RV-Archive.digest.vol-ct
April 17, 1997 - April 23, 1997
David J. Fitzgerald wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am a first time builder - I havent ordered anything yet but am very
> close. I know what tools to order (I think! - Cleaveland tools complete
> airframe kit) - I know to get a belt drive compressor -
>
> What I would like from the group is - What problems have you had? I
> need to really feel like I can finish the project before I purchase
> anything. I know I will love doing it but am afraid of some UNKNOWN
> problem that might totally stump me! (Is this feeling common?)
>
> Has everything gone together smoothly, as advertised?
>
> Are you on time with the company estimates of hours?
>
> Anything will be greatly appreciated - Thanks for the help
David--
As a novice builder myself, I think I can address some of your
concerns. I'm just completing the RV-8 empennage kit, and am awaiting
the arrival of the wing kit.
For someone with engineering experience, the kits are probably quite
intuitive and complete. However, I'm only a dentist. I hope that means
that I have sufficient intelligence and dexterity, especially when it
comes to drilling holes! However, I've been stumped more than once.
I've found the written plans to be somewhat hard to follow at certain
points, and the drawings to be REALLY hard to follow at times. It's
like they wanted to save paper, so they crammed all the stuff they could
on as few pieces of paper as possible! And, believe it or not, there
are errors. If the plans specify a certain size rivet, double check
it. Sometimes the plans are wrong!
What it amounts to is being able to visualize where each step is going,
sometimes getting there without the aid of plans. That's hard for a
novice. I would've preferred more of a cookbook-type of approach, step
by step.
Make SURE you have an RV-of-any-type builder nearby, willing to accept
phone calls for stupid questions at nearly any hour.
Stay in touch with the listers. I've jumped many little hurdles with
the help of my list mentors. They've been very patient, prompt and
kind! Many thanks!!!
Pick your project, order your tools (Cleaveland or Avery), order your
tail kit, order the Orndorff videos, spend a little time on scrap
aluminum to get the feel of the tools and skills, then NIKE! (just do
it.) Accept the fact that you WILL screw up, and you WILL cool your
heels waiting on Van's to send you new pieces-parts to show up. After
doing the tail kit, you'll know if you want to go on. If not, you've
learned a valuable lesson and not wasted tens of thousands of dollars
being miserable. If so, then fill out your living will, kiss your
wife/kids/dog goodbye, and become just another RV-building-hermit in the
garage/basement/hangar!
Good luck...hope this helps.
--Don McNamara
#80113
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Warfield <KeithW(at)ncgwpc.syntellect.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | Fuel sender reliability and type |
Did any one respond to this. I also am interested in capacitive fuel
senders, but have no experience with them. Respond direct if you like.
Thanks,
Keith Warfield RV-6A
kwarfield(at)syntellect.com
----------
From: owner-rv-list
Subject: RV-List: Fuel sender reliability and type
Date: Friday, March 28, 1997 10:35AM
I have a general question to ask from those people with flying RV's. Have
any of you got the capacitance type sender, what types are
available/suitable for RV's and have there been any problems with these
units?
Those with mechanical sender units - have there been problems with any
particular brand?
Reply off list to save list space if you like (lcoats(at)wave.co.nz)
Thanks
L.Coats
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJ Molny <D.J.Molny(at)evolving.com> |
| Subject: | Safety survey: Hours flown. Please reply! |
RVers -
Following up on the safety analysis that I posted last week, I've come up
with a simple (and in retrospect fairly obvious) way to estimate the number
of RV hours flown: Just ask a bunch of RV owners! And what forum could be
better than the rv-list itself?
So, how many hours per year does your RV fly? (Yes, I know most of you are
still bucking rivets... thanks for not pointing that out. :-) ) Please
reply to me directly, not to the list. My e-mail address is:
djmolny(at)evolving.com
or, if the following link is highlighted, just click on it:
mailto:djmolny(at)evolving.com
Thanks in advance! Needless to say, I will update you on the outcome.
And on a related note...
In an off-list e-mail, Tom Sargent asked about the ratio of tricycle to
conventional gear RV's. I found a total of 1606 RV's in the FAA
registration database, of which only 239 (14.9%) are RV-6A's. So it seems
safe to assume that the accident rates reflect the risks associated with
takeoff and landing operations in conventional gear aircraft.
_______________________
DJ Molny "Realisant mon espoir,
Evolving Systems, Inc. je me lance vers la gloire, OK..."
djmolny(at)evolving.com -- Talking Heads
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Bob,
Dont take this the wrong way please. I read your posts constantly and always
see good information and help.
If you have a set of Bose headsets, you have some of the finnest headsets on
the market. If you enjoy music your only getting half the benefitt of your
headsets and If I paid what you did for those headsets I wouldnt settle for
sticking part of a walkman headset inside. If your going to Oshkosh this year
check out the guy at the Quiet Flite booth, take a listen you wont believe
the quality of the intercom. This thing only weighs a couple of ounces, and
isnt to hard on the pocket book. You wont find these being sold by anyone
other than the company who builds them. They advertise very little ( I
sometimes see an ad in Kitplanes). Im not a salesman for them or have no
personal interest in their company. Ive listened to many different type
intercoms and consider this one of the best on the market.
QuietFlite
847-854-2552
Ryan RV4131RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randy(at)tr.reno.nv.us (Randy) |
| Subject: | Re: Hot Jet coatings |
Gary,
where can I find an address on this company? this sounds interesting!
cheers, Randy
RV-6 (skinning wings)
*********
Randy
*********
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randy(at)tr.reno.nv.us (Randy) |
| Subject: | Re: Hot Jet coatings |
Gary,
do you have an address for this company?This sounds very interesting!!
cheers, Randy
(RV-6 skinning wings)
*********
Randy
*********
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Warfield <KeithW(at)ncgwpc.syntellect.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | Re: Hot Jet coatings |
Jet Hot Coatings is located at:
1840 West Drake Drive
Tempe, AZ.
1.602.838-1815
Keith Warfield
RV-6A
kwarfield(at)syntellect.com
----------
From: owner-rv-list
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hot Jet coatings
Date: Thursday, April 17, 1997 10:53AM
Gary,
where can I find an address on this company? this sounds interesting!
cheers, Randy
RV-6 (skinning wings)
*********
Randy
*********
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Fuel sender reliability and type |
>
>
>Did any one respond to this. I also am interested in capacitive fuel
>senders, but have no experience with them. Respond direct if you like.
>Thanks,
>Keith Warfield RV-6A
>kwarfield(at)syntellect.com
> ----------
>From: owner-rv-list
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel sender reliability and type
>Date: Friday, March 28, 1997 10:35AM
>
>
>I have a general question to ask from those people with flying RV's. Have
>any of you got the capacitance type sender, what types are
>available/suitable for RV's and have there been any problems with these
>units?
>Those with mechanical sender units - have there been problems with any
>particular brand?
>Reply off list to save list space if you like (lcoats(at)wave.co.nz)
>Thanks
>
>L.Coats
Just a note to say that I didn't receive any direct email about the above
topic and I am still keen to find out some information for another RV6
builder here who is just doing his wing tanks and wants to install sender
units now and would like to know about the reliability of capacitance type
senders.
One isspro sender in the -6 did die and when I removed the access plate
(what a fiddle) I found the float had managed to fill itself full of fuel so
no wonder it wanted to read empty! There was a tiny pin sized hole at the
axis of this cylindrical float which I repaired with proseal so perhaps all
floats should be immersed in fluid for a week prior to installation just to
check for this problem.
L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 183hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fitzgerald" <theredbaron(at)204.119.177.28> |
| Subject: | Which compressor is the quietest? |
I'm getting conflicting data. Which compressor can I get that will be
QUIET. I thought the the worst type was a oil-less maintenance free
type. Do I want a belt driven type?? Help - tools on the way!
Thanks (and sorry for re-hashing an old subject)
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Fuel sender reliability and type |
Just happened to be flipping thru my file of old RV list mail. I save the
stuff that I find particularly interesting so I dont have to search the
archives later. In any case there was a thread about fuel gauges last year,
8/5 - 8/7. I only have one mail that refers specifically to capacitive
senders , but there may have been more that I didnt save so you might scan
the archives around that time frame. I could forward you the one message I
have if you would like.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Which compressor is the quietest? |
>>I'm getting conflicting data. Which compressor can I get that will be
>>QUIET. I thought the the worst type was a oil-less maintenance free
>>type. Do I want a belt driven type?? Help - tools on the way!
Mitch's SynopsisDump(tm) on air compressors:
Belt-driven cast-iron compressor
+++ MUCH quieter
+ lower frequency noise (more tolerable)
+ longer life expectancy (hearsay)
- can be more expensive
- needs oil and small maintenance
- introduces more water into the lines (my experience)
So if you won't anger neighbors by putting your compressor outside,
or your shop is sufficiently large that you can put the compressor far
away or in a sound-proof-yet-ventilated box, go with the cheaper
oil-less maintenance-free compressor.
It's interested I didn't get ANY water coming out of my line with my old
noisy maintenance-free compressor, even during the middle of last
summer.
Last night I noticed about 10 drops of water on the floor from about a
1/2 hour
of work on the cut-off tool. But I'd rather keep my hearing and do the
20 ft hose
to a water separator and then more hose approach.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | immelmann(at)themall.net (Ed Holyoke) |
| Subject: | Re: Which compressor is the quietest? |
>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: "David J. Fitzgerald" =
>
>I'm getting conflicting data. Which compressor can I get that will be
>QUIET. I thought the the worst type was a oil-less maintenance free
>type. Do I want a belt driven type?? Help - tools on the way!
>Dave
Dave,=20
The Campbell Hausfield 4.5 horse 20 gal for $369 (or thereabouts) at
home depot is not too loud and is durable. Cast iron pump is a good
feature in a compressor (makes em last) and it is belt drive. Most all
the small compressors like the emglo are direct drive oiless and
aluminum cylinders and are noisy. This one has plenty of air for
running die grinders and such. Small compressors will run all lot more
to keep up and get hotter too, but would probably do the job.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 tail
immelmann(at)themall.net
Ed Holyoke
immelmann(at)themall.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
--481_223f-1a2b_5a86-4f7f_6bd0
> I'm getting conflicting data. Which compressor can I get that will be
> QUIET. I thought the the worst type was a oil-less maintenance free
> type.
Correct.
> Do I want a belt driven type??
Yup!
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
--481_223f-1a2b_5a86-4f7f_6bd0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which compressor is the quietest? |
I thought the the worst type was a oil-less maintenance free
>type. Do I want a belt driven type??
Dave: The belt-driven type are WAY quieter than the VERY NOISY oil-less but
more expensive. If I had a choice I would get the belt-driven.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which compressor is the quietest? |
> Which compressor can I get that will be
>QUIET.
None are quiet. A 2 stage iron pumper with a large tank will be the
quietest. The oil free (diaphram) ones are the noisiest.
I have a 2 stage Caisson installed in a sound conditioned box with my other
noisy stuff (a dust collector and a vacuum pump) outside my gagage and
plumbed thru the wall.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Which compressor is the quietest? |
>Last night I noticed about 10 drops of water on the floor from about a
>1/2 hour of work on the cut-off tool. But I'd rather keep my hearing and
>do the
>20 ft hose to a water separator and then more hose approach.
Mike another solution is to run a vertical section of schedule 80 PVC off a
flex connection to the compressor and then back down to the separator.
Water doesn't like to go uphill very well.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Which compressor is the quietest? |
>Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 18:08:39 -0700
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Which compressor is the quietest?
>Cc:
>Bcc:
>X-Attachments:
>
>>Last night I noticed about 10 drops of water on the floor from about a
>>1/2 hour of work on the cut-off tool. But I'd rather keep my hearing and
>>do the
>>20 ft hose to a water separator and then more hose approach.
>
Mitch:
Sorry.
Mike Wills posting was just above yours and I picked up the wrong name
>Mike another solution is to run a vertical section of schedule 80 PVC off
>a flex connection to the compressor and then back down to the separator.
>Water doesn't like to go uphill very well.
>
>
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
I would appeciate the phone or e-mail of the Birds Nest (Robins Nest, or
something like that) fellow out there in colorado who makes the carb
air and cabin heat muffs.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
The quietest compressors are cast iron, belt driven, TWO stage. I have a
Quincey 325, 60 Gal. Vertical. (30" X 30" footprint) You don't want to know
what they cost. I rebuilt two of them and sold the spare for $1000. I
think I got about $250 in the one I kept....Net. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting F-676/677s Skins on RV6A |
I'm in the process of riveting my fuse skins on my RV6A. I know I should
not rivet the forward bottom skin (F-672) prior to installing the landing
gear mounts. But after reading the manual several times, I get the feeling
that I'm suppose to go ahead an rivet the two center bottom skins
(F-676/677) prior to installing the mounts. Is this the correct procedure
or should I leave them off also until my mounts have been installed?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ron Caldwell
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Trim Systems, et. als. |
A number of items went by on this topic recently
and several have statements/questions that I'd like to
comment on. The following mini-diatribe is a response
to a mixture of original posts:
One gentleman asked what the the big deal was about trim
runaway and allowed as how stick forces shouldn't become
so great as to make things unmanagable . . .
I'll suggest that stick forces alone, while they may not
be great for a particular situation, there may be elements
of surprise or distraction that precipitate the mishap.
Grahm's situation is a good example. His airplane may indeed
have been quite flyable in the condition he discovered but
as soon as he sensed something wrong, his modus-operandi
became one of aborting a takeoff within the spaces which
remained in front of him.
Had he KNOWN exactly what the problem was, elected to deal with
it and continued the take-off, the whole thing might well have
ended more happily. But he DIDN'T know and elected to reject
the takeoff. The damage to his airplane was not a direct result
of trim runaway but from a secondary set of circumstances that
might have been triggered by any number of other malfunctions.
Let's consider the issue of stick forces for trim extremes.
How many of you already flying KNOW how manageable your airplane
is with trim set to either limit? This experiment should be
part of your flyoff plan. Go around the patch with increasing
degrees of mis-trim in both directions. Do the same exercise
at cruising speeds as well. Land, and note the position of your
trim tab or make careful note of what your trim indicator meter
says (I like them MUCH better than three-light systems). Do this
exercise for both forward and aft C.G. locations . . . some
airplanes handle very differently at their C.G. limits.
If you find that your system as currently configured is
CAPABLE of presenting you with uncomfortable stick forces,
you should take steps to physically limit the tab's travel.
This should be accomplished by reconfiguration of horn
and linkage geometry. I've seen builders add auxiliary
hard mechanical stops which caused damage to their actuators
because the internal limit switches were set OUTSIDE the
travel of the hard stops.
Many homebuilts have far too much trim authority both in travel
-and- speed. I'm building trim controllers right now for
a group of TA-16 Trojan builders (a big, all metal, 4-place
anphib). We've discovered in early flight testing that the
MAC servos (it takes two per airplane) are much too fast
with a full 14 volts applied in cruise. However, if we
slow them down with voltage adjustment for cruise, then
the system is frustratingly slow during approach. The answer
in this case is a two-speed switch build into the trim controller.
For the Lear 35's I used a switch that actuated at 10
degress of flap or greater to initiate high speed operation.
On the Lear 55 we had a microswitch on the stabilizer
actuator to select trim speed . . . the stab jack was
aways set for a LOT of up-trim in the approach configuration.
I proposed a later design for the Lears that would use
air data values for IAS and adjust trim speed accordingly
to give the pilot a fixed perception of trim action irrespective
of IAS. They never did act on that proposal. A similar
system is still quite applicable to airplanes like the
Lancair or Venture. Ships the size of Europa and Kitfox
can probably get by with a single speed but you still need
to decide WHAT the most comfortable speed is and design that
into your system.
On big airplanes, trim speed was limited by the pilot's
ability to react to a trim runaway. Hands in lap and
a/c trimed for level flight - trim runaway initiated.
Pilot had to wait 3 seconds before reacting. Trim
excursions were not allowed to be so fast that he
could not regain control of the airplane. The 3-second
wait was to allow for the "surprise" factor I spoke
of above.
Has anyone seen the trim used on the Rans S6?
It's looks very much like the Cessna type . . .
. . . wheel for an adjuster. The wheel is part of a worm drive
hooked to a solid wire/cable back to the tab. Very simple,
light weight and all mechanical, no electrics, easy to
see indicator. . . .
There are many variations on the theme out there. The most
important design consideration is slack and/or deflection
loading that can occur in the system when new, when at end
of service life -AND- when some part of it becomes disconnected.
The reason I'm doing this electric trim for the Trojan is because
one builder experience a very dynamic, low speed "flutter" that
drove the elevators stop to stop at about a 1 cycle per second
rate. Very violent but fortunately it occured at low speeds
(approach) and didn't overstress anything. They're not sure what
combination of things brought it back under control (the yolk
was untouchable during the event) but recovery and landing was
made.
The problem proved to be slack generated in the mechanical trim
system when pitch loads deflected structure between cockpit
and tail. After all things were considered, a very short
coupled electric system seemed to be in order. We've begun
flight testing and have yet to develop limits and speeds but
it WILL be done and SHOULD be done on every new airplane.
Seems like we (meaning most kitbuilders and manufacturers) spend
a tremendous amount of time trying to make things more complex
in the quest of convenience. Perhaps we should just look around
more at what has already been done by others so that we can improve
on good sound concepts. I don't mean that we shouldn't try to
come up with something new; there's nothing wrong with that.
It's just that new isn't necessarily always better. I think that
whenever we can serve our purpose with something that is simple
and mechanical, meaning non-electrical, (no offence Bob!) . . .
No offence taken . . .
. . . and does the job that's intended, then we've
accomplished a lot.
But take care that "simplification" doesn't negate some very
important aspect of system performance that the original designer
worked very hard to insure. When it comes to structures and
aerodynamics, not everything is plug-n-play. Amateur builders
have enviable opportunities to explore and incorporate
improvements but there are sound engineering and flight test
principals that have kept test pilots alive for a lot of years.
In the Trojan project alone, I came close to loosing two clients
in two different incidents in a half a year. All attributable to
deficiencies in ORIGINAL design that came to light long after the
first airplane had flown.
Rigidity, multiple load paths, travel limits, speed characterization,
satisfactory failure mode effects analysis, etc. are not just buzz
words. Before you consider any modifications, talk to the kit
designer. Bring your ideas to every forum that will discuss it with
you. Stand up before the world and defend your approach. Only after
you can field all the rocks thrown are you ready to build. Then,
seek the advice of an experienced test pilot to build a flight test
plan that allows you to sneak up on potential problems and perhaps
tickle them just enought to make 'em giggle . . . before they
turn around and bite.
There's nothing wrong with looking at other approaches . . . for
airplanes like Kitfox, may I suggest you look over the system
on the early Pipers? The PA-22 has a mini-stabilizer jack
screw driven by a crank and cable arrangement from the cockpit
overhead. The aerodynamic rigidity of this particular system
is excellent. Lot's of it's pieces can come unhooked without
causing a hazardous condition.
I'm all for simplification whether elecrical or mechanical but I'd
also like to read contributions to these forums that
speak of carefully explored successes; not of smoking holes in
the ground.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Fellow RVers,
Finally got the RV-6 buttoned up and went flying today with the new
Electroair installation. The 150 hp engine did seem like it performed
slightly better but that could have been psychological because of the money
spent.
The engine did seem to start better. My idle speed is up a bit. My full
throttle cruise at 7,500 feet, leaned for best power was 182.9 mph at 2584
rpms, the best performance I've had yet with my 150 hp Lycoming. I didn't
do a lot of testing with the Sensenich prop I now have after I had it
re-pitched but I feel like I probably picked up 30 rpms or so at cruise and
3-4 mph. Now, this could have been because everything was working right. I
could do the same test tommorrow uder slightly different conditions and see
my rpms and cruise drop.
The CHTs are a bit higher, maybe 25 degrees. The two tests that I ran
today were at full throttle. I'll do some more testing at reduced throttle
and see what happens. Should know something about fuel consumption in a few
months.
Was it worth the money? I don't know for sure but my feeling is that I'll
be happy that I converted.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>Bob,
> Dont take this the wrong way please. I read your posts constantly and always
>see good information and help.
> If you have a set of Bose headsets, you have some of the finnest headsets on
>the market. If you enjoy music your only getting half the benefitt of your
>headsets and If I paid what you did for those headsets I wouldnt settle for
>sticking part of a walkman headset inside. If your going to Oshkosh this year
Ryan,
Sorry, my post wasn't very clear. I don't use the "bud" type headset with
the Bose. This is something I used to do in other airplanes that didn't
have an intercom.
I do use the Bose with the Flightcom, which is a stereo unit and it works
OK (but it doesn't sound as good as my living room set-up.) The cassette
player used with the Telex ANR4000 did not work as well. It may be the
Flightcom intercom or maybe I did something wrong when I hooked it up.
Possibly the cassette player. One of these days, I'll try my daughters disc
player.
Thanks for the advice on the intercom, though. I'll look into them for my
next RV. I don't really want to mess with a retrofit of the Flightcom. Too
many wires. The Flightcom works well in all other respects. I like the
digital clearance recorder (great for short term memory problems:) )
Maybe one of these days I can test drive a different system and see what I'm
missing (although my ears don't work as well as they used to. A better
quality intercom might be wasted on me. One reason I bought the Bose---to
save what hearing I have left.)
Thanks for the info.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com (Rob Rimbold) |
| Subject: | Which compressor is the quietest? |
> > Last night I noticed about 10 drops of water on the floor from about a
> > 1/2 hour of work on the cut-off tool. But I'd rather keep my hearing
> > and do the 20 ft hose to a water separator and then more hose
> > approach.
>
> .. another solution is to run a vertical section of schedule 80 PVC
> off a flex connection to the compressor and then back down to the
> separator. Water doesn't like to go uphill very well.
A run of at least 25 feet of pipe is recommended to allow the air to
cool enough to condense the water out of it. Metal pipe cools better
than plastic, but that can be compensated by using a longer run of
plastic. After the 25ft (or more) section, add a vertical section
with a drain at the bottom, and a "T" to a (horizontally located)
water separator and a supply quick-connect.
I've taken an alternative, but similar, approach. I run a 50ft 3/8"
flexible line from the compressor to a 5gallon portable air tank.
I've welded a boss onto one end, so I can connect the air supply as
well as use the existing boss (previously had an air chuck to fill
tires) as an output to a water separator and a shorter hose that
connects to my air tool. Here in humid FL, a couple hours of using a
sander will put about 1/2 a pint of water into the 5gallon tank.
Connecting the sander to the compressor with the 50ft hose sprayed
water all over everything from the air exhaust.
I've replaced the petcock on the bottom of my Campbell Hausfeld
compressor with a piece of 1/4" copper tubing and a brass valve. The
copper tubing continues outside through the wall. This allows
frequent dumping of the water from the compressor tank. Much better
than spraying lots of rusty water on the floor underneath the tank.
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Quiet Compressors |
I just wanted to add for those who have a somewhat larger compressor budget.
Rotary screw compressor. Generally found in industrial applications, they
are lower maintenance and quieter than a belt drive piston unit but the
small ones will run you about 2-3 times more than the 6 hp
Campbell-Hausfeld that I bought at Home Depot for $379 last year. They are
much quieter, no thumping piston action, ,
but expensive.
On another twist, the little extra hp on mine helps it recover quicker.
That is it will make less noise for less time. When you do need the extra
air it's there. It is a 220 volt motor, easy to make an extention cord for
your 220 volt dryer outlet or put in another 220 breaker and an outlet
right below your breaker box..
Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com N6358G
A ship in port is safe but that is not what ships are for.
________________________________________________________________________________
RE: RV6 tip-up roll bar assembly.
Is the seam on the assembly visible on the finished aircraft or is it
covered up by part of the canopy assembly?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Which compressor is the quietest? |
Nowhere in this discussion have I seen mention of an obvious solution.
Wear hearing protectors. I've got 3 or 4 pairs laying about the shop. If I
strike one hammer blow, I put a set on. Same goes for blowing with an air
nozzle, center puching with an automatic center punch, etc. etc.
Every loud noise kills a little of your hearing. After years of flying,
shooting, driving feed trucks and front end loaders and running feed mills,
my hearing has taken a beating. I've been doing the "Whisper test" for my
last four flight physicals because I can't hear the tones in the test
headset. So, protect your hearing so you won't have to go out and buy a
Bose headset.
By the way, my vote goes to the belt drive, cast iron. I used a Sears and
Capt. Bill and I are now using a Coleman.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>
>I would appeciate the phone or e-mail of the Birds Nest (Robins Nest, or
>something like that) fellow out there in colorado who makes the carb
>air and cabin heat muffs.
>--
>Chet Razer
>crazer(at)egyptian.net
Chet,
Rick Robbins, Robbins Wings, 303-422-9389
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Questions from a first time prospective |
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
Hi Dave,
I'm also a first time builder as are a lot of the people here.
You ask what problems we've had. One that I would like to let you
know about that I had, is this. The manual and Orndorff videos do not
coincide exactly. They are both good to have, but things may be done
slightly different between the two. I made a mistake by starting to do
some drilling the way the manual said to do it, and before I did the
other parts that would mate up with the first ones, I watched the videos
to see how George did it. Since his way looked a bit better, that's how I
did the other parts. WRONG thing to do. When doing drilling for matching
parts, don't switch methods in the middle of an operation. I ended up
with egg shaped holes from that little adventure.
As far as the number of hours for completion, I'm not sure. I'm a
long way from that point. As I was told once, it depends on how much of a
perfectionist you would like to be. Don't worry about being stumped,
that's what this list is all about!
Hope this helps you say YES.
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
HS Skeleton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Which compressor is the quietest? |
<19970417.210351.10062.0.drigby(at)juno.com>
| From: | drigby(at)juno.com (David L. Rigby) |
>>I'm getting conflicting data. Which compressor can I get that will
>be
>>QUIET. I thought the worst type was a oil-less maintenance free
>>type. Do I want a belt driven type?? Help - tools on the way!
Dave
A few years back Wood magazine ran a comparison of some air
compressors in the 300-400 dollar range. It was April 94 issue no.69
The compressor that came up on top over all best bang for the buck was
the Quincy 131A20PN3 One of the evaluation points was the noise
level and it received an excellent rating.
I just purchased one from Western Tool supply in Boise, ID for about
390.00 I'm sure if you contact Quincy they could tell you a dealer
in your area. 217.222.7700
As I said I just purchased it so I don't have much experience with it
but it appears to be well constructed and relatively quiet. BTW it
is Oil lubricated, cast iron construction and in my talking around the
cast iron construction and oil lubricated is what you are looking for
if you want something that will last for a long time (lifetime??)
Also I don't have any affiliation with Quincy I'm just relaying some
info I found.
Hope this helps
Dave Rigby
Third hand RV-4 Tail kit
drigby(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
At Sun n' Fun I saw a -4 with a three blade fixed prop. Someone told
me it was painted wood. Does anyony know anything about this prop or
possibly know the owner. The plane in question was white with two
shades of blue trim and had the the name "Dawn" painted on it. I was
also told that Dawn was oriental.
Robert Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Weller <clue(at)sig.use.it> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Questions from a first time prospective |
builder
>
>Hello,
>
>I am a first time builder - I havent ordered anything yet but am very
>close. I know what tools to order (I think! - Cleaveland tools complete
>airframe kit) - I know to get a belt drive compressor -
>
Hello David,
You're at the stage that I was about 9 months ago. I'm going to post to the
group, rather that private E-mail because I feel that there are others who
have an interest in my (and I hope your's too) progress. I've been keeping
both a written log with poloroid pictures, and a spread sheet on the 'puter.
Your query prompted me to review them.
This reply may also be a little bit long, so you are warned.
Your first assumption about the air compressor is not necessarily correct.
I've got an oil-less one that I spec-d to be the biggest one that I could
have without having to go to a 220V circuit. I'm very happy with it. It is
loud, but I have the advantage of having a separate electronics workshop
where I keep it. I don't need compressed air when I'm soldering. My RV work
area is in what was a double car garage. I can hear the thing when it kicks
on, but it's not a big deal. My dog won't go near the compressor, running
or not.
