RV-Archive.digest.vol-cu
April 23, 1997 - - - - , 20-
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piper Blade Pitot Tube |
| From: | gasobek(at)juno.com (Gary A. Sobek) |
The Piper Blade Pitot tube works great on RV-4 N144RS. It has been
flying 5 years and is very accurate. Both the pitot and static are used
on this aircraft. It was placed 1 bay inboard from where Van's plans
call for it. It is much less suspectable to damage on the ground
compared to the standard tube. That is its main advantage. At fly ins,
all the RV types look all over the airplane and have been know to bump
the pitot tube and knock it out of alignment with the air flow. I did
this the first time I look under the wing on an RV. I did tell the
pilot, builder owner that I had bumped it.
The disadvantage of the Piper Blade Pitot is that this is something that
you need to buy in addition to the kit. It also needs a doubler of about
.040 like you discribed.
I recommend Nyloseal like Van uses on the brakes for pitot / static
installation. A friend at Pacific Southwest Instrument shop reports that
that is what they use on their bench and it leak tests without any
adjustment. (Tightening of lose fittings) It was his recommend setup.
This is also the most expensive way.
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6, 20480 N157GS
writes:
>
>I've searched the archives and I still have a few unanswered questions
>so I
>need to go where others have undoubtedly gone before. I recently
>purchased a
>Piper Blade Heated Pitot tube from a salvage yard. The heating
>element is
>gone but I've flown 10 years and 1500 hours without pitot heat so
>don't
>figure this is an issue. For thirty bucks it simply looks better than
>Van's
>unit in my opinion. My questions are:
>
> (1) Van's pitot opening is 14 inches from the leading edge. An
>Arrow
>on the field with a blade pitot has its placed 29 inches from the
>leading
>edge. Any suggestions on placement considering the blade is only 4
>inches
>long and Van's is 6-7? Accuracy is a big issue.
>
> (2) The blade has a static opening, do you suggest plumbing
>this? One
>builder says he plugged his up.
>
> (3) If I simply use a 3"x3" .040 skin doubler with nutplates
>will this
>be sufficient or do I need to tie in a mounting bracket for strength?
>
> (4) Is there some type of flexible tubing recommended that would
>be
>durable and easy to install that would connect the tube with the
>guage?
>
>Thanks in advance, IT'S APPRECIATED!
>
>Rob Miller
>RV-8 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
Ad me to the list too, please. thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piper Blade Pitot Tube |
Rob; I have one of those on my 6 and it works great--stall speed is 8 kts
and top speed is 37 kts.:)
I located it exactly where the plans indicated to put the tube. If we have
the same one. it has two holes in the mounting base, one on each side of a
teardrop shaped base. I had the two bolts go into the spar flange that is
located just forward of the hole that Vans plans says to use. Did have to
slightly enlarge the hole in the wing skin and added a new hole for the
static port outlet. I used the static port, why not, I think Vans
instructions say that there may be some error in the location on the side of
the fus.
I just trimmed the wires off right at the base and ignored that the thing
could be heated. Used a poly type (ridged wall) tube from there to the cockpit.
>From the best I can tell, my a/s with this as a source, is within about 2-3
mph as checked with loran and solved for temp, press alt etc etc etc. And
as I've said before, I think most of the AF a/c I flew had installation
errors at least this large.
Any suggestions on placement considering the blade is only 4 inches
>long and Van's is 6-7? Accuracy is a big issue.
>
> (2) The blade has a static opening, do you suggest plumbing this? One
>builder says he plugged his up.
>
> (3) If I simply use a 3"x3" .040 skin doubler with nutplates will this
>be sufficient or do I need to tie in a mounting bracket for strength?
>
> (4) Is there some type of flexible tubing recommended that would be
>durable and easy to install that would connect the tube with the guage?
>
Please note: the plane doesn't fly wing low because of it, and I drink one
less cup of coffee before take off so as not to over gross due to the
increased wt. and if I die, I know it will be due to flying without a heated
pitot tube.
Just my opinion.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
>
>Al,
> Thanks again for the response, do you know where I could find one of these
>sonic cleaners?
> Ryan B
>
>
Ryan,
You should be able to get them at K Mart or Meijers etc... It's just a
standard Sonic Denture Cleaner. I got mine at a garage sale for $5. It's a
"Sunbeam Ultrasonic Denture Cleaner". The bowl is 3 1/2" wide by 3" across
and 1 1/2" deep. It's Sunbeam model #UDC-1 E40407. I think you could find
it in almost any Dental Hygene section. The bowl is stainless steel. Hope
this helps. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tachometers, engine gauges? |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> I was planning on getting a UMA tachometer but based on experiences of
> people on this list as well as others I guess I won't. Any recommended
> alternatives? I am specifically looking for an electronic, with analog
> readout, i.e. a REAL NEEDLE not one of those LCD or LED displays that
> simulate analog, and preferably 2 1/4" dia. The MICRO-1000 series stuff
> in ACS looks promising, but their application chart only lists ROTAX,
> etc. Anyone ever used those?
>
> Also I was thinking of using those square, gangable Mitchell gauges sold
> in ACS for oil press/temp and amps/volts. Any comments from anyone who
> has had experience with these (good or bad)?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6
> randall(at)edt.com
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
The Mitchell gauges are VDO gauges with Mitchell silkscreened over the
face. I use a VDO tach in my off-road vehicle, and it is very stable,
and nicely backlit. Never had a problem with any of the instrumentation
I've used. I may be able to save you a few $$ on VDO instruments,
respond off list if you're interested.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aymar-Demuth Prop. |
>
>What is the current VAN's web site address. CAN't seem to get the link that
>most pages point to to respond.
>
http://www.vansaircraft.com
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper Blade Pitot Tube |
Appolies for putting this on the list...
Gary,
If you're ever out in the Redlands (L12) area, look me up, I'd love to
see you -6...
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: RVList Humor - delete if you want! |
You forgot the 512 enraged listers who expect the original poster to traipse
through 2Gbytes of archive files before bothering the list with light bulb
trivia.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
| Subject: | Alumiprep trough (was Beginning Empanage!) |
>>Actually, I'm thinking about building a small workbench type device
>>with sides and line it with something. Put a hole in the bottom and
>>let the water run into a bucket.
Phil Arter gets credit for this one. I bought a 10' piece of plastic
rain gutter, and cut it into 3+' and 6+' lengths. I put on plastic end
caps I (bought also), and presto - a place to spray alumiprep on those
parts, cheap. So far, I've used little acid, so I just filled the
trough up with water to dilute it and dumped it. Hasn't killed the
grass yet.
EB #80131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
RV>(pledge) for years (15+) to clean my canopy in both gliders and
power planes
>
>I used to use pledge. But, it contains silicone. On my fibreglass glider I now
use Meguires, dark red bottle. It contains no silicone - in
case one needs to repaint or touch up paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Piper Blade Pitot Tube - location |
I just looked at my Debonair's pitot tube yesterday. Its tip is just a hair forward
of the leading edge - maybe enough to be at least even with a stuck on bug. A
nearby Mooney is nearly the same.
I think it is mounted to the skin with a doubler plate. Beech does make good
stuff and this has been there for 32 years with no problem. I had thought of
some exotic mount that would attach to the tie down bar but now I'm thinking
that fixed there and hit hard might do more damage.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> >
> > << have a question concerning the 2 piece bulkheads in the RV-4 fuselage.
> > When assembling these, my first inclination was to simply align the tooling
> > holes, and hammer them together.
> > snip
> > I am beginning to wonder if I did the right thing. Any advice from RV-4
> > builders past this point would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Joe Rex
> > RV-4 Fuselage-ready to build jig? >>
> >
> > As it so happens, I have a LARGE opinion on this subject, after building 7
of
> > these things. It depends on if you want a smooth fuse or not. Email me off
> > the list, as the explanation (how to fix) is a bit detailed.
> >
> > My soap box is ready....
> >
> > Check six!
> > Mark Mark,
Please be so kind as to email me a copy of your reply to the above
problem. I'd like to save it (your reply) to disk (I do this a lot so
that I'll have the info handy when I need it). Thanks
Boris Robinson
smbr(at)digital.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
> My RV is IFR certified and I had no trouble at all with the FSDO. All you
> have to do is check the proper box on the application for IFR certification.
> The same goes for Aerobatics. You need to have TSO''d radios for your VOR
> to be legal.
Only the Transponder and ELT (and GPS if used for IFR) need to have TSO
approval for operations under part 91. Ref. FAR parts 91.205, 91.207,
91.215.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)msn.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | How to fit fwd elevator push tube - Quickbuild?? |
Hi,
I never was very good at puzzles. This looks to me like a good one. The 47.5
inch push-pull tube is too long to be slipped into the channel. If I try to
insert from the tail forward, it hits the bottom of bulkhead - I think it is
F608. I hate to increase the opening sizes in the bulkheads the tube runs thru
as they look to be doubled.
I suppose I could bend the tube and straighten it later. :-)
Seriously, how do I do it?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw... |
>
>
><< Is it just me or all of those 'golden' screws that are used on the fuel
>tank, and
> more specifically to my current task, around the canopy, a big pile of sh*t?
>>>
>
>I believe you to be correct in your assessment of these screws. They are
>chromated cadmium plated alloy steel and are quite ductile. I prefer the
>stainless steel MS24694Cx structural screws. ACS has them. Still, the
>cross-recessed driving recess is easy to cam out. Use a hardened #2
>screwdriver bit with the tip ground off a little (so that the wings seat
>well). Going into a nutplate the first time use a little anti-sieze (weiner
>schleider) on the threads to supplement the dry film lubricant already on the
>nutplate.
>
>Steve Barnard used some nice Tri-Wing screws to attach his tanks but I never
>asked him where he got them. These are very resistant to cam-out as are Torx
>but I can't seem to find them in 100 degree flat head.
>
>Anyone know about these?
>
>-GV
>Hi peoples,
Those Tri-wing screws you are looking for are NAS 4903 100 degree reduced
head,
tri-wing recessed hi torque screws made of titanium. Not sure if they are
available
in other materials. The ones I used are #10 screws with a smaller diameter
head
about the same size as an 8/32 screw head. Be advised they require a
special driver
so if you aquire the screws you'll need that driver. If you strip the head
you'll
need to drill them out. That titanium is hard to drill. Not sure where
you could
aquire them. I picked them up while I was in L.A. I recommend using the
standard
screws 8/32-AN 509's
Just a small note: BARNARD AIRCRAFT NOW HAS A NEW WEB SITE.
SEE US AT WWW.Barnardaircraft.Com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
TSO is not required for VOR, or other nav receivers, in IFR flight
according to what I have been finding out, but, may be a good idea
anyway.
Warren Gretz
Denver area
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR Certification
Date: 4/22/97 11:50 PM
My RV is IFR certified and I had no trouble at all with the FSDO. All you
have to do is check the proper box on the application for IFR certification.
The same goes for Aerobatics. You need to have TSO''d radios for your VOR
to be legal. You can install these yourself. Bill Benedict made the harness
for me when I bought the radio from Van's, which BTW, had the best price I
could find. You also need to have your altimeter and encoder checked by a
certified shop and have that noted in your aircraft logbook.
Jim Cone
RV-6A 929JC flying IFR
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Alumiprep - it will kill grass. |
Give it time....it will kill grass!
hal
> caps I (bought also), and presto - a place to spray alumiprep on those
> parts, cheap. So far, I've used little acid, so I just filled the
> trough up with water to dilute it and dumped it. Hasn't killed the
> grass yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
G.V. ,
Most people just vent to static.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emcole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tachometers, engine gauges? |
Larry D. Hoatson wrote:
>
>
> Randall Henderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I was planning on getting a UMA tachometer but based on experiences of
> > people on this list as well as others I guess I won't. Any recommended
> > alternatives? I am specifically looking for an electronic, with analog
> > readout, i.e. a REAL NEEDLE not one of those LCD or LED displays that
> > simulate analog, and preferably 2 1/4" dia. The MICRO-1000 series stuff
> > in ACS looks promising, but their application chart only lists ROTAX,
> > etc. Anyone ever used those?
> >
> > Also I was thinking of using those square, gangable Mitchell gauges sold
> > in ACS for oil press/temp and amps/volts. Any comments from anyone who
> > has had experience with these (good or bad)?
> >
> > Randall Henderson, RV-6
> > randall(at)edt.com
> > http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
> The Mitchell gauges are VDO gauges with Mitchell silkscreened over the
> face. I use a VDO tach in my off-road vehicle, and it is very stable,
> and nicely backlit. Never had a problem with any of the instrumentation
> I've used. I may be able to save you a few $$ on VDO instruments,
> respond off list if you're interested.
> Larry
> --
> Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
>
> lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
>
> KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
>
> Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
VDO Guages are also available thru Racer Wholesale and Summit Racing.
See archives for addresses and phone #'s
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Colwell <colwell(at)innercite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Locking Tailwheel |
cfggg wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> Does anyone know of a full swivel, lockable tailwheel for RVs similar to
> >the Haig model-$$ that is seen on Eagles & Pitts. When used, the steering
> >arm, chains, springs and connector links can be thrown in the trash. This
> >should aerodynamically really clean up that part of the airplane and
> >eliminate a ground loop waiting to happen due to failures of these parts.
> > Jim Ayres, don't you have a homebuilt version of one on your -3? Is it
> >worth it? Notice any drag reduction? Just how fast is that red LOM powered
> >-3?
> >-6 Rick
> >
> I just finished welding up a tailwheel locking device. It reduces the amount
> of odds and ends in the airstream. If there is interest I will try to get
> pictures on a website somewhere.
>
> The lock will be controlled with a device that will engage when the stick
> is full forward. This is similar to some WW2 types. The taildragger Glasairs
> have locking tailwheels. Does anybody know how they are set up?
>
> I asked another member on this list for some info on what he did but never
> heard back. Perhaps the electrons got waylaid and he will respond now.
>
> David Fried
I have a new (still in the box) Aviation Products lockable, full swivel
tailwheel. It is setup for a RV round tailspring and a control cable.
This is a high quality part, used on Pitts and Christen Eagles. I paid
$187.00-----will sell for $150.00.
Steve Colwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Seat height on RV-6 |
>
>This has been bugging me for a couple years. I noticed at a fly in that
>someone had shortened the seat backs on their RV-6, to where it was barely
>over the top of the bulkhead it rests against. I sat in it and felt that it
>was the same to my back as the 'stock' one. The extra height seems to serve
>no purpose. I noted it was easier to sit on the seat back while getting in
>or out, and was handier for 'over the top' access to the baggage
>compartment. It also didn't hit the control stick as bad when you tilted it
>forward. I can see no significant disadvantage to shortening except you
>would have to have D J make your cushions shorter.
>
>What do you -6 builders and flyers think of this? Why did Van make them so
>long in the first place? Has anyone tried it and not liked it?
>
>The world wonders. Hold off on grousing about lawyers and let's hear your
>opinion!
>
To Bumflyer
I have a flying RV6-A with the seats lowered exactly 4 inches and love it.
They we're
cut off at the bottom and I also put 2 inch lightening holes in the flat
areas of the seat backs to reduced weight. I was able to remove 2 lbs. of
weight out of the
seats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Seat height on RV-6 |
>
>This has been bugging me for a couple years. I noticed at a fly in that
>someone had shortened the seat backs on their RV-6, to where it was barely
>over the top of the bulkhead it rests against. I sat in it and felt that it
>was the same to my back as the 'stock' one. The extra height seems to serve
>no purpose. I noted it was easier to sit on the seat back while getting in
>or out, and was handier for 'over the top' access to the baggage
>compartment. It also didn't hit the control stick as bad when you tilted it
>forward. I can see no significant disadvantage to shortening except you
>would have to have D J make your cushions shorter.
>
>What do you -6 builders and flyers think of this? Why did Van make them so
>long in the first place? Has anyone tried it and not liked it?
>
>The world wonders. Hold off on grousing about lawyers and let's hear your
>opinion!
>
To Bumflyer:
Hope you receive this one in it's entirety. I have lowered the seats 4
inches
and love it. You have better accesibility to the baggage area and you also
can remove about 2 lbs of material from the seats at the same time. I
removed 4 inches from the bottom of the seat back and placed lightening
holes in the flat areas of approx. 2 inch dia. I highly recomend it. That
upper portion of the seat is not
used at all. I am 6 ft 2 and still do not use that portion of the seat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
GV,
When I said static before what I meant was vent it to the cabin, not to the
static sys.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Stick Movment... |
Matt,
You have some leway in your fore and aft movement. In other words you can
adjust your stick some fore or aft once everything is hooked up. Your side to
side movement will not be your limiting factor in the length of your stick.
In other words it doesent matter if your stick is short or long youll still
hit your thighs at full travel. My advise would be not to install your stick
grips untlil your instrument panel is complete, your radio's and everything
else is installed. This way you will be able to figure out exactly what your
limitations are. Hope this helps some
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
Joe, you might consider temporarily fastening them and then completing
final alignment in the jig. Adjustments may have to be made at that
time. The main frame where the wing attaches deserves special attention
as it mates to the wing.
ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EGT/CHT Gauge Operations |
I've installed a new Westach EGT/CHT gauge. Seeing how I've never used one
before and seeing how Westach doesn't provide any operating instructions, I
need some help in using it. This gauge is connected to my Lyc. 0-320 160hp
on the back #3 cylinder.. What are the normal or maximum temperatures to
be observed.? Any suggestions on how to use it would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Ron Caldwell
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Begining Empanage! |
z>
>You hit it right on the head as far as I'm concerned Frank. I've only had
>one priming session but I can see that it will more time consuming that
>what I had thought. I've decided to so the parts cleaning with PPG DX533
>etching cleaner. I'm concerned about using it on the driveway and having
>it eat away at the asphalt. Besides washing it down the driveway and it
>will get at the edges of the grass and my wife goes crazy when the grass
>dies. So whats left is to do it in the back yard where I've got some pea
>gravel for landscaping.
My priming session consists of a light rub with Scotchbrite, just enough to
take the shine off, to roughen the surface a little. Then wash down with
ICI (Dulux) Deoxidine (a phosphoric acid etch, I guess the same as your PPG
DX533), leave for a couple of minutes, then rinse off with warm water. Dry
down, then wipe down with Prepsol. Dry (being careful not to get fingers on
the part), then paint.
Because I only have a small compressor (1/2hp) and tank, I can't paint much
in one go, so I have various items in various stages of this process at the
same time.
The deoxidine I just wipe on with a rag (rubber gloves, of course -- it
froths kinda neatly when it lands on concrete), and keep the gloves on for
the rinse off. Rinsing, I stand the item up in the bucket of water and wipe
it down with a rag, splashing on plenty of water.
I replace the water fairly often... I just chuck it out over the concrete,
aiming for it to kill the moss and stuff, and to stop the grass from
growing over the path.
Hint: Before painting, blow air through all the holes in thick items like
spar stiffeners. Otherwise, when you paint one side, it'll blow water out
of the hole and onto the other surface. You paint that, and it'll be a mess.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Video |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
I spoke again to Skyward/Mattituck who advised that they are keeping
their options open regarding PAL format and they will decide in response
to demand.
ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James & Mary Mc Phee <bluegum(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper Blade Pitot Tube |
Dear Rob,
Good question. I also have the Piper Pitot fitted where Van says to fit it
with a doubler inside. The accuracy is within 2 knots at any time and it
has been on there for 4 1/2 years and 300+ hours. The other comments re
people hitting the plans pitot are valid. I also connected the static with
no problems whatsoever.
Don't let others put you off with negative comments unless they have atually
fitted one themselves and had to remove it for a specific reason. The pitot
is good.
This comment does not in any way demean Van's pitot.
Regards,
James Mc Phee RV-6 20334 ZK-MRV 300+ hrs.
,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Golden Screw...Gold is cheap, try Titanium! |
An old carpenter told me, when I was building my own house, that the mistake he
sees owner/builders make the most often is wanting to build everything "hell for
stout". Even so, I couldn't resist. Eventually, I realized that I was running
up the cost to build a house that would last a longer than I would. Only then
did I begin to follow standards.
Now comes titanium screws on an RV airframe? For those hot Texas days, I guess.
Check me if I'm wrong - titanium is not quite as light as aluminum but it is
much stronger when hot? They make exhaust valves for Chevys of titanium for the
racing set at $100 a pop as against the same for a set of eight standard valves.
It is not as strong as steel is it.
I am still worried about using these little pop rivets to hold the elevator push
pull tubes' ends on, though.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
======================= this is what got me going ========================
Those Tri-wing screws you are looking for are NAS 4903 100 degree reduced
head,
tri-wing recessed hi torque screws made of titanium. Not sure if they are
available
in other materials. The ones I used are #10 screws with a smaller diameter
head
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 Oil Cooler Clearance |
What is the minimum perpendicular clearance between the oil cooler
mounting flange and the engine mount needed to keep one of Vans oil
coolers from contacting the engine mount when the oil cooler is mounted
on the left baffle of a 6/6A. I don't want to determine this
measurement by trial and error.
For those of you who are not yet at this point in building your birds,
one member of a 6/6A engine mount runs diagonally behind the left rear
engine cooling baffle (an area some builders mount their oil coolers)
and as I see it an improperly located oil cooler could result in damage
to the cooler as well as the engine mount during engine startup and
shutdown or anytime the engine experiences severe shaking.
I realize other oil coolers are available, I'm just exploring all the
possibilities.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | tachometers, engine gauges? |
Randall wrote:
>>
... Also I was thinking of using those square, gangable Mitchell gauges sold
in ACS for oil press/temp and amps/volts. Any comments from anyone who
has had experience with these (good or bad)? ...
<<
I used the Mitchell modular gangable gauges for the following instruments:
oil temp
oil press.
amps
volts
left gas gauge
right gas gauge
fuel pressure
hour meter
They are internally lighted, easy to read, and I have them built into one
horizontal row on the bottom of my panel, kind of like a cherokee. I will be
uploading some pictures of this to my RV page in a few weeks.
I am very pleased with them, they look great, and take up very little panel
space.
Scott Johnson / Chicago
rvgasj(at)mcs.com
847-985-3772
RV6A N345RV flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aymar-Demuth Prop. |
Van's web site is: http://www.vansaircraft.com.
E-mail address is : vansac(at)vansaircraft.com.
Phil Rogerson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper Blade Pitot Tube |
>
>Dear Rob,
>
>Good question. I also have the Piper Pitot fitted where Van says to fit it
>with a doubler inside.
>Don't let others put you off with negative comments unless they have atually
>fitted one themselves and had to remove it for a specific reason. The pitot
>is good.
>
>This comment does not in any way demean Van's pitot.
>James Mc Phee RV-6 20334 ZK-MRV 300+ hrs.
>
Just to throw in another vote, I choose the blade also after talking to RV
owner that had one. They all said " no problems, indicates accurate". I
choose it because looked like it stood a less chance of being hooked and
damaged.
Denny H. RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
rb is 100% correct. There are a lot of us out here who thought the V meant
vacuum and used that on the suction gage. The P is the one to use..... if
you want it to work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jordan <ace(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 20:25:57 -0700 |
rv-list-request(at)matronics.com who
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Whistle stop |
>OK, there's that thing again: "Whistle Stop". I understand it is to help
>prevent the crankcase vent from blowing when it freezes; my question is:
>where does it go?? In the hose? It sounds like it goes in the chunk of
>tubing at the distal end of the hose. Pointing up? What does it look like?
>A "V" shaped notch? Why a whistle stop and not a whistle hole?
>Michael
Michael,
I put the "thing" towards the top of the 10" long piece of 5/8" aluminum
tube. I don't know if there is a particular science that tells you where to
place them. You might want to look at a few factory installations and see
what they've done. I never pass up an opportunity to look at an un-cowled
engine when at the airport. You can learn a lot on how to and how not to do
things on your RV. In fact, factory airplanes could learn a lot from some
of the nice RV engine installations I've seen.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Heck, I'm not sure anything short
of some type of abrasive will take that stuff off. Maybe a nuclear strength
thinner compound, or a chisel & hammer. >>
Hi All,
Actually, I found a sharpen popsickle stick is just the tning to scrap the
Proseal/PRC off. The cured rubber is soft, and shears fairly easily.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fresh Air System |
Hello All:
I have a friend who is about 2/3rds of the way into his second compost
(composite) airplane. He's suddenly developed a pretty severe allergic
reaction to some of the chemicals. He's looking for a fresh air system that
has some sort of hood/mask that would cover his eyes as well as his nose and
mouth. I remember that there has been discussion of a "Hobby Air" system on
the list before, but I didn't pay attention to the particulars.
Please don't tell me to check the archives... for some reason my web browser
crashes my computer every time I try to access the web.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033
RV8 Guy(at)aol.com <<======like my new e-mail address?!?
sure beats "@lawyernet.com"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Planner |
Need software to layout panel prior to
>>fabrication.
i have some full scale plots of a typical panel. You'd have to literally
cut and paste, but it worked fine for mine. Mostly it's a case of renaming
a bunch of circles. Kevin (503) 233-1818
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting a Quickbuild |
>
>Hi all,
>
>My 32 year old Debonair is not primed on the inside; anywhere. The
aluminum is
>still as shiny as that going into my RV.
>
>Last summer, I replaced the elevator skins which are magnesium and well
know for
>their corrosion problems. They corrode under the paint, especially paint like
>Imron, which mine has, and which does not breath. The paint is now 13
years old
>and still looks very good, just like the new elevators! Never wax it, I'm
told.
>
>My quickbuild is already unprimed and I'm not about to take it apart to prime
>it. Is it still a good idea to prime the inside of the fuselage if the inside
>of the wings is unprimed? I did have my Deb treated with one of the anti
>corrosion oily stuffs but they only treat wings and empennage as they are what
>usually corrode.
>
>If I do prime assembled stuff, is there likely to be even more of a problem
with
>corrosion in between unprimed surfaces?
>
>How much does priming everything add to empty weight?
>
>Finally, there is an HVLP paint gun called Lexaire, they have a web page:
>
>http://www1.usa1.com/~stephenb/2002.html
>
>Works with standard air compressor. Binks also has one, I believe, and it is
>less expensive.
>
>Has anyone any experience with either?
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Almost ready to start on the rudder
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
Hal, If your quickbuild was unprimed, then someone got in the crate and
removed the primer. The quickbuilds are primed with a Sherwin Williams
primer. If you run your fingers over an interior surface you will see that
it feels rougher than running your fingers over the exterior surface. This
roughness is the primer. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun N Fun - RVs??? |
>
>I just got back from attending Sun N Fun. This was my first time there. I
>didn't arrive until Thursday morning. There were only 5 RVs in the show
>plane area. I was shocked to find so few. No one was around to talk with
>so I surmized that most everyone came at the beginning of the week and had
>already left to go home. On Friday and Saturday, I counted only 3 RVs.
>
>Can anyone who was there the first part of the week give me some feel for
>how many RVs did I miss out on??? Yes, I was dis-appointed seeing how I
>traveled over 2000 miles to get there. Anyway, it taught me a lesson to
>attend at the first part of the week rather than the latter part. For
>those who haven't attended and plan to next year, learn from me, go early.
>
>I will for sure be at Oshkosh several days early.
>
>Ron Caldwell
>rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
>RV6A - Riveting Fuselage Skin
Ron, The RV's tend to show up early and leave directly after the RV forum.
At SNF, we usually have the banquet on Tuesday and the forum on Wednesday.
The lot is cleared out by sunset on Wednesday. The running count was 105
RV's logged in
by Friday evening (the 6th day). You could have seen almost all 105 of them
on Tuesday. The homebuilt parking looks pretty sparse after the RV's depart.
Oshkosh is a little different. The large number of aircraft tends to occur
on Friday and Saturday. We usually have the Banquet on Sunday, but some of
the people have already departed by then.
Better luck next time. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler - O320-E2D |
>
>Scott Malone wrote:
>>
>>
>> Has anyone mounted the oil cooler, left-aft, as Orndorff did in his
>> tapes and had the same heating problem. My engine is an O320-E2D
>> constant speed prop.
>>
>> Installing engine baffling. RV6A
>> scottm(at)pld.com
>> Scott Malone
>> Ulysses, Ks.
>
>
>I wondered about the same thing. I'm installing my baffling now and
>plan to situate my oil cooler on the left rear baffel. If I remember
>correctly George used the alternate oil port which comes plugged and
>safety wired on a new engine, it's high and left of the oil filter
>instead of the one below and right from the oil filter, that may have
>had some impact. Also he didn't memtion how large the baffle opening
>was and how far open his oil cooler door would open. Oh well, if mine
>doesn't cool well I'll just move it to the firewall or up front like he
>did.
>
>One last thing, he never mentioned what his temperatures were.
>--
>Chet Razer
>crazer(at)egyptian.net
At Van's, we have several planes with the oil cooler mounted on the left
rear baffle and do not have any problems. This location allows you to keep
the oil hoses short, thus less prone to failure. In some of the aircraft,
our oil temp is too low which causes the oil to retain moisture and turn
black. The IO-360 (200HP) tends to run warm (over 180F), but the oil stays
clean forever. You typically need to block off a significant part of the
oil cooler to keep the temperatures up. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Homecoming |
>
>Can anyone tell me the dates for Van's Homecoming? This will be our
>first year to visit, and I'm unfamiliar with the area - we'll probably
>fly into Portland - any tips on lodging, camping, events, etc...
>
>Information appreciated
>
>Larry
>--
>Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
>
Larry, Plan on Labor Day weekend. Saturday arrival and picnic, Sunday
flying about and banquet, Monday fly home, Tuesday back to work! Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <72714.2663(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure Gauges |
More about Manifold Pressure Gauges.
