RV-Archive.digest.vol-cr
April 01, 1997 - April 09, 1997
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: for studs only! |
kevin lane wrote:
>
> Next> question, removing studs from the engine block.
>
>Kevin,
I'm not really clear on why you're removing these studs. I believe they
were in the way or you wanted to install a cover plate. If all other
methods fail you can do the following:
Using a die grinder with cutoff wheel, cut the studs off flush with the
case.
CAREFULLY center-punch the stud
Drill out the center of the stud using a small (1/8") drill bit.(Cobalt
bits work best) Use of a level on the drill and a second set of eyeballs
will ensure that you drill straight into the stud. This is of utmost
importance. If the area around the stud is machined you can use a square
or a commercial tool to keep the drill perpendicular to the surface
(best choice)
Use the appropriate Helicoil thread repair kit to drill the stud and
surrounding threads out. The kit will specify the drill needed depending
on the stud diameter and thread.
Tap the hole with the supplied tap and install a Helicoil insert in the
hole. Break off the drive tang on the insert and you are done. Repeat as
needed.
I find this to be the fastest and best repair when faced with your
problem. The Helicoil insert is stainless steel so dissimilar metal
corrosion between the stud and case is a non issue in future. The O.D.
of the insert is larger, therefore the joint is as strong if not
stronger than it originally was. I must say that I am unfamiliar with
the area of your particular engine. If anyone on list knows of a
potential problem with the method I've suggested, (ie. not enough
material left near an edge) please advise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daniel Potter <dpotter(at)QNET.COM> |
I have a new low drag wing tip with a light kit. The tip is up to 8 MPH
faster that the tip Van's sells. John Harmon and Dave Anders will be a
Sun'n'Fun if anyone wants to look at them, or E-Mail me off line and I
can send you a BMP showing the tip on Oliver Brennen's RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fechtigsd%AM5(at)mr.nawcad.navy.mil |
Autoforwarded: false
Importance: normal
Ua-Content-Id: 11B40AA73B00
Hop-Count: 1
Listers,
First, I should introduce myself. My name is Scott Fechtig and I am a
former Naval Aviator (Whale driver) and current human factors engineer at the
Naval Air Warfare Center, Patuxent River, MD. I've been lurking for some time
now and have already learned a lot about RV building. Hope to start on a -6
soon after attending the Maryland RV builders forum.
On to business...I will be in Seattle (Boeing) next week (7-10 Apr) and
was wondering if anyone in the Sea-Tac area would be willing to show me their
project or finished product during the evenings. Please respond by private
e-mail or call (301)342-9277 during east coast working hours.
Thanks,
Scott
fechtigsd%am5(at)mr.nawcad.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip strobes |
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
>>SNIP The Van's catalog sells a kit for enclosing the position lights
into
>the<<
>>Thanks, Mike
Those that use RMD's tip landing light system often enclose the
strobe/position light combo inside. I did and it works fine.
Regards: Rusty Gossard N47RG RV-4 Flying since
8-94<| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: James fairings at S'n'F |
>
>RON TABOREK wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'll be at Sun'n'Fun Monday and I will be keeping an eye open for the
>> previously identified airplanes. At noon on Monday, I'll be meeting
>> Sam James, who makes wing root fairings and wheel pants at Van's tent.
>> Would like to meet any of you who are around.
>>
>> Ron Taborek RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto ron.taborek(at)flight642.com
>
>
>
>Ron
>I am at the same point on my RV-4 that you are on yours, I would also
>like to see what Sam James fairings look like, so I will make it a point
>to be at van's tent monday at noon.
>
>
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
>Tallahassee,FL.
>working on the motor
>
>
Let us listers know what you think. Also, how do they look installed? If
you can find an aircraft with them on it. I thought they looked a little
THIN but I suppose a person could add a few layers of glass......
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks on the electronics |
>
>Well back to the hunt for the EGT & CHT. Thanks for the input Bob and Scott.
>
>denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
>
Being an analog type of person (?) I have all analog instruments in the
panel except the EGT/CHT. (I like being able to know an istruments relative
reading by noting the position of needles, which should always be about the
same.) I have an Electronics International EGT/CHT in the panel and am
pleased with it. It is accurate enough I can read the Outside Air
Temperature from it before first start-up: the cold EGT and CHT are usually
within a degree of each other. It is digital and goes between the EGT and
CHT with the flip of a switch on the istrument itself. Check it out.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Helmets and bird strikes |
>A helmet is going to do absolutely zip for you if the bird hits anywhere below
>the eyebrows. Unless, of course you wear a full-face helmet or wear the helmet
>backwards.........
Wellllllll, MAYbe. Having read accounts of bird strikes, having ANY
protection on your face (sunglasses in one account) is helpful. The canopy
would absorb most of the energy of the Flying Object and your face will take
up the rest in the form of bloodandgutsandglassand200mphwind. The rare
birdstrike is only one small reason to wear a helmet. We don't just wear
seatbelts for the occasional encounter with turbulence; heads having an
unplanned encounter with any Hard Surface is the purpose of helmets. Doing
the UpSideDown Dance down the runway is much more common (saw it happen
yesterday to a BEAUTIFUL Cessna 180 at the airport: beware the crosswind and
low tailwheel hours) and may be one of the best reasons. It's a personal
choice, helmets. They are not necessary, like a seatbelt. Most pilots have
done perfectly well without them. The RV series is a little different in
that there is no aluminum cage protecting us from the Great Outdoors.
Wearing a helmet is like tail wheels: some like to fly with 'em, some don't.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip strobes |
>
>Another consideration if you dont mind spending some extra cash, is a wing
>tip kit from RMD. The kit includes a wing tip landing light all the wire for
>the nav and landing light, the lens and lens frame. This is a first class
>installation. The bonus is you dont have to cut up your leading edge for a
>landing light......
I have the RMD system and, when I unpacked it from the box, thought "This is
EXACTLY how I would have built my own system." (if I was that smart.) Good,
clean installation, all the wires and terminals you need (no switches: use
your own) and it works well. The lights being "way" out on the tips also
makes the airplane look HUGE when they're on (which is one of the purposes).
I regard the box structure of the wing to be sacred and hesitate to
rip...excuse me...cut a hole in the D-box structure of the leading edge for
the landing light. I know there are LOTS of them flying just fine, thank
you, but not on my wing. Again, personal preference. I think the leading
edge type is a lighter installation, however.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | F-676/677 Belly skins |
I've noticed on several RV6's that biulders have had to add a splice
strip to the belly skin were it overhangs the bottom of the wing. Are
these skins of marginal width or is there a gotcha in there somewhere?
I'm thinking about ordering a wider skin, but so far mine seem to
measure wide enough but don't leave anything extra.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <joe(at)flnet.com> |
washers how do identify washers such as 5702-95-30, 8702-73-60 etc. cant
find it in my manual. TU
joe/bellcrank
joe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com (Rob Rimbold) |
>
> I have a new low drag wing tip with a light kit. The tip is up to 8 MPH
> faster that the tip Van's sells. John Harmon and Dave Anders will be a
> Sun'n'Fun if anyone wants to look at them, or E-Mail me off line and I
> can send you a BMP showing the tip on Oliver Brennen's RV-6
Do you mean that you sell them, or that you bought one? I'm very
interested, since we're going to take delivery of our kit without wingtips.
Does the light kit contain both position lights and strobes, negating
the need for lights on the tail?
Please email me a copy of the picture.
'Rob
Email: rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers:
My RV-6A can be EASILY flown with the trim at either extreme.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Craig Hiers wrote:
>
>
>
>P.S. I flew on a P.B.A. airlines EMB 110 about 10 years ago, I
>got off the plane in Tallahassee in the AM. the plane went to
>Jacksonville that afternoon and on takeoff out of JAX the plane
>suffered run-away trim, the plane crashed before the pilot could react
>and killed all on board. If this had happend one takeoff earlier
>I would not be here. I think about this a lot.
>
>
> ***SNIP****
> Bear in mind that I have yet to fly an RV (a condition
>I hope to rectify soon), but I have flown numerous light aircraft and
haven't found
>any that were excessively difficult to control out of trim. I
understand that the
>RV is very light on the controls, and think it's probably relatively
easy
>to manage even with full nose-up or nose-down trim. I would make that
decision
>more on personal preference, but consideration of possible failures is
every
>builder's responsibility.
>
>On the other hand, you never have to adjust, repair, or replace anything
that
>you don't install.
>
>Tim Bronson Pittsburgh RV-8WB (Wanna build)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stephen Jackson Soule <ssoule(at)vbimail.champlain.edu> |
Robert Fritz wrote:
>
>
> As a long time biker I enthusiastically wore a helmet in even the hottest
> weather.
>
> However...........
>
> A helmet is going to do absolutely zip for you if the bird hits anywhere below
> the eyebrows ...
I am interested in a helmet because I have been involved in the
aftermath of several light aircraft accidents in which some or all of
the cabin occupants died.
I do not have medical training, but from the looks of their bodies all
of them would have lived if they had not hit their heads on the inside
of the cabin. The medical examiner concluded in each accident that all
of the deaths were caused by head trauma, but he was not asked the "but
for a helmet" question.
In the most recent crash, the front seat occupants of a Cessna 172 were
both killed by head injuries even though they were belted in place. The
rear seat occupant walked away. He was badly injured, but he walked
away. I think he survived because he did not strike his head on
anything harder than the back of the front seats.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James fairings at S'n'F |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com writes:
Listers:
I have his set of wing root fairings, but haven't installed then as of
yet. I am concerned about placement of the mounting screws in the wing at
the edge of the tanks. I plan on using #6-32 Rib-Nuts for mounting them.
Has anybody else done this yet?
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>Let us listers know what you think. Also, how do they look installed?
>If
>you can find an aircraft with them on it. I thought they looked a
>little
>THIN but I suppose a person could add a few layers of glass......
>
>Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikeb(at)lsil.com (Mike Brogley) |
> dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> > Hey, Steve:
> > 1. WHERE: Flight Suits Ltd (800-748-6693) will custom make a helmet for
you...
>
Flight Suites Ltd catalog can be ordered FREE (I love that word) by
e-mail at:
mailbox(at)flightsuits.com
They also have a primitive web site (under construction - webhardhat area)
at http://www.flightsuits.com, but there is not much there yet.
--
Mike Brogley
RV-8 sn80241
San Jose, CA USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darwin Esh <103126.3212(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Can anyone suggest a way to cut the canopy with out so much risk of causing a
crack?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EAA524 MD Forum, need assistance |
Two RV6 builders here, who have a C172 for transportation now, desire to
attend the MD RV forum. We would like to find out if there is a extra family
room floor we could crash on in our sleeping bags and get rides back and
fourth to forum that week end too.
We are active participants in the EAA486 Oswego NY, RV forum and again will
be opening our home for same. This summer's EAA486 3rd annual RV forum has
been changed, and is now scheduled to be later in September watch list for
more updates.
Please contact David McManmon, McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hobby Stevens <rayco(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip Lights |
Daniel Potter wrote:
> can send you a BMP showing the tip on Oliver Brennen's RV-6
please send me the BMP. I'm building a RV6QB
Thanks
Hobby Stevens
rayco(at)camalott.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Does anyone have somewhere I could access a definitive chart or page on Pop
Rivets ? I can't seem to find any indepth information on them.
Thanks,
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-676/677 Belly skins |
>
>I've noticed on several RV6's that biulders have had to add a splice
>strip to the belly skin were it overhangs the bottom of the wing. Are
>these skins of marginal width or is there a gotcha in there somewhere?
>I'm thinking about ordering a wider skin, but so far mine seem to
>measure wide enough but don't leave anything extra.
>
>Chris Brooks
> BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
>
>
Most of the airplane I have looked at the skin has been large enough. I
have looked at a couple that had the problem you mentioned. My narrow belley
skin was marginal on trial assembly so I elected to go with a larger skin
which I happened to have on hand. This gave me more than enough over lap. I
like that comfortable margin. A couple builders told me they double lapped
at the center so each skin is attached to the opposite 619. I have
forgotten the exact explanation, but it made sense at the time. Good building.
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing Construction tapes |
To all of the people that have be patently awaiting the new Video on the RV-8
wings the wait is over. They are now ready, cost $36 plus $ 8 shipping from
Becki and I ,Vans also well be carrying them as well as Avery Tools. If you
have any other question please write or call 817-439-3280........George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: F-676/677 Belly skins |
<< I've noticed on several RV6's that biulders have had to add a splice
strip to the belly skin were it overhangs the bottom of the wing. Are
these skins of marginal width or is there a gotcha in there somewhere?
I'm thinking about ordering a wider skin, but so far mine seem to
measure wide enough but don't leave anything extra. >>
Chris-
No problem here. The belly skins (two pieces) on my kit were plenty wide.
It looks as though I will need to trim about .25" from each side to get the
final edge position I want. To assure yourself, you can measure the distance
from the bottom inboard corner of the spar to the outboard edge of the root
rib on each wing, then add these dimensions them together with a reasonable
allowance to get the required final distance that the belly skin must span.
This of course assumes that everything is reasonably symmetrical about the
center line.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Mosur" <jmosur(at)interlog.com> |
For Sale one excellent wooden jig one fus. off, should be available in one
week $i50.00 cost , located Brampton Ontario, call 905 791 1626 ask for
Peter. Jim Mosur.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 video correction |
Sorry for the mix up but the price for the RV-8 wing videos are the same as
the RV-6 videos $41 plus shipping....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Elon,
I'm considering replaceing my O-320D1A with a Chevy 4.3 liter engine.
I saw this posted a while back and wondered if these part numbers are
for that engine. I'm trying to put together a list of the part numbers
for this engine.... Do you have anymore infor for the Chevy 4.3 Liter
engine?
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Ernesto Sanchez wrote:
>
>As to the weight, the Buick weighs the same as an "all aluminum Chev
>V-6". I like the Chev better but $4500 for a bare block and $3000+ for
>
>heads is too much!
>
>-----------------------------
>Ernesto:
>Chev p/n 14044802, aluminum cyl head, V-6 lists for $402.38 ea.
>Chev p/n 10134394, Aluminum cyl head, V-6 lists for $1,350 ea.
>The -394 head is patterned after the splayed valve big block and has
>huge ports.
>It is totaly unsuited for aircraft use. Other manufactures, Brodix,
>Dart, etc sell heads for aprox $1k per pair.
>
>The aluminum Buick/Olds blocks are great motors. However, the mains
>walk around quite a bit and
>I would suggest looking into a set of ARP, custom, main bearing studs.
>
>I believe Rover bought all of the Buick tooling for its aluminum V-8.
>
>Spare parts should be available but might be meteric dims.
>Elon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>washers how do identify washers such as 5702-95-30, 8702-73-60 etc. cant
>find it in my manual. TU
>
>joe/bellcrank
>joe(at)flnet.com
>
Joe, We may have talked today, but for all the other listeners, there is
something to be said for noting the contents of the bags as you dump them
out. Another idea is to take the accessories catalog and turning to the
hardware store back in the back. The section with washers informs one that
the 5702-95-30 is for a 1/4 inch bolt. The newer catalogs also define the
OD as 0.75". There is no 8702 washer, so I don't know where that number
came from. Probably a typo, but the 5702-75-60 fits on an AN3 (#10) bolt,
about 3/16" ID and has an OD of about 0.3". Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Overhaul Video |
I saw an ad in Western Flyer for a 2hr video "How to Overhaul
Airplane Engines", $8.50 + $3 S&H , Seminar Publishers,
210 5th Ave., Suite 1102, New York, NY 10010, (410)321-7519
Has anyone bit on this? Is it worth the money, educational,
professionally done, etc.? The address alone makes me skeptical.
Why hasn't someone published a "how-to" book on aircraft engine
teardown/overhaul/buildup, similar to those published for automotive
brand-specific engine buildup? There'd be a market.
"Tony Bingelis on Engines" is great for installation tips, but not
even a picture of engine internals. EAA's "Aircraft Powerplant Handbook"
is heavy on general theory, if you're studying for the Powerplant "written"
exam (as it used to be called).
How about an experienced mechanic taking the Lycoming overhaul manual,
put a run-out Lyc on a stand, and start snapping pictures of the whole
procedure? Ly-ablility I suppose...
D. Anderson
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
writes:
>
>Can anyone suggest a way to cut the canopy with out so much risk of
>causing a
>crack?
>
>
I speak from experience, having cracked my first RV-4 canopy. Keep the
shop REALLY warm. Use an abrasive wheel chucked into a die grinder or
drill. Radius all edges to a diameter equal to the thickness of the
material before you handle the cut canopy. I found that a router bit
chucked into a Dremel motor worked nicely, then followed up with coarse
sand paper. Handle carefully to avoid stressing the edges (the canopy
becomes floppy after you cut away the base.) I actually did not crack
the canopy while cutting, but while drilling the rivet holes. On my
second canopy I tried drilling with a 1/8" rotary file chucked into the
Dremel tool. It worked well, appearing to melt through the plastic
rather than cut. My second canopy turned out much better, although later
I found a very small crack forming down under the side skin. I
successfully stop-drilled it and filled with clear epoxy. It is barely
noticeable.
I thought the canopy was a miserable job, second only to the fuel tanks.
It required many cut, fit, cut iterations. And then I had to do it
twice!
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 mounting landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Darwin Esh wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone suggest a way to cut the canopy with out so much risk of causing a
> crack?
Yes, Use the cutoff wheels provided in the finish kit and ABSOLUTELY
make sure the environment you work in is at least 75 degrees F. Not 74
but 75 or 80 is even better.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | twood <woodfam(at)aloha.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Helmets and bird strikes |
Snip
The RV series is a little different in
>that there is no aluminum cage protecting us from the Great Outdoors.
>Wearing a helmet is like tail wheels: some like to fly with 'em, some don't.
>
>Michael
A few comments from (usually) a lurker...
First, for what its worth, I have spent a couple thousand hours inside Navy
fixed wing and helicopter helmets and have never been under the impression
that military type flight helmets are "crash" helmets or built anywhere near
the safety standards of your typical motorcycle type helmet. I think the
primary protection they provide are sound attenuation and limited flash fire
protection. For an RV, they are probably better than banging your head
against the canopy during acro but if your plane flips, I would think the
best you could say would be "better than nothing". I would recommend that
no one assumes too much crash protection unless the helmet is certified by
an independent crash testing organization. (ANSI?)
Second, good luck finding one that is comfortable for any length of time.
My experience is that they are generally hot and even with form fit molds,
hot spots (pressure points) causing head aches are common. Your milage may
vary...
Third, the bird strike issue reminded me of a Navy flight school story from
almost twenty years ago. My memory isn't perfect so if anyone remembers
more exact details, feel free to correct me... Anyway, a student and
instructor are on a very early FAM flight (the student has not soloed yet)
in a T34C when they take a bird strike. The bird comes through the canopy,
hits the student in front, breaking his collar bone and knocking him
unconscious. Pieces of bird, canopy, etc, continue through the cockpit
striking the instructor in the back seat. I have no idea if the
instructor's visor was down and broke, or up, but the instructor was
partially blinded after being hit. So now the unconscious student is
slumped over the stick making it difficult(impossible?) for the instructor
to get control of the A/C. The instructor can see very little and calls to
the student but gets no response. Instuctor assumes that the student is
dead. The instructor determines that he can't see or control the A/C well
enough to land and BAILS OUT! Student regains consciousness. Student, now
on first (non briefed) solo flight, somehow locates an outlying field and
despite a broken collar bone, safely lands. Instructor also lands safely,
but at a somewhat slower ground speed.
Fly safe,
Terray
________________________________________________________________________________
<< >Van announced some time ago that there will be an RV-8A, which like
>the
>RV-6A is a trike.
>
>Bill
>
Bill,
Say it ain't so! You're gonna hang a NOSEwheel on that beautiful
airplane?! Don't do it!
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 engine mount successfully drilled
>>
I thought Ken said a picture of the trike RV-8A was going to be in the next
RVator.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
4/1/97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: for studs only! |
>
>Hope everyone doesn't think I'm cluttering up the list lately. Next
>question, removing studs from the engine block. I've tried screwing on two
>nuts, tightening them against one another and then attempting to extract the
>stud. When the torque approached stripping the nuts out I then tried
>putting a torch to the aluminum. This scares the hell out of me, not
>knowing how much and how fast I can safely heat things. I assume heating
>just the stud would have the opposite effect desired. I have the forward
>prop govenor studs(?) and the vacuum pump studs to possibly remove, although
>I could work around them.
>
>other note: Bill B says those are forward gov. mounting studs. I can tell
>something was attached there because of the absence of blue paint, but what
>is puzzling is that the D2J has a solid crank and the guy I bought the
>engine from had the prop too, FP aluminum. The case has an unmachined pad
>above the studs, similar to the unmachined gov. pad on the accessory case.
>Don't C/S props require hollow cranks?(Sorry Mr. Maroon Marauder, non-IVO
>C/S props :=) I know, just quit worrying and pound rivets. kevin RVIA
Kevin, sounds like someone slipped you an H series engine ;-) without your
knowledge. Could be a fuel pump pad. I think the H series has a pump in
this general location. You know, you could save yourself a lot of worry if
you would just convert a little (lota) cash into a new O-320 ;=)! Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry WARD <ward(at)axime.com> |
| Subject: | Bob Avery all is forgiven!! |
A few weeks ago there was a thread on the list about delays in geting tools
from Bob Avery.
I also had had a problem last July when I was about to work on my fuel
tanks. I ordered from Bob via telephone a set of #8 dimple dies and a
countersink tool.
On previous orders I phoned them in on a Monday and by the end of the week
the parts turned up at my home in France.
On this occasion I waited and waited. After 3 weeks I called to find out
what had happened. Bob and Co informed me that the parts had been sent and
could not figure out why they had not arrived. They eventually sent without
charge a second set of parts which arrived and I carried on building the
fuel tanks.
I forgot about all of this until the other day when a packet arrived at my
home with the original parts, but in a very rusty state, together with a
letter signed by a Mr Grubiak of the United Parcel Service. It appears my
parts were shipped out, but they had been put on Flight TWA 800. As you may
remember this is the one that didn't make it. It went down off Long Island
taking with it passengers crew plus my order from Bob Avery.
Having fished the parts out of the sea and the FAA investigating agency
figuring out that the dimple dies were not the cause of the crash they have
now been sent on to me.
I can probably clean up the parts but the rest of the parcel plus the Avery
catalog is a real mess as you can imagine. Should I prime the parts ... what
is the best primer to protect against sea water .. no I don't think we had
better get that thread going again.
Barry Ward ward(at)axime.com finishing up wings RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
<19970401.225140.7815.0.tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Listers,
My experience with the canopy was just the oposite of John's. With two
of
us working on it, it only took a full days work to install it to the
point of starting
the fiberglass fairing work (Tiltup version). All cutting was done with a
air
powered cutoff wheel. I used #6 screws to mount it into place. These
holes were
drilled with a "dull" bit (ie, cutting edge rounded off on the belt
sander). I didn't
experience any cracks........
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
(John T. Craig-Stearman) writes:
>Craig-Stearman)
> writes:
>>
>>Can anyone suggest a way to cut the canopy with out so much risk of
>>causing a crack?
>>
> I speak from experience, having cracked my first RV-4 canopy.
>Keep the shop REALLY warm. Use an abrasive wheel chucked into a die
>grinder or drill. Radius all edges to a diameter equal to the
>thickness of the material before you handle the cut canopy. I found
>that a router bit chucked into a Dremel motor worked nicely, then
>followed up with coarse sand paper. Handle carefully to avoid
>stressing the edges (the canopy becomes floppy after you cut away the
>base.) I actually did not crack the canopy while cutting, but while
>drilling the rivet holes. On my second canopy I tried drilling with a
>1/8" rotary file chucked into the Dremel tool. It worked well,
>appearing to melt through the plastic rather than cut. My second
>canopy turned out much better, although later I found a very small
>crack forming down under the side skin. I
>successfully stop-drilled it and filled with clear epoxy. It is barely
>noticeable. I thought the canopy was a miserable job, second only to
the fuel tanks.
>It required many cut, fit, cut iterations. And then I had to do it
>twice!
>
>Regards,
>Tom Craig-Stearman
>tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com RV-4 mounting landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
<334171BF.6E88(at)vbimail.champlain.edu>
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com (Bruce D Stobbe) |
>>I am interested in a helmet because I have been involved in the
aftermath of several light aircraft accidents in which some or all of
the cabin occupants died.<<
Wholly cow! Not one, not two, but several!!?? Uh, I don't mean to
offend you but I hope you and I never happen to be on the same airplane
together!
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Helmets and bird strikes |
Bob,
I wholeheartedly agree with "the risk is relative" philosophy.
Les
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Robert Fritz
Sent: Monday, March 31, 1997 7:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Helmets and bird strikes
As a long time biker I enthusiastically wore a helmet in even the hottest
weather.
However...........
A helmet is going to do absolutely zip for you if the bird hits anywhere below
the eyebrows. Unless, of course you wear a full-face helmet or wear the
helmet
backwards.
It would seem to me that irrational paranoia is creeping in here. How often
do
any you plan to fly through a flock of gulls? Yes, I know that it happens.
However, at my airport we've got 10 lb. jackrabbits running across the runway
all the time but I'll be damned if I'll fit a locomotive cow-catcher between
the
wheels.
Risk is relative it has to be seen in the context of probability or we'll all
hide under the bed waiting for the next asteroid to cream us.
But then what good is the opinion of a guy who used to spend his weekends
cleaning the inside windows of the shark tank at the SF Aquarium!
Cheers
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Engine instruments |
The RMI system looks interesting as far as panel space and weight is
concerned. It would be a useful tool, but more so if they would have put a
selector switch EGT & CHT or made that an option.
I know a fellow that almost save some money because he determined that a
exhaust gasket had blown landed and repaired. The rub was the unit the 2 &
3 EGT in the wrong stack. And no one checked farther. He decided it was the
EGT guage when the same indications were there. He discovered the problem
after the other (?) exhaust leak had done some real damage. :^(
Thanks all for info
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James fairings- fitting to a/c |
<< I have his set of wing root fairings, but haven't installed then as of
yet. I am concerned about placement of the mounting screws in the wing at
the edge of the tanks. I plan on using #6-32 Rib-Nuts for mounting them.
Has anybody else done this yet?
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com >>
We don't use any fasteners on the top of the tank- just put 2 or 3 into the
inner edge on the bottom side of the tank. The remainder of the fasteners go
into the fuse and the wingwalk area.
Make sure your flaps are rigged correctly while fitting the fairings.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
>
>
>
>I saw an ad in Western Flyer for a 2hr video "How to Overhaul
>Airplane Engines", $8.50 + $3 S&H , Seminar Publishers,
>210 5th Ave., Suite 1102, New York, NY 10010, (410)321-7519
Hi, I bought the tape several years ago. It is very old tape, probably in
the 40's. It a step 1, 2, 3 type. Not technical in anyway. Looks like a 65
h.p. type. This fellow has a lot of old World War II tapes he sells also.
Some are interesting. I didn't get much from the overhaul tape.
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gcomfo(at)tc3net.com (Gordon Comfort) |
chester razer wrote:
>
>
> Darwin Esh wrote:
> >
> >
> > Can anyone suggest a way to cut the canopy with out so much risk of causing
a
> > crack?
>
> Yes, Use the cutoff wheels provided in the finish kit and ABSOLUTELY
> make sure the environment you work in is at least 75 degrees F. Not 74
> but 75 or 80 is even better.
> --
> Chet Razer
> crazer(at)egyptian.net
I concur with your advice on the cutoff wheel and temperature. It also
is helpful when drilling to use a drill intended for the purpose which
your local mill supply house either has or can get for you. It has a
steeper point angle, reduced point clearance (making the drill less
aggressive) and a shallow spiral (less likely to snag). Used with a
good variable speed drill motor turning slowly the chance of cracks is
less. A single flute countersink handled the same way will also do a
good job.
G.Comfort
RV-4 N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip strobes |
<< Does anyone have the addresses of Chief or RMD ?
TFTI >>
As it says in the FAQ, check the Yeller Pages at
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm for such repetitious info.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip Lights |
<< I have a new low drag wing tip with a light kit. The tip is up to 8 MPH
faster that the tip Van's sells. >>
Funny, I don't see any cows - but I do smell....
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine instruments |
>
>The RMI system looks interesting as far as panel space and weight is
>concerned. It would be a useful tool, but more so if they would have put a
>selector switch EGT & CHT or made that an option.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Denny, it is an option.
The full wiring for a panel mounted selector switch (simultaneous
switching of both EGT and CHT) is shown in the manual. It just needs a two
pole, four way rotary switch in the panel (Westach #254-20-EDP, $28 from
Aircraft $pruce would work) and, of course, 6 extra probes. What it does
_not_ do is automatic scanning of multiple cylinders.
*** snip ***
>
>Thanks all for info
>denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
... hope this helps ... Gil (I built one) Alexander
PS I are a elektronik injunear ...:^) and the RMI Engine Monitor is
honestly the best kit I have ever seen, both in design and in packaging.
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Glenn,
Drawing 32 best shows the location of the roll bar. Although it doesn't give
dimensions, I think you will find that once you get the roll bar constructed
with all the mounting angles, it will be evident where it fits best and meets
the measurements to the sides.
Some people put the skin arms all the way forward over the rollbar. Others,
like me, cut a notch at the front where the canopy plexiglas meets the F-631C.
I don't think you can tell right now how that will fit, so I would leave some
extra skin to trim away later.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Glenn & Judi
Sent: Monday, March 31, 1997 6:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Q6-Tip up
Hi,
Two questions regarding the RV-6Q (tip up version)
1) When installing the roll bar (dwg 39), what is the longitudinal
position of the roll bar assembly in relation to F605F? Figure A-A does
not have F605F pictured.
2) Should the F674 skin completely cover the side surface of the roll
bar?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
--=20
MZ=90
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Kevin,
There is a stud removal tool available from better tool jobbers, but that
won't keep you from breaking the studs off. Hope someone else can assist you
with that possibility. I certainly don't fancy drilling out broken bolts in
aluminum as it usually results in an oversize hole and inserting helicoils, at
least in auto applications.
Les
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of kevin lane
Sent: Monday, March 31, 1997 1:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: for studs only!
Hope everyone doesn't think I'm cluttering up the list lately. Next
question, removing studs from the engine block. I've tried screwing on two
nuts, tightening them against one another and then attempting to extract the
stud. When the torque approached stripping the nuts out I then tried
putting a torch to the aluminum. This scares the hell out of me, not
knowing how much and how fast I can safely heat things. I assume heating
just the stud would have the opposite effect desired. I have the forward
prop govenor studs(?) and the vacuum pump studs to possibly remove, although
I could work around them.
other note: Bill B says those are forward gov. mounting studs. I can tell
something was attached there because of the absence of blue paint, but what
is puzzling is that the D2J has a solid crank and the guy I bought the
engine from had the prop too, FP aluminum. The case has an unmachined pad
above the studs, similar to the unmachined gov. pad on the accessory case.
Don't C/S props require hollow cranks?(Sorry Mr. Maroon Marauder, non-IVO
C/S props :=) I know, just quit worrying and pound rivets. kevin RVIA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> >washers how do identify washers such as 5702-95-30, 8702-73-60 etc. cant
> >find it in my manual. TU
Can't help with that, but I have a suggestion -- it took me until my
finish kit to figure out that it's worthwhile to take the time to
identify all the odd bolts/washers/etc at inventory time, and with the
low-count items (where possible), to actually take a sharpie pen and
write the p/n on the head or side of the bolt/nut/washer. Tedious, but
otherwise it's too easy to lose track of which is what and spend time
later trying to figure it out. I thanked myself later for doing this
(and cursed myself where I didn't do it!)
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
Patrick Kelley adds:
I keep getting these messages occasionally - no subject or body. What
are they for?
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Dunn <72000.3470(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | empennage video for sale |
Hi all,
I am trying to recoup some tool outlay.
Anyway, I have a copy of Orndorff's "RV CONSTRUCTION - EMPENNAGE" two part set
of videos for sale.
These are very low time, like-new videos still in the original wrappers! And
these babies are the full feature instructions (not the pre-punched pansy
series).
Yours, K-Mart shoppers, for only one-half price!
Send private E-mail (first come-first serve).
Regards,
Ron (still trying to adjust to the -8 fuselage sticker shock) #80078
72000.3470(at)Compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 0-320-H Oil Filter Adapter |
| From: | grihen(at)juno.com (John F Henley) |
I am rebuilding a 320-H engine to install in my RV6 and would like to
convert the old style screen type oil filter to the spin on type filter.
Do any of you engine gurus know of a way to do this without installing
the Lycoming adapter and fitting assembly or are they the only game in
town? I am looking for a cheaper alternative. In a related thread, if I
decide I do not want to pay big prices for this item, are the any facts
and figures available for the screen filter vs the spin on filter as to
how longevity is lengthened with the spin on filter?