Now to the bottom line of the spread sheet. Since Nov. 3, 1996 I've spent
about $5000 on the project. That includes the Van's tail kit and tools that
I have bought to build the thing. There were some luxury items included in
that cost. For example, the Craftsman tool chest that I've wanted all my
life ($680). I feel at this point that I really can complete the empenagge
(dang that French spelling) with the tools I have.
On to the "time" column on the spread sheet. This is the part that nobody
but a builder would understand. I only log the time that I'm working on the
actual airplane. At this point it comes to 47 hours. That also includes 6
hrs. building the jig. What it does not include is all of the reading and
preparation needed to know, for example, what exactly an AN426AD3-3 rivet
is, or how to set one. Add to that, other little things that really add up
to a lot of time like the not-logged time building the Orndorff practice
contol surface project learning and practicing basic metal working skills.
Or the time to organize the workspace for building an airplane. For
example, there is a "sterile" area that only has RV parts. And the
workbench area that has all of the little plastic shelves carefully labeled
(buy a nice label maker).
>What I would like from the group is - What problems have you had? I
>need to really feel like I can finish the project before I purchase
>anything. I know I will love doing it but am afraid of some UNKNOWN
>problem that might totally stump me!
> (Is this feeling common?)
>
Yes, at least from my viewpoint. I've been a pilot for over 30 years, and
I'm an engineer working for NASA by trade. To me, this RV-8 project is just
like going back to college again. It's something new, sure, but I'm getting
comfortable with it.
>Has everything gone together smoothly, as advertised?
>
Yes. I knew what I was getting into. For me, this is a 5 year project.
I'm ramping up production for a first flight on May 28, 2001. We shall see!
>Are you on time with the company estimates of hours?
>
Who knows? If all you have to do is build, think about how long it took
Van's to get the second RV-8 in the air. About 1 year? I'm a little
embarrased when friends come over and want to see the airplane I'm building.
But, "I" know. I'm happy with the progress. If you, or anybody else, expect
instant gratification with building an airplane, forget it.
>Anything will be greatly appreciated - Thanks for the help
>
Well, it's springtime here in Alabama. With all of the meticulous care that
I've taken with aircraft quality work over the winter, the irony is that
I've just finished putting new blades on my old broken down lawn tractor (no
torque wrench), jumpered the battery, and beat the crap out of the starter
motor to get the stinking thing running. I'm going to mow the yard. Life
goes on.
I hope this helped,
Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting F-676/677s Skins on RV6A |
Ron,
I left these off untill I had drilled the gear mounts in place. I think
this is how most people do it. You probably could do them with the bottom
skins in place but it would be an awful job
Leo Davies
>
>I'm in the process of riveting my fuse skins on my RV6A. I know I should
>not rivet the forward bottom skin (F-672) prior to installing the landing
>gear mounts. But after reading the manual several times, I get the feeling
>that I'm suppose to go ahead an rivet the two center bottom skins
>(F-676/677) prior to installing the mounts. Is this the correct procedure
>or should I leave them off also until my mounts have been installed?
>Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>Ron Caldwell
>rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | 1997 RV-List Fund Raiser! |
Hello Everyone!
I tallied up the 1997 RV-List Support today and the number of contributions
exceeded last year's by over 20 people! The contribution level was also
very impressive, exceeding last years fund raiser by nearly 50%! The ratio
of RV-List members to actual contributors was slightly less than last year,
hanging in at about 8%. There are still a few contributions coming in each
week, so the final percentage will no doubt be slightly higher.
I would like to extend a sincere 'thank you' to all of the people who have
contributed so far. Your support definately makes all the work necessary to
support a list as large as the RV-List worth it! I would also like to thank
all the builders who wrote such nice notes and letters about the RV-List and
how it has been such a valuable resource for them. You're welcome!
I will be using the resources generated by the 97 fund raiser to continue
providing the high quality service we have all come to know and love as the
RV-List! I will be adding additional memory and a new backup tape drive to
the computer system that processes the large amount of List mail each day.
I am still 'shopping' for a local ISP that can provide a dedicated full time
Internet connection for the List at an affordable price. As yet the market
is still a bit pricey in this area but the options are changing fast and
hopefully something will become available soon.
Again, thank you for your support! Below is a list of the 1997 RV-List
Contributors as of 4/17/1997. Thank you one and all!
Matt Dralle
RV-List Administrator
Matronics
-----------------------------
Allan Mojzisik
Avpro Technical Services
B J Nash
Bruce Bell
Bruce Stobbe
Cecil Hatfield
Cheryl Sanchez
Chris Brooks
Clifton Carpenter
Craig Hagen
Craig Hiers
Curtis Hinkley
Dale Wotring
Daniel Boudro
Daniel Morris
David Chasnoff
Don Pfeiffer
Donald McNamara
Edward Weber
Elon Ormsby
Eric Henson
Eric Petersen
Ernesto Sanchez
Francis Malczynski
George Newhall
Harold Sutphin
Ivan Kaiser
J E Rehler
James Hurd
James Wittman
Jim Ayers
Jim Cone
John Ammeter
John Bell
John Brick
John Ciolino
John Darby
John Devlin
Joseph Battista
Joseph Wiza
K W Horton
Ken Hitchmough
Ken Hoshowski
Kenneth Harrill
Kevin Covell
Klans Roth
Laird Owens
Larry Pardue
Lawrence MacDonald
Leslie Williams
Lotar Klingmuller
Louis Willig
M L Harper
Mark Goldberg
Mark Laboyteaux
Mark Reisdorfer
Medicine River Press
Michael Angiulo
Michael Lott
Michael Weller
Paul Osterman
Paul Rosales
Philip Rogerson
Ray Murphy
Richard Olson
Robert Chatham
Robert Hall
Robert Hughes
Robert Reiff
Ron Taborek
Ronald Butcher
Ronald Calhoun
Ronald Francis
Rudolph Albachten III
Stephen Heinlein
Stephen Schmitz
Thomas Benim
Tim Bronson
Tim Lewis
W R Penney
Walt Cannon
William Loctell
Zelda Gifford
-----------------------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Chet,
Thats Robbins wing.
Rick Robbins heat muffs and carb heat muffs, He is out of town this week but
will be home on saturday. (303)-422-9389
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Welding Gear |
Richard Chandler wrote:
(snip) Having never dealt with welding supply companies before, can anyone tell
me what this
stuff costs and what's the best way to get into this?
------------------------
Make sure the O2 bottle quantity is larger than the size of the gas. If you do
a lot of burning
(which uses even more O2) a larger size is very important. Otherwize you will be
running out of
O2 all of the time. Most supply houses will sell you used bottles which are fine
if the "hydro
test date" is current. It is good for 7 years. No one will fill a bottle with
the test out of
date. It is stamped on the top of the bottle with number stamps. Be sure to keep
your receipts
FOREVER. Due to many stolen bottles, many suppliers will not refill without PROOF
OF OWNERSHIP.
For home use you want no less than 75 cu ft for acetylene and at least 115 -120
cu ft for O2
(even larger is better). I don't know current costs - I have had my tanks for
30 years.
If you have never used a torch before -- PLEASE get GOOD SAFETY INSTRUCTION. You
would be
suprised at some of wrong sterotypes and mis-information that is spread. If you
could sit in on
a night school class for a week or two (when the instructor is covering safety)
would be great.
(Tell him what you want to do - don't enroll and then drop). He may become one
of your best
local sources of information AND materials!
Acetylene is an UNSTABLE compound when pressurized to >=15psi. It can DETONATE
due mechanical
schock, temperature change or whatever. Very few people know this but it is stabilized
by acetone
and diatametious earth in the tank. I hold my ears and cringe when I see someone
using tanks
laying on their side! Why should you have a check valve on each line? What knob
do you turn off
FIRST when shutting down the torch? Why? Why do you only crack the Acetylene TANK
a 1/4 - 1/2
turn but the O2 full open? I not giving answers here because you need good instruction
and this
is not the correct forum. If you miss only one of the above - it could be fatal.
It is a wonderful tool to use and enjoy - but (just like your airplane) get proper
instruction.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- Cost of Wel |
[1]Re: RV-List: Cost of Welding Gear 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 2:39 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Richard Chandler wrote:
(snip) Having never dealt with welding supply companies before, can anyone
tell me what this
stuff costs and what's the best way to get into this?
------------------------
Make sure the O2 bottle quantity is larger than the size of the gas. If you
do a lot of burning
(which uses even more O2) a larger size is very important. Otherwize you
will be running out of
O2 all of the time. Most supply houses will sell you used bottles which are
fine if the "hydro
test date" is current. It is good for 7 years. No one will fill a bottle
with the test out of
date. It is stamped on the top of the bottle with number stamps. Be sure to
keep your receipts
FOREVER. Due to many stolen bottles, many suppliers will not refill without
PROOF OF OWNERSHIP.
For home use you want no less than 75 cu ft for acetylene and at least 115
-120 cu ft for O2
(even larger is better). I don't know current costs - I have had my tanks
for 30 years.
If you have never used a torch before -- PLEASE get GOOD SAFETY INSTRUCTION.
You would be
suprised at some of wrong sterotypes and mis-information that is spread. If
you could sit in on
a night school class for a week or two (when the instructor is covering
safety) would be great.
(Tell him what you want to do - don't enroll and then drop). He may become
one of your best
local sources of information AND materials!
Acetylene is an UNSTABLE compound when pressurized to >=15psi. It can
DETONATE due mechanical
schock, temperature change or whatever. Very few people know this but it is
stabilized by acetone
and diatametious earth in the tank. I hold my ears and cringe when I see
someone using tanks
laying on their side! Why should you have a check valve on each line? What
knob do you turn off
FIRST when shutting down the torch? Why? Why do you only crack the
Acetylene TANK a 1/4 - 1/2
turn but the O2 full open? I not giving answers here because you need good
instruction and this
is not the correct forum. If you miss only one of the above - it could be
fatal.
It is a wonderful tool to use and enjoy - but (just like your airplane) get
proper instruction.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- Heat Muffs |
[1]Re: RV-List: Heat Muffs 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 2:31 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Chet,
Thats Robbins wing.
Rick Robbins heat muffs and carb heat muffs, He is out of town this week but
will be home on saturday. (303)-422-9389
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Questions from a first time prospective |
>Don't worry about being stumped, that's what this list is all about!
Dave, I've seen similar statements made earlier about support on
your project; but, let me say that you also have access to the source.
Van's has e-mail and has been very good about answering my
questions via e-mail. For me, it's been a big savings in long distance
calls and is a lot more convenient for me, and maybe for Van's. Even
though our RV-list buddies are good most of the time, I feel a little
better asking the source about some things. After all, most of us on
the list are still asking questions instead of giving answers. I've seen
good and bad answers from the list. I gather and sort out the bad
from the good. When I get a note from Van's, there is generally no
sorting needed. No flame is intended at the RV-list. I'm just making
an opinion on my observations as a lurker. I know the RV-list gang is
more than willing to help in any way possible to get you through your
project. I just wanted to make sure you know that Van's product
support is very good and should be your first option, at times.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
AA5A Cheetah N26276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Questions from a first time |
prospective builder
z>
>Yes. I knew what I was getting into. For me, this is a 5 year project.
>I'm ramping up production for a first flight on May 28, 2001. We shall see!
Morning or afternoon? ;-)
Frank (11 months into a planned 18 month project, with about 3 years to go)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> RE: RV6 tip-up roll bar assembly.
>
> Is the seam on the assembly visible on the finished aircraft or is it
> covered up by part of the canopy assembly?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
If you are referring to the construction seam on the roll bar assembly
(where the two halves meet and the splice plate is underneath), it is
visible when the canopy is open. When the canopy is closed the seam is
hidden by a fiberglass piece that is constructed to dress up the place
where the canopy was cut
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Robert G. Miller, Jr. wrote:
>
>
> At Sun n' Fun I saw a -4 with a three blade fixed prop. Someone told
> me it was painted wood. Does anyony know anything about this prop or
> possibly know the owner. The plane in question was white with two
> shades of blue trim and had the the name "Dawn" painted on it. I was
> also told that Dawn was oriental.
>
> Robert Miller
Clark Lydic of Performance Propellors makes three bladed wood props.
He's a good person to do business with.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- RV-8 Questi |
[1]Re: RV-List: RV-8 Questions from a_ 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
>Don't worry about being stumped, that's what this list is all about!
Dave, I've seen similar statements made earlier about support on
your project; but, let me say that you also have access to the source.
Van's has e-mail and has been very good about answering my
questions via e-mail. For me, it's been a big savings in long distance
calls and is a lot more convenient for me, and maybe for Van's. Even
though our RV-list buddies are good most of the time, I feel a little
better asking the source about some things. After all, most of us on
the list are still asking questions instead of giving answers. I've seen
good and bad answers from the list. I gather and sort out the bad
from the good. When I get a note from Van's, there is generally no
sorting needed. No flame is intended at the RV-list. I'm just making
an opinion on my observations as a lurker. I know the RV-list gang is
more than willing to help in any way possible to get you through your
project. I just wanted to make sure you know that Van's product
support is very good and should be your first option, at times.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
AA5A Cheetah N26276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Seat height on RV-6 |
Gary,
Becki and I have had Two RV-6A and have found that the standard seat
backs are just fine. If you need more room to get into the baggage bin youcan
just tilt the seat back forward. Before you cut the seat back down you amy
want to sit in the seat and see where the cut line would hit you in the back
and see if if is in a spot where it would be uncomfortable.......George
Onrdorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- |
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- Heat Muffs 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: Heat Muffs 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 2:31 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Chet,
Thats Robbins wing.
Rick Robbins heat muffs and carb heat muffs, He is out of town this week but
will be home on saturday. (303)-422-9389
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Chatter- Re- RV-List- RV |
[1]Chatter: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Questions_ 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
>Yes. I knew what I was getting into. For me, this is a 5 year project.
>I'm ramping up production for a first flight on May 28, 2001. We shall see!
Morning or afternoon? ;-)
Frank (11 months into a planned 18 month project, with about 3 years to go)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- RV6,Tip-up |
[1]Re: RV-List: RV6,Tip-up 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 7:09 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> RE: RV6 tip-up roll bar assembly.
>
> Is the seam on the assembly visible on the finished aircraft or is it
> covered up by part of the canopy assembly?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
If you are referring to the construction seam on the roll bar assembly
(where the two halves meet and the splice plate is underneath), it is
visible when the canopy is open. When the canopy is closed the seam is
hidden by a fiberglass piece that is constructed to dress up the place
where the canopy was cut
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- |
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- Cost of Wel 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: Cost of Welding Gear 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 2:39 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Richard Chandler wrote:
(snip) Having never dealt with welding supply companies before, can anyone
tell me what this
stuff costs and what's the best way to get into this?
------------------------
Make sure the O2 bottle quantity is larger than the size of the gas. If you
do a lot of burning
(which uses even more O2) a larger size is very important. Otherwize you
will be running out of
O2 all of the time. Most supply houses will sell you used bottles which are
fine if the "hydro
test date" is current. It is good for 7 years. No one will fill a bottle
with the test out of
date. It is stamped on the top of the bottle with number stamps. Be sure to
keep your receipts
FOREVER. Due to many stolen bottles, many suppliers will not refill without
PROOF OF OWNERSHIP.
For home use you want no less than 75 cu ft for acetylene and at least 115
-120 cu ft for O2
(even larger is better). I don't know current costs - I have had my tanks
for 30 years.
If you have never used a torch before -- PLEASE get GOOD SAFETY INSTRUCTION.
You would be
suprised at some of wrong sterotypes and mis-information that is spread. If
you could sit in on
a night school class for a week or two (when the instructor is covering
safety) would be great.
(Tell him what you want to do - don't enroll and then drop). He may become
one of your best
local sources of information AND materials!
Acetylene is an UNSTABLE compound when pressurized to >=15psi. It can
DETONATE due mechanical
schock, temperature change or whatever. Very few people know this but it is
stabilized by acetone
and diatametious earth in the tank. I hold my ears and cringe when I see
someone using tanks
laying on their side! Why should you have a check valve on each line? What
knob do you turn off
FIRST when shutting down the torch? Why? Why do you only crack the
Acetylene TANK a 1/4 - 1/2
turn but the O2 full open? I not giving answers here because you need good
instruction and this
is not the correct forum. If you miss only one of the above - it could be
fatal.
It is a wonderful tool to use and enjoy - but (just like your airplane) get
proper instruction.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- propellers |
[1]Re: RV-List: propellers 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 7:09 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Robert G. Miller, Jr. wrote:
>
>
> At Sun n' Fun I saw a -4 with a three blade fixed prop. Someone told
> me it was painted wood. Does anyony know anything about this prop or
> possibly know the owner. The plane in question was white with two
> shades of blue trim and had the the name "Dawn" painted on it. I was
> also told that Dawn was oriental.
>
> Robert Miller
Clark Lydic of Performance Propellors makes three bladed wood props.
He's a good person to do business with.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Glenn,
The inner seam on the roll bar is parcially visable when the canopy is
open.
The amount of inner seam visable is a function of where you attached the
rear
plexi, and how much, and what type of sealant you used in this area.
On my -6A tiltup, I attached my rear plexi such that it's forward edge
was just
over the forward edge of the rear portion of the roll bar. The recess
down to the
inner seam was used to hold a foam gasket.
Since there is always the potential for water to get into this area, I
used proseal
between the forward/rear roll bar elements and the inner seam. To date I
haven't
seen any water leaks in this area.
Hope this helps.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>RE: RV6 tip-up roll bar assembly.
>
>Is the seam on the assembly visible on the finished aircraft or is it
>covered up by part of the canopy assembly?
>
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]Chatter- Re- |
[1]RV-List: [1]Chatter- Re- RV-List- RV 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:02 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Chatter: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Questions_ 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
>Yes. I knew what I was getting into. For me, this is a 5 year project.
>I'm ramping up production for a first flight on May 28, 2001. We shall see!
Morning or afternoon? ;-)
Frank (11 months into a planned 18 month project, with about 3 years to go)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] |
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:02 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- Heat Muffs 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: Heat Muffs 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 2:31 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Chet,
Thats Robbins wing.
Rick Robbins heat muffs and carb heat muffs, He is out of town this week but
will be home on saturday. (303)-422-9389
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List-Seat height |
[1]Re: RV-List:Seat height on RV-6 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:01 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Gary,
Becki and I have had Two RV-6A and have found that the standard seat
backs are just fine. If you need more room to get into the baggage bin
youcan
just tilt the seat back forward. Before you cut the seat back down you amy
want to sit in the seat and see where the cut line would hit you in the back
and see if if is in a spot where it would be uncomfortable.......George
Onrdorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- |
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- propellers 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:03 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: propellers 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 7:09 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Robert G. Miller, Jr. wrote:
>
>
> At Sun n' Fun I saw a -4 with a three blade fixed prop. Someone told
> me it was painted wood. Does anyony know anything about this prop or
> possibly know the owner. The plane in question was white with two
> shades of blue trim and had the the name "Dawn" painted on it. I was
> also told that Dawn was oriental.
>
> Robert Miller
Clark Lydic of Performance Propellors makes three bladed wood props.
He's a good person to do business with.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- |
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- RV-8 Questi 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 8:44 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: RV-8 Questions from a_ 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
>Don't worry about being stumped, that's what this list is all about!
Dave, I've seen similar statements made earlier about support on
your project; but, let me say that you also have access to the source.
Van's has e-mail and has been very good about answering my
questions via e-mail. For me, it's been a big savings in long distance
calls and is a lot more convenient for me, and maybe for Van's. Even
though our RV-list buddies are good most of the time, I feel a little
better asking the source about some things. After all, most of us on
the list are still asking questions instead of giving answers. I've seen
good and bad answers from the list. I gather and sort out the bad
from the good. When I get a note from Van's, there is generally no
sorting needed. No flame is intended at the RV-list. I'm just making
an opinion on my observations as a lurker. I know the RV-list gang is
more than willing to help in any way possible to get you through your
project. I just wanted to make sure you know that Van's product
support is very good and should be your first option, at times.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
AA5A Cheetah N26276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- |
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- RV6,Tip-up 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:03 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: RV6,Tip-up 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 7:09 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> RE: RV6 tip-up roll bar assembly.
>
> Is the seam on the assembly visible on the finished aircraft or is it
> covered up by part of the canopy assembly?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
If you are referring to the construction seam on the roll bar assembly
(where the two halves meet and the splice plate is underneath), it is
visible when the canopy is open. When the canopy is closed the seam is
hidden by a fiberglass piece that is constructed to dress up the place
where the canopy was cut
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
=20
If you are referring to the construction seam on the roll bar assembly=20
(where the two halves meet and the splice plate is underneath), it is=20
visible when the canopy is open. When the canopy is closed the seam is=20
hidden by a fiberglass piece that is constructed to dress up the place=20
where the canopy was cut=20
=20
=20
Hmmm, no fibreglass strip on my 'plane. Instead I painted a stripe=20
along the width of the canopy separation point that hides the fact that=20
there is a break there.=20
=20
In fact, most 6's I've seen don't have the fiberglass strip.=20
=20
Ken=20
Rv6A C-FGIZ Flying=20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Williams <terry.williams(at)tela.com> |
I was recently in Maui and took a Helicopter ride around the =
island. We were given a very nice Bose headset to wear during the =
flight. The pilot had a DAT (Digital Audio Tape) connected into =
the ICS and it sounded fantastic. We were up for an hour and the =
Bose were very, very comfortable. These particular headsets may =
have ANR as well, but I don't know. I am sure they aren't cheap. =
The flight sure wasn't. But, hell, you only live once.
tw
Begin forwarded message:
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 20:43:57 +1200
From: chester razer <egyptian.net!crazer(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Headsets
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: chester razer =
I started shopping for headsets recently and of the few I tried =
none
seemed to be capable of reproducing genuine High Fidelity. I =
simply
listened to a CD played through a portable CD player. I suspect =
that
most aviation headsets are only designed to reproduce sounds =
within a
narrow frequency range.
Could anyone recommend a set that reproduces music well and also =
is
suitable for aviation use. =20
--=20
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] |
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:03 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- Cost of Wel 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: Cost of Welding Gear 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 2:39 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Richard Chandler wrote:
(snip) Having never dealt with welding supply companies before, can anyone
tell me what this
stuff costs and what's the best way to get into this?
------------------------
Make sure the O2 bottle quantity is larger than the size of the gas. If you
do a lot of burning
(which uses even more O2) a larger size is very important. Otherwize you
will be running out of
O2 all of the time. Most supply houses will sell you used bottles which are
fine if the "hydro
test date" is current. It is good for 7 years. No one will fill a bottle
with the test out of
date. It is stamped on the top of the bottle with number stamps. Be sure to
keep your receipts
FOREVER. Due to many stolen bottles, many suppliers will not refill without
PROOF OF OWNERSHIP.
For home use you want no less than 75 cu ft for acetylene and at least 115
-120 cu ft for O2
(even larger is better). I don't know current costs - I have had my tanks
for 30 years.
If you have never used a torch before -- PLEASE get GOOD SAFETY INSTRUCTION.
You would be
suprised at some of wrong sterotypes and mis-information that is spread. If
you could sit in on
a night school class for a week or two (when the instructor is covering
safety) would be great.
(Tell him what you want to do - don't enroll and then drop). He may become
one of your best
local sources of information AND materials!
Acetylene is an UNSTABLE compound when pressurized to >=15psi. It can
DETONATE due mechanical
schock, temperature change or whatever. Very few people know this but it is
stabilized by acetone
and diatametious earth in the tank. I hold my ears and cringe when I see
someone using tanks
laying on their side! Why should you have a check valve on each line? What
knob do you turn off
FIRST when shutting down the torch? Why? Why do you only crack the
Acetylene TANK a 1/4 - 1/2
turn but the O2 full open? I not giving answers here because you need good
instruction and this
is not the correct forum. If you miss only one of the above - it could be
fatal.
It is a wonderful tool to use and enjoy - but (just like your airplane) get
proper instruction.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAllen6526(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Will it REALLY work ????? |
There is no reason why the GPS 2000, 3000, 4000 won't work in an airplane. I
think the Wal-Mart price is $150 or lower. There is no discernable
difference in accuracy between any of the handheld receivers, ours or theirs,
no matter what the price point.
But. . .there is no database in the 2,3,4000 units; no airport frequncies, no
runway lengths, no direct to, no nearest airport search, no winds aloft, no
moving map, no resricted airspace.
You can create your own waypoints very easily using your current position or
information from a pilots guide and then use these waypoint to navigate quite
effectively. If you only fly to a few places and you can mount it with a
good view of the sky, or if your wife has taken over the checkbook and put
your flying on a budget, why not.
However, if you fly to a lot of different places, or use a variety of Navaids
(vor's,ndb's), or want the security of always knowing where the nearest
airports are, then the best you can do is about $399 for a receiver with a
complete database.
John "Losing the fight with the sliding canopy" Allen
Magellan Systems
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- RV6,Tip-up |
[1]Re: RV-List: RV6,Tip-up 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:50 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Glenn,
The inner seam on the roll bar is parcially visable when the canopy is
open.
The amount of inner seam visable is a function of where you attached the
rear
plexi, and how much, and what type of sealant you used in this area.
On my -6A tiltup, I attached my rear plexi such that it's forward edge
was just
over the forward edge of the rear portion of the roll bar. The recess
down to the
inner seam was used to hold a foam gasket.
Since there is always the potential for water to get into this area, I
used proseal
between the forward/rear roll bar elements and the inner seam. To date I
haven't
seen any water leaks in this area.
Hope this helps.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>RE: RV6 tip-up roll bar assembly.
>
>Is the seam on the assembly visible on the finished aircraft or is it
>covered up by part of the canopy assembly?
>
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Welding Gear |
<< I not giving answers here because you need good instruction and this
is not the correct forum. If you miss only one of the above - it could be
fatal.
>>
I like the one of "where do you stand when you open the valves?" The answer
is not looking at the pressure dial. The instructur will elaborate.
gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] |
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]Chatter- Re- 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 10:56 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]Chatter- Re- RV-List- RV 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:02 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Chatter: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Questions_ 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
>Yes. I knew what I was getting into. For me, this is a 5 year project.
>I'm ramping up production for a first flight on May 28, 2001. We shall see!
Morning or afternoon? ;-)
Frank (11 months into a planned 18 month project, with about 3 years to go)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
| Subject: | Acid resistant Spray bottles |
I want to pick up some spray bottles to spray Alumiprep. What is the type=
of plastic that is resistant to acid ? Does it have any markings that wou=
ld identify the type of plastic? I want to swing by Home Depot and try a f=
ew. Also, I may try to pick up some plastic containers big enough for a wi=
ng rib of the same material. =20
thanks in advance
John ( who's crummy old 2hp C-H compressor is still perfectly adequate)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] |
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 11:04 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:02 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- Heat Muffs 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: Heat Muffs 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 2:31 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Chet,
Thats Robbins wing.
Rick Robbins heat muffs and carb heat muffs, He is out of town this week but
will be home on saturday. (303)-422-9389
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] |
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 11:05 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- RV6,Tip-up 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:03 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: RV6,Tip-up 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 7:09 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> RE: RV6 tip-up roll bar assembly.
>
> Is the seam on the assembly visible on the finished aircraft or is it
> covered up by part of the canopy assembly?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
If you are referring to the construction seam on the roll bar assembly
(where the two halves meet and the splice plate is underneath), it is
visible when the canopy is open. When the canopy is closed the seam is
hidden by a fiberglass piece that is constructed to dress up the place
where the canopy was cut
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] |
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 11:05 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- RV-8 Questi 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 8:44 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: RV-8 Questions from a_ 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
>Don't worry about being stumped, that's what this list is all about!
Dave, I've seen similar statements made earlier about support on
your project; but, let me say that you also have access to the source.
