator questions |
e cooling fan is designed to rotate in the opposite direction from how
>it will be installed on my IO-320. I did some digging through my books
>by Tony Bengilis, and found some pictures of engine installations that
>show the alternators. They are also rotating in the opposite direction
When mine failed (no fan had blast tube w/ external regulator), I found one
with identical mounting, but internal reg. I asked the rebuild shop where I
found it to remove the fan. He first put it on his test set & spun it both
ways. It "sucked" one way and "blew" the other. It's been running about a
year now flawlessly.
Charlie England
RV-4 N4375J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
>
>An inrush current? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've always thought
>of a light bulb as being a purely resistive load. There's an instant 10
>watt load when you turn it on. No load when you turn it off. With two 10
>watt lights alternating, you have pretty much a constant 10 watt load, with
>some extremley short drops to zero between during switching.
There is a much higher inrush current. As an electronics tech, I don't
design em, I just fix em, so I can't give formulas off the top of my head,
but all conductors have a "temperature coeficient". this means that
resistance changes with temperature. Most coeficients are positive, meaning
low resistance (and therefore high current) cold, and higher resistance
(therefore lower current) hot. One of the reasons "slow blow" fuses exist.
Unsolicited additional info: some things have a negative temperature
coeficient. Most semiconductors (transistors, diodes, solid state relays,
etc.) fall into this category. This is the biggest reason temp. control is
so important with things like amplifiers, radio transmitters, altenators,
etc. As temps in these devices rise, resistance drops, current rises,
causing more heat, causing resistance to drop, .....fried diodes in your
alternator.
Sure hope I got the positives & negatives right.....
Charlie England
RV-4 N4375J
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Accessory Gaskets |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
I would appreciate advice on the appropriate gaskets to use in mounting
the following accessories on my O-320 E2D.
1) B&C Lightweight Starter
2) Pelican 55 Amp Alternator to a Boss Mount
3) MA-4SPA Carburetor to Engine, and
4) Van's RV-4 Airbox kit to carburetor.
In some instances, I presume there are standard manufacturers parts.
However, I would be particularly interested in knowing if the required
gaskets can be made from more readily available local sources.
Thanks
Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto ron.taborek(at)flight642.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
<< Been doing this for the last 600 hours.....still trouble free...cost? a
switch & the
flasher about 10.00.
Jim Wendel ... RV4(at)aol.com
N43RV
900 fun hrs. so far >>
Jim:
This is good news! How about some part numbers?
900 hrs? Are you trying to wear the thing out? ;-)
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Lawson" <lscott(at)erinet.com> |
I would get the affected parts replaced. Over time, as the horizontal goes
thru in-flight stress, a crack will form between the two rivet holes. Not
a good condition for a spar. The other option would be to put a repair on
the area right now. In this case, the damage needs to be cut out to
relieve stress in the area. Even without rivets in the affected holes the
material will still crack over time and you want to control the damage.
Keep everything smooth and round and no less than 2D spacing between
fasteners (4-6D min preferred). Good luck.
----------
> From: Glenn & Judi <anet-chi.com!flyers(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 1 Bad Rivet
> Date: Thursday, March 06, 1997 7:20 PM
>
>
> Hi,
>
> While unpacking my new RV-6 quickbuild kit I noticed the following bad
> rivet. Location is on the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer, 9th
> rivet out from the center of the stab on the rivet line on the front
> spar.
>
> It looks like a dimpled rivet was set at 1 3/8" between rivets instead
> of 1 1/4" like on all of the others. That in itself isn't my concern.
> It looks like they tried to correct it by locating a COUNTERSUNK rivet
> at 1 1/4". In doing so, the countersink cuts into and overlaps the
> misplaced dimpled rivet.
>
> I talked to Vans, they agreed that this was not a proper rivet, nor was
> the repair considered an acceptable technique. Does this justify or
> dictate a replacement of the stab?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
> -Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nashville Tenn RVers |
aol.com!RDNFLY(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Ron,
> I would be happy for you to come visit me and my RV-6 project. I've just
> recently completed riveting my wing spars and am in the process of jigging
> for attaching the ribs & skins. My home number is 615-794-4170. I live
> about 20 miles due south of Nashville off interstate 65 in Thompsons Station.
> I work Sat. a.m. but am home shortly after noon and usually go straight to
> the garage to work. Give me a call. Look forward to chatting with you.
> Bob Nelson
BOB
I would like to welcome you to our EAA 863 meeting next thur at
the lebenan airport at 1730 ,we have many RV'S in differant stages
CALL ME IF WISH @ 615-452-8742
JOHN MCMAHON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: T Hangar for rent |
T Hanger for rent in the Ft Worth Tx area at Hics Ariport (T67) for more
info call George Orndorff at 817-439-3280
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Greening <jsg(at)sunset.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tomdalrymple(at)VNET.IBM.COM |
The Alternator fan that is just behind the pulley is a centrifugal style fan,
and will work no matter which direction it it turned. The efficiency will not
be as good, but the fan will do fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
>
> >I've been advised by an ophthalmologist (spelling?) friend that MEK has one
> >unique property. If it should come into contact with the cornea it will
> >cause progressive destruction of that part of the eye. The destruction is
> >untreatable and will result in the destruction of the cornea.
>
> >Mal Price
>
> Mal, Sure could be correct about MEK, although I've never heard this. I'm
> sure it would be best to keep any chemical out of your eyes. Your eye
> doctor could have confused MEK with MEKP but maybe not. I can tell you that
> MEKP (peroxide ?), the catylist used in vinyl or polyester resin will cause
> major damage to your eyes in about four seconds. I will also cause a burn
> to the skin that will take a long time to heal. You must be very careful
> dispensing this stuff. If you spill any, wipe it up and throw away the
> towel or rag. Don't stick your hand in the garbage can. My partner on a
> Glasair project spilled some MEKP on the work bench, grabbed a paper towel
> and wiped it up and left it on the bench. Later, I picked it up to wipe
> some resin off my hand (the paper towel looked unused) and got MEKP on my
> hand. It took a couple of months for the burn to heal and for the next
> couple of years, every once in a while, the area would become red and
> irritated again. When I think of what could have happened to my eyes
> because of a simple mistake-----
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
Bob, I think you've got it right. MEK and MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone
peroxide) are not at all the same. They are both clear liquids -the
similarity stops there. I have used MEK for years without gloves, a
respirator, goggles etc. with no apparent effects. I have gotten a
small splash in the eye at least once that I can remember. The only
effect was about 10 seconds or so (about the time it took for the stuff
to evaporate from my eye) of somewhat painful burning. I now take more
precautions with MEK mainly because of the supposed effects it can have
on the liver when absorbed through the skin -although this stuff
evaporates so quickly I find it hard to believe that much of it could
have an opportunity to do so unless you were working with your hands
submerged in it.
MEKP on the other hand is completely EVIL. Every warning and tip you
gave is valid. I learned about this stuff during an advanced composites
class at Purdue and we were taught to FEAR MEKP! It will cause
blindness. It does not evaporate as does MEK so it will remain on rags,
fingers (NEVER rub your eye!) and surfaces. Wear gloves,
goggles/glasses, and throw the rags out.
One more reason to stay away from plastic airplanes ;)
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flashing Landing Lights |
> have relays for handling increased loads. I also offer a kit of solid
> state flasher and auxiliary relay. Drop me an SASE for the schematic
> and bill of materials.
> Bob . . .
> AeroElectric Connection
Fellow RVers,
I'm using one of Bob's flash units on my RV-6 and it works great. I
burning 100 watt, halogen H-3 bulbs and fly with the lights flashing all of
the time.
Bob Skinner (not an employee, just a satisfied customer) RV-6
BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
Does some one have any information about ELLISON fuel injection or carburetor
for my RV how about fuel consumption and are they worth the rpice they cost
Thanks Mike RV6
Frankfurt Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS |
<<
<< Been doing this for the last 600 hours.....still trouble free...cost? a
switch & the
flasher about 10.00.
Jim Wendel ... RV4(at)aol.com
N43RV
900 fun hrs. so far >>
Jim:
This is good news! How about some part numbers?
900 hrs? Are you trying to wear the thing out? ;-)
Check six!
Mark >>
Hi Mark.....
I'll be out at the hangar this weekend ...I'll get that part # & post it
here.
900 hrs.TT on the plane only works out to about 130 per year,wish it was
double that.
Jim
N43RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
| Subject: | Wig-wags/NEG. temp. coeffecient (was FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS) |
Two items:
-I'm hoping someone can refresh my memory. Please excuse my lack of
technical vocabulary. I recently read something about adding a
component to the light circuit, a component with a NEGATIVE temperature
coeffecient, to smooth out the current. Sounded like it would add life
to the light bulbs... anyone recognize this and know the details?
-When I worked for the Sheriff's dept. and at a hospital in security, we
referred to the flashing (alternating) highbeams as wig-wags. I also
think the switching equipment was sold as such. They would seem to be
ideal for a two landing light system, being designed for just such a
purpose. Any local law enforcement maintenance dept. should be able to
direct you to a source.
EB #80131 (empennage - checked Oxford American =) )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Accessory Gaskets |
You DO NOT use any gaskets under the starter or under the alternator.
There is nothing to seal so no need for a gasket.
On the starter, you sometimes have to use a metal shim if the spacing
is too tight on the starter gear teeth to the starter ring gear.
That is normally not needed however. Instructions should come with
the starter to check this. If the gear on the starter pulls out and
engages OK and then pulls back when released, it should be OK.
You need a gasket between the carb and the oil sump. Just see the
O320 parts book.
There may be a gasket on the bottome of the carb, i can't remember.
Call Mattituck and ask for parts. They can give you the PN and
ship you the gaskets. I get all my parts from them these days for Lyc. engines.
I don't have their phone# here but look it up in trade-a-plane.
They are in PA.
Herman
>
> I would appreciate advice on the appropriate gaskets to use in mounting
> the following accessories on my O-320 E2D.
>
> 1) B&C Lightweight Starter
>
> 2) Pelican 55 Amp Alternator to a Boss Mount
>
> 3) MA-4SPA Carburetor to Engine, and
>
> 4) Van's RV-4 Airbox kit to carburetor.
>
> In some instances, I presume there are standard manufacturers parts.
> However, I would be particularly interested in knowing if the required
> gaskets can be made from more readily available local sources.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto ron.taborek(at)flight642.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | AeroElectric Connection?? |
Does anyone have the address, phone, or e-mail address for Bob at
AeroElectric Connection.
I like his ideas and the informative way he writes.
Warren Gretz
RV-6 N25WG
gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: NARCO AT 150 Transponder |
I sent a request in recently for info on the Narco transponder.
It was about that time that my sevice provider decided to cut off my email =
for a while.
If anyone sent a note to the list offering assistance and got no reply from=
me, then thanks...it was because I saw no rv-list stuff for a while.
Bill Mahoney has kindly offerd to fax me the info I requested.
Thanks Bill.
Ken RV6A Flying to Sun 'n Fun
This message sent using the FirstClass SMTP/NNTP Gateway for Mac OS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
<
Is anyone out there building or flying an RV with fuel injection on it?
I want to put fuel injection on my RV and am in need of advice.
<
Glenn, I have a flying '6A with a Bendix injected Lycoming 360.
I (as others do also) suffer from mild fuel vaporisation when the engine is=
heat soaked. This tends to occur only at idle when the engine has run for =
a while without sufficient cooling flow through to the accessories area of =
the cowl. It dissapears when the rpm is increased as the fuel flow cools th=
e components.
I would recommend several things.
1. Plumb your tanks for fuel return lines. You may not need them, but its a=
darn sight easier blocking them than having to put them in after the fact.=
2. Keep as many of your fuel system components out of the engine compartmen=
t as you can. You will need a high pressure electric pump. Some folks have =
put this inside the cockpit. In Canada we also require gascolators...they a=
lso can be a source of heat soak.
3. Route your fuel lines away from any heat source. If necessary, use a hea=
t shield on the exhaust pipe to protect the fuel line (which should be fire=
sleeved).
4. Another typical problem people have is starting an injected engine after=
its become hot. There is a gadget called (I think) a vapour relief valve, =
which is used to purge the line of hot fuel back to the tank prior to a hot=
start..another reason to plumb those tanks.
Ken RV6A Flying
j.ken_hitchmough=40mail.magic.ca
(905) 508 1935
(416) 973 2681 (days)
This message sent using the FirstClass SMTP/NNTP Gateway for Mac OS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DGreen9032(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nashville Tenn RVers |
You might want to give Dave Hudgins a call 615-595-5766 he lives just
outside nashville and puts on an RV fly-in the first week of Oct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
I've managed to get a small amount of epoxy resin on my canopy plexi.
Of course, I didn't notice it until it had hardened. It's kind of a thin
smudge. Any ideas on how to remove it safely? Will Micromesh take
something like this out?
Thanks,
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Accessory Gaskets |
<< I would appreciate advice on the appropriate gaskets to use in mounting
the following accessories on my O-320 E2D.>>
<<1) B&C Lightweight Starter>>
none required, hard mount to pad
<<2) Pelican 55 Amp Alternator to a Boss Mount>>
none required, hard mount to boss
<<3) MA-4SPA Carburetor to Engine>>
required but don't have the actual P/N handy
<<4) Van's RV-4 Airbox kit to carburetor. >>
make your own from rubberized cork or similar
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Ed Bundy wrote:
>
>
> >will be available in 180 to 300 hp, but the prototype is 200hp, 4 cyl
> >opposed, air cooled, turbocharged, 2000 rpm, single lever FADEC
> >controller, 3000 TBO. First flight is planned for May. Customer
> >deliveries planned for mid-98. No estimate of price.
>
> Interesting. Although one has to wonder how they managed to determine
> TBO for an engine that hasn't even FLOWN yet.
>
> Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
> ebundy(at)juno.com
Sorry, the article said "3000 hour proposed TBO". I was paraphrasing the
article and trying to keep it short & concise.
Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns (was fuel injection) |
<< 1. Plumb your tanks for fuel return lines. You may not need them, but its
a darn sight easier blocking them than having to put them in after the fact.
>>
Ken-
How is this done in order to return the fuel to the tank from which it came?
Is there a dual path fuel selector valve that is used or what. I understand
the theory of the return concept and the benefits, I just don't understand
the practical execution of the concept.
Please articulate the details of your system.
Interested,
Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
I am still in my testing stage but here are some figures that I have so far.
Flat out top speed in level flight for my RV-6A at 4500 ft MSL, total temp 4
degrees C is 201MPH. My RPM is prop overspeed at 2640 and MP is 32.0, full
rich mixture. Fuel flow is 9.6 GPH for 21.88 miles per gallon. At 2400 RPM
and 29.3 MP and leaned to engine roughness and back to smooth, I get 167 MPH
and 6.5 GPH or 25.65 miles per gallon. At 2200 RPM and 27.3 MP and leaned, I
get 150 MPH and 4.0 GPH or 37.38 miles per gallon. I had one data point at
2200 RPM that gave me over 160 MPH which would result in 40 miles per
gallon! I have never been able to get a bendix or marvel carb to lean back
to these fuel flows. For some reason, my engine does not run smooth at 2300
RPM so I don't have data points for that setting. I think that the Ellison
has a more even fuel distribution with allows more aggressive leaning. I
have never been able to use the EGT to lean consistently so I use the old
fashioned technique I learned before I had an EGT sensor. I have gotten to
the point that I can set my Rocky Mountain Micro Monitor up to read fuel flow
when I lean and just pull the mixture back to a set fuel flow rather than
lean to roughness and return to smooth operation. The Ellison is much less
prone to icing than a regular carb. It should be noted that I have the Van's
Filtered Air Box. You can see by the manifold pressures that there really is
a pressure recovery. I get almost 2" over ambient pressure at all altitudes
when I get up to speed. I have the Sensenich metal prop that Van's sells
with 78" of pitch. I think that I could go faster with the 79" pitch but
would be burning gas like it was going out of style. I much prefer the 6.5
GPH rate when I am cruising. I''ve got a lot more testing to do but these
are some preliminary figures. I have found my indicated airspeed to be
within about 2 MPH of the calibrated airspeed at several data points so have
stopped checking it. The error is too small for me to be bothered. What
really counts is ground speed anyway.
While I am at it, I have a comfession. On my third flight, I had my test
card all made up and planned to check several things. When I got airborne,
it was such a beautiful day, blue skies, smooth air, no wind, the kind of day
we all dream about. I put the test card aside and spent an hour just doing
aerobatics. The data collection could wait. So much for "Plan your flight
and fly your plan." Boy was it ever fun. Now back to data collection.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage sealing |
I am looking for a way to seal the flap rod hole in the fuselage in a RV-4
. I have the rest of the fuselage sealed pretty good and now have a good
amount of air coming in through this opening. Any suggestions would be
helpful. Thank you
Tony Partain
N17PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
> It should be noted that I have the Van's
> Filtered Air Box. You can see by the manifold pressures that there really
> is
> a pressure recovery. I get almost 2" over ambient pressure at all
altitudes
> when I get up to speed.
Wow!... The manual says to expect the pressure recovery to cancel out the
friction losses in the induction/filter system, so this exceeds expectations-
great!
> I have the Sensenich metal prop that Van's sells
> with 78" of pitch.
Now tell us what engine you have, Jim. And please say it's a 150 hp O-320!!
Bill Boyd P.S. the newsletter arrived; thanks. I see I'm "published"
now : -)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shadowed Today By a Berkut Canard - RV6A pulled a Top Gun |
Maneuver
<< Now if Van would only design that RV8 retractable, with the 250 HP ...
Scott Johnson
N345RV RV6A 20 hours Total Time and Building Fast
>>
Did you leave some antenna's on the outside of your RV? Less Drag is better
than more power, you don't have to carry more fuel.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
>
>I am still in my testing stage but here are some figures that I have so far.
> Flat out top speed in level flight for my RV-6A at 4500 ft MSL, total temp 4
>degrees C is 201MPH. My RPM is prop overspeed at 2640 and MP is 32.0, full
>rich mixture. Fuel flow is 9.6 GPH for 21.88 miles per gallon. At 2400 RPM
>and 29.3 MP and leaned to engine roughness and back to smooth, I get 167 MPH
>and 6.5 GPH or 25.65 miles per gallon. At 2200 RPM and 27.3 MP and leaned, I
>get 150 MPH and 4.0 GPH or 37.38 miles per gallon. I had one data point at
>2200 RPM that gave me over 160 MPH which would result in 40 miles per
>gallon! I have never been able to get a bendix or marvel carb to lean back
>to these fuel flows. For some reason, my engine does not run smooth at 2300
>RPM so I don't have data points for that setting. I think that the Ellison
>has a more even fuel distribution with allows more aggressive leaning. I
>have never been able to use the EGT to lean consistently so I use the old
>fashioned technique I learned before I had an EGT sensor. I have gotten to
>the point that I can set my Rocky Mountain Micro Monitor up to read fuel flow
>when I lean and just pull the mixture back to a set fuel flow rather than
>lean to roughness and return to smooth operation. The Ellison is much less
>prone to icing than a regular carb. It should be noted that I have the Van's
>Filtered Air Box. You can see by the manifold pressures that there really is
>a pressure recovery. I get almost 2" over ambient pressure at all altitudes
>when I get up to speed. I have the Sensenich metal prop that Van's sells
>with 78" of pitch. I think that I could go faster with the 79" pitch but
>would be burning gas like it was going out of style. I much prefer the 6.5
>GPH rate when I am cruising. I''ve got a lot more testing to do but these
>are some preliminary figures. I have found my indicated airspeed to be
>within about 2 MPH of the calibrated airspeed at several data points so have
>stopped checking it. The error is too small for me to be bothered. What
>really counts is ground speed anyway.
>
>While I am at it, I have a comfession. On my third flight, I had my test
>card all made up and planned to check several things. When I got airborne,
>it was such a beautiful day, blue skies, smooth air, no wind, the kind of day
>we all dream about. I put the test card aside and spent an hour just doing
>aerobatics. The data collection could wait. So much for "Plan your flight
>and fly your plan." Boy was it ever fun. Now back to data collection.
>
>Jim Cone
>jamescone(at)aol.com
Jim, these numbers look pretty good. I still think you have a problem with
the mp gauge but the rest of them look real good. I think the prop is
pitched correct. At this altitude (4500), you cannot run at full throttle
because you will be over 75%, so if you pull back slightly on the throttle,
the rpm's will come down below 2600. I will get back to you later after
reviewing your data some more. Bill
PS: Somehow I have two folders (Maybe I have a split personality) in my
computer with incoming messages. Some of yours are in one folder, and some
are in the other folder. You should have two messages from me tonight, one
from each of the two Bill Benedicts.
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
Mike,
When I first bought my Ellison I was worried and could find little
information on the unit other than what the company gave me. If you ask vans
they seem sceptical. I have been running mine now for almost 3 years and have
365 hrs on it. It is an EFS-4 mouunted on an 0320-E2A with a High compression
piston set up. The throttle response is phenominal. The fuel burn is
deffinatly less. I travel with other RV's all over the country IE same power
settings like engines and so forth. It seems I always take the least fuel at
the pump. As a general rule I cruise at 6500 ft msl here in colorado. My fuel
burn solo is usually 6.8 gallons per hour. If I take a passenger I can add
one more gallon per hour. AT 10,000 ft msl solo I burn as little as 6.2 gph.
By the way these are figured at 2550RPM. I have only had one problem to date
and it really wasnt a problem. The airplane did not want to idle properly. I
contacted Ellison and they informed me my idle screw needed readjusting. They
were right a quick adjustment and no problems since. I have not had any of
the problems that van's describes other than sensitivity to leaning. The
Ellison is more susseptable to vapor lock than a standard carbuerator, but
other than heat soaking on the ground after a run I have had no problems. The
electric boost pump has always been enough to compensate for any heat soaking
. I hope this info is of some help. If you already have a carb you might not
want to spend the money on the Ellison. I didnt have the carb so the choice
was easier for me. I will say that If I save 1 Gallon per hour for 2000 hrs
it will have paid for its self. Even at half a gallon per hour it will pay
two thirds of the cost.
Good Luck
Ryan
RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dieck(at)apexcomm.net (Robert Dieck) |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
>While I am at it, I have a comfession. On my third flight, I had my test
>card all made up and planned to check several things. When I got airborne,
>it was such a beautiful day, blue skies, smooth air, no wind, the kind of day
>we all dream about. I put the test card aside and spent an hour just doing
>aerobatics. The data collection could wait. So much for "Plan your flight
>and fly your plan." Boy was it ever fun. Now back to data collection.
