RV-Archive.digest.vol-cv
- - - , 20- - May 15, 1997
wires and the pitot tube, you must use this wire as ground. The other wire is
the positive wire.
Hope you don't have sparks.
Warren Gretz
Denver area
gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
| Subject: | Blade pitot connection |
Got a electronically chaleged question. The pitot blade (Piper Type) has
two wires, there is "P" stamp next to one and a "S" stamped to the other. My
guess was P stood for wire to pressure and S stood for the wire static for
heating. Does that make sense to the electrons?
Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: ISBN Needed.. |
>
>Anyone have the ISBN for the "Skyranch Engine Manual" ??
>
>thanks
>
>Paul Bilodeau
>pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
>908-957-6611
>RV-6A Horizontal Stabilizer
>
>
Hi Paul,
Not sure on the ISBN for the manual but Sacramento Sky Ranch toll free # is
(800)433-3564. They have the manual in stock. It's written by John
Schwaner. Hope that's how you spell it. It's great reading and worth every
penny for a good reference.
Life is short-build fast-then fly fast.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lycoming engines |
I am a retired A&P-IA mechanic. I buy and overhaul engines, primarily O-320's
and O-360's for resale to RV builders. I have on hand one IO-360 200 hp
engine ready to install on an RV8. It is from a Mooney 201. Price is
$19,100.
If you have a core, I will overhaul it for you (all legal and signed off) for
a flat rate. If interested, contact me email
Thanks,
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Beckham <76623.1166(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Powersport-Mazda Update |
Our Friday message created some confusion regarding horsepower. In that message
we noted we had used nitrous for the climb competition at Sun'N Fun and also
that we were generating 200 h.p. Here is clarification: our engines are rated
at 200 h.p. without nitrous. With nitrous and increased r.p.m. we generate 350
h.p. This is what made the RV-3 especially potent in the climb competition
before we toasted the aft propeller shaft bearing at the completion of the
cross-country race where Alan Tolle placed first in class in his RV-3 and fifth
overall. On this prototype unit we will retain a plain bearing with some
related modifications. Even before Sun'N Fun we had already incorporated
numerous design refinements into the reduction gear assembly for subsequent
units. Amoung these was replacing this plain bearing with a ball bearing. The
base engine continues to do very well and we are exceptionally pleased with the
service of the various modifications, fuel injection, dual electronic ignition,
etc. A word of caution here folks regarding the use of nitrous on our engines.
We do not have alot of experience yet with this so it remains very experimental
and anybody considering it should proceed with measured caution. Additionally,
putting 350 h.p. through a two-balde wood propeller made it go through some very
strange contortions during testing prior to the time-to-climb race. Hope this
proves helpful.
Steve Beckham, Everett Hatch
Powersport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Helpful hint # 316 |
I used welding rod to mock-up the bends first. When everything worked
as planned, I bent the real thing to match the welding rod.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
>
> Here's a small trick I got from my tech counselor when he visited my
> project this weekend:
>
> I had bent the last 3/4" bend in my fuel sender float arm to wrong
> direction and knew bending it 180 degrees would break it. He said I
> could *twist* that last leg around 180 degrees so it pointed in the
> right direction, and the load/stress would be taken up by the length of
> the supporting arm. Worked great. I'm sure this is common sense to
> many, but I didn't know it and saved me buying a new float arm!
>
> Mitch Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME San Jose, CA
> Finishing fuel tanks, hanging flaps
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I've come across a relatively inexpensive angle-of-attack device (RiteAngle,
about $200).
It requires the mounting of a small vane (2"x2.5") in a location where there
is a reliable, repeatable difference in the airflow over the vane itself and
the wing's actual AOA (best situation would be pure relative wind, but the
unit has adjustments to compensate).
Wingtip and L.E. boom locations have already been suggested, but I don't
like those due to aesthetics and damage vulnerability, etc.
I am thinking about a location under the wing somewhere around the pitot
tube. Anybody know how far below the wing you would have to go to get some
relative wind?
Thanks,
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>Does anybody else just go to the workshop for a couple of hours after
>dinner and then at 1 or 2 or 3 o'clock have to face she who must be
>obeyed?
>
>"She" will soon figure out the craftsman's timekeeping system: "A
>Minute" is a time period equal to NO LESS than 1 hour as measured on a
>timepiece. "An Hour" is an undefinable (but necessarily long) time
>period. See, there's nothing to it - it's just that she doesn't
>understand... yet :)
Larry
A husband asked "I a man walk all alone deep into the forest and
says something, is he still wrong"? :^)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | One year down the track... Reflections. |
Hi Guys,
Well, it's a year since I received my empennage kit, so I thought I'd take
a moment to reflect:
1. During that year, I spent 350 hours building. A *lot* less than my
planned 1000 hours. In more recent months, my building hours are up to
round 50-60, which seems about the limit of what's sustainable long-term
for me. Based on this, it looks like my plane's about a 5-year project.
2. I now have a pile of quite aeroplane-like items; all the empennage
except the right elevator, and some wing spars. Looking at these, I
optimistically feel like I have a fifth of a plane; realistically I guess
that an eighth is probably about right.
3. I've spent in the region of US$5400 plus NZ$1500. Most of the US$ was on
the emp and wing kits (US$1095+US$3700), and a fair proportion of the rest
went on tools which I get to keep, but there's a heap of freight & tax
which is just lost money.
4. I started off fairly uncertain whether I was sufficiently motivated to
do a long-term project like this. I really wanted a plane, rather than to
build one. That's changed a bit; now I enjoy workshop time for it's own
sake rather than having to focus on the final product.
5. I've developed a lot of skills; I didn't realise how much until I helped
teach someone a few basic rivetting skills. Actually, the teaching was
quite difficult because lots of those skills have been unconscious habits,
like clamping things tightly together for drilling, and deburring parts.
6. I've gained a lot of confidence in using tools, putting things together,
figuring out things from plans, etc.
7. I've met many wonderful people, both in person and on the Net; I think
that homebuilders are perhaps the best bunch in the world! I couldn't have
done it without you guys... thanks.
8. I'm starting to think about what to build after the RV-6!
Frank.... 1 year down, only 4 to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>I need advice about the elevator horns. Could
>some body tell me if it acceptable to place spacers between bearings and
>horns.
I was not thrilled by the elevator control rod bolt being the "torque rod",
if you will, carrying all the connective responsibility of the two horns:
not only does it push and pull the elevators it also takes the shear stress
of any difference in pressure/load between the two elevators.
SOOOoooo.....after installation of the elevators on the fuselage, I made up
a small block to fit between the two horns and ran two AN-3 bolts through.
Now, the bolt from the control rod only carries the push/pull loads while
the two horns are bolted together, functioning as a single unit.
Just something else to think about..........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: minimal panel |
>Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 09:30:44
>To: Paul Lein
>From: Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com>
>Subject: Re: minimal panel
>
>>Thanks for the info. I sure would like to run the IO360 without vacuum
>>pump so I could eliminate all that weight, complexity and plumbing. I
>>really wish I could afford one of the great electric HSIs, but probably I
>>will just go with electric turn and bank. I want to be able to make a
>>safe 180 to get out of any IFR I inadvertently blunder into.
>
> My plan at present is: On the far left of the panel the Apollo
> GPS (used handheld) will be mounted.. next at top is the RMI-encoder
> (has airspeed, altitude & V/S) next will probably be the
> Electric turn & Bank (if & when the budget permits electtric Art.
Horizon will replace it), Next in that row goes G-meter.
> Next row down next to the GPS is Nav-Aid auto pilot head
> (it can also be used as a turn/bank) Next on the second row is
> a Heading unit (still sorting that out) The gas quantity head maybe
> the next one over in that row.
> The next column to the above starting at the top is the Comm. radio,
> Just below is the transponder, next down is the RMI-monitor which
> covers all the engine instruments which is just above engine & prop
> controls. In the far corner will be a deep map & airport dir.
compartment.
> The GPS exchanges info with both the RMI-Encoder and the Nav-Aid
auto pilot.
>
>>I don't know much about the RMI monitor, but I assume it is able to
>>replace a number of mechanical gauges. I am also reluctant to run oil
>>pressure and fuel pressure inside the cockpit as well.
>
> To the best of my knowedge the RMI replaces all eng.instruments,
> with an additional switch you can check all cylinder EGT & CHTs.
> And I believe info is sent via senders, so no tubing goes into the
instrument area.
>
> Unfortunately now
>>that I've decided on the heavier engine I will no longer be able to mount
>>the battery on the firewall the way I had hoped. I had planned to
>>eliminate running the high amperage battery cable through the firewall
>>and I didn't like the inaccessability and clutter of having the battery
>>box near my feet. Maybe I will build a battery mount behind the baggage
>>bulkhead, a la Cherokee, etc.
>
> A couple fellows I know have had to locate their batteries back
> in the baggage due to W & B. I'm checking on the transfer thru
> the firewall. It has been suggested using a brass bolt fastened
> thru the firewall for ground by Bob Nickolls. The rest I'm still
> collecting (I'm waiting for AeroElectric to send his highly
> recommended book for electrically challeged)
>
> That IO-360 should make it a real go-er. I'm powering with a O-320
that Everett Hatch & Co. has now to work up a little magic. I would
have liked a IO-360, oh well, maybe the next one.
>Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
> Lebanon, OR
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KennyCobb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Crafters |
I have been trying to call tank crafters to get some info on pre-built
fuel tanks
and the phone number seems to be out of service. Does any one know if they
are still in business or have a new number ?
Ken Crabtree
kennycobb(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Does anybody else just go to the workshop for a couple of hours after
> >dinner and then at 1 or 2 or 3 o'clock have to face she who must be
> >obeyed?
> >
> >"She" will soon figure out the craftsman's timekeeping system: "A
> >Minute" is a time period equal to NO LESS than 1 hour as measured on a
> >timepiece. "An Hour" is an undefinable (but necessarily long) time
> >period. See, there's nothing to it - it's just that she doesn't
> >understand... yet :)
>
> Larry
> A husband asked "I a man walk all alone deep into the forest and
> says something, is he still wrong"? :^)
My 'she' is nodding her head, and laughing uncontrollably...
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
For any of you that have seen several different types of upholstery from
different companies, which ones do you think looked the best? I need to
order some soon for an rv-4. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 canopy tips, traps and troubles |
Hi guys!
I'm Jody Edwards and I'm new to the RV email list. I'll be using
Charlie's computer while I look for my own machine. Just finished
searching the archives for tips on installing RV-4 canopies. We didn't
find much of use. It seems everyone is building 6's.
I sure would appreciate hearing from anyone on the list as to their
experiences installing the canopy.
Has anyone installed rear seat instruments? I'm thinking of putting an
airspeed and altimeter in the canopy frame for the GIB (guy in back) Has
anyone tried this? Thanks in advance.
Jody Edwards C/O charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com
A&P EAA Chapter 133 tech councelor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Bill B.
I am trying to plan my days for oshkosh around the banquet this year. The
lady we are staying with needs to know the nights we are staying. Which night
is the RV banquet this year?
Ryan Bendure
RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Can anyone suggest a "Blind" method of fastening an adell clamp to a
floor rib? The clamps are to hold a wire bundle. Because the floor
skins are inn place, I will not be able to get to the back side of the
rib.
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
--=20
MZ=90
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ISBN Needed.. |
Anyone have the ISBN for the "Skyranch Engine Manual" ??
Paul Bilodeau
-------------------------------
There is no ISBN number for the manual. It is published privately by
John Schwaner. Just call and put it on plastic. 916/421-7672
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: One year down the track... Reflections. |
<< 3. I've spent in the region of US$5400 plus NZ$1500. Most of the US$ was
on
the emp and wing kits (US$1095+US$3700), and a fair proportion of the rest
went on tools which I get to keep, but there's a heap of freight & tax
which is just lost money. >>
Frank,
Don't add up the money, it hurts too much. Just remenber that if you're on
your're deathbed remember to say to your wife: "Whatever you do dear, don't
sell the tools and the airplane for what I told you I paid for them!"
You are also correct about the skills we pick up along the way, as well as
the people you meet and become friends with. An unexpected bonus?
Regards,
Jon Ross RV-80094 Skinning wings, hands hurt from all of those clecoes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy tips, traps and troubles |
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone installed rear seat instruments? I'm thinking of putting an
> airspeed and altimeter in the canopy frame for the GIB (guy in back)
At Sun 'n Fun this year I saw an RV-4 with a small instrumnet panel
mounted on the seat back. The panel was low, in front of and near the
stick. The instruments were 2.25" dia. and included an airspeed and RPM.
I have a so-so photo that I could digitize and attach. E-mail me direct.
Boris
smbr(at)digital.net
________________________________________________________________________________
<< For any of you that have seen several different types of upholstery from
different companies, which ones do you think looked the best? I need to
order some soon for an rv-4. Thanks. >>
I've seen uph from both D J, and George and Becky Orndorff (GBI). The
product I've seen from both is high quality, but way different in approach to
the uph problem. GBI has an amazingly large quantity of fabric samples, so
much that it's hard to pick one! I use GBI for both my personal a/c and my
customer's because they're closer, and I prefer their solution for the uph
dilemma.
George & Becky came down to the Georgetown Fly-in this past weekend, and let
me try one of their cushions vs my confor-foam model, and the comfort
difference was dramatic. These folks know about seats!
This opinion is free, and you're getting what you paid for!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KOZINSKI GARY <kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One year down the track... Reflections. |
Frank,
I've got ten "productive" years into the building of my RV-6, s/n 20038.
I had a 172 and wanted a project. I continue to make progress with my
dads help and thats all that really counts. We will get there and have
enjoyed (almost) every minute of the RV construction project. We are
realistically looking at another two years before the 6 is flying. She
will be a beauty that I plan to have for a long time there after.
Gary Kozinski RV-6 in Massachusetts
kozinski(at)symbol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
FOR SALE RV-4
0-320 TT 189 SMHO
Sensenich Prop.
Narco transponder and incoder
King Comm
$45,000.00
call Jim Hyde at 871-326-4131
reason for sale wife want a RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA Measurement |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
Rob,
Would you please provide more details on the AOA instrument. Does it
operate by pressure sensing or electrical etc.? what kind of
instrument? Further information would be appreciated.
ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Blade pitot connection |
Warren Thanks! The testing portion of your message got it across to me. I
don't have much trouble with the mechanical end of this machine, had
exposure to a lot of systems (theory) in the schools we had to attend every
six months. Of course theory and hands on work are lots different. The
electrical end seem smoke and mirrors to me. so I check with everybody who
will hold still for it. I was assuming that one should be a ground, but then
(?), so thanks again. That solved a few other questions I had.
Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | One year down the track... |
>>>>From: Frank van der Hulst
8. I'm starting to think about what to build after the RV-6!<<<<<<<<<<<<
How 'bout flight time. <;-) Ya rivet junkie.