Van's has e-mail and has been very good about answering my
questions via e-mail. For me, it's been a big savings in long distance
calls and is a lot more convenient for me, and maybe for Van's. Even
though our RV-list buddies are good most of the time, I feel a little
better asking the source about some things. After all, most of us on
the list are still asking questions instead of giving answers. I've seen
good and bad answers from the list. I gather and sort out the bad
from the good. When I get a note from Van's, there is generally no
sorting needed. No flame is intended at the RV-list. I'm just making
an opinion on my observations as a lurker. I know the RV-list gang is
more than willing to help in any way possible to get you through your
project. I just wanted to make sure you know that Van's product
support is very good and should be your first option, at times.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
AA5A Cheetah N26276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- RV6,Tip-up |
[1]Re: RV-List: RV6,Tip-up 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 11:16 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
=20
If you are referring to the construction seam on the roll bar assembly=20
(where the two halves meet and the splice plate is underneath), it is=20
visible when the canopy is open. When the canopy is closed the seam is=20
hidden by a fiberglass piece that is constructed to dress up the place=20
where the canopy was cut=20
=20
=20
Hmmm, no fibreglass strip on my 'plane. Instead I painted a stripe=20
along the width of the canopy separation point that hides the fact that=20
there is a break there.=20
=20
In fact, most 6's I've seen don't have the fiberglass strip.=20
=20
Ken=20
Rv6A C-FGIZ Flying=20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] |
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 11:41 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:03 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- Cost of Wel 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 6:49 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: Cost of Welding Gear 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 2:39 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Richard Chandler wrote:
(snip) Having never dealt with welding supply companies before, can anyone
tell me what this
stuff costs and what's the best way to get into this?
------------------------
Make sure the O2 bottle quantity is larger than the size of the gas. If you
do a lot of burning
(which uses even more O2) a larger size is very important. Otherwize you
will be running out of
O2 all of the time. Most supply houses will sell you used bottles which are
fine if the "hydro
test date" is current. It is good for 7 years. No one will fill a bottle
with the test out of
date. It is stamped on the top of the bottle with number stamps. Be sure to
keep your receipts
FOREVER. Due to many stolen bottles, many suppliers will not refill without
PROOF OF OWNERSHIP.
For home use you want no less than 75 cu ft for acetylene and at least 115
-120 cu ft for O2
(even larger is better). I don't know current costs - I have had my tanks
for 30 years.
If you have never used a torch before -- PLEASE get GOOD SAFETY INSTRUCTION.
You would be
suprised at some of wrong sterotypes and mis-information that is spread. If
you could sit in on
a night school class for a week or two (when the instructor is covering
safety) would be great.
(Tell him what you want to do - don't enroll and then drop). He may become
one of your best
local sources of information AND materials!
Acetylene is an UNSTABLE compound when pressurized to >=15psi. It can
DETONATE due mechanical
schock, temperature change or whatever. Very few people know this but it is
stabilized by acetone
and diatametious earth in the tank. I hold my ears and cringe when I see
someone using tanks
laying on their side! Why should you have a check valve on each line? What
knob do you turn off
FIRST when shutting down the torch? Why? Why do you only crack the
Acetylene TANK a 1/4 - 1/2
turn but the O2 full open? I not giving answers here because you need good
instruction and this
is not the correct forum. If you miss only one of the above - it could be
fatal.
It is a wonderful tool to use and enjoy - but (just like your airplane) get
proper instruction.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]RV-List- [1]RV-List- [1] |
[1]RV-List: [1]RV-List- [1]Re- RV-List- 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 11:04 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]RV-List: [1]Re- RV-List- propellers 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 9:03 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
[1]Re: RV-List: propellers 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 7:09 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
Robert G. Miller, Jr. wrote:
>
>
> At Sun n' Fun I saw a -4 with a three blade fixed prop. Someone told
> me it was painted wood. Does anyony know anything about this prop or
> possibly know the owner. The plane in question was white with two
> shades of blue trim and had the the name "Dawn" painted on it. I was
> also told that Dawn was oriental.
>
> Robert Miller
Clark Lydic of Performance Propellors makes three bladed wood props.
He's a good person to do business with.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- Will it REA |
[1]Re: RV-List: Will it REALLY work ????? 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 11:25 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
There is no reason why the GPS 2000, 3000, 4000 won't work in an airplane.
I
think the Wal-Mart price is $150 or lower. There is no discernable
difference in accuracy between any of the handheld receivers, ours or theirs,
no matter what the price point.
But. . .there is no database in the 2,3,4000 units; no airport frequncies,
no
runway lengths, no direct to, no nearest airport search, no winds aloft, no
moving map, no resricted airspace.
You can create your own waypoints very easily using your current position or
information from a pilots guide and then use these waypoint to navigate
quite
effectively. If you only fly to a few places and you can mount it with a
good view of the sky, or if your wife has taken over the checkbook and put
your flying on a budget, why not.
However, if you fly to a lot of different places, or use a variety of
Navaids
(vor's,ndb's), or want the security of always knowing where the nearest
airports are, then the best you can do is about $399 for a receiver with a
complete database.
John "Losing the fight with the sliding canopy" Allen
Magellan Systems
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com> |
| Subject: | [1]Re- RV-List- Headsets |
[1]Re: RV-List: Headsets 4/18/97
Bob Bolander will be out of the plant until Monday April 28. Jim Menzies
will be acting for him while he is out.
--------------------------------------
Date: 4/18/97 11:25 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@INTERNET
I was recently in Maui and took a Helicopter ride around the =
island. We were given a very nice Bose headset to wear during the =
flight. The pilot had a DAT (Digital Audio Tape) connected into =
the ICS and it sounded fantastic. We were up for an hour and the =
Bose were very, very comfortable. These particular headsets may =
have ANR as well, but I don't know. I am sure they aren't cheap. =
The flight sure wasn't. But, hell, you only live once.
tw
Begin forwarded message:
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 20:43:57 +1200
From: chester razer <egyptian.net!crazer(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Headsets
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: chester razer =
I started shopping for headsets recently and of the few I tried =
none
seemed to be capable of reproducing genuine High Fidelity. I =
simply
listened to a CD played through a portable CD player. I suspect =
that
most aviation headsets are only designed to reproduce sounds =
within a
narrow frequency range.
Could anyone recommend a set that reproduces music well and also =
is
suitable for aviation use. =20
--=20
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KOZINSKI GARY <kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Will it REALLY work ????? |
John,
Don't some of the non-aviation GPS's have an upper limit on their speed?
I saw this once on I believe it was a Model 45 or similar that only went
up to 99 knots. THe factory told me the use a different CPU. That was
about 2 years ago, Maybe they all have changed since.
Gary, 10+ years and still riviting!
RV-6 20038
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Bob Bolander Disabled! |
I caught the mail loop caused by "Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.mot.com" this
morning and have removed him from the list and put a filter in place for future
attacks of a similar nature!
FYI.
Matt Dralle
Matronics
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear spar attach |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>I have asked about incidence problems when was have fuselage F605
>location
>problems and was told by Tom Green that I wanted to get the right
>angel on
>the F605 or I would be "in a world of hurt". He did mention that some
>adjustment can be made to the Horizonal Stablizer to correct for
>earlier boo
>boo's. He pointed out that it is in the manual somewhere. I measured
>forty
>times, and I hope it was forty of the same mistakes. We'll see, the
For what it's worth, I measured the F605 top and bottom about a million
times during construction to verify it wasn't shifting. Through some
combination of luck and planning, it stayed put. When it came time to
fit the wings they not only fit, but when the incidence was dialed in the
rear spar was EXACTLY in the center of the fork in the bulkhead.
Apparently, the measurements work. Although I have a feeling my
construction was far from perfect and it just happened that all of my
mistakes canceled each other out.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> I do use the Bose with the Flightcom, which is a stereo unit and it
>works OK (but it doesn't sound as good as my living room set-up.) The
>cassette player used with the Telex ANR4000 did not work as well. It
may be
>the Flightcom intercom or maybe I did something wrong when I hooked it
up.
>Possibly the cassette player
Does anyone have problems with a cassette player due to vibration? I
have a middle-of-the-road JVC deck in my 6A, and after a very short time
in service (about 20 of aircraft time, maybe 2 hours of tape use) it ate
one of my tapes. Thinking something must be out of alignment in the
drive mechanism I exchanged it for another one. The same thing happened
after about the same amount of time. I finally figured out by looking at
the tape that the vibration in the panel was causing the tape to vibrate
out of alignment from the case. This particular tape had started working
its way between the case and the drive wheel. Apparently leaving the
tape in the deck (even when not engaged in the player) over a period of
time was causing the problems.
I now do not leave a tape in unless it's actually playing and have had no
further problems. Has anyone else had any problems? Do vibration
problems cause trouble with CD players?
On a side note, I'm using Flightcom Eclipse headsets with a Flightcom
stereo intercom. The sound is good, but not as good as I had hoped. The
intercom needs speaker outputs from the stereo to have a common ground (I
thought only cheap low-end stereos had this) or if separate grounds are
required, the inputs have to go through transformers. Wouldn't this
degrade the sound to an extent?
Any input appreciated,
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
I for one will be glad when April 28th rolls around so that Bob Bolander's
auto reply will be turned off.
Ray and Nancy Murphy
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV6A empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott.fink(at)Microchip.COM (Scott Fink) |
Terry Williams
Next time you are in Maui lookup Airwave Aviation and rent a 172 and
fly around the islands yourself! I did on my honeymoon last summer
and it was one of the best flights I ever had (other than the RV6 demo
flight, of course).
Scott Fink
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Headsets
Internet_Exchange
Date: 4/18/97 9:37 AM
~ RV-List message posted by: Terry Williams
I was recently in Maui and took a Helicopter ride around the island. We were
given a very nice Bose headset to wear during the flight. The pilot had a DAT
(Digital Audio Tape) connected into the ICS and it sounded fantastic. We were up
for an hour and the Bose were very, very comfortable. These particular headsets
may have ANR as well, but I don't know. I am sure they aren't cheap. The flight
sure wasn't. But, hell, you only live once.
tw
Begin forwarded message:
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 20:43:57 +1200
From: chester razer <egyptian.net!crazer(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Headsets
I started shopping for headsets recently and of the few I tried none
seemed to be capable of reproducing genuine High Fidelity. I simply
listened to a CD played through a portable CD player. I suspect that
most aviation headsets are only designed to reproduce sounds within a
narrow frequency range.
Could anyone recommend a set that reproduces music well and also is
suitable for aviation use.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
Autoreply:
Mitch Faatz will be out of the office until Monday April 21. Please
send all
questions to Bob Bolander.
>----------
>From: Ray Murphy, Jr.[SMTP:mail.coos.or.us!murphy(at)matronics.com]
>Sent: Friday, April 18, 1997 12:08 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Bob Bolander
>
>
>I for one will be glad when April 28th rolls around so that Bob Bolander's
>auto reply will be turned off.
>
>
>
>Ray and Nancy Murphy
>murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
>RV6A empenage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
Ed Bundy wrote:
>
> Does anyone have problems with a cassette player due to vibration?
> I finally figured out by looking at
> the tape that the vibration in the panel was causing the tape to vibrate
> out of alignment from the case.
No experience with aircraft, but I've had this happen in autos.
Especially since moving to the wonderful 'MidWest' (Central, on my map)
where the roads resemble a teenager's face. It was never like this in
California :) I found that simply turning over the tape from time to
time helps. I would expect a vertical, rather than horizontal,
installation would also help.
> Do vibration
> problems cause trouble with CD players?
Do they ever! Just the slightest bump can skip a CD. However, I flew a
C-152 across the Sierras to Las Vegas and took a personal CD with
anti-skip feature hooked into the intercom. Turbulence was rated
'moderate', and I needed to loosely wad a sweatshirt in the right seat
and lay the player on it to keep it from skipping. I don't know if
there are in-panel CD players capable of handling that kind of abuse.
PatK - RV-6A - BTW, no offence to the mid-Westerners; CA has its quirks,
too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikeb(at)lsil.com (Mike Brogley) |
| Subject: | Re: Bob Bolander |
>
> I for one will be glad when April 28th rolls around so that Bob Bolander's
> auto reply will be turned off.
>
>
>
> Ray and Nancy Murphy
> murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
> RV6A empenage
I, for one, want to know how he got those six days off to work on his plane.
When he gets back, we should ask him.
(That's the only thing he could be doing, right?)
--
Mike Brogley
RV-8 sn80241
San Jose, CA USA
mikeb(at)lsil.com
mbrogley(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Bob Bolander Disabled! |
Thanks Matt!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Acid resistant Spray bottles |
--=_ORCL_18063985_0_11919704181832130
John,
I used some 1 quart graduated trigger spray bottles from the lawn & garden section
of
walmart. They have yellow trigger heads and green markings on them. I think I
paid about $2
each. They have had alumiprep and alodyne in them for 8 months and the bottoms
still
haven't rotted out.
******************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation *
* Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center *
* Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700 *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002 *
******************************************************************************
RV-6A (Wings)
--=_ORCL_18063985_0_11919704181832130
Date: 18 Apr 97 12:35:01
From:"John Walsh "
Subject:RV-List: Acid resistant Spray bottles
> RV-List message posted by: John Walsh
I want to pick up some spray bottles to spray Alumiprep. What is the type of
plastic that is
resistant to acid ? Does it have any markings that would identify the type of
plastic? I
want to swing by Home Depot and try a few. Also, I may try to pick up some plastic
containers
big enough for a wing rib of the same material.
thanks in advance
John ( who's crummy old 2hp C-H compressor is still perfectly adequate)
--=_ORCL_18063985_0_11919704181832130--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
----------
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 1997 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-9
This will be a three-place stretched version of the RV-6 airframe using the
RV-8 wing technology and leaf main gear in either tricycle or conventional
form. The engine mount will be extended forward and will utilize the Franklin
220 hp engine resulting in a useful cg. Extending the mount forward will
allow for a forward baggage compartment to offset the lost space taken up by
the third seat, when utilized. The increased fuel capacity of the RV-8 wing
tanks will give it an acceptable range. The gross weight will be increased
accordingly. JMHO, but I would be happy to accept deposits to pass along for
a proof of concept design and a production line slot!
Les Williams/RV-6AQBME/N24LW (reserved)/Tacoma WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hombilt(at)juno.com (Marvin E. Morrison) |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Questions from a first time prospective |
WHAT IS VAN EMALE LIST NAME.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EPOXY & MICRO GLASS |
GEORGE ORNDORFF CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE OR WHAT PAGE TO FIND EPOXY AND
MICRO GLASS LIKE YOU USED ON YOUR EMPENNAGE ENDS CAPS IN AIRCRAFT SPRUCE
BOOK. HELP NEVER USED THIS STUFF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RFierb6707(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Metal Preparation |
What sort of metal preparation is necessary before priming? How does one get
the "goo" off of the steel parts? I have pretty much decided on variprime.
Thanks Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Acid resistant bottles/containers |
<< I want to pick up some spray bottles to spray Alumiprep. What is the
type of plastic that is resistant to acid ? Does it have any markings that
would identify the type of plastic? >>
John-
HDPE (high density polyethylene, recycling symbol with number 2 in it),
LDPE (low density polyethylene, recycling symbol with number 4 in it) or
PP (polypropylene, recycling symbol with number 5 in it) will work fine.
Of the above, PP is best. They make wet cell battery cases out of it.
For the record, alumiprep (phosphoric acid) and alodine (chromate conversion
coating) are not very strong acids (comparatively speaking) as they are
packaged and used for our purposes.
Rubbermaid has some good PE items with lids for sale at the local hardware
store. Any of these would be quite suitable.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Preparation |
;Rob wrote,
> > What sort of metal preparation is necessary before priming? How does one get
> the "goo" off of the steel parts? I have pretty much decided on variprime.
Rob,
A product called Prepsol is generally used for cleaning metal surfaces
prior to painting. It's available at your local auto paint supply store.
One of my personal favorite products for removing any type of paper with
adhesives (like masking tape) is called Goo Gone. This stuff will remove
even old baked on stuff. It smells good and is easy on your skin. You'll
find it at K-Mart back where they have the floor polishes. It's also
available at Home Depot back with the spray paints. Make sure you get
Goo Gone and not it's competitor Goof Off. Goof Off does not work very
well and is hydro carbon based stuff. Nasty! Goo Gone is safe to use on
Plexiglass & clear plastics.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
> Next time you are in Maui lookup Airwave Aviation and rent a 172 and
> fly around the islands yourself! I did on my honeymoon last summer
> and it was one of the best flights I ever had (other than the RV6 demo
> flight, of course).
>
> Scott Fink
>
not to mention a whole lot cheaper! :=)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lost Subscribers |
Ken Crabtree and James Clark, where are you? I need a current address so
that you can get the newsletters that you have subscribed to. Apologies to
the RV list, but this is the only way I have to find them.
Jim Cone, Editor
Van''s Air Force, Tri-State Wing Newsletter
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)hcds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Acid resistant Spray bottles + compressors |
John Walsh wrote:
> John ( who's crummy old 2hp C-H compressor is still perfectly adequate)
I also have a crummy old 2hp C-H comp. that is about 17 years old. It
has painted at least 7 cars and spun off many a lug nut. What I dreamed
for was an upright 60 gal 2-stage; so I bought one when I started my RV.
One thing I noticed right away when I bought the biggy, was that my
electric bill went up by about 20 bucks a month. But I never run out of
air. If I am just going to do a little riviting I fire up the 2 hp, and
for bigger jobs (ie. grinding, huge bolt removal, etc...) I fire up the
biggy. For most of my RV work I find that the little old C-H works just
great and is real quite since I have it in my shop. The Biggy is located
in my detatched garage so noise is no problem there either. BTW, the C-H
is 110 or 220v and I run it on the latter.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993 "building the fuse jig"
PS. My 18 mo project will prob run 3 yrs. Can't wait.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
ED,
I experienced the same problem you did! I to started out with a JVC tape
deck. It seemed to work fine for a couple hundred hours then it began eating
tapes. I had talked to several people in the car stereo buisness about
installing a CD player initially, but most of them didnt think it was a good
idea. They told me that it would skip on climb out and steep descent. After
my problems with the tape player I decided to give the CD player a chance. I
figured if it didnt work out I would install it in my truck later( my wife
and I have alot of CD's). I bought a nice Alpine CD player . Ive been using
it for at least 150 hrs with never so much as a skip. Ive landed on grass
strips, dirt strips, flown through rough air and so far it hasnt missed a
beat. The other benefit was, this unit had an output for a preamp, the output
is so low I was able to use these cables and eliminate the step down
resistors I had to use with my old system. I really enjoy my music when I fly
and I think the CD set up is the best way to go.
Ryan B (MR. HEADBANGER)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sylvan Adamson <sadamson(at)cyberhighway.net> |
I have a question for all you profesional stickey finger users of proseal.
Not having started the RV project yet I havn't had the pleasure of using the
stuff. I have a fiberglass fuel tank that at the location where the 1/4 inch
fuel drain screws in, the schmuck who taped it ran the tap in a little to
far. The threds are fine, but the drain can be screwed in all the way by
hand, becoming tight just as it bottoms out. I could just epoxy it in with
3M 2216, but getting it out in the future would be questionable. Would
proseal work on this and still let me replace the drain in the future if
needed? Thanks Sylvan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>I have a question for all you profesional stickey finger users of proseal.
>Not having started the RV project yet I havn't had the pleasure of using the
>stuff. I have a fiberglass fuel tank that at the location where the 1/4 inch
>fuel drain screws in, the schmuck who taped it ran the tap in a little to
>far. The threds are fine, but the drain can be screwed in all the way by
>hand, becoming tight just as it bottoms out. I could just epoxy it in with
>3M 2216, but getting it out in the future would be questionable. Would
>proseal work on this and still let me replace the drain in the future if
>needed? Thanks Sylvan
>
>
In my limited experience with ProSeal (two tanks) I would say it would not
he thing to use. The auto parts store would have something better suited,
I'm sure.
denny h.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun N Fun - RVs??? |
I attended Sun n Fun from the evening of April 5th and departng the morning
of April 13th.
At one time during the week I counted 75 RV's of various models registered
on the list posted at homebuilders headquarters.
The peak for Sun n Fun is definitely the first week-end, with a serious
reduction in aircraft by Wednsday & Thursday.
RVator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 1/4" holes in canopy? |
Listers,
The Feb 97 issue of RVator cited several instances of cracked canopys
(after construction) and cited the canopy maker's recommendation that
holes be drilled 1/8" oversize. That means the holes in the
canopy would have to be 1/4" diameter, which is larger than the head
of the pop rivets or the screws that are supposed to hold the canopy
to the slider frame.
I've experimented with making little .025 Aluminum covers (dimpled
#30 - sort of home made Tinnerman's) to put over the 1/4" holes
drilled in scrap plexi. It looks like it will work OK, and seems to
let the plexi move w.r.t. the frame. Has anybody else tried this
approach? Any better approaches?
The only other advice I've gleaned from the list on this topic is to
go with either 1/8" or 5/32" holes, which are significantly smaller
than the recommended 1/8" oversize.
Thanks,
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Epoxy & Micro Glass |
George Orndorff can you tell me where or what page to find epoxy and micro
glass like you used on your ruder end caps in aircraft spruce book.Need
help. RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Headsets/CD players |
<< I bought a nice Alpine CD player . Ive been using
it for at least 150 hrs with never so much as a skip. Ive landed on grass
strips, dirt strips, flown through rough air and so far it hasnt missed a >>
Ryan (aka: Mr Headbanger):
Which model Alpine did you buy?
I delivered a customer's Rocket after installing a Navaid wing-leveler (and
making the proper logbook entries), and he had a portable CD player (JVC, I
think) in his bird, with the Bose headsets. It sure sounded good, but the
only CD he had in the plane was the Top Gun soundtrack. Too bad. I had to
listen to that thing for an hour, with the airplane flying itself, except
when I spotted an enemy oil rig (which HAD to be blown up) !
I'm not the only one to do this (oil rigs, trains, etc), am I? ;-)
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I have a fiberglass fuel tank that at the location where the 1/4 inch
>fuel drain screws in, the schmuck who taped it ran the tap in a little to
>far. The threds are fine, but the drain can be screwed in all the way by
>hand, becoming tight just as it bottoms out. I could just epoxy it in with
>3M 2216, but getting it out in the future would be questionable. Would
>proseal work on this and still let me replace the drain in the future if
>needed? Thanks Sylvan >>
Why not pro-seal on a drain flange from an RV kit? Screw the drain into the
flange, just like on the RV tanks. A couple of sealed rivets would keep the
flange from twisting off.
Check six!
mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
I think proseal would be OK for this, but unless you have some lying
around it would be expensive for such a small amount. As an alternative
could you redrill and tap for a 3/8" drain valve, or drill and tap a
larger hole and epoxy in a reducer for your 1/4" valve?
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Canopy and other Yucky Fiberglass Jobs... |
Hello Listers!
Finally a message from me that isn't admin stuff! I've commited to finishing
my RV-4 this year - I hope - and maybe even make it to the Homecoming this
year! At any rate, I'm working on the canopy skirts now and they are looking
really good - much better than I expected for a 'first attempt'... :-)
So, somebody tell me that there is something better available to address the
need for the fiberglass front part? Has someone come up with a nice pre-molded
part that basically just needs to be rivited on? Or better yet, a really nice
pre-stretched aluminum part - that would be really nice. I'd pay a lot of
money for one of those!
Any thoughts or suggestions on the topic of this and fiberglass parts in
general would be most apperciated!
Thanks-
Matt Dralle
PS - It's great to be working on the -4 again!
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Acid resistant Spray bottles |
<<
I want to pick up some spray bottles to spray Alumiprep. What is the type
of plastic that is resistant to acid ? >>
John
The problem isn't with the bottles, they are all pretty much a polyethelene
and acid resistant. You need to rinse out the spray head or the chemicals
dry in there and plug up the works. Use an old 409 or bleach spray bottle.
Just rinse it out with water well. (well water--just rinse it good)
ps, I miss you Bob Bolander; Your name will live forever
Gene, first flight sceduled for June '96 and counting. still having fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Homecoming |
Can anyone tell me the dates for Van's Homecoming? This will be our
first year to visit, and I'm unfamiliar with the area - we'll probably
fly into Portland - any tips on lodging, camping, events, etc...
Information appreciated
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Testing Circuit Breakers |
/While at SnF last week, I got a good deal on a handful of "Klixon" circuit
/breakers. They are from salvage, but appear to be in good physical
/condition. I'm wondering I'm wondering if I should test them to make sure
/they're okay. Most are 5a, but I've also got a 10a and a 2a. The only test
/equipment I have is a budget Radio Shack multi-meter, and a 12 volt
/battery. What else do I need to be able to conduct a reasonable test? How
/do I go about hooking up a test circuit? I do have a "Micro-Monitor" which
/I haven't installed yet. It has an ammeter function which ranges from -9 to
/75. I suppose I could hook it up and use it for testing purposes. Any
/ideas?
Gee . . . if you REALLY gotta use those things . . . here's what you do.
Rig a setup to drive about three headlamps in parallel from your 12
volt battery. Try each of the breakers in series with the headlamps
to see if they trip. The small guys will trip sooner than the bigger
ones but the important part is that they DO trip. This is 99% of everything
you wanted to know about them. Then, I'd go ahead and use them in the airplane.
The probability of them DRIFTING in calibration by a significant amount
is very small.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Vitz <tvitz1(at)airmail.net> |
We can talk about building or we can bad mouth each other's profession,
or we can talk about ignorance. It sounds like Gary knows what's going on,
except for the part about "inclined to agree with Elon". If you just have to
tell us about your views on a profession, please let us know what you do for
a living, don't do, wanted to do, or tried to do but couldn't. Further,
when you need a lawyer, make sure you tell him how you feel about him before
you hire him.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | info (Matronics Product Information 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-list Contributions |
--------------
> Matt,
> I saw a listing on the RV-list regarding contributions received. I joined
> the list after solicitations. Please let me know how I can support the
> list and what level of contribution is customary...
> Thanks.
> Dennis
--------------
Hi Dennis!
You can send your contribution to: RV-List
C/O Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Contributions this year have ranged from $5 to $100 with many in the $20
to $30 range.
Thank you for your support,
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Product Information | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | info(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com W.W.W. | Specializing in Aircraft Avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-list Contributions |
--------------
> Matt,
> I saw a listing on the RV-list regarding contributions received. I joined
> the list after solicitations. Please let me know how I can support the
> list and what level of contribution is customary...
> Thanks.
> Dennis
--------------
Hi Dennis!
You may send your contribution to: RV-List
C/O Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Contributions this year have ranged from $5 to $100 with many in the $20
to $30 range.
Thank you for your support,
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)konza.flinthills.com |
Does anyone know about the Umonitor put out by RMI? It seems like it would
be a really great way to save space on the instrument panel. Is it easy to
install? Are the probes included in the price?
Tim Sweemer
RV4 skinning 2nd wing and waiting for fuselage kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)cyberhighway.net> |
Help!
I just finished drilling my VS skin to the skeleton and upon
disassembly discovered I have no
edge distance on the last rivet hole (the holes are half on half off the
end of the flange) on the VS 407 flanges (I think that is the number) where
they intersect with the 402 front spar. I am considering removing a
portion (1/4") of the 407 flange in this area and riveting through just the
skin and spar on these two rivets. What do you engineers think? This seems
reasonable to me as this is a stressed skin system(ie: the strenght is not
in the skeleton alone.). I will call Vans Monday AM but wanted some input
in the meantime.
These prepunched skins can be a real pain at times like this as I have
not
been able to
get my spars and ribs to match up with the prepunched holes on either the
HS or VS when layed out according to the plan dimensions.
(I would look in the archives but can't seem to get to them with this
system)
Dave Bergh
Mtn Home ID
RV 6 emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and other Yucky Fiberglass Jobs... |
SNIP
>
>So, somebody tell me that there is something better available to address the
>need for the fiberglass front part? Has someone come up with a nice pre-molded
>part that basically just needs to be rivited on? Or better yet, a really nice
>pre-stretched aluminum part - that would be really nice. I'd pay a lot of
>money for one of those!
>
>Any thoughts or suggestions on the topic of this and fiberglass parts in
>general would be most apperciated!
>
>Thanks-
>
>Matt Dralle
>
>
Matt:
I built one for my 4 out of 3003 soft aluminium. It's one piece and works great.
I made a cardboard sample and guesstamated the shape before shrinking and
stretching. I used a shrinker - stretcher and an edge roller.