Thanks in advance, John Henley (grihen(at)juno.com)
Installing empennage on the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: No Body Messages... |
>--------------
>
>owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>Patrick Kelley adds:
>I keep getting these messages occasionally - no subject or body. What
>are they for?
>
>PatK
>--------------
These messages generally occur when there is a problem with outbound transfer
of email to the members on the List. Every message that is posted to the List
is batched in groups of about 30 email addresses and sent out. That's about
24 messages (720 members / 30). If something glitches during the transfer of
one of these 24 messages, about 30 people will receive a message like the
one above. Nothing to worry about as long as you arn't getting more than
1 per week or so.
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ted_boudreaux(at)om.cv.hp.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip Lights |
Daniel, please send me the BMP also.
To all other listers: sorry for taking up bandwidth with this
request, but my mail server is bouncing all messages I try to send to
Daniel directly.
Thanks,
Ted Boudreaux
ted_boudreaux(at)hp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine instruments |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> The RMI system looks interesting as far as panel space and weight is
> concerned. It would be a useful tool, but more so if they would have put a
> selector switch EGT & CHT or made that an option.
> I know a fellow that almost save some money because he determined that a
> exhaust gasket had blown landed and repaired. The rub was the unit the 2 &
> 3 EGT in the wrong stack. And no one checked farther. He decided it was the
> EGT guage when the same indications were there. He discovered the problem
> after the other (?) exhaust leak had done some real damage. :^(
>
> Thanks all for info
> denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
Ron at RMI offers a selector switch which allows you to switch between
cylinders so all cylinders can be monitored. I purchased his monitor
unit and liked it so well I also purchased the encoder. That frees up a
lot of space on my 6A panel.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
I just bought a couple of those organizers with the drawers and put
labels on for each new kind of part. It is WAY worth the investment in
time. Get the kind where the drawers are removable (instead of bins) so
you can carry them to the place where you are doing riveting and such.
Eventually you'll have them all ordered in rows so grabbing the next
size of rivet is simple. This takes an hour or two when you get each
new kit but it immediately pays for itself.
-Mike
Finishing left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Spin-on Oil Filter Adapters |
FROM: John F Henley, INTERNET:grihen(at)juno.com
/I am rebuilding a 320-H engine to install in my RV6
/and would like to convert the old style screen type
/oil filter to the spin on type filter. Do any of you
/engine gurus know of a way to do this without installing
/the Lycoming adapter and fitting assembly or are they
/the only game in town? I am looking for a cheaper
/alternative.
Check out the new spin-on adapter from B&C Specialty
products. This is a beautifully machined part hogged
out of solid aluminum. Call Bill at 316.283.8000
after Sun-n-Fun . . . give him a few days to get packed
up and get back home after the show. He showed this
new part at OSH last year and is getting a LOT of
play on it. It's a one piece right angle adapter that's
available in several versions depending on clearances
to cowl, mounts, etc.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 0-320-H Oil Filter Adapter |
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
I just installed the Air Wolf remote oil filter adapter to the 0-320 in
my RV6A. Previously I installed the same unit in the 0-320 in a Tri
Pacer I recently sold. These units are not particularly cheap but they
are high quality and the factory support is very good and responsive.
They reduce the price quite a bit if you are installing it in an
experimental plane and don't require the STC paperwork. The basic kit
does not include the two hoses (AN-8 connections) which must be measured
and fitted for each particular installation. However they do sell the
hoses custom made to your length and type of connection (straight, 45
degrees, etc) and can deliver in two days --again not cheap but very
convenient.
I have a dynafocal mount and I mounted the filter on a plate of 1/8 inch
alum about 4in by 6in which is mounted by adel clamps to two arms of the
motor mount, right side, behind the engine. This makes the filter very
easy to get to and the filter drops straight down for removal and
replacement. You can mount it on the firewall but I wanted to
avoid standing on my head in the cockpit to mount a backing plate, drill
thru the firewall, mess up the insulation, etc.
I think a big advantage of this type of filter and mounting is the ease
of access. Much, much easier than removing the screen and no way near
as messy (I put a baggy over the old filter before removal and usually
catch 95 percent or more of the oil).
Goodluck. J. E. Rehler Flying RV6A Corpus Christi, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
Yeah Gary, I always suspected those fairings and wheel pants, too.
Bunch a hype, huh? ;)
For a little background, I suspect he was talking about some tips being
developed down near Bakersfield, CA. Steve Barnard was also doing
airflow analysis on the RV-6/6A airframe and was working on some newer
wingtips which gave him another 4-5 MPH. After going down and trying
out these other wingtips, he stopped working on his own, apparently
satisfied that the newer tips were either further along or had a better
speed gain.
I'd recommend "Speed with Economy" by Kent Paser as a good read. He
talks about improving exhaust systems, intake systems, cooling systems,
and aerodynamic cleanup.
If your top speed can increase close to 10-15 MPH by adding wheel pants
and landing gear fairings, why would you automatically doubt this claim
for the wingtips?
Mitch "of course, *you* are the one flying..." Faatz
RV-6AQME, hanging ailerons and flaps
>----------
>From: aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 1997 8:03 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tip Lights
>
>
>
><< I have a new low drag wing tip with a light kit. The tip is up to 8 MPH
> faster that the tip Van's sells. >>
>
>Funny, I don't see any cows - but I do smell....
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Conley" <John.Conley(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: empennage video for sale |
Do you still have the video's??
----------
> From: Ron Dunn <CompuServe.COM!72000.3470(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: empennage video for sale
> Date: Wednesday, April 02, 1997 11:31 AM
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am trying to recoup some tool outlay.
>
> Anyway, I have a copy of Orndorff's "RV CONSTRUCTION - EMPENNAGE" two
part set
> of videos for sale.
>
> These are very low time, like-new videos still in the original wrappers!
And
> these babies are the full feature instructions (not the pre-punched pansy
> series).
>
> Yours, K-Mart shoppers, for only one-half price!
>
> Send private E-mail (first come-first serve).
>
> Regards,
>
> Ron (still trying to adjust to the -8 fuselage sticker shock) #80078
> 72000.3470(at)Compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | IO-360-A1B6D for an RV-8 |
Hello All:
I'm a long-time subscriber and most-of-the time lurker. I've got a line on an
IO-360A1B6D engine for my RV-8 project. The price is right and I think I've
got my Cherokee sold so I'm pretty interested in it. A couple of questions
for the list's engine gurus:
1. This engine is the 1 hole into 2 mags variety. Could I install a single
mag. in the first hole and then an electronic ignition with the pickup near
the spinner for the second half of my dual ignition system?
2. Does it matter where the injector pump is located (front or rear) so that
the engine will fit within the cowl?
The engine is run-out and I'll at least attempt the overhaul on my own. This
"experimental" thing really is a learning experience!
Thanks in advance.
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: for studs only! |
| From: | gasobek(at)juno.com (Gary A. Sobek) |
This may sound stupid but I was tasked with removing a stud from a
Lycoming cylinder when I was in one of my Powerplant classes. I had the
same problem described below. The instructor had me HEAT the cylinder
head with a torch while I kept my other hand on the other side. It took
a long time to warm up. When it got too hot to hold, I then put my
wrench on the "two nuts" and screwed out the stud. I was shocked at how
long it took to heat the aluminum and how easy it came out with a little
heat.
I would not remove the studs if it is not necessary. It sounds like a
cover needs to be installed to cover the hole. I would consider using
the studs to secure the cover. I installed new studs to mount my started
and they were abut $30 for the set. Maybe I am lazy, but I do not like
doing things that are not necessary when they do not increase safety.
Good luck with what ever path is chosen. Please weigh my response with
all the others and do what is right for you.
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 20480 N157GS
AeroSPACE Electrical Engineer
FAA Licensed A & P
EAA Tech Counselor
>From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of kevin lane
>Sent: Monday, March 31, 1997 1:53 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: for studs only!
>
>
>Hope everyone doesn't think I'm cluttering up the list lately. Next
>question, removing studs from the engine block. I've tried screwing
>on two
>nuts, tightening them against one another and then attempting to
>extract the
>stud. When the torque approached stripping the nuts out I then tried
>putting a torch to the aluminum. This scares the hell out of me, not
>knowing how much and how fast I can safely heat things. I assume
>heating
>just the stud would have the opposite effect desired.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Thanks guys for the RMI info. That ends hunt for engine instrument. I think
I will go for the encoder too. Might as well jump in and see how the
electronics assembly water is for me. This will be RMI's test, if I can do
it, anyone can do it.
Thanks again, :^)
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Gary,
I talked to Steve Bernard at Copper State last fall after looking at a set of
these tips on John Harmon's Rocket. He said he had assisted testing these and
they in fact achieved, at minimum, a 6 mph increase. I respect Steve's
statement on this as he also sells tips and was impressed to the point of
freely stating the results. John stated that up to 10 mph had been achieved
in some of his tests.
Lopresti Speed Merchants also has a set of similar designed tips called "zip
tips" for some Piper products. A product announcment was in the Oct '96 Sport
Aviation claiming increased lift and 2-4 mph depending on model and power. For
the RV series aircraft, an average 8 mph increase would not seem unreasonable
with this type tip design.
You might be smelling the roses from the fertilizer!
Les/RV-6AQBME/tail & wings done, installing electric flap parts in fuselage.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of
aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 1997 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tip Lights
<< I have a new low drag wing tip with a light kit. The tip is up to 8 MPH
faster that the tip Van's sells. >>
Funny, I don't see any cows - but I do smell....
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing Construction tapes |
George
Are you able to order the RV-8 wing tapes over the inernet?
I've stoped over a couple of times while a was in DFW.
John Bunn
#80023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
> Say it ain't so! You're gonna hang a NOSEwheel on that beautiful
> airplane?! Don't do it!
>
> Regards,
> Tom Craig-Stearman
> tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
> RV-4 engine mount successfully drilled
> >>
>I thought Ken said a picture of the trike RV-8A was going to be in the next
>RVator.
>
>Jim Ayers
>LesDrag(at)aol.com
>4/1/97
>
Ken will need to use a lot of imagination (or maybe you will need to imagine
it), because the fuse is upside down in the jig, there is no engine mount,
no main gear mounts, etc. Work will pick up in pace now that the second -8
is flying and the fuse kit is done with the design. The fuse should start
shipping (for the -8) about the 3rd or 4th week in April. We have 50 sets
of parts on the shelf, less the weldments which are about 3 weeks out.
Manuals and plans are being worked on at this time. Bill
PS: There was probably some shock when the -8 fuse price was announced at
$4900. Just to let you know, we are using the same markup as the other
fuselage kits. That should give you some idea of the amount of work that
went into detailing this kit. The fuse contains the main gear legs, the
roll bar, the seat back weldment, electric flaps, more detailing in the
cockpit with quadrant mount, switch panel, forward baggage compartment and
thousands of holes. I think you will find it a real treat to assemble this
kit.
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 0-320-H Oil Filter Adapter |
<< Do any of you engine gurus know of a way to do this without installing
the Lycoming adapter and fitting assembly or are they the only game in
town? I am looking for a cheaper alternative. >>
I believe there are several different versions/manufacturers of the spin-on
filter adapter but most are priced comparatively with the Lyc. The only one
I've seen that is significantly different in configuration from the Lyc is
the B&C Specialties unit. I believe that it would be difficult to argue in
favor of the screen. As for the "cheaper" comment, all I can can say is that
Diogenes was looking for an honest man, so keep looking and let us know where
it leads.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
Maybe this could be George Orndorff's next adventure. How about an
O-320/O-360 rebuild video George? I think a lot of us would pay major money
if the video were highly detailed and able to lead the novice aircraft engine
builder (with normal automotive/scooter engine experience) thru the assembly
process. Think of the possibilities if Superior ever gets its kit engines
out.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Wing tip Lights/Paser's book |
>For a little background, I suspect he was talking about some tips being
>developed down near Bakersfield, CA. Steve Barnard was also doing
>airflow analysis on the RV-6/6A airframe and was working on some newer
>wingtips which gave him another 4-5 MPH. After going down and trying
>out these other wingtips, he stopped working on his own, apparently
>satisfied that the newer tips were either further along or had a better
>speed gain.
>
>I'd recommend "Speed with Economy" by Kent Paser as a good read. He
>talks about improving exhaust systems, intake systems, cooling systems,
>and aerodynamic cleanup.
Mitch,
I just read the article in April 97 Sport Aviation on fluid dynamics on
the RV-6. The article indicated a 2 kt increase for the Barnard tips, which
is very believable. The 8 mph sound like a bit of a stretch but I wish them
all the luck in the world. After seeing some of the speed claims for some
RVs, sometimes I get a little skeptical. That's one reason I'm a proponent
of the 3-way GPS formula from Kitplanes discussed on the list at length
awhile back. Comparisons would be a lot more meaningfull if everyone talked
the same language.
I enjoyed reading Paser's "Speed with Economy". Kent Paser certainly
increased the performance of his Mustang II. It sounded like he did one
heck of a lot of testing. However, this plane was built a long time ago
when the general craftsmanship of homebuilts was not near as good as it is
now. I don't mean to downgrade Kent's plane as it was originally
constructed but it may be possible that his plane (and others from that time
period) stood to benifit more from the various "enhancements" than examples
of later generations of homebuilts. In other words, I'm not sure that a
very well built RV-6 by today's standards could achieve the percentage
performance increase that Paser did on his Mustang.
Regards, Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)hcds.net> |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> > >washers how do identify washers such as 5702-95-30, 8702-73-60 etc. cant
> > >find it in my manual. TU
>
When I inventoried all my parts I remembered that my wife had a bunch of
those little plastic boxes with a dozen or so compartments which she
keeps all her buttons for sewing in. Next time she was a the fabric
store I had her pick up a few for me. They were about a buck a piece. A
whole lot cheaper than at the local hardware store. Anyway, While
dumping the contents of each bag and checking against the list I put the
nuts bolts and washers in the boxes and wrote on the lid with a sharpie
what it was. I also used Aircraft Spruce's and other cataloges to help
in the identification of the pieces.
Hope this helps
Gary Zilik
RV-6 S/N 22993
Starting fusealage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>
>
>> >washers how do identify washers such as 5702-95-30, 8702-73-60 etc. cant
>> >find it in my manual. TU
>
Columbia Airmotive (503) 665-4896 sells A/C hardware (actually supplies ACS)
and has large pictures in their catalog which helps identify many fittings
and such.
I find it ridiculous that there is no cross-reference between the hardware
and the components, or let me say I've not discovered one. Some of the bags
have a general description on the contents list, but many do not. I noticed
the other day a bag with perhaps a hundred pan head aluminum screws. I have
no idea what those are used for. There is a cross reference for components
and drawing numbers. It seems to me that someone knowledgable could do it
in a day. The info must be around in order to create those bags, right?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
Darrell L. Anderson wrote:
>
>
> I saw an ad in Western Flyer for a 2hr video "How to Overhaul
> Airplane Engines", $8.50 + $3 S&H , Seminar Publishers,
> 210 5th Ave., Suite 1102, New York, NY 10010, (410)321-7519
>
> Has anyone bit on this? Is it worth the money, educational,
> professionally done, etc.? The address alone makes me skeptical.
>
> Why hasn't someone published a "how-to" book on aircraft engine
> teardown/overhaul/buildup, similar to those published for automotive
> brand-specific engine buildup? There'd be a market.
>
> "Tony Bingelis on Engines" is great for installation tips, but not
> even a picture of engine internals. EAA's "Aircraft Powerplant Handbook"
> is heavy on general theory, if you're studying for the Powerplant "written"
> exam (as it used to be called).
>
> How about an experienced mechanic taking the Lycoming overhaul manual,
> put a run-out Lyc on a stand, and start snapping pictures of the whole
> procedure? Ly-ablility I suppose...
>
> D. Anderson
> Montana
THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO LIABILITY WHATSOEVER FROM WRITING A BOOK. IT
ABSOLUTELY AMAZES ME HOW MANY APPARENTLY INTELLIGENT PEOPLE HAVE BOUGHT
THIS TORT REFORM PROPOGANDA PUT OUT BY THE INSURANCE INDUSTRY AND
PHILLIP MORRIS. BEFORE ATTRIBUTING ALL OF THE WORLD'S WOES ON LAWYERS
AND THE CIVIL JUSTICE SYSTEM, ASK YOURSELF A FEW QUESTIONS:
1. HAVE YOU EVER BEEN TREATED FAIRLY BY AN INSURANCE COMPANY?
2. ASSUME YOU SPENT THE LAST TWO YEARS BUILDING YOUR RV. YOU ARE IN
THE PROCESS OF FLYING OFF THE FORTY HOURS AND STOP TO REFUEL. YOU LEAVE
THE PLANE IN THE PARKING AREA WHILE YOU EAT THAT $100 HAMBURGER AND SOME
DUMB FUEL TRUCK JOCKEY TOTALS YOUR PRIDE AND JOY. YOU RUN OUT AND HIS
RESPONSE IS "GEE, MAN, SORRY." YOU NEXT SPEEK TO HIS EMPLOYER AND THE
RESPONSE IS THE SAME. DO YOU CALL VAN'S AND ORDER A NEW KIT OR DO YOU
CALL A LAWYER?
3. ASSUME YOU ARE NEARING COMPLETITION OF YOUR RV AND DECIDE THAT YOU
ARE NOT CONFORTABLE PLACING YOUR PRIDE AND JOY BEHIND A USED ENGINE AND
SHELL OUT THE BUCKS FOR A BRAND NEW ONE. AT 50 HOURS THE CRANK FAILS
DUE TO A MANUFACTURING DEFECT OVER ROUGH TERRAIN AND THE PLANE IS A
TOTAL LOSS. LYCOMMING HONORS THEIR WARRANTY AND SHIPS YOU A NEW ENGINE
(THE WARRANT DOES NOT COVER "CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES" WHICH TRANSLATES TO
THE PLANE). DO YOU TAKE YOUR LUMPS OR DO YOU HIRE A LAWYER?
4. CONSIDER THE CASE OF A FRIEND OF MINE. HE WAS AN ATP, AIRLINER
CAPTAIN WITH OVER 9000 HOURS AND A PROFESSIONAL AIR SHOW PILOT. HE
DECIDED TO MOVE UP FROM HIS PITTS AND BOUGHT A $200,000 RUSSIAN PLANE TO
USE IN HIS AIR SHOWS ( I WON'T MENTION THE MANUFACTURER'S NAME). WITH
20 HOURS ON THE PLANE, WHILE PRACTICING AEROBATICS, THE PLANE PILED INTO
THE GROUND KILLING THE PILOT. THE NTSB DETERMINED THE CAUSE OF THE
CRASH WAS THE LOSS OF ELEVATOR CONTROL. THE BOLT HOLDING THE PUSH ROD
TO THE BELL CRANK FELL OUT DURING FLIGHT BECAUSE SOMEONE NEGLECTED TO
INSTALL THE COTTER KEY. INSPECTION OF THE BELL CRANK REQUIRED PARTIAL
DISASSEMBLY OF THE PLANE INCLUDING REMOVAL OF THE SEAT AND FLOF
PANNELS. tHE END RESULT IS THAT THIS MAN IS DEAD AND HIS WIFE IS NOW A
WIDOW. WHO SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE LOSS? THE PILOT OR THE IDIOT
WHO NEGLECTED TO INSTALL THE COTTER PIN? IS THIS THE RISK WE ALL TAKE
WHEN WE FLY? BY THE WAY, THE NTSB INSPECTED A HALF DOZEN OR SO OF THESE
PLANES -- SOME NEW ON THE IMPORTER'S SHOWROOM FLOOR AND SOME SOLD WITHIN
THE LAST FEW MONTHS -- THE COTTAR PINS WERE EITHER MISSING OR NOT BENT
OVER ON ALL PLANES INSPECTED. TO MAKE MATTERS WORSE, THIS MAN'S WIDOW
NOT ONLY LOSE HER HUSBAND AND HIS INCOME, BUT SHE IS STILL PAYING NOTES
ON THE PLANE!! OF COURSE IT WAS INSURED, BUT THE INSURANCE COMPANY IS
DENYING THE CLAIM PENDING FURTHER INVESTIGATION. THE ACCIDENT HAPPENED
JUST OVER ONE YEAR AGO.
YES, AS YOU MAY HAVE GUESSED, I AM A LAWYER. I PRIMARILY DO DEFENSE
WORK (INCLUDING DEFENSE OF A MAJOR HELICOPTER MANUFACTURER), BUT
OCCASSIONALLY DO PLAINTIFF WORK. BY AND LARGE THE SYSTEM WORKS. IT IS
NOT PERFECT, BUT IT IS THE BEST IN THE WORLD. SURE, THERE ARE A SMALL
PERCENTAGE OF CASES WHERE A UNDESERVING PLAINTIFF WINS OR A JURY AWARDS
SOME RIDICULOUSLY HIGH SUM OF MONEY, BUT THESE ARE USUALLY CORRECTED ON
APPEAL, WHICH DOESN'T MAKE HEADLINES AND THER ARE AN EQUAL NUMBER OF
CASES WHERE A PLAINTIFF WHO DESERVED TO WIN LOSES OR IS NOT ADEQUATELY
COMPENSATED. I AM SIMPLY TIRED OF LISTENING TO PEOPLE THAT DON'T KNOW
WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT BLASTING THE SYSTEM. THANKS FOR ALLOWING ME
TO BLOW OFF SOME STEAM. IF I OFFENDED SOMEONE, SEND ME E-MAIL DIRECT OR
LOOK FOR ME A SUN 'N FUN. I'LL BE ARRIVING IN A FRIEND'S RV-6 - WHITE
WITH RED AND BLUE TRIM - TAIL NUMBER N430AS. AS FAR A JUNKING UP THE
LIST, HALF OF THE REPLYS I HAVE SEEN OFER THE LAST FEW MONTHS ARE LITTLE
MORE THAN RUDE, ILL-THOUGHT OUT INSULTS. (YOU KNOW THERE IS NOTHING
WRONG WITH POLITELY TELLING SOME ONE THAT YOU DISAGREE.)
ROBERT MILLER
RGMILLER(at)SPRINTMAIL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Overhaul Video |
Darrell L. Anderson wrote:
>>>(Big Snip)
> How about an experienced mechanic taking the Lycoming overhaul manual,
> put a run-out Lyc on a stand, and start snapping pictures of the whole
> procedure? Ly-ablility I suppose...
>
> D. Anderson
> Montana
THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO LIABILITY WHATSOEVER FROM WRITING A BOOK. IT
ABSOLUTELY AMAZES ME HOW MANY APPARENTLY INTELLIGENT PEOPLE HAVE BOUGHT
THIS TORT REFORM PROPOGANDA PUT OUT BY THE INSURANCE INDUSTRY AND
PHILLIP MORRIS. BEFORE ATTRIBUTING ALL OF THE WORLD'S WOES ON LAWYERS
AND THE CIVIL JUSTICE SYSTEM, ASK YOURSELF A FEW QUESTIONS:
>>>(Bigger Snip)
HALF OF THE REPLYS I HAVE SEEN OFER THE LAST FEW MONTHS ARE LITTLE
MORE THAN RUDE, ILL-THOUGHT OUT INSULTS. (YOU KNOW THERE IS NOTHING
WRONG WITH POLITELY TELLING SOME ONE THAT YOU DISAGREE.)
ROBERT MILLER
RGMILLER(at)SPRINTMAIL.COM
Yip, Yip, YIP (Tail between legs...)
I was ASKING if liability was a problem.
Question answered...submit your bill.
D. Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing Construction tapes |
John ,
I can take your order either email or phone 817-439-3280....George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip strobes |
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com writes:
><< Does anyone have the addresses of Chief or RMD ?
> TFTI >>
>As it says in the FAQ, check the Yeller Pages at
>http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm for such repetitious info.
>-GV<
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mr Miller's comments |
Hi all:
Damn shame about the fella in the (un-named) imported a/c with the elev
bellcrank/pushtube attach failure. His widow deserves better, IMHO.
I want to know who the insurance company is, so I might buy elsewhere, if
possible. Can you publish this info?
BTW, what (info) are they waiting for, before paying the claim? I've always
thought of insurance companies as follows: Their job is to take your money.
Their claims are paid *as late as possible*, for a sum *as low as the
customer will stand*.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Fellow RVers,
I'm going to change over to Van's full swivel tailwheel. The main reason
for this (I am ashamed to admit) is because I didn't get the tailwheel
drilled on straight and it's been bugging me for two years.
The Aviation Products tailwheel that I have on my RV-6 sets the tail up
about 2 inches higher than Van's. Sometimes, on take off when I've got the
tail up and have flying speed, when I pull the stick back to rotate, the
tail wheel will roll along for awhile before I get airborne. It's kind of a
funny feeling and I've never had a taildragger that's done this before.
It's almost like the tail wheel is keeping the A/C from reaching the correct
angle of attack for a quick lift off. It doesn't seem like a couple of
inchs on the elevation of the tail would have that much effect on the AOA
but I figure that as long as I'm changing springs, I might as well give it a
try.
I ordered an un-drilled spring to be used with Van's full swivel
tailwheel. I am hoping to take my old spring to a machine shop, have them
somehow index the spring and hole and then place the new spring in the
fixture and drill a new hole so that the new spring hole lines up perfectly
with the hole in the fuselage weldment. Then, I'll install the spring on
the airplane, slide on the new tailwheel and----I think I'll try spot
welding the tailwheel to the spring with a bead of J-B weld. (I clamped the
tailwheel, before, and it must have slipped when I drilled it.) I'll then
remove the assembly and take it to a machine shop to have the hole for the
tailwheel drilled. Any ideas or comments? Thanks.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Tools for sale |
| From: | HARRY PAINE <HPair(at)ix.netcom.com> |
-- [ From: HARRY PAINE * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
------- FORWARD, Original message follows -------
Date: Friday, 28-Mar-97 07:32 PM
From: HARRY PAINE \ Internet: (hpair(at)thegrid.net)
Subject: Fwd: Tools for sale
-------
Subject: Tools for sale
TOOLS FOR SALE
Harry Paine
477 printz rd
Arroyo Grande Cal 93420
805-481-2524
90% angle drills 1/4 28 thread rebuilt---------------------- -----------
225.00*
45% angle drills 1/4 28 thread rebuilt -------------------- -----------
225.00*
Pistol grip small palm drill 3/8 chuck jiffy cleco IR rebuilt - 100.00**
3X & 4X Rivet guns C/P US Ind Cleco___ ________125.00
Drills 6" and 12" 1
.00 -2.00
Flush Rivet set with rubber guard extra wide 1 1/4 " wide much nicer than
Averys. This is the best I've even seen while they last $10.00
# 8 nut plate jig ..............................................
..........12.00
15 mil thick 3M Alum sound damping tape (used on 767) 9" wide not
available anywhere else other than 3M Sold by linear foot minimum 10' order
1.00/ln. ft.
All tools guaranteed 30 days or your money back. Items sold and shipped UPS
COD Cash or certified check.
** Limited Availability sold on a first come first serve basis.
* NEW EMAIL ADDRESS
Email Harry Paine @
hpair(at)thegrid.net
or call 805-481-2524 & leave message
------- FORWARD, End of original message -------
------- FORWARD, End of original message -------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Dunn <72000.3470(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Hi all,
Does anyone have first hand knowledge of the quality, or lack thereof, of Harbor
Freight's 12", 3/4 hp, variable speed bandsaw.
Unless somebody warns me, it sounds good enough to buy.
TIA
Ron (still in fuselage sticker shock)
#80078 - winging it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip strobes |
>
>><< Does anyone have the addresses of Chief or RMD ?
RMD Aircraft Lighting Inc.
503-648-0331
Bob DeBorde
This is an old # but I have no reason to believe he has changed it.
BTW Bob was a good guy to deal with. Absolutely get what you pay for IMHO.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Fred,
I didnt see an on-line response to your question, and since this interests
me also I thought I would jump in. Are you looking to assemble an engine
yourself or purchase something off the shelf? Have you spoken to someone at
Belted Air Power about their firewall forward package? If not Im sure they
would be willing to give you some info. Afraid I cant help with your
original question about part numbers, but if you get any feedback I would be
interested in seeing it.
Just out of curiosity, why would you replace the Lyc if you already have it?
FYI a local builder at EAA Chapt 14 should be performing his first test
flight on his cast iron 4.3L Chev powered Velocity within the next week. He
is using the Belted Air Power reduction drive and Ivoprop Magnum ground
adjustable prop.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Elon,
>
> I'm considering replaceing my O-320D1A with a Chevy 4.3 liter engine.
>I saw this posted a while back and wondered if these part numbers are
>for that engine. I'm trying to put together a list of the part numbers
>for this engine.... Do you have anymore infor for the Chevy 4.3 Liter
>engine?
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
> writes:
>>
>>Ernesto Sanchez wrote:
>>
>>As to the weight, the Buick weighs the same as an "all aluminum Chev
>>V-6". I like the Chev better but $4500 for a bare block and $3000+ for
>>
>>heads is too much!
>>
>>-----------------------------
>>Ernesto:
>>Chev p/n 14044802, aluminum cyl head, V-6 lists for $402.38 ea.
>>Chev p/n 10134394, Aluminum cyl head, V-6 lists for $1,350 ea.
>>The -394 head is patterned after the splayed valve big block and has
>>huge ports.
>>It is totaly unsuited for aircraft use. Other manufactures, Brodix,
>>Dart, etc sell heads for aprox $1k per pair.
>>
>>The aluminum Buick/Olds blocks are great motors. However, the mains
>>walk around quite a bit and
>>I would suggest looking into a set of ARP, custom, main bearing studs.
>>
>>I believe Rover bought all of the Buick tooling for its aluminum V-8.
>>
>>Spare parts should be available but might be meteric dims.
>>Elon
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HF 12" bandsaw |
Ron Dunn wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone have first hand knowledge of the quality, or lack thereof, of Harbor
> Freight's 12", 3/4 hp, variable speed bandsaw.
>
> Unless somebody warns me, it sounds good enough to buy.
>
> TIA
>
> Ron (still in fuselage sticker shock)
> #80078 - winging it
Ron,
Talk to Mitch Faatz, he bought one and is satisfied.
mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HF 12" bandsaw |
>
>Does anyone have first hand knowledge of the quality, or lack thereof, of
>Harbor Freight's 12", 3/4 hp, variable speed bandsaw.
>
>Unless somebody warns me, it sounds good enough to buy.
>
>Ron (still in fuselage sticker shock)
I returned mine ASAP (along with every other HF power tool save the $199 16"
drill press).
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>Can anyone suggest a way to cut the canopy with out so much risk of causing a
>crack?
>
Hey, Darwin: I have a Dremel Tool (actually a Sears equivalent) which I
almost recommend as a "must have" tool. I got some of their cut-off wheels
which are MUCH thinner and the Dremel tool spins it at a higher speed, and
is much more controlable. Mark the line, go for it. Take the temperature
warnings seriously and support the glass adequately. Do it on WARM days; I
did mine in the sun for just a little more solar heating and better
visability. I gently carved the base off and rough rounded the edges with
the hand-held belt sander (scary); then smoothed the edge to an almost
polished feel with 320 grit sandpaper. Seemed to take forever.
The Holes: I got a Plexiglass drill and was not satisfied with the results,
so I modified a standard drill bit by flattening the drill slope and taking
off the side edge. I practiced (on the waste base plastic) and modified and
practiced and modified until I came up with a bit that wouldn't "bite" the
plastic as it made the hole. Seems the edges of the drill bit were more of
a problem than the face. THEN.....I polished and rounded the edges of the
holes with a small fine Dremel grinding stone. THEN.....I polished the
holes further with small scraps of 320 sandpaper. Overkill? Perhaps, but
the holes and edges look like they were molded into the glass. The idea is
to not give the glass any areas of stress or edge chipping to allow a c%$#k
(don't say that word out loud close to your canopy) to start.
Hope this helps...........
Michael
mikel(at)dimensional.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>In the most recent crash, the front seat occupants of a Cessna 172 were
>both killed by head injuries even though they were belted in place. The
>rear seat occupant walked away....
Hey, Steve: Yikes! We have several things going for us in flying homebuilt
aircraft and one of them is the ability to put in a good restraint system (5
point in my mind is the only way to go: Yea, HOOKER!). I have flown C-172
in which the "restraint" systems were scarry. The "lap belt" came up from
the seat and went across the UPPER LEGS, for crying out loud. ANYONE can
tell you this was a lousy system. Most, for the longest time, didn't have
shoulder harnesses. Nice to see this is changing.
Michael
mikel(at)dimensional.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>
> The Aviation Products tailwheel that I have on my RV-6 sets the tail up
>about 2 inches higher than Van's. Sometimes, on take off when I've got the
>tail up and have flying speed, when I pull the stick back to rotate, the
>tail wheel will roll along for awhile before I get airborne.