The Manifold Pressure gauge in my Cessna 182 was stickey with the indication
lagging behind power changes, I discovered that recessed inside the inlet port
is a needle valve that can be adjusted with a small screwdriver. I presume all
gauges are similar.
Purpose of the valve is to dampen out pressure fluctuations in the manifold
pressure line. If the valve is open too far the manifold pressure needle will
fluctuate with pulses in the line, too tight or dirty and the gauge sticks or
lags behind power changes.
Half a turn with a screwdriver is a lot cheaper than taking the gauge to a
instrument shop!
George McNutt
HS - 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Pop rivets and push pull tubes?? |
Hal,
You might try counting the various pop rivets and then match them to the
inventoy by quantity. Van's doesn't usually put in any extras of these.
Les Williams
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Hal Kempthorne
Sent: Monday, April 21, 1997 1:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pop rivets and push pull tubes??
Hi all,
Plans call out pop rivets to hold ends on tubes, I guess it must work but
seems
like nice steel screws or bolts would be better.
QUESTION: I put my parts in drawers - what does a MD42-BS look like?? I
can't
find them in my mechanics guide or ACS catalog. Van's catalog has them listed
as round head aluminum rivet with steel mandrel 4/32nds by 2/16ths? Puzzling.
QUESTION 2: How does the static air pop rivet thing happen? I didn't
understand the doc.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Gap Seal |
Ok, I have a question about the placement of the gap seal. The plans
show a 2-9/16" dimension from the rear spar web to the rearmost edge of
the gap seal. The drawing shows the flat web ending before the rear
spar web flange. Since the flat face of the gap seal is more than
2-9/16", I trial fitted it over the spar (between spar and skin) and
adjusted it to the called out location. After re-fitting the aileron, I
found that the clearance was within 1/4". My questions: Is this
clearance correct, or should it be more like the large clearance shown
in the drawing? Should I trim the gap seal to butt the spar web flange,
or should I leave it between the spar and skin? My guess would be to
trim the seal and increase the clearance at least 1/4", but before I
chop off a lot of aluminum I thought I'd ask. Thanks in advance.
PatK - RV-6A - Finishing the little details before closing the wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fitzgerald" <theredbaron(at)204.119.177.28> |
| Subject: | Beginner priming questions |
Hello all,
I am taking delivery of an RV-8 emp kit today and have some basic
questions on priming. Is it 'recommended' to alumiprep, then alodine,
then prime or can I leave out a step and still come out with a decent,
corrosion resistant airplane. I work for Gulfstream Aerospace and we do
all three but these aircraft also have a 20 year corrosion guarantee
(and are $35 million so the added expense is irrelevant). Can I use a
cheap auto sprayer for priming? Where is a good place to buy in bulk at
a low price? I only have an aircraft spruce catalog right now and I dont
know if their prices are that good. Can I use zinc oxide? Sorry if
these are extremely basic questions - ya gotta start somewhere right!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Barnard Aircraft website |
Guys,
After about three hours of downloading and setting up Internet Explorer
with Frames I was finally able to get on the Barnard Aircraft website. It's
really state of the art and worth the effort. I would like to welcome Steve
to the RV-List and I really think he will be another valuable resource for
us all to draw upon. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to fit fwd elevator push tube - Quickbuild?? |
Hal;
Good question. This I believe I remember and the high tech solution--I
bowed it while having the bellcrank off and coming at it from the rear. I'm
pretty sure that was the solution. In fact, I was just out yesterday doing
part of my annual and checking the bell crank and noticed I still have some
masking tape on the top of the slot in the bulkhead there--probably left
over from trying to keep it from scrapping too much. Try it and see if it
will work.
I was a little like you about the pop rivets in the push tube, but it must
work, there are many like it.
What has been your solution to priming the inside of the tubes?
You must be coming right along with it based on what questioned you are
asking. You have jumped from the stabilizer to the fuse. in about a month,
and you fuse. ? are not at the beginning part so It must be a quick quick build.
Also from something you mentioned, have you given up on the auto conv. eng
in your plane?
Hope the tools are happy and helpful. Wouldn't you know it, about two weeks
ago I had a task, none a/c related, that a rivet set would have greatly
simplified it. My friend nearly laughed his ass off, kept saying 'I told
you not to sell them'.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Oil Cooler Clearance |
Chet;
For what it's worth. I have the oil cooler in the position you mention. I
don't have any measurements, but before I mounted permanently, I fooled
around with it and noticed that part of the inside edge of the aft flange
would either rub or almost rub the engine mount. I filed part of the flange
of in sort of a half moon manner. The engine would have to shake around and
move almost 1/2 inch to get it to hit. In 170 hours, no indication of
hitting yet, even after some of my 'test' landings! Of course, I haven't
lost half of my prop yet, when I do, I'll let you know if the oil cooler hit.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure/Vacuum gauge question |
Cheryl;
Don't feel bad about this confusion. My FBO got to where he would barely
talk to me. My questions were: is P for pressure, lack of, therefore vacuum
and V is for vent (i.e. static)? Or is P for pump and therefore vacuum and
V for vent? Or is P for pressure (atmospheric) and V for vacuum.
I think I got him confused an then he became frustrated because I had
confused him. And to top it off, there were some
gauges/guages/gages/gajes/dials/thingamabobs/oogahonkers that had no marks
on them, just different size holes.
There is, or use to be, a diagram in ACS about this, but I'm not sure they
have the same nomenclature as the g----s, some had S and an occasional G
thrown in there.
When I was changing out my DG for the third time because they would not work
right, I called the shop that sold me the DG so as to confirm what went
where, I just bit the bullet and told him--OK, I'll admit I'm dumb, so just
tell me for sure. I wrote down what he said, went to the a/c and hooked it
up that way, and promptly forgot it in my confused head.
I know that this hasn't helped you answer your question, but maybe it makes
you feel a little better about having to ask it. You are not wondering alone
out there in never never land!
(boy, my spell checker just blew a fuse/fuze or whatever)
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
Regarding all of the Canopy talk:
There is a product called 210, plastic cleaner and polish. I have used
the spray on my T-craft and glider and it is a very high grade polisher.
It takes a few applications to notice the difference, especially on poor
quality canopies but, it keeps the plastic in new condition thereafter.
Call: Sumner Labs, 210 Lincoln St., Boston, MA 02111, 1-800-542-8656,
fax 617-482-9001, for a distributor near you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
RON TABOREK wrote:
>
>
> Joe, you might consider temporarily fastening them and then completing
> final alignment in the jig. Adjustments may have to be made at that
> time. The main frame where the wing attaches deserves special attention
> as it mates to the wing.
>
> ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
The only trouble I had with the fuselage bulkhead formers was
after I too had taken it out of the jig and was ready to install the top
skin from the cockpit to the empannage. Bulkhead F-408 was completely
out of line and simply didn't line up with any thing else. I cut this
bulkhead off at the top longerons and apart at the middle. I then custom
fitted it back to the fuselage using .032" doublers at the longerons and
the top middle. It took about 2 hours to accomplish this task. My skin
then went on like a charm and looks very good. What i'm trying to say is
don't be afraid to modify these formers to make them fit, you can rivet
them back just as strong as they were. The skin takes most of the load
anyway, and the bulkheads just holds the skin in the proper position.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
The plans
show a 2-9/16" dimension from the rear spar web to the rearmost edge of
the gap seal. The drawing shows the flat web ending before the rear
spar web flange. Since the flat face of the gap seal is more than
2-9/16", I trial fitted it over the spar (between spar and skin) and
adjusted it to the called out location. After re-fitting the aileron, I
found that the clearance was within 1/4". My questions: Is this
clearance correct, or should it be more like the large clearance shown
in the drawing? Should I trim the gap seal to butt the spar web flange,
or should I leave it between the spar and skin? My guess would be to
trim the seal and increase the clearance at least 1/4", but before I
chop off a lot of aluminum I thought I'd ask. Thanks in advance.
PatK - RV-6A - Finishing the little details before closing the wing.
>>
Pat:
Fit the skin to the dimensions shown - 2 9/16" will work.
Want to know an easier way to attach the thing? You have already noticed that
the gap seal fits between the spar and the top skin. Simply use this row of
rivets to attach the gap seal, and delete the (hard to buck) row aft of the
spar. Watch the top skin contour, as it could end up with a slight bulge aft
of the spar.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jordan <ace(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | list instructions |
Thanks Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild primer (was Painting a Quickbuild) |
Bill Benedict wrote:
> snipped
The quickbuilds are primed with a Sherwin Williams
> primer. If you run your fingers over an interior surface you will see that
> it feels rougher than running your fingers over the exterior surface. This
> roughness is the primer. Bill
>
>Bill,
What is the exact Sherwin Williams product used on the quickbuilds?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | Fresh Air System |
Hi Ron,
I got all the Hobby Air propaganda at Sun N Fun. Please E-mail me a fax #
privately and I'll fax it over.
Eric Henson
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
----------
Rod Woodard Wrote:
>>> I remember that there has been discussion of a "Hobby Air" system on
the list before, but I didn't pay attention to the particulars.
>>Please don't tell me to check the archives... <<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
>
>Ok, I have a question about the placement of the gap seal. The plans
>show a 2-9/16" dimension from the rear spar web to the rearmost edge of
>the gap seal.
Patrick,
I just attacked this on my QB wing last evening. The plans don't call for
the gap seal fitting between the spar web and bottom skin (although it sure
looks like it would fit nicely there...trouble is my bottom skin is already
riveted to the rear spar ).
I took the 2 9/16" measure and subtracted the actual measured spar flange
width, which came out to be 2 9/16" - 5/8" = 1 15/16". With the gap seal
cut to this dimension, it butts up nicely to the rear spar flange.
On a related note, some have made their aileron gap as tight as physically
possible. From the archives I gather all this achieves is higher stick
forces and/or an increased possibility of aileron snatch, so I opted to go
for Van's specification on the gap.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q (hoping my spelling and grammer
and mathematics are up to snuff, hoping that you don't get flamed for not
searching the archives first, hoping this isn't repetitive info........)
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks to Henry Bibb who responded to my question and gave me enough
information to search for what I needed to know. For anyone else who may be
watching this thread, I found the following information:
Hobbyaire System
Manufactured by FASTECH Corporation
1-800-462-2471
System with a full face mask (covers eyes, too) $479.00
System with a 1/2 (mouth & nose) mask $369.00
Hood that will cover down to your shoulders and helps to protect your hair
and eyes $53.00
Very helpful sales rep.: Don
Hope this helps somebody...
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado (man is it snowing today!)
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Barnard Aircraft website |
>> I was finally able to get on the Barnard Aircraft website. <<
Al, do you have the website address?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ely <jmely(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Windscreen COM Antenna |
I really don't like the idea of hanging all sorts of drag-inducing
gadgets on the outside of such a slick plane as the RV-6. But, I'm
having trouble selecting an inside location for a COM antenna.
I discovered that I only have about 19-20" vertical space available on
my sliding canopy windscreen for my copper foil COM antenna if I mount
it on the centerline. Yet, Vans' instructions call for 23" for COM
frequencies.
Anyone else with a slider find a better location?
Thanks, John Ely.....still trying to finish all of those final details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | RV-6 brake reservoir location |
A question regarding the location of the VA-107 brake fluid reservoir
on the RV-6: Dwg #49 shows the reservoir located near the top of the
firewall, above the level of the longerons. Dwg #40 shows it below the
level of the longerons. Which is correct? Does it matter? What have
others done?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
Pat, trim it to fit and leave a nice even gap between the aileron and
the gap seal piece.
I refitted my first gap seal, Originally I installed it while the wing
was in the jig and thought I had a perfect match but after I finished
the wing and layed it flat on saw horses with the aileron attached I was
not happy with the fit. I removed the gap seal and refit both the
aileron and seal. In fact I a couple sets of aileron brackets before I
was satisfied.
On my second wing I didn't attach the gap seal until I could lay the
wing on the saw horses and really give it a good "eyeball" as well a
precise measurement. I got this one right the first time.
One other thing. You're at the stage now when dimensions given in the
plans may not always be what's best for you. Use the dimensions for
guidelines, measure and fit your components to properly fit your
airframe. As Ken once told me, visualize what the end product needs to
be and work to that end. Just remember the basics. Rivet spacing,
polish aluminum edges ets.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System |
>reaction to some of the chemicals. He's looking for a fresh air system that
>has some sort of hood/mask that would cover his eyes as well as his nose and
>mouth. I remember that there has been discussion of a "Hobby Air" system on
>the list before, but I didn't pay attention to the particulars.
>Rod Woodard
Rod,
I have a Hobbyair and it works very well. I have just the half mask but
I'm sure they offer the full hood design, as well. The brochure that I have
prices the unit at $279.00 (1/2 mask). Pretty cheap when you consider a new
set of lungs cost, what? --- $100,000?? The phone number is: 800-462-2471
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
| Subject: | Beginner priming questions |
Hi David,
For some reason I can't email you directly, so hopefully there're are
others that this will help. Most is in the archieves also... (not that
I'd want to search on Pr*mer again!).
>From talking to people, using a self etching primer, and skipping the
alumiprep, many people skip the alodine process also. I do the etch
myself, and the alodine isn't much more work so I do it also. I think I
understand, from a Gil "what a resource!" Alexander, that alodine
protects against filiform (sp?) corrosion, but I'm unsure if chemicals
in different primers do so as well.
I use two methods of spraying, hints from someone on the list. An auto
touch-up gun ($25-30) for the skin priming, and a Badger airbrush (found
in a hobby shop for $20), with an adapter for the compressor, for
everything else. Little overspray, and works great for unseen primer.
Additionally, Ed Cole suggested I put my primer in those water bottles
with the pull-out tops, fround at the grocery store. Talk about easy!
EB #80131 Empennage
------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 04-24-97 FROM SMTPGATE @MAILMN (theredbaron(at)204.119.177.28)
Hello all,
I am taking delivery of an RV-8 emp kit today and have some basic
questions on priming. Is it 'recommended' to alumiprep, then alodine,
then prime or can I leave out a step and still come out with a decent,
corrosion resistant airplane. I work for Gulfstream Aerospace and we do
all three but these aircraft also have a 20 year corrosion guarantee
(and are $35 million so the added expense is irrelevant). Can I use a
cheap auto sprayer for priming? Where is a good place to buy in bulk at
a low price? I only have an aircraft spruce catalog right now and I dont
know if their prices are that good. Can I use zinc oxide? Sorry if
these are extremely basic questions - ya gotta start somewhere right!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Beginner priming questions |
David,
How do I email you directly? I tried using the above, but my mail handler
choked.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginner priming questions |
>> Is it 'recommended' to alumiprep, then alodine, then prime or can I
leave out a step and still come out with a decent, corrosion resistant
airplane. <<
You'll get many different answers from this crowd but here is mine. My
research says that if I "alumiprep" (I'm using the equivalent
Sherwinn-Williams product), rinse and prime with a 2 part self etching
primer I should be more than covered for my lifetime and probably beyond.
Once again, I'm using the Sherwinn-Williams Industrial Primer Wash as my
primer of choice. For a gun I bought the small touch up gun sold at Sears
for $49.00. Avery list, what looks like, the same gun in their catalog for
about the same price.
Do a search in the archives under Primer then sit back and read for an hour
or so. You'll get all the information you'd ever care to see.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 brake reservoir location - anywhere... |
>A question regarding the location of the VA-107 brake fluid reservoir
>on the RV-6: Dwg #49 shows the reservoir located near the top of the
>firewall, above the level of the longerons. Dwg #40 shows it below the
>level of the longerons. Which is correct? Does it matter?
No. Just needs to be above the master cylinders. I'm goiing to install mine
after engine stuff just because its location is so flexible. Keep it is to
inspect and fill.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System |
Bob,
I dont know anything about these systems. What is the source of the
supplied air? Does it draw air from your shop compressor? If so I assume you
need to route your compressor air intake outside your shop to avoid
recycling the same old fume laden air.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Pretty cheap when you consider a new
>set of lungs cost, what? --- $100,000?? The phone number is: 800-462-2471
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)tenet.edu> |
| Subject: | RMI Instruments in -6 |
I have been reading the comments about the RMI microencoder and
micromonitor with a great deal of interest, and had the opportunity to
see the completed instruments courtesy of Carroll Bird the other evening.
The only questions I had were:
1. Will the width of the cockpit allow the display to be seen from either
seat, or is it only visible from the pilot's seat?
2. For those who have mounted the RMI instruments, where did you locate
them in the -6s for the best visibility?
Although I am a long way from instruments, the type and layout of the
panel still crosses my mind. I would appreciate any comments or
experiences you may have.
BTW, Carroll did a great job assembling his instruments. Not only do I
appreciate his help, but I am overwhelmed by the vast knowledge on this
list, and can't tell you how much you have helped a first timer get started.
Wes Hays
whays(at)tenet.edu
RV-6A working on left wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
>Bottom skin? Did I mount my aileron upside down, or did you? Thanks
>for the other info, tho.
>
>PatK - RV-6A
Hmmm...me have bright red face now. I meant top skin.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
Mark,
Wish you had posted this about a month sooner. Have you had second thoughts
about sending your recommendations on fuse former fitting? I'm still hoping
to get this info (as are several others).
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Fit the skin to the dimensions shown - 2 9/16" will work.
>
>Want to know an easier way to attach the thing? You have already noticed that
>the gap seal fits between the spar and the top skin. Simply use this row of
>rivets to attach the gap seal, and delete the (hard to buck) row aft of the
>spar.
>
>Check six!
>Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Items For Sale... |
Matte,
I am interested in two things. What are people contributing to keep the list
up and could you mail me information on the RV related products your company
offers.
My Mailing address is:
Shelby Smith
3809 Brighton Rd
Nashville, TN 37205-2529
Thanks,
Shelby in Nashivlle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 brake reservoir location |
A question was received from Randall Henderson:
> A question regarding the location of the VA-107 brake fluid reservoir
> on the RV-6: Dwg #49 shows the reservoir located near the top of the
> firewall, above the level of the longerons. Dwg #40 shows it below the
> level of the longerons. Which is correct? Does it matter? What have
> others done?
What is important is that the reservoir be accessible (to check level, add
fluid) and be the highest point in the system. Don't get hung up on Van's
drawings. There are infinite possibilities for locating things on the
firewall. Tony Bingelis's book has a good "drawing" on a RV-6A firewall
showing the locations of everything, if you'd like a reference.
By the way, it doesn't have to be on the firewall - as long as it meets the
above criteria.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
Pat, I had less than a 1/4" clearance to my ailerons. I called Vans
about it and was told to make the gap like the drawing pictured. They
said I wanted an adequate gap to get airflow over the ailerons at low
speeds. It's a gap "fairing" not a "seal".I trimed mine flush with the
flange but have heard of some people sandwitching it between the spar
and top-skin to eliminate a rivet line
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
Fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | So! Just how fast is that thing? |
OK! HELLO RACE FANS!
The Texas 100 will be held Sunday, 4 May , 1997 at Georgetown, TX (GTU).
Pre-race briefing will be held at Pilot's Choice aviation at 0900 hrs.
Expected launch will be at 1030 hrs.
Classes will be determined from the variety of entries. Evenly matched
aircraft will race in the same class. The fastest aircraft will launch first,
slowest last. This will keep passing to a minimum.
The course is 100 miles long, set up to be a tri-angle. Operate at full
throttle, turn left.
Entry fee is $20.
Contact me with any questions you may have.
Get yer wax out! Start rubbing now!
Check six!
Mark
mlfred(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
Robert Acker wrote:
>
> I just attacked this on my QB wing last evening. The plans don't call for
> the gap seal fitting between the spar web and bottom skin (although it sure
> looks like it would fit nicely there...trouble is my bottom skin is already
> riveted to the rear spar ).
Bottom skin? Did I mount my aileron upside down, or did you? Thanks
for the other info, tho.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Actually, I found a sharpen popsickle stick is just the tning to scrap the
Proseal/PRC off. The cured rubber is soft, and shears fairly easily.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
>>
Jim-
I tried you popsickle stick ideal and it pop every fingernail off. Damn it
hurts !
Any ideal how to get it off your hands ??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 brake reservoir location |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> A question regarding the location of the VA-107 brake fluid reservoir
> on the RV-6: Dwg #49 shows the reservoir located near the top of the
> firewall, above the level of the longerons. Dwg #40 shows it below the
> level of the longerons. Which is correct? Does it matter? What have
> others done?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6
> randall(at)edt.com
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
Randall, I've tried to attach a URL from Hovans homepage. It is a
series of photo's of Bingelis 6 engine compartment. You'll see he
attached his reservoir above the firewall longeron on the tilted part of
the firewall.
http://rv.austin.apple.com/jhovan/completed/teng.html
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Barnard Aircraft Address |
I didn't post this because I thought you all saw Steve's post yesterday. It's:
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
Like I said before I had to upgrade my server but now I'm state of the art
too!
(At least for a week.........Maybe?) Al prober(at)iwaynet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System |
> I dont know anything about these systems. What is the source of the
>supplied air? Does it draw air from your shop compressor?
>Mike Wills
Mike,
There is a separate air pump that goes outside the building which works
fine as long as the packing plant lagoon fumes are not in the neighborhood:(
The unit has a filter on it.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Houston Bay Area RVators |
Well, after a bit of down time, the Houston Bay Area RVators Builder's Group=
is about to be
operational again. Rob Lee, our loving founder and coordinator, sold his RV=
-6A (N517RL)
a couple of months back and passed on the reins to his loyal followers. For=
some reason I
can't quite understand, I volunteered to get the operation organized again.
=
SO, if you live in the greater Houston area, particularly the south end (tha=
t's where the
bay is), we would love to have you join our band of merry builders. Our nex=
t meeting is
tentatively scheduled for May 29, the Thursday following Memorial Day. I wi=
ll be mailing
out a newsletter to all current members.
You can get additional information about the group from the HBAR web site:
=
http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar
I will post a reminder here on the list when the meeting particulars are fir=
med up. I look
forward to seeing you in May.
Steven Spruell
RV-6A #24721
(Wings)
****************************************************************************=
**
* Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation =
*
* Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center =
*
* Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700=
*
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002 =
*
****************************************************************************=
**
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginner priming questions |
David J. Fitzgerald wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I am taking delivery of an RV-8 emp kit today and have some basic
> questions on priming. Is it 'recommended' to alumiprep, then alodine,
> then prime or can I leave out a step and still come out with a decent,
> corrosion resistant airplane. I work for Gulfstream Aerospace and we do
> all three but these aircraft also have a 20 year corrosion guarantee
> (and are $35 million so the added expense is irrelevant). Can I use a
> cheap auto sprayer for priming? Where is a good place to buy in bulk at
> a low price? I only have an aircraft spruce catalog right now and I dont
> know if their prices are that good. Can I use zinc oxide? Sorry if
> these are extremely basic questions - ya gotta start somewhere right!
Hi David,
I use a phosphoric acid solution called "All Brite" for the etching.
Then spray a good quality etching primer (purchased by the gallon at an
automotive paint supply house). I use a touchup gun for small tasks,
and a regular full-sized sprayer if I've got large areas to do.
Good luck
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Barnard Aircraft website |
>
>Guys,
>After about three hours of downloading and setting up Internet Explorer
>with Frames I was finally able to get on the Barnard Aircraft website. It's
>really state of the art and worth the effort. I would like to welcome Steve
>to the RV-List and I really think he will be another valuable resource for
>us all to draw upon. Al
>
Hi Al,
Thank you very much for the great comments. I'm glad you liked the
webside. Hope
most people have a speaker system hooked up to their computer to listen to
the intro-
duction. I am honored to be on the RV-list. I hope I can be of help. I've
been
around RV's for ten years now, building and flying. The RV-6A pictured on
the website
is now 6 years old. It's gone thru many modifications. It gets better
every day.
For those that have received and read the current Sport Aviation with the
SX-300
on the front, the Fluid Dynamics article was done on this particular
airplane. If
you have any questions please let me know.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT Gauge Operations |
According to my Lycoming Engine Operating Handbook the following engine
limits are listed for a 160 hp O-320.
ENGINE OPERATING LIMITS
RPM: 2700=20
FUEL PRESSURE: .5 - 8.0 PSI; 3 PSI DESIRED
CYLINDER TEMP.: 260=BA C; 220=BA C CONTINUOUS
OIL PRESSURE: 60 - 90 PSI; 25 PSI - IDLE
OIL TEMPERATURE: 118=BA C; 82=BA C DESIRABLE
EGT: MAX POWER 75% - 83=BA C RICH OF PEAK
ECONOMY POWER - 28=BA C RICH OF PEAK
Jim Cone, RV-6A flying.
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to fit fwd elevator push tube - Quickbuild?? |
Take the rod ends off and it is a tight fit, but it will go in.
Jim Cone, RV-6A completed 40 hour test period; flying great!!!
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild primer (was Painting a Quickbuild) |
>
>Bill Benedict wrote:
>> snipped
>
>The quickbuilds are primed with a Sherwin Williams
>> primer. If you run your fingers over an interior surface you will see that
>> it feels rougher than running your fingers over the exterior surface. This
>> roughness is the primer. Bill
>>
>>Bill,
>What is the exact Sherwin Williams product used on the quickbuilds?
>
>Charlie Kuss
It is the same one we have listed in the front of the builders manual.
P60G2. I think there has been a lot of discussion in the past. This is
probably not the best, but it works pretty good, inexpensive, light,
resists acetone, fairly abraisive resistent. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT Gauge Operations |
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
writes:
><rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net>
>
>I've installed a new Westach EGT/CHT gauge. Seeing how I've never
>used one
>before and seeing how Westach doesn't provide any operating
>instructions, I
>need some help in using it. This gauge is connected to my Lyc. 0-320
>160hp
>on the back #3 cylinder.. What are the normal or maximum temperatures
>to
>be observed.? Any suggestions on how to use it would be appreciated.
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Ron Caldwell
>rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
>
Hi Ron,
First the disclaimer. This is info from a '92-'93 Aircraft Spruce
catalog I bought back then (spent over $500, but no newer catalogs
since). In the instruments section, there are some gauges by Rochester
Gauge that are marked for Lycoming engines. For the CHT, Green Arc:
275*-425*F, Yellow Arc: 425*-500*F, Red Line: 500*F. Can't help with the
EGT. FWIW, I have read somewhere that there are two types of
thermocouples for the CHT, a bayonet style and a ring for the spark
plug. The bayonet style is said to be more accurate than the ring style.
Probably the best thing to do would be to consult with Lycoming for the
accuracy of these figures and for the EGT figures.
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginner priming questions |
David J. Fitzgerald wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I am taking delivery of an RV-8 emp kit today and have some basic
> questions on priming. Is it 'recommended' to alumiprep, then alodine,
> then prime or can I leave out a step and still come out with a decent,
> corrosion resistant airplane. I work for Gulfstream Aerospace and we do
> all three but these aircraft also have a 20 year corrosion guarantee
> (and are $35 million so the added expense is irrelevant). Can I use a
> cheap auto sprayer for priming? Where is a good place to buy in bulk at
> a low price? I only have an aircraft spruce catalog right now and I dont
> know if their prices are that good. Can I use zinc oxide? Sorry if
> these are extremely basic questions - ya gotta start somewhere right!
Try your local automotive paint supplier for Veriprime and solvents.
Most local Do-it -yourself places have an Automotive Touch Up gun for
around $25.00. Or try Harbor Freight.
Ed Cole RV6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | 5 point Hooker Harness |
At Sun & Fun this year I spoke with a rep from Hooker Harnesses about
fitting a five point harness to my RV6a. He said several RV6 builders have
already done this, but he didn't know the details. Has anyone out there in
listland done this, and if so could you share the crotch strap mounting
detail with me. I would like to plan for this while I still have good
access to the fuselage skeleton structure. TIA
-Gene Gottschalk
geneg(at)oz.kis.net
RV6A, Fuselage STILL in the jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure Gauges |
George,
You have one of the older "good stuff" kind of gauge. Most of the new things
are basically throw aways with no adjustments. They also do not have internal
bellows. I threw out a new UMA manifold pressure gauge because of incessant
sticking. Also threw out a new tach that was off 500 rpm from day one because
it could not be adjusted. My replacements were older units that were
repairable/adjustable. Never had any more problems in the 300+ hours before I
sold my first RV-6A.
Les Williams/RV-6AQBME/N24LW (reserved)/Tacoma WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of George McNutt
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 1997 12:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: Manifold Pressure Gauges
More about Manifold Pressure Gauges.
The Manifold Pressure gauge in my Cessna 182 was stickey with the indication
lagging behind power changes, I discovered that recessed inside the inlet port
is a needle valve that can be adjusted with a small screwdriver. I presume all
gauges are similar.
Purpose of the valve is to dampen out pressure fluctuations in the manifold
pressure line. If the valve is open too far the manifold pressure needle will
fluctuate with pulses in the line, too tight or dirty and the gauge sticks or
lags behind power changes.
Half a turn with a screwdriver is a lot cheaper than taking the gauge to a
instrument shop!
George McNutt
HS - 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System |
Mike Wills wrote:
(snip)...Does it draw air from your shop compressor? If so I assume you need to
route your
compressor air intake outside your shop to avoid recycling the same old fume laden
air.
--------------------------
Mike:
IMHO You might not want to continously breathe air from your compressor even if
the intake was
from a clean source. If it is oil lubricated it will be pumping hydrocarbons into
your lungs.
Compressors are not very sophisitcated technology and pass a lot of oil, water,
rust and other
crud.
The hobby air is made for human consumption. It uses a diaphram pump and provides
oil-free,
clean air to you.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
There was some talk recently about replacing gascolators with in line
filters.