With an afternoons worth of shrinking, stretching,rolling and a little
tapping it was done.
And Matt, just in case you were going to ask......I don't want to make
another one.:)
Have fun:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and other Yucky Fiberglass Jobs... |
>--------------
>
>SNIP
>>
>>So, somebody tell me that there is something better available to address the
>>need for the fiberglass front part? Has someone come up with a nice
>>pre-molded part that basically just needs to be rivited on? Or better yet, a
>>really nice pre-stretched aluminum part - that would be really nice. I'd pay
>>a lot of money for one of those!
>>
>>Any thoughts or suggestions on the topic of this and fiberglass parts in
>>general would be most apperciated!
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>
>>
>
>Matt:
>I built one for my 4 out of 3003 soft aluminium. It's one piece and works
>great. I made a cardboard sample and guesstamated the shape before shrinking
>and stretching. I used a shrinker - stretcher and an edge roller.
>
>With an afternoons worth of shrinking, stretching,rolling and a little
>tapping it was done.
>
>And Matt, just in case you were going to ask......I don't want to make
>another one.:)
>
>Rusty Gossard
>--------------
Oh Rats - I was going to do just that, then I saw your last paragraph, Rusty!
:-) Come on, everyone's got a price - I would love to have a totally trick
aluminum part like that...
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Will it REALLY work ????? |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
> Re: GPS article
>
> /I just read your article on GPS's. I've been
> /told by some pilots that the "boater" GPS's are
> /only accurate for slower moving vehicles.
>
> Only by pilots that have not taken the time
> to find out for themselves. The "slow" receivers
> are just as accurate as the fast ones, they're
> simply limited in software from displaying any
> speeds above a certain value to discourage pilots
> from taking advantage of lower cost receveivers
> and forcing them to buy the more expensive models.
>
> /In fact, the speed 100 knots was mentioned by more
> /than one pilot as the maximum speed at which the
> /boater GPS's would function properly.
>
> NOT TRUE witht the GPS2000 which tracks and displays
> speeds through 500 kts. I got a letter from a corporate
> pilot a few weeks ago who told me he never flys his
> boss anywhere in their Kingair without the GPS2000
> laying up on the glare shield looking at satilites
> out the window . . . he said it was the most
> accurate piece of navigation equipment in the cockpit!
>
> /As I am inclined to spend my hard earned money on
> /more important things (such as flying), the $600 -
> /$800 for a GPS has been 'out of the question' for me.
> /However, $200 sounds very reasonable for the features
> /you address in your article.
>
> Now, Wal-Mart stores stock them at $150 as the regular
> price and they were on sale here locally a few weeks
> ago for $138.
>
> /It is because of this I write to you to ask if your research
> /uncovered any speed limitations for the GPS2000? And
> /also: In what aircraft have you tested it?
>
> I've personally flown it in a few high wing Cessnas. I've
> loaned my own receiver out to an RV-6 pilot and a Bonanza
> pilot. Both reported good utility. NOW, remember that
> this little guy has to see sky . . . it can't mount on your
> control yoke and pretend like it's a big feller. In the
> Cessnas I've flown, I stuck a little patch of velcro on
> the cowl deck and put a mating piece on the bottom of
> my receiver. In this case, the receiver can set up where
> I can see the face all the time. In other rented ships,
> I just lay it face up on the cowl deck and pick it up
> from time to time to see what it says . . . it takes
> me more than 20 minutes to get lost so I don't need
> 100% heads-up service from the receiver display.
>
> Most important, since it's offered by Wal-Mart with
> a no-hassles return policy, go try it for yourself.
> It's a no-risk experiment.
>
> /Thank you very much,
>
> You're most welcom!
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob . . .
> AeroElectric Connection
> ////
> (o o)
> ==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
> | |
> | Go ahead, make my day . . . |
> | Show me where I'm wrong. |
> =================================
> 72770.552(at)compuserve.com
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
A few weeks ago when I was a couple hundred miles from home my expensive
panel mounted GPS quit. Well I managed to find my way with that
prehistoric VOR thing. First time I've actually used it.
I thought it sure would be nice to have a hand held GPS for a backup.
Then I read Bobs post about the GPS 2000. So I ran right down to
Wallmart and sure nuf just like he said 138 bucks. Cheaper than the
repair bill on the other one!
I took it up in the plane today and it worked great. Showed speeds up
180 mph. (It can also be set to read in kts) All indications agreed with
the other unit.
What a deal!
--
Bud Newhall
bud(at)softcom.net
__|__
__|__ ____(+)____
____(+)____ ' '
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aymar-Demuth Prop. |
Anyone had experience with Aymar-Demuth propellers?
I saw one at Sun-N-Fun, liked the way it looked, and the owner was happy with
it; but I'd like other opinions.
Phil Rogerson
6AQ 60057
Fernandina Beach, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | instrument panel |
What's a good source for some decent gauges/instruments for a panel?
Decent price and quality, if that's possible. Thanks..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <john(at)catlover.com> |
| Subject: | Devilbliss air tools |
Has anyone tried Devilbliss air tools, drill, nibbler, die grinder,...
I saw them at Lowe's, ~ $30.00 home, ~ $60.00 "professional" don't know
if Lowe's is nationwide.
They also have what look like very good quality offset snips, L & R, for
$16.00.
--
-6 empennage on order, tool shopping
Best Regards, John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john(at)catlover.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | overhauled instruments |
When a shop overhauls instruments (such as altimeters, etc.) do they
also redo the dial faces, numbers, etc?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1/4" holes in canopy? |
Tim,
when I did my canopy I initialy drilled #30 holes. After everything was
drilled and the canopy removed I used a #27 drill and slightly oversized the
holes in the canopy only. The key to your canopy not cracking now or later is
drill it up when the temp is 70deg or higher. Once the canopy is drilled you
need to remove all the hard material around the holes with a countersink.
MAKE SURE ALL THATS LEFT AROUND EACH HOLE AFTER COMPLETION IS SOFT PLASTIC.
Hope this helps
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Headsets/CD players |
Mark,
Glad you made it back ok! The model is an Alpine CDE 7825 am/fm cd reciever.
It really has never missed a beat! Surprised me to.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Unit Failure |
<< A few weeks ago when I was a couple hundred miles from home my expensive
panel mounted GPS quit. >>
Bud-
I'm sure there are some of us that would like to know which panel unit it was
that took a dump on you and under what circumstances? Was it Brand B/K,
Brand G, Brand T, Brand L, Brand M, Brand II or Brand N? C'mon, you can tell
me. I can keep a secret.
Further, once you get it fixed we would be most interested in the failure
analysis and corrective action to ascertain if it was infant mortality,
vibration induced or whatever. Inquiring minds want to know.
BTW, how's the old bird holding up now that you have some serious hours on
it?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and other Yucky Fiberglass Jobs... |
Hey Matt,
You mean you ask questions to? I took some (walmart) poster board and kept
cutting out shapes until I got what I wanted to go around the front of my
canopy. Once I got the right shape I picked up a small sheet of .020 soft
aluminum traced the template onto the aluminum and cut it out. Then I picked
up the existing holes in the canopy and riveted it on. You have to work with
it a little its not quite as easy as it sounds, but im sure it took less time
than glassing. It would also be slightly easier to do it in 2 pieces with a
seam in the middle. Good Luck!
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aymar-Demuth Prop. |
Phil,
You can put me down as a happy customer. It does everything he promises or
he will refund your money.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Jennings" <markjenn(at)halcyon.com> |
| Subject: | overhauled instruments |
>>When a shop overhauls instruments (such as altimeters, etc.) do they
>>also redo the dial faces, numbers, etc?
Typically yes. Everything I've had "overhauled" (mp, tach, vsi, =
airspeed, etc.) has come back refaced. "Repaired" just means to get it =
working.
- Mark
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Mark Jennings
markjenn(at)halcyon.com
markjenn(at)msn.com
206-462-6628
206-453-0374 (Fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6, Electric Flaps |
Hi,
I am in the process of installing the electric flap kit onto my RV-6.
Regarding EF-602 on drawing ED6-1:
The drawing simply shows two screws holding EF602 to the seat back
brace. However, looking at the top left photo on the "pictures" page,
there is clearly an additional piece at the top of EF602.
Can anyone tell me what that is?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | New Empennage Builder questions |
Today was my first day of building and it's nice to finally have almost all
the tools, the jig built and get down to makin' chips.
I've got the Pre Punched kit and that seems to be speeding things up quite
a bit. I got as far as final drilling and clecoing the spar flanges and
hinge brackets and drilling the HS411 bracket. Now I'm ready to dissemble,
debur, prime and rivet the whole rear spar sub assy.
My question is this; my inventory sheet shows that I should not have
received the items in bag 413, and indeed I do not have that bag. My next
step however is to drill the bolt holes in the spar for HS 411 but it
doesn't say what size to drill the holes. Without the bolts to measure how
am I suppose to know what size hole to drill? It seems to me that there
should be a table that shows what size hole is needed for AN 3-5A but I
can't seem to locate it. If I had the bolt I could just measure it. Then
again, if I could remember how the read the rivet/bolt ID number I could
figure it out as well.
Pretty silly questions here, I know, but.........
ThanksMike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Groom <lgroom(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Well folks, after attending part of the Minnesota Wing of Van's
Airforce get together today with Bill Benedict in attendance I found out
what the RV-9 is going to be.
Bill actually mentioned the RV-List at the seminar and how to get on
the list and how much good info is passed about via the list. He also
mentioned that he had heard that there was alot of "activity" on list
after a comment made by Van at Sun-N-Fun in regards to the RV-9.
Well here it is folks. It's to be a trainer acft based on the RV-6. In
fact they're using the fuse from the yellow RV-6A that ran out of gas a
year or so ago. It's going to have longer wings and a lower horsepower
engine in it. (I'm a bit miffed with myself as I can't remember what
size engine. Must of been when my daughter was bugging me about
donut's!) Anyway, Van started work on the design after some folks
especially from down-under asked for a trainer version.
That's about all the info Bill gave, not sure when they're going to fly
it etc, but that is what the RV-9 will be. I asked about the twin engine
version and Bill said something about Van has a hard enuf time buying
gas for 1 engine let alone 2 engines! (Van loves soaring, even has a
glider)
Larry RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L & M Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Ellison Throttle Body |
Hi All,
My mate is having some problems with his 0-360.
I would like any imformation on The Ellison Throttle Body.
How does one clean the holes in the metering tube? Any ideas on how to setup
Ellisons to run properly.
Has any one encountered fuel pressure fluctuations with 0-360s?
Thanks in advance.
Les Rowles
lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
Mike wrote:
>
> am I suppose to know what size hole to drill? It seems to me that there
> should be a table that shows what size hole is needed for AN 3-5A but I
> can't seem to locate it. If I had the bolt I could just measure it. Then
> again, if I could remember how the read the rivet/bolt ID number I could
> figure it out as well.
>
> Pretty silly questions here, I know, but.........
>
> ThanksMike
The short answer(s) are:
AN3 bolts have a nominal diameter of 3/16 of an inch.
A #12 drill bit will make a hole of the proper size (a few thousands
greater than 3/16 of an inch)
I feel there several advantages to 'pilot drilling' these holes with
smaller bits (say #30 drill)
and then "finish drilling" to final size.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | re: + compressors |
I am using a Sears 2HP compressor, 110 volts, on my project. It is about
28 years old, has painted a couple of cars and assisted in restoring a
couple also. It does just fine.
Ron Vandervort,RV-6Q easier on the compressors, kit.
rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
Can anyone give us more info on the Robbins Heat Muffs ie. quality and
cost comparison with the competition.
Thanks,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q mounting empenage
rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap. lib.wa.us
On Fri, 18 Apr 1997 aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Chet,
> Thats Robbins wing.
> Rick Robbins heat muffs and carb heat muffs, He is out of town this week but
> will be home on saturday. (303)-422-9389
> Ryan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Devilbliss air tools |
John wrote:
>Has anyone tried Devilbliss air tools, drill, nibbler, die grinder,...
>I saw them at Lowe's, ~ $30.00 home, ~ $60.00 "professional" don't know
>if Lowe's is nationwide. They also have what look like very good quality
offset >snips, L & R, for $16.00.
>Best Regards, John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john(at)catlover.com
John,
It has been my experience (compressors) that Devillbis makes an adequate
tool. I wouldn't be suprised if their lower priced air tools are Taiwn
made. They used to have a really good name. Almost as good as Binks
(Sprayers) then for some unknown business decision (survival?) they
cheapened their line. I would stick with something from Avery or Cleveland
or only buy their professional line of DeVilbiss. A cheap tool is an
expensive tool in the long run.
Al prober(at)iwaynet.net (With this new Eudora pro software Frank and Matt)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Acid resistant Spray bottles |
John;
The best spray bottles I've found, and they happen to also be the cheapest,
are sold by Shaklee. The last ones I bought were about 95 cents. That was
a long time ago (7-8 years) and they are still in use, some with acidic
liquids in them. I am a terrible housekeeper and normally just leave what
ever is left in the sprayer. It still pumps OK when I attempt to reuse.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DCHamilton(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1/4" holes in canopy? |
In a windshield installation job which I did on a Thorp T-18, the holes in
the
plexiglas were one half inch diameter to allow for thermal expansion of the
plexi and for possible mislocation of the holes. With no metal trim strip on
the
outside to receive the screw heads, Tinnerman countersunk washers can be
used. --- David Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Accident Data |
IF YOU stick to the plans for fuel system you should be O K . If you plan on
using auto gas you should consider installing a fuel vapor return line and
although it can be added later it would probably be a cleaner, lighter weight
installation if done with the fuel system installation. The RVator has a
diagram for this. It involves a tee close to the carb. a fitting filled
with solder (I used a spent 22 cal. cartridge tapped in the fitting) and a
.030 hole drilled in it. The line then goes back to fuel line uptsream of
the elec. boost pump - or to the tank. I installed a shutoff valve because
it would screw up the readings on my fuel flow guage. I fly with it off most
of the time and only open it when I have or expect to have a vapor lock
problem. Study up on Auto gas - vapor pressure ect.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: throttle quad |
I built an RV6A and installed two throtlles - one on the left so satisty my
fighter jock ego. I used vans throttle bracket and modified it for the two
throttles and mixture. I used mostly hardware from aircraft spruce. This
info won't help you much cause my bird is a 6 but the primer---I put in a tee
at the carb and ran a primer line to elec. solenoid (a c spruce again) and to
the cylinders - utilizing the elec. boost pump to provide pressure. I also
teed off at the same spot for a fuel vapor return line to eliminate vapor
lock when using auto gas. Works great. This primer system by itself helps
to clear a vapor lock. If you are going to use auto gas pay attention to a
system of this sort - VL can bring you down.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor Oil Line |
I used the teflon hose with the braided covering for my prop governor line
and also for all my fuel lines, primer and oil lines (with firesleeve of
course). It is stronger, bends easier, lighter weight and lasts a lifetime.
I had mine made up custom lengths at a local shop that does hydraulic hoses
and was cheaper than using airquip hoses. Also look into using a fuel vapor
return line if you plan to use auto gas. Happy Building!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EAA Tech Counselor |
Do the Tech Counselor thing if at all possible. AVEMCO gives a 10% discount
if you do it. Involves three visits from a TC - must do the paper work and
have it sent in to EAA. Also if you will do the Flight Advisor program you
will be covered during you first 10 hours of flight - otherwise no. Both
very good programs and very professional - worth doing!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Tim ,
Becki and I have had the RMD monitor in both of our RV's and plan to put
it in the new RV8. Does that answer your question....Geporge Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | installation tips & 1/4" holes (or larger) in canopy? |
<< In a windshield installation job which I did on a Thorp T-18, the holes in
the
plexiglas were one half inch diameter to allow for thermal expansion of the
plexi and for possible mislocation of the holes. With no metal trim strip
on
the
outside to receive the screw heads, Tinnerman countersunk washers can be
used. --- David Hamilton >>
Fellas:
My $.02:
On the windshield/rollover attach:
We drill 5/16 holes here. A #6 c/s screw is used here, with a short length
(1/4" or so) of vacuum hose around it (expansion cushion), and a #8 tinnerman
washer under the head. This will be covered by the fiberglass strip.
Slider section:
1/4" holes can be used where the holes are covered by aluminum (sides, rear
skirt attach, top tube). We use 5/32 or so around the front bow, where the
rivet heads are used to retain the plexi.
Be sure to de-burr all holes. We also simply file the edges smooth ( no
obvious scratches to catch your fingernail).
We've never had a cracking problem, in 10 or so installations.
Another tip- use paintable (not silicone) acrylic caulk under the edges of
the aluminum skirting, where water might leak into the interior. This stuff
comes in many colors ( it can be seen from the inside), and cleans off (while
still gooey) with mineral spirits.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Unit Failure |
aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << A few weeks ago when I was a couple hundred miles from home my expensive
> panel mounted GPS quit. >>
>
> Bud-
>
> I'm sure there are some of us that would like to know which panel unit it was
> that took a dump on you and under what circumstances? Was it Brand B/K,
> Brand G, Brand T, Brand L, Brand M, Brand II or Brand N? C'mon, you can tell
> me. I can keep a secret.
>
OK Gary as long as you don't tell anyone, it's a Garmin GPS 150. The
unit had about 190 hrs of use when it failed. It worked fine to my
destination but when I got ready to come home the screen has sort of
boxes of green dots sort of marching across the screen. Then after a few
seconds of that they change to vertical lines
then to horizontal lines marching across the screen, then repeat. It's
hard to navigate with this.
> Further, once you get it fixed we would be most interested in the failure
> analysis and corrective action to ascertain if it was infant mortality,
> vibration induced or whatever. Inquiring minds want to know.
>
I sent it back to Garmin and they repaired it and had it back to me in
about a week an a half. They said they replaced the CPU. No other
explanation. The bill was $210.
> BTW, how's the old bird holding up now that you have some serious hours on
> it?
>
> -GV
How can you call them "serious" hours, it's been nuttin but FUN.
All I've had to do to her is put gas in and change the oil once in a
while.
--
Bud Newhall
bud(at)softcom.net
__|__
__|__ ____(+)____
____(+)____ ' '
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RMI MicroEncoder |
Hi all,
My two cents worth on this. Since the MicroEncoder supplies essential data to
the transponder, it would seem logical for it to be powered any time the
transponder is, even though the transponder may not be switched on. For me,
that means when the avionics master is turned on. A separate breaker, fuse,
or PTC thermistor (ExpBUS item) should be used to protect the circuit and the
unit.
Since I mentioned ExpBUS, I will also state that I intend to use this DC load
center, although not as designed. I will mount the board in an accessible
location for servicing and remote mount the switches on the panel. I am a
commercial maintenance electrician and also dabble in electronics. I feel that
the advantages of this unit are as advertised (space, weight, cost, etc.) and
that the components used are of proven reliability.
Les Williams/6AQBME/N24LW (reserved)/Tacoma WA/completing tip-up sub-panel
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of TTC Carroll A. Bird
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 1997 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMI MicroEncoder
chester razer wrote:
>
>
> Stan Blanton wrote:
> >
> >
> > RV Listers,
> >
> > For those using a RMI MicroEncoder how do you have it connected to the
power
> > supply?
> >
> > Through an avionics master, seperate switch off of main power, always hot,
or
>
> I'm wiring mine through a 5 amp breaker, not a breaker with a switch,
> just a simple breaker. I plan on using the power switch on the unit to
> energize the monitor. I don't see the need for two switches in the same
> circuit doing the same thing.
>
> --
> Chet Razer
> crazer(at)egyptian.net
Thats fine Chet however the monitor has an off-on switch the
encoder does not.
Carroll Bird
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and other Yucky Fiberglass Jobs... |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>So, somebody tell me that there is something better available to
>address the
>need for the fiberglass front part? Has someone come up with a nice
>pre-molded
>part that basically just needs to be rivited on?
Matt, I'm a lifelong member of the "He-man Fiberglass Haters Club". I
don't fiberglass ANYthing unless I have to. After beating 10 pounds of
aluminum into various shapes that only slightly resembled a canopy
fairing I realized I didn't have the metal working skills to accomplish
the task.
So with much trepidation I jumped into a vat of FG resin and went at it.
It actually wasn't too bad. I used 3 layers of cloth that were slightly
staggered vertically so as not to have a tall, blunt edge and then put
about 5-6 coats of micro balloon slurry over it, sanding each layer. It
takes a little bit of fussing, but it came out nice.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy & Micro Glass |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> can you tell me where or what page to find epoxy and
>micro glass like you used on your ruder end caps in aircraft spruce
>book.Need help. RV6A
Dear RV6A,
You can find epoxy at your local Home Depot or a marine supply store.
Micro balloons can be purchased at an RC hobby store.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Chet & Glenn,
The fiberglass "piece" is a Dragonfly part that many people use to cover the
joint, usually because of a crack, etc. of the canopy. It looks nice.
Otherwise, the joint is visible if not painted over, which is also something
that is done.
Les
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of chester razer
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 1997 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6,Tip-up
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> RE: RV6 tip-up roll bar assembly.
>
> Is the seam on the assembly visible on the finished aircraft or is it
> covered up by part of the canopy assembly?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
If you are referring to the construction seam on the roll bar assembly
(where the two halves meet and the splice plate is underneath), it is
visible when the canopy is open. When the canopy is closed the seam is
hidden by a fiberglass piece that is constructed to dress up the place
where the canopy was cut
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Grounding shielded wires |
Question.
Which end of a shielded wire should be run to ground?
What are the criteria for requiring shielded wires?
I saw a friends professionally wired Lancair IVP (P for Pile of money), and
it has shields on almost all the radio wires, grounded at the
radio/electronic goodie. I didn't see where the alternator output was
grounded, (actually he has 2).
Specificially where should you ground the:
Radio power leads
Headset stuff
Alternator output wire
Alternator field wire
What others should use shielded wire?
Thanks
Bruce Patton
Lost in the wires again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
Hey everybody!
First, I must say that it is wonderful working on the RV again! (Contrary to
my whines below!)
Here's something that's really turning out to be a pain in the *ss. Is it
just me or all of those 'golden' screws that are used on the fuel tank, and
more specifically to my current task, around the canopy, a big pile of sh*t?
The phillips-head grooves are so soft they are next to useless. Now, maybe
I'm putting a little too much pressure on them, but I would say that generally
I am pretty easy on them. Are there different hardness 'grades' that can
be had? These must be -00 extra soft... Just wondering. Waaaa...
Anybody know of a good way to keep the little cinch-nuts from spinning in the
canopy frame...? Maybe some crazy-glue... Grown...
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
I was surfn' over to the Garmin homepage this weekend and was having a look
at the GPSMAP-195. Certainly a very impressive unit. I noted on the
"Physical Specifications" page that the enclosure was "Dry nitrogen filled".
What does this mean exactly? What is the purpose of this? What happens if
you 'let the nitrogen out'? I was thinking of coming up with a nice, compact
'behind the panel' mount/enclosue for the unit but what up with the nitrogen
filled thing?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
>Anybody know of a good way to keep the little cinch-nuts from spinning in the
>canopy frame...? Maybe some crazy-glue... Grown...
>
>Matt Dralle
>
Matt:
You must have an ooooooold kit. They don't use the rivnuts anymore....guess
why. They spin in the canopy frame and generally are a pain. We're poping
them in now with the soft pull pops.(Don't remember the pop #) You could go
to pops by spacing them where you haven't tried to put the rivnuts in if you
haven't drilled the canopy yet. Just a thought.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< Can anyone give us more info on the Robbins Heat Muffs ie. quality and
cost comparison with the competition. >>
They are of excellent quality and are easily adapted for each installation.
Rick is an outstanding welder and will also do custom items to print. IMO
they are a tough value to beat.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grounding shielded wires |
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
Question.
>Which end of a shielded wire should be run to ground? Snip<<
Bruce,
Typically, shields are used to carry away noise that gets into
wiring from nearby electric things.
Just as typically one would leave the unit (device) end of the shield
taped to the jacket of the power wires. Then attach the other end
(power source) to ground. This very weak energy can be (drained)
to ground but if you don't catch it up front you can drive yourself
squirrely
trying to find it later. Try to ground everything you can think of right
from the start.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
> My next
>step however is to drill the bolt holes in the spar for HS 411 but it
>doesn't say what size to drill the holes. Without the bolts to measure how
>am I suppose to know what size hole to drill? It seems to me that there
>should be a table that shows what size hole is needed for AN 3-5A but I
>can't seem to locate it. If I had the bolt I could just measure it. Then
>again, if I could remember how the read the rivet/bolt ID number I could
>figure it out as well.
>ThanksMike
Mike,
The Aircraft Spruce catalog gives dimensions on bolts and is a handy
catalog to have around. Believe it or not, you don't get "everything"
you'll need to build an RV in the kit and will have to order additional items.
You'll handle so many bolts during building that you might want to
consider buying a bolt gauge. If you're like me, you'll grab various bolts
for temporary fitting and not put them back in the correct place.
Eventually, you end up with a box of bolts and will want to sort them and
put them back in the correct place. I put all of my rivets and hardware in
plastic parts cabinets. This is much easier than sorting throgh sacks.
I generally use a #12 bit for AN3 bolts as a 3/16" bit provides for a very
tight fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001 wrote:
>
>
> Hey everybody!
>
> First, I must say that it is wonderful working on the RV again! (Contrary to
> my whines below!)
>
> Here's something that's really turning out to be a pain in the *ss. Is it
> just me or all of those 'golden' screws that are used on the fuel tank, and
> more specifically to my current task, around the canopy, a big pile of sh*t?
> The phillips-head grooves are so soft they are next to useless. Now, maybe
> I'm putting a little too much pressure on them, but I would say that generally
> I am pretty easy on them. Are there different hardness 'grades' that can
> be had? These must be -00 extra soft... Just wondering. Waaaa...
>
> Anybody know of a good way to keep the little cinch-nuts from spinning in the
> canopy frame...? Maybe some crazy-glue... Grown...
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For AircraftMatt
The only thing I can you can do is make sure the phillips head screw-
driver fit the screw as close as possible, the screws are of very poor
quality. The part that is the real pain in the #ss, is stripping the
head when the screw is going in and not being able to get it back out.
I use the screw once or twice and trash it.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
>Here's something that's really turning out to be a pain in the *ss. Is it
>just me or all of those 'golden' screws that are used on the fuel tank, and
>more specifically to my current task, around the canopy, a big pile of sh*t?
>The phillips-head grooves are so soft they are next to useless. Now, maybe
>I'm putting a little too much pressure on them, but I would say that generally
>I am pretty easy on them. Are there different hardness 'grades' that can
>be had? These must be -00 extra soft... Just wondering. Waaaa...
>
>Anybody know of a good way to keep the little cinch-nuts from spinning in the
>canopy frame...? Maybe some crazy-glue... Grown...
>
>Matt Dralle
Matt,
You're right about those cheap screws, they look crappy and the slots are
not very well defined. Mine are in a drawer somewhere, I didn't use any on
my six. I ordered new hardware out of catalogs. On visible screws in the
cockpit where the cheap-looking screws were to go, I used stainless steel
with mylon washers under them.
By the way, Snap On has some #2 Phillips bits with little "ribs" on the
four flutes. These are to prevent cam out and work very well. In fact, when
removing thw SS screws from the bottom of my plane, I've had the bit stick
in the screw (non magnetic) and pull out of the magnetic handle. These work
very well if "someone else" has "buggered-up" one of your screws.
For your revolving rivnuts, you might try Locktite or even J_B weld.
You're not ever going to have to remove them, right?
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
z>
>I was surfn' over to the Garmin homepage this weekend and was having a look
>at the GPSMAP-195. Certainly a very impressive unit. I noted on the
>"Physical Specifications" page that the enclosure was "Dry nitrogen
>filled". What does this mean exactly? What is the purpose of this? What
>happens if you 'let the nitrogen out'? I was thinking of coming up with a
>nice, compact 'behind the panel' mount/enclosue for the unit but what up
>with the nitrogen filled thing?
My Magellan M3000 claims the same.