> I ordered an un-drilled spring to be used with Van's full swivel
>tailwheel. I am hoping to take my old spring to a machine shop, have them
>somehow index the spring and hole and then place the new spring in the
>fixture and drill a new hole so that the new spring hole lines up perfectly
>with the hole in the fuselage weldment.
>
Hey, Bob: I always wondered what effect the "taller" tailwheel would have,
but thought it would mostly affect landing, i.e. dragging the tailwheel
along before the mains flop on. Any problems with that? I think it would
be more of a problem with the -4 as the gear is not as long. I've heard
comments about the -4 being "hard enough to three-point anyway without
complicating the situation by raising the tailwheel". (Comments welcomed)
Let us know if the indexing of the holes works as I think there are several
builders out there who would like to change tailwheels but don't want to
redrill another hole in the fuselage fitting.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: HF 12" bandsaw |
>
>Hi all,
>
>Does anyone have first hand knowledge of the quality, or lack thereof, of
Harbor
>Freight's 12", 3/4 hp, variable speed bandsaw.
>
>Unless somebody warns me, it sounds good enough to buy.
>
>TIA
>
>Ron (still in fuselage sticker shock)
>#80078 - winging it
>
>
Hey, Ron: Just make sure you can get replacement blades locally. It is
really a pain to have a saw (some Sears models) that you can't get the
blades you want for them. Usually there are places that will make them for
you. I heard the other day of a company that will send you all the
materials to make a new blade, including the torch to weld the blade.
I use my saw fairly often (don't cut steel) and, since it usually isn't used
for really accurate cuts, almost any saw will do. I worked for years with a
$65.00 Black and Decker model that I replaced as it was only a 6 inch.
Michael
mikel(at)dimensional.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Neeper <Russell.Neeper(at)net.tamu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: HF 12" bandsaw |
> ==> Ron Dunn <72000.3470(at)CompuServe.COM>
> Does anyone have first hand knowledge of the quality, or lack thereof, of
> Harbor Freight's 12", 3/4 hp, variable speed bandsaw.
I would not recommend it. The wheels are made of plastic using bronze
bushings instead of ball bearings. After a few weeks of light use, one
of the bushings became loose in the plastic wheel allowing it to wobble.
The blade would no longer even stay on the wheel. If the bushing hadn't
let go, then something else probably would have soon. The overall
quality was very poor.
------
Russell Neeper
russell(at)net.tamu.edu
RV6A - Working on second wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine instruments |
Gil Alexander wrote:
>
>
> >
> >The RMI system looks interesting as far as panel space and weight is
> >concerned. It would be a useful tool, but more so if they would have put a
> >selector switch EGT & CHT or made that an option.
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
> Denny, it is an option.
>
> The full wiring for a panel mounted selector switch (simultaneous
> switching of both EGT and CHT) is shown in the manual. It just needs a two
> pole, four way rotary switch in the panel (Westach #254-20-EDP, $28 from
> Aircraft $pruce would work) and, of course, 6 extra probes. What it does
> _not_ do is automatic scanning of multiple cylinders.
>
> *** snip ***
> >
> >Thanks all for info
> >denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
>
> ... hope this helps ... Gil (I built one) Alexander
>
> PS I are a elektronik injunear ...:^) and the RMI Engine Monitor is
> honestly the best kit I have ever seen, both in design and in packaging.
>
> ------------------------------------
> RV6A, #20701
> "REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
> mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
You can get the specified (RMI's spec) switch C&K A206-15 for $6.00 from
Allied electronics and save $22. 1-800-433-5700
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <DougR(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Cessna heated Pitot |
A good friend of mine has a Cessna heated pitot tube on an RV-6. It reads
airspeeds at around 20 kts slow at cruise. It seems more accurate at lower
speeds. Has anyone else had experience with this? He believes the it may
be mounted too far back on the wing.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Dougr(at)netins.net
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Thanks Ed, My kind of saving?
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip strobes |
> I guess most of the folks out there are probably so used to having the
> net working for them that they overlooked us guys who only have e-mail
> and can't get to the yeller pages.
The yeller pages has been posted to the list a few times in the past.
Maybe it's time to do so again, so people who don't have WWW access can
save it for their reference. Also perhaps Matt would consider adding
it to the FAQ....? Seems like a worthwhile addition to me.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Larry Mac Donald wrote:
>
>
> aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com writes:
> ><< Does anyone have the addresses of Chief or RMD ?
> > TFTI >>
> >As it says in the FAQ, check the Yeller Pages at
> >http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm for such repetitious info.
> >-GV<
> GV,
> I asked for the same addresses yesterday but have had no reply.
> I guess most of the folks out there are probably so used to having the
> net working for them that they overlooked us guys who only have e-mail
> and can't get to the yeller pages.
> Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
> >
If you have e-mail only and want to get internet access, most long distance providers
provide it for free. Just ask yours. I know that ATT and MCI provide 5 hrs/mo.
for
free to their long distance customers, and you can connect to a local number.
Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Wing tip Lights/Paser's book |
>
>
>> I just read the article in April 97 Sport Aviation on fluid dynamics on
>>the RV-6. The article indicated a 2 kt increase for the Barnard tips, which
>>is very believable. The 8 mph sound like a bit of a stretch but I wish them
>>all the luck in the world. After seeing some of the speed claims for some
>>RVs, sometimes I get a little skeptical. That's one reason I'm a proponent
>>of the 3-way GPS formula from Kitplanes discussed on the list at length
>>awhile back. Comparisons would be a lot more meaningfull if everyone talked
>>the same language.
Steve told me he had verified both his and the "Bakersfield" wing tips
by GPS, but I don't
remember if he did an upwind-downwind test or the three-leg trig test.
If I recall correctly
Steve was only claiming 2-4 mph gain with his wingtips, but he was also
claiming better
airflow over the ailerons and better lateral stability since his tips
were swept up some.
P.S. Does *everybody* receive their Sport Aviation and RVator before me?
;)
I'm not trying to build the fastest RV-6A by any means, but if I can
make a few changes
to get a 10-20 MPH for "free" and improve my fuel economy, I'm all over
it. It would take
a substantial gain in horsepower (and worse fuel economy) to do the same
with a bigger engine.
>>... I'm not sure that a very well built RV-6 by today's standards could
>>achieve
>>the percentage performance increase that Paser did on his Mustang.
I certainly agree with you there!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
<72000.3470(at)CompuServe.COM>
Hey I was trying to lay low on this one! I was happy with it until I
tried cutting my last piece of 1/8"
stock, I set up a fence and everything but the blade started to wander.
First time it happened that
bad, but I guess you *do* get what you pay for! I'm still moderately
satisfied, it hasn't thrown a blade
yet like some other cheap bandsaws I've borrowed. I think I made up a
few new words that night. It
has worked fine on most other things I've used it on, however. The
variable speed is nice and the
bands are a more common size than other cheap bandsaws use.
P.S. I've "seen the light" and use the Norton cut-off disk in a die
grinder much more now. That's what
I used on the 1/8" stock above after the blade started to wander. It
was slower, but what a nice cut.
Ed Cole once told me that if it can't be cut with a Norton disk, it has
no business being on your airplane.
>
>
>Ron Dunn wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Does anyone have first hand knowledge of the quality, or lack thereof, of
>>Harbor
>> Freight's 12", 3/4 hp, variable speed bandsaw.
>>
>> Unless somebody warns me, it sounds good enough to buy.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Ron (still in fuselage sticker shock)
>> #80078 - winging it
>
>Ron,
>Talk to Mitch Faatz, he bought one and is satisfied.
>mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com
>
>Ed Cole
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip strobes ... New Number |
The new number is 503-681-0685.
James E. Clark
RV6AQ ... Final wing skins
----------
> From: one.net!rust47rg(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tip strobes
> Date: Thursday, April 03, 1997 12:18 PM
>
>
> >
> >><< Does anyone have the addresses of Chief or RMD ?
>
> RMD Aircraft Lighting Inc.
> 503-648-0331
> Bob DeBorde
>
> This is an old # but I have no reason to believe he has changed it.
>
> BTW Bob was a good guy to deal with. Absolutely get what you pay for
IMHO.
>
> Regards:
> Rusty Gossard
> N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com (Rob Rimbold) |
| Subject: | Alan Tolle needs prop for Sun-N-Fun Race |
Alan Tolle is looking for a Pacesetter prop to use on his
rotary-powered RV during the Shell 3-D Dash race at Sun-N-Fun.
Evidently the prop he's using now isn't the optimum pitch. If you've
got a Pacesetter prop, 68 inches in diameter, with a pitch of 68 to 70
inches, and you're willing to let him use it during the race, please
contact me and/or bring it to Alan at Sun-N-Fun. The earlier the
better.
Thanks!
BTW: I'm leaving for Sun-N-Fun on Saturday morning.
'Rob
Rob Rimbold
561-489-0992
rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Mike & other Listers:
I have talked at length with Jesse Myers of Belted Air Power about the
Chevy V-6 4.3 liter engine installation. I'm rather convinced that this
is the
way I will go when I replace the Lycolming at TBO. Since I've flown 850
Hrs
in a little over three years, that won't be too far away. I figure that
if I start
on an alternative engine now, I'll have a drop in installation when the
Lyc
reached TBO.
Can you send me any address information on the guy with the 4.3L
Chev powered Velocity? I'd love to compare notes with him.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
Wills) writes:
>
>Fred,
> I didnt see an on-line response to your question, and since this
interests
>me also I thought I would jump in. Are you looking to assemble an engine
>yourself or purchase something off the shelf? Have you spoken to someone
at
>Belted Air Power about their firewall forward package? If not Im sure
they
>would be willing to give you some info. Afraid I cant help with your
>original question about part numbers, but if you get any feedback I
would be
>interested in seeing it.
> Just out of curiosity, why would you replace the Lyc if you already
have it?
> FYI a local builder at EAA Chapt 14 should be performing his first test
>flight on his cast iron 4.3L Chev powered Velocity within the next week.
He
>is using the Belted Air Power reduction drive and Ivoprop Magnum >ground
>adjustable prop.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 (wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Instruments |
The best way to do this would be with a solid state switch that sequences
the probes. It could be built on a small panel (large enough for 4 or 6
small lights plus one light for egt). The current light would indicate
which cylinder the MicroMonitor was reporting. In the event of failure, a
relay would default to the egt mode. You could even use the newer two
color bright LEDs. When green, it would indicate the probe that is active,
when red, it would indicate the hottest cylinder in the last scan. That
frill might take a cpu or PIC. The simple sequencer would not.
___________________
| 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 |
|_1_2_3_4_(5)_(6)_egt_|
If you could live without the numbers, a small LED bar display would make
it even easier (ever seen the flap indicator on a Katana?, same device).
Jerry Prado , RV6 22418, Wing
Gil Alexander wrote:
>
>
> >
> >The RMI system looks interesting as far as panel space and weight is
> >concerned. It would be a useful tool, but more so if they would have put
a
> >selector switch EGT & CHT or made that an option.
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
> Denny, it is an option.
>
> The full wiring for a panel mounted selector switch (simultaneous
> switching of both EGT and CHT) is shown in the manual. It just needs a
two
> pole, four way rotary switch in the panel (Westach #254-20-EDP, $28 from
> Aircraft $pruce would work) and, of course, 6 extra probes. What it does
> _not_ do is automatic scanning of multiple cylinders.
>
> *** snip ***
> >
> >Thanks all for info
> >denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
>
> ... hope this helps ... Gil (I built one) Alexander
>
> PS I are a elektronik injunear ...:^) and the RMI Engine Monitor is
> honestly the best kit I have ever seen, both in design and in packaging.
>
> ------------------------------------
> RV6A, #20701
> "REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
> mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
You can get the specified (RMI's spec) switch C&K A206-15 for $6.00 from
Allied electronics and save $22. 1-800-433-5700
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
SNIP
>Hey, Bob: I always wondered what effect the "taller" tailwheel would have,
>but thought it would mostly affect landing, i.e. dragging the tailwheel
>along before the mains flop on. Any problems with that? I think it would
>be more of a problem with the -4 as the gear is not as long. I've heard
>comments about the -4 being "hard enough to three-point anyway without
>complicating the situation by raising the tailwheel". (Comments welcomed)
>
>
>Michael
>
Yes, Yes, Yes but we deal with it. Thats why the new 4's have reconfigured
mains which raise the nose. Actually you get use to it, but I am also
thinking about switching to Van's tailwheel. It's alot easier workwise and
walletwise than changing the engine mount/gearlegs.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
>
>
>>
>> As a long time biker I enthusiastically wore a helmet in even the hottest
>> weather.
>>
>> However...........
>>
>> A helmet is going to do absolutely zip for you if the bird hits anywhere
>>below
>> the eyebrows ...
>
>I am interested in a helmet because I have been involved in the
>aftermath of several light aircraft accidents in which some or all of
>the cabin occupants died.
>
>I do not have medical training, but from the looks of their bodies all
>of them would have lived if they had not hit their heads on the inside
>of the cabin. The medical examiner concluded in each accident that all
>of the deaths were caused by head trauma, but he was not asked the "but
>for a helmet" question.
>
>
>Steve
Just my $0.02 worth on the subject:
Several years ago, while employed by a general aviation aircraft
manufacturer, I got to view some videos of NASA-Langley research into light
aircraft crash dynamics. Piper had donated a few Navajos that had been
damaged in a storm at Lock Haven to NASA for the purpose. These tests
featured video cameras both inside and outside the aircraft during the
impact sequence, and had instrumented dummies strapped in the seats. If
you watched the video taken outside the aircraft, after the crash it didn't
really look too damaged (the test was set up such that there wasn't a large
nose-down angle; it impacted relatively flat, as it might if it flew onto
the ground). It was the inside video that told the tale: upon impact, the
ceiling of the aircraft buckled downward enough to effectively break the
necks of the dummies; then it sprang back up to almost its pre-impact
geometry. Obviously, if this had been real with live people in it, they
would have been very much like the victims Steve witnessed. There's still
an awful lot to learn about crash dynamics.....
Bill MIlls
Wichita
STILL RV-8 dreaming, Club Bonanza flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>Hey, Bob: I always wondered what effect the "taller" tailwheel would have,
>but thought it would mostly affect landing, i.e. dragging the tailwheel
>along before the mains flop on. Any problems with that? I think it would
>be more of a problem with the -4 as the gear is not as long. I've heard
>comments about the -4 being "hard enough to three-point anyway without
>complicating the situation by raising the tailwheel". (Comments welcomed)
>
>Let us know if the indexing of the holes works as I think there are several
>builders out there who would like to change tailwheels but don't want to
>redrill another hole in the fuselage fitting.
>
>Michael
Michael,
To tell you the truth, 90%+ of my landings are wheel landings or "tail
wheel low" wheel landings. I don't do many full stall, three pointers.
There are aocuple of reasons for this. First, I just seem to have better
luck wheel landing. I feel that this is the best landing procedure for
conditions that are generally found here in Nebraska---gusty crosswinds that
vary 10-40 degrees. I generally carry a little extra airspeed to allow for
the gusts. It seems like if I land with a little extra airspeed and plant
the mains on I can get a better feel for how the landing is going to
terminate. In other words, you kind of have a choice on when to pin the
tail down. If a gust happens to hit while the tail is still up, you're
closer to flying speed so that a go around can be done. It would be great
to live in an area where airports have several runways, but such is not the
case, here.
I think another reason I like to wheel land is because of the visibility
on touch down. I wear Varilux lenses and in three point, when I raise my
head to look over the glare shield, everything in the distance is a blur. I
just bought a pair of bifocals, the kind with little windows in them as
opposed to a line all the way across. I'm going to test fly them and see if
I can see out the side better and maybe my depth perception will be better
and I will be able to do a little better on my 3 points.
I'll let the list know how mounting the new tail wheel and spring works out.
Regards, Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna heated Pitot |
>
>A good friend of mine has a Cessna heated pitot tube on an RV-6. It reads
>airspeeds at around 20 kts slow at cruise. It seems more accurate at lower
>speeds. Has anyone else had experience with this? He believes the it may
>be mounted too far back on the wing.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>Dougr(at)netins.net
>http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
Doug,
I don't have any experience with this setup, but offer the following:
1. Maybe there is a pitot system leak. Do a leak check. I am not
qualified to suggest how to do one.
2. Maybe the airspeed indicator is faulty. Have the indicator calibrated
or borrow another one and see if the results are the same.
3. Is the static source on the pitot tube? The air pressure under the wing
will be a bit higher than the ambient pressure, but a 20 kt error at 150 kt
works out to 0.135 psi error in the static pressure (assuming no errors
anywhere else in the system). I am not an aerodynamicist, but I think that
the actual pressures under the wing are apt to be less than 0.135 psi above
ambient. So, I don't think that the error is solely due to location of the
pitot tube.
4. To see if it is a static source location problem - hook up a tee fitting
and a couple of valves. One side of the tee goes to a valve and then to
the static source. The other side of the tee goes to a valve and then to a
temporary alternate static source in the cockpit. The cockpit air should
be slightly less than ambient pressure. If the static source is the
problem, it must be slightly higher than ambient pressure. Set the
aircraft up in cruise, then switch to the alternate static source. If the
airspeed increases by 20 kts or more, then you have found the problem. If
not, then keep looking.
Good luck,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
Maybe someone can give me a tip for how countersinks are supposed to
work.
I'm countersinking the spar flange for the tank attach screws. I went
out and bought a countersink with the #20 pilot that fills the hole
well. I can do decent countersinks for 30/40 sized holes.
Why in the hell can't I do bigger ones? Whether or not I put the bit in
the hole all the way first and then gun it or approach it spinning, try
it fast or slow they make the worlds WORST out of round chattered "star"
or square shaped holes. The bit is brand new and clean. I even tried
running a little oil on it (I was getting desperate).
I cleaned up all the holes with a single flute deburring tool (that
thing is really foolproof) so they are smooth now but not really "round"
Have others had problems with this? I don't want to do the row on the
top until I know something different.
Thanks in advance,
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mr Miller's comments |
aol.com!Mlfred(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi all:
>
> Damn shame about the fella in the (un-named) imported a/c with the elev
> bellcrank/pushtube attach failure. His widow deserves better, IMHO.
>
> I want to know who the insurance company is, so I might buy elsewhere, if
> possible. Can you publish this info?
>
> BTW, what (info) are they waiting for, before paying the claim? I've always
> thought of insurance companies as follows: Their job is to take your money.
> Their claims are paid *as late as possible*, for a sum *as low as the
> customer will stand*.
>
> Mark
Mark:
I don't know the insurance company off hand, but will find out this
weekend. I was contacted not as a lawyer in that case, but as a
potential witness. The insurance company's investigator wanted to know
if I ever hear my friend discuss problems with the plane or if I saw him
work on the plane. Quite frankly, I cannot imagine how either can be a
defense to a claim by his own insurer. There is absolutely no question
that THIS WAS NOT SUICIDE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skymike(at)juno.com (Michael E. Lynch) |
Hi...I'm new to this board. Am building an RV6A and have the horiz stab
almost ready to come out of the jig. I had to trim the right skin
(leaving more than enough for the 1/2 inch required for stab tip) to get
it in the jig. I trimmed using a standard set of shears and am not happy
with the slight "rippling" left on the stab skin. I'm concerned how to
do the final trim, once the stab is out of the jig. I'm experimenting
with a new set of offset shears from Sears, and they seem to work much
better, but wonder if it's my technique causing the problem, or if
there's a better way. Any suggestions out there?
Mike in San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
Dear Bob,
Your tailwheel plans sound good to me. I am going the same route
with a change to my quickbuild tailwheel.
Ron Vandervort, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Product Liability |
To all those whom I offended and or caught their attention:
1. Sorry about the all caps. I wasn't pissed off; just didn't realize
all caps were taboo.
2. When I responded, I had been awake scratching for over 30 hours,
having learned for the firt time that I am allergic to prescription
cough medicine with codine.
3. My response was no so much a reply to the original post, but a reply
to a rather legnthy thread a few weeks back blasting lawsuits for the
high cost of Lycomming engines. In my opinion, the whole thread missed
the boat. Of course, no one wants to pay the $3000 per engine Lycomming
attributes to product liability, but the basic facts of life are that
quite frequently when airplane engines fail, a lot of damage is done.
At the very least, an expensive a/c is destroyed - - not to mention the
damage to property on the ground, personal injury and death. One way or
the other, Society pays these costs. If we didn't pay it in the price
of an engine, our insurance rates would be higher. As it currently
stands, if your engine fails and results in damage to the plane, after
your insurance pay you, it will turn around and sue Lycomming. If it
couldn't, we would all pay higher insurance rates.
4. Also, I recently saw some jerk on television blaming the world's
woes on "frivilious lawsuits." One example given of a frivilous lawsuit
was a suit filed by a flying club against the estate of a skydiver.
Allegedly, the skydiver screwed up and instead of gently landing in the
target area, he landed rather hard on top of a relatively new Bananza,
killing himself and causing over $150,000.00 damage to the Bonanza.
This speaker tought that it was appauling that this flying club had the
nerve to sue this poor dead man. I guess he thought the club should
have "understood" -- and keep paying the notes for the next 25 years.
5. Finally, I have had enough of this thread. Can we move on to
building planes?
Robert Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Darwin wrote:
Can anyone suggest a way to cut the canopy with out so much risk of causing a
crack?
----------------------------------------
Mike wrote:
I gently carved the base off and rough rounded the edges with the hand-held belt
sander (scary); then smoothed the edge to an almost polished feel with 320 grit
sandpaper. Seemed to take forever.
Michael
mikel(at)dimensional.com
--------------------------------------
That polish is easy if done with a small torch, or other flame source like a
Bernzomatic. Play the torch along the roughly sanded edge and watch it turn to
a
smooth, stress free, glossy finish! Pratice on scrap first!
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Mike Wills wrote:
Fred,
I didnt see an on-line response to your question, and since this interests me also
I thought I
would jump in. (Fred's stuff snipped)
------------------------------------
Chev p/n 14044802, aluminum cyl head, V-6 lists for $402.38 ea.
Chev p/n 10134394, Aluminum cyl head, V-6 lists for $1,350 ea.
The -394 head is patterned after the splayed valve big block and has huge ports.
----------------------------
Sorry Mike, I did not think there would be much interest and replied to Fred privately.
Yes, Those part numbers fit the 4.3L V-6.
For anyone considering a GM engine V-8 or V-6, (60 or 90 degree) you should get
at least two
books at the GM dealer. There are many other good books on performance mods to
Chevy small blocks
but get these two first. These books have more numbers that a C-17 POH. No other
performance
book will have more part numbers than these two books.
Revisions cycles are unpredictable but are usually every two years. CAUTION: GM
high performance
parts numbers CHANGE FREQUENTLY. Try to get the latest edition. My versions are
1994 & costs
are in $1994 dollars.
1) Chevrolet Power, seventh edition, HP Books, 2/94, $19.95
2) GM Performance Parts Catalog, Revised Feb 1994, GM Corp. $6.95
Good luck,
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stephen Jackson Soule <ssoule(at)vbimail.champlain.edu> |
Fred (and others), I have what is probably a dumb question. Does the
Chevy V-6 bolt on to a standard Van's engine/nose gear mount for the
RV-6A or do you have to make your own as part of the engine conversion?
BTW Fred, I hope to see you again at the RV get together at Fulton
County next Fall.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.Dieck/T.J.Dieck" <dieck(at)dwave.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Instruments |
Jerry H. Prado wrote:
>
> The best way to do this would be with a solid state switch that sequences
> the probes. It could be built on a small panel (large enough for 4 or 6
> small lights plus one light for egt). The current light would indicate
> which cylinder the MicroMonitor was reporting. In the event of failure, a
> relay would default to the egt mode. You could even use the newer two
> color bright LEDs. When green, it would indicate the probe that is active,
> when red, it would indicate the hottest cylinder in the last scan. That
> frill might take a cpu or PIC. The simple sequencer would not.
I've been thinking the same thing. Problem is I don't have the expertise
to design the thing. Perhaps someone could design such a switch make
plans available?
Bob
The Airplane Factory
Robert & Tammie Dieck
Wausau WI USA
dieck(at)dwave.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HinkleyC(at)fca.gov |
| Subject: | Spar Countersinks |
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent
the policy or position * * * *
* * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * *
Mike wrote:
Maybe someone can give me a tip for how countersinks are supposed to work.
I'm countersinking the spar flange for the tank attach screws. I went out
and bought a countersink
with the #20 pilot that fills the hole well. I can do decent countersinks
for 30/40 sized holes.
Why in the hell can't I do bigger ones? Whether or not I put the bit in
the hole all the way first and
then gun it or approach it spinning, try it fast or slow they make the
worlds WORST out of round
chattered "star" or square shaped holes. The bit is brand new and clean.
I even tried running a
little oil on it (I was getting desperate).
I cleaned up all the holes with a single flute deburring tool (that thing
is really foolproof) so they are
smooth now but not really "round"
Have others had problems with this? I don't want to do the row on the
top until I know something different.
Thanks in advance,
-Mike
Mike,
This was a point of contention with us as we tried to figure out how to
make the holes round. The building directions provided by vans suggest that
you install the platenuts first, however with the platenuts installed you
can't get a countersink with a #19 or #20 pilot to go in deep enough to cut
anything, they run into the platenuts. I think that's why the directions
suggest that you use a countersink with a #30 pilot, the holes will start
out slightly out of round and then the pilot will be centered by the
platenut as the pilot goes into the threads of the platenut. The pilot
will be into the threads in .030 to .040 well before the countersink gets
through the .063 spar. So when you are finished the holes will be round.
Those countersink holes are very large to accept the #8 dimple.
Curtis Hinkley
RV8 80015
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
<3344B155.6BFD(at)worldnet.att.net>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Elon,
Thanks for the info on the books. I'll check with my local parts
distributor ASAP....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
***** SNIP *******
>For anyone considering a GM engine V-8 or V-6, (60 or 90 degree) you
>should get at least two
>books at the GM dealer. There are many other good books on performance
>mods to Chevy small blocks
>but get these two first. These books have more numbers that a C-17
>POH. No other performance
>book will have more part numbers than these two books.
>
>Revisions cycles are unpredictable but are usually every two years.
>CAUTION: GM high performance
>parts numbers CHANGE FREQUENTLY. Try to get the latest edition. My
>versions are 1994 & costs
>are in $1994 dollars.
>
> 1) Chevrolet Power, seventh edition, HP Books, 2/94, $19.95
> 2) GM Performance Parts Catalog, Revised Feb 1994, GM Corp. $6.95
>
>Good luck,
>Elon
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Skin |
Michael E. Lynch wrote:
>
>
> I trimmed using a standard set of shears and am not happy
> with the slight "rippling" left on the stab skin.
>
> Mike in San Antonio
Hi Mike,
I also had this problem. I found a set of Pro-Snip straight hand
shears (the ones with the yellow handle) at Wal-Mart I forget what they
cost. They do a much better job than the Wiss shears that I bought at
Avery's (they leave a ripple). You can only cut one way with these
shears. The work has to be on your right and the waste on your left. If
you will look at these shears, one side has small teeth to grip the
material and the other side are smooth. Use the smooth side to the work
i.e the teeth on the scrap side. I cut about 1/16" outside the line then
trim to the line with a vixen file. I just cut the forward top skin on
my -4 and they did a very nice job (no ripples). Hope this helps.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
To All,
Becki and I or about to over haul a o-360-A1A for our RV-8 so of you on
the list have asked if we coould do a video on this. It cost about $2000 to
just edit a 3 hour video . How ever if there is enough builders interested
in this we may do it. Please write me direct at ( orndorffg(at)aol.com ) and let
me know...George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Gray <klgray(at)bihs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna heated Pitot |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
> A good friend of mine has a Cessna heated pitot tube on an RV-6. It reads
> airspeeds at around 20 kts slow at cruise. It seems more accurate at lower
> speeds. Has anyone else had experience with this? He believes the it may
> be mounted too far back on the wing.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> Dougr(at)netins.net
> http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
I just got finished installing the Cessna type pitot tube on my RV6.
The results are almost the same. Low speeds are more stable and the
high speeds are indicating less than the tube pitot. But not more than
10 mph. I did experience an increase in speed, please no flames as this
is not tested, I did not expect an increase but did get it. I do know
flying the same day with the tube type and changing to the Cessna type,
I was able to get the MP lower to indicate the same RPM in the plane. I
have a 150hp lyc with the Warnke prop 70X70. This prop likes to stay at
2500 rpm, at full power at 1000 agl, it turns only 2500. Changing out
the pitot tube, I can exceed 2600 rpm. Living here in aggie country,
were they do wind tunnel test every day, I talked to some of folks and
they say the round tube will cause a lot of drag.
Anyway I like the new pitot tube, because the low speeds are much more
stable and this is the very important to me. I can live with a lower
high speed indication.
Ken Gray
Bryan, Tx.
N69KG 230 hours since Jan 96.
Having so much fun, cann't get it painted.
________________________________________________________________________________
<3344CE90.43AF(at)vbimail.champlain.edu>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Steve,
No, it doesn't, but Belted Air Power has special mount that allows you to
put the V-6 on the same firewall mounting holes. The mount is made
by the same peaple who make Van's standard mounts.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Fred (and others), I have what is probably a dumb question. Does the
>Chevy V-6 bolt on to a standard Van's engine/nose gear mount for the
>RV-6A or do you have to make your own as part of the engine
>conversion?
>
>BTW Fred, I hope to see you again at the RV get together at Fulton
>County next Fall.
>
>Steve
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>That polish is easy if done with a small torch, or other flame source like a
>Bernzomatic. Play the torch along the roughly sanded edge and watch it
turn to a
>smooth, stress free, glossy finish! Pratice on scrap first!
>Elon
I used the little gray Scotchbrite disk on a right angle air drill to
polish up the edges of plexy and it seemed to work fairly well. Practice on
scrap. I used the scrap to practice drilling, countersinking, finishing
edges, etc. It's kind of funny, but I kicked, slid and generally banged
around the scrap and it never broke. One piece finally did when I slammed
it to the floor. But just look at the "keeper" piece sideways and it may
crack. No cracks on mine after 350 hours, thank goodness.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Skin |
>almost ready to come out of the jig. I had to trim the right skin
>(leaving more than enough for the 1/2 inch required for stab tip) to get
>it in the jig. I trimmed using a standard set of shears and am not happy
>with the slight "rippling" left on the stab skin. I'm concerned how to
>do the final trim, once the stab is out of the jig. I'm experimenting
>with a new set of offset shears from Sears, and they seem to work much
>better, but wonder if it's my technique causing the problem, or if
>there's a better way. Any suggestions out there?
>
>Mike in San Antonio
Mike,
I like to use a "Sandcat" hand held belt sander to file down to the final
line. I also use it to clean up shear edges on thicker metal, i.e. spars,
etc. because I think the "V" deburring tool does a better job (less chatter)
if the edges are smoothed, first. I use shears for the rough cut allowing
enough distance that by the time I get done with the belt sander, all of the
"teeth" marks from the shears are gone.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Instruments |
>
>Jerry H. Prado wrote:
>
>> The best way to do this would be with a solid state switch that sequences
>> the probes. It could be built on a small panel (large enough for 4 or 6
>> small lights plus one light for egt). The current light would indicate
>> which cylinder the MicroMonitor was reporting. In the event of failure, a
>> relay would default to the egt mode. You could even use the newer two
>> color bright LEDs. When green, it would indicate the probe that is active,
>> when red, it would indicate the hottest cylinder in the last scan. That
>> frill might take a cpu or PIC. The simple sequencer would not.
>
>I've been thinking the same thing. Problem is I don't have the expertise
>to design the thing. Perhaps someone could design such a switch make
>plans available?
>
>Bob
Yes, I thought that was an excellent idea. As you could probably tell, I was
worried about assembling the RMI kit. Although I was worried about
assembling the RV-6, I have made lots mistakes that had to be corrected, but
the education and the gained skills has been great. All my aviation
professional life was flying them, I should have done this 40 years ago.
Maybe this electronics thing will work out as well.
denny h.
________________________________________________________________________________
Looking thru the archives on canopy installation, I found a thread
that started back in May of 1996 concerning the size of
plexiglass holes. It looked to me like the consensus was 5/32 or
3/16 holes in the plexi for 1/8" screws/rivets.
What's been the experience of you folks who have completed the
canopy and seen a few temperature cycles? Was 1/16" oversize big
enough to prevent cracks?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
There has been some talk here on the wing tips. I'm trying to get as clean
an airplane as I can. More for the cheap cruise than being fastest in the
west. I purchased some wing fairings, pants and gear leg fairings from Tracy
Saylor and Sam James and they look good. The wing tips interest me.
I'm looking for "Speed with Economy" by Kent Paser, Where do I look?
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)konza.flinthills.com |
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
>
>Maybe someone can give me a tip for how countersinks are supposed to
>work.
>
>I'm countersinking the spar flange for the tank attach screws. I went
>out and bought a countersink with the #20 pilot that fills the hole
>well. I can do decent countersinks for 30/40 sized holes.
>
>Why in the hell can't I do bigger ones? Whether or not I put the bit in
>the hole all the way first and then gun it or approach it spinning, try
>it fast or slow they make the worlds WORST out of round chattered "star"
>or square shaped holes. The bit is brand new and clean. I even tried
>running a little oil on it (I was getting desperate).
>
>I cleaned up all the holes with a single flute deburring tool (that
>thing is really foolproof) so they are smooth now but not really "round"
>
>Have others had problems with this? I don't want to do the row on the
>top until I know something different.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>-Mike
>
>Mike,
I also didn't like the way mine were coming out on the spar flange
so I got a #8 dimple die set from Avery's and did my second wing spar for
the nutplates with that. There are only a couple of places that you have to
countersink. I am much more happy with the results.
Tim
RV4 2/3 done with second wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <joe(at)flnet.com> |
Looking for a used Koppers aeromatic model 200 propeller.
Please reply to joe(at)flnet.com
Joe/bellcrank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
>Why in the hell can't I do bigger ones? Whether or not I put the bit in
>the hole all the way first and then gun it or approach it spinning, try
>it fast or slow they make the worlds WORST out of round chattered "star"
>or square shaped holes. The bit is brand new and clean. I even tried
>running a little oil on it (I was getting desperate).
>
>I cleaned up all the holes with a single flute deburring tool (that
>thing is really foolproof) so they are smooth now but not really "round"
>-Mike
Mike,
From a previous post:
I assume you are talking about machine countersinking the front row of fuel
tank screw holes. I used the #8 screw counter sink cutter in the micro stop
countersink. You might be able to use the #30 and countersink wide enough
to match the #8 screw. Measure the width of the #8 screw and countersink
accordingly. When it looks like you're close, drill out the hole to accept
the screw. If you need a little more, you could use a cutter in the swivel
handle. You might want to try this on the bottom of the tank (less visible
in case a mistake is made). I'd recommend buying the appropriate cutter but
I think the method mentioned above could work.
***Whichever method you use, I would recommend that you get a piece of
scrap, drill the appropriate hole for the pilot diameter that you are using
and clamp this to the tank to hold the pilot when you machine countersink
each hole. Otherwise, you're liable to end up with oblong holes as the
material isn't thick enough to hold the pilot accurately.***
Good luck, Mike.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Added J-Channels |
I added 2 extra J-channels on the fuselage bottom for stiffening. They span
from F606 to F610. Some RV-listers had commented earlier that it would add
some unwanted extra weight. For the weight watchers:
Added weight was 58 grams = 0.13 pounds, and I assumed 0.02 pounds for
rivets. The arm was 162.5 inches (using Van's datum) and moment was 24.4
inch-pounds. This pushed the typical CG aft 0.01 inches, which I can
certainly live with. I think the mod was worth it.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Mr Miller's comments |
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
BTW, what (info) are they waiting for, before paying the claim? I've always
thought of insurance companies as follows: Their job is to take your money.
Their claims are paid *as late as possible*, for a sum *as low as the
customer will stand*.
Mark
And, I'd like to add: *and sue the first deep pocket that
they can tack some blame on to recoup the settlement payment.*
D. Anderson
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
<< I'm countersinking the spar flange for the tank attach screws. I went
out and bought a countersink with the #20 pilot that fills the hole
well. I can do decent countersinks for 30/40 sized holes.
Why in the hell can't I do bigger ones? Whether or not I put the bit in
the hole all the way first and then gun it or approach it spinning, try
it fast or slow they make the worlds WORST out of round chattered "star"
or square shaped holes. The bit is brand new and clean. I even tried
running a little oil on it (I was getting desperate). >>
Mike-
If you are using a 3-flute c'snk and a hand drill motor you will have the
most problems getting a good c'snk shape. The three flute cutters under
insufficient hand applied force (BTW they work fine in a drill press) will
chatter once and then the cutter will follow any irregularity and then dig
two others just like the first one at 120 and 240 degrees from it. Then
you're screwed.
I've found the single flute and 5-flute types to be much easier to use with a
hand drill. I have not used the AVERY cone type with the hole in it so I
cannot comment.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leif Stener <jamtcom(at)pocab.se> |
| Subject: | Directional gyro |
Hi all RV-builders. I=B4m locking for a transverter 14v - 115v 400Hz
to a AIM slaved dir.gyro with part no:254-1E. You can E-mail dir.
Leif Stener, building wing RV-6 in Sweden
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
<< I'm countersinking the spar flange for the tank attach screws. I went
out and bought a countersink with the #20 pilot that fills the hole
well. I can do decent countersinks for 30/40 sized holes. >>
We use the #30 c/s to do these holes, after the nutplate is installed.
Good luck!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Let us know if the indexing of the holes works as I think there are
several
builders out there who would like to change tailwheels but don't want to
redrill another hole in the fuselage fitting.
Michael
>>
Seems to me, you (actually, your machinist buddy) could modify your existing
tailspring to accept the newer tailwheel. A local builder handled the install
that way, and he's had no problems so far.
The Van's design is a bit better than the Av Products unit, in that it has an
oilite bushing for the (knigpin?) pivot. Too bad for me, as I have the Av
products unit on my bird.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
When Belted Air Power comes on-line with their setup (I'm not sure when
they will begin selling/delivering) they will have a complete firewall
forward package including engine mount. I believe the mount is made by the
same sub-contractor who makes Vans Lyc mounts.
If you havent seen Belted Air's RV-6A, you should. The engine install
looks very clean and professional. There is some info and pictures available
at http://SportFlyer.com/frameset.htm under the engines heading.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Fred (and others), I have what is probably a dumb question. Does the
>Chevy V-6 bolt on to a standard Van's engine/nose gear mount for the
>RV-6A or do you have to make your own as part of the engine conversion?
>
>BTW Fred, I hope to see you again at the RV get together at Fulton
>County next Fall.
>
>Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Yeller Pages Update |
boundary="PART.BOUNDARY.0.16743.emout06.mail.aol.com.860172141"
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.16743.emout06.mail.aol.com.860172141
This posting of the Yeller Pages is for those of you that are unable to get
them online at http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
-GV
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.16743.emout06.mail.aol.com.860172141
name="AV1.TXT"
RV BUILDERS' YELLER PAGES
PLEASE TELL THESE SUPPLIERS YOU FOUND THEM IN THE RV BUILDERS' YELLER PAG=
ES
REVISED BY G. VANREMORTEL vanremog(at)aol.com 04/03/97
ACTION AIR PARTS INC 810-364-5885 METAL WORKING TOOLS
AEROELECTRIC CONNECTION (BOB NUCKOLLS) 316-685-8617 http://www.southwind.=
net\~aec ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INFO
AERO ENGRAVERS 805-984-7967 PANEL ENGRAVING
AERO SOUND SHIELD 818-374-5355 VACUUM DEPOSITED IR SHIELDING FOR CANOPIES=
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AIRCRAFT REMANUFACTURING 619-749-0239 infobot(at)pdsig.com BJ NASH'S OUTFIT
AIRCRAFT SPRUCE 800-824-1930 714-870-7551 http://www.aircraft-spruce.com =
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AIRSTAR 800-AIR-STAR 510-516-1188 CONTROL CABLE SADDLE CLAMPS AND UL PART=
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AIRTECH 510-685-4809 WING TIP LIGHT SYSTEMS =
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AIRWOLF FILTER CORP 800-326-1534 216-632-5136 REMOTE SPIN-ON OIL FILTERS
ALCOR 800-354-7233 TCP/TPP ADDITIVE MFR
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ARCHANGEL AVIONICS 334-826-8008 GLASS COCKPIT DISPLAYS
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AUDIO FLIGHT AVIONICS 800-737-9185 http://www.rose.com/!afa VOICE ALERTIN=
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AVERY ENTERPRISES 800-652-8379 817-439-8400 averytools(at)aol.com SHEET META=
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AV/GRAFIX 800-352-2296 CUSTOM AIRCRAFT GRAPHICS AND PHOTO-ENGRAVED PLACAR=
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AVIATION DEV CORP 800-944-3011 206-546-3011 REMOTE OIL FILTER AND CHIP DE=
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AVIDYNE 617-674-9300 GLASS COCKPIT DISPLAYS
AVPAC 800-228-1836 P/N 492-037 SHUTTLE VALVES AND OTHER PARTS
BARNARD AIRCRAFT COMP 916-676-5601 FAST BUILD RV WING KITS =
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B&C SPECIALTY PRODUCTS 316-283-8000 ALTERNATORS/STARTERS AND ELECTRICAL S=
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BELTED AIR POWER 702-384-8006 VORTEC V6 CONVERSION FOR RVs
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BON AERO 209-795-2363 FASTENERS AND FITTINGS
BROWN AVIATION TOOL SUPPLY 800-587-3883 405-495-4991 browntool(at)aol.com SH=
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CARLINGSWITCH 800-243-8556 203-793-9281 VARIOUS PANEL SWITCHES
CHIEF AIRCRAFT 800-447-3408 541-476-6605 chief(at)magick.net AIRCRAFT SUPPLI=
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CLEAVELAND TOOLS 800-368-1822 515-432-6794 clevtool@tdsi.net http://www.c=
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CLEVELAND/PARKER HANNIFIN 800-BRA-KING WHEELS AND BRAKES
COLUMBIA AIRMOTIVE 503-665-4896 COMPACT OIL COOLERS AND AIRCRAFT HARDWARE=
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CONTROL VISION 800-292-1160 316-231-6647 http://www.controlvision.com EXP=
BUS DC LOAD CENTER
COPPER ISLAND AVIATION 604-675-4428 RV FLOAT KIT DEVELOPER
COURTAULD'S AEROSPACE 800-332-7686 PRIMERS, COATINGS, SEALANTS
DAVTRON INC. 415-369-1188 5-FUNCTION DENSITY ALTITUDE GAUGE
D&D AIRCRAFT SUPPLY 800-468-8000 603-926-8881 AIRCRAFT HARDWARE
DIGIKEY 800-344-4539 http://www.digikey.com ELECTRONIC PARTS
DMA INC. 713-379-5430 DIGITAL INSTRUMENTS
DON'S AIRCRAFT SALVAGE 615-761-3571 ENGINE PARTS
DUCKWORKS (DON WENTZ) 503-543-2298 RV LANDING LIGHT KITS
DYNAMIC PROP BALANCING 800-562-7746 PROP BALANCING
EAR COMPOSITES 317-692-1111 NOISE CONTROL FOAMS =
EARL'S PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS 310-609-1602 RACING FITTINGS AND HOSES
EASY PUBLISHING 505-865-3466 PFPA(at)aol.com 16 YEARS OF THE RVATOR BOOK
EDN AVIATION 818-993-4495 BACKLIT PANEL OVERLAYS
ELECTROAIR (JEFF ROSE) 423-622-8825 ELECTRONIC IGNITION
ELECTRONICS INTL 503-628-9113 DIGITAL GAUGES
ELECTROSYSTEMS INC 334-227-8306 AIRCRAFT STARTERS
EMI 800-851-4392 918-234-7300 REFURBISHED AIRCRAFT GOVERNORS AND STUFF
ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS 918-492-5844 HFentonTUL(at)aol.com AIRCRAFT OIL ANALYSIS=
EXECUTIVE ENGINEERING 954-485-0177 ELECTRONIC PANEL LIGHTING AND CLEARANC=
E RELAY
EXP AIRCRAFT ASSN 414-426-4800 OUR GREAT ORGANIZATION
FAA AIRCRAFT REGISTRY 405-954-4206 REGISTRATION NUMBERS
FASTENING HDWR SUPPLY 716-681-1675 STAINLESS AND OTHER FASTENERS
CARL FICH 360-699-1800 COMPLETED RV FUEL TANKS
FLIGHT SUITS LTD. 800-748-6693 FLIGHT SUITS AND HELMETS
MARK FREDERICK 512-219-8467 mlfred(at)aol.com DISCOUNTED AEROFLASH DISTRIBUT=
OR
FREEMAN AVIATION 404-227-2602 AIRCRAFT PARTS
STEVE FREY ENG 610-692-3553 RV FUSELAGE JIGS
FUMOTO ENGINEERING 206-869-7771 OIL DRAIN VALVE T-202N FOR <$20
GALL'S 800-477-7766 P/N U-FS028 WIG WAG FLASHERS
GENUINE AIRCRAFT HDWR 805-239-3169 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
GRAND RAPIDS TECHNOLOGIES 616-531-4893 ENGINE INFORMATION SYSTEM
WARREN GRETZ 303-770-3811 HEATED PITOT TUBE MTG BRKTS
GROUND TECH 800-825-1245 CUSTOM COWL PLUGS AND COVERS
JOHN HAEHN 307-367-6522 RV4 SLIDING CANOPY KITS
HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS 800-423-2567 805-445-4791 JUST TOOLS CHEAP
HARTZELL 513-778-4388 PROPS
HEADSETS INC. 800-876-3374 806-358-6336 http://members.aol.com/anrsets AC=
TIVE NOISE REDUCTION RETROFIT KIT
HONEYWELL-MICROSWITCH 800-537-6945 815-235-6847 HIGH QUALITY SWITCHES
HOOKER HARNESS 815-233-5478 SAFETY HARNESSES
HORIZON INSTRUMENTS 800-541-8128 714-526-1919 GRAPHIC INSTRUMENTS
H&S AVIATION 503-324-6993 RV COMPONENT BUILDER
IAP 800-443-9250 307-266-3838 STANDARD AVIATION MAINTENANCE HANDBOOK
INNOVATING TECHNOLOGY 360-779-9373 http://www.silverlink.net/innov FEED A=
ND RETURN FUEL SELECTOR
INSIGHT INSTRUMENT CORP 716-852-3217 GEM ENGINE MONITOR
INTERACTIVE SOLUTIONS 208-323-8724 interacsol(at)aol.com PANEL PLANNER SOFTW=
ARE
SAM JAMES AIRCRAFT 941-675-4493 RV WING FAIRINGS AND PANTS
J.C. AERO SUPPLY 707-452-8041 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
JEGS AUTOMOTIVE 800-345-4545 AUTOMOTIVE PARTS
J.P. INSTRUMENTS 714-557-5434 http://www.jpinstruments.com SMALL DIGITAL =
INSTRUMENTS
KAYNAR MFG CO 714-871-1550 THE PLATENUT MANUFACTURER
KIT AIRCRAFT BUILDER 800-827-5070 KAB MAGAZINE
RICH KLEE 916-863-1927 LANDING LIGHT BLINKER
KS AVIONICS 510-785-9407 EGT/CHT MONITOR AND MIXTURE MIZER
KS ELECTRONICS 619-605-1149 Ksimmons(at)isat.com POTENTIOMETER CONTROLLER FO=
R MAC SERVOS =
LANDOLL 405-392-3847 STARTERS, DAMPERS, ALTERNATORS
DJ LAURITSEN 515-432-6794 SEATS
LIGHTSPEED ENGINEERING (KLAUS SAVIER) 805-933-3299 ELECTRONIC IGNITION
LONDON AND ASSOCIATES 503-543-3986 PREBUILT RV FUEL TANKS
LONESTAR AVIATION 817-548-7768 http://cust.iamerica.net/lsa CYCLONE FAN A=
ND EMI FILTERS
LONG-LOK FASTENER CORP 800-LONG-LOK 513-772-1880 SELF-SEALING SCREWS
LY-CON 209-651-1070 PERFORMANCE ENGINE MODS AND REBUILDS =
MATRONICS 510-606-1001 http://www.matronics.com/ FUEL FLOW COMPUTER/SERVO=
SPEED CONTROL/RV-LIST ARCHIVE CDROM
McMASTER-CARR 310-692-5911 INDUSTRIAL HARDWARE AND MATERIALS
MENZIMER AIRCRAFT COMP 619-598-0592 SERVOS AND STICK GRIPS
FAA METAR 202-267-7770 FAA/ASY-20 96/001 METAR PUBLICATIONS
MIKE'S AERO 707-965-2411 ENGINE SERVICE
R.A.MILLER INDUSTRIES 616-842-9450 http://www.rami.com ANTENNAE
MOUNTAIN HIGH EQUIPMENT 800-468-8185 PULSE DEMAND OXYGEN SYSTEMS
MS INSERTS 408-946-6565 FASTENERS AND RELATED HARDWARE
MSC 800-645-7270 INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES
NARCO 215-643-2905 AVIONICS
NAT 250-763-2232 INTERCOMS
NATIONAL 800-628-4636 AIRCRAFT INSURANCE
NATIONAL HOSE 713-920-2030 AEROQUIP INDUSTRIAL HOSE
NATIONAL TEST PILOT SCHOOL 805-824-2977 ntps(at)ntps.com TEST PILOT COURSES
NAVAID DEVICES 423-267-3311 TRACKING SINGLE AXIS AUTOPILOT
NORTHWEST AERO PRODUCTS 206-735-5022 AIRCRAFT HARDWARE AND PSRUs
N-PARTS 800-444-3305 LYCOMING REPLACEMENT PARTS
OIL ANALYSIS 918-492-5844 ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS KITS
OLANDER 408-735-1850 FASTENERS AND TOOLS
OLDS ENTERPRISES 501-965-7835 RV LANDING LIGHT KITS
OLLIE (NO COMPANY NAME YET) 805-872-0847 CUSTOM RV WINGTIPS
OREGON AERO 800-888-6910 COCKPIT COMFORT ITEMS
G&B ORNDORFF 817-439-3280 orndorffg(at)aol.com RV VIDEOS, SEATS AND MISC
PHLOGISTON PRODUCTS INC 503-985-3212 PREASSEMBLED RV WING SPARS
JEFF POSCHWATTA 206-639-1212 MR. LYCOMING
PRECISE FLIGHT 541-382-8684 PULSELITE SYSTEM
PRECISION AIRMOTIVE 206-353-8181 OEM CARBURETORS
PS ENGINEERING 800-ICS-AERO 423-988-9800 http://www.ps-engineering.com AU=
DIO PANELS
RADIO SYSTEMS ENG 916-272-2203 http://www.rst-engr.com KIT AVIONICS
REED MFG 541-471-6289 BLADDER BUSTER RV WING TANKS
BOB REIFF http://www.execpc.com/reiff AIRCRAFT ENGINE PREHEATERS
RELIANCE AVIONICS 602-917-8034 BUS GUARDIAN CHARGING SYSTEM MONITOR
RICH INDUSTRIES 520-758-2777 STAINLESS STEEL HOSE FITTINGS
RICK ROBBINS 303-422-9389 HEAT MUFFS
RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING 503-681-0685 RV WING TIP LANDING LIGHTS
ROCKY MTN INSTRUMENT 307-864-9300 http://www.rkymtn.com MICRO-ENCODER =
RV FLIGHT BAG 503-648-3464 RV PARAPHERNALIA
SACRAMENTO SKYRANCH 800-433-3564 916-421-7672 http://www.sierra.net/skyra=
nch AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
TRACY SAYLOR 805-933-8225 FIBERGLASS RV GEAR LEG FAIRINGS
MIKE SEAGER 503-429-5103 RV FLIGHT TRAINING
BILL SCOTT 502-684-1083 LYCOMING VALVE TRAIN PROBLEM INVESTIGATOR
SEAL PACK 316-942-6211 PROSEAL IN SMALL KITS
SHADIN INC. 800-328-0584 612-927-6500 FUEL MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS
T.A. SHULGIN CO. 510-228-2512 STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS AND HOSE ASSYS
SIGMA-TEK INSTRUMENTS 316-775-6373 http://www.sigmatek.com VACUUM PUMPS A=
ND GYROS
SIMPLIFLY 770-579-6880 VOICE ALERTING SYSTEM
SKYBOLT AIRMOTIVE 407-889-2613 AIRCRAFT FASTENERS
SKYFORCE 703-502-7820 http://www.skyforce.co.uk SKYMAP GPS/MOVING MAP
SKYLINE AVIATION 800-535-8640 810-635-8724 RV ROLLING TOWBARS
SKYSPORTS INTL 800-247-7883 http://www.usaol.com/YP/aviation/SkySports_In=
ternational.html INSTRUMENTS, CAPACITANCE FUEL GAUGES
SKY-TEC 800-476-7896 817-573-2250 LIGHT WEIGHT STARTERS
SOFTCOM 800-255-2660 602-917-2328 HEADSETS AND INTERCOMS
SOUNDCOAT 516-242-2200 NOISE CONTROL PRODUCTS
SPENCER AIRCRAFT 206-763-0800 AIRCRAFT HARDWARE
SSAC 315-638-1300 http://www.ssac.com KRD3120B ADJ ALTERNATING RELAY FOR =
FLASHING LIGHTS
STEALTH TECHNOLOGIES 888-333-5933 AIRCRAFT ALARM SYSTEMS
STEEN AERO LAB 704-652-7382 U.S. HOFFMAN PROP IMPORTER
DOUG STENGER 503-324-6993 RV SUBASSY BUILDER
SUMMIT RACING EQUIP 330-630-0230 AUTOMOTIVE PERFORMANCE ITEMS
SUPERIOR AIR PARTS 800-487-4884 LYCOMING ENGINE KITS
SURVIVAL PRODUCTS 954-966-7329 EMERGENCY LIFERAFT
TBO ADVISOR 800-707-4826 203-834-0330 ecurrent(at)aol.com AIRCRAFT ENGINE IN=
FO AND OIL FILTER MAGNETS
TEMPERFOAM 402-470-2346 TEMPERFOAM
TEXTRON LYCOMING 717-323-6181 LYCOMING TECHNICAL SUPPORT
THOMPSON AND COOKE 800-666-8005 301-864-6380 L-649 ADJUSTABLE REAMERS
TPS AVIATION 510-475-1010 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
USHER INDUSTRIES 503-647-0015 OEM RV FUEL CAPS
UNITED PLASTICS CORP 800-537-9724 UHMW TAPE AND MISC PLASTICS
U.S. TOOL 800-521-7394 313-455-3388 BUILDER'S TOOL KITS
VAN'S AIRCRAFT 503-647-5117 info@vansaircraft.com http://www.vansaircraft=
=2Ecom RV PREPUNCHED AND QUICKBUILD KITS
VARGA ENTERPRISES 800-966-6936 CUSTOM FUEL AND OIL HOSES
VETTERMAN HIGH COUNTRY 303-932-0561 RV EXHAUST SYSTEMS
VISION MICROSYSTEMS 360-398-1833 DIGITAL ENGINE MONITORS
WAG AERO 800-558-6868 414-763-9586 AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
WARNER PROPELLER 520-294-5671 REBUILT GOVERNORS AND PROP STUFF
WATKINS AVIATION 214-934-0033 FLIGHT HELMETS AND OTHER STUFF
WEST MARINE 800-538-0775 BOATING SUPPLIES FOR AIRPLANES
WHELEN ENG 203-526-9504 AIRCRAFT LIGHTING SYSTEMS
J.C. WHITNEY 312-431-6102 AFTERMARKET AUTOMOTIVE STUFF
WICKS AIRCRAFT 800-221-9425 618-654-7447 EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT SUPPLIES
BILL WILLIAMS TOOL CO. 817-838-2601 SURPLUS AEROSPACE TOOLS
WOODWARD/SMALL AIRCRAFT CONTROLS 815-624-4400 PROP GOVERNOR MFR
THE YARD 800-888-8991 TOOLS
YING LING AIRCRAFT 800-835-0083 AIRCRAFT PARTS
=0D
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.16743.emout06.mail.aol.com.860172141--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Yablon" <brian(at)lanart.com> |
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
>
> I can do decent countersinks for 30/40 sized holes.
>
> Why in the hell can't I do bigger ones?
Hi Mike,
Fluted countersink bits rely on the pilot tip to keep the bit running
straight without chattering. This is the case when you start to
countersink a hole. But as the cutting flutes reach the bottom of
the pilot hole and enlarge it, the pilot tip on the cutter no longer
holds the bit centered. When the centering is gone, chattering
begins.
Why do bits chatter? As you contersink, a cutting flute digs into
the material and momentarily binds on the side of the hole. The
point where the bit binds becomes the new center of rotation of the
bit, (causing the bit to rotate off center). The rotation continues
until another cutting flute grabs the hole and binds at a different
spot. The original flute breaks free and the process repeats. It
turns out that as the bit rotates, it tends to find the old ruts that
it dug. This results in a hacked up countersunk hole.
The solution is to keep the bit centered in the material, even as the
cutting flutes reach the bottom of the hole. This can be done by
providing some back-up material (a piece of wood or something) to
keep the pilot centered as the countersunk is made. I use this
method with great results.
Another option is to use a "chatter-free" countersinking bit. Avery
sells a high-hook countersink that uses a single cutting surface that
eliminates chatter. He also has a 6-flute countersink that has
staggered flute angles which ostensibly "eliminate the harmonics that
cause chatter in conventional cutters". Check out pages 35 and 63 in
the 1997 catalog. I have not used either of these solutions, however.
-Brian Yablon brian(at)lanart.com
RV-6A #24571
Framingham, MA
Getting ready to prime the wing spars...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Yablon Position: Hardware Engineer
LANart Corporation Internet: byablon(at)lanart.com
145 Rosemary Street, Suite D1 Ma-bell: (617) 444-1994 x206
Needham, MA 02194 FAX: (617) 444-3692
LANart: Difference by Design
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
> I'm countersinking the spar flange for the tank attach screws. I went
> out and bought a countersink with the #20 pilot that fills the hole
> well. I can do decent countersinks for 30/40 sized holes.
You need to back up the holes with some thick material. The pilots on
these bits have a tendency to elongate the hole unless the part is
pretty thick (.063 or greater). Take some .063 or 1/8" thick scrap,
drill a clean #20 hole in it, use a #20 bit to align the holes, and
clamp the backup piece to the work. This is tedious to do for every
hole, but it works. Also good for those places where you have to
over-countersink a hole for whatever reason.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Skin |
>I trimmed using a standard set of shears and am not happy
> with the slight "rippling" left on the stab skin. ....... but
> wonder if it's my technique causing the problem, or if
> there's a better way. Any suggestions out there?
>
Mike,
I make all my long cuts with a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. The
tool is cheap, and you can easily freehand to within 1/8" of the
line. Then use a good Vixen file to bring it to the line. Sounds
like lots of work, but it is actually Very easy.
Aloha,
Russ Werner
Maui Hawaii USA
mailto:russ(at)maui.net sends to me
mailto:RV-List(at)matronics.com sends to the RV List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Speed with Economy |
Paser Publications, Kent Paser
5672 West Chestnut Avenue
Littleton, CO 80123, USA
(303) 979-3666
$24.95 per book (add 4.8% tax if CO resident)+ $3.50 S+H ($5 for Air
mail)
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | big ugly countersunk holes |
I experienced the problem and switched to a battery operated low cost
electric screw driver. It turns the cutter at a very low speed, does
not chatter and it makes wonderful counter sunk holes! I do not use a
countersunk depth cage, but check the hole for proper depth at least
twice for each hole. You will be amazed at how quick you can do this
task and how accurate you will become at getting the proper depth. I
also use the #30 pilot countersunk cutter, three flute.
Warren Gretz
Denver area
gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Speed Mods- Kent Paser |
For his book on speed mods contact
Kent Paser
5672 W. Chestnut Ave.
Littleton, CO (???zip)
(303) 904-3417
Warren Gretz
Littleton, CO
gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna heated Pitot |
Are you guys with Cessna heated pitot tubes using the original mounting
pylon or a custom one? The Cessna mounts are generally a lot shorter
than the 5-6" that Van's recommends. Also I think in most cases the
Cessna tubes are mounted farther forward on the wing than the standard
location on Van's planes, which might make up for the shorter mount.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | immelmann(at)themall.net (Ed Holyoke) |
>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills)
>
> When Belted Air Power comes on-line with their setup (I'm not sure when
>they will begin selling/delivering) they will have a complete firewall
>forward package including engine mount. I believe the mount is made by =
the
>same sub-contractor who makes Vans Lyc mounts.
Will they also offer a mount for the taildragger? I'm not sure that I
want to be forced to decide between 6 and 6a while building the wing
and before making a final decision on powerplant.
Ed Holyoke=20
RV-6 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
George-
You have my vote for the Lyc O-360-A1A engine video. I think you could do a
masterful job. The EAA could also add it to their library. How about the
rest of you folks on the list that are not A&Ps, is there enough interest?
Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna heated Pitot |
<< A good friend of mine has a Cessna heated pitot tube on an RV-6. It reads
airspeeds at around 20 kts slow at cruise. It seems more accurate at lower
speeds. Has anyone else had experience with this? He believes the it may
be mounted too far back on the wing. >>
I have a Cessna heated pitot on my RV and it is dead accurate. It came with
a mounting plate which was not compatable with the location indicated on the
plans so I mounted it where it would have the same flight path as the
relative wind. It is mounted on the RIGHT wing about mid-chord and mid span.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Skin |
Try a router with an 1/8" bit. It works great, and is very fast.
Hovans home page has more info.
Chris
>
> >I trimmed using a standard set of shears and am not happy
> > with the slight "rippling" left on the stab skin. ....... but
> > wonder if it's my technique causing the problem, or if
> > there's a better way. Any suggestions out there?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>I'm looking for "Speed with Economy" by Kent Paser, Where do I look?
>denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
Denny, From a previous post:
Thought I'd pass this along for what it is worth. His book is about
170 pages documenting how he made his plane more efficient over a number of
years. If
you want to find the current cost, etc his address is
Paser Publications
5672 West Chestnut Ave
Littleton, CO 80123
303-979-3666
Hope this helps,
Bill Costello
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
Is there a particular reason you are countersinking the spar flange? As
I recall the forward row of tank screws get countersunk into the fuel
tank skin/baffle sandwitch where the aluminum is thick enough. and the
rear row of screws gets dimpled in the skin and spar flange and uses
dimpled plate-nuts. The .040 spar flange is not thick enough to machine
countersink for a #8 screw.Also I used the Avery "Close Quarter 8-32
Screw Dimpler Kit" to dimple my spar flange and It worked well.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Skin |
Michael E. Lynch wrote:
I trimmed using a standard set of shears and am not happy with the
slight "rippling" left on the stab skin. I'm concerned how to do the
final trim, once the stab is out of the jig.
Hi Mike:
If you have a router with a straight cut carbide bit, it will do a
nice job for you. Securely clamp a straight board at the proper set back
from the finished line to act as a fence for the router. Run the router
along the board and you will be pleased with the results. A little
sanding to take of the square edge and you will have a nice straight
edge.
I have been using the same carbide bit for the Empennage and wings and
it shows little wear so far.
hope this helps, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Ed,
Recommend you talk directly to Jess Meyers at Belted Air Power for further
info. I dont want to spread any inaccurate information. The number that I
have is: 702-384-8006
email: webmaster(at)tansoul.com
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Will they also offer a mount for the taildragger?
>Ed Holyoke
>RV-6 tail
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | heated pitot mounting |
If you want to mount surplus Cessna, or a new pitot tube to your RV,
contact me. I sell mounting bracket kits for heated pitot tubes.
I am listed in the Yeller Pages, contact me and I will send a flyer of
the product.
Warren Gretz
3664 E. Lake Dr.
Littleton, CO 80121
(303) 770-3811 evenings or weekends
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cowel braces |
Several years ago it showed up in an RVator to BRACE the front of the cowel,
from a brace mounted on the starter and one from the engine mount to the
bottom of the cowel. My questions: 1. How many flyers are using the braces?
2. Should the front brace (starter mounted) actually touch the cowel and, if
not, how much gap should be allowed. This is allowing for "engine droop".
Michael
RV-4 232SQ
mikel(at)dimensional.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Torches (was: Canopy) |
> That polish is easy if done with a small torch, or other flame source
> like a Bernzomatic. Play the torch along the roughly sanded edge
> and watch it turn to a smooth, stress free, glossy finish! Pratice
> on scrap first! Elon
I've now ended up with three different BernzOMatic torches, including the two-
tank oxygen torch. Being a bit of a Pyro (left over from my Boy Scout days),
is there anything you can do about the incredibly short life of the oxygen
cylinders? I was experimenting with cutting a chunk of scrap metal and got
maybe 1.5" of cutting before the O2 ran out. At $8 a pop for 10-20 minutes
worth of oxygen, I might be better off taking the thing back and getting a
full blown oxy-Acetelyne rig, even though I don't do much welding, yet.
(Or can these things be clandestinely re-charged, the way our scout troop did
the propane cans?)
(Oh, and I got an adapter hose that goes from a Gas Grill bulk tank to a can-
like fitting, it makes the cheap torch much easier to handle, and it'll last
for days....)
--
The greatest tragedy is that the same species that achieved space flight,
a cure for polio, and the transistor, is also featured nightly on COPS.
-- Richard Chandler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Advice Needed - Moving RV and Family To Seattle |
There is a very good chance that I will be accepting a job offer in the
downtown Seattle area. Since I will need to buy a home that is relatively
close to an airport ( for my RV ), I am wondering if anybody can give me
some recommendations. I will also need to find a home for my 27 foot
sailboat, so any of you RV / sailors out their, wheres a good marina ? I
will be in the Seattle the first part of next week if anybody wants their
gas tanks and stomach filled, in trade for an overhead view of the area. RV
builders take note, any overhead views will be rewarded in same with you at
the controls of my RV, if I move out.
Thanks in advance to all who respond !
Scott Johnson
847-985-3772
Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
RV6A N345RV Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Instruments |
R.Dieck/T.J.Dieck wrote:
>
>
> Jerry H. Prado wrote:
> >
>
> > The best way to do this would be with a solid state switch that sequences
> > the probes. It could be built on a small panel (large enough for 4 or 6
> > small lights plus one light for egt). The current light would indicate
> > which cylinder the MicroMonitor was reporting. In the event of failure, a
> > relay would default to the egt mode. You could even use the newer two
> > color bright LEDs. When green, it would indicate the probe that is active,
> > when red, it would indicate the hottest cylinder in the last scan. That
> > frill might take a cpu or PIC. The simple sequencer would not.
>
> I've been thinking the same thing. Problem is I don't have the expertise
> to design the thing. Perhaps someone could design such a switch make
> plans available?
>
> Bob
> The Airplane Factory
> Robert & Tammie Dieck
> Wausau WI USA
> dieck(at)dwave.net
Bob,
One thing to remember when working with thermocouples is that they
generate very low voltages (40mv = 1000 deg C). I've been looking into
multiplexing the 4 EGT probes myself as I'm a test Engineer who works on
Multiplexers and Analog Switches for Maxim Integrated Products. I'll let
everyone know if I get a circuit that works.
A good book on the subject is available free from Omega.
Ask for their "Complete Temperature Measurement Handbook and
Encyclopedia"
Omega Engineering, Inc.
P.O. Box 2284
Stamford, CT 06906
1-800-826-6342
Ed Cole RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
The flame polishing technique of Elon's can also save a piece with a small
edge crack. I successfully fused a crack together in my Old's Landing
light lens using the technique. Practice on scrap first though, because it
requires a gentle touch.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: Elon <worldnet.att.net!elon.o(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
> Date: Friday, April 04, 1997 1:54 AM
>
>
> Darwin wrote:
> Can anyone suggest a way to cut the canopy with out so much risk of
causing a
> crack?
> ----------------------------------------
> Mike wrote:
> I gently carved the base off and rough rounded the edges with the
hand-held belt
> sander (scary); then smoothed the edge to an almost polished feel with
320 grit
> sandpaper. Seemed to take forever.
> Michael
> mikel(at)dimensional.com
>
> --------------------------------------
>
> That polish is easy if done with a small torch, or other flame source
like a
> Bernzomatic. Play the torch along the roughly sanded edge and watch it
turn to a
> smooth, stress free, glossy finish! Pratice on scrap first!
> Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
Michael Angiulo wrote:
>
>
> Maybe someone can give me a tip for how countersinks are supposed to
> work.
>
> I'm countersinking the spar flange for the tank attach screws. I went
> out and bought a countersink with the #20 pilot that fills the hole
> well. I can do decent countersinks for 30/40 sized holes.
>
> Why in the hell can't I do bigger ones? Whether or not I put the bit in
> the hole all the way first and then gun it or approach it spinning, try
> it fast or slow they make the worlds WORST out of round chattered "star"
> or square shaped holes. The bit is brand new and clean. I even tried
> running a little oil on it (I was getting desperate).
>
> I cleaned up all the holes with a single flute deburring tool (that
> thing is really foolproof) so they are smooth now but not really "round"
>
> Have others had problems with this? I don't want to do the row on the
> top until I know something different.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> -Mike
Mike,
As you counter sink the big #8 holes the countersink opens the pilot hole
until the pilot no longer has a hole to set in. As such, the countersink
will wander wallow, and chatter. The trick is to get a thick piece of
metal with a #19 pilot hole and clamp it behind your original hole. With
this method, the pilot always has a home and the countersinks look great.
I learned this after some ugly countersinks in the spar.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Skin |
Michael E. Lynch wrote:
>
>
> Hi...I'm new to this board. Am building an RV6A and have the horiz stab
> almost ready to come out of the jig. I had to trim the right skin
> (leaving more than enough for the 1/2 inch required for stab tip) to get
> it in the jig. I trimmed using a standard set of shears and am not happy
> with the slight "rippling" left on the stab skin. I'm concerned how to
> do the final trim, once the stab is out of the jig. I'm experimenting
> with a new set of offset shears from Sears, and they seem to work much
> better, but wonder if it's my technique causing the problem, or if
> there's a better way. Any suggestions out there?
>
> Mike in San Antonio
Mike,
Use a cutoff tool with a Norton wheel. Trimming is a breeze with it and
the cuts are clean.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Overhaul Video |
I'd buy one just to learn how they work inside!
> George-
>
> You have my vote for the Lyc O-360-A1A engine video. ... is there
> enough interest?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
The RV8 plans say very clearly NOT to dimple the spar flange. I'm
positive of that. Don't know if it is because the material is thicker
or what, but I must do the countersink.
-Mike
Making unique countersinks...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HF 12" bandsaw |
A>
>> Does anyone have first hand knowledge of the quality, or lack thereof, of
Harbor
>> Freight's 12", 3/4 hp, variable speed bandsaw.
>>
>> Unless somebody warns me, it sounds good enough to buy.
>>
>> Ron (still in fuselage sticker shock)
>> #80078 - winging it
>
>Ron,
>Talk to Mitch Faatz, he bought one and is satisfied.
>mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com
>
>Ed Cole
Look at one before you buy.
Or I'll be happy to part with mine for $50.00.
Charlie England
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | twood <woodfam(at)aloha.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
I think that the value of this video would apply way beyond just the RV
group. You may have a hard time keeping them in stock.
Terray
>
>George-
>
>You have my vote for the Lyc O-360-A1A engine video. I think you could do a
>masterful job. The EAA could also add it to their library. How about the
>rest of you folks on the list that are not A&Ps, is there enough interest?
>
>Gary VanRemortel
>vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Skin |
<33450449.3891(at)taylortel.com>
| From: | skymike(at)juno.com (Michael E. Lynch) |
(TTC Carroll A. Bird) writes:
>Bird)
>
>Michael E. Lynch wrote:
>>
>>
>> I trimmed using a standard set of shears and am not happy
>> with the slight "rippling" left on the stab skin.
>>
>> Mike in San Antonio
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I also had this problem. I found a set of Pro-Snip straight
>hand
>shears (the ones with the yellow handle) at Wal-Mart I forget what
>they
>cost. They do a much better job than the Wiss shears that I bought at
>Avery's (they leave a ripple).
> Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap TX
>
Carroll,
Thanks for the advice. Will shop for a set of these and try 'em.
Mike Lynch
RV6A San Antonio
skymike(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Instruments-RMI enhancements |
Denny,
I intend to build the MicroMonitor soon. I called RMI last month to get
some construction specifics. Although the unit uses some 'surface mounted
technology', the SMT parts are pre-soldered at the factory. I was told that
the assembly skills required are the same as building a Heathkit or
similar electronic project. I forgot to ask about calibration but I'm sure
that they provide a 'reference source' that emulates each probe and sensor.
As far as the electronic switch, I have started the prototype. I decided to
use a radar detector enclosure (Passport) that I picked up at a pawn shop
for $10. It already has 8 bright LEDS in it, some switches, is small, light
and well sealed. I could use the some of the circuitry but that would force
anyone who wants to build on to find the same radar detector, so I won't
use anything other than the lights and case.
Give me two or three weeks.
Jerry H. Prado
RV-6A, 22418, wing
>
>Jerry H. Prado wrote:
>
>> The best way to do this would be with a solid state switch that
sequences
>> the probes. It could be built on a small panel (large enough for 4 or 6
>> small lights plus one light for egt). The current light would indicate
>> which cylinder the MicroMonitor was reporting. In the event of failure,
a
>> relay would default to the egt mode. You could even use the newer two
>> color bright LEDs. When green, it would indicate the probe that is
active,
>> when red, it would indicate the hottest cylinder in the last scan. That
>> frill might take a cpu or PIC. The simple sequencer would not.
>
>I've been thinking the same thing. Problem is I don't have the expertise
>to design the thing. Perhaps someone could design such a switch make
>plans available?
>
>Bob
Yes, I thought that was an excellent idea. As you could probably tell, I
was
worried about assembling the RMI kit. Although I was worried about
assembling the RV-6, I have made lots mistakes that had to be corrected,
but
the education and the gained skills has been great. All my aviation
professional life was flying them, I should have done this 40 years ago.
Maybe this electronics thing will work out as well.
denny h.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: big ugly irregular countersinks - why?!? |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com (Cecil T Hatfield) |
Michael, Did you use a 'pilot guide' behind the hole. If the guide has
nothing to 'guide it' you will get the results you describe.
Call me if you don't understand, (805) 375-2660.
Cecil hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trimming Aft Fuse Skins/Longerons |
I have a RV6A which is ready for the fuse skins to be riveted. I haven't
trimmed my skins or the longerons which extend aft of the F-612 bulkhead.
I'm having trouble finding info on the DWGs about how much skin to leave
aft of this bulkhead and if the current 2-3 inches of extra longeron left
hanging on the end should be cut off flush with the F-612. Would
appreciate any help with this situation. Thanks in advance.
Ron Caldwell
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
>>To All,
>> Becki and I or about to over haul a o-360-A1A for our RV-8 so of you on
>>the list have asked if we coould do a video on this. It cost about $2000 to
>>just edit a 3 hour video . How ever if there is enough builders interested
>>in this we may do it. Please write me direct at ( orndorffg(at)aol.com ) and let
>>me know...George Orndorff
George, I'd be interested...
Bill Mills
Wichita
wmills(at)southwind.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cessna heated Pitot |
<3345281B.71A4(at)bihs.net>
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
Hi Doug,
Maybe your friend has a pitot tube off of a Cessna 150, and it's
not accustomed to going as fast as an RV can 8-). Just a thought!!
Allan Pomeroy
AB6A(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>>
>>
>> A good friend of mine has a Cessna heated pitot tube on an RV-6. It
>reads
>> airspeeds at around 20 kts slow at cruise. It seems more accurate at
>lower
>> speeds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Cowel braces |
>
>Several years ago it showed up in an RVator to BRACE the front of the cowel,
>from a brace mounted on the starter and one from the engine mount to the
>bottom of the cowel. My questions: 1. How many flyers are using the braces?
>2. Should the front brace (starter mounted) actually touch the cowel and, if
>not, how much gap should be allowed. This is allowing for "engine droop".
>
>Michael
>RV-4 232SQ
>mikel(at)dimensional.com
Michael
I have one on my 4. It rubs on a thin piece of delrin plastic that I have
glued on the inside of the lower cowl. I'm not sure, but I think these may
be more common on the 4's than the 6's. Before I put mine on, the cowl would
push up in flight and rub on the alternator support arm. Works fine now.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Aft Fuse Skins/Longerons |
Ron Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> I have a RV6A which is ready for the fuse skins to be riveted. I haven't
> trimmed my skins or the longerons which extend aft of the F-612 bulkhead.
> I'm having trouble finding info on the DWGs about how much skin to leave
> aft of this bulkhead and if the current 2-3 inches of extra longeron left
> hanging on the end should be cut off flush with the F-612. Would
> appreciate any help with this situation. Thanks in advance.
>
> Ron Caldwell
> rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
Dont trim here until you fit the rudder. How it fits in conjunction
with the vertical stab. is the determining factor as to how much if any
trim is needed.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowel braces |
Michael,
I have a RV-4 and I didn't like the ideal of having anything rubbing my
cowling period. So I carved a curved V shape out of styrofome that fit my
bottom cowl in the area where my starter and alternator is and then I
fiberglassed it to strenghten this area. It worked very well, I don't have
any rubbing and it is very rigid. The styrofome is about 1 1/2 " at the base
and it is triangular shaped. The V legs are about 8 " long I put 3 layers of
bidirectional cloth over it. Take care as to where the stiffiner is placed on
your cowling. It must be marked while on the airplane to insure it clears
everything. I then fabricated a attachment point at the bottom of my cowling
between the exhausts off of the floorboard and used a nut plate and 8/32
countersunk screw to hold the cowling in place at the air outlet. If you have
any other questions on how I did this you can E-Mail me at N595CM(at)aol.com.
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
To All ,
The votes are in and the verdict is yes , alot of peolpe are interested in
the engine overhaul video. Now its up to me to put one together. It will
take awhile and I'll let everyone know when it's done...Thanks for your
support....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAllen6526(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Aft Fuse Skins/Longerons |
<< rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net >>
I worried about this too. Thus far my fuselage riveting is done and I still
haven't trimmed those longerons. I guess deep down I'm concernd I would have
to move that bulkhead fore or aft when I fitted the HS and I didn't want to
burn any bridges.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 tail kit for sale |
Hi folks!
I finally convinced my former partner to sell the RV-4 tail kit and
plans we have had laying around collecting dust. We're open to offers.
I'll be at Sun n Fun Sunday & Monday. I'll have it with me if anyone is
interested. Email me off list at charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com or call
(561)338-9373 tomorrow or Monday and leave a message. I'll check the
machine while at Sun n Fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | RV-8 kit for sale |
Due to change in employment status, have for sale empennage and wing
kit for RV-8 Serial # 80006.
Located Dallas, Texas.
Empennage complete. Workmanship better than airworthy, less than
Grand Champion.
Wing flaps and ailerons complete. Workmanship better than empennage.
Wing ribs prepared, primed and ready. Work not started on balance of
wing.
Price:$6,000.00 firm. My cost was more. Approx. 400 hours labor
free.
Terms: cash and carry.
Also available: wing/empennage jig ($75.00)
Might also sell tools to new builder.
Respond off-line to GHLX34A(at)Prodigy.com.
George Kilshek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowel braces |
>Several years ago it showed up in an RVator to BRACE the front of the cowel,
>from a brace mounted on the starter and one from the engine mount to the
>bottom of the cowel. My questions: 1. How many flyers are using the braces?
>2. Should the front brace (starter mounted) actually touch the cowel and, if
>not, how much gap should be allowed. This is allowing for "engine droop".
>Michael
>mikel(at)dimensional.com
My RV-4 (with brace) had several hundred hours on it when purchased. While
doing an oil change, I noticed that the brace pad had broken off. I
re-installed the cowl, pushed up hard & could detect no movement, so I
decided it wasn't needed. A few hours flying later, I discovered that the
short piano hinge on both sides of the spinner was broken completely, and
the long piano hinge at the sides of the cowl had the front 2 or 3 segments
broken. I replaced the brace, adjusted so that it pushed down firmly on the
cowl. I later developed cracks in the fiberglass 'insert' which smooths the
air entering the cooling inlets. I don't know, but suspect that the
excessive down-force of the new bracket might have caused this. After
adjusting the bracket for very slight pressure at rest, and re-enforcing the
cooling inlets, I've had no further problems.
Charlie
RV-4 N4375J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Ed,
Can't see why the same mount wouldn't work. Just don't put in the nose
gear!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
On Fri, 04 Apr 1997 20:09:51 GMT themall.net!immelmann(at)matronics.com (Ed
Holyoke) writes:
>
>
>>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills)
>>
>> When Belted Air Power comes on-line with their setup (I'm not sure
>when
>>they will begin selling/delivering) they will have a complete
>firewall
>>forward package including engine mount. I believe the mount is made
>by =
>the
>>same sub-contractor who makes Vans Lyc mounts.
>Will they also offer a mount for the taildragger? I'm not sure that I
>want to be forced to decide between 6 and 6a while building the wing
>and before making a final decision on powerplant.
>Ed Holyoke=20
>RV-6 tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Doyal <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
aol.com!OrndorffG(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> To All,
> Becki and I or about to over haul a o-360-A1A for our RV-8 so of you on
> the list have asked if we coould do a video on this. It cost about $2000 to
> just edit a 3 hour video . How ever if there is enough builders interested
> in this we may do it. Please write me direct at ( orndorffg(at)aol.com ) and let
> me know...George OrndorffGeorge you can count me in for the video also.
Jerry Doyal
jerrydd(at)earthlink.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Fred,
... where would you plug in the mains then?? ...:^)
... Gil A.
>
>Ed,
>
> Can't see why the same mount wouldn't work. Just don't put in the nose
>gear!
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
>On Fri, 04 Apr 1997 20:09:51 GMT themall.net!immelmann(at)matronics.com (Ed
>Holyoke) writes:
>>
>>
>>>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills)
>>>
>>> When Belted Air Power comes on-line with their setup (I'm not sure
>>when
>>>they will begin selling/delivering) they will have a complete
>>firewall
>>>forward package including engine mount. I believe the mount is made
>>by =
>>the
>>>same sub-contractor who makes Vans Lyc mounts.
>>Will they also offer a mount for the taildragger? I'm not sure that I
>>want to be forced to decide between 6 and 6a while building the wing
>>and before making a final decision on powerplant.
>>Ed Holyoke=20
>>RV-6 tail
>>
>>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kennett(at)direct.ca (robert kennett) |
I've been using a fairly large spray gun (borrowed) which has been overkill
for spraying the empennage parts. In reading the archives, I've noticed
that others are using either an air brush or a touch-up gun. At this point,
I'm leaning towards the airbrush to minimize overspray and use of primer,
but would like some second opinions that an airbrush is adequate for most of
the parts. I would still have the larger gun available for skins, etc.
Please feel free to e-mail me off the list.
Thanks
Rob Kennett (kennett(at)direct.ca)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RCB <snaproll(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
Darrell L. Anderson wrote:
>
>
>
> Darrell L. Anderson wrote:
> > procedure? Ly-ablility I suppose...
> HALF OF THE REPLYS I HAVE SEEN OFER THE LAST FEW MONTHS ARE LITTLE
> MORE THAN RUDE, ILL-THOUGHT OUT INSULTS. (YOU KNOW THERE IS NOTHING
> WRONG WITH POLITELY TELLING SOME ONE THAT YOU DISAGREE.)
>
> Yip, Yip, YIP (Tail between legs...)
> I was ASKING if liability was a problem.
> Question answered...submit your bill.
Now, girls! I don't think any of this is helping anybody very much...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ely <jmely(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor hookup |
I am in the process of installing the Woodward prop governor and Van's
cable bracket on my O-320 but have no CS experience at all. I cannot
figure out the mechanics of the cable bracket and actual contol action.
1. should pushing the prop control cable in toward the panel
increase
or decrease pitch (or inverse for RPM)?
2. when mounting the cable bracket, should it be setup to push
or
pull the arm on the governor?
3. can anyone suggest the best location to pass the cable
through
the firewall and what angle of approach it should make to the governor?
Sorry, these may seem to be stupid questions, but I have not been able
to find any other references.
Thanks, John Ely...RV-6, O-320, lost and wandering (and wondering) in
the dark void beneath the cowling...
________________________________________________________________________________
> > >washers how do identify washers such as 5702-95-30, 8702-73-60 etc. cant
> > >find it in my manual. TU
Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company's catalog is perfect for
identifying hardware. They reprint the mil spec in many cases, show
cross references between AN and MS numbers, and show the measurements
of the various sizes of each piece of hardware. The catalog I have
(1994) sold for $10, and it's well worth it. I've never found an AN
or MS part that wasn't covered in the catalog. Their phone number is
805-239-3169, or fax 805 239-4871.
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <joe(at)flnet.com> |
Having one *&^%&*&*?? trying to visualize the end flap brace's on the
drawing. Guess ill take my flap parts to sun&fun tomorrow and throw
myself on the mercy of the other builders. I hope I'm not the only one
having trouble trying to visualize this because if I am I'm in deep dodo.
Joe/flap
joe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Beaton <beatonk(at)texas.net> |
| Subject: | Bulkheads F610,F611,F612 |
I am trying determine from drawing 22 what is the reference point for =
measuring the top and bottom distances for the bulkheads on an RV6A. I =
looks like measurements are taken from the bottom of the longeron (the =
flat plan of the longeron that lays on the horizontal members of the =
jig). If this is correct then I'll need to trim approximately 3/32 off =
bulkheads f610,f611, and f612, in order to match the correct bottom =
distances for the bulkheads. This seems odd because the bulkheads match =
the dimensions in the plan drawings, and I would assume that they should =
not be adjusted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)konza.flinthills.com |
>
>Having one *&^%&*&*?? trying to visualize the end flap brace's on the
>drawing. Guess ill take my flap parts to sun&fun tomorrow and throw
>myself on the mercy of the other builders. I hope I'm not the only one
>having trouble trying to visualize this because if I am I'm in deep dodo.
>
>Joe/flap
>joe(at)flnet.com
>
>Hey Joe,
You are not alone in this. I did a lot of head scratching trying
to figure out what it was supposed to look like. Since you are going to Sun
and Fun (lucky you), I won't attempt to describe it as they will be able to
much better there.
Tim
RV4 2nd wing 2/3 done
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor hookup |
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
Hi John,
If I'm not mistaken, I believe when the prop control goes toward
the panel, the pitch is decreased. This seems to be one of the
things to do on the prelanding checklist . If you need to do a
go-around, it allows for full power.
Probably the least amount of bends in the cable would be best.
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>I am in the process of installing the Woodward prop governor and Van's
>cable bracket on my O-320 but have no CS experience at all. I cannot
>figure out the mechanics of the cable bracket and actual contol
>action.
>
> 1. should pushing the prop control cable in toward the
>panel increase
>or decrease pitch? 3. what angle of approach it should make to
the
>governor?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
FLYING RV-4 <50HRS., NEEDS TLC, ENG. JUST OVER TBO--RUNNING GREAT, $10,000
TAKES IT!
CONTACT BOB E-MAIL: LVAVIATION(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum |
Fellow Listers:
For those of you who had planned to attend the Twin Cities RV Forum in St.
Paul, unfortunately the event has been cancelled. The reason is the
unprecidented flooding of the Mississippi which has engulfed the St. Paul
Airport (our forum location). All operations and FBOs at STP have been
closed and power has been shut down to the airport. The airport is planned
to be closed for 8 weeks.
This has been a real disapointment to those who have worked so hard on this
event. In place of the Forum, we will have a regular meeting of the MN Wing
at Anoka County Airport on April 19. Bill Benedict will be there and we
still intend to have our originally scheduled evening banquet with Bill as
our guest speaker.
For directions to the Anoka County meeting, call me or send an email.
We plan to have another RV Forum next year. Maybe we'll have a snowless
winter!!!!!
Doug Weiler
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator Circuit Breaker Tripping |
I have a perplexing problem and hope some of you electrical type gurus can
help. My C-150 Alternator CB (60 amp) trips under full load (radio,
transponder,taxi and landing light, nav and beacon on) when engine rpm
exceeds 1200 RPM and electric flaps are cycled. CB will not trip when engine
is not running, even when flaps are cycled and all electrics are on. I Have
checked and cleaned all connections which is about the limit of my electrical
expertise. Anything else is pure speculation on my part. My local
maintenance shop tested CB to 45 amps and it held fine. I'm hesitant to
spend bucks to replace CB if problem is voltage reg or alternator or ?.
Bucks are tight and SUN-N-FUN calls. Would appreciate any help/suggestions.
Empennage finished, Working on wings.
Thanks,
RVBLDR(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
The last issue of The RVator (Feb 97) contains an article on the care of
the plexiglass canopy. It suggests using only air and water for
cleaning, avoiding window cleaning solutions, and using mineral spirits
for removing grease and oil.
What has been the experience of the list on the day-to-day care of our
great big canopies? What works good for basic cleaning before flight
and what doesn't work or may be harmful? I wonder what the air force and
navy guys use these days? Obviously maintaining the plexiglass clean and
as scratch free as possible is important. Thanks for all comments and
suggestions.
J. E. Rehler, Flying RV6A Corpus Christi, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Bulkheads F610,F611,F612 |
Kevin, I believe you are using the correct reference point. I had to
lower my aft bulkheads also. You only need to trim the bulkhead corners
where they contact the longeron. If you get the distance set on
bulkheads F-606 =1B=1B=1B& F-612 you can then use a string or straight
edge between the two to align the bulkheads in between. Also my F-608
was a little short (top and bottom) so I moved it 3/8" aft.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor hookup |
<< 1. should pushing the prop control cable in toward the panel increase
or decrease pitch (or inverse for RPM)?>>
Pushing the control should cause the governor to go to low pitch/high rpm.
This is the relaxed position of the governor return spring.
<< 2. when mounting the cable bracket, should it be setup to push or pull
the arm on the governor?>>
It should pull the arm CCW loading the return spring when you pull the
control out to high pitch/low rpm.
<< 3. can anyone suggest the best location to pass the cable through
the firewall and what angle of approach it should make to the governor?
>>
I exited the firewall about six inches in and in the upper cresent of the
firewall. This allows an entry at about 10 o'clock, looking at the rear of
the acc pad from the cockpit.
I didn't use Van's cables so I made my own 4130 brackets (governor, and
throttle/mixture) that work with the ACS controls (ferrule and saddle clamp
type). I would be happy to send you ACAD drawings of them if you like.
Please advise.
Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulkheads F610,F611,F612 |
>
>I am trying determine from drawing 22 what is the reference point for
measuring the top and bottom distances for the bulkheads on an RV6A. I
looks like measurements are taken from the bottom of the longeron (the flat
plan of the longeron that lays on the horizontal members of the jig). If
this is correct then I'll need to trim approximately 3/32 off bulkheads
f610,f611, and f612, in order to match the correct bottom distances for the
bulkheads. This seems odd because the bulkheads match the dimensions in the
plan drawings, and I would assume that they should not be adjusted.
>
>
the reality of it is you locate the major bulkheads and then adjust the
location of the intermediate ones to get a nice fit. Don't get anal over
measurements here because, as Randall mathematically proved, everything
doesn't add up. I used 6 strands of fish line and then compromised a bit
here and there(+-1/16") and was very pleased with the product. One of the
bulkheads had to be notched and lowered a bit. You will discover that on
the fuselage things don't work out as nicely as the wings do. I had my
canopy deck and tilt-up canopy clecoed and just matching real sweet but when
the rivets were set stuff started moving and I ended up shimming before I
had finished riveting. This was a first, but after two months of work on
the canopy I wasn't about to start over. kevin 6A-baffle/exhaust
________________________________________________________________________________
What is a conveinent way to prime small parts, a few at a time?
What areas can I use spray can Zinc Cromate?
What areas must I use self etching 2 part primer?
Are there any self etching primers available in a spray can for easy
use?
Some Alum 6061-T6 parts don't come with the Alclad(?) coating on them.
What primer do I need on these parts?
Thanks in advance.
Glenn Gordon
RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
<3.0.1.32.19970405190919.006d8058(at)pop.flash.net>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Gil,
Guess I stand corrected. Been flying my trike too long!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Fred,
>
> ... where would you plug in the mains then?? ...:^)
>
> ... Gil A.
>
>
>Stucklen)
>>
>>Ed,
>>
>> Can't see why the same mount wouldn't work. Just don't put in the
>>nosegear!
>>
>>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>>wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>>
>>
>>On Fri, 04 Apr 1997 20:09:51 GMT themall.net!immelmann(at)matronics.com
>(Ed
>>Holyoke) writes:
>>>
>>>
>>>>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike
>Wills)
>>>>
>>>> When Belted Air Power comes on-line with their setup (I'm not sure
>
>>>when
>>>>they will begin selling/delivering) they will have a complete
>>>firewall
>>>>forward package including engine mount. I believe the mount is made
>
>>>by =
>>>the
>>>>same sub-contractor who makes Vans Lyc mounts.
>>>Will they also offer a mount for the taildragger? I'm not sure that
>I
>>>want to be forced to decide between 6 and 6a while building the wing
>>>and before making a final decision on powerplant.
>>>Ed Holyoke=20
>>>RV-6 tail
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>-------------------------------------------------------
>mailto:gila(at)flash.net
>Gil Alexander,
>Los Angeles, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Gray <klgray(at)bihs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna heated Pitot |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> Are you guys with Cessna heated pitot tubes using the original mounting
> pylon or a custom one? The Cessna mounts are generally a lot shorter
> than the 5-6" that Van's recommends. Also I think in most cases the
> Cessna tubes are mounted farther forward on the wing than the standard
> location on Van's planes, which might make up for the shorter mount.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6
> randall(at)edt.com
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
I used the Warren Gretz (SP) mounting bracket, Installed in one bay
toward the tip, than Van's tube. This is a great product, Mr Gretz
should be proud!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
The last issue of The RVator (Feb 97) contains an article on the care of
the plexiglass canopy. It suggests using only air and water for
cleaning, avoiding window cleaning solutions, and using mineral spirits
for removing grease and oil.
What has been the experience of the list on the day-to-day care of our
great big canopies? What works good for basic cleaning before flight
and what doesn't work or may be harmful? I wonder what the air force and
navy guys use these days? Obviously maintaining the plexiglass clean and
as scratch free as possible is important. Thanks for all comments and
suggestions.
J. E. Rehler, Flying RV6A Corpus Christi, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DCHamilton(at)aol.com |
The same primer can be used on everything, either zinc chromate, Dupont
Variprime [self-etching, two-part] , or Mar-Hyde. Mar-Hyde single stage
self-etching primer, part no. 5112, is a one-component primer with no mixing
required and is available in spray cans or the usual paint cans. The
important
matter in painting is to be sure that the surface is clean, that is, as clean
as a
dish washed in the dishwasher. You don't want oil from fingermarks. Wiping
the
surface with a solvent like laquer thinner does not do an adequate job, and
in fact after wiping , residue can still be seen by looking at the surface in
reflected light. -- David Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ernstrm(at)alpha.hendrix.edu (Richard Ernst) |
| Subject: | Moving to Chicago |
I will be moving to Chicago in early June, and am looking for shop and
storage space for my RV-6A project (I'm ready to jig the fuselage). I
would appreciate a message from any Chicagoland RVers who know of available
space in the Near North part of town. Please also let me know about any
useful builders' group in the area. Responses should be directed to me at
ernstrm(at)alpha.hendrix.edu
Thanks.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard M. Ernst ernstrm(at)alpha.hendrix.edu
Department of Physics office: (501) 450-3808
Hendrix College
1600 Washington Ave.
Conway, AR 72032-3080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
>
>Are there any self etching primers available in a spray can for easy
>use?
>
I'm using Marhyde self-etching primer is a spray can. In my building
situation it is about all it is possible to use. It is very convenient. I
recall reading in an old RV-ator or somewhere that it is approved by Van's.
I am sure there are much much better primers available.
Some people have been able to find the Marhyde primer locally. Here in the
wilds of New Mexico I have to have a local paint store order it for me. It
runs around $15 a can.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6QME N441LP Left Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
I do not know if it is the same material but I have been using furniture polish
(pledge) for years (15+) to clean my canopy in both gliders and power planes.
On Apr 7, 7:59am, J E REHLER wrote:
> Subject: RV-List: canopy care
>
>
> The last issue of The RVator (Feb 97) contains an article on the care of
> the plexiglass canopy. It suggests using only air and water for
> cleaning, avoiding window cleaning solutions, and using mineral spirits
> for removing grease and oil.
>
> What has been the experience of the list on the day-to-day care of our
> great big canopies? What works good for basic cleaning before flight
> and what doesn't work or may be harmful? I wonder what the air force and
> navy guys use these days? Obviously maintaining the plexiglass clean and
> as scratch free as possible is important. Thanks for all comments and
> suggestions.
>
> J. E. Rehler, Flying RV6A Corpus Christi, Tx
>
>
>-- End of excerpt from J E REHLER
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Senior Research Engineer
Advance Vehicle Technology
Ford Motor Company
Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> What is a conveinent way to prime small parts, a few at a time?
Rattle can.
> What areas can I use spray can Zinc Cromate?
Anywhere, but it's not very tough, so I avoid it in areas that might get
scuffed/scratched. Also, in areas that will be painted over later you
should check compatibility with your finish paint first.
> What areas must I use self etching 2 part primer?
You don't have to use self-etching primer anywhere. But if you use non-
self-etching, you should first prep the surface with scotch-brite and/or
acid etch cleaner (alumaprep).
> Are there any self etching primers available in a spray can for easy
> use?
Marhyde. Avery sells it.
> Some Alum 6061-T6 parts don't come with the Alclad(?) coating on them.
> What primer do I need on these parts?