Eric Henson
Dana Point, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>For any of you that have seen several different types of upholstery from
>different companies, which ones do you think looked the best?
Michael: I have DJ Lauritsen-built and am very satisfied. I have seen
others she has made, both fabric and leather, and they are very nicely done
(and comfortable). I think it will have to be a matter of you seeing them
yourself (and maybe sitting on them for a while) to decide which are best,
as the two I know of (DJ and GBI) are both nice designs but different. It's
like buying pick-ups: I happen to like Toyota but Dodge has some nice
ones.................
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Blade pitot connect Part II |
WELL Warren..... I went out to check the pitot per your instructions ...and
my total recall must also have wires not connected. Anyway the darn thing
has 4 wires, not just two as a stated before. So I assume that (1) It has
separate heating for Pitot and Static...Right? and (2) I would check as
was suggested in the your last advisory for the ground wire...Right?
Sorry for not getting my facts straight before popping it on the net.
denny h. RV-6
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | Replacement Fuel Caps |
Hi all,
At Sun N Fun I fell in love with the fuel caps that ACS is selling. I forgot
who the manufacturer is but to say the least they are works of art. They
lock, and the mechanism is as smooth as silk as it opens. As I have not yet
built my tanks I would like to replace Van's standard caps with these. The
only place I want to pour fuel is in the tank, not on o-rings.
Has anyone installed these in a prepunched kit? These caps come in 10 hole
configuration but who knows if they will line up. If not, is it possible to
weld the holes shut then drill new ones. Or, in the opinions of those that
have gone before me, would it be acceptable to just fill the holes with pro
seal and then rotate the flange and drill new holes.
This is probably pretty mundane stuff so feel free to E-mail me privately.
Thanks,
Eric Henson
Dana Point, Ca
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | Pre-paint primer |
I want to prime the outside of my completed empennage surfaces.
It'll be a long time before I'm ready to assemble them and to paint
the airplane.
Since I don't know what kind of paint system I'll ultimately use, is
there a generic primer that will protect the surfaces now and be
compatible with whatever finish I put on later?
George Kilishek
RV8 SN 80006
Assembling fuselage bulkhead
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Measurement |
>Rob,
>Would you please provide more details on the AOA instrument. Does it
>operate by pressure sensing or electrical etc.? what kind of
>instrument? Further information would be appreciated.
Ron,
The vane is attached to a potentiometer, that output is used to drive a
display comprised of a vertical row of LED's. The two top LED's are red,
for stall and pre-stall AOA's. The rest are green in even AOA steps -
giving the ability to fly optimal AOA.
The unit also has audio warning options and a second "set" of critical AOA's
for flaps down condition. See
http://members.aol.com/elbie/riteangle/emhome.htm for details (the vane
shown is for a very slow ultralight, for an RV its much smaller at 2"x2.5"
on a 1" long arm).
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Re: Blade pitot connect Part II |
As you have stated in your latest post, there are four wires on your
pitot tube. In that case, two wires are for the pitot, ram air
heating, and two are for the static air port. Also, as you mentioned,
one must check to see if any of the wires are grounded internally, if
they are, the grounded wires must be on the negative lead.
One might also check to see if there is resistance with an ohm meter
across the heater elements. This is to varify that there is indeed
good heater elements in the unit.
Warren Gretz
Denver area
gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Blade pitot connect Part II
Date: 5/6/97 10:13 AM
WELL Warren..... I went out to check the pitot per your instructions ...and
my total recall must also have wires not connected. Anyway the darn thing
has 4 wires, not just two as a stated before. So I assume that (1) It has
separate heating for Pitot and Static...Right? and (2) I would check as
was suggested in the your last advisory for the ground wire...Right?
Sorry for not getting my facts straight before popping it on the net.
denny h. RV-6
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Running Wire |
I dismantled a high priced, obsolete computer that had wire bundles anchored
with the glue on pads. After ten years they were still stuck tight. I think
these are used in aircraft too.
Then there are pop rivets and sheet metal screws.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
> Can anyone suggest a "Blind" method of fastening an adell clamp to a
> floor rib? The clamps are to hold a wire bundle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
Yes, it is permissable and preferable to put spacers between the bearings and
bellcrank that operates the elev.
Jim (A&P)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming engines |
aol.com!JHeadric(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I am a retired A&P-IA mechanic. I buy and overhaul engines, primarily O-320's
> and O-360's for resale to RV builders. I have on hand one IO-360 200 hp
> engine ready to install on an RV8. It is from a Mooney 201. Price is
> $19,100.
>
> If you have a core, I will overhaul it for you (all legal and signed off) for
> a flat rate. If interested, contact me email
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
Jim,
Where are you located?
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
I also desire a minimum panel. I think the $1200 or so for an Electric Ho=
rizon is about a draw vs. a vacuum system. Aren't those vacuum pumps aroun=
d $500 or so?
While I am a VFR pilot, I consider a Horizon to be a MUST! Without one, I=
believe I would be dead twice by now. You haven't lived until you've exp=
erienced spatial disorientation and can absolutely FEEL the plane rolling =
over into a dive, while in reality the wings are level. Made me a believ=
er.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. F. Cimperman, Jr." <Cimperman(at)tusco.net> |
When you find out, can you forward the response to me also?
Thanks Dave
----------
> From: aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com
> To: RV-LIST(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh
> Date: Monday, May 05, 1997 11:22 PM
>
>
> Bill B.
> I am trying to plan my days for oshkosh around the banquet this year.
The
> lady we are staying with needs to know the nights we are staying. Which
night
> is the RV banquet this year?
> Ryan Bendure
> RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Pre-paint primer |
Some sort of epoxy primer would probably be your best choice for
compatability with unknown future finish paints. BUT.... I would
recommend against priming the exterior of your tail now. I did so
thinking that it would be good to protect it, but have since found out
that:
- Finish paint systems depend partially on "chemical bond", which goes
away if the primer has cured beyond a certain length of time
- If you have a paint shop paint your plane, they may not be willing to
guarantee their work if it's going over some "unknown" primer that
someone else put on, and may just want to strip it off anyway
- You'll be a lot more likely to be able to get any contaminants cleaned
off of bare aluminum than from primered surfaces
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Running Wire |
<< Can anyone suggest a "Blind" method of fastening an adell clamp to a
floor rib? The clamps are to hold a wire bundle. Because the floor
skins are inn place, I will not be able to get to the back side of the
rib. >>
Bend the clamp until it's shut (no tension to hold it closed), and use an
LP4-3 rivet with a small pc of 032 drilled #30 for a washer. This assumes the
thing doesn't have to be removed......
There are small (rivet or glue-down) attach pcs available for ty-wraps, too.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cowl not for sale after all |
| From: | Janet Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
I just talked to Rick Bauerman, who is an applications engineer at
Hartzell. He confirmed that the M2YR-1BF/7666A-2 prop is only rated for
up to 3.8 Gs. Since that is the prop Steve Barnard builds his really neat
IO360 cowl around, and I am not interested in fiberglass work enough to
build my own cowl for the IO360, I'm afraid I'll have to stick to the
parallel valve 360 and the C2YK prop Van's supplies. While I don't intend
to do extensive aerobatics, it doesn't seem sensible to me to build a 6 G
sportplane and then put a 3.8 G prop on it. I'm sure others who want
their RV to be a cross-country rocket will enjoy the better aerodymanics
of Steve's cowl and longer prop. Rats! Oh well, at least I found out
before I spent the big bucks for an IO360.
Paul Lein
RV6A, fuselage stalled at the instrument panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacement Fuel Caps |
>RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric)
>At Sun N Fun I fell in love with the fuel caps that ACS is selling. I forgot
Not mundane at all Eric. There are probably several people besides me who
are interested in a reply.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Miceli <102630.1237(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: vari-prime source |
Vari-prime is mfg by Dupont. You can get it at any auto paint store. It's
primarily for auto applications. Most mail order catologs may be reluctant to
distribute it, because carriers consider it HazMat.
Hope that helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl not for sale after all |
>I just talked to Rick Bauerman, who is an applications engineer at
>Hartzell. He confirmed that the M2YR-1BF/7666A-2 prop is only rated for
>up to 3.8 Gs. Since that is the prop Steve Barnard builds his really neat
>IO360 cowl around, and I am not interested in fiberglass work enough to
>
>Paul Lein
Paul,
Good info. I've been contemplating this cowl as well, your research helps.
I wonder if Hartzell has a dimensionally equivalent prop rated to 6 g's?
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Running Wire |
Glenn Gordon wrote
>Can anyone suggest a "Blind" method of fastening an adell clamp to a
>floor rib? The clamps are to hold a wire bundle. Because the floor
>skins are inn place, I will not be able to get to the back side of the
>rib.
Glenn, try a rivnut. They are basically a threaded tube that compresses
into a hole and grips on the blind side. There are a couple of
different methods of installing. The simplest is ...you guessed it...a
rivnut putter inner tool. Its like a popo rivet gun. Quite expensive
but you may be able to borrow one. The second is by using a special
mandrell and an allen key...this may be available from A/c Spruce.
You may also consider not using an Adell clamp if the bundle is not too
big. There are some small plastic clips that can be pop rivetted and
then a plastic tie wrap threaded through to hold the wires. An
electrical shop should have these. They are light and very inexpensive.
Ken
ken.hitchmough(at)magic.ca
RV6A C-FGIZ
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
To date, all my aerobatic flying has been in aircraft equipped with
inverted systems. I am in the process of building an RV-6. I am
debating putting in the fuel injection and inverted systems. I probably
will not put them in because I am well aware that the RV-6 is NOT a
highly aerobatic aircraft.
My question is......
On an RV-6 without inverted systems, what kinds of maneuvers can be
flown safely?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Brownell" <kbrownell(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Jim;
Our Lycoming IO-360 runs well except during a go-around when power is
applied at zero or near zero manifold pressure. It coughs once or twice
before kicking in. Our initial thought is that the fuel injection system
is not adjusted properly. What are your thoughts. If you agree, could you
provide some advice about the correct adjustment to the fuel injection
system.
Ken
----------
> From: aol.com!JHeadric(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Horns
> Date: Tuesday, May 06, 1997 10:34 AM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Running Wire |
Try Rivnuts. Available from ACS, they are installed blind. Also if you're
securing wire, there are tywrap hold downs that have a 5/32 hole, and work
great with 5.32 pop rivets. Is you are securing wires near flight controls
use Adel clamps though. Tywraps may break over time and then the wires may
get into the controls.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
----------
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: Morristec
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Running Wire
> Date: Tuesday, May 06, 1997 2:07 PM
>
>
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com [163.179.3.6] by bbs.icdc.com with
smtp
> Received: from matronics.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with UUCP
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 10:59:01 -0700
> From: sybase.com!halk(at)matronics.com (Hal Kempthorne)
> Message-Id: <9705061759.AA10176(at)alliance.sybase.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Running Wire
> Content-Md5: B5tn7dNfpeuilg3VIp2vEw==
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I dismantled a high priced, obsolete computer that had wire bundles
anchored
> with the glue on pads. After ten years they were still stuck tight. I
think
> these are used in aircraft too.
>
> Then there are pop rivets and sheet metal screws.
>
>
> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
> halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
>
> > Can anyone suggest a "Blind" method of fastening an adell clamp to a
> > floor rib? The clamps are to hold a wire bundle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Does anyone know a telephone number for George and Becky Orndorff?
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
is there a reason why a $9.95 stainless steel Radio Shack AM/FM 31" antennae
can't be chopped down and work as a belly com antennae? They said it was 35
ohms but that had to do with the cable supplied and that I could use
different cable if needed. I don't really understand the differences
between the $20 and $135 options in the catalogs. kevin (I got a ride in
N7FJ this weekend-Frank Justice's 6A!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< Does anyone know a telephone number for George and Becky Orndorff? >>
Check the Yeller Pages!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
Kevin;
I'm like you, don't understand that ant. stuff. I read an article about a
coat hanger wire in the wing tip with a Radio Shack bulkhead holder. Tried
it and had trouble getting the wire to take solder to hold it on, tried a
piece of welding rod. It took solder pretty good. Has now been in place
for 3 years and all of my terrifying landings, can send and receive over 150
miles, haven't had any 'dead' spots. Total cost out board of the wire and
mount--about $0.15. The mount and wire from Radio Shack, about $7.50, it
was long enough ago I honestly don't remember, but was like me--cheap.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
The phone numbr fro George and Becki Orndorff is 817-439-3280....George
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Aerobatics |
Anything Positive not exceeding aircraft or pilot
limitations.
RVator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Aerobatics |
Glenn;
I don't know what you are use to, and I understand that everything is
relative, but I was not aware that the RV6 was not a very acrobatic
aircraft. I've done just about all in mine, and the wings haven't come off,
haven't even bent up yet! The way I understand it and remember is that Van
doesn't recommend it for competition acro in a box.
As for the last question, I wouldn't recommend you doing 'prolonged'
inverted flight unless you do have the flops etc. So, anything with zero or
negative g for a period of time that will cause either fuel or oil
starvation is not desirable unless you don't mind engine stoppage due to no
fuel or no lube. This then leaves you to do almost anything that keeps
positive g on the frame.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Fellow listers,
I need the collective knowledge of the list to help me solve an annoying
problem with my RV-6. Since the first flight 10 days ago I am getting a
very loud noise in the cabin that starts at 120 knots IAS. Since the
first flight I have installed the wheel pants and gear leg fairings. I
have taped over the intersection where the future cuffs will go. I have
taped over scat hose inlets one at a time. All other fairings are tight.
This noise is strictly airspeed related. It sounds like a bad bearing in
an electric motor or a reed vibrating. It is so loud that it breaks the
squelch on the intercom. The noise is deafening with headsets off. I
have gone to 170 kts and the noise stays with me. If I make sudden pitch
changes the noise will change note or go away momentarily until relative
wind resumes normal angle.
I do have 2 bent whip comm antennas on the belly. I am going to try to
stick a small bead or ball on the end to change the harmonics. They may
be vibrating.
Other than that I am stumped. I will entertain any other ideas.
Terry
C-GZRV flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Moen <Moen(at)mail.dec.com> |
| Subject: | Sources for Alumiprep and Alodine |
I've looked at all the regular paint stores for a local source of
Alumiprep and Alodine and only found a number of confused store
owners.
Any suggestions on good sources? (Trying to avoid the shipping and
hazardous materials charge of the mail-order places.)
Thanks,
Craig Moen
Maryland RV-8 #338
moen(at)mail.dec.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
/is there a reason why a $9.95 stainless steel Radio Shack AM/FM 31"
/antennae can't be chopped down and work as a belly com antennae?
/They said it was 35 ohms but that had to do with the cable supplied
/and that I could use different cable if needed. I don't really
/understand the differences between the $20 and $135 options in
/the catalogs. kevin (I got a ride in N7FJ this weekend-Frank
/Justice's 6A!)