In Canada we unfortunately don't have that option and a gascolatpor is
a requirement (silly really as its not the lowest point in the system).
Anyway, I want to get my gascolator out of the engine compartment and I
believe I've heard of someone mounting it between the wing and the
fuselage.
Can anyone confirm that this is possible?
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
Here's a new subject for you all... I am due for a medical(3rd class) in
May and am concerned because I have been on a doctors prescribed
medication of diet medicine known as Phen-Phen. Has anyone heard of the
FAA having a problem with this medication. I'd like to know so I dont
risk losing my medical.
Thanks all
--
Rick Osgood
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
We're all building airplanes and no one is building their own fresh air system?
Am I missing something? Okay, then, what is it I don't understand?
Block diagram:
Cheapo vacuum cleaner extra hose Mask (pith helmet
new $50 to outdoors & heavy plastic bag)
Total under $90. Will generate way more air than I can breath.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed loveday <eloveday(at)ici.net> |
| Subject: | re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness |
Gene,
Don't know if Hooker makes such a rig, but most harnesses in use these
days in small sports racing and formula cars are 6pt systems, incorporating
leg straps that loop from the central latch around your thighs and back to
the lap belt anchors.
If Hooker doesn't make them, Simpson and SPA are 2 manufacturers that
do, and I'm sure there are more.
Ed Loveday
eloveday(at)ici.net
RV-6 fuselage 90% done-45% to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 brake reservoir location |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>A question regarding the location of the VA-107 brake fluid reservoir
>on the RV-6: Dwg #49 shows the reservoir located near the top of the
>firewall, above the level of the longerons. Dwg #40 shows it below
>the level of the longerons. Which is correct? Does it matter? What
have
>others done?
I mounted mine above, although it would work below also. It takes up
less room above, so I'd do it that way again. Just make sure you mount
it high enough above the angle that runs along the upper part of the
firewall so that the "T" fitting that will screw in to the reservoir
won't hit the angle while you're trying to screw it in. Go ahead, ask me
how I know...
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen COM Antenna |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>I discovered that I only have about 19-20" vertical space available on
>my sliding canopy windscreen for my copper foil COM antenna if I mount
>it on the centerline. Yet, Vans' instructions call for 23" for COM
>frequencies.
Hi John, actually you don't need 23" of foil. The antenna should be 23"
overall from the solder point on the BNC connector according to the
instructions. So just use 20" of foil and a 3" piece of wire to connect
it to the connector. I use this antenna, and I like it a lot. I don't
even notice it visually, it works great, and no drag! How can you lose?
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
What is the reason to used a 0 360 vs I0 360. I am new and learning about
this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Fresh Air System |
The hobby air is made for human consumption. It uses a diaphram pump and provides
oil-free,
clean air to you.
The Hobby Air uses a centrifugal turbine to push clean air. It pushes more
air than you can breath, and the excess is dumped out through one-way valves
on the mask. I have the standard mask (not the full-face mask) and use a
Tyvex hood over my head and the mask. The excess air inflates the hood, and
exhausts fresh air down around your shoulders. The hood came with tear-offs
for the clear shield. BTW, the motor on the turbine unit is NOT cooled by
the air you breathe, but by a separate fan. The inlet air is not purified,
(only lightly filtered) so you have to place the turbine unit in an area of
fresh air, upwind, outside the booth, etc. A 40' hose is supplied on the
standard unit, and they offer a high output unit to supply 2 masks on a wye,
or 80' of hose to one mask. The light intake filter keeps things like bees and
mosquitoes out of the hood.
On a hot day, you can wear Tyvex coveralls, and vent the cool exhaust
from the hood down your collar and into the coveralls! For me, painting has
become almost FUN. No more fogged up glasses, dripping sweat into the paint
job, changing filter canisters, or paint mist leaks in the mask around the
nose. I have to suit up, but it makes me organize my paint sessions to larger
batches as they should be anyway.
I bought mine at Oshkosh '94 as an introductory offer, for painting R/C model
aircraft. The RV just seemed to come along naturally.
I hope I haven't sounded too much like a salesman. I'm not. ...just enthusiastic.
Look at the respirator that you are now using (you ARE using one, aren't you?)
and
ask yourself when you last changed the canisters. Activated charcoal canisters
start to degrade as soon as you open the wrapper, and absence of paint smell in
the
mask is no indication that you are not inhaling harmful paint components. Read
the product info on paints containing isocyanates (Imron, Urethane)....especially
the part about a fresh air respirator being REQUIRED. When I considered the price
of the Hobby Air at Oshkosh, the salesman asked me, "What is the cost of just one
emergency room visit?" .....Sold!
Darrell Anderson
RV-4, wings
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness |
> Don't know if Hooker makes such a rig, but most harnesses in use these
days in small sports racing and formula cars are 6pt systems, incorporating
leg straps that loop from the central latch around your thighs and back to
the lap belt anchors.<
My local FSDO is requiring TSO'd belts/harnesses! Is this
common around the country? I think the inspector is either
ignorant of the experimental category, or wants to shed the
responsibility of approving non-aircraft items, no matter
how well tested and documented.
What are the relevant FAR's on this?
D. Anderson
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark S. Malone" <mmalane(at)dialus.com> |
| Subject: | Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
I am in the process of purchasing a pre-manufactured avionics panel for
RV6A. This is going to be a fully loaded IFR panel with all the
goodies. I want to make sure I am dealing with the correct people if
I'm going to spend this kind of money. Has anybody had good or bad luck
with Complete Composites or Eastern Avionics?
Thanks for the help
Mark Malone
mmalone(at)dialus.com
Springfield, Mo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
>
>Anyway, I want to get my gascolator out of the engine compartment and I
>believe I've heard of someone mounting it between the wing and the
>fuselage.
>
>Can anyone confirm that this is possible?
Yes, "The Rvator", August 1996, page 10. has the photo if you have access to
that. I personally think something like that is better place than in the
engine compartment. One of the factory types had a completely enclosed
little box that was accessable from the the outside. Lots of work but
another solution. I giving some thought a look thru filter in a enclsure in
the cockpit with an access door for pre flight and a drain hole to the
outside in case of leakage....or.....the above Rvator type...or...?
If you don't have access to a picture of the Rvator one, send me your
address and send you a copy.
Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
> Anyway, I want to get my gascolator out of the engine compartment and I
> believe I've heard of someone mounting it between the wing and the
> fuselage.
>
> Can anyone confirm that this is possible?
Ken:
I think Eustace Bowhay did this. Check with him?
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Planner |
The number is 208-323-8724, be ready with your credit card. The Pro
version is $199 and outputs DXF files. For those of you with a CAD program
you can then modify or make-up new items. They can also recommend a place
to laser cut your panel using the file.
----------
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: Morristec
> Subject: RV-List: Avionics Panel Planner
> Date: Monday, April 21, 1997 10:28 PM
>
>
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com [163.179.3.4] by bbs.icdc.com with
smtp
> Received: from matronics.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with UUCP
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> Message-Id: <335C35D9.4C45(at)dialus.com>
> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 22:51:53 -0500
> From: "Mark S. Malone" <dialus.com!mmalone(at)matronics.com>
> Organization: Malone Finkle & Associates, Inc.
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Avionics Panel Planner
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Ready for avionics panel. Need software to layout panel prior to
> fabrication. Found Panel Planner software in Jetstream catalog but is
> on back order. Does anyone know of another software package or Panel
> Planners phone no. so I can call MFG direct?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Gauges |
<< You have one of the older "good stuff" kind of gauge. Most of the new
things
are basically throw aways with no adjustments. They also do not have
internal
bellows. I threw out a new UMA manifold pressure gauge because of incessant
sticking. Also threw out a new tach that was off 500 rpm from day one
because
it could not be adjusted. My replacements were older units that were
repairable/adjustable. Never had any more problems in the 300+ hours before
I
sold my first RV-6A. >>
Let's give a big hurrah for "Value Engineering". Every thing gets beaten
down to the lowest common denominator. I fight this philosophy every day at
work and see it in many of the name brands I used to buy. It's unlikely that
this trend will turn around, but I can try in my little corner of the world.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Goeddel <tgoeddel(at)monmouth.com> |
>medication of diet medicine known as Phen-Phen. Has anyone heard of the
>FAA having a problem with this medication. I'd like to know so I dont
>risk losing my medical.
You might try giving AOPA a call - they have folks there just for answering
medical related questions. I found them helpful when I had a problem
(non-problem as it turned out) a few years ago.
Tom Goeddel
RV-6a
tgoeddel(at)monmouth.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness |
To the list,
I sell Schroth restraint systems seatbelts, and I have a kit for the 5th
point in the RV-6. I also can offer the leg loop style of restraint. All
are custom made to your requirements, and are TSO/ JTSO C-114 approved.
The restraint releases are the "center turn" style. The restraints offer
additional safety features. Anyone who wants info please Email me at
Morristec(at)aol.com. I can Email attached Jpeg file of buckle and mail other
info. If the list wants info published please request and I will.
BTW, the reason that the FAA generally requires a TSO'd seat belt is that
otherwise you would have to prove the strength of the belts (required to be
1500# plus). While this is not written directly in the FAR's, we are
required to follow general practices for items like this.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)aol.com
----------
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: Morristec
> Subject: RV-List: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness
> Date: Friday, April 25, 1997 4:44 PM
>
>
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com [163.179.3.12] by bbs.icdc.com with
smtp
> Received: from matronics.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with UUCP
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 25 Apr 1997 17:51:21 -0400 (EDT)
> Message-Id: <1.5.4.16.19970425174241.138f7744@mail>
> X-Sender: eloveday@mail
> X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (16)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> From: ed loveday <ici.net!eloveday(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
>
> Gene,
> Don't know if Hooker makes such a rig, but most harnesses in use
these
> days in small sports racing and formula cars are 6pt systems,
incorporating
> leg straps that loop from the central latch around your thighs and back
to
> the lap belt anchors.
> If Hooker doesn't make them, Simpson and SPA are 2 manufacturers
that
> do, and I'm sure there are more.
>
> Ed Loveday
> eloveday(at)ici.net
> RV-6 fuselage 90% done-45% to go
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 brake reservoir location |
While you're being sure to mount it high enough so the tee clears the angle
.... be sure to not mount it so high you can't get fluid in the cap which
will then be too close to the projecting overhang of top fuse skin... Ask me
how I know. Is there an echo in here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & |
bag?
You guys with the QB kit have too much time on your hands. Back when I was
building my RV-6 I didn't have time to think of things like how to make my
own hobbyair.
Should work, though. One concern might be generation of ozone by the motor.
You'd probably smell that fairly soon, though.
Hey, you could make cheaper hobbyairs for us and make enough to pay for the QB.
JA
>
>We're all building airplanes and no one is building their own fresh air
system?
>Am I missing something? Okay, then, what is it I don't understand?
>
>Block diagram:
>
> Cheapo vacuum cleaner extra hose Mask (pith helmet
> new $50 to outdoors & heavy plastic bag)
>
>
>Total under $90. Will generate way more air than I can breath.
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
>
>
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piper Blade Pitot Tube |
Thanks James!
Your comments are appreciated. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll make it
work!
Yours sounds great!
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Rick,
I was considering going on the new diet drug "Redux". My family doctor,
who is not an AME, wanted my to consider it. I checked with the FAA in
Oklahoma City. They told me that I could not fly while on the drug, and
that even after I quit taking it, I would have to wait 6 months, and submit
the results of several tests. I guess I'll keep trying good old will
power. You could contact the Aeromedical Division of the FAA at (405)
954-4821. They really are quite helpful over the phone. Good luck.
Joe Rex
----------
> From: Rick Osgood <ccc.henn.tec.mn.us!Rick(at)matronics.com>
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: FAA Medical
> Date: Friday, April 25, 1997 3:59 PM
>
>
> Here's a new subject for you all... I am due for a medical(3rd class) in
> May and am concerned because I have been on a doctors prescribed
> medication of diet medicine known as Phen-Phen. Has anyone heard of the
> FAA having a problem with this medication. I'd like to know so I dont
> risk losing my medical.
>
> Thanks all
> --
> Rick Osgood
> Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness |
>My local FSDO is requiring TSO'd belts/harnesses! Is this
>common around the country? I think the inspector is either
>ignorant of the experimental category, or wants to shed the
>responsibility of approving non-aircraft items, no matter
>how well tested and documented.
>
Hooker's are TSO'd, I've had a 5 point in my 4 since day one. In the 4 you
can tie the 5th point into the spar splice. I got longer spar bolts and
built a steel plate that fastens to 2 of the spar bolts. Very easy to do.
When I had my seats made I had a slot built in the seat so the strap could
run throug it.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | New Unison LASAR ignition RPM signal |
Can anyone out there help on this question;
I would like to use the RPM signal, generated for the ignition
controller, to run an analog display electronic tach.
1. Does anyone know any e-mail, phone #, FAX # or slo-mail
address for the appropriate technical people at
Lycoming or Slick who can help me answer the question?
2. Any ideas about the interfacing possibilities of
the analog tach to the provided RPM signal would be
appreciated.
Thank You,
Ron Vandervort, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
RV-6Q, Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyingw <flyingw(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Size of R V 8 construction jigs. |
Could someone please tell me the size of the RV 8 empenage and wing jig
Im measureing up my workshop and a set of length width and height
measurements would give me an idea of my space.
Also the fugelage jig any ideas on the size of this .
Im using a single garage and the head room is not exactly to the moon.
Its around 7 and a half foot im hoping this will be enough.
Thanks
Warren Jones ( R V 8 Starting soon in Kiwiland )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L & M Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
Hi,
I need advice about the elevator horns. With the prepunched kit you do not
have the option to move or reposition any thing. Now my problem is if I
rivet the horns to the elevators the other end (of the horns) does not make
a tight fit around the bearing in the centre of the VS rear spar. Could
some body tell me if it acceptable to place spacers between bearings and
horns????? If not any suggestions what I might do would be greatly
appreciated.
Les Rowles.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)hcds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0 360 vs I0 360 |
aol.com!STANAIR(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> What is the reason to used a 0 360 vs I0 360. I am new and learning about
> this.
HORSEPOWER!
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Items For Sale... |
MAtt
Iam looking for a right angle air drill, used.. Do you know of anytrhing?
Iam backdrilling as much as possible so it would be very helpful.
Also I would like to talk to you someday about stepper motors to drive an
automatic
circle welder which we have two of at work..
Thanks.......Markvn @aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Fellow RV listers,
My RV-6 #21084 flew Friday morning for the first time. Test pilot Bill
Carter was at the controls. Needs a trim tab on the rudder.
After six and a half years of mostly enjoyable building, I am very
pleased and am looking forward to a great season.
In addition, on April 29 I am taking over the leadership of the Ontario
RV wing. I would like to trade news letters with any other group. Still
waiting "Jim Cone".
Terry Jantzi
C-GZRV flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
Ken,
Eustace Bowhay installed his gascolator between the wing and the
fuselage. There is a picture of it in a recent RVAtor.
Regretfully, there does not seem space to do so in the root of the RV-4
wing, although I am going to look at that more carefully soon.
ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I am due for a medical(3rd class) in
> May and am concerned because I have been on a doctors prescribed
> medication of diet medicine known as Phen-Phen. >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CWhig49723(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
<<
I am in the process of purchasing a pre-manufactured avionics panel for
RV6A. This is going to be a fully loaded IFR panel with all the
goodies. I want to make sure I am dealing with the correct people if
I'm going to spend this kind of money. Has anybody had good or bad luck
with Complete Composites or Eastern Avionics?
Thanks for the help
>>
I have had some experience with Eastern years ago and was completely
satisfied .
Chuck Whigham
RV 6A
waiting for wing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I am due for a medical(3rd class) in
> May and am concerned because I have been on a doctors prescribed
> medication of diet medicine known as Phen-Phen. >>
Joe Rex responded<< They are really quite helpful over the phone. >>
Remember -" I am from the FAA and I am here to help you." That is what they
told Bob Hoover.
If you call them I would not give my right name !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
Been to the Archives on this but latest posting there for my keyword
search was Jan '96; need current opinion/experience on subject of
specifically where to run wiring (strobe-position lights, possibly
antenna) through wing. Am currently prepping ribs for wing skeleton
assembly and Archive opinion on: (1) where to run conduit; (2) what to
use for conduit left me with plenty of notes but no real answers.
I plan to use the strobes with separate power supplies in wing tips and
AC will be VFR only. Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts on
this.
Jim RV6A New Mexico hurd(at)riolink.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0 360 vs I0 360 |
> =3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: STANAIR(at)aol.com
>
> What is the reason to used a 0 360 vs I0 360. I am new and learning abo=
ut
> this.
The IO-360 (fuel injected) Lycoming is a 200 hp angle-valve engine in most v=
ariants
(though there are some 180 hp straight-valve versions). Van's does not reco=
mmend using
the 200 hp motor because of the possibility of exceeding Vne in level flight=
. The
angle-valve engines are slightly wider and will not fit inside the stock RV =
cowl without
modification, though an IO-360 will bolt up to a stock RV dynafocal engine m=
ount.
However, I spoke with Steve Barnard of Barnard Aircraft Components this week=
and he is now
manufacturing an aftermarket cowling for the 6/6A which is designed to be us=
ed with the
200 hp IO-360. It has the round intake ports similar to the LoPresti Piper =
cowlings.
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
=
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar * =
*************************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Size of R V 8 construction jigs. |
Warren,
I have found that the RV-8 empennage jig as illustrated in the RV-8 empennage
construction manual will be of inadequate size for the wing. The inside
dimension of 109 " will not be long enough for the wings. The empennage
construction manual was apparently written before the second set of RV-8
wings was built by the factory, hence the error. You will find chatter on
this topic in the RV List Archives if you conduct a search.
In geneneral, we RV builders can get too fussy about the jigs they build for
construction of RV components. What is important however, is that the
components constructed be aligned precisely on the jig. This is possible on
even a crooked jig. I recommend that you plan on using a jig with a
crosspiece like the one shown in the builders manual for the empennage. If
you can, attach the vertical posts to the ceiling, this way, the vertical
alignment can be controlled to a large degree by moving the bottom of the
upright. Making a free stanging jig will be more difficult, but it can be
done. (I did) Another option would be to attach the vertical posts to the
wall with diagonal boards placed in a "V" at the top. Can you get good dry
wood to use for the jig? I could not, so I used square aluminum posts, which
was overkill. In retrospect, I could have laminated posts that were straight
& true out of plywood & pine boards. Steel posts would be fine also, whatever
you can find that is straight and long enough will be fine. Use a plumbob as
the contruction manual shows, this way you will be able to draw a line that
is in a perfect plane on the jig.
For the wing, you will not need a horizontal beam in the jig. I took a day
and made another jig that attached to the wall with an inside dimension of
about 112 1/2 inches. It stands far enough away from the wall so that working
on either side of the wing is easy in terms of access. I am building both
wings simultaneously, but I don't think this will be possible in the
workspace you describe.
Feel free to contact me directly off the list if you like. You will find more
information regarding the contruction of jigs in the RV List Archives at:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/archive.htm
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jon Ross RV-80094 Skinning wings now, agonizing over the price of an
IO-360...
Jross10612(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
Congrats Terry!
All the hard work paid off. I know you'll enjoy it.
Rob Miller
RV8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fresh Air Vents, Chroming of Flap Weldment |
I am in the process of refurbishing an RV-4 I bought, and would like to
chrome the flap weldment in the cockpit, but have been told this will make
the weldment more susceptible to cracking and failure. Is this true? I
noticed an number of them were chromed at Sun N Fun. Also, I'm trying to find
the small plastic eyeball type vents, the ones in my airplane are shot. Will
the ones from Vans fit into a 2-inch duct? I notice those are 3-inch square
which is a little large for my application. Anybody know where to get the
small 2 inch style? I see this one in metal for around 50.00 each, but I need
the inexpensive plastic variety. Thanks. MAlexan533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Size of R V 8 construction jigs. |
I believe mine was 109 inches.
Rob Miller
RV8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryon T. Maynard" <bmaynard(at)COMMUNIQUE.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
> We're all building airplanes and no one is building their own fresh air system?
> Am I missing something? Okay, then, what is it I don't understand?
>
> Block diagram:
>
> Cheapo vacuum cleaner extra hose Mask (pith helmet
> new $50 to outdoors & heavy plastic bag)
>
>
> Total under $90. Will generate way more air than I can breath.
>
> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
> halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
>
>
I used my Scuba tank and Regulator, and Dive mask. I look funny while
painting, but I am getting fresh air and the mask completely protects my
eyes. Cheap I know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness |
> If Hooker doesn't make them, Simpson and SPA are 2 manufacturers that
Try Diest Safety Equipment
641 Sonora Avenue
Glendale, CA 91201
213-245-6411
They do nice work, reasonable, and cooperative.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
>
> Cheapo vacuum cleaner extra hose Mask (pith helmet
> new $50 to outdoors & heavy plastic bag)
Hal,
Interesting idea - can you post your design thoughts?
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen COM Antenna |
> >I discovered that I only have about 19-20" vertical space available on
> >my sliding canopy windscreen for my copper foil COM antenna if I mount
Has anyone considered or tried mounting the foil outside of the
cockpit? Perhaps on the front of the cowl? I think it would need to
retain the vertical orientation. I'm not interesting in having the RF
right in my face, as the human eye is the most susceptible organ to
damage from RF.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0 360 vs I0 360 |
aol.com!STANAIR(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> What is the reason to used a 0 360 vs I0 360. I am new and learning about
> this.
"There's no replacement for displacement" (quote stolen from
hi-performance engine builder)
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
Terrance Jantzi wrote:
>
>
> Fellow RV listers,
>
> My RV-6 #21084 flew Friday morning for the first time. Test pilot Bill
> Carter was at the controls. Needs a trim tab on the rudder.
>
> After six and a half years of mostly enjoyable building, I am very
> pleased and am looking forward to a great season.
>
> In addition, on April 29 I am taking over the leadership of the Ontario
> RV wing. I would like to trade news letters with any other group. Still
> waiting "Jim Cone".
>
> Terry Jantzi
> C-GZRV flying
Congratulations!
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Bulkheads |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
writes:
>I have a question concerning the 2 piece bulkheads in the RV-4
>fuselage.
>When assembling these, my first inclination was to simply align the
>tooling
>holes, and hammer them together. I decided to be a little more
>scientific,
>however, and began using the drawing that showed the lofting of the
>individual bulkheads. When using these measurements, there were
>several
>bulkheads where the tooling holes did not line up, sometimes by as
>much a
>3/8". I went ahead and drilled the bulkheads, and "tacked" them
>together.
>I am beginning to wonder if I did the right thing.
Joe,
Absolutely do not trust the tooling holes in the fuselage bulkheads. I
clecoed my bulkhead halves to a workbench such that short aluminum angles
clamped to the notches matched the dimensions shown in the plans. I then
drilled and clecoed the halves together. Some of the tooling holes were
off by the diameter of the holes! This method worked very well. When I
skinned the fuselage, I needed only a couple of shims under the top skin.
However, some of the comments I read about drilling the bulkheads after
clamping things together on the jig look good. I will probably do that
next time.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
Terry wrote:
>My RV-6 #21084 flew Friday morning for the first time. Test pilot Bill
>Carter was at the controls. Needs a trim tab on the rudder.
Congrats Terry, another one in Ontario. Dr. John will be next I suspect.
See you at the Ontario Wing meeting.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
RV-6, DWG 37
Parts:
F-649 L&R Baggage Side Fwd
F-647 L&R Baggage Floor
Is the bottom bend of F-649 meant to sit under the F647 Baggage Floor or
on top of it?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness |
I've never used a 5-point harness, but my understanding is that one
important purpose of the crotch strap is to keep the tension on the
shoulder harness straps from pulling your lap belt up off your pelvis.
It seems to me that the use of leg loops in lieu of a crotch strap fails
to provide such protection. An article in a recent issue of FAAviation
News discusses these issues and points out that two recent fatalities in
nose-over ground accidents might have been non-fatal had the pilots'
restraints been properly tight
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved).
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Subj: RV-List: Wing Wiring
Date: 97-04-26 12:59:21 EDT
From: riolink.com!hurd(at)matronics.com (James K. Hurd)
Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
Jim RV6A New Mexico hurd(at)riolink.com
>>
Put the wiring runs forward of the spar outboard of the fuel tank and run a
conduit between the spar and fuel tank. This puts the wiring in front of the
spar when you enter the cabin and eliminates the problem of having to having
to go through the spar. You might also consider using a 1/2" or so run of
poly tubing for the counduit. This provides an extra layer of material for
chafing and you have the option if running wires through it once construction
is complete if the original cabling needs replacement etc. Saw this on a set
of professionally built wings and it worked out well.
DkSJC(at)aol.com
RV-4 finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
Vans sells the Lycoming O-360-A1A. Can this engine be converted to fuel
injection? If so would it still carry the designation O-360-A1A.
Thanks
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel lubrication |
Fellow RVers,
I'm in the process of fitting a new tail spring with Van's full swivel
tailwheel to replace my Aviation Products tailwheel installation. The paint
is curing and I should have it on the RV-6 in a couple of days.
I have a question about grease distribution on the shaft of the tail wheel
fork. I'm sure the non-full swivel tailwheel is similar. Have any of you
"old timers" checked this shaft for wear? Is the grease evenly distributed?
On the full swivel, the grease zerk is at the top of the shaft. It seems
that the grease would have trouble migrating to the bottom of the shaft.
Would it make sense to put a "path" for the grease to follow, either down on
the shaft or down the brass bushing? I was thinking about "grooving" a path
with a small burr on a Dremel tool from the grease zerk, down. Tommorrow, I
think I'll dis-assemble the Aviation Product tail wheel and give the list a
report on how it's holding up.
I want this tailwheel weldment to last as long as possible. I'm about out
of the extra "touch up paint" that I saved when I painted my plane. I don't
want to have to worry about replacing worn parts for a long, long time and I
don't want to eventually have to buy a quart of paint just to paint a new fork.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Steel pipe fittings on motor |
I just had my EAA tech inspector look over my -6A in the motor installation
and million detail stage. His only comment was on the fittings used where
hoses attach to the motor.
His comment was that it is highly recommended that all the fittings attaching
hoses to the motor should be steel, not aluminum. He also said where the
hoses were relatively short, the fittings on the firewall attached piece
would be better as steel, especially if there were no intermediate support on
the hose. This is based on fatigue failure of the fittings from the
vibration and torque loads, small as they should be, causing a problem over
time.
He has been flying a Long Eze he built for about 10years, and said the they
had a very strong recommendation from the factory to replace all their
aluminum with steel. He did before flying, except for the oil fitting just
below the oil filter.
What do the list pundits think about this? Tony's book doesn't say use
steel, (unless I missed it).
Bruce Patton
(About to add to the huge box of wrong fittings)
P.S. I sure can see why the second one takes about half the time of the
first. I have done everyting forward of the firewall at least twice!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
Its not been a problem on my RV6 and its been flying for over 400 hours.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness |
----------
> From: one.net!rust47rg(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness
> Date: Saturday, April 26, 1997 3:54 AM
>
>
>
> >My local FSDO is requiring TSO'd belts/harnesses! Is this
> >common around the country? I think the inspector is either
> >ignorant of the experimental category, or wants to shed the
> >responsibility of approving non-aircraft items, no matter
> >how well tested and documented.
> >
I am using seatbelts from Summit made for racing cars in my Skybolt. It's
a 5 point 3inch wide harness with aircraft style latch. It looks great and
best
of all only cost $56! I've been through the inspection process with three
FAA inspectors in Arizona and California and none made any comment about
TSO's belt requirements.
Marcus Cooper
RV-6 tail kit and left spar completed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Items For Sale... |
aol.com!MarkVN(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> MAtt
> Iam looking for a right angle air drill, used.. Do you know of anytrhing?
> Iam backdrilling as much as possible so it would be very helpful.
> Also I would like to talk to you someday about stepper motors to drive an
> automatic
> circle welder which we have two of at work..
>
> Thanks.......Markvn @aol.com
Hi Guys, I can't help you with the step motor but, I thought I'd pass
along this idea I picked up on somewhere on the net. I call it my Poor
mans right angle drill.
I use an 3/8 drive air ratchet with an adapter I made up. The adapter is
made from a 3/8" to 1/4" drive adapter from a cheap socket set I had. I
machined off the 1/4" square part, drill and tapped a hole to accept the
right angle drill bits.
This is not quite as short as a true right angle drill but has so far
gotten me through the empennage and wings at a small fraction of the
cost of a right angle drill.
Hope this helps, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)hcds.net> |
L & M Rowles wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I need advice about the elevator horns. With the prepunched kit you do not
> have the option to move or reposition any thing. Now my problem is if I
> rivet the horns to the elevators the other end (of the horns) does not make
> a tight fit around the bearing in the centre of the VS rear spar. Could
> some body tell me if it acceptable to place spacers between bearings and
> horns????? If not any suggestions what I might do would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Les Rowles.
Les
As I recall, somewhere in the manual Van's describes the use of washers
in this exact instance. Tell me, what would you do if it was to narrow
between the horns? Much better to have the excess room and shim.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A s/n 22993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
Terrance Jantzi wrote:
>
>
> Fellow RV listens,
>
> My RV-6 #21084 flew Friday morning for the first time. Test pilot Bill
> Carter was at the controls. Needs a trim tab on the rudder.
>
> After six and a half years of mostly enjoyable building, I am very
> pleased and am looking forward to a great season.
>
> In addition, on April 29 I am taking over the leadership of the Ontario
> RV wing. I would like to trade news letters with any other group. Still
> waiting "Jim Cone".