>
>Jim Cone
>jamescone(at)aol.com
>
>
Jim, A pilot with your experience should know better than deviating from
your flight plan. Next flight you just have to write "fun time" into your
flight plan. ;)
Bob
The Airplane Factory
Robert/Tammie Dieck
Wausau WI USA
dieck(at)dwave.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
aol.com!JamesCone(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I am still in my testing stage but here are some figures that I have so far.
> Flat out top speed in level flight for my RV-6A at 4500 ft MSL, total temp 4
> degrees C is 201MPH. My RPM is prop overspeed at 2640 and MP is 32.0, full
> rich mixture. Fuel flow is 9.6 GPH for 21.88 miles per gallon. At 2400 RPM
> and 29.3 MP and leaned to engine roughness and back to smooth, I get 167 MPH
> and 6.5 GPH or 25.65 miles per gallon. At 2200 RPM and 27.3 MP and leaned, I
> get 150 MPH and 4.0 GPH or 37.38 miles per gallon.
Jim,
I find your MP readings suspect. At 4,500', the static air pressure
should
only be somewhere near 25.5". Your reading of 32" seems way too high
even
considering some ram recovery. Is the 201MPH IAS or TAS?
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
aol.com!JamesCone(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I am still in my testing stage but here are some figures that I have so far.
> Flat out top speed in level flight for my RV-6A at 4500 ft MSL, total temp 4
> degrees C is 201MPH. My RPM is prop overspeed at 2640 and MP is 32.0, full
> rich mixture. Fuel flow is 9.6 GPH for 21.88 miles per gallon. At 2400 RPM
> and 29.3 MP and leaned to engine roughness and back to smooth, I get 167 MPH
> and 6.5 GPH or 25.65 miles per gallon. At 2200 RPM and 27.3 MP and leaned, I
> get 150 MPH and 4.0 GPH or 37.38 miles per gallon. I had one data point at
> 2200 RPM that gave me over 160 MPH which would result in 40 miles per
> gallon! I have never been able to get a bendix or marvel carb to lean back
> to these fuel flows. For some reason, my engine does not run smooth at 2300
> RPM so I don't have data points for that setting. I think that the Ellison
> has a more even fuel distribution with allows more aggressive leaning. I
> have never been able to use the EGT to lean consistently so I use the old
> fashioned technique I learned before I had an EGT sensor. I have gotten to
> the point that I can set my Rocky Mountain Micro Monitor up to read fuel flow
> when I lean and just pull the mixture back to a set fuel flow rather than
> lean to roughness and return to smooth operation. The Ellison is much less
> prone to icing than a regular carb. It should be noted that I have the Van's
> Filtered Air Box. You can see by the manifold pressures that there really is
> a pressure recovery. I get almost 2" over ambient pressure at all altitudes
> when I get up to speed. I have the Sensenich metal prop that Van's sells
> with 78" of pitch. I think that I could go faster with the 79" pitch but
> would be burning gas like it was going out of style. I much prefer the 6.5
> GPH rate when I am cruising. I''ve got a lot more testing to do but these
> are some preliminary figures. I have found my indicated airspeed to be
> within about 2 MPH of the calibrated airspeed at several data points so have
> stopped checking it. The error is too small for me to be bothered. What
> really counts is ground speed anyway.
>
****snip***
> Jim Cone
> jamescone(at)aol.com
Hi Jim
Sounds like you are having fun with your airplane, One question,
have you check your MP gauge? I'am not a expert but those numbers
just don't sound right according to the guys who have Ellisons
around here, plus at that altitude I'am not sure you can get 32
inches of MP. One quick and dirty way to get a rough idea of the
accurarcy is to compare your MP quage with your altimeter pressure
setting set to airport elev.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
>
>I am still in my testing stage but here are some figures that I have so
far.
> Flat out top speed in level flight for my RV-6A at 4500 ft MSL, total
temp 4
>degrees C is 201MPH. My RPM is prop overspeed at 2640 and MP is 32.0,
full
>rich mixture. Fuel flow is 9.6 GPH for 21.88 miles per gallon. At 2400
RPM
>Jim Cone
>jamescone(at)aol.com
>
>
Jim,
Like the song goes: "I've never had too much fun".
Your most recent post
sounds like an exception. Oh well, the skies will get clear and blue in
this part of the country soon (Northeast).
Now, down to business. With the setup you have, what kind of climb rates
are you getting? What is the problem at 2300 RPM? Is it some type of
dynamic vibration or engine roughness? Please stop having fun, and let's
get down to business.
your curious and envious reader,
Lou Willig <
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | alternator questions |
-I've been reading your book, and I had a question
-about overvoltage protection for alternators. I
-would like to buy the alternator and regulator
-from B&C, but the prices bring tears to my eyes.
But know also that in over 1000 alternators sold
by B&C in 5-7 years, NOT ONE alternator has
been returned for service due to wear-out or
defect failures. Most have been returned for
bearing replacment (owner washed the grease
out with high pressure engine spray) or physical damage.
Any alternator pulled from a salvage yard should
be modified to remove the built in regulator
so that effective ov protection and regulation
can be used. B&C also balances their rotors to
very tight tolerances compared to stock automotive.
This action accounts for the very long life
(don't bang the bearings) and cool running (keep
the speed up). B&C's alternators include all
mounting hardware and belt.
-With any other alternator, couldn't I just put a
-large capacity zener diode, say 16 or 18 volts,
-and 50 or 100 watt capacity, on the supply to
-the regulator, between it and a 5 amp breaker?
Yes, this system WAS certified in the Grumman
AA1 Yankee and perhaps other airframes. The
system used a single, 1-watt zener that was
expected to fail shorted in an ov condition and
crowbar the breaker open. Obviously, this
is a one-time operation that requires replacement
of the zener along with the failed regulator.
-This way if the alternator runs away, the zener
-avalanches and pops the breaker, shutting it down?
-The zener could be mounted on some type of small
-heat sink, although it wouldn't need it untill
-it's voltage threshold was reached. I recall
-going to a builders meeting a couple of years ago,
-and seeing some guys there tinkering with just
-such an arrangement.
The problem I have with it is timing. The
fault current flowing in the zener is much
lower than with the SCR crowbar system I show
in the book . . . With the zener system,
the alternator doesn't shut down until after
ther breaker opens. With the SCR crowbar
system the alternator shutdown is initiated
before the breaker opens. We're talking about
hundreds of milliseconds difference here. Until
I can find a simpler way to do it faster, I'll
have to stay with the SCR crowbar recommendation
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
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| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | alternator cooling |
-I decided to buy an alternator from a salvage yard off of
-an '89 Mazda 323. This is a very compact, 60 amp
-alternator, that it seems several other builders are
-using with good service.
However, it DOES have a built in regulator, how
do you plan to install ov protection?
One thing that I noticed, however, is that the cooling
fan is designed to rotate in the opposite direction
from how it will be installed on my IO-320. I did some
digging through my books by Tony Bengilis, and found
some pictures of engine installations that show the
alternators. They are also rotating in the opposite
direction from how the fan was designed.
*Alternator fan that is just behind the pulley is a
*centrifugal style fan, and will work no matter which
*direction it it turned. The efficiency will not be
*as good, but the fan will do fine.
This is correct. Airflow is only slightly reduced
by operating it backwards and in cruising flight,
rpms are plenty high enough for cooling.
-I plan on running a blast tube to the rear of the
-alternator to aid in cooling, but will the cooling
-fans still draw air if they are running backwards?
The time when you're most likely to be short on
cooling is taxi with all the goodies on. Low rpm
and NO blast. In flight, cooling the alternator
on a Lycoming shouldn't require a blast tube unless,
as some misinformed builders have done, you've
removed the wrong-rotation fan under the notion that
it's better to not have one than to operate it the
wrong direction.
Another myth running around out there is that one
should slow down the Lycoming installation by
installing a larger pulley . . . please don't
do this. It degrades cooling and makes field
currents run higher which casues more heat.
B&C runs their alternators at over 10,000 rpm in
flight . . . less than 1% returns in 7 years and
all returns were owner induced damage.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
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| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | wig-wags, et. als. |
-I'm hoping someone can refresh my memory. Please excuse my lack of
-technical vocabulary. I recently read something about adding a
-component to the light circuit, a component with a NEGATIVE temperature
-coeffecient, to smooth out the current. Sounded like it would add life
-to the light bulbs... anyone recognize this and know the details?
Sure, Keystone Carbon Company and others offer what are called
surge limiters, inrush limiters, etc. The do indeed have a higher
resistance at room temp than at, say 100C. For a case in point,
the Keystone Carbon CL-100 is rated for service in circuits
needing 10 amps or thereabouts. I just hooked one to a power supply
and while swishing the critter in room temp water, the voltage
across the device at 3.0 amps of current was about 2 volts for
a resistance of about 1.5 ohms. Out in the air, it warmed up
to a point where the voltage dropped to less than .8 volts. With
10 amps of current flowing, it's designed to drop .5 volt or less.
This kind of device has obvious application in softening the
inrush current in landing light circuits. NOT useful if you're
going to flash the lamps . . . these devices have a time constant
of 2-5 seconds. They would not cool off quickly enough to work
effectively for the next on-cycle. However, for simple landing,
position and taxi light systems, an inrush limiter can help
increase lamp and switch life. You can achieve the same effect
with a keepwarm system (described in chapter 11 of the 'Connection)
that maintains a lamp filament at about 2-5% of normal power rating
when OFF. This puts the lamp well up on the positive tempco curve
and eliminates inrush. ALSO, it maintains the tungstent filament
above it's brittle-to-ductile transition temperature . . . much more
resistant to vibration. Keep warm sytems are equally applicable to
flashed -and- continuously switched circuits.
-When I worked for the Sheriff's dept. and at a hospital in security, we
-referred to the flashing (alternating) highbeams as wig-wags. I also
-think the switching equipment was sold as such. They would seem to be
-ideal for a two landing light system, being designed for just such a
-purpose. Any local law enforcement maintenance dept. should be able to
-direct you to a source.
"Wig-wags" is a fugitive term left over from railroad signaling days
of the early 1900's. Before the alternate flashign lights became
popular, a single light on a swinging arm was used to warn oncoming
motorists at grade crossings. Some of these curiosities can still
be found in Wisconsin and Michigan.
and yes, emergency vehicle supply houses stock heavy duty flashers.
One can build a system using a fat relay from Radio Shack (275-226)
a 555 timer chip (276-1723), 1uF cap (272-1434), n-channel fet
(276-2072) and a few misc parts.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sburch(at)norfolk.infi.net (stan burchett) |
| Subject: | Variprime question |
I plan to use Variprime mixed 1:1 with Converter.
I prepared my first pieces with Dupont Aluminum Prefinishing 226S,
an Alodine coating. The directions call for a 2-5 minute wash off, before
it drys.
Some pieces dryed on me and a bluish spotting won't wash.
Re-application doesn't work. I'm wondering if this will have any affect on
the Variprime?
Stan-Yorktown,VA -6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> Flat out top speed in level flight for my RV-6A at 4500 ft MSL, total
>temp 4 degrees C is 201MPH. My RPM is prop overspeed at 2640
> and MP is 32.0, full rich mixture. Fuel flow is 9.6 GPH for 21.88
miles
Hmm. It sounds like your manifold pressure gauge needs calibrating. At
4500' on a standard day the ambient pressure will be about 25.5 - I'm
pretty sure the airbox won't give a 6.5" recovery ;-)
What engine are you using? In the above scenario (25.5 & 2640) you are
running about 87% power which is about right for the altitude, but 9.6gph
seems VERY low. My 0-320 manual (160hp) shows a fuel flow of about 12gph
in this situation. Granted, this is for a carb. Does an injector really
give that much more efficiency?
>get 150 MPH and 4.0 GPH or 37.38 miles per gallon. I had one data
>point at 2200 RPM that gave me over 160 MPH which would result in
>40 miles per gallon!
Again, my chart shows that 4.0gph occurs somewhere around 30% power, or
about 48hp. I think my 6A indicates about 110-120mph at that power
setting. Have you checked your fuel flow against how much gas you put
back in at fillup?
BTW, I certainly sympathize with your "deviation" from the flight plan.
I had quite a few similar deviations, each one causing a bigger grin!
Also, I want to thank you for all the information you shared with us in
your newsletter, it helped me tremendously! Now if I can just get around
to making those fiberglass wing fairings...
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Has anyone tried one of the 3 or 4 bladed composite props? I think
sturba puts them out, but I'm not sure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
Lister
I will be buying some flight instruments while I'm in Lakeland, and I
cannot find the answer to a question I have?
If I buy non TSO instruments are they IFR legal in an experimental.
I cannot afford to install all of the IFR equipment right now, but
later on I would like to go IFR. I do not want to have to buy
certian instruments twice. There is a big price diffrence between
TSO and non TSO as we all know.
I'm not cheap, just poor and I need to save where I can.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | constant speed prop |
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
Problem: No change in prop (no rpm drop) when prop control tested during
run up.
Equipment: Hartzell Model B-2 prop governor mounted on 0-320 controlling
Hartzell constant speed prop. Removed from 1957 Mooney with the engine.
All components from the same plane. Installed in RV6A.
Symptoms: Since original installation the prop adjustment has been very
slow to respond initially. After engine oil has heated up from taxing
to run up area, the first few attempts to cycle the governor at 1700 rpm
results in nothing happening. After numerous attempts (5 to ten times) ,
which includes pulling the control full aft for as long as 15 to 30
seconds, the rpm finally will drop and thereafter the prop will respond
normally. No problems in flight, just the initial run up.
After about 50 hours, the governor developed a serious oil leak and I had
it overhauled last week by EMI in Tulsa, OK. which bench tested it for
2700 rpm before returning it. Today the gov was reinstalled. At 1700
rpm with oil temp at 110 degrees and outside air temp of 75 deg (south
Texas), absolutely no response from moving the prop control. Tried
repeatedly at 1700 rpm and 2000 rpm. Left the control full aft twice
for at least one minute. Absolutely nothing. The dip stick indicated 5
quarts of oil before starting the engine ( I normally carry 6 qts but the
oil leak and loss of oil from removing the gov had lost about a quart).
The control linkage is working smoothly with normal range of control
extension in the cockpit and full swing of the control arm on the
governor. No sign of leaking oil.
I assume either no oil is being pumped by the gov ( so no oil pressure to
the prop) or the gov is working ok but the problem is downstream at the
prop with something not allowing the oil pressure to reach the prop. I
did not pour any oil into the gov before reinstallation assuming that it
refills with oil from normal operation. Filling the gov with oil before
remounting would be very messy. It is perhaps necessary to prime the
gov with oil? Is there a technique to confirm that the gov is in fact
delivering oil pressure at the output? Any suggestions will be
appreciated.
Thanks, J. E. Rehler RV6A N517RL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
<< Now if I can just get around
to making those fiberglass wing fairings...
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96 >>
Surely you know about the fairings available from Sam James? $200 for the
pair. I wish I'd had them when I built my -4.
941-675-4493 & tell him I sent ya.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
| Subject: | RMI MicroMonitor |
Does anyone have any pictures,BMPs or cad drawings of the MicroMonitor mounted
in an RV6?
Jerry H. Prado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Sliding canopy installation |
I am halfway through the installation of the sliding canopy on my RV-6
and I would like to share some thoughts and insights.
1. I read everything I could find on the installation, Vans
instructions, Jim Cone's newsletter article (Oct. 1996 VAF, Tri-State),
Bill Benedict's comments in Vans RVator newsletter, Frank Justices
"Finish" instructions, RV-list archives, and others. I also had some
information sent to me by Randall Henderson on the list, thanks. I
learned from all these sources and recommend that all be read.
2. The steel parts do warp when welding and they can be bend to
correct. The roll over bar right foot was not level with the left. It
took two large clamps, a steel bench and a heating torch to correct with
good result. The canopy frame takes a considerable amount of tweaking
with clamps, 2 x4's and strong arming.
3. The bottom of the canopy frame front bow angled in too much causing
the track to be too far inboard on the gunwall channel for the bolts and
nuts. I put the roller assemblies into the bottom, clamped it into a
solid vice and bent it by hand just slightly. Putting the bolts as far
from the edge of the track extrusion and making sure the gunwall
channels are parrallel during fuselage construction will help this.
4. Do not bolt the side track down until canopy is in place to make
sure it is correctly placed for alignment of the canopy on the outside.
5. Cut off the latch handle tube in the canopy frame that sticks above
the middle tube. This will allow the fitting and triming of the canopy
without interference.
6. It is important that you trial fit the canopy frame to the canopy
prior to any cutting to approx. locate where they must match for the
reflex curve at the rear of the center tube.
7. Cutting the canopy with the cut off blade in an electric drill is
easy to do, just take your time. After the initial cut to remove the
edge flanges all cuts can be made on the plane by putting wood blocks
under edge to lift the canopy away from the fuselage skin.
8. The canopy will not fit perfectly to the roll over bar before the
windshield is cut away from the rear canopy section. I got the front
trimed so that the canopy was sitting on 75% of the roll bar and was
within 3/32 on the other 25%. The left front corner was pulled away
from the fuselage too much and when the rear edge was clamped to the
rear bow of the canopy frame the front cut lifted from the skin
slightly. Because of this I got it positioned as close as possible,
taped it down and cut the canopy into two parts prior to drilling any
holes into the roll bar. Once cut it fit perfectly since it could now
flex with out fighting it self. A final trim cut on the bottom edge and
clamping the windshield to the roll bar pulled the lower corner to the
rear, a small wedge must be taken out here to match rear canopy
perfectly.
9. If the canopy is solidly backed by the tube it can initially be
drilled with a standard #40 drill bit. Keep it straight and don't force
it.
So far the fear factor of working on the canopy is much exagerated. I'm
working on the installation of the canopy to the canopy frame now. I'll
add more comments as I finish up. Thanks again to all those who
contributed to my knowledge prior to my starting on the canopy.
Frank Smidler
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
I had a number of epoxy resin spots after I fiberglassed the gap seal in my 6
tip up. Micromesh took it off with no problem at all.
Rick McBride
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Breda <rv6av8r(at)ols.net> |
>I've managed to get a small amount of epoxy resin on my canopy plexi.
>Of course, I didn't notice it until it had hardened. It's kind of a thin
>smudge. Any ideas on how to remove it safely? Will Micromesh take
>something like this out?
>
>Thanks,
>Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
>ebundy(at)juno.com
>
Ed,
Micromesh should do it. I had the same problem & it worked fine; also took
out some scratches and an imperfection (sort of a "fisheye") in the
plexiglas. Good stuff.
Dana Breda
RV-6 N138DB flying since '92
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Ed,
Micromesh should do it. I had the same problem & it worked fine; also took
out some scratches and an imperfection (sort of a "fisheye") in the
plexiglas. Good stuff.
Dana Breda
RV-6 N138DB flying since '92
>>
Try something simple first. Like your finger nail, or a sharpened popsickle
stick. Sometimes that's all that's needed on the unintended bonds; i.e.
unperpared surfaces.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone tried one of the 3 or 4 bladed composite props? I think
sturba puts them out, but I'm not sure.
>>
I've been flying the Ivoprop composite prop for the last three years. And
the electric variable pitch composite prop (prototype hub) for the last 15
months.
This can be either a two or three blade prop. Although the three blade prop
is normally recommended.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Magnetic Roll Bar Brace |
I installed my compass in the panel of my RV-6A (slider) near the top of
the panel & just to the right of center. I understand that a number of
installations have successfully used this location. The problem is, the
compass cannot be properly swung . The first compass lined up OK NS but
would not come within 30 deg on the EW axis. Replaced the compass with
another (both used units) and it just points north all the time. It was
suggested to me that the brace (which is not stainless) for the
roll-bar, might be magnetized. In considering ways to demagnetize this
brace I thought of wrapping it with many turns of wire & introduced an
alternating current through the wire, thus erasing any residual
magnetism in it. Problem is, what to use as a source of AC. I thought of
using my Weller soldering gun with the wire connected instead of a
soldering tip.
Does anyone have any ideas on this. Do you think it is magnetized, & if
so is this the way to correct it. Or do I have to move my compass. Any
and all suggestions gratefully accepted
Ted French
RV-6A C-FXCS 60+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
> If I buy non TSO instruments are they IFR legal in an experimental.
> I cannot afford to install all of the IFR equipment right now, but
> later on I would like to go IFR. I do not want to have to buy
> certian instruments twice. There is a big price diffrence between
> TSO and non TSO as we all know.
This question came up about a year ago. At that time, no one could
find anyplace in the FARs that specified whether you needed TSO'd
equipment for IFR flight.
Of course, any altimeter will need to be adjustable for barametric
pressure.
To be sure of the Real Answer, I would recommend a call to the local
FSDO or perhaps someone at EAA could help.
-J
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack Gageby <aj752(at)lafn.org> |
Does anyone have recommendations on how to uniformly bevel the .032 and
.025 wing skins at where they overlap? What techniques/tools have given
good results?
Thanks....Jack, RV4, drilling the wing skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic Roll Bar Brace |
Some avionics shops have degaussing equipment which can be used on your
airframe. A friend of mine had the same problem with his sliding canopy
RV-6a and used a degausser to solve the problem. I can verify that his
compass was way offbefore degaussing, and now it's almost perfect.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
Jack Gageby wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have recommendations on how to uniformly bevel the .032 and
> .025 wing skins at where they overlap? What techniques/tools have given
> good results?
>
> Thanks....Jack, RV4, drilling the wing skins
If you are thinking (like I was) that the skins were beveled
across the entire skin, there was an article in the RVator showing that
these skins were only beveled in the forward corners. This is to keep a
uniform thickness to mate with the forward skin. This is not mandatory.
Only for cosmetic reasons. If you don't mind the overlap don't do
nothing. This was the path I chose and my wings looks very good.
You might look at the possibility of overlaping the outboard
skins over the inboard. This way it would be a lot more waterproof.
Carroll Bird RV-4 Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
RV-6 question here....
I am currently fitting parts # F-642 L&R, and F-641 to the floor ribs.
Drawing #37 shows to make 8 locations on part F-641 to accomodate
AN515-R8. Is this correct? Only 8 holes? The spacing shown seems
irregular and insufficient.
Thanks in advance.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
> Does anyone have recommendations on how to uniformly bevel the .032 and
> .025 wing skins at where they overlap? What techniques/tools have given
> good results?
Avery sells a tool. It's a hunk of 3/4" plastic about 3 or 4 inches across,
circular, that fits the hand nicely. Mounted to the face are two wheels.
The tool works in that you hold the plastic at a right angle to the skin,
with the edge of the skin between the two wheels. Apply slight bending
pressure as you draw it across the skin. You get a slight bend.
Cleaveland Tools (Boone, Iowa) also sells a tool that looks good. It's
kind of like a pliers, but with wheels instead of grips. Slight pressure
as you draw across the skins.