I think "dry nitrogen filled" is better than air-filled because:
a) No moisture -> no condensation -> no corrosion or shorting
b) No oxygen -> no corrosion
c) No-one snoops inside to see how it works, because that would let the
nitrogen out.
I also think it's probably a crock, because Magellan's units aren't
waterproof (except splashproof), so it wouldn't take very long before the
nitrogen leaks out & oxygen/water leaks in from the air. Which leaves (c)
as the only useful feature... and that in turn fails when people realise
that (a) and (b) don't apply.
If only they'd filled them with hydrogen or helium, at least they'd be
lighter to carry!
Frank (who hasn't tried opening his M3000).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
>--------------
>>I was surfn' over to the Garmin homepage this weekend and was having a look
>>at the GPSMAP-195. Certainly a very impressive unit. I noted on the
>>"Physical Specifications" page that the enclosure was "Dry nitrogen
>>filled". What does this mean exactly? What is the purpose of this? What
>>happens if you 'let the nitrogen out'? I was thinking of coming up with a
>>nice, compact 'behind the panel' mount/enclosue for the unit but what's up
>>with the nitrogen filled thing?
>
>My Magellan M3000 claims the same.
>
>I think "dry nitrogen filled" is better than air-filled because:
>
>a) No moisture -> no condensation -> no corrosion or shorting
>
>b) No oxygen -> no corrosion
>
>c) No-one snoops inside to see how it works, because that would let the
>nitrogen out.
>
>I also think it's probably a crock, because Magellan's units aren't
>waterproof (except splashproof), so it wouldn't take very long before the
>nitrogen leaks out & oxygen/water leaks in from the air. Which leaves (c)
>as the only useful feature... and that in turn fails when people realise
>that (a) and (b) don't apply.
>
>If only they'd filled them with hydrogen or helium, at least they'd be
>lighter to carry!
>
>Frank (who hasn't tried opening his M3000).
>--------------
Well, that's good enough for me! :-) Hey Frank, pop a few screws out of
your 3000 and let us know if all the magic leaks out! There used to be a
guy on the list that worked in the Garmin Tech support. If he's still on
the List, maybe he can tell us - off the record of course - if the units will
still work if you let the magic out... ?
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aymar-Demuth Prop. |
I've been flying behind an Aymar-Demuth fot over a year now.
I've had two Pacesetter's previous.
Definitely prefer the Demuth. Not cheap, and it took 6 months to get
delivery, but it does everything they claim.
Steve
Schmitz
RVator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aymar-Demuth Prop. |
I have a Aymer -Demuth prop on my RV-4, I like it very well, The factory tech
guys know their stuff and they stand behind their product. I have 100 hours
on it now. I fly with a harmonic dampner on it and the first comment I always
get from first time passengers is how smooth the airplane is and the lack of
any viberation. ( two thumbs up! )
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and other Yucky Fiberglass Jobs... |
Matt,
Templates work well for canopy skirts but some .020 mylar is much better
than cardboard, it is inextensible and you can see what is going on
underneath it. When you have good mylar skirts, transfer to aluminum.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>
>Hey Matt,
> You mean you ask questions to? I took some (walmart) poster board and kept
>cutting out shapes until I got what I wanted to go around the front of my
>canopy. Once I got the right shape I picked up a small sheet of .020 soft
>aluminum traced the template onto the aluminum and cut it out. Then I picked
>up the existing holes in the canopy and riveted it on. You have to work with
>it a little its not quite as easy as it sounds, but im sure it took less time
>than glassing. It would also be slightly easier to do it in 2 pieces with a
>seam in the middle. Good Luck!
> Ryan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
<< Is it just me or all of those 'golden' screws that are used on the fuel
tank, and
more specifically to my current task, around the canopy, a big pile of sh*t?
>>
I believe you to be correct in your assessment of these screws. They are
chromated cadmium plated alloy steel and are quite ductile. I prefer the
stainless steel MS24694Cx structural screws. ACS has them. Still, the
cross-recessed driving recess is easy to cam out. Use a hardened #2
screwdriver bit with the tip ground off a little (so that the wings seat
well). Going into a nutplate the first time use a little anti-sieze (weiner
schleider) on the threads to supplement the dry film lubricant already on the
nutplate.
Steve Barnard used some nice Tri-Wing screws to attach his tanks but I never
asked him where he got them. These are very resistant to cam-out as are Torx
but I can't seem to find them in 100 degree flat head.
Anyone know about these?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Grounding shielded wires |
<< Specificially where should you ground shields for the:
Radio power leads>>
You don't need to shield power leads to anything IMO. You should shield all
low level audio and control signals though.
<< Headset stuff>>
Shield mic definitely and headset signals if you like. Depends on who's
intercom you are using as to which end of shield you ground. Follow the
manufacturer's instructions.
<< Alternator output wire>>
Not necessary to shield and ground but a large capacitor to ground is often
beneficial.
<>
Not necessary to shield.
Except for antennas, generally speaking you should ground only on one end of
the shield unless specifically contradicted by manufacturers' instructions.
The end chosen should either be the source of the noise (if it is a source)
or the end that is nearest the item you want to protect (if it is a target).
The connection should be as short as possible and 16 AWG wire or larger (if
you have braid that is better than twisted hookup wire) so as to be a low
impedance path to ground.
Mag P-lead shields should be tied to ground at the mags AND to the ignition
switch GND terminal.
These are my opinions only and I bow to the superior knowledge of Bob
Nuckolls if he cares to comment.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Almost finished RV-6 for sale |
Some of you may have heard of the accident here in Washington where a pilot
flying a Volkplane crashed on takeoff. I just heard that he had been
building an RV-6 and that it is almost done; lacking only the avionics (and
maybe part of the panel).
He had $36,000 invested in it and it is now for sale. If anyone is
interested they can contact Don Pridham at 1-360-683-9165. Don lives on the
airport where the crash happened. He knows how to get in touch with whoever
is responsibility for selling the RV.
I got all this third hand; a friend that just talked to Don.
The workmanship is reported to be first rate, BTW.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Malone <scottm(at)pta6000.pld.com> |
| Subject: | Kansas City Rvrs |
Kansas City Rvrs- I am planning on taking my wife to a meeting in KC on
Wed. 4-23-97. Will have most of the day to kill and would love to look
at some finished or nearly finished RV6As. I am working on the cowling,
canopy and fairings on my RV6A. RVrs are lonely clear out here in SW
KS.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Scott Malone
scottm(at)pld.com
316-356-2000
316-492-2327 Home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
Matt,
I have not seen that spec but I assume it refers to the display being filled with
dry nitrogen.
Jerry Prado
rv6a wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
which ever screw you use, the kit supplied ones or stainless, just the
smallest (first thread is enough) dollop of Never Sieze will make them
thread in the nutplate for the first time much, much easier. You might
not even strip out a head. I learned this late in the building process.
Just revmember, it's never to late for Never Sieze.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
z>
>>Frank (who hasn't tried opening his M3000).
>
>Well, that's good enough for me! :-) Hey Frank, pop a few screws out of
>your 3000 and let us know if all the magic leaks out!
Not until after my Warranty has expired!
>There used to be a
>guy on the list that worked in the Garmin Tech support. If he's still on
>the List, maybe he can tell us - off the record of course - if the units
>will still work if you let the magic out... ?
Magic.... that's the smoky stuff isn't it? I've found that when the smoke
leaks out of an appliance or chip, it doesn't work any more. (For some
reason, this doesn't seem to apply to toasters).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
>>Believe it or not, you don't get "everything" you'll need to build an RV
in the kit and will have to order additional items. <<
Wadda ya mean I don't get everything I need to build the RV? :) As it
turns out I need to read a little closer. I saw the AN3-5 listed under a
bag that I didn't have. I read the next sheet and saw it listed under a
bag that I did have. Maybe next time I'll look closer before posting a
stupid question. So, I've got the bolt, but I still didn't know what size
to drill it. I mic'd it and it came out to .186" which of course is 3/16.
I received a couple of private a public messages stating that a #12 drill
bit would be the right size. Unfortunately finding a #12 bit at Home Depot
is not as easy as it sounds. You'd think that somewhere, someone would
have recommended this size bit. Anyway, I drilled it with a 3/16 bit and,
you're right, it is tight but it fit without using a hammer.
Next step, prime and rivet. I'd like to preset the squeezer on a test
piece but I don't have any scrap flange pieces to test on. How do most
people "test squeeze" the first rivet?
Thanks for the help Bob,
Mike Nellis "MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com" - Priming Empennage and riveting rear
spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L & M Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
Hi All,
Could some body please send me Avery tools E-Mail adress please.
Thank you.
Les Rowles.
RV6 75% empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | air/oil separator |
do you know of that phenomenon where you can't remember anything except what
you are currently working on? So how does the oil drain back into the
engine from the air/oil separator? I just see plugs on the bottom of the
sump, below the full oil level. Tap into the dip stick perhaps? Firewall
Forward doesn't mention anything either. kevin 6A -wiring/plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
Ditto on the cad-plated screws (bad) and ditto also on the switch to
stainless (good).
Another thing... a lot of A&P's including myself use DRYWALL (yes) bits
in our screwdrivers for phillips screws -and we especially look for the
ones with the serrated edges already mentioned. These bits are much
superior to the phillips bit. At least we think so.
Scott
N4ZW
-just screwin' around and fitting the !@#%$#$%%!!! cowling & extensions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | caummisa(at)arn.net (Richard Caummisar) |
| Subject: | Re: Which compressor is the quietest? |
Like many others I've been lurking, absorbing information that if I had
to pay for it would have paid for a complete RV already! So let
me offer the list something back that falls into MY area of expertise.
I fully agree that hearing protection is required for alot of the
operations that builders perform, BUT one the preferred progression
for protection from hazards (i.e. NOISE) is:
1.) engineer out the hazard (buy quiet equipment)
2.) administrative controls (have someone else do the work, don't go near
the noise source, etc.)
3.) PPE personal protective equipment (ear plugs, safety glasses, gloves,etc.)
In that order.
Listers are trying to use the best method (1. engineer out the hazard) when they
try to find the QUIETEST compressor (use of captials as a pun intended).
So.....buy the quietest compressor you can afford AND use the hearing protection
of your choice (ear plugs or muffs)as Bob points out.
(PS Bob, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.)
>
> Nowhere in this discussion have I seen mention of an obvious solution.
>Wear hearing protectors. I've got 3 or 4 pairs laying about the shop. If I
>strike one hammer blow, I put a set on. Same goes for blowing with an air
>nozzle, center puching with an automatic center punch, etc. etc.
> Every loud noise kills a little of your hearing. After years of flying,
>shooting, driving feed trucks and front end loaders and running feed mills,
>my hearing has taken a beating. I've been doing the "Whisper test" for my
>last four flight physicals because I can't hear the tones in the test
>headset. So, protect your hearing so you won't have to go out and buy a
>Bose headset.
> By the way, my vote goes to the belt drive, cast iron. I used a Sears and
>Capt. Bill and I are now using a Coleman.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
>more specifically to my current task, around the canopy, a big pile of sh*t?
>The phillips-head grooves are so soft they are next to useless. Now, maybe
Matt,
A big 10-4 on the screws. I had the same problem with them on the fuel
tanks. Cleveland tool has some driver bits that have ribbed 'traction'
faces that work GREAT! Doesn't make the screws any better, but makes it
easy to deal with them.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Ron,
Their is no comparison, No one else makes a heat muff even close to the
quallity of Rick Robbins. Rick is a personal freind, soft spoken and very
modest. I really dont think he knows how nice his work really is. If you dont
get your moneys worth from him Ill give your money back!
Ryan B RV4131RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
I believe it is just an inert gas used to keep moisture out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
<3359D578.571F(at)egyptian.net>
| From: | gasobek(at)juno.com (Gary A. Sobek) |
Years ago when I worked on Military Radar equipment, we used bee's wax or
DoAll on the threads of our Stainless steel screws where they go into
nutplates. Only rubbed one side of the screw on the stuff. This was
usually only done once during the life of a screw. About 40% of the
screws had galled threads and could not be reused with out some form of
anti-seize. This trick may not be FAA approved but it does help with
difficult screws on your homebuilt.
Gary
RV-6, 20480, N157GS
Good luck Matt. Yes, stay away from the riv-nuts if at all possible. I
agree with what Chet Razer wrote:
writes:
>
>which ever screw you use, the kit supplied ones or stainless, just the
>smallest (first thread is enough) dollop of Never seize will make them
>thread in the nutplate for the first time much, much easier. You
>might
>not even strip out a head. I learned this late in the building
>process.
>
>Just revmember, it's never to late for Never Sieze.
>--
>Chet Razer
>crazer(at)egyptian.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Grounding Shielded Wires |
/Question. Which end of a shielded wire should be run to
/ground?
Shielding of wires adds a modicum of protection for
two kinds of propogation into or out of a wire:
The physical positioning of two wires together
in the same bundle causes them to couple to
each other in two ways - electrostatic and
electromagnetic. A wire which carries high
frequency noise in less than an idealized
"trasmission line" mode will radiate components
of that noise just like an antenna.
Electromagnetic coupling occurs as a result of
a magnetic field which MUST exist about any wire
carrying a flow of electrons. Any modulation of
intensity (some signal component other than pure
d.c.) in a wire makes it the primary winding of
a transformer. Adjacent wires are potential
"secondaries".
Electrostatic coupling occurs any time there
is a dynamic (rapidly changing) voltage difference
between adjacent conductors. The insulation between
wires (including the air space) acts just like the
dielectric of a capacitor and some amount of the
antagonist's signal can couple into parallel routed
victims.
Radiated noises travel about just as the signals
into and out of the antenna on your hand held radio.
Shielding will attenuate electro-static coupling
a great deal. Electro-magnetic coupling is only
slightly attenuated by common shielding techniques.
Attenuation of radiated coupling with shields falls
somewhere between the values for electrostatic and
electromagnetic coupling.
As a general rule, I ground the shield on one
end only and to the device for which we're building
a noise-wall.
What are the criteria for requiring shielded wires?
Before you can decide which end to ground, you must
first decide if shielding is a good idea. You have
to decide which devices in the airplane are potential
victims and which are potential antagonists. You also
need to decide what propogation modes exists between
V/A pairs and how the propogation can be attenuated
to acceptable levels or eliminated.
Obvious antagonsist are ignition wires. Spark plug
wires seldom run in bundles with other wires but they
are strong potential antagonists -AND- radiators.
So, we use resitance wire to de-qualify the conductors
and good carriers of high frequency energy -AND-
shield them to keep all the noises bottled up inside.
Obvious victims are audio systems, signal lines between
radios and VOR indicators, small signal lines between
encoders and transponders, etc.
All three propogation modes can prevail but the strongest
is electrostatic. The best defence against electrostatic
coupling is distance . . don't put vicitm wires in same
bundles with antagonist wires . . . same thing works well
for electro-magnetic coupling . . . but electromagnetic
coupling is pretty weak unless the antagonist wire carries
lots of current . . . 10 amp or more.
The strongest defence against electromagnetic coupling is the
twisted pair of wires . . will touch on that again later. Shielding
both victim and antagonist wires will help with attenuating
the electrostatic modes. Radiated coupling is very rare.
Shielding of victim wires is sometimes helpful but you
generally don't have much problem with radiated victimization
unless the victim is badly designed.
/I saw a friends professionally wired Lancair IVP
/(P for Pile of money), and it has shields on almost
/all the radio wires, grounded at the radio/electronic
/goodie. I didn't see where the alternator output was
/grounded, (actually he has 2).
It's not uncommon for an amateur builder to consider the
things I've just written above and throw his hands up.
There's about a million possibilities and he's right.
So, you can either shield everything in hopes that you've
covered all the potential problems but I assure you.
It's heavy, time consuming and for the most part, totally
unnecessary.
/Specificially where should you ground the:
/Radio power leads
Everything behind the panel should get power ground from
a single point if possible. I developed the firewall/panel
ground bus that B&C builds especially for this purpose.
Single point grounding eliminates the possiblity for noises
getting into systems via other paths (i.e. ground loops -
QUITE common in composite airplanes).
/Headset stuff
Headsets are quite happy wired with twisted pairs and no
shielding. Insulate the headset jack from local ground
where it mounts and ground via one lead of the twisted
pair to the "headset ground" or "headset LO" pin on the
audio system.
Microphones too will work quite nicely in most systems as
a twisted trio of wires . . . again, insulate jack at point
of attachment to airframe and gound to appropriate pin on
audio system.
I've been stocking a 5-conductor, shielded cable that I
used on my installations. Two conductors for headset,
three for microphone/push-to-talk and a separate shield
ground over the bundle. The shield and microphone LO tie
together at the audio system.
/Alternator output wire
Shielding this wire is totally unncessary . . . I know,
thousands of Cessnas do it and for the life of me, I don't
know why. I was working at Cessna when some of the ADF
noise problems were being worked on the "new" line
of ARC 300 series radios. A capacitor on the alternator
-AND- shielding of the alternator wires were added too
but I don't recall any quantitive testing done to justify
the shielding . . . the filter took most of the noise out
of the ADF . . . shielding MIGHT have helped some VHF
comm systems but I kinda doubt it.
/Alternator field wire
Same as above.
/What others should use shielded wire?
Anything recommended by the manufacturer of a product.
For example, the strobe folks usually supply a shielded
trio for their strobe heads. Audio/Intercomm System
manufacturers should be very explicit as to where
shielded wire is necessary or recommended. They should
also tell you EXACTLY where to ground it. Same thing
goes for any other black boxes in your avionics suite.
For the most part, I find that 95% of builder problems
with noise are a result of architecture (too many ground
behind the panel, poor wire routing considerations) or
failure to follow manufacturer's instructions.
Shielding is some help on some noise problems. However,
you cannot predict that shielding is going to be the fix
of choice without knowing the antagonist/vicitm/propogation
mode for a particular noise problem, . . . most of the time,
shielding won't help.
This is why it's so important to pay attention to ALL noise
control techniques. Let me wire your airplane and I'll bet
I can get it to run noise-free with NO shielding on any
wires behind the panel.
About 10 years ago, when the 'Connection was just getting
started, one of my readers called and told me about all
the shielding and filters he'd installed on his airplane.
He then asked if there were any other filters I'd recommend.
I asked if he was having a noise problem and he told me that
he'd not yet flown the airplane! This guy had invested
POUNDS and HOURS in a noise reduction system that may well
have produced no positive results if other considerations
were not a part of his overall noise control program.
I recommended that he take it all out and get rid of the
weight and complexity. IF and WHEN he had a noise problem,
we'd work out the VAP (victim/antagonist/propogation) loop
and fix it.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
For what it's worth, I have a Garmin 100 AVD that I purchased at the sun'n'
fun in 1992. It has failed 4 times and it has cost me about $200 each time
it failed. This last time it only lasted 5 months and about 20 hours before
failure. When I get ready to install one(after about 2000 more hours) in my
RV it won't be a Garmin.
Ray and Nancy Murphy
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV6A empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
How about if the unit were to short out airborne, it would not catch fire
in a nitrogen bath.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | rear spar attach |
Michael,
I recently read in one of Van's printed media, don't remember which, that the
fuselage is only along for the ride. What really matters is the relationship
between the wings and the tail plane. The info stated a way to determine
this.
Check the newsletters, manual, or E-mail Van's.
Les Williams/RV-6AQBME/N24LW (reserved)
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Michael C. Lott
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 1997 5:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: rear spar attach
Thanks to those who responded. Measuring from the center makes a good
difference. I was using Jethro Bodine ciphering when i said 25/16 = 1
11/16". I should have said 1-9/16". Anyways, has anyone ever run into
the problem of the rear spar attach points not lining up closely enough
when the when incidence angle was adjusted properly? What would one do
in a case like that? Maybe I should attach the rear spar attach points
(wing to fuselage) first, adjust the incidence, then rivet the center
section into the fuselage. I'm just re-doing someone else's mistake
now, but, I want it right cause I'll be doing the other one in a couple
months and I want it perfect. And as safe as possible. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
How do most
>people "test squeeze" the first rivet?
Mike,
I put the rivet into the hole and put the squeezer with dies installed
next to the rivet and look at the relationship. I use a pneumatic squeezer
90% of the time. I put 3/16" washers under the sets and test and if more
spacers are needed, insert them.
If your using a hand squeezer, you can do the same thing and just keep
turning the adjustable ram until the rivet is set correctly.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | immelmann(at)themall.net (Ed Holyoke) |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
>bit would be the right size. Unfortunately finding a #12 bit at Home =
Depot
>is not as easy as it sounds. You'd think that somewhere, someone would
>have recommended this size bit. Anyway, I drilled it with a 3/16 bit =
and,
>you're right, it is tight but it fit without using a hammer.
>
Mike,
=46ind a machinists supply house and buy a #12 straight ream, about $5.
A #13 drill bit is the right pre-drill size. Run the ream slowly and
it'll give you a real nice hole for your 3/16 bolt.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 Tailfeathers
immelmann(at)themall.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
>>
>> How do most people "test squeeze" the first rivet?
>>
>Mike,
> I put the rivet into the hole and put the squeezer with dies installed
>next to the rivet and look at the relationship. I use a pneumatic
squeezer
>90% of the time. I put 3/16" washers under the sets and test and if
more
>spacers are needed, insert them. If your using a hand squeezer, you can
>do the same thing and just keep turning the adjustable ram until the
rivet
>is set correctly.
>
>Bob
Hi All,
Just a footnote. Make sure you push the head of the rivet into the
workpiece.
This will prevent the head from "floating" up, when the rivet is set.
(This works for both pneumatic and hand squeezers.)
Jim Ayers
less_drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
It's not just a matter of quality..it's a matter of attitude. Had this same
premature failure happened with a Trimble product, the owner would have
probably received a free repair or replacement in addition to a contact by
a Trimble representative.
Here's an experiment for you; Call both Trimble and Garmin requesting a
replacement manual. You'll get a free manual from Trimble before you get
the part number, price and procedure for getting your replacement manual
from Garmin.
I am not affiliated with Trimble in any way, just my experience talking.
BTW, our last wartime effort was equipped with Trimble Trimpacks in the
field.
Jerry H. Prado
RV6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fitzgerald" <theredbaron(at)204.119.177.28> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Serial #80333 |
Thanks to all who helped this first time builder. As of Friday April
19, 1997 serial #80333 RV-8 is now mine!!
Thanks again - lots of questions to follow :)
Dave
RV-8 Ser.# 80333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>
>Could some body please send me Avery tools E-Mail adress please.
>Les Rowles.
>RV6 75% empenage
>
http://www.averytools.com
Your welcome
denny h.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS Unit Failure |
<335A3CC9.6878(at)softcom.net>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
writes:
**** Snip *****
>
>I sent it back to Garmin and they repaired it and had it back to me in
>about a week an a half. They said they replaced the CPU. No other
>explanation. The bill was $210.
>
How long has the Garmin 150 been on the market? Shouldn't it still
be under warrentee?
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Kevin,
I installed my air/oil seperator on the right side (passenger side) of
the firewall.
I then plumbed the oil return line intot he #3 cylinder rocker oil return
line, using
a "T" AN coupler. I used a short rubber hose between the 3/8" alum pipe
off the
"T" up to the air/oil seperator.
Hope this helps....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>do you know of that phenomenon where you can't remember anything except
what
>you are currently working on? So how does the oil drain back into the
>engine from the air/oil separator? I just see plugs on the bottom of
the
>sump, below the full oil level. Tap into the dip stick perhaps?
Firewall
>Forward doesn't mention anything either.
> kevin 6A -wiring/plumbing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pilla, Mike" <mpilla(at)geeeffpee.mitre.org> |
| Subject: | 1/4" holes in canopy? |
I followed Van's advice. I used a #41 bit and used the -3 clecoes.
Then, I used a unibit to enlarge the frame hole to 1/8 while
simultaneously
enlarging the plexi hole. Seemed to work fine.
I did a couple of minor cracks, but one was when I was startled while
drilling with the #41 bit and one happened after the rivet had been
pulled
and sat for a couple of days; that one still has me puzzled.
Mike Pilla
RV4, #2866, installing engine components
>----------
>From: aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com]
>Sent: Saturday, April 19, 1997 10:15 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 1/4" holes in canopy?
>
>
>Tim,
> when I did my canopy I initialy drilled #30 holes. After everything was
>drilled and the canopy removed I used a #27 drill and slightly oversized the
>holes in the canopy only. The key to your canopy not cracking now or later is
>drill it up when the temp is 70deg or higher. Once the canopy is drilled you
>need to remove all the hard material around the holes with a countersink.
>MAKE SURE ALL THATS LEFT AROUND EACH HOLE AFTER COMPLETION IS SOFT PLASTIC.
>Hope this helps
> Ryan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | al stevenson <al.stevenson1(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antennas |
Jerry H. Prado wrote:
>
>
> The response for the thread I started on trading GPS gear has been overwhelming.
All gear is spoken for and my instrument panel is very happy. Thanks!
>
> For all of you that own hand-held GPS receivers requiring high gain, amplified
(active) antennas that can be easily water proofed as well as other neat GPS
ite
>
> http://home.cdsnet.net/~purple/projects/g45contr/4sale.htm
>
> For $65US, you can purchase a 2.5" diameter antenna which is already water resistent
and guaranteed to out perform the factory optional antennas.
>
> For info on how to waterproof and mount this antenna on an airplane turtledeck
: (courtesy of Iso Tamori of Fujitsu, who also makes NICE GPS antennas),
>
> Jerry Prado
Jerry
I have contacted the GPS supplier in the U.K. to get more info on the unit and
am thinking of purchasing one
for my Garmin GPS 95 - if it will work with that unit... I would be very interested
in receiving the
information you have on how to mount this unit on my nearly finished RV-6A. Thanks
in advance!
Al Stevenson
E-mail: al.stevenson(at)sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DCHamilton(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
Difficult-to-remove Phillips screws can sometimes be removed by putting a
dab of valve grinding compound in the criss-cross slots. The abrasive
gives the screwdriver more bite. I haven't tried it, but maybe dirt and spit
would work as well. Make sure the blades of the Phillips screwdriver
have not become rounded off.
Rivnuts can be prevented from rotating by using keyed rivnuts. A special
tool is used to snip a keyway [notch] in the edge of the hole before
installation. See Aircraft Spruce 96-97 catalog p. 372, L-3600
Keyway Notcher. -- David Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
<< do you know of that phenomenon where you can't remember anything except
what
you are currently working on? So how does the oil drain back into the
engine from the air/oil separator? I just see plugs on the bottom of the
sump, below the full oil level. Tap into the dip stick perhaps? Firewall
Forward doesn't mention anything either. kevin 6A -wiring/plumbing
>>
I've seen a fitting tapped into the prop gov pad for the return, also into
the bottom of the dipstick tube. Tony B uses a baby bottle to catch the goo
that comes out of the separator, and dumps the thing every once in a while
(you can see thru the thing to see when it's getting full).
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KOZINSKI GARY <kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument lighting |
What is the difference/advantages/disadvantages the type of instrument
lighting you use? There are instruments with no lights, internal lights,
post type lights and overhead lights. It would seem to me that internal
lights would be the best bet but I don't know if changing the bulb is a
big issue. Most conventional panels seem to have something other than
internal lights and I figure there must be a reason why. My 172K has an
overhead light which made me see imaginary stars and objects reflecting
off the windshield so I installed post lights which made a "day and
night" difference.
Any lighting "experts" out there?
Gary RV-6, s/n 20038, kozinski(at)symbol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | morristec(at)ICDC.COM |
RV>I do not know if it is the same material but I have been using furniture pol
RV>(pledge) for years (15+) to clean my canopy in both gliders and power planes
Pledge is the way to go. 25 yrs plus in gliders and helicopters. Static
free and helps fill small scratches. Just like the Ad.. no waxy build
up.
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
writes:
>>Snip My next step however is to drill the bolt holes in the spar for
HS 411 but it doesn't say what size to drill the holes. << Snip
Mike,
Print 5pp, bottom of page, right of center. Plan calls out AN 3-5A.
On the 3 white sheets (01-VANS AIRCRAFT, INC.) dated 02/28/96,
Pg. 4 under (new bags) you will see there are 4 ea. AN3-5A bolts
in bag 617.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel |
<< What's a good source for some decent gauges/instruments for a panel?