>
> Terry Jantzi
> C-GZRV flying
Congratulations, terry When I see notes like this I work a little
harder in the garage.
How does a fellow join the Ontario RV wing?
tailwinds, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
The IO 360 is injected and the 0-360 is carbuerated. The basic IO-360 is
the same HP as the 0-360, 180hp. The injection is more fuel efficient, no
carb ice, and works inverted. All good advantages. However, the injected
versions allhave the injector facing aft which won't work well in the RV
series. If you want injection try Airflow Performance injector on an
updraft sump.
Dan Morris
RV-6 fitting cowling
Morristec(at)icdc.com
----------
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: Morristec
> Subject: RV-List: O/IO 360?
> Date: Saturday, April 26, 1997 2:16 PM
>
>
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com [163.179.3.9] by bbs.icdc.com with
smtp
> Received: from matronics.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with UUCP
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> Message-Id: <33625E48.5D8@anet-chi.com>
> Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 14:58:01 -0500
> From: Glenn & Judi <anet-chi.com!flyers(at)matronics.com>
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: O/IO 360?
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Vans sells the Lycoming O-360-A1A. Can this engine be converted to fuel
> injection? If so would it still carry the designation O-360-A1A.
>
> Thanks
> Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cones' RV |
aol.com!JamesCone(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Jim Cone, RV-6A completed 40 hour test period; flying great!!!
> jamescone(at)aol.com
Jim
I was out at Van's Friday and saw a picture of your airplane
it really looks nice. Van has it framed and setting on the
customer desk for all to see when they come in the door.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers
I was in the paint store today to get something to clean the inside
of the fuel tank before I start the sealing-riviting process.
Seems like I read that alumiprep was the thing to use. PPG has
aluminum cleaner DX533, is this the same thing as alumiprep? the guy
at the store said it was. I need to know if I should buy this, or is
there something even better?
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators and Fuel Filters |
>
>Anyway, I want to get my gascolator out of the engine compartment and I
>believe I've heard of someone mounting it between the wing and the
>fuselage.
>Can anyone confirm that this is possible?
>Ken
Last year one issue of the RVator showed just such an installation. I plan
on putting mine there.
>RV6A Flying
And a very nice one at that (...spotted at sun'n'fun ) !!!
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> RV-6, DWG 37
>
> Parts:
> F-649 L&R Baggage Side Fwd
> F-647 L&R Baggage Floor
>
> Is the bottom bend of F-649 meant to sit under the F647 Baggage Floor or
> on top of it?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
>
> X-Mozilla-Status: 0010
> Content-Length: 1614
The easy way is for the sides to sit on top of the floor panels. The
other option is you can make all the "returns" of the floor panels and
side panels dissappear for a nice finished look.
However, you have to make the decision at the beginning because once you
begin drilling holes and installing nut plates the holes won't line up
if you change your mind. This also holds true for the floor panels and
the baggage compartment bulkhead (bottom flange)
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Flaherty <yogieb(at)pipeline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Unison LASAR ignition RPM signal |
>
> Can anyone out there help on this question;
>
> I would like to use the RPM signal, generated for the ignition
>controller, to run an analog display electronic tach.
> 1. Does anyone know any e-mail, phone #, FAX # or slo-mail
> address for the appropriate technical people at
> Lycoming or Slick who can help me answer the question?
> 2. Any ideas about the interfacing possibilities of
> the analog tach to the provided RPM signal would be
> appreciated.
>
>Thank You,
>Ron Vandervort, rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
>RV-6Q, Seattle area
>
>
>Ron.
The phone and fax number for Unison is as follows:
Phone 815-965-4700
Fax 815-965-2457
Mike
yogieb(at)pipeline.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen COM Antenna |
> Has anyone considered or tried mounting the foil outside of the
> cockpit? Perhaps on the front of the cowl?
Woah, neighbor! Can you say "ignition static pickup?" I knew you could.
Try the wingtips before you do this. IMHO you will be happier if the engine
is kept as far away from the receiving antennas as possible, and vice-versa.
I am not suggesting the engine(s) be moved to the wingtips, even though the
RV-10 is going to use that configuration.
Bill Boyd
**** cowling sticky-stuff ****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Steel pipe fittings on motor |
<< I just had my EAA tech inspector look over my -6A in the motor
installation
and million detail stage. His only comment was on the fittings used where
hoses attach to the motor.
His comment was that it is highly recommended that all the fittings
attaching
hoses to the motor should be steel, not aluminum. He also said where the
hoses were relatively short, the fittings on the firewall attached piece
would be better as steel, especially if there were no intermediate support
on
the hose.
Tony's book doesn't say use
steel, (unless I missed it). >>
Bruce-
Although not a pundit, I do have an opinion. I would be inclined to agree
with your EAA Tech Counselor that the -6 (3/8") and smaller fittings at the
engine which connect hoses running from the engine to the firewall should be
steel or stainless steel. For the -8 (1/2") and larger hose fittings, I
think they are robust enough in the D (aluminum) versions.
I erred on the side of caution and used all stainless at the engine for
everything. I ordered them from Rich Industries (listed in the Yeller
Pages) in commercial 37 degree JIC. Fairly reasonable prices.
Tony doesn't state in the text portion, but I see that in Fig 1 on pg 47 of
"ON Engines" he shows the non D (steel) fittings with the D (aluminum) as
alternate. If you look at the figure you will see that the 90 degree fitting
on the sender should be steel because the loads on the hose will try to break
it off at that attitude. A 45 degree fitting would be better here and could
be a D (aluminum) fitting, saving a few grams.
It really depends on how much your hose routing fights physics. If you are
unsure, add support and/or use steel or CRES.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cones' RV |
I have a question about the test period. I was told if you have a
certified engine it is only 25 hours, but, if you don't, then it is 40
hours. Is this correct?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Someone wrote (hopefully hiding their real name from the FAA)
> I was considering going on the new diet drug "Redux". My family doctor,
> who is not an AME, wanted my to consider it
*stuff cut*
> > I have been on a doctors prescribed
> > medication of diet medicine known as Phen-Phen. Has anyone heard of the
> > FAA having a problem with this medication. I'd like to know so I dont
> > risk losing my medical.
* more stuff cut *
I don't know about where you live, but in Virginia, your doctor had better be
VERY careful prescribing any diet medication so that he doesn't lose HIS
medical (license). The physician must prescribe these drugs only to patients
who have failed to lose weight on diet and excercise alone, are medically
suitable considering the possible side effects (not hypertensive), continuing
an excercise and diet plan (not relying on the pills alone) and there must be
a documented 12 pound loss in six months after starting the medication, all
of the above documented in the chart or it's bye-bye license. The Virginia
State licensing board takes this stuff seriously. Hey- just because they
give stimulants to school children like they were candy doesn't mean this
stuff is safe in adults . The FAA Aeromed people aren't likely
to smile on your use of them either. Personally, I'm trying to use the
increased useful load and Rate-of-climb of the plane/pilot combination (I'm
required equipment on my plane, so I'm an _adjustable_ part of the Basic
Empty Weight!) as motivation to shed those unsightly pounds. It's not
working.
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mumert" <sdm(at)SoftOptions.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
> > Cheapo vacuum cleaner extra hose Mask
(pith helmet
> > new $50 to outdoors &
heavy plastic bag)
>
I am currently in the process of building a fresh air
system much as you describe.
I bought a 'Windjammer' blower made by Lamb from a local
surplus store. It has an induction motor so is reasonable
quite. Cost $20.00 Canadian or about $15.00US.
Sears sells flexible hose about 1.25" inside diameter. It
cost $9.00C for 25 feet. I bought 2 lengths for $18.00C or
$13.50US. You will find this hose in the sump pump area, it
is designed to be used as a discharge hose. Rinse it out
good.
Racal Heath & Safety Inc. sells disposable Tyvek hoods
complete with a short hose and a hose clamp for $80.00C or
about $60.00US. The part number is 522-01-11R03, there are
three hoods in the box. Even if you buy a hobbyair system
you will need the hoods.
Home Depot had some wet/dry vacuum/blower units on sale for
$79.00C. These looked like they had a bypass type blower
(air for cooling the motor is supplied from outside the
vacuum not from air flowing through the vacuum). The top of
these units can be removed and used as a leaf blower. The
cooling fan was clearly visible through the top vent so I
presume it was a bypass system.
It looked to me as if you could convert this vacuum to a
fresh air respirator with very little cost or trouble. It
even gives you a place to store the hoses and hoods when
you are not using the unit. When your plane is done you
will have a vacuum to clean it with, and your wife will
have a blower to clean up the leaves in the fall.
Dave Mumert
SDM(at)softoptions.com
RV-6A 24859
________________________________________________________________________________
>
>
> Hi,
>
> rivet the horns to the elevators the other end (of the horns) does not make
> a tight fit around the bearing in the centre of the VS rear spar. Could
> some body tell me if it acceptable to place spacers between bearings and
> horns????? If not any suggestions what I might do would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Les Rowles.
>
Les, as you note the prepunched tail does not allow easy adjustments
and this topic does not seem to be addressed, either in the manual or
the drawings. Mine required 3 standard washers and one very thin one
on each side to fill the gap. In the archives I found a remark that
said three washers was acceptable. I don't see anything wrong with
the way mine came out, but some guidance would be nice.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6QME Fiberglass tail parts (ugh)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 1/4" holes in canopy? |
On 20 Apr 97 at 11:47, aol.com!Mlfred(at)matronics.com wrote:
> On the windshield/rollover attach:
> We drill 5/16 holes here. A #6 c/s screw is used here, with a short length
> (1/4" or so) of vacuum hose around it (expansion cushion), and a #8 tinnerman
> washer under the head. This will be covered by the fiberglass strip.
>
> Slider section:
> 1/4" holes can be used where the holes are covered by aluminum (sides, rear
> skirt attach, top tube).
>
>We use 5/32 or so around the front bow, where the
> rivet heads are used to retain the plexi.
Mark (and list),
That's super advice. I'm going to order the Tinnermans tomorrow.
I'm still a bit scared (crack...) of using the 5/32 holes along the
front bow of the slider frame. I'd like to err on the side of
caution. Hence, I'm considering using 1/4" holes and Tinnermans
under the pop rivets on the front bow of the slider frame. I'm
thinking the Tinnermans should smooth the transition and let the
fiberglass lip (from the windshield) slide over the Tinnerman/rivet
combination when the canopy is closed. Your thoughts on that
idea?
Thanks,
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
Craig, the PPG product is basically an etching product as well as a
cleaner. I think you'll be fine just using something like Naptha or MEK to
clean the tanks prior to Pro Sealing. I've not done it yet but I know
those that have and it worked just fine.
Mike Nellis "MNELLIS(at)compuserve.com" - Priming Empennage and riveting rear
spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cones' RV |
>
>I have a question about the test period. I was told if you have a
>certified engine it is only 25 hours, but, if you don't, then it is 40
>hours. Is this correct?
Michael,
I don't know about engines but there is a difference in test time based on
props. Wood props are 40 hours, certified 25 although I know of one RVer
who got a 20 hour test period on a constant speed. I would assume that a
non-certified engine could be assigned a longer test time. Actually, I
think the official who signs the paper work must have some leeway as to the
length of test period.
When I went from a wood prop to the Sensenich fp metal, I had to do a 10
hour test period in a specified area. This was with 264 hours on the
airframe and engine.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
Joe Rex wrote:
>
>
> Rick,
>
> I was considering going on the new diet drug "Redux". My family doctor,
> who is not an AME, wanted my to consider it. I checked with the FAA in
> Oklahoma City. They told me that I could not fly while on the drug, and
> that even after I quit taking it, I would have to wait 6 months, and submit
> the results of several tests. I guess I'll keep trying good old will
> power. You could contact the Aeromedical Division of the FAA at (405)
> 954-4821. They really are quite helpful over the phone. Good luck.
>
> Joe Rex
>
> ----------
> > From: Rick Osgood <ccc.henn.tec.mn.us!Rick(at)matronics.com>
> > To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: FAA Medical
> > Date: Friday, April 25, 1997 3:59 PM
> >
> >
> > Here's a new subject for you all... I am due for a medical(3rd class) in
> > May and am concerned because I have been on a doctors prescribed
> > medication of diet medicine known as Phen-Phen. Has anyone heard of the
> > FAA having a problem with this medication. I'd like to know so I dont
> > risk losing my medical.
> >
> > Thanks all
> > --
> > Rick Osgood
> > Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
You may also want to research how long the drug remains in your urine
before you fill in the box that asks for all current medications and
fill that little bottle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cones' RV |
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
>
> I have a question about the test period. I was told if you have a
> certified engine it is only 25 hours, but, if you don't, then it is 40
> hours. Is this correct?
25 hours with a certified propeller; otherwise 40 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
Dave Mumert wrote:
>
>
> > > Cheapo vacuum cleaner extra hose Mask
> (pith helmet
> > > new $50 to outdoors &
> heavy plastic bag)
> >
> I am currently in the process of building a fresh air
> system much as you describe.
>
> I bought a 'Windjammer' blower made by Lamb from a local
> surplus store. It has an induction motor so is reasonable
> quite. Cost $20.00 Canadian or about $15.00US.
>
> Sears sells flexible hose about 1.25" inside diameter. It
> cost $9.00C for 25 feet. I bought 2 lengths for $18.00C or
> $13.50US. You will find this hose in the sump pump area, it
> is designed to be used as a discharge hose. Rinse it out
> good.
>
> Racal Heath & Safety Inc. sells disposable Tyvek hoods
> complete with a short hose and a hose clamp for $80.00C or
> about $60.00US. The part number is 522-01-11R03, there are
> three hoods in the box. Even if you buy a hobbyair system
> you will need the hoods.
>
> Home Depot had some wet/dry vacuum/blower units on sale for
> $79.00C. These looked like they had a bypass type blower
> (air for cooling the motor is supplied from outside the
> vacuum not from air flowing through the vacuum). The top of
> these units can be removed and used as a leaf blower. The
> cooling fan was clearly visible through the top vent so I
> presume it was a bypass system.
>
> It looked to me as if you could convert this vacuum to a
> fresh air respirator with very little cost or trouble. It
> even gives you a place to store the hoses and hoods when
> you are not using the unit. When your plane is done you
> will have a vacuum to clean it with, and your wife will
> have a blower to clean up the leaves in the fall.
>
> Dave Mumert
> SDM(at)softoptions.com
> RV-6A 24859
Dear fellow cheapskates:
I made my own "hobbyair" and avoided the cost of a vacum cleaner. An
old a/c blower and a little sheet metal works fine. I got the blower
from a heating and a/c shop for nothing.
Robert Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air Vents, Chroming of Flap Weldment |
Weldment where the flap handle attaches to the cross tube cracked on my RV-4
at about 500 hrs. Both pieces were chromed.
Cause and effect ? I have no idea.
I'm not a welder nor a metalurgist, however it seemed the weld bead could
have been longer. Also the penetration might have been better. (flame away
guys, i'm just repeating what the local welding shop had to say)
Anyway, the replacement cross-tube and handle are not chromed. I'll let you
know in another 440 hours if it lasts longer ! :)
Steve
RVator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Matronics Email Problems [Please Read!] |
There appears to be a problem with *incoming* mail to the matronics.com domain
right now. The problem seems to have started sometime Sunday 4/27/97 and
is still not working as of 00:31 Monday 4/28/97. Outgoing mail (for example
this message) seem to go out fine, however, incoming mail is being refused
at this time. Any messages you have already sent to the List or to me
will most likely be forwarded when connectivity is restored.
Please refrain from posting any messages to the RV-List until further
notice from me. If there are a lot of messages queued up when service is
restored, a sort-of system melt down may occur! :-)
I'll post a message to the List when all is fine.
Thanks for understanding!
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I am having no luck finding a used (funny, I don't even check the new prices
anymore!) dip stick tube for a O-320. Mine was broken off at the engine
case. Is there a better metal version rather than the molded plastic one?
Could I modify my parts perhaps to gain the threads which were broken off?
kevin 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tvelvick(at)caljet.com> |
I have just received my empannage kit for the Rv-6 and the Avery Basic RV
tool kit. I am thinking about going to the Avery weekend class in Ft.
Worth, TX to learn to use them. I am wondering if there is anyone in the
Phoenix, AZ area that would be available to show me how to use the Avery
tools in exchange for ?.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
tvelvick(at)Caljet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cones' RV |
If you have a certified engine and prop, the test period is 25 hours. If you
don't have both then the test period is 40 hours. I have an Ellison Throttle
Body on my engine and that makes the engine non-certified.
Jim Cone, Impressing my friends with rides in my RV-6A!
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Yeller Pages Update Online |
The 04/23/97 revision to Gary VanRemortel's RV Builder's Yeller Pages is
available online at http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm. Thanks to
Gary at vanremog(at)aol.com for providing this list of suppliers.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sdrivers(at)juno.com (Stuart S Driver) |
I have just ordered Proseal to complete both tanks for my RV4. I
remember seeing somewhere a drawing of a homemade scale to determine the
correct mixing ratio.
Could anyone help with a copy of the drawing or a photo with
dimentions? I will refund any postage charges involved.
At the moment I have no access to the ' www ' so I can't download
anything or receive pictures by 'email'.
Reply direct to me if you can help. My address for 'smail' is,
Stuart S Driver
2800 North Flagler Drive,
West Palm Beach,
FL 33407
TIA
SSD.
sdrivers(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cones' RV |
So, does the engine have nothing to do with the test flying time? It's
just the prop? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
Thanks to all who provided input on the use of diet medications. I have
decided to stop the medication for a while (until after my medical in
one month) and see if I am maintaining my weight and to be able to say I
am not on any presrciptions. By the way, this stuff worked for me. I
lost 47 pounds in approx 6 months. NO side effects at all.
Thanks again...
--
Rick Osgood
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
I read somewhere in the last few months of a builder that had made a paint
hood that was suppied air via a salvage auto smog pump (?). I recall it was
claimed all fit on his back and only the supply hose was led off outside
air. As I didn't know quite how all that monkey motion would work so I
didn't think much about it tell last run of ideas. It sounded complicated as
far portible power supply, in my limited wisdom. I suppose that the unit
could be located out where the fresh air is gotten, if it has enough power
for that. Have any you more mechanically inventive fellows have any thoughts
on this type air supply?
Denny H. RV-6 Fuselege
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
OK, here goes. I'm going to ask it. I know I shouldn't. I guess its
sacrilege, but here goes. Does anyone on the list use Matt's FuelScan. In
over a year on the list, I have never heard anyone comment on FuelScan. In
fact, there are almost no posts, ever, about fuel flow meters. I know they
are one of the more expensive instruments in our panels (in someone's panel
other than mine). Especially for homebuilders (Glasairs and Lancairs
excepted). But since many, if not most, accidents are fuel starvation
related, maybe a fuel flow meter should be put in the same category as some
of those "mandatory" instruments.
That being said, there are several well known, well accepted fuel flow
measuring devices around. Matt, however, doesn't advertise nor have I seen
him at SnF or OshKosh. So most of us don't know firsthand about the product
that our Supermatt is manufacturing and selling. So, if anyone has praise
or some other form of criticism, let him/her speak up. I'd prefer to remain
anonymous,
but Big Brother and Matt knows all of our identities. Matt, please don't
"unsubscribe" me. (and thanks for the brochure).
Louis Willig, larywil(at)op.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello all:
GOOD NEWS! My Cherokee sold so I'm back in the airplane building business.
I'm going to send in my money right away for the wing kit. I'm planning to
finish the empennage while waiting on the wings.
Has anyone out there in -listland ordered a set of -8 wings lately? What lead
time were you quoted? I hate to bug Van's with questions that I'm sure
they've been answering 100 times a day... The web page still says 12 weeks.
Thanks in advance!
Rod (show me the [Cherokee] money) Woodard
RV-8, #80033
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TNguyen500(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Houston Bay Area RVators |
Hi Steve,
I am currently building an empennage for the RV-6a and would like very much
to find out more about the Houston Bay Area RVators. If you have additional
info, please e-mail it to me at TNGUYEN500(at)AOL.COM.
Thanks
T.Nguyen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RAINPOOF(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel cap vent clip |
The drawing shows a .025 X 1/2" wide clip to hold the vent tube at fuel caps.
Is this clip furnished with kit? I have not been able to locate if so. If
not, is it a common hardware store item or is something I need to make.
Getting ready to rivit fuel cap with proseal and it appears this clip needs
to rivit to cap.
Jerry Engel
RV-6A Prosealing tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley) |
| Subject: | Pitot tube location question |
Pitot tube location question:
I have already checked the 14 years of the RVator and the RV-List
archives looking for the answer to this question without any luck. So I
would really appreciate any suggestions anyone can offer.
I will be using a AN 5814-12 Pitot Static tube and my question
concerns the placement of the tube.
The plans call for the original pitot tube to be located approximately
72 from the center line of the RV-8 on the left wing and extend down
6.5 and forward 3 . This placed the original tube opening
approximately 15 b
ehind the leading edge of the wing and 6.5 below it.
I am planing on using the Hartzell 72 constant-speed propeller from
your accessory catalog, so I figure the prop wash extends out at least
the diameter of the propeller or 36 from the centerline. The original
pitot tube is located 72 from center line which is 36 farther out
than the tip of the prop.
I would like to locate the Pitot static tube on the middle access plate
on the left wing. This would place the tube 57 from the center line
which is 21 farther out than the tip of the prop. Since the AN 5814
tube is 10 long this would allow the placement of the opening to be
11 to 13 behind the leading edge of the wing and 6.5 below it.
Does this sound logical and reasonable.
If you think the above location is not OK, can you tell me what guide
lines I should use to figure out where to place it.
1. How far out from the tip of the prop?
2. How far below the wing?
3. How far behind the leading edge?
Thank you in advance for you response.
Curtis Hinkley
RV-8 #80015
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RAINPOOF(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Vent clip fuel cap |
The drawing shows riviting a .025 X 1/2" wide clip to hold vent tube at fuel
cap flange.
Is this clip furnished with clip? I haven't located if so. If not is this a
common store bought item or is it to be made and out of what.
Jerry Engel
RV-6A starting Proseal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Incoming Mail Still Broken... |
still, for the most, part broken. Every once in a while, the connection is
restored for about 60 seconds and allows some older queued messages to come
in. This is why there are a few messages to the RV-List still coming every
once in a while.
I have contacted the ISP and indicated that an outage of this duration is
unacceptable, but it doesn't seem to have helped...
Please refrain from posting any messages to the RV-List until further notice
from me. I will post a message to the List when connectivity is completely
restored.
Thank you for your patience...
Matt Dralle
Matronics
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap vent clip |
aol.com!RAINPOOF(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> The drawing shows a .025 X 1/2" wide clip to hold the vent tube at fuel caps.
> Is this clip furnished with kit? I have not been able to locate if so. If
> not, is it a common hardware store item or is something I need to make.
> Getting ready to rivit fuel cap with proseal and it appears this clip needs
> to rivit to cap.
You make it from scrap aluminum, just like you make the pitot line
clips. Or, some folks have just used a dab of ProSeal to hold the end
in place.
PatK - RV-6A - Wing ready to prime and close; painters on vacation
(sob!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Matt's FuelScan |
Hi All:
I've got one of Matt's little wonders in my bird (the DX model with fuel
pressure), and I've installed on in a customer's a/c also. I recommend the
unit to all who think they need such an instrument.
I don't always remember to carry the prompt card with me (I've got CRS), but
I'm still able to get the thing to talk to me, so I'd also say the user
interface is somewhat intuitive.
These things aren't cheap, but I figured that a 1 GPH less flow would offset
the cost in a reasonable amount of time. I was also able to not install a
fuel pressure gage, as the DX has this capability. Besides, it's neat to
watch. I find that I can rationalize just about anything, when it comes to
airplanes.
I hope this helps. Email me off the list for ant further questions.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
On 26 Apr 97 at 8:04, James K. Hurd wrote:
> Am currently prepping ribs for wing skeleton
> assembly and Archive opinion on: (1) where to run conduit; (2) what to
> use for conduit left me with plenty of notes but no real answers.
I used the conduit Van's sells (very light) and ran it along the
bottom of the wing, just behind the largest lightening hole in the
rear wing rib.
It's easy to shoot a piece of string through the conduit with a
blast of compressed air. Then you can pull the wires and antenna
coax with the string. In the future if you decide to run more wires
you can easily repeat the process.
Be sure to plan ahead so that the conduit isn't inserted until after
you've done all the bucking you'll need to do near the conduit.
Since the bottom skin is already riveted on the quickbuild, I put the
conduit on the bottom of the wing. Had I been building the entire
wing I might have riveted the top skin first and put the conduit
along the top of the wing.
Also, I used a bit of RTV at each point where the conduit goes
through the wing rib to reduce chaffing.
All of these ideas came from the rv list and private messages from rv
listers last year.
Good luck
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vent clip fuel cap |
aol.com!RAINPOOF(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> The drawing shows riviting a .025 X 1/2" wide clip to hold vent tube at fuel
> cap flange.
> Is this clip furnished with clip? I haven't located if so. If not is this a
> common store bought item or is it to be made and out of what.
>
> Jerry Engel
> RV-6A starting Proseal
Jerry,
You have to make your own clip from a piece of scrap aluminum.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
Has anyone used the special "#3 tank dies" for dimpling their tank
skins? They make a slightly deeper dimple and are supposed to
compensate for a layer of Proseal under the rivet heads. Do the rivets
really come out so badly if they are not used?
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap vent clip |
aol.com!RAINPOOF(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> The drawing shows a .025 X 1/2" wide clip to hold the vent tube at fuel caps.
> Is this clip furnished with kit? I have not been able to locate if so. If
> not, is it a common hardware store item or is something I need to make.
> Getting ready to rivit fuel cap with proseal and it appears this clip needs
> to rivit to cap.
>
> Jerry Engel
> RV-6A Prosealing tanks.
Jerry
That little clip does not come with the kit, we all have to make it
ourselves. Do not get any proseal on the end of the vent tube while
you are using that icky, gooey, nasty stuff.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Hanna <peterh(at)rdmcorp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
Congratulations on your first flight, Terry. It's an airplane now. I have
seen this aircraft periodically throughout its' construction and it is a
work of art. Workmanship is superb and Terry has incorporated some elegant
innovations, so when you see C-GZRV - Canadian "Zulu Romeo Victor" at
upcoming air shows/fly-ins, be sure to say hi and take a look.
>
>Fellow RV listers,
>
>My RV-6 #21084 flew Friday morning for the first time. Test pilot Bill
>Carter was at the controls. Needs a trim tab on the rudder.
>
>After six and a half years of mostly enjoyable building, I am very
>pleased and am looking forward to a great season.
>
>In addition, on April 29 I am taking over the leadership of the Ontario
>RV wing. I would like to trade news letters with any other group. Still
>waiting "Jim Cone".
>
>Terry Jantzi
>C-GZRV flying
>
Peter Hanna, RDM Corp, 4-608 Weber St. North, Waterloo, Canada, N2V1K4.
B: 519-746-8483 X224, 1-800-567-6227 X224, Fax: 519-746-3317.
Email: peterh(at)rdmcorp.com. -6 Fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
I routed my conduit this way and it seems to be fine. I used 1/2 inch
"schedule 200" thin wall pvc water pipe for conduit. Weighs next to nothing
and costs about a buck for a 10 foot piece.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Put the wiring runs forward of the spar outboard of the fuel tank and run a
>conduit between the spar and fuel tank. This puts the wiring in front of the
>spar when you enter the cabin and eliminates the problem of having to having
>to go through the spar. You might also consider using a 1/2" or so run of
>poly tubing for the counduit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap vent clip |
Jerry,
The little clip you are looking for is something you have to make out of
srcap .........George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap vent clip |
aol.com!RAINPOOF(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> The drawing shows a .025 X 1/2" wide clip to hold the vent tube at fuel caps.
> Is this clip furnished with kit? I have not been able to locate if so. If
> not, is it a common hardware store item or is something I need to make.
> Getting ready to rivit fuel cap with proseal and it appears this clip needs
> to rivit to cap.
>
> Jerry Engel
> RV-6A Prosealing tanks.
You have to make this part. Get something 1/4" in diameter and
bend a piece of .025 about 3/8" or 1/2" wide around it till it makes a
"u" shape. then hold it with a pair of channellocks or vice grips at the
top of the "U" then bend the long leg at a right angle. Cut off excess
and you are in business.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | Vent clip fuel cap |
< cap flange.>>
>
I think you're just supposed to make the clip out of scrap. That's what
I remember reading in the RV8 manual.
I totally forgot this piece when I went and riveted my fuel filler cap
in. DOH! something about the proseal clock ticking can sure make it
feel hectic. Once the goop is mixed - time to work not think...
Anyone see a reason why I can't just put another hole in the skin and
rivet the clip in place directly to the skin?
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap vent clip |
>
>The drawing shows a .025 X 1/2" wide clip to hold the vent tube at fuel caps.
>Is this clip furnished with kit? I have not been able to locate if so. If
>not, is it a common hardware store item or is something I need to make.
>Getting ready to rivit fuel cap with proseal and it appears this clip needs
>to rivit to cap.
>
>Jerry Engel
>RV-6A Prosealing tanks.
>
Hi Jerry,
The clip you are looking for is not supplied with Van's kit, but we have
exactly what your looking for that is fabricated, anodized gold with all
installation holes and the plastic bushing installed. Please e-mail me if
you need a left tank or right tank or both. Be glad to help. Remember on
the fuel tanks, the bigger the glob the better the job.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing Kits |
>Has anyone out there in -listland ordered a set of -8 wings lately? What lead
>time were you quoted? I hate to bug Van's with questions that I'm sure
>they've been answering 100 times a day... The web page still says 12 weeks.
>
I ordered about a month ago and was told the kit would be ready for
shipping May 26. Presumably that is the lot (100?) completion date.
Crating and shipping time will add to this, perhaps several more weeks?
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Empenage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vent clip fuel cap |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>The drawing shows riviting a .025 X 1/2" wide clip to hold vent tube
>at fuel cap flange. Is this clip furnished with clip? I haven't located
if so. If not is
>this a common store bought item or is it to be made and out of what.
It doesn't come fabricated in the kit. Just make it out of a piece of
.025 scrap.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: 0 360 vs I0 360 - how 2 get more hp |
Hi all,
Someone said, "There's no replacement for displacement"
When I had my MG dealership we often did things to customer's cars to give them
more power. The British call it "tuning".
We always had to advise customers that the only substitute for cubic inches was
rectangular dollars. We meant their dollars, of course, not ours. We modified
foreign cars with pistons from american cars. We bought cheap (high production
volume - lots of competition - better quality) american car parts which we
marked up severely. We could give more cubes and higher compression ratios in
exchange for rectangular dollars.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness |
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>
> ----------
> > From: one.net!rust47rg(at)matronics.com
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: re: rv-list: 5-pt Hooker harness
> > Date: Saturday, April 26, 1997 3:54 AM
> >
> >
> >
> > >My local FSDO is requiring TSO'd belts/harnesses! Is this
> > >common around the country? I think the inspector is either
> > >ignorant of the experimental category, or wants to shed the
> > >responsibility of approving non-aircraft items, no matter
> > >how well tested and documented.
> > >
> I am using seatbelts from Summit made for racing cars in my Skybolt. It's
> a 5 point 3inch wide harness with aircraft style latch. It looks great and
> best
> of all only cost $56! I've been through the inspection process with three
> FAA inspectors in Arizona and California and none made any comment about
> TSO's belt requirements.
> Marcus Cooper
> RV-6 tail kit and left spar completed
I have Summit's 'Junior Drag Race Harness' which is not pictured in
their catalog, but is the same as described above but with 2" straps.
Available in red, blue and black and features a military type latch -I'm
pretty happy with it -especially at ~$60. Haven't tested it, nor am I
planning on doing so, but it looks hell-built for stout and is legal for
NASCAR etc. Good nuf fer me.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Yes the PPG stuff is the same as alumaprep. PPG also makes another
product which is equivalent to Alodyne.
BUT... I would think twice about using an etching cleaner on the fuel
tanks. The purpose of the acid is to etch the material and give it some
"bite" for primer. Since you won't be priming the inside of the tanks
it's probably better to leave the aluminum un-etched. Of course you do
want to rough up the rivet lines but you can do this with sandpaper, and
then clean the $&@@ out of it with NAPTHA or something, per the
instructions.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: 0 360 vs I0 360 |
>
> What is the reason to used a 0 360 vs I0 360. I am new and learning about
>this.
>
Some of the reasons to use a 200hp fuel injected engine over a 180hp
carbureted engine are shorter take-off roll, quicker climb rate, better
efficiency in climb and cruise. The fuel injected engine combined with
electronic ignition is far more efficient than a carbureted version with
magnetos alone. Car manufacturers went to fuel injection and electronic
ignition close to 25 years ago. I had flown my RV-6A with a 180hp-wood
propeller equipped for 5 years then converted over to a IO-360 200
hp-constant speed equipped. It was a good airplane before and now it is a
great airplane. Cruise is considerably better, 20 to 25 mph more with fuel
burn exactly the same in gallons per hour. That is more efficient. The
airplane was altered from firewall forward in many ways. If you have
further questions please see our web site as listed below. I would be glad
to help you with anything I can.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: Matt's FuelScan |
> Does anyone on the list use Matt's FuelScan.
I'm not even though my wings yet, so *I'm* not using one. But I got a
good chance to check out the unit for last year's RV Forum in Minnesota,
and one of the guys with a flying plane bought one at that time. Here's
my impressions and what Elden (flying plane owner) has to say about it.
The unit looked pretty nice. It's very professionally packaged, and
the directions seemed top notch. I didn't spend much time working through
the installation manual, but did spend time working through the operations
manual.
The unit is easy to use and appears to do exactly what you would want it
to do.
In talking to Elden, he had a few comments --
1. He likes his unit.
2. It *does* take a certain amount of calibrating to do before it's
dead-on accurate. I suspect this is true for all the units.
3. This device would be *highly* useful during the 40-hour burn in,
when you're busy trying to collect all sorts of performance data.
I know I intend to install one of Matt's devices when I get to that
point. I figure it pays for itself:
1. I know *exactly* what I'm burning, so I know when I need to
divert for a fuel stop and when I don't. (Extra stops cost
time and money -- it's not free to decend, land, taxi, shut down,
start up, taxi, take off, climb, return to course.)
2. I know *exactly* what I normally burn, so I can do accurate
flight planning.
3. Significantly better job leaning the mixture (I would think).
4. The little penny-o-meter is sitting there ticking away, telling
me "if you throttle back, you'll save $$ an hour. Throttle back,
throttle back."
5. And if it *ever* prevents a low-fuel situation from turning ugly....
So the only question is -- Fuel Scan or the competition:
1. We should support Matt 'cause he supports us with this list.
2. Matt seemed very intelligent and customer oriented in my phone
conversations.
3. It really does come across as a well-engineered product.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Been watching some discussions on wire sizes and without
responding to any particular statements . . . .
If the material from which wires are made had zero resistance,
then any size wire could carry any amount of current! Consider
the formula for power where watts = volts x amps. This
relationship works whether the watts are used to do something
useful (light up a bulb) or worthless (warm up a wire). First
a little background:
As a useful rule of thumb, remember that 10AWG wire has a resistance
of 1 ohm per 1000 feet or .001 ohm per foot. Every time you
step three AWG sizes, you double/half the wire's cross section.
So, it follows that 13AWG wire is .002 ohms/foot, #16 is .004 ohms/
foot, #19 is .008 ohms/per foot and 22AWG is .016 ohms per foot.
In the other direction, 7AWG is .0005; 4AWG is .00025 and 1AWG
is .00013 ohms per foot. If you want to get a good estimate
on intermediate sizes, just do a linear interpolation. For
example, 20AWG is about 1/3rd of the way between .008 and .016
ohms per foot. So, 1/3 of .008 ohms is .0026 ohms. Add to .008
yields approx .0106 ohms. A check of a REAL wire table sez
20AWG is .0102 . . . Not bad for a quick approximation.
Now, knowing the resistance, you can calculate the LOSSES in
any particular wire. Suppose we drag a 7 amp load through
a piece of 20AWG in a composite airplane and round trip from
bus bar to load and back to ground is 15 feet. 15 feet times
.0106 ohms is .159 ohms. Ohms law sez Volts = Amps x Ohms
so the voltage drop in this hunk of wire is 7 x .159 or
about 1.113 volts. Hmmmm . . . in a 14 volt system, 8% of
the energy for the device at the other end of the
wire isn't getting there.
Going back to the first equation, 7 amps x 1.113 volts
is 7.8 watts. Where does this power go? Off as HEAT. One
respondent to this thread noted that 20AWG would produce
a 35 degree C temperature rise when loaded with 7 amps.
This is a free-air figure. Suppose the wire is buried in
a wire bundle? THEN 7 amps will undoubtedly cause it to get
much hotter. Okay, let's take the free air rise and say
we're going to run this wire through the tailcone where we
expect to see a hot-day soak up to 65C. With a 35 degree
rise, the wire surface can be expected to top at 100 degrees
C . . . pretty toasty.
The copper isn't in any trouble with this scenario but the
considerations are two fold:
(1) The INSULATION should be rated for operation under these
conditions (mil-w-22759/16 wire is good for much more than
100C . . . don't have the numbers off the top of my head)
-and-
(2) the voltage drop to the powered device needs to be evaluated
for acceptability.
Here is an excerpt on wire data from my book:
AWG Ohms/ 35C Rise 10C Rise Max Path
No. KFeet Amps Amps for .7 volt Loss
at 35C rating.
2 .156 100 54 45 Ft
4 .249 72 40 39 Ft
6 .395 54 30 32 Ft
8 .628 40 20 27 Ft
10 .999 30 15 23 Ft
12 1.59 20 12.5 22 Ft
14 2.53 15 10 18 Ft
16 4.01 12.5 7 14 Ft
18 6.39 10 5 11 Ft
20 10.2 7 10 Ft
22 16.1 5 8 Ft
In the 20AWG, 7-amp, 15-foot scenario I illustrated
above, voltage drop might be the condition I'd
like to correct so going to 18AWG wire would reduce
both voltage drop -and- temperature rise. For those
interested in the math note that from Ohms law,
Ohms = volts/amps. In the example below, the volts
and amps cancel ohms leaving feet:
1000Ft 0.7 volts
------------ x ----------- = 15.6 Path Feet
6.39 Ohms/KFt 7.0 amps
So, 18AWG would do fine in our 7 amp, 15 foot loop.
Now, all this having been said, there are no hard
rules for de-rating a wire If you suspect that voltage
drop might be an issue, do your own analysis like that above
. . . I like to keep wire losses less than 5% but that's
MY rule of thumb.
In some cases, a gross overload of a wire is
an acceptable design parameter. For
example: 250 amps to crank an engine is routinely
handled with 2AWG wire . . a TEMPORARY 250% overload.
Here, voltage drops are very important. I've had a
lot of canard-pusher builders wrestle with starter
performance when their ships were wired with
4AWG and the battery was in the nose. This is about
a 24-foot round trip. Play with the numbers a bit
yourself and see how much of a 12-volt battery (with
it's own internal resistance of say .004 ohms) is going
to get to a starter on the far end of 4AWG wires in a
Long-Eze.
On the other hand, an RV with the battery right behind
the firewall can tolerate 4AWG cranking circuits because
the round trip is only 4 or 5 feet long. For regulators
that use the field supply line to also sense bus voltage,
I'll routinely use 20AWG wire in a 3 amp circuit! This
is a voltage drop consideration. Some regulators become
unstable with mere millivolts of uncertainty about
bus voltage. A 22AWG field supply, 5 feet long inserts
240 millivolts of "rubber band" in the regulator's
sense circuit with a 3 amp load. Dropping to 20AWG
drops the uncertainty to 150 millivolts.
This little mini-seminar on wire is to illustrate the
potential pitfalls of grabbing any wire chart and
hooking things up accordingly. This is where networking
with other builders and individuals willing to share a
career's worth of experience is very much worth your time
and trouble. I hope this effort dispels another myth
surrounding wire selection. We have very few concerns
for "burning up" a copper wire. The major considerations
are insulation ratings -and- making sure the things
you hook up have enough juice to run properly.
When in doubt as to temperature rise (wire passes though
a hot section of the airplane or is buried in a bundle
of wires) pick the next larger AWG number for the circuit.
When in doubt as to voltage drop, calculate it out. For a
continuous running load to lose more than 5% of it's
voltage enroute is another good cause to put in bigger
wire. Finally, if you expect to exceed 150C (rise plus
ambient) on a wire run, consider re-routing the wire,
shielding it from heat sources or put in fatter wire.
Now, here's a brain teaser for you. Why does the
path length for 5% drop get longer as the wire diameter
increases???? You guys who have read the book stand
by here . . . let's see if anyone can deduce the reason
from what's been published above. Hint: What is the
mechanism by which a warm object sheds heat energy into
the surrounding environment?
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCHRICK_Mark/usa_carrollton_ca(at)usx006.stm.com |
Importance: High
| Subject: | For SALE: 76' Decathlon 8KCAB |
rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list-request(at)matronics.com, cmadden(at)wwi.net,
rstear(at)mipos2.intel.com
1976 Decathlon 8KCAB
1350TTAF
Lycoming 0-320 (150 Hp) Strong Engine
484 SMOH
Compression HIGH (77,78,76,77)
FULL inverted system
Constant Speed Prop
Apollo 760 COMM
King KT-76A Transponder
G-meter
EGT/CHT
(2) 5-point harnesses
Gap Seals
Spades
Wheel pants
Fresh Cover 1989
2 parachutes available
Annual: April 97 extensive ($2000) New seat AD, cables,ect...
Logs available by fax or mail
Red/ White/ Blue stars and stripes scheme from factory
Book value: $47,000 plus ; $39,500 Low book
Asking: $41,500
Mark Schrick
1397 Boysea Drive
San Jose, Ca 95118
(408) 266-1599 Phone/Fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Matronics.com Mail Restored... |
Listers,
It appears that full time incoming email to the matronics.com domain has
been restored by my ISP. I apologize for the duration of the outage. My IPS
didn't infomed me that there was even going to be an outage or that it was
going to last almost 3 days!
Any any rate, post away!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel cap vent clip |
Hi Jerry,
The clip is something that you make yourself.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KOZINSKI GARY <kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0 360 vs I0 360 |
Keep in mind that an IO-360 will NOT fit into the standard cowling that
Van supplies for use with the O-360. Numerous modification must be made.
The cost of an IO vs. O is much greater too!
Gary RV-6 final construction in MA with a standard O-360.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fitzgerald" <theredbaron(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginner priming questions |
Thanks for the info - I will try the water bottle trick especially!! :)
-----------------------------------
David Fitzgerald
RV-8 Serial #80333
theredbaron(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
>
>Has anyone used the special "#3 tank dies" for dimpling their tank
>skins? They make a slightly deeper dimple and are supposed to
>compensate for a layer of Proseal under the rivet heads. Do the rivets
>really come out so badly if they are not used?
I didn't know about the dies on my first tank, and have a few rivets that
don't look as flush as they could, especially near the leading edge. They
aren't 'bad', just not great. I wound up using the deburring crank to very
slightly countersink into the dimpled hole to compensate. Then I found out
about Cleaveland Tool's tank dies. I used them on the second tank, and
those rivets look great. Bottom line is, I highly recommend the tank dies
from Cleaveland Tool, but don't know about tank dies from anyone else.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
I'm re-sending this because this is one of those that didn't get through.
>Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 20:08:24
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: FAA Medical
>
>
>
>My wife was taking Phen-Phen and was told by her DR. (AME) that she would
not be able to get her student's permit while taking it. He made her wait
two weeks after finishsing it before he gave her her medical. She should
solo next week. Hope this helps.
>>
>>Here's a new subject for you all... I am due for a medical(3rd class) in
>>May and am concerned because I have been on a doctors prescribed
>>medication of diet medicine known as Phen-Phen. Has anyone heard of the
>>FAA having a problem with this medication. I'd like to know so I dont
>>risk losing my medical.
>
>>--
>>Rick Osgood
>
>>
>
Ray and Nancy Murphy
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV6A empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
Gooooood morning fellow RV builders...
There were several good contributions made by EXPERIMENTERS not only building
but also engineering, their own "hobbyaire" clones.
I think it is great! I'm going to do it for three reasons:
The Hobbyaire is outrageously overpriced.
I like the adventure of doing something new and different.
I might learn something.
The owner built system should be sure to use an explosion proof motor or locate
the motor outside the paint laden environment. I'll put blower outdoors with
the pickup and the hose will then be all on the pressure side. Won't require
hardly any pressure and only a little volume. I have a computer fan from an old
NASA workstation but most PC fans are probably too light. A cheap bathroom vent
fan will put out more than 50 CFM - that's cubic feet per minute. That means
that a strong breeze will be coming out of your hood and no paint will get in
unless you point the gun at your nose.
I'll have to make a box (a plenum) to adapt the fan to the hose. Maybe I'll do
it with that 3M rivet replacing tape!
(For those who can't understand why a Quickbuilder would waste time on something
he can buy, part of my reason for doing a Quickbuild is that I don't like doing
the same thing over and over again.)
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
> I am currently in the process of building a fresh air
> system much as you describe.
>
> I bought a 'Windjammer' blower made by Lamb from a local
> surplus store. It has an induction motor so is reasonable
> quite. Cost $20.00 Canadian or about $15.00US.
>
> Sears sells flexible hose about 1.25" inside diameter. It
> cost $9.00C for 25 feet. I bought 2 lengths for $18.00C or
> $13.50US. You will find this hose in the sump pump area, it
> is designed to be used as a discharge hose. Rinse it out
> good.
>
> Racal Heath & Safety Inc. sells disposable Tyvek hoods
> complete with a short hose and a hose clamp for $80.00C or
> about $60.00US. The part number is 522-01-11R03, there are
> three hoods in the box. Even if you buy a hobbyair system
> you will need the hoods.
>
> Home Depot had some wet/dry vacuum/blower units on sale for
> $79.00C. These looked like they had a bypass type blower
> (air for cooling the motor is supplied from outside the
> vacuum not from air flowing through the vacuum). The top of
> these units can be removed and used as a leaf blower. The
> cooling fan was clearly visible through the top vent so I
> presume it was a bypass system.
>
> It looked to me as if you could convert this vacuum to a
> fresh air respirator with very little cost or trouble. It
> even gives you a place to store the hoses and hoods when
> you are not using the unit. When your plane is done you
> will have a vacuum to clean it with, and your wife will
> have a blower to clean up the leaves in the fall.
>
> Dave Mumert
> SDM(at)softoptions.com
> RV-6A 24859
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
/First off, let me say that I always find your posts
/to the RV list to be informative, well thought out
/and they very clearly explain the topic at hand. I
/have to tell you that I have a special 'Bob Nuckolls'
/folder where I keep all of your posts.
Thank you . . I'll try to remain worthy of your
attention and trust.
>>When in doubt as to temperature rise (wire passes though
>> a hot section of the airplane or is buried in a bundle
>> of wires) pick the next larger AWG number for the circuit.
/Shouldn't this be a 'smaller' AWG number (larger diameter)
/instead of a larger AWG number?
You are correct of course. I got wrapped around the semantics
axle there . . I'm trimming it up for submission to Sport
Aviation and caught the error too. It has always irritated
me that both American and British "gages" are reversed . . .
bigger numbers are smaller products . . . . Of course the
guy(s) who set that up are all dead now but I's sure like
to give 'em a piece of my mind!
/In an aluminum airplane, what is the rule of thumb for
/calculating the resistance of the airframe when one
/connects the 'ground' of an electrical device to the
/airframe. I know aluminum is not as good a conductor
/as copper, but the 'effective' diameter of a fuselage
/or a wing is quite large compared to the diameter of
/most of the wiring on an airplane.
A very good question. My experience suggests that using
the airframe as common ground introduces small and
USUALLY insignificant voltage drops for most systems.
Audio systems are generally the only thing sensitive enough
to pick up aluminum airframe ground loops . . ya gotta
INSULATE microphone and headset jacks from airframe where
they mount lest you introduce alternator noise into the
system.
The biggest problem with using airframe as ground is not
the gross ability of all that aluminum to carry current.
I have problems finding places to attach a wire, especially
in monocoque construction. How do you grab sheet metal
in a way that will reliably carry 200 amps. Here's a case
where a doubler for spreading current out on the skin of
a structure is as valid as a doubler for spreading mechanical
loads! I had one builder try to ground his battery to a
longeron behind the seat. During a cold morning and hard
crank, he burned a big hole in longeron and adjacent skin!
In recent years, the ground systems I've developed for
composites have been nicely adapted for use in metal
ships too. I like to put a big brass bolt through the
firewall and use it to mount Fast-On tab ground blocks
for each side. A short jumper braid goes from this bolt
to crankcase. Battery (-) lead is WIRED to the cabin side
of bolt.
In this arrangement, cranking currents do not flow in the
airframe. All panel mounted equipment grounds to firewall
where the bolt penetrates it. Only a few items spread out
on the airplane ground locally . . . landing light, nav
lights, strobe supply, pitot heat. Just about every thing
else goes to the single point on the firewall. Makes for
a VERY quiet system.
Rag and tube airplanes benefit too . . . about once a year
I help some guy de-magnetize parts of his fuselage structure
so that his compass can be swung . . . keeping large current
flows out of steel structures is a good idea. I'm working on
an STC for total replacement of electrical system in a
Tri-Pacer using all of nifty techniques we've developed on
amateur built ships. The single point ground system I've just
described is part of that design.
/But on the other hand, priming the aluminum can insulate
/two adjoining pieces of the airframe, but on the other
/hand, the rivets electrically connect them, but on the
/other hand, some rivets have a coating on them (anodizing?,
/alodine?) that might insulate ...
RIVET is the keyword here. A properly set rivet swells so
tightly into drilled holes that no insulating quality
of any coating is left. I've never seen a case where
riveted pieces of aluminum wouldn't pass electrical bond
tests in spite of primer in holes before rivets were installed.
But even when the airplane as a whole is pretty well bonded
together, there's still the problem of good attachment.
/Bottom line, does one ignore the resistance (voltage drop)
/on the return path when the return path is the airframe or
/is it significant?
It's major significance is loss in the cranking pathways
and noises that must exist in the alternator/battery
charging pathways. The single point ground system eliminates
these concerns in all types of construction. Once the starter,
battery and alternator effects are in control, you can hook
just about everything else to a local ground with no concerns for
ground pathway resistance.
/Any comments on the trick of running a strip of copper foil
/up the windshield for a com antenna? How well does it work?
/Any health issues or is the radiated power not significant?
I've been watching that thread and considering a response. . .
. . . and since you asked . . . .
It's difficult to quantify how well any given antenna arrangement
works without a lot of testing on an antenna test range with lots
of expensive equipment. There are plenty of folk who will attest
to the worth or worthlessness of any given antenna based on
their personal experiences. These anecdotes are never well
quantified. A wet string hung out the window may well be a
perfectly fine antenna for someone who never talks to anyone outside the
pattern of his local airport!
A foil strip on the plexiglass has the potential for being a decent
radiator. It's important to remember that the high current
area of an antenna is where radiation occurs. The first fewinches
of the antenna's length should route from structure straightaway.
Once clear of structure, the far end can be folded back, zig-zaged,
bent off to one side at angle, etc. and have little or no effect on
antenna performance.
An antenna analyzer (see MFJ Corporation ads in QST magazine or rent
mine) should be used to optimize the antenna's length which may or
may not be the popularized 23" value. Surrounding structure and
width of conductor all have the effect of electrically lengthening
an antenna. The REAL optimum value can be as short as 19 inches or
so.
With respect to health issues, there are millions of folk,including
yours truly, who have used VHF and UHF handie talkies for over 20
years where they're looking right at an antenna inches in front of
their face. Both practical experience and watt-density analysis of
this scenario suggest that there are no concerns for putting a comm
antenna on your canopy.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Shelton <k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Seattle area - Boeing field RV Owners ??? |
Are there any RV owners based at Boeing field?
I have the great fortune of being able to be at Boeing field this weekend.
We will be showing our NASA B-737 (the prototype serial #1) to the Boeing
folks before it is retired. I might possibly be able to arrange a tour of
the 737's advance research cockpit (mounted in the aft cabin area). I would
love to be able to see someone's RV-x under construction or flying.
Anybody willing to trade a limited edition NASA ball caps for a ride?? he he
We should be easy to find. Ask for Kevin Shelton aka Sparky
Kevin Shelton KA4UWE k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov
NASA Langley Research Center
Hampton,VA 23681
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Phil Arter wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used the special "#3 tank dies" for dimpling their tank
> skins? They make a slightly deeper dimple and are supposed to
> compensate for a layer of Proseal under the rivet heads. Do the rivets
> really come out so badly if they are not used?
>
> --
> Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
> philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
> http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
> (303)459-0435 home
Phil,
I bought a set and tried them on some scap material with proseal and
everything looked good, but not that different from regular dies. Based
on a post in the archives from someone who didn't like the
results and felt that the rivits "tipped a little" when bucking. So, I
opted to use the regular dies. I think they would have helped me on the
tank stiffeners however.
Ed Cole RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vent clip fuel cap |
Michael Angiulo wrote:
>
>
> < at fuel
> > cap flange.>>
> >
> I think you're just supposed to make the clip out of scrap. That's what
> I remember reading in the RV8 manual.
>
> I totally forgot this piece when I went and riveted my fuel filler cap
> in. DOH! something about the proseal clock ticking can sure make it
> feel hectic. Once the goop is mixed - time to work not think...
>
> Anyone see a reason why I can't just put another hole in the skin and
> rivet the clip in place directly to the skin?
>
> -Mike
Okay, I'll confess. When I rivited my filler cap on I too forgot the
little clip for the vent line. What I did was run safety wire around the
tube and secured the wire around the neck of the filler and coated the
wire with proseal. The filler neck flares out so the wire won't slip.
This method seemed to work fine.
Ed Cole
RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube location question |
Curtis R. Hinkley wrote:
>=20
> I will be using a AN 5814-12 Pitot Static tube and my question
> concerns the placement of the tube.
>=20
> I would like to locate the Pitot static tube on the middle access plate
> on the left wing. This would place the tube 57=94 from the center line
> which is 21=94 farther out than the tip of the prop. Since the AN 5814
> tube is 10=94 long this would allow the placement of the opening to be
> 11=94 to 13=94 behind the leading edge of the wing and 6.5=94 below it.
>=20
> If you think the above location is not OK, can you tell me what guide
> lines I should use to figure out where to place it.
I am far from expert on pitot systems, but the only critical measurement
I saw in the documentation that came with my tube was distance from the
surface (I forget the measurement, which is at home but should be with
your tube as well). I would expect that you would want the tube
parallel to the relative wind at cruise (or maybe landing would be more
critical?), and I think that the specified distance from the mounting
surface would prevent airflow effects from the wing from disturbing the
readings to a great degree.
However, I decided to move my mount from the access plate area because
it would interfere with my ability to reach in and work with the
bellcrank assembly. I have heard some folks moved it inboard one bay; I
went outboard one. Hope this helps.
PatK - RV-6A - in downtime due to painter's vacation :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
Bob,
A wild guess on my part would be that the increased wire size has more
surface area to radiate the heat into the surrounding medium more
efficiently.
Joel Harding
ab320flyer(at)aol.com
>> Now, here's a brain teaser for you. Why does the
path length for 5% drop get longer as the wire diameter
increases???? You guys who have read the book stand
by here . . . let's see if anyone can deduce the reason
from what's been published above. Hint: What is the
mechanism by which a warm object sheds heat energy into
the surrounding environment?<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------2424BC1C8E
Well... after many opinions from many of you, 2 different AME's and 1
person at Oklahoma city, I finally found a FAA website with the written
policy on weight reduction medications and I also confirmed the web site
information with the head of the Medical division, Regional center in
Illinois.
The bottom line is you can not fly while on these medications. If you
list these on your medical exam application you will be denied any/all
medical license.
The attached is a text copy of the medical position of the FAA from the
FAA web site. (www.FAA.gov).
--
Rick Osgood
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
--------------2424BC1C8E
Disqualifying Medications: An Update
By Melchor J. Antuano, MD
The Aeromedical Certifica-tion Division continues having a fair number of
cases where an AME's decision to certify an airman has to be reversed
because the airman does not meet the medical Certification standards
prescribed in Part 67 of the Federal Aviation Regulations by virtue of
their history of medical conditions requiring the use of disqualifying
medications.
Having to reverse a certification decision made by an AME not only
increases the workload for the Aeromedical Certification Division,
but also results in disappointment to the airman, and possible
embarrassment to the AME when we are forced to reverse his/her decision.
The Guide for Aviation Medical Examiners (Sept. 1996, page 21, item 17)
states:
"[A]ny airman who is undergoing continuous treatment with anticoagulants,
antiviral agents, anxiolytics, barbiturates, chemotherapeutic agents,
experimental, hypoglycemic, investigational, mood-ameliorating, motion
sickness, narcotic, sedating antihistaminic, sedative, steroid drugs, or
tranquilizers must be deferred certification [emphasis ours] unless the
treatment has previously been cleared by the FAA medical authority
[Office of Aviation Medicine.]"
Further information concerning an applicant's use of medications may be
found under the items pertaining to the condition(s) for which the medication
is used.
Please remember that AMEs are not authorized to certify airmen who are
taking disqualifying medications. These include such prescription medications
as fenfluramine (Pondimin), dexfenfluramine (Redux), phentermine (Fastin),
imipramine (Tofranil), fluoxetine (Prozac), methylphenidate (Ritalin),
pemoline (Cylert), bupropion (Wellbutrin), paroxetine (Paxil), sertraline
(Zoloft), venlafaxine (Effexor), and buspirone (BuSpar).
--------------2424BC1C8E--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
Hal,
What diameter hose? How many feet (max) could one get away with? It's
quite a ways from where I paint, to the hanger door.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: 0 360 vs I0 360 |
>
>Keep in mind that an IO-360 will NOT fit into the standard cowling that
>Van supplies for use with the O-360. Numerous modification must be made.
> The cost of an IO vs. O is much greater too!
>
>Gary RV-6 final construction in MA with a standard O-360.
>
>
Hi Gary,
Yes the IO-360 will not fit in Van's stock cowling. The new "holy cowl"
that I now offer will fit with no modifications on certain types of IO-360
200 hp installations.
The induction air and cooling exit air outlets are pre-molded in the
cowling so no need to glass another part on later. On the used market the
IO-360's are actually less expensive than the O-360's, yet new prices are
higher. If you want more "fun factor" and RV's are fun, let horsepower
rule. Hey it eats less gas too.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing Kits |
Call them up!!
I had two free weeks end of December last and so ordered my Quickbuild.
Delivery date was given as Valentine's day! Later I learned that they could
have supplied all but the canopy in December!
The other thing is that the web pages - nearly everybody's - are usually badly
out of date.
When I do it again, I'll call and beg.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
One very important point ! The sliding canopy has a hidden problem that Vans
does not address. - access to the back of the instrument panel is almost
impossible once it is buttoned up. The builders in my area - Utah are all
installing sub-panels for flight instruments and for eng instruments that can
be easily removed and they are shock mounted - easy to do and well worth it.
I wish someone had told me about this fix when I was a-building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jim Cones' RV |
The fly off time is up to the FAA rep or the DAR. I have seen any where from
a 10hr fly off time to 40hr. The most common are 25 or 40 usually depending
on eng prop combination. My 4 had a modified 0320, with an Ellison TBI, and a
Harold Rehm prop originally. My fly off time was 25 hrs. Its all up to the
guy filling out the paper work.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | RV-4 Brake Reservoir... |
Houdy RVers,
I was looking at that nifty welded aluminum brake reservoir last night and a
couple of questions came to mind that the manual doesn't seem answer:
1) Which side of the firewall should it be mounted on?
2) Should it bolt to the top cross member or can it be mounted to
the SS sheet metal?
3) Is the center above the rudder peddels really the best place to
mount it? Seems like other things might be better mounted there
in the future (heater vent or something.) Or even off to the side.
4) What screws in the top of the reservoir? There doesn't appear
to be anything handy in the 'brake hardware' bag. It would seem
that it would have to be vented to allow the fluid to flow out.
Are we talking a bolt with a hole drilled in it? Or do you just
fill it up, bleed, then screw a stopper in?
Thanks for the input. It is me or are the plans kind of sketchy in this
area? I also couldn't really find any good diagram of how the brakes and
wheels were really suppose to fit together. There were sort of diagrams of
certain parts, but not a good over all. Now, having figured it out it, seems
simple enough, but a good diagram would have saved a little head scratching.
Maybe it's just my circa 1988 plans too...
Matt Dralle
RV-4 1763
N442RV <-- Get it? RV-4 for two people! I also had/have a 69 and 86 Olds
Cutlass which is kind of like a Olds 442! I can
dream can't I?!
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
> Hal,
> What diameter hose? How many feet (max) could one get away with? It's
> quite a ways from where I paint, to the hanger door.
Diameter depends on pressure and distance, I suppose.
Maximum length depends on pressure and diameter, I suppose.
"quite a ways" will probably need a "little more" than "rather close".
Seriously, engineering *IS* number oriented. I saw a Hobbyair at Oshkosh and it
seems like the hose was maybe twenty feet long and about 2 inches in diameter.
If you have to go more than that, the hose will have to be larger to offset a
greater loss in pressure. One of those old furnace blowers which ought to be
either free or very cheap from a furnace dealer or shop, would probably push
hard enough on a two inch hose to do okay across most light plane hangars.
Could you move closer to the door or window? Or poke a hole in the wall?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
aol.com!RV6Russ(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> One very important point ! The sliding canopy has a hidden problem that Vans
> does not address. - access to the back of the instrument panel is almost
> impossible once it is buttoned up. The builders in my area - Utah are all
> installing sub-panels for flight instruments and for eng instruments that can
> be easily removed and they are shock mounted - easy to do and well worth it.
> I wish someone had told me about this fix when I was a-building.
Would you Utah gang have any drawings or notes on these sub-panels to
offer us.
Thanks
--
Rick Osgood
Hennipen Technical College
Eden Prairie, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com (Cecil T Hatfield) |
Easy - - larger wire has more surface area to radiate heat (energy)
cecil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Wentz <Don_Wentz(at)ccm2.hf.intel.com> |
>OK, here goes. I'm going to ask it. I know I shouldn't. I guess its
>sacrilege, but here goes. Does anyone on the list use Matt's FuelScan. In
>over a year on the list, I have never heard anyone comment on FuelScan. In
>fact, there are almost no posts, ever, about fuel flow meters. I know they
>are one of the more expensive instruments in our panels (in someone's panel
>other than mine). Especially for homebuilders (Glasairs and Lancairs
>excepted). But since many, if not most, accidents are fuel starvation
>related, maybe a fuel flow meter should be put in the same category as some
>of those "mandatory" instruments.
>
>That being said, there are several well known, well accepted fuel flow
>measuring devices around. Matt, however, doesn't advertise nor have I seen
>him at SnF or OshKosh. So most of us don't know firsthand about the product
>that our Supermatt is manufacturing and selling. So, if anyone has praise
>or some other form of criticism, let him/her speak up. I'd prefer to remain
>anonymous, but Big Brother and Matt knows all of our identities. Matt, please
>don't "unsubscribe" me. (and thanks for the brochure).
>
>Louis Willig, larywil(at)op.net
>--------------
Louis,
Matt forwarded this note to me, as I unsubscribed from the RV-list out of
frustration over a year ago.
I was one of the early beta testers of the Matronics Fuelscan unit.
Based-on my input he did significant redesign and improvements, and while I was
pretty satisfied with the FIRST unit I had, I am totally happy with the current,
shipping version.
The early issues I had were mostly usability (ie sensitivity of the buttons,
brightness of the LEDs at night) and size (unit was a foot long, new
design is 4 inches so it fits much easier behind the panel).
I have opened the unit and the design is very professional, I know how much
effort Matt has put into the units, including significant testing of each unit
prior to delivery.
My RV-6 is Fuel Injected, which is much easier to measure from a fuel flow
standpoint. The flow reading is very steady and consistent, whereas a carb
installation cycles between low to high flow, depending on the fullness of the
float bowl. I have always experienced very stable and accurate readings, and
have never experienced a full failure of the unit. I occasionally get a
power-on failure that is fixed by resetting power to the unit, but it is rare
and will be fixed in the upgrade that Matt is doing to my unit next week. It
was traced to defective components from a supplier and plagued most early
units, most more than mine.
Now, while I have always had good steady readings, that has not been true for
carb installations. Matt has several units in the field that he has been
working with to solve the issues, mainly centered around stability of the
readings. He has worked hard on this for the last year and I believe
he has it licked. Obviously THIS issue is hearsay to me. Like I said, in my
fuel injected system, the unit has always performed well.
I think he has NOT done any advertising in the big publications due to the fact
that the product was not 'finished' yet, as time in service is the ONLY way to
prove/debug/validate a design. If he would have sold 20 units and had to
support the updgrades, that would have been difficult. However, if
he HAD sold you a unit, I know that he would have supported it without question.
(Unfortunately he spent his time developing this product instead of
finishing his RV-4. So he had to use his car and the generous feedback
of early users to test and debug the product. I think he would have
gotten there sooner had he had his own RV to test in. He is now
actively finishing his Rv, which is good to hear).
As to use and functionality of the Fuelscan, I really enjoy mine. Mine is the
full featured unit, although I would be happy with a more basic unit. For most
of my flying, which is local joy riding, I use the GPH function exclusively,
just to show how much fuel I'm burning. While many times this data is
depressing (an O-360 can burn a LOT of fuel at low altitudes and high throttle
settings), it is sometimes very entertaining. Like flying formation with a
Cessna 140 - he is at full throttle at 110mph, figuring about 5gph
burn, while I am toodling along at 3.7gph right beside him. He no longer chides
me about my 'big engine and how much fuel I burn'.
On the cross country trips I do occasionally make, I get a lot of use out of
the "fuel left" function, and "Time remaining" at current burn rate. Those
can really help you plan your next stop. The functions I almost never
use (if I can even remember them) are Cost/hour, GPS/Loran groundspeed, Fuel
Pressure (I have an analog guage which I prefer). I do use some of the alarm
functions, especially the time to switch tanks. I always set the fuel
remaining warning, but seldom use it. (In fact, your statement about improved
safety thru better knowledge about fuel usage MAY be a double-edged sword - I
can see folks using this data to stretch their tanks and getting into MORE
trouble. I use it the other way - when I see less than 1.5hrs of cruise fuel
remaining, I get nervous. Just a thought...)
Again, I don't see a Fuel 'totaliser' as a MANDATORY instrument in the panel,
but I never met someone who had one who would give it up. It is a fun and
useful item that is nice to have if you can afford it.
Matt has put massive development effort into his units and I recommend them
highly. I still think you need to decide which features you need
the most and get the unit that fits the price/features that you want, but I
wouldn't hesitate to put his unit into my current or next plane. This is
based-on >200 hours of use in my RV-6, I know some of the other early users, and
I have been in the electronics industry 18 years.
He does have a website if you want to look there: http://www.matronics.com/
He has photos and full specs.
As to other fuel systems, the Electronics Intl unit is a good unit with a good
reputation, but I would support a fellow RVer if his price/features were
competitive. I also have recently seen a new player in this field in Sport
Aviation, but again I would go with EI or Fuelscan first, because I KNOW that
Matt would support his unit, and that new one is an unknown quantity.
Summary: My experiences with Fuelscan have been great, I trust Matt's design
and support and integrity, I think the Fuelscan price/performance is the best
currently available, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend his units.
Hope this info helps. Feel free to email me if more questions.
Don 'The Duck' Wentz, N790DW, 180HP RV-6, #20369 (382hrs TTAF)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
>>Reply to your message of 4/30/97 9:24 AM
>>
>>Some of the reasons to use a 200hp fuel injected engine over a 180hp
>>carbureted engine are shorter take-off roll, quicker climb rate, better.=
.....
I checked the Mattituck Web page and an overhaul for that engine is about $=
15k. It's only a few $k more than a parallel valve 360. The fuel injecti=
on/electronic ignition is a non-issue as either engine can be fit with both=
features. =20
Now, I thought the IO-360/angle valve engine had some sort of counterweigh=
t arrangement that prevented you from doing acro ??? Also, doesn't the en=
gine weigh much more ( 50lbs?? ) than a straight 360? I must confess to be=
ing somewhat skeptical of this engine choice. =20
BTW, I checked out your web page and if you really picked up somewhere from=
10-15 mph(?) purely from drag reduction, that is quite an accomplishment.=
Congrats...
John
=09
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HinkleyC(at)fca.gov |
| Subject: | Looking for 2 RV's |
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent
the policy or position * * * *
* * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * *
I would like to talk to the owners/builders of the following RV?s:
1. N762L (H)? I thinkthe last letter is H, could be something else.
This is an RV4 that was at Sun ?N? Fun
this year. It has a Van?s Airforce paint job.
2. N136MM This is an RV6 (A)? I think its an A. I saw this at OSK 96
and it has a Van?s Airforce paint job.
These two RV?s look like they were built by the same person (just a guess).
I really like the way the instrument
panels and switches are laid out in these RV?s. They each have what
appears to be the same throttle quadrant
and use the same switches. I am in the process of trying to layout my
instrument panel and figure out what switches
and fuses to use and would like to find out where they purchased some of
there parts. If you know of these RV?s
and can provide me with a name and phone number I would really appreciate
it.
Curtis Hinkley
RV8 80015
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Ground Wires Vs hull as ground |
I was told by a fellow who is avid electronics fan both professionally and
hobby that there is controversy around useing the airframe as a ground due
to corosion possiblities at joints, around rivets, etc. He said that Piper ,
I think, had lots of trouble with this.
Is this a possiblity or -----?
Should we be running ground wire for every thing to a common ?
Denny H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Brake Reservoir... |
Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001 wrote:
>
>
> Houdy RVers,
>
> I was looking at that nifty welded aluminum brake reservoir last night and a
> couple of questions came to mind that the manual doesn't seem answer:
>
> 1) Which side of the firewall should it be mounted
I put mine in the center, I looked at 4 or 5 RV-4's and all of them
had the reservoir in the center
> 2) Should it bolt to the top cross member or can it be mounted to
> the SS sheet metal?
> Agian, all the 4's had the reservoir mounted to the top firewall
angle
> 3) Is the center above the rudder peddels really the best place to
> mount it? Seems like other things might be better mounted there
> in the future (heater vent or something.) Or even off to the side.
>
Maybe, I'm plumbing everything in right now. I could let you know in
2 months. The one's I looked at had no interference problems
> 4) What screws in the top of the reservoir? There doesn't appear
> to be anything handy in the 'brake hardware' bag. It would seem
> that it would have to be vented to allow the fluid to flow out.
> Are we talking a bolt with a hole drilled in it? Or do you just
> fill it up, bleed, then screw a stopper in?
> There is a screw-in plug, that has what looks like wire in the center
of it to vent the reservoir
Thanks for the input. It is me or are the plans kind of sketchy in
this
> area? I also couldn't really find any good diagram of how the brakes and
> wheels were really suppose to fit together. There were sort of diagrams of
> certain parts, but not a good over all. Now, having figured it out it, seems
> simple enough, but a good diagram would have saved a little head scratching.
> Maybe it's just my circa 1988 plans too...
> No it's not your plans, the prints could use a lot more details.
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
> One very important point ! The sliding canopy has a hidden problem
> that Vans does not address. - access to the back of the instrument
> panel is almost impossible once it is buttoned up. The builders in
> my area - Utah are all installing sub-panels for flight instruments
> and for eng instruments that can be easily removed and they are
> shock mounted - easy to do and well worth it.
One concern I have about shock mounting comes from my motorcycle riding.
There's always the danger that the mounting system you have for protecting
against shock and vibration will have a natural frequency that is harmonic
with the engine vibration you're trying to protect against. (It's similar to
the way your mirrors start shaking like mad on the bike at certain RPMs.) The
end result is that instead of protecting your instruments, you end up shaking
them to death.
Does anyone have any experience or data on this?
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Brake Reservoir... |
> I was looking at that nifty welded aluminum brake reservoir last night and a
> couple of questions came to mind that the manual doesn't seem answer:
I asked a similar question recently and got a couple of responses --
based on those and what I've figured out since then I can maybe help
some. But bear in mind I still haven't done mine (and mine's a -6 and
not a -4).
> 1) Which side of the firewall should it be mounted on?
The RV-6 drawings depict it on the front of the firewall, and all the
planes and pictures I've seen (-6s anyway) have it on the front. One
RV-6 drawing shows it (without dimensions) mounted above the longeron
line, another dwg. shows it below. Everyone I've talked to (including
Ken Scott) says it doesn't matter, just so long as it's above the slave
cylinders (i.e. the brake pedals).
> 2) Should it bolt to the top cross member or can it be mounted to
> the SS sheet metal?
All the ones I've seen have been to the firewall. Some used doubler
plates, which seems like a good idea to me.
> 3) Is the center above the rudder peddels really the best place to
> mount it?
[snip]
Several that I've seen had it elsewhere. Ken scott's is mounted over on
the right side, below the longeron level. Tony Bingelis has his on
the right side above the longerons. The upshot seems to be that it
can go wherever it'll fit, as long as it's above the pedals. I started
to put mine in but decided to wait and see where everything else needed
to go before committing to a particular spot. If you're further along
you may already know where it can go without interfering with anything.
> 4) What screws in the top of the reservoir? There doesn't appear
> to be anything handy in the 'brake hardware' bag.
[snip]
Mine came with a vented cap. Maybe the older ones didn't come with a
cap? Better check with Vans.
> Thanks for the input. It is me or are the plans kind of sketchy in this
> area? I also couldn't really find any good diagram of how the brakes and
I think the -6 plans are a little better now but still the brakes are
kind of hard to figure out. And it would be nice if they just said
something like "put the brake reservoir wherever it fits" instead of
showing it two different locations on two different drawings. I guess
that's what the list (and Van's tech support line) is for! Besides, I
can't bitch too much or Ken might not let me fly his plane after he gets
it fixed... :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Delivery Report (failure) for fuzzy@nasa_ames_x500 |
>
>How does a tour of two RV-6's under construction, a flying RV-4 and an RV-6
>temporarily grounded for repair sound?? Walt Cannon has his RV-4 based on
>Boeing Field; I talked to him this evening and he will try to find you this
>weekend at the field. I have an RV-6 which is temporarily grounded for
>repairs at Paine Field near Everett and two friends are building their
>RV-6's within 2 miles of Paine field.
>
>If this sounds interesting give me a call or email before the weekend and
>I'll attempt to set up a 'tour' for you. I DO want that NASA cap, though.
>
>John
>
>
>>Return-Path:
>>Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
>>X-Sender: k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov
>>Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:05:28 -0400
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>From: Kevin Shelton <larc.nasa.gov!k.j.shelton(at)matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV-List: Seattle area - Boeing field RV Owners ???
>>Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>Are there any RV owners based at Boeing field?
>>
>>I have the great fortune of being able to be at Boeing field this weekend.
>>We will be showing our NASA B-737 (the prototype serial #1) to the Boeing
>>folks before it is retired. I might possibly be able to arrange a tour of
>>the 737's advance research cockpit (mounted in the aft cabin area). I would
>>love to be able to see someone's RV-x under construction or flying.
>>
>>Anybody willing to trade a limited edition NASA ball caps for a ride?? he he
>>
>>We should be easy to find. Ask for Kevin Shelton aka Sparky
>>
>>
>>Kevin Shelton KA4UWE k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov
>>NASA Langley Research Center
>>Hampton,VA 23681
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HinkleyC(at)fca.gov |
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent
the policy or position * * * *
* * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * *
I posted this question the other day before I relized the list was down,
so you may receive it twice.
Just to let you know that I have done some looking, I have already
checked the 14 years of the RVator and the RV-List archives looking for
the answer to this question without any luck. I have already ask Van?s,
and I received a very quick response which basically said that they had
not tried placing the pitot tube at any other locations. They did say
that others have moved it around and not had any problems. So I would
really appreciate your giving my question some thought.
I will be using a AN 5814-12 Pitot Static tube and have a question
concerning the placement of the tube.
The plans call for the original pitot tube to be located approximately
72" from the center line of the RV-8 on the left wing and extend down
6.5" and forward 3" . This placed the original tube opening
approximately 15" behind the leading edge of the wing and 6.5" below it.
I am planing on using the Hartzell 72" constant-speed propeller from
Van?s accessory catalog, so I figure the prop wash extends out at least
the diameter of the propeller or 36" from the centerline. The original
pitot tube is located 72" from center line which is 36" farther out than
the tip of the prop.
I would like to locate the Pitot static tube on the middle access plate
on the left wing. This would place the tube 57" from the center line
which is 21" farther out than the tip of the prop. Since the AN 5814
tube is 10" long this would allow the placement of the opening to be
11" to 13" behind the leading edge of the wing and 6.5" below it.
What do you think, will the above location be OK ?
If you think the above location is not OK, can you suggest some guide
lines that I could be used to figure out how close to the center line it
can be placed.
1. How far out from the tip of the prop?
2. How far below the wing?
3. How far behind the leading edge?
Thank you in advance for you response.
Curtis Hinkley
RV8 80015
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darwin Esh <103126.3212(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Rick Osgood:
Seth Hancock-EAA Ch 187 makes a perfect sub-panel in his machine shop.
Seth Hancock, 505 Western Tr. Georgetown, TX. 78628
Dar Esh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sylvan Adamson <sadamson(at)cyberhighway.net> |
What happens if you get cought with an expired medical. Anyone ever been
thru this? I've kept mine up for 30 years, and I'm the only one thats ever
looked at it!
Sylvan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 cowl and main wheel pants for sale |
| From: | Paul Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
I have a brand new 360 cowl and air box as well as a pair of main wheel
fairings for sale. They have just been unpacked from the finish kit and
are in perfect condition. I will sell them for 80% of Van's price. You
pay shipping and handling or pick them up. Mid-Michigan area. I could
possibly deliver them to Oshkosh.
Does anybody have any good leads on a run-out IO360? Please email me
direct.
Paul Lein
RV6A fuselage mostly skinned -- time to make the expensive decisions,
instruments and engine -- aarg!
_____________________________________
* THE LEINS *
* 1555 South Brinton Road *
* Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628 *
* (517) 644-2451 *
* 37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu *
_____________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Updated web site |
Just thought I post a note to let everyone know that I have added
fuselage skeleton pictures (that's what I am currently working on).
Site address: http://www.flash.net/~donmack/
I will be adding the emp and wing pictures shortly.
Please let me know what you think (via direct email).
thanks
Don Mack
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
/Now, here's a brain teaser for you. Why does the
/path length for 5% drop get longer as the wire diameter
/increases???? You guys who have read the book stand
/by here . . . let's see if anyone can deduce the reason
/from what's been published above. Hint: What is the
/mechanism by which a warm object sheds heat energy into
/the surrounding environment?
I've had a few folk nail it but most have offered
possiblities wrapped around better ability to reject
heat because of larger surface . . . actually the
REVERSE is true . . . . Let's look at the wire
table again
/ AWG Ohms/ 35C Rise 10C Rise Max Path
/ No. KFeet Amps Amps for .7 volt Loss
/ at 35C rating.
/
/ 2 .156 100 54 45 Ft
/ 4 .249 72 40 39 Ft
/ 6 .395 54 30 32 Ft
/ 8 .628 40 20 27 Ft
/ 10 .999 30 15 23 Ft
/ 12 1.59 20 12.5 22 Ft
/ 14 2.53 15 10 18 Ft
/ 16 4.01 12.5 7 14 Ft
/ 18 6.39 10 5 11 Ft
/ 20 10.2 7 10 Ft
/ 22 16.1 5 8 Ft
Remember from my earlier post, I said that every 3
steps in AWG number is a 1/2 or 2x factor in diameter.
So, lets compare ratings for 10 and 16AWG wires.
If 10AWG wire has 4 times the cross sectional area
of 16AWG due to twice doubling, you would expect it's
current rating to go up by 4 times too. But no, it's
30/12.5 or only about 2.4 times ? ? ? ? ?
While the cross section went up by a factor of four,
the actual diameter would have gone up by only 2 times.
Recall that area goes up and resistance goes down
by the SQUARE of diameter, outside area (and ability
to reject heat) goes up only DIRECTLY with the
diameter. So, larger wires have LESS outside surface
with respect to their increase in cross section which
prevents you from using all of the wire's apparent
ability to carry more current.
However, since voltage drop is a DIRECT function
of cross sectional area, the derating for limited
heat rejection works to our advantage with respect
to losses . . . and we can run longer path lengths
and stay inside the nominal 5% loss allowance.
It's a subtle geometry problem . . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Grounds and Demagnetizing |
/1) You said in your last message that only a few local grounds were
/ needed, e.g. landing and nav lights. Other than some extra weight,
/ what would the pros and cons be of running a wire back from these to
/ the common firewall ground, so they don't even have local ground?
You can certianly do this but I don't see any particular need
or advantage. Remote loads such as landing lights, pitot heat
and nav lights are neither potential victims nor antagonists
for noise issues so the parallel feed and return paths are of
no utility. If you had a flux gate compass in wing, you MIGHT
want to run parallel paths for goodies that pass by . . .
Further, total loads for all these things is pretty nominal. As
long as critical items such as radios and audio systems are common
grounded behind the panel, the few amps of remote grounded
items are insignificant.
/2) Regarding demagnitizing -- I recently completed my canopy (sliding)
/ but still haven't done final attachment of the windscreen. Do you
/ think it would be worthwhile for me to get the roll bar demagnetized
/ now while it's easy to take it off and take it somewhere where they
/ have the equipment? I know it's possible to get the equipment and do
/ it in place, but I think it would be easier (and probably cheaper) to
/ just take it somewhere. Do you even think it's worthwhile to do if you
/ don't have a known problem? And what about the canopy frame?
You can demagnetize this type of structure very nicely with a Radio
Shack hand held bulk video tape demagnetizer. Has there been a
history of compass problems caused by canopy frames? I've not been
privy to any. I think you're safe in making the installation and
waiting to see if you have compass problems later . . . they're not
hard to chase out with the device I mentioned.
Bob . . .
If I did this now, is there much chance of magnetism building back up
again from subsequent work? I don't know that much about how
magnetism builds up.
Thanks!
Randall Henderson randalldt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bennett(at)healey.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
>>. The builders in my area - Utah are all
> > installing sub-panels for flight instruments and for eng instruments that can
> > be easily removed and they are shock mounted - easy to do and well worth it.
> > I wish someone had told me about this fix when I was a-building.
>
> Would you Utah gang have any drawings or notes on these sub-panels to
> offer us.
>
> Thanks
> --
> Rick Osgood
> Hennipen Technical College
> Eden Prairie, MN
>
Why not make the instrument panel removable? Attach it with screws
per Frank Justice, but cut it vertically flush with the inside edge
of the right canopy deck to allow it to be pulled straight out past
the roll bar. It's neat, clean and the area you lose at the extreme
right is miniscule.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAA Medical - Expired |
| From: | bshaw5(at)juno.com (William H Shaw) |
writes:
>
>
>What happens if you get caught with an expired medical. Anyone ever
>been
>thru this? I've kept mine up for 30 years, and I'm the only one that's
>ever
>looked at it!
>Sylvan
>
>
It probably won't matter unless, you're either caught in a ramp check ,
or there is an accident, and/or you would not have received a medical
certificate had you applied for one.
1. You're insurance is coverage is automatically canceled !
2. You're exposing your passengers and other aircraft/property if
you cannot pass the medical to an unacceptable risk!
3. Do you even want to consider the financial risk to yourself and
family?????
Need I say more???
Bill Shaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | expired medical consequences |
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
I would think one consequence of an expired medical would be possible
denial of an insurance claim by your insurer. One of the first steps
taken by an insurance company when a claim is made, is to look for a way
to deny or reduce coverage. If anything is not correct with your FAA
license/req compliance (whether or not it had anything to do with the
nature of the claim) may be the basis for denial of coverage. That is
what the so called fine print is all about.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
/Ah, now what if the "wire" was not circular in cross section ?
/Let's say the conductor was of rectangular cross-section, and
/rather thin. In the extreme, if the conductor was very thin,
/the surface area would increase at twice the rate cross-sectional
/area increases, as the width of the conductor was increased.
/In that case, heat dissipation and temperature rise would not
/be the limiting factor; the voltage drop would.
Now you're thinking like an engineer (a process that is not
the sole privilage of engineers . . . in fact, I know lots
of graduate engineers that can't think like one).
/Does that make a case for flat conductors where temperature rise
/might be an issue ? Probably not. They would be a pain to work with.
Sure does. There have been many designs for large powerhandling
systems and components where flat, thin counductors were designed
to minimize temperature rise in conductors. About 15 years ago
I designed a multi-speed trim system for the Learjets. I wanted
to minimize the amount of single strand wiring used and looked
carefully at using as much insulation displacement, flat ribbon
cable as I could inside the black box. Two conductors had to be
capable of carrying 16 amps . . not something you'd normally consider
running through a "bundle" of 26AWG wire! Some simple tests showed
that I could parallel 6 strands of the ribbon cable, and have very
nominal temperature rises at 20 amps.
The reliability of insulation displacement connectors and uniform,
predicable paralleling of multiple conductors in a ribbon cable
allowed me to take advantage of "thin and flat" for power handling.
Although the conductors were short (about 5"), being able to
munch connectors on and solder them to the boards with ZERO
wiring errors was a big help. I'll bet I've got the only
product on the surface of the planet that flys around in high
performance airplanes carrying tens of amps in itty-bitty wires
of a ribbon cable.
/But I have read about some builders using flat conductors
/[bonded to fuselage sides] from their battery. The aim here
/though was to minimise space, and as you say, voltage drop
/under cranking is the issue here, not temperature rise.
If someone wanted to develop the technique for doing so, the IDEAL
way to bring battery juice forward in a metal airplane would indeed
be with a thin, flat conductor bonded to but insulated from the skin.
Super heat rejection and local heat sinking. It's a technique that
would take some very careful integration mechanically with construction
of the skin and it's attachement to formers and ribs. Theoretically
a very attractive idea but pretty labor intensive . . probably more
trouble than the investment would be worth.
/p.s. Bob, I really enjoy your discussions and tutorials.
Thank you, they're fun to do!
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)world.std.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
>
>Why not make the instrument panel removable? Attach it with screws
>per Frank Justice, but cut it vertically flush with the inside edge
>of the right canopy deck to allow it to be pulled straight out past
>the roll bar. It's neat, clean and the area you lose at the extreme
>right is miniscule.
>
>
>Peter Bennett
>Sydney Australia
>RV6 building sliding canopy
>
>
This is how my panel is done. I put #6 nut plates in the
angle that rivets to the top fuselage skin and countersunk the
panel. I'm painting my panel black and so I'll use the black
brass flush screws. I ordered a new panel from Van's last
summer and it came with the sides cut to clear the roll bar
but you do have to be careful when putting it in or taking it
out.
Cheryl Sanchez
csanchez(at)world.std.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
>
>> One very important point ! The sliding canopy has a hidden problem
>> that Vans does not address. - access to the back of the instrument
>> panel is almost impossible once it is buttoned up. The builders in
>> my area - Utah are all installing sub-panels for flight instruments
>> and for eng instruments that can be easily removed and they are
>> shock mounted - easy to do and well worth it.
>
>One concern I have about shock mounting comes from my motorcycle riding.
>There's always the danger that the mounting system you have for protecting
>against shock and vibration will have a natural frequency that is harmonic
>with the engine vibration you're trying to protect against. (It's similar to
>the way your mirrors start shaking like mad on the bike at certain RPMs.) The
>end result is that instead of protecting your instruments, you end up shaking
>them to death.
>
>Does anyone have any experience or data on this?
>
>
>--
>Richard Chandler
>RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
>
Vans has one aircraft (the red RV-6T) with shock mounted gyros and that
sucker (Panel) shakes a lot more than the hard mounted panel when at idle or
taxiing. The gyros in this panel have a half life between 10 and 50 hours.
I think it could be helped by putting isolators in two or three planes.
This panel has 6 isolators (shock mounts) but they are all in the same
plane. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Phillips <billphil(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | I would like to buy an RV-6 |
As many of you know, I've been test flying the RV-6a that Jess Meyers
owns. Jess is doing all of that flying himself at the moment. I liked
the airplane sooooo much I think I'm going to have to go buy one to
satisfy my addiction. What I want however is a tail-dragger. I would
like to buy an RV-6 from someone out there, with at least 180 hp. Not
just any RV-6 either, I would like one that was built and finished very
nicely and preferably with at least the capability of shooting a
nonprecision IFR approach, i.e. some gyros. We live in Class "B"
airspace so a blind encoder and Xponder are a must. Of course I can
install all this myself but I'd prefer to buy one with it all done. I'm
not in the mood to build anything other than RC models at the moment.
Email me at billphil(at)ix.netcom.com if you know of one!
Badwater Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
> Could you move closer to the door or window? Or poke a hole in the wall?
Maybe I'll need an inlet hose, then I suppose I'll need an
explosion-proof motor? Right now I'm painting small pieces, which can
be done near the door. Eventually I'll be painting the entire beast,
and 40 or 50 feet of movement will be needed...
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Fresh air systems |
> Maybe I'll need an inlet hose, then I suppose I'll need an
> explosion-proof motor? Right now I'm painting small pieces, which can
It seems to me a long hose and hole in the wall, with your vacum cleaner
or hobbyair outside would be much preferable to trying to find some
explosion-proof motor, even if you have to go to a 2" hose or something
like that.
I'm glad to see this talk about fresh air breathing systems (long-winded
as it may seem to some :-). I primed most of my plane without one -- I
used a good quality respirator and never could smell anything, but from
what I've read and heard this is still not enough protection against the
epoxy primer that I used. I sure hope I don't get some horrible cancer
some day as a result.
In any case, it seems to me that spending some time up front and making
a vacum-cleaner powered fresh air system would be worth the effort (or
buying a Hobbyair but jeez they cost a wad!)
Also I really think it's a good idea to buy or make a full hood so you
protect not only your lungs but eyes and ears.... I even wear the
respirator inside the hood for extra protection. This may seem like
overkill but in my case the fumes sometimes drift all the way around the
house to the fresh air inlet, so the respirator sure can't hurt.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Ground Wires Vs Airframe as ground |
A Professional told me that there is controversy about the airframe used as
a ground due to corrosion possiblities at joints, around rivets, etc. He
said that one manufacture (Piper I believe) traced corrosion troubles
airframe grounding.
Is this a possiblity or -----?
>From the postings I have read and the above possiblity we should be running
ground wires for everything, right?
Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
> One concern I have about shock mounting comes from my motorcycle riding.
> There's always the danger that the mounting system you have for protecting
> against shock and vibration will have a natural frequency that is harmonic
> with the engine vibration you're trying to protect against.
[snip!]
In my experience with spam cans I have seen shock mounted panels
shiver and shake just as you describe, primarily at idle. I think
you have a good point here.
I've talked to a number of RV builders who didn't shock mount
their gyros and didn't think it was a problem, and some who did
and said they wouldn't bother if they had it to do over again.
Several people have mentioned making the whole panel removable -- with a
basic VFR set-up this might be OK, but I've been under quite a few
panels and even with careful design, getting out a whole panel that's
stuffed with instruments, what with all the tubes and wires, all
wire-tied together, etc. would not be trivial. My plan is to split my
panel or do some sort of sub panel(s) so I can pull out one section or
another, but not shock mount any of it.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen" <clevtool(at)tdsi.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for RV builder in Oregon |
Does anyone have a phone number or e-mail address for Chirs Pruner in
Redmond, OR?
Please send private e-mail to address below.
Thanks,
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
1-800-368-1822
clevtool(at)tdsi.net
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Beckham <76623.1166(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Powersport-Mazda |
RV builders:
Just got on list. In response to our appearance at Sun'N Fun with the 200 h.p.
Powersport-Mazda conversion engine installed in Alan Tolle's RV-3 we've had so
many telephone calls and letters we thought we would try the RV list to see if
it would be more effective time-wise. Latest news: we won our class in the Sun
100 cross-country race with Alan Tolle in in his RV-3. The finish placed us
fifth overall, ahead of all four cylinder Lycomings and Continentals. Alan's
average race speed in the RV-3 was 228 mph. Finishing ahead of us were a
Venture, Lancair IV, GlasAir III and Jim Stewart's S-51 powered by a big-block
Chevy. The race followed the first day of the time-to-climb competition where
we fairly easily beat Jim Stewart's S-51. Rumors are true; we used nitrous in
the RV-3 for the time-to-climb. When Alan ran the cross-country race he
damaged a bearing on the aft-end of the propeller shaft so we couldn't finish
the time-to-climb competition. We were obviously disappointed because we
thought we would be very competitive in the climb competition based upon what
happened in day 1 where we posted the best time at 45 seconds, followed by the
Ryan-Falconer V-12 powered Thunder Mustang at 48 seconds. That day the trials
were timed to 2,000 ft. on the first day so we can't compare time's to Bruce's
winning time. If you want further updates and technicial info, please contact
us off the list @ 76623,1166@compuserve.
Steve Beckham
Everett Hatch
Powersport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: I would like to buy an RV-6 |
Does Bill Phillips want an RV-6 with a Lycoming engine???
hal
>
>
> As many of you know, I've been test flying the RV-6a that Jess Meyers
> owns. Jess is doing all of that flying himself at the moment. I liked
> the airplane sooooo much I think I'm going to have to go buy one to
> satisfy my addiction. What I want however is a tail-dragger. I would
> like to buy an RV-6 from someone out there, with at least 180 hp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh air systems |
What do you use for a hood? Did you buy something off the shelf or did you
make something? How is the hose connection made? I assume that since we are
talking vacuum cleaner blowers here that the hose being used is vacuum
cleaner hose?
Please excuse my ignorance here, but I have never seen one of these things
before and am not sure I have the correct mental picture. Feel free to email
any replies off-list.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Also I really think it's a good idea to buy or make a full hood so you
>protect not only your lungs but eyes and ears....
>Randall Henderson, RV-6
>randall(at)edt.com
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Brake Reservoir... |
>
>
>Houdy RVers,
>
>I was looking at that nifty welded aluminum brake reservoir last night and a
>couple of questions came to mind that the manual doesn't seem answer:
>
> 1) Which side of the firewall should it be mounted on?
I put mine on the engine side for ease of serviceing
>
> 2) Should it bolt to the top cross member or can it be mounted to
> the SS sheet metal?
I used the firewall with a small backing plate
>
> 3) Is the center above the rudder peddels really the best place to
> mount it? Seems like other things might be better mounted there
> in the future (heater vent or something.) Or even off to the side.
centre worked for me
>
> 4) What screws in the top of the reservoir? There doesn't appear
> to be anything handy in the 'brake hardware' bag. It would seem
> that it would have to be vented to allow the fluid to flow out.
> Are we talking a bolt with a hole drilled in it? Or do you just
> fill it up, bleed, then screw a stopper in?
There is a little brass plug with a brass screen material in it, I should
have been in the reservoir.
>
>Thanks for the input. It is me or are the plans kind of sketchy in this
>area? I also couldn't really find any good diagram of how the brakes and
>wheels were really suppose to fit together. There were sort of diagrams of
>certain parts, but not a good over all. Now, having figured it out it, seems
>simple enough, but a good diagram would have saved a little head scratching.
>Maybe it's just my circa 1988 plans too...
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-4 1763
>N442RV <-- Get it? RV-4 for two people! I also had/have a 69 and 86 Olds
> Cutlass which is kind of like a Olds 442! I can
> dream can't I?!
>
>
>--
>
>Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Airframe Grounding |
/A Professional told me that there is controversy about
/the airframe used as a ground due to corrosion
/possiblities at joints, around rivets, etc. He
/said that one manufacture (Piper I believe) traced
/corrosion troubles airframe grounding.
/Is this a possiblity or -----?
This subject has come up over the years but I've never
seen a definitive study that confirmed it. I can tell you
that tons of airborne aluminum is shipped out of Raytheon
(Beech) every year wherein EVERYTHING grounds to airframe
in order to pick up the power return path.
One of the problems I have with "professionsals" is that
they happily participate in the circulation of aviation
legends too. I'll readily concede that there are cases
of demonstrated airframe damage due to POOR grounding
technique . . . I reported one such case myself. At this
time, I wouldn't double up on wires in a metal airplane
to avoid "airframe corrosion." It has certainly not been
a barn-burner or we'd have heard a lot more about it. I
suspect someone, somewhere posted a service difficulty report
where a line mechanic observed and diagnosed the cause for
some form of corrosion problem. Service difficulty reports
stuck up on bulletin boards are responsable for generating
a LOT of aviation legends.
/From the postings I have read and the above possiblity
/we should be running ground wires for everything, right?
I can't recommend it except to the extent that I've discussed
for ground loop avoidance . . . virtually all techniques
I describe go to performance and noise issues . . . not
airframe corrosion.
/A number of people building things like Ezes and Berkuts--
/where you have the battery in the nose and the starter etc.
/back in the tail--have bonded aluminum or copper strip to the
/fuselage to use as main power leads.
Nothing wrong with this as long as they've done their homework
and calculated sufficient cross section to control voltage drops
and further, taken care to keep out and return power paths as
close together as possible for magenetic field cancellation.
The biggest problem I have with this is how do you connect to
the strips? You've created a metalic quasi-airframe that
requires bolts, bonding techniques and terminals to attach
wires to these strips at both ends. . . . LOTS of new, unnecessary,
power-robbing joints not to mention the labor of installing
the strips in the first place.
Do a component count and compare hours for installation.
As a general rule, very few design philosophies with increased
hours or complexity can be justified over simpler techniques.
Ask yourself which of the techniques is easiest to implement;
it's quite likely that the simplest is also the best.
/I seem to recall someone else using copper plumbing pipe--I
/think it was 3/4 inch--for primary power, while at the same
/time using it as a conduit for running other smaller wires to
/the back of the airplane.
I did a black hole project about ten years ago using a Long-Eze
where we installed a conduit ground system. The airplane was to
carry some sophisticated electronic countermeasures
equipment and we went to a lot of trouble to get things very
QUIET. In early revisions to my book I described this system
and a number of readers installed conduit grounds. There are
two advantages: Noise reduction and ease of pulling in new wires
at a later time. Turns out both reasons were marginal justification
for all the extra work on ordinary transportation/pleasure airplanes.
If you've got a conduit ground system in place, don't rip it out.
If you've yet to install a ground system in a canard-pusher,
I recommend you use parallel paths of 2AWG wire and take pains
to control ground loops per other techniques already on record.
You'll save HOURS of work with no perceivable degredation to
performance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
and a big fan!
A really big fan, like you might get from a rental place or an attic fan on its
side, will keep air moving past you and then past your paint work.
Picture this commercial paint booth:
The room is rectangular. One of the long walls is a screen/filter that keeps
out bugs but lets air flow through its entire surface. The opposite long wall
is a grillwork and behind it are several big air moving fans. The painter works
in a breeze that is moving from the fan wall past him to the work and then on
out the opposite wall.
I sure wouldn't complain if I had a nice large hangar. My small two car garage
which doubles as store room and laundry is very full. In the afternoons, I can
count on a breeze so the air stays pretty fresh. And the door is only a few
feet away.
If I did have a large space I'd try to paint near a door or window or poke a
hole in the wall. If unable, I might buy 10 foot lengths of rain downspouts for
most of the run about $4 each, If I remember. In any case, a nice breeze would
help.
Someone said hoods were available from RACAL. That's RACAL Health and Safety
and the phone is 800.682.9500 They have a web page www.racal.com or
www.racalhealth.com
I believe it is better to have a homemade system than be painting without
because you can't afford the best. It may not even be the best!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
Richard Chandler wrote:
>
>
> > One very important point ! The sliding canopy has a hidden problem
> > that Vans does not address. - access to the back of the instrument
> > panel is almost impossible once it is buttoned up. The builders in
> > my area - Utah are all installing sub-panels for flight instruments
> > and for eng instruments that can be easily removed and they are
> > shock mounted - easy to do and well worth it.
>
> There's always the danger that the mounting system you have for protecting
> against shock and vibration will have a natural frequency that is harmonic
> with the engine vibration you're trying to protect against. The
> end result is that instead of protecting your instruments, you end up shaking
> them to death.
>
> Does anyone have any experience or data on this?
I, too, am interested in this. I've been told that the new instruments
are better made, and the shock mounting is not necessary. I am also
being told that Mooney is not shock mounting their panels? Does anyone
know anything about this? We're getting ready to do my panel, and it'd
be way more fun to do it right the first time!
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Brake Reservoir... |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
Matt, Here is the layout of components on my RV-4 firewall. It may
give you a starting point for laying out yours. I arrived at this
after multi iterations.
Standing in front of the aircraft and looking aft at the firewall, I
have the following items going from the top right engine mount bolt
(looking aft) along the top of the firewall to the top left emgine
mount bolt (looking aft). - manifold pressure transducer, fuel
pressure transducer, vacuum suction regulator, brake hydraulic
resevoir, engine monitor sensor cables, oil pressure transducer. The
brake resevoir is about centre. This pretty well fills up the top of
the firewall.
Below these, with about two inches clearance above the step in the
firewall are, again from right to left looking aft, carb heat cable,
five or six inches of empty space, hot and cold air intake box, ADC
oil filter, and the hot and cold air control cables.
Space sure is scarce on the RV-4 firewall. Knowing exactly what you
will be installing and preferrably having them so you can mark out all
the locations before you begin cutting holes would help a lot.
Also be sure to consider what you will have on the back of the firewall.
ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh air systems |
> What do you use for a hood? Did you buy something off the shelf or did you
>make something? How is the hose connection made? I assume that since >we
are talking vacuum cleaner blowers here that the hose being used is >vacuum
cleaner hose? Mike Wills
Guy's
I have a little experience in breathing air apparatus's (apparati?) from my
SCUBA Instructor days as a "certified" tank inspector. I did take classes
for this and I have a 3000 psi converted Joy compressor (former Korea era
jet starter) that has filters you wouldn't believe for filling tanks with
breathing air. We ARE talking about your lungs here. If you are going to
make your own unit out of a vacuum cleaner then at least spring for a NEW
shop vac or something similar. They are cheap and you can usually find them
on sale. You need to put a filter of some sort on the end you would usually
suck up the dirt with. (also new). These units use a fan to suck in air and
this air is not usually used for cooling the motor. (I have taken enough
of them apart). Keep the new inside filter in place also. Now you can
stick an intake hose (with a filter on the end) on the unit and an exaust
hose for your breathing air. I would suggest you get NEW plastic sump-pump
hose for either or both of these orifices. This hose is usually 1 1/2
inches in diam. and you can get it in 25 or 50 foot lengths and it is very
light and flexible. There are many simple ways to hook it to a hood. If you
can build an airplane you can make something that will work here.
(read...make an aluminum fixture). Someone suggested those Tyvek safety
hoods that come 4 or 6 to a box. These sound good. You should be able to
stick the whole thing together for under $100. I may mess around and see
what I can come up with and report back to the list. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Miller, Jr." <rgmiller(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
Larry D. Hoatson wrote:
>
>
> > Could you move closer to the door or window? Or poke a hole in the wall?
>
> Maybe I'll need an inlet hose, then I suppose I'll need an
> explosion-proof motor? Right now I'm painting small pieces, which can
> be done near the door. Eventually I'll be painting the entire beast,
> and 40 or 50 feet of movement will be needed...
> Larry
> --
> Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
>
> lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
>
> KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
>
> Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
Larry:
You do NOT need an explosion proof motor. The whole purpose of this
system is to supply your lungs with FRESH air. Therefore, it is
absolutely necessary that your blower is located in a non-explosive
area. At Sun n' Fun, I looked a system manufactured by one of
Hobbyaire's competetors. With the system came a section of 3/4"
galvanized pipe to be installed in the wall. The blower went on one
side with you on the other.
As far as hose, I am using 3/4" air hose I purchased from a
sandblasting supply company. I believe it was manufactured by Clemco or
Bullard and used to supply fresh air to their blasting hoods. The
legnth I bought was either forty or fifty feet and has worked out well.
In fact, I had to install a baffle on my heating / a/c blower to reduce
the amount of air at the mask.
Robert Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
Van's: Could you send me a copy of Unison Service Letter #196. (Unison
said I should get it from you.)
I talked to a fellow at Unison about the kind of RPM signal they provide
their black box, and if it could be used to display on a tach. He said it
is a 4 pulse square wave, and that I would have to talk to tach people to
find the appropriate tach.
Not to imply that we have any "tachy" people on this list, but am
wondering if anyone might know enough about tachs to send me in the
direction of a tach that would work with the 4 pulse square wave signal.
My preference would be an analog display if that were possible.
Thank You....!
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q #60011, rigging empenage, Seattle area
rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
FAX 360 692 2818
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Line Plumbing |
Which fitting is required to screw into the carburator fuel line inlet
on an 0360-A1A. Is it a standard AN pipe to flare or is it one of the
specialty fittings Vans sells for plumbing the fuel line to the
mechanical fuel pump.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HinkleyC(at)fca.gov |
| Subject: | Looking for two RV's |
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent
the policy or position * * * *
* * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * *
I would like to talk to the owners/builders of the following RV?s:
1. N762L (H)? I thinkthe last letter is H, could be something else.
This is an RV4 that was at Sun ?N? Fun
this year. It has a Van?s Airforce paint job.
2. N136MM This is an RV6 (A)? I think its an A. I saw this at OSK 96
and it has a Van?s Airforce paint job.
These two RV?s look like they were built by the same person (just a guess).
I really like the way the instrument
panels and switches are laid out in these RV?s. They each have what
appears to be the same throttle quadrant
and use the same switches. I am in the process of trying to layout my
instrument panel and figure out what switches
and fuses to use and would like to find out where they purchased some of
there parts. If you know of these RV?s
and can provide me with a name and phone number I would really appreciate
it.
Curtis Hinkley
RV8 80015
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors - the real poop |
Don't buy an oil-less air compressor. They are much to noisy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for two RV's |
> I would like to talk to the owners/builders of the following RV?s:
>
> 1. N762L (H)? I thinkthe last letter is H, could be something else.
> This is an RV4 that was at Sun ?N? Fun
> this year. It has a Van?s Airforce paint job.
>
> 2. N136MM This is an RV6 (A)? I think its an A. I saw this at OSK 96
> and it has a Van?s Airforce paint job.
>
> These two RV?s look like they were built by the same person (just a guess).
> I really like the way the instrument
> panels and switches are laid out in these RV?s. They each have what
> appears to be the same throttle quadrant
> and use the same switches. I am in the process of trying to layout my
> instrument panel and figure out what switches
> and fuses to use and would like to find out where they purchased some of
> there parts. If you know of these RV?s
> and can provide me with a name and phone number I would really appreciate
> it.
>
> Curtis Hinkley
> RV8 80015
> chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
> hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
Curtis
If you look at <http://www.landings.com> and then once there click on
the
search button that is on the blue header bar it will take you to
a N number search menu, enter the N number(s) and you will find the two
airplanes you are looking for, they are built by the same person.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | canopy to front deck fairing |
I'm finally really into the 'finishing' stage and need to build a fairing on
the front of the canopy from the edges of the side skins forward. I'd
appreciate any feedback on how to do it.
I'm planning on using a silicon type sealant to build the major contour on
the front edge of the plexi and then lay up glass on top of that. If I cover
the plexi and the front deck with either wax or wax paper, that should act as
a release so I can remove the built-up fiberglass to do finishing shaping
etc. Then I have to permanently attatch it the both the plexi and the
aluminum deck. I'm thinking the cleanest way to do this would be to bond it
vs. riveting but am concerned about the strength of any adhesive.
I'd appreciate any info on what you did with yours or what you've seen. I've
checked the archives and didn't find any help.
Thanks
Dan Helm
DkSJC(at)ao.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory S. Brewsaugh" <gregbrew(at)gte.net> |
I'm almost afraid to post this. I just got my RV-6A empennage kit and
about $2k of tools, when it ocurred to me after reading about diet pills
that I am subject to occasional migraine headaches. I have them
infrequently (2-3 times a year), and they are ALWAYS controlled by my
prescription medication (Midrin) Is it possible that I will be denied a
pilots license because of infrequent potential need for prescription
migraine medication? Any migraine suffering pilots out there? What do
you do? HELP please!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for two RV's |
Is there a way to do a title search to get all previous owners?
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Randolph Airmotive ??? |
I am trying to locate this company. I need the current telephone number
Thanks,
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Plumbing |
I tried both fittings and found the standard AN fitting,
while it wasn't catching as many threads as I would
like, was still a better fit. Also the threads look like
pipe to me.
Bob Lovering
RV6AIR Finishing up wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
I recommend you contact Gary Crump at AOPA. He is
the Director, Medical Certification Department. He will
give you answers without getting involved with the FAA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
| Subject: | Results of FuelScan exploration |
Just around the time that the "list" got nuked by Matt's server, I tread
where no man dares to tread....on Matt's toes. I asked for praise and/or
criticism of Matt's Fuelscan system. Well, let me tell you that there was
nothing but praise for the unit. Most of these posts were thru the list,
but a few interesting ones were sent privately.(I wish you guys with good
info for all of us would keep it on the list.) The
bottom line seems to be that Matt's FuelScan is equal to other's in the
Marketplace, that he may still be field testing prior to releasing the
product to the Marketplace, and finally, everyone who replied thought
that the device was a worthwhile addition to an aircraft panel. This
statement, of course, brings up the subject that we all dream of each
night...What would we have on our dimensionally challenged RV-4 panel? (
Our spouses/lovers think we are dreaming of them. Yeah, right?). In all
the zillions of magazine articles written, I have never seen one that
openly discussed or argued about what the priority should be for panel
instruments. I guess we all have different needs and priorities.=20
My dream RV-4 will have several more instruments than my Cessna-150. And
this, in less space. Some recent electronic marvels such as IIMorrow's
SL40, King's KT76-C and nearly Everybody's GPS's make for an incredibly
safe, functional, and affordable A/C panel.=20
Several companies make great, basic
engine instruments, such as single cyl. EGT/CHT, Oil
Temp., Oil pres., M/P, and Vacuum gauges. Such gauges are a must in one
form or another.
After these I would like to have an absolute handle on fuel usage and
status. This was not as critical in a high-wing as in an RV-. Now, I
would like to know where my fuel is and how much I'm using and how best
to lean out. Thus, I will probably be purchasing and installing Matt's
FuelScan soon.
Thanks for your help. Damn, this list is great.
Louis Willig, larywil(at)op.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank Suppport Angles |
The two .125 angles sit on a .063 angle at the aft end of this assembly.
Plans call for rivets and inch or so forward of where the angles are
riveted together. Problem is there is about .063 space between rib web
and .125 angle. Can't find mention of a spacer. Nothing in archives.
Pictures in manual are no help. What's the fix here?
Thanks in advance.
Jim Hurd New Mexico hurd(at)riolink.com 2 spars in the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fresh air systems |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>I'm glad to see this talk about fresh air breathing systems
>(long-winded as it may seem to some :-). I primed most of my plane
without one --
> I sure hope I don't get some horrible cancer some day as a result.
Right you are Randall. I too, used a high quality canister respirator
for priming, and I wish I had used something a little better. I visited
a friend that is painting his -4 yesterday, and his brother is a long
time auto painter. While we were talking, the brother started spraying a
finish coat of Imron onto a dozen small to medium size parts on a table
with NO breathing aparatus whatsoever. I immediately left the hangar,
and asked my friend if his brother painted the whole airplane that way.
"Naw, he used a face mask for most of it".
He is using basically a glorified dust mask for this task. I asked him
if he realized how nasty this stuff is, and his response was that he
painted vehicles for a living and knew what he was doing. Yikes.
I spent over 10 years as a pinstriper, and was always amazed at the way
body painters treated the highly toxic materials that they use. A lot of
them don't bother with any type of mask, and I've never seen any of them
use a closed pressure system. The paint that is utilized for pinstriping
used to have a LOT of lead in it, and another 'striper I knew used to
pallete his brushes using his fingers.
Please people, use adequate protection. Most polyurethanes used in the
auto biz are very hazardous, but they are mild compared to Imron and
other similar aircraft type paints.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Fittings |
OK: On the RV-4 fitting 405 is attached to the leading edge of the fuel
tank. Fitting 463 is the fuselage fitting that attaches it to the fuselage.
The plans show 405 to be 2 1/2 inches long and 463 to be 2 inches
long.....which doesn't leave much overlap (an inch or so) for edge distance
for the bolt that holds the two together. Is it like the rear spar fitting
that has 5/8" minimum or does it have to be the whole inch (hope not) like
it sorta almost hardly shows in the plans. Hmmmmmmmm....always something.
Thanks.......
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
FLAPS: For those of you making your flaps (prepunched excepted), you might
consider leaving your outboard rib and hinge off until the wings are on so
you can fit them, as there isn't a whole lot of clearance between the
fuselage and the inboard aspect of the flaps if constructed according to the
plans.
Just a thought............
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Colwell <colwell(at)innercite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube location question |
Patrick Kelley wrote:
>=20
> =3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: Patrick Kelley
>=20
> Curtis R. Hinkley wrote:
> >
> > I will be using a AN 5814-12 Pitot Static tube and my question
> > concerns the placement of the tube.
> >
> > I would like to locate the Pitot static tube on the middle access pla=
te
> > on the left wing. This would place the tube 57=94 from the center li=
ne
> > which is 21=94 farther out than the tip of the prop. Since the AN 58=
14
> > tube is 10=94 long this would allow the placement of the opening to =
be
> > 11=94 to 13=94 behind the leading edge of the wing and 6.5=94 below i=
t.
> >
> > If you think the above location is not OK, can you tell me what guide
> > lines I should use to figure out where to place it.
>=20
> I am far from expert on pitot systems, but the only critical measuremen=
t
> I saw in the documentation that came with my tube was distance from the
> surface (I forget the measurement, which is at home but should be with
> your tube as well). I would expect that you would want the tube
> parallel to the relative wind at cruise (or maybe landing would be more
> critical?), and I think that the specified distance from the mounting
> surface would prevent airflow effects from the wing from disturbing the
> readings to a great degree.
>=20
> However, I decided to move my mount from the access plate area because
> it would interfere with my ability to reach in and work with the
> bellcrank assembly. I have heard some folks moved it inboard one bay; =
I
> went outboard one. Hope this helps.
>=20
> PatK - RV-6A - in downtime due to painter's vacation :(
I just moved my heated pitot to the bellcrank access plate from the bay
outboard of the access plate to avoid tiedown rope interference. RV
tiedown rings are ALWAYS inboard of the tiedown anchors at airports. One
flight since the mod---stall at 60 w/flaps, 65 no flaps mph IAS.=20
Steve Colwell
Steve Colwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Suppport Angles |
>
>The two .125 angles sit on a .063 angle at the aft end of this assembly.
>Plans call for rivets and inch or so forward of where the angles are
>riveted together. Problem is there is about .063 space between rib web
>and .125 angle. Can't find mention of a spacer. Nothing in archives.
>Pictures in manual are no help. What's the fix here?
>
It's not a big deal just pull them down, there is very little stress
placed on the rib at that point, especially since you have to cut that
big slice in the lightening hole! Actually it seems that those rivets
are just to keep things from shaking around and causing abrasion (IMHO).
greg
Gregory W. Ratcliff
nz8r+@osu.edu
ICBM 39-59.694, 83-01.932
In the Air N1697X
On the Air NZ8R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy to front deck fairing |
Dan, I'm halfway through my front canopy to deck fairing right now. Did
it just the way George did in his video. I'll admit however that being
able to remove it and do the finish work seems like the easiest way and
maybe would result in a better finished product but I was concerned
about the bond to the plexi and aluminum. I especially did not way to
drill and rivet the plexi. On the other hand, there are already a bunch
of rivets in the canopy and I think your idea of bonding the finished
product to the deck and plexi may be the way to go.
sanding the inside curves is not the easiest task
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Suppport Angles |
| From: | durbanski(at)juno.com (Daniel R Urbanski) |
Hi James, I just encountered the same delima. If you look at the assembly
picture of the bell crank in the manual you will see that the two .125
angles have been relieved .063 deep and back just enough, so that the
angles will make contact with the rib. If you do this make sure you
leave a generous radius where you remove the material.
Regard's
Daniel RV6a left wing
writes:
>
>The two .125 angles sit on a .063 angle at the aft end of this
>assembly.
>Plans call for rivets and inch or so forward of where the angles are
>riveted together. Problem is there is about .063 space between rib
>web
>and .125 angle. Can't find mention of a spacer. Nothing in archives.
>
>Pictures in manual are no help. What's the fix here?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Jim Hurd New Mexico hurd(at)riolink.com 2 spars in the jig
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube location question |
Steve Colwell wrote:
>
> I just moved my heated pitot to the bellcrank access plate from the bay
> outboard of the access plate to avoid tiedown rope interference. RV
> tiedown rings are ALWAYS inboard of the tiedown anchors at airports. One
> flight since the mod---stall at 60 w/flaps, 65 no flaps mph IAS.
> Steve Colwell
Steve that seems a little high, what kind of numbers did you get
before? My -6 indicates about 52 and 55 and that seems to be
about the norm with the other -6's I fly with. If I carry some
power and drag it in I can land at 60-65
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
>
>FLAPS: For those of you making your flaps (prepunched excepted), you might
>consider leaving your outboard rib and hinge off until the wings are on so
>you can fit them, as there isn't a whole lot of clearance between the
>fuselage and the inboard aspect of the flaps if constructed according to the
>plans.
>
>Just a thought............
>
>Michael
>
>
And a very good thought at that. I'm making a new flap for my RV-6 and this
idea will make it MUCH more likely that it will fit easily.
It's kind of like a 'joke' that I saw several years ago. Van is looking at
an RV that obviously will never fly and is saying, 'What, you followed the
plans??!!'. We need to realize that our aircraft must be built piece by
piece and the pieces have to fit each other.
When I was building my RV I built the roll-over bar exactly according to the
plans; did a beautiful job, looked perfect and it was perfect except for one
small detail. It didn't fit the fuselage. I had not fastened down the
longerons tight enuf and the fuselage was about 3/16" too wide. The extra
width wasn't any problem except the roll-over bar was too narrow now.
The moral of this story is that you should use the plans as a guide but
always remember that the parts HAVE to fit each other. Maybe there are
builders that can and do build everything perfectly and everything fits the
first time. I'm not one of those and I don't think most of us are, either.
Our forte is the ability to 'make it fit'. I think that is a good
description of what it takes to make a homebuilder; we just gotta make it fit.
Thanks, Michael, for a good tip.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
A
>Why not make the instrument panel removable? Attach it with screws
>per Frank Justice, but cut it vertically flush with the inside edge
>of the right canopy deck to allow it to be pulled straight out past
>the roll bar. It's neat, clean and the area you lose at the extreme
>right is miniscule.
>
>
>Peter Bennett
>Sydney Australia
>RV6 building sliding canopy
>
FWIW, on my panel (tilt-up) I removed the "ears" (lower corners) below the
canopy deck since I stuffed the fresh air vents there. I discovered this
allows the panel to be lifted straight out, rather than slid back and up,
much easier on the paint too. kevin 6A -almost moving time!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Panel Manufacturers |
>In my experience with spam cans I have seen shock mounted panels
>shiver and shake just as you describe, primarily at idle. I think
>you have a good point here.
>
when flying Wally's WACO the front panel would shake so much that one day it
readjusted the altimeter. I started pulling the stick to stop aileron rolls
not believing the PIC would continue them at 900' agl. Of course
communication is near impossible other than sign language. kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
Very Nice thought Michael!
I am starting my flaps tomorrow. . . great timing!
ITS APPRECIATED!
Thanks
Rob Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Colwell <colwell(at)innercite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube location question |
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
> Steve Colwell wrote:
> >
>
> > I just moved my heated pitot to the bellcrank access plate from the bay
> > outboard of the access plate to avoid tiedown rope interference. RV
> > tiedown rings are ALWAYS inboard of the tiedown anchors at airports. One
> > flight since the mod---stall at 60 w/flaps, 65 no flaps mph IAS.
> > Steve Colwell
>
> Steve that seems a little high, what kind of numbers did you get
> before? My -6 indicates about 52 and 55 and that seems to be
> about the norm with the other -6's I fly with. If I carry some
> power and drag it in I can land at 60-65
>
> --
> Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
> jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
I think its high too. I did not slow-fly a triangle to verify the
airspeed error with my GPS since my alternator failed shortly after
takeoff and I cut the flight short. B&C alternator should be here mon.
or tue. (cheap parts are the most expensive you can get---you get to buy
them twice). Steve Colwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank Suppport Angles |
--WebTV-Mail-1591169984-4046
Jim,
It's not in the plans but if you look closely in at the pictures in
the manual, you can see the .125 angles are rabbited where they overlap
the .063 angles.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
Fuselage in jig
--WebTV-Mail-1591169984-4046
Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 17:10:08 -0600
From: "James K. Hurd" <riolink.com!hurd(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Bellcrank Suppport Angles
The two .125 angles sit on a .063 angle at the aft end of this assembly.
Plans call for rivets and inch or so forward of where the angles are
riveted together. Problem is there is about .063 space between rib web
and .125 angle. Can't find mention of a spacer. Nothing in archives.
Pictures in manual are no help. What's the fix here?
Thanks in advance.
Jim Hurd New Mexico hurd(at)riolink.com 2 spars in the jig
--WebTV-Mail-1591169984-4046--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley) |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for two RV's |
Jerry,
Thank you for the heads up on the Landings page. I had been to the
AV-Web page and found the name of the owner of the "6" but they did not
have the "4" listed.
Curtis Hinkley
RV-8
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
You wrote:
>Curtis
>If you look at <http://www.landings.com> and then once there click on
>the search button that is on the blue header bar it will take you to
>a N number search menu, enter the N number(s) and you will find the
two airplanes you are looking for, they are built by the same person.
>
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro,
OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
Now that I've decided on the I0360 engine with constant speed prop for my
6A, I've naturally started to think of ways to minimize weight to make up
for the extra 30 or so pounds the bigger engine and extended prop wil
weigh. Since I am interested in a VFR night/day airplane, I wonder what
would be the lightest, sufficient panel. I'm sure by the time I'm
finished (hopefuly one to two years), a good GPS will come as a prize in
Cheerios boxes or free in the mail with America Online software. I
believe FAA minimum would be airspeed, altimeter, tach, oil temperature
and a fuel gauge for each tank. Considering my wish to have the lightest
possible equipment, what do you fellow builders recommend / use / wish
you had?
B.T.W. I still have a great deal on cowling and wheel pants.
Paul Lein
6A, fuselage insisting on expensive components soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Minimal Instruments |
Personally having flown thousands of approachs with all the lastest
equipment of the time as a professional I have elected to keep my panel
simple. I have elected to put in RMI's encoder that has altitude, airspeed
and vertical speed on it. There will be a mounted handheld GPS that will
serve as nav aid and the ground speed can back up the encoder air speed
listed above. I will install turn/bank (or artificial horizon, still
thinking on that) a vertical card compass (its back up is GPS) a Radio Shack
clock/timer ($15.99) and most important, the Nav-Aid autopilot. The engine
instruments are going to be handled by the RMI monitor. One comm radio, one
transponder, a hand held transciever (back up comm/nav for serious cross
countries). I think that is it. In otherwords I really just want to fly a
fun sports plane. The full panel reminds me of (scary) work. It probably is
all right for some guys in a RV (with a mile or more vis to stay FAA legal).
I have known some fine pilots lose it on that one bad day. Remember "KISS".
I'm putting just enough to maybe get me out of that one stupid position I
might get my self into. The more I have the more might be tempted to "let
try it".
Different strokes.......for......different folks.
Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unison LASAR |
>
>
>Van's: Could you send me a copy of Unison Service Letter #196. (Unison
> said I should get it from you.)
>
>I talked to a fellow at Unison about the kind of RPM signal they provide
>their black box, and if it could be used to display on a tach. He said it
>is a 4 pulse square wave, and that I would have to talk to tach people to
>find the appropriate tach.
>
>
>Not to imply that we have any "tachy" people on this list, but am
>wondering if anyone might know enough about tachs to send me in the
>direction of a tach that would work with the 4 pulse square wave signal.
>My preference would be an analog display if that were possible.
>
>Thank You....!
>
>Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q #60011, rigging empenage, Seattle area
>rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
>FAX 360 692 2818
Ron, Elevtronics International (digital) has a version that will work. Why
not give UMA (in NY/NJ area) a call. They developed a nice analog tach that
was driven by the p-leads, but it did not work too well because it was too
sensitive to the signal the p-leads provided. If you can convince him to
design one for this system, it would be great, and you could be his test
bed. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Plumbing |
>
>Which fitting is required to screw into the carburator fuel line inlet
>on an 0360-A1A. Is it a standard AN pipe to flare or is it one of the
>specialty fittings Vans sells for plumbing the fuel line to the
>mechanical fuel pump.
>--
>Chet Razer
>crazer(at)egyptian.net
>
The standard AN pipe fitting for a -6 fitting which is a 1/4" pipe thread,
preferably steel. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV builders in Vero Beach, FL area? |
I am going to be doing some flight testing in the Vero Beach, FL area for a
week or so starting May 7. If there are any RV builders who could use an
extra hand building or taste testing malt beverages please let me know. I
plan to start an RV-8 as soon as I get my house sold and move to the other
side of town.
Take care,
Kevin Horton
future RV-8 builder (lurking and gathering info, tools, etc)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Weller <clue(at)sig.use.it> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimal Panel |
>
>Now that I've decided on the I0360 engine ...
snip,
> Considering my wish to have the lightest
>possible equipment, what do you fellow builders recommend / use / wish
>you had?
>
>B.T.W. I still have a great deal on ... wheel pants.
>Paul Lein
Don't need the wheel pants, eh? Well, my wish would be for the landing
gear position lights. You know, up and down. I think they're required.
Seriously, I hope that you will keep us informed about the IO-360 work. I'm
still a long ways from making that decision, but your opinions are greatly
appreciated.
As for the retractable gear, I bet someone (a better man than me) will
do that, too.
Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Suppport Angles |
>
>The two .125 angles sit on a .063 angle at the aft end of this assembly.
>Plans call for rivets and inch or so forward of where the angles are
>riveted together. Problem is there is about .063 space between rib web
>and .125 angle. Can't find mention of a spacer. Nothing in archives.
>Pictures in manual are no help. What's the fix here?
Jim,
On my QB they simply placed the rivets as called for with no spacer, the rib
and angle simply bend to meet each other.
On a fellow builders wing, the .125 angle has been relieved to accept the
.063 angle. One's simpler to build, the other looks better. I suspect
they're both airworthy.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air System - a vacuum cleaner, hat & bag? |
As far as hose, I am using 3/4" air hose I purchased from a
> sandblasting supply company. I believe it was manufactured by Clemco or
> Bullard and used to supply fresh air to their blasting hoods. The
> legnth I bought was either forty or fifty feet and has worked out well.
> In fact, I had to install a baffle on my heating / a/c blower to reduce
> the amount of air at the mask.
>
> Robert Miller
Thanks, I didn't think that 3/4" would move enough volume, that may
solve the problem
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for two RV's |
If you know of these RV?s
> and can provide me with a name and phone number I would really appreciate
> it.
Have you tried an FAA database search engine?
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto spark plugs & leads |
/Any listners out there have experience with "Auto Sparkplugs and
/Leads"? There was a mention sometime back of the use of these but
/no comments I have check in the archives, but didn't find anything.
/I believe the last comment was by Robert Nuckolls,III.
Igntion systems by Jeff Rose, Klaus Xavier and others use coils
which are automotive adaptations. Using anything but stock
automotive spark plug wiring and plugs would be a lot of hassle.
The technologies for automotive wires and plugs are quite suited
to aircraft applications . . . as demonstrated by what must now
be hundreds of electronic ignition systems in the air today.
/Also the "Trim Switch" discussion about dual switches. The planes
/I flew for most of my career had this dual switch arrangement.
/It was a preflight check of the control system. I have been looking
/for this type of switch for my electric elevator trim. They were two
/switches in one, about as wide as your thumb located on the wheel.
/Push both switches up-trim nose down/ pull down nose up. Release
/either sw., trimming should stop. I have check local electronic
/stores and cataloges like Mouser and no luck? Any of you electronic
/guys know where to look for this type of switch?
These tend to be custom devices and built by people like OTTO
and MicroSwitch. They generally require a rather massive control
horn grip . . . no problem on a Lear or King-Air. I'm looking
into ways to fabricate this kind of action using miniature switches
available off-the-shelf. They would have to go into a stick grip
with a molding designed to accomodate the switch. Will keep you
informed.
/The switch is probably are one of those "not cost effective"
/items. I'm beginning to think I should have stuck to all manual
/trim. I did revert back to manual Flaps.
You can implement a VERY failure tolerant system using the stock
"coolie hat" type switches combined with either a "TRIM ARM"
pushbutton on the stick or a "MASTER TRIM DISCONNECT". Either
system may be built up from currently available components.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
/I've seen a couple of RV's locally that have had the fuselage
/longerons beside the instrument panel so peppered with holes
/for grounds there's not much left to carry structural loads.
If you want to ground to airplane structure like this, rivet
an aluminum strip to the longeron with about on rivet per
inch centered on the longeron. Then drill holes in the plate
for grounding screws. Use lock nuts on these joints to keep
things snug . . .
Better yet, check into ground blocks by B&C that bolt to
opposite sides of firewall using fat brass bolt. The ground
block inside provides 48 places to nail down grounds for
instrument panel mounted goodies. When istalled as recommended,
it's as quiet a ground system as you can get and does not
compromise structure in any way.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimal Panel |
Paul Lein wrote:
>
>
> Now that I've decided on the I0360 engine with constant speed prop for my
> 6A, I've naturally started to think of ways to minimize weight to make up
> for the extra 30 or so pounds the bigger engine and extended prop wil
> weigh. Since I am interested in a VFR night/day airplane, I wonder what
> would be the lightest, sufficient panel. I'm sure by the time I'm
Use RMI's Micro-monitor and Micro-Encoder, and a couple of gas guages
along with a turn coordinator from Vans and a compass.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel lubrication/electronic ignition |
RVers,
Below is an old message that didn't arrive due to Matt's servers problems.
I do have the new tailwheel on the airplane and have flown the RV-6 several
times since installation. The installation works fine. I haven't noticed
much of a difference. I do notice that the tailspring seems to be
softer--less jarring and noisy when taxiing over pavement breaks. Even
though Van's full swivel tailwheel sets the tail lower than the Aviation
Products tailwheel, I can't tell the difference when either taxiing or on
take off or landing.
I have a couple of hours on the Jeff Rose E.I. installation. The engine
does seem to start easier. Hopefully, I'll get some fuel burn statistics
over the next few weeks.
Later this summer, I'll get a pretty good idea if the timing advance helps
out in high density altitude situations (lower manifold pressure).
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
*************
Fellow RVers,
I'm in the process of fitting a new tail spring with Van's full swivel
tailwheel to replace my Aviation Products tailwheel installation. The paint
is curing and I should have it on the RV-6 in a couple of days.
I have a question about grease distribution on the shaft of the tail wheel
fork. I'm sure the non-full swivel tailwheel is similar. Have any of you
"old timers" checked this shaft for wear? Is the grease evenly distributed?
On the full swivel, the grease zerk is at the top of the shaft. It seems
that the grease would have trouble migrating to the bottom of the shaft.
Would it make sense to put a "path" for the grease to follow, either down on
the shaft or down the brass bushing? I was thinking about "grooving" a path
with a small burr on a Dremel tool from the grease zerk, down. Tommorrow, I
think I'll dis-assemble the Aviation Product tail wheel and give the list a
report on how it's holding up.
I want this tailwheel weldment to last as long as possible. I'm about out
of the extra "touch up paint" that I saved when I painted my plane. I don't
want to have to worry about replacing worn parts for a long, long time and I
don't want to eventually have to buy a quart of paint just to paint a new fork.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Les,
Spacers are acceptable, you usually need a couple of washers in here.
Leo Davies
>
>Hi,
>
>I need advice about the elevator horns. With the prepunched kit you do not
>have the option to move or reposition any thing. Now my problem is if I
>rivet the horns to the elevators the other end (of the horns) does not make
>a tight fit around the bearing in the centre of the VS rear spar. Could
>some body tell me if it acceptable to place spacers between bearings and
>horns????? If not any suggestions what I might do would be greatly
>appreciated.
>
>Les Rowles.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | 3rd class med for Recreational cert? |
It appears that I have a choice of ceasing my medication OR getting a 3rd
class cert. This, in spite of the fact that the AME and the prescribing
doctor (an advisor to AOPA and a pilot) both wrote to the F@#$%@#%@AA
stating that the "pathology does not warrent rejection".
So...........
I've heard tell that maybe the recreational pilot cert. is a self-certify.
Any truth to that? The FAR's say no but I'm told that the issue was just
recently adjudicated.
And if it is in my favor, what restrictions exist for flying in Class D
airspace (my nearest airport)?
If it is not in my favor, can anyone tell me if I can learn to fly a
motorglider from my Class D airspace? The local FBO has one for rent but
was unable to tell me just how I would be able to solo it or do a
cross-country.
I am NOT going to give up on this. If I have to, I'll build my RV-6 and
simply go flying with someone who has a ticket.
Steamed up
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
| Subject: | RE: vari-prime source |
I do not know of a source for vari-primer, could someone help me out
here. I have looked in all my catalogs and come up with nothing. I
don't even know who manufactures the product.
Thanks
cgn(at)pond.net
Craig G. Nelson
Eugene, OR
building RV-6 empenage
wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: vari-prime source |
>I do not know of a source for vari-primer, could someone help me out
>here. I have looked in all my catalogs and come up with nothing. I
>don't even know who manufactures the product.
>Craig G. Nelson
Craig, Variprime is a DuPont product. ---- Bob Skinner RV6
BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
<< FLAPS: For those of you making your flaps (prepunched excepted), you might
consider leaving your outboard rib and hinge off until the wings are on so
you can fit them, as there isn't a whole lot of clearance between the
fuselage and the inboard aspect of the flaps if constructed according to the
plans.
>>
You could also inset the outboard rib 1/8" or so. This wouldn't affect the
structure of the thing, but it would allow some trimming if you have a fit
problem.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: vari-prime source |
>
>
> I do not know of a source for vari-primer, could someone
help me out
> here. I have looked in all my catalogs and come up with
nothing. I
> don't even know who manufactures the product.
Check with your friendly neighborhood auto parts store that
carries
Dupont auto finish supplies.
D. Anderson
RV-4, wings (still)
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Suppport Angles |
James K. Hurd wrote:
>
> The two .125 angles sit on a .063 angle at the aft end of this assembly.
> Plans call for rivets and inch or so forward of where the angles are
> riveted together. Problem is there is about .063 space between rib web
> and .125 angle. Can't find mention of a spacer. Nothing in archives.
> Pictures in manual are no help. What's the fix here?
>
Noticed that, did you? :) Well, the angles are there to stiffen up the
rib around the cutout for the bellcrank, as well as provide a bearing
surface for the bellcrank pivot. You can just drill, prime and rivet
with no problems, or you could cut the angles to fit each other.
Probably the rib could be joggled for a better fit with the least amount
of effort. After I fitted the angles to the rib, I saw that the entire
structure was stiff and well positioned without bothering to 'clean up'
the joint.
PatK - RV-6A - Flew R/C gliders this weekend instead of bending metal...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L & M Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
Thank you to all who responded to my question about horns. I guess I will
no doubt ask more dumb questions as I go along. Could anoy Vans with them
but: Hey whats the list for??
I have been lucky enough to be spending some time in other peoples RVs and
can't stand the thought of how long this project is going to take, before I
can just fly my own.
Does anybody else just go to the workshop for a couple of hours after dinner
and then at 1 or 2 or 3 o'clock have to face she who must be obeyed?
Thanks again Les Rowles.
Les Rowles
Po Box 1895
Traralgon
Australia 3844
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Is it possible to parallel two airspeed indicators on one pitot tube
without sacrificing accuracy? (just thinking of one for the backseat)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry WARD <ward(at)axime.com> |
| Subject: | Dallas RV Builder Group |
I will be coming for some time to work in the North Dallas TX area. Is there
a local RV builders group or EAA chapter? If so could someone give me
contact names and telephone numbers.
Please reply off line to ward(at)axime.com
Many thanks.
Barry Ward.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dual airspeed |
Michael; I'm no expert on this, but I see absolutely no reason as to why
you couldn't put two indicators on the one pitot tube. I think of it the
same as a hydraulic system. And on the experience side, the T-33 had only
one pitot tube and it had two indicators, samo on the F-4.
>Is it possible to parallel two airspeed indicators on one pitot tube
>without sacrificing accuracy? (just thinking of one for the backseat)
>
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dual airspeed |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Michael,
Yes. Airspeed indicators are differential PRESSURE sensing devices.
They
do not require an airflow, so multiple units have no effect on accuracy.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
(Michael C. Lott) writes:
>
>Is it possible to parallel two airspeed indicators on one pitot tube
>without sacrificing accuracy? (just thinking of one for the backseat)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Is it possible to parallel two airspeed indicators on one pitot tube
without sacrificing accuracy? (just thinking of one for the backseat)
It should work OK. There is no velocity of air in a pitot line, only pressure.
Pressure is the same throughout the system, unless there's a leak.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Bonding structure to skins |
Hi,
I don't know if this has been mentioned on list before (probably). I
thought I'd mention it, as some may want to use the idea. Before
riveting ribs, bulkheads, etcetra to the skins, apply some proseal (I
can hear the groans from here) on the joint surface. Tape off the area
around the joint to prevent getting Pro-Seal on areas it isn't wanted
on. Rivet together as usual. This will create a joint that will stay
together even if half the rivets fall out. It also will reduce the
tendancy of large surfaces to oilcan and insure a watertight joint.
I learned about this trick from Jody Edwards of Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.
Jody is building a beautiful RV-4. He is an A&P working for Rayethon at
FT. Lauderdale International Airport. He used to work on Lear Jets. He
said that this is how everything is built on Lear Jets. Pro Seal is a
great adhesive, with great strength. I've been helping him install
control systems in his fuselage recently. He does VERY nice work.
Jody is a tech councelor for EAA Chapter 133 and runs the sheetmetal
workshop at Sun "n Fun. Jody doesn't own a computer, a situation I will
remedy soon by loaning him one for the summer. That ought to get him on
the list first hand.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Peck <dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: edge distance |
Dave I have seen the same problem on three aircraft.
One had a doubler made that fitted inside the rib to pick up on the the end
flange, and the side flanges (two rivets spaces long by the width of the
flange) and the joggles were cut off the end of the side flanges so the
doubler sat flush with the skin all round. = alot of work but very professional.
Another had a 'L' shape doubler the width of the rib with about 1 inch legs
on the top of the rib/spar join, with 3 rivets into each. = easy but doesn't
really transfer loads the same.
Vans was contacted for the other which was done as below.
Date: 04 Dec 96 12:37:00 EST
From: Vangrunsven <76455.1602(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: VS-407 edge distance
" what I think you are saying, is that the ribs attachment to the forward
spar VS-402 may
not have good edge distance... if this is so, then the factory recommendation is
to just replace the flange on the rib with a wider or longer one.... .032 al in
a 'L' shape 1x1 riveted in place of the original flange on the rib is more than
adequate...
Tom @ Van's
>
>Help!
> I just finished drilling my VS skin to the skeleton and upon
>disassembly discovered I have no
>edge distance on the last rivet hole (the holes are half on half off the
>end of the flange) on the VS 407 flanges (I think that is the number) where
>they intersect with the 402 front spar. I am considering removing a
>portion (1/4") of the 407 flange in this area and riveting through just the
>skin and spar on these two rivets. What do you engineers think? This seems
>reasonable to me as this is a stressed skin system(ie: the strenght is not
>in the skeleton alone.). I will call Vans Monday AM but wanted some input
>in the meantime.
> These prepunched skins can be a real pain at times like this as I have
not
>been able to
>get my spars and ribs to match up with the prepunched holes on either the
>HS or VS when layed out according to the plan dimensions.
>(I would look in the archives but can't seem to get to them with this
>system)
>
>Dave Bergh
>Mtn Home ID
>RV 6 emp.
>
>
regards
David Peck
dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au
Perth, Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Prado (Excell Data)" <v-jerryp(at)microsoft.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Frey Jigs |
I would like to purchase the wing and/or fuse jigs formerly offered by
Frey Engineering.
Please contact
Jerry Prado
v-jerryp(at)microsoft.com
206-566-6147
888-204-5330
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: vari-prime source |
craig Nelson wrote:
>
>
> I do not know of a source for vari-primer, could someone help me out
> here. I have looked in all my catalogs and come up with nothing. I
> don't even know who manufactures the product.
> Thanks
> cgn(at)pond.net
> Craig G. Nelson
> Eugene, OR
> building RV-6 empenage
> wings on order
Craig,
Try your local automotive paint supplier.
Ed Cole RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Blade pitot connection |
Got a electronically chaleged question. The pitot blade (Piper Type) has
two wires, there is "P" stamp next to one and a "S" stamped to the other. My
guess was P stood for wire to pressure and S stood for the wire static for
heating. Does that make sense to the electrons?
Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.att.com |
Anyone have the ISBN for the "Skyranch Engine Manual" ??
thanks
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
RV-6A Horizontal Stabilizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
Does anybody else just go to the workshop for a couple of hours after
dinner and then at 1 or 2 or 3 o'clock have to face she who must be
obeyed?
"She" will soon figure out the craftsman's timekeeping system: "A
Minute" is a time period equal to NO LESS than 1 hour as measured on a
timepiece. "An Hour" is an undefinable (but necessarily long) time
period. See, there's nothing to it - it's just that she doesn't
understand... yet :)
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 Wing Skin for sale |
| From: | "Sam Ray" <str(at)almaden.ibm.com> |
For Sale: Complete set of RV6 wing skins (NOT pre-punched). San Jose, CA
area.
str(at)almaden.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Helpful hint # 316 |
Here's a small trick I got from my tech counselor when he visited my
project this weekend:
I had bent the last 3/4" bend in my fuel sender float arm to wrong
direction and knew bending it 180 degrees would break it. He said I
could *twist* that last leg around 180 degrees so it pointed in the
right direction, and the load/stress would be taken up by the length of
the supporting arm. Worked great. I'm sure this is common sense to
many, but I didn't know it and saved me buying a new float arm!
Mitch Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME San Jose, CA
Finishing fuel tanks, hanging flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Beauchamp <tbeauchamp(at)sagenttech.com> |
I'm almost afraid to post this. I just got my RV-6A empennage kit and
about $2k of tools, when it ocurred to me after reading about diet pills
that I am subject to occasional migraine headaches. I have them
infrequently (2-3 times a year), and they are ALWAYS controlled by my
prescription medication (Midrin) Is it possible that I will be denied a
pilots license because of infrequent potential need for prescription
migraine medication? Any migraine suffering pilots out there? What do
you do? HELP please!
Hello;
A friend of mine on the list forwarded it on to me. I would like to
share my
experiences.
I am subject to severe classic migraines. All of the symptoms
"DejaVue"'ish feeling
prior to any pain or interference, sparkle vision, sensitivity to light
and severe and
debilitating pain. I have been taking a beta-blocker medication daily
for 3.5 years
and during that time I have had only two migraines, both of which when I
had
discontinued my medication for a few days.
When I was getting my 3d Class med., the examiner felt that this needed
to be
cleared my the FAA and sent the paperwork on to Oklahoma City. I would
too,
I guess because a person in the middle of one of these things should not
ride a bike,
let alone pilot an aircraft. The FAA asked for a letter from my
personal care physician
and my medical records. The letter from my MD confirmed my statements
that my
condition is completely controlled by medication. The medication has no
ability
impairing side affects (Supposedly, it lowers your sex drive, but hey,
more time to fly
right?) and I am always aware of an impeding migraine at least an hour
before the onset
any severe symptoms. Plus he said that he had no reservations
recommending that they
grant me the medical.
A call to the AOPA medial help line also confirmed that the beta-blocker
that I was taking
is on the list of approved medication by the FAA for not being a
problem. That was good
information to have. Eventually, after a few months of calling the FAA
weekly and a couple
trips to collect the letter and all that, I got my 3d class without any
restrictions on it.
Here is what I would do if I were to do it all over:
Start now.
It delayed my solo for 3 months. Big bummer.
Call AOPA and get all the current information about piloting and
migraines. Including
a list of what they think the FAA Med Examiner might want.
Get a full check-up with your primary care physician. This will also
help avoid any
surprises like Blood pressure, hearing or vision problems. Specifically
speak with him (her)
about your migraines and your 3d class medical examination. Ask him for
a letter to
the FAA addressing your condition and your medication. Have him be
prepared to send
your file off to them.
The paperwork lag is terrible. It took 2 or 3 weeks to get my case even
looked into
after it was sent in. It seemed like the FAA person in OkCity would
request my
file on Friday, the request letter would not get processed until the
following Friday and take
a week to get to my doctor.
Call regularly to find out where in the process you are and try to have
everything needed in
advance.
Good luck. And remember, It is worth it.
Tim Beauchamp
tbeauchamp(at)SagentTtech.com
timb(at)googol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: vari-prime source |
I think Vari-Prime is a DuPont product. I used it under Imron on my RV6A
Jim Headrick, Portland, Or.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Suppport Angles |
>
>The two .125 angles sit on a .063 angle at the aft end of this assembly.
>Plans call for rivets and inch or so forward of where the angles are
>riveted together. Problem is there is about .063 space between rib web
>and .125 angle. Can't find mention of a spacer. Nothing in archives.
>Pictures in manual are no help. What's the fix here?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Jim Hurd New Mexico hurd(at)riolink.com 2 spars in the jig
>
>
Hi Jim,
The best approach is to relieve the ends of the .125 angle to allow the
.063 angles to rest on them and sit flush on the rib without "mashing" the
rib when installing the rivets. We have just the fix you need here. We
fabricate that bellcrank assembly for right and left wing using CNC mills.
The parts are complete with full taper cuts, relief cut at ends, all holes
including neutral pin location for quick and easy rigging and are gold
anodized. If you don't want to build these parts they are available as a
complete assembly. All you have to do is drill thru the existing holes and
rivet in place. If this perks anyones interest please let me know if you
need them. I also have a computer drawing of this area to clarify any
questions you might have.
Life is short-build fast! Then fly away.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Re: Blade pitot connection |
The wires have no relation to the P and the S. There should be a plumbing tube
connection close to the P, and one close to the S. The P stands for pressure.
This is the ram air. The S stands for static. This is the tube that goes to your
static system.
The heater does not care which wire is positive or negative. A caution, there
may be an internal connection for a ground, so check for continuity between both
wires to the metal of the pitot tube. If there is continuity between one of the
April 23, 1997 - - - - , 20-
RV-Archive.digest.vol-cu