Most of the guys appear to be using the tool from Avery. Cleaveland just
came out with their tool last summer. It'll do a better job with curved
parts like the inside of the aileron bellcrank inspection cutout.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
You might want to consider that in IFR flight your life depends entirley on the
quality and reliability of your
instrumentation. FAA asside, I don't want to bet my life on gauges I bought primarily
because they were cheap.
The real question is how do you judge quality if you don't use the FAA's standards?
Trust the vendor?
Hmmmm...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
In a message dated 3/9/97 3:16:02 AM, you wrote:
>
>Does anyone have recommendations on how to uniformly bevel the .032 and
>.025 wing skins at where they overlap? What techniques/tools have given
>good results?
You only have to bevel the corners of the skin at the leading edge. I used
a sanding block. Slow, but worked ok.
Pat Allender
RV 4 Pat A(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Variprime question |
>
>
> I plan to use Variprime mixed 1:1 with Converter.
> I prepared my first pieces with Dupont Aluminum Prefinishing 226S,
> an Alodine coating. The directions call for a 2-5 minute wash off, before
> it drys.
> Some pieces dryed on me and a bluish spotting won't wash.
> Re-application doesn't work. I'm wondering if this will have any affect on
> the Variprime?
> Stan-Yorktown,VA -6A
>
>
>
Variprime woun't work over the Alodine. Variprime is designed to etch the
aluminum, and the Alodine has already done that. You might want to consider
some sort of epoxie primer. In any case, it's most likely overkill unless
you intend to hangar you bird near salt water.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic Roll Bar Brace |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> Do you think it is magnetized, & if
>so is this the way to correct it. Or do I have to move my compass. Any
>and all suggestions gratefully accepted
If you move the compass farther away from the bar does it get better? If
the bar IS magnetized, de-magnetizing will probably help, but even when
non-magnetized, steel can cause compass problems if in close proximity.
I think that's probably why Van's ships the stainless steel bars as
standard equipment now. (At least, my kit came with one) I have a
pedestal vertical card (wet) compass mounted on top of the glareshield
directly below the bar and it swung fine.
If you can't solve the problem, you could probably put the stainless bar
in instead. If you carefully used the old bar as a pattern for the
holes, you might be able to replace it with a minimum of bad words...
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic Roll Bar Brace |
>
>
> I installed my compass in the panel of my RV-6A (slider) near the top of
> the panel & just to the right of center. I understand that a number of
> installations have successfully used this location. The problem is, the
> compass cannot be properly swung . The first compass lined up OK NS but
> would not come within 30 deg on the EW axis. Replaced the compass with
> another (both used units) and it just points north all the time. It was
> suggested to me that the brace (which is not stainless) for the
> roll-bar, might be magnetized. In considering ways to demagnetize this
> brace I thought of wrapping it with many turns of wire & introduced an
> alternating current through the wire, thus erasing any residual
> magnetism in it. Problem is, what to use as a source of AC. I thought of
> using my Weller soldering gun with the wire connected instead of a
> soldering tip.
> Does anyone have any ideas on this. Do you think it is magnetized, & if
> so is this the way to correct it. Or do I have to move my compass. Any
> and all suggestions gratefully accepted
>
> Ted French
> RV-6A C-FXCS 60+ hours
>
Use a 'variac'. This is a variable transformer that will allow you to
reduce the current to a zero slowly as you complete the demag process.
The units can be pretty expensive, but can be had at electronics surplus
shops. Another choice might be a household light dimmer. If you go
this route, make sure you get the 'autotransformer' type. The less
expensive units reduce the voltage by 'clipping' the wave, this is
_not_ what you want. This will also be sort of expensive, but nowhere
near the cost of the variac. One other thing to note; unless you use
_lots_ of wire you will have a dead short between the connections on
the current source. On a small part like you have you may want to use
a resistor in series with the current source. An amp guage would be a
good idea as well.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
I beveled mine with a #60 grit fiber disc on a small body grinder, then
progressively took out the marks with a D.A. sander (220,400 grit)
practiced on scrap first. I beveled the top of the underlying skin and
the bottom of the overlapping skin (corners only). In the past someone
on this list suggested that you could notch the underlying skin in the
area where it is sandwitched between the top skin and spar, createing a
"butt joint" at the spar only. I think this method would look the best,
but I don't know if it would weaken the joint.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
<< Does anyone have recommendations on how to uniformly bevel the .032 and
.025 wing skins at where they overlap? >>
The bevel (as you call it) is not a scarfed joint as it appears in the
drawing. This view only applies at the very leading edge of the skins where
they butt against the 'D' section. This is to get the LE of the skin out of
the airstream. There are several ways to do this and obtain cosmetically
acceptable results.
E-mail me direct if you still are unsure.
-Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Glenn,
The top view you are looking at shows a cut-a-way section of the F-641 with
the F-6422R & L underneath. The same 4" nominal spacing is used for the F-641
as for the F-648 with screws at the intersection of those two tunnel covers at
F-605 Bulkhead and F-639 & 640 Seat Fwd pieces (view A-A'). A little more
explanation of the installation sequence for this is in the preview plans
manual.
Les Williams
Tacoma, WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Glenn & Judi
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 1997 7:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Floor
Hi,
RV-6 question here....
I am currently fitting parts # F-642 L&R, and F-641 to the floor ribs.
Drawing #37 shows to make 8 locations on part F-641 to accomodate
AN515-R8. Is this correct? Only 8 holes? The spacing shown seems
irregular and insufficient.
Thanks in advance.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Westlande(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-4/IO-360 Pict. |
In Tony Bingelis's new book on engines, an IO-360-A1B6 is pictured on page
165. Does anyone know if these are the standard intake tubes or if they
needed to be fabricated? If fabricated, who does this type of work?
TIA,
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Advice Needed - Problems With My Gas Caps |
Noticing I had blue stains trailing from my gas caps in flight, I came to
the conclusion they were to loose. So I loosened the bottom nut on the gas
cap, and tightened the circular metal piece above it, so that it made the
red/brown gasket a larger diameter. I then tightened the nut back up.
Well, this worked great and I saw no more gas stains. However, when I went
out to the airport the other day, one gas cap had blue stains on the paint
all the way around the cap. Checking the cap, the cap tab had actually
broken ( the little metal hollow tube that holds the lift tab to the gas cap
). I apparently had adusted the caps to be so tight, that the lift tab
required to much pressure to push on it, thus causing the tab hinge to
break. I have the following questions:
1.) I am having a difficult time getting the caps to fit right. If I adjust
them so that I do not have to push hard to close them, they leak, and I am
afraid that water will get in. If I adjust them tight so they don't leak
gas on a full tank, they break. Has anybody else had this problem, and how
did you get around it.
Thanks For Suggestions
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
N345RV RV6A 23 hours total time
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Advice Needed - Nippondenso Alternator Leaking Black Grease / |
Overheating ?
I purchased VANS Nippondesno Alternator kit, and having flown 23 hours with
it, black grease is coming out of the alternator bearings. The way the
grease is staining the front of the alternator, it almost looks like the
bearings are overheating (even though I have a blast tube on the
alternator). I am fairly sure that I have not overtighted the alternator
belt because I have put many on before and never had a problem. Has anybody
else noticed black grease leaking out of their alternator before ?
Also, does anybody know of a good 50 or 60 AMP alternator model that will
fit in a normal RV6A cowling without making modifications to the cowl size.
Thanks to all who respond ...
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
N345RV RV6A 23 HRS TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Performance Figures, Unusual Results ? |
I have a brand new 180HP Lycoming and a wood prop by Ed Sterba. The
tachometer is a 300 dollar digital one by JPI and I have checked it with a
digital RPM tester, so I believe these figures are accurate.
It will turn a static of 2410 RPM. However, at full power at 1000 feet, it
will not go faster than 2640 ( I do not have the wheel pants or gear leg
fairings on this RV6A yet, so additional drag is having an effect. I did try
leaning, but it only had a small effect ). It seems to me thats a very small
RPM spread. Is this normal ?
Also, at 7500 feet, it will turn 2520 firewalled. Is that to low or high on
the RPM's ? How do I interpret these results. Is it under or over pitched.
Since I do not have a manifold gauge, can I assume that firewalled at 7500
feet is about 75% ? Or can an overpitched prop make it less than 75% ?
The difference in speed between firewalled at 7500 feet and firewalled at
1000 feet is less than 10 MPH. That doesn't seem right either.
All interpretations are appreciated ...
With all that being said, I still took off after a Piper Aztec twin
yesterday, caught up to him, and went by him at about 10 MPH. As I went by
him, he called out on 122.75 and asked me what the heck I was flying ! I'm
sure he was at low cruise though.
Scott Johnson
N345RV RV6A 23 HRS TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic Roll Bar Brace |
Ted French wrote:
> In considering ways to demagnetize this
> brace I thought of wrapping it with many turns of wire & introduced an
> alternating current through the wire, thus erasing any residual
> magnetism in it.
> Ted French
> RV-6A C-FXCS 60+ hours
Ted
Check out Sacramento Sky Ranch http://www.sierra.net/skyranch/
They rent a degaussing probe for $75 a week. Also read the article they
have posted on how to demagnatize your aircraft. Very informative.
Bud Newhall
--
__|__
__|__ ____(+)____
____(+)____ ' '
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Performance Figures, Unusual Results ? |
Scott Johnson wrote:
> The difference in speed between firewalled at 7500 feet and firewalled at
> 1000 feet is less than 10 MPH. That doesn't seem right either.
>
> All interpretations are appreciated ...
I notice that many posts refer to airspeed without indicating weather
it is IAS, CAS, or TAS. No inferrence can be made concerning performance
or range if the speed used is not True Air Speed (TAS). An aircraft that
indicates (IAS) the same airspeed at 1,000' and 7,500, is actually
going about 2% per thousand feet faster at altitude. In the case of the
above RV, the same indicated is about 15 mph faster at 7,500'.
BTW, as a former Navy pilot and retired airline pilot, I always thought
that airplanes flew knots rather than miles per hour. Are RV's
different? :-)
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Performance Figures, Unusual Results ? |
>
>Scott Johnson wrote:
>
>BTW, as a former Navy pilot and retired airline pilot, I always thought
>that airplanes flew knots rather than miles per hour. Are RV's
>different? :-)
>
>Bob Moore
Bob,
Navy pilots fly nautical miles/hour. The rest of us fly statute miles/hour.
......Sorry, I couldn't resist it.
Actually, the move to MPH is the result of marketing ploys to make certain
aircraft (Mooney, for example) cross the magic number of "200". Hey, it
could be worse. We could climb at 548 meters/min.
Lou Willig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Performance Figures, Unusual Results ? |
>It will turn a static of 2410 RPM. However, at full power at 1000 feet, it
>will not go faster than 2640 ( I do not have the wheel pants or gear leg
>fairings on this RV6A yet, so additional drag is having an effect. I did try
>leaning, but it only had a small effect ). It seems to me thats a very small
>RPM spread. Is this normal ?
>Scott Johnson
>N345RV RV6A 23 HRS TT
Scott,
I don't know if anything can be considered "normal" with "custom made"
wood props. Generally, I think 2350 static is considered ideal. Hopefully,
with 2410 rpms, you have a very good climb out. The 2640 at full throttle
seems to be in the ball park, as well. You may pick up some rpms when you
cut the drag.
I now have a Sensenich FP metal and my static is 2080-2100. With my old
wood prop it was 2230. The Sensenich seems to have more thrust and, I
believe, a little more take off performance than my wood prop.
If you can use it, I have a some test data at various altitudes and power
settings as I was testing a modifying my wood prop. You may be able to get
an idea of various relationships from the data that you can apply to your
situation. The data is in a Quatro spreadsheet. I think this can be changed
to text so you won't need Quatro but this operation is getting close to the
fringe of my computer expertise. You can E-mail me off list if you want me
to send this data to you.
BTW, I have a 150 hp RV-6.
Bob Skinner BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Performance Figures, Unusual Results ? |
>I notice that many posts refer to airspeed without indicating weather
>it is IAS, CAS, or TAS. No inferrence can be made concerning performance
>or range if the speed used is not True Air Speed (TAS). An aircraft that
>indicates (IAS) the same airspeed at 1,000' and 7,500, is actually
>going about 2% per thousand feet faster at altitude. In the case of the
>above RV, the same indicated is about 15 mph faster at 7,500'.
>Bob Moore
Bob,
I think it would be great if everyone would talk in the same terms. Some
of the performance figures I've seen seem quite optimistic. Sometimes, I
feel like I have the slowest RV-6 made. It cruises at 180 mph, TCAS at full
throttle at 7,500 feet. This is on 150 hp. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied
but wish I had a little better climb for high density altitude operations.
That's the price you pay when you have a heavy airplane (1088 lbs.)
To compute my performance figures, I used a formula that I got from
Kitplanes that factors the wind at altitude out. You just fly three
different headings, 90 degrees apart and write down your GPS (or Loran)
groundspeed after it has stabilized. Then, I go home and punch the numbers
into the computer. I think this an accurate method and the results seem to
be consistent.
I have this spreadsheet in Quatro Pro. If any lister would like a copy,
contact me off-list and I'll send the file as an attachment.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Problems With My Gas Caps |
>
>Noticing I had blue stains trailing from my gas caps in flight, I came to
>the conclusion they were to loose. So I loosened the bottom nut on the gas
>cap, and tightened the circular metal piece above it, so that it made the
>red/brown gasket a larger diameter. I then tightened the nut back up.
>Well, this worked great and I saw no more gas stains. However, when I went
>out to the airport the other day, one gas cap had blue stains on the paint
>all the way around the cap. Checking the cap, the cap tab had actually
>broken ( the little metal hollow tube that holds the lift tab to the gas cap
>). I apparently had adusted the caps to be so tight, that the lift tab
>required to much pressure to push on it, thus causing the tab hinge to
>break. I have the following questions:
>
>1.) I am having a difficult time getting the caps to fit right. If I adjust
>them so that I do not have to push hard to close them, they leak, and I am
>afraid that water will get in. If I adjust them tight so they don't leak
>gas on a full tank, they break. Has anybody else had this problem, and how
>did you get around it.
>
>
>Thanks For Suggestions
>
>
>Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
>N345RV RV6A 23 hours total time
>
>
>
>
As they say, been there, done that. I had exactly the same problem with one
of the caps on my RV. I'm including an article that I wrote to describe how
I 'fixed' the problem.
GAS CAP COMES APART
by John Ammeter
Puget Sound RVators
Recently, Jim Morgan, fellow builder and helper in the construction of my
RV-6, was doing a preflight of N16JA. When he popped the cam lock lever on
the right gas cap the cam came off in his hands. Luckily, the lower portion
of the cap assembly did not fall into the tank. Investigation showed that
the hinge pin had sheared apart. This hinge pin is a roll pin about 1/16"
or a #52 bit (0.0635") in diameter.
When I checked the left gas cap I found its hinge pin was also bent and
about to break. The 1/16" roll pin does not seem strong enough to withstand
the force which can easily be applied when closing the cap; granted, some
people have said I tend to be a little heavy handed when tightening nuts,
etc. It is possible the rubber "O"-ring may have become larger and tighter
due to use of auto gas. I had noticed that occasionally I had to loosen the
adjustment nut because the cap was too hard to close. I've been using 80/87
almost exclusively for the last 10-15 hours and the "O"-ring seems to have
shrunk back to normal size now.
With both gas caps breaking their hinge pins, I needed to make some kind of
repair that would be permanent. Careful measurement of the edge margins
seemed to indicate that it would be possible to drill out the hole to the
size of a #43 drill bit (0.0890") or about 3/32" and use a Stainless Steel
pin from the aluminum hinge Van supplies in the RV kit. The pin is held in
place by the design of the cap and cannot fall out in normal use.
I recommend that all RV flyers disassemble their gas caps and check the roll
pin for wear. If the roll pin breaks, the aluminum pin/bolt can easily fall
into the tank along with the "O"-ring and lower plate. The roll pin is all
that holds the gas cap together.
----------------------
I have since found that letting a little gas flow over the cap (from the
fuel drain) will lubricate the rubber O-ring enough to let it close without
too much force.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Performance Figures, Unusual Results ? |
Bob Skinner wrote:
> >I wrote:
> >I notice that many posts refer to airspeed without indicating weather
> >it is IAS, CAS, or TAS. No inferrence can be made concerning performance
> >or range if the speed used is not True Air Speed (TAS). An aircraft that
> >indicates (IAS) the same airspeed at 1,000' and 7,500, is actually
> >going about 2% per thousand feet faster at altitude. In the case of the
> >above RV, the same indicated is about 15 mph faster at 7,500'.
> >Bob Moore
>
> Bob,
> I think it would be great if everyone would talk in the same terms. Some
> of the performance figures I've seen seem quite optimistic. Sometimes, I
> feel like I have the slowest RV-6 made. It cruises at 180 mph, TCAS at full
> throttle at 7,500 feet. This is on 150 hp.
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
Bob,
Certainly no flames intended, but was this intended as a test?
Just what is TCAS? None of my several aerodynamics books have
any reference to any speeds other than IAS, CAS, EAS, and TAS.
IAS corrected for installation error is CAS, corrected for
compressability is EAS, corrected for temperture and pressure
is TAS, corrected for wind is GS. It is true that on a standard
day at sea level, CAS and TAS should be the same if the effects
of compressability are ignored.
By using the three leg GPS system, you have eliminated wind as a
factor and have arrived at TAS. To find CAS, one must then take
TAS and factor in Temp/PA. One may then subtract CAS and what you
read on the airspeed indicator (IAS) to find the aircraft's
installation error.
BTW, TCAS is the acronym for a Transponder based Collision
Avoidance System.
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | seat belt installation |
Hi,
RE: Seatbelt installation.
Before I pop rivet the floor skins in place, I wanted to be sure how the
seatbelt are meant to attach to the F634 seatbelt brackets.
Is the seatbelt meant to attach to the side of the bracket pair, or
should it fit between the bracket pair?
Is there a "stadard" width for the seatbelt hardware that I should leave
clearance for?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Seat belt installation |
Hi,
RE: Seatbelt installation. RV-6
Before I pop rivet the floor skins in place, I wanted to
be sure how the
seatbelt are meant to attach to the F634 seatbelt
brackets.
Is the seatbelt meant to attach to the side of the bracket
pair, or
should it fit between the bracket pair? =20
Is there a "stadard" width for the seatbelt hardware that
I should leave
clearance for?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
--=20
MZ=90
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Problems With My Gas Caps |
<< Has anybody else had this problem, and how
did you get around it. >>
Scott-
Try calling Usher at 503-647-0015. They make these for Van's. Please let
the list know what you find out.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Nippondenso Alternator Leaking Black Grease |
/ Ov...
<< Also, does anybody know of a good 50 or 60 AMP alternator model that will
fit in a normal RV6A cowling without making modifications to the cowl size.
>>
The B&C L60 is your choice but the cost is commensurate with the quality.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4/IO-360 Pict. |
<< In Tony Bingelis's new book on engines, an IO-360-A1B6 is pictured on page
165. Does anyone know if these are the standard intake tubes or if they
needed to be fabricated? If fabricated, who does this type of work? >>
I believe this plane belongs to Dave Anders N230A also pictured on Page 90 of
the same publication. He supposedly has the fastest RV-4 in the world.
Maybe you could search the N number listings and get an address and/or phone
number for him or maybe the other performance guys on the RV-List know his
number.
-Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | morristec(at)ICDC.COM |
| Subject: | T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
RV>I will be buying some flight instruments while I'm in Lakeland, and I
RV>cannot find the answer to a question I have?
RV>If I buy non TSO instruments are they IFR legal in an experimental.
RV>I cannot afford to install all of the IFR equipment right now, but
RV>later on I would like to go IFR. I do not want to have to buy
RV>certian instruments twice. There is a big price diffrence between
RV>TSO and non TSO as we all know.
RV>I'm not cheap, just poor and I need to save where I can.
RV>Craig Hiers
RV>RV-4 N143CH
RV>Tallahassee,FL
Craig,
TSO is not required by regulation, but..I would prefer good quality TSO
instruments if I was going to have my fanny depend on them.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
I'm new to this. I'm starting a RV-6A. Have no questions
as of yet. Would someone contact me to confirm that
I'm reaching this system. I am really looking forward to
this project.
Respectfully,
Mike Comeaux
(Sunriver Oregon)
Email mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Variprime question |
>> I plan to use Variprime mixed 1:1 with Converter.
>> I prepared my first pieces with Dupont Aluminum Prefinishing 226S,
>> an Alodine coating. The directions call for a 2-5 minute wash off, before
>> it drys.
>> Some pieces dryed on me and a bluish spotting won't wash.
>> Re-application doesn't work. I'm wondering if this will have any affect on
>> the Variprime?
>> Stan-Yorktown,VA -6A
>>
>
>Variprime woun't work over the Alodine. Variprime is designed to etch the
>aluminum, and the Alodine has already done that. You might want to consider
>some sort of epoxie primer. In any case, it's most likely overkill unless
>you intend to hangar you bird near salt water.
>
> Chris
> cruble(at)cisco.com
>
>
Chris, you're completely 180 degrees off course on this one!
If you check the DuPont Aircraft Refinishing manual (if in doubt,
RTF...:^) you will find that DuPont considers acid etch, alodine, VariPrime
and Imron, applied in that order, to be a 'correct' aircraft finish. They
_specifically_ say that the self-etching properties of VariPrime are NOT
considered aircraft quality for a finish paint job.
This applies to external, finish painting, but it does give the
manufacturer's opinion (as "Tim the Tool Man" says, instructions are only
the manufacture's opinion) on the compatibility of alodine and VariPrime.
... Gil (I'm using an epoxy p%^&$#) Alexander
RV6A, #20701 ... working on glassing tail tips and canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Advice Needed - Right Brake Is Locking |
For some reason, my right brake drags excessively at times, heats up, and
then locks tight. I have examined the pedals and cylinders and they seem to
be OK. I have looked at the brake and can see nothing externally that would
cause it to drag. Today it almost locked after landing, and I could barely
get back to the hangar. Unfortunately, it had gotten so hot the right disk
was glowing red. After it cooled off, it was unlocked. The plane has
already done at least 40 take offs and landings. I used VANS aluminum tubing
for the brake lines and they are not kinked anywhere. I also have the
optional co-pilot brake setup.
I am at a loss what to do since this was my first brake installation. I
currently have 24 hours on the RV6A. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
as I don't want to end locked up on the runway or taxiway.
Scott Johnson
rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Anybody have An Excel Worksheet For Calc. Speed From 3 GPS |
Direction Readings
If you have an Excel Worksheet that calculates speed from 3 GPS direction
readings, I would like to get a copy. Alternatively, if anybody has the
formula handy, I would be glad to make the spreadsheet in Excel.