Decent price and quality, if that's possible. Thanks..
>>
There is a small company in OR called Van's Aircraft, Inc. You might have
heard of them. I have found that they almost always have the best prices on
just about everything. If you look through the catalog you will find that
even items that are sold direct from manufacturers, and normally
undiscounted, are cheeper from Van's.
Van works hard to give us good value.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Questions from a first time prospective |
support(at)vansaircraft.com
Les Williams
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!STANAIR(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 18, 1997 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Questions from a first time prospective
WHAT IS VAN EMALE LIST NAME.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> You'll handle so many bolts during building that you might want to
>consider buying a bolt gauge. If you're like me, you'll grab various
>bolts for temporary fitting and not put them back in the correct place.
>Eventually, you end up with a box of bolts and will want to sort them
>and put them back in the correct place.
I'd also recommend buying ACS's undrilled bolt assortment right off the
bat. I spent way too much time ordering (or trying to find locally) 3 or
4 bolts that never seemed to be at hand when needed. That assortment
has just about everything you'll need, and also comes in real handy when
you start installing the panel and engine. As you deplete the various
sizes (3-3 to 3-5's go real quick) you can put them on your monthly ACS
order...
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
I tap'd into the dip stick. Herman
>
> do you know of that phenomenon where you can't remember anything except what
> you are currently working on? So how does the oil drain back into the
> engine from the air/oil separator? I just see plugs on the bottom of the
> sump, below the full oil level. Tap into the dip stick perhaps? Firewall
> Forward doesn't mention anything either. kevin 6A -wiring/plumbing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | EPOXY & MICRO GLASS |
In the Dec '92 RVator, pg 11 (pix pg 4) is a good article about finishing the
elevator counterbalance caps ala Van.
Les Williams/RV-6AQBME/N24LW (reserved)/Tacoma WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!STANAIR(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 18, 1997 4:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: EPOXY & MICRO GLASS
GEORGE ORNDORFF CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE OR WHAT PAGE TO FIND EPOXY AND
MICRO GLASS LIKE YOU USED ON YOUR EMPENNAGE ENDS CAPS IN AIRCRAFT SPRUCE
BOOK. HELP NEVER USED THIS STUFF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>Here's something that's really turning out to be a pain in the *ss.
>Is it just me or all of those 'golden' screws that are used on the fuel
>tank, and more specifically to my current task, around the canopy, a big
pile of
>sh*t? The phillips-head grooves are so soft they are next to useless.
Now,
>maybe I'm putting a little too much pressure on them, but I would say
that
Hi Matt, glad to see you spending some time on the -4 again. I've
stripped quite a few of those screws too. I've found that putting a very
small amount of soap on the threads lubricates them enough to take some
of the torque off of them. Also after you run a screw into and out of
the nutplate a few times (I don't remember HOW many times I had the tanks
on and off my 6A) the nutplate isn't quite as aggressive.
Also use a good quality #2 screwdriver bit. I usually run them down to
the #1 torque setting with a cordless, then finish it by hand.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
writes:
>
>Hi All,
>
>Could some body please send me Avery tools E-Mail adress please.
>
>Thank you.
>
>Les Rowles.
>RV6 75% empenage
>
>
Try: Averytools(at)aol.com That should work also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Ray,
Hope this isnt a trend, I to have a Garmin 100 AVD and it has never failed
me yet! (knock on wood).
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Les,
Sorry to hear about your Mate and his problems! Be carefull this is a tough
crowd.
When I contacted Ben Ellison and asked him about this he informed me that I
could not clean out the holes. He said they use some type of High frequency
sound or vibration set up to clean them out. I personaly have had no fuel
flow fuel flow problems on mine I have an EFS 4. However a good freind of
mine has the next size up on his 0-360 and has experienced many fuel flow
problems. He has completely reengeneered his whole fuel system including
changing all the lines fuel pumps and running a paralell system. He also sent
the unit back and had it gone over. His problem seems to have subsided for
the time being. We think it was a bad check valve in his mechanincal fuel
pump that was the culprit. If I can help any more E mail me direct with a
little more info on your problem.
Ryan Bendure RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Sutphin" <hsutphin(at)magicnet.net> |
While pledge does do a good job on the plexi - I'd think twice about usin=
g it on any type of vehicle that you would want to repaint.
It is extremely hard to completely remove the silcones that Pledge (and =
some other products) leaves behind. Will cause problems in your next pai=
nt job. Ask the guys who paint for a living.
Harold
----------
>
> =3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: morristec(at)ICDC.COM
> RV>I do not know if it is the same material but I have been using furni=
ture
> polish (pledge) for years (15+) to clean my canopy in both gliders and =
power
> planes
> Pledge is the way to go. 25 yrs plus in gliders and helicopters. Stati=
c
> free and helps fill small scratches. Just like the Ad.. no waxy build
> up.
> Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
I'm asking for a fellow builder, "Is there some magic someone knows about to
plug a hole in a plexi canopy and have come out reasonably nice or is he
stuck buying a new one?
We suggested he could put a Piper plastic air vent in if he enlarged the
hole, but he didn't recieve that suggestion in the spirit it was given.
He told his sad story of having the garage door open and a gust caught his
new canopy and blew up and over as he ran in slow motion to try to save it.
A hole about a inch wide, right above the pilots seat was poked into it. :^(
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Overhaul Video |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
I received some queries about the O-320 assembly video I bought at
Sun'n'Fun. I f
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grounding shielded wires |
A word of caution on shield grounding. When you are dealing with wiring
carrying audio signals - headphones, microphone. receiver and transmitter
audio wires - these should have the shields grounded at only one point -
usually at the radio stack or audio panel. The other end of the shields
should be isolated from ground. This is to avoid any stray ground paths
finding their way through the shields rather than the structure. Another
thought on grounds - I've seen a couple of RV's locally that have had the
fuselage longerons beside the instrument panel so peppered with holes for
grounds there's not much left to carry structural loads.
Mike Talley RV-6 starting on the first of the dreaded fuel tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument lighting |
Gary asked:
>What is the difference/advantages/disadvantages the type of instrument
>lighting you use? There are instruments with no lights, internal lights,
>post type lights and overhead lights.
I'm no expert but I've used them all and I KNOW which is preferable.
Post lights are installed in my Debonair and they beat hell out of overhead
lites. Each replacement instrument I get, I get it with internal lighting as it
is far superior to post lights. The relationship is transitive or at least I
think that is what it is called. Internal is best.
There is one other kind called "eyebrow". I put them between internal and post.
I'm comparing "good installations" of each type.
Red lighting for night vision I'm told is antiquated - does that mean it is now
officially approved?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Pop rivets and push pull tubes?? |
Hi all,
Plans call out pop rivets to hold ends on tubes, I guess it must work but seems
like nice steel screws or bolts would be better.
QUESTION: I put my parts in drawers - what does a MD42-BS look like?? I can't
find them in my mechanics guide or ACS catalog. Van's catalog has them listed
as round head aluminum rivet with steel mandrel 4/32nds by 2/16ths? Puzzling.
QUESTION 2: How does the static air pop rivet thing happen? I didn't
understand the doc.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
Let me see if I got this straight. Are you guys saying that I can run my oil
vent line back into the engine or into a can/bottle. Is there an article
that I can reference on this subject? Does anybody have a copy? Right now
my vent line runs out the bottom of my cowl and the oil runs down the belly
of my plane. While this does wonders for the lubrication of my tailwheel, it
does nothing for the shine of my paint.
This sure would help me from keeping the mess off the bottom of my aircraft.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument lighting |
<< Any lighting "experts" out there? >>
Well I'm no expert, but I do play one on TV...
I used post lights and flood lighting. I like post lights because you are
able to switch bulbs (from a non-critical instrument) in flight. You can
also "aim" the light where you need it. Bulb change on burn-out is very easy
as well. On the down side, in the event of a crash, they provide something
for your head to hit. So don't crash (and keep your shoulder harness on)!
For flood lights I used the "eye-ball" lights that Van's sells. I took a red
Sharpie marker and "painted" the lens red. I mounted the lights just in
front of the F-604 bulkhead where it meets the upper longeron. One on each
side of the cockpit. These work great as map lights or instrument flood
lights and they are bright.
I flew almost the entire way to Lakeland from New Jersey at night and glare
was not a problem. Plenty of light as well. The pots were turned down for
most situations. BTW I put all instruments on one pot and all avionics and
the engine instruments on another (the second pot doubles as a day brightness
adjustment for my avionics) and the flood lights on yet a third. The Vision
Microsystem EPI-800 system looks real good at night!
The lighting pots are wired to my nav position lights. I did this so I
wouldn't accidently run the cockpit lights during the day. Besides, if you
don't need one - you don't need the other.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/4" holes in canopy? |
Pilla, Mike wrote:
>
>
> I followed Van's advice. I used a #41 bit and used the -3 clecoes.
> Then, I used a unibit to enlarge the frame hole to 1/8 while
> simultaneously
> enlarging the plexi hole. Seemed to work fine.
>
> I did a couple of minor cracks, but one was when I was startled while
> drilling with the #41 bit and one happened after the rivet had been
> pulled
> and sat for a couple of days; that one still has me puzzled.
>
> Mike Pilla
> RV4, #2866, installing engine components
>
> >----------
> >From: aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com]
> >Sent: Saturday, April 19, 1997 10:15 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: 1/4" holes in canopy?
> >
> >
> >Tim,
> > when I did my canopy I initialy drilled #30 holes. After everything was
> >drilled and the canopy removed I used a #27 drill and slightly oversized the
> >holes in the canopy only. The key to your canopy not cracking now or later is
> >drill it up when the temp is 70deg or higher. Once the canopy is drilled you
> >need to remove all the hard material around the holes with a countersink.
> >MAKE SURE ALL THATS LEFT AROUND EACH HOLE AFTER COMPLETION IS SOFT PLASTIC.
> >Hope this helps
> > Ryan
> >
> >
> >Hi all looks like a good place to put in a little advice,when drilling
plexi it is very important to regrind you're bits a little.Take off a
little of the leading edges so that there is a flat spot along the
cutting edge(no positive rake even negative alittle)and you will have
less problems or none.Worked in a place that does a lot of plexi and all
the bits are like that and I found out why the hard way!!!!!
David Price
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
The notcher is kind of expensive. A small four-cornered file will do a
fine job of notching.
----------
> From: aol.com!DCHamilton(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Golden Screw...
> Date: Monday, April 21, 1997 8:03 AM
>
>
> Difficult-to-remove Phillips screws can sometimes be removed by putting a
> dab of valve grinding compound in the criss-cross slots. The abrasive
> gives the screwdriver more bite. I haven't tried it, but maybe dirt and
spit
> would work as well. Make sure the blades of the Phillips screwdriver
> have not become rounded off.
> Rivnuts can be prevented from rotating by using keyed rivnuts. A
special
> tool is used to snip a keyway [notch] in the edge of the hole before
> installation. See Aircraft Spruce 96-97 catalog p. 372, L-3600
> Keyway Notcher. -- David Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
>> I'd also recommend buying ACS's undrilled bolt assortment right off the
bat. <<
Who is ACS and what's their phone number?
Mike
MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
On some race cars, the crankcase breathers are plumbed into the exhaust
header collector. The fitting is angled so that exhaust flow tends to create
a slight vacuum. The oil fumes then burn in the exhaust. Would something
like this be feasible on an A/C engine?
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
I answered my own question by looking at my compressor manual (Amazing what
you can find by looking over the parts list). The little 3" length of pipe
with a cap IS indeed a drain hole extension, which makes it much easier to
drain the oil into a plastic milk jug, rather than letting it drool down the
side of the tank.
However, it dribbles out quite slowly, so I have a hint. I happened to have
some small circles of heavy leather lying around, and I enlarged the hole in
the middle so that I could stick the nose of the blow gun through it. I
turned the regulator way down (10-20 PSI is quite adequate), and using the
disk to cover the filler hole, I blew the oil out of the crankcase.
Make sure you've got the end of that tube INSIDE the neck of the bottle if you
do this. I did, but I can imagine what a mess it would make if you didn't.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | A riddle. Not RV related (Chatter) |
Someone sent this to me; had to share it with you guys (and gals)
>
>
>Pay close attention to this one... and NO CHEATING!!!
>
>
>DO NOT SKIP AHEAD. Read this message ONE LINE AT A TIME and just do
>what it says. You will be glad you did. If not, you'll feel like a jerk
>and wish you had listened.
>
>
>1) pick a number from 1-9
>
>2) subtract 5
>
>3) multiply by 3
>
>4) square the number (multiply by the same number -- not square
> root)
>
>5) add the digits until you get only one digit (i.e. 64= 6+4= 10=
> 1+0=1)
>
>6) if the number is less than 5, add five. Otherwise subtract 4.
>
>7) multiply by 2
>
>8) subtract 6
>
>9) map the digit to a letter in the alphabet 1=A, 2=B, 3=C, etc...
>
>10) pick a name of a country that begins with that letter
>
>11) take the second letter in the country name and think of an animal
> that begins with that letter
>
>12) think of the color of that animal
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>**********************************************************************
>
>****** DO NOT SCROLL DOWN UNTIL YOU HAVE DONE ALL OF THE ABOVE
>********
>**********************************************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Here it comes, NO CHEATING or you'll be sorry.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>You have a grey elephant from Denmark.
>How do you like that?
>
>--
>
>
><---- End Forwarded Message ---->
>
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Malone" <mmalone(at)dialus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kansas City Rvrs |
Scott Malone wrote:
>
>
> Kansas City Rvrs- I am planning on taking my wife to a meeting in KC on
> Wed. 4-23-97. Will have most of the day to kill and would love to look
> at some finished or nearly finished RV6As. I am working on the cowling,
> canopy and fairings on my RV6A. RVrs are lonely clear out here in SW
> KS.
>
> Looking forward to hearing from you.
>
> Scott Malone
> scottm(at)pld.com
> 316-356-2000
> 316-492-2327 Home
Maybe you shouldn't live in sw kansas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Donnelly" <daved(at)humminbird.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
>
>I was surfn' over to the Garmin homepage this weekend and was having a look
>at the GPSMAP-195. Certainly a very impressive unit. I noted on the
>"Physical Specifications" page that the enclosure was "Dry nitrogen filled".
>What does this mean exactly? What is the purpose of this? What happens if
>you 'let the nitrogen out'? I was thinking of coming up with a nice, compact
>'behind the panel' mount/enclosue for the unit but what up with the nitrogen
>filled thing?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Matt Dralle
>
>Matt,
I've been using the GPS 195 for almost 1 year, and the GPS 95 before that.
The moving map display is fantastic, display is good, backlighting very
good. The BEST part is the HSI view. I highly recommend it, although you
cannot store personal waypoints. Presumably, I guess this will prevent
personal instrument approaches.
Dry nitrogen is injected into the housing after assembly to displace the
moisture filled atmosphere trapped at the time of final assembly.
Supposedly this will prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the
lens in some atmospheric conditions. In reality, the plastic enclosure with
numerous connectors, lens, keypad etc. is far from hermetically sealed, and
will breathe. In high temps, air escapes from the housing, in cold
temperatures, air is drawn into the housing. Whatever the content when it
left the factory - it will be different after a few hot/cold cycles.
Dave
RV4 waiting on fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Malone" <mmalone(at)dialus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kansas City Rvrs |
Scott Malone wrote:
>
>
> Kansas City Rvrs- I am planning on taking my wife to a meeting in KC on
> Wed. 4-23-97. Will have most of the day to kill and would love to look
> at some finished or nearly finished RV6As. I am working on the cowling,
> canopy and fairings on my RV6A. RVrs are lonely clear out here in SW
> KS.
>
> Looking forward to hearing from you.
>
> Scott Malone
> scottm(at)pld.com
> 316-356-2000
> 316-492-2327 Home
Get back to work on my plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bubba Joe <Bubbajoe(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
I noted on the
> >"Physical Specifications" page that the enclosure was "Dry nitrogen
> >filled". What does this mean exactly? What is the purpose of this? What
> >happens if you 'let the nitrogen out'?
>
> My Magellan M3000 claims the same.
>
> I think "dry nitrogen filled" is better than air-filled because:
>
> a) No moisture -> no condensation -> no corrosion or shorting
>
> b) No oxygen -> no corrosion
>
> c) No-one snoops inside to see how it works, because that would let the
> nitrogen out.
>
> I also think it's probably a crock, because Magellan's units aren't
> waterproof (except splashproof), so it wouldn't take very long before the
> nitrogen leaks out & oxygen/water leaks in from the air. Which leaves (c)
> as the only useful feature... and that in turn fails when people realise
> that (a) and (b) don't apply.
>
> If only they'd filled them with hydrogen or helium, at least they'd be
> lighter to carry!
>
> Frank (who hasn't tried opening his M3000).
I have had some experience with the nitrogen filled electronic
devices.Most being depth finders by Humminbird and Lowrance.One key
reason for the Nitro' is also to keep a stable atmosphere internally.
What this means is what Frank mentions of moisture but also keeps temp
and "most" humidity out of the electronic goodies.The problems I've seen
have been on wet fishing days then a dramatic temp change caused a
"fogging up" of the screen.With the nitro' filled devices this has been
eliminated. My $.02 worth!!
Rich Miller..finishin emp...orderin wing RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
NO, we are not saying you can run your vent line back into the engine!!
We are saying you can run the oil return line from the oil seperator
back into the engine. The 'air' vent line from the seperator must still
vent out the bottom of the engine area.
Herman
>
> Let me see if I got this straight. Are you guys saying that I can run my oil
> vent line back into the engine or into a can/bottle. Is there an article
> that I can reference on this subject? Does anybody have a copy? Right now
> my vent line runs out the bottom of my cowl and the oil runs down the belly
> of my plane. While this does wonders for the lubrication of my tailwheel, it
> does nothing for the shine of my paint.
>
> This sure would help me from keeping the mess off the bottom of my aircraft.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darwin Esh <103126.3212(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Been cleaning my windshields with pledge since 1952 when I was crop dusting. BUT
I use 409 on the leading edge of the wings. Both work good. Hope I can keep it
up for another 45 years. Dar RV 6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)world.std.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
Hi,
both my manifold pressure gauge and vacuum gauge
have two connections. One is marked P and the other V.
They both have these markings. What does P and V stand
for? How do I hook them up. Thanks.
Cheryl Sanchez
csanchez(at)world.std.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Overhaul Video |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
This completes a previous post which was interupted.
I have further information on the maker and the availability of the
video showing assembly of an O-320 from parts.
Skyward Tech seems to be related to Mattituck, the engine overhauller.
I spoke to one of the staff at Mattituck today who said that the video
had just been completed with early sales at Sun'n'Fun. They are
planning an ad in Sport Aviation in the next month or so featuring a 24
hour 800 number for orders.
ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hpair(at)thegrid.net |
| Subject: | RV4 or RV6 wing tips for sale |
I have a brand new set of wing tips for sale with nut plates installed
ready to drill the holes in the wings. 1st $250.oo takes em PS. I'm having
trouble with my mail system so If you don't hear from me call.
Harry Paine
805-481-2524
hpair(at)thegrid.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry E. Walker" <efford(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Sylvan Adamson wrote:
>
>
> I have a question for all you profesional stickey finger users of proseal.
> Not having started the RV project yet I havn't had the pleasure of using the
> stuff. I have a fiberglass fuel tank that at the location where the 1/4 inch
> fuel drain screws in, the schmuck who taped it ran the tap in a little to
> far. The threds are fine, but the drain can be screwed in all the way by
> hand, becoming tight just as it bottoms out. I could just epoxy it in with
> 3M 2216, but getting it out in the future would be questionable. Would
> proseal work on this and still let me replace the drain in the future if
> needed? Thanks Sylvan
If I were you I,d use some of the "red stuff" The one part compound that
you can paint on with a brush. Furane Chemseal make a version. You can
paint the stuff on with an acid brush, just enough to coat the threads.
Screw the fitting in as far as you like and coat the external side with
a little more. Let it harden and coat again. If you ever need to
remove it, it will soften in Acetone or MEK. You can also heat it
gently until it softens.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Serial #80333 |
David J. Fitzgerald wrote:
Thanks to all who helped this first time builder. As of Friday
April
19, 1997 serial #80333 RV-8 is now mine!!
Thanks again - lots of questions to follow :)
Dave
RV-8 Ser.# 80333
Dave, hi
Congratulations, ask away.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
| Subject: | New Empennage Builder questions |
Hey Mike,
I'm attaching the Yeller Pages in a private message to you, in case you
don't have a copy (they're on
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm )
ACS = Aircraft Spruce a.k.a AC$ - 800-824-1930; 714-870-7551
http://www.aircraft-spruce.com
EB #80131
------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 04-21-97 FROM SMTPGATE @MAILMN (MNellis(at)compuserve.com)
>> I'd also recommend buying ACS's undrilled bolt assortment right off the
bat. <<
Who is ACS and what's their phone number?
Mike
MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 195... |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com (Cecil T Hatfield) |
Matte, The unit would be filled with Dry nitrogen to keep the moisture
out. I'm licensed by the state of Calif. to service fire extinguishers.
Thats what we use to keep the dry chemical dry as well to expell contents
when needed.
cecil hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
I vote for Pledge. On my glider, the canopy is almost 6 feet long. Every
year I give it a good soap and water wash, followed with a wax job using
ZeroStatic wax sold by Aircraft Spruce. (Carnuba wax, probably much cheaper
in the auto parts store, but you want to avoid silicon based wax)
In the field, I will flush it with pure water and a soft rag if it is dusty,
but usually just spray on some Pledge and clean carefully. You can scratch
them if you rub too hard, but the wax seems to prevent the scratching.
Bruce Patton
Properly grounded, thanks Bob , et al.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Missing dimensions on fuel valve mount plate?? |
Hi all,
I see on dwg 47 - if memory serves - that corner notches are 3/4 inch up from bottom
but
width is not shown. It does suggest it might also be 3/4 inch but not fully dimensioned.
Because it is not clear to me where it fits, I can't dope it out for myself.
How does it fit in?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Unit Failure |
<< How long has the Garmin 150 been on the market? Shouldn't it still
be under warrantee? >>
Must be a tail-light warrantee. They cover it until they can no longer see
your tail lights as you drive off.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
>
>On some race cars, the crankcase breathers are plumbed into the exhaust
>header collector. The fitting is angled so that exhaust flow tends to create
>a slight vacuum. The oil fumes then burn in the exhaust. Would something
>like this be feasible on an A/C engine?
>
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4(wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>
I use this system on my RV-4 and it works very well, No oil on belly and no
drips on the hangar floor. I got the idea from Larry Vetterman.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
<< Who is ACS and what's their phone number? >>
No flame intended , but , do you receive any kitplane magazines? If you do,
I would think that ACS's advertising department would want to talk to you to
find out how you could ignore their ads, as they are only the biggest
supplier of kitplane materials on the planet.
You really need to get some more information if you are going to build a safe
plane. I would recommend contacting EAA and buying some of the Tony Bingelis
books to get some starting info.
Then check the Yeller Pages at http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
for ACS and other valuable suppliers.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Ryan wrote:
>When I contacted Ben Ellison and asked him about this he informed me that I
>could not clean out the holes. He said they use some type of High frequency
>sound or vibration set up to clean them out.
> Ryan Bendure RV4131RB(at)aol.com
Ryan,
If you need to use a sonic cleaner then get a sonic denture cleaning unit
if the parts are small enough to fit in it. They are usually about 4" X 4"
and work great. I have one and use it to clean some parts on SCUBA
regulators and other close tolerance stuff. They're not expensive (about
$35.00) and if your wife has a problem with it tell her she can use it to
clean her jewelry. Mine does! Al prober @iwaynet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
Mike Wills wrote:
>
>
> On some race cars, the crankcase breathers are plumbed into the exhaust
> header collector. The fitting is angled so that exhaust flow tends to create
> a slight vacuum. The oil fumes then burn in the exhaust. Would something
> like this be feasible on an A/C engine?
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4(wings)
> willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Mike:
If you plumb the crankcase breather so that it dripps onto the exhaust
pipes, most of the oil will burn off.
Robert Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pop rivets and push pull tubes?? |
>
>QUESTION: I put my parts in drawers - what does a MD42-BS look like?? I
can't
>find them in my mechanics guide or ACS catalog. Van's catalog has them listed
>as round head aluminum rivet with steel mandrel 4/32nds by 2/16ths? Puzzling.
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -
>
I listed a question along that line short while ago. No real answers. I was
up to Van's and asked the question. John got a pen drawn sheet he said they
use and made me a copy. It left me with still a lot of questions , but it
helped. E-mail them maybe they will send you a copy.
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
>> Print 5pp, bottom of page, right of center. Plan calls out AN 3-5A.
On the 3 white sheets (01-VANS AIRCRAFT, INC.) dated 02/28/96,
Pg. 4 under (new bags) you will see there are 4 ea. AN3-5A bolts
in bag 617. <<
Thanks for the tip Larry, Like a dummy I went down the list of items in
the bags a saw that bag 413 had what I needed but I didn't have bag 413!
It wasn't until after I posted the message that I turned the page and saw
that I did indeed have bag 617. Sheezzzzz
Mike Nellis "MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com" - Priming Empennage and riveting rear
spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
>Who is ACS and what's their phone number?
>Mike MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com
Mike,
ACS= Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. 1-800-824-1930 They have a good
selection of aircraft stuff although sometimes, their service is a bit slow.
I prefer to order from Wicks Aircraft Supply, 800-221-9425. They don't
stock quite as much stuff but their service is quicker (at least for those
of us living in the midwest).
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
>Let me see if I got this straight. Are you guys saying that I can run my oil
>vent line back into the engine or into a can/bottle. Is there an article
>that I can reference on this subject? Does anybody have a copy? Right now
>my vent line runs out the bottom of my cowl and the oil runs down the belly
>of my plane. While this does wonders for the lubrication of my tailwheel, it
>does nothing for the shine of my paint.
>Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Gary,
I've read an article by Tony B. in either one of his books or in Sport
Aviation. I had an air/oil separator on my six for 350 hours. Just took it
off so the "black box" on the Jeff Rose E.I. would have a place. When I
used the separator, I drained the oil back into the oil filler tube. I
tapped a hole for 1/8 pipe and used an AN hose fitting. For the "overboard"
portion, I routed the hose to a 5/8" aluminum tube (with a "whistle notch"
in it) and dumped the fumes on the exhaust pipe. The belly stayed very
clean. After removing the separator, I re-routed and still dump onto the
exhaust pipe. I haven't flown enough to find out if the belly is going to
stay clean. I don't do accro and this probably contributes to a clean belly.
I bought the separator from a salvage yard. It came off a Cessna. I
believe these are used with the old, wet vacuum pumps. None of the 6
airplanes I've owned have had a separator. They all had either no vacucm
pump or dry pumps.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
>
>>> I'd also recommend buying ACS's undrilled bolt assortment right off the
>bat. <<
>
>Who is ACS and what's their phone number?
>
>Mike
>MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com
>
I believe it is Aircraft Spruce.....1-800-824-1930
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
| From: | durbanski(at)juno.com (Daniel R Urbanski) |
Hi Mike, look again, all empenage kits come with extra material to
pratice with.
Regard's
Daniel rv6a left wing
writes:
>
>>>Believe it or not, you don't get "everything" you'll need to build
>an RV
>in the kit and will have to order additional items. <<
>
>Wadda ya mean I don't get everything I need to build the RV? :) As it
>turns out I need to read a little closer. I saw the AN3-5 listed under
>a
>bag that I didn't have. I read the next sheet and saw it listed under
>a
>bag that I did have. Maybe next time I'll look closer before posting
>a
>stupid question. So, I've got the bolt, but I still didn't know what
>size
>to drill it. I mic'd it and it came out to .186" which of course is
>3/16.
>I received a couple of private a public messages stating that a #12
>drill
>bit would be the right size. Unfortunately finding a #12 bit at Home
>Depot
>is not as easy as it sounds. You'd think that somewhere, someone
>would
>have recommended this size bit. Anyway, I drilled it with a 3/16 bit
>and,
>you're right, it is tight but it fit without using a hammer.
>
>Next step, prime and rivet. I'd like to preset the squeezer on a test
>piece but I don't have any scrap flange pieces to test on. How do
>most
>people "test squeeze" the first rivet?
>
>Thanks for the help Bob,
>
>Mike Nellis "MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com" - Priming Empennage and riveting
>rear
>spar
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Grounding shielded wires |
snip> This is to avoid any stray ground paths
finding their way through the shields rather than the structure.
On the subject of ground paths....
What is current practice in RV's for *bonding* different parts
of the airframe. I haven't seen any mention of it in the plans or
the builder's manual. I checked the Archive, and reread chapter 5 of
the AeroElectric Connection and got some good ideas.
Most aircraft have braided bonding cables connecting, for instance,
an elevator to the horizontal stab. The F-16 bonds the gear doors and
the speed brakes to the fuselage. This brings both surfaces to equal
potential, so that static charges or electrical system currents don't
have to pass through hinges.
Has anyone had any experience with noise on the comm that was caused by
static buildup/discharge or by metal-to-metal vibration?
Should I be concerned about grounding any accessories through primered
or sealed (riveted) joints? I suppose there's still a lot of metal-to-metal
contact through the rivets.
I intend to install at least one bonding jumper on each of my control surfaces.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Originally posted to the Europa Listserver:
/The jargon got the better of me here, and as I would
/like to understand what you are talking about Graham,
/can you please explain:
/2)What a SPDT and a DPDT is?
At the risk of running afoul of european switch naming conventions,
I'll share the following . . .
"SP" does indeed mean single pole . . . one wire may be switched
to one or more other wires.
"DP" two wires . . .
"4P" four wires . . . . etc.
Number of throws is a little esoteric . . . an SPST switch is
the common, two-position, on-off switch but taken literally,
one would like to describe it as two "throws" one for ON and
one for OFF. To erase all ambiguities, consider adding a
second phrase to the description: "SPST ON-OFF" fairly describes
the most common switch function.
Now, suppose you wanted to have a switch to an either-or type of
task. You can puchase a single pole switch that makes a connection
at both extremes . . . lots folk like to think that SPDT is
enough to describe this switch . . . electricians on this side
of the pond call it a "three way" switch . . . because it has
three connections to it . . . makes a lot of sense doesn't it?
How about calling it SPDT ON-ON? Now the function is clear.
You can buy this same switch with a center off detent where we'll
call it SPDT ON-OFF-ON.
How about a spring loaded return from one side . . . SPDT ON-OFF-(ON).
Parens are widely used in catalogs to describe a spring loaded
momentary position.
We can also buy both extremes spring loaded . . . SPDT (ON)-OFF-(ON).
The same general functions are available in toggle switches having
two, three or even four poles. This variety in mechanisms allows
you to do some interesting things. Suppose you want to extend flaps
with a permanent magnet motor by holding the switch until the desired
position is reached, yet have the flaps retract all the way when the
switch is thrown up. Use a DPDT ON-OFF-(ON) wired for polarity
reversing to the motor and the momentary side for extend flaps.
Placing the switch in the full up position will have them fully
retract with no further attention from the pilot.
There's a very useful variation on the DPDT switch where one
half of the switch transfers when the toggle is moved from one
extreme to the center; the other half transfers as you continue
through center to the opposite extreme and called an
SPDT ON-ON-ON. This guy is handy for having taxi lights and
landing lights on one switch. Far down position is off, mid position
is taxi, upper position is landing light. This same switch can
be wired to fill a SP3T function where any one of three circuits
are selected by positioning the toggle in down, mid or up.
One of my favorite applications for this switch is to wire strobe
and nav lights to the same switch such that down is off, mid
position transfers strobe controlling side of switch and upper
position adds nav lights. This lets you run strobes by themselves
during daytime ops and add nav lights after dark. Each system still
runs from it's own protection on the bus. Saves on panel space.
I use toggles to control both mags plus starter using yet another
variation of the DPDT ON-ON-(ON). Wire the starter contactor
through the two switches so that the right mag switch (not
impulse coupled) must be OFF for the starter to be accessable.
Use the momentary, far up position on the left mag switch to finish
the path that engages the starter. After the engine starts,
the right mag is turned on and the starter is disabled. Again,
saves dollars (two toggles are less expensive than the classic
key switch) and absolutely prevents kickbacks from having a right
mag come alive at just the wrong time during a failed starting
sequence.
By adding the function callout on behind the mechanical
callout, you can quickly describe the operation of any
switch in a very unambiguous manner.
/May I _strongly_ recommend Bob Nuckoll's AeroElectric
/Connection if you are electrically challenged. This book
/covers all the basics of electrical wiring for aircraft
/and assumes that you know zip about wiring.
Don't know that I've got it ALL in there yet but we're
planing a pretty good sized update in the next revision
package. I think I'm finally going to tackle the chapter
I've been putting off for the past ten years . . NOISE.
/I am sure Bob will let you know how to get hold of a copy.
/(Bob - the address for my commission cheque is....... :))
Actually, we do reward our shil . . . uh . . . 'er subscribers
who help promote the work. A good referral gets the benefactor's
own subscription bumped up a year. I've got one guy in South
Carolina who has a life-time subscription. He's promoted us
so well that I gave up keeping track of 'em!
For those of you who have never seen the book, it's a three-ring,
loose-leaf binder format that gets updated in some way every
year. The materials used in the update process are gleaned from
our participation on the various lists and SIGs. It's truly
a joint effort for us and our subscribers. If I were not taking
the time to work with all of you on the net, it would be very
difficult to know what kinds of things need to be in the book!
Check our website for more details.
BTW . . my wife is taking webcrafting lessons and will be overhauling
our website in the near future. Many big changes coming on line
including a whole new bunch of products. We're working three
techniques for low fuel warning (one is LED/fiber optic) and
a new, 12-slot annunciator that is totally customizable with
respect to ledgends, colors, pull-up or pull down activation and
whether or not a warning onset gets a flashing light and master caution
indication. Tiny enough for an RV-4 and sophisticated enough
for a Lancair-IV but about 1/2 the price of contemporary offerings.
All of our new gizmos for homebuilders will become bureaufodder
for my efforts to become an FAA santioned DER (designated engineering
representitive). We'll be getting STC/PMA on most of these items
as they become available. Electronics is wuuuunnnnderrrrfuuulllll.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Malone" <mmalone(at)dialus.com> |
| Subject: | Avionics Panel Planner |
Ready for avionics panel. Need software to layout panel prior to
fabrication. Found Panel Planner software in Jetstream catalog but is
on back order. Does anyone know of another software package or Panel
Planners phone no. so I can call MFG direct?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James & Mary Mc Phee <bluegum(at)ihug.co.nz> |
>
>Well folks, after attending part of the Minnesota Wing of Van's
>Airforce get together today with Bill Benedict in attendance I found out
>what the RV-9 is going to be.
> Bill actually mentioned the RV-List at the seminar and how to get on
>the list and how much good info is passed about via the list. He also
>mentioned that he had heard that there was alot of "activity" on list
>after a comment made by Van at Sun-N-Fun in regards to the RV-9.
> Well here it is folks. It's to be a trainer acft based on the RV-6.
Van started work on the design after some folks especially from down-under
asked for a trainer version.
Ok, Guys, after lall the fun you've had on the Rv-9 speculation, this is the
1 to go with. I had several conversations with Van 3 years ago on this
matter as we wanted to set up an assembly facility in NZ for the Aero Clubs.
The design has been on Van's desk for about 5 years. Wingspan will probably
be 25 Ft, powered by a 125 hp Lyc O-235 with a cruise in the 130 Kt area.
Otherwise a basically straightforward RV-6A (remember it's a trainer)
James Mc Phee ZK-MRV RV6 S/No 20334 300 + hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument lighting |
<< instrument lighting >>
Gary,
I'm going to glue a strip of those little lights in a plastic tube over the
instrument panel. I got mine from a Western Autostore.
Gene cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
Wills) writes:
>
>On some race cars, the crankcase breathers are plumbed into the exhaust
>header collector. The fitting is angled so that exhaust flow tends to
create
>a slight vacuum. The oil fumes then burn in the exhaust. Would something
>like this be feasible on an A/C engine?
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4(wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Hi All,
It worked just fine on my Lycoming engine. I didn't even get a drip of
the hangar floor, anymore. :-)
There were some fire attributed to this type of installation on Long
Ez's. They added a one way pressure valve in the line to the exhaust
pipe.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
writes:
(Snip)
>Right now my vent line runs out the bottom of my cowl and the oil runs
down the
>belly of my plane.
(Snip)
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
Hi All,
The Bakrsfield solution works very well. Place the end of the vent tube
directly over an exhaust pipe. :-)
Don't laugh, it works. You'll get one drop of oil off of the exhaust
pipe in the hangar.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Malone" <mmalane(at)dialus.com> |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
Ready for avionics panel. I have talked with several avionics shops
about a panel for RV6A. One shop indicated it would probably not be
possible to have a RV6A IFR certified because it was not constructed
according to Part 43. Does anyone have a IFR certified RV6A? Has
anyone had a problem with FISDO in getting RV6A certified?
Mark Malone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Planner |
I used TurboCad, and made up templates of each instrument, switch and
gauge, then taped them to a cardboard template of the panel. We sat in
the plane, and moved those things around for a week, and feel we got
everything about as perfect as possible.
If you've got TurboCad, I can send you the template files...
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)hcds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
<3359D578.571F(at)egyptian.net> <19970420.211411.14375.0.GASobek(at)juno.com>
Gary A. Sobek wrote:
>
> Years ago when I worked on Military Radar equipment, we used bee's wax or
> DoAll on the threads of our Stainless steel screws where they go into
> nutplates.
I have been using boelube that I bought from Avery. Works great. The
screws go in real easy with no stripping of the heads.
Gary Zilik
rv-6A s/n 22993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Planner |
<< Does anyone know of another software package or Panel
Planners phone no. so I can call MFG direct? >>
Check the Yeller Pages at http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm.
They are also linked from http://www.vansaircraft.com
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Denny,
I had a friend of mine with an RV-4 crack 2 canopys while drilling them up
(I wont mention any names). The second one had a 8 inch crack from one of the
mounting holes. He decided to give it up and live with the crack, and stop
drill it.
I dont know if this is a flying airplane your talking about or a new one. I
would never consider installing a broken canopy on a new airplane. Any way I
offered to drill this friends next canopy if he would buy a new one. I did
and it worked out fine.( He was very happy)
When you think about all the time effort and money that goes into one of
these airplanes, it would be ashamed to let a few hundred bucks and a little
extra effort get in the way of finishing it off right.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Lewman <lewman(at)wt.net> |
Mark,
I don't know their phone number off hand, but try
http://members.aol.com/interacsol/panlplnr.html
Jim Lewman
Houston, Texas
lewman(at)wt.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L & M Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
>
>the
>video showing assembly of an O-320 from parts.
>Skyward Tech seems to be related to Mattituck, the engine overhauller.
>I spoke to one of the staff at Mattituck today who said that the video
>had just been completed with early sales at Sun'n'Fun.
>
>ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
>
>
Do they produce it in PAL format?
Regards Les Rowles.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Remember that some frequencies will cause your GPS some grief. If you are flying
in, about or
around the following - you may loose signal for a short time and then have to reboot
after a
while. Doesn't do much good to re-boot when over the ground source.
121.125
.15
.20
.225
.250
.75
131.20
.225
.25
.275
.3
.325
.350
Saw some of this about 2 years ago. Called II Morrow and they gave all of the
rest. I taped the
list to my hand held to lower the heartburn. My understanding is the FAA is trying
to delete
these frequencies but it will take a long time.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
Mike Wills wrote:
On some race cars, the crankcase breathers are plumbed into the exhaust
> header collector. The fitting is angled so that exhaust flow tends to create
> a slight vacuum. The oil fumes then burn in the exhaust. Would something
> like this be feasible on an A/C engine? -------------------------------
Mike, good thought but might not be too useful. IMHO only and not offered as a
flame.
These systems are usually used in conjunction with a dykes style compression ring.
It is an
extremely low tension "L" shaped ring (frees up friction horsepower loss). The
rings are very
compliant and will easily conform (or deform) to bore irregularities. On the down
stroke the
combustion pressure forces the low tension ring against the side wall and sealing
is not a
problem. The vac systems are designed to maintain a constant vacuum in the crankcase
because the
Dykes ring needs the crankcase vacuum to seal and maintain "slight" oil control
on the UP stroke.
There is a double check valve and it takes a little more to the system than plumbing
the tube
into the exhaust. They still pump oil out the exhaust. You don't see it on a car
because the
headders are usually pointed away from the body. The design objective it to apply
a vacuum to the
crankcase.
Aircraft rings are different and would not benefit. It will add more complexity
and weight. Your
engine is not sealed vacuum tight and plumbing to the exhaust would still coat
the belly just
like every Cessna and Piper. A puke can (with colator) seems the simplest.
Also Mike, I'll write you about that spread sheet off-list. :-)
Thank you for the idea,
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
Hello Tom,
Just to confirm; You plumb into exhaust, or drip vent on exhaust pipe?
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q
rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
>
>Ready for avionics panel. I have talked with several avionics shops
>about a panel for RV6A. One shop indicated it would probably not be
>possible to have a RV6A IFR certified because it was not constructed
>according to Part 43. Does anyone have a IFR certified RV6A? Has
>anyone had a problem with FISDO in getting RV6A certified?
>
>Mark Malone
>
Mark:
This subject has been thrashed several times on the list so a trip through
the archives might be a good place to refer to. Having said that, you may
have your avionics shop read FAR 43.1 (B) which states "This part does not
apply to any aircraft for which an experimental airworthiness certificate
has been issued, unless a different kind of airworthiness certificate had
previously been issued for that aircraft."
Furthermore there are a number of people on the "List" that have
authorization to conduct IFR flight in their RV's, mine included. You equip
your aircraft for it, inspect it according to the FAR's (basically the
bi-annual staic and transponder tests), ask for it when your aircraft is
inspected and you can do it. Nothing to it if you follow the rules.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
I have a question concerning the 2 piece bulkheads in the RV-4 fuselage.
When assembling these, my first inclination was to simply align the tooling
holes, and hammer them together. I decided to be a little more scientific,
however, and began using the drawing that showed the lofting of the
individual bulkheads. When using these measurements, there were several
bulkheads where the tooling holes did not line up, sometimes by as much a
3/8". I went ahead and drilled the bulkheads, and "tacked" them together.
I am beginning to wonder if I did the right thing. Any advice from RV-4
builders past this point would be greatly appreciated.
Joe Rex
RV-4 Fuselage-ready to build jig?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott M. Kuebler" <keebs(at)buffnet.net> |
| Subject: | Begining Empanage! |
Hello all,
I'm just getting done setting up my shop and I'm about to begin building
the empanage. I've read through the manual and looked over the drawings
and everything seems self-explainitory for the horizontal stabilizer
section. I was just wondering if there were any 'starting-out' tips, or
things to look out for, etc. that I should be aware of.
Thanks in advance,
really excited,
Scott K.
RV-6, Horz. Stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Mark,
I suggest you go to another avionics shop that knows what they
are talking about. There is NOTHING in the FAR's that prohibit
and experimental class aircraft from operating IFR. I routinely fly
IFR in my -6A......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Ready for avionics panel. I have talked with several avionics shops
>about a panel for RV6A. One shop indicated it would probably not be
>possible to have a RV6A IFR certified because it was not constructed
>according to Part 43. Does anyone have a IFR certified RV6A? Has
>anyone had a problem with FISDO in getting RV6A certified?
>
>Mark Malone
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
I know a guy who used to clean his Cherokee 180 with Pledge.
He liked it too, until, it came time to paint his plane. You see, Pledge
has SILICONE in it. From what this guy says, his painter had a
VERY difficult time because of the Silicone residue all over the
plane........
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
><103126.3212(at)CompuServe.COM>
>
>Been cleaning my windshields with pledge since 1952 when I was crop
>dusting. BUT
>I use 409 on the leading edge of the wings. Both work good. Hope I can
>keep it
>up for another 45 years. Dar RV 6QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard_Smith(at)brahms2.tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
Do we collectively really think it is agood idea to dump the condensate
that drops out of the crankcase blowby back into the clean oil. This
effluent contains water, fuel residues, varnish, hydrocarbon light ends,
smoke particles and anything else that boiled off the oil as it heated up.
If you collect it in a bottle and examined it you would not want to put it
in the engine. On my 180hp-6 the breather tube outlet is positioned
approximately 3/8" above the center exhaust pipe 3" from the end. The
belly has stayed dry even during the break-in period when there was a lot
of blowby so it apparently works in burning off the residue. The idea of
having it plumbed into the exhaust sounds even better for the people with
stainless welding capabilities.
Does anyone know of a full swivel, lockable tailwheel for RVs similar to
the Haig model-$$ that is seen on Eagles & Pitts. When used, the steering
arm, chains, springs and connector links can be thrown in the trash. This
should aerodynamically really clean up that part of the airplane and
eliminate a ground loop waiting to happen due to failures of these parts.
Jim Ayres, don't you have a homebuilt version of one on your -3? Is it
worth it? Notice any drag reduction? Just how fast is that red LOM powered
-3?
-6 Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.Dieck/T.J.Dieck" <dieck(at)dwave.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Planner |
Larry D. Hoatson wrote:
> If you've got TurboCad, I can send you the template files...
>
> Larry
--
Larry, Tried to email you privately but it was returned. Please send me
your panel files and you email address.
Thank you,
Bob
The Airplane Factory
Robert & Tammie Dieck
Wausau WI USA
dieck(at)dwave.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
Mark,
I just checked into this whole subject. My airworthyness certificate says
nothing about VFR or IFR certified. The letter the FAA gave me describes
two phases, Phase I is the test phase (no passangers, 25hrs within
25mi...), then Phase II simply states VFR day only if not equipped for
night flight, VFR night/instrument if so equipped. The FAR's list the
required equipment for each type of flying (Part 91) AND to fly instrument
flight plans the FAR also describes what additional certification must be
preformed. Namely, a static system test, an altimeter check, and Mode C
check within the past 24 months by a certified avionics shop. A yellow
tag will suffice for the beginning date but I just had the local avionics
shop preform all three test for $150 and they made the appropiate entries
in my AC log. Also you are still required to do the VOR check every 30
days as described in the FAR's.
I installed an ILS/marker beacon since I feel this is
absolutely necessary but is not required in the FAR's. There's no way a
novice instrument pilot like myself should be trying to fly VOR instrument
approaches in actual conditions w/o an ILS to back him up (IMHO).
My II Morrow GPS is really great! 175 hrs so far w/o problems but it is
not IFR certified and I cannot use it for approaches (guess what I'm
looking at though when I'm in the soup before I get on the glide slope!)
BTW-I'm sorry to hear about all the problems with the Garmin units. A
little of this kind of bad press could really hurt them. I'm wondering
about the voltage situation the unit was subjected to.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Pop rivets and push pull tubes?? |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> QUESTION 2: How does the static air pop rivet thing happen? I didn't
> understand the doc.
You just pick out the place you want the static inlet and drill
a #30 hole and pop it in, then take a 1/16" punch and drive out what is
left of the mandrel to the inside of the fuselage. Then attach the tube
that is furnished to the inside of the pop rivet. Use a little RTV to
glue the tube to the rivet.
Hope this helps.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap,TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wesley T Robinson <wesleyt(at)twave.net> |
Quick question to the list.
I am getting ready to seal the tanks on my RV-6A and was wondering if
automotive gasoline is compatable with Proseal?
Wesley
RV-6A Finishing Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
>> No flame intended , but , do you receive any kitplane magazines? If you
do, I would think that ACS's advertising department would want to talk to
you to find out how you could ignore their ads, as they are only the
biggest supplier of kitplane materials on the planet.
You really need to get some more information if you are going to build a
safe plane. I would recommend contacting EAA and buying some of the Tony
Bingelis books to get some starting info.<<
No flame taken pal, but keep in mind, I don't think Aircraft Spruce
advertises advertises themselves as ACS. I know it doesn't say that on the
cover of their catalog, which of course I already have. Trust me on this,
a person doesn't contemplate building a $50K airplane without having done
some reading. I just hadn't ever heard of Aircraft Spruce referred to as
ACS.
Thanks for the advice though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
<< both my manifold pressure gauge and vacuum gauge
have two connections. One is marked P and the other V.
They both have these markings. What does P and V stand
for? >>
Cheryl-
1. If you want to measure vacuum connect to the V port and connect the other
port to the static source (or vent to the cabin for slightly less accuracy).
2. Alternately, if you want to measure pressure connect to the P port and
connect the other port to the static source.
For the MP and gyro vacuum systems connect IAW #1.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Ryan, Thanks. I told him I would inquire, although I personally didn't
think it was possible and have look good. It is a brand new QB 6, he hasn't
had any experience in building and is finding it very difficult starting in
the middle of the project with nothing to draw on. He's learning some hard
lessons, as most of us have, but he doing good overall (re) work, (as most
of us have).
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerzy S.Krasinski" <krasins(at)master.ceat.okstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Grounding shielded wires |
The story I heard was that the strap connections prevent the hinges from
beeing welded in case of a lightning strike. I have never seen this
argument written anywhere.
The noise advantage is probably low due to contacts through the hinges.
Jerzy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
<< I've found that putting a very
small amount of soap on the threads lubricates them enough to take some
of the torque off of them. >>
Don't use soap. It attracts moisture and will corrode off the protective
plating. Some soaps are fine but none of the common ones found around the
house. There are some lithium base soaps used in the production of
lubrication grease.
The idea of bee's wax has merit. By the way, those sealing wax rings that go
under the toilet base are a cheap, easy source of bee's wax.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Planner |
Larry,
I'm not familiar with Turbocad but have access to Autocad release 12. Does
Turbocad support DXF format output files so users of other cad packages
could take advantage of your hard work and generosity?
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>If you've got TurboCad, I can send you the template files...
>
>Larry
>--
>Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
>
>lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aymar-Demuth Prop. |
>
>Anyone had experience with Aymar-Demuth propellers?
>>Phil Rogerson
>6AQ 60057
>Fernandina Beach, FL
>
Phil,
I have an Aymar-Demuth prop on my RV-6. 150 hours of flight and it
is everything that it's supposed to be.
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
Scott, I'm at the same place you are in building (maybe 2 days ahead) and
things are pretty straightforward. One thing I did not do initially and
that was to sort out all the small brown bags and their contents.
Yesturday, I went through them all and seperated them into bins for easy
reference, it makes things much easier. My biggest problem so far has been
in priming. I spent some time with it last night and it didn't go well.
Mostly my own fault but, nonetheless, it's messy and time consuming if you
only have a small batch of parts to do. Future primings will be done with
much bigger lots.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Thanks Al sonic was the work I was looking for. And I will check into that.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
<< have a question concerning the 2 piece bulkheads in the RV-4 fuselage.
When assembling these, my first inclination was to simply align the tooling
holes, and hammer them together.
snip
I am beginning to wonder if I did the right thing. Any advice from RV-4
builders past this point would be greatly appreciated.
Joe Rex
RV-4 Fuselage-ready to build jig? >>
As it so happens, I have a LARGE opinion on this subject, after building 7 of
these things. It depends on if you want a smooth fuse or not. Email me off
the list, as the explanation (how to fix) is a bit detailed.
My soap box is ready....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
Joe
If I where doing it again (and I probably will). I would hold them together
temporarily with clamps or a cleco or 2 during the jiging, that way once the
fuse is removed from the jig you can adjust the upper halfs for a better fit.
I.E. using an alignment string you can move them up down or side to side a
little bit. The tooling holes are what I used on mine also I ended up having
to remove the upper half of the 404 bulkhead and move it up quite a bit. Not
to mention quite a bit of shimming in other places.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Al,
Thanks again for the response, do you know where I could find one of these
sonic cleaners?
Ryan B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
>...I was just wondering if there were any 'starting-out' tips, or
> things to look out for, etc. that I should be aware of.
There are "gotchas" all through the project. But never fear, most of
them can be avoided by getting "Frank Justice's Supplemental
instructions", available on the web at
http://rv.austin.apple.com/jhovan/home.html.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator - how an AI screws up. |
One of you wrote:
> Do we collectively really think it is agood idea to dump the condensate
> that drops out of the crankcase blowby back into the clean oil.
I had a professional, rated AI and A&P re-plumb my Deb's wet vacuum pump and
some other stuff after an engine overhaul. He hooked the air oil separator up
so that the oil line went out under the cowl which is a very effective way of
undoing what the separator just did. Maybe he was concerned to keep my oil
clean.
When I inspected after my first hour of break in flight there was at least a
quart of oil on the underside! Imagine my worst fears!
He was a pretty good mechanic but he had an old claw hammer with one claw
missing that he used where I would have felt much better had he used a
ball-pein. He just had never seen a wet pump before.
I like the wet pump, it lasts forever and fails very slowly.
If you need an air oil separator on the crankcase vent line, you might consider
a top overhaul or a full one if oil pressure is low.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
Cheryl,
I believe thats pressure and vent. The manifold gage and the vacum should
only require hook up to the P side. The vent remains open. Some vacum gages
are S and V for suction and vent, others have one port with a P.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Planner Software |
Someone asked for information regarding a source of the Panel Planner
software. I deleted the original message, but I have the software.
It's a little buggy, but gets the job done fairly well.
You can contact the source at:
Interactive Solutions, Inc.
8659 Atwater Ave.
Boise, ID 83714
Phone: (208) 323-8724
Fax: (208) 939-8901
E-mail: interacsol(at)aol.com
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <joe(at)flnet.com> |
Does anyone know what drawing and where I can find the aileron travel stop.
I have the pre punch kit. TU
Joe/Aileron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Ryan,
I dont know about the dental cleaner that was referred to previously, but
ultrasonic cleaners are available from tool suppliers to the electronics
industry. I have one here at work we use to clean small circuit boards,
connectors, etc... Dont have any price info available, but you could try
Jensen Tools at 800-366-9662.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Al,
> Thanks again for the response, do you know where I could find one of these
>sonic cleaners?
> Ryan B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
Scott M. Kuebler wrote:
>
> I was just wondering if there were any 'starting-out' tips, or
> things to look out for, etc. that I should be aware of.
Scott, one common mistake I've heard during construction is for a
builder to butt the rear spar channels together without aligning the
centerlines. It seems reasonable enough to want a tight joint, but the
critical thing is to make sure the centerline is straight along the
entire spar, even if there is a gap at the center. This mistake is
typical of not understanding what is required of the assembly. Many
mistakes can be avoided if you clearly understand what each component
does; this includes looking ahead on the plan sheets. Some of the
empennage attach details are found on the fuselage sheets but will help
explain matters for the empennage construction. This makes it very
desireable to have the preview plans.
Nobody is perfect. I just had to redrill the inner flap rib for the
pop-rivets I SHOULD have planned for, instead of the AN4263 rivets I
thought should go there. When I finally noticed that I wouldn't be able
to reach them to buck, I looked at the plans and G.O.'s video again.
Fortunately, this was an easy fix.
Best confidence builder is to get someone experienced to help you in the
early stages. They will show you what is acceptable, and what errors
can be fixed and how. Many errors can be corrected, but you will need
some expert guidance on which those are, and how.
Good luck, and enjoy your project.
PatK - RV-6A - Left flap and aileron complete, preparing to finish wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
>
> both my manifold pressure gauge and vacuum gauge
> have two connections. One is marked P and the other V.
> They both have these markings. What does P and V stand
> for? How do I hook them up. Thanks.
P stands for Pressure. V stands for Volume. Hook it up so that P is connected
to Pressure
and V is connected to Vacuum.
Don't hook them together - they are totally unrelated.
If you have a vacuum pump, hook the sucking port to V on the suction gage. Hook
the
manifold pressure line from the engine to the manifold pressure gage. I don't
know how
they mark it but manifold pressure is really a vacuum relative to free air. That
is, it
doesn't blow, it sucks.
If it doesn't work this way, turn it around. Some advice, huh? But no one else
has
answered and my advice is free!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>Quick question to the list.