I've found that for onsey-twosey parts, the very best primer is a
product called "WIHHLA", also known as "Whatever I Happen to Have Laying
Around".
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
Meguires mirror-glaze works so good that I doubt that anything would work
any better. It's made specifically for clear plastic. There are several different
types that they sell. I use the #10 cleaner and #17 polish. The stuff is sort
of
expensive but worth every penny. Any auto parts store will have it for about
$6.00 a bottle.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
>
>
> I do not know if it is the same material but I have been using furniture polish
> (pledge) for years (15+) to clean my canopy in both gliders and power planes.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<199704071637.AA28660@internet-mail2.ford.com>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
While Pledge does a nice job polishing your plexi, it may cause you to
have real bad problems re-painting around you plexi years from now. It is
silicone based and very difficult, if not impossible, to clean off....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>I do not know if it is the same material but I have been using
>furniture polish
>(pledge) for years (15+) to clean my canopy in both gliders and power
>planes.
>
>On Apr 7, 7:59am, J E REHLER wrote:
>> Subject: RV-List: canopy care
>>
>>
>> The last issue of The RVator (Feb 97) contains an article on the
>care of
>> the plexiglass canopy. It suggests using only air and water for
>> cleaning, avoiding window cleaning solutions, and using mineral
>spirits
>> for removing grease and oil.
>>
>> What has been the experience of the list on the day-to-day care of
>our
>> great big canopies? What works good for basic cleaning before
>flight
>> and what doesn't work or may be harmful? I wonder what the air force
>and
>> navy guys use these days? Obviously maintaining the plexiglass clean
>and
>> as scratch free as possible is important. Thanks for all comments
>and
>> suggestions.
>>
>> J. E. Rehler, Flying RV6A Corpus Christi, Tx
>>
>>
>>-- End of excerpt from J E REHLER
>
>
>
>--
>Jeffrey S. Davis
>Senior Research Engineer
>Advance Vehicle Technology
>Ford Motor Company
>Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crankshaft Reconditioning |
I am looking for someone to work on my crankshaft. Has anyone on the list
used Aircraft Specialties Services in Tulsa, OK. Bruce Bell RV-4 #2888
About to skin fuselage. Email- rv4bell(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Moving to Chicago |
Hello from the windy city!
There is a groups known as "Chicago Area RV-ators", The editor of the
newsletter who also handles membership is Ernie Cleveland (708)
771-6203. Many members meet at Clow Airport on Friday afternoons for
lunch. =20
Are you going to be living in Chicago or the burbs? I will keep my ears
open for a place for your airplane. I am building my RV-6 in a single
car garage; it's a cozy fit. =20
Take care,
Glenn & Judi Gordon
flyers@anet-chi.com
--=20
MZ=90
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
So who knows any more about the new Renault diesel aircraft engines,
pictured in this month's Sport Aviation? The article didn't say much,
but I find it intriguing that someone finally has a picture of one, what
with all the past talk of a coming "new generation" of diesel aircraft
engines.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Look in the archives. There is a good discussion about primers. I used
Marhyde sefl etching primer and was very happy with the results.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Glenn:
My priming approach consists of two methods:
1. If there are sufficient parts to be primed, I mix up some veriprime.
2. If there are NOT sufficient parts to justify mixing veriptime, I use an
aerosol can of either marhyde or zinc chromate. (Tempo has zinc-chromate
in aerosol cans).
>Are there any self etching primers available in a spray can for easy
>use?
Yes, Marhyde is a self-etching primer.
>Some Alum 6061-T6 parts don't come with the Alclad(?) coating on them.
>What primer do I need on these parts?
ANy of the above primers should be fine.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
installing electrical and avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stephen Jackson Soule <ssoule(at)vbimail.champlain.edu> |
Does Belted Air Power have an e-mail address?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Trimming Aft Fuse Skins/Longerons |
Ron,
The quickbuild comes with the longerons trimmed to about one inch along with
side skins. This should be plenty for final trimming later.
Les Williams/RV-6AQBME/tail and wings done, working on fuselage misc.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Ron Caldwell
Sent: Friday, April 04, 1997 8:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Trimming Aft Fuse Skins/Longerons
I have a RV6A which is ready for the fuse skins to be riveted. I haven't
trimmed my skins or the longerons which extend aft of the F-612 bulkhead.
I'm having trouble finding info on the DWGs about how much skin to leave
aft of this bulkhead and if the current 2-3 inches of extra longeron left
hanging on the end should be cut off flush with the F-612. Would
appreciate any help with this situation. Thanks in advance.
Ron Caldwell
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
I found some out-of-date mil-spec plastic cleaner at a military surplus store
and it works great. It has a slight scratch removal ability. It also rubs
off very easily whereas I've always had problems with Meguires. I thoroghly
agree with the cleaning methods outlined by Van's, if practical to do, but
sometimes it isn't. I also agree with Fred that getting Pledge off is
extremely difficult.
Les Williams/RV-6AQBME/N24LW (RESERVED)/2nd RV-6A
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of J E REHLER
Sent: Monday, April 07, 1997 8:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: canopy care
The last issue of The RVator (Feb 97) contains an article on the care of
the plexiglass canopy. It suggests using only air and water for
cleaning, avoiding window cleaning solutions, and using mineral spirits
for removing grease and oil.
What has been the experience of the list on the day-to-day care of our
great big canopies? What works good for basic cleaning before flight
and what doesn't work or may be harmful? I wonder what the air force and
navy guys use these days? Obviously maintaining the plexiglass clean and
as scratch free as possible is important. Thanks for all comments and
suggestions.
J. E. Rehler, Flying RV6A Corpus Christi, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
J.E. Rehler,
I have been using Lemon Pledge with a clean soft cotton rag on all the
plexiglass of the airplanes I have owned over the last 15 years including my
RV-4. It works good for me and the bugs come off easier if it is used
regularly. Only light rubbing is necessary.
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
HELLO J.E.;
I'M A RETIRED F-4 DRIVER (USAF) & AS OF '92 OUR CANOPIES WERE BEING CLEANED
WITH A LOTION TYPE SOLUTION BUT I DON'T KNOW THE PRODUCT NAME. SINCE
RETIREMENT I'VE OPENED A PICTURE FRAMING BUSINESS & I DEAL WITH A LOT OF
PLEXI. THE BEST PRODUCT I'VE FOUND TO CLEAN IT IS
"BRILLIANIZE". CONTACT YOUR LOCAL PLEXI/GLASS/PLASTICS OUTLET.
GOOD LUCK. WHEN IN AUSTIN, GIMME A CALL (512)328-3631
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy observations, canopy shiming question (6 slider) |
I took several days of leave, got my grandfather to help me, and
tackled the canopy. The frame is fit to the fuselage (after much
bending, twisting, and tugging), the canopy is now trimmed and cut
in half, and the windshield portion is clecoed to the rollbar. Some
observations:
- Over the last year I've read the posts complaining of the poor
quality of the RV-6 slider canopy instructions. I printed and kept
one message from an infuriated poster that says "The best and
quickest lesson would be to use the instructions to start a fire."
I found Van's instructions useful only for background information.
I could not follow the instructions because my canopy didn't fit as
required for Van's instructions to work. In addition, the
instructions I got (dated 2/2/96) contain several mistakes... out of
sequence installation, incorrect part number, mistaken reference to
plans figures, etc. I gave up on them.
- Jim Cone's instructions (Oct 96 Tri State Wing newsletter) were
fantastic. Frank Smidler's 8 Mar 97 rv-list post was also very
helpful, as were many other posts.
- On my canopy it was impossible to get the canopy to fit the
rollbar before trimming. At best, the canopy hit the roll bar on
the sides of the roll bar, and it took two men pushing on the top of
the canopy to deform the canopy enough to make contact with the
center of the roll bar. We drilled the canopy to the center of the
roll bar, and I nervously followed Jim's instructions to cut the
canopy without drilling it to the slider frame (my canopy would not
fit the slider frame at all). The results were amazing. The canopy
fit the roll bar like a glove, and fits the slider frame pretty
well. Whew!!! Thanks Jim Cone, for your clear instructions, good
photos, and perserverence in putting together a great set of
instructions.
Now my questions:
- Am I supposed to shim the front of the sliding
canopy to match the contour of the windshield?
- It looks like the sides of my sliding canopy want to bulge out 1/4"
or so. Will the side skirts hold them in?
- The very back of my sliding canopy sits up about 3/8" above the
frame. I can bring it down flush with the frame with two fingers and
firm pressure. Should I shim it, or snug it down to the frame?
Thanks,
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 FOR SALE |
Hey Bob,
Why so cheap? Have never seen an RV of any type that low. Has it been in a
war? How's the quality of construction. Who built it? Where is it? Got the
rest of the specs?
FLYJAS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy observations, canopy shiming question (6 |
slider)
>
>I took several days of leave, got my grandfather to help me, and
>tackled the canopy. The frame is fit to the fuselage (after much
>bending, twisting, and tugging), the canopy is now trimmed and cut
>in half, and the windshield portion is clecoed to the rollbar. Some
>observations:
>
>Now my questions:
>
>- Am I supposed to shim the front of the sliding
>canopy to match the contour of the windshield?
I did this. Many people talk about shimming the windscreen but like you I
used a fair chunk of Jim Cone's instructions and it works out easier to shim
at the front of the canopy than at the back of the windscreen.
>
>- It looks like the sides of my sliding canopy want to bulge out 1/4"
>or so. Will the side skirts hold them in?
Yes,
Particularly if you use the Orndorff's suggestion of welding little tabs
onto the side of the canopy frame to provide better side skirt location.
>
>- The very back of my sliding canopy sits up about 3/8" above the
>frame. I can bring it down flush with the frame with two fingers and
>firm pressure. Should I shim it, or snug it down to the frame?
You need to establish the correct relationship between the back of the
frame, the plexiglass and the leading edge of the canopy rear skin. The rear
skirt has to rivet to the frame and the plexy and sit down on the rear skin.
The only reason to shim the plexy up would be if the frame is so low that
you wouldn't be able to fit the rear skirt. I used Frank Justice's
suggesion of a short straight edge (about 4") lain against the rear skin
and the plexy all the way around to check that the skirt will fit
satisfactorily. This may require juggling with the rear slider track.
>Thanks,
You're welcome,
Leo Davies
>
>Tim
>---------------------
>Tim Lewis
>RV-6AQ #60023
>San Antonio TX
>timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
>-----------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Is it true Frank's plane has flown?
I tried to mail him at "Frank.K.Justice(at)ccm.ssd.intel.com" but got an
unknown host message back.
Does anyone have a current EMail address for Frank?
Cheers,
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulkheads F610,F611,F612 |
>
>Kevin, I believe you are using the correct reference point. I had to
>lower my aft bulkheads also. You only need to trim the bulkhead corners
>where they contact the longeron.
hopefully these fix-it skills will noy need employment when the wing fitting
stage arrives ;+)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | TTD hanger space |
Brian and I decided to rent a hanger, the ol' bird in hand thing, despite
not being ready to use it for a while. It's a long shot , but, if anyone
has need of a Troutdale hanger for a couple months let us know, sweet deal
available. kevin 6A -exhaust(ed), oil cooler, cabin heat (503) 233-1818
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)Veda.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Primers
Message not delivered to recipients below. Press F1 for help with VNM
error codes.
VNM3011: Jim Tennison@CMRL@Veda
VNM3011 -- UNEXPECTED FAILURE CONDITION
An unexpected failure condition occurred. Check for error
conditions in the mail service log and the server log of the
server that maintains the mail service
Look in the archives. There is a good discussion about primers. I used
Marhyde sefl etching primer and was very happy with the results.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)Veda.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy observations, canopy shiming question (6 s
Message not delivered to recipients below. Press F1 for help with VNM
error codes.
VNM3011: Jim Tennison@CMRL@Veda
VNM3011 -- UNEXPECTED FAILURE CONDITION
An unexpected failure condition occurred. Check for error
conditions in the mail service log and the server log of the
server that maintains the mail service
---------------------- Original Message Follows ----------------------SUBJECT
too long. Original SUBJECT is 'Re: RV-List: Canopy observations, canopy shiming
question (6 slider)'
---------------------- Original Message Follows ----------------------
>
>I took several days of leave, got my grandfather to help me, and
>tackled the canopy. The frame is fit to the fuselage (after much
>bending, twisting, and tugging), the canopy is now trimmed and cut
>in half, and the windshield portion is clecoed to the rollbar. Some
>observations:
>
>Now my questions:
>
>- Am I supposed to shim the front of the sliding
>canopy to match the contour of the windshield?
I did this. Many people talk about shimming the windscreen but like you I
used a fair chunk of Jim Cone's instructions and it works out easier to shim
at the front of the canopy than at the back of the windscreen.
>
>- It looks like the sides of my sliding canopy want to bulge out 1/4"
>or so. Will the side skirts hold them in?
Yes,
Particularly if you use the Orndorff's suggestion of welding little tabs
onto the side of the canopy frame to provide better side skirt location.
>
>- The very back of my sliding canopy sits up about 3/8" above the
>frame. I can bring it down flush with the frame with two fingers and
>firm pressure. Should I shim it, or snug it down to the frame?
You need to establish the correct relationship between the back of the
frame, the plexiglass and the leading edge of the canopy rear skin. The rear
skirt has to rivet to the frame and the plexy and sit down on the rear skin.
The only reason to shim the plexy up would be if the frame is so low that
you wouldn't be able to fit the rear skirt. I used Frank Justice's
suggesion of a short straight edge (about 4") lain against the rear skin
and the plexy all the way around to check that the skirt will fit
satisfactorily. This may require juggling with the rear slider track.
>Thanks,
You're welcome,
Leo Davies
>
>Tim
>---------------------
>Tim Lewis
>RV-6AQ #60023
>San Antonio TX
>timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
>-----------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (Tom Sargent) |
| Subject: | safety of homebuilts |
There's an article by Richard Collins in the April issue of Flying about
stalls and spins. Along the way it makes some chilling statements about
homebuilts.
Collins claims that, "planes with from one to 3 seats, and especially
experimental and homebuilt planes, have a high exposure to low-altitude,
low-speed losses of control. Many of these come from hot-dogging." Well
that doesn't speak well for us, but I guess it's something I can personally
easily avoid doing.
Later in the article he says FAA statistics show that planes with 1 to 3
seats have twice the rate of stall/spin accidents of 4 or more seat planes,
AND that experimentals have 13 times the stall/spin accident rate of 4
seaters. Yikes!
Assuming these numbers are right (he implies they under report accidents),
what are home builders doing wrong? Are the homebuilts inherently less
airworthy? Or are people who want to build their own just wild and crazy
to start with?
Does anybody have statistics for RVs specifically? I assume that airframe
failures are virtually unheard of. Is it the oddball (i.e. non-Lycoming)
engines experimentals often use? How many crashes have there been? How
many are due to bad flying judgement versus bad airplane?
I've half decided to order my tail kit this year, but stuff like this
worries me.
---
Tom Sargent, Tucson, AZ, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
I just returned from S&Fun and sunday I saw the time trials for the
medallian climb contest. Allan tolle and his RV3 mazda was against the 454
chev engine P51 replica.
I wasn't even close. The RV3 won hands down!! These were only the trials to
set individual handicaps but the rv3 performance was hard to believe.
Tom Martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>What has been the experience of the list on the day-to-day care of our
great big canopies? What works good for basic cleaning before flight
and what doesn't work or may be harmful? I wonder what the air force and
navy guys use these days? Obviously maintaining the plexiglass clean and
as scratch free as possible is important. Thanks for all comments and
suggestions.
>J. E. Rehler, Flying RV6A Corpus Christi, Tx
The Job Guide for the F-16 specifies that the canopy should
first be rinsed with water (to remove dust, sand, etc. that
would scratch) and then cleaned with a solution of water,
isopropyl alcohol, and "non-ionic" dish washing detergent.
Your guess is as good as mine on what non-ionic is and where
it can be found. The alcohol is in there for low temperatures,
and there are warnings to avoid the alcohol in very hot
temperatures.
Luckily, as an alternate, it also specifies "Windex with vinegar"
This is the green stuff, not blue or pink (ammonia), and is
hard to find on the grocery shelf. We use the green stuff for
everyday canopy cleaning, bug removal, etc.
Now, as opposed to cleaning, they specify Meguiars MGH-10 plastic
polish to remove streaks and minor scratches. This should be
available through automotive or motorcycle shops (Meguiars No.7)
There is another military-source polish specified; it looks
something like scouring powder mixed in kerosene, and doesn't work
that well. Also, Texstar, the manufacturer of F-16 canopies has
a polish for removing heavier scratches, but the MGH-10 is supposed
to be used on a regular basis.
Now, how these would work on the particular plastic in RV's, I don't
know. F-16 canopies are a multi-layer polycarbonate made to resist
bird strikes and keep the pilot's lips from folding back over his head.
One layer WILL crack, the other will bounce back into shape. F-16's
that have had bird strikes right on the canopy have deflected enough to
break the Heads-up display, and the pilot's helmet, yet pop back to
their original shape.
Sorry for the long posting.....hope this info is of interest.
Darrell Anderson
(F-16 Crew Chief)
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Re: safety of homebuilts |
Tom Sargent wrote:
>
>
> There's an article by Richard Collins in the April issue of Flying about
> stalls and spins. Along the way it makes some chilling statements about
> homebuilts.
>
> Collins claims that, "planes with from one to 3 seats, and especially
> experimental and homebuilt planes, have a high exposure to low-altitude,
> low-speed losses of control. Many of these come from hot-dogging." Well
> that doesn't speak well for us, but I guess it's something I can personally
> easily avoid doing.
>
> Later in the article he says FAA statistics show that planes with 1 to 3
> seats have twice the rate of stall/spin accidents of 4 or more seat planes,
> AND that experimentals have 13 times the stall/spin accident rate of 4
> seaters. Yikes!
>
> Assuming these numbers are right (he implies they under report accidents),
> what are home builders doing wrong? Are the homebuilts inherently less
> airworthy? Or are people who want to build their own just wild and crazy
> to start with?
>
> Does anybody have statistics for RVs specifically? I assume that airframe
> failures are virtually unheard of. Is it the oddball (i.e. non-Lycoming)
> engines experimentals often use? How many crashes have there been? How
> many are due to bad flying judgement versus bad airplane?
>
> I've half decided to order my tail kit this year, but stuff like this
> worries me.
>
> ---
> Tom Sargent, Tucson, AZ, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
Tom: I would venture there are as many reasons as there are pilots...
Here are a couple of possibles reasons:
A) The builder spends two+ years building your homebuilt and dosnt'
fly at all. This makes you rusty
B) The builder has a private ticket earned in a C-152 or C-172 and
then straps on a new RV6A/4/8, etc.
C) Showing his/her wife and neighbors how well the brand new
experimental plane handles as he fly's at tree top level over the
house.
D) More pride than brains in not having anyone else look over his work
or take the first flight to shake out the rigging issues.
Overall, I believe experimentals, especially RV's are as save to fly as
any Cessna/Piper/whatever. Just one guys opinion.....
--
Rick Osgood (RV6A wings frozen to wall in Minnesota)
Hennipen Technical College
Eden Prairie, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna heated Pitot |
Ken Gray wrote:
>
> I used the Warren Gretz (SP) mounting bracket, Installed in one bay
> toward the tip, than Van's tube. This is a great product, Mr Gretz
> should be proud!
I did mine the hard way, with attach points on both the top and bottom
skins to prevent vibration. However, my mount would be about a pound
heavier than Warren's. Warren was kind enough to send me one of his
flyers, and I posted pictures of both his mount and mine on my web site.
PatK - RV-6A - http://ic.net/~patk/rv6a.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: safety of homebuilts |
> Does anybody have statistics for RVs specifically? I assume that airframe
> failures are virtually unheard of. Is it the oddball (i.e. non-Lycoming)
> engines experimentals often use? How many crashes have there been? How
> many are due to bad flying judgement versus bad airplane?
I subscribe to "Aviation Safety". Each issue has short writeups on the
recent crashes. It strikes me that the majority of homebuilt-related
crashes appear to be due to hot-dogging -- either stall/spin after
a low pass & pullup or just stupid flight into known terrain (power lines
seem to be popular).
There are the occassional control or engine failures to be expected in
the homebuilt market. But engine failure is no excuse for stall/spin.
Build it right, fly it right, and no 9-G maneuvers and you should be
at least as safe as any spam can.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
| Subject: | safety of homebuilts |
>>Reply to your message of 4/8/97 3:50 AM
>>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (Tom Sargent)
>>
=09
Tom,
A few years ago I looked up as many RV accidents as I could find and classi=
fied them into my own subjective categories. I found two major areas of ac=
cidents. 1.) engine failures 2.) Aerobatics close to the ground. =20
Since then, the Aerobatics close to the ground category has gone to essenti=
ally zero! There hasn't been a single one in years ( that I am aware of ).=
=20
If you want to do your own analysis, go to the NTSB site and you'll have to=
download each month individually (www.ntsb.gov/Aviation/months.htm). Co=
py as many as you can stand into one directory and then use a search tool t=
o return all occurances of homebuilt. This sounds clunky but I haven't fo=
und any search engines that actually work on the NTSB accident data. I s=
uggest you do this to put your mind at ease and also to draw your own concl=
usions.
Good luck
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda RV-3 (was Sun and Fun) |
Tom Martin wrote:
>
>
> I just returned from S&Fun and sunday I saw the time trials for the
> medallian climb contest. Allan tolle and his RV3 mazda was against the 454
> chev engine P51 replica.
> I wasn't even close. The RV3 won hands down!! These were only the trials to
> set individual handicaps but the rv3 performance was hard to believe.
>
> Tom Martin
> RV-4
Tom,
I saw that little exhibition myself. It was VERY impressive. I made a
point of wandering over to the RV-3 after the airshow ended. I had a
chance to examine the engine bay and speak briefly with Everett Hatch.
Everett was checking spark plugs and answering many questions.
One thing I noticed was two sets of what looked like injector nozzles on
the engine. One pair (NO2?) was mounted in the intake plenum. The other
pair (fuel?) were mounted in the individual intake runners near the
engine block. The braided hoses ran back through the firewall. I've
installed Nitrous Oxide systems on everything from BMW M3's to Norton
850 Commando motorcycles. That plumbing sure looked like a Nitrous setup
to me. I couldn't find out where the two hoses went after going behind
the firewall though. I was looking for a Nitrous tank, but didn't see
one. Am I right? Perspiring minds want to know!!
Anyone out there know anymore about this craft. Elon, are you listening?
I'd like to say that Mr. Hatch's work in the engine bay was first rate.
The fabrication of the fuel intake system was especially fine.
Charlie (forget the Novacain, give me the gas :-) ) Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Imron and others |
Yes, after almost 7 years, it's time to paint the plane and like almost
everything else from the finishing kit onwards, there are many unanswered
questions. My latest is about paint quality:
Some say Imron is the only way to go and is very much worth the price. "It is
the industry standard." Others say that there are other brands that are just
as good and are a lot cheaper too. Although, among that other group are, of
course, all the people who are trying to sell those other brands. On the
other hand, auto finishes, especially on better cars, seem high quality and
certainly as good as any aircraft finish.
What do you think? What are the options for quality paint. Are there
advantages to paying-up for Imron, or is it just a matter of the "famous
label."
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide
Andy Gold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: safety of homebuilts |
> How many are due to bad flying judgement versus bad airplane?
>
> ---
> Tom Sargent, Tucson, AZ, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
All stall-spin accidents are caused by "bad flying judgement". I
think the problem lies in the fact that most polots are trained in
idiot-proof Pipers and Cessnas. The light and powerfull controls
in most home-built aircraft make it real easy to wander into the
danger zone. A lot of home-builts also have less forgiving wing
profiles that tend to transition from flying to stall very rapidly.
A Bushby MustangII that I have several hours in stalls with almost
no warning at all. The only thing that seperates a stall from
flight is a very brief (about .5 Sec.) shake of the stick. The
trade-off is that the airplane packs more thrill into any one
minute of flight that all the Pipers and Cessnas that I have ever
piloted. The RVs have the light controls, but not the NLF wing.
A little less thrilling than some designs, but way more fun than
anything that ever came out of a Piper or Cessna factory.
Build the RV, learn to fly in properly, have fun.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
The email address listed at their web page is webmaster(at)tansoul.com. Ive
never used it so I cant verify that it works.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Does Belted Air Power have an e-mail address?
>
>Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The best stuff I've found for the canopy is 3M CLEARCOAT POLISH which is
available at Automotive paint stores. This stuff actually rejuvinates
deterioriated canopys, and does a great job of removing fine scratches and
hazing in older plexiglass.
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6
N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Frank Justice |
> Is it true Frank's plane has flown?
Yes, the "stealth plane" has flown, or so I'm told. He's so damned
low-key about it, it's a wonder anytone knows about it at all.... His
email address is Frank_K_Justice(at)ccm.ssd.intel.com (note those are '_'s,
not '.'s).
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Cessna heated Pitot |
My mounting bracket is longer that that used on a Cessna. Without
looking wierd, it is long enough to get the pitot tube opining close
to the spot that Van's recomends. The brackets are available in both
paintable and chrome plated form.
Call me for a flyer of the product.
Warren Gretz
3664 E. Lake Dr.
Littleton, CO 80121
(303) 770-3811 eves and weekends
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cessna heated Pitot
Date: 4/7/97 7:28 AM
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> Are you guys with Cessna heated pitot tubes using the original mounting
> pylon or a custom one? The Cessna mounts are generally a lot shorter
> than the 5-6" that Van's recommends. Also I think in most cases the
> Cessna tubes are mounted farther forward on the wing than the standard
> location on Van's planes, which might make up for the shorter mount.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6
> randall(at)edt.com
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
I used the Warren Gretz (SP) mounting bracket, Installed in one bay
toward the tip, than Van's tube. This is a great product, Mr Gretz
should be proud!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D Hiatt" <OttoPilot_MSN(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | safety of homebuilts |
Tom, I was concerned the first time I saw numbers like these. But numbers
alone don't tell you the whole story.
Remember that "homebuilding" encompasses airplanes from the TEAM MiniMAX all
of the way up to the BD-10J jet. That's a pretty wide flight envelope. Think
too about the kinds of airplanes we all learned to fly... Cherokee 140s and
Cessna 150s. I soloed a 150, but I like to think that I learned to fly in a
Grumman AA-1B, an excellent little two-place airplane that rewarded proper
flying skills but also has a bit of a reputation in the accident statistics.
Now, some people say it's a lousy trainer because it is so demanding, but I
don't see it that way--what can you learn from an airplane that covers up your
mistakes?
Every airplane is a compromise in design. Someone thought about every aspect
and had to balance the needs of one mission against the needs of another and
they almost always end up skewing things toward safety and easy-to-fly and
easy-to-manufacture. Homebuilts don't tend to go down that road. Designers
(who may or may *not* have as much training and experience as spam-can
designers) tend more toward higher wing loading and higher performance
generally than what you can buy at the Cessna store or Piper dealer. That's
one of the attractions of homebuilding, after all--getting an airplane that's
faster than the store-bought variety. Think about how long people have been
carving and hammering their own airplanes together and how few attempts at
homebuilding a Cessna 172 -type of plane there have been. For many, that's the
point!
Think too about the process of building. Today's QuickBuild kits are just
coming to the flightline. Most of the experimentals flying today and licensed
in this year represent several years of effort. That's several years of "When
you gonna fly that thing?" and several years of "I want that pile of $%&@# out
of my garage!" It generally doesn't represent several years of keeping up with
the new FARs and staying current. I know a lot of guys who flew home from
Oshkosh with plans and receipts and then didn't fly again until they got their
planes finished. Skills can really deteriorate in several weeks. If it's been
several months or years your first day back will remind you more of your last
hours before your checkride than your last hours.
So what have we got here? We've got pilots who haven't flown in a long time
suddenly turning themselves lose on the world in airplanes that aren't much
like what they flew back when they *were* current and requiring skills far
beyond what they may have had back then to begin with. There are a lot of
factors involved, impatience, ego and such which force young Lindbergh into
the seat and into the air... even knowing that the weather may not be right,
the airplane may not be right and the pilot may not be right. It's a recipe
for disaster. Stir in a few friends and neighbors and a video camera and
you've got a story that ends with "...while his horrified family watched from
the ground".
RVs have a good safety record. One of the attractions to me was the flight
envelope--low stall and landing speeds combined with high cruise and top
speeds. Most of the homebuilts out there seems skewed toward one end or the
other. That is, things like the Avids and such fly slow, land slow, cruise
slow, etc. GlasAirs and such trend toward higher cruise speeds, but with
higher stall and landing speeds, too. For what little we give up on the top
end, we get a bunch back on the bottom. RVs are built in the classic tractor
style--engine up front, then wing, then tail. You don't have to unlearn
anything to fly an RV.
Any new airplane represents a challenge. The more time-in-type you have, the
less likely you are to find some scary corner where weirdness lives. RVs have
been around for years and years and if such a corner existed for our little
airplanes, someone would have found it by now. You're going to be at risk that
first hour or so--so do it in someone *else's* airplane! Get some dual, take a
few rides, see what you're going to have to deal with and know what you can
expect. Build your plane according to the plans and don't try anything
stoopuhd that first hour like a roll-on-takeoff and you should be okay. Build
on your first hours by slowly exploring slow-flight and high cruise, try
shallow turns before you start cranking on the Gs and so on. Ease into your RV
like it was a tub of hot bathwater and you'll be fine.
Mark D Hiatt Visit us on MSN v2!
OttoPilot_MSN@msn.com http://Forums.msn.com/Aviation
Aviation Forum Manager, AvChat Mondays 10pm Eastern
The Microsoft Network mic://Chat.msn.com/AvChat
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com On Behalf Of Tom Sargent
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 1997 2:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: safety of homebuilts
There's an article by Richard Collins in the April issue of Flying about
stalls and spins. Along the way it makes some chilling statements about
homebuilts.
I've half decided to order my tail kit this year, but stuff like this
worries me.
---
Tom Sargent, Tucson, AZ, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: safety of homebuilts |
>
>There's an article by Richard Collins in the April issue of Flying about
>stalls and spins. Along the way it makes some chilling statements about
>homebuilts.
>
>Collins claims that, "planes with from one to 3 seats, and especially
snip
Hello,
I was overseas for a year and didn't fly for a year upon return. I went for
my biannual and was amazed at how rusty I had become. I have 350 hours,
instrument rating, and was checked out in an Arrow, 182, Super Cub as well
as the C1xx series. My skills have deteriorated so much that I will go with
an instructor to get my skills back up to snuff.
So I would conclude that a rusty pilot strapping on a new RV would be the
biggest safety concern. Careful construction, inspections, etc. would
minimize the airplane worries.
Vince Himsl
Moscow, ID
RV8 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
> Luckily, as an alternate, it also specifies "Windex with vinegar" This
> is the green stuff, not blue or pink (ammonia), and is hard to find on
> the grocery shelf.
That's because they sell every bottle they can to the military at $50 a pop.
:-)
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: safety of homebuilts |
>Does anybody have statistics for RVs specifically? I assume that airframe
>failures are virtually unheard of. Is it the oddball (i.e. non-Lycoming)
>engines experimentals often use? How many crashes have there been? How
>many are due to bad flying judgement versus bad airplane?
>
>I've half decided to order my tail kit this year, but stuff like this
>worries me.
>
>---
>Tom Sargent, Tucson, AZ, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
Tom,
From all of the things that I've read, your above statements are probably
correct. Flying homebuilts isn't as safe as flying factory airplanes and
flying factory airplanes isn't as safe as driving. Of course, staying in
your house is safer than driving.
I think there are several areas where experimental airplane pilots have
potential problems. There are a lot of accidents related to the first few
flights. There is the possiblility of mechanical problems and, when you
couple this with a pilot who is not current or has never flown a homebuilt
with their generally lighter control inputs and higher performance, you can
set yourself up for some excitement. Buyers of homebuilts built by someone
else seem to have a lot of problems, as well.
There are some pilots, both of homebuilts and factory ships, who take more
chances than others. I hate to say it, but I think there are more "hot dog"
pilots among homebuilders. Buzz jobs, high speed pull-ups and low level
acrobatics are something we've all witnessed. Besides being dangerous, when
an "event" does occur, we all pay in the form of bad publicity. In other
words, I think there is a lot we could do to stack the deck in our favor by
flying in a careful and professional manner.
Van's design is as safe as any out there but they don't handle like a
Cherokee. The best advice I can give is: get some dual. I would highly
recommed Mike Seagar.
As a side note: the person I am helping build a Glastar with (Bill) is a
retired United 747 capitan. He doesn't know how many hours he has as he
quit keeping track. What, maybe 30,000 hours? Who knows? He's also owned
several airplanes: Cessna 180 & 185 and a Barron. His plan for when the
Glastar is finished? To go out to Stoddard Hamilton and get some dual in
the factory airplane. Now, that's what I call a "professional pilot". If
someone with this much flying experience feels that it is prudent to get
dual then probably lower time, less experienced pilots would benefit from
some dual in type, as well.