Thanks
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Performance Figures, Unusual Results ? |
>Bob,
>
>Certainly no flames intended, but was this intended as a test?
>Just what is TCAS? None of my several aerodynamics books have
>any reference to any speeds other than IAS, CAS, EAS, and TAS.
>IAS corrected for installation error is CAS, corrected for
>compressability is EAS, corrected for temperture and pressure
>is TAS, corrected for wind is GS. It is true that on a standard
>day at sea level, CAS and TAS should be the same if the effects
>of compressability are ignored.
>
>By using the three leg GPS system, you have eliminated wind as a
>factor and have arrived at TAS. To find CAS, one must then take
>TAS and factor in Temp/PA. One may then subtract CAS and what you
>read on the airspeed indicator (IAS) to find the aircraft's
>installation error.
>Bob Moore
Gosh, Bob, You're one up on me. I don't have any books on aerodynamics:)
Hey, I'm just a reformed rancher.
I guess what I was trying to convey was: IAS or indicated airspeed equals
an approxamate estimate of airspeed. My plane may stall at an indicated 80
and yours may stall at an indicated 50 and these may be the same true
airspeed.; CAS is the airspeed system corrected for instrument error and
installation error of the pitot and static sources.; TAS is what we solve
for with the wiz wheel or airspeed indicator (equiped with the TAS window)
and this uses indicated airspeed, temp and pressure altitude. If computing
TAS is done without using calibrated airspeed then isn't there a chance for
error?
So, isn't true, calibrated airspeed what we're after? (Or, calibrated,
true airspeed.)
Anyway, the way I look at it, when you fly the three legs, note the GPS
readout and input these figures into the formula, you've taken into account:
altitude, temperature, wind direction and speed. You never have to look at
your indicated airspeed. I did log my indicated airspeed and then
subtracted this from the computed airspeed to arrive at the indicated
airspeed error which changed with density altitude.
I didn't calibrate my airspeed and maybe I should have. I guess I'm
mainly interested in indicated stall speed and otherwise, speed across the
ground is what counts. I guess I like the three leg, formula method of
airspeed computation because it's easy for everyone to do, it eliminates
several chances for errors and arrives at the most accurate conclusion with
the least amount of work.
Regards, Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
<< But do you like it? What sort of performance does it give? Do you think
it to
be a viable alternative to the the conventional, constant pitch setups? How
does
it compare cost-wise? Would you recommend this setup to your best friend?
Is it
noisy? How's the maintenence?
Speak up, dammit!!!!
Thanks,
Bob Fritz >>
Picky, picky, picky
Hi all,
I am flying the prototype electric variable pitch prop from Ivoprop. What I
have is one of a kind, in that it is not as good as the production props now
being delivered. I have been helping Ivo (without pay) find the solutions to
the problems that occur with a new product.
The last time I said anything about the prop, I received a few flames. I
didn't take them personal, but there are 700 plus people on the list that I
didn't feel needed to be sobjected to the exchange. I am personnally very
interested in learning as much as I can about this unique product.
So, please send the flames direct to LesDrag(at)aol.com, and I'll sort the wheat
from the chaff. I don't see that there will be any problem with sharing the
wheat with the rv-list.
I have flown about nine different combinations of Magnum blades on the
electric hub. I have even flown a set of previously damaged blades (I DO NOT
RECOMMEND THIS), and found no additional damage to the blades during two 1/2
hour flights.
The LOM engine on my RV-3 is rated at full power at 2700 RPM and 35 " of
manifold pressure. Yes, it is supercharged. Because of this, the LOM
provides a worse impulse load to the prop blade than the Lyc. O-320 engine.
The LOM engine was one of the last three engines where Ivo could test his
prop blades.
I had run five difference wood props on the Lyc. engine I had on my RV-3
before I changed engines. The Warnke prop performed better that the others.
I have a Warnke 68x68 wood prop that I use as a reference prop for
performance comparisons. It turns 2180 for take-off and climb. Initially,
it ran 2650 RPM at 7,500 Density altitude at full throttle w/o supercharger.
(The data does get messy in a hurry with and without the supercharger, which
has a cockpit operated clutch.)
The initial aircraft configuration before I started to clean up the engine
installation provided performance at 7,500' density altitude of 180 mph tias
w/o supercharger (115 hp at sea level), and 196 mph tias with supercharger
(140 hp at sea level).
The 1996 flight testing had the Warnke prop at 7,500' density altitude
pulling my RV-3 with the engine at 2770 RPM and 196 mph tias without the
supercharger. I pulled the power with the supercharger engaged when the RPM
was going to go past 2850 RPM.
I am currently running the two blade configuration on the LOM engine. The
Ivoprop blades I am using now started out at 76" diameter. This was
obviously too much prop for my 243 cu. in. engine. I couldn't get full RPM
for take-off and climb. And the top speed suffered.
I had the blades cut and balanced at 72" dia. I could get full RPM for
take-off and climb. The top speed still suffered, and I wasn't able to use
all of the pitch travel.
I had the props cut and balanced at 68" dia. I had too reduce the full low
pitch travel so I didn't overspeed the engine on take-off and climb. At
9,500' with full throttle w/o supercharger, full prop pitch gives me 2400
RPM. I was getting 175 mph tias at full gross weight, and 180 mph tias 2
hours later. I averaged 6.2 gallons per hour on this 2 1/3 hour flight.
I should have better fuel flow data after I get Matt Dralle's FuelScan
installed.
BTW, the Warnke wood prop installation and the Ivoprop two blade installation
are the same: i.e. No C.G. change.
The Ivoprop 68" dia. provided 191 mph tias at 7,500' density altitude w/o the
supercharger, so I am still down a little in performance from the Warnke
prop.
This was run at 2770 RPM and full throttle, just like the Warnke prop.
Variable pitch is really nice. Just set it where you want it.
I really prefer the variable pitch prop over the fixed pitch wood prop. But
it's not just the take-off and climb, and being able to set an RPM for
cruise. What's really nice is putting it in low pitch for landing (like
going into low gear on a hill in a car).
I haven't finished the (December) 12 month recurring inspection yet. I'll
need to put the Warnke prop back on to determine my performance reference.
On the Ivoprop, I have removed the stainless steel leading edge tape from the
blades. They have been custom painted (Maroon front/Black back) and clear
coated, balanced and reinstalled.
I reduced the empty weight of the RV-3 by eight pounds by using Lamb tires.
I guess it would be asking for too much to get 200 mph tias with the Ivoprop
w/o the supercharger at 7,500' density altitude, or would it?
The three blade variable pitch prop is $1960. It has a reputation of being
quieter and smoother running that the wood or metal prop. The three blade
variable pitch prop (at 25 pounds) weighs about a pound less than the fixed
pitch Sensenich metal prop. I have recommended it to my closest flying
friend. It is a very simple design and the manufacturer has an excellent
reputation for customer satisfaction. Are there other prop manufacturers
that offer a 30 day money back guarentee?
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
Is anyone out there building or flying an RV with fuel injection on it?
I want to put fuel injection on my RV and am in need of advice.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon >>
Hi Glenn,
I've got fuel injection on my RV-3, but it probably doesn't count. I have a
LOM engine that comes with a 5-6 psi fuel injection system.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A fuel injected & supercharged, Ivoprop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Adminstrator" <POSTMASTER(at)wrmsseat.nwest.attws.com> |
TIME: 22:23
SUBJECT: Mail failure
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
User mail failed mailing to mailbag (file contention):
WESTERN/PORTLAND2/JCONLEY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: aol.com!LesDrag [SMTP:rv-list(at)matronics.com]
To: rv-list [SMTP:rv-list(at)matronics.com]
Date: 1997-03-10 00:17
Subject: Re: RV-List: props
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
<< But do you like it? What sort of performance does it give? Do you think
it to
be a viable alternative to the the conventional, constant pitch setups? How
does
it compare cost-wise? Would you recommend this setup to your best friend?
Is it
noisy? How's the maintenence?
Speak up, dammit!!!!
Thanks,
Bob Fritz >>
Picky, picky, picky
Hi all,
I am flying the prototype electric variable pitch prop from Ivoprop. What I
have is one of a kind, in that it is not as good as the production props now
being delivered. I have been helping Ivo (without pay) find the solutions to
the problems that occur with a new product.
The last time I said anything about the prop, I received a few flames. I
didn't take them personal, but there are 700 plus people on the list that I
didn't feel needed to be sobjected to the exchange. I am personnally very
interested in learning as much as I can about this unique product.
So, please send the flames direct to LesDrag(at)aol.com, and I'll sort the wheat
from the chaff. I don't see that there will be any problem with sharing the
wheat with the rv-list.
I have flown about nine different combinations of Magnum blades on the
electric hub. I have even flown a set of previously damaged blades (I DO NOT
RECOMMEND THIS), and found no additional damage to the blades during two 1/2
hour flights.
The LOM engine on my RV-3 is rated at full power at 2700 RPM and 35 " of
manifold pressure. Yes, it is supercharged. Because of this, the LOM
provides a worse impulse load to the prop blade than the Lyc. O-320 engine.
The LOM engine was one of the last three engines where Ivo could test his
prop blades.
I had run five difference wood props on the Lyc. engine I had on my RV-3
before I changed engines. The Warnke prop performed better that the others.
I have a Warnke 68x68 wood prop that I use as a reference prop for
performance comparisons. It turns 2180 for take-off and climb. Initially,
it ran 2650 RPM at 7,500 Density altitude at full throttle w/o supercharger.
(The data does get messy in a hurry with and without the supercharger, which
has a cockpit operated clutch.)
The initial aircraft configuration before I started to clean up the engine
installation provided performance at 7,500' density altitude of 180 mph tias
w/o supercharger (115 hp at sea level), and 196 mph tias with supercharger
(140 hp at sea level).
The 1996 flight testing had the Warnke prop at 7,500' density altitude
pulling my RV-3 with the engine at 2770 RPM and 196 mph tias without the
supercharger. I pulled the power with the supercharger engaged when the RPM
was going to go past 2850 RPM.
I am currently running the two blade configuration on the LOM engine. The
Ivoprop blades I am using now started out at 76" diameter. This was
obviously too much prop for my 243 cu. in. engine. I couldn't get full RPM
for take-off and climb. And the top speed suffered.
I had the blades cut and balanced at 72" dia. I could get full RPM for
take-off and climb. The top speed still suffered, and I wasn't able to use
all of the pitch travel.
I had the props cut and balanced at 68" dia. I had too reduce the full low
pitch travel so I didn't overspeed the engine on take-off and climb. At
9,500' with full throttle w/o supercharger, full prop pitch gives me 2400
RPM. I was getting 175 mph tias at full gross weight, and 180 mph tias 2
hours later. I averaged 6.2 gallons per hour on this 2 1/3 hour flight.
I should have better fuel flow data after I get Matt Dralle's FuelScan
installed.
BTW, the Warnke wood prop installation and the Ivoprop two blade installation
are the same: i.e. No C.G. change.
The Ivoprop 68" dia. provided 191 mph tias at 7,500' density altitude w/o the
supercharger, so I am still down a little in performance from the Warnke
prop.
This was run at 2770 RPM and full throttle, just like the Warnke prop.
Variable pitch is really nice. Just set it where you want it.
I really prefer the variable pitch prop over the fixed pitch wood prop. But
it's not just the take-off and climb, and being able to set an RPM for
cruise. What's really nice is putting it in low pitch for landing (like
going into low gear on a hill in a car).
I haven't finished the (December) 12 month recurring inspection yet. I'll
need to put the Warnke prop back on to determine my performance reference.
On the Ivoprop, I have removed the stainless steel leading edge tape from the
blades. They have been custom painted (Maroon front/Black back) and clear
coated, balanced and reinstalled.
I reduced the empty weight of the RV-3 by eight pounds by using Lamb tires.
I guess it would be asking for too much to get 200 mph tias with the Ivoprop
w/o the supercharger at 7,500' density altitude, or would it?
The three blade variable pitch prop is $1960. It has a reputation of being
quieter and smoother running that the wood or metal prop. The three blade
variable pitch prop (at 25 pounds) weighs about a pound less than the fixed
pitch Sensenich metal prop. I have recommended it to my closest flying
friend. It is a very simple design and the manufacturer has an excellent
reputation for customer satisfaction. Are there other prop manufacturers
that offer a 30 day money back guarentee?
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | torsional G-loads (chatter) |
My project is receiving more ground testing than I originally intended.
After returning from Christmas vacation I discovered I was testing my
interior primer. My shop add-on roof was leaking in the high winds and
raining where the emp. fairing wasn't. Those drain holes work but the
fiberglass dust kind of makes sludge. Today we mounted the engine to the
firewall. I had first attached the mount to the engine and then four of us
carried it out of the basement to the one car garage(I mean hanger(-: ). It
popped right on and with an auto jack and shop stool holding it up I started
inserting the nose gear leg. The jack was maxed out so I lifted the engine
while my neighbor nervously tried to jiggle the leg in place. I thought at
the time it seemed awfully heavy. When he got it in place and I stepped
back to admire I noticed one of the temp. wing spar legs was off the ground.
The horiz. stab. was resting on my "paint booth" and holding half the plane
off the ground!(duh, when you jack up the nose the tail drops) Someone last
week asked what the torsional G-load was for an RV. Apparently it is more
than half the weight of half the engine plus fuselage. I measured and
nothing has changed. Fortunately there was two layers of bubble wrap under
the skin and nothing even got scratched. I would have preferred however
not to have conducted this worthless testing. Actually it takes but 20lbs
of pressure down on the tail to raise the nose gear. That advice not to
invite friends out for the maiden flight makes even more sense now.
Kevin, ready for major dust now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Adminstrator" <POSTMASTER(at)wrmsseat.nwest.attws.com> |
TIME: 22:23
SUBJECT: Mail failure
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
User mail failed mailing to mailbag (file does not exist):
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: aol.com!LesDrag [SMTP:rv-list(at)matronics.com]
To: rv-list [SMTP:rv-list(at)matronics.com]
Date: 1997-03-10 00:17
Subject: Re: RV-List: props
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
<< But do you like it? What sort of performance does it give? Do you think
it to
be a viable alternative to the the conventional, constant pitch setups? How
does
it compare cost-wise? Would you recommend this setup to your best friend?
Is it
noisy? How's the maintenence?
Speak up, dammit!!!!
Thanks,
Bob Fritz >>
Picky, picky, picky
Hi all,
I am flying the prototype electric variable pitch prop from Ivoprop. What I
have is one of a kind, in that it is not as good as the production props now
being delivered. I have been helping Ivo (without pay) find the solutions to
the problems that occur with a new product.
The last time I said anything about the prop, I received a few flames. I
didn't take them personal, but there are 700 plus people on the list that I
didn't feel needed to be sobjected to the exchange. I am personnally very
interested in learning as much as I can about this unique product.
So, please send the flames direct to LesDrag(at)aol.com, and I'll sort the wheat
from the chaff. I don't see that there will be any problem with sharing the
wheat with the rv-list.
I have flown about nine different combinations of Magnum blades on the
electric hub. I have even flown a set of previously damaged blades (I DO NOT
RECOMMEND THIS), and found no additional damage to the blades during two 1/2
hour flights.
The LOM engine on my RV-3 is rated at full power at 2700 RPM and 35 " of
manifold pressure. Yes, it is supercharged. Because of this, the LOM
provides a worse impulse load to the prop blade than the Lyc. O-320 engine.
The LOM engine was one of the last three engines where Ivo could test his
prop blades.
I had run five difference wood props on the Lyc. engine I had on my RV-3
before I changed engines. The Warnke prop performed better that the others.
I have a Warnke 68x68 wood prop that I use as a reference prop for
performance comparisons. It turns 2180 for take-off and climb. Initially,
it ran 2650 RPM at 7,500 Density altitude at full throttle w/o supercharger.
(The data does get messy in a hurry with and without the supercharger, which
has a cockpit operated clutch.)
The initial aircraft configuration before I started to clean up the engine
installation provided performance at 7,500' density altitude of 180 mph tias
w/o supercharger (115 hp at sea level), and 196 mph tias with supercharger
(140 hp at sea level).
The 1996 flight testing had the Warnke prop at 7,500' density altitude
pulling my RV-3 with the engine at 2770 RPM and 196 mph tias without the
supercharger. I pulled the power with the supercharger engaged when the RPM
was going to go past 2850 RPM.
I am currently running the two blade configuration on the LOM engine. The
Ivoprop blades I am using now started out at 76" diameter. This was
obviously too much prop for my 243 cu. in. engine. I couldn't get full RPM
for take-off and climb. And the top speed suffered.
I had the blades cut and balanced at 72" dia. I could get full RPM for
take-off and climb. The top speed still suffered, and I wasn't able to use
all of the pitch travel.
I had the props cut and balanced at 68" dia. I had too reduce the full low
pitch travel so I didn't overspeed the engine on take-off and climb. At
9,500' with full throttle w/o supercharger, full prop pitch gives me 2400
RPM. I was getting 175 mph tias at full gross weight, and 180 mph tias 2
hours later. I averaged 6.2 gallons per hour on this 2 1/3 hour flight.
I should have better fuel flow data after I get Matt Dralle's FuelScan
installed.
BTW, the Warnke wood prop installation and the Ivoprop two blade installation
are the same: i.e. No C.G. change.
The Ivoprop 68" dia. provided 191 mph tias at 7,500' density altitude w/o the
supercharger, so I am still down a little in performance from the Warnke
prop.
This was run at 2770 RPM and full throttle, just like the Warnke prop.
Variable pitch is really nice. Just set it where you want it.
I really prefer the variable pitch prop over the fixed pitch wood prop. But
it's not just the take-off and climb, and being able to set an RPM for
cruise. What's really nice is putting it in low pitch for landing (like
going into low gear on a hill in a car).
I haven't finished the (December) 12 month recurring inspection yet. I'll
need to put the Warnke prop back on to determine my performance reference.
On the Ivoprop, I have removed the stainless steel leading edge tape from the
blades. They have been custom painted (Maroon front/Black back) and clear
coated, balanced and reinstalled.
I reduced the empty weight of the RV-3 by eight pounds by using Lamb tires.
I guess it would be asking for too much to get 200 mph tias with the Ivoprop
w/o the supercharger at 7,500' density altitude, or would it?
The three blade variable pitch prop is $1960. It has a reputation of being
quieter and smoother running that the wood or metal prop. The three blade
variable pitch prop (at 25 pounds) weighs about a pound less than the fixed
pitch Sensenich metal prop. I have recommended it to my closest flying
friend. It is a very simple design and the manufacturer has an excellent
reputation for customer satisfaction. Are there other prop manufacturers
that offer a 30 day money back guarentee?
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>I'm new to this. I'm starting a RV-6A. Have no questions
>as of yet. Would someone contact me to confirm that
>I'm reaching this system. I am really looking forward to
>this project.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Mike Comeaux
> (Sunriver Oregon)
> Email mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
Mike, You have arrived. Welcome to the family. You should get two
replies, since I am returning this to the RV-List and will respond
directly. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt installation |
>
>Hi,
>
>RE: Seatbelt installation.
>
>Before I pop rivet the floor skins in place, I wanted to be sure how the
>seatbelt are meant to attach to the F634 seatbelt brackets.
>
>Is the seatbelt meant to attach to the side of the bracket pair, or
>should it fit between the bracket pair?
>
>Is there a "stadard" width for the seatbelt hardware that I should leave
>clearance for?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
Glenn, Since no one has replied yet, the belt hardware goes between the
F-634 brackets. The part is about 0.100 to 0.125" thick. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Right Brake Is Locking |
>
>For some reason, my right brake drags excessively at times, heats up, and
>then locks tight. I have examined the pedals and cylinders and they seem to
>be OK. I have looked at the brake and can see nothing externally that would
>cause it to drag. Today it almost locked after landing, and I could barely
>get back to the hangar. Unfortunately, it had gotten so hot the right disk
>was glowing red. After it cooled off, it was unlocked. The plane has
>already done at least 40 take offs and landings. I used VANS aluminum tubing
>for the brake lines and they are not kinked anywhere. I also have the
>optional co-pilot brake setup.
>
>I am at a loss what to do since this was my first brake installation. I
>currently have 24 hours on the RV6A. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
>as I don't want to end locked up on the runway or taxiway.
>
>Scott Johnson
>rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Scott, This is not a good situation. The brake system in the RV's is very
sensitive. With very little (in fact, sometimes it is inperceptable (is
that a word?)) motion of the master cylnder, the brakes can be applied.
There is a test you can perform. Have someone push you on the ramp (push
with one manpower on the wing walk area, as close to the fuse as you can
get so the force causes the RV to travel in a straight line) with you
sitting in the cockpit. Press on the left and then the right rudder pedal
without using brakes and see if the plane veers to the left and/or right.
You should track a straight line. Chances are, you are inadvertently
pressing on the brake. With the RV-4 system (Ken Scott experienced this
same problem in his -6), if the pedals are not relieved in the correct
places, when you press on the right rudder pedal, the left brake is
applied as the left pedal swings out and vice versa. Check each pedal as it
swings out to verify that rudder bar is not pressing on the bottom of
F-6117A or the master cylinder is not contacting F-6117A on the side of the
cylinder.
The master cylinders are so effective, that with almost no perceptable
motion of the rod going into the master cylinder, brakes can be applied.
Let us (the list) know what you find out. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bshaw5(at)juno.com (William H Shaw) |
Mike, you're coming through loud and clear!! Congratulations on your
choice of aircraft designs! Good Luck!
Bill Shaw
RV6 tail kit with no space to build.:>(
writes:
>
>I'm new to this. I'm starting a RV-6A. Have no questions
>as of yet. Would someone contact me to confirm that
>I'm reaching this system. I am really looking forward to
>this project.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Mike Comeaux
> (Sunriver Oregon)
> Email mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Pedestal Vertical Card Compass |
Ed,
Tell us about the pedestal vertical card compass (wet). I am
familiar with the Precision and the Hamilton, but I don't think they are
wet. What is the brand name, source and cost? Are you pleased with it?
Thank you,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q
rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Right Brake Is Locking |
>
>For some reason, my right brake drags excessively at times, heats up, and
It could be that there when you apply rudder the brakes come on without
touching the brake pedal. Get down and check the swing of your rudder pedal
to make sure this doesn't happen. If it is the case you will have to take it
apart and "relief" the metal on the assembley so that the pedal can swing
free without applying brake.
Tom Martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Problems With My Gas Caps |
> all the way around the cap. Checking the cap, the cap tab had actually
> broken ( the little metal hollow tube that holds the lift tab to the gas cap
> ). I apparently had adusted the caps to be so tight, that the lift tab
> required to much pressure to push on it, thus causing the tab hinge to
> break. I have the following questions:
Scott,
Mine broke too while I was adjusting the tank cap during leak test.
>From the archives I borrowed the suggestion to use a section of a
small drill bit to replace the broken piece. That seemed to do the
trick (but I'm not flying yet, so no operational experience).
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)srv1.ic.net> |
William H Shaw wrote:
> RV6 tail kit with no space to build.:>(
Sorry, Bill, that won't wash with me. :) Clean out your living room
and get to it!
PatK - RV-6A - Pausing to build a model sailplane for Spring...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belt installation |
>
>Is the seatbelt meant to attach to the side of the bracket
>pair, or
>should it fit between the bracket pair?
The seat belt attaches between the bracket pair. This puts the bolt in pure
shear
>
>Is there a "stadard" width for the seatbelt hardware that
>I should leave
>clearance for?
Leave about 1/8". The brackets can bend slightly in or out once the actual
seat belt fitting is installed.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele (N506RV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)srv1.ic.net> |
mcomeaux wrote:
>
> I'm new to this. I'm starting a RV-6A. Have no questions
> as of yet. Would someone contact me to confirm that
> I'm reaching this system. I am really looking forward to
> this project.
You've arrived. Welcome! And be sure to check out
http://www.matronics.com and it's links to all the other RV related web
sites.
PatK - RV-6A - http://ic.net/~patk/rv6a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Nippondenso Alternator Leaking |
Black Grease / Ov...
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers:
has anybody got the tel # of email address for B&C. I lost my
alternator last weekend. It was a Bosh 55 Amp originally from Vans (he
doesn't carry it anymore....)
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
><< Also, does anybody know of a good 50 or 60 AMP alternator model that
will
> fit in a normal RV6A cowling without making modifications to the cowl
size.
>>>
>
>The B&C L60 is your choice but the cost is commensurate with the
>quality.
>
>-GV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | IFR certification |
Does anyone know an avionics shop in the southwest that is friendly to
experimental AC? I now have the instrumentation necessary to certify
my RV-4 for IFR flight and would like to find an avionics shop that will
do the tests required. All instruments are TSO'd. TIA
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Tip-Up Canopy Fiberglass Strip |
Listers,
One of the last items on my -6A prior to paint is to fiberglass the 2-3"
strip that is on the rear of the tip-up portion of the canopy and covers the
forward edge of the fixed portion of the canopy. I've got a few questions
on how to properly perform this lay-up.
First, what is used to protect the rear canopy from the resin as it is
drying? I want a good fit in this area, but need to prevent the resin from
sticking. I have mold release agent from ASS, but was concerned that it
will harm the plexiglass or allow some resin to "bleed though".
Second, once the strip has dried, should it then be pop-rivetted to the
tip-up portion as an additional mechanical means of holding it on?
Third, are there any methods to seal this strip as it covers the fixed
plexiglass? I'm concerned about water seeping in though this joint.
Fourth, any additional info on this?
Thanks in advance.
Scott Gesele (N506RV, It WILL fly this Spring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Variprime question |
> Chris, you're completely 180 degrees off course on this one!
>
and VariPrime.
>
> ... Gil (I'm using an epoxy p%^&$#) Alexander
>
> RV6A, #20701 ... working on glassing tail tips and canopy
>
I stand ...errr, sit corrected. Like you said 'RTFM'.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
>RPM. I was getting 175 mph tias at full gross weight, and 180 mph tias 2
>hours later. I averaged 6.2 gallons per hour on this 2 1/3 hour flight.
>
>I guess it would be asking for too much to get 200 mph tias with the Ivoprop
>w/o the supercharger at 7,500' density altitude, or would it?
>
>Jim Ayers
Ok, Jim. Please don't consider this a flame, but I am really confused now.
Is TIAS true airspeed or indicated airspeed or some combination of the
two? At the altitudes you are talking there is a big difference in
indicated and true airspeed.
Larry
Pacer N8025D
RV-6 N441LP applied for, vertical stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Edge distances for rivets |
I'm working on the fuselage skeleton and wanted
to review the rivet edge distance requirements.
I went back to Van's instructions that talk about
riveting and found the stuff for rivet length, etc.
but could not find the information about edge
distance requirements.
Could someone please post this to the list for
at least the ANxxx3 and ANxxx4 rivets.
Thanks.
P.S. I don't have access to the archives, just
the messages I've saved over the years.
Doug Medema, RV-6A, fuselage forward skeleton.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns (was fuel injection) |
I missed the original post which brought this response from Gary. I too
would be very interested in details about such a system. I would think that
dual fuel selectors would be VERY prone to create a fuel mismanagement
problem. Does anyone know of a dual path fuel selector, or of a way to gang
2 standard selectors?
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>
><< 1. Plumb your tanks for fuel return lines. You may not need them, but its
>a darn sight easier blocking them than having to put them in after the fact.
>>>
>
>Ken-
>
>How is this done in order to return the fuel to the tank from which it came?
> Is there a dual path fuel selector valve that is used or what. I understand
>the theory of the return concept and the benefits, I just don't understand
>the practical execution of the concept.
>
>Please articulate the details of your system.
>
>Interested,
>Gary VanRemortel
>vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tip-Up Canopy Fiberglass Strip |
Scott,
I used saran wrap to cover the rear canopy and had no resin sneak through.
It allowed for a very tight fit. Be carefull that resin doesn't run down
the sides of the fuselage. I didn't use pop rivets and after 400 hours have
had no problem. Make sure you scuff up the plexiglass for a good bond. Pop
rivets wouldn't hurt if you want to go to the extra work. I didn't seal that
gap any further and have had no problems with rain while on the ground or
very light rain while in the air. I've had no experience with heavy rain
while flying.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
<< My RPM is prop overspeed at 2640 and MP is 32.0, full rich mixture. Fuel
flow is 9.6 GPH for 21.88 miles per gallon.>>
32 inches. I don't think I have ever seen that in an un-turbocharged
aircraft at any altitude. Check your gauge and lines. Otherwise you are
making 115% hp!!!
<>
Your pitch is correct. At 8,000' (DAlt) with full power (about 21.5 to 22.5
inches) you should see 2600RPM max. This is what you want with that prop.
If you went with a 79" prop you would only see about 2525RPM @ max. Your
fuel flow would decrease (slightly) and your speed would stay the same
however, your climb would suffer.
<>
Welcome to the club. If you think that's bad, wait until you start
blowing-off work, family and just about everything else just to fly that
wonderful airplane. Have fun
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pedestal Vertical Card Compass |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> Tell us about the pedestal vertical card compass (wet). I am
>familiar with the Precision and the Hamilton, but I don't think they are
>wet. What is the brand name, source and cost? Are you pleased with
>it?
Hi Ron. It is the Hamilton unit. After reading the ACS description, I
stand corrected - it is in fact a dry compass. I bought the unit a
couple of years ago after talking to someone at ACS about it. I was
curious exactly how it worked, as I had never seen or heard of one
before. This person told me that it operated exactly like a wet compass,
but through a series of very small gears it drove a card instead of the
ball. After using it, it lead/lags just like a wet compass, so I just
went on believing that. If anyone can shed some light on how it really
DOES operate, I would appreciate it.
I purchased it because I built a VFR airplane without a vacuum system,
and I liked the idea of have a DG-type face on the compass. I'm very
happy with it, and it works just as well as whiskey compass, but is much
easier to use. I highly recommend it for anyone not planning on
installing a DG.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
aol.com!Mlfred(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << Now if I can just get around
> to making those fiberglass wing fairings...
>
> Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96 >>
>
> Surely you know about the fairings available from Sam James? $200 for the
> pair. I wish I'd had them when I built my -4.
>
> 941-675-4493 & tell him I sent ya.
>
> Check six!
> Mark
Mark,
Can you elaborate on the Sam James Wing fairings? Thanks.
Ed Cole
RV6A #24430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
| Subject: | Re: Edge distances for rivets |
>but could not find the information about edge
>distance requirements.
>
>Could someone please post this to the list for
>at least the ANxxx3 and ANxxx4 rivets.
>
>
>Doug Medema, RV-6A, fuselage forward skeleton.
Edge distance requirements are 1 1/2d from the edge of the hole. Or 2d from
the middle of the hole. If we are talking middle of the hole that is 1/4"
for 1/8" rivets and 3/16" for 3/32" rivets. It's a little easier for me to
think of it from the middle of the hole.
Larry
Pacer N8025D
RV-6 Vertical Stab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Donnelly" <daved(at)humminbird.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
<3322347B.25C3(at)lafn.org>
> You might look at the possibility of overlaping the outboard
>skins over the inboard. This way it would be a lot more waterproof.
>
The plans for an RV 4 indicate the outer skins DO overlap the inner skins.
I noticed on a friend's RV 6 plans that the opposite was true.
Dave D - -4 Fuselage on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Donnelly" <daved(at)humminbird.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
>
>Does anyone have recommendations on how to uniformly bevel the .032 and
>.025 wing skins at where they overlap? What techniques/tools have given
>good results?
>
>Thanks....Jack, RV4, drilling the wing skins
>
Jack,
I am at the same point on a -4. I marked the overlap areas on initial
assembly, then laid the skin flat on a wood surface and hand filed a bevel
leaving about .030" at the edge. I used a random orbit sander with #220
grit to even the taper out, then finished with 3M scotchbrite. I am pleased
with the results.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
>William H Shaw wrote:
>> RV6 tail kit with no space to build.:>(
>
>Sorry, Bill, that won't wash with me. :) Clean out your living room
>and get to it!
Yeah!!! Check out my page http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/homebilt.htm for the
amount of room required to build a tail.
BTW: If build time is proportional to the distance from refrigerator to
workshop, the best place to build might be in the kitchen.
>PatK - RV-6A - Pausing to build a model sailplane for Spring...
Sorry, Pat, that won't wash either... build the model after the RV is finished.
Frank - RV-6 - Not much work recently due to romantic pressures...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Right Brake Is Locking (fwd) |
Everyone is focusing on the pedals.
I have seen more problems at the wheel end.
I would check the caliper to make sure it is floating freely on
the two pins. There are a number of problems that can occur
at the wheel.
- The wheel pant can be rubbing on the caliper.
- The pins in the caliper can rust and bind up in the holes
- Make sure none of the screws that hold on the fairings around
the wheel pant are causing a problem.
Herman
>
> It could be that there when you apply rudder the brakes come on without
> touching the brake pedal. Get down and check the swing of your rudder pedal
> to make sure this doesn't happen. If it is the case you will have to take it
> apart and "relief" the metal on the assembley so that the pedal can swing
> free without applying brake.
>
> Tom Martin
> RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
mcomeaux wrote:
>
>
> I'm new to this. I'm starting a RV-6A. Have no questions
> as of yet. Would someone contact me to confirm that
> I'm reaching this system. I am really looking forward to
> this project.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Mike Comeaux
> (Sunriver Oregon)
> Email mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
Welcome to the list. You probably have gotten a hundred responses by
now, but hello anyway! See you around. Michael Lott, rv-4 (starting
fuselage, finishing wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Edge distances for rivets |
> wanted to review the rivet edge distance requirements.
Doug,
Minimum is two times the diameter of the rivet, ie. -3 (3/32) is 3/16
minimum and a -4 (1/8) is 1/4 minimum. Two and a half is better but
two is the minimum.
Aloha,
Russ Werner
Maui Hawaii USA
mailto:russ(at)maui.net sends to me
mailto:RV-List(at)matronics.com sends to the RV List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bseckstein(at)aol.com |
A while ago, someone asked if RST had started shipping the new Audio Panel.
Well, I got mine today.
Also, I sent in an updated listing of Tony Bingelis' S.A. articles into John
Hovan and I see that he posted it. I had forgotten many of the great
articles he wrote over the years. Does anyone else have the problem of
deciding which S.A. article to read first now that Tony has retired?
Brian Eckstein
6A wings (and electronics too)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
> This question came up about a year ago. At that time, no one could
> find anyplace in the FARs that specified whether you needed TSO'd
> equipment for IFR flight.
With some exceptions (ELT, Transponder, and IFR GPS). Ref. FAR 91.205,
91.207, and 91.215.
> To be sure of the Real Answer, I would recommend a call to the local
> FSDO or perhaps someone at EAA could help.
Except that some misinformed FAA inspectors have been known to assert
that TSO approval is a requirement for radios, etc. for IFR, while
others know better.
I disagree with some who say "your can is riding on it, so pay for
TSO.", I think there is some room for judgement here. Is the particular
item primary or secondary? Is there a backup? Is there reason to
believe a particular make/model that is not TSO'd is as good or better
than a different one that does have the TSO approval? An example would
be the less expensive King radios, which compare favorably against
some TSO'd radios from other manufacturers (especially older models).
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James & Mary Mc Phee <bluegum(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator questions |
>
All the RV's flying in New Zealand use an alternator from a Mazda 323, circe
1986, it is 60 amps, compact, has the fan internal on steel ball bearings
and in my RV-6 has now completed 300 hours with absolutely no problem.. It's
nice not to worry about it and also not worry about a regulator either.>
James Mc Phee RV-6 S/No 20334 ZK-MRV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcon(at)ix.netcom.com (Robert M. Cornacchia ) |
You wrote:
>
>
>I'm new to this. I'm starting a RV-6A. Have no questions
>as of yet. Would someone contact me to confirm that
>I'm reaching this system. I am really looking forward to
>this project.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Mike Comeaux
> (Sunriver Oregon)
> Email mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
>
Hi Mike,
welcome aboard.
Bob Cornacchia Mooney N5754Q
Building RV6 Working on wings
Markham,IL
bcon(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Aircraft root fairings |
<< Mark,
Can you elaborate on the Sam James Wing fairings? Thanks.
Ed Cole
RV6A #24430 >>
OK, here goes:
Sam has been working in fiberglass since Noah built the ark. LOTSA
marine-type experience (Miss Budweiser). He's currently working on a -4. Call
him and ask him for a brochure (it has good pics), or see him at Sun-n-Fun.
He lives near there.
The things are 2 pcs., with a joint near the rear spar, not gel coated ( see
thru 'em), and appear to be 2 or 3 plys of 8 or 9 oz cloth, and they wrap
from the bottom skin overlap (on the bottom of the wing) to past the trailing
edge and form a neat point there, The things are flexible enough to conform
to where ever you need to place them- I helped a fella mount a set, and we
put a bead of bondo under the edge to get a nice edge. Not a big deal, and
they came out nice. We used #6 c/s screws & those dreaded nutplates. Took
about 3 hrs.
Sam also has a nifty 2-pc set of wheel pants, MUCH better than the 2-pc units
I bought from Van's a few years ago when I did my -4. (I heard this
production run of pants were discontinued due to lack of quality for a
while). Again, no gel coat, so you can see thru 'em to hit the mount plates
correctly, like the -6 spinners. Maybe Van's could supply these? Bill? Hmmm?
Geez, that's pretty crass commercialism....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RST Audio Panel |
>A while ago, someone asked if RST had started shipping the new Audio Panel.
> Well, I got mine today.
What can you tell us about it?
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve and Linda Martens <ex-plane(at)gpcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Right Brake Is Locking (fwd) |
Herman Dierks wrote:
>
>
> Everyone is focusing on the pedals.
> I have seen more problems at the wheel end.
> I would check the caliper to make sure it is floating freely on
> the two pins. There are a number of problems that can occur
> at the wheel.
> - The wheel pant can be rubbing on the caliper.
> - The pins in the caliper can rust and bind up in the holes
> - Make sure none of the screws that hold on the fairings around
> the wheel pant are causing a problem.
> Herman
> >
> > It could be that there when you apply rudder the brakes come on without
> > touching the brake pedal. Get down and check the swing of your rudder pedal
> > to make sure this doesn't happen. If it is the case you will have to take it
> > apart and "relief" the metal on the assembley so that the pedal can swing
> > free without applying brake.
> >
> > Tom Martin
> > RV-4
> > I agree with Tom, I've experience a brake lock up on land with a -4
that my very talented father built. I traced the problem back to the
wheel area, the calipers were gummed up and locking. I cleaned the pins
and caliper and have not had a repeat performance on adrenalene rushs
lately. This is my first attempt on contributing ifo. Wish me luck!
Steve, 47 year old Nebraska Farmer.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip-Up Canopy Fiberglass Strip |
>One of the last items on my -6A prior to paint is to fiberglass the 2-3"
>strip that is on the rear of the tip-up portion of the canopy and covers the
>forward edge of the fixed portion of the canopy. I've got a few questions
>on how to properly perform this lay-up.
>
>First, what is used to protect the rear canopy from the resin as it is
>drying? I want a good fit in this area, but need to prevent the resin from
>sticking. I have mold release agent from ASS, but was concerned that it
>will harm the plexiglass or allow some resin to "bleed though".
>
>Second, once the strip has dried, should it then be pop-rivetted to the
>tip-up portion as an additional mechanical means of holding it on?
>
>Third, are there any methods to seal this strip as it covers the fixed
>plexiglass? I'm concerned about water seeping in though this joint.
>
>Fourth, any additional info on this?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Scott Gesele (N506RV, It WILL fly this Spring)
Scott,
I used some vinyl-like, self adhesive shelf paper to cover the rear glass.
I then waxed the paper with Johnson paste wax. Don't forget, epoxy resin
(I'm sure you know to use this instead of poly or vinyl ester resin) tend to
run off so make sure you cover things "down stream".
I lighty sanded (360 grit) the area to be bonded on the canopy and cleaned
the dust off with rubbing alcohol. I didn't rivet the strip to the canopy.
The epoxy seems to bond very well.
I didn't seal this area as I have the taildragger (which points downhill)
and didn't figure water intrusion would be a problem.
In the area where the fiberglass lip meets the canopy side skirts, I would
recommend that you make sure that there is a clean break between the two
surfaces and when painting, I would paint the fiberglass separately from the
aluminum. I faired the fiberglass into the aluminum skirts and got along
fine until cold weather. Then, I assume because of the differences in
expansion and contraction between the two materials, the paint cracked on
both sides. Maybe it would be possible to cut the paint with a razor blade
after it has set up awhile---kind of like expansion joints cut into concrete.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Edge distances for rivets |
Doug,
... the precise distances are in the HTML version of the riveting
MIL-spec at my web site ...
http://www.flash.net/~gila/
While they are generically 2 x rivet diameter, it does change
slightly (gets larger) when you consider contersunk and dimpled holes.
... get the real figures ... Gil Alexander
RV6A, #20701 .... glassing tail tips and canopy stuff
Click here for a private reply:- mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Hit "reply" to sent to the RV-list
>
>I'm working on the fuselage skeleton and wanted
>to review the rivet edge distance requirements.
>I went back to Van's instructions that talk about
>riveting and found the stuff for rivet length, etc.
>but could not find the information about edge
>distance requirements.
>
>Could someone please post this to the list for
>at least the ANxxx3 and ANxxx4 rivets.
>
>Thanks.
>
>P.S. I don't have access to the archives, just
>the messages I've saved over the years.
>
>Doug Medema, RV-6A, fuselage forward skeleton.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
Edward Cole wrote:>
> >
> > Surely you know about the fairings available from Sam James? $200 for the
> > pair. I wish I'd had them when I built my -4.
> >
> > 941-675-4493 & tell him I sent ya.
> >
> > Check six!
> > Mark
>
> Mark,
> Can you elaborate on the Sam James Wing fairings? Thanks.
> Ed Cole
> RV6A #24430
Ed,
Maybe I can help. I purchased a set of the wing fairings from Mr.
James. I've got my wings mounted, and the other day I couldn't resist
trial fitting the fairings. Man do they look cool! They're based on a
three inch radius to fair from the fuse to wing. The main piece extends
in one piece from under the wing starting at the fuel tank/wing skin
junction, forward and up around the fuel tank, and aft to the trailing
edge of the wing. Then there's a second piece that attaches to the
fuselage and continues aft of this covering the top of the flap/fuselage
junction and fairing quite nicely into the aft fuselage. I believe that
they're epoxy resin, and they're not gel coated. This will be handy
during drilling of fasteners, because you can see where your'e drilling!
I haven't installed mine yet, but I feel that they were worth the money.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
<3322347B.25C3(at)lafn.org> <3.0.1.16.19970310120722.3fcf042e(at)mail2.viper.net>
Dave Donnelly wrote:
>
>
>
> The plans for an RV 4 indicate the outer skins DO overlap the inner skins.
> I noticed on a friend's RV 6 plans that the opposite was true.
>
> Dave D - -4 Fuselage on order
I am looking at my RV-4 plans now and they show the INNER skins
overlaping the OUTER skins on sheet 19.
This isn't intended as a flame.
Carroll Bird
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Regarding fuel selectors,
It is my understanding that both the Lancair IV and the Stallion aircraft both
use such a selector. It switches both the supply and the return lines
simultaneously. I talked with the Stallion designer, Martin Hollmann, and he he
lead me to Lancair since they were his supplier. They refused to sell me one
however. Guess my money isn't good enough :-).
Stan Blanton
RV-6 fuselage
75472.372(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: alternator questions |
| From: | bearman5(at)juno.com (MICHAEL D HEIT) |
Bob,
What book are you refering to in the crowbar message ?? I'd like to get a
copy & read it. Thanks,
Mike Heit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Rivet shortening |
Fellow RVers (& GSers),
We had some rivets that needed shortening the other day on the Glastar
project and I thought maybe the method I use might be of interest to some of
you.
I'm not feally fond of the job that rivet cutters do, especially on # 3
rivets. Of course, I probably don't have the best cutter that money can buy
but even if it's a great cutter, cutting a lot of rivets is a slow process.
My cutter leaves a jagged, uneven edge and these rivets can sometimes be a
challenge to drive.
I have a few scraps of 1/8 and 1/4 inch bar stock lying around that I've
drilled a series of #40 and #30 (on the drill press, so they're straight)
holes to check my machine countersink before use on the airplane. The holes
are drilled about 1/2" apart (or a little closer) and there are several
rows. I also use this piece to shorten rivets. I stick a bunch of too long
rivets in the holes along with one or two rivets the correct length and then
place another piece of bar stock over the factory heads. I then shorten
them on the brown (med grit), Scotch brite wheel on my bench grinder. Your
eye will be pretty accurate as far as lining up perpendicular to the wheel
and in also judging the length of the rivet, especially since you have
placed a couple of rivets in the line up for reference. You end up with
polished, more "square" rivets with this method IMO and it's much faster.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
I have been giving some thought to the formula that uses 3 different
headings, 90 degrees apart, for TAS. Why 90 degrees? Why not 120 degrees as
this would give you a true triangle that should off-set any effects of wind.
Regardless of heading the formula doesn't seem to work. I used the formula
as posted by Joel Harding which was:
Sq rt of (X^2+Y^2+Z^2+[(X^2*Z^2)/Y^2])/2
I set-up my spread sheet so heading X=A1, heading Y=A2, heading Z=A3, Formula
lives in A4. Here is the formula:
=(SQRT(A1^2+A2^2+A3^2+((A1^2*A3^2)/A2^2))/2)
I haven't flown this profile in my RV because I wanted to understand how it
worked first. So the following examples are from my trusty old E6-B
(remember those).
Assumptions: GS (w/o wind)=160kts, Wind 270@20, Headings 270/000/090.
Course Heading for 270 gives a GS of 140 Kts
Course Heading for 090 gives a GS of 180 Kts
Course heading for 000 gives a GS of 160 Kts
Using the formula that was posted I get an answer of 153 Kts. This seems
wrong. The answer should be 160 Kts.
If I use headings 120 degrees apart I get the following:
Course Heading for 120 gives a GS of 178 Kts
Course Heading for 240 gives a GS of 143 Kts
Course heading for 000 gives a GS of 160 Kts.
Once again, using the formula I get an answer of 171 Kts. What am I missing?
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <DougR(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody have An Excel Worksheet For Calc. Speed From 3 GPSDirection |
Readings
IT would look like this
heading GPS speed
360 _____
120 _____
240 _____
true ground
speed =B2+B3+B4/3
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Dougr(at)netins.net
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
----------
> From: Scott Johnson <popmail.mcs.net!rvgasj(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Anybody have An Excel Worksheet For Calc. Speed From 3
GPSDirection Readings
> Date: Sunday, March 09, 1997 10:38 PM
>
>
> If you have an Excel Worksheet that calculates speed from 3 GPS direction
> readings, I would like to get a copy. Alternatively, if anybody has the
> formula handy, I would be glad to make the spreadsheet in Excel.
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
Does anyone know if the RV-6 cowling is still available two sizes??
Does anyone what their lengths were??
Ernesto Sanchez
E-Racer# 319
es12043(at)utech.net
----------
> From: aol.com!Mlfred(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: James Aircraft root fairings
> Date: Monday, March 10, 1997 5:01 PM
>
>
>
> << Mark,
> Can you elaborate on the Sam James Wing fairings? Thanks.
> Ed Cole
> RV6A #24430 >>
>
> OK, here goes:
>
> Sam has been working in fiberglass since Noah built the ark. LOTSA
> marine-type experience (Miss Budweiser). He's currently working on a -4.
Call
> him and ask him for a brochure (it has good pics), or see him at
Sun-n-Fun.
> He lives near there.
>
> The things are 2 pcs., with a joint near the rear spar, not gel coated (
see
> thru 'em), and appear to be 2 or 3 plys of 8 or 9 oz cloth, and they wrap
> from the bottom skin overlap (on the bottom of the wing) to past the
trailing
> edge and form a neat point there, The things are flexible enough to
conform
> to where ever you need to place them- I helped a fella mount a set, and
we
> put a bead of bondo under the edge to get a nice edge. Not a big deal,
and
> they came out nice. We used #6 c/s screws & those dreaded nutplates. Took
> about 3 hrs.
>
> Sam also has a nifty 2-pc set of wheel pants, MUCH better than the 2-pc
units
> I bought from Van's a few years ago when I did my -4. (I heard this
> production run of pants were discontinued due to lack of quality for a
> while). Again, no gel coat, so you can see thru 'em to hit the mount
plates
> correctly, like the -6 spinners. Maybe Van's could supply these? Bill?
Hmmm?
> Geez, that's pretty crass commercialism....
>
> Check six!
> Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
Carroll,
My plans also indicate outer skins overlapping inner skins. I remember
reading (dont remember where) that this change was made to prevent water
running into the joint when the plane is parked.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Dave Donnelly wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> The plans for an RV 4 indicate the outer skins DO overlap the inner skins.
>> I noticed on a friend's RV 6 plans that the opposite was true.
>>
>> Dave D - -4 Fuselage on order
>
> I am looking at my RV-4 plans now and they show the INNER skins
>overlaping the OUTER skins on sheet 19.
> This isn't intended as a flame.
>
> Carroll Bird
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet shortening |
>
> Fellow RVers (& GSers),
> We had some rivets that needed shortening the other day on the Glastar
> project and I thought maybe the method I use might be of interest to some of
> you.
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
The rivets are sold in X-X.5 sizes. I just bought a 1/10 Lb. of each size.
A few $$ up front will save lots of time. The 'oops' rivey set sold by avery
is a real good thing to have as well.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
Craig wrote:
>If I buy non TSO instruments are they IFR legal in an experimental.
>I cannot afford to install all of the IFR equipment right now, but
>later on I would like to go IFR.
I just bought a new R.C. Allen Turn Coordinator - brushless is desireable! - and
TSO was never mentioned. I suspect there is no choice. I also just bought a
rebuilt DG with no mention of TSO or not. *IF* there is a choice it is not
mentioned in several TAP ads, just get what everyone else gets.
You do see choices in avionics. I believe that the transponder and elt are
always TSO, required to be so, and so no choice is given. For everything else
that you might put in your RV, there is no requirement for TSO adherence. If
economy is important then TSO isn't.
My Deb's audio panel is King and everything else is Narco - Mk12D, Com 810, Nav
825, M1 loran. All of it is five or more years old, not TSO and has never given
any trouble. Same for Narco TXP but it is TSO. Many are going to VFR GPS.
If you do it in phases, begin with a good turn coordinator. No serious IFR is
done without the basic six tho the vertical speed indicator is not required by
law. An OAT is nearly essential as is a heated pitot. A wing leveler seems
like a minimum, especially in an RV!
However, the most important place to spend money is on training and proficiency.
Hal Kempthorne halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. (SJC)
Debonair N6134V A zillion RV-6AQ parts in the "hangar" we call home.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed prop |
>Problem: No change in prop (no rpm drop) when prop control tested during
>run up...
My off-the-cuff answer is that it sounds like no oil is getting to the
prop. Air in the governor line, maybe?
There was a short article in Light Plane Maintenance about Governors a year
ago. It says to check:
- Check the oil level in the crankcase.
- Check that oil is proper viscosity
- Check that oil is getting to the governor
- check that engine-driven oil pump is operating properly
- check for debris in the system
- look for sludge under the governor or in the prop hub
- look for frozen or corroded prop blade bearings.
Please let me know what you find.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
installing avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR certification |
>
> Does anyone know an avionics shop in the southwest that is friendly to
> experimental AC? I now have the instrumentation necessary to certify
> my RV-4 for IFR flight and would like to find an avionics shop that will
> do the tests required. All instruments are TSO'd. TIA
>
Dan,
Although I've not flown my RV yet, I called the local MIDO
(Manufacturing and Inspection District Office) in SAT and asked about
this. Mr Euler there told me that all I needed was an A&P signoff
that the plane was properly equipped for instrument flight. I don't
recall any mention of "tests" for IFR flight. I asked him if
somebody with a repairman certificate (me) could do the sign off. As
I recall, he said yes.
One would want the VOR(s) properly aligned, the altimeter within 75
feet, and a pitot static and encoder check done, I'd suppose. Please
let us know what you experience in getting your RV ready for IFR.
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Aircraft root fairings |
aol.com!Mlfred(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << Mark,
> Can you elaborate on the Sam James Wing fairings? Thanks.
> Ed Cole
> RV6A #24430 >>
>
> OK, here goes:
>
> Sam has been working in fiberglass since Noah built the ark. LOTSA
> marine-type experience (Miss Budweiser). He's currently working on a -4. Call
> him and ask him for a brochure (it has good pics), or see him at Sun-n-Fun.
> He lives near there.
>
Mark
Will sam have a booth or something at Sun-n Fun. I'm at the point
that if I'm going to put these on my RV-4 it's got to be now. I will
be at Sun-n-Fun for three day's and at Van's banquet. I would like to
see what they look like.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH #3562
Tallahassee,FL.
Eustace is shipping my " JUST REBUILT " O320 today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: James Aircraft root fairing |
Are the wing edge fairing set up for lights?
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
----------
> From: aol.com!Mlfred(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: James Aircraft root fairings
> Date: Monday, March 10, 1997 5:01 PM
>
>
>
> << Mark,
> Can you elaborate on the Sam James Wing fairings? Thanks.
> Ed Cole
> RV6A #24430 >>
>
> OK, here goes:
>
> Sam has been working in fiberglass since Noah built the ark. LOTSA
> marine-type experience (Miss Budweiser). He's currently working on a -4.
Call
> him and ask him for a brochure (it has good pics), or see him at
Sun-n-Fun.
> He lives near there.
>
> The things are 2 pcs., with a joint near the rear spar, not gel coated (
see
> thru 'em), and appear to be 2 or 3 plys of 8 or 9 oz cloth, and they wrap
> from the bottom skin overlap (on the bottom of the wing) to past the
trailing
> edge and form a neat point there, The things are flexible enough to
conform
> to where ever you need to place them- I helped a fella mount a set, and
we
> put a bead of bondo under the edge to get a nice edge. Not a big deal,
and
> they came out nice. We used #6 c/s screws & those dreaded nutplates. Took
> about 3 hrs.
>
> Sam also has a nifty 2-pc set of wheel pants, MUCH better than the 2-pc
units
> I bought from Van's a few years ago when I did my -4. (I heard this
> production run of pants were discontinued due to lack of quality for a
> while). Again, no gel coat, so you can see thru 'em to hit the mount
plates
> correctly, like the -6 spinners. Maybe Van's could supply these? Bill?
Hmmm?
> Geez, that's pretty crass commercialism....
>
> Check six!
> Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns (was fuel injection) |
><< 1. Plumb your tanks for fuel return lines. You may not need them, but its
>a darn sight easier blocking them than having to put them in after the fact.
Some fuel injection systems use return lines and others do not. The Bendix
system used on the IO520 on my Bonanza had a return line. The fuel
selector was actually two valves operated by a single lever and shaft,
switching the return line to the same tank fuel was being drawn from. (If
you want to search the salvage yards for a Bonanza fuel selector, you want
one from a P-model or later Bonanza)
The Bendix RSA5 Fuel Injection servo (used on the IO320 and IO360) however,
is not set up for a return line.
I also notice that the Airflow Performance boost pump expects there to be a
return line. I called them, and they said to plumb the return line from
the fuel pump to a fitting just downstream from the fuel selector.
Now you all know everything I know about return lines.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
installing avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Primer fuzzies - outcome |
It turns out that the reason I was getting fuzzies when I shot
VariPrime was because I wasn't mixing it enough or letting it
sit for a minute. Now I mix it well, let it sit five minutes, and
mix again. No fuzzies in sight! Thanks to all who made suggestions.
It is odd that I wasn't getting them during my whole empennage
construction - maybe I'm getting more anxious as time goes by!
------------------------------------------
Mitchell Faatz San Jose, CA
RV-6AQME N727MF (reserved)
Working on left wing: aileron/bellcrank hookup
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Flaherty <yogieb(at)pipeline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Right Brake Is Locking (fwd) |
>
> Everyone is focusing on the pedals.
> I have seen more problems at the wheel end.
> I would check the caliper to make sure it is floating freely on
> the two pins. There are a number of problems that can occur
> at the wheel.
> - The wheel pant can be rubbing on the caliper.
> - The pins in the caliper can rust and bind up in the holes
> - Make sure none of the screws that hold on the fairings around
> the wheel pant are causing a problem.
> Herman
>>
>> It could be that there when you apply rudder the brakes come on without
>> touching the brake pedal. Get down and check the swing of your rudder pedal
>> to make sure this doesn't happen. If it is the case you will have to take it
>> apart and "relief" the metal on the assembley so that the pedal can swing
>> free without applying brake.
>>
>> Tom Martin
>> RV-4
>>
>>
> One other thing can happen. On a cleveland type brake, if the brake
pad bolts are over torqued, it will cause the pad holders to slightly embed
themselves in to the caliper. Thus there will not be enough clearance
between the pads and the disk.
Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
>I have been giving some thought to the formula that uses 3 different
>headings, 90 degrees apart, for TAS. Why 90 degrees? Why not 120 degrees as
>this would give you a true triangle that should off-set any effects of wind.
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Gary,
I think maybe the formula you listed is wrong. I'll try to relay it to
you (and the listers that are interested) as it is stated in the Feb. 1995
issue of Kitplanes.
The computed groundspeed (V) equals the square root of (V1 squared + V2
squared + V3 squared + V1 squared x V3 squared / V2 squared) / 2.
V1, V2 and V3 are the groundspeed readings for each 90 degree leg.
In the first example, it gave V1 as 160 kts, V2 as 163 and V3 as 125. In
this example, V equals 144 knots.
I kind of took it on faith that the formula was accurate. I'm doggone
sure the wrong guy to try & figure out if it's accurate or not.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russ and Vici Noteman <noteman(at)open.org> |
Am looking for an 0320 conical engine mount for -4 or 6a. respond
email or 503-606-0342
need an 0320 conical engine mount for -4 or 6a. Respond email or
503-606-0342.
Russ Noteman, whole -4/6a@engine mount
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Ok, Jim. Please don't consider this a flame, but I am really confused
now.
Is TIAS true airspeed or indicated airspeed or some combination of the
two? At the altitudes you are talking there is a big difference in
indicated and true airspeed.
Larry
>>
Hi All,
Some airspeed indicators have a true airspeed window which is set by the
outside air temperature and the station altitude. I believe this is refered
to as True Indicated Airspeed (tias). I believe, if the error in the system
were known, that this would then be a True Airspeed (tas) rerading.
I don't have a calibrated airspeed system. I'm just looking at differences
in performance for now.
You're right about there being a big difference between ias and tias. At
17,500' with the Lyc. O-290 at full throttle and 2500 RPM, I was getting 185
tias and 137 ias.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine with Ivoprop Electric VP Prop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
> This question came up about a year ago. At that time, no one could
> find anyplace in the FARs that specified whether you needed TSO'd
> equipment for IFR flight.
With some exceptions (ELT, Transponder, and IFR GPS). Ref. FAR 91.205,
91.207, and 91.215.
> To be sure of the Real Answer, I would recommend a call to the local
> FSDO or perhaps someone at EAA could help.
Except that some misinformed FAA inspectors have been known to assert
that TSO approval is a requirement for radios, etc. for IFR, while
others know better.
I disagree with some who say "Your can is riding on it, so pay for
TSO.", I think there is some room for judgement here. Is the particular
item primary or secondary? Is there a backup? Is there reason to
believe a particular make/model that is not TSO'd is as good or better
than a different one that does have the TSO approval? An example would
be the less expensive King radios, which compare favorably against
some TSO'd radios from other manufacturers (especially older models).
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELLISON FUEL SYSTEM |
Listers,
I have been gone for a few days and had a lot of questions put to me about my
earlier post. Here is a hodge-podge of answers to all of the posts.
Someone asked what engine I had for my RV-6A. Sorry, it is not a 150 hp. I
have an O-320 E2D modified to put out 160 hp. It was built by Don George in
Lakeland Florida. He builds good engines. I have so much compression that I
can hardly turn the engine over without using both hands. I have about 50
hours on the engine and it does not use any oil that I can measure.
For all that wonder about the manifold pressures that I am reading on my RV,
I am using the Rocky Mountain Instruments sensor. It is electronic and
connects directly to one of the primer fittings. I will check to see if it
is leaking the next time I have the cowl off, but I doubt it because there is
just the pipe threaded fitting to leak. It reads correctly on the ground.
The top speed that I mentioned was indicated airspeed.
My climb rate is 1600-1800 fpm. I don't know what causes the roughness at
2300 RPM but I have a shock mounted instrument panel and it shakes at that
RPM. I plan to have my prop dynamically ballanced soon.
I have checked my fuel flow readings with the gas required to fill the tanks
and it is accurate to about 1/10th of a gallon on a one hour flight.
My airspeed indicator reads only knots. I just convert the numbers to mph so
that they look better :-). I'm an Air Force type, and we used knots too, so
the navy has no monopoly on them.
Jim Cone, RV-6A flying well!!!
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Performance Figures, Unusual Results ? |
My airspeed indicator reads only knots. I just convert the numbers to mph so
that they look better :-). I'm an Air Force type, and we used knots too, so
the navy has no monopoly on them.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wbgroup" <wbgroup(at)lantic.co.za> |
Hi Everyone
I've been trying to source Stewart Warner fuel senders here in South
Africa. I've been told that S W has been taken over by Rochester.
Anybody know anything different?
Also, can somebody please help me with a part number (or alternative) for
the sender, an address for ordering it and the approx. cost.
I'm considering installing a digital fuel guage; is a (?)capacitance sender
the only option?
Thanks
Brian Hitchings
RV6A, Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders |
Brian,
Vans have the senders in their catalog. If you are still having trouble
getting some I would be glad to get them and send them on to you . Le me
know....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: alternator questions |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
James,
What do you do to protect from an overvoltage situation?
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>
>>
>All the RV's flying in New Zealand use an alternator from a Mazda 323,
circe
>1986, it is 60 amps, compact, has the fan internal on steel ball
bearings
>and in my RV-6 has now completed 300 hours with absolutely no problem..
It's
>nice not to worry about it and also not worry about a regulator either.>
>
>James Mc Phee RV-6 S/No 20334 ZK-MRV
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Randall,
I agree. My Non-TSO'ed radio has already saved my butt when the TSO'ed
unit failed........
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
Henderson) writes:
>
>> This question came up about a year ago. At that time, no one could
>> find anyplace in the FARs that specified whether you needed TSO'd
>> equipment for IFR flight.
>
>With some exceptions (ELT, Transponder, and IFR GPS). Ref. FAR 91.205,
>91.207, and 91.215.
>
>> To be sure of the Real Answer, I would recommend a call to the local
>> FSDO or perhaps someone at EAA could help.
>
>Except that some misinformed FAA inspectors have been known to assert
>that TSO approval is a requirement for radios, etc. for IFR, while
>others know better.
>
>I disagree with some who say "your can is riding on it, so pay for
>TSO.", I think there is some room for judgement here. Is the
>particular
>item primary or secondary? Is there a backup? Is there reason to
>believe a particular make/model that is not TSO'd is as good or better
>than a different one that does have the TSO approval? An example
>would
>be the less expensive King radios, which compare favorably against
>some TSO'd radios from other manufacturers (especially older models).
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6
>randall(at)edt.com
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
>I have been giving some thought to the formula that uses 3 different
>headings, 90 degrees apart, for TAS. Why 90 degrees? Why not 120
degrees as
>this would give you a true triangle that should off-set any effects of
wind.
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Gary,
Your problem is in the arrangement of A1, A2, and A3. It is critical the
A2 speed be the middle of the 3 headings. For your example 270 deg
140kts is A1, 000 deg 160kts is A2, and 090 deg 180kts is A3. If you plug
these into the formula you will get the proper 160kts. The A2 speed is
critical because it is the only speed used as a divisor.
It takes a lot of math to develop this formula but it works.
Charles Fink RV-6, N548CF 92hours
chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
Albuquerque, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
A while back there was a thread about setting up a Lycoming
engine for a fixed pitch prop. I have bought a majored 0-360 A1A from a
man in St Louis. When I picked this engine up I told him to convert it
to a fixed pitch setup. He put in a plug in the front of the engine and
a plug where the oil line comes out of the engine.
After reading this thread I got to wondering if he had pierced
the back plug in the shaft. I called and asked him if that was done. He
gave me an resounding NO. I asked him why he hadn't done this and he
replied that he had never heard of such a thing. I read him the Lycoming
Service Instruction that pertains to this and explained why it had to be
done. There was a long silence on the other end of the line.
He sent me a new plug. Now, my problems are two-fold
1. What is the best way to get that plug out of the shaft?
2. After piercing the back plug, what is the best way to install the new
plug?
When he put in the existing plug it appears that he has the
concave side toward the rear of the shaft. In the drawing in the April
'95 it shows the concave side toward the front. Which is the proper way?
Any help with this will be appreciated.
Carroll Bird -- RV-4, fitting canopy frame and instrument panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bseckstein(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Prop |
Even though I'm still a couple years away from completion on the RV, I've
decided that this Skyhawk pilot should start to get some more complex, higher
speed experiences. Towards that goal, I've been getting some dual in an
Arrow. Now this is the first time I have had to deal with CS and retract.
The retract seems straight forward enough, but I'm not comportable yet with
the CS prop. From my complex experiences so far (2.8 hours of simulated
instrument approaches) it seems that I've essentially got 2 useful RPM
settings: 2400 and 2700, then adjust power for given conditions. Am I
looking at this right? I won't see my instructor for another week, so any
info I can get will help in mental preparation. Any experienced advice will
be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Brian Eckstein
Bseckstein(at)aol.com
6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bseckstein(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Useful ad in homebuilt.com |
Subject: For Sale: Whelen Navigation / Strobe / Position Light System
From: schleicher(at)aol.com (Schleicher)
Date: 11 Mar 1997 04:00:36 GMT
Posting for a friend, call him directly:
For Sale
Whelen Navigation / Strobe/ Position Light System
Package includes:
(1) A-600PR-14V Wingtip combination Nav/Strb/Pos light
(1) A-600PG-14V Wingtip combination Nav/Strb/Pos light
(1) A-413 HDS, 14V, SF Power Supply
(1) HD-60 Installation kit.
Everything is unused, still in the box.
Easily a $550.00 value, only $300.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer fuzzies - outcome |
>
>
>
> It is odd that I wasn't getting them during my whole empennage
> construction - maybe I'm getting more anxious as time goes by!
>
>
> ------------------------------------------
> Mitchell Faatz San Jose, CA
> RV-6AQME N727MF (reserved)
> Working on left wing: aileron/bellcrank hookup
>
Maybe the primer in the original can needs to be stired better. I
noticed that as I used myu first can ov Variprime, there was a slight
change in color. I determined that some of the solids had settled
at the bottom of the can. Better stiring before use cured this
problem.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Drew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice Needed - Problems With My Gas Caps |
Tim,
With regard to your problem with your gas caps, I experienced the
same broken pin and difficulties in getting a tight seal. My repair
was using a small drill bit as suggested in the archives and it is
still doing service after 10 months of flying.
I am very aware of the closing load on both the repaired cap and the
original one and now take care to wet the O ring with petrol before
replacing the cap. This lubricates the ring and allows it distort as
intended to achieve a good seal without placing too much load on the
lever system. Incidently both O rings are the original black variety
and are in good shape having been purchased in 1991.
Noel Drew
noeldrew(at)iafrica.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
I plan on installing electronic fuel injection some time this year. While I
had my RV apart for painting this (past) winter I took the time to retro-fit
the left fuel tank for a return line. I decided to only have a return into
the one tank to avoid two fuel selectors as well as fuel lines running all
over the place. In an EFI set-up, the return pressure is low (2 psi) and the
rate in cruise flight is about 8 gph. As long as start-up, taxi, take-off
and climb are conducted on the left tank it should be easy to manage the fuel
in the tanks. Running the left tank for one hour and the right for 1/2 hour
should work just fine.
If I find that fuel mangament becomes a problem I can always run a return to
the right tank and try to find a selector which will allow the switching of
both to and from lines.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
I just bought the Van's senders and I think they were only like $15 each
or so. Van's sells a digital fuel gauge that is compatible with these
(SW) senders.
> ----------
> From: Wbgroup[SMTP:lantic.co.za!wbgroup(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 1997 12:46 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Senders
>
>
> Hi Everyone
>
> I've been trying to source Stewart Warner fuel senders here in South
> Africa. I've been told that S W has been taken over by Rochester.
>
> Anybody know anything different?
>
> Also, can somebody please help me with a part number (or alternative)
> for
> the sender, an address for ordering it and the approx. cost.
>
> I'm considering installing a digital fuel guage; is a (?)capacitance
> sender
> the only option?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Brian Hitchings
> RV6A, Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Three Leg GPS for TAS |
O.K. Here's the deal on the formula (which is correct in my Excel
spreadsheet). You will notice that in my examples from yesterday that I
picked three headings which apeared 90 degrees apart, but in fact they were
not.
That formula requires that the heading changes be +/- 90 degrees. In other
words if your first heading is 360, your second must be either 090 or 270.
The third heading must be 180. So to use the formula you should fly a fixed
heading (it doesn't matter what heading). After the GS reading on the GPS
stabilizes turn 90 degrees to the right. Wait for the GS to stabilize once
again and turn right 90 degrees. Now plug these three values into the
formula IN THE ORDER THAT YOU GOT THEM.
In my example yesterday I flew one heading, added 180 degrees and then
subtracted 90 degrees. That's why it didn't work for me. I'm now a
beleiver.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
> My Deb's audio panel is King and everything else is Narco.
> All of it is five or more years old, not TSO and has never given
> any trouble. Same for Narco TXP but it is TSO.
Here's my 2 cents worth on correlating TSO with quality...
Maybe some items must be TSO'd to be used for IFR, but another factor in
whether avionics need to be TSO'd or not is simply the aircraft they are
installed in - certificated vs. experimental.
FAR 21.303 requires any part installed on a certificated aircraft to be
approved by PMA, STC, or TSO, except standard parts like bolts. Until a
couple of years ago this was rather loosely interpreted by FAA, so that
"non-hazardous" items like avionics were allowed to be produced and used
on certificated aircraft without being approved. When the unapproved
parts issue popped up in the media a couple of years ago FAA began
strictly enforcing FAR 21.303. Any part not in compliance with 21.303 is
now considered a non-approved part and the manufacturer, aircraft owner,
and installing A&P are subject to enforcement action. My FAA inspector
told me at the time that some major avionics manufacturers were actually
shut down for a time while they obtained approvals on all the products
they had been selling for years. I doubt if any changes were made in the
design or manufacture of the products to get the approvals. More than
likely it just involved setting up documentation systems for tracability
of components.
This FAA "about face" impacted me because engine heaters used to be
considered a "non-hazardous" part not requiring any approval. A couple of
years ago they told us our products are subject to 21.303 and we were
advised to obtain a PMA, which we did. Nothing involving the design or
manufacture of the heaters changed (except markings) in order to get the
approval - just record keeping.
Bottom line: FAA approval doesn't necessarily mean a product is better
than one that's not approved. The problem is, as a consumer you may not
know all the facts about a product and how it was built. In that case,
approval gives the consumer a higher degree of confidence that the
product is airworthy because of the manufacturer's compliance with the
requirements on quality control, component traceability, etc. You need
to weigh your knowledge of the product, your confidence in it, the
consequences of a failure, and the cost difference between the approved
and non-approved part in arriving at a buy decision.
Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
Gary,
I'm interested for the same reason. I also plan on EFI. I'm
planning/building tanks now, and plan on return lines to both tanks.
Do you have any numbers for fuel return rate with the system you are
planning to use? I dont have any quantifiable numbers, but my experience
with EFI on cars from my hotrod days was that quite a lot of fuel returns to
the tank. I would be concerned that this would become quite a fuel
management problem in a dual tank, single return system.
I'm also considering using a header tank. The wing tanks would feed the
header, the header would feed the engine, and the return line would come
back to the header. Seems like there would be potential install problems
with this idea. Any comments?
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>I plan on installing electronic fuel injection some time this year.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Charles,
For those of us that like the technical aspects of this, could you
send us the solution to the math of this formula?
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Gary,
>Your problem is in the arrangement of A1, A2, and A3. It is critical
>the
>A2 speed be the middle of the 3 headings. For your example 270 deg
>140kts is A1, 000 deg 160kts is A2, and 090 deg 180kts is A3. If you
>plug
>these into the formula you will get the proper 160kts. The A2 speed is
>critical because it is the only speed used as a divisor.
>
>It takes a lot of math to develop this formula but it works.
>
>Charles Fink RV-6, N548CF 92hours
>chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
>Albuquerque, New Mexico
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crankshaft Service Bulletin |
32,34,36-37,39,41,43,45,47,49,51,53-60
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers,
I just performed the Crankshaft Service Bulletin on my RV-6.. This is
what I did:
1. Pull the crankshaft plug by drilling an 1/8" hole near the center,
then use an auto body dent
puller to remove the plug. You will be shocked to see what is inside.
Mine had at least
1/4" of hard sludge that literally had to be peeled off.
2. If you (for whatever reason) have a plug in the rear of the crankshaft
hole, leave it there
until you have cleaned out the sludge. When you're all done cleaning,
use a long drill
bit that has been sharpened to a point, to pierce a hole in the rear
plug, if it isn't
already there......
3. I found the cleaning process made easy by using an old hacksaw blade
that had its
teeth taken off with a bench belt sander. I also found that bending a
90* hook on the
end helped shovel out the sludge. Be careful not to plug or damage
the oil feed through
that is part way down the crankshaft hole.
4. Finish the cleaning process with the liberal use of carburetor cleaner
to rinse out any
remaining sludge. Tilting the nose over (if you have a tail dragger)
helps a lot, but by
pushing a clean rag into the hole, you can achieve the same results.
5. For those engines that don't have the rear plug installed, you need
something inserted
into the crankshaft hole to prevent loose materials from falling into
the engine case. I
found that a large plastic, hose connector plug with an additional
loop of wire feed
through it, worked well. It's easily removed when the operation is
completed, by hooking
the bent hacksaw blade onto the wire loop and pulling it out.
6. The front plug can be purchased at you local auto parts store, Van's,
or any Lycolming
engine parts source. It's nothing more than a 2" convex freeze plug
(not the type with
side walls, just plain convex or concave, depending how you're
looking at it.) Use
Permitex (NOT RTV) gasket sealer on the inside lip of the crankshaft
and on the
edges of the freeze plug. Insert into the crankshaft with the convex
surface out (or the
concave surface in..) Use a 2 lb hammer and a 1" metal dowel to set
the plug into place.
the convex surface should be set such that it is almost flat. If you
want better oil leakage
protection, put a thin bead of High Temp RTV on the outside
circumference of the plug.
Hope this helps......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Crankshaft Plug |
30-31,33-35,37,39-48,50-58,60,62-80
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Carroll
I just complied with the crankshaft service bulletin last weekend.
This is what I did:
1. Borrow an outomotive Dent Puller, or make your own. It's basically a
tappered bit on a long shank that has a 1-2 lbs sliding weight on
the handle
end.
2. Drill a hole near the center of the crackshaft plug. Screw in the
puller's bit,
then use the puller to pull the plug out of the crank.
3. Prior to piercing the rear plug, clean the inside of the crank shaft.
I used an
old hacksaw blade that had it's teeth removed on a belt sander.
Bending one
end 90* to form a scraper helps a lot. Clean with carburator cleaner.
Those
of you with taildraggers can tilt the nose down to drain out excess
cleaner
fluids. The rest of us have to use a rag to clean it out.
4. I didn't have a plug in the rear, but you could easily pierce it with
a long
drill bit that has been sharpened to a point.
5. If you need to be perform this cleaning operation and do not have the
rear
plug installed, use a large plastic hose connector plug with a wire
loop
inserted into the rear of the crankshaft to keep debris from falling
into the crankcase. (This works well.) The wire loop allows you to
hook
the hacksaw scrapper onto the wire to remove the plug.
6. A new plug can be obtained from your local auto parts store. It is a
2"
concave freeze plug. It should be inserted with the convex surface
outward. First use Permatex (NOT RTV) on the crankshaft inside
plug seat surface and on the edges of the freeze plug, then insert
the
freeze plug. Use a 2 lbs hammer and a steel 1" dowel to compress
the
freeze plug into the crankshaft.
Hope this helps.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
(TTC Carroll A. Bird) writes:
>Bird)
>
> ***** SNIP ******
>
> After reading this thread I got to wondering if he had pierced
>the back plug in the shaft. I called and asked him if that was done. He
>gave me an resounding NO. I asked him why he hadn't done this and he
>replied that he had never heard of such a thing. I read him the Lycoming
>Service Instruction that pertains to this and explained why it had to be
>done. There was a long silence on the other end of the line.
>
> He sent me a new plug. Now, my problems are two-fold
>1. What is the best way to get that plug out of the shaft?
>2. After piercing the back plug, what is the best way to install the
>new
>plug?
>
> When he put in the existing plug it appears that he has the
>concave side toward the rear of the shaft. In the drawing in the April
>
>'95 it shows the concave side toward the front. Which is the proper way?
>
> Any help with this will be appreciated.
>
> Carroll Bird -- RV-4, fitting canopy frame and instrument
>panel.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Leg GPS for TAS |
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
writes:
>
>O.K. Here's the deal on the formula (which is correct in my Excel
Gary Corde<<
Now i'm confused. Would you post that formula once again please.
Larry Mac Donald Just wrecked a HS602 lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bseckstein(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RST Audio Panel |
I was asked to elaborate a bit on the newly designed RST-564 Audio Panel I
just received. First of all, for anyone who doesn't know, it's a kit. There
are 8 inputs. The standard 2-com, 2-nav, adf, dme, mkr, aux. The aux has an
interesting feature in that it automatically mutes on any com activity. That
has made me think that maybe I will install a CD system. Maybe they all do
that nowadays. Voice activated intercom for up to 4 stations is included.
Panel face dimensions are: 6.5 X 1.5"
Box dimensions are: 6.125 X 1.375 X 4.75"
Tray is included: 6.25 X 4.5"
Weight 1.0 lb
Fail safe feature routes COM1 direct to speaker and headphones on Audio Panel
failure or power interruption.
I also purchased the optional remote mounted Marker Beacon receiver. The
lights are mounted in the audio panel, but the rest is in a box 2 X 1 X 5.5",
0.4 lb. The boxes appear to be anodized.
As long as I can keep from screwing up its appearance during construction, it
looks every bit as good as the $1000+ alternative choices (terra, ps, king).
RST says construction time is 15 - 20 hours, but to do a good and careful job
will likely take more. For anyone who has built Heathkits of Dynakits, the
instructions appear more basic and as you would expect, the chassis is filled
more densely with components. The construction manual is divided into two
parts: Construction techniques and Assembly instructions. It is hard to
imagine that anyone who can successfully build an airplane will have any
problems with the kit.
There is also an Operations and Maintenance Manual used for calibration and
testing. This manual looks superior to anything I have seen from Dyna or
Heath.
Cost: $220.00 for Audio Panel kit with intercom
$ 75.00 for Marker Receiver option
Compare that to the competition! Now, where can I buy build-it-yourself Com
(RST says they have one in design), NAV, GPS, XPonder, Gyro's, instruments,
...
More info is available at www.rst-engr.com/ including graphical images. Has
anyone used these folks for antenna's?
Brian Eckstein
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet shortening |
(Now THERE'S a way to refer to earlier posts without quoting NEARLY as much
text)
As I was reading your description, at first I thought you used the thickness
of the stock as some sort of guide. You might still want to if you can grind
it with some degree of precision to a certain thickness. Then it would be no
trouble whatsoever to turn a 4 rivit into a 3.5, or 3.25, etc, and get them
all accurate. (Well, I guess it depends on how much the Scotchbrite affects
the steel versus the aluminum).
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns (was fuel injection) |
> I also notice that the Airflow Performance boost pump expects there to
> be a return line. I called them, and they said to plumb the return
> line from the fuel pump to a fitting just downstream from the
> fuel selector.
You know, that makes so much sense I'm flabbergasted. No need for a header
tank, or return selector valves, or anything. I expect though that it would
also attach to the system upstream from any fuel pumps.
If the fuel flow sensor is upstream from the fitting, then you don't need to
worry about compensating for the return line either.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | -4 Fuselage question |
I am about to start riveting the skins on the fuselage of the 4, and would
like some input from other builders on whether it would be easier to do some
of the internal work before, or after riveting. I did the floors and the
elevator bellcrank already. How about the rudder pedals, sticks, elect.
flaps, etc.
Pat Allender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Magnetic Roll Bar Brace |
Some avionics shops have degaussing equipment which can be used on your
airframe. A friend of mine had the same problem with his sliding canopy
RV-6a and used a degausser to solve the problem. I can verify that his
compass was way offbefore degaussing, and now it's almost perfect.
Radio Shack has a bulk videotape eraser that "should" work as a degaussing
tool. It works good on bulk erasing of computer disks, too! Just pull
the trigger, work it around the object, and slowly pull it away before
releasing the trigger.
D. Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Advice Needed - Nippondenso Alternator Leaking Black |
Grease / Ov...
Fred,
Just wondered if you lost your alternator "inflight" or did you just put it
down somewhere and can't find it? BTW, I have seen Van many times, but I've
never noticed him carrying an alternator! Guess I'd better pay more
attention.
Good luck.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Frederic W Stucklen
Sent: Monday, March 10, 1997 6:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Advice Needed - Nippondenso Alternator Leaking Black
Grease / Ov...
Listers:
has anybody got the tel # of email address for B&C. I lost my
alternator last weekend. It was a Bosh 55 Amp originally from Vans (he
doesn't carry it anymore....)
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
><< Also, does anybody know of a good 50 or 60 AMP alternator model that
will
> fit in a normal RV6A cowling without making modifications to the cowl
size.
>>>
>
>The B&C L60 is your choice but the cost is commensurate with the
>quality.
>
>-GV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WELCOME TO THE MACHINE <PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.intel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns (was fuel injection) |
Greetings,
Be careful about re-routing the fuel return line back into the fuel pump. I
have seen a couple of installs on other aircraft where they get a vapor lock
problem because of the temps in the engine compartment. I am not sure how the
temps in the RV cowling run. One of these vapor lock problems occured right
after take off.
Pat Kirkpatrick
Rio Rancho, NM
RV-6A Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crankshaft Plug |
<< When he put in the existing plug it appears that he has the
concave side toward the rear of the shaft. In the drawing in the April
'95 it shows the concave side toward the front. Which is the proper way? >>
In Tony Bingelis' book "On Engines", he clearly shows the inner plug cupped
(concave) side facing the prop and the cupped (concave) side of the outer
plug facing away from the the prop.
This is the way it is in my factory new O-360-A1A.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
>Gary,
>Your problem is in the arrangement of A1, A2, and A3. It is critical the
>A2 speed be the middle of the 3 headings. For your example 270 deg
>140kts is A1, 000 deg 160kts is A2, and 090 deg 180kts is A3. If you plug
>these into the formula you will get the proper 160kts. The A2 speed is
>critical because it is the only speed used as a divisor.
>
>It takes a lot of math to develop this formula but it works.
>
>Charles Fink RV-6, N548CF 92hours
>chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
>Albuquerque, New Mexico
Changing the arrangement of A1, A2 and A3 makes the formula work in this
specific example, but I can't get it work in most other examples that I
tried. For example, assume that the TAS is 170 kt, and the wind is from
045 degrees at 30 kt.
The ground speed on a heading of 135 deg would be 172.6 kt, on a heading of
045 deg the ground speed would be 140 kt, and on a heading of 315 deg the
ground speed would be 172.6 kt. The formula calculates a TAS of 176.4 kt.
If anyone can find an error in the above, please let me know.
For Gary, note that if the wind is on the wing tip, the ground speed does
not equal the TAS. Your ground speed is the hypotenuse of the wind
triangle in this case, so it equals the square root of (TAS squared + wind
squared).
Charles, I would appreciate if you could send me the math for this formula
so maybe I can sort out what is going on. I spent two hours on an airline
flight today trying to derive an equation to solve for TAS given three
ground speeds - the math started to get pretty tricky for a brain that has
been out of university for a while. I'm going to try some more tomorrow,
at least until my brain starts to hurt :-)
Kevin Horton
future RV-8 builder (lurking and gathering info, tools, etc)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: James Aircraft root fairings |
>
>
><< Mark,
> Can you elaborate on the Sam James Wing fairings? Thanks.
> Ed Cole
> RV6A #24430 >>
>
>OK, here goes:
>
>Sam has been working in fiberglass since Noah built the ark. LOTSA
>marine-type experience (Miss Budweiser). He's currently working on a -4. Call
>him and ask him for a brochure (it has good pics), or see him at Sun-n-Fun.
>He lives near there.
>
>The things are 2 pcs., with a joint near the rear spar, not gel coated ( see
>thru 'em), and appear to be 2 or 3 plys of 8 or 9 oz cloth, and they wrap
>from the bottom skin overlap (on the bottom of the wing) to past the trailing
>edge and form a neat point there, The things are flexible enough to conform
>to where ever you need to place them- I helped a fella mount a set, and we
>put a bead of bondo under the edge to get a nice edge. Not a big deal, and
>they came out nice. We used #6 c/s screws & those dreaded nutplates. Took
>about 3 hrs.
>
>Sam also has a nifty 2-pc set of wheel pants, MUCH better than the 2-pc units
>I bought from Van's a few years ago when I did my -4. (I heard this
>production run of pants were discontinued due to lack of quality for a
>while). Again, no gel coat, so you can see thru 'em to hit the mount plates
>correctly, like the -6 spinners. Maybe Van's could supply these? Bill? Hmmm?
>Geez, that's pretty crass commercialism....
>
>Check six!
>Mark
I wonder which Bill we ar referring to. Actually I have a set of Sam's root
fairings also. I taped them on my -4 and performed some tests. The biggest
change was the elevator control. The elevator is very effective right up to
the stall. With standard trailing edge wing fillets, the elevator goes
mushy about the last 5 seconds prior to a stall. The stall speed also
decreased about 1-2 mph. The only negative was the mush I was refering to
might be considered a form of stall warning, and with the total control
right up to the stall, you don't have that additional warning. If it was
my choice, I would buy Sam's fairings. That way you will not have to swear
at us as you are making the transition from fiberglass to aluminum fairing.
I think Sam has a good product.
Wheel pants: This has been an issue that Sam and I have worked on and we
ran into a slight problem, and it was not between Sam and myself, so I
think it best that we leave that one alone. Van has been working on a new
two piece wheel fairing and it looks very nice. I don't know when-or-if it
will hit the market. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve and Linda Martens <ex-plane(at)gpcom.net> |
Thanks for the welcome Bob and Bill!
Just for you who don't know both of these characters, Bob has a brain
and a little hair, Bill has hair and a little brain.
Hal Kempthorne, thank you for the reply, it's a pleasure, and I'll try
to improve as time goes.
I'd like to give my two cents on performance calibration, I've always
simply flown one direction for a stable gps reading, then turn 180
degrees and flew the reciprocal at the same power setting and average
the two. A better method is to simply challenge a compost flyer to a
race and see who gets home first. I've got a Varieze builder, friend,
speed nut that has me by 12 seconds on a 50 mile course. Does anyone
want to come to Western Nebraska and take him on?
Enough! We're flying a -4 with a stock Lyc 150 hp. and finishing a -6.
All RV'rs are welcome to visit us at Grant, Muni. Airport, Grant, Ne.
GGF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> If I find that fuel mangament becomes a problem I can always run a return to
> the right tank and try to find a selector which will allow the switching of
> both to and from lines.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Mabye my brain isn't working well at the moment, but I can't think of
any reason why a 'tee' couldn't be used to plump the return into both
tanks. It seems that the design of the vents (with the rise well above
the level of the tanks would tend to keep the fuel going to the non-full
tank. The returns would have to enter the tanks at the high point like
the vent does (mabye just below it). What am I missing here?
Initially I was planning to plumb the return back to my gascolator which
I am mounting in the fuselage just downstream of the fuel selector at
the low point of the system (with a drain through the fuse floor). I'm
not sure I like this idea as much as having the fuel return to a tank
because air (NOT vapor, but air) bubbles if caught in the system would
keep recirculating, as far as I can figure.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
> Changing the arrangement of A1, A2 and A3 makes the formula work in this
> specific example, but I can't get it work in most other examples that I
> tried. For example, assume that the TAS is 170 kt, and the wind is from
> 045 degrees at 30 kt.
>
> The ground speed on a heading of 135 deg would be 172.6 kt, on a heading of
> 045 deg the ground speed would be 140 kt, and on a heading of 315 deg the
> ground speed would be 172.6 kt. The formula calculates a TAS of 176.4 kt.
>
> Kevin Horton
Kevin --
You have
TAS: 170
Wind: 45 at 30
Leg 1 (X): 315
Leg 2 (Y): 45
Leg 3 (Z): 135
Using my E6B, I get ground speeds of 168, 140 and 168, not the speeds you
listed. Plugging into the formula, it comes out to 170.8 knots. Assume
the .8 knots is due to the inaccuracies in using my E6B.
Note that if the wind is from 45, the ground speed is going to be the same
at 315 (-90 from 45) and at 135 (+90 from 45).
The formula listed previously still holds up.
I think, though, that you're *heading* 315/45/135, not *flying* these
headings. That is, you're doing your calculations as if you point the
nose towards 315, then see what the wind does. The formula doesn't work
that way. It wants you to fly 315, which involves finding a correction
angle that works, then noting the (stabalized) ground speed. This might
be the difference in the calculations. The GPS will tell you what your
ground track is, so you need to adjust your heading until your ground tracks
are 90 degrees apart.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Useful ad in homebuilt.com |
Mike ... I'll take it if it's still available .... Gil Alexander
gila(at)flash.net 310-391-4029
>
>Subject: For Sale: Whelen Navigation / Strobe / Position Light System
>From: schleicher(at)aol.com (Schleicher)
>Date: 11 Mar 1997 04:00:36 GMT
>Message-ID: <19970311040000.XAA04271(at)ladder01.news.aol.com>
>
>Posting for a friend, call him directly:
>
>For Sale
>
>Whelen Navigation / Strobe/ Position Light System
>
>Package includes:
>(1) A-600PR-14V Wingtip combination Nav/Strb/Pos light
>(1) A-600PG-14V Wingtip combination Nav/Strb/Pos light
>(1) A-413 HDS, 14V, SF Power Supply
>(1) HD-60 Installation kit.
>Everything is unused, still in the box.
>
>Easily a $550.00 value, only $300.00
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Is there a spray gun to use to primer with. Little to
cleanup--Paper cup Dispense? Any help? And how
does one find Archives related to RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
>
>Thanks for the welcome Bob and Bill!
>
>Just for you who don't know both of these characters, Bob has a brain
>and a little hair, Bill has hair and a little brain.
I am about the only guy on the list outside of Western Nebraska who knows
Bill so I'd better stick up for a fellow GlaStar builder. Tain't so.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
> Mabye my brain isn't working well at the moment, but I can't think of
> any reason why a 'tee' couldn't be used to plump the return into both
> tanks. It seems that the design of the vents (with the rise well above
> the level of the tanks would tend to keep the fuel going to the non-full tank.
The returns would have to enter the tanks at the high point like the vent does
(mabye just below it). What am I missing here?
Sounds great, but I tried it on a -4 . . . the fuel flowed out of the
vent lines.
>
> Initially I was planning to plumb the return back to my gascolator which
> I am mounting in the fuselage just downstream of the fuel selector at
> the low point of the system (with a drain through the fuse floor). I'm
> not sure I like this idea as much as having the fuel return to a tank
> because air (NOT vapor, but air) bubbles if caught in the system would
> keep recirculating, as far as I can figure.
I tried this one as well and the bubbles were a problem.
Robert Miller
rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DCHamilton(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | True airspeed from VOR |
True airspeed can be measured by flying between two VOR stations, as
described
by Barry Schiff in "Proficient Pilot II", p. 166. The essential trick is to
set the OBS
to 90 degrees from the intended course. When you pass the station, the
needle moves rapidly from being pinned on one side to pinned on the other.
This gives
a precise instant where you can click the stopwatch. -- David C. Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James fairings |
>>OK, here goes:
>>
>>Sam has been working in fiberglass since Noah built the ark. LOTSA
>>marine-type experience (Miss Budweiser). He's currently working on a -4. Call
>>him and ask him for a brochure (it has good pics), or see him at Sun-n-Fun.
>>He lives near there.
>>
>>The things are 2 pcs., with a joint near the rear spar, not gel coated ( see
>>thru 'em), and appear to be 2 or 3 plys of 8 or 9 oz cloth, and they wrap
>>from the bottom skin overlap (on the bottom of the wing) to past the trailing
>>edge and form a neat point there, The things are flexible enough to conform
>>to where ever you need to place them- I helped a fella mount a set, and we
>>put a bead of bondo under the edge to get a nice edge. Not a big deal, and
>>they came out nice. We used #6 c/s screws & those dreaded nutplates. Took
>>about 3 hrs.
>>
>>Sam also has a nifty 2-pc set of wheel pants, MUCH better than the 2-pc units
>>I bought from Van's a few years ago when I did my -4. (I heard this
>>production run of pants were discontinued due to lack of quality for a
>>while). Again, no gel coat, so you can see thru 'em to hit the mount plates
>>correctly, like the -6 spinners. Maybe Van's could supply these? Bill? Hmmm?
>>Geez, that's pretty crass commercialism....
>>
>>Check six!
>>Mark
>
I wonder which Bill we are referring to. Actually I have a set of Sam's root
fairings also. I taped them on my -4 and performed some tests. The biggest
change was the elevator control. The elevator is very effective right up to
the stall. With standard trailing edge wing fillets, the elevator goes
mushy about the last 5 seconds prior to a stall. The stall speed also
decreased about 1-2 mph. The only negative: the mush I was refering to
might be considered a form of stall warning, and with the total control
right up to the stall, you don't have that additional warning. If it was
my choice, I would buy Sam's fairings. That way you will not have to swear
at us as you are making the transition from fiberglass to aluminum fairing.
I think Sam has a good product.
Wheel pants: This has been an issue that Sam and I have worked on and we
ran into a slight problem, and it was not between Sam and myself, so I
think it best that we leave that one alone. Van has been working on a new
two piece wheel fairing and it looks very nice. I don't know when-or-if it
will hit the market. Bill
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
>>Changing the arrangement of A1, A2 and A3 makes the formula work
>>in this specific example, but I can't get it work in most other examples
>>that I tried. For example, assume that the TAS is 170 kt, and the wind
>>is from 045 degrees at 30 kt.
>>The ground speed on a heading of 135 deg would be 172.6 kt, on a
>>heading of 045 deg the ground speed would be 140 kt, and on a
>>heading of 315 deg the ground speed would be 172.6 kt. The formula
>>calculates a TAS of 176.4 kt.
>>If anyone can find an error in the above, please let me know.
For Gary, note that if the wind is on the wing tip, the ground speed does
not equal the TAS. Your ground speed is the hypotenuse of the wind
triangle in this case, so it equals the square root of (TAS squared + wind
squared).
Kevin,
Your error is an easy one to make. The ground speed is the base of the
wind triangle. The TAS is hypotenuse of the triangle so the ground
speeds in your example for 135 and 315 deg. should be 167.3 kts.
Remember if you are flying with the wind off one wing tip you are in a
constant crab with no tail wind so your ground speed should be slower
than your TAS. If you don't crab you will be blown off course but your
ground speed will equal your TAS.
>>Charles, I would appreciate if you could send me the math for this
>>formula >>SNIP<<
>>Kevin Horton
>>future RV-8 builder (lurking and gathering info, tools, etc)<<
I have another request for the math. It was several years ago when I
verified this formula. I didn't develop it. I am looking for my notes and I'll
try
to get something posted next weak although I think there were several
diagrams that made the math easer. These wouldn't translate well to
E-mail. I'll see what I can do. If it doesn't translate well and there aren't
too many request I'll snail mail it.
I've been out of school quiet a while also but they say these brain
exercises are good for you and my wife claims I need all the help I can
get. :>)
I am also working on the post of my high speed taxi test incident.
Charles Fink RV-6 N548CF
chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DCHamilton(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | True airspeed from GPS calc. |
I will mail a derivation of the true-airspeed-from-GPS formula to anyone who
wants to
send his paper mail address to me at DCHamilton(at)aol.com
Because of the superscripts and subscripts, it is too tedious to write the
derivation with this text editor. -- David C. Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
>
>>Gary,
>>Your problem is in the arrangement of A1, A2, and A3. It is critical the
>>A2 speed be the middle of the 3 headings. For your example 270 deg
>>140kts is A1, 000 deg 160kts is A2, and 090 deg 180kts is A3. If you plug
>>these into the formula you will get the proper 160kts. The A2 speed is
>>critical because it is the only speed used as a divisor.
>>
>>It takes a lot of math to develop this formula but it works.
>>
>>Charles Fink RV-6, N548CF 92hours
>>chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
>>Albuquerque, New Mexico
>
>Changing the arrangement of A1, A2 and A3 makes the formula work in this
>specific example, but I can't get it work in most other examples that I
>tried. For example, assume that the TAS is 170 kt, and the wind is from
>045 degrees at 30 kt.
>
>
>Kevin Horton
>future RV-8 builder (lurking and gathering info, tools, etc)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca
>Engineering Test Pilot
>Transport Canada
>Ottawa, Canada
I still don't see why everyone is interested in going to all this trouble.
With GPS it is quite easy to tell when you are going directly up or down
wind. Go upwind and note the groundspeed. Go downwind and note the
groundspeed. The average is TAS.
Average (mean) is math all of us can do.
Larry
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6 Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
<< Mabye my brain isn't working well at the moment, but I can't think of
any reason why a 'tee' couldn't be used to plump the return into both
tanks. >>
Your brain isn't working. If you take-off with full tanks and are drawing
off the left tank, you will vent half of your return out of the right tank
vent. If you want to return to both tanks you need a selector.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
After replying to Kevin's post on the TAS calculation using GPS it
dawned on me when you are using this method you should fly tracks
that are at 90 deg. angles not headings although the error under most
conditions would be small.
If you were to actually flying Kevin's example and you flew headings
rather than tracks the error would be on the order of 3 kts and that is
with a 30 kt wind. But if you insist on maximum accuracy fly the tracks
not headings.
This is all theoretical. Most people aren't going to do TAS checks in 30 kt
winds but truly accurate data is important to those of you trying to tweak
the maximum performance from your RV and the ones experimenting
with alternative power plants.
Charles FInk RV-6 N548CF
chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
mcomeaux wrote:
>
>
> Is there a spray gun to use to primer with. Little to
> cleanup--Paper cup Dispense? Any help? And how
> does one find Archives related to RV6AI've got one I'll sell you. $20.00 with
a supply of cups. It was
purchased from Avery's and used only once.
Ed Cole RV6A 24430
emcole(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | morristec(at)ICDC.COM |
| Subject: | Re: T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
You said,
I think there is some room for judgement here. Is the
RV>>particular
RV>>item primary or secondary? Is there a backup? Is there reason to
RV>>believe a particular make/model that is not TSO'd is as good or better
RV>>than a different one that does have the TSO approval? An example
RV>>would
RV>>be the less expensive King radios, which compare favorably against
RV>>some TSO'd radios from other manufacturers (especially older models).
RV>>
RV>>Randall Henderson, RV-6
Hello all,
The original question here was "instruments", not radios and other such
equipment. For me what came to mind is altimeters, and attitude
indicators. We all know that there is good non-TSO equipment and not so good
non-TSO equipment. Same goes for TSO. While TSO does not necessarily
determine the ongoing quality of a unit, it does establish a minimum
performance standard. For example a non-TSO altimiter has no accuracy
standards other than what the manufacturer decides to use. Therefore,
without test you can't reliably know whether your altimeter will give
you 20 ft. of accuracy throughout the useable temperature/altitude range, or
500'. The TSO unit does have an established accuracy standard which
would be adequate for IFR. Same goes with the gyros. These both are
"Critical" systems for IFR.
It is interesting to note that nowhere in the TSO process is reliability
addressed, other than by field experienced failure history. Only when
an accident occurs or excess malfunction reports are filed with the FAA
will they even notice reliability/ quality issues.
BTW, I completly agree about TSO radios, although once again the TSO
does establish minimum perfromance standards. For example
altitude/temp/ vibration, etc. Most of these specs are outside our
normal operating envelope anyhow, For instance we don't often see degredation
due to altitude because we don't go to 40K ft. Temp can be an issue for
instance. For you northerners -20 C is not unlikely. Most LCD's won't
operate below 0 C.
Once again though ongoing quality is not addressed.
With respect to 21.303 issues, like TSO, these don't apply to experimentals.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: True airspeed from VOR |
Except when you do this IFR, it is called "ground speed" :-)
(According to David H. Barry Schiff really did say, "True airspeed can be
measured by flying between two VOR stations".)
Hal Kempthorne halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. (SJC)
Debonair N6134V A zillion RV-6AQ parts in the "hangar" we call home.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
Hi,
There is a spray gun that uses paper cups that's available from a
lot of the tool suppliers. I use one myself. It seems to work well for
me, priming surfaces that will not show. I don't know how it works for
priming what will be exposed surfaces with a finish coat. I
believe it uses a maximum of 30 psi of air. You don't need much primer
for small parts. Some builders instead use a small hobby style airbrush
for priming their parts. Good luck!
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
H S Skeleton (on hold)
writes:
>
>Is there a spray gun to use to primer with. Little to
>cleanup--Paper cup Dispense? Any help? And how
>does one find Archives related to RV6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EFI Fuel Returns |
<< Do you have any numbers for fuel return rate with the system you are
planning to use? >>
It all depends on the injectors you choose.
As a general rule of thumb you want to choose injectors that can deliver .5
pph per hp per hour. In a 160 hp O-320 your engine will require injectors
that can deliver 80 pounds per hour. As a safety factor (to avoid fuel
starvation at full throttle) you want injectors that run at an 85% duty
cycle. So we take our 80 pph and divide by .85 to get 94 pph. That
represents about 16 GPH.
If your engine is burning 8 gph at cruise (with EFI and EI you should get 8
gph at 170 kts at 8000') the return will be 8 gph. At take off and climb the
return should only be 2 gph.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Aircraft root fairings |
<< Mark
Will sam have a booth or something at Sun-n Fun. I'm at the point
that if I'm going to put these on my RV-4 it's got to be now. I will
be at Sun-n-Fun for three day's and at Van's banquet. I would like to
see what they look like. >>
Hey-
Call Sam & ask for a brochure. I don't think he'll have a booth @ S-n-F.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
| Subject: | Airspeed Calculation - clarification Q |
Do I have this right?
For a correct calculation using the formula,
-For "A1", one must fly a course (vs. heading) and take the groundspeed
reading.
-"A2" must also be a course, and must be 90 degrees from "A1" (plus, or
minus - does it matter?).
-"A3" must be a course, 180 degrees from "A1".
This will then give True Airspeed, from which I can then calculate my
calibrated airspeed, and finally determine my indicated airspeed error?
TIA,
EB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCarthy <Jokker(at)cris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
unsubcribe
You guys are great but I'm just in the "look see" mode regarding a RV.
I'm looking at having some time next year when I retire to start my
project.
Bob McCarthy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
--=_ORCL_15905295_0_11919703131741340
I know this topic has appeared multiple times on the list, but I will bring it
up again...
I purchased the paper cup gun from Avery (actually called a "zip" gun I believe)
and made the
"baby-food jar" modification to it. All you do is drill a hole in the top of a
baby food jar
lid large enough for the zip gun pickup tube, then pop-rivet the lid to the cup
holder on the
gun. Then, just mix up your primer in baby food jars and screw them on to the
gun. For large
jobs, I just mix up 3 or 4 jars worth and line them like spare clips. No spills
and easy
clean-up. You can use various size baby food jars for the amount of primer you
need. If you
have any primer left over from a job, just screw a spare lid on the jar and stick
it in the
fridge. It will keep just fine for 2-3 weeks.
******************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation *
* Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center *
* Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700 *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002 *
******************************************************************************
--=_ORCL_15905295_0_11919703131741340
Date: 13 Mar 97 16:04:11
From:"juno.com!ab6a(at)matronics.com (ALLAN E POMEROY)"
Subject:Re: RV-List: Spray Gun?
Hi,
There is a spray gun that uses paper cups that's available from a
lot of the tool suppliers. I use one myself. It seems to work well for
me, priming surfaces that will not show. I don't know how it works for
priming what will be exposed surfaces with a finish coat. I
believe it uses a maximum of 30 psi of air. You don't need much primer
for small parts. Some builders instead use a small hobby style airbrush
for priming their parts. Good luck!
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
H S Skeleton (on hold)
writes:
>
>Is there a spray gun to use to primer with. Little to
>cleanup--Paper cup Dispense? Any help? And how
>does one find Archives related to RV6A
>
--=_ORCL_15905295_0_11919703131741340--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Calculation - clarification Q |
Eric Barnes asks:
"This will then give True Airspeed, from which I can then calculate my
calibrated airspeed, and finally determine my indicated airspeed error?"
Well, yes and no, I surmise. The procedure, accurately flown, gives you
a good estimate of your TAS, but depends on the assumption that the wind
direction and speed are constant. Thus, I suspect that such a procedure
would need to replicated several times to get an adequate sense of the
experimental error. In each replication, one would need to compare the
CAS (estimated from TAS, pressure altitude, and OAT) with the observed
IAS over a range of airspeeds, altitudes, and experimental replications.
It ain't easy, but it's a feasible approach for a patient man.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
Howdy, Boys:
FWIW, I worked out Kevin's example using a scientific calculator and the
formula in question programmed into an Excel spreadsheet and offer three
observations: (a) Joe Larson is correct except for the inaccuracies
implicit in the E-6B, (b) both Joe and Charles Fink are correct in
pointing out that what is needed by the formula is ground track, not
compass heading, and (c) the formula does indeed give the correct answer
of 170 knots when ground speeds are accurate observed and consistent
with the TAS being flown and ground tracks are used rather than
headings.
My calculations using Kevin's example follow.
1. Grd trk 135 deg. TAS 170 kts. Grd spd 167.332 Hdg 125 deg
2. Grd trk 045 deg. TAS 170 kts. Grd spd 140.000 Hdg 045 deg
3. Grd trk 315 deg. TAS 170 kts. Grd spd 167.332 Hdg 325 deg
Using these accurate data, the formula yields a TAS of exactly 170 kts.
I hope this is helpful.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 Floor skins |
Hi,
I have some questions regarding F639 & F640 Forward Floor Skins, Drawing
#37.
At the front of the skins is a 90 degree bend. Should this bend sit
right up against the spar or should there be a gap in there? If so, how
much?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
| Subject: | Airspeed Calculation - clarification Q |
EB wrote:
>>>>-For "A1", one must fly a course (vs. heading) and take the
groundspeed reading.
-"A2" must also be a course, and must be 90 degrees from "A1" (plus, or
minus - does it matter?).
-"A3" must be a course, 180 degrees from "A1".<<<<<
EB,
You have it right. Fly a course (track on the GPS) for A1. A2 must be a
course 90 deg. to A1 and it can be plus or minus, doesn't matter. A3
must be a course 180 deg. from A1.
The reason for flying courses rather than headings is the formula is
based on three speeds flown on vectors at 90 deg. angles to each
other. If your speeds are based on the ground speeds as computed by
the GPS. then you must use ground tracks at right angles to each other
to be accurate. If you fly headings the ground tracks will not be at right
angles due to wind drift and you will lose accuracy. In real life the error
will probably be very small.
Charles Fink RV-6 N548CF
chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | VAL ILS/marker beacon |
I just finished installation of a VAL ILS/marker beacon instrument,
VOR/LOC antenna, marker beacon antenna. At first the marker beacon did
not work well, it seemed to be very weak. I sent the unit back and they
re-calibrated it and sent me a new marker beacon antenna just to try.
I was just out shooting a few approaches and everything is fine now. The
outer marker comes in loud and strong and for 3-4 sec. at least. I'm very
happy with this product and the people at VAL were very cooperative when
things did't work 100%. I would recommend this unit to anyone planning to
equip there RV for IFR.
With the ILS/marker beacon, a VOR (King 125), and in panel II Morrow 360
GPS I can go out and practice to my hearts content. It don't get no
better!
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Horton" at Mar 12, 97 10:10:25 pm
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed using GPS |
<--snip-->
>
>I think, though, that you're *heading* 315/45/135, not *flying* these
>headings. That is, you're doing your calculations as if you point the
>nose towards 315, then see what the wind does. The formula doesn't work
>that way. It wants you to fly 315, which involves finding a correction
>angle that works, then noting the (stabalized) ground speed. This might
>be the difference in the calculations. The GPS will tell you what your
>ground track is, so you need to adjust your heading until your ground tracks
>are 90 degrees apart.
>
<--snip-->
Joe,
You hit the nail on the head. Whoever started the original thread said 3
headings 90 degress apart, and that is what I used. I checked the formula
using 3 tracks 90 degrees apart, and it works exactly. Zero error.
Thanks for the info.
Take care,
Kevin Horton
future RV-8 builder (lurking and gathering info, tools, etc)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <joe(at)flnet.com> |
Can anyone tell me the page number or torque values for the RV. Cant seem
to find them in manual. I have the pre punched RV6
Joe/wing
joe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << Mabye my brain isn't working well at the moment, but I can't think of
> any reason why a 'tee' couldn't be used to plump the return into both
> tanks. >>
>
> Your brain isn't working. If you take-off with full tanks and are drawing
> off the left tank, you will vent half of your return out of the right tank
> vent. If you want to return to both tanks you need a selector.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Sounds simple enough, but it really isn't. Who says the fuel will flow
'evenly' through both branches of the tee? (your answer -and it well
may, I'll get to that)
Pondering out loud here...
If one way presents more resistance (i.e. tank full, and the only way to
send more fuel that way is to force other fuel up and out of the vent
-remember, the vent rises well above tank level) and the other way is to
a tank only half full it seems that the fuel would choose to go to the
half-full tank. But apparently not all of it does. If you use an
electrical analogy with resistance then you get current flowing to both
points but more current to the one with less resistance (less fuel/head
pressure -gravity). This must be how it works in the real world -fuel
flows to both tanks, but more of it goes to the non-full tank. Not 50/50
-but you're still losing fuel so who cares? I just like to think these
things out...
Looks like I'm back to plumbing return to one tank and making sure
that's the one I burn out of first.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: True airspeed from VOR |
> True airspeed can be measured by flying between two VOR stations, as
> described
> by Barry Schiff in "Proficient Pilot II", p. 166. The essential trick is to
> set the OBS
> to 90 degrees from the intended course. When you pass the station, the
> needle moves rapidly from being pinned on one side to pinned on the other.
> This gives
> a precise instant where you can click the stopwatch. -- David C. Hamilton
And you account for wind by how???
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | RV-6 model aircraft |
At the newsstand today I saw an article that might be of interest to some
builders. The April issue of RC Modeler has an article along with a cover photo
of a RV-6 on floats. It includes plans and a bill of materials. It even includes
enclosed wingtip lights.
Stan Blanton
RV-6 fuselage
75472.372(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
Airspeed airsmeed SHUT UP AND POUND RIVETS. Fly'em if you got'em. 185mph
tas 8000' 2200rpm 24"mp 160hp rv-4 coming through boys! If you would Quit
worring about all this math and build , you could really find out how fast
it really goes. Of course if you have a really big hanger and want to see
how fast it goes now, you could get it going about 1or 2 kias before you
smash into the wall!! See you up there if your lucky!!
Tony Partain
N17PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Floor skins |
<< I have some questions regarding F639 & F640 Forward Floor Skins, Drawing
#37.
At the front of the skins is a 90 degree bend. Should this bend sit
right up against the spar or should there be a gap in there? If so, how
much? >>
Glenn-
The front surface of the floor skins should align with the front surface of
the spar bulkhead C channels that run up the sides of the fuselage and meet
the floor skins at the spar.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Ganged fuel selector. |
One of our builders was talking to me today about a 6-port fuel selector
valve he found. The two sections are:
3/8 left tank, 3/8 right tank, 3/8 to engine.
1/4 left tank, 1/4 right tank, 1/4 from engine.
This valve would select a tank for fuel and simultaneously select the same
tank for the return. Price is $285 plus S&H. More info available from:
Fuel Manager (360) 779-9373. or WWW.silverlink.net/innov or
bmash(at)silverlink.net.
Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
March 03, 1997 - March 13, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-co