>I am getting ready to seal the tanks on my RV-6A and was wondering if
>automotive gasoline is compatable with Proseal?
>
>Wesley
>RV-6A Finishing Wings
I know several RV-ers that told me they are burning auto gas and they used
ProSeal.
denny h. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
>
>required equipment for each type of flying (Part 91) AND to fly instrument
>flight plans the FAR also describes what additional certification must be
>preformed. Namely, a static system test, an altimeter check, and Mode C
>check within the past 24 months by a certified avionics shop. A yellow
>tag will suffice for the beginning date but I just had the local avionics
>shop preform all three test for $150 and they made the appropiate entries
>in my AC log. Also you are still required to do the VOR check every 30
>days as described in the FAR's.
I was researching this subject recently while considering the purchase of a
Microencoder. In the FAR's it says the "manufacturer" may do the checks.
That sounds like me to me. This makes the Microencoder attractive because
I will know how to calibrate it. All that remains is a good calibration
setup, which I know from glider days is not so difficult to come up with.
Dan. Come down to Carlsbad sometime. I'll show you thru the Caverns and
you can show me your 4.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM 88221
Pacer N8025D
RV-6QME Trim Tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jddyess(at)crystal.cirrus.com (J D Dyess) |
Well, I still haven't ordered my -8 tail kit. Looks
like I'm a few months behind before I even start!
I'm changing jobs this week so I'm unsubscribing until
I get my home PC set up. Hope to be back with y'all
in a couple of weeks.
Regards,
J.D. Dyess (RV-8 wannabe)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aymar-Demuth Prop. |
What is the current VAN's web site address. CAN't seem to get the link that
most pages point to to respond.
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I am getting ready to seal the tanks on my RV-6A and was wondering if
automotive gasoline is compatable with Proseal?
>>
Compatible? Mogas won't bother the stuff. Heck, I'm not sure anything short
of some type of abrasive will take that stuff off. Maybe a nuclear strength
thinner compound, or a chisel & hammer.
Did you get the B4 (4 hr) or the B2 (2hr) type?
PLEASE! Don't slosh the things when you get done! All sorts of headaches
available after doing the slosh routine.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A riddle. Not RV related (Chatter) |
John Ammeter wrote:
>
> >You have a grey elephant from Denmark.
> >How do you like that?
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> ><---- End Forwarded Message ---->
> >
> >
> >
> >
> What does brown ocelot from Dominican Republic eat?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
Hello Scott,
1. Find secure safe place for your big skins...sheet metal flies when
exposed to the wind when you open your garage door. They bend when you/kids
kick them.
2. Hesitate to use the power tools. Use the files and sand paper to build
up a feel for the way aluminum works.
3. I find that verifying my measurements three different ways (on critical
stuff), at least initially trains me for the patience and accuracy I need to
avoid the 'oops' factor.
4. When receiving conflicting info on how to do something, go to VAN's for
final word.
5. George Orndorf videos are helpful, though dated. You do gain
appreciation for pre punched skins, and other improvements in newer kits.
6. PRACTICE ON SCRAP BEFORE WORKING ON THE KIT!!! Gain feel for your tools.
7. Paint logistics is still my problem. I am using Dupont Brand Aluminum
Prep for corrosion and TEMPO Zinc Chromate for primer. Why? I put the prep
solutions in two plastic spray bottles I bought from WalMart and use
accordingly and the TEMPO comes in spray cans. I feel I have maximized
corrosion/primer protection with minimum of hassle. Especially with
internal pieces. The degree of corrosion protection recommendations runs
from minimalist to completely anal. I will follow the plans with maybe a
little extra.
8. Fluting turned out to not be the big deal I was afraid it would be.
9. I found to be the biggest time saver and help the fact I bought a
complete tool kit from Avery's, though I understand Cleveland's to be as
good. You might order extra the file set and the double sided deburring
tool. I was surprised at how useful the Vixen file turned out to be.
10. Scotch Brite wheel nice but as a beginner I tend to overdo it, and I
still wound up using emery paper and sandpaper to get the Satin look.
11. Another Big problem is that I don't have a color poster of the RV-8 to
show people when they want to know what it is going to look like.
12. And finally, don't forget that your objective is to build an airplane.
Obvious but I continually find myself off on some tangent that really
violates the objective and I have to say to myself, "Focus Vince!". Perfect
example is spending inordinate amounts of time/money/mental energy on the
perfect empenage jig (which will be torn down after the wings are built). I
used standard 4x4's and followed the plans.
Hope this helps!
Vince Himsl
RV-8 Tail
>
>Hello all,
>I'm just getting done setting up my shop and I'm about to begin building
>the empanage. I've read through the manual and looked over the drawings
>.....
>Scott K.
>RV-6, Horz. Stab.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | RVList Humor - delete if you want! |
I couldn't help it. Someone forwarded this to me and if you've been on
the RV list for more than a year or so you'll see why I was laughing out
loud...
-Mike
Pro-sealing left tank
> >
> >Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take to change a
> light
> > bulb?
> >
> > A: 1,331:
> > 1 to change the light bulb and to post to the mail
> > list that the light bulb has been changed
> > 14 to share similar experiences of changing light
> > bulbs and how the light bulb could have been
> > changed differently.
> > 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs.
> > 27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about
> > changing light bulbs.
> > 53 to flame the spell checkers
> > 156 to write to the list administrator complaining about
> > the light bulb discussion and its inappropriateness
> > to this mail list.
> > 41 to correct spelling in the spelling/grammar flames.
> > 109 to post that this list is not about light bulbs and
> > to please take this email exchange to alt.lite.bulb
> > 203 to demand that cross posting to alt.grammar,
> > alt.spelling and alt.punctuation about changing
> > light bulbs be stopped.
> > 111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we
> > all use light bulbs and therefore the posts
> > **are** relevant to this mail list.
> > 306 to debate which method of changing light
> > bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs,
> > what brand of light bulbs work best for this
> > technique, and what brands are faulty.
> > 27 to post URLs where one can see examples of
> > different light bulbs
> > 14 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly, and
> > to post corrected URLs.
> > 3 to post about links they found from the URLs that
> > are relevant to this list which makes light bulbs
> > relevant to this list.
> > 33 to concatenate all posts to date, then quote
> > them including all headers and footers, and then
> > add "Me Too."
> > 12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing
> > because they cannot handle the light bulb
> > controversy.
> > 19 to quote the "Me Too's" to say, "Me Three."
> > 4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ.
> > 1 to propose new alt.change.lite.bulb newsgroup.
> > 47 to say this is just what alt.physic.cold_fusion
> > was meant for, leave it here.
> > 143 votes for alt.lite.bulb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
| Subject: | Acid resistant spray bottles. |
Thanks for the info. on the plastic. I have a few ounces of Dupont 620S s=
itting in an old Windex bottle going on 4 days now and it still works fine.=
620S is the "solvent" part of Veriprime which has the phosphoric acid in=
it. So, I guess I didn't have to look too far for a spray bottle....
John=20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Whistle stop |
For the "overboard" portion, I routed the hose to a 5/8" aluminum tube
(with a "whistle notch" in it) and dumped the fumes on the exhaust pipe.
OK, there's that thing again: "Whistle Stop". I understand it is to help
prevent the crankcase vent from blowing when it freezes; my question is:
where does it go?? In the hose? It sounds like it goes in the chunk of
tubing at the distal end of the hose. Pointing up? What does it look like?
A "V" shaped notch? Why a whistle stop and not a whistle hole?
My word.........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
..... the crankcase breathers are plumbed into the exhaust
>>header collector......
>I use this system on my RV-4 and it works very well, No oil on belly and no
>drips on the hangar floor. I got the idea from Larry Vetterman.
>
Tom: I talked to Larry a month or so ago and he is now frowning on the idea
as they have had problems with the installation. He now recommends just
dumping it on the exhaust ala the plans.
Ryan B: didn't you have this on your airplane??
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
TurboCad does support Autocads DXF exchanges. I use TurboCad
release 3 in my construction business, and exchange with engineers
all the time.
cgn(at)pond.net RV6 empennage starting next month
Eugene, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
z>
>
>My biggest problem so far has been
>in priming. I spent some time with it last night and it didn't go well.
>Mostly my own fault but, nonetheless, it's messy and time consuming if you
>only have a small batch of parts to do. Future primings will be done with
>much bigger lots.
Yeah, if you live in a suitable climate (I don't), it might be worthwhile
considering not priming parts... that would make building much quicker.
My building consists of cycles of fabricating (drill, deburr, dimple, cut,
file) as many parts as possible, followed by a polishing & priming session,
followed by assembly of the primed parts. Priming itself is a pain, with a
lot of setup & preparation time for not much painting. I don't have much
space... it would be much easier if I could leave everything set up. Mind
you, every painting session you end up throwing away a bit of paint (2-part
primer) and using cleaning materials, etc.
Frank (aiming to finish priming wing spar parts & assemble this weekend)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
>> Scott, one common mistake I've heard during construction is for a
builder to butt the rear spar channels together without aligning the
centerlines. It seems reasonable enough to want a tight joint, but the
critical thing is to make sure the centerline is straight along the
entire spar, even if there is a gap at the center. <<
Pat, this is a non issue with the PP Empennage assy. Basically you fit the
flange strips to the spar and file the flanges if necessary. Cleco it
together and finish drill. Not much to it really.
BTW, this is AFTER you finish drill the skins to the spar and dimple the
spar.
Mike Nellis "MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com" - Priming Empennage and riveting rear
spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | light bulbs (chatter) |
Disclaimer: :-) :-) :-) :-)
------------- Begin Forwarded Message -------------
Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take
to change a light bulb?
A: 1,331:
1 to change the light bulb and to post to the mail
list that the light bulb has been changed
14 to share similar experiences of changing light
bulbs and how the light bulb could have been
changed differently.
7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs.
27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about
changing light bulbs.
53 to flame the spell checkers
156 to write to the list administrator complaining about
the light bulb discussion and its inappropriateness
to this mail list.
41 to correct spelling in the spelling/grammar flames.
109 to post that this list is not about light bulbs and
to please take this email exchange to alt.lite.bulb
203 to demand that cross posting to alt.grammar,
alt.spelling and alt.punctuation about changing
light bulbs be stopped.
111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we
are all use light bulbs and therefore the posts
**are** relevant to this mail list.
306 to debate which method of changing light
bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs,
what brand of light bulbs work best for this
technique, and what brands are faulty.
27 to post URLs where one can see examples of
different light bulbs
14 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly, and
to post corrected URLs.
3 to post about links they found from the URLs that
are relevant to this list which makes light bulbs
relevant to this list.
33 to concatenate all posts to date, then quote
them including all headers and footers, and then
add "Me Too."
12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing
because they cannot handle the light bulb
controversey.
19 to quote the "Me Too's" to say, "Me Three."
4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ.
1 to propose new alt.change.lite.bulb newsgroup.
47 to say this is just what alt.physic.cold_fusion
was meant for, leave it here.
143 votes for alt.lite.bulb.
Submitted by: "Chicken Soprano" @ emu.edu
------------- End Forwarded Message -------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
Mark,
If you are going to respond off-list please copy me also. This is the kind
of stuff I'm on the list for.
Mike Wills
rv-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Email me off
>the list, as the explanation (how to fix) is a bit detailed.
>
>My soap box is ready....
>
>Check six!
>Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Gas tanks-"explosafe" |
RVers,
I received the message below and didn't know for sure what to do about it
so decided to pass it on for what it's worth. This is a first for me. I
was surprised that an overseas company was searching the RV-list.
It is in regard to a discussion on the list last November about
"explosafe" installation in fuel tanks. Some of you may be interested in
this product and what this company has to say. I don't think that I posted
erroneous information. My response was based on the things that I'd read on
this subject to that date.
Personally, I intend to build the tanks per plans---no "explosafe".
Following the company's message to me is a copy of the original post.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
**********
>Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 19:39:55 +0200 (MET DST)
>X-Sender: 00350002(at)mbox.it.net (Unverified)
>To: BSkinner(at)navix.net
>From: Gianluca Indovino <G.Indovino(at)Mbox.IT.net>
>Subject: Gas Tanks
>
>I was reading your notes on Explosafe on the RV-List of November 1996. We
>are the "Explosafe" patent owner and manufacturer. Your info on flop tubes
>pluggins and retention problems are not correc; maybe those info are
>regarding some "Explosafe" imitations traded under different marks as
>Texoga, Deto-Stop, Expo-control, etc.
>
>We are manufacturing our product accordind to U.S. MIL-SPEC MIL-B-87162A
>(USAF), and we supply our product also in airborne applications. I shall be
>please to give you further details if interested.
>
>Regards.
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Gianluca Indovino Phone: +39-6-87134421
>SAFETY HI-TECH S.r.l. Fax: +39-6-87132683
>Viale Gino Cervi, 14 E-Mail: Safety.HiTech(at)PN.ITnet.it
>I-00139 Rome (Italy) WWW: http://www.nafgt.com
>_________________________________________________________
***********
>Regarding fuel tanks fire hazard reduction:
>
>> I think this is called 'explo-proof' or some such thing.
>> A word of caution. DO NOT use this if you have a flop tube in your
>> tank (for aerobatics).
>
>It's called "Explosafe", if I remember correctly from my motorcycle
>road racing days. It works very well in cars and bikes -- always
>wondered why you never hear about it in aircraft. Maybe it was
>the incompatability with flop tubes!
>
>Cal
There was a problem with the "Explosafe" degrading into tiny little pieces
and plugging up filters. There may have been a water retention problem, as
well. One article that I read said that it worked but they recommended that
the material be replaced on a perodic basis. The original post on the
subject may be talking about a new product that accomplishes the same thing
as "Explosafe" without the drawbacks.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
brahms2.tivoli.com!Richard_Smith(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>Does anyone know of a full swivel, lockable tailwheel for RVs similar to
>the Haig model-$$ that is seen on Eagles & Pitts. When used, the
steering
>arm, chains, springs and connector links can be thrown in the trash.
This
>should aerodynamically really clean up that part of the airplane and
>eliminate a ground loop waiting to happen due to failures of these
parts.
> Jim Ayres, don't you have a homebuilt version of one on your -3? Is it
>worth it? Notice any drag reduction? Just how fast is that red LOM
powered
>-3?
>-6 Rick
>
Hello All,
I have a full swivel locking tail wheel (based on Van's hardware). I
made the locking mechanism parts using a band saw and a drill press.
I ran a single 1/16" cable to the cockpit to lock/unlock the tail wheel.
I normally lock the tailwheel as I turn to line up on the runway, and
unlock it to turn off the runway.
I also do not have rudder cables on the outside of the fuselage.
I built my RV-3 that way, so I don't know how much I gained.
A while ago I was asked to share what has worked out on my RV-3 for drag
reduction, but I really didn't know where to start.
I made trailing edges for the elevator root ribs. I didn't see any drag
reduction, but they gave the elevator a "finished" look, so I left them
on.
I replaced my 22.75" long $3 COM antenna on the top of the vertical
stabilizer with Bob Archer's (Sportcraft) VS COM antenna, which is only
10" high (1/2 the drag).
I decided I don't know where to measure how fast my RV-3 is. I've been
trying to get performance variations under the same conditions, which is
different than finding out how fast can it go.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
>
> << have a question concerning the 2 piece bulkheads in the RV-4 fuselage.
> When assembling these, my first inclination was to simply align the tooling
> holes, and hammer them together.
> snip
> I am beginning to wonder if I did the right thing. Any advice from RV-4
> builders past this point would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Joe Rex
> RV-4 Fuselage-ready to build jig? >>
>
> As it so happens, I have a LARGE opinion on this subject, after building 7 of
> these things. It depends on if you want a smooth fuse or not. Email me off
> the list, as the explanation (how to fix) is a bit detailed.
>
> My soap box is ready....
>
> Check six!
> Mark
Mark,
Please be so kind as to email me a copy of your reply to the above
problem. I'd like to save it (your reply) to disk (I do this a lot so
that I'll have the info handy when I need it). Thanks
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Items For Sale... |
Hello everybody,
I have a few of unused components from my RV-4 kit that I would really like to
sell. All are in new, unused condition from my circa 1988 RV-4 finish kit.
I'm willing to ship anywhere in the US for the cost of actual shipping. No
charge to crate/box as required.
Finish Kit:
1ea RV-4 O320 Cowling
Top and bottom pieces including inlets.
Vans:$340 Sell:$200
1ea RV-4 Dynafocal Engine Mount & L+R Gear Legs
Not predrilled.
Vans:$882 Sell:$600
Other:
1ea IIMorrow 618TCA Panel Mount Loran C
New, never used. Includes complete airport database,
mounting kit, and antenna.
New:$1400 Sell:$600
Drop me an email if you're interested in any of these components. I can accept
M/C or Visa for the purchase if you would like.
Matt Dralle
dralle(at)matronics.com
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A riddle. Not RV related (Chatter) |
John Ammeter wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >You have a grey elephant from Denmark.
> >How do you like that?
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> ><---- End Forwarded Message ---->
> >
> >
> >
> >
> John Ammeter
> ammeterj(at)seanet.com
> 3233 NE 95th St
> Seattle WA, 98115 USA
> 206-525-5445
> RV-6 N16JA
> First flight August 1990
Sorry John, I had an orange orangutan from the Dominican Republic.
I just had to be diffrent.
craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | tachometers, engine gauges? |
I was planning on getting a UMA tachometer but based on experiences of
people on this list as well as others I guess I won't. Any recommended
alternatives? I am specifically looking for an electronic, with analog
readout, i.e. a REAL NEEDLE not one of those LCD or LED displays that
simulate analog, and preferably 2 1/4" dia. The MICRO-1000 series stuff
in ACS looks promising, but their application chart only lists ROTAX,
etc. Anyone ever used those?
Also I was thinking of using those square, gangable Mitchell gauges sold
in ACS for oil press/temp and amps/volts. Any comments from anyone who
has had experience with these (good or bad)?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: A riddle. Not RV related (Chatter) |
Hi John,
Wrong! I had a brown eagle from Denmark!
How is it going? Hope everything is great with you.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Want an extra hour and a half of energy per day with Super Blue
Green products? Email for info or call 800-325-7544 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Locking Tailwheel |
>
>
Does anyone know of a full swivel, lockable tailwheel for RVs similar to
>the Haig model-$$ that is seen on Eagles & Pitts. When used, the steering
>arm, chains, springs and connector links can be thrown in the trash. This
>should aerodynamically really clean up that part of the airplane and
>eliminate a ground loop waiting to happen due to failures of these parts.
> Jim Ayres, don't you have a homebuilt version of one on your -3? Is it
>worth it? Notice any drag reduction? Just how fast is that red LOM powered
>-3?
>-6 Rick
>
I just finished welding up a tailwheel locking device. It reduces the amount
of odds and ends in the airstream. If there is interest I will try to get
pictures on a website somewhere.
The lock will be controlled with a device that will engage when the stick
is full forward. This is similar to some WW2 types. The taildragger Glasairs
have locking tailwheels. Does anybody know how they are set up?
I asked another member on this list for some info on what he did but never
heard back. Perhaps the electrons got waylaid and he will respond now.
David Fried
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darwin Esh <103126.3212(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Joe
The aileron stop is shown on drawing # 16 left side half down.
Dar QB 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air/oil separator |
>
>Mike Wills wrote:
> On some race cars, the crankcase breathers are plumbed into the exhaust
>> header collector. The fitting is angled so that exhaust flow tends to create
>> a slight vacuum. The oil fumes then burn in the exhaust. Would something
>> like this be feasible on an A/C engine? -------------------------------
>
>Mike, good thought but might not be too useful. IMHO only and not offered
as a flame.
>
>These systems are usually used in conjunction with a dykes style
compression ring. It is an
>extremely low tension "L" shaped ring (frees up friction horsepower loss).
The rings are very
>compliant and will easily conform (or deform) to bore irregularities. On
the down stroke the
>combustion pressure forces the low tension ring against the side wall and
sealing is not a
>problem. The vac systems are designed to maintain a constant vacuum in the
crankcase because the
>Dykes ring needs the crankcase vacuum to seal and maintain "slight" oil
control on the UP stroke.
>There is a double check valve and it takes a little more to the system than
plumbing the tube
>into the exhaust. They still pump oil out the exhaust. You don't see it on
a car because the
>headders are usually pointed away from the body. The design objective it to
apply a vacuum to the
>crankcase.
>
>Aircraft rings are different and would not benefit. It will add more
complexity and weight. Your
>engine is not sealed vacuum tight and plumbing to the exhaust would still
coat the belly just
>like every Cessna and Piper. A puke can (with colator) seems the simplest.
>
>Also Mike, I'll write you about that spread sheet off-list. :-)
>
>Thank you for the idea,
>Elon
>
>
>
Elon, try you might like it , I do. it is cheap and works
tom martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
Tipp1: You can't screw up the empennage so badly it isn't fixable at very
low cost. You'll learn alot. Ask us questions at every turn.
Tip 2: Go for it!
Tip 3: Have fun!
J Scholl
RV6 Wings
bcg007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)konza.flinthills.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Planner |
>
>Ready for avionics panel. Need software to layout panel prior to
>fabrication. Found Panel Planner software in Jetstream catalog but is
>on back order. Does anyone know of another software package or Panel
>Planners phone no. so I can call MFG direct?
>
>Mark,
Their phone # is 208-323-8724
fax 208-939-8901
e-mail interacsol(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Piper Blade Pitot Tube |
I've searched the archives and I still have a few unanswered questions so I
need to go where others have undoubtedly gone before. I recently purchased a
Piper Blade Heated Pitot tube from a salvage yard. The heating element is
gone but I've flown 10 years and 1500 hours without pitot heat so don't
figure this is an issue. For thirty bucks it simply looks better than Van's
unit in my opinion. My questions are:
(1) Van's pitot opening is 14 inches from the leading edge. An Arrow
on the field with a blade pitot has its placed 29 inches from the leading
edge. Any suggestions on placement considering the blade is only 4 inches
long and Van's is 6-7? Accuracy is a big issue.
(2) The blade has a static opening, do you suggest plumbing this? One
builder says he plugged his up.
(3) If I simply use a 3"x3" .040 skin doubler with nutplates will this
be sufficient or do I need to tie in a mounting bracket for strength?
(4) Is there some type of flexible tubing recommended that would be
durable and easy to install that would connect the tube with the guage?
Thanks in advance, IT'S APPRECIATED!
Rob Miller
RV-8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)konza.flinthills.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron stop |
>
>Does anyone know what drawing and where I can find the aileron travel stop.
> I have the pre punch kit. TU
>
>Joe/Aileron
>
>Joe,
Assuming you are building an RV4, it is on DWG 14. Look for the
underlined section called INBOARD AILERON MOUNT-RIGHT SIDE SHOWN FULL SCALE.
It is the square in dotted lines that have an arrow going to it that says
flush on push rod side.
Tim Sweemer
RV4
skinning 2nd wing fuse on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> both my manifold pressure gauge and vacuum gauge
>have two connections. One is marked P and the other V.
>They both have these markings. What does P and V stand
>for? How do I hook them up. Thanks.
Hi Cheryl. Let's see, your manifold PRESSURE gauge and your VACUUM gauge
have a "P" and a "V" on them... Hmm, I wonder what that could mean...
:-)
Sorry, I couldn't resist, no flame intended, just my feeble attempt at a
joke. I hooked my manifold pressure gauge up with 1/8" copper tubing to
the #3 primer port on my engine, and to the "V" (vacuum) port on the
gauge. I didn't use a vacuum pump, so I'm not sure exactly, but I would
imagine the "V" hooks up to the pump and the "P" isn't used.
I don't know for sure, but I think the reason there are two ports is that
the back is generic and used for different instruments? I've always
wondered why there isn't any documentation with this stuff.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
>> My building consists of cycles of fabricating (drill, deburr, dimple,
cut,
file) as many parts as possible, followed by a polishing & priming session,
followed by assembly of the primed parts. Priming itself is a pain, with a
lot of setup & preparation time for not much painting. I don't have much
space... it would be much easier if I could leave everything set up. Mind
you, every painting session you end up throwing away a bit of paint (2-part
primer) and using cleaning materials, etc. <<
You hit it right on the head as far as I'm concerned Frank. I've only had
one priming session but I can see that it will more time consuming that
what I had thought. I've decided to so the parts cleaning with PPG DX533
etching cleaner. I'm concerned about using it on the driveway and having
it eat away at the asphalt. Besides washing it down the driveway and it
will get at the edges of the grass and my wife goes crazy when the grass
dies. So whats left is to do it in the back yard where I've got some pea
gravel for landscaping. Wash it off and dilute what gets on the ground so
the dogs don't get at it. Actually, I'm thinking about building a small
workbench type device with sides and line it with something. Put a hole in
the bottom and let the water run into a bucket.
Naaaaaaa, like people say build the plane don't focus on the process :)Mike
Nellis "MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com" - Priming Empennage and riveting rear spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
My RV is IFR certified and I had no trouble at all with the FSDO. All you
have to do is check the proper box on the application for IFR certification.
The same goes for Aerobatics. You need to have TSO''d radios for your VOR
to be legal. You can install these yourself. Bill Benedict made the harness
for me when I bought the radio from Van's, which BTW, had the best price I
could find. You also need to have your altimeter and encoder checked by a
certified shop and have that noted in your aircraft logbook.
Jim Cone
RV-6A 929JC flying IFR
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
----------
I would love to take advantage of what you have learned about
optimizing the formers and skins. Please include me in your reply to
the group.
Thanks Hawkeye hawk(at)digisys.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
<< I believe that's pressure (P) and vent (V). The manifold gauge and the
vacuum
should only require hook-up to the P side. The vent remains open. Some
vacuum gauges are S and V for suction and vent, others have one port with a
P. >>
Ryan-
Man, do I feel like a nimrod. When I found the P port was actually the
vacuum port on my gauge, I just thought the factory goofed when they marked
it. I figured they had a 50% chance of getting it right, eh? Now it all
makes sense. Still, should the vent port go to static or just to cabin
source?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper Blade Pitot Tube |
If you are not going to make the pitot heat functional I would not intall
the Piper item. Van's pitot placement is carefully thought out and it seems
a lot of trouble to add extra weight for no functional gain
Leo Davies
>
>I've searched the archives and I still have a few unanswered questions so I
>need to go where others have undoubtedly gone before. I recently purchased a
>Piper Blade Heated Pitot tube from a salvage yard. The heating element is
>gone but I've flown 10 years and 1500 hours without pitot heat so don't
>figure this is an issue. For thirty bucks it simply looks better than Van's
>unit in my opinion. My questions are:
>
> (1) Van's pitot opening is 14 inches from the leading edge. An Arrow
>on the field with a blade pitot has its placed 29 inches from the leading
>edge. Any suggestions on placement considering the blade is only 4 inches
>long and Van's is 6-7? Accuracy is a big issue.
>
> (2) The blade has a static opening, do you suggest plumbing this? One
>builder says he plugged his up.
>
> (3) If I simply use a 3"x3" .040 skin doubler with nutplates will this
>be sufficient or do I need to tie in a mounting bracket for strength?
>
> (4) Is there some type of flexible tubing recommended that would be
>durable and easy to install that would connect the tube with the guage?
>
>Thanks in advance, IT'S APPRECIATED!
>
>Rob Miller
>RV-8 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | RV-4 Stick Movment... |
Hello everyone,
What is the minimum amount of travel for the front stick as measured at the
top of the stock, uncut control stick?
Down
Left Center Right
Up
I don't have any of the controls hooked up yet but I am fitting the stick grips
and if I put them where it is most comfortable for me, it looks like I have
about 5-6" (3" each way from center) of throw in both axis. Will this be
enough? The limiting factor in the Left/Right axis are my fat thighs - but in
the Up/Down axis its the instrument panel in the down and, well, you know, my
manhood in the Up... The stick itself clears the instument panel but with the
stick grip (cool pistol-style by Automatic Flagman) the stick is effectivly
about 1-2" taller.
Making the stick shorter would make my arm placement very uncomfortable.
Any thought's would be most apperciated.
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
April 17, 1997 - April 23, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ct