Get going and build a RV. It's the most fun you'll have in this life and
the finsihed product iw a fine airplane. Get current and treat the airplane
with respect and you'll get along fine.
Regards,
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Imron and others |
>What do you think? What are the options for quality paint. Are there
>advantages to paying-up for Imron, or is it just a matter of the "famous
>label."
>
>Thanks in advance for any help you can provide
>Andy Gold
Andy,
If you're having a professional paint your aircraft, most painters have a
particular paint system that they use and a reluctant to change.
If you're going to paint it yourself, Imron should be fine. I used PPG
Durethane on mine and was satisfied. Some other paint systems that seem to
be mentioned favorabley are Acraglo and JetGlo.
One of the nicest paint jobs that I've seen in awhile is on Craig Bair's
RV-6. It has won several awards. It was painted by a guy who does mostly
automotive, I believe. I can't remember the name of the paint but I did
post the info to the list. Maybe you can search the archives and find the
info. I'm pretty sure it was a base/clear coat system. I have no idea how
durable this pain is but it sure looked nice.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <joe(at)flnet.com> |
Does anyone know where I can by shielded ignition wires for slick mags
along with 90 degree caps. I checked with spruce and they only sell the
harness.
Joe/rightwing
joe(at)flnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Any body out there have any baffle structure cracking problems when
mounting their oil cooler on the baffle behind the left rear cylinder on
an 0-360. It's decision time and I can't arrive at closure from info in
the archives
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Van's Air Force Flight Jackets |
As some of you know, I have a little side business, providing Van's Air
Force merchandise (t-shirts, hats, decals, etc.) for sale through Van's
Catalog. In the past I've avoided hawking the stuff on the list, but I
just delivered the first of the new Van's Air Force Flight Jackets to
Van's, and I just couldn't help myself this time.
I looked long and hard for something that would say "test pilot" instead
of "award jacket", and I think I've succeeded. The jacket is a version
of the USAF MIL-SPEC MA-1 flight jacket, custom made to VAF (i.e. my)
specifications by Alpha Industries, supplier to the US Military.
They are for sale now and listed in Van's new (April 1997) catalog.
Price is $72.
A picture of the jacket is online at:
http://www.edt.com/homewing/emblem.html
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | More on Malcolm's vibration problem |
Regarding my previous message: I just received this. Again, any comments to
janemalj(at)aol.com please.
Frank.
>> Today Patrick and I flew- same noise- no vibration is felt but for the
>>first time I had a pair of young good ears aboard and they signalled that
>>the sound is coming from left aft- about where the opening is for the flap
>> mechanism.!!!
>
>> When we landed a group of "experts" descended on us to help diagnose the
>> problem. Everybody is interested and all have ideas but to date none have
>>hit on it.
>>
>> So tomorrow I will tape up the flap mechanism opening and fly without
>>flaps and see if we have found it. Hmmmm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Vibration problem at 165mph |
Hi All,
I got this request via email. Since I'm not flying yet (and won't be for a
few years :-( ), could someone who is flying offer some suggestions? If you
send them to the list, can you also Cc them to Malcolm at janemalj(at)aol.com
Frank.
>From: philbarb(at)flash.net
>Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 06:40:15 +1200
>To: Frank_z_van_der_Hulst/PEC/NZ(at)pec.co.nz
>cc: janemalj(at)aol.com
>Subject: Brother-in-law's problem
>
>Hello, Frank,
>
>First of all, thank you for your help regarding my brother-in-law's
>problem. Using three different search engines, I found the archives for
>the RV6A. However, when i tried to open them, I kept getting the message
>that Netscape couldn't find them. I don't know what I am doing wrong,
>but I spent last evening and this morning trying to get into them. So...
>I am going to take you up on your offer of further help.
>
>His problem is one of a vibration or sound. The airplane has been flying
>for about a year now, and this problem just came up a couple of month's
>ago. Following is the info he sent to me:
>
><Once it
>starts it can come in at almost any airspeed. I do not feel it at all in
>the
>controls. It is not in the gear- I have never felt the vibration. How
>does
>it sound? Well, you know my hearing- but you could say it is about half
>way
>up the scale- that is not a high pitched sound and definitely not a low
>piched sound.
>
>There are no loose panels on the airplane- the propeller has been
>balanced, I
>have installed a harmonic dampener, and sound dampening foam on the
>inside of many of the aluminum skins where they are flat. The sound or
>vibration (whatever it is) seems to be coming from the forward part of
>the airframe- but maybe not. I am spinning a 70 x 72 Bernie Warnke
>wooden prop. on a 0320-E2D160HP Lycoming engine.
>
>Need anything else?>>
>
>Mal has my old Mac Plus, but knows absolutely nothing about computers
>except how to send and receive e-mail. That is why I have been trying to
>find help for him. He has been trying for months to find his problem and
>is getting rather depressed and very frustrated over it. He hopes to fly
>his plane to Oshkosh this summer along with my husband who has built two
>Glasairs. He's beginning to think he won't be able to go, and that is
>why I appreciate your help so much. We've got to get him in the air
>again!
>
>Again, I thank you VERY much for all your help, as does Mal.
>
>Barbara
>Frank - here is the latest info re my brother-in-law's problem:
>
>> It is an enormous understatement to say that I am depressed, disgusted,
>> resigned, unhappy and totally confused as to what to do next!!!
>>
>> Yesterday I flew and expected that all of the fairing work I had
>completed
>> would not make any difference in the airplane. I was right- the
>> sound/vibration still existed. My hangermate , who is also a Aircraft
>> Inspector and an A & P and instructor went over the airplane with me and
>we could find nothing- I mean NOTHING. So I pulled the top cowl and
>>looked into the engine cavern and lo and behold I FOUND SOMETHING
>>HITTING!!! Finally- something to fix that would fix the problem once and
>>for all!!! So I fixed it (a cable end was hitting the cowl and holding
>>the carb heat flapper open a slight amount).
>
>>
>> So today dawned with great expectations of having finally solved the
>problem
>> by fixing one simple and annoying mechanical thing. So I flew- yeah you
>
>> guessed it- There it was again- It did not come in until almost 165 MPH
>but > then it was vibrating and would occur at almost any RPM or speed.
>Hmmmm!!!! > ( I went to the airport with visions of ordering the paint
>tomorrow and > being there at your place when it arrived and voila- we
>would paint the beast > and then I could look forward to Oshkosh) But now-
>I am not sure just what I > will try next.
>
>> Tuesday (busy on Monday) I will pull the propeller, remove the dynamic
>> dampener and then fly again. OR maybe I will pull the cowl again and
>> reinforce a portion of the lower cowl - a job that will take another
>week. If > I pull the prop that will destroy the balancing that I had done.
>OR maybe I > could have the airframe instrumented to detect the vibration-
>I estimate that > would only cost about 20000 or so. Or I could save a lot
>of grief by just > selling the thing for scrap and returning to playing
>golf and forget all > about all of this aviation nonsense!!!
>
>> So - you see - we will not be painting very soon - if at all. I will
>keep > you informed.
>
>>
>> Disgusted- Malcolm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda RV-3 (was Sun and Fun) |
I spent a lot of time talking to Everett and Alan at Copperstate last year.
I think they got tired of seeing me. What you describe certainly sounds like
a nitrous system, and I dont recall seeing anything like that on the
airplane last Oct.
This is the testbed for the Powersport Iron Eagle conversion. I believe
they are asking about $15000 for the firewall forward package. Everett is
being very particular about who he will sell his system to trying to avoid
having someone with insufficient skills tarnish the company reputation.
The engine is essentially stock Mazda internally. It does have peripheral
port rotor housings to boost power. The throttle blades are installed in the
intake ports just outside the rotor housing to improve idle quality. The
engine is using an Airflow Performance injection system. Horsepower is
supposed to be 200.
The reduction drive is a spur gear system with essentially 0 lash and is a
work of art.
IMHO this airplane sets the standard for auto conversions. When I saw it
fly at Copperstate it demonstrated outstanding performance without the
nitrous system that it is apparently using now.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Anyone out there know anymore about this craft. Elon, are you listening?
>I'd like to say that Mr. Hatch's work in the engine bay was first rate.
>The fabrication of the fuel intake system was especially fine.
>Charlie (forget the Novacain, give me the gas :-) ) Kuss
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJ Molny <D.J.Molny(at)evolving.com> |
| Subject: | safety of homebuilts |
At 14:41 04/08/97 UT, Mark D Hiatt wrote:
>
> ...
>
>RVs have a good safety record. One of the attractions to me was the flight
>envelope--low stall and landing speeds combined with high cruise and top
>speeds.
Mark -
I agree that the low stall speed is a very attractive feature of RV's, and
would have to increase the safety of pattern work, forced landings, etc.
Question: Why do you feel that RVs have a good safety record? I have no
opinion myself, just curious. Thx.
_______________________
DJ Molny "Realisant mon espoir,
Evolving Systems, Inc. je me lance vers la gloire, OK..."
djmolny(at)evolving.com -- Talking Heads
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Bolting and riveting strength |
DIa!? ayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyip resistance or bearing
strength. and ...If you [compare the two systems]you will find that the
shear strength of the bolts determines the utimate strength of the joint.
-------------
Ive
left out the mathematics and some of the assumptions such as
having the surfaces prepared by grit blasting so as to have a known coefficient
of friction, but the point remains that a properly designed bolted joint has:
1.
the load is carried by frictional resistence until,
2. the shear resistence
of the bolts comes into play at which time there is,
3. a 500% safety factor.
For
a properly designed riveted assembly:
1. The load is carried by the
shear resistence of the rivets. and
2. there is a 500% safety factor.
h.
and ...If you [compare the two systems]you will find that the shear strength
of the bolts determines the utimate strength of the joint.
-------------
Ive
left out the mathematics and some of the assumptions such as having the
surface
s prepared by grit blasting so as to have a known coefficient of friction, but
the point remains that a properly designed bolted joint has:
1. the load is carried
by frictional resistence until,
2. the shear resistence of the bolts comes
into play at which time there is,
3. a 500% safety factor.
For a properly
designed riveted assembly:
1. The load is carried by the shear resistence
of the rivets. and
2. there is a 500% safety factor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Bolting and riveting strength |
Some weeks ago there was a thread re. bolting in which I stated that the load on
a bolted joint is not carried by the shear resistence of the bolts themselves.
Instead, I contended that the load was carried by frictional resistence between
the plates and that said resistence was induced by the load generated by the
bolts.
Near the end of that thread I recieved a quite angry response, from whom I don't
remember, that there was no way the reader was going to believe my statement.
He went on at some length, stopping short of name-calling, but not by much.
I dismissed it at the time but I couldn't help bringing the subject to the list
one more time when I came across a discussion of this very subject in one of my
engineering references. It's only about a page in length and I've cut out the
mathematics. If you're interested in the math you'll find that it's fairly
straightforward, assuming you remember any basic algebra, and can be found in
the text I've referenced. However, it should make you feel good about the
strength of the next bridge you drive across.
Cheers
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
Hello,
Instructions say to drill pilot holes in HS-810,814 but plans have some
holes marked to drill with fuselage.
Do I drill all pilot holes including fuselage ones?
Thanks
Vince Himsl
RV8-tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis E. Smith Jr." <lsmith(at)coastalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crankshaft Reconditioning |
>
>I am looking for someone to work on my crankshaft. Has anyone on the list
>used Aircraft Specialties Services in Tulsa, OK. Bruce Bell RV-4 #2888
> About to skin fuselage. Email- rv4bell(at)aol.com
>
>
I used them last august to overhaul my crank and cam for my IO-360-A1B6.
My journals were standard size, so all they had to do was polish them and
overhaul the counterweights. I am very pleased with the service that I
received.
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
Rocky Mount, NC
RV-8 #80126 N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | air/oil separator |
Fellow RVers,
I'm in the process of installing a Jeff Rose, Electroair electronic
ignition. Naturally, the best location for the "black box" is right where
I've mounted my oil/air separator so I'm thinking of removing it and just
routing the crankcase breather directly to the top of the exhaust pipe.
The question is: is the oil/air separator necessary? It occurs to me that
of the five airplanes that I've owned that I don't remember separators being
installed. I guess the thing to do is just remove it and see what happens.
The belly of the six has always stayed very clean.
I'm trying to finish up my second annual if the weather would only get
warmer. I'm on a plan to gain a month every year so next year I'll be into
May. I've got 350 hours on the RV-6. So far, on this annual, I've not run
on to any problems. I was able to turn a couple of the 3/8" close tolerance
spar bolts, but not by much. I checked the torque on all of the bolts. The
only other problem found so far was one cracked and leaking Duracell (size
"D") in the ACK ELT and it put goo all over the inside of the case. These
batteries have a date of Jan 99 and have been installed since Feb. 95.
There was an AD on the left mag (the one with the impulse coupling) and
there is a 100 hour inspection required unless some new parts are put on
which increases the inspection interval to 500 hours. My mechanic friend
made the change for me.
If I find anything else, I'll let you know.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
writes:
>
>I just returned from S&Fun and sunday I saw the time trials for the
>medallian climb contest. Allan tolle and his RV3 mazda was against the
>454
>chev engine P51 replica.
>I wasn't even close. The RV3 won hands down!! These were only the
>trials to
>set individual handicaps but the rv3 performance was hard to believe.
>
Yep. Everett Hatch is building my 0-360. He told me in confidence that
the Powersport RV-3 would be the one to watch in the 3D Dash. He worked
some of his magic on that rotary. I expect he will tell us what he did,
in the event he wins the race.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darwin Esh <103126.3212(at)CompuServe.COM> |
To All: Just got back from a great SUN and Fun. I would like to thank all who
sent info on the canopy. I'm sure it will help.
As to a bandsaw I bought a 14 inch Delta saw from Builders Square. It has
worked very well and I am satisfied.
Dar RV 6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D Hiatt" <OttoPilot_MSN(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | safety of homebuilts |
I'm not sure I understand the question.
Why do *I* think they're safe?
That low-speed ability is a part of it. The all-metal construction is strong
(rated for aerobatics) so there's less worry about something coming apart on
you if you encounter a bump in a turn. Being able to slow it down makes a huge
difference as to survivability, in the event there *is* a crash.
Less energy to be dispersed has to make forced landings easier, good strength
means being able ride through incidents that might cause trouble in other
airplanes. I think a lot of fatals in other airplanes are just injuries in RV
crashes. A lot of injuries in other types are walk-aways in RVs and a lot of
walk-aways in other types are just little footnote entries in RV pilots'
logbooks.
Why do I think they're *safe*?
This is purely my own opinion, from reading the NTSB summaries I've come
across. It seems like a much higher percentage of crashes in other types
result in injuries or death, while the reports for RVs are fairly uncommon and
don't always include fatals. Some planes are pretty scary--the BD-5 has a huge
fatal rate from a cursory glance at flightlines and summaries. Van could have
made a lot of other choices. He could have tried to shave a few pounds here
and there. He could have gone with one of the hotter airfoils that were
getting all of the press back the -4 and -6 were designed. He didn't. You can
park your RV in the sun and not worry about something coming apart on you in a
dozen years--you can even keep it tied-down in the sun! If you crash your
RV-6, you'll have a lot going on in your mind, but you won't have to worry
that the engine will be here, soon. Talking with a number of builders and
owners, none of them have complained about the flying qualities at any
combination of loading and cg. I just am not worried that I'm going to be
doing any experimenting, with this experimental. I couldn't say that, if I was
building a Legend or something like that.
Mark D Hiatt Visit us on MSN v2!
OttoPilot_MSN@msn.com http://Forums.msn.com/Aviation
Aviation Forum Manager, AvChat Mondays 10pm Eastern
The Microsoft Network mic://Chat.msn.com/AvChat
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com On Behalf Of DJ Molny
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 1997 5:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: safety of homebuilts
I agree that the low stall speed is a very attractive feature of RV's, and
would have to increase the safety of pattern work, forced landings, etc.
Question: Why do you feel that RVs have a good safety record? I have no
opinion myself, just curious. Thx.
_______________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)Veda.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: RV-List: Crankshaft Reconditioning
Message not delivered to recipients below. Press F1 for help with VNM
error codes.
VNM3011: Jim Tennison@CMRL@Veda
VNM3011 -- UNEXPECTED FAILURE CONDITION
An unexpected failure condition occurred. Check for error
conditions in the mail service log and the server log of the
server that maintains the mail service
>
>I am looking for someone to work on my crankshaft. Has anyone on the list
>used Aircraft Specialties Services in Tulsa, OK. Bruce Bell RV-4 #2888
> About to skin fuselage. Email- rv4bell(at)aol.com
>
>
I used them last august to overhaul my crank and cam for my IO-360-A1B6.
My journals were standard size, so all they had to do was polish them and
overhaul the counterweights. I am very pleased with the service that I
received.
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
Rocky Mount, NC
RV-8 #80126 N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
| Subject: | Don George, Inc. |
Dear Gang,
Don George, Inc. has a booth at Sun'n Fun. They are Lynching engine over
haulers. Don claims he can sell me an overhauled 0-320, 160 hp. with
new:
cylinder head assemblies
carburetor.
mags, harness, plugs
cam and lifters and push rods
starter (I think he said lightweight)
alternator
fuel pump
He purchases the cores from a guy in Kansas who does Cessna 172
conversions.
They are thoroughly inspected as are the cranks. The cost is about
$11,000.
Is this for real? Does anyone have experience with Mr. George? He is a
smooth
talker and that makes me wonder a little bit. OK, you engine gurus, what
do you think, and what else should I have asked?
Lou Willig, larywil(at)op.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Imron and others |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Andy,
You might want to look into another Dupoint product call "Chroma One".
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Yes, after almost 7 years, it's time to paint the plane and like almost
>everything else from the finishing kit onwards, there are many
unanswered
>questions. My latest is about paint quality:
>
>Some say Imron is the only way to go and is very much worth the price.
"It is
>the industry standard." Others say that there are other brands that are
just
>as good and are a lot cheaper too. Although, among that other group are,
of
>course, all the people who are trying to sell those other brands. On the
>other hand, auto finishes, especially on better cars, seem high quality
and
>certainly as good as any aircraft finish.
>
>What do you think? What are the options for quality paint. Are there
>advantages to paying-up for Imron, or is it just a matter of the "famous
>label."
>
>Thanks in advance for any help you can provide
>Andy Gold
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
When fitting the F-674 skin on the RV-6 Tip-up, can the cutout for the
rear conopy section be made per plans before final assembly, or does
trimming of the canopy line have to be done while actually fitting the
plexiglass?
I would be much easier to accurately make that cut with the skin off the
airplane.
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
RE: RV-6Q, F635, Drawing 47, Builders Manual Page number Q9-2
How many F635B spacers should this assembly have?
The drawing shows one, but the instructions suggest one on each arm.
It would seem that the manual can be interpreted either way, but I just
want to be sure so that I can do it right.
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Imron and others |
Andy and the list:
At last an area that I am (somewhat) qualified to talk about (paint).
Polyurethanes (of which Imron is one) are excellent paints for the exterior
of an airplane. And Imron is probably the best of the breed, but not by a
large margin. For all intents and purposes, other manufacturers - such as
PPG and Prat & Lambert - produce polyurethanes that are just as good as
Imron.
Imron (like all polyurethanes) has three disadvantages:
1. They contain isocyanates. Deadly. you MUST wear a forced-air
respirator when shooting polyurethane or any other product containing
isocyanates.
2. You cannot to 'spot' repairs. Unlike an enamel or lacquer that will
allow you to use a reducer or thinner to blend the repaired area in with
the surrounding paint, a repair to polyurethane requires that the entire
panel be repainted.
3. Polyurethanes are not as forgiving of poor gun technique. Lacquers and
enamels dry due to the evaporation of the solvent (reducer or thinner).
Lets say that you are shooting enamel, and you apply it a bit too heavily
to a spot. You can stop right there and tease the gun's trigger and shoot
JUST SOME AIR at the spot, causing the surface of the paint to flash,
saving you from a run or sag. No so with a polyurethane. Polyurethane
does not dry, it 'cures', much like an epoxy cures. You can blow air on an
impending sag all you want and it will do no good.
Imron is probably most famous for its 'wet look'. If that's what you are
looking for, then a better choice might be one of the modern
basecoat-clearcoat finishes that are used on most automobiles today.
Please don't get me wrong. I'm not down on Imron. In fact, I painted the
interior (cabin area) of my RV-6 with Imron. Nothing is more
scuff-resistent than Imron.
I will probably paint my airplane with one of three things:
- DuPont Imron
- DuPont Centari (acrylic enamel)
- DuPont Centari w/ the 2000 Performance Pack (converts centari to a
polyurethane with a VERY high gloss).
By the way, I'm biased towards DuPont products. I think that PPG is just
as good, but I buy DuPont (even though it costs more) because :
1. I'm familier with it. Many years ago, I switched brands of paint (from
DuPont to Acme) and had to learn how to shoot paint all over again. For a
guy like me that doesn't handle a paint gun very much and doesn't get very
much practice, that's a problem.
2. DuPont spends a lot of money on customer education. DuPont offers a
wonderful book entitled "DuPont Auto Refinishing Handbook" for about $15
that contains a wealth of information. DuPont's "Imron Aircraft Finishes"
application note is outstanding AND it is free.
One important point about paint: it is expensive. I seem to recall than
Van's now can get you a good deal on a well known brand of paint
(Superflight, I think), but for the life of me I can't find the article in
my old RVators.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
installing electrical and avionics
>
>Yes, after almost 7 years, it's time to paint the plane and like almost
>everything else from the finishing kit onwards, there are many unanswered
>questions. My latest is about paint quality:
>
>Some say Imron is the only way to go and is very much worth the price. "It is
>the industry standard." Others say that there are other brands that are just
>as good and are a lot cheaper too. Although, among that other group are, of
>course, all the people who are trying to sell those other brands. On the
>other hand, auto finishes, especially on better cars, seem high quality and
>certainly as good as any aircraft finish.
>
>What do you think? What are the options for quality paint. Are there
>advantages to paying-up for Imron, or is it just a matter of the "famous
>label."
>
>Thanks in advance for any help you can provide
>Andy Gold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>Now, as opposed to cleaning, they specify Meguiars MGH-10 plastic
>polish to remove streaks and minor scratches. This should be
>available through automotive or motorcycle shops (Meguiars No.7)
Oops! That should read "(Meguiars No. 10)"
Darrell Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | St. Paul, MN Weekend Seminar |
Due to heavy snow melt in the rivers, the RV gathering
orginally scheduled for April 19th in St. Paul has been
canceled . . . the airport is under water and will be
closed for at least 8 weeks.
So that not all is lost, Bob Nuckolls will be offering
a weekend seminar on aircraft electrics April 19th,
and 20th at the Country Inn, 6003 Hudson Road,
Woodbury, MN. See our website at aeroelectric.com
for a seminar description. This was originally an
RV-specific gathering but the seminar is open to
builders or maintainers of any type aircraft. E-mail
or call for details (316-685-8617).
BTW . . . seminar attendees have a better than 1:20
chance of taking a Magellan GPS2000 hand-held GPS
receiver home with them! Here's your chance to tap
into over 35 years of experience with aircraft elecrical
system design and fabrication.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ted_boudreaux(at)om.cv.hp.com |
| Subject: | Re: Don George, Inc. |
Be sure to find out which type of O-320's he's selling. It sounds
like he may be selling H2AD's. Check the RVator for more details on
this engine. Not necessarily a bad engine, but there are some special
care and feeding procedures. You may also be able to beat the price
(if they are indeed H2AD's) by shopping around.
Ted RV4 3886 Empennage
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Gang,
Don George, Inc. has a booth at Sun'n Fun. They are Lynching engine
overhaulers. Don claims he can sell me an overhauled 0-320, 160 hp.
with new:
cylinder head assemblies
carburetor.
mags, harness, plugs
cam and lifters and push rods
starter (I think he said lightweight)
alternator
fuel pump
He purchases the cores from a guy in Kansas who does Cessna 172
conversions. They are thoroughly inspected as are the cranks. The cost
is about $11,000. Is this for real? Does anyone have experience with
Mr. George? He is a smooth talker and that makes me wonder a little
bit. OK, you engine gurus, what do you think, and what else should I
have asked?
Lou Willig, larywil(at)op.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Alternator Circuit Breaker Tripping |
---------------------
Subj: Alternator Circuit Breaker Tripping
Date: 97-04-06 20:07:38 EDT
From: RVBLDR
I have a perplexing problem and hope some of you electrical type gurus can
help. My C-150 Alternator CB (60 amp) trips under full load (radio,
transponder,taxi and landing light, nav and beacon on) when engine rpm
exceeds 1200 RPM and electric flaps are cycled. CB will not trip when engine
is not running, even when flaps are cycled and all electrics are on. I Have
checked and cleaned all connections which is about the limit of my electrical
expertise. Anything else is pure speculation on my part. My local
maintenance shop tested CB to 45 amps and it held fine. I'm hesitant to
spend bucks to replace CB if problem is voltage reg or alternator or ?.
Bucks are tight and SUN-N-FUN calls. Would appreciate any help/suggestions.
Empennage finished, Working on wings.
Thanks,
RVBLDR(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS-810, HS-814 |
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
Hi Vince,
I am building a -6A, so IF the 810 and 814 are the same as the
610 and 614, then I would say No. I think the procedure will be that you
drill the holes for the fuselage when you begin assembling the Hor. Stab.
WITH the fuselage. That way you can mark and drill the holes and maintain
proper edge distance with all the parts after everything has been
aligned. If you drill the fuselage attach holes now, they may not align
properly with the fuselage when you start attaching the H.S. Perhaps
some RV-8 builders further along can verify this. I'm not sure of
construction differences between the -6A and the -8. Hope this helps.
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
H.S. skeleton about to be taken off hold.
writes:
>
>Hello,
>
>Instructions say to drill pilot holes in HS-810,814 but plans have
>some
>holes marked to drill with fuselage.
>
>Do I drill all pilot holes including fuselage ones?
>
>Thanks
>
>Vince Himsl
>RV8-tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Alternator Circuit Breaker Tripping |
---------------------
Subj: Alternator Circuit Breaker Tripping
Date: 97-04-06 20:07:38 EDT
From: RVBLDR
I have a perplexing problem and hope some of you electrical type gurus can
help. My C-150 Alternator CB (60 amp) trips under full load (radio,
transponder,taxi and landing light, nav and beacon on) when engine rpm
exceeds 1200 RPM and electric flaps are cycled. CB will not trip when engine
is not running, even when flaps are cycled and all electrics are on. I Have
checked and cleaned all connections which is about the limit of my electrical
expertise. Anything else is pure speculation on my part. My local
maintenance shop tested CB to 45 amps and it held fine. I'm hesitant to
spend bucks to replace CB if problem is voltage reg or alternator or ?.
Bucks are tight and SUN-N-FUN calls. Would appreciate any help/suggestions.
Empennage finished, Working on wings.
Thanks,
RVBLDR(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Guess what I found when I went to catch up on work before going back to
Sun'n'Fun tomorrow! Gold-anodized angles and plates plus all needed
hardware to strengthen the RV-3 wing spars to +-6G - free of charge!
This for a plane that was started back in '77 ! What other kit company
takes such responsibility for their products? Just to show - Van's in a
class above any other! Thanks Van!
Finn Lassen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RCB <snaproll(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS-810, HS-814 |
Vincent S. Himsl wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Instructions say to drill pilot holes in HS-810,814 but plans have some
> holes marked to drill with fuselage.
>
> Do I drill all pilot holes including fuselage ones?
>
> Thanks
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8-tail
Nope. I had the same question so I called Van's to clarify. Tom told
me that those holes are not pilot drilled until the unit is "in
assembly" with the fuselage.
Roy
#80096
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda RV-3 (was Sun and Fun) |
Charlie Kuss wrote:
The RV3 won hands down!! These were only the trials to set individual handicaps
but the rv3
performance was hard to believe.
----------------------------
...That plumbing sure looked like a Nitrous setup to me. I couldn't find out where
the two hoses
went after going behind the firewall though. I was looking for a Nitrous tank,
but didn't see
one. Anyone out there know anymore about this craft. Elon, are you listening?
----------------------------
I am not familiar with this RV-3. From what you describe it could very easily
be a NO2 set-up.
With quick disconects the tank could have been removed before you got there. Since
you witnesed
the take-off and many othere must have filmed it -- conclusive proof would be if
anyone saw what
looked like a release of "steam" or a contrail exit from any place on the plane
just prior to the
full-power take off. If you saw it - he was using NO2! But he sounds quite clever
and may have
been just sneeky enough to hide the purge in a manner as to not be seen.
Some background for anyone interested: NO2 is a liquid around 900 PSI under ambient
conditions.
The systems I know of use BOTH liquid gasoline and LIQUID NO2 through calibrated
orfices to
accomplish the extra horsepower. That O2 is your oxidzer and allows the appropiate
increase of
fuel. This mixture ratio is critical and will detonate an engine if malfunctioning.
Unfortunately as you release the liquid NO2 from the storage tank it will instantly
vaporize as
it hits the warm, LOW pressure plumbing. And you now have gaseous NO2 introduced
to a jet that
was calibrated for a liquid. (Not a good thing)
The "steam" is caused by purging (venting) all of the gaseous NO2 from the plumbing
until pure
liquid is running through the system to the NO2 orfice. Once the plumbing is full
of liquid you
can safely run the NO2 system for extra power. The "steam" is actually NO2 vapor
but it looks
just like steam to someone not familiar with the system. If you saw the steam he
is definately
"on the bottle". If you didn't see it - he is a hell of a clever guy. I love
it!
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vibration problem at 165mph |
Sombody said...
...I get a vibration sound- most likely a harmonic - at about 165 MPH. Once it
starts it can come
in at almost any airspeed. I do not feel it at all in the controls. How does it
sound? ... you
could say it is about half way up the scale- that is not a high pitched sound and
definitely not
a low piched sound.
Disgusted- Malcolm
-----------------------------------
Malcom:
Sure is hard to trouble shoot from what was posted. I know you tried but for me
you left out the
most important stuff.
I know you said it will occur at any air speed but:
Does the sound change PITCH in relation to AIR SPEED?
Does it change PITCH in relation to ENGINE SPEED?
I don't think the sound SCALE is as important as sound CHANGE with some variable
condition? If
you can determine that then you can narrow your search.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
I'm ready to rivet my HS-610 and HS-614 to the HS-602. Drawing 3pp shows
that the 4 rivets directly adjacent to the center line must be set with the
flush heads aft but doesn't say which direction the heads should be for the
rest of the rivets. Since it doesn't specifically direct me to rivet with
the flush head aft am I correct in assuming that the flush head can be on
the forward side of the assembly?
Also, will the squeezer yokes from Avery's fit any CP-214 style pneumatic
squeezer?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.
Ray and Nancy Murphy
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV6A empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Glenn,
... I would reccommend making a large paper (or stiff card)
cutout first and fitting that. I think if you follow the plans dimensions
you will find yourself with a cutout that will be lower than you want at
the sides of the roll bar. I thought I left plenty spare, and only just
made it. You will also be able to use this paper template later to trim
the plexi ... so you don't have a smaller cut-out than plans .... see the
archive for my mistake in this area.
... hope this helps .... Gil (wish I made a template ...:^) Alexander
>
>Hi,
>
>When fitting the F-674 skin on the RV-6 Tip-up, can the cutout for the
>rear conopy section be made per plans before final assembly, or does
>trimming of the canopy line have to be done while actually fitting the
>plexiglass?
>
>I would be much easier to accurately make that cut with the skin off the
>airplane.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Don George, Inc. |
Louis Willig wrote:
>
> Dear Gang,
>
> Don George, Inc. has a booth at Sun'n Fun. They are Lynching engine
> over haulers. Don claims he can sell me an overhauled 0-320, 160 hp.
> with new:
>
> cylinder head assemblies
> carburetor.
> mags, harness, plugs
> cam and lifters and push rods
> starter (I think he said lightweight)
> alternator
> fuel pump
>
> He purchases the cores from a guy in Kansas who does Cessna 172
> conversions.
> They are thoroughly inspected as are the cranks. The cost is about
> $11,000.
> Is this for real? Does anyone have experience with Mr. George? He is a
> smooth
> talker and that makes me wonder a little bit. OK, you engine gurus,
> what do you think, and what else should I have asked?
>
> Lou Willig, larywil(at)op.net
Must be an H2AD Engine. NOTHING wrong with that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis E. Smith Jr." <lsmith(at)coastalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vibration problem at 165mph |
>>
>><>Once it
>>starts it can come in at almost any airspeed. I do not feel it at all in
>>the
>>controls. It is not in the gear- I have never felt the vibration. How
>>does
>>it sound? Well, you know my hearing- but you could say it is about half
>>way
>>up the scale- that is not a high pitched sound and definitely not a low
>>piched sound.