I'll go to an RS store and look this critter over. Considerations
are: Mounting rigidity, whether or not you can subsititute the
am/fm radio very hi impedance cable for RG-58 cable, and of
course, shortening it to a more nominal 23". This anntenna
may be well suited to the task. Watch this space.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KOZINSKI GARY <kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
Kevin,
Any piece of wire of approximately 21" in length with do the job. If you
want to really be thrifty, go to a junk yard and pick up an old whip
antenna off a car. you might have to modify the connector and mount and
cut it to 21" but it will work fine. Put the same device in an aircraft
catalog and you can get your $130 price tag. Good luck.
Gary RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
(817) 439-3280
>
>Does anyone know a telephone number for George and Becky Orndorff?
>Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian.Carrigan(at)Sciatl.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Helpful hint # 316 |
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 17:20 -0500 (EST)
From: "cisco.com!cruble(at)matronics.com%PMDF"(at)INTER.corp.sciatl.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Helpful hint # 316
--Boundary (ID ZNH0IHtbbAThWDKWG6FeMA)
Regarding bending the fuel tank senders, I simply diagrammed the
problem on paper, found that I could solve for all the angles and
lengths using simple trigonometry, and came up with the required
bends. I bent them both following this scheme, and it worked well.
Sometimes, a little science can do wonders.
Brian J. Carrigan RV-6 partially completed.
______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Helpful hint # 316
Date: 5/5/97 5:20 PM
I used welding rod to mock-up the bends first. When everything worked
as planned, I bent the real thing to match the welding rod.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
>
> Here's a small trick I got from my tech counselor when he visited my
> project this weekend:
>
> I had bent the last 3/4" bend in my fuel sender float arm to wrong
> direction and knew bending it 180 degrees would break it. He said I
> could *twist* that last leg around 180 degrees so it pointed in the
> right direction, and the load/stress would be taken up by the length of
> the supporting arm. Worked great. I'm sure this is common sense to
> many, but I didn't know it and saved me buying a new float arm!
>
> Mitch Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME San Jose, CA
> Finishing fuel tanks, hanging flaps
>
>
--Boundary (ID ZNH0IHtbbAThWDKWG6FeMA)
id TAA21811; Mon May 5 19:49:06 1997
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 15:20:32 -0700
From: Chris Ruble <cisco.com!cruble(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Helpful hint # 316
--Boundary (ID ZNH0IHtbbAThWDKWG6FeMA)--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One year down the track... Reflections. |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>Jon Ross RV-80094 Skinning wings, hands hurt from all of those
>clecoes...
BTW, I haven't heard many people talk about this, but about the time I
was finishing my first wing (lots of cleco/uncleco operations) I
developed a SEVERE case of "Cleco elbow" (similar to the less manly form
of "Tennis elbow"). I tried using my left hand for most of the
cleco-ing, and my right elbow remained almost unusable for many months.
I ended up buying a pneumatic cleco tool (around $70 if memory serves)
and LOVED it. Once you learn to use it efficiently it's much faster, and
virtually no stress on the joints (yours, not the airplane's).
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for Alumiprep and Alodine |
Craig, You have to get the stuff at automotive paint suppliers. The
"etch" and "alodine" may be disquised with brand names. Example: PPG's
etch is labled "Aluminum Cleaner DX 533" there alodyne is labled
"Aluminum Conditioner DX 501"
Different manufacturers use different names but the etch contains acid
and the alodyne contains chromium compounds.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
Fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Aerobatics |
<< I probably
will not put them in because I am well aware that the RV-6 is NOT a
highly aerobatic aircraft.
My question is......
On an RV-6 without inverted systems, what kinds of maneuvers can be
flown safely? >>
Well, it may not be highly aerobatic, with the lower than spine-crushing
G-limit, but the dang thing IS highly manuverable! Don't worry- it's still
lots of fun. Just keep your manuvers positive, and you'll have no problems.
Keep barf bags handy for your queasy passengers.......
check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for Alumiprep and Alodine |
Craig,
You need to check with paint supply stores that carry professional
AUTOMOTIVE paints. House paint dealers wont be able to help you. You might
ask around your local body shops to find out where they buy their supplies.
Dupont or PPG products should be available in your local area.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
> I've looked at all the regular paint stores for a local source of
> Alumiprep and Alodine and only found a number of confused store
> owners.
>
> Any suggestions on good sources? (Trying to avoid the shipping and
> hazardous materials charge of the mail-order places.)
>
> Thanks,
>
>Craig Moen
>Maryland RV-8 #338
>moen(at)mail.dec.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
>
>is there a reason why a $9.95 stainless steel Radio Shack AM/FM 31" antennae
>can't be chopped down and work as a belly com antennae? They said it was 35
>ohms but that had to do with the cable supplied and that I could use
A cheaper, known to work option:
Van's comm antenna, with connector, for $7. An added bonus is its inside
the plane...no drag.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | aileron/flap fitting |
Hi all,
After a trial fit of my flap and aileron to my wing still in the jig, I
have noticed a problem. Sighting along the trailing edge of the wing there
is a noticeable bow spanwise. Drawing a taught string along the top of the
two surfaces at the start of the trailing edge bend confirms that there is a
gap between the string and the flap/aileron top skin of about 1/16 inch.
My initial thought was that I had somehow built either the flap or aileron
with a slight twist. I rechecked these and confirmed that they were both
straight. I then drew my string across the top surface of the wing about 1
inch behind the rear spar rivet line and of course found this was also
bowed. How I got to this point without seeing the bow during construction, I
dont know. The bow is not obvious when sighting along the top of the wing
when the control surfaces are not attached.
Is this bow going to cause a problem for me or is it something that I will
be able to trim out in flight, so that it is only an aesthetic problem? At
this point my top skins are rivetted on but bottom skins are still clecoed
in place. Can I or should I attempt to fix this by pulling the rear spar
straight when I rivet on my bottom skins?
I visually checked the 3 RV's at the local airport and 2 of them appeared
to have bows one way or the other when sighting down the wing trailing
edges. I was unable to talk to the owners to see if they noticed any
controllability problems due to this. It is also possible that these
airplanes had twisted or misaligned surfaces rather than a bow in the wing.
Thanks in advance for any responses,
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Yamokoski <wiyst1(at)vms.cis.pitt.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for Alumiprep and Alodine |
Dear Listers,
For the benefit of other newbies, I too could not find
comprehension locally, let alone the actual products. Ended up
getting both fron Wicks....$18/gal for each, plus $10 for Hazard, plus
$6.54 shipping.
Bill (revetting HS of a beautiful Glastar)
William Yamokoski
4608 Windbrook Dr.
Murrysville, PA 15668
wiyst1(at)vms.cis.pitt.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight noise |
Terrance Jantzi wrote:
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I need the collective knowledge of the list to help me solve an annoying
> problem with my RV-6. Since the first flight 10 days ago I am getting a
> very loud noise in the cabin that starts at 120 knots IAS.
>
> Other than that I am stumped. I will entertain any other ideas.
>
> Terry C-GZRV flying
Terry,
Do you have the tip up canopy? I had the same noise and the
problem was
air flowing under the forward canopy skin. I had used some spacers
between the canopy frame and the forward canopy skin. I sealed this area
with some non-corrosive RTV and the problem disappeared. You may not
have the same problem, but it will give you another area to examine.
Hope this helps.
--
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacement Fuel Caps |
Eric,
I'm sure many of us, given the past discussions about drill bits and
fuel caps, would be very interested in the replies to your question. I
looked in the 1996-1997 ACS Catalog after reading your message and found
several different kinds of fuel caps listed under the following headings
on p. 148: (a) bayonet fuel caps, (b) low profile fuel caps, (c) Shaw
Aero flush fuel caps, (d) ACS flush fuel caps, (e) Usher flush fuel
caps, (f) thermos style pressure fuel caps, (g) Aero fuel caps -
aluminum, and (h) Aero fuel caps - lightweight.
Which ones did you fall in love with?
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for Alumiprep and Alodine |
> Craig, You have to get the stuff at automotive paint suppliers. The
> "etch" and "alodine" may be disquised with brand names. Example: PPG's
> etch is labled "Aluminum Cleaner DX 533" there alodyne is labled
> "Aluminum Conditioner DX 501"
I've been going to Quality Paints, an auto paint store in Hillsboro
Oregon for all the PPG stuff. This place is a bit of a drive for me but
I had assumed I had to go to a specialty place to get these products.
So I was a bit surprised the other day to see a lot of the same stuff at
Baxter Auto Parts, which is just a basic chain auto parts store. They
also had Marhyde rattle cans. Might be worth a call to your local auto
parts store.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: flight noise |
A bold test pilot wrote:
> I need the collective knowledge of the list to help me solve an annoying
> problem with my RV-6. Since the first flight 10 days ago I am getting a
> very loud noise in the cabin that starts at 120 knots IAS.
Why don't you haul ass on up to Vne and see if it is still there? NO!! I'm
Kidding!
When I hear even small, unidentifiable noises, I slow down. Could it be the
tail is fluttering and about ready to snap off? That could be very annoying!
Maybe it is no big deal, just annoying. On the other hand...
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealing |
I searched the archive last night for ways people have sealed the access
plate and sending unit on the fuel tank. People have used cork or
rubber gaskets, fuel-lube or pro-seal.
I used fuel-lube on the stock cork gasket a few days ago during leak
testing and was thinking of changing to the pro-seal route for peace of
mind. I've ridden in a RV-6 with leaking fuel tanks and it make the
flight less than pleasant in the cockpit. So I'm hoping to get these
tanks sealed for good and never have to open them again. Okay, so
what's my point?
When I removed the sender and access plate from the fuel tank after leak
testing (the next day) I was suprised how "sticky" the fuel lube was and
I felt better about just using the cork gasket and fuel-lube.
Are there many people out there who have been flying RV's with this
setup and having no fuel tank leaks? I'll probably put a dab of
pro-seal in each screw hole anyway to make sure those don't leak.
Mitch Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME San Jose, CA
Leak testing fuel tanks before final installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Cleco Elbow? (Was: Reflections.) |
Ed Bundy wrote:
>
> BTW, I haven't heard many people talk about this, but about the time I
> was finishing my first wing (lots of cleco/uncleco operations) I
> developed a SEVERE case of "Cleco elbow" (similar to the less manly form
> of "Tennis elbow").
Hmmmm. I can't see why you would have ELBOW problems. I expected hand
problems, but I've built up quite strong hands as a guitarist; ditto the
wrists due to keyboard use for 13+ years. In fact, clecoeing (is it Ok
to use clecoe as a verb?) is often a restful time for me. I get most
fatigued when drilling the vertical skins, especially on the higher
reaches, due to holding up the drill motor. Ok, so I'm not a weight
lifter. Are you possibly having to twist the clecoes out of the holes
because you are not compressing them completely? That's the only elbow
stress I could come up with as I self-consciously removed and replaced
clecoes (and now Judi is laughing hysterically at me, thank you very
much). I'd be interested if others have experienced problems.
PatK - RV-6A
BTW, I'm waiting for my painters to return from their vacation, so I
tend to 'play' with my wing by disassembling it and reassembling it,
admiring the fit and looking for things to improve. Anyone else find
themselves doing this kind of thing, or do I need another hobby?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron/flap fitting |
>
>have noticed a problem. Sighting along the trailing edge of the wing there
>is a noticeable bow spanwise. Drawing a taught string along the top of the
>two surfaces at the start of the trailing edge bend confirms that there is a
>gap between the string and the flap/aileron top skin of about 1/16 inch.
My QB wing rear spar was bowed by 3/32" in both planes from the factory
(wing number one, I hope number two is better).
I made sure the root/tip ends of the flap and aileron, and were they meet in
the center, were even with the top and bottom skins following the contour of
the wing. A string along the T.E. of the finished flap/aileron installation
reveals the same error as rear spar.
The naked eye can't tell, the entire top skin fit to the flap/aileron looks
good...so I hope it does not affect the way she flies.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
| Subject: | aileron/flap fitting |
>>Reply to your message of 5/7/97 2:10 PM
>>=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills)
. I then drew my string across the top surface of the wing about 1
>>inch behind the rear spar rivet line and of course found this was also
>>bowed.=20
>>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>>
>>
>>End of message
Mike,
I have a pre-punched wing kit (RV4). They give you a neat template dwg of =
all the ribs. You use this for marking the flute locations. You just lay =
the rib on the dwg and line it up with the outline and then mark the flute =
locations. Neat, except you will find that the ribs vary quite a bit in bo=
th height and length. Since the
ribs are different lengths, I think that means that the rear spar will be w=
avy unless you do something about it. My ribs vary by as much as 1/4". I=
may shim them to a fixed length. I haven't decided yet.
Someone was asking about using tooling holes. It is not unusual at all for=
the tooling holes in my ribs to be off by 1/2 diameter compared to the dwg=
. I think that if your bow is only 1/16", then I would leave it alone u=
nless it's real easy to fix. =20
I have always been impressed by those silky smooth wing skins you so often =
see at OSH. Now, I'm starting to appreciate just how difficult it is to ma=
ke them that way.
John =20
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> /is there a reason why a $9.95 stainless steel Radio Shack AM/FM 31"
> /antennae can't be chopped down and work as a belly com antennae?
> /They said it was 35 ohms but that had to do with the cable supplied
> I'll go to an RS store and look this critter over. Considerations
> are: Mounting rigidity, whether or not you can subsititute the
> am/fm radio very hi impedance cable for RG-58 cable, and of
> course, shortening it to a more nominal 23". This anntenna
> may be well suited to the task. Watch this space.
Another related question. What setup are people using for an AM/FM
antenna? I certainly don't want a 35" whip antenna on the outside of my
airframe, but considering the far more suitable operating environment, I
would think you could get away with a much shorter antenna. Ideas?
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleco Elbow? (Was: Reflections.) |
Installing or removing a hundred or so Clecoes at a session is setting
yourself up for RMI (repetitive motion injury). I avoided it by buying the
U.S. Industrial Tool & Supply Co. model US902 Pneumatic Cleco Tool, $83 in
'95 catalog (1-800-521-4800). Several builders I have met have had painful
RMI from clecoeing.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: Patrick Kelley <mail.ic.net!patk(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Cleco Elbow? (Was: Reflections.)
> Date: Wednesday, May 07, 1997 1:55 PM
>
>
> Ed Bundy wrote:
> >
> > BTW, I haven't heard many people talk about this, but about the time I
> > was finishing my first wing (lots of cleco/uncleco operations) I
> > developed a SEVERE case of "Cleco elbow" (similar to the less manly
form
> > of "Tennis elbow").
>
> Hmmmm. I can't see why you would have ELBOW problems. I expected hand
> problems, but I've built up quite strong hands as a guitarist; ditto the
> wrists due to keyboard use for 13+ years. In fact, clecoeing (is it Ok
> to use clecoe as a verb?) is often a restful time for me. I get most
> fatigued when drilling the vertical skins, especially on the higher
> reaches, due to holding up the drill motor. Ok, so I'm not a weight
> lifter. Are you possibly having to twist the clecoes out of the holes
> because you are not compressing them completely? That's the only elbow
> stress I could come up with as I self-consciously removed and replaced
> clecoes (and now Judi is laughing hysterically at me, thank you very
> much). I'd be interested if others have experienced problems.
>
> PatK - RV-6A
>
> BTW, I'm waiting for my painters to return from their vacation, so I
> tend to 'play' with my wing by disassembling it and reassembling it,
> admiring the fit and looking for things to improve. Anyone else find
> themselves doing this kind of thing, or do I need another hobby?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Circuit breaker size |
Fellow Listers:
A quick electrical question. As I work on my RV-4, I am also restoring a
Citabria. I am adding Mitchell electric oil temp and pressure gauge.
Mitchell states these each pull .8 amps. I would prefer to protect both
these gauges with one CB or in-line fuse. Is there not a rule of thumb to
determine CB size for a particular load? I am assuming a 2 amp breaker
would be adequate for this application (total of 1.6 amp load).
As always thanks,
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
| Subject: | RE>Re- RV-List- upholstery |
RE>Re: RV-List: upholstery 5/7/97
817-656-1415
--------------------------------------
Date: 5/7/97 9:08 AM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@AZBCSM1
(817) 439-3280
>
>Does anyone know a telephone number for George and Becky Orndorff?
>Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: One year down the track... Reflections. |
z>
>
>>Jon Ross RV-80094 Skinning wings, hands hurt from all of those clecoes...
>
>BTW, I haven't heard many people talk about this, but about the time I
>was finishing my first wing (lots of cleco/uncleco operations) I
>developed a SEVERE case of "Cleco elbow" (similar to the less manly form
>of "Tennis elbow"). I tried using my left hand for most of the
>cleco-ing, and my right elbow remained almost unusable for many months.
I've had tendonitis-like pains in my forearm from clecoing, and in the back
of my hand, but not elbow problems. But then, I haven't been working on
wing skins yet.
Incidentally, I have had the same problem when kayaking; the cocking
forward/backward movement of the right wrist at each paddle-stroke caused
tendonitis in the right forearm. Treatment was basically rest, and keeping
the arm supported and elevated (wrist at about chest level). As I recall,
recovery took a week or so. The movement is I think similar to clecoing.
Also, I've modified my cleco pliers a little; I ground a little out of the
jaws, so that clecos go in and out easier... I can easily shake a cleco
out, which allows for one-handed un-clecoing. Also, I added a light spring
stretched from the top jaw to the opposite handle, so that the pliers open
by themselves. I believe that this makes clecoing much easier.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | vari-prime or ppg? |
Has anyone used PPG's DP-40?I've had three custom car builders highly
recommend it for priming aluminum.I'm trying to decide between variprime or
????? any suggestions?
chris marion
RV-6 eppenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: aileron/flap fitting |
>Drawing a taught string along the top of the
>two surfaces at the start of the trailing edge bend confirms that there is a
>gap between the string and the flap/aileron top skin of about 1/16 inch.
I believe that this ability to see when something is out of alignment by an eight
of an inch in twelve feet (1%!) is a skill one
gains from building things.
After building just one house, I can see when a window is not square or a corner
is not plumb. At first, I thought I was just imaging it but measuring things
that I would see, sometimes the error would be as little as 1%!
My wife and I made ourselves a pledge to never show people where we made little
errors. We just enjoyed the compliments in silence.
Maybe when your wings sit out in the sun, they will straighten out.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit breaker size |
>Is there not a rule of thumb to determine CB size for a particular load?
I think the circuit break's size is based on the wire size attached to it.
In your house, your kitchen is probably on a 20 amp circuit but your can opener
maybe only draws 1 amp. It could burn to a crisp, burn down the house! All
without ever tripping the breaker.
I've done a lot of house and car wiring but just learned this while building an
experimental airplane, a fantastic learning experience!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley) |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for Alumiprep and Alodine |
Craig,
Give FinishMaster, Inc. a call they sell the PPG line, (703)848-2383,
the store I deal with is located in Vienna, VA. but they have a
location near you.
Aluminum Cleaner DX 533
Aluminum Conditioner DX 501 (alodyne)
Curtis Hinkley
rv-8 #80015
You wrote:
>
>
> I've looked at all the regular paint stores for a local source of
> Alumiprep and Alodine and only found a number of confused store
> owners.
>
> Any suggestions on good sources? (Trying to avoid the shipping and
> hazardous materials charge of the mail-order places.)
>
> Thanks,
>
>Craig Moen
>Maryland RV-8 #338
>moen(at)mail.dec.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Ciolino" <jbc1(at)ziplink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for Alumiprep and Alodine |
Craig,
PPG sells an alumiprep product by the name Dx533 Aluminiuim Cleaner and an
alodine product called DX 501 Aluminium conditioner. Try a PPG auto pait
outlet.
>
> I've looked at all the regular paint stores for a local source of
> Alumiprep and Alodine and only found a number of confused store
> owners.
>
> Any suggestions on good sources? (Trying to avoid the shipping and
> hazardous materials charge of the mail-order places.)
>
> Thanks,
>
>Craig Moen
>Maryland RV-8 #338
>moen(at)mail.dec.com
>
>
John Ciolino
jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
RV-8 Working on Empannage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
If you want I can post the complete article for you. It was written by Greg
Rainwater of the Puget Sound RVators.
John Ammeter
>
>Kevin;
>I'm like you, don't understand that ant. stuff. I read an article about a
>coat hanger wire in the wing tip with a Radio Shack bulkhead holder. Tried
>it and had trouble getting the wire to take solder to hold it on, tried a
>piece of welding rod. It took solder pretty good. Has now been in place
>for 3 years and all of my terrifying landings, can send and receive over 150
>miles, haven't had any 'dead' spots. Total cost out board of the wire and
>mount--about $0.15. The mount and wire from Radio Shack, about $7.50, it
>was long enough ago I honestly don't remember, but was like me--cheap.
>John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
>Stephenville TX
>johnd@our-town.com
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | aileron/flap fitting |
John,
I may not have been clear in describing the bow in my wing. The difference
in length rib - to - rib would result in a chordwise bow, but I wouldnt be
overly concerned about this. If you picture the airplane flying straight and
level, then the bow in my wing would be in a direction perpendicular to the
ground. The effect of this would be a continual change in incidence across
the span of the wing. In thinking about this in this way, I believe the
error is probably insignificant as it is a change of 1/16" over the chord of
the wing, or less than .2 degrees of incidence.
It is however, somewhat discouraging to sight down the trailing edge and be
able to see this deviation.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
My ribs vary by as much as 1/4". I=
> may shim them to a fixed length. I haven't decided yet.
>
>Someone was asking about using tooling holes. It is not unusual at all for=
> the tooling holes in my ribs to be off by 1/2 diameter compared to the dwg=
>. I think that if your bow is only 1/16", then I would leave it alone u=
>nless it's real easy to fix. =20
>
>
>John =20
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Advice needed on cutting skin for camera hole |
Hi all,
I want to put a camera mount and hole behind the pax seat. I cut a 4 inch round
hole in the seat floor, between ribs. The hole for the image to get thru the
skin will probably only be 3 in by 5 in. It will have to have a frame to hold
a piece of glass in place.
Any ideas about strength etc.?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Gandy <sa_gandy(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vari-prime or ppg? |
aol.com!BigCfly001(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used PPG's DP-40?I've had three custom car builders highly
> recommend it for priming aluminum.I'm trying to decide between variprime or
> ????? any suggestions?
>
> chris marion
> RV-6 eppenage
Chris
I am new to the list, but I have used DP-40 on my Aeronca. It is
expensive and it is recommended that you apply your color coat within 72
hours or it becomes very hard and the paint won't stick very well.
Steve Gandy
RV-4 Horz. Stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealing |
> When I removed the sender and access plate from the fuel tank after leak
>testing (the next day) I was suprised how "sticky" the fuel lube was and
>I felt better about just using the cork gasket and fuel-lube.
> Are there many people out there who have been flying RV's with this
>setup and having no fuel tank leaks? I'll probably put a dab of
>pro-seal in each screw hole anyway to make sure those don't leak.
>Mitch Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME San Jose, CA
Mitch,
I've got 350 hours on my RV with no tank leaks. I used fuel lube on a
cork gasket. I also put fuel lube on each screw for the sender and access
plate. Proseal will work but I worried about dis-assembly should there be a
problem.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on cutting skin for camera hole |
z>
>I want to put a camera mount and hole behind the pax seat. I cut a 4 inch
>round hole in the seat floor, between ribs. The hole for the image to get
>thru the skin will probably only be 3 in by 5 in. It will have to have a
>frame to hold a piece of glass in place.
Do you need such a large hole? At one point, I experimented with putting
sellotape on filters to make nice fuzzy halo effects (for romantic wedding
photos). I was amazed at how small a circle I needed; less than an inch in
diameter.
If you have a large-format camera you want to mount, I guess you'd need a
larger hole. Or is the idea that you look round the camera to get a general
view of the ground? If so, it's going to be a tad difficult to look through
that hole whilst flying, and probably even more difficult for the passenger
to see through it.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AM/FM antenna |
<< What setup are people using for an AM/FM antenna? I certainly don't want
a
35" whip antenna on the outside of my airframe, but considering the far more
suitable operating environment, I would think you could get away with a much
shorter antenna. Ideas? >>
Ed-
Jim Weir of RST told me once that just about anything will work better than
you need it to for AM/FM reception in the air. You can run RG-58 to the
outboard rib terminating with a crimp type BNC female bulkhead connector.
Use any old 30"-31" length of wire draped into the fiberglass wing tip
connected to the center of a BNC male connector. Then, a little soft music
and... mate them.
As an alternative without the sex (or the soft music), just run RG-58 out to
the wing tip and strip the last 30" or so of the jacket and shield off
(leaving just the insulated center conductor). You might cover the cut end
to eliminate the possibility that it might short out against any exposed
grounded metal.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
>
>If you want I can post the complete article for you. It was written by Greg
>Rainwater of the Puget Sound RVators.
>>I'm like you, don't understand that ant. stuff. I read an article about a
>>coat hanger wire in the wing tip with a Radio Shack bulkhead holder. Tried
>>it and had trouble getting the wire to take solder to hold it on, tried a
>>piece of welding rod. It took solder pretty good.
I have mine wired for the wing tips, but I haven't been able to get the
antenna wire from a old Radio Shack antenna I have to hold with solder. What
type welding rod did you use or what else would solder in?
Denny H. RV-6
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Well the RMI kits arrived today! I'm scratching my head, but here goes
something (I would have nothing in place of something, but it looks like
something). I'll be one proud dude if I whip this one.
Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron/flap fitting |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Mike,
Only 1/16" ??? Well I guess you won't be able to go
supersonic now.... (ha ha). Don't worry about it. Your
plane should trim out just fine. After a few hours of delightful
flying, you won't even think of it again.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
Wills) writes:
>
>Hi all,
> After a trial fit of my flap and aileron to my wing still in the jig, I
>have noticed a problem. Sighting along the trailing edge of the wing
there
>is a noticeable bow spanwise. Drawing a taught string along the top of
the
>two surfaces at the start of the trailing edge bend confirms that there
is a
>gap between the string and the flap/aileron top skin of about 1/16 inch.
>
> ***** SNIP ********
>
>Thanks in advance for any responses,
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 (wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight noise |
> > very loud noise in the cabin that starts at 120 knots IAS.
> >
>
> > Other than that I am stumped. I will entertain any other ideas.
> >
> > Terry C-GZRV flying
>
> Terry,
> Do you have the tip up canopy? I had the same noise and the
> problem was
> air flowing under the forward canopy skin. I had used some spacers
> between the canopy frame and the forward canopy skin. I sealed this area
> with some non-corrosive RTV and the problem disappeared. You may not
> have the same problem, but it will give you another area to examine.
> Hope this helps.
>
> --
> Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying
Problem solved!!!
After Todd's suggestion, I took a closer look at the forward canopy
skin(tip up canopy). Sure enough, there was about 8 inches of skin that
was sitting slightly proud. There was the reed I was looking for. I
sealed my test pilot in with some electricians tape and sent him off.
He came back grinning. Thanks Todd.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | pitot tube location |
There has been some discussion on the list about pitot tube location and
accuracy.
I have some figures about my own installation. I have an Cessna 172
heated tube that I mounted just forward of the inspection panel on the
left wing. I used stream line tubing to place it at the same distance
that the plans call for with the bent tube.
If I would do it again I would move it further away from the tie down
area. I use that anchor area to jack the airplane and it is really too
close to the jack.
I have the airspeed indicator from Vans and don't have any leaks in the
pitot/static system.
I used the method mentioned here in the past to determine TAS with 3
headings and ground speeds from a GPS. All testing was done at 8000 feet
pressure altitude @ 28F. Using a E6B I found CAS. All speeds in knots.
80 IAS -- 80 CAS -- 90.5 TAS ** 2200rpm@13"
100 IAS -- 99.5 CAS -- 112 TAS ** 2300rpm@14"
120 IAS -- 122 CAS -- 136 TAS ** 2300rpm(at)20.5"
140 IAS -- 142 CAS -- 158 TAS ** 2300rpm@21"
Terry
C-GZRV flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
>antenna wire from a old Radio Shack antenna I have to hold with solder. What
>type welding rod did you use or what else would solder in?
>
>Denny H. RV-6
Please excuse my ignorance on such stuff, but it was a none coated(no flux
on it), sort of brown looking metal, not quite as large diam. as the coat
hanger, not brass. It was some a guy had given to me to bend ends in it to
make hangers for painted stuff. I don't know why the coat hanger did not
take solder, maybe I didn't get it hot enough. If the Radio Shack ant is
stainless steel, that keeps it from taking normal solder, doesn't it? I
guess just about any diam. wire that is stiff enough to 'keep it up' in the
wing tip would do it, as long as it will keep contact with the bulkhead
mount. Mine is curved outboard of the fitting, so that the wire is
compressed about one inch at the tip when the fiberglass tip is installed.
In my shade tree planing, this would wedge the wire into the inside of the
corner where the top of the tip folds into the bottom of the tip, there by
keeping the wire from vibrating and bouncing up and down, straining the
solder joint at the bulkhead fitting. Hows that for MIT engineering?
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: RMI kit arrived |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
> ==> I'll be one proud dude if I whip this one.
>
> Denny H. RV-6 Fuselage
> Lebanon, OR
Don't sweat it. Just pay particular attention to the soldering,
just like the manual tells you to.
I have built two micro encoders (one for a friend) and one
monitor with no problems. They are really good,complete kits.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
I'll admit it .
30 years as an electrician but five years of retirement.
First it was the wrist joint, but then it was the wrist and elbow joints.
At first I thought I was going soft but then I thought about going to the
doctor. This business hurts, but if I get away from it a couple of days
it goes away. I expect that by the time I finish the project I will be in
great shape in that area. Then I may build a B-25
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
<< tried a
piece of welding rod. It took solder pretty good. >>
John,
What kind of welding rod did you use? Material and diameter.
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
Breakers protect wires. it's that simple.
N.E.C. say's size the breaker to 80% of the load the wire is designed to
carry. If you want appliance protection, install a fuse or internal
overload device at the appliance sized to 125% of rated load,
<>in which case it gets a little more complicated.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
P.S. Check with Bob Nicholls on wire sizing. His dazzling formulae on
this can save you space, weight @ bucks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
>I am adding Mitchell electric oil temp and pressure gauge.
>Mitchell states these each pull .8 amps. I would prefer
>to protect both these gauges with one CB or in-line fuse.
>Is there not a rule of thumb to determine CB size for a
>particular load? I am assuming a 2 amp breaker would be
>adequate for this application (total of 1.6 amp load).
There's a popular mis-conception floating around suggesting
that breakers protect gizmos while in fact, a breaker or
fuse has the task of protecting only the wire which
branches off the distribution bus. The smallest practical
wire for airframe installations is 22AWG. Per the wire
table I published earlier this week, a 22AWG is good for
5amps in free air . . . (OOPS, just checked the table and
found I'd left out a couple of values. Here's the table
with the two missing numbers)
AWG Ohms/ 35C Rise 10C Rise Max Path
No. KFeet Amps Amps for .7 volt Loss
at 35C rating.
2 .156 100 54 45 Ft
4 .249 72 40 39 Ft
6 .395 54 30 32 Ft
8 .628 40 20 27 Ft
10 .999 30 15 23 Ft
12 1.59 20 12.5 22 Ft
14 2.53 15 10 18 Ft
16 4.01 12.5 7 14 Ft
18 6.39 10 5 11 Ft
20 10.2 7 4 10 Ft
22 16.1 5 3 8 Ft
So our 22AWG wire is good for 3 amps burried in
a wire bundle. In the suituation where we
intend to drive 1.6 amps of hardware, 22AWG
is adequate in any installation scenario. Further,
since the CONTINUOUS load is not over 3 amps,
we could burry the wire in a bundle and still
PROTECT it with a 5 amp breaker since any expected
overload would most likely be a hard fault. There's
no need to de-rate the wire for protection purposes
because the continuous duty load is so small.
In answer to the writer's question, any breaker
from 2 to 5 amps is okay in this situation. I'm
a little suspicious of the .8 amp figures for
power to operate those instruments; here's why.
.8 amps times 14 volts is over 11 watts. Since there's
no ENERGY coming out of this system other that to wiggle
some pointers on an insturment, ALL of this power comes
off as heat. Which gizmos in each system disipate all
or any part of this much energy? Certainly not the
instruments . . . anything more than about 2-3 watts
inside a plastic case would COOK the innards. How
about the transducers? Hmmmm . . . I suppose they
COULD stand that kind of dissipation, they're designed
to function in a warm environment. But when the
rest of the world routinely produces sensors that
operate with tens of milliamps, I'm having trouble
visualizing how the thing would be build to consume
10 times that amount of power.
I'd recommend rechecking the literature -or- contacting
the manufacturer -or- hooking them up on the bench
with a power supply and see what the real numbers
are. I SUSPECT they are considerably less.
This doesn't change the breaker sizing task but it
does afford more confidence in the system's ability
to survive . . . 11 watts is alot of snort to handle
in a task that's been seeing smaller and smaller
power requirements through the evolution of new
designs.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vari-prime or ppg? |
aol.com!BigCfly001(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used PPG's DP-40?I've had three custom car builders highly
> recommend it for priming aluminum.I'm trying to decide between variprime or
> ????? any suggestions?
>
> chris marion
> RV-6 eppenageI changed from spray can zinc chromate to DP-40. It provides a
much
harder finish and seems to spray well. The paint expert at the
automotive paint supplier didn't have much trouble figuring out that I
was an amateur and steered me away from variprime toward DP-40. It is my
impression that the DP-40 is high quality and less toxic than variprime.
I don't believe it's a self etching primer, so scuff or etch. I bought
a $30.00 8oz. amateur touch-up gun that sprays it very nicely. I beleive
that going this way has an added benefit. I'm getting to be a better
painter in preparation for the big job ahead.
Brian Eckstein
6A fuel tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron/flap fitting |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
> >Drawing a taught string along the top of the
> >two surfaces at the start of the trailing edge bend confirms that there is a
> >gap between the string and the flap/aileron top skin of about 1/16 inch.
>
> I believe that this ability to see when something is out of alignment by an
eight of an inch in twelve feet (1%!) is a skill one
> gains from building things.
>
> After building just one house, I can see when a window is not square or a corner
> is not plumb. At first, I thought I was just imaging it but measuring things
> that I would see, sometimes the error would be as little as 1%!
>
> My wife and I made ourselves a pledge to never show people where we made little
> errors. We just enjoyed the compliments in silence.
>
> Maybe when your wings sit out in the sun, they will straighten out.
>
> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Back to the fuselage - wings later.
> halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
I'd be willing to bet that when the wings are in their normal installed
position that they will sag more than !/8" !!!
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaker Sizing |
Regarding breaker sizing,
In Bob Nuckolls' book he talks about using the actual voltage rating of the
device in question to determine the allowable voltage drop. Is this procedure
not acceptable? This procedure would allow a much larger voltage drop than .7
volts. For example a system might be putting out 14.6 volts while a lamp was
rated for 13 volts. This would seem to allow a 1.6 volt drop.
What am I missing?
Stan Blanton
RV-6
75472.372(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | vari-prime or ppg? |
Chris,
I've used DP-50/DP-402 thoughout my project so far, and like the results. =
I've decided to use PPG products throughout the finish of my plane. In a =
past life I was a custom painter of cars, motorcycles, and such, and =
always liked the quality and consistancy of the Dizler line of paints.
The DP-50 is a light gray, and the DP-402 is the fast catalyst that =
doesn't require the 1/2 hr dwell time, so you can shoot right away. I =
also reduce it 50%, so it's acting as a sealer. I also use their DX-533 =
Alum Cleaner (etch) just before I apply the primer (opps, I said the "P" =
word). I even used the DX-533 to etch the inside of my tank skins, ribs, =
and tank stiffeners after a light sanding with 320. I can't think of =
anything to get those parts squeeky clean so the proseal sticks good. No =
leaks, first try.
You can get a lot of good information about this product by getting the =
brochure "Product Information on DP Primers" Form p-122.
Just my opinion, and you get what you pay for,
Laird in So Cal RV-6 wingtip lights
owens(at)aerovironment.com
P.S. Any listers going to Chino this weekend?
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: BigCfly001(at)aol.com
Has anyone used PPG's DP-40?I've had three custom car builders highly
recommend it for priming aluminum.I'm trying to decide between variprime =
or
????? any suggestions?
chris marion
RV-6 eppenage
------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------
by mars.aerovironment.com (Netscape Mail Server v2.02) with =
SMTP
id AAA461 for ;
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
From: aol.com!BigCfly001(at)matronics.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 19:51:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RV-List: vari-prime or ppg?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Anybody know if there is a Boone Iowa flyin this year. Or any others in
the midwest?
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot tube location |
In a message from Terrance Jantzi on 5/8/97, final paragraph:
"I used the method mentioned here in the past to determine TAS with 3
headings and ground speeds from a GPS. ..."
Just to reinforce something that has been mentioned here before, the
method should use Ground Tracks from the GPS, not headings. After the
first track is selected, the second should be 90 degrees to the right
or left of it, and the third leg completed as a reciprocal track of the
first leg.
(A further discussion of this was provided by Charles H. Fink on
3/13/96 in the "True Airspeed using GPS" thread)
The more wind there is, the greater the error if Headings are used
instead of Track.
Hawkeye
RV-3, 0.03% complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mheaps(at)direct.ca (mike heaps) |
Has any one used or considered a three blade constant speed on a IO 360 ?
I'am wondering if thats a good choice on my RV 8 and if there is enought
postive reasons to warrent the expence. Does anyone know size, makes,
model, manufacture,price, or any other useful info. ?
Thank you in advance
Mike Heaps #80280 starting wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Vapor Lock ... In search of assistance |
I am posting this for a friend who recently purchased an RV6A but does not
have access to the RV-list .... yet.
>>>> I seek the wisdom of the RV-List in solving a dangerous (in my
opinion) problem. <<<<<
Problem: Loss of fuel pressure, engine sputter and HIGH pucker factor on
takeoff . The plane was airborne and he (+ another friend passenger) landed
safely. He had flown it earlier and stopped for a few minutes, so it was
still "warm" under the cowl.
Setup:
- RV6A with Lycoming 0-320 (150 HP) engine, carbureted ... nothing too
"unique" under the cowl.
- Fuel in use: AUTOGAS.
- Fuel from the selector is routed to the gascolator and from there to the
carburetor and to a primer (via a tee). These lines are wrapped in
insulating "hose". At the carburetor, there is a small return line to
inside the cockpit **just after** the output of the fuel selector. There is
a "restrainer" in the orafice of about .040" feeding this small copper
return line.
Theories: Vapor lock due to:
1. Orafice was too small (seemed clogged, so we opened it to .040") and
therefore there was virtually no return.
2. Exposed (small) copper return line in REALLY a heat exchanger and
instantly vaporizes any fuel that is in it unless the plane is flying, so
maybe it should be insulated.
3. The small line under the cowl should be LARGE so it can hold
(relatively) lots of fuel so as to never allow vaporization (its hard to
boil the ocean).
4. The small line under the cowl should be as small and short as possible
because you want to boil as little fuel as possible.
5. The small line inside the cockpit should be LARGE to facilitate
expansion and quicker cooling.
6. The small line inside the cockpit should be longer and coiled to
facilitate greater cooling.
....
As you can see, theories abound. Before we do something and attempt to fly
this machine again, it really would be nice to take advantage of the
collected wisdom here.
Sooooooo..
Has anyone out there SOLVED a similar problem *without* removal of the
gascolator and switching to AVGAS??
I know there has been much discussion about whether or not to have
gascolators. For this round of discussion, let's assume that my friend
really wants to keep the gascolator for the reasons stated in the list by
those that are happy with them.
Any assistance here would be appreciated as I thought I was about to
witness two friends have an unfortunate landing in trees and railroad
tracks ... not a happy thing. Also, one of these years, I hope to have a
VERY similar bird in the air.
James
James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net
RV6AQ ... still working on wings (with Piper blade Pitot-Static system)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | vari-prime or ppg? |
>Laird in So Cal RV-6 wingtip lights
>owens(at)aerovironment.com
>
>P.S. Any listers going to Chino this weekend?
I'll be at Chino saturday. Unfortunately I will be driving. Should be a
pretty decent fly-in; Van is supposed to be in attendance and Burt Rutan is
also scheduled to appear with his Boomerang.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: flight noise |
>
>
>A bold test pilot wrote:
>
>> I need the collective knowledge of the list to help me solve an annoying
>> problem with my RV-6. Since the first flight 10 days ago I am getting a
>> very loud noise in the cabin that starts at 120 knots IAS.
Hi Hal,
Just heard a similar story about a RV-6 with a pop up canopy equipped
airplane. Seems the noise started at about 160 mph. The problem took a
long time to solve. Evidently the builder had attached a fiberglass strip
over the canopy joint at the rear window junction. The fiberglass had
worked loose where it was bonded to the canopy. It was basically
fluttering in flight when he got to 160 mph. It was rebonded and the
problem went away. Check any parts on or near your canopy. Also check to
make sure your root fairings with the rubber trim are tight against your
fuselage. You may be getting what we call in the airline industry as
"fillet buzz". The metal wing root fairings will start to vibrate on the
sides of the fuselage. Well good luck. I suggest not going too fast until
you solve the problem.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I got the wings on, ready to drill the rear spar attach points. (RV-4)
With the rear spar on wing lined up perfectly with spar carry through
(vertically) it came out to 1 deg incidence, as close as I can tell. If
I move the wing up approximately 1/4 inch to meet the 1/2 deg. +
incidence, the 5/16 hole I will drill will not have the required 5/8"
edge clearance. My question is this: If I leave it centered and drill
it so there is no question about the edge tolerance, can I adjust the
extra 1/2 deg. of positive incidence out with the tail? If I leave it 1
deg. positive, like it is, how will that affect the flying
characteristics? Is it something that will need to be adjusted? Thanks
for any help, I am going to drill them tomorrow. Also, measuring from
wingtip to common point on fuselage, one wing is 3/8" farther than the
other. I don't know what that equates to in degrees of sweep, but does
one of you experts out there know if this is something to be concerned
about? Boy, an 1/8" out, here or there really adds up when you need to
measure for something like this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 BAC Holy cowl |
>
>I just talked to Rick Bauerman, who is an applications engineer at
>Hartzell. He confirmed that the M2YR-1BF/7666A-2 prop is only rated for
>up to 3.8 Gs. Since that is the prop Steve Barnard builds his really neat
>IO360 cowl around, and I am not interested in fiberglass work enough to
>build my own cowl for the IO360, I'm afraid I'll have to stick to the
>parallel valve 360 and the C2YK prop Van's supplies. While I don't intend
>to do extensive aerobatics, it doesn't seem sensible to me to build a 6 G
>sportplane and then put a 3.8 G prop on it. I'm sure others who want
>their RV to be a cross-country rocket will enjoy the better aerodymanics
>of Steve's cowl and longer prop. Rats! Oh well, at least I found out
>before I spent the big bucks for an IO360.
>
>Paul Lein
>RV6A, fuselage stalled at the instrument panel.
>
I just got off the phone with another applications engineer at Hartzell
propeller and confirmed what you have said about the M2YR hub. But it
seems we don't have all the information. Any extended hub propeller
Hartzell supplies with the exception of the HC-C2YK is limited to 3.8 g's.
Hartzell says even if you add 1 inch extension to a propeller it goes from
a 6 g propeller to a 3.8 g propeller no matter what the extension is all
the way up to 6 inch extensions. The propeller withstanding these loads is
not the issue, it will not fail, the failure will occur in the crankshaft
flange at or near the forward thrust bearing. The 200 hp engine in this
area has twice the wall thickness that the 180 hp engine. So here lies the
confusion. I would feel better about doing aerobatics in my 2 9/16"
extended hub prop and a 200 hp engine than a 180 with half the wall
thickness and a standard hub. It appears Hartzell has a blanket policy
that they've established yet to my engineering background seems a little
contradictory. I understand the gyroscopic loads somewhat on the engine.
Maybe someone else at Hartzell can help clarify this confusing policy they
have. It's possible it's just that they have'nt tested other combinations
at this particular time.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
>
>
>I have mine wired for the wing tips, but I haven't been able to get the
>antenna wire from a old Radio Shack antenna I have to hold with solder. What
>type welding rod did you use or what else would solder in?
>
It's likely that the antenna you're working with is Stainless Steel. I'd
recommend you go the route of using a piece of welding rod; especially the
kind that has a copper coating. It should be dry inside the wingtip and
unlikely to corrode.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
With all this talk about alternate antennas, I felt I just had to
contribute some thoughts that might save someone's transceiver output
section.
There is no reason that the aviation antennas should cost what they do.
However, if you are looking for affordable alternatives, you might take a
trip to your local HAM radio shop. There is an amateur band known as 2
meters that is very close to our band. It operates on 140 to 148 mhz. Most
of the antennas intended for two meter use will easily tune down to the
125mhz average that we require. Some have adjustable shafts while others
have a tuneable coil in the base. If you are building or installing
anything other than an off the shelf antenna, I would buy or borrow an
SWR/RF meter. Again, one intented for 2 meters will work fine on aviation
band. Concerning lengths... they are simply estimates. Once the coax is
run, secured and connected at both ends, the standing wave ratio should be
checked. If needed, the antenna can be trimmed to acheive the lowest ratio.
If you trim too much and the antenna can not be re-fabricated (if it's
glassed into a wing tip for example), a load will have to be added to bring
the ratio back down-start with a single turn of wire around a piece of 1/2"
wooden dowel, connect in series. Use heat shrink to protect the load after
the number of turns have been established, mount away from metal and as
close to the antenna as possible. A ground plane must exist or be
simulated. Follow your antenna plans closely or your antenna will have
unwanted directional qualities.
What will I use? Two lengths of 1/2" wide copper braid, laminated into the
wing tips.
Jerry Prado, RV6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL" |
This new cowling recently developed is sleeker, sexier, has better curves
and slips thru the air with ease. It even has more efficient round inlets
for cooling and induction air for those hot days. This cowling is state of
the art in the airplane world. That's why we enjoy custom built aircraft
so much, because we can put what we want on the airplane. This cowling
utilizes seperate CNC machined aluminum laminar flow inlet rings for
consistent flow. To date this is the best way to get airflow in the
cowling. Modern day jet liners utilize the same theory. If this perks
your interest-read on.
The following is a detailed description of requirements for utilizing the
B.A.C. "Holy cowl" which enables you to install 160,180 and 200 hp engines
in an RV-6 or RV-6A.
160 hp engines can utilize a wood propeller with a 4 3/4" spool extension
or Van's HC-F2YL-1F/7663-4 constant speed propeller.
180 hp engines can utilize a wood propeller with a 4 3/4" spool extension or
a Lancair 360 constant speed propeller #HC-F2YR-1F/F7068-2
200 hp engines must be of the counterweighted versions ala: IO-360
A1B6,A3B6D,C1E6,
C1C6 etc. Propeller requirements are a Hartzell constant speed propeller
#HC-M2YR-1BF/7666A-2 extended hub propeller or you can utilize a wooden
propeller with a 4 3/4" spool extension.
If you have not viewed our website please do so because it will give you
more information and pictures to. If you have remaining questions please
call for specific applications for compatabilty on your particular
airplane. Call before any big expensive decisions are made.
Life's short-build fast
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
The following information is about different wing tip designs, what works
and what is available for RV series airplanes. I'm not sure how much has
been discussed in this area to date, but I think now is the time to go over
it again because I have been personally involved in making the curved up
wing tips which many have seen in Sport Aviation April issue. It's begins
on page 50,"Computational Fluid Dynamics". I am presently flying with these
prototype wing tips and here are the real results.
It increased speeds by 2 mph. It increased directional stability in
turbulence considerably. Anyone know what it's like to ride in the back
seat of a V-tail Bonanza on a rough day. The RV has a tail wag or more
appropriately a dutch roll and yaw when the thermals abound, especially in
Texas and Arizona on a hot afternoon. These particular curved up tips solve
the wag and make it very stable in that arena. This added stability does
not affect roll rate. The airplane simply bounces up and down but does not
twist and turn anymore.
There has been another wing tip come out of Bakersfield,CA. Not sure who
is selling them exactly. I ran the flight test on John Harmons "Rocket"
because he had a set installed. We ran 2 tests with different wingtips
under the same conditions as we could get. Now keep in mind the Rocket
wing span has been reduced to 21 ft. 10 in and the top speed it is capable
of is much higher than a standard RV. Any additional wing span on the
Rocket will help top speed at higher altitudes. The test was run at 8500
ft. density altitude. During lunch after the flight I crunched all the
numbers. With many distractions due to the fact that there were probably
10 people wanting an answer on the wing tips and how well they did, I came
up with approximately 7.5 mph increase in speed. I later went home and
redid all the calculations and confirmed without a doubt 6 mph increase.
After several more wing tips of this type we're installed on an RV-6 and a
RV-4 and flight testing airplanes against each other we all came to the
conclusion without a doubt on the above airplanes we obtained 2 mph
increase. The difference compared to the "Rocket" is additional span would
help it more, especially when the air gets thin.
It doesn't appear the Bakersfield tips add much for stability, but it does
help speed slightly. They are available.
The wing tips that we're designed using the computer that are on my
airplane are not available for certain reasons. Knowing what we've learned
from a stock wing tip to the curved wing tip to the rounded tip is, the
best tip for the RV has yet to arrive. It will probably be a combination of
curved up tip with slight rounded leading edge with a slight increase in
span. Not on the drawing board yet.
Life's short-build fast
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for Alumiprep and Alodine |
Craig:
> I've looked at all the regular paint stores for a local source of
> Alumiprep and Alodine and only found a number of confused store
> owners.
Alumiprep = PPG DX533 = DuPont 225S
Alodyne = PPG DX503 = DuPont 226S
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
installing electrical and avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360 |
<< Has any one used or considered a three blade constant speed on a IO 360 ?
I'am wondering if thats a good choice on my RV 8 and if there is enought
postive reasons to warrent the expence. Does anyone know size, makes,
model, manufacture,price, or any other useful info. ? >>
Mike-
A buddy of mine building a Lancair is using the parallel valve version of the
IO-360 and has a Hartzell 3-blade with strangely shaped tips (rounded leading
corner, squared trailing corner). Apparently other Lancairs have used this
scheme. Try contacting Hartzell.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Chet and All,
Dont know whats going on in Boone this year, but its a good time to mention
the Rocky Mountain Regional flyin at Longmont Co. (vance brand 2v2). There
are usually a large number of RV's in attendance. Last year Tom Green and Ken
Scott brought the RV-8 down and gave many rides. The Rocky Mountain RVators
sponsored a hamburger and hotdog feed in my hangar and this year we plan on
doing the same. Any one within the group is welcome. The dates are june 28
and 29.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Breaker Sizing |
<< In Bob Nuckolls' book he talks about using the actual voltage rating of
the
device in question to determine the allowable voltage drop. Is this
procedure
not acceptable? This procedure would allow a much larger voltage drop than
.7
volts. For example a system might be putting out 14.6 volts while a lamp was
rated for 13 volts. This would seem to allow a 1.6 volt drop. >>
The procedure I recommend is as follows.
Using a good digital voltmeter (or the manufacturer's specifications if
available), determine what the appliance draws sustained worst case under
load. If the appliance is a transmitter, measure the draw while
transmitting. If the appliance is a lamp, measure the draw after it has
stabilized at temperature. If it is a motor, put a sustained typical load on
it.
Then determine the required wire gauge based on wire point to point length
assuming a half to a volt drop from the supply to the appliance by using the
curves shown in AC 43.13-1A (I think). I got my copy out of a buddy's
Glasair Builder's Manual.
You must calculate for the voltage drop and the conductor heat rise and
select the wire gauge that meets both criteria. If you absolutely cannot
otherwise locate this info on your own, e-mail me direct and I will get a
copy to you.
Select the breaker based on 135-165% (or the next available size up) of the
continuous maximum current for the appliance.
Examples:
1A sustained max draw=2A breaker
2A sustained max draw=3A breaker
2.5A sustained max draw=4A breaker
3A sustained max draw=5A breaker
3.5A sustained max draw=5A breaker
4A sustained max draw=7.5A breaker
5A sustained max draw=7.5A breaker
6A sustained max draw=10A breaker
7A sustained max draw=10A breaker
You get the idea.
You do not want to chose too low or you will experience nuisance trips. We
are really trying to protect the wiring, not the appliance.
Happy Building,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV "Wing tips" |
----------
> From: barnardaircraft <barnardaircraft.com!steve(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV "Wing tips"
> Date: Thursday, May 08, 1997 7:12 PM
>
(barnardaircraft)
>
Steve: Thanks for sharing the top-end data with the list. When you get a
chance, could you comment on the change in stall speed?
Thanks.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig>
>
> There has been another wing tip come out of Bakersfield,CA. Not sure who
> is selling them exactly. I ran the flight test on John Harmons "Rocket"
> because he had a set installed. We ran 2 tests with different wingtips
> under the same conditions as we could get. Now keep in mind the Rocket
> wing span has been reduced to 21 ft. 10 in and the top speed it is
capable
> of is much higher than a standard RV. Any additional wing span on the
> Rocket will help top speed at higher altitudes. The test was run at 8500
> ft. density altitude. During lunch after the flight I crunched all the
> numbers. With many distractions due to the fact that there were probably
> 10 people wanting an answer on the wing tips and how well they did, I
came
> up with approximately 7.5 mph increase in speed. I later went home and
> redid all the calculations and confirmed without a doubt 6 mph increase.
>
>
> Life's short-build fast
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Steve Barnard
> Barnard Aircraft Components
> RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
> steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
> http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daniel Potter <dpotter(at)QNET.COM> |
I need to thank Steve Barnard for reviewing the Bakersfield wing tips in
his posting today.
If anyone would like additional information about the wing tips that are
on John Harmons "Rocket" they can contact Oliver Brennan (805)872-0847,
George Kabonic (805)399-7580 or myself Dan Potter (805)723-5443.
Dan Potter
dpotter(at)qnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cleco Elbow? (Was: Reflections.) |
> I'd be interested if others have experienced problems.
If we're all going to add our builder's aches and pains to the archives, it's
going to be lots of dull reading... kind of like Grumpy Old Men - the Sequel.
FWIW, my cleco injury was (is still) a paresthesia (numb area) of the hand
from a radial nerve RMI.. At least, that's what my friendly orthopedic
surgeon told me this week. Hard to argue with a guy who wants to take you up
in his Stearman... Any other complainers out there with tingling hands from
the ol' cleco pliers? Wanna hear about the time I stood up under the end of
my wing spar while it was in the jig and parted my scalp three inches worth?
(Reply off list ; -)
Bill Boyd
Studying the baffling parts and instructions in the BAF-320 kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
Ever wondered ????????
How to get an RV6A to the airport ?
How you can fit a built RV6A in a two car garage ?
If 3 kids could build an RV6A with some help from their dad ?
What an RV builder looks like right after his first flight ?
Point your browser to: http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
I would like any comments you may have on this web site, I am teaching
my 16 year old how to build a web site. This is his first attempt. Thanks
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360 |
I am curious about the different props used on the IO-360s. I read where a
Lancair demonstrator lost a prop up in Wisconsin destroying the plane and
killing the pilot. Are they using "extended" hubs withor without the
counterweighted engines?
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vapor Lock ... In search of assistance |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
James,
With the vapor return line feeding back into the fuel source "just
after" the fuel selector, aren't you just pumping the vaporized fuel
right back into the fuel source? Why not dump it back into a tank
and eliminate any possibility of vapors in the source line (due to
returning
vapors).......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>I am posting this for a friend who recently purchased an RV6A but does
not
>have access to the RV-list .... yet.
>
>>>>> I seek the wisdom of the RV-List in solving a dangerous (in my
>opinion) problem. <<<<<
>
>Problem: Loss of fuel pressure, engine sputter and HIGH pucker factor on
>takeoff . The plane was airborne and he (+ another friend passenger)
anded
>safely. He had flown it earlier and stopped for a few minutes, so it was
>still "warm" under the cowl.
>
>Setup:
>- RV6A with Lycoming 0-320 (150 HP) engine, carbureted ... nothing
too"unique" under the cowl.
>- Fuel in use: AUTOGAS.
>- Fuel from the selector is routed to the gascolator and from there to
the
>carburetor and to a primer (via a tee). These lines are wrapped in
>insulating "hose". At the carburetor, there is a small return line to
>inside the cockpit **just after** the output of the fuel selector. There
is
>a "restrainer" in the orafice of about .040" feeding this small copper
>return line.
**** SNIP ******
>
>James
>
>James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net
>RV6AQ ... still working on wings (with Piper blade Pitot-Static
>system)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
<< In Bob Nuckolls' book he talks about using the actual voltage rating of the
<< device in question to determine the allowable voltage drop. Is this procedure
<< not acceptable? This procedure would allow a much larger voltage drop than .7
<< volts. For example a system might be putting out 14.6 volts while a lamp was
<< rated for 13 volts. This would seem to allow a 1.6 volt drop.
The issue I was speaking to there was a special case wherein I cited examples
of landing lights characterized for operation at 13.0 volts. Obviously, for
a system that runs nominally 13.8 to 14.2 volts, the lamp would be quite happy
with a drop of .8 to 1.2 volts in the system's wiring. This figure falls
nicely
into the 5% allowable system losses figure I cited in my earlier posts. The
voltage RATINGS of various devices are NOT requirments but simply notification
to the system designer as to how the device was characterized . . . so many
lumins over so much pattern at 13.0 volts. Since 13.0 was the design point,
this tells a designer what to expect in the way of performance under nominal
system drops.
/Using a good digital voltmeter (or the manufacturer's specifications
/if available), determine what the appliance draws sustained worst
/case under load. If the appliance is a transmitter, measure the draw
/while transmitting. If the appliance is a lamp, measure the draw after
/it has stabilized at temperature. If it is a motor, put a sustained typical
/load on it.
Good advice . .
/Then determine the required wire gauge based on wire point to point length
/assuming a half to a volt drop from the supply to the appliance by using
/the curves shown in AC 43.13-1A (I think). I got my copy out of a buddy's
/Glasair Builder's Manual.
Also wire table I've published in the past few days. . .
/Select the breaker based on 135-165% (or the next available size up) of
/the continuous maximum current for the appliance.
Actually, breakers are selected according to wire size but maybe that's
splitting hairs. Picking the breaker according to applicance load is okay
too, especially if you've upsized a wire for voltage drop considerations
and left the breaker sized for the load, the trend is to protect bigger
wires with smaller breakers which is not a hazazrd.
/You do not want to chose too low or you will experience nuisance
/trips. We are really trying to protect the wiring, not the appliance.
Exactly!!!! Tens of thousands of Cessnas have 60 amp breakers protecting
their 60 amp alternator b-lead feeds . . . this breaker is DESIGNED to
nuisance trip. I complained about it when I worked there 30 years ago
but nobody cared. Now, that breaker causes more unhappy electrical surprises
for pilots than any other breaker installation in history. When in doubt,
upsize the wire and breaker a step. It never hurts to make it a tad bigger!
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV "Wing tips" |
>
>
>
>The following information is about different wing tip designs, what works
>and what is available for RV series airplanes. I'm not sure how much has
>been discussed in this area to date, but I think now is the time to go over
>it again because I have been personally involved in making the curved up
>wing tips which many have seen in Sport Aviation April issue. It's begins
>on page 50,"Computational Fluid Dynamics". I am presently flying with these
>prototype wing tips and here are the real results.
>
>It increased speeds by 2 mph. It increased directional stability in
>turbulence considerably. Anyone know what it's like to ride in the back
>seat of a V-tail Bonanza on a rough day. The RV has a tail wag or more
>appropriately a dutch roll and yaw when the thermals abound, especially in
>Texas and Arizona on a hot afternoon. These particular curved up tips solve
>the wag and make it very stable in that arena. This added stability does
>not affect roll rate. The airplane simply bounces up and down but does not
>twist and turn anymore.
>
>There has been another wing tip come out of Bakersfield,CA. Not sure who
>is selling them exactly. I ran the flight test on John Harmons "Rocket"
>because he had a set installed. We ran 2 tests with different wingtips
>under the same conditions as we could get. Now keep in mind the Rocket
>wing span has been reduced to 21 ft. 10 in and the top speed it is capable
>of is much higher than a standard RV. Any additional wing span on the
>Rocket will help top speed at higher altitudes. The test was run at 8500
>ft. density altitude. During lunch after the flight I crunched all the
>numbers. With many distractions due to the fact that there were probably
>10 people wanting an answer on the wing tips and how well they did, I came
>up with approximately 7.5 mph increase in speed. I later went home and
>redid all the calculations and confirmed without a doubt 6 mph increase.
>
>After several more wing tips of this type we're installed on an RV-6 and a
>RV-4 and flight testing airplanes against each other we all came to the
>conclusion without a doubt on the above airplanes we obtained 2 mph
>increase. The difference compared to the "Rocket" is additional span would
>help it more, especially when the air gets thin.
>
>It doesn't appear the Bakersfield tips add much for stability, but it does
>help speed slightly. They are available.
>
>The wing tips that we're designed using the computer that are on my
>airplane are not available for certain reasons. Knowing what we've learned
>from a stock wing tip to the curved wing tip to the rounded tip is, the
>best tip for the RV has yet to arrive. It will probably be a combination of
>curved up tip with slight rounded leading edge with a slight increase in
>span. Not on the drawing board yet.
>
>Life's short-build fast
>
>Respectfully,
>
>Steve Barnard
>Barnard Aircraft Components
>RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
>steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
>http://www.barnardaircraft.com
>
>
PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECIEVE ANY
MORE INFORMATION.
THANK YOU
LISA GOLDSMITH
DIGITAL PRINTING SERVICES
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360 |
>
>
><< Has any one used or considered a three blade constant speed on a IO 360 ?
> I'am wondering if thats a good choice on my RV 8 and if there is enought
> postive reasons to warrent the expence. Does anyone know size, makes,
> model, manufacture,price, or any other useful info. ? >>
>
>Mike-
>
>A buddy of mine building a Lancair is using the parallel valve version of the
>IO-360 and has a Hartzell 3-blade with strangely shaped tips (rounded leading
>corner, squared trailing corner). Apparently other Lancairs have used this
>scheme. Try contacting Hartzell.
>
>-GV
>
PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECIEVE ANY
THIS INFORMATION.
THANKS
LISA GOLDSMITH
DIGITAL PRINTING SERVICES
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 BAC Holy cowl |
>
SNIP
>Any extended hub propeller Hartzell supplies with the exception of the
HC-C2YK >is limited to 3.8 g's.
>Hartzell says even if you add 1 inch extension to a propeller it goes from
>a 6 g propeller to a 3.8 g propeller no matter what the extension is all
>the way up to 6 inch extensions. The propeller withstanding these loads is
>not the issue, it will not fail, the failure will occur in the crankshaft
>flange at or near the forward thrust bearing. The 200 hp engine in this
>area has twice the wall thickness that the 180 hp engine. So here lies the
>confusion. I would feel better about doing aerobatics in my 2 9/16"
>extended hub prop and a 200 hp engine than a 180 with half the wall
>thickness and a standard hub.
>
>Steve Barnard
Steve:
The HC-C2YK is a standard hub, not an extended hub.
And did you know the HC-M2YR-1BF/7666A-2 is approved for use on the
IO-360-A1B6,-A1B6D,-A1D6,-C1D6 With A max/min lenght of 76/73 and an rpm
restriction to avoid continuous use between 2100 and 2350rpm.
Now I know since it is on an experimental you can do anything you want, so
you can cut the blades down, but you take the risk of vibration problems.
And.....for those that may consider 3 bladed props, check the price for an
outright purchase. $$$$$$$$$$ And if you really want to go into sticker
shock check out an MT. I think it was over $13,000 4 years ago.
Makes the O-360 HC-C2YK on my 4 for look CHEAP. Man does it cost money to
go fast!!!!
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV "Wing tips" |
>
>
>
>The following information is about different wing tip designs, what works
>and what is available for RV series airplanes. I'm not sure how much has
>been discussed in this area to date, but I think now is the time to go over
>it again because I have been personally involved in making the curved up
>wing tips which many have seen in Sport Aviation April issue. It's begins
>on page 50,"Computational Fluid Dynamics". I am presently flying with these
>prototype wing tips and here are the real results.
>
>It increased speeds by 2 mph. It increased directional stability in
>turbulence considerably. Anyone know what it's like to ride in the back
>seat of a V-tail Bonanza on a rough day. The RV has a tail wag or more
>appropriately a dutch roll and yaw when the thermals abound, especially in
>Texas and Arizona on a hot afternoon. These particular curved up tips solve
>the wag and make it very stable in that arena. This added stability does
>not affect roll rate. The airplane simply bounces up and down but does not
>twist and turn anymore.
>
>There has been another wing tip come out of Bakersfield,CA. Not sure who
>is selling them exactly. I ran the flight test on John Harmons "Rocket"
>because he had a set installed. We ran 2 tests with different wingtips
>under the same conditions as we could get. Now keep in mind the Rocket
>wing span has been reduced to 21 ft. 10 in and the top speed it is capable
>of is much higher than a standard RV. Any additional wing span on the
>Rocket will help top speed at higher altitudes. The test was run at 8500
>ft. density altitude. During lunch after the flight I crunched all the
>numbers. With many distractions due to the fact that there were probably
>10 people wanting an answer on the wing tips and how well they did, I came
>up with approximately 7.5 mph increase in speed. I later went home and
>redid all the calculations and confirmed without a doubt 6 mph increase.
>
>After several more wing tips of this type we're installed on an RV-6 and a
>RV-4 and flight testing airplanes against each other we all came to the
>conclusion without a doubt on the above airplanes we obtained 2 mph
>increase. The difference compared to the "Rocket" is additional span would
>help it more, especially when the air gets thin.
>
>It doesn't appear the Bakersfield tips add much for stability, but it does
>help speed slightly. They are available.
>
>The wing tips that we're designed using the computer that are on my
>airplane are not available for certain reasons. Knowing what we've learned
>from a stock wing tip to the curved wing tip to the rounded tip is, the
>best tip for the RV has yet to arrive. It will probably be a combination of
>curved up tip with slight rounded leading edge with a slight increase in
>span. Not on the drawing board yet.
>
>Life's short-build fast
>
>Respectfully,
>
>Steve Barnard
>Barnard Aircraft Components
>RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
>steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
>http://www.barnardaircraft.com
PLEASE REMOVE OUR E-MAIL ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. NO ONE HERE REQUESTED
THIS INFORMATION.
THANKS FOR YOUR COOPERATION
LISA GOLDSMITH
DIGITAL PRINTING SERVICES
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360 |
PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECEIVE ANY
MORE OF THESE RECORDS.
THANKS
LISA GOLDSMITH
DIGITAL PRINTING SERVICES
>
>I am curious about the different props used on the IO-360s. I read where a
>Lancair demonstrator lost a prop up in Wisconsin destroying the plane and
>killing the pilot. Are they using "extended" hubs withor without the
>counterweighted engines?
>
>Shelby in Nashville.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
>
>Chet and All,
> Dont know whats going on in Boone this year, but its a good time to mention
>the Rocky Mountain Regional flyin at Longmont Co. (vance brand 2v2). There
>are usually a large number of RV's in attendance. Last year Tom Green and Ken
>Scott brought the RV-8 down and gave many rides. The Rocky Mountain RVators
>sponsored a hamburger and hotdog feed in my hangar and this year we plan on
>doing the same. Any one within the group is welcome. The dates are june 28
>and 29.
> Ryan
>
>PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DID NOT REQUEST IT AND DO
NOT WANT TO RECIEVE IT ANYMORE.
THANKS
LISA GOLDSMITH
DIGITAL PRINTING SERVICES
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaker Sizing |
PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECIVE ANY
MORE OF THESE MESSAGES HERE.
THANKS
LISA GOLDSMITH
DIGITAL PRINTING SERVICES
>
>
><< In Bob Nuckolls' book he talks about using the actual voltage rating of
>the
> device in question to determine the allowable voltage drop. Is this
>procedure
> not acceptable? This procedure would allow a much larger voltage drop than
>.7
> volts. For example a system might be putting out 14.6 volts while a lamp was
> rated for 13 volts. This would seem to allow a 1.6 volt drop. >>
>
>The procedure I recommend is as follows.
>
>Using a good digital voltmeter (or the manufacturer's specifications if
>available), determine what the appliance draws sustained worst case under
>load. If the appliance is a transmitter, measure the draw while
>transmitting. If the appliance is a lamp, measure the draw after it has
>stabilized at temperature. If it is a motor, put a sustained typical load on
>it.
>
>Then determine the required wire gauge based on wire point to point length
>assuming a half to a volt drop from the supply to the appliance by using the
>curves shown in AC 43.13-1A (I think). I got my copy out of a buddy's
>Glasair Builder's Manual.
>
>You must calculate for the voltage drop and the conductor heat rise and
>select the wire gauge that meets both criteria. If you absolutely cannot
>otherwise locate this info on your own, e-mail me direct and I will get a
>copy to you.
>
>Select the breaker based on 135-165% (or the next available size up) of the
>continuous maximum current for the appliance.
>
>Examples:
>1A sustained max draw=2A breaker
>2A sustained max draw=3A breaker
>2.5A sustained max draw=4A breaker
>3A sustained max draw=5A breaker
>3.5A sustained max draw=5A breaker
>4A sustained max draw=7.5A breaker
>5A sustained max draw=7.5A breaker
>6A sustained max draw=10A breaker
>7A sustained max draw=10A breaker
>
>You get the idea.
>
>You do not want to chose too low or you will experience nuisance trips. We
>are really trying to protect the wiring, not the appliance.
>
>Happy Building,
>-GV
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleco Elbow? (Was: Reflections.) |
PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR LIST. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECEIVE ANY
MORE OF THESE MESSAGES
THANKS
LISA GOLDSMITH
>
>
>> I'd be interested if others have experienced problems.
>
>If we're all going to add our builder's aches and pains to the archives, it's
>going to be lots of dull reading... kind of like Grumpy Old Men - the Sequel.
>
>FWIW, my cleco injury was (is still) a paresthesia (numb area) of the hand
>from a radial nerve RMI.. At least, that's what my friendly orthopedic
>surgeon told me this week. Hard to argue with a guy who wants to take you up
>in his Stearman... Any other complainers out there with tingling hands from
>the ol' cleco pliers? Wanna hear about the time I stood up under the end of
>my wing spar while it was in the jig and parted my scalp three inches worth?
> (Reply off list ; -)
>
>Bill Boyd
>Studying the baffling parts and instructions in the BAF-320 kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaker Sizing |
PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR LIST. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECIEVE ANY
MORE OF THESE MESSAGES SENT TO OUR ADDRESS.
THANKS
LISA GOLDSMITH
DIGITAL PRINTING SERVICES
>
>
><< In Bob Nuckolls' book he talks about using the actual voltage rating of
>the
> device in question to determine the allowable voltage drop. Is this
>procedure
> not acceptable? This procedure would allow a much larger voltage drop than
>.7
> volts. For example a system might be putting out 14.6 volts while a lamp was
> rated for 13 volts. This would seem to allow a 1.6 volt drop. >>
>
>The procedure I recommend is as follows.
>
>Using a good digital voltmeter (or the manufacturer's specifications if
>available), determine what the appliance draws sustained worst case under
>load. If the appliance is a transmitter, measure the draw while
>transmitting. If the appliance is a lamp, measure the draw after it has
>stabilized at temperature. If it is a motor, put a sustained typical load on
>it.
>
>Then determine the required wire gauge based on wire point to point length
>assuming a half to a volt drop from the supply to the appliance by using the
>curves shown in AC 43.13-1A (I think). I got my copy out of a buddy's
>Glasair Builder's Manual.
>
>You must calculate for the voltage drop and the conductor heat rise and
>select the wire gauge that meets both criteria. If you absolutely cannot
>otherwise locate this info on your own, e-mail me direct and I will get a
>copy to you.
>
>Select the breaker based on 135-165% (or the next available size up) of the
>continuous maximum current for the appliance.
>
>Examples:
>1A sustained max draw=2A breaker
>2A sustained max draw=3A breaker
>2.5A sustained max draw=4A breaker
>3A sustained max draw=5A breaker
>3.5A sustained max draw=5A breaker
>4A sustained max draw=7.5A breaker
>5A sustained max draw=7.5A breaker
>6A sustained max draw=10A breaker
>7A sustained max draw=10A breaker
>
>You get the idea.
>
>You do not want to chose too low or you will experience nuisance trips. We
>are really trying to protect the wiring, not the appliance.
>
>Happy Building,
>-GV
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
>
>I'll be at Chino saturday. Unfortunately I will be driving. Should be a
>
I'll be there too. We on the list must come up with a way to identify
fellow listers at shows...at sun'n'fun this year I probably walked by a few
but unfortunately did not meet any.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Murl Hicks <dps(at)unicom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vapor Lock ... In search of assistance |
PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR LIST. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECIVE ANY MORE
OF THESE MESSAGES.
THANKS
LISA GOLDSMITH
DIGITAL PRINTING SERVICES
>
>James,
>
> With the vapor return line feeding back into the fuel source "just
>after" the fuel selector, aren't you just pumping the vaporized fuel
>right back into the fuel source? Why not dump it back into a tank
>and eliminate any possibility of vapors in the source line (due to
>returning
>vapors).......
>
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
>
> writes:
>>
>>
>>I am posting this for a friend who recently purchased an RV6A but does
>not
>>have access to the RV-list .... yet.
>>
>>>>>> I seek the wisdom of the RV-List in solving a dangerous (in my
>>opinion) problem. <<<<<
>>
>>Problem: Loss of fuel pressure, engine sputter and HIGH pucker factor on
>>takeoff . The plane was airborne and he (+ another friend passenger)
>anded
>>safely. He had flown it earlier and stopped for a few minutes, so it was
>>still "warm" under the cowl.
>>
>>Setup:
>>- RV6A with Lycoming 0-320 (150 HP) engine, carbureted ... nothing
>too"unique" under the cowl.
>>- Fuel in use: AUTOGAS.
>>- Fuel from the selector is routed to the gascolator and from there to
>the
>>carburetor and to a primer (via a tee). These lines are wrapped in
>>insulating "hose". At the carburetor, there is a small return line to
>>inside the cockpit **just after** the output of the fuel selector. There
>is
>>a "restrainer" in the orafice of about .040" feeding this small copper
>>return line.
>
> **** SNIP ******
>>
>>James
>>
>>James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net
>>RV6AQ ... still working on wings (with Piper blade Pitot-Static
>>system)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL" |
>
> ...big expensive decisions are made.
What's the cost?
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
Scott wrote:
>
>
> Ever wondered ????????
>
> How to get an RV6A to the airport ?
>
> How you can fit a built RV6A in a two car garage ?
>
> If 3 kids could build an RV6A with some help from their dad ?
>
> What an RV builder looks like right after his first flight ?
>
> Point your browser to: http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
>
> I would like any comments you may have on this web site, I am teaching
> my 16 year old how to build a web site. This is his first attempt. Thanks
>
> Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Tried it twice, nothing there
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
I get a blank screen when I call up this address???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
Scott wrote:
>
>
> Ever wondered ????????
>
> How to get an RV6A to the airport ?
>
> How you can fit a built RV6A in a two car garage ?
>
> If 3 kids could build an RV6A with some help from their dad ?
>
> What an RV builder looks like right after his first flight ?
>
> Point your browser to: http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
>
> I would like any comments you may have on this web site, I am teaching
> my 16 year old how to build a web site. This is his first attempt. Thanks
>
> Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
I get a blank screen at this address????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL" |
barnardaircraft wrote:
>
>
> This new cowling recently developed is sleeker, sexier, has better curves
Can the finish kit be ordered without the factory cowl, if you cowling
is to be used? How does the price compare to the factory piece?
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360 |
>
>I am curious about the different props used on the IO-360s. I read where a
>Lancair demonstrator lost a prop up in Wisconsin destroying the plane and
>killing the pilot. Are they using "extended" hubs withor without the
>counterweighted engines?
>
>Shelby in Nashville.
>
Hi Shelby,
The current engines that Lancair 360's use are O-360 A1A 180 hp engines,
the same ones utilized in RV aircraft. These are non counterweighted
engines. Yes some people we're and are still using extended hub
propellers. Lance Neibauer of Lancair fame got together with Hartzell
after the incident and requested some vibration and stress tests be run
with the 0-360 engines and the earlier version of the "F" hub propeller.
Before the test this combination had never been tested or approved for
certified aircraft. The results were conclusive. The propeller was 200 %
over standard stress levels so Hartzell redesigned the propeller to it's
present configuration which is an approved combination for the 0-360 non
counterweighted engine.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: RV "Wing tips" |
>>
>Steve: Thanks for sharing the top-end data with the list. When you get a
>chance, could you comment on the change in stall speed?
We did not check for any changes in stall speed on the Rocket when we ran
the tests so I can't help there. With the curved up wing tips I saw no
difference in indicated stall speed. May we could get some conclusive
information out of Bakersfield. Any takers out there.
Clean airplanes are more efficient, easier on your wallet at the gas pump.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
>
> Has any one used or considered a three blade constant speed on a IO 360 ?
>I'am wondering if thats a good choice on my RV 8 and if there is enought
>postive reasons to warrent the expence. Does anyone know size, makes,
> model, manufacture,price, or any other useful info. ?
> Mike Heaps #80280 starting wings
Hi Mike,
The propeller you can use is a Hartzell HC-C3YR-1RF/F7282 3 blade propeller.
I talked to Paul Lowen of Lake Aero Styling (707) 263-0412 Ca. He quoted a
price of around $6100 dollars outright. Note: the propeller fits a Mooney.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
> Has any one used or considered a three blade constant speed on a IO 360 ?
>I'am wondering if thats a good choice on my RV 8 and if there is enought
>postive reasons to warrent the expence. Does anyone know size, makes,
> model, manufacture,price, or any other useful info. ?
You might check with MT in Germany. I know they make one that will work.
Lancair used to offer them in their options catalog. (They may still, I
have not seen one for several years).
Super prop, much lighter than the others.
If you ever walk the acro line at any airshow, MT is the only prop you will
see.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360 |
Murl Hicks wrote:
>
>
> PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECEIVE ANY
> MORE OF THESE RECORDS.
>
> THANKS
>
> LISA GOLDSMITH
Who-the-hell are Murl Hicks and Lisa Goldsmith?
This is the third similar message today.
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: com antennas |
Jerry Prado taught me a bit about antennas - he even knows about SWR. Now I at
least know what the letters stand for and that it is related mysteriously to the
length of the antenna and the frequency being picked up.
He says that he will use "Two lengths of 1/2" wide copper braid...".
Come on Jerry, tell us what lengths! And details like their relative placement.
We do all use the same frequencies so won't we all want the same length
antennas?
Is it possible that antennas are like wine - that there is usually a difference
in quality between the cheapest and the more expensive? It is true that an
inexperienced wine consumer may not be able to taste that difference.
I do love these things that puncture the balloons of the people who are ripping
off us junior birdmen!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Unwrapping the horizontal stab - this isn't so hard!
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on cutting skin for camera hole |
RE CAMERA HOLE CUTOUT
I tried this idea on a Continental powered C-172 (two exhaust pipes) many
years ago and learned the following, we had to do a severe sideslip to get
the engine exhaust away from the camera port.
Before cutting any holes have a good look at where the hole is in relation
to the engine exhaust stream. Heat from the exhaust stream will distort the
light waves and render a improperly placed camera port useless.
I am guessing that the exhaust flow from exhaust pipe(s) normally expands
about twenty/thirty degrees as it moves rearward and rotates slightly with
the propwash, it may pass under the passenger seat area.
When I get to my wings I plan to look into the feasability of a camera port
in the outboard wing bay and/or a quick change wingtip that will accomodate
my motor drive Nikon.
Has anyone out there mounted a motor drive camera on a RV?
George McNutt, HS - 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.com> |
| Subject: | New RV6A Website - FIXED To Work With Netscape Navigator Too |
Website now works with Netscape Navigator or Microsoft Internet Explorer !
Fixed Today ...
Ever wondered ????????
How to get an RV6A to the airport ?
How you can fit a built RV6A in a two car garage ?
If 3 kids could build an RV6A with some help from their dad ?
What an RV builder looks like right after his first flight ?
Point your browser to: http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
I would like any comments you may have on this web site, I am teaching
my 16 year old how to build a web site. He needs to improve some of his
spelling and ? This is his first attempt. Thanks
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | E-615PP platenut attach question |
Hi all,
I'd like to finish up the E-615PP trim reinforcement plate and rivet it
to the left elevator skin before bending the trailing edge. It is not
obvious to me how to attach the platenuts. It looks like I should
dimple the platenut rivet holes to accept the dimples in the E-615PP,
but I don't recall having this procedure discussed on the list. Also,
If I dimple the E-616PP cover plate with dies for #6 screws, and
likewise dimple the screw holes in the E-615PP, then the nutplates
won't fit flush. Please excuse if this has been discussed before.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bright <john(at)catlover.com> |
Robert Acker wrote:
>
>
> >
> >I'll be at Chino saturday. Unfortunately I will be driving. Should be a
> >
>
> I'll be there too. We on the list must come up with a way to identify
> fellow listers at shows...at sun'n'fun this year I probably walked by a few
> but unfortunately did not meet any.
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
How about some sort of hat or shirt emblem of an RV with a list (tilt)
to it.
John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john(at)catlover.com, -6 empennage on
hand, tool shopping
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
<33733E3F.2DFC(at)e2.empirenet.com>
| From: | Bill Esther 503-627-5217 <billiam(at)mdhost.cse.tek.com> |
> >
>
> Scott wrote:
> >
> >
> > Ever wondered ????????
> >
> > How to get an RV6A to the airport ?
> >
> > How you can fit a built RV6A in a two car garage ?
> >
> > If 3 kids could build an RV6A with some help from their dad ?
> >
> > What an RV builder looks like right after his first flight ?
> >
> > Point your browser to: http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
> >
> > I would like any comments you may have on this web site, I am teaching
> > my 16 year old how to build a web site. This is his first attempt. Thank
> s
> >
> > Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
> Tried it twice, nothing there
> Larry
> --
> Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
>
> lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
>
> KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
>
> Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Esther Email: billiam(at)mdhost.cse.tek.com
Tektronix, Inc
PO Box 500 (m/s 50-153) Voice: 503 627-5217
Beaverton, OR 97077-0001 FAX: 503 627-5584
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Scott
Nice looking web page. Thank you for sharing.
William E. Esther Salem,Or.
Restoring 1949 Model G Ercoupe
billiam(at)mdhost.cse.tek.com
|___|
____(+)____
| |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL" |
--=_ORCL_19566847_0_11919705091834430
I asked Van's this very question. ANY part can be credited, the cowl goes for
around $450. I
think BAC is asking around $925 for theirs.
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
*************************************************************************
--=_ORCL_19566847_0_11919705091834430
Date: 09 May 97 11:14:36
From:"Larry D. Hoatson "
Subject:Re: RV-List: B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL"
barnardaircraft wrote:
>
>
> This new cowling recently developed is sleeker, sexier, has better curves
Can the finish kit be ordered without the factory cowl, if you cowling
is to be used? How does the price compare to the factory piece?
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
--=_ORCL_19566847_0_11919705091834430--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Hi all,
How 'bout an RV list ballcap. Maybe a sight modification to Van's cap, or =
a Name badge that can be put on a Van's hat? Just thinking out loud.
Laird RV-6 wing tip lights
PS I should be at Chino this Sat. standing in front of the RV-8 at 12:00. =
(Goofy looking "thirty something" with an AJ Foyt hat and a silly grin. =
C ya there
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
=3D=3D> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>
>I'll be at Chino saturday. Unfortunately I will be driving. Should be a
>
I'll be there too. We on the list must come up with a way to identify
fellow listers at shows...at sun'n'fun this year I probably walked by a =
few
but unfortunately did not meet any.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------
by mars.aerovironment.com (Netscape Mail Server v2.02) with =
SMTP
id AAA961 for ;
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 08:15:34 -0700
From: Robert Acker <ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Chino
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: POOR OLD MURL & LISA! Don't cc: dps(at)unicom.com |
> Who-the-hell are Murl Hicks and Lisa Goldsmith?
> This is the third similar message today.
More like the 30th! Notice below that the last mail sent out to the list was
copied to them - dps(at)unicom.com
I think it is an internal problem but maybe we are all just replying to "ALL"
rather than to "SENDER" and they are being inumdated with our chatter. Or,
maybe they have someone using their system to connect to us!
I think we unsubscribe by sending mail to owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com so I sent
a note saying take the poor people off.
hal
> From owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com Fri May 9 15:08:48 1997
> Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 14:01:17 -0400
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc: dps(at)unicom.net
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> X-Info: Via World Wide Development
>
>
> Murl Hicks wrote:
> >
> >
> > PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECEIVE ANY
> > MORE OF THESE RECORDS.
> >
> > THANKS
> >
> > LISA GOLDSMITH
>
> Who-the-hell are Murl Hicks and Lisa Goldsmith?
> This is the third similar message today.
>
> Bob Moore
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Propellers |
>
>>I just talked to Rick Bauerman, who is an applications engineer at
>>Hartzell. He confirmed that the M2YR-1BF/7666A-2 prop is only rated for
>>up to 3.8 Gs. Since that is the prop Steve Barnard builds his really
neat
>>IO360 cowl around, and I am not interested in fiberglass work enough to
>>
>>Paul Lein
>
>Paul,
>
>Good info. I've been contemplating this cowl as well, your research
helps.
>I wonder if Hartzell has a dimensionally equivalent prop rated to 6
g's?
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
Hi Rob,
Had a phone conversation with Rick Bauerman from Hartzell propeller
today. The HC-C2YK propellers (no extension) are used on "hard aerobatic
airplanes". Pitts Specials and the like. There is no "G" limitation on
these propellers. On occasion they do break. Hard aerobatics includes
snap rolls and spins which place the most load on the propeller and
crankshaft at the thrust bearing. Since Van's does not recommend doing
either snap rolls or spins this shouldn't cause a problem. Snap rolls
are also hard on control surfaces.
Hartzell only tests airplane that utilize the short hub for hard
aerobatics. The M2YR hub propeller was installed on normal category
airplanes which are classified by Federal Aviation Regulations as a 3.8 g
airplane. Utility category is 4.4 g's.
Full aerobatic is 6 g's. Obviously Hartzell can not test an extended hub
propeller if the airplane is the limit. So they test to the limit of the
airplane category.
Therefore if the M2YR hub is used on an IO-360 with the heavy crankshaft,
mild aerobatics should not be a problem. Keep in mind this airplane is
for sport aerobatics. If someone wants to do aerobatics get some quality
instruction before attempting anything aerobatic. We've put way too much
effort into building these things to throw it all away on a simple roll
and split S out the bottom with no altitude left. If some wants to do
hard aerobatics try a Pitts Special or Extra.
The B.A.C. "Holy cowl" was designed around an extended hub propeller for
better aerodynamics due to the longer nose. It also adds length to the
cooling inlets before the air gets to the plenum for better ram recovery.
I.E., much better cooling. This also enabled a longer intake box for
better ram recovery on induction air. Most factory airplanes have a loss
of 2 to 3 inches of manifold pressure due to poorly designed airboxes.
We have obtained 1" over ambient at cruise settings. What this equates
to is better power at all flight conditions. All this with ram-filtered
air. We are filtering air 100% of the time.
I think the 200 hp fuel injected Lycoming with 1 electronic ignition
combined with the new cowling and cooling plenum to be the most efficient
& economical as far a speed and fuel burn are concerned that one can put
in an RV-series plane. I'm sure I'll pick up some flak on that one.
If your looking to improve on a great airplane this is one way to
do it. If you want good looks, speed and efficiency or just want
something different on your RV this may be what your looking for.
Life's short-build fast
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
--part_AF98F5930096C48200000004
If you look at the source of that page, you can see it was meant to be a frame
page. Although it's broken.
http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6index.htm
Will let you access the pages.
--part_AF98F5930096C48200000004
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
--part_AF98F5930096C48200000004--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Price <dwprice(at)webspan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
Scott wrote:
>
>
> Ever wondered ????????
>
> How to get an RