RV-Archive.digest.vol-cp
March 13, 1997 - March 22, 1997
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel |
>
>Dave Donnelly wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> The plans for an RV 4 indicate the outer skins DO overlap the inner skins.
>> I noticed on a friend's RV 6 plans that the opposite was true.
>>
>> Dave D - -4 Fuselage on order
>
> I am looking at my RV-4 plans now and they show the INNER skins
>overlaping the OUTER skins on sheet 19.
> This isn't intended as a flame.
>
> Carroll Bird
Troopers, I wouldn't worry which skin overlaps which skin. Van has
depicted it both ways. He finally settled on one way and that is to have
the outer skin overlap the inner skin, that allows the water running down
the surface to not run between the skins, possibly causing corrosion.
Unfortunately it will take us the next ten years to root out all the
references in the manuals and the plans and get them corrected. Either way
works just fine. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack Gageby <aj752(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
A friend has an RV4 and RV6, both O-360s with carb. He has a single
fuel/vapor return line in both aircraft from a tee at the carb. The
return is to the left tank. The orifice size for the return is 0.030
inches. The return rate is 3.5 gallons per hour with the 0.030 orifice.
He has an on/off valve in the return line co-located with the fuel
selector. Thus he can use the return during hi temperature operation to
prevent vapor-lock and shut off the return in cool cruise conditions.
Mike Wills wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
> I'm interested for the same reason. I also plan on EFI. I'm
> planning/building tanks now, and plan on return lines to both tanks.
>
> Do you have any numbers for fuel return rate with the system you are
> planning to use? I dont have any quantifiable numbers, but my experience
>
> >
> >I plan on installing electronic fuel injection some time this year.
> >
> >Gary Corde
> >RV-6 N211GC - NJ
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Finley, Brent J(Z99817)" <BFINLEY(at)apsc.com> |
I saw a photo of the canadian RG RV and was wondering had anyone
considered a retractable RV6A? Seems like the gear would have to be
slightly longer to give the needed prop clearance.
I have been browsing the web looking at planes ever since I started
learning to fly and I am enamored with the RV6. Since I got my
license (March 3rd!) I have been dreaming of getting into one. Does
anyone know an owner in Phoenix who doesn't mind an enthusiastic
passenger?
Thanks,
Brent
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 model aircraft |
Stan Blanton wrote:
>
>
> At the newsstand today I saw an article that might be of interest to some
> builders. The April issue of RC Modeler has an article along with a cover photo
> of a RV-6 on floats. It includes plans and a bill of materials. It even includes
> enclosed wingtip lights.
Sadly, it's only a sport-scale model. The flaps became part of the
ailerons and the float dimensions were changed. Still, it's a cool
looking model. About time an RV joined the model Lancairs and Glasairs
on the circuit.
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fred New <fred(at)ics.ee> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
On Thu, 13 Mar 1997, Scott Spencer wrote:
>=20
> Looks like I'm back to plumbing return to one tank and making sure
> that's the one I burn out of first.
If you could set up some sort of tank vent monitor for this tank, that is,
an alarm for when fuel starts dumping out the vent, you might be able to
make this work. But after all the discussion on this topic, I'd be
inclined to plumb returns to both tanks going through the double fuel
selector.
--
Fred New IC Systems (372) 656-5477
Systems Administrator Mustam=E4e tee 12 fax (372) 656-5476
fred(at)ics.ee EE0006 Tallinn, Estonia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
<< Airspeed airsmeed SHUT UP AND POUND RIVETS. >>
Tony,
If we want to improve our breed, we need accurate performance data. When I
add EI to my engine I want to know that I went from X to Y. And when I add
EFI I want to be able to prove that the performance went from Y to Z.
Additionally, since our aircraft are custom built, the performance of each
aircraft gives us an indication as to the condition of our engines and/or
airframes.
Changing things like wheel pants, fairings and the like has an impact on
performance. We need to quantify these changes to make a decision if these
changes are worth the money/effort or not.
If nothing else, it's fun to say "mine is faster than yours"!
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
<< Looks like I'm back to plumbing return to one tank and making sure
that's the one I burn out of first. >>
You can't empty the tank with EFI. EFI can't tolerate air in the system and
I think that air can make a mech. fuel injection system cranky as well.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | RV-6 Floor skins |
Glenn,
Install the floor skins per plans, i.e. down aginst the F-604 bulkhead and
forward against the floor ribs. The location of the 90 degree bend is
irrelevant, but will end up about where GV says.
Les
RV-6AQB
Tacoma, WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 1997 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Floor skins
<< I have some questions regarding F639 & F640 Forward Floor Skins, Drawing
#37.
At the front of the skins is a 90 degree bend. Should this bend sit
right up against the spar or should there be a gap in there? If so, how
much? >>
Glenn-
The front surface of the floor skins should align with the front surface of
the spar bulkhead C channels that run up the sides of the fuselage and meet
the floor skins at the spar.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jorear(at)mrnet.com |
Subject: | RV-6 model aircraft |
RV>At the newsstand today I saw an article that might be of interest to some
RV>builders. The April issue of RC Modeler has an article along with a cover ph
RV>of a RV-6 on floats. It includes plans and a bill of materials. It even incl
RV>enclosed wingtip lights.
RV>Stan Blanton
RV>RV-6 fuselage
RV>75472.372(at)compuserve.com
To those that are interested:
I am in the process of developing a set of plans for a 1/3rd scale model
of an RV6. Power will be from a twin cylinder 4 cycle engine of 3.0 cu
in displacement. Wingspan will be 96 inches. So far, I have nearly
completed the fuselage. Construction will be almost identical to that
of the full size aircraft, even using the same design to the fuselage
jig.
This is all to keep me occupied until I start in on construction of the
real thing, hopefully in a couple of years. The model will definitely
be an aid to deciding on a color scheme!
Happy Building/flying
Jeff Orear
RV6 modeler/soon to be private pilot/ RV6 wanna builder
jorear(at)mrnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DCHamilton(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV rides in Phoenix, AZ |
As of mid-1995 the RV group in Phoenix, AZ was run by
Marvin Horn
20406 N. 142nd Ave.
Sun City, AZ, 85375.
They have had lunches from time to time at Deer Valley, Sedona and Rimrock.
--- David C. Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
Gary I am glad you can see the humor in all this madness. Mine IS faster
Ha!
Tony
----------
> From: aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: airspeed
> Date: Friday, March 14, 1997 10:19 AM
>
>
>
> << Airspeed airsmeed SHUT UP AND POUND RIVETS. >>
>
> Tony,
>
> If we want to improve our breed, we need accurate performance data. When
I
> add EI to my engine I want to know that I went from X to Y. And when I
add
> EFI I want to be able to prove that the performance went from Y to Z.
>
> Additionally, since our aircraft are custom built, the performance of
each
> aircraft gives us an indication as to the condition of our engines and/or
> airframes.
>
> Changing things like wheel pants, fairings and the like has an impact on
> performance. We need to quantify these changes to make a decision if
these
> changes are worth the money/effort or not.
>
> If nothing else, it's fun to say "mine is faster than yours"!
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Prado (Excell Corp.)" <v-jerryp(at)microsoft.com> |
Subject: | Wanted - RV6a Wing Kit |
I am looking for an RV6A wing kit in any stage of completion. Just
purchased completed tail.
Contact :
Jerry H. Prado
7913 North 9th street
Tacoma, WA
Home : 206-566-6147
jerryprado(at)wa.net
Voice Mail : 888-204-5330
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hi Listers,
I'm sure of two things. One, I wish I could build as fast as my plane will
someday fly. And, two, even if it's the slowest RV ever built, I know it
will be a heck-of-a-lot faster than the C-172 that I'm currently mushing
around in.
Joe Rex
RV-4, working, dangerously close to stall speed, on fuselage.
----------
> From: aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: airspeed
> Date: Friday, March 14, 1997 10:19 AM
>
>
>
> << Airspeed airsmeed SHUT UP AND POUND RIVETS. >>
>
> Tony,
>
> If we want to improve our breed, we need accurate performance data. When
I
> add EI to my engine I want to know that I went from X to Y. And when I
add
> EFI I want to be able to prove that the performance went from Y to Z.
>
> Additionally, since our aircraft are custom built, the performance of
each
> aircraft gives us an indication as to the condition of our engines and/or
> airframes.
>
> Changing things like wheel pants, fairings and the like has an impact on
> performance. We need to quantify these changes to make a decision if
these
> changes are worth the money/effort or not.
>
> If nothing else, it's fun to say "mine is faster than yours"!
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler) |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
> If one way presents more resistance (i.e. tank full, and the only way
> to send more fuel that way is to force other fuel up and out of the vent
> -remember, the vent rises well above tank level) and the other way is to
> a tank only half full it seems that the fuel would choose to go to
> the half-full tank. But apparently not all of it does. If you use
> an electrical analogy with resistance then you get current flowing to
> both points but more current to the one with less resistance (less
> fuel/head pressure -gravity). This must be how it works in the real
> world -fuel flows to both tanks, but more of it goes to the non-full
> tank. Not 50/50
> -but you're still losing fuel so who cares? I just like to think these
> things out...
One other problem with that. If the return line is plumbed so that it runs
into fuel at the tank end, and is connected to both tanks at once, unless you
put in check valves, you're going to have fuel flow from one tank to the
other.
Now the return fuel is at some sort of pressure, isn't it? Why does it have
to feed into the top of the tank?
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler) |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 model aircraft |
I thought there was an RC Model of a -4 or a -3 in the factory the one time I
was there.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Exhaust nut torque |
Oh, nuts.....this is a subject like pr#*%r: Torque!!
But:::I can't seem to find the torque for exhaust flange nuts on an 0-320.
And the answer is..........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << Looks like I'm back to plumbing return to one tank and making sure
> that's the one I burn out of first. >>
>
> You can't empty the tank with EFI. EFI can't tolerate air in the system and
> I think that air can make a mech. fuel injection system cranky as well.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
I'm not using fuel injection -I just want the vapor lock protection that
a vapor return offers, mostly because I plan on burning a mix of
autogas/avgas which will (obviously) have higher volatility. Also when I
say 'burn out of' that means 'draw from' in this case -I don't run tanks
dry as a rule. Thanks for your concern.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
Fred New wrote:
>
>
> On Thu, 13 Mar 1997, Scott Spencer wrote:
> >
> > Looks like I'm back to plumbing return to one tank and making sure
> > that's the one I burn out of first.
>
But after all the discussion on this topic, I'd be
> inclined to plumb returns to both tanks going through the double fuel
> selector.
>
> --
> Fred New
Yeah, that's obviously the best solution but I already own a fuel
selector however, and it's already mounted. I like keeping things simple
also. I thought that there must be a way to solve the problem simply
-guess not.
I am officially pronouncing this thread 'worn out'.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 model aircraft |
Jeff Orear wrote:
>I am in the process of developing a set of plans for a 1/3rd scale model
>of an RV6. Power will be from a twin cylinder 4 cycle engine of 3.0 cu
>in displacement.
Van would prefer you used a Lycoming engine.
Hal Kempthorne halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. (SJC)
Debonair N6134V A zillion RV-6AQ parts in the "hangar" we call home.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net |
Subject: | Gear Leg Fairings |
Does anyone have the phone # for Tracy Saylor (I think that is his name). I
need to talk to him about some gear leg fairings.
John Henley (j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Former 'Lister returns |
From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
Hi, 'Listers!
Tom Craig-Stearman is back on the air after a forced absence. It seems
my employer did not like us using the office computer for personal
business, so I finally set up my own system.
My project is an RV-4 nearing completion. It should be on the gear next
week. I just finished the canopy before loading the whole shebang into a
24' Ryder truck for the move from SW Texas to Oklahoma City.
Some of you may recall that I was planning to install an auto engine.
When the time came to finalize my engine choice, I had narrowed it down
to either a Subie-Lyc Legacy conversion or a Powersport 200. The
Subie-Lyc was not yet fully tested in an airplane, and Everett Hatch
himself talked me out of the Powersport for my intended purpose (both
aerobatics and IFR flying), so I ground my teeth and shelled out for a
new O-360. Everett Hatch is at work now installing Airflow Performance,
inverted oil, cold air induction, and working his magic on the cylinders
for me. I should have the engine before Sun 'n' Fun. Because of weight
and balance considerations in the RV-4 I am presently planning to use a
fixed-pitch prop, unless I can find a thirty-pound controllable prop.
Any suggestions?
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Exhaust nut torque |
>
>Oh, nuts.....this is a subject like pr#*%r: Torque!!
>
>But:::I can't seem to find the torque for exhaust flange nuts on an 0-320.
>And the answer is..........
>
>Michael
>
>
>
According to my Direct Drive Engine Overhaul Manual for Lycoming engines the
exhaust port studs are to be torqued to 40 in/pounds minimum. I've found
that they tend to loosen and fall off after a while. If you add a second
'jam' nut to the existing nut they won't loosen so readily.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 model aircraft |
I'm getting a real kick out of the discussion concerning the RV models.
I, too, am a model airplane builder and decided to build the RV-6A
because I had always wanted to build a full size airplane. I've found
that building the RV-6A is a lot like building a giant scale model. Yes,
the material is a lot different; but, the plans and such are similar. I'm
very glad I've had the model airplane experience to help me along.
The patience and skills needed for the project were already present. It
does take a bit more patience with the -6A, I must admit. Anyway, I'm
hoping to get my -6A done within the next year so I can use it in my
cross country tours of visiting model airplane clubs, and such. What a
combination!
Jim Sears, Associate Vice President
Academy of Model Aeronautics
RV-6A (working on fuselage bulkheads)
AA5A Cheetah N26276
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Exhaust nut torque |
From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
The documentation that came with my Vetterman exhaust system from Van's
says 100-125 inch pounds to torque the flange nuts.
(cutting the instrument holes in the panel)
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 model aircraft |
>
>Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>>I am in the process of developing a set of plans for a 1/3rd scale model
>>of an RV6. Power will be from a twin cylinder 4 cycle engine of 3.0 cu
>>in displacement.
>
>Van would prefer you used a Lycoming engine.
>
>
are you back riveting those 1-1.1 rivets in the .008 wing skins? (-:
let's see, one third scale, thats about a C-65, right? Pretty good climb
rate I would guess!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Exhaust nut torque |
>
>Oh, nuts.....this is a subject like pr#*%r: Torque!!
>
>But:::I can't seem to find the torque for exhaust flange nuts on an 0-320.
>And the answer is..........
>
>Michael
>
you need a Lycoming O/H manual.
Service Table of Limits
direct drive engines
special torque requirements
ref 906 exhaust port studs 5/16-18 40 in. lbs min.
(this is the only entry that says min., every other one states the torque as
one figure or a range, so......
good luck (-:
kevin 6a cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>Does anyone know if the RV-6 cowling is still available two sizes??
>Does anyone what their lengths were??
>
>Ernesto Sanchez
>E-Racer# 319
>es12043(at)utech.net
Ernest, We can order a fixed pitch cowl for you if that is your desire. It
will be about 1.75 inches longer than the constant speed cowl (c/s) which is
the standard. The c/s is about 36" from the firewall side to the spinner
flange on the front before you cut it to fit. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Fairings |
worldnet.att.net!j.henley(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have the phone # for Tracy Saylor (I think that is his name). I
> need to talk to him about some gear leg fairings.
>
> John Henley (j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net)
John,
My buddy who just bought a -4 put on Tracy's gear leg fairings last
weekend. They are one piece fiberglass, look great, and are easy to
install.
The cost was about $200 including shipping.
Installation:
You rivit an upside down "T" shaped piece of aluminum to the top of the
fairing which holds the fairing in place with a hose clamp to the gear
leg and epoxy the split in the rear with epoxy using cleco's and a long
piece of angle to hold everything straight. After the epoxy dries,
remove the clecos and angle and sand the joint smooth.
I don't have Tracy's number at hand, but it should be in the archives if
no one else answers.
I know you only asked for the phone number, but the extra info is for
you as well as the rest of the list.
Ed Cole
emcole(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Scale P38 Has Flown |
Noted test pilot Dave Morss was at the controls of the 55% Scale P-38
Lightning replica, designed and built by Walter Treadwell, when it slipped
the surly bonds on 03/11/97 at Livermore, CA. Details are confidential (so
please don't ask) until we get the story together for publication, but I
assure you, this is a fantastic achievement and the plane flies well. The
test program will continue as soon as Dave gets more time away from Dan
Denney's Thunder Mustang.
Now we can get back full time on the RV-6A project.
-Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Fairings |
<< Does anyone have the phone # for Tracy Saylor (I think that is his name).
>>
Check the RV Builders' Yeller Pages at hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
Richard Chandler wrote:
> One other problem with that. If the return line is plumbed so that it runs
> into fuel at the tank end, and is connected to both tanks at once, unless you
> put in check valves, you're going to have fuel flow from one tank to the
> other.
>
> Now the return fuel is at some sort of pressure, isn't it? Why does it have
> to feed into the top of the tank?
To prevent having to use check valves -only problem is that the only
'resistance it meets is the small amount offered by having to force the
fuel out the vent.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Exhaust nut torque |
Hey! We're talking NUTS here! I believe the proper torque is 25-30 inch
pounds. And to keep them from coming loose, *always* use a new star washer
and a flat washer under the nut.
Les
RV6AQB
Tacoma, WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Ammeter
Sent: Friday, March 14, 1997 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust nut torque
>
>Oh, nuts.....this is a subject like pr#*%r: Torque!!
>
>But:::I can't seem to find the torque for exhaust flange nuts on an 0-320.
>And the answer is..........
>
>Michael
>
>
>
According to my Direct Drive Engine Overhaul Manual for Lycoming engines the
exhaust port studs are to be torqued to 40 in/pounds minimum. I've found
that they tend to loosen and fall off after a while. If you add a second
'jam' nut to the existing nut they won't loosen so readily.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
>
>Airspeed airsmeed SHUT UP AND POUND RIVETS. Fly'em if you got'em. 185mph
>tas 8000' 2200rpm 24"mp 160hp rv-4 coming through boys! If you would Quit
>worring about all this math and build , you could really find out how fast
>it really goes. Of course if you have a really big hanger and want to see
>how fast it goes now, you could get it going about 1or 2 kias before you
>smash into the wall!! See you up there if your lucky!!
>
>Tony Partain
>N17PT
Well said Tony, but give these builders the benifit of finishing their
aircraft and finding out for themselve's, Take my word guys, you have NOT
started a project that WILL NOT show you what a " real performance aircraft
" can do.
I spent almost 3 years building, and it was worth every bit of it for the
results.
Guys who have spent big bucks maintaining and flying their Pipers & Cessans
are looking over their shoulders. " Hey that RV goes like stink "
Those who are planing a trip to Alaska, or wanting to check-out B. C.
Canada, get in touch. Have all the needy things a RV pilot needs. Glad to
have you stop by.
Ed Hobenshield
C- FXXG ( F----ing good }
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | New to rv-list & net |
Hi, I'm new to this, so I don't know if this will go where I want it. If not
I'll try again. I'm building a RV-6 , working on fuselage in Lebanon OR. I
look for an answer hoping I have lucked out.
Denny Harjehausen...retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
Subject: | Elevator Horn Clearance |
Need guidance please on trimming the HS rear spar flange to accomodate
elevator horn movement: 1) how far to cut toward spar web; 2) how wide,
i.e. to the AC centerline or leave small pieces of the flange attached
to the web inboard; 3) recommended technique for this surgery. (Can't
attach elevators 'til I do this.)
Thanks in advance.
Jim Hurd RV6A Empennage-almost-done-but-still-gunshy-about-cuttin'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tpbaxter(at)juno.com (Thomas P Baxter) |
Hi everyone :-). I am new to the group, but I have enjoyed the exchange
of information that I have read so far. I am building an RV-6, starting
the empennage. I am ready to prime the parts and I have not been able to
find much information on which primer to use. Based on what I've read, I
will use an airbrush (although the baby food jar option sounds
interesting) for now. I have heard and read of Veriprime being used.
There is a list of primers in the RV-ATOR book (16 years)and in the
plans, but no data on performance or drawbacks. I don't think this
requires as much discussion as the dual-tank-fuel-return issue, but I
would like to know what experience others have had in this area.
Thanks.
TPBAXTER@JUNO,COM
N530TB, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Horn Clearance |
>
>Need guidance please on trimming the HS rear spar flange to accomodate
>elevator horn movement: 1) how far to cut toward spar web; 2) how wide,
>i.e. to the AC centerline or leave small pieces of the flange attached
>to the web inboard; 3) recommended technique for this surgery. (Can't
>attach elevators 'til I do this.)
>
Jim,
What do you mean that you can't attach the elevators until this notch is
cut? I've from the pre "pre-punched" days but don't think much changed in
this area. What worked for me is as follows:
Mount the elevators.
Move the elevators down until they contact the spar flange.
File the area of contact (all the way to centerline) until the proper
deflection is achieved.
Remember to radius the inside corner of this notch. Leave the notch just
large enough so that aerodynamic flexing will no cause it to bind. Take your
time and think about what you are trying to accomplish and everything will
work out just fine.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele (N506RV - It will fly this Spring)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Horn Clearance |
----------
> From: James K. Hurd <riolink.com!hurd(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Elevator Horn Clearance
> Date: Saturday, March 15, 1997 10:46 AM
>
>
> >
> Thanks in advance.
Had same problem, called Van, they said it is had to trim back all of
flange that is in the way since it does not compromise the strength of the
part. Austin T.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Thomas P Baxter wrote:
>
>
> Hi everyone :-). I am new to the group, but I have enjoyed the exchange
> of information that I have read so far. I am building an RV-6, starting
> the empennage. I am ready to prime the parts and I have not been able to
> find much information on which primer to use. Based on what I've read, I
> will use an airbrush (although the baby food jar option sounds
> interesting) for now. I have heard and read of Veriprime being used.
> There is a list of primers in the RV-ATOR book (16 years)and in the
> plans, but no data on performance or drawbacks. I don't think this
> requires as much discussion as the dual-tank-fuel-return issue, but I
> would like to know what experience others have had in this area.
>
> Thanks.
>
> TPBAXTER@JUNO,COM
> N530TB, NJ
Hi Thomas
If you look in the rv-list archives you will find all you need to know
about primers. A while back there was a primer thread that went on and
on and on and on and... will you get the picture, so some of the old
timers on the list are very carefull about saying the word primer :-).
But having said that and and realizing there are new people on here that
have legitimate questions about what primer to use it is a fair
question.
I used Variprime and have been flying almost eight years and the
primer looks as good as it did the day I put it on. If you are going
to paint your airplane yourself use whatever primer that is compatable
with the paint you will be using, if you are going to have a shop paint
the exterior of your plane don't prime the exterior because they may
have
their own system of primer and paint that they like to use.
OK I have said the dreaded word *primer* and it wasn't that bad.:-)
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
I am looking at a mid-time IO360 A1B. Would appreciate any thoughts from
anyone with experience with this engine. This is not a A1B6 which I
understand has counterbalancing on the crank. I believe Steve Barnard and
maybe a couple of others have the A1B6 engine.
Thanks in advance
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns |
<332AB19D.4C6B(at)kiva.net>
From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
writes:
>
>
>Richard Chandler wrote:
>
>> One other problem with that. If the return line is plumbed so that
it runs into fuel at the tank end, <<
How about the notion of cross connecting the two tanks at the bottom
to cross feed and piping one line to the #1 tank ?
Larry Mac Donald
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Fairings |
<< Does anyone have the phone # for Tracy Saylor (I think that is his name).
I
need to talk to him about some gear leg fairings.
John Henley (j.henley(at)worldnet.att.net)
>>
Tracy Saylor's phone number is (805) 933-8225.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
>I don't think this requires as much discussion as the
>dual-tank-fuel-return issue, but I
would like to know what experience others have had in this area.
Tom:
You have a bunch of folks cowering. There are 10 zillion messages on
primers in the archives. The fuel return thread pales in comparison.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Conley" <John.Conley(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Speaking of Primers |
I just heard about some recent articles on using 'water-based' primers.
Can anyone tell me where I might find those articles?
Thanks in advance
John Conley
N744JC
RV6 #23621 (Empennage)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net> |
John Top wrote:
>
>
> >I don't think this requires as much discussion as the
> >dual-tank-fuel-return issue, but I
> would like to know what experience others have had in this area.
>
> Tom:
>
> You have a bunch of folks cowering. There are 10 zillion messages on
> primers in the archives. The fuel return thread pales in comparison.
>
> John Top
> Phone: (619) 549-3556
Hello again I hope I don't step on any toe's but the idea of mixing fuel
from one tank to the other and the extra attention that has to be paid
to fuel mantenence, not returning the fuel back only to the tank it
comes from has my hair standing on end.I thought there was a fuel
selector that does this the right way!!.Always thought it was nice to
have a tank to try incase of contamination that caused a problem(switch
tanks).This seem so cut and dry no disscusion.I also would rather see a
good primer-paint compatability chart regardless of how many threads in
the past have been written,not to be-little the importance of fuel
returns.It's not so easy to produce a plan on primer-paint compatability
by looking at the archives,and a plan for a new builder in this area
would shure speed things along for that person knowing that he's or
she's doing the right thing.I enjoy all the threads beginning const. to
finish!!!!!
David Price
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Thanks to all that responded. It didn't take all that long. Once a few
clarifications were made your efforts converged to a very useful formula
resulting in excellent precision. Its a keeper :-)
thanx, -Elon
ps. The nuggets are always at the bottom of the pan. It takes work to
get to them. This list is still a goldmine.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
Thomas P Baxter wrote:
>
>
> Hi everyone :-). I am new to the group, but I have enjoyed the exchange
> of information that I have read so far. I am building an RV-6, starting
> the empennage. I am ready to prime the parts and I have not been able to
> find much information on which primer to use. Based on what I've read, I
> will use an airbrush (although the baby food jar option sounds
> interesting) for now. I have heard and read of Veriprime being used.
> There is a list of primers in the RV-ATOR book (16 years)and in the
> plans, but no data on performance or drawbacks. I don't think this
> requires as much discussion as the dual-tank-fuel-return issue, but I
> would like to know what experience others have had in this area.
>
> Thanks.
>
> TPBAXTER@JUNO,COM
> N530TB, NJ
Tom:
The most important thing is to be sure that the primer is compatible
with the paint you are going to use. Stick with a major brand like
Dupont, PPG, etc. Look in the yellow pages for an auto paint store
that carries Dupont and order the Dupont Aircraft Refinishing manual.
PPG and the others may have a comparable publication.
Robert Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Re: Scale P38 Has Flown |
>
>Noted test pilot Dave Morss was at the controls of the 55% Scale P-38
>Lightning replica, designed and built by Walter Treadwell, when it slipped
>the surly bonds on 03/11/97 at Livermore, CA. Details are confidential (so
>please don't ask) until we get the story together for publication,
Friend of mine has photos of the plane and it looks JUST like a P-38!! Way
cool. Glad to hear it finally got to go flying.
Now: someone will be working on a scale B-17 with four VW engines and....oh,
never mind........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mauser(at)Claris.COM (Richard Chandler) |
Subject: | Chatter Warbirds (was: Scale P38 Has Flown) |
> Now: someone will be working on a scale B-17 with four VW engines
> and....oh, never mind........
I always liked the B-25 Mitchell for some reason. I don't know why. Perhaps
it was the version with the 8 .50 cals in the nose, plus 4 nacelles on the
side, and with the turrets joining in on the strafing run, it was the 1940's
version of the disintegrator beam.
And then they could drop bombs on you to add injury to insult.....
Of course, the model with the 75mm gun was a cool idea too.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Aircraft Spruce sell a epoxy primer that meets military and aerospace
requirements call AKZO #463-12-8. Another builder has been using it and I
got some off of him. It is hard as a rock when dry. I have used an epoxy
wash that Sherman Williams has, it is the same as Van's factory has been
using in the past. It is tough stuff, but I don't think it is tough as
AKZO. I suppose there many others out just as good.
I would like to hear some comments on gasolators on tail dragger. It would
seem to me that because the gasolator is not a low point in this
configuration that it just acts as just a filter. A filter located outside
of the engine compartment in a area that could be checked easily would work
fine and not be subjected to all that heat. What ya think?
Denny..fuselage RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Edmondson" <Tazman(at)lakemartin.net> |
"index"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
----------
> From: Denny Harjehausen <proaxis.com!retflygtiger(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Primer
> Date: Sunday, March 16, 1997 7:02 AM
>
> > I would like to hear some comments on gasolators on tail dragger. It
would
> seem to me that because the gasolator is not a low point in this
> configuration that it just acts as just a filter. A filter located
outside
> of the engine compartment in a area that could be checked easily would
work
> fine and not be subjected to all that heat. What ya think?
>
> Denny..fuselage RV-6
Check page 10 of Aug/96 issue of Van's newsletter. Good information on
gascolators. Austin Tinckler
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)netins.net> |
Subject: | RV-List:Warren Basler |
I heard a blurb on CNN and Confirmed on the AP Web page that Warren Basler
of Basler Flight services of Osh Kosh WI was killed yesterday, along with 3
others, when a DC-3 and a Bonanza collided South of Green Bay. Most of us
have bought fuel from Basler at Osh Kosh at one time or another. No details
of the mission were given.
Basler was a long time operator of DC-3's and was also involved in a turbine
conversion program.
Our thought are with their families.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
Quite some time ago this space included a great suggestion on how one could
construct a home-made trap for water in the line from an air compressor
which would guarantee that you don't get water in the gun when you want to
paint your project. It consisted of some length and elbows of PVC which
cool the air and provide a low point for water to settle in. It was simple
and cheap and sounded ingenious as a way for a simple homebuilder to
eliminate one of the problems that scare people off spray paint jobs. Does
anyone remember the instructions for the layout ?
Also, as an aside, I would like to encourage anyone who has cold
feet about painting their RV themselves to give it a shot and just buy good
stuff, (PREP WELL), and go to it. I have seen paint jobs by first timers
that looked great and stood up well. Just as well as some $2500 to $6000
jobs I have seen. I figured I did everything else on this a/c and I will do
this too ! I will admit however that I did paint one previous a/c with a
$60 gun my kids gave me for a birthday and which others pronounced only
good enough to shoot primer or to hammer the lid back on the can with, and
I just did it and I was proud of it. Killed a few bugs but looked great in
the sunlight. Remember to degrease, etch, alodine if you like, scrub with
scotch brite, prime with Super Coripon or some such, mask and paint. You
will like it.What the hell, you did everything else, why not. Austin
Tinckler, RV-6, Vancouver.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
Subject: | Speaking of Primers |
Deft makes a 2 part epoxy primer which is "water" soluble. It really
cuts much better with alcohol though. It is a fully fluid resistant mil
spec primer and is used by Boeing. I don't have a good source for it
though. Someone else on the list a while back was advertising some for
sale. I've been using it and it seems to work great. Hard to mix though.
-mike
> ----------
> From: John
> Conley[SMTP:worldnet.att.net!John.Conley(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Saturday, March 15, 1997 8:29 PM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Speaking of Primers
>
>
>
> I just heard about some recent articles on using 'water-based'
> primers.
> Can anyone tell me where I might find those articles?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> John Conley
> N744JC
> RV6 #23621 (Empennage)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re:Where to find |
<332AB19D.4C6B(at)kiva.net>
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com (Cecil T Hatfield) |
Some of the 3/16 bolts called out in the plans for the spar, after two
washers and a nut are on, the first thread doesn't quite show. I want to
know what is acceptable.
In the FAA DOT book:
Acceptable methods, Techniques and practices. Aircraft Inspection and
repair. Where can I find info on this? Or is there another book I can
find this?
Thanks, Cecil Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Do you know the answer to my question? |
<332AB19D.4C6B(at)kiva.net>
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com (Cecil T Hatfield) |
In the FAA DOT book:
Acceptable methods, Techniques and practices. Aircraft Inspection and
repair.
Section 248 paragraph ( i ), reads:
Cladding. Aluminum alloys which are susceptible to corrosion are
frequently clad with pure aluminum. Slight pits, scratches or other
defects through the cladding material will not result in corrosion of the
core, since the pure aluminum on the edges of the defect will be
perferentially corroded, protecting the core.
Question:
In the case of a scratch through the pure aluminum to the base alloy
metal.
Why would the edges of pure aluminum corrode before the alloy would?
Tis' a puzzelment to me.
Cecil hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kiwi(at)jetstream.net (Kiwi) |
I am sure that most of us have trouble with oval rivet holes when
countersinking. The reason for this is the speed of the bit is too high and
the 3 cutters on the countersink want to increase the radius of the hole
the faster you spin it. A remedy for this is to place the countersink stop
bit into a slow spinning drill such as a cordless battery drill. I spin the
bit at about 200RPM and push firmly. About 4-6 turns of the bit gives one
the correct countersink and no oval shaped rivet hole. Hope this helps
someone.
BTW. For those of you who are interested (or live close enough) the Salmon
Arm Flying Club (in BC Canada) has an Air Affair on June 15,97. Attendance
reaches about 4500 spectators every year and RVers are the most popular
attending of all the groups. Accomodation can be arranged for visiting
pilots and we provide a dinner for pilots (and Co-pilots) on Saturday
night. Vans usually attends plus those plastic guys usually show up. The
other interesting thing is that you can get to meet the designer and see
the RV6 on Amphibious floats. His name is Eustace Bowhay.
If you need further info contact me: Barry Tunzelmann
Ph(250)832-3198 eves.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Axcjjgreen(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-6A Wing Kit and Empennage for sale (regretfully) |
I have an RV-6A wing kit with Phlogiston spars that I have to sell due to my
wife's transfer overseas. (The Navy did it to us again) I also have a
completed Empennage with electric elevator trim. I am asking $4000 for both,
or will take $3500 for the wings and $700 for the Empennage. The wing kit is
still in the box as it was delivered from Vans. The workmanship on the
empennage probably won't win any awards but is very good. If anyone in the
Puget Sound area is interested, I could possibly deliver to your house and
additionally give you the jig material which I used to build the tail.. If
interested, please reply to my E-mail address .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | 6/6A Rear Bottom Skin Oilcanning |
After talking to dozens of 6/6A flyers at Oshkosh, I feel that I ought to
reinforce the bottom rear fuselage skin area to reduce oil-canning. The
Orndorf video calls out gluing insulation in the rear bottom skin to
overcome oil-caning but this seems crude.
I am considering running two additional J-channels from F612 to F606. They
would diverge symmetrically about the center line and be installed on the
bottom skin just like the side channels. I am going to mill out a simple
C-clamp operated die set to form the joggles.
Comments from flying 6/6A builders on the oil-canning and my proposed mod
would be appreciated.
Note that if you fly with good headsets you may unaware of the effect!
Thank you.
Dennis fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
.........
>I would like to hear some comments on gasolators on tail dragger. It would
>seem to me that because the gasolator is not a low point in this
>configuration that it just acts as just a filter. A filter located outside
>of the engine compartment in a area that could be checked easily would work
>fine and not be subjected to all that heat. What ya think?
>
>Denny..fuselage RV-6
As you stated, the gascolator is not in the low point. Years ago, that
may have been the intention in gravity flow systems, but with low wing
aircraft there is no way of having it in the low point, and there is no
need to have it in the low point. Think of the gascolator as a separator.
When gas combined with water or trash enters the gascolator, the heavier
items such as water and metal parts, grains of sand, etc, settle on the
bottom and the gas stays at the top of the bowl. The gascolator allows the
fluid at the top to continue the journey to the engine. There is no
requirement that it be at the lowest point in the system.
The concept of it being at the low point was probably so water in the fuel
would migrate to the gascolator, where if it froze, it would not impede
fuel flow. However, for this to work, the system would need to have a
continuous gradient so water would not be trapped in the fuel lines.
Obviously in a low wing with tanks in the wings, this is not possible, so
lets not think of it being at the low point in the system, just that it is
a reservoir where separation can take place. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6/6A Rear Bottom Skin Oilcanning |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> After talking to dozens of 6/6A flyers at Oshkosh, I feel that I ought to
> reinforce the bottom rear fuselage skin area to reduce oil-canning. The
> Orndorf video calls out gluing insulation in the rear bottom skin to
> overcome oil-caning but this seems crude.
> I am considering running two additional J-channels from F612 to F606. They
> would diverge symmetrically about the center line and be installed on the
> bottom skin just like the side channels. I am going to mill out a simple
> C-clamp operated die set to form the joggles.
> Comments from flying 6/6A builders on the oil-canning and my proposed mod
> would be appreciated.
> Note that if you fly with good headsets you may unaware of the effect!
> Thank you.
> Dennis fuselage in jig
Dennis that sounds like a good idea. Another builder & I were using 3/4
angle down the center from F606 for the next 2 bays. The canning is
noticable. Way way back I worked in a aircraft factory and they would ok
any canning. What ever that is worth.
Denny..RV-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
Subject: | Re:Where to find |
<332AB19D.4C6B(at)kiva.net> <19970316.093520.18775.1.cecilth(at)juno.com>
Try locating a copy of the publication 43.13a
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
>
>Quite some time ago this space included a great suggestion on how one could
>construct a home-made trap for water in the line from an air compressor
>which would guarantee that you don't get water in the gun when you want to
>paint your project. It consisted of some length and elbows of PVC which
>cool the air and provide a low point for water to settle in. It was simple
>and cheap and sounded ingenious as a way for a simple homebuilder to
>eliminate one of the problems that scare people off spray paint jobs. Does
>anyone remember the instructions for the layout ?
>
What I remember was that you went to the hardware store and bought about 25
to 30 feet of 3/8" copper tubing; be sure it is the bendable type. Bend the
tubing into a coil about 8" in diameter and place that coil in a plastic
bucket. You'll have to fabricate fittings on the ends of the coil so that
the bucket now has an 'in' fitting and an 'out' fitting. The 'out' fitting
should be at the bottom of the bucket but leave enough room for a water
separator to be installed on it. Fill the bucket with water and ice
sufficient to cover the coil; your neighbors will think you've gone into the
alcohol still business if they see this, BTW.
This device will lower the temperature of the air so it cannot hold as much
water. The water vapor will condense out and end up in the separator. Or
so the theory goes; I haven't built mine, yet.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Returns (was fuel injection) |
I missed the original post which brought this response from Gary. I
too
would be very interested in details about such a system. I would
think that
dual fuel selectors would be VERY prone to create a fuel
mismanagement
problem. Does anyone know of a dual path fuel selector, or of a way
to gang
2 standard selectors?
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Hi Mike: There is a fuel selector that switches both the feed and the
return line. It is made by Innovating technology inc. they have a web
site at http://www.silverlink.net/innov or e-mail at
bmash(at)silverlink.net
hope this helps, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A Wing Kit and Empennage for sale (regretfully) |
----------
> From: aol.com!Axcjjgreen(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Wing Kit and Empennage for sale (regretfully)
> Date: Sunday, March 16, 1997 10:10 AM
>
>
> I have an RV-6A wing kit with Phlogiston spars that I have to sell due to
my
> interested, please reply to my E-mail address .
I am interested in your offer and would like to hear more. Do you have the
complete set of plans ? I live in Vancouver BC . 604-596-0239. If you care
to contact me, I would appreciate it. Austin Tinckler. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Well said Bill, an excellent explination.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tpbaxter(at)juno.com (Thomas P Baxter) |
Thanks to all who responded to my first request for information from this
group. I am sure others were helped by it as well.
Time to search the archives.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
Subject: | Old 'Sport Avaition' mags |
I have lots of old copies of Sport Avaition from the '70s and '80s.
I need to make them go away. I live in the south San Francisco bay
area. If anybody wants them, thay are welcome to come and get them,
otherwise, they're going to the big air field in the sky.
Anybody that's willing to pay for shipping can have them as well.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Where to find |
From: | tpbaxter(at)juno.com (Thomas P Baxter) |
Van's accessory catalog has a book called Standard Aircraft Handbook, 5th
edition, which has this and a lot of other useful information. On page
103 is a chart that shows the minimum bolt protrusion through the nut for
a 3/16 bolt to be .062.
Hatfield) writes:
>Some of the 3/16 bolts called out in the plans for the spar, after two
>washers and a nut are on, the first thread doesn't quite show. I want
>to
>know what is acceptable.
>In the FAA DOT book: Acceptable methods, Techniques and practices.
>Aircraft Inspection and
>repair. Where can I find info on this? Or is there another book I can
>find this?
>Thanks, Cecil Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dennis Kane <dennis(at)robot.asimov.net> |
Subject: | Re: Old 'Sport Avaition' mags |
I collect - trade - sell aviation ephemera (and am building an RV-6),
would certainly pay shipping and wrapping costs. You can contact me he or
take a look at my web page www.straylight.net
Respectfully,
Dennis Kane
STRAYlight Aviation Ephemera
On Sun, 16 Mar 1997, Chris Ruble wrote:
>
> I have lots of old copies of Sport Avaition from the '70s and '80s.
> I need to make them go away. I live in the south San Francisco bay
> area. If anybody wants them, thay are welcome to come and get them,
> otherwise, they're going to the big air field in the sky.
>
> Anybody that's willing to pay for shipping can have them as well.
>
> Chris
> cruble(at)cisco.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List:Warren Basler |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
> I heard a blurb on CNN and Confirmed on the AP Web page that Warren Basler
> of Basler Flight services of Osh Kosh WI was killed yesterday, along with 3
> others, when a DC-3 and a Bonanza collided South of Green Bay. Most of us
> have bought fuel from Basler at Osh Kosh at one time or another. No details
> of the mission were given.
>
> Basler was a long time operator of DC-3's and was also involved in a turbine
> conversion program.
>
A front page article in the Milwaukee Journal today did not disclose any
names, but said "Witnesses told officials that the two planes were flying
together and that the smaller plane appeared to be maneuvering around the
DC-3 before the collision" and "Some witnesses said it looked as though
the smaller plane crashed into the side of the DC-3". Conditions were
bight and sunny. Two were on board the A-36 and two or more on the DC-3,
which crashed 45 mi. east of Oshkosh.
Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Subject: | Horizontal Stab. |
I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
do you squeeze all the way?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
Subject: | Low-Wing Tanks & Gascolators |
Dear Gang,
I've been flying too long not to know the answers to the following
questions.
But, I still don't know 'em, and I'm too old to be afraid to ask.
1- Are the tanks in a low-wing craft, such as an RV, too low to cross
feed. I've been flying nothing but Cessnas forever and I forgot what a
fuel tank selector is for. Is it too dangerous to run a line low enough
to let gravity do the job?
2- What does a gascolator really
do? I just read B.B.'s explanation about the
positioning of the gascolator, and I agree with all of what I
understand.
But I have a hard time visualizing how a gascolator does the job it's
supposed to do. During engine operation, there is a
fairly large volume of fuel flow accompanied by vibration.
I would think that most particles ,as well as water, would
remain suspended as the fuel goes through the
gascolator. How do these aliens get separated? How do the
sophisticated
outfuel injected engines in today's
automobiles do the job. We never drain
them. Most people never, never, never examine them. There is
probably more
water and particulates in auto fuel to start with, and we probably pump
five times as much fuel into our cars each year vs. our
planes.
The above questions are just that. I have no disagreements with the
systems
we use in our craft because I don't understand them enough. But I have
been following the recent thread about fuel return lines and B.B.'s
gascolator
post and thought it's time I educated myself. Thanks in advance.
Lou Willig
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Subject: | Primer/Gascolator |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> Aircraft Spruce sell a epoxy primer...
snip
> I would like to hear some comments on gasolators on tail dragger. It would
> seem to me that because the gasolator is not a low point in this
> configuration that it just acts as just a filter. A filter located outside
> of the engine compartment in a area that could be checked easily would work
> fine and not be subjected to all that heat. What ya think?
>
> Denny..fuselage RV-6
Well, first on the (yikes not again!) primer thread. I now have a few
years experience with water reduceable epoxy primer and will say briefly
that:
-at first I had serious doubts, but Bell Helicopter (I work for a
service center) sent the stuff and said it was now their factory primer.
We've shot gallons since then and the stuff is tough as nails. We shoot
everything from polyurethanes to acrylic enamels over it (all brands,
but mostly DuPont) with no problems whatsoever -and believe me, on a
rotor head you will know if you have an adhesion problem. Clean up is
wonderful -head to the sink and start the water... The stuff we use
meets the same spec I believe as the AKZO. I'm now a believer.
Gascolators... I am mounting mine directly off the four-port fuel
selector I have (in the area just ahead of the stick) in my -4. It
literally hangs from the selector on brass fittings and uses the
selector mounting (which is centered in the fuse). A line runs from it
to the floor where I have a modified (soldered a mounting flange on it)
curtis drain valve. It is at the low point in the system (as low as I
can get it anyway) and in turn feeds the elect. pump which is mounted
adjacent to it in the same compartment. Access is easy -just remove the
stick boot/alum cover. I did this because: (1) it is now at the low
point (previously stated) (2) I have no heat problem and the need for
blast tubes, etc. (3) I didn't have to figure out some sort of bracket
for it. (4) It is crash protected (5) There is less junk on the firewall
(6) It was easier and just plain made sense.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
Subject: | Wing Spar Flange Strips |
Save me a call to Vans...
I've checked the Archives and Justice Manual...and darn it, I know there
has to be a real simple answer: all my 6A spar flange strips are
1/4-1/2 inch shorter than what plans call for. Yes, I know the angle
cut has been made but are these measurements correct for the pre-drilled
spars?
Also, the upper strips are somewhat longer than the lower strips. And
that's because the lower attach point extends out from the fuselage more
than the wing dihedral, right?
My guess is that inasmuch as that the wing spars are pre-drilled with
the fuselage carry-thru, this is AS IT SHOULD BE. But I'm just kind of
curious, so somebody please enlighten me.
Jim Hurd RV6A in the dark right now...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
>
>I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
>on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
>do you squeeze all the way?
>
>
You flute the ribs because you want to straighten them. When they are
stamped they tend to end up with a slight curve. The flutes are intended to
straighten out the rib so you only want to flute sufficiently to straighten
the rib. You _could_ only flute every 5 or 6 inches and end up with a
'straight' rib but in reality it would be a series of curves and angles.
It's best to flute every mark but only flute enough to straighten the rib.
You don't want to squeeze all the way because then the rib would curve the
other direction.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Gasolator/filter ? |
I see how the gasolator helps in the foreign matter filtering, but I am
having trouble understanding how it separates water while the fuel is moving
at the rate I picture. Unless it works on a centrifugal force theory,
forcing the water to outside?
I guess what bothers me is if it filters only why have it under the cowling
in the heat which you have to in turn cool somehow. Wouldn't a filter that
could be located an another location where it could be check easily on the
preflight for dirt and check for water at the main tank drains (speaking of
a -6 here). I must have mis-communicated the importance of the gasolator
being at the low point.
I have spent most of my flying life in jets and they didn't seem to care
much what was ran through them. So not meaning to start a flap here, I just
need some help on the knowlege end of this to re-inventing the wheel. Thanks
in advance for any sincere answers and ideas.
Respectfully,
denny..RV-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Subject: | Re: Primer/Gascolator |
Dean & Scott Spencer wrote:
> Gascolators... I am mounting mine directly off the four-port fuel
> selector I have (in the area just ahead of the stick) in my -4.
> Scott
> N4ZW
This is an addendum to my own post. I realize that a gascolator does not
have to be at the low point in the system to act as a water trap. Bill
provided a very good explanation of that. I just liked the idea of being
able to drain at the low point of the system. Cessna, a couple of years
ago, issued a service bulletin (never mandated by the FAA) and kits to
add a drain to the system in the belly of many of their models. They (at
least from a liability standpoint) saw the benefit of being able to
drain off the lowest point in the line. I thought 'heck' why not just
put the gascolator there also? The biggest argument for this is the
(probably pretty small) chance of water freezing in the line -water that
never makes it to the gascolator, but just hangs at the low point. The
flow rate is not that great really -not always enough to push water over
the 'humps'. Ever watch a fluid flow at 8 gal/hr thru a 3/8" line?
It's similar to watching paint dry.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
mcomeaux,
It's usually necessary to put at least some bend in each fluting site. The
idea is to start with small flutes and observe the effect and then increase
the depth in the area of the curve to get the desired flatness.
Regards,
Joel Harding (RV8-8004)
ab320flyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
>
>I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
>on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
>do you squeeze all the way?
Dear ?,
I flute enough to get the rib to lie flat. You will learn after doing a
few where and how much to flute. You can flute just a little (light
squeeze)in a lot of places or flute more in fewer places. If you
over-flute, flatten the flute with your hand seamer.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
The purpose of marking the rib flanges is so that you know where the rivets
will go, and thus where you will not want to have a flute. After you mark
the flanges, simply lay the rib on a flat surface with the flanges pointing
up, it will usually have a twist in it. Hold one side of the twist flat
against the table, this will cause the other side to rise up off the table,
depending on how bad the twist is. Now go along with the fluting pliers, and
a little bit at a time, flute the part of the rib that is up off the table.
Go back and forth along that side until the rib lays perfectly flat. The key
here is to not form each flute all at once, rather, just a little at a time,
moving around the rib as necessary until it is straight, then stop. After you
do a couple of them you'll find it is easy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | immelmann(at)themall.net (Ed Holyoke) |
Subject: | Re: Primer/Gascolator |
>Well, first on the (yikes not again!) primer thread. I now have a few
>years experience with water reduceable epoxy primer and will say briefly
>that:
>-at first I had serious doubts, but Bell Helicopter (I work for a
>service center) sent the stuff and said it was now their factory primer.
>We've shot gallons since then and the stuff is tough as nails. We shoot
>everything from polyurethanes to acrylic enamels over it (all brands,
>but mostly DuPont) with no problems whatsoever -and believe me, on a
>rotor head you will know if you have an adhesion problem. Clean up is
>wonderful -head to the sink and start the water... The stuff we use
>meets the same spec I believe as the AKZO. I'm now a believer.
>Scott
>N4ZW
>
So Scott -- what primer is it that you are using?
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
Subject: | Re:Riverdale paint store |
Joe,
All your text consisted of was "index". Was that a coded message for me?
Ha! Could you try again? Thanks. Mal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
You wrote:
>
>I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
>on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
>do you squeeze all the way?
>
George Orndorff's videos give some pretty good tips on fluting.
I think the idea is to flute only enough to straigten the rib.
You should flute with the rib lying on a very flat surface and
make small flutes (1/32 inch or less). You can always come back
and make deeper ones. Of course, you can sort of reverse flute
and take some of the flute out, but it works much better to not
have to do that.
If you observe the effect of the bow on the rib as you flute,
you will learn which fluting locations affect the curvature and
will develop a technique. When you are fluting on one side, as
soon as the rib is flat, stop and go to the other side. Get it
flat and then check the first side.
Best regards and hope this helps,
Bill Costello
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Want an extra hour and a half of energy per day with Super Blue
Green products? Email for info or call 800-325-7544 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
Marks for fluting? Is this a pre-punched kit? Lay your ribs web side down
and flanges up on a flat surface, preferably with a light source behind
it. You will see that the ribs will be "bowed" upwards, towards the
center, away from the ends of them. You flute about half way between
each rivet hole. Be sure that the flute goes inward and just give the
fluting pliers a VERY LIGHT squeeze at each point. You can always go
back and just give them another squeeze as needed to make the rib lay
flat on the surface. DO NOT squeeze all the way with the pliers. This is
a gradual process and may have to be done more than once on each rib to
get them to lay flat. Fluting is a way of shrinking the flanges to make
the rib straight. Hope this helps.
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
H S Skeleton (on hold)
writes:
>
>I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
>on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
>do you squeeze all the way?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | cowling fitting ideas |
after a long weekend fitting the cowling on my 6A some notes for what it's
worth:
1. I found no advantage in fitting the top first as stated in the manual.
The bottom is significantly harder since gravity works against you and the
extra fore/aft length can't extend past the finish cut position as with the
upper.
2. after mounting the rear spinner plate to the engine flange (don't forget
the starter ring thickness) with some pipe nipple spacers and carriage
bolts, I drilled two small holes to create "studs" using common hrdw. These
initially pointed forward and fit in two holes in the lower cowling that
positioned it to the correct height (i.e. center lines on fiberglass line up
with the spinner plate as desired.) but didn't restrict forward/back
movement. Mount cowling AHEAD of the spinner so that extra material isn't
wrapped around outside of fuselage cabin area.
3. the cowling was then scribed the offset required to shift it to the
clearance desired BEHIND the spinner plate (1/4-3/8") and cut
4. the bolt studs were next mounted pointing rearward and now would hold the
front in place while detailed trimming fit the rear. Lots of duct tape needed!
5. finish cut lower cowl horizontally from spinner center elevation in front
to that 17 3/4" elev. up from floor. A very tight nylon string will give a
very straight line.
6. fit upper cowl to bottom. Extra length on aft end overlaps nicely on
canopy deck. Fit front inlets. Horizontal cut elevation should be also
near spinner center elev. but approach with several progressive cuts and
files. (may want spinner a bit high to compensate for future droop, tho' Tom
Green says his never never did(must be one of those straight & level types))
7. note that the radius of the fiberglass is greater than the radius of the
floor pan which it butts up to.
8. wonder how you will fix this. Additional air inlets perhaps? Another
whole weekend? )-:
I have been thinking of making my cowling separation hinge pins pull from
the cockpit as seen in a plane up in Battleground, WA. Does this idea
actually work well? (no, they're not emergency cowl releases!)
kevin N3773 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
>
>I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
>on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
>do you squeeze all the way?
>
I found the fastest way was to flute every mark, a bit deeper as the radius
of the edge decreases, and then lay the rib on the table. It will be a bit
over corrected. Then with some hand seamers start flattening the flutes
back to the original unfluted state enough to make the rib lay flat. Might
as well take a 5/16" block and scribe a flange center line on it too while
it's setting there. Red markers show better. You get really good at it
just about when you run out of ribs (-: kevin N3773
cowling(...rrrrr....)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Mosur" <jmosur(at)interlog.com> |
I am building a rv-6 using aMazda rotary, engine is installed. I am down to
the short strokes and now I have to start thinking about a prop. Is there
anyone out there with experience on a Ivo Magnum. I have talked to Ivo but
have got two different answers, one said use a two blade other
said a three blade. HELP. Jim Mosur, Brampton , Ontario.
jmour(at)interlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6/6A Rear Bottom Skin Oilcanning |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> After talking to dozens of 6/6A flyers at Oshkosh, I feel that I ought to
> reinforce the bottom rear fuselage skin area to reduce oil-canning. The
> Orndorf video calls out gluing insulation in the rear bottom skin to
> overcome oil-caning but this seems crude.
> I am considering running two additional J-channels from F612 to F606. They
> would diverge symmetrically about the center line and be installed on the
> bottom skin just like the side channels. I am going to mill out a simple
> C-clamp operated die set to form the joggles.
> Comments from flying 6/6A builders on the oil-canning and my proposed mod
> would be appreciated.
> Note that if you fly with good headsets you may unaware of the effect!
> Thank you.
> Dennis fuselage in jig
Speaking of oil canning could someone please explain to me exactly
what they are experiencing. In all the hrs. I have flown my RV-6(over
800)
and all the RV's I have been in and flown I have never heard or
experienced oil canning. I guess I am just trying to figure out how
the term oil canning is used in regard to a RV.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
Thanks John. I appreciate the help.
----------
> From: John Ammeter <seanet.com!ammeterj(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Horizontal Stab.
> Date: Sunday, March 16, 1997 7:39 PM
>
>
> >
> >I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
> >on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
> >do you squeeze all the way?
> >
> >
> You flute the ribs because you want to straighten them. When they are
> stamped they tend to end up with a slight curve. The flutes are intended
to
> straighten out the rib so you only want to flute sufficiently to
straighten
> the rib. You _could_ only flute every 5 or 6 inches and end up with a
> 'straight' rib but in reality it would be a series of curves and angles.
> It's best to flute every mark but only flute enough to straighten the
rib.
> You don't want to squeeze all the way because then the rib would curve
the
> other direction.
>
> John Ammeter
> ammeterj(at)seanet.com
> 3233 NE 95th St
> Seattle WA, 98115 USA
> RV-6 N16JA
> First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Ivo prop-rv-6 |
I am building a rv-6 using aMazda rotary, engine is installed. I am down to
the short strokes and now I have to start thinking about a prop. Is there
anyone out there with experience on a Ivo Magnum. I have talked to Ivo but
have got two different answers, one said use a two blade other
said a three blade. HELP. Jim Mosur, Brampton , Ontario.
jmour(at)interlog.com >>
Hi All,
I've been flying the Ivoprop Magnum prop for the last three years, which
included the prototype prop that I believe only Ivo and I flew.
Ivo typically recommends a two bladed prop for a ground adjustable
installation, and a three bladed prop for the electric flight adjustable
installation.
The prop hub is identical for a two blade, or a three blade, installation.
Two inserts are added in the hub for the two blade installation, which is
standard.
If you have specific questions about the prop, or have more information about
your engine installation (horsepower, RPM, etc), please feel free to contact
me direct.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Ivo prop-rv-6 |
I am building a rv-6 using aMazda rotary, engine is installed. I am down to
the short strokes and now I have to start thinking about a prop. Is there
anyone out there with experience on a Ivo Magnum. I have talked to Ivo but
have got two different answers, one said use a two blade other
said a three blade. HELP. Jim Mosur, Brampton , Ontario.
jmour(at)interlog.com >>
Hello Jim,
I've flown about five combinations of two and three blade Magnum blades on
the electric flight adjustable hub from Ivoprop.
I don't work for Ivoprop. However, I am a distributor for Ivoprop.
But mainly, I have been doing (unpaid) product flight testing for Ivo for the
past three years in an effort to get his prop ready for FAA certification.
I would be help you in any way I can. Even if it is just to clarify the
correct prop for you to order from Ivoprop. I can usually contact Ivo
anytime during the day, or the evening.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Stephen Jackson Soule <ssoule(at)vbimail.champlain.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. Fluting |
Hello,
You lay the rib web side down on a flat table top and look to see where
it is not flat. rock it from side to side and end to end. Keep the
flanges pointing up toward you. Then flute only as many marks and
squeeze only as hard as you need to make that rib lie flat. You may not
need to flute every mark and some of you flutes will be very shallow
indeed.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
(left wing done, right wing in the jig, fiting tank skin, still two #&*#
feet of snow on the ground and no degrees (zero) outside).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
Subject: | Re: Wing Spar Flange Strips |
> I've checked the Archives and Justice Manual...and darn it, I know there
> has to be a real simple answer: all my 6A spar flange strips are
> 1/4-1/2 inch shorter than what plans call for. Yes, I know the angle
> cut has been made but are these measurements correct for the pre-drilled
> spars?
>
> Also, the upper strips are somewhat longer than the lower strips. And
> that's because the lower attach point extends out from the fuselage more
> than the wing dihedral, right?
>
> My guess is that inasmuch as that the wing spars are pre-drilled with
> the fuselage carry-thru, this is AS IT SHOULD BE. But I'm just kind of
> curious, so somebody please enlighten me.
>
> Jim Hurd RV6A in the dark right now...
Jim --
The upper strips should be shorter than the lower strips due entirely
to wing dihedral. Perhaps you have confused yourself as to which are
uppers, which are lowers? The manual is confusing in this regard -- it
talks about the 1 dot vs. 2 dots, but the explanation is such that it's
easy to swap what they mean. Note that the strips can NOT be put back
on the spar in the wrong places -- they have a different number of holes
near the inboard edge. (Gotta give up the dihedral amount by the time
it exits the fuselage.) So I would recommend you take the two longest
ones, match them back to the spar, and see if your comments above are still
accurate.
Assuming you have a relatively recent wing kit, your flanges are already
pre-drilled to your spar. Thus, the last hole will land where it is
supposed to, and you should be fine.
If yours isn't pre-drilled, call Van's.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
I have an opportunity to purchases a 1991 king kit. Most skins have =
visible corrosion. I have no problem in building the older, less =
prepared kit. Does anyone have an oppinion as to what this kit is worth? =
Thanks
Jerry Prado, completed tail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings. I'm
going to remove my gascolator but I still want to filter my fuel.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
Subject: | Re: Old 'Sport Avaition' mags |
Sorry, they have been claimed.
Chris
>
> I collect - trade - sell aviation ephemera (and am building an RV-6),
> would certainly pay shipping and wrapping costs. You can contact me he or
> take a look at my web page www.straylight.net
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Dennis Kane
> STRAYlight Aviation Ephemera
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Yablon" <brian(at)lanart.com> |
Re: Airline water traps...
> Quite some time ago this space included a great suggestion on how one could
> construct a home-made trap for water in the line from an air compressor
> ...
> It consisted of some length and elbows of PVC which
I don't mean this to sound preachy, but...
My Campbell-Hausfeld owner's manual warns to NEVER use PVC components
in compressed air supply lines! I have a mechanic friend who would
attest to the wisdom of the manual: He tried to save a buck by
plumbing his shop with PVC air lines, and was seriously injured when
one of the lines fractured and blew sharp PVC shards around his shop.
Even though some folks might (still) be getting away with this
practice, it is unsafe!
I built an airline dryer out of an old drywall bucket filled with a
coil of copper tubing. You fill the bucket with ice water and a few
of those blue ice cooler packs. The output of the copper coil feeds
a conventional airline water trap. Works great, especially in the
humid summer!
-Brian Yablon brian(at)lanart.com
Framingham, MA
RV6A #24571
Dressing wing spar components...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Yablon Position: Hardware Engineer
LANart Corporation Internet: byablon(at)lanart.com
145 Rosemary Street, Suite D1 Ma-bell: (617) 444-1994 x206
Needham, MA 02194 FAX: (617) 444-3692
LANart: Difference by Design
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
>
>I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
>on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
>do you squeeze all the way?
Flute on every mark to distribute the adjustment. No, you don't squeeze
all the way. Squeeze every mark lightly then check rib straightness. If
you need some more adjustment, squeeze every mark a little more. If you
went too far you might try flattening the flutes a little. On my recent
tail kit the ribs needed only light fluting. A couple didn't need any.
Larry Pardue
Pacer N8025D
RV-6 N441LP Rudder
Carlsbad, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)oz.kis.net> |
Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab. |
I see there were a lot of answers to this question, but I didn't see anyone
mention bending the flange perpendicular (or to whatever angle your trying
to get so the skin lays flat) to the flange as you work. This will save you
from having to go back and re-flute again once you get the skin to fit
smoothly.
Gene Gottschalk
>
>Thanks John. I appreciate the help.
>
>----------
>> From: John Ammeter <seanet.com!ammeterj(at)matronics.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Horizontal Stab.
>> Date: Sunday, March 16, 1997 7:39 PM
>>
>>
>> >
>> >I find the directions vague on fluting ribs. Do you flute
>> >on every mark as per plan? I'm using fluting pliers
>> >do you squeeze all the way?
>> >
>> >
>> You flute the ribs because you want to straighten them. When they are
>> stamped they tend to end up with a slight curve. The flutes are intended
>to
>> straighten out the rib so you only want to flute sufficiently to
>straighten
>> the rib. You _could_ only flute every 5 or 6 inches and end up with a
>> 'straight' rib but in reality it would be a series of curves and angles.
>> It's best to flute every mark but only flute enough to straighten the
>rib.
>> You don't want to squeeze all the way because then the rib would curve
>the
>> other direction.
>>
>> John Ammeter
>> ammeterj(at)seanet.com
>> 3233 NE 95th St
>> Seattle WA, 98115 USA
>> RV-6 N16JA
>> First flight August 1990
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
Subject: | Re: Ivo prop-rv-6 |
I'm also interested in hearing more about the Ivo Prop. I wanted a three
bladed composite prop for its smoothness. I have a Buick motor 200-210hp,
belted reduction going to be used on the RV-6. What is their highest rated
RPM?? Price? Warranty??
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
----------
> From: aol.com!LesDrag(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; jmour(at)interlog.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Ivo prop-rv-6
> Date: Sunday, March 16, 1997 10:55 PM
>
>
>
>
> I am building a rv-6 using aMazda rotary, engine is installed. I am down
to
> the short strokes and now I have to start thinking about a prop. Is
there
> anyone out there with experience on a Ivo Magnum. I have talked to Ivo
but
> have got two different answers, one said use a two blade other
> said a three blade. HELP. Jim Mosur, Brampton , Ontario.
> jmour(at)interlog.com >>
>
> Hello Jim,
>
> I've flown about five combinations of two and three blade Magnum blades
on
> the electric flight adjustable hub from Ivoprop.
>
> I don't work for Ivoprop. However, I am a distributor for Ivoprop.
>
> But mainly, I have been doing (unpaid) product flight testing for Ivo for
the
> past three years in an effort to get his prop ready for FAA
certification.
>
> I would be help you in any way I can. Even if it is just to clarify the
> correct prop for you to order from Ivoprop. I can usually contact Ivo
> anytime during the day, or the evening.
>
> Jim Ayers
> LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
Gary,
Jeg's automotive catolague has a nice assortment of filters hose and
fittings. They have a nice inline 40 micron metal filter with AN type
fittings on each end. PN# 799-5013. Have them send you a catolague toll
free number is 1-800-345-4545 you will all find many usefull things in there.
This filter is a metal mesh type filter,can be taken appart and cleaned and
wont collect water.
Ryan
RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
<9106B0327B3ACF11ACEF00805FD47A0B025B15FE@RED-67-MSG.dns.microsoft.com>
From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
Subject: | Speaking of Primers |
>
>Deft makes a 2 part epoxy primer which is "water" soluble. It really
>cuts much better with alcohol though. It is a fully fluid resistant mil
>spec primer and is used by Boeing. I don't have a good source for it
>though. Someone else on the list a while back was advertising some for
>sale. I've been using it and it seems to work great. Hard to mix though.
This is the primer used on the GlaStar. Good stuff. Stoddard Hamilton sells
it by the gallon, but I don't know if they will sell it to other then GS
builders. Danny White, a Glastar builder who provides several prefabbed
components and services for GS builders sells it in both quart and gallon
lots. e-mail - duba(at)gate.net
John Top #5372
(619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gasolator/filter ? |
Denny,
I think the gascolator gets a bad rap. Ive been running a gascolator on my 4
for 3 years with no problems. Ocasionally when I take it appart to clean the
screen I find small amounts of sediment on the bottom. I have no sheilding
around my gascolator and am running an Ellison which is supposedly highly
suseptable to vapor lock. The only time ive had any indication of vapor lock
is after heat soaking on the ground for awhile. Once the lines are cleared
with the boost pump I can turn off the pump and the engine will run all day.
I like having the gascolator mainly as a water trap or as an indicator that I
have been running water through my system.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
Subject: | I'm Back and apologies |
This note is to apologies to the list for any problems caused by the
recent cock-ups caused by my ISP. I presume I was kicked of majordomo
because of lots of returned messages from the list and have just had my
email restored after some serious fights with my provider.
If anyone had either sent me a message directly or responded on the
list to one of my posts in the last 2-3 weeks, then I probably didn't
get it....sorry if it seemed like I was ignoring you.
Ken Hitchmough
RV6A Flying
ken.hitchmough(at)magic.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | LYC 0-320 C/S Props |
I plan to use my O-320-D3G (160hp) in my Piper Cherokee for my RV6A. I
want to install a Hartzell C/S prop but it requires 7/16s flange bolts. My
existing bolts are 3/8s. Does anyone know if my 3/8 flange bolts can be
replaced with 7/16s?. Are there any potential problems if you can replace
them? If I can't, then I guess I'll have to study using fixed pitch prop
options. I need to figured this issue out soon as I need to order my
Finish Kit this week. Thanks in advance for any help.
Ron Caldwell
RV6A - N655RV Reserved
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.utah
801-968-2964
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
Gary Corde asked:
Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings. I'm
going to remove my gascolator but I still want to filter my fuel.
------------------------
I bought two fuel filters from Airflow Performance (the same folks who
make aftermarket fuel injection systems, (864) 576-4512, FAX (864)
576-0201). They are billet aluminum, about 1-5/8" in diameter, about 5"
long, with AN 816-6-6D fitting at both ends. They use a stainless filter
rated at 150 microns, and list for $93.00 each. Not cheap, but a good
quality product. I'm not flying yet, so I can't report on their use. Sue
Rodin here in Albuquerque has them in her RV-4, also with Airflow's fuel
injector, used for Sportsman acro. These filters can be opened up to
allow you to clean the stainless filters periodically/as required. Hope
this helps.
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Primer/Gascolator |
From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
Scott,
Your idea of the gascolator on the fuel valve sounds great. Would you
elaborate please on what a "curtis drain valve" is?
I also plumbed my gascolator in that bay but mounted on the rib.
-> Gascolators... I am mounting mine directly off the four-port fuel
-> selector I have (in the area just ahead of the stick) in my -4. It
-> literally hangs from the selector on brass fittings and uses the
-> selector mounting (which is centered in the fuse). A line runs from
-> it to the floor where I have a modified (soldered a mounting flange
-> on it) curtis drain valve. It is at the low point in the system (as
-> low as I
Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto ron.taborek(at)flight642.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings. I'm
> going to remove my gascolator but I still want to filter my fuel.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
You might try Summit Racing -an automotive hop-up/racing outfit. They
have a selection of cleanable machined from alum billet inline filters.
They are available with AN flare. I don't have any personal experience
with these (yet) -I've just noticed them in the catalog. Summit also
carries Aeroquip stuff. Don't have the catalog with me or I'd give an
address/#.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard TREANOR <treanor(at)ci.sunnyvale.ca.us> |
Subject: | Thanks & Congrats! |
Hello RV-Listers-
I've been eaves-dropping for a couple of months now. Purchased
empennage kit in December...waiting for tools and workshop completion.
Thanks to Russell Sly of Spanish Fork Utah for his generosity in giving
me a ride (even got in a little acro) in his sweet little RV-6A on Saturday.
I enjoyed myself immensely...came out smiling ear to ear! Handles like a
fighter...fast, nimble yet stable and a joy to fly.
As a former Navy Intruder pilot I've really had no interest in general
aviation (that I could afford) since leaving the service, and haven't piloted
and aircraft for over 15 years. However, my interest was rekindled
when reading about the performance available through home-built
aircraft. After a few years of investigation I chose the RV-6.
So...Congratulations to all you RV builders and you lucky RV pilots and
Van's Aircraft.
Rich Treanor
Sunnyvale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Speaking of Primers |
>>Deft makes a 2 part epoxy primer which is "water" soluble. It really
>This is the primer used on the GlaStar. Good stuff. Stoddard Hamilton sells
>it by the gallon, but I don't know if they will sell it to other then GS
>builders. Danny White, a Glastar builder who provides several prefabbed
>components and services for GS builders sells it in both quart and gallon
>lots. e-mail - duba(at)gate.net
>
>John Top #5372
>(619) 549-3556
RVers,
DEFT is tough stuff. Much more so than Vari prime and a little more so
than S-W wash primer. It's a pain to mix because the base component is
very, very thick. It's mixed two parts base to 1 part catlyst and then
reduced 150-175% with water. The gun cleans up with water fairly easily
but you have to clean the mixing equipment fast or it's a bear to get off.
Even acetone has a tough time if the DEFT primer is left on mixing cups, etc.
The other downside to this primer is that it takes a long time to dry.
With Variprime or S-W, by the time you get down the line of a lot of parts,
the first of the line is dry enough to flip over. Not so with the DEFT. I
imagine drying time would be even longer in humid climates. Also, the cost
is pretty high. DEFT is very resistant to Acetone, unlike Vari prime which
is instantly disolved.
DEFT has a web page at: http://www.deftfinishes.com/
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
This is my first attempt at xmitting, so please bear with me!
My dumb ?s r: 1. Has anyone attempted a tapered wing configuration on an
RV?
2. Would round-head rivets significantly increase
drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
Check out the "new" Seneca on pg. 67 of FLYING mag. Apr. 97
Hope this reaches someone!!
Greg Hughes--QFA1(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
Subject: | Re: LYC 0-320 C/S Props |
You can replace the 3/8 prop bushings with 7/16 bushings.
This has been discussed on the list before.
The bushings are pressed (force fit) into the crank shaft flange.
They can be pressed out (put a socket behind it and maybe some strong
C clamp. I simply warmed mine up some with a tourch and tapped them
out with a hammer. Support the back of the crank if you can. It has
a lot of mass so it should not hurt it.
I did this to simply replace some with the same thread size as the
threads were stripped or pulled.
I think there is even a Lyc Service Instruction or bulletin on this
for converting to 7/16 for CS prop.
Check the parts manual for the proper PN. There is normally 5 of one size
and one (the index) is a different size. For CS prop it may be different
as I have seen different indexes (sometimes two) on CS props.
Herman
>
> I plan to use my O-320-D3G (160hp) in my Piper Cherokee for my RV6A. I
> want to install a Hartzell C/S prop but it requires 7/16s flange bolts. My
> existing bolts are 3/8s. Does anyone know if my 3/8 flange bolts can be
> replaced with 7/16s?. Are there any potential problems if you can replace
> them? If I can't, then I guess I'll have to study using fixed pitch prop
> options. I need to figured this issue out soon as I need to order my
> Finish Kit this week. Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Ron Caldwell
> RV6A - N655RV Reserved
> rlcaldwell@utah-inter.utah
> 801-968-2964
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
> A front page article in the Milwaukee Journal today did not disclose any
> names, but said "Witnesses told officials that the two planes were flying
> together and that the smaller plane appeared to be maneuvering around the
> DC-3 before the collision" and "Some witnesses said it looked as though
> the smaller plane crashed into the side of the DC-3". Conditions were
> bight and sunny. Two were on board the A-36 and two or more on the DC-3,
> which crashed 45 mi. east of Oshkosh.
The local TV news last night said they were doing a photo shoot of the
DC-3, which had just had the turbo conversion. All four killed were
Basler employees.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
<< Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings. I'm
going to remove my gascolator but I still want to filter my fuel. >>
Gary-
Wicks has P/N 230106 for around $30 that has 37 degree male ports for
standard
-6 (3/8") fittings. It is a sintered bronze element and looks to be a
quality unit.
Kindest Regards,
Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
I am ready to start the fitting of the rear top fuselage skin, F-675.
The instructions mention two method, backdrilling or tracing the
position of the bulkheard and stringers on the skin and then drilling.
It would seem that the second method is just asking for trouble. Am
suggestions or comments on which method to use?
Thanks for the help,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: LYC 0-320 C/S Props |
>
>I plan to use my O-320-D3G (160hp) in my Piper Cherokee for my RV6A. I
>want to install a Hartzell C/S prop but it requires 7/16s flange bolts. My
>existing bolts are 3/8s. Does anyone know if my 3/8 flange bolts can be
>replaced with 7/16s?.
No problem. Just order the 7/16" 'nuts' that are in the prop flange. You
can spend about $32.00 each from Lycoming or $16.00 from a salvage place.
It's easy to press off the old 'nuts' and replace them with the new 7/16"
ones. You may have to file or grind one of them shorter but no big deal. I
was planning to do all this to my E2A (which also came from a Cherokee) but
then found that the previous owner had replaced the crank with one that
wasn't equipped with the cross-over tube inside the front of the crank. :>((
Are there any potential problems if you can replace
>them? If I can't, then I guess I'll have to study using fixed pitch prop
>options. I need to figured this issue out soon as I need to order my
>Finish Kit this week. Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>Ron Caldwell
>RV6A - N655RV Reserved
>rlcaldwell@utah-inter.utah
>801-968-2964
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
>>I am ready to start the fitting of the rear top fuselage skin, F-675.
>>The instructions mention two method, backdrilling or tracing the
>>position of the bulkheard and stringers on the skin and then drilling.
>...
>>Glenn Gordon
>
Hey Glenn -
I used the second method (tracing the bulkhead and stringers). Of
course, I had the skin on and off about three times tracing it to make
sure everything was correct, things weren't moving, etc. After that I
figured out all the rivet spacing and drilled them on the workbench,
then belted it back on, rechecked everything a fifth and sixth time, and
then started drilling into the bulkhead and strings starting at the top
middle and working my way out. It worked fine. I backdrilled all the
holes along the horizontal edges of course.
------------------------------------------
Mitchell Faatz San Jose, CA
RV-6AQME N727MF (reserved)
Working on left wing: rigging aileron
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KennyCobb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re Palm Bay, Fl or Melbourne Fl ( chatter ) |
Anyone on the list from Palm Bay, Fl or Melbourne Fl Please send me
your E-mail address I would like some local info.
Ken Crabtree
kennycobb(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: LYC 0-320 C/S Props |
Thanks to both Herman Dierks and John Ammeter for the info on changing out
the 3/8s flange bolts with 7/16s. I was really happy to know that I can go
ahead with my plans to install a Hartzell C/S prop. I live here in the
Rocky Mountains and the extra climb capibility will come in handy. I would
appreciate hearing from anyone who has a 160hp C/S prop. It would be
interesting to see what kind of performance your getting. I suspect its
not as good as a 180hp C/S but I would imagine that at least climb rates
are better than a fixed pitch prop. Thanks for the help.
Ron Caldwell
RV6A - N655RV
Skinning Fuselage
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
----------
> From: John Ammeter <seanet.com!ammeterj(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: LYC 0-320 C/S Props
> Date: Monday, March 17, 1997 9:13 PM
>
>
<rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net>
> >
> >I plan to use my O-320-D3G (160hp) in my Piper Cherokee for my RV6A. I
> >want to install a Hartzell C/S prop but it requires 7/16s flange bolts.
My
> >existing bolts are 3/8s. Does anyone know if my 3/8 flange bolts can be
> >replaced with 7/16s?.
>
>
> No problem. Just order the 7/16" 'nuts' that are in the prop flange.
You
> can spend about $32.00 each from Lycoming or $16.00 from a salvage place.
> It's easy to press off the old 'nuts' and replace them with the new 7/16"
> ones. You may have to file or grind one of them shorter but no big deal.
I
> was planning to do all this to my E2A (which also came from a Cherokee)
but
> then found that the previous owner had replaced the crank with one that
> wasn't equipped with the cross-over tube inside the front of the crank.
:>((
>
>
>
> Are there any potential problems if you can replace
> >them? If I can't, then I guess I'll have to study using fixed pitch
prop
> >options. I need to figured this issue out soon as I need to order my
> >Finish Kit this week. Thanks in advance for any help.
> >
> >Ron Caldwell
> >RV6A - N655RV Reserved
> >rlcaldwell@utah-inter.utah
> >801-968-2964
> >
> >
> >
> John Ammeter
> ammeterj(at)seanet.com
> 3233 NE 95th St
> Seattle WA, 98115 USA
> RV-6 N16JA
> First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Buick Motor was (Ivo prop-rv-6) |
Ernesto Sanchez wrote:
I'm also interested in hearing more about the Ivo Prop. I wanted a three
bladed composite prop for its smoothness. I have a Buick motor 200-210hp,
belted reduction going to be used on the RV-6. What is their highest
rated RPM?? Price? Warranty??
---------------------------------------
Ernesto:
What kind of Buick is it? V-6 or 8, iron or aluminum? The late Steve
Witman was flying an inverted, direct drive!, aluminum, Olds V-8 in his
tail wind. He published a white paper on his development and instalation.
Some of his mods were quite interesting. I see Aircraft Spruce still
sells Steve's Tailwind plans. You might contact them for more
information.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
Dean Spencer wrote:
Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings.
-----------
You might try Summit Racing. . . They have a selection of cleanable
machined from alum billet inline filters. They are available with AN
flare. Summit also carries Aeroquip stuff.
Scott.
---------------------------
Some numbers for Summit Racing Equipment are:
Order line, 24hr/day, 7 days/week - 330/630-3030
Retail Store - 330/630-0250
Customer Service - 330/630-0230
Espanol - 330/630-1626
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: LYC 0-320 C/S Props |
Ron Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> Thanks to both Herman Dierks and John Ammeter for the info on changing out
> the 3/8s flange bolts with 7/16s. I was really happy to know that I can go
> ahead with my plans to install a Hartzell C/S prop. I live here in the
> Rocky Mountains and the extra climb capibility will come in handy. I would
> appreciate hearing from anyone who has a 160hp C/S prop. It would be
> interesting to see what kind of performance your getting. I suspect its
> not as good as a 180hp C/S but I would imagine that at least climb rates
> are better than a fixed pitch prop. Thanks for the help.
>
> Ron Caldwell
> RV6A - N655RV
> Skinning Fuselage
> rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
>
> ----------
Ron
My hanger partner has a 160 hp C/S in his -6 and it flies every bit as
good as my 180 hp fixed pitch wood prop in my -6 and in some instances
it is even better, climb rate is better, his fuel economy is better
at say 3000 ft and above, at lower altitudes I have it with the extra
horsepower he has to run at a higher power setting to fly at the same
speed as me. He is not on the list but I am sure he would be happy to
give you specifics if you want to email him at
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
My dumb ?s r: 1. Has anyone attempted a tapered wing configuration on
an RV?
Greg, David Fried in Toronto is in the final stages of a taperwing 6.
It should be flying early next year. I think he wrote something in the
archives a year or so ago. The wings look GREAT and the whole plan view
should be really pretty compared to the Hershey bar wing. As to
performance, he calculates (he's an aerodynamicist) that it should be
aboutthe same, as he made them a little longer.
I don't have his email address, but if you search the archives you
should find him.
Dave...you listening? Hows about an update?
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
My dumb ?s r: 1. Has anyone attempted a tapered wing configuration on
an RV?
Greg, David Fried in Toronto is in the final stages of a taperwing 6.
It should be flying early next year. I think he wrote something in the
archives a year or so ago. The wings look GREAT and the whole plan view
should be really pretty compared to the Hershey bar wing. As to
performance, he calculates (he's an aerodynamicist) that it should be
aboutthe same, as he made them a little longer.
I don't have his email address, but if you search the archives you
should find him.
Dave...you listening? Hows about an update?
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Re Palm Bay, Fl or Melbourne Fl ( chatter ) |
From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Ken,
I'll be based at Sabastian Airport for the week of April 5-6 for the
Sun 'N Fun Flyin. (I commute from my parent's place.) If your in the
area, amybe we could get together some afternoon......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
> Anyone on the list from Palm Bay, Fl or Melbourne Fl Please send me
>your E-mail address I would like some local info.
>
> Ken Crabtree
> kennycobb(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<332E394A.7DF6(at)ix.netcom.com>
From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com (Bruce D Stobbe) |
writes:
>My hanger partner has a 160 hp C/S in his -6 and it flies every bit as
>good as my 180 hp fixed pitch wood prop in my -6 and in some instances
>it is even better
>From the stupid-question-of-the-day bin:
I would prefer to go the 180 HP/fixed-pitch prop route but am somewhat
scared by my lack of knowledge of proper care and feeding of wood props.
In other words, I know next to nothing about them compared with knowing
slightly more than nothing about metal props. Is a fixed-pitch metal
prop available for an RV-6 with 180 HP? What is the problem with using
the same prop as, say, a Cherokee 180 (diameter too large)? What about
concerns with operating a wood prop in precip? In general, what are the
disadvantages to using a wood prop?
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
> 2. Would round-head rivets significantly increase
> drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
Dimpling is not a significant portion of the time spent on this airplane.
A couple of guys working together can dimple all the wing skins in a
couple of evenings. One guy can run along with the Avery squeezer and
dimple the skeleton in real short order. You're going to save a few
hours and have all those ugly roundies sitting up in the airstream?
And you can't begin to guess what all those rivets are going to do to
the aircraft performance. Just think: all those little bits of turbulence-
producing rivets all over your airplane. Wonder what happens to the stall
speed. How about Vne -- think maybe flutter might happen sooner?
Granted, the RV doesn't rely on laminar airflow like some of the hot
plastic planes do. But you don't want to compound the issue.
Not worth it.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
Subject: | Re: LYC 0-320 C/S Props |
Ron my RV-4 with an O320 D1A and Hartzell CS prop will climb out @ 2300
fpm on a standard day with gross weight of 1400 lbs This is with an
indicated airspeed of 85 mph. Cruise performance on a standard day at 6500
ft with 2200 rpm and 24" mp results a tas of 188 mph .
----------
> From: Ron Caldwell <utah-inter.net!rlcaldwell(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: LYC 0-320 C/S Props
> Date: Monday, March 17, 1997 11:32 PM
>
>
> Thanks to both Herman Dierks and John Ammeter for the info on changing
out
> the 3/8s flange bolts with 7/16s. I was really happy to know that I can
go
> ahead with my plans to install a Hartzell C/S prop. I live here in the
> Rocky Mountains and the extra climb capibility will come in handy. I
would
> appreciate hearing from anyone who has a 160hp C/S prop. It would be
> interesting to see what kind of performance your getting. I suspect its
> not as good as a 180hp C/S but I would imagine that at least climb rates
> are better than a fixed pitch prop. Thanks for the help.
>
> Ron Caldwell
> RV6A - N655RV
> Skinning Fuselage
> rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
>
>
> ----------
> > From: John Ammeter <seanet.com!ammeterj(at)matronics.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: LYC 0-320 C/S Props
> > Date: Monday, March 17, 1997 9:13 PM
> >
> >
> <rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net>
> > >
> > >I plan to use my O-320-D3G (160hp) in my Piper Cherokee for my RV6A.
I
> > >want to install a Hartzell C/S prop but it requires 7/16s flange
bolts.
> My
> > >existing bolts are 3/8s. Does anyone know if my 3/8 flange bolts can
be
> > >replaced with 7/16s?.
> >
> >
> > No problem. Just order the 7/16" 'nuts' that are in the prop flange.
> You
> > can spend about $32.00 each from Lycoming or $16.00 from a salvage
place.
> > It's easy to press off the old 'nuts' and replace them with the new
7/16"
> > ones. You may have to file or grind one of them shorter but no big
deal.
> I
> > was planning to do all this to my E2A (which also came from a Cherokee)
> but
> > then found that the previous owner had replaced the crank with one that
> > wasn't equipped with the cross-over tube inside the front of the crank.
> :>((
> >
> >
> >
> > Are there any potential problems if you can replace
> > >them? If I can't, then I guess I'll have to study using fixed pitch
> prop
> > >options. I need to figured this issue out soon as I need to order my
> > >Finish Kit this week. Thanks in advance for any help.
> > >
> > >Ron Caldwell
> > >RV6A - N655RV Reserved
> > >rlcaldwell@utah-inter.utah
> > >801-968-2964
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > John Ammeter
> > ammeterj(at)seanet.com
> > 3233 NE 95th St
> > Seattle WA, 98115 USA
> > RV-6 N16JA
> > First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Top Skins |
>
>Hi,
>
>I am ready to start the fitting of the rear top fuselage skin, F-675.
>The instructions mention two method, backdrilling or tracing the
>position of the bulkheard and stringers on the skin and then drilling.
>
>It would seem that the second method is just asking for trouble. Am
>suggestions or comments on which method to use?
>
>Thanks for the help,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>I did the trace method..drilling the skins and then drilling to skeleton. I
had the skeleton walk with the drill in a few place..all towards the web. A
friend marked and drill his skeleton the back drilled the skins and got a
perfect job.
Denny...RV-6 fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Phillips Greg <phillig(at)ntsb.gov> |
Subject: | Orndorff RV-8 videos |
Is there any word on expected date for availability of Orndorff RV-8 wing
etc. videos?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
Joe Larson wrote:
> > Would round-head rivets significantly increase
> > drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
>
> You're going to save a few hours and have all those ugly roundies
> sitting up in the airstream?
Booo---
I'm currently flying a YAK-52 and love everyone of those round
head rivets. Now there's an aircraft that's really built!!
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Greg,
Welcome to the list. You will find that dimpling/c'sinking rivets does not
add an appreciable amount of time to construction. On the other hand I find
that driving countersunk rivets is a little easier than round heads and of
course the finished product sure looks a lot nicer.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>This is my first attempt at xmitting, so please bear with me!
>My dumb ?s r: 1. Has anyone attempted a tapered wing configuration on an
>RV?
> 2. Would round-head rivets significantly increase
>drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
>
>Check out the "new" Seneca on pg. 67 of FLYING mag. Apr. 97
>
>Hope this reaches someone!!
>
>Greg Hughes--QFA1(at)AOL.COM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
Subject: | High Speed Taxi Testing |
As promised a while back here are my experiences and recommendations on =
high speed taxi testing of the RV-6. This is an excerpt from a article I =
wrote for the local EAA Chapter 179. It is long so hit the delete key now =
if you are not interested.
Groundloop=20
Charles Fink RV-6
There are those that have and those that are going to.=20
I have heard that statement applied to numerous things. In my case insert =
ground loop in the blank. Except in my case it was not a complete ground =
loop but severe enough loss of directional control to run off the runway =
at about a 45 deg. angle, ding the right wing tip and bend the right gear =
leg. Lets go back to the beginning.
At the time I began taxi tests I had 9 hours of taildragger time 5 of that =
was taken about 18 months earlier and the other 4 within a few weeks of =
taxi tests. Although my instructor signed me off for solo in the Super Cub =
I was not completely comfortable landing it. I thought several hours of =
taxing the -6 would bring up my ability and confidence level.
After the first 200 feet of taxiing the 6 I could tell it was much easier =
to control than the Cub. I thought it was going to be a cinch. I spent a =
little over 2 hours over several days in slow speed taxi testing and it =
responded very well. I definitely had much more control over the 6 than =
the Cub (I also had 2 more hours in the Cub and felt more confident in =
it). Then came the time for the high speed testing.
I had been doing the slow speed work at 1,100 RPM and below. The airspeed =
had barely come off the peg but now it was time to push the envelope. On =
the next run I advanced the throttle to 1,300 RPM. Everything went very =
well. Estimated speed 25 to 30 MPH and in full control. End of the runway =
turn around, throttle to 1,400. Still good, airspeed registered 35+ MPH =
still in control. End of the runway turn and 1,500 about mid way things =
got a little squirrelly so backed off on the power straightened out and =
rolled to the end of the runway just fine. Three more runs at 15 to 1,600 =
RPM, airspeed indicating 36 to 43 MPH but not in full directional control. =
I was backing off on the throttle before the runs were complete to =
reestablish 100% control. I put the plane up and pondered what was going =
on. Final analysis I thought I needed more practice.
The following Saturday I got the plane out, warmed it up and taxied out to =
the unused runway for more testing/practice. Seven runs later I was still =
at the 1,600 RPM stage and none too confident. I decided on a couple of =
more runs for the day was all I could take. I was scheduled for another =
hour in the Cub for Sunday. I figured I would get some advice form Hal =
Bergdahl my tail dragger instructor.=20
Same drill, throttle 1,600 begin the roll going straight at first, then I =
needed little taps on the rudder, to maintain heading. Near mid way it =
began drifting left, I tapped right rudder it swerve right then back to =
the left, tapped right rudder again, nose swerved right but the plane was =
to left of the center line and the nose began to swerve left again with =
more authority so I stepped on the right rudder. At that point I was way =
behind the plane, the nose moved right quicker than planed, heavy left =
rudder inputs caused large movements left. I was loosing it so I yank the =
power off (BIG MISTAKE). The tail moved right with a lot of momentum and =
the plane headed for left side of runway at acute angle. I applied full =
right rudder and tail began to slow but it was still moving opposite the =
applied rudder. I stepped hard on the right brake just before the plane =
began to depart the runway. I then applied both brakes in order to stop =
the plane as quickly as possible. Just as the plane was coming to a halt =
about 50 feet off the runway the nose began to go down. All I could think =
about at the time was *DON*T GO OVER* which I repeated several times to =
myself. The plane stopped nose down but not on its back. I climbed out, =
set the plane back on its tail and surveyed the damage. It didn*t look too =
bad, the spinner was broken but the prop was hardly scratched. I didn*t =
recall but the engine must have been stopped or turning so slow that the =
first contact with the dirt stopped it. The wooden prop was undamaged. The =
right wing tip had a ding on the leading edge but easily repairable. At =
first glance the gear looked OK but after close inspection with a straight =
edge back at the hangar the right gear was found to be slightly bent.
What went wrong? Several things; 1 I was forcing the tail to stay on the =
runway thinking I had more control in that configuration. WRONG at 30 mph =
and above the RV is more stable with the tail up. In this attitude the CG =
is almost over the main gear axles and the aerodynamic forces are =
sufficient to overcome the frictional forces of the tires. By forcing the =
tail wheel down I was inducing an inherently unstable condition. 2 =
Although I was nearing flying speed I was nowhere near full power. The =
prop thrust pulling forward at full power adds a stabilizing force even =
though torque and P factor must be counteracted. 3 I rapidly reduced power =
so I lost the stabilizing force of the prop thrust and changed the =
dynamics of P factor and torque. Thus I went from an unstable condition to =
a VERY unstable condition.
What do I recommend?=20
Don*t do high speed taxi test. The RV is a well proven design a first off =
the board plane may need more ground testing but not the RV. One taxi run =
at a speed of 25 to 30 mph will give you all the information you need. At =
those speeds if you have a rigging problem it will be obvious.=20
Never make rapid power changes. This is obvious in WWII high HP aircraft =
but the same holds true for a 150 HP RV.
After the one moderate speed taxi go to the end of the runway, smoothly =
advance the throttle to full power and take off. I was well beyond the =
lift off point in my taxi tests before I began to loose control so if I =
had taken off rather than attempting the high speed tests the excursion =
would have never occurred.
Lift the tail as soon as possible. This does several things, as the tail =
rises the CG moves closer to the main gear, a more stable position. Also =
with the tail up the rudder is in cleaner air and therefore more effective =
and visibility of the runway is greatly improved allowing the pilot to =
detect the nose drifting off center sooner allowing smaller corrections. =
By my keeping the tail wheel on the ground for more control the tail wheel =
and rudder were fighting each other for control.
If you are not proficient AND current let someone else perform the first =
flight. After the runway departure I was very leery about my ability to =
control the RV and not wanting to bend it again I had Hal Bergdahl, my =
taildragger instructor, make the first flight. After a 45 minute flight he =
pronounced it a fine airplane that I would have no trouble flying (Hal had =
been instructing me in the Super Cub and was well aquatinted with my =
piloting abilities). He gave me his recommended pattern speeds and the =
indicated stall speed with a few other tips. He was right. I made the =
second flight of my RV without incident and in full control on takeoff and =
landing. I now have 94 hours on it with some takeoffs and landings on =
narrow strips and some in heavy cross winds. Since my first flight I have =
not encountered a marginal control condition although I have made =
countless go arounds due to bouncing on landing.
Conclusion IMHO high speed taxiing is unnecessary and unproductive in the =
RV, DON*T DO IT=21
Charles Fink RV-6 N548CF
chfink=40envc.sandia.gov
Albuquerque, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
Dean Spencer wrote:
>
>
> aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings. I'm
> > going to remove my gascolator but I still want to filter my fuel.
> >
> > Gary Corde
> > RV-6 N211GC - NJ
> You might try Summit Racing -an automotive hop-up/racing outfit. They
> have a selection of cleanable machined from alum billet inline filters.
> They are available with AN flare. I don't have any personal experience
> with these (yet) -I've just noticed them in the catalog. Summit also
> carries Aeroquip stuff. Don't have the catalog with me or I'd give an
> address/#.
>
> Scott
> N4ZWSummimt Racing
P.O. Box 909
Akron, Ohio 44309-0909
1-330-630-3030
1-330-630-5333 FAX
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | vortex generators |
Hi,
Wandering around the airport I keep seeing vortex generators attached to various
parts of a wide variety of airplanes.
Anybody done any investigation on the placement and efficiency of these bug
slicers?
And I'm unclear as to just what a vortex generator does. I thought smooth
airflow was the goal; I've seen a couple of installations where, with a dozen
v.g.'s, the odd numbered ones are aligned at 11 o'clock and the even ones are at
1 o'clock.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Top Skins |
From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>I am ready to start the fitting of the rear top fuselage skin, F-675.
>The instructions mention two method, backdrilling or tracing the
>position of the bulkheard and stringers on the skin and then drilling.
>
>It would seem that the second method is just asking for trouble. Am
>suggestions or comments on which method to use?
Hi Glenn. I think backdrilling is by far the easier method. Not only do
you know exactly where you are on the bulkhead flanges, but the skin
supports the flanges so they don't bend out of position while drilling.
You can also see if there is any interference with other items inside the
fuselage BEFORE you make the hole.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>1.Has anyone attempted a tapered wing configuration on an RV?
>2. Would round-head rivets significantly increase
>drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
>
>Check out the "new" Seneca on pg. 67 of FLYING mag. Apr. 97
Hi Greg. Van's tries some tapered "bat" wing tips awhile back and
apparently didn't like them too much. I think some builder once tried
tapering the wings, but I don't know how that turned out.
The flush rivets remove quite a bit of parasitic drag. I remember
reading about a test that was done with a warbird (a Spitfire?) Where
someone with too much time on their hands glued half of a dried pea onto
each external flush rivet to simulate a round rivet and tested
before/after cruise speeds. It amounted to something like 22kts if
memory serves.
The new Seneca... Let's see; max T/O weight = 4750, empty weight of the
test aircraft = 3562, that leaves 1188 pound useful. Subtract full fuel
at 732 and you have 456 pounds of payload. That's 2 people and weekend
baggage. This is a 5-6 seat airplane?! This is almost identical to the
payload in an RV! Of course, I didn't have the privilege of paying half
a million dollars for my airplane...
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
Subject: | chatter re: DUMB ?s |
> 2. Would round-head rivets significantly
increase
>drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
My memorie is a little vague on the subject but I do recall an article
about an experiment performed on a Spitfire after WW2 where some boffin
wanted to see the effects of universal rivets as oppososed to c'sunk.
It seems that they glued THOUSANDS of split peas to every rivet
location on the Spit and flew it. The effect was quite dramatic.
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
Subject: | Thanks & Congrats! |
>>>>As a former Navy Intruder pilot I've really had no interest in general
aviation (that I could afford) since leaving the service, and haven't
piloted
and aircraft for over 15 years. <<<<
>>> After a few years of investigation I chose the RV-6.<<<
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
And it has that side by side seating, just like a REAL military aircraft.
:-)
Eric Henson (former ANGLICO) wings in the jig.
Dana Point, Ca
ehenson(at)cldwll.attmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
Subject: | chatter re: DUMB ?s |
> 2. Would round-head rivets significantly
increase
>drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
My memorie is a little vague on the subject but I do recall an article
about an experiment performed on a Spitfire after WW2 where some boffin
wanted to see the effects of universal rivets as oppososed to c'sunk.
It seems that they glued THOUSANDS of split peas to every rivet
location on the Spit and flew it. The effect was quite dramatic.
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
On Mar 18, 11:00am, Bob Moore wrote:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DUMB ?s
>
> Joe Larson wrote:
>
> > > Would round-head rivets significantly increase
> > > drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
> >
> > You're going to save a few hours and have all those ugly roundies
> > sitting up in the airstream?
My Luscombe has round heads and gets over 100mph out of 65hp Cont..
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Senior Research Engineer
Advance Vehicle Technology
Ford Motor Company
Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: High Speed Taxi Testing |
Thanks for the article, Charles. I have been trying to find out whether to do
it or not. Vaughn tells how and many say don't.
Even tho some of the problems would not be there with my 6AQB, I see your point,
that the aircraft will fly and doesn't need hi speed taxi.
I also now suspect that landing too fast and forcing it on might be a real
bummer. Of course, that's dumb all the time!
Hal Kempthorne halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. (SJC)
Debonair N6134V A zillion RV-6AQ parts in the "hangar" we call home.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com (Rob Rimbold) |
Subject: | vortex generators |
> Wandering around the airport I keep seeing vortex generators attached to
> various parts of a wide variety of airplanes.
>
> Anybody done any investigation on the placement and efficiency of these bug
> slicers?
As I understand it, they're always just in front of the highest point
of the wing.
> And I'm unclear as to just what a vortex generator does. I thought
> smooth airflow was the goal; I've seen a couple of installations
> where, with a dozen v.g.'s, the odd numbered ones are aligned at 11
> o'clock and the even ones are at 1 o'clock.
The vortex that they generate will keep the airflow from lifting away
from the top of the wing during high angles of attack. This lowers
the stall speed. How much it is lowered probably depends on lots of
things like the airfoil shape and maybe even the smoothness of the
surface.
I just joined this list - I figured I'd put in my $0.02. :-)
The RV6A kit which I'm going to build with my neighbor should arrive
at his house here in FL sometime in the next 6-9 weeks. Any advice,
on any topic related to RVs is much appreciated!
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
Anybody got any hangar space where I can put the 4 in the San Antonio
area? My wife and I will be in the area vacationing Thursday - Sunday.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
Good description in Barnaby Wainfan's column in Kitplanes several months
ago. I will try to find which issue and post here tomorrow.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Hi,
>
>Wandering around the airport I keep seeing vortex generators attached to
various
>parts of a wide variety of airplanes.
>
>Anybody done any investigation on the placement and efficiency of these bug
>slicers?
>
>And I'm unclear as to just what a vortex generator does. I thought smooth
>airflow was the goal; I've seen a couple of installations where, with a dozen
>v.g.'s, the odd numbered ones are aligned at 11 o'clock and the even ones
are at
>1 o'clock.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
Subject: | Midwest Avionics |
Dear Listers
A few weeks ago I enquired if anybody new the telephone number or
address or email of Midwest Avionics but I did not get one reply.
So can anybody on the list help me
Thanks
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: High Speed Taxi Testing |
In message , Charles H Fink
writes
Charles,
Not intended as a flame.
I agree with your conclusions apart from
>Lift the tail as soon as possible. This does several things, as the tail rises
>the CG moves closer to the main gear, a more stable position. Also with the tail
>up the rudder is in cleaner air and therefore more effective and visibility of
>the runway is greatly improved allowing the pilot to detect the nose drifting
>off center sooner allowing smaller corrections. By my keeping the tail wheel on
>the ground for more control the tail wheel and rudder were fighting each other
>for control.
>
IMHO keep the stick hard back and only lift the tail when you have
enough speed for the fin and rudder to be effective, because the
gyroscopic force of the engine/prop caused by lifting the tail and the
normal torque effect will try and send you into the scrub. Most tail
draggers I have flown you can get away with doing it as you suggested
and I suspect this applies to RVs but there have been more than a few
luscombes and austers ground loop on take off because the tail has been
lightened up enough to loose tailwheel effectiveness and not enough
airspeed over the fin and rudder to transfer the control to aerodynamic
forces alone.
>Charles Fink RV-6 N548CF
>chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
>Albuquerque, New Mexico
>
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
In message <970318164717_75303.1623_GHI34-1(at)CompuServe.COM>, Robert
Fritz writes
>
>Hi,
>
>Wandering around the airport I keep seeing vortex generators attached to various
>parts of a wide variety of airplanes.
>
>Anybody done any investigation on the placement and efficiency of these bug
>slicers?
>
>And I'm unclear as to just what a vortex generator does. I thought smooth
>airflow was the goal;
Air sticks to the airframe and slows down close to the skin as it passes
over it, a bit like the wind gradient effect you get when landing into a
strong head wind. This slow air causes drag as it breaks away from the
airframe. The vortex generator brakes this layer of air that is close to
the skin away from the skin before it slows down too much, therefore
less drag.
Have a look at the zig zag vortex strips that are on high performance
gliders.
Well that what I wuz told anyway and I haven't heard any better lies to
disprove it yet.
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | S. Wittmans Paper |
From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
Would anyone know where I could get a copy of Steve Wittmans
info on his inverted Olds engine?
How about a place near New York state where I might shop for one?
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
>>Greg, David Fried in Toronto is in the final stages of a taperwing 6.
It should be flying early next year. <<
Does anyone know David Fried's address?
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Top Skins |
Regarding drilling fuselage top skins: others have commented on
whether to back-drill or not, and I won't add to that, but I would
like to stress that it is pretty important to take measures to stiffen
the bulkheads prior to strapping on the skin. I clamped strips of
wood to stiffen only the baggage cpt. bulkhead; the others looked
straight enough that I didn't bother to stiffen them. I didn't notice
until I had back drilled them to the skin that pulling the skin down
had forced the F-607 and especially the F-608 into a pronounced
"heart" shape at the top. Not a problem structurally but somewhat
dissapointing from a cosmetic standpoint.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TchrMellie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | For Ron from Mel |
Dear Ron,
I am sorry that we missed each other last night, but I am hoping that the
problem you were having with your server has been remedied and you will be
able to get on talk-city tonight.
I really enjoy talking to you soooooooo much, too. You are very sweet and
terribly romantic which I really love. I cannot begin to tell you how much
you make me smile!!!! In fact, it is everytime I think of you!!!!!!
Watch your mail, I will try to send you a card or a letter as soon as
possible. I would really enjoy getting to know you better. I think you are
an awesome guy!!!!!
I am looking forward to chatting with you again, I hope tonight. I kinda
missed chatting last night.
Be good and I will talk to you soon.
Melanie :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
Subject: | vortex generators |
There was just an excellent article in one of the recent kitplanes
magazines I believe on the principles behind vorteces, laminar flow, and
why golf balls have dimples. I don't remember which magazine it was.
Maybe someone can remind me of the issue and I'll scan it in.
> ----------
> From:
> apollo.hp.com!rimbold(at)matronics.com[SMTP:apollo.hp.com!rimbold(at)matroni
> cs.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 1997 11:32 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc: kerrjb(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: vortex generators
>
>
>
> > Wandering around the airport I keep seeing vortex generators
> attached to
> > various parts of a wide variety of airplanes.
> >
> > Anybody done any investigation on the placement and efficiency of
> these bug
> > slicers?
>
> As I understand it, they're always just in front of the highest point
> of the wing.
>
> > And I'm unclear as to just what a vortex generator does. I thought
> > smooth airflow was the goal; I've seen a couple of installations
> > where, with a dozen v.g.'s, the odd numbered ones are aligned at 11
> > o'clock and the even ones are at 1 o'clock.
>
> The vortex that they generate will keep the airflow from lifting away
> from the top of the wing during high angles of attack. This lowers
> the stall speed. How much it is lowered probably depends on lots of
> things like the airfoil shape and maybe even the smoothness of the
> surface.
>
> I just joined this list - I figured I'd put in my $0.02. :-)
>
> The RV6A kit which I'm going to build with my neighbor should arrive
> at his house here in FL sometime in the next 6-9 weeks. Any advice,
> on any topic related to RVs is much appreciated!
>
> 'Rob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
>Anybody done any investigation on the placement and efficiency of
>these [vortex generators]?
>
>And I'm unclear as to just what a vortex generator does. I thought
>smooth
>airflow was the goal; I've seen a couple of installations where, with
>a dozen
>v.g.'s, the odd numbered ones are aligned at 11 o'clock and the even
>ones are at
>1 o'clock.
Robert,
Uh oh, you've touched a hot button of mine. I'll try to keep from
shouting.
Before I begin, I have a BS in aeronautical engineering from the Air
Force Academy. This means I can generally recognize aero talk, but am by
no means an expert.
The purpose of vortex generators is to energize the boundary layer of air
flow across a body. The vortex generator is a tiny wing placed at an
angle of attack to the local velocity, generating a small vortex in the
boundary layer. This has the beneficial effect of delaying the point at
which flow separation occurs, with its attendant dramatic increase in
drag. Placement is determined by detecting the point on an aircraft
surface at which separation begins. The VG will be placed slightly
upstream of this point.
This technique will likely have no beneficial effect for the RV series.
First, the RV is a tractor design. It is unlikely that laminar flow
exists anywhere on the fuselage, the inboard portion of the wings, or on
the tail, because of disturbed flow in the wake of the prop. Second, the
wing uses a turbulent flow airfoil section, meaning that the boundary
layer is predominantly turbulent anyway. Early, unpredictable flow
separation is not a concern for this design. (Besides, first-time
builders like me make enough unwanted dimples and poor lap joints to
ensure turbulent boundary flow without any extra effort :-).
Finally, we come to my soap-box speech (my own purely subjective
opinion.) Many design choices perform better on paper than in the real
world. Every design choice in aeronautics has both a benefit and a cost.
Everything is a trade-off. The aircraft designer tries to weight the
benefits in his favor and minimize the cost for the intended purpose of
his airplane. When an aircraft design relies heavily on extensive
laminar flow to achieve its design objectives, it will pay the price in
other areas. High angle of attack (high coefficient of lift) flight is
one notable penalty for extensive laminar flow designs. This flight
regime includes maneuvering flight, takeoff and landing. Thus, aircraft
designs optimized for cruise speed and range pay a price in poor
aerobatic performance and long takeoff and landing distances (or heavy,
expensive high-lift devices). Compare the aerobatic capabilities and
runway requirements of the RV series with your favorite glass pusher
design and you will see what I mean.
To my way of thinking, expending the large amount of effort required to
ensure extensive laminar flow on an airplane, then going back and
sticking shark's teeth all over it to fix the high angle of attack
characteristics, is a poor approach. In particular, laminar flow is much
easier to obtain in theory than in practice. Normal variations in
construction, bug deposits, rain, ice accumulations, etc. all conspire to
ruin that pretty laminar flow anyway, reducing the expected benefit. I
think Van made an excellent design choice for a kit-built airplane
expected to perform well in a wide range of flight regimes.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 installing engine mount
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: High Speed Taxi Testing |
I don't recommend high speed taxi-testing RV's for one simple reason - THEY
WILL BE AIRBORNE BEFORE YOU KNOW IT. If you are not prepared to go flying,
the RV will be, and your whole game plan just changed in about 2 seconds, are
you ready for that?
If your RV is properly constructed, within c.g. range, and slow speed taxi's
without any turning tendancy, it should be ready to fly. If you have no
experience with such a machine, then now is not the time to get it. There are
plenty of experienced RV pilots who can test fly the bird for you. Good Luck.
Bill Mahoney
RV-6
N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
Vortex generators are an aerodynamic fix. The small blade is angled to the
local flow and creates a vortex behind it. This spinning tube of air adds
energy to the boundary layer and helps to delay separation.
On the Long-eze, the vortilons at the wing leading edge help maintain
attached flow on the wing at high angles of attack.
On the SeaHawker there are VGs on the fuselage to minimize separation in
front of the prop as the fuselage tapers sharply in this location.
On the P-51 (sigh) the dorsal fin creates a vortex over the fin at large
sideslip angles to maintain rudder effectiveness.
etc...
There are a number of ways that specialized VG's can be used to stabilize
eddies in smooth boundary layers to improve drag. On an aircraft like ours
you would probably never achieve it.
David Fried
ddebt(at)pathcom.com
>
>Hi,
>
>Wandering around the airport I keep seeing vortex generators attached to
various
>parts of a wide variety of airplanes.
>
>Anybody done any investigation on the placement and efficiency of these bug
>slicers?
>
>And I'm unclear as to just what a vortex generator does. I thought smooth
>airflow was the goal; I've seen a couple of installations where, with a dozen
>v.g.'s, the odd numbered ones are aligned at 11 o'clock and the even ones
are at
>1 o'clock.
>
>
David Fried
ddebt(at)pathcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
>
Larry
I sent the following note to Greg Hughes off list. I am repeating it here
for all.
Greg
Get a hold of the archive and you will see that most of the postings can be
considered Dumb ?s.
The Dumbest is the one that doesn't get asked.
Round head rivets would increase drag and drastically reduce the resale
value of the aircraft. The RV series performs as well as it does because the
designer paid close attention to many small details. Flush rivetting was one
of the bigger ones.
Dimpling is not an unpleasant task or even a lengthy one. It will
only take half as long as deburring.
I find that it is easier to drive flush rivets. The flush rivet set
is much more forgiving of misalignment
than the round head.
The best way to save time and avoid mangled rivets on this project
is to order the quick build kit. The
only reason I wouldn't do it myself is the lack of a tapered wing.
If you have access to the internet, Matt Dralle (your RV-List host) has an
excellent web site that includes a searchable archive of all the RV-List
postings, Dumb ?s and all. Search for Fried and/or Taper, you will find
all that I posted about the tapered wing I am working on.
www.matronics.com
If you want to know more about it, drop me a line.
David Fried
ddebt(at)pathcom.comm
>Does anyone know David Fried's address?
>
>Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
David Fried
ddebt(at)pathcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerzy S.Krasinski" <krasins(at)master.ceat.okstate.edu> |
Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
I think the discussion of the laminar/turbulent flow and associated
drag was in one of the recent issues of the Scientific American.
Jerzy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Chatter: Re: For Ron from Mel |
Hi Melanie,
>
>Dear Ron,
^^^
Uh, you mis-spelled Frank...
>I am sorry that we missed each other last night,
Me too!
>but I am hoping that the
>problem you were having with your server has been remedied and you will be
>able to get on talk-city tonight.
>
>I really enjoy talking to you soooooooo much, too. You are very sweet and
>terribly romantic which I really love. I cannot begin to tell you how much
>you make me smile!!!! In fact, it is everytime I think of you!!!!!!
I bet you say that to all the boys.
>Watch your mail, I will try to send you a card or a letter as soon as
>possible. I would really enjoy getting to know you better. I think you are
>an awesome guy!!!!!
Wait a minute, you *are* saying it to all the boys... you sent this to the
RV-list, a bunch of 600 testosterone-enhanced guys, not just to Ron... Any
message for the girls (Hi Cheryl, Hi Louise :) on the list?
>I am looking forward to chatting with you again, I hope tonight. I kinda
>missed chatting last night.
I guess Ron must have been polishing his spar or dimpling his skins or
something... come up and see me sometime, you and I could do some
rivet-bucking together.
>Be good and I will talk to you soon.
Looking forward to it. Do you own an RV? Perhaps you could send me a photo
of it?
Frank ;-}
PS: We don't need to tell Ron about this, OK?
PPS: What sort of primer do you use?
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nzZ (without the anti-email-spam Z, of course)
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/
Frank van der Hulst, Software Engineer, Cardax, PEC(NZ) Ltd, Marton
"Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass; A good bookshop is just a genteel
Black Hole that knows how to read". Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Top Skins |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
> I am ready to start the fitting of the rear top fuselage skin, F-675.
> The instructions mention two method, backdrilling or tracing the
> position of the bulkheard and stringers on the skin and then drilling.
>
> It would seem that the second method is just asking for trouble. Am
> suggestions or comments on which method to use?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Glenn Gordon
I drilled the structure w/ 1/16" holess and then back drilled the skin
with very good results. I would highly recommend this method.
Frank Smidler
RV-6, putting on the slide canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
Subject: | Re: S. Wittmans Paper |
Larry Mac Donald wrote:
>
>
> Would anyone know where I could get a copy of Steve Wittmans
> info on his inverted Olds engine?
> How about a place near New York state where I might shop for one?
>
> Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty is selling info on his conversion as well
as plans to the Tailwind.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
>Craig-Stearman)
>
>>Anybody done any investigation on the placement and efficiency of
>>these [vortex generators]?
>> snip----
>
>Uh oh, you've touched a hot button of mine. I'll try to keep from
>shouting.
>
>Before I begin, I have a BS in aeronautical engineering from the Air
>Force Academy. This means I can generally recognize aero talk, but am by
>no means an expert.
>
> ---much snipped out (though quite a good analysis IMHO--whm)
>
>Regards,
>Tom Craig-Stearman
>tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
>RV-4 installing engine mount
I have to agree with Tom. I got my BSAE from Wichita State U, not the AF
Academy, though I'm sure the education is probably equivalent. And I also
agree with Tom regarding what it means (hey Tom, was one of your
instructors at the Academy named C. Simon? ...just curious, I work with
him). Most of the time, VGs are added to fix problems with separated
airflow, either causing such things as control surface snatching or buzz
(this is more of a high-speed phenomenon), or in some cases to improve the
stall characteristics. There are some outfits that add VGs to an existing
TC'd airplane by STC, claiming that it dramatically reduces stall speeds,
and (in the case of twins) lowers the minimum-control speed. I know of
some flight tests done on such a configurtion, both before and after the
mods were done, under very tightly controlled configurations and with a
carefully calibrated airspeed and angle-of-attack boom installed to see
what benefit there really was...and the conclusion was that, if it improved
the airplane's performance at all, it was due to a lightening of the
pilot's wallet. Obviously, there's a lot of trial-and-error in some of
these installations...the bottom line for RVs is that Van did a great job
of taking the reasons for needing VGs out of the designs.
Regards...
Bill Mills
Wichita
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
Subject: | Wanted:rv-6a fuselage |
Bought a wing today, have a tail, looking for a 6A fuselage in any state =
of completion. West coast preferred. I know it's a long shot, but a life =
without questions is a life without answers.=20
Jerry H. Prado
jerryprado(at)wa.net (eve)=20
v-jerryp(at)microsoft.com
vmail 888-204-5330
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
<19970318.084753.3406.1.BStobbe(at)juno.com>
From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
Stobbe) writes:
>
>>From the stupid-question-of-the-day bin: I would prefer to go the
>180 HP/fixed-pitch prop route but am somewhat scared by my lack of
>knowledge of proper care and feeding of wood props. In other words, I
>know next to nothing about them compared with knowing slightly more
>than nothing about metal props. Is a fixed-pitch metal prop available
>for an RV-6 with 180 HP? What is the problem with using the same prop
>as, say, a Cherokee 180 (diameter too large)? What about
>concerns with operating a wood prop in precip? In general, what are
>the
>disadvantages to using a wood prop?
>
>Bruce Stobbe RV-6
Hi Bruce,
Since nobody's answered this yet, I'll give it a try. I don't
have any experience with wood props, but I will share what I recall
reading at one point or another. You might be able to use a wood prop in
very light rain at reduced power. Cruise power or anything heavier than
very light precip will erode the leading edge. It's for sure not the
prop to choose if you are thinking IFR. Another thing the wood prop
needs is careful attention to bolt torque. It must be checked very
frequently after it's initial installation. If I remember the article
correctly, it said to check it after the first 10 minutes of run time,
then something like the next 30 minutes and keep increasing the
interval. You might have to recheck with seasonal changes in humidity
also. A wood prop is also said to be smoother than a metal one.
Anybody on the list with a wood prop care to add or comment on
what I've said here? I can't believe everyone is running a metal prop
out there in RV airspace.
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
H S Skeleton (on hold) (fire extinguisher standing by)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
> You will find that dimpling/c'sinking rivets does not
>add an appreciable amount of time to construction. On the other hand I find
>that driving countersunk rivets is a little easier than round heads and of
>course the finished product sure looks a lot nicer.
>
you will discover that you spend more time with tasks such as figuring out
which little bag has the fasteners, the never ending priming, andbegin to
look forward to something repetitive (-:
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Subject: | Re: For Ron from Mel |
aol.com!TchrMellie(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Dear Ron,
>
> I am sorry that we missed each other last night, but I am hoping that the
> problem you were having with your server has been remedied and you will be
> able to get on talk-city tonight.
>
> I really enjoy talking to you soooooooo much, too. You are very sweet and
> terribly romantic which I really love. I cannot begin to tell you how much
> you make me smile!!!! In fact, it is everytime I think of you!!!!!!
>
> Watch your mail, I will try to send you a card or a letter as soon as
> possible. I would really enjoy getting to know you better. I think you are
> an awesome guy!!!!!
>
> I am looking forward to chatting with you again, I hope tonight. I kinda
> missed chatting last night.
>
> Be good and I will talk to you soon.
>
> Melanie :-)
Sounds like some one is waiting for you. (SWEETIE!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
Subject: | Re: Buick Motor was (Ivo prop-rv-6) |
I have two motors. One is a Buick all alum 215 and the other is an Olds
215. Both are 61-63's. They are essentially the same motor except the
heads are different. The Buick has better heads. The aftermarket still
makes allot of parts for the Buick. I planing on a 4000 rpm Max RPM using
a Buick 300 crank. Total displacement = 266ci. I'm looking for 200hp.
Belted Airpower (702)384-8006 and Northwest Aero Products (206)735-5022
make re-drives for both Buicks and Chevs. Belted Airpower has been using
the Buick in a RV-6 for 12 years. They are also working on the Chev V-6
conversion.
For the best and complete information on conversions get a subscription to:
Contact (newsletter for Alternative motors)
2900 East Weymouth
Tucson, AZ 85716-1249
They also have a book. It's great. Lately, it seems like they have RV's
in every issue. The information is useful not only for conversions but
also in building planes in general. Lots of great ideas.
I believe aircraft motors are better and safer but I just can't afford
them. With the right modifications, auto motors work O.K.
Has anyone thought about using a BRS Parachute system?? A chute that can
safely bring the whole plane down. I have talked to them. They would like
to build a system for the RV. I think if enough people were interested and
called they would get it out sooner.
BRS Inc.
(612)457-7491
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: chatter re: DUMB ?s |
Ken Hitchmough wrote:
>
>
>
> > 2. Would round-head rivets significantly
> increase
> >drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
>
>
> My memorie is a little vague on the subject but I do recall an article
> about an experiment performed on a Spitfire after WW2 where some boffin
> wanted to see the effects of universal rivets as oppososed to c'sunk.
> It seems that they glued THOUSANDS of split peas to every rivet
> location on the Spit and flew it. The effect was quite dramatic.
>
> Ken RV6A Flying
I remember I flew to Merced, CA one year and along the way met up in
the air with a guy flying a RV-3, after landing and parking along side
him it was probably a couple hours before I realized his RV-3 was
riveted with universal rivets, it sure did not seem to hurt his
performence.
On another subject for Ken Hitchmough, Ken it may be just my mail
editor but every post you send is carbon copied and in the header
mine shows you are carbon copying the RV-list so each post is sent
twice.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
>Gary Corde asked:
>
>Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings. I'm
>going to remove my gascolator but I still want to filter my fuel.
>
>>------------------------
>>I bought two fuel filters from Airflow Performance (the same folks who
>>make aftermarket fuel injection systems, (864) 576-4512, FAX (864)
>>576-0201). They are billet aluminum, about 1-5/8" in diameter, about 5"
>>long, with AN 816-6-6D fitting at both ends. They use a stainless filter
>>rated at 150 microns, and list for $93.00 each.
*** snip ***
>>
>>Mike Kukulski
A similar billet type fuel filter (nicely blue anodized) is also
available from Earl's Plumbing (the race car plumbers, not household
plumbing!) The size even appears to be about the same. The two end caps
are threaded (and sealed with O-rings) so the unit can be taken apart for
cleaning. Price is closer to $30. It looks very similar to the photo in
Vans catalog of the "Fuel Check Valve", which Earls also sells ....
It comes in two flavors, a true fuel filter (with a sintered bronze
element, I believe), or as a "Fuel Pre-Filter" which has a screen in it
that appears to be the same guage (or is it mesh?) as a standard aircraft
gascolator. This standard gascolator screen mesh would hardly qualify IMHO
as a true fuel filter, only as a strainer for large particles - the units
of 'microns' mentioned above just does not compute when you look at the
screen in a gascolator ...:^) I'm not sure if the previous postings on
this subject were trying to replace a gascolator with something of similar
screen guage, or trying to upgrade the straining/filtering to that of an
automotive type fuel filter.
Personally, I would like to not use a gascolator, and use two of these
fuel "pre-filters" in the lines from the tanks to the selector valve. I am
hoping that I can fit these in the gap between the wing and the fuselage so
that I won't have any serviceable fuel items in the cockpit area ...
perhaps they will fit with a couple of right angle fittings and the use of
a flexible hose to the selector valve ....
... Gil (bought one from Earls) Alexander
RV6A, #20701 ... clearing the shop to make room to put it on it's wheels.
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
Allan&Bruce,
Ive been flying a wood prop for the life of my airplane and like anything
else its got its good points and bad points. First a wood prop is initially
cheaper than a metal prop. A wood prop can be designed around your engine and
airframe combination. Their are enough people flying RV's with wood props
that a person can be steered in the proper direction for prop selection. In
other words you only have to buy one prop to get exactly what you want. What
your stating about the rain is partially true and some wood props hold up
better in rain then others. I find if I pull back to 2300 rpm's, the rain
gives my prop no problems and my speed is still quite fast. Ive also found
that at 190 mph the rain is as hard on my paint job as the prop.
The advantages of a wood prop (a good wood prop) are good climb and cruise.
Most fixed pitch metal props dont have the same performance. Also my
experience has been the wood prop runs smoother. One other thing to consider
with a metal prop such as the sensenich is that it is rpm limited.
Should anyone be contemplating a wood prop manufacturor I have 2
recomendations. Ive flown with alot of people and seen a lot of wood props.
Aymar Demuth and Bernie Warnakee. Both props have excellent climb and cruise
performance. One thing that impressed me about Demuth was that he could pin
down exactly what you have in your engine wheather stock or hopped up and
design a prop around it the first time. As far as torque I check my prop
torque at oil changes or when I have the cowl off for some other reason.(no
big deal) Well enough rambling and bable hope this helps.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: BRS (was Buick Motor) |
>Has anyone thought about using a BRS Parachute system?? A chute that can
>safely bring the whole plane down. I have talked to them. They would like
>to build a system for the RV. I think if enough people were interested and
>called they would get it out sooner.
I thought about a BRS, and discarded the idea for the following reasons:
1. In a wind of 20kts, your groundspeed is going to be almost as fast
downwind under a BRS as going upwind in an RV. You also won't be able to
control where you're going to land.
2. A BRS able to hold an RV would be very large, and therefore heavy,
bulky, and expensive. I think that it would probably reduce an RV to a
1-seater, and probably put it over the max. aerobatic weight too.
3. What's the maximum opening speed of a BRS? (I don't know). How often
will you be flying below that speed, and sufficiently high above the ground
for the BRS to be useful?
4. Given that most aircraft accidents are due to pilot error (notably
running out of fuel), you'd probably be better off putting in a larger fuel
tank than a BRS.
Just my 2c worth,
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
>
>I would prefer to go the 180 HP/fixed-pitch prop route but am somewhat
>scared by my lack of knowledge of proper care and feeding of wood props.
>Bruce Stobbe
>RV-6
Bruce,
I have an Aymar-Demuth wood prop on my 160 HP RV-6. The only maint.
on my wood prop is to check the torque every 25 hours with the oil change.
The torque is always within limits(except for about the first 20 hours,
which is normal). I understand that some wood props do not fare as well in
that area.
Performance,
162 mph IAS at 21.5" MP, 182 mph IAS at 24.5" MP. Sorry, I don't have an OAT
gauge, so I can't give you TAS. Maybe someday I will stop flying for a
moment and install one.
I have 135 hours on my prop and have had no problems with it, and in
Maryland we change temperatures and humidity hourly. I haven't flown in any
heavy precipitation, so I can't comment on that. My prop has the steel/epoxy
leading edge protection although I don't think the paint would hold up very
well.
I chose a wood prop for, economy, simplicity, weight.
I hope this helps.
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
Everything you stated I've found to be true with my Warnke prop. I now only
check the bolt torque every oil change, which for me is 25 hours. I've never
had any problem with loose bolts. I am also running a 150 hp engine. I know
of a local six driver who has a 180 hp engine who started with a well know
prop which uses the large laminations. He had a lot of trouble maintaining
torque, it would burn the back of the prop. He switched to a Warnke (which
uses very thin laminations) after a couple of hundred hours and has had no
trouble.
Rick McBride
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Orndorff RV-8 videos |
Greg,
we are finishing the RV8 wing video up at this point and hope to have it
ready by Sun& Fun.....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
>
>Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings. I'm
>going to remove my gascolator but I still want to filter my fuel.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Airflow Performance has one. Give Don a call. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
On another subject for Ken Hitchmough, Ken it may be just my mail
editor but every post you send is carbon copied and in the header
mine shows you are carbon copying the RV-list so each post is sent
twice.
Thanks Jerry, I guess they still haven't worked out the bugs. I'll
watch it and manually address my replies instead of replying directly.
On investigation, each message I get from the list has me as the TO:
addressee and the list as a TO: address aswell. Can't figure out why.
If I reply it goes to the sender (the list) and the other TO: address
(the list again).
Is anyone else seeing this?
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Buick Motor was (Ivo prop-rv-6) |
>Belted Airpower has been using
>the Buick in a RV-6 for 12 years.
Hmmmm....are there any customer completed RV-6's more than 7 or 8 years
old...listers?
I have seen a Buick powered Swift that has been flying for 13+ years though.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Subject: | Re: Buick Motor was (Ivo prop-rv-6) |
Ernesto,
If an experimenter were shopping for a design to test an alternative engine
package in, an RV would probably be the best choice available due to its
wide performance envelope. Low stall speed and good short field capability
are good insurance.
Ballistic chutes came into vogue in the hang gliding (I am a long time hang
glider pilot) and ultralight communities, where structural failures occur
due to pilot error, extreme weather, design deficiencies, etc... Even in
this arena ballistics are not a panacea. There have been a number of
failures of ballistic systems. Ballistics do add cost, weight, and possibly
a false sense of security.
To my knowledge RV's dont have any kind of history with structural
problems, so a ballistic would not seem to be called for in this application.
Fly your RV with its alternative engine and enjoy it. Fly conservatively,
fly high, think about what you will do in case of engine failure, and
practice it.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Has anyone thought about using a BRS Parachute system?? A chute that can
>safely bring the whole plane down. I have talked to them. They would like
>to build a system for the RV. I think if enough people were interested and
>called they would get it out sooner.
>
>BRS Inc.
>(612)457-7491
>
>Ernesto Sanchez
>es12043(at)utech.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
Subject: | Re: BRS (was Buick Motor) |
BRS related a total weight of 40-50lbs and a system designed for the speed
of the RV.
You run out of gas over rocky terrain, slow to stall, and pop the chute at
1000' and land hard but not as hard if you didn't have it.......
Motor breaks, no where to land, slow and pop the chute.
A mid air collision, pop the chute.
You have a heart attack. Wife pops the chute and collects the insurance
money!
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
----------
> From: Frank van der Hulst <pec.co.nz!frankv(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: BRS (was Buick Motor)
> Date: Tuesday, March 19, 1996 1:26 AM
>
>
> >Has anyone thought about using a BRS Parachute system?? A chute that
can
> >safely bring the whole plane down. I have talked to them. They would
like
> >to build a system for the RV. I think if enough people were interested
and
> >called they would get it out sooner.
>
> I thought about a BRS, and discarded the idea for the following reasons:
>
> 1. In a wind of 20kts, your groundspeed is going to be almost as fast
> downwind under a BRS as going upwind in an RV. You also won't be able to
> control where you're going to land.
>
> 2. A BRS able to hold an RV would be very large, and therefore heavy,
> bulky, and expensive. I think that it would probably reduce an RV to a
> 1-seater, and probably put it over the max. aerobatic weight too.
>
> 3. What's the maximum opening speed of a BRS? (I don't know). How often
> will you be flying below that speed, and sufficiently high above the
ground
> for the BRS to be useful?
>
> 4. Given that most aircraft accidents are due to pilot error (notably
> running out of fuel), you'd probably be better off putting in a larger
fuel
> tank than a BRS.
>
> Just my 2c worth,
>
> Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
Here is some sources of information on Buick 215's:
Contact (Newsletter for Conversions)
2900 Weymouth
Tucson, AZ, 85716-1249
This is a good source of Info. Their book is even better!
Also, the Buick motor was sold to Rover and still is in use to this day.
Search the web for Rover and TR8. There is a web page with great Info and
sources of parts but I don't have the address.
A good parts supllier is D&D Fabrications (810)798-2491. They sell
blocks, heads and all the required goodies. They have experience in
building these motors for planes. The owner was a GM engineer. When GM
was about to build the Cadilac Northstar motor, a Buick 215 was brought out
and used for a source of ideas on how to build the Cadi motor.
Another good book is "Tuning Rover V8 Engines" by David Hardcastle. Call
Classic Motor books (800)826-6600.
I wouldn't pay more than $200 -250 for a core motor and I would plan on
re-placing everything.
A Buick motor is O.K. with the right mods but an airplane motor is better!
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Subject: | Re: For Ron from Mel |
aol.com!TchrMellie(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Dear Ron,
>
> I am sorry that we missed each other last night, but I am hoping that the
> problem you were having with your server has been remedied and you will be
> able to get on talk-city tonight.
>
> I really enjoy talking to you soooooooo much, too. You are very sweet and
> terribly romantic which I really love. I cannot begin to tell you how much
> you make me smile!!!! In fact, it is everytime I think of you!!!!!!
>
> Watch your mail, I will try to send you a card or a letter as soon as
> possible. I would really enjoy getting to know you better. I think you are
> an awesome guy!!!!!
>
> I am looking forward to chatting with you again, I hope tonight. I kinda
> missed chatting last night.
>
> Be good and I will talk to you soon.
>
> Melanie :-)
We love you to Ron..........
The RV List
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Subject: | Re: Buick Motor was (Ivo prop-rv-6) |
Rob,
Correct. Jess Meyers has been flying his Swift behind a 215 Buick and one
of his belt redrives for many years. One of his customers has been flying an
RV-6 with the 215 Buick for 1 or 2 years now. I believe most of their
efforts are now focused on the 4.3L Chevy V6.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>>Belted Airpower has been using
>>the Buick in a RV-6 for 12 years.
>
>Hmmmm....are there any customer completed RV-6's more than 7 or 8 years
>old...listers?
>
>I have seen a Buick powered Swift that has been flying for 13+ years though.
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Baines <bill(at)sfu.ca> |
Subject: | Re: T.S.O. or not T.S.O. |
Dan,
I like your summary of the pros and cons of Technical Standard Orders. I
agree that there are lots of non-TSO'd radio examples that work fine. As for
some instruments like altimeters and airspeed indicators, I prefer to buy
the TSO'd versions because of the minimum performance standards they must
meet. (I had an uncomfortable encounter with an inaccurate altimeter in my
Champ a number of years ago.)
In Canada at least (or perhaps in some regions in Canada) all aircraft parts
that are components of a "required" system must be "approved" -- and that
means it must have a "type aproval" -- "type approvals" are not only granted
to aircraft, but appliances also (i.e. radios and instruments). If the part
is of foreign manufacture, and it has been designed to a foreign standard,
the foreign standard may be acceptable. Our airworthiness manual chapter 537
list acceptable foreign standards, and the last time I looked, the FAA TSOs
were all acceptable.
Another means of approval is by the inclusion of the product on the aircraft
type certificate. I'm not really clear what that means in the context of an
amateur built aircraft. For example, a transponder/encoder must use TSO'd or
type approved parts if the aircraft will fly in airspace that requires such
equipment (i.e. it is "required" equipment) Is it OK for an amateur builder
to use non-tso'd equipment in this case? Probably not, because of the
safety issues, and danger to other aircraft if the equipment sends bad data
to the SSR.
For IFR in amateur built aircraft, there is a short document (an
Airworthines Notice, I think) that lists the requirements. Basically it
refers to other regulations where minimum equipment lists are specified, and
requires that the builder deliver a document to Transport Canada, certifying
that the installed systems and equipment perform to the same standards that
are required for certified aircraft. Seems to me that buying TSO'd equipment
is easier, and at leaast for radios not much more expensive.
>The original question here was "instruments", not radios and other such
>equipment. For me what came to mind is altimeters, and attitude
>indicators. We all know that there is good non-TSO equipment and not so good
>non-TSO equipment. Same goes for TSO. While TSO does not necessarily
>determine the ongoing quality of a unit, it does establish a minimum
>performance standard. For example a non-TSO altimiter has no accuracy
>standards other than what the manufacturer decides to use. Therefore,
>without test you can't reliably know whether your altimeter will give
>you 20 ft. of accuracy throughout the useable temperature/altitude range, or
>500'. The TSO unit does have an established accuracy standard which
>would be adequate for IFR. Same goes with the gyros. These both are
>"Critical" systems for IFR.
>
>It is interesting to note that nowhere in the TSO process is reliability
>addressed, other than by field experienced failure history. Only when
>an accident occurs or excess malfunction reports are filed with the FAA
>will they even notice reliability/ quality issues.
>
>BTW, I completly agree about TSO radios, although once again the TSO
>does establish minimum perfromance standards. For example
>altitude/temp/ vibration, etc. Most of these specs are outside our
>normal operating envelope anyhow, For instance we don't often see degredation
>due to altitude because we don't go to 40K ft. Temp can be an issue for
>instance. For you northerners -20 C is not unlikely. Most LCD's won't
>operate below 0 C.
>
>Once again though ongoing quality is not addressed.
>
>With respect to 21.303 issues, like TSO, these don't apply to experimentals.
>
>Dan Morris
>Morristec(at)icdc.com
Bill Baines | bill(at)sfu.ca
Home/Bus: 604-535-2709 | VE7FML
Fax/Job: 604-533-0618 |
Pager: 604-680-9072 |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: BRS (was Buick Motor) |
>
>BRS related a total weight of 40-50lbs and a system designed for the speed
>of the RV.
OK, much lighter than I thought. My understanding was that the surface area
of the chute increases with the square of the weight of the aircraft under
it. But can you pop this chute at 200mph and expect it and the aircraft to
survive?
>You run out of gas over rocky terrain, slow to stall, and pop the chute at
>1000' and land hard but not as hard if you didn't have it.......
Unless there's a 20kt+ wind, in which case you land a lot harder than if
you fly the RV down and choose the best landing site available.
>Motor breaks, no where to land, slow and pop the chute.
As above.
>A mid air collision, pop the chute.
I guess in this case the chute gives you an extra option... however, if
it's a serious midair you may be too hurt to pop the chute, or the aircraft
may be too damaged to survive the opening shock. If it's not serious, the
aircraft may still be flyable.
>You have a heart attack. Wife pops the chute and collects the insurance
>money!
Teach Wife to fly... I'd guess it would be cheaper and more fun than buying
a BRS.
Now 4c worth,
Frank.
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nzZ (without the anti-email-spam Z, of course)
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/
Frank van der Hulst, Software Engineer, Cardax, PEC(NZ) Ltd, Marton
"Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass; A good bookshop is just a genteel
Black Hole that knows how to read". Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Top Skins |
Glenn wrote:
>The instructions mention two method, backdrilling or tracing
I sayy, find a tiny person and show them how to use the drill. Mark the framing
where you want the person to drill. They might only drill some of the holes
which you could then use as index to do the rest.
I traced the back of the sheet - measure thrice cut once! But I came real close
to messing up.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Talk to me before you cut into F-6112!
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
Subject: | Re: Double messages |
>Is anyone else seeing this?
>Ken:
It went away for a while and then the double doses returned. (Only one of
this one).
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Need advice on Squeezer, HVLP Gun |
Hi all you builders of most of the single engine aircraft built today!
Even tho I will mash only a few rivets, I need a squeezer. I don't have the
usual needs as I am building a quick build. Do I want an Avery or Tatco and
should I get a 1.5 inch or a 3 inch? Or what?
I see a web page for a Lexair HVLP paint gun. $399 on the plastic. Is this an
old name? Is it better than Binks or... (They claim they are!) URL is
http://www1.usa1.com/~stephenb/2002.html
I never see it mentioned - the table saw. I have an old 8 inch Delta. I put in
a well used plywood blade with the tiny teeth and it cuts 0.125 almost as easily
as it did plywood!
When they say a thousand hours, does that include head scratching time?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Talk to me before you cut into F-6112!
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Buick Motor and Chevy V-6 |
The Chevy they have is iron block and heads but I've heard it is lighter than
the aluminum BOP (Buick) engine. There is an all aluminum version available
which is lighter than the IO-360. The Chevy is 262 cu in vs 215 and puts out
220 hp without mods and is available new for aout $1600 for the long block. New
is so cheap it seems to me silly to get a junk engine. Now they even have an
engine mount for the 6A - made by the folks who make Van's.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Talk to me before you cut into F-6112!
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>Correct. Jess Meyers has been flying his Swift behind a 215 Buick and one
>of his belt redrives for many years. One of his customers has been flying an
>RV-6 with the 215 Buick for 1 or 2 years now. I believe most of their
>efforts are now focused on the 4.3L Chevy V6.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Buick Motor was (Ivo prop-rv-6) |
> Correct. Jess Meyers has been flying his Swift behind a 215 Buick and one
>of his belt redrives for many years. One of his customers has been flying an
>RV-6 with the 215 Buick for 1 or 2 years now. I believe most of their
>efforts are now focused on the 4.3L Chevy V6.
People interested in this should frequent rec.aviation.homebuilt... there's
been a fair bit of discussion on auto engines in homebuilts. Bill Phillips,
the test pilot for 4.3L Chevy Vortec V6 powered RV-6 (or is it a -6A?) is a
regular contributor. Haven't heard much about the Chevy for a while though;
I guess this means that it's going just fine.
For those who departed r.a.h in the wake of the Paul Lamar flamefests,
you'll be glad to come back now. After he publicly accused Bill of 'selling
dangerous engines', and Bill fired a lawsuit at him, Mr Lamar has toned
down his posts considerably, to the point of being almost undetectable.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: For Ron from Mel |
>
>Dear Ron,
>
>I am sorry that we missed each other last night, but...
much RV related mushy stuff deleted
>I really enjoy talking to you soooooooo much...
Forget it, he's a cat. Now, me, I'm more your type.
>Watch your mail, I will try to send you a card or a letter as soon as
>possible. I would really enjoy getting to know you better. I think you are
>an awesome guy!!!!!
>
I'm telling you, he's a cat.
>Be good and I will talk to you soon.
>
Oooooooooh, my heart is going pitter-patter!!!!
>Melanie :-)
>
Buster :=)*()~~
"On the Internet, nobody knows you're a dog" - unknown
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need advice on Squeezer, HVLP Gun |
From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
Kempthorne) writes:
>Even tho I will mash only a few rivets, I need a squeezer. I don't
have the usual >needs as I am building a quick build. Do I want an Avery
or Tatco and should I get a >1.5 inch or a 3 inch? Or what?
Hal,
I have extensive experience with both the Tatco and the Avery squeezer.
I greatly prefer Avery's. It has longer handles which make it easier to
squeeze 1/8" rivets. It has stiffer heads which don't spread as much
while squeezing. Most helpful, it has quick-change heads. You can buy
one handle with two or three heads and cover all your squeezing needs.
Two heads should be enough for most jobs. I have a three-inch head
drilled for a rivet die (although the next size smaller would probably be
better) and a 2 1/2 inch(?) flat head (undrilled) for flush riveting,
epecially in tight spaces like the trailing edges of the control
surfaces.
By the way, I envy your fast-build kit. you'll probably be flying before
I will!
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 installing engine mount
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Electronic Ignition |
Has anyone had experience with Electronic ignition on a Lycoming. What are
the benifits? the downside?
Denny RV-6 Fuselage
Lebanon,OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
Subject: | Re: Need advice on Squeezer, HVLP Gun |
> Even tho I will mash only a few rivets, I need a squeezer. I don't have the
> usual needs as I am building a quick build. Do I want an Avery or Tatco and
> should I get a 1.5 inch or a 3 inch? Or what?
The Avery squeezer is (IMHO) far superior to the Tatco squeezer.
I have a 1.5 inch, and it works for *most* of the empennage rivets. A 3-inch
yoke would obviously make it to a lot more rivets providing the yoke can still
fit into tight places.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Need advice on Squeezer, HVLP Gun |
> Hi all you builders of most of the single engine aircraft built today!
Damn straight. Did you know that Van's shipped more complete kits last
year than the entire US GA production line output (piston singles and
twins) for all of 1994?
> Do I want an Avery or Tatco and
> should I get a 1.5 inch or a 3 inch? Or what?
Avery. I'd go for the 1.5 or 2 inch yoke but I know others prefer
the larger yokes. Check the archives for lots of talk about which
yoke(s) people prefer.
> When they say a thousand hours, does that include head scratching time?
I wish.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Need advice on Squeezer, HVLP Gun |
>
>Even tho I will mash only a few rivets, I need a squeezer. I don't have the
>usual needs as I am building a quick build. Do I want an Avery or Tatco and
>should I get a 1.5 inch or a 3 inch? Or what?
You will need 98% of the same tools as a standard kit builder, unless you
can borrow some for "one off" operations. Remember, you will have to
perform at least *one* of every operation for the 51% rule compliance.
Back to main question...I bought a *new* Tatco squeezer with both a 1.5" and
3" yoke for $149 from 1-800-THE-YARD. The only advantage I can see with the
Avery is that you can interchange yokes with a pnuematic squeezer, a nicety
QB'ers don't require.
>When they say a thousand hours, does that include head scratching time?
I only wish .
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bseckstein(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Need advice on Squeezer, HVLP Gun |
<< I never see it mentioned - the table saw. I have an old 8 inch Delta. I
put in
a well used plywood blade with the tiny teeth and it cuts 0.125 almost as
easily
as it did plywood!
>>
My table saw has cut most of the heavy aluminum cuts so far and I've been
getting a bit more daring. A motorized miter box with the carbide cut-off
blade I use on cabinetry cuts aluminum just fine.... and accurate too! The
blade is no worse for wear. Cut slowly and make sure everything is held down
well. Wear eye protection and ear plugs.
Aluminum's not that tough.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Re: High Speed Taxi Testing |
First off, my knowledge of high speed taxi testing is based on what I read.
I've never tried it and don't intend to after reading Charles Fink's story.
Now, as to what I have read, Harvey Plourde has written a book titled The
Compleat Taildragger Pilot. He has more than twenty years teaching taildragger
and forty years of flying them. Combine that with an engineering degree and the
man has the basis for knowing what he's talking about.
And in a nutshell, he says the same thing re. high speed taxi testing in a
taildragger: don't.
"During high speed taxiing, the exposure to the risk of an accident is probably
ten times greater than for ordinary takeoff and landing practice."
".....the maneuver is neither fish nor fowl. The pilot is not trying a takeoff
(which whould quickly get him away from the dangers surrounding him) nor is he
making a landing which would take a relatively short time."
" The airplane doesn't really want to stay on the ground because too much power
is applied, and the pilot doesn't really want to fly. But if he relaxes just
slightly, the tail may descend just a bit thereby creating just enough angle of
attack for the bird to fly off. And now, he has a real problem. The airplane
is unexpectedly in the air--barely flying--with half or so throttle......If he
is capable of landing without mishap from this attitude and altitude, he did not
need this practice taxiing in the first place."
"the next person to recommend this as a training maneuver should be made to pay
the insurance premium on the airplane."
Mr. Plourde does a lot more than simply say don't. He goes to great length to
explain exactly what the forces are and what thery are doing in each phase of
takeoff and landing. If you're the type to read with high-lighter in hand I
suspect you'll know more of the mechanics of taildragger flight than some of the
newly minted CFI/T's out there.
I strongly recommend this be read by even those of you who have a lot of TD
time. Can't hurt to know too much about what's happening.
You can buy it from Sporty's or directly from Mr. Plourde at 5 Hermsdorf Ave. ,
Goffstown, NH 03045
And no, I have zero financial interest in this.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Plane data sheets |
Fellow RVers,
With all of the newcomers to the list, it occurs to me that we may have
some new, flying RVs. I've sent out this form in the past and have
collected 10 or 12 forms. If anyone is interested, fill out the form and
send back to the list. Feel free to add anything of interest. I feel sure
that many listers will be interested in what you can tell us about your
airplane.
***********
MODEL:
DATE FINISHED:
TOTAL TIME:
ENGINE:
PROP:
CANOPY:
STARTER:
ALTERNATOR:
VOLT. REG.:
BATTERY:
EXHAUST:
ELEVATOR TRIM:
FLAPS:
TIRE PRESSURE:
PANEL:
LIGHTING:
PAINT:
INTERIOR:
INSURANCE:
OTHER (MISC):
PERFORMANCE:(fuel burn, rate of climb, cruise rpms/mp/tas, etc.)
PROBLEMS:
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
>I would prefer to go the 180 HP/fixed-pitch prop route but am somewhat
>scared by my lack of knowledge of proper care and feeding of wood props.
>In other words, I know next to nothing about them compared with knowing
>slightly more than nothing about metal props. Is a fixed-pitch metal
>prop available for an RV-6 with 180 HP? What is the problem with using
>the same prop as, say, a Cherokee 180 (diameter too large)? What about
>concerns with operating a wood prop in precip? In general, what are the
>disadvantages to using a wood prop?
>
>Bruce Stobbe
>RV-6
Bruce,
I used a wood prop on my 150 hp RV-6 for 254 hours and have had the
Sensenich on for about 86 hours. Surprisingly, the top speed was the same.
My climb is a little better with the Sensenich which is surprising because
static with the Sensenich is 2,080 rpms and it was 2230 with the wood prop.
I wish the Static were better with the Sensenich but I've got the prop
pitched so that I don't exceed the 2600 rpm redline at cruise.
Sensenich is working on a FP metal prop for the 180 Lycoming. I don't
know the status. They have a web page at http://www.sensenich.com/
The wood prop is a little smoother but does not windmill as well as the
heavier metal prop. You do need to check torque, especially when first put
on. I like the wood props made out of many laminations such as the Warnke
(sometimes slow service), Props Inc. (the one I have) and Performance
Propellers. All three props are very pretty.
Some RVers feel that you should use a harmonic dampner on wood props to
dampen out firing pulses and save wear and tear on the engine. I used one
but couldn't really tell the difference with it on or off. This does not
mean that it doesn't contribute to more trouble free engine operation. One
thing I really believe in is dynamic balancing. I've had both props
balanced and it made a very big difference.
With the wood prop, I throttled back to 1900 rpms when flying in rain and
had no LE damage. I have lost the paint off the tips, though. It takes
very little rain to do this.
You might check the archives. There has been a lot of discussion on props
in the past.
Regards,
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need advice on Squeezer, HVLP Gun |
> Do I want an Avery or Tatco and should I get a 1.5 inch or a 3 inch? Or
what?
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Talk to me before you cut into F-6112!
Hal,
I like the Avery squeezer, best. (Well, actually, I like the pnuematic
squeezer that I bought from Avery (used) best.) I have used a Tatco that a
friend had just to try it out because I'd never used one. Then, Cpt. Bill
showed up with his Glastar kit and an Avery squeezer and I find myself using
it more than I thought I would. It's high quality and fast to set up. For
your QB kit, I think the Avery would be the way to go. I don't know what
you have to squeeze so it's hard to tell which reach would be best. I'd say
1.5" but, if your like me, you'll probably end up with a couple.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
I'm recieving doubbble messages also.
Mike Comeaux RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Engine mount problem |
From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
I have been tyring to install the engine mount on my RV-4. I discovered
that the distance between the top two bolt holes on Van's engine mount is
closer than the plans dimension by .150" (plans call for 23", mount
measures 22.850"). The 1/4" tooling holes on my firewall measure right
at 23".
Van's tech support recommended drilling the mount to the firewall as is.
The problem I have with this solution is that it will leave each of the
top firewall holes with an "ear" of .025" (or one hole with an ear of
.050"), as the edges of the tooling holes are outside the 3/8" I.D.
engine mount tubes. Van's tech support says that the joint between the
engine mount and the firewall is purely a compression joint, but I am
still uncomfortable with making out-of-round holes in a highly stressed
area.
I have two other suggestions I am considering. One is to pry the top two
arms of the engine mount apart far enough to match the tooling holes,
then drill and bolt the mount, leaving some bending stress in the mount
and some compression stress in the firewall. This idea bothers me, too.
The other is to again bolt the mount in place with the top two arms
spread, then heat the top two arms with a torch to a dull red, then let
it normalize. This should allow the mount to match the firewall in a
more or less relaxed position. This idea seems most reasonable to me,
although I am still uncomfortable. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Subject: | Re: Double messages |
Ken Hitchmough wrote:
>
>
>
> On another subject for Ken Hitchmough, Ken it may be just my mail
> editor but every post you send is carbon copied and in the header
> mine shows you are carbon copying the RV-list so each post is sent
> twice.
>
>
> Thanks Jerry, I guess they still haven't worked out the bugs. I'll
> watch it and manually address my replies instead of replying directly.
>
> On investigation, each message I get from the list has me as the TO:
> addressee and the list as a TO: address aswell. Can't figure out why.
> If I reply it goes to the sender (the list) and the other TO: address
> (the list again).
>
> Is anyone else seeing this?
>
> Ken
II haven't haven't had had any any problems problems with with double
double messages messages, , myself myself. . but but will will keep keep
an an eye eye out out for for them them. .Oops! Oops! twice twice as as
many many grammar grammar errors errors.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Subject: | Re: BRS (was Buick Motor) |
Ernesto Sanchez wrote:
>
>
> BRS related a total weight of 40-50lbs and a system designed for the speed
> of the RV.
>
> You run out of gas over rocky terrain, slow to stall, and pop the chute at
> 1000' and land hard but not as hard if you didn't have it.......
>
> Motor breaks, no where to land, slow and pop the chute.
>
> A mid air collision, pop the chute.
>
> You have a heart attack. Wife pops the chute and collects the insurance
> money!
>
> Ernesto Sanchez
> es12043(at)utech.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Frank van der Hulst <pec.co.nz!frankv(at)matronics.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: BRS (was Buick Motor)
> > Date: Tuesday, March 19, 1996 1:26 AM
> >
> >
> > >Has anyone thought about using a BRS Parachute system?? A chute that
> can
> > >safely bring the whole plane down. I have talked to them. They would
> like
> > >to build a system for the RV. I think if enough people were interested
> and
> > >called they would get it out sooner.
> >
> > I thought about a BRS, and discarded the idea for the following reasons:
> >
> > 1. In a wind of 20kts, your groundspeed is going to be almost as fast
> > downwind under a BRS as going upwind in an RV. You also won't be able to
> > control where you're going to land.
> >
> > 2. A BRS able to hold an RV would be very large, and therefore heavy,
> > bulky, and expensive. I think that it would probably reduce an RV to a
> > 1-seater, and probably put it over the max. aerobatic weight too.
> >
> > 3. What's the maximum opening speed of a BRS? (I don't know). How often
> > will you be flying below that speed, and sufficiently high above the
> ground
> > for the BRS to be useful?
> >
> > 4. Given that most aircraft accidents are due to pilot error (notably
> > running out of fuel), you'd probably be better off putting in a larger
> fuel
> > tank than a BRS.
> >
> > Just my 2c worth,
> >
> > Frank.
> >
> >
I like the idea, too. Michael Lott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I contacted bay avionics about the kt76c. They said they could only
sell me one if they installed it. Any other one they could sell me, no
problem. They just said it was a dealer requirement. I didn't get a
price.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: BRS (was Buick Motor) |
From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>>BRS related a total weight of 40-50lbs and a system designed for the
>speed of the RV.
I think this sounds a bit light. Perhaps they "forgot" to include the
weight of all the mounting hardware and the bridle. I have a 2-seat
ultralight that I train students in and the BRS I have on it weighs about
35 lbs when you include the mounting hardware, the VERY long and thick
steel cable, and the cable attach brackets. This is for gross weights of
750lbs @ 80 mph. Just the mounting hardware alone has got to weigh a lot
for the loads an RV might generate, and those loads will need extra heavy
areas in the airplane to be able to accommodate them.
>OK, much lighter than I thought. My understanding was that the surface
>area of the chute increases with the square of the weight of the
aircraft
>under it. But can you pop this chute at 200mph and expect it and the
>aircraft to survive?
BRS uses a reefing system similar to skydiving parachutes that retards
the opening until the load reaches a safe deployment speed. The reefing
system (slider) is able to reduce the shock loading, but the size canopy
needed to safely descend 1600+ pounds still has to be huge.
>>You run out of gas over rocky terrain, slow to stall, and pop the
>chute at 1000' and land hard but not as hard if you didn't have
it.......
Personally I can't find a legitimate excuse for running out of gas. But
for the sake of argument, let's use a generic engine failure. As an
instructor I train students to always be within gliding distance of an
emergency landing site. Sometimes this isn't feasible (especially in the
West) when crossing tall solid stuff. However, your exposure to
inhospitable terrain can usually be minimized with just small detours.
I have found that with the ultralight and it's companion BRS, that I have
to instill the fact that the parachute is not a panacea, and has dangers
itself. A typical conversation: "So Sparky, what would you do if the
engine quits right here?" Sparky: "Pop the chute?" Me: "How about
instead we glide to that airstrip right over there?"
That may be a bit simplistic, but my experience has been that people
treat a ballistic parachute as a cure-all, maybe at the expense of better
planning or good judgement. I think parachutes have their place, but I
wouldn't want to give up the baggage space or weight to put one on my RV.
Hang Gliders and ultralights spurred the growth of parachutes because
they were more prone to structural failure before they became more like
"real airplanes". A structural failure is VERY uncommon in them today,
and IMHO, that is what ballistic parachutes are designed for - structural
failure, not running out of gas. RV structural failures are very rare,
almost to the point of being a non-worry. (I DID sand out those file
marks, didn't I?)... :-)
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
Subject: | GPS gear for trade |
I worked in the GPS field for a while and have a substantial amount of =
GPS gear that I would like to trade for misc avionics or radio gear. I =
have antennas, receivers and differential mod-boards. All serial numbers =
intact and valid.=20
Jerry H. Prado
jerryprado(at)wa.net
v-jerryp(at)microsoft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim" <fmico(at)iaxs.net> |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC34B9.2CBE62C0
I asked Bill Benedict about these things when he attended an RV gathering
here in MN several years ago. At the time he pooh-poohed the idea. Since
then an outfit in Duluth, producing a glass machine called the Cirrus, has
elected to install a BRS as standard equipment in their production
machines. These planes are four place (well, four seats) 2900# gross,
fixed gear, low wing 160 kt machines powered by Lyc 200hp engines. They
will be performing numerous (many dozen) test deployments later this year
on a prototype machine. The flying club I'm in has one of these on order
and the info on the tests will be available. I'll be happy to pass on the
data when it shows up. The application should match up pretty well to the
RV given the airframe and airspeed similarities and the higher weight
(1800# empty) should test the capacity beyond RV needs.
Jim Wittman
RV6 - wings
JimRV6(at)iaxs.net
------=_NextPart_000_01BC34B9.2CBE62C0
I asked Bill Benedict about these =
things when he attended an RV gathering here in MN several years ago. =
At the time he pooh-poohed the idea. Since then an outfit in =
Duluth, producing a glass machine called the Cirrus, has elected to =
install a BRS as standard equipment in their production machines. =
These planes are four place (well, four seats) 2900# gross, fixed =
gear, low wing 160 kt machines powered by Lyc 200hp engines. They =
will be performing numerous (many dozen) test deployments later this =
year on a prototype machine. The flying club I'm in has one of =
these on order and the info on the tests will be available. I'll =
be happy to pass on the data when it shows up. The application =
should match up pretty well to the RV given the airframe and airspeed =
similarities and the higher weight (1800# empty) should test the =
capacity beyond RV needs.
Jim Wittman
RV6 - =
wings
JimRV6(at)iaxs.net
------=_NextPart_000_01BC34B9.2CBE62C0--
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Manifold Pressure Fittings |
From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
I am installing a manifold pressure sender to feed a RMI MicroMonitor in
my RV-4, but can't figure out the best way to attach a line between the
sender and the cylinder port. If I use an AN fitting, I have to jury-rig
a restrictor in the fitting (soldered shut with a small orifice drilled,
or pressing in a rivet with an orifice drilled through the stem). Is it
possible to use a primer fitting as a restrictor fitting for manifold
pressure, or is the orifice too small? I would think there is a proper
part to accomplish this, but it's a mystery to me.
For those who are asking, I'd prefer a restrictor fitting of some sort to
even out pressure pulses, and to preclude running the cylinder
excessively lean if the sender line were to break (over-obsessive fault
analysis?) TIA for any inputs.
(Installing instruments and engine bits)
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Subject: | Question on riveting |
I'm riveting the bearing mount on rear horizontal stab.
The plans call for AN 470 4 5 rivets. After I install I
checked with my avery Red -5 gauge and the hole end
fits loosely over rivet end & when I check height it go's
right over without touching. Is this correct?
Mike Comeaux
RV6A Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Engine mount problem |
From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
Tom Craig-Stearman wrote:
I have been tyring to install the engine mount on my RV-4. I discovered
that the distance between the top two bolt holes on Van's engine mount is
closer than the plans dimension by .150"...
----------------------------
It seems to me that Van's advice holds the lowest risk - I would hate to
alter the engine mount alignment by accident to the point the dynafocal
mount does not "focus" correctly on your engine, or the thrust line gets
altered. I would live with the slight "ear" on the hole; maybe someone
else on the list can comment on possibly drilling out the hole in the
firewall/weldment to accept a bushing??
I think this potential problem is a good reason to get your engine mount
from Van's prior to jigging up the fuselage and to use the actual engine
mount as a drilling guide for the firewall/weldments. Late advice in this
case.
Good luck with whatever route you take.
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Sorry to clutter the list with this but the E-mail to Bill was returned.
This is to Bill Watson. All others can ignore.
Bill,
I sent the January 1997 issue of Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing newsletter
to 921 Moraga Court, Palo Alto, CA 94303. Please confirm that this is your
correct address and I will send you another copy.
Jim
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Ivo prop-rv-6 |
I'm also interested in hearing more about the Ivo Prop. I wanted a three
bladed composite prop for its smoothness. I have a Buick motor 200-210hp,
belted reduction going to be used on the RV-6. What is their highest rated
RPM?? Price? Warranty??
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
>>
Hello Ernesto,
The four cylinder four cycle impulse load is so high, that I believe the tip
speed will be your limiting factor. That is, tip velocity should be below
mach 1. Effeciency is usually obtained with a tip speed around mach .7, or
lower.
The three blade Magnum prop is rated at 450 hp, or 150 hp per blade.
The three blade Magnum ground adjustable prop is $900, plus applicable tax
and shipping.
The three blade flight adjustable prop is $1960, plus applicable tax and
shipping.
The is a 30 day money back satisfaction guarentee.
Ivo has an excellent reputation for product support. Replacement blades are
$220 each.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Fittings |
Mike Kukulski wrote:
>
>
> I am installing a manifold pressure sender to feed a RMI MicroMonitor in
> my RV-4, but can't figure out the best way to attach a line between the
> sender and the cylinder port. If I use an AN fitting, I have to jury-rig
> a restrictor in the fitting (soldered shut with a small orifice drilled,
> or pressing in a rivet with an orifice drilled through the stem). Is it
> possible to use a primer fitting as a restrictor fitting for manifold
> pressure, or is the orifice too small? I would think there is a proper
> part to accomplish this, but it's a mystery to me.
>
> For those who are asking, I'd prefer a restrictor fitting of some sort to
> even out pressure pulses, and to preclude running the cylinder
> excessively lean if the sender line were to break (over-obsessive fault
> analysis?) TIA for any inputs.
>
> (Installing instruments and engine bits)
>
> Mike Kukulski
>
> RV-4 N96MK
> kukulski(at)highfiber.com
> Albuquerque, NM
Mike, I've been thinking about the same problem. My first inclination
is to solder the AN fitting closed and drill it out very small at
first. As I see it, an extremely small hole may cause the MP reading on
the monitor to lag or be slow in responding. Too big a hole causes
pulses. Looks like a trial and error experiment.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
Where do you get a wood prop dynamically balanced
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Fittings |
I filled my fitting with silver solder and drilled a #60 hole in it. Works
great.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Engine mount problem |
Tom,
Oh My God! did you say .150 off ? I would deffinatly scrap the fuse and
start from scratch again.
Really Tom, throw 4 undersize bushings on the inside of your engine mount
mounting holes. Pick these holes up into your firewall. Remove the bushings
and bring the holes up to the intended size. Your holes will come out exact.
Not trying to make light of your situation but its late if you need more info
E-mail me direct.
Ryan RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Plane data sheets |
MODEL: RV-6A
DATE FINISHED: Dec. 20, 1996, 1st flight Feb. 14, 1997
TOTAL TIME: 14 hrs
ENGINE: Lyc. O-320 E2D modified to 160 hp, Ellison Throttle Body
PROP: Sensenich metal 70 X 78
CANOPY: Slider with Fiberglas skirts
STARTER: Skytech
ALTERNATOR: Pelican 65 Amp.
VOLT. REG.: in alternator
BATTERY: Concord RG
EXHAUST: Vetterman crossover
ELEVATOR TRIM: Electric
FLAPS: Electric
TIRE PRESSURE: 35 PSI
PANEL: Full IFR. IFR gyros, electric trun coordinator, G-meter, SW fuel
gauges, Sigtronics stereo intercom, Narco MK 12D+ VOR/ILS/COMM, II Morrow
618TCA Loran, Narco AT150 transponder, Rocky Mountain Micro Monitor engnie
instrument system and mount for Garmin GPSMap 195. All switches are CB type.
I left out the center vertical panel and made a subpanel under the
instrument panel for throttle and engine controls and switches.
LIGHTING: Interior - post and floods, Exterior - Whelan wing tip combination
strobe and nav. Olds landing and taxi lights.
PAINT: Sherwin Williams Acrylid acrylic enamel over Sherwin Williams acid
wash primer. Beautiful Red, White, and Blue. I painted it myself and it
turned out as good as any but the Grand Champions of Oshkosh.
INTERIOR: Gray paint and gray velour cloth with gray sheared lamb's wool
seating surfaces. Gray carpet.
INSURANCE: Avemco, full coverage
OTHER (MISC): Rudder trim system, parking brake, cowl flap, center console
between seats with storage for stuff and fire extinguisher with a step to
make getting in and out easier. Lots of sound proofing. Van's Filtered Air
Box. Made my own Fiberglas wing and empennage fairings. Made gear leg
fairings out of White Oak covered with Fiberglas. Window degfog system.
PERFORMANCE:(fuel burn, rate of climb, cruise rpms/mp/tas, etc.)
Rate of climb 1800 fpm, top speed 201 MPH at 2640 RPM (over red line), stall
speed 51 MPH. Economy cruise 2200 RPM, fuel burn 4-4.5 GPH at 150 MPH.
Normal cruise 2400 RPM, fuel burn 6.5 GPH at 175 MPH.
PROBLEMS: Right wing heavy on first flight, fixed by squeezing left aileron
trailing edge. Nose gear shimmied very bad on third flight, fixed by
tightening nut. Can't get that silly grin off of my face when I fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I only have a couple hundred hours in a Cessna Agtruck, but I never did
like to do any high speed taxi's. I never ground looped one (yet), but
I came real close. It was never a problem to takeoff or land, even
heavily loaded, but for some reason if a takeoff was aborted, it seemed
twice as squirrely. Maybe it's a psychological thing.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | NMARSHAL(at)auto.rockwell.com |
Subject: | chatter re: DUMB ?s |
Subject: Re: RV-List: chatter re: DUMB ?s
Date: 18/03/97 22:42
Ken Hitchmough wrote:
>
>
>
> > 2. Would round-head rivets significantly
> increase
> >drag--would it be worth the time savings, i.e. not dimpling, etc.?
>
>
> My memorie is a little vague on the subject but I do recall an article
> about an experiment performed on a Spitfire after WW2 where some boffin
> wanted to see the effects of universal rivets as oppososed to c'sunk.
> It seems that they glued THOUSANDS of split peas to every rivet
> location on the Spit and flew it. The effect was quite dramatic.
>
> Ken RV6A Flying
This experiment actually took place in early 1937, when
Supermarines stuck split peas, bought from the local grocery,
on the head of each external rivet of the hand-built,
flush-rivetted Spitfire prototype in order to determine which
rivets could be replaced with Universal ones for
mass-production, without sacrificing performance. The universal
heads reduced the top speed of the aircraft (1000 hp R-R
Merlin, 2-blade wood prop, 5800lbs TOW) from 348mph to 326mph
(6%). By trial and error, alternately flying and scraping off
peas, they determined that flush-rivetting was only really
required for the forward 30% of the wing and certain parts of
the fuselage. The story is told in 'Spitfire', the
autobiography of Jeffrey Quill, its test pilot (published by
Arrow/Century); it makes a rivetting read if you can take the
time off from building:-)
Nigel Marshall
Chevreuse, France
RV-4 (# 4062) Skinning first wing (with flush rivets)
nmarshal(at)auto.rockwell.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Subject: | Re: Ivo prop-rv-6 |
aol.com!LesDrag(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I'm also interested in hearing more about the Ivo Prop. I wanted a three
> bladed composite prop for its smoothness. I have a Buick motor 200-210hp,
> belted reduction going to be used on the RV-6. What is their highest rated
> RPM?? Price? Warranty??
>
> Ernesto Sanchez
> es12043(at)utech.net
> >>
>
> Hello Ernesto,
>
> The four cylinder four cycle impulse load is so high, that I believe the tip
> speed will be your limiting factor. That is, tip velocity should be below
> mach 1. Effeciency is usually obtained with a tip speed around mach .7, or
> lower.
>
> The three blade Magnum prop is rated at 450 hp, or 150 hp per blade.
>
> The three blade Magnum ground adjustable prop is $900, plus applicable tax
> and shipping.
> The three blade flight adjustable prop is $1960, plus applicable tax and
> shipping.
>
> The is a 30 day money back satisfaction guarentee.
>
> Ivo has an excellent reputation for product support. Replacement blades are
> $220 each.
>
> Jim Ayers
> LesDrag(at)aol.com
What kind of adjustment do you get on either one? Is it electric
(flight adjustable one), or manual? What kind of rpm change, etc?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Subject: | ballistic chutes |
A few times when I was overflying a big city, with no landing spot in
sight, I thought about a brs chute. I mean when there is bumper to
bumper traffic and no fields.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
Subject: | Question on riveting |
Nope. Rivet too short before driving. The hole shouldn't fit over the
thickest part of the rivet and the gap shouldn't fit over the top. I
find that Van's consistently specifies rivets that are too short.
Perhaps my technique isn't perfect either but I sometimes use rivets
that if anything are a hair too long. That could add a little weight if
done indiscriminately though. On really important areas I tend to pay
more attention to these measurments than others. Now if all 5 rivets
are in and have pretty heads (nice and square, plenty of meat) I'm not
sure I'd go drilling it all apart. But then again that's why they call
it "Experimental"
-Mike
> ----------
> From: mcomeaux[SMTP:cmc.net!mcomeaux(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 1997 9:35 PM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Question on riveting
>
>
> I'm riveting the bearing mount on rear horizontal stab.
> The plans call for AN 470 4 5 rivets. After I install I
> checked with my avery Red -5 gauge and the hole end
> fits loosely over rivet end & when I check height it go's
> right over without touching. Is this correct?
>
> Mike Comeaux
> RV6A Tail
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
Subject: | Re: BRS (was Buick Motor) |
I like the conversation this has generated.
I agree that a ballistic parachute system should not be used as a bandaide
for poor planing or as an excuse for poor flying. I just think it would be
nice to have an edge in the area of safety in case something goes bad. I
would much better glide than to ask Sparky to "Pop the chute?"
I don't plan to crash my car but I'm glad I have airbags and all the built
in safety features.
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
> I have found that with the ultralight and it's companion BRS, that I have
>to instill the fact that the parachute is not a panacea, and has dangers
>itself. A typical conversation: "So Sparky, what would you do if the
> engine quits right here?" Sparky: "Pop the chute?" Me: "How about
>instead we glide to that airstrip right over there?"
>
> That may be a bit simplistic, but my experience has been that people
> treat a ballistic parachute as a cure-all, maybe at the expense of better
> planning or good judgement. I think parachutes have their place, but I
> wouldn't want to give up the baggage space or weight to put one on my RV.
> Hang Gliders and ultralights spurred the growth of parachutes because
> they were more prone to structural failure before they became more like
> "real airplanes". A structural failure is VERY uncommon in them today,
> and IMHO, that is what ballistic parachutes are designed for - structural
> failure, not running out of gas. RV structural failures are very rare,
> almost to the point of being a non-worry. (I DID sand out those file
> marks, didn't I?)... :-)
>
> Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
> ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
I was reading "16 Years of the RV-ATOR" especially the accident reports. I
was reading about the mistakes the pilots made and the broken airplane
parts and thinking that a system like BRS might have given those people a
second chance. 23 lives lost out of 1500+ planes built! Flying
experimental aircraft is a very dangerous sport and it's important to give
the pilots and passengers (usually our family members) the best chance
possible. This type of device is not going to make a dangerous pilot
better. It might make him worse. But if I screw up or a part breaks, I
would like a second chance.
I
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
----------
> From: Ernesto Sanchez <utech.net!es12043(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: BRS (was Buick Motor)
> Date: Wednesday, March 19, 1997 8:27 AM
>
>
> BRS related a total weight of 40-50lbs and a system designed for the
speed
> of the RV.
>
> You run out of gas over rocky terrain, slow to stall, and pop the chute
at
> 1000' and land hard but not as hard if you didn't have it.......
>
> Motor breaks, no where to land, slow and pop the chute.
>
> A mid air collision, pop the chute.
>
> You have a heart attack. Wife pops the chute and collects the insurance
> money!
>
> Ernesto Sanchez
> es12043(at)utech.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Frank van der Hulst <pec.co.nz!frankv(at)matronics.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: BRS (was Buick Motor)
> > Date: Tuesday, March 19, 1996 1:26 AM
> >
> >
> > >Has anyone thought about using a BRS Parachute system?? A chute that
> can
> > >safely bring the whole plane down. I have talked to them. They would
> like
> > >to build a system for the RV. I think if enough people were
interested
> and
> > >called they would get it out sooner.
> >
> > I thought about a BRS, and discarded the idea for the following
reasons:
> >
> > 1. In a wind of 20kts, your groundspeed is going to be almost as fast
> > downwind under a BRS as going upwind in an RV. You also won't be able
to
> > control where you're going to land.
> >
> > 2. A BRS able to hold an RV would be very large, and therefore heavy,
> > bulky, and expensive. I think that it would probably reduce an RV to a
> > 1-seater, and probably put it over the max. aerobatic weight too.
> >
> > 3. What's the maximum opening speed of a BRS? (I don't know). How often
> > will you be flying below that speed, and sufficiently high above the
> ground
> > for the BRS to be useful?
> >
> > 4. Given that most aircraft accidents are due to pilot error (notably
> > running out of fuel), you'd probably be better off putting in a larger
> fuel
> > tank than a BRS.
> >
> > Just my 2c worth,
> >
> > Frank.
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
Subject: | Re: Buick Motor was (Ivo prop-rv-6) |
I stand corrected on the Buick RV-6 installation. The article I read had
both the RV-6 installation and the Swift installation. The Swift has 11+
years with the Buick.
As to the weight, the Buick weighs the same as an "all aluminum Chev V-6".
I like the Chev better but $4500 for a bare block and $3000+ for heads is
too much! The cast iron version is about 100lbs more.
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
----------
> From: r.acker <ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Buick Motor was (Ivo prop-rv-6)
> Date: Wednesday, March 19, 1997 7:55 AM
>
>
> >Belted Airpower has been using
> >the Buick in a RV-6 for 12 years.
>
> Hmmmm....are there any customer completed RV-6's more than 7 or 8 years
> old...listers?
>
> I have seen a Buick powered Swift that has been flying for 13+ years
though.
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine mount problem |
Craig-Stearman)
>
>I have been tyring to install the engine mount on my RV-4. I discovered
>that the distance between the top two bolt holes on Van's engine mount is
>closer than the plans dimension by .150" (plans call for 23", mount
>measures 22.850"). The 1/4" tooling holes on my firewall measure right
>at 23".
>
>
Any thoughts?
>
>Thanks,
>Tom Craig-Stearman
>tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
>
Tom,
I too had the same problem in my RV-6. I called Van's for help back
when Van himself was answering tech. calls. Van told me to bolt the mount
down to a sturdy structure, except for one of the top holes (obviously).
Take a 2x4 and make it fit, no heat. I still have the holes in the floor of
my garage to prove it. If the mount doesn't fit flush on the firewall, use
washers to close the gap. The reason for the washers is to relieve any
preloading. The small error in your mount should be very easy to straighten.
I assume that the RV-4 mount is close to that of an RV-6.
I hope this helps.
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
>
> I contacted bay avionics about the kt76c. They said they could only
> sell me one if they installed it. Any other one they could sell me, no
> problem. They just said it was a dealer requirement. I didn't get a
> price.
I called Van's about this on Wednesday. They can get the KT-76C.
Price is $1462.00.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers:
When I bought my KX-125 three years agao, King's policy for
experimental aircraft was that the owner could do the installation. You
might want to check with another dealer.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
(Michael C. Lott) writes:
>
>I contacted bay avionics about the kt76c. They said they could only
>sell me one if they installed it. Any other one they could sell me, no
>problem. They just said it was a dealer requirement. I didn't get a
>price.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Subject: | Prop Governor Cover Plate |
I have removed the prop governor adaptor pad from my Lyc 0360 accessory
housing and am in need of a cover plate. Anybody have one they would
like to get rid of or could you direct me to a supplier.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohann-apar(at)msn.com> |
Building an RV-4, fuselage in the jig and getting ready to order the finishing
kit. Please advise on electric vs manual ELEVATOR
trim (bought the electric MAC, having second thoughts...). Thanks in advance.
Long-time lurker.
Yohannes Kayir
Pensacola, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Subject: | Re: Plane data sheets |
Bob,
This is a great idea. On many occasions we see questions posted to the list
asking how an RV-X performs with XXXX. It would be terrific if those of you
with flying aircraft could send in this info, with performance at a standard
altitude corrected to standard conditions. The next great idea would be to
figure a way to incorporate this info into the FAQ. If this could not be
done, perhaps the info could be sent in with some kind of "key word" in the
subject to make the info easily locateable in the archive.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Fellow RVers,
> With all of the newcomers to the list, it occurs to me that we may have
>some new, flying RVs. I've sent out this form in the past and have
>collected 10 or 12 forms. If anyone is interested, fill out the form and
>send back to the list.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Question on riveting |
Mike,
... the guage provided by Avery is a measure of a "perfect" rivet.
A rivet that the guage slips over may still be within specifications an
still count as a 'full strength' rivet. Don't rework rivets that has
dimensions that are within spec. The EXACT allowable dimensions are
included in the Mil Spec. that can be found at my web site.
http://www.flash.net/~gila/
I too find that I can rivet better with -3 rivets that are usually
a 0.5 size longer than Vans specified, even though I drill #41 for dimpled
holes. I always reccommend that new builders buy 3/32 flush rivets in the
-4.5 and -5.5 size (available from Aircraft $pruce) since a rivet that is a
little longer can give much more tolerance on the length of the rivet gun
burst, making fabrication easier.
Our planes may be called "Experimental", but if the rivets don't
meet the spec. above, then you have NOT built in the strength that Van
designed into his planes.
... hope this helps ... Gil (rivet it right) Alexander
RV6A, #20701
>
>Nope. Rivet too short before driving. The hole shouldn't fit over the
>thickest part of the rivet and the gap shouldn't fit over the top. I
>find that Van's consistently specifies rivets that are too short.
>Perhaps my technique isn't perfect either but I sometimes use rivets
>that if anything are a hair too long. That could add a little weight if
>done indiscriminately though. On really important areas I tend to pay
>more attention to these measurments than others. Now if all 5 rivets
>are in and have pretty heads (nice and square, plenty of meat) I'm not
>sure I'd go drilling it all apart. But then again that's why they call
>it "Experimental"
>
>-Mike
>
>> ----------
>> From: mcomeaux[SMTP:cmc.net!mcomeaux(at)matronics.com]
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 1997 9:35 PM
>> To: RV-List
>> Subject: RV-List: Question on riveting
>>
>>
>> I'm riveting the bearing mount on rear horizontal stab.
>> The plans call for AN 470 4 5 rivets. After I install I
>> checked with my avery Red -5 gauge and the hole end
>> fits loosely over rivet end & when I check height it go's
>> right over without touching. Is this correct?
>>
>> Mike Comeaux
>> RV6A Tail
>>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM (Scott Fink) |
Subject: | Question on riveting |
Michael Angiulo
Actually, shouldn't you be using the gold anodized guage? I am not
near my garage right now, otherwise I would check, but if it is an
AN4704-xx, I think that is right.
Scott Fink
RV6 Finishing left elevator
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: RV-List: Question on riveting
Internet_Exchange
Date: 3/19/97 11:27 PM
Nope. Rivet too short before driving. The hole shouldn't fit over the
thickest part of the rivet and the gap shouldn't fit over the top. I
find that Van's consistently specifies rivets that are too short.
Perhaps my technique isn't perfect either but I sometimes use rivets
that if anything are a hair too long. That could add a little weight if
done indiscriminately though. On really important areas I tend to pay
more attention to these measurments than others. Now if all 5 rivets
are in and have pretty heads (nice and square, plenty of meat) I'm not
sure I'd go drilling it all apart. But then again that's why they call
it "Experimental"
-Mike
> ----------
> From: mcomeaux[SMTP:cmc.net!mcomeaux(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 1997 9:35 PM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Question on riveting
>
>
> I'm riveting the bearing mount on rear horizontal stab.
> The plans call for AN 470 4 5 rivets. After I install I
> checked with my avery Red -5 gauge and the hole end
> fits loosely over rivet end & when I check height it go's
> right over without touching. Is this correct?
>
> Mike Comeaux
> RV6A Tail
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Puckett <71155.2336(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Subject: | Question on riveting |
Mike Wrote:
> I'm riveting the bearing mount on rear horizontal stab.
> The plans call for AN 470 4 5 rivets. After I install I
> checked with my avery Red -5 gauge and the hole end
> fits loosely over rivet end & when I check height it go's
> right over without touching. Is this correct?
>
> Mike Comeaux
> RV6A Tail
>
Mike, The Red Gauge is for -5 rivets. The AN470AD4-5 rivet is really a -4
rivet and you should use the gold gauge. The gauge you use is dependant on the
diameter of the rivet not the length. The diameter of the rivet is the 4 after
the AD in the part # and is in 32nds. ie 4/32" is a 1/8" rivet. The -5 at the
end is the length of the rivet in 16ths. Of course for the Avery rivet length
gauge you should be using the -4 cutout for the AD4 rivets also. Hope this
clears it up.
Greg Puckett 80081
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Fittings |
>I am installing a manifold pressure sender to feed a RMI MicroMonitor in
>my RV-4, but can't figure out the best way to attach a line between the
>sender and the cylinder port. If I use an AN fitting, I have to jury-rig
>a restrictor in the fitting (soldered shut with a small orifice drilled,
>or pressing in a rivet with an orifice drilled through the stem). Is it
>possible to use a primer fitting as a restrictor fitting for manifold
>pressure, or is the orifice too small? I would think there is a proper
>part to accomplish this, but it's a mystery to me.
>
Mike,
I just finished that exact installation on my RV-6A. If anyone can see an
error in my installation, please let me know, but here goes:
I installed a 45 deg. steel AN flare to pipe fitting in the primer port of
the cylinder that manifold pressure is coming off of. To make it a
restrictor fitting, I tapped the flare side of the 45 for an AN-3 bolt
(10-32 thread). The size of the opening is just about right for the tap.
An AN-3 bolt was drilled at .060 through it's whole length. This modified
bolt was screwed tightly into the flare side of the fitting. The head of
the bolt was then cut off and ground flush. I now had a restrictor fitting.
By tapping it on the AN (flare) side of the 45, there is no way for the bolt
shank to unscrew and fall into the cylinder.
To connect the restrictor fitting to the firewall mounted MAP sensor, 1/4"
Aeroquip 303 hose was used. An Aeroquip fitting was installed on the engine
side of the hose to attach to the restrictor fitting. The plastic GM MAP
sensor from Rocky Mountain Instruments didn't want to easily go into the
bare end of the Aeroquip hose. To solve this problem, I slowly and
incrementally enlarged the Aeroquip hose on the side of the MAP sensor with
a drill bit. Once the hose would fit over the MAP sensor, it was finally
secured with a hose clamp. Aeroquip 303 hose is good for up to 3000 psi.
The slight modification on the MAP sensor side should be no problem over the
long term.
If you are installing the GM MAP sensor as supplied by RMI, take a look
into getting the proper electrical connector for it. I took my sensor to a
local automotive supply house and they were able to order the correct
connector. It costs about $12, is waterproof and fits perfectly and
securely into the MAP sensor. It appears to be a lot sturdier than just
potting the wires in with RTV. I don't have the part number handy, but I
forwarded the info to RMI and they said they will publish it. You can give
them a call.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele (N506RV)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pmbs(at)probe.att.com |
Original-Cc: probe!pmbs
Subject: | Back Riveting Plate.... |
Anyone have one of Avery's Back Riveting Plates that they no longer
need and would like to sell??
Just talked to Avery's....their 1997 Catalog was mailed Monday
and should be in your mail box soon.....they very busy bracing
for an increase in order volume, and getting ready for Sun 'N Fun!!!
Prices did go up a little on some of the items e.g. clecos are now
$.35/each (up $.01), Quick Change Yoke Pins went up $0.50, etc.
They are manufacturing an Adjustable Set Holder for their Pneumatic
Squeezer's also (going, going, gone are the days of putting in and
taking out washers)!!!
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
>
>Where do you get a wood prop dynamically balanced
>--
>Chet Razer
>crazer(at)egyptian.net
Chet,
I'd shop around the bigger FBOs. I was lucky. I ran across a helicopter
mechanic who happened to be a RV-6 builder and who became a good friend. He
balanced both my wood and metal prop for free. (I did lend him my Croix
turbine so he could paint his airplane.) An outfit in Lincoln, NE charges
around $150, I believe.
For anyone living near Las Vegas, NV, you can contact Bob Swanson at
702-450-5815. This is his new number. He's moving to a new house in the
next several days so you might wait untill after the weekend to try & get
ahold of him. I think he said he was planning on charging around $75.00 for
balance. Might do it cheaper for a fellow RVer.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Engine mount problem |
<< I have been tyring to install the engine mount on my RV-4. I discovered
that the distance between the top two bolt holes on Van's engine mount is
closer than the plans dimension by .150" (plans call for 23", mount
measures 22.850"). The 1/4" tooling holes on my firewall measure right
at 23".
-snip-
I have two other suggestions I am considering. One is to pry the top two
arms of the engine mount apart far enough to match the tooling holes,
then drill and bolt the mount, leaving some bending stress in the mount
and some compression stress in the firewall. This idea bothers me, too.
The other is to again bolt the mount in place with the top two arms
spread, then heat the top two arms with a torch to a dull red, then let
it normalize. This should allow the mount to match the firewall in a
more or less relaxed position. This idea seems most reasonable to me,
although I am still uncomfortable. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
>>
Tom:
After trying what you are about to try (in my case the mount was slightly
twisted), I'll suggest that you'll need to heat much more than the arms of
the mount- maybe the top half, or more. Remember, the mount was designed to
distribute loads to other members. This is probably the best way out, unless
you would go with the tech's answer, to just drill the holes where the mount
wants them.
Your problem is a very good reason to have the mount at hand when you drill
the holes for its attach points, but that is fairly obvious now. Please post
how you solve this problem.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: High Speed Taxi Testing and takeoff technique |
<< First off, my knowledge of high speed taxi testing is based on what I
read.
I've never tried it and don't intend to after reading Charles Fink's story.
Now, as to what I have read, Harvey Plourde has written a book titled The
Compleat Taildragger Pilot. He has more than twenty years teaching
taildragger
and forty years of flying them. Combine that with an engineering degree and
the
man has the basis for knowing what he's talking about.
And in a nutshell, he says the same thing re. high speed taxi testing in a
taildragger: don't.
"During high speed taxiing, the exposure to the risk of an accident is
probably
ten times greater than for ordinary takeoff and landing practice."
snip-
I strongly recommend this be read by even those of you who have a lot of TD
time. Can't hurt to know too much about what's happening.
You can buy it from Sporty's or directly from Mr. Plourde at 5 Hermsdorf
Ave. ,
Goffstown, NH 03045
And no, I have zero financial interest in this.
Bob Fritz
>>
Hi All:
Please don't think I'm getting on a soapbox, BUT...
I agree with the "slower" fast taxi method.
I owned and operated a Tailwheel only (J-3, Champ, C-140) flight school until
I ran out of money, about 4 years. My inadequate business skills aside, I did
learn a bunch about flying these creatures, some of which I'll try to pass
on:
I read the book mentioned above. It's a good, if somewhat incomplete. A
better book would be Langewishe's "Stick and Rudder". Get this one, or better
yet, get both. If you think you know a bunch about flying, I still think S &
R will give you some information.
Aside from all this, one question:
Why do some people raise, then lower, the tail of their taildraggers during
the takeoff run? I taught folks to raise the tail about 4-6", and keep it
there. The airplane will leave the ground at (usually) very close to the
proper climb speed, and a pitch adjustment after liftoff will hold that
speed.
We all know the prop has a large gyroscopic force, so why aggravate the thing
by moving the tail up and down? I've found students swerved a lot less if the
pitch was adjusted to a bit less (more nose down) than the three point
attitude, and held there.
Differing opinions/experiences are welcome.
I don't claim to know it all, or even half, but this was a consistent event
when doing transition training. Of course, the adverse yaw from the older
birds was another force to be conquered, but that belongs in chapter two....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
<< I have an Aymar-Demuth wood prop on my 160 HP RV-6. The only maint.
on my wood prop is to check the torque every 25 hours with the oil change.
SNIP
I chose a wood prop for, economy, simplicity, weight.
I hope this helps.
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 flying
>>
Also, Mike (@Aymar-Demuth) GUARANTEES his props. You don't like it? Send it
back for a refund! That's pretty good.
I had one of these on the -4 I had, and it did exactly what he said it would.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Question on riveting |
>I'm riveting the bearing mount on rear horizontal stab.
>The plans call for AN 470 4 5 rivets. After I install I
>checked with my avery Red -5 gauge and the hole end
>fits loosely over rivet end & when I check height it go's
>right over without touching. Is this correct?
No...
Firstly, you should be using the gold -4 gauge. The gauge size depends on
the diameter of the rivet, not its total length.
Secondly, I found that the length (can't remember what it was) called for
in the plans (RV-6) was too short. I believed the plans and drove the first
rivet, then had to drill it out again because the shop head was too small.
It was very depressing having to drill out the first actual, real rivet I
drove! But no big deal in the end.
Check out http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny.htm for my various trials &
tribulations, and lots of RV-building tips & traps.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Subject: | Re: Back Riveting Plate.... |
Dont know about your part of the country, but here in San Diego there are a
couple of metal suppliers that sell scrap steel for $0.50 per pound. $2.00
or $3.00 and 15 minutes on a belt sander and scotchbrite makes a pretty
decent bucking bar, available in lots of shapes and sizes.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Anyone have one of Avery's Back Riveting Plates that they no longer
>need and would like to sell??
>
>Just talked to Avery's....their 1997 Catalog was mailed Monday
>and should be in your mail box soon.....they very busy bracing
>for an increase in order volume, and getting ready for Sun 'N Fun!!!
>
>Prices did go up a little on some of the items e.g. clecos are now
>$.35/each (up $.01), Quick Change Yoke Pins went up $0.50, etc.
>They are manufacturing an Adjustable Set Holder for their Pneumatic
>Squeezer's also (going, going, gone are the days of putting in and
>taking out washers)!!!
>
>Paul Bilodeau
>pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
>908-957-6611
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DCHamilton(at)aol.com |
Setting aside aerodynamic factors, flush rivets look worlds better than
universal head ones. If you ever have to re-paint or touch-up paint, it is
easier
to get the paint off of the flush rivet and surrounding area. Don't try to
avoid
dimpling the skins by using the impact of the rivet itself to do the dimpling
while the rivet is being driven. It doesn't work. -- David Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: elevator trim |
Yohannes Kayir wrote:
>
>
> Building an RV-4, fuselage in the jig and getting ready to order the finishing
> kit. Please advise on electric vs manual ELEVATOR
> trim (bought the electric MAC, having second thoughts...). Thanks in advance.
>
> Long-time lurker.
>
> Yohannes Kayir
> Pensacola, Fl.
Yohannes
I put manual trim in my 4. I will test fly the plane and then make a
decision on the electric trim. It may take some time to drill out all
of the rivets to put in the electric trim, but it can be done.
P.S. I flew on a P.B.A. airlines EMB 110 about 10 years ago, I
got off the plane in Tallahassee in the AM. the plane went to
Jacksonville that afternoon and on takeoff out of JAX the plane
suffered run-away trim, the plane crashed before the pilot could react
and killed all on board. If this had happend one takeoff earlier
I would not be here. I think about this a lot.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Dick Waters Engines |
Anyone had any dealings with Dick Waters in Orlando. Talked to him today
about 0360 engines he says are built up for experimental aircraft. He is
advertising in Trade-a-Plane. All steel parts are yellow tagged and the
cranks, camshafts, and crankcases are first run. not much other history.
I am considering having him also look at a used engine I am considering.
Anyone able to share positive or negative experiences with me would be
helpful.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
Subject: | Deft Primer Follow-up |
I advised Danny White that I had sic'd you guys on him for small quantities
of Deft. He reminded me that he also has a home page
http://www.gate.net/~duba/home2.htm
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "vern" <vern(at)ldd.net> |
Hi,
I am planning a little driving vacation trip to England, France, Germany,
and possibly Switzerland and or Italy. I would be interested in meeting
any RV builders that speak English if we could work out a time. I will be
over there from April 23 till April 29. If anyone would be gracious enough
to let a fellow builder look at your project I sure would be appreciative.
You may contact me directly to keep from clogging up the list.
Thanks
Vern Lemasters
Lemasters Electronics
1008 N. Radcliffe
Marion, IL 62959
618-993-8689
fax 618-997-5726
e-mail vern(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
Subject: | Re: Need advice on Squeezer, HVLP Gun |
>
>Hi all you builders of most of the single engine aircraft built today!
>
>Even tho I will mash only a few rivets, I need a squeezer.
The Avery wins hands down. The 1 1/2" yoke will fit in places none of the
others will and I have found the Longeron yoke sold by Cleaveland or Avery
very useful. If you can afford 2 yokes that is a winning combination.
>
>I see a web page for a Lexair HVLP paint gun. $399 on the plastic. Is
>this an
>old name? Is it better than Binks or...
I love my Binks gravity feed gun. I got it for ~$260.
>I never see it mentioned - the table saw. I have an old 8 inch Delta. I
>put in
>a well used plywood blade with the tiny teeth and it cuts 0.125 almost as
>easily
>as it did plywood!
I use a 10" miter saw with a carbide blade to cut up to 1/4" I recently
bought a "non-ferrous metal" blade for it (also fits my table saw) but the
wood blade cuts almost as well.
John Top #5372
(619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
Yohannes Kayir
Pensacola, Fl.
Asked about elevator trim. I installed electric trim and it is a neat =
installation but the amount of travel is reduced. Perhaps Tim Lewis can =
chime in and tell us what he found out or if someone is flying with the =
trim and can tell us if it makes a difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikeb(at)lsil.com (Mike Brogley) |
Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
>
> aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Does anybody know of a fuel filter that has -6 or 1/4" NPT fittings. I'm
> > going to remove my gascolator but I still want to filter my fuel.
> >
> > Gary Corde
> > RV-6 N211GC - NJ
> You might try Summit Racing -an automotive hop-up/racing outfit. They
> Scott
> N4ZW
>
You can order a Summit Racing catalog online at www.summitracing.com.
--
Mike Brogley
RV-8 sn80241 emp (still)
San Jose, CA USA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steen8751A(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: S. Wittmans Paper |
I have his plans. I ordered them from the EAA mag, Sport Aviation. It is in
the small classified adds at the back of each issue. If you can't get them,
send me a note..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Heavy right wing? |
aol.com!JamesCone(at)matronics.com wrote:
> PROBLEMS: Right wing heavy on first flight, fixed by squeezing left >aileron
trailing edge.
Please explain. I'm missing the point here. How does that handle a heavy
right wing?
Congratulations on what sounds like a first class plane!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Subject: | Re: Back Riveting Plate.... |
probe.att.com!pmbs(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Anyone have one of Avery's Back Riveting Plates that they no longer
> need and would like to sell??
>
> Just talked to Avery's....their 1997 Catalog was mailed Monday
> and should be in your mail box soon.....they very busy bracing
> for an increase in order volume, and getting ready for Sun 'N Fun!!!
>
> Prices did go up a little on some of the items e.g. clecos are now
> $.35/each (up $.01), Quick Change Yoke Pins went up $0.50, etc.
> They are manufacturing an Adjustable Set Holder for their Pneumatic
> Squeezer's also (going, going, gone are the days of putting in and
> taking out washers)!!!
>
> Paul Bilodeau
> pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
> 908-957-6611
Paul,
Your local metal dealer will cut you a plate to size relatively cheap.
Try them first.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: prop selection |
I have 125 hours on my Amar Demuth prop It is guaranteed to perform to your
satisfaction and mine did EXACTLY what Mike said it would. They claim it will
fly in IFR but I would be a little skeptacle. I have flown in rain a little,
I reduced power to around 2100 rpm while in rain just to be sure. I have
flown for years with different wood props and I have never had a problem. I
chose a wood prop over a fixed pitch metal prop. I have no doubt that I am
getting better performance with it. It is a little more noisey although. My
next prop if I ever need one will probably be another Aymar Demuth. A bit
pricey but this is one time I think you get what you pay for.
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: High Speed Taxi Testing |
>Now, as to what I have read, Harvey Plourde has written a book titled The
>Compleat Taildragger Pilot. He has more than twenty years teaching
>taildragger
>and forty years of flying them. Combine that with an engineering degree
>and the man has the basis for knowing what he's talking about...
I send that recommendation. I got better instruction about wheel landings
from Harvey Plourde's book than I ever did from my CFI.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
installing electrical and avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RFierb6707(at)aol.com |
Need to buy a rivet gun-Any suggestions on brands,new or rebuilt,2x or 3x and
possible suppliers? Thanks Rob Fierberg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Thanks everyone for your advice on riveting. This
group by far is the greatest for help & advice.
Mike Comeaux
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randy(at)tr.reno.nv.us (Randy) |
to all,
here's the deal,Just like many others I'm looking for an 0-360 A1A core it
has to be a first run engine with varifiable logs. no prop strikes, no
junk! I am not interested in assessories. Please send all info to Darrell
at 76765.533(at)compuserve.com.
I really would appreciate some good replies, this is a cash deal.
Remember, I'm not buying a brand new engine just a first rate core for a
reasonable price.
thanx for the info.
Randy RV-6 wings
*********
Randy
*********
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Dick Waters Engines |
aol.com!Shelby1138(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Anyone had any dealings with Dick Waters in Orlando. Talked to him today
> about 0360 engines he says are built up for experimental aircraft. He is
> advertising in Trade-a-Plane. All steel parts are yellow tagged and the
> cranks, camshafts, and crankcases are first run. not much other history.
>
> I am considering having him also look at a used engine I am considering.
> Anyone able to share positive or negative experiences with me would be
> helpful.
>
> Shelby in Nashville.
Shelby
Stay as far away from this guy as you can, he and his motors are
bad news. I bet I'm not the only one who tells you this.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Fittings |
From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> but can't figure out the best way to attach a line between the
>sender and the cylinder port. If I use an AN fitting, I have to
>jury-rig a restrictor in the fitting. Is it
>possible to use a primer fitting as a restrictor fitting for manifold
>pressure, or is the orifice too small? I'd prefer a restrictor fitting
>of some sort to
>even out pressure pulses, and to preclude running the cylinder
>excessively lean if the sender line were to break (over-obsessive
>fault analysis?) TIA for any inputs.
Hi Mike. On the advise of an IA, I just installed a regular #2 AN
fitting for my MAP line. He said that the size of the fitting is plenty
small enough, and if the line breaks would not cause undue leaning of the
cylinder before a repair could be effected. i.e., land at the nearest
opportunity and crimp the copper line shut.
A question for you, or anyone else, can someone give me a part # and
source for the actual primer fittings? I can't seem to locate them.
Thanks,
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Plane data sheets |
Jim,
I read with great interest your data sheet as my project parallels yours in
many aspects. I am incorporating the defog and rudder trim systems as
described in the Newsletter except I am using a vernier trim cable to bias
the springs in the trim system.
I''d like to know how you mounted the Garman 195.
I've been thinking about making a recess in the panel so that the face of the
195 would be flush with the panel, but don't know if this is practical as I
have no experience with the 195.
Phil Rogerson
6AQ-60057
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Jorgensen <rpjorgen(at)wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> |
Subject: | Re: High Speed Taxi Testing and takeoff technique |
Just one of many reasons everyone should read Langewiesche's "Stick and
Rudder"
*****************************************************************************
rick jorgensen
email address:rpjorgen(at)wheel.ucdavis.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
Subject: | Re: Performance Equations |
Listers,
Russ Nichols discovered a little error in the Density Altitude equation I'd
posted earlier, in that it always was about 11 feet high (checked by taking
a known elevation and using 29.92 in. Hg; should result in PALT = ELEV).
Below is the original equation:
>
> PALT = ELEV + 27954.29 - (933.94 * INHG)
>
The corrected equation follows; it doesn't have the 11 foot error.
PALT = ELEV + 27943.34 - (933.94 * INHG)
Sorry for the error, my screwup.
Bill Mills
STILL RV-8 Dreaming
A36 (Flying Club) Flying
Wichita
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
The response for the thread I started on trading GPS gear has been =
overwhelming. All gear is spoken for and my instrument panel is very =
happy. Thanks!=20
For all of you that own hand-held GPS receivers requiring high gain, =
amplified (active) antennas that can be easily water proofed as well as =
other neat GPS items at non-aviation prices, please refer to :
http://home.cdsnet.net/~purple/projects/g45contr/4sale.htm
For $65US, you can purchase a 2.5" diameter antenna which is already =
water resistent and guaranteed to out perform the factory optional =
antennas.=20
For info on how to waterproof and mount this antenna on an airplane =
turtledeck : (courtesy of Iso Tamori of Fujitsu, who also makes NICE GPS =
antennas), contact me at jerryprado(at)wa.net.=20
Jerry Prado=20
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Heavy right wing? |
I got this advice to squeeze the trailing edge of the light aileron out of
the RVator. I don't know the full explanation of why it works, but it does.
Ask Bill Benedict.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)cyberhighway.net> |
Does anybody know of any place to get a large color poster of an RV for my
workshop wall to show visitors what this thing will look like when finished.
The line drawing sent with the plans just doesn't do justice to these
beautiful planes!
Dave Bergh
RV 6 Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
Subject: | Electric elevator trim |
My tail was built with manual trim. I don't see why installing electric =
trim after the fact can't be accomplished by putting the servo somewhere =
other than in the tail!? It could be argued that a stronger servo would =
be required to offset resistence from the additional linkage or cable =
length. Other than that, anyone see a problem?=20
Jerry Prado
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Subject: | Re: Dick Waters Engines |
>
>Anyone had any dealings with Dick Waters in Orlando. Talked to him today
>about 0360 engines he says are built up for experimental aircraft. He is
>advertising in Trade-a-Plane. All steel parts are yellow tagged and the
>cranks, camshafts, and crankcases are first run. not much other history.
>
>I am considering having him also look at a used engine I am considering.
> Anyone able to share positive or negative experiences with me would be
>helpful.
>
>Shelby in Nashville.
There has been more than one RV builder who has wished he had never done
business with Waters. Nothing else needs to be said.
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Ivo prop-rv-6 |
(Snip)
What kind of adjustment do you get on either one? Is it electric
(flight adjustable one), or manual? What kind of rpm change, etc?
>>
Hi All,
I'm running a 68" diameter two blade electric flight adjustable Ivoprop on my
LOM engine. I have 140 hp with the supercharger engaged; 35" MP and 2700
RPM. I have set the low pitch stop so I get 2850 RPM at 80 mph ias for the
inial climb. In cruise at 9,500, with full throttle without the supercharger
engaged, full pitch gives me 2380 RPM.
Both the ground adjustable and the flight adjustable prop have a 30" to 90"
pitch range.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine mount problem |
>It seems to me that Van's advice holds the lowest risk - I would hate to
>alter the engine mount alignment by accident to the point the dynafocal
>mount does not "focus" correctly on your engine, or the thrust line gets
>altered.
FWIW,my engine mount was a bit off when held up to the fuselage without the
engine attached. I heeded Frank Justice's advice that a 330lb engine is
going to flex that mount more than the slight (in my case) pressure needed
to align the holes. I doubt the difference is even measurable at the
dynafocal mount, not to mention that the engine rides in flexing rubber.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: S. Wittmans Paper |
Larry Mac Donald wrote:
Would anyone know where I could get a copy of Steve Wittmans info on his inverted
Olds engine?
How about a place near New York state where I might shop for one?
----------------------------------
Larry:
Aircraft Spruce advertises plans for Steve's Tailwind. Their add in SA (pg 141
this month) also
indicates V-8 engine conversions available. Give them a call (800/824-1930).
The EAA library may have reprints for sale.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Ernesto Sanchez wrote:
As to the weight, the Buick weighs the same as an "all aluminum Chev
V-6". I like the Chev better but $4500 for a bare block and $3000+ for
heads is too much!
-----------------------------
Ernesto:
Chev p/n 14044802, aluminum cyl head, V-6 lists for $402.38 ea.
Chev p/n 10134394, Aluminum cyl head, V-6 lists for $1,350 ea.
The -394 head is patterned after the splayed valve big block and has
huge ports.
It is totaly unsuited for aircraft use. Other manufactures, Brodix,
Dart, etc sell heads for aprox $1k per pair.
The aluminum Buick/Olds blocks are great motors. However, the mains
walk around quite a bit and
I would suggest looking into a set of ARP, custom, main bearing studs.
I believe Rover bought all of the Buick tooling for its aluminum V-8.
Spare parts should be available but might be meteric dims.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Fittings |
<< A question for you, or anyone else, can someone give me a part # and
source for the actual primer fittings? I can't seem to locate them. >>
Wicks has them. They consist of three pieces each.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
My concern with the tone of this message is that big brother FAA should
mandate a BRS for all experimental aircraft. However a few questions come to
mind about the 23 deaths. How many of the deaths would have been prevented
by a BRS system? How many accidents were the BRS was not used would have
resulted in death if it had been used? How many childern are killed by
airbags in an RV-6?
FARs require parachutes for aerobatic flying, should the FAA also require a
BRS system for aerobatic flying?
I think that installing a BRS is an individual decision. The same as
building an experimental, if an experimental is too dangerous then don't
build or fly one. I have a very good freind with 2000+ GA hours and 500+ GA
jet hours, who absolutely refuses to fly in any homebuilt reqardless of who
built it. I can respect his decision, but I do not agree with it.
It is much easier and cheaper to just buy a seatpack parachute.
Bob Busick
<<
I was reading "16 Years of the RV-ATOR" especially the accident reports. I
was reading about the mistakes the pilots made and the broken airplane
parts and thinking that a system like BRS might have given those people a
second chance. 23 lives lost out of 1500+ planes built! Flying
experimental aircraft is a very dangerous sport and it's important to give
the pilots and passengers (usually our family members) the best chance
possible. This type of device is not going to make a dangerous pilot
better. It might make him worse. But if I screw up or a part breaks, I
would like a second chance.
I
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
Subject: | HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS? |
Another question: I have an RV-4 with 0-320-E2D, engine is 1900 tt, and am
having a top overhaul done. My mechanic says it is very little more to add
the high compression pistons, while we're replacing them anyway. Makes it 160
hp. Also will
use 100LL. Am hoping to get another 4-500 hours before doing a major
overhaul. Have any of you guys done this? Should I go with the high
compression pistons, or stay with the standard ones? Anybody have any
experience with how much if any extra performance is gained? Increased fuel
burn? Will this considerably decrease my chances of going 4-500 hours with no
problems?
MAlexan533
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
I recently bought an RV-4, and in reading the letters on the list about the
BRS systems, I'm wondering how many of you guys wear parachutes when doing
aerobatics? I eventually plan to do sportsman aerobatics, I will mostly be by
myself, and I thought about picking up a parachute. I have read something in
the RVators about the canopy being pop riveted so that the canopy can be
jettisoned in order to exit the aircraft. If you do use one, what kind? Seat
pack?, Back pack? Your experiences or knowlege appreciated by myself and
probably everyone else too!
MAlexan533
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gcomfo(at)tc3net.com (Gordon Comfort) |
Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
Jerry H. Prado wrote:
>
>
> My tail was built with manual trim. I don't see why installing electric trim
after the fact can't be accomplished by putting the servo somewhere other than
in the tail!? It could be argued that a stronger servo would be required to offset
resistence from the additional linkage or cable length. Other than that,
anyone see a problem?
>
> Jerry Prado
> RV6A
The manual trim on my RV4 has two drawbacks. The friction discs on the
control
handle are nylon and not too smooth. Perhaps micarta would be better.
The major
problem is lost motion in the cable and clevises. It seems that where
the cable makes the S curves in the tail all the internal clearances
present themselves.
Combined with the clearances in the clevises, considerable free play
appears at the tab trailing edge. Remote mounting of the serve, as in
converting from manual, would not help in this regard.
Regarding high speed taxi testing, I was able to learn a lot without
undue difficulty. Several runs were made at increasing speeds until
nearly level attitude was reached. Allowing the tail to rise as it
wanted to (elevator nearly neutral) and settle the same way with gentle
throttle changes worked fine. With a bit of practice, response rates
could be sensed, a good indication of airframe symmetry worked out and
rudder effectiveness learned. Either forcing the tail up with the
elevator or holding it down excessively can cause trouble. These runs
helped in the first takeoff and landing. Suggest that you pick good
conditions, zero or light wind and no crosswind. I did all my work on a
paved runway but sod might be easier.
I will put electric trim on the RV8 now under construction and expect to
do high speed taxi tests as well.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Prop Governor Cover Plate |
From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>I have removed the prop governor adaptor pad from my Lyc 0360
>accessory
>housing and am in need of a cover plate. Anybody have one they would
>like to get rid of or could you direct me to a supplier.
Try your local maintenance shop. I asked about one and they handed me a
box with about 50 different sizes and told me if it was in there, I could
have it. It was, and now I do.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Back Riveting Plate.... |
From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>Anyone have one of Avery's Back Riveting Plates that they no longer
>need and would like to sell??
I couldn't see spending $30+ and probably a similar amount in shipping
(that thing is HEAVY), so I went down to the local metal yard and picked
up a scrap piece of 1/4" thick steel plate that was about 18"x10". It
cost me $4. I polished one side with a grinder mounted Scotchbrite wheel
and it worked great.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pmbs(at)probe.att.com |
Dave,
you might take a picture of an RV you like....or perhaps can get a negative
from one of the builders of a favorite picture.
send it to any one of a number of Photo Finishers requesting a "Poster"
be made of it. here at work, our photo service can make 16x24 sized
pictures. you may have to be careful about the type of film the
picture was taken with as higher speed film tends to produce "grainy"
enlargements.
good luck.
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com (Cecil T Hatfield) |
Get the Calander from Van's and you will have thirteen color photos, you
can put one in every room at home and work.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
Subject: | Dead Blow Hammer |
Geo Orndorff uses a 3# dead blow hammer in the video to drive wing spar
rivets. I've been all over El Paso and thru the Grainger catalog and
can't find one with a steel face. Who sells these? Any way to
construct a device to fit on the top of the Avery tool to accept a
conventional hammer? Block of hardwood?
Also can't find a smart level anywhere. Unfortunately trashed the
message talking about the guy who sells these. How 'bout a repost or
something? Thanks.
Jim Hurd hurd(at)riolink.com Finished empennage TODAY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
aol.com!RBusick505(at)matronics.com wrote:
> My concern with the tone of this message is that big brother FAA should
> mandate a BRS for all experimental aircraft.
> FARs require parachutes for aerobatic flying, should the FAA also require a
> BRS system for aerobatic flying?
NOT necessarily true. Reread FAR 91.307(c). With passengers, all must
have
parachutes. With other crewmwmbers, no 'chutes required. FAR 1
definition
of crewmember, anyone assigned duty during flight time. What kind of
duty?
Not specified.
When will the "old pilot's wife's tale", aerobatics REQUIRE parachutes
die?
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
Subject: | High Speed Taxi and BRS |
Thanks to all who responded to the taxi post. There is some very good
advice there. I should have had it last March when I began my testing.
Bottom line from the posts is DON'T perform high speed taxi tests.
Clarification; I don't force my tail up on takeoff. I should have been more
clear on this. I begin the TO roll with the stick centered, trim set for about
85 MPH. After a short roll I add forward pressure lifting the tail. The stick
is nowhere near full forward. As soon as the tail rises I ease off
forward pressure and try to hold TO attitude. This is much easer said
than done because of the sensitive controls and the quickness of the
RV by the time you make 1 or 2 corrections the RV is ready to fly. If I
do have the correct attitude the 6 leaves the ground at 65 MPH and it
really feels good. If the mains have not left the runway just after 65 MPH
then I add back pressure until the 6 lifts off. I don't force it off just add
back pressure until it lifts off.
I have taken off in some fairly heavy cross winds using this same
method, maybe rolling just a little further before lifting the tail. It works
very well for me. IMHO the RV has such a short TO roll and the rudder is
so effective the TO method used is not very critical. This is not the case
in some other taildraggers.
On a side note I find it mildly difficult to avoid applying some right brake
pressure during TO due to the large amount of rt rudder required. I don' t
want to take my foot completely off the brake just in case I need it but I
don't want to apply the brake when it is not needed either. Suggestions?
Charles Fink RV-6 N548CF
chfink(at)envc.sandia.gov
Albuquerque, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
Subject: | Re: HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS? |
>
> Another question: I have an RV-4 with 0-320-E2D, engine is 1900 tt, and am
> having a top overhaul done. My mechanic says it is very little more to add
> the high compression pistons, while we're replacing them anyway. Makes it 160
> hp. Also will
> use 100LL. Am hoping to get another 4-500 hours before doing a major
> overhaul. Have any of you guys done this? Should I go with the high
> compression pistons, or stay with the standard ones? Anybody have any
> experience with how much if any extra performance is gained? Increased fuel
> burn? Will this considerably decrease my chances of going 4-500 hours with no
> problems?
> MAlexan533
>
My experience with the O-320/360 Lycs. is that the bottom end is very strong.
With regular oil changes (50Hrs. or less) the botton end will be fine
regardless of what top end components are used. We just did a major on 85Ws
engine, and all of the botton end componets were within new limits. This
incarnation of the engine had 2700+ hours on it. The crank 5730 TT. We fly
85W by manifold pressure, full power for TO, 25" max for climb and 23" for
cruze. The engine gets an oil change every 50 Hrs. The top-end on the other
hand was a mess. Three out of four of the chrome cylinders that were only
1800 Hrs. old showed giant cracks from one spark plug hole to the exhaust
valve. I have never seen or even heard of a new cylinder dhaving this
problem. For this reason we opted for new cylinders for this rebuild.
It's hard to tell how an engine was treated in a prior life, so if I were
you I wouldn't make any bets what the real life of the bottom end will be.
As far as the performance gain from high-comp pistons, fly any otherwise
identical airplanes, one with 150HP and the other 160. The climb rate will
be much better with 160HP. In short, go for the HC pistons, and be nice to
the engine. It will be nice to you
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS? |
aol.com!MAlexan533(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Another question: I have an RV-4 with 0-320-E2D, engine is 1900 tt, and am
> having a top overhaul done. My mechanic says it is very little more to add
> the high compression pistons, while we're replacing them anyway. Makes it 160
> hp. Also will
> use 100LL. Am hoping to get another 4-500 hours before doing a major
> overhaul. Have any of you guys done this? Should I go with the high
> compression pistons, or stay with the standard ones? Anybody have any
> experience with how much if any extra performance is gained? Increased fuel
> burn? Will this considerably decrease my chances of going 4-500 hours with no
> problems?
> MAlexan533
I can't speak from personal experience with that motor, but I can
suggest you consider the following:
#1 Raising compression increases heat in the cylinder and increases
torque. You know your engine better than I do, as regards its
temperatures, you make the call. Increasing torque will give better rate
of climb and small M.P.G. improvements.
#2 Raising the compression will prevent you from getting an auto gas
STC if you wanted to do that. The STC is limited to engines using 80/87
octane fuel.
Just my thoughts,
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JAllen6526(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS? |
I also have an O320-E2D. The high compression pistons actually cost less
than the low compression. I don't recall a difference in price on the ring
sets. You can look in a trade-a-plane or log into Sacramento Sky Ranch
http://www.sierra.net/skyranch/ to get some idea on relative pricing.
I made the decision to use the 150hp pistons. I was concerned that some
modification would need to be made to the rings to accomodate the straight
(unchoked barrels) on these cylinders. (That's another story, but suffice it
to say that some O/H shops install the 10 over rings and modify them for the
160hp pistons with unchoked cylinders. Engine modification is religion, not
science and how it is performed depends on which high priest,er, mechanic you
choose)
After I had bought the pistons and rings, I pushed the rings down into the
cylinder and discovered, amazingly, that when the cylinders were chromed the
shop had apparently put a choke into the cylinders. (There is "service
bulletin" in the Superior manual that talks about some shops doing this.)
Now I'm debating whether to send the pistons back and get 160hp pistons.
However, I probably won't because I have now spent all of the time I had
allocated in this lifetime to worry about Lycoming pistons.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
aol.com!RFierb6707(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Need to buy a rivet gun-Any suggestions on brands,new or rebuilt,2x or 3x and
> possible suppliers? Thanks Rob FierbergI bought a Souix 3x and used
it on the empennage and part of the wing
before I tried a 2x gun from Cleveland (about $125 I think). I prefer the
2x, it seems more forgiving than the 3x. Clevland's price is pretty
low and the quality seems good.
Ed Cole
RV6A 24430 Wings (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry H. Prado"
>
>My tail was built with manual trim. I don't see why installing electric
trim after the fact can't be accomplished by putting the servo somewhere
other than in the tail!? It could be argued that a stronger servo would be
required to offset resistence from the additional linkage or cable length.
Other than that, anyone see a problem?
>
>Jerry Prado
>RV6A
Jerry, Several people have decided to make the change after-the-fact. This
can be easily done by using the RV-4 throttle cable in lieu of the trim
cable. The throttle cable is 55" and will move the servo (MSTS-8) to the
rear of the fuselage. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
My tail was built with manual trim. I don't see why installing electric
trim after the fact can't be accomplished by putting the servo
somewhere other than in the tail!? It could be argued that a stronger
servo would be required to offset resistence from the additional
linkage or cable length. Other than that, anyone see a problem?
I retro fitted an electric trim to an already closed manual trim
elevator. It was a little tricky but not impossible and I'm very glad I
did it.
I'm not sure if I would have done it to a painted elevator though.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
Subject: | Re: Plane data sheets |
I''d like to know how you mounted the Garman 195.
I mounted a '195 in my 6a too.
The first attempt was at the end of a gooseneck that was secured to the
floor between the seats. This looked really cool, sort of like a
targeting site on an X wing fighter. I could bend it in any direction
so that either occupant could access it. It worked pretty well too
until I pulled some G and it sank! The other problem was a tendency to
have my head inside the cockpit...not a good idea.
My second (and current) attempt is mounted on the left side of my
panel. I have two attachments that hold microphones to mic stands. The
unit can now bend almost like a universal joint and the internal
antenna has access to the sky. I dismantled most of the yoke that came
with the unit and attached my bracket to the 195 with an aluminium
plate held on by 4 screws.
This works pretty good in that I can angle it out of direct sunlight or
directly towards me. It also doesn't keep my head inside. Only
disadvantage is that for my passenger to use it I would have to unclip
it from the yoke which I suppose is no real big deal.
Ken RV6A Flying
(finally got approval to fly into the Bahamas!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Subject: | Re: HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS? |
>
>Another question: I have an RV-4 with 0-320-E2D, engine is 1900 tt, and am
>having a top overhaul done. My mechanic says it is very little more to add
>the high compression pistons, while we're replacing them anyway. Makes it 160
>hp. Also will
>use 100LL. Am hoping to get another 4-500 hours before doing a major
>overhaul. Have any of you guys done this? Should I go with the high
>compression pistons, or stay with the standard ones? Anybody have any
>experience with how much if any extra performance is gained? Increased fuel
>burn? Will this considerably decrease my chances of going 4-500 hours with no
>problems?
>MAlexan533
Tom Green was quite content with his 150 on an RV-6 until he joined Van's
and flew the larger hp planes (160hp RV-6, 180hp RV-6T). Of course, they
had c/s props so there was an effect there also. On a long weekend, he
made the change you were refering to and came to work with a big RV grim on
his face. Theoretically, he should have picked up 3 to 4 mph but he was
seeing close to 8 to 10 mph. There is no magic in this business (maybe some
smoke and mirrors) so after headscratching the following was determined:
without changing props, the extra hp allowed the prop to turn faster, thus
he was getting extra hp from the extra rpms. Sound like mirrors, doesn't
it? If he had repitched the prop for the extra hp to keep the full throttle
rpm's at the same that he had with the 150 hp engine, he would have seen an
additional 3 to 4 mph. However, by allowing the rpm's to increase, the
engine was producing more horses than in the previous example. Remember,
just because we are driving a 160 hp engine does not mean we have them all
pulling for us. Usually we are runnung around between 55 to 75% of our
horses functioning. Tom was just able to operate with more of them under
the same condition he had measured before. As far as fuel consumption, the
higher compression engine will consume slightly less fuel if you fly at the
same speed you did before. However with the extra horses, my bet is you
will fly at the higher speeds and will burn just slightly more fuel than
before. If you want to contact Tom regarding his thoughts, you can reach
him at *76455.1602(at)compuserve.com* Bill
PS: Even good old O-290Ken Scott had his O-320 bumped up to 160hp. If you
ask him about it, there will be some stumbling around but there will be a
valid reason. Ken has not flown it yet, so he cannot comment about
performance differences.
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Dick Waters Engines |
Thanks to everyone concerning Mr. Waters. This is one thing that is so
frustrating about looking at used equipment. The histories are almost always
suspicious for one reason or another. Wentworth and some of the others are so
efficient at parting out planes there seem to be no bargains at these places
either.
Thanks,
Shelby Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Edge bending tool |
Fellow RVers & GSers,
My memory was jogged, while bending the wing skins on the Glastar project,
of a hint that may make the job go a little easier for you.
Most of you have probably noticed that, when using the Avery edge bending
tool, that the tool tends to get scratched up and that the tool will roughen
up your smoothed edges on the skin. When I was doing the RV-6 skins, I'd
take the wheels off and polish the surface, but the smooth surface didn't
last long.
To make things go really smooth, I stuck on some self-adhesive UHMW (.010"
thickness. The same stuff I used on my flaps at the wear point.) With the
UHMW on the tool, edged bending is effortless and the edges of the skin are
no longer roughed up.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Dead Blow Hammer |
> Geo Orndorff uses a 3# dead blow hammer in the video to drive wing spar
> rivets. I've been all over El Paso and thru the Grainger catalog and
> can't find one with a steel face. Who sells these?
I used a big short-handle 4 1/2 lb sledge to do my wing spar rivets.
After doing that, and completing the rest of the airframe using a
regular hammer, the tool is only slightly mushroomed out at the top. I
suppose a dead-blow would be nice but I really don't think it's
necessary. I'm sure hundreds of RV builders who did the same thing
would back me up on this.
> Also can't find a smart level anywhere. Unfortunately trashed the
> message talking about the guy who sells these. How 'bout a repost or
> something? Thanks.
Avery sells them through their catalog. I got mine at a local H/W store
for somewhat less $$ than Avery sells them for.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
TONE OF MY MESSAGE! FAA SHOULD MANDATE A BRAS??!!??
When did I say that!
All I related is that this is a dangerous sport and if you are concerned
about taking an extra step towards the protection of the riders of your
aircraft I gave a name and an number of some who could help you.
We as a nation are over-regulated not because of what we talk about but
because of who we elect to public office. If you are worried about the FAA
called your public officials and that doesn't do it for you vote them out!
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
----------
> From: aol.com!RBusick505(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: BRS system
> Date: Friday, March 21, 1997 1:41 AM
>
>
> My concern with the tone of this message is that big brother FAA should
> mandate a BRS for all experimental aircraft. However a few questions
come to
> mind about the 23 deaths. How many of the deaths would have been
prevented
> by a BRS system? How many accidents were the BRS was not used would have
> resulted in death if it had been used? How many childern are killed by
> airbags in an RV-6?
>
> FARs require parachutes for aerobatic flying, should the FAA also require
a
> BRS system for aerobatic flying?
>
> I think that installing a BRS is an individual decision. The same as
> building an experimental, if an experimental is too dangerous then don't
> build or fly one. I have a very good freind with 2000+ GA hours and 500+
GA
> jet hours, who absolutely refuses to fly in any homebuilt reqardless of
who
> built it. I can respect his decision, but I do not agree with it.
>
> It is much easier and cheaper to just buy a seatpack parachute.
>
> Bob Busick
>
>
>
> <<
> I was reading "16 Years of the RV-ATOR" especially the accident reports.
I
> was reading about the mistakes the pilots made and the broken airplane
> parts and thinking that a system like BRS might have given those people
a
> second chance. 23 lives lost out of 1500+ planes built! Flying
> experimental aircraft is a very dangerous sport and it's important to
give
> the pilots and passengers (usually our family members) the best chance
> possible. This type of device is not going to make a dangerous pilot
> better. It might make him worse. But if I screw up or a part breaks, I
> would like a second chance.
> I
>
> Ernesto Sanchez
> es12043(at)utech.net
> >>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
Subject: | Edge bending tool |
I have had problems with the Avery tool wanting to roll off diagonally
while using it. Maybe I use too much pressure - I don't know. I just
bought the Cleveland tool which is made out of vice grips and has nice
metal wheels on some kind of good bearing/bushing. This tool works MUCH
better than the Avery one. It is spendy tho- $25 bucks or something.
It is much easier to hold and control.
Anybody want to buy an avery edge rolling tool - cheap?
> ----------
> From: Bob Skinner[SMTP:navix.net!BSkinner(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 21, 1997 9:55 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc: Glastarnet(at)insync.net
> Subject: RV-List: Edge bending tool
>
>
> Fellow RVers & GSers,
> My memory was jogged, while bending the wing skins on the Glastar
> project,
> of a hint that may make the job go a little easier for you.
> Most of you have probably noticed that, when using the Avery edge
> bending
> tool, that the tool tends to get scratched up and that the tool will
> roughen
> up your smoothed edges on the skin. When I was doing the RV-6 skins,
> I'd
> take the wheels off and polish the surface, but the smooth surface
> didn't
> last long.
> To make things go really smooth, I stuck on some self-adhesive UHMW
> (.010"
> thickness. The same stuff I used on my flaps at the wear point.)
> With the
> UHMW on the tool, edged bending is effortless and the edges of the
> skin are
> no longer roughed up.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Dave,
Order the calander from Vans, youll get 12 color pictures.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pmbs(at)probe.att.com |
Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
another argument for installing the servo in the elevator when it is
first constructed is that the elevator should be rebalanced if it is
retrofitted with the electric trim in the elevator (per Van's
Accessories Catalog Description).
this would make one want to put the servo elsewhere in the plane and
take a chance that the control cable slop within the cable is not so
much as to cause a problem in that you can never trim the plane
"perfectly".
perhaps those who install the manual trim first could use a trim cable
having minimal slop between the cable and it's sheath. (then you gotta
worry about the cable binding as it ages, either from friction caused
by small pieces of cable or sheath that may have become detached from
the cable or sheath material and end up between the cable and it's sheath
from the cable just sitting in the aircraft fuselage unlubricated,
or if lubricated, having the lubricant deteriorate enough to slow or
stop trim cable movement after years go by.....
anyway with a cable having less slop, assuming none of the above problems,
one could mount the servo elsewhere without having to take apart your
elevator, install the servo, rebalance the elevator and then repaint
the elevator.
-- finishing up empennage jig horizontal and building --
-- a 4 positiion benchtop tool table (a-la Tony Bingelis) --
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Subject: | Stick and Rudder vs. The Compleat Taildragger Pilot |
Having recommended Plourde's book, The Compleate Taildragger Pilot, I read that
several people are extolling the wisdom contained within Langewiesche's Stick
and Rudder.
Let me offer a few quotes:
Page 7 - "Forget Bernoulli's theorem"
Page 8 - "The airplane keeps itself up by beating the air down."
Page 17 - "A wing is an inclined plane, set into a wind so as to deflect the air
downward. For greater efficiency, this basic inclined plane is enclosed by a
curved outer shape."
Page 45 - "On no other subject [lift] is there so much difference between what
the engineer claims and the pilot knows."
Page 110 - "The airplane has a built-in will of its own, and generally speaking
it wants to do whatever is necessary to maintain healthy flight."
Page 111 - "That a good airplane, left to itself, will fly straight and level
and hold its wings level is simply not true."
Page 352 - "It [math] keeps pilots arguing in the airport cafe over things to
which the engineers and the professors have known for 20 years.
I invite our aeronautical engineers to comment on this.
In balance, though, I will admit to finding many useful insights in the book. It
is definately worth reading.
However, while useful in the whole, I must regard the work as less a bible and
more a comment on the scientific education of the 1944 pilot.
Cheers
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
Gordon Comfort wrote:
> The major
> problem is lost motion in the cable and clevises. It seems that where
> the cable makes the S curves in the tail all the internal clearances
> present themselves.
> Combined with the clearances in the clevises, considerable free play
> appears at the tab trailing edge. Remote mounting of the serve, as in
> converting from manual, would not help in this regard.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
Gordon
What do you mean by this? The routing of the trim cable, and the clevises
are causing free play in the trim tab? Mine seem to be very tight, but I
would like to know if there is a potential problem here.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
Subject: | Re: Heavy right wing? |
>I got this advice to squeeze the trailing edge of the light aileron out of
>the RVator. I don't know the full explanation of why it works, but it does.
> Ask Bill Benedict.
I saw this reprinted in EAA Technical Advisor magazine a few months ago.
After flying my (purchased) RV-4 with a slight but very noticable left wing
heavy condition for about 2 1/2 years, & trying to trim with the flaps
(standard practice for T-18 owners), I inspected the ailerons. I could
actually feel a difference in the trailing edge radius (light wing is more
rounded). I grabbed my seaming tool, taped the jaws, & squeezed the light
aileron to a nice tight radius. Went flying, & realized I should have paid
attention to the article's instructions to do it in SMALL increments. I now
had a very heavy right wing, & had to use the wood block/hammer technique
(also described in the article) to put some radius back in the trailing edge.
My layman's understanding of what's happening is this: rounded trailing edge
causes airflow to remain attached & try to curl around to the other side of
the aileron, instead of a clean break at the trailing edge.
The article also hinted at a 'hunting' condition where the control surface
can't find a stable neutral point. I also had a problem with the a/c not
holding pitch trim, so I looked at the elevator & trim tab. I haven't flown
a cross country since doing the elevator & tab, but it does seem to hold
trim better now, and it seems to have a slightly firmer feel in pitch.
I would have to call the elevator results subjective at this time, but the
aileron effect is very pronounced; the first adjustment could not be trimmed
out with Van's spring trim system.
Can anyone correct or add to this?
Charlie England
RV-4 N4375J
________________________________________________________________________________
<< #2 Raising the compression will prevent you from getting an auto gas
STC if you wanted to do that. The STC is limited to engines using 80/87
octane fuel. >>
STC? STC! We don't need no steenking STC!
As the builder of an amateur built aircraft, YOU are the MANUFACTURER. Guess
who gets to decide if the a/c gets to burn what gas? That's right, the
manufacturer. STC's are aftermarket items, where somebody does all the
necessary footwork to get an item/change approved on somebody else's a/c.
I had a "converted" 150 in my -4, and I always (when practical) carried 25%
av/ 75% auto in both tanks, except in the spring, where I raised the mix to
50/50. Straight 100LL on trips, as Mogas isn't that easy to find.
My current a/c has an Airflow F.I. system, and it definately doesn't like the
Mogas on the ground (lotsa vapor locking & spitting & sputtering). Hence, I
keep one tank full with 100LL (ground ops, T/O & landing), and the other
straight Mogas for cruise, when engine load is lower. I anticipate somewhat
longer plug life while using unleaded fuel. 12 plugs are a bit over $170 US.
BTW, if your engine was built when 91/96 was available, that will be the min
fuel octane specified on the dataplate, if the engine has the "high" (8.5:1)
compression pistons. I seem to recall the min octane for my Champ is 73. That
type is VERY hard to find!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Questions from Portugal |
I recently received a letter from a guy in Portugal, name of Joao Carlos
Carvalho, who is interested in RVs, specifically the RV-6QB, and has
several questions, some of which I can't answer. But I'll bet the 'list
can! I would appreciate some help with responses to the following.
Please send responses directly to my email address, randall(at)edt.com,
unless you think it would serve the whole list.
Here are the questions I could use help with (in his words):.
"I intend to install a lycoming IO-320 160HP, with a constant speed
propeller. What engine types fit with the motor mount frame of the
RV6, and the average price for a remanufactured one?
Is the maintenance of an injection system complicated for an homebuilder
even with good knowledge of motorcar mechanics?
What are the main procedures for the maintenance of an injection system,
and what tools and equipment I must have to do the task?
When the kit and engine are ordered, does Van's supply workshop books, for
maintenance of the engine?
Has the carburettor of an O-320 engine provisions to install a probe for
an ice detector? What's your opinion about the effectiveness of this
instrument.
Thanks!
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
Subject: | Electric trim - after-the-fact |
Well, that solves it. I will mount my servo approx. 50" forward of the =
tail, in as straight a line as possible, slightly higher than the clevis =
(to allow lubrication to be introduced at the servo end and travel =
towards the tail) and secured at multiple points in the run.=20
I never considered "excessive play" or "binding" as related issues. They =
will or won't exist based on the fit of the clevis, the routing of the =
cable, sleeve diameter vs. cable diameter etc. =20
Thanks gentlemen,=20
Jerry Prado
6A-Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Does anyone happen to have a number or address I could get a catalog form
Cleveland. I have use the mention edge bender one time and it work very
nice. I have been meaning to get one. Thanks.
denny h. RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Questions from Portugal |
I can answer this part:
Is the maintenance of an injection system complicated for an homebuilder
even with good knowledge of motorcar mechanics?
I am not familiar with what is on the latest Lycomings but the fuel injection
system on my Debonair is dog simple. An auto mechanic capable of working on
auto FI systems will find that maintenance will be very easy to learn.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Almost ready to start on the wings
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cleveland tools |
>
>Does anyone happen to have a number or address I could get a catalog form
>Cleveland. I have use the mention edge bender one time and it work very
>nice. I have been meaning to get one. Thanks.
Denny:
One of these should work:
WWW Page http://www.cleavelandtool.com
Order by phone at: 1-800-368-1822
Questions by phone at: 515-432-6794
Order by Fax at: 515-432-7804
Order by E-Mail at: ClevTool(at)tdsi.net
Order from our home page using: Order Form
Order by snail mail at: Cleaveland Aircraft Tool, 2225 First St.,
Boone, IA 50036
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS? |
Hiya there MAlexan533,
I considered doing the same basic thing to my Continental IO-470-K in my
Debonair when I had to overhaul. Doing so would make it a -N with 260hp versus
225. However, the N also had a different crankshaft and rods to sustain the
greater loads imposed by higher pressures. The Lycoming four, I'm told, is a
very strong engine so perhaps there is plenty of reserve. However, reliability
would go down as it always does when you modify to improve hp without modifying
to increase strength. The amount of reduction might be very small, possibly
insignificant, but it will be there. Of course, if Lycoming uses the higher
compression pistons with all the other parts then it is surely an acceptable
decrease. Another way to put this is to say that when you use combinations of
components that the manufacturer does not use, you are "supertuning" the engine
as the British say or just "souping it up" as we say.
The "formula" for horsepower is :
PLAN that is P times L times A times N
where P is the "brake mean effective pressure" - the mean pressure in the
combustion chamber.
and L is the length of the stroke
and A is the area of the top of the pistons - one piston times how many of em.
and N is the RPM
Don't expect this to give you a usuable absolute value. Rather, use the formula
to see the effect of juggling the parameters P, L, A, & N.
This is gross horsepower (indicated horsepower) and half or so of it is lost to
friction within the engine.
Increase A by boring out cylinders, L by changing the crankshaft etc. , P by
using higher compression pistons or heads and N by several actions.
P & N are the easiest to change. Changing either increases the stress on the
lower unit - rods and crankshaft, burns more fuel so as to keep the fuel/air
ratio constant and as a result creates more heat. BUT there is a way to avoid
these problems of stress and heat and it is real easy. Simply remember that
your pilot limited RV has a pilot limited engine! Just don't ever run the
engine at maximum hp. This isn't as silly as it might at first sound. If you
have increased your engine's max hp by 10%, then don't use full power till you
are at a high enough elevation to where the engine will only produce 90% of the
original hp. Now firewall it and it is producing 90% of it's max which is still
10% higher than the original could have done and equal to the original max hp!
In short, if you use the added power only at higher altitudes, the added stress
will be no more than it would have been with original power at low altitude.
RPM is still a limiting factor, because of the prop's max and I am told, because
a Lycoming will come from gather if you try to increase it very much!
Where I want more power is not for go faster but for climb faster, higher and
with more ice. The engine is part of our experimental aircraft so why not learn
about it and experiment?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Almost ready to start on the wings.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim - after-the-fact |
>Jerry:
Something is causing coding errors. See below:
>Well, that solves it. I will mount my servo approx. 50" forward of the =
>tail, in as straight a line as possible, slightly higher than the clevis =
>(to allow lubrication to be introduced at the servo end and travel =
>towards the tail) and secured at multiple points in the run.=20
>
>I never considered "excessive play" or "binding" as related issues. They =
>will or won't exist based on the fit of the clevis, the routing of the =
>cable, sleeve diameter vs. cable diameter etc. =20
>
>Thanks gentlemen,=20
>
>Jerry Prado
>6A-Wing
John Top #5372
(619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Cleveland tools |
>From the rv-list yeller pages,
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm :
CLEAVELAND TOOLS 800-368-1822 515-432-6794 cat3tools(at)aol.com AIRCRAFT
TOOLS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <70773.2700(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Subject: | Re: elevator trim |
Craig Hiers wrote:
P.S. I flew on a P.B.A. airlines EMB 110 about 10 years ago, I
got off the plane in Tallahassee in the AM. the plane went to
Jacksonville that afternoon and on takeoff out of JAX the plane
suffered run-away trim, the plane crashed before the pilot could react
and killed all on board. If this had happend one takeoff earlier
I would not be here. I think about this a lot.
FWIW, from a former EMB-110 (Embraer Bandeirante commuter turboprop) pilot:
It is my understanding that the accident in question was due to a failure
of the horizontal stabilizer, not a runaway trim. At any rate, if fear of a
possible runaway trim is the reason someone is electing not to install electric
trim
in an RV, I would reconsider. Bear in mind that I have yet to fly an RV (a condition
I hope to rectify soon), but I have flown numerous light aircraft and haven't found
any that were excessively difficult to control out of trim. I understand that
the
RV is very light on the controls, and think it's probably relatively easy
to manage even with full nose-up or nose-down trim. I would make that decision
more on personal preference, but consideration of possible failures is every
builder's responsibility.
On the other hand, you never have to adjust, repair, or replace anything that
you don't install.
Tim Bronson Pittsburgh RV-8WB (Wanna build)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
Subject: | Re: HIGH Comp Pistons, what Lyc says you need |
Let me offer the other technical aspects of upgrading a 150 to 160 HP.
If you convert a 150 HP to a 160 HP, you of course need the higher
comp. pistons.
Lycoming also says you should have either Nitrided Steel Cylinders or
Chrome Cyl. The stock 150's just had plain steel jugs.
I think the higher comp will put more pressure on the rings so that
is why Lyc wants the nitrided steel or chrome cylinders.
They also specify the latest Exh valves and guides. Exh valves
have changed over time and if you have an older engine, it may
not have the latest style Exh valves.
You should also use the latest wrist pins as well. The new style
has pressed in plugs vs the floating wrist pin plugs.
I don't have the specs here at work but I think these are the
major items they call for.
Lyc does not recommend upgrading the older 'narrow deck' 150 HP engines
to 160 because they do not have the cylinder base doublers to
stringthing the area at the hold down nuts where it bolts to the
case. The 160 narrow deck engines have this. They also have
longer throught studs and one less cooling fin at the bottom of the
cyl. Therefor, to convert a 150 ND to 160, you need longer through
studs and machine the fin off the cyl and add the doublers.
This is a real pain if you do it by Lyc's specs.
I OH'd a 150 narrow deck (0320-A1A) and decided to convert it to
160 HP anyway. The 160 is only 6.7 % more HP so I decided it was
not worth the effort to change all the studs, etc.
I talked to several other people who had done this and all said it
was not a problem.
I have been flying this in a Pitts for 2 yrs now and it flys at
full power and 3100 to 3400 (or more) RPM all the time.
So far so good.
All of this is for certified engines and aircraft of course.
RAM has a STC for updating E2D engines to 160 HP for Cessnas and
they callout the chrome cyl, etc as well.
The E2D is a wide deck engine.
If you just want a few more hours on a major and are doing a top OH,
I would not be too concerned about the plain steel jugs.
All the new style jugs are built with 'choke' so they are smaller
at the top. This way, when the upper part of the cyl (runs hotter)
heats up it will expand and you will have a more true cylinder bore.
This should also be done if you chrome back the cyl to 'standard'.
You will also get more wear out of the cyl as they usually wear
at the top.
Regards,
Herman
dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
>
> Another question: I have an RV-4 with 0-320-E2D, engine is 1900 tt, and am
> having a top overhaul done. My mechanic says it is very little more to add
> the high compression pistons, while we're replacing them anyway. Makes it 160
> hp. Also will
> use 100LL. Am hoping to get another 4-500 hours before doing a major
> overhaul. Have any of you guys done this? Should I go with the high
> compression pistons, or stay with the standard ones? Anybody have any
> experience with how much if any extra performance is gained? Increased fuel
> burn? Will this considerably decrease my chances of going 4-500 hours with no
> problems?
> MAlexan533
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <70773.2700(at)CompuServe.COM> |
..."number or address I could get a catalog form
Cleveland."...
Cleaveland Tool & Material
1804 First Street
Boone, IA 50036
USA
(515) 432-6794
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
Listers;
I'm about to install a carb temp probe on my -6A and was wondering where
exactly it goes. I have a new O-320 D1A from Van's. The instructions that
came with the probe indicate that some carbs have a lead plug that must be
drilled out, tapped and then the probe inserted. Other carbs have a brass
plug that can be removed and then the probe inserted. This is a stupid
question, but what is on the new carbs from Van's? My carb is already
installed with the air box. I see what appears to be a plug on the front of
the carb, centered above the data plate. Is this the one that should be
removed? Obviously, I'm new at this engine installation business and want
to make sure that I don't end up readjusting a factory preset setting.
Any input on what I should do would be greatly appreciated.
Scott Gesele N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
Ed Bundy asked:
...can someone give me a part # and source for the actual primer fittings?
-----------------
Both Wicks and ACS handle primer fittings in their catalogs (with the AN
fittings). The primer fittings are AN4022-1 (straight) or AN4023-1
(elbow). You will also need a AN800-2 union cone (to solder on the copper
line) and an AN805-2 union nut for each primer fitting.
(Installing engine bits)
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< TONE OF MY MESSAGE! FAA SHOULD MANDATE A BRAS??!!?? >>
I prefer the WonderBRAS system. You folks don't want you be flopping around
in turbulence now do you?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
Subject: | Re: Cleveland tools |
> Does anyone happen to have a number or address I could get a catalog form
> Cleveland. I have use the mention edge bender one time and it work very
> nice. I have been meaning to get one. Thanks.
Cleaveland tools:
email: clevtool(at)tdsi.net
WWW: http://www.cleavelandtool.com
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: STC for Mogas? |
aol.com!Mlfred(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << #2 Raising the compression will prevent you from getting an auto gas
> STC if you wanted to do that. The STC is limited to engines using 80/87
> octane fuel. >>
>
> STC? STC! We don't need no steenking STC!
>
> As the builder of an amateur built aircraft, YOU are the MANUFACTURER. Guess
> who gets to decide if the a/c gets to burn what gas? That's right, the
> manufacturer. STC's are aftermarket items, where somebody does all the
> necessary footwork to get an item/change approved on somebody else's a/c.
>
> I had a "converted" 150 in my -4, and I always (when practical) carried 25%
> av/ 75% auto in both tanks, except in the spring, where I raised the mix to
> 50/50. Straight 100LL on trips, as Mogas isn't that easy to find.
>
> My current a/c has an Airflow F.I. system, and it definately doesn't like the
> Mogas on the ground (lotsa vapor locking & spitting & sputtering). Hence, I
> keep one tank full with 100LL (ground ops, T/O & landing), and the other
> straight Mogas for cruise, when engine load is lower. I anticipate somewhat
> longer plug life while using unleaded fuel. 12 plugs are a bit over $170 US.
>
> BTW, if your engine was built when 91/96 was available, that will be the min
> fuel octane specified on the dataplate, if the engine has the "high" (8.5:1)
> compression pistons. I seem to recall the min octane for my Champ is 73. That
> type is VERY hard to find!
>
> Check six!
> Mark
Mark,
Perhaps I would have been clearer if I had said that raising the
compression ratio would be unwise if you wanted to run straight Mogas at
a later time. However, your suggestion of using a mixture of the two
certainly is a good idea.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Dick Waters Engines |
Craig,
Can you elaborate on the problems you or others have encountered?
Paul Osterman III
RV6A
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Craig Hiers
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 1997 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dick Waters Engines
aol.com!Shelby1138(at)matronics.com wrote:
> Anyone had any dealings with Dick Waters in Orlando. >
> Shelby in Nashville.
Shelby
Stay as far away from this guy as you can, he and his motors are
bad news. I bet I'm not the only one who tells you this.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Lawson" <lscott(at)erinet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Question on riveting |
Remember, also, that with all things mechanical there is a tolerance.
While preferred shop heads are 1.5D by .5D, depending on your reference
they can be 1 2/3D by 1/3D to 1 1/3D by 2/3D. Once you get into shooting
rivets, you will notice that as they swell there is a distinct tone change
in the operation. Let off the trigger when you hear that change and you
will almost always have an acceptable rivet.
----------
> From: Frank van der Hulst <pec.co.nz!frankv(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Question on riveting
> Date: Thursday, March 20, 1997 3:19 PM
>
>
> >I'm riveting the bearing mount on rear horizontal stab.
> >The plans call for AN 470 4 5 rivets. After I install I
> >checked with my avery Red -5 gauge and the hole end
> >fits loosely over rivet end & when I check height it go's
> >right over without touching. Is this correct?
>
> No...
>
> Firstly, you should be using the gold -4 gauge. The gauge size depends on
> the diameter of the rivet, not its total length.
>
> Secondly, I found that the length (can't remember what it was) called for
> in the plans (RV-6) was too short. I believed the plans and drove the
first
> rivet, then had to drill it out again because the shop head was too
small.
> It was very depressing having to drill out the first actual, real rivet I
> drove! But no big deal in the end.
>
> Check out http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny.htm for my various trials &
> tribulations, and lots of RV-building tips & traps.
>
> Frank.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dead Blow Hammer |
>> Also can't find a smart level anywhere. Unfortunately trashed the
>> message talking about the guy who sells these. How 'bout a repost or
>> something? Thanks.
>
>Avery sells them through their catalog. I got mine at a local H/W store
>for somewhat less $$ than Avery sells them for.
>
I've been a carpenter for 20+ yrs. now and have yet to understand, other
than clever marketing, the advantage of the so called "smart level". My
guess is that inside there is a bubble and a LED which is feeding some
circuitry which displays a number. Any liquid spirit level can be checked
for accuracy by reversing the level end to end and seeing if it reads the
same. Split the difference for absolute level or plumb. Nothing beats a
plumb bob for vertical accuracy, but then how do you market a weight and
string? The same holds true with the laser levels. Think about it. You
project a 6" level surface 30'--50' you're going to lose some accuracy. The
secret to all of this is knowing your tolerances, something that isn't
discussed enough. Read about engine mounts for instance. When they don't
fit, what is acceptable? How much can you shim, how much can you bend,
when is heat needed? Anyways, go buy a Sears 4' level, a torpedo level, try
not to drop them too much, check them when you use them, and move on (=:/>*
kevin distinctive decks & designs 6A-air box/baffling
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
writes:
> I have read something in the RVators about the canopy being pop riveted
so that the >canopy can be jettisoned in order to exit the aircraft.
True. The canopy is secured with a minimum number of pop rivets so that
it will pull free if unlatched in flight. It works, too. I have a
friend who accidentally tested this feature while taxiing with an
unlocked canopy on a windy day. The canopy pulled cleanly off without
hitting the airframe. He straightened it and pop-riveted it back on
without too much trouble.
> I'm wondering how many of you guys wear parachutes when doing
aerobatics? If >you do use one, what kind? Seat pack?, Back pack? Your
experiences or knowlege >appreciated by myself and probably everyone else
too!
I have grown used to having the bail-out option in military flying.
Because that has become an intrinsic part of my thinking, I determined to
keep that option in my RV-4. In test-fitting my cockpit I discovered
that I need a seat pack in the front seat and a back pack in the rear
seat. I am 6' 2". With a Strong Enterprises seat pack resting on the
floor, I have under an inch head room over my headset in the front seat.
In the back seat, with a 2" seat per Cleaveland drawing, I have about the
same head clearance. I found that the back pack moved me forward a
little, leaving more head room, but of course less clearance from the
back of the front seat and the stick.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 still installing engine mount. I think I have the problem solved;
details to follow.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Carrythrough bulkhead |
As the RV-8 crew knows, the original carrythrough bulkheads were fabricated
with the flutes in an incorrect position. We notified everyone and finally
sent new bulkheads components out. As luck would have it, a vendor
prepared these parts and wrapped them and they were incorrectly matched. As
a result, we are having to recall these components. This only applies to
those persons who received a care package within the last week containing 4
bulkheads plus other miscelaneous parts. We know exactly who has these
parts and have sent letters to everyone affected.
A letter was mailed on Thursday asking those persons to return only the 4
bulkheads to us with the number marked on the outside *RA8B* and include
your name. We will sort throught all the parts and return the correct 4
parts. We will credit your account for the shipping charges to return the
parts.
This recall does not apply to those persons who have received their wings
within the last 2 to 4 weeks. Only if you received a box approximately
March 13, 1997 - March 22, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-cp