>
Malcolm,
I developed a noise on the RV-4 that I used to own that sounds similar to
what you are describing. I had been flying the plane for about a year
before it ever appeared. After about two frustrating months of try to find
this noise, it was finally solved. Seems that the aft canopy skirt was
touching the turtle deck and at certain speeds would set up a buzzing or
vibrating noise that was hard to tell where it was comming from. After
placing a small rubber channel around the skirt where it rested on the
turtle deck, the noise dissappeared.
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
Rocky Mount, NC
RV-8 #80126 N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don George, Inc. |
Louis Willig wrote:
>
> Don George, Inc. has a booth at Sun'n Fun. They are Lynching engine
> over haulers. Don claims he can sell me an overhauled 0-320, 160 hp.
> with new:
>
> Is this for real? Does anyone have experience with Mr. George? He is a
> smooth
> talker and that makes me wonder a little bit. OK, you engine gurus,
> what do you think, and what else should I have asked?
>
> Lou Willig, larywil(at)op.net
I purchased just such an engine, an O-320 E2D. With all of the new parts
it became a 160 hp Bendix injected E2D (solid crank).
I live just to the south of Orlando and was refered to him by some local
builders. He has a good reputaion here and puts out a quality product.
His shop is very clean, well organized, and his workers proffessional. I
haven't run my engine yet but, based on what I saw and heard, I have
confidence in the engine.
He walks around with a mobile phone unit & head-set so he can manage the
shop and still speak with customers directly. He knows his stuff.
Boris Robinson
RV-4, starting fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Pattern |
> I'm ready to rivet my HS-610 and HS-614 to the HS-602. Drawing 3pp shows
> that the 4 rivets directly adjacent to the center line must be set with the
> flush heads aft but doesn't say which direction the heads should be for the
> rest of the rivets. Since it doesn't specifically direct me to rivet with
> the flush head aft am I correct in assuming that the flush head can be on
> the forward side of the assembly?
Hmm. I hope I didn't goof when I did mine. Only the 4 rivets nearest the
centerline are flush heads on mine. The rest are round-head rivets. Maybe
your last sentence wasn't really supposed to have "flush" in it?
Anyways, a year or two ago, we had a thread about this. Basically, we all
agreed that you should insert the rivets through the thinner material first,
driving the new head against the thicker material. The theory is that you
would rather form the new head against the thicker material, which can
stand the abuse better. Thus, insert all your rivets so that the formed
head is forward -- just like the 4 flush ones you need to do.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | C-150 Alt Breaker Problem |
/I have a perplexing problem and hope some of you electrical
/type gurus can help. My C-150 Alternator CB (60 amp)
/trips under full load (radio, transponder,taxi and
/landing light, nav and beacon on) when engine rpm
/exceeds 1200 RPM and electric flaps are cycled.
This is a DESIGN problem endemic with ALL Cessnas.
It's a condition that happens too many times . . .
sometimes with unhappy consequences.
A 60-amp alternator, under some conditions, will put
out MORE than 60 amps. It's unusual for an airplane
to DRAW more than 60 amps but consider this scenario.
Master switch left on and you go out to fly on a cold
morning. You put jumper cables on and get the engine
started. Now, the alternator is COLD, battery discharged,
but you need to run lots of things on your way out to
the runway. Under this condition, the alternator
may indeed be putting out up to 70 amps because it's
cold and the airplane loads PLUS battery recharge loads
exceed 60 amps.
Now our happless friend is unaware of the fact that
his alternator b-lead breaker has opened and he
launches into the overcast only to have everything
go dark minutes later when he uses up what little
charge was put back into the battery during preflight.
Nothing is broke . . . everything is working just the
way it was designed to do. Yet a properly annointed
flight system has been designed into thousands of
airplanes with a potentially hazardous flaw. . . .
/CB will not trip when engine is not running, even when flaps
/are cycled and all electrics are on.
Yes, because the alternator is not putting out any power
when the engine is not running.
/I Have checked and cleaned all connections which is
/about the limit of my electrical expertise. Anything
/else is pure speculation on my part. My local
/maintenance shop tested CB to 45 amps and it held
/fine.
I'd hope so . . . it is after all a 60-amp breaker.
/I'm hesitant to spend bucks to replace CB if problem is
/voltage reg or alternator or ?. Bucks are tight and
/SUN-N-FUN calls. Would appreciate any help/suggestions.
First, how old is your battery? Is it fully charged
while all this is going on? Normally, the condition
you are experiencing can occur only if the battery
is ADDING to normal aircraft loads. It's also possible
that your alternator is a bit more robust than the
production average and/or the breaker has drifted down
slightly in its trip setting.
This doesn't represent much of a hazard if you
understand the phenomenon and avoid the situation
that precipitates the event . . . don't turn EVERYTHING
on at once. On the other hand, if this is a new
phenomenon then something has CHANGED. You should
track it down . . . shorted cell in battery? Voltage
regulator set too high? Have you checked the bus
votlage with engine running? Shouldn't be over 14.2 volts
in warm climes. Is the battery fully charged when this
happens (go fly around for an hour with as much stuff
OFF as you can . . . if the airplane is ammeter
equipped, see that battery recharge current has reduced
to a few amps and that the bus voltage is not too high.
You need to deduce the COMBINATION of things that's causing
the breaker to trip. Putting a clamp on ammeter on
the alternator b-lead while duplicating the trip
condition would be useful . . . you can SEE how much the
alternator is putting out when it happens. There's no
substitute for test equipment.
In amateur built airplanes, I recommend at least 70-amp
protection on a 60-amp alternator . . . remember, fuses
and breakers protect wires . . . not equipment. If the
60-amp breaker pops for reasons specific to it's job
in the airplane then the alternator is HURT BAD . . .
shorted diodes most likely. Having a 4AWG b-lead wire
protected with 70 amp fuse is very much in order.
This is another classic example of how little most
FBO staff know about troubleshooting electrical systems.
Protect yourselves guys . . . knowlege is a powerful
tool.
Moral of the Story: Don't jump-start any airplane and
launch into the blue until the battery is well on its
way to being fully charged. Exceptions: Day VFR, you
KNOW about the possiblity of nuisance trip, you REDUCE
loads as much as possible to keep the alternator loads
down until the battery is recharged, and you keep an
eye on the breaker. Unfortunately, while boring holes
in clouds, breakers are not on most pilot's scan lists.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Pattern |
>
>I'm ready to rivet my HS-610 and HS-614 to the HS-602. Drawing 3pp shows
>that the 4 rivets directly adjacent to the center line must be set with the
>flush heads aft but doesn't say which direction the heads should be for the
>rest of the rivets. Since it doesn't specifically direct me to rivet with
>the flush head aft am I correct in assuming that the flush head can be on
>the forward side of the assembly?
>
Except for those 4 rivets the drawing calls for AN470AD4-6 rivets. Since
they are not flush rivets it doesn't matter too much what side the shop
head is on. Look at the section B-B' drawing.
Be sure to countersink enough to receive the dimple. I didn't. A
countersink to receive a dimple must be much deeper than a countersink to
receive a rivet. The caution about this is in a later stage of the
instructions.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6QME N441LP Left Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
Bob, If you do some mild aerobatics, the air/oil seperator may
help keep oil off your belly. This assumes you don't have a
full inverted oil system.
When you roll inverted, all the oil goes to the 'top' of the engine
where the vent is and this will put a lot of oil in the vent tube.
When you roll upright, this oil will now drain or be blown out
the vent onto the belly. The oil seperator will help catch some
of this and recycle it back into the sump.
Herman
>
> Fellow RVers,
> I'm in the process of installing a Jeff Rose, Electroair electronic
> ignition. Naturally, the best location for the "black box" is right where
> I've mounted my oil/air separator so I'm thinking of removing it and just
> routing the crankcase breather directly to the top of the exhaust pipe.
> The question is: is the oil/air separator necessary? It occurs to me that
> of the five airplanes that I've owned that I don't remember separators being
> installed. I guess the thing to do is just remove it and see what happens.
> The belly of the six has always stayed very clean.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)Veda.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
Subject: RV-List: C-150 Alt Breaker Problem
Message not delivered to recipients below. Press F1 for help with VNM
error codes.
VNM3011: Jim Tennison@CMRL@Veda
VNM3011 -- UNEXPECTED FAILURE CONDITION
An unexpected failure condition occurred. Check for error
conditions in the mail service log and the server log of the
server that maintains the mail service
---------------------- Original Message Follows ----------------------FROM too
long. Original FROM is '"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" '
---------------------- Original Message Follows ----------------------
/I have a perplexing problem and hope some of you electrical
/type gurus can help. My C-150 Alternator CB (60 amp)
/trips under full load (radio, transponder,taxi and
/landing light, nav and beacon on) when engine rpm
/exceeds 1200 RPM and electric flaps are cycled.
This is a DESIGN problem endemic with ALL Cessnas.
It's a condition that happens too many times . . .
sometimes with unhappy consequences.
A 60-amp alternator, under some conditions, will put
out MORE than 60 amps. It's unusual for an airplane
to DRAW more than 60 amps but consider this scenario.
Master switch left on and you go out to fly on a cold
morning. You put jumper cables on and get the engine
started. Now, the alternator is COLD, battery discharged,
but you need to run lots of things on your way out to
the runway. Under this condition, the alternator
may indeed be putting out up to 70 amps because it's
cold and the airplane loads PLUS battery recharge loads
exceed 60 amps.
Now our happless friend is unaware of the fact that
his alternator b-lead breaker has opened and he
launches into the overcast only to have everything
go dark minutes later when he uses up what little
charge was put back into the battery during preflight.
Nothing is broke . . . everything is working just the
way it was designed to do. Yet a properly annointed
flight system has been designed into thousands of
airplanes with a potentially hazardous flaw. . . .
/CB will not trip when engine is not running, even when flaps
/are cycled and all electrics are on.
Yes, because the alternator is not putting out any power
when the engine is not running.
/I Have checked and cleaned all connections which is
/about the limit of my electrical expertise. Anything
/else is pure speculation on my part. My local
/maintenance shop tested CB to 45 amps and it held
/fine.
I'd hope so . . . it is after all a 60-amp breaker.
/I'm hesitant to spend bucks to replace CB if problem is
/voltage reg or alternator or ?. Bucks are tight and
/SUN-N-FUN calls. Would appreciate any help/suggestions.
First, how old is your battery? Is it fully charged
while all this is going on? Normally, the condition
you are experiencing can occur only if the battery
is ADDING to normal aircraft loads. It's also possible
that your alternator is a bit more robust than the
production average and/or the breaker has drifted down
slightly in its trip setting.
This doesn't represent much of a hazard if you
understand the phenomenon and avoid the situation
that precipitates the event . . . don't turn EVERYTHING
on at once. On the other hand, if this is a new
phenomenon then something has CHANGED. You should
track it down . . . shorted cell in battery? Voltage
regulator set too high? Have you checked the bus
votlage with engine running? Shouldn't be over 14.2 volts
in warm climes. Is the battery fully charged when this
happens (go fly around for an hour with as much stuff
OFF as you can . . . if the airplane is ammeter
equipped, see that battery recharge current has reduced
to a few amps and that the bus voltage is not too high.
You need to deduce the COMBINATION of things that's causing
the breaker to trip. Putting a clamp on ammeter on
the alternator b-lead while duplicating the trip
condition would be useful . . . you can SEE how much the
alternator is putting out when it happens. There's no
substitute for test equipment.
In amateur built airplanes, I recommend at least 70-amp
protection on a 60-amp alternator . . . remember, fuses
and breakers protect wires . . . not equipment. If the
60-amp breaker pops for reasons specific to it's job
in the airplane then the alternator is HURT BAD . . .
shorted diodes most likely. Having a 4AWG b-lead wire
protected with 70 amp fuse is very much in order.
This is another classic example of how little most
FBO staff know about troubleshooting electrical systems.
Protect yourselves guys . . . knowlege is a powerful
tool.
Moral of the Story: Don't jump-start any airplane and
launch into the blue until the battery is well on its
way to being fully charged. Exceptions: Day VFR, you
KNOW about the possiblity of nuisance trip, you REDUCE
loads as much as possible to keep the alternator loads
down until the battery is recharged, and you keep an
eye on the breaker. Unfortunately, while boring holes
in clouds, breakers are not on most pilot's scan lists.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda RV-3 (was Sun and Fun) |
Mike Wills wrote:
>
> I dont recall seeing anything like that on the
> airplane last Oct.
>
Mike, can you discribe the fuel system setup as you saw it last October?
Warren replied that what I was asking (the fuel line setup) about was a
differenial pressure injection system. I have never heard that term
before. I want to know if it is some type of system I am unfarmiliar
with or merely a euphemism for Nitrous Oxide Injection. A jacket was
draped across the floor area of the cockpit, preventing viewing of that
area when I saw the plane.
> The engine is essentially stock Mazda internally. It does have peripheral
> port rotor housings to boost power. The throttle blades are installed in the
> intake ports just outside the rotor housing to improve idle quality. The
> engine is using an Airflow Performance injection system. Horsepower is
> supposed to be 200.
> The reduction drive is a spur gear system with essentially 0 lash and is a
> work of art.
Please elaborate on this PSRU design
> IMHO this airplane sets the standard for auto conversions. When I saw it
> fly at Copperstate it demonstrated outstanding performance without the
> nitrous system that it is apparently using now.
>
I agree with you on this point. I'm thinking of going back to Sun n Fun
for another look.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda RV-3 (was Sun and Fun) |
Elon wrote:
> >
> conclusive proof would be if anyone saw what
> looked like a release of "steam" or a contrail exit from any place on the plane
just prior to the
> full-power take off. If you saw it - he was using NO2! But he sounds quite clever
and may have
> been just sneeky enough to hide the purge in a manner as to not be seen.
Elon,
Just vent it into the tailcone. It's not toxic, although it sure is
cold! Evaporation point is somewhere around -129 degrees F (I may be off
a little here)
>
If you didn't see it - he is a hell of a clever guy. I love it!
> Elon
So do I. More background. Use of Nitrous Oxide was first used by the
Luftwaffe during the Second World War. It was a short term solution to
the horsepower advantage the allies had from mid war on. They tried
using pure oxygen at first with predictably disasterous results. Most
people think this is an automotive technique.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving to Chicago |
>> I will be moving to Chicago in early June, and am looking for shop and
storage space for my RV-6A project (I'm ready to jig the fuselage). I
would appreciate a message from any Chicagoland RVers who know of available
space in the Near North part of town. Please also let me know about any
useful builders' group in the area. Responses should be directed to me at
ernstrm(at)alpha.hendrix.edu
Thanks. <<
I just ordered my empannage kit last week and ordering tools this week so
I'll soon be joining the ranks of RV-6 builders. The is a pretty good
builders group in the area called Chicago Area RVators. I don't have the
address handy, but I'll pass it along when I get home. The group meets
informally about on Fridays for lunch around 11:30 at Clow airport (1c5)
which is southwest of Chicago. Not real convient from the North but a good
place to talk over issues and meet some VERY experienced builders. Two
airports north of Chicago are Palwaukee (PWK) and Waukegan Regional (UGN).
I think both have space avaliable but you'll have to call to verify actual
avaliablity.
Just shout if you've got more Chicago Area questions.
Mike Nellis
MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda RV-3 (was Sun and Fun) |
--=_ORCL_17474191_0_11919704091329370
He probably just vented the NO2 into the cockpit and laughed his a$$ off while
blowing away
the Mustang.
******************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation *
* Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center *
* Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700 *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002 *
******************************************************************************
RV-6A #24721 (Wings)
--=_ORCL_17474191_0_11919704091329370
Date: 09 Apr 97 00:58:41
From:"Elon "
Subject:Re: RV-List: Mazda RV-3 (was Sun and Fun)
Charlie Kuss wrote:
The RV3 won hands down!! These were only the trials to set individual handicaps
but the rv3
performance was hard to believe.
----------------------------
...That plumbing sure looked like a Nitrous setup to me. I couldn't find out where
the two
hoses
went after going behind the firewall though. I was looking for a Nitrous tank,
but didn't
see
one. Anyone out there know anymore about this craft. Elon, are you listening?
----------------------------
I am not familiar with this RV-3. From what you describe it could very easily
be a NO2 set-up.
With quick disconects the tank could have been removed before you got there. Since
you
witnesed
the take-off and many othere must have filmed it -- conclusive proof would be if
anyone saw
what
looked like a release of "steam" or a contrail exit from any place on the plane
just prior to
the
full-power take off. If you saw it - he was using NO2! But he sounds quite clever
and may have
been just sneeky enough to hide the purge in a manner as to not be seen.
Some background for anyone interested: NO2 is a liquid around 900 PSI under ambient
conditions.
The systems I know of use BOTH liquid gasoline and LIQUID NO2 through calibrated
orfices to
accomplish the extra horsepower. That O2 is your oxidzer and allows the appropiate
increase of
fuel. This mixture ratio is critical and will detonate an engine if malfunctioning.
Unfortunately as you release the liquid NO2 from the storage tank it will instantly
vaporize as
it hits the warm, LOW pressure plumbing. And you now have gaseous NO2 introduced
to a jet
that
was calibrated for a liquid. (Not a good thing)
The "steam" is caused by purging (venting) all of the gaseous NO2 from the plumbing
until
pure
liquid is running through the system to the NO2 orfice. Once the plumbing is full
of liquid
you
can safely run the NO2 system for extra power. The "steam" is actually NO2 vapor
but it looks
just like steam to someone not familiar with the system. If you saw the steam he
is
definately
"on the bottle". If you didn't see it - he is a hell of a clever guy. I love
it!
Elon
--=_ORCL_17474191_0_11919704091329370--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> When fitting the F-674 skin on the RV-6 Tip-up, can the cutout for the
> rear conopy section be made per plans before final assembly, or does
> trimming of the canopy line have to be done while actually fitting the
> plexiglass?
Yes you could do it that way if you're real sure about what you're
doing, Problems with trimming the canopy might make you wish you'd left
as much as the skin available as possible to work with.
>
> I would be much easier to accurately make that cut with the skin off the
> airplane.
Just leave the skin clekoed until after skin and canopy are fitted and
you are well into projects forward of the baggage compartment area.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy observations, canopy shiming question (6 slider) |
> - Am I supposed to shim the front of the sliding
> canopy to match the contour of the windshield?
That's probably best. I used varying length strips of .016, curved to
match the frame and layered together as shims. Once I got the shims
right I glued them together with proseal, then ground the edges smooth
and painted them the finish color. The result was some nice "tapered"
shims. This was a fair amount of fussy work but looks a lot better than
a bunch of separate shims would.
> - It looks like the sides of my sliding canopy want to bulge out 1/4"
> or so. Will the side skirts hold them in?
Yes. But note that this bulge will also tend to push the frame out, so
if the frame rides nicely in the center of the tracks without the plexi
on there, then once you get it on and clamp the sides to the frame, the
rollers will be rubbing against the outside of the rail. I found it
necessart to bending the front bow of the frame inward so it was about
1/2" narrow without the plexi clamped to it. Once the plexi was on and
clamped to the side rails of the frame, the two preloads cancelled each
other out and the rollers are right where they need to be. Try to work
this out before doing final shimming at the front, as any re-bending
will change the shape of the front bow.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Imron and others |
Dave Barnhart wrote:
At last an area that I am (somewhat) qualified to talk about
(paint).
Polyurethanes (of which Imron is one) are excellent paints for the
exterior
of an airplane. And Imron is probably the best of the breed, but
not by a
large margin. For all intents and purposes, other manufacturers -
such as
PPG and Prat & Lambert - produce polyurethanes that are just as good
as
Imron.
Imron (like all polyurethanes) has three disadvantages:
1. They contain isocyanates. Deadly. you MUST wear a forced-air
respirator when shooting polyurethane or any other product
containing
isocyanates.
2. You cannot to 'spot' repairs. Unlike an enamel or lacquer that
will
allow you to use a reducer or thinner to blend the repaired area in
with
the surrounding paint, a repair to polyurethane requires that the
entire
panel be repainted.
3. Polyurethanes are not as forgiving of poor gun technique.
Lacquers and
enamels dry due to the evaporation of the solvent (reducer or
thinner).
Lets say that you are shooting enamel, and you apply it a bit too
heavily
to a spot. You can stop right there and tease the gun's trigger and
shoot
JUST SOME AIR at the spot, causing the surface of the paint to
flash,
saving you from a run or sag. No so with a polyurethane.
Polyurethane
does not dry, it 'cures', much like an epoxy cures. You can blow
air on an
impending sag all you want and it will do no good.
Imron is probably most famous for its 'wet look'. If that's what
you are
looking for, then a better choice might be one of the modern
basecoat-clearcoat finishes that are used on most automobiles today.
Hi dave: I'm along way off from painting, but while we're on the subject
maybe you could answer a couple of questions that have been on my mind.
1) Do you know if you can add a pearl agent to Imron.? I like the looks
of the new cadalacs and nissan's.
2) Would weight be a concern with the base coat, clear coat process?.
thanks, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers
Well, Van let the RV-9 out of the bag at the RV banquet last night.
He said there was an NEW RV in the works, but when asked what it was
going to be, he declined to answer.
So gang, what do you think it will be.
I think it will be a two place, tamdem, retract, TIO540, that will
go by a lance air so fast it will suck the paint off of it ( hey I
can hope for it anyway ).
Let the rumor mill turn
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee, FL
after 3 1/2 years my airplane has a motor on it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
>--------------
>
>Listers
>Well, Van let the RV-9 out of the bag at the RV banquet last night.
>He said there was an NEW RV in the works, but when asked what it was
>going to be, he declined to answer.
>So gang, what do you think it will be.
>I think it will be a two place, tamdem, retract, TIO540, that will
>go by a lance air so fast it will suck the paint off of it ( hey I
>can hope for it anyway ).
>Let the rumor mill turn
>
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
>Tallahassee, FL
>after 3 1/2 years my airplane has a motor on it.
>--------------
I bet it will be a 4-place of some sort...
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Imron and others |
<< What do you think? What are the options for quality paint. Are there
advantages to paying-up for Imron, or is it just a matter of the "famous
label." >>
DuPont's Chroma One is the choice of virtually all the builders in my area.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Imron and others |
>
>Dave Barnhart wrote:
>
> At last an area that I am (somewhat) qualified to talk about
> (paint).
>
> Polyurethanes (of which Imron is one) are excellent paints for the
> exterior
> of an airplane. And Imron is probably the best of the breed, but
> not by a
> large margin. For all intents and purposes, other manufacturers -
> such as
> PPG and Prat & Lambert - produce polyurethanes that are just as good
> as
> Imron.
>
> Imron (like all polyurethanes) has three disadvantages:
> 1. They contain isocyanates. Deadly. you MUST wear a forced-air
>
(snip)
> 2. You cannot to 'spot' repairs.
>
(snip)
>
> 3. Polyurethanes are not as forgiving of poor gun technique.
(snip)
>
> Imron is probably most famous for its 'wet look'.
(snip)
better choice might be one of the modern
> basecoat-clearcoat finishes that are used on most automobiles today.
>
(snip)
>1) Do you know if you can add a pearl agent to Imron.? I like the looks
>of the new cadalacs and nissan's.
>
>2) Would weight be a concern with the base coat, clear coat process?.
>
Yes, this is a question I'm trying to gather info on. I intend to go it on
my own at the present, I Croix 9 HVLP that I'm trying to master. I like the
wet look but am afraid of all the bad stuff I hear on Imron types. Not
having any real spray painting experience, anyone who would like to tell
what paints they like and some "how I did it" would be great. I checked the
archives without much luck in this area.
Thanks,
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Don George, Inc. |
Louis Willig wrote:
>
> Dear Gang,
>
> Don George, Inc. has a booth at Sun'n Fun. They are Lynching engine
> over haulers. Don claims he can sell me an overhauled 0-320, 160 hp.
> with new:
>
> cylinder head assemblies
> carburetor.
> mags, harness, plugs
> cam and lifters and push rods
> starter (I think he said lightweight)
> alternator
> fuel pump
>
> He purchases the cores from a guy in Kansas who does Cessna 172
> conversions.
> They are thoroughly inspected as are the cranks. The cost is about
> $11,000.
> Is this for real? Does anyone have experience with Mr. George? He is a
> smooth
> talker and that makes me wonder a little bit. OK, you engine gurus,
> what do you think, and what else should I have asked?
>
> Lou Willig, larywil(at)op.net
Lou
I did not buy a motor from Don, but I did talk to him ( he is a smooth
talker ) . One of the FBO's here in Tallahassee has Don do all of
thier engines and they say he is very good. Sounds like a good deal.
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
Wasnt there a comment in an RVator last year about an O-200 being rebuilt
for a future project? Hmmm... Lets start the rumor mill churning.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
wiillsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Listers
>Well, Van let the RV-9 out of the bag at the RV banquet last night.
>He said there was an NEW RV in the works, but when asked what it was
>going to be, he declined to answer.
>So gang, what do you think it will be.
>I think it will be a two place, tamdem, retract, TIO540, that will
>go by a lance air so fast it will suck the paint off of it ( hey I
>can hope for it anyway ).
>Let the rumor mill turn
>
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
>Tallahassee, FL
>after 3 1/2 years my airplane has a motor on it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 FOR SALE |
Contact the owner at: E-Mail: LVAVIATION(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
>
>As you stated, the gascolator is not in the low point. Years ago,
that>The concept of it being at the low point was probably so water in the
fuel
>would migrate to the gascolator, where if it froze, it would not impede
>fuel flow. However, for this to work, the system would need to have a
>continuous gradient so water would not be trapped in the fuel lines.
>Obviously in a low wing with tanks in the wings, this is not possible, so
>lets not think of it being at the low point in the system, just that it is
>a reservoir where separation can take place. Bill
>
>Bill
>RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
>flying hours.
>These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
>position of my employer.
>
>
Bill,
I'm missing something here. I asked a similar question a few months ago,
and got no response. If fuel is being pumped from a tank and is carrying
particles
why would they just settle in a gascolator. Its not really a giant, calm
reservoir. At 5-8 gal/hr., there is enough turbulence to prevent
precipitation of particles and trash.The few gascolators I've seen have
coarse screens in them. It seems to me that a good in-line filter will do a
better job of filtering the fuel. And if the fuel tanks are the lowest
point in the system,
then we should be getting nearly all of the settled or condensed water at
their
drains. All of what I just said makes sense to me. Is it correct? Or is there
"another side of the story"?
Lou Willig, larywil(at)op.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
My guess is an IO-540 powered low wing 4 place with performance comparable
to the 6 series except for fuel burn of coarse. Which means I better get
this six done so I can start on a nine! Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I question the etching ability of Mar-Hyde. The Material Safety Data Sheet
(RPM Talso Corp, sheet no. 0245) lists acetone, MEK, Isobutyl acetate and
toluene as the active ingredients. Non of these exhibit any significant
etching action on aluminum. Phosphoric acid is the common etching agent in
"real" etching primers.
Dennis -- 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: aol.com!DCHamilton(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Primers
> Date: Monday, April 07, 1997 8:46 AM
>
>
> The same primer can be used on everything, either zinc chromate, Dupont
> Variprime [self-etching, two-part] , or Mar-Hyde. Mar-Hyde single stage
> self-etching primer, part no. 5112, is a one-component primer with no
mixing
> required and is available in spray cans or the usual paint cans. The
> important
> matter in painting is to be sure that the surface is clean, that is, as
clean
> as a
> dish washed in the dishwasher. You don't want oil from fingermarks.
Wiping
> the
> surface with a solvent like laquer thinner does not do an adequate job,
and
> in fact after wiping , residue can still be seen by looking at the
surface in
> reflected light. -- David Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Bolting and riveting strength |
Message text written by Tony ATKINSON
>Take a 3/16 nut and bolt. Van calls for 25 inch pounds. But the nylock
nut needs 15 inch pounds to turn it.
So, do you set the torque wrench to click at 40 inch pounds?
<
Welllllllllll, let's look at it this way: All the nut does is stretch the bolt
via the inclined plane of the threads. In fact, the friction between the
threads is such a problem that all sorts of exotic ideas have been concocted to
induce the stretch without putting a torsional load on the bolt. (would you
believe heating them with an internal wire and then just finger-tight on the
nut? Or how about ultrasonic beams shot through the length of the bolt and
measure the time to return, a la' sonar? How about grease the threads?)
Well, all the nyloc is doing is resisting some of the torque and masking the
load on the bolt.
Sooooooooo, I would say yes.
But. (don't you love it!) too much torque and you twist the bolt in half.
I'll go look up the specs, you go twist a dozen or so to forty, fifty, and sixty
pounds and we'll check back afor you go doing it.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
> Well, Van let the RV-9 out of the bag at the RV banquet last night.
> He said there was an NEW RV in the works, but when asked what it was
> going to be, he declined to answer.
> So gang, what do you think it will be.
> I think it will be a two place, tamdem, retract, TIO540, that will go by
> a lance air so fast it will suck the paint off of it ( hey I can hope
> for it anyway ).
> Let the rumor mill turn
I can think of some possibilities:
A severely beefed-up and modernized RV3, fast enough to make people say
"Harmon who?"
Everyone's been nagging him to do a 4-place for ages. Maybe he finally is
going to do one. (Just to make it easier to go to trade shows with all his
stuff). Competing with the Stallion, Glastar, and the new Murphy plane in the
heavy hauler class would be a cinch, considering Van's rep.
Or just to be silly, a half-scale DC-3. :-)
Or maybe a flying boat.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <75303.1623(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Bolting and riveting #2 |
I tried to append a file to the item I put on the "list" a couple of days ago
but it evidently didn't come through. What I said was a synopsis of some
research I done in Standard Handbook of Machine Design:
1. A properly designed shear joint is designed for 5x the load seen on the
weakest system.
2. In a system of bolted plates that have been grit blasted to provide a known
coefficient of friction, the resistence to slip induced by the bolts squeezing
the plates together is far greater (varies with the bolts, materials, and torque
loads) than the ability of the same bolts to withstand shear loads.
So keep your surfaces clean, lube the threads, and torque the nuts to the
specified load.
Cheers,
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
The April issue of Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing Newsletter is in the mail.
My printer, who prints my newsletter for free and allows me to pass the
savings on to my subscribers, surprised me with a special job. He printed it
with a full color picture of my plane. I had expected only a black and white
picture made from the color picture that I sent him to scan. I wrote that it
was too bad that the picture could not do it justice and described the color
scheme, but he edited that out of the text since the picture does do it
justice in full color.
This issue includes a section called "To Do, or Not To Do, That is the
Question". It discusses what I did different from the plans and whether it
turned out like I wanted and whether I would do it again. It also discusses
lessons that I learned and what I would do differently if I had it to do
over. The newsletter is not really a local newsletter as the name would
suggest. I have nearly 400 subscribers all over the world. It is dedicated
to helping you build your RV better and easier, while avoiding the mistakes
that others have made who are ahead of you in building.
If you are interested in subscribing, drop me an E-mail with your address and
I will send you the first two issues of 1997 and a promise of two more
helpful issues. They can cross your check in the snail mail. It costs $5.00
per year and comes with a money back guarantee.
Jim Cone, Editor
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing Newsletter
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
(314) 928-8703
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Don George, Inc. |
I have a Don George engine (O-320 E2D, modified to 160 hp) and I am very
satisfied. Service and assistance after the sale was outstanding. He is
very honest and delivers exactly what he promises and more. I would buy
another engine from him in a heartbeat.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
Hello all, I'm greedily following the info on painting, as I am getting
ready to take the plunge myself. My 6A has been flying for almost 5
months, and I've been too busy having fun to bother with it.
However, the local aiport, in their infinite wisdom, has decided to tear
up all of the taxiways leading to 50 or so hangars ALL AT THE SAME TIME.
This "improvement" is slated to take 6 weeks. So in addition to being
angry for 6 weeks, I thought I'd make use of the time and paint the
airplane.
I've done a fair amount of auto painting a long time ago, but I know
nothing about painting an aircraft. Any and all info would be greatly
appreciated. I'd especially like to hear from people who have done it,
or had it done, what you used, how you prepped, etc. I'm not interested
in taking the airfame apart, so I don't think I'd want to use Alodine or
Alumiprep. It would be hard to get it out of the small areas wouldn't
it? What is an alternate method of prep? Can you Scotchbrite the
alclad, or?
You can Email me direct, though I'm sure a lot of people on the list at
large are interested too.
Also, what are the ramifications of letting the engine sit for 6 weeks?
I'd hate to cause any damage with only 75 hours on it.
Thanks,
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
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Subject: Re: RV-List: Don George, Inc.
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VNM3011: Jim Tennison@CMRL@Veda
April 01, 1997 - April 09, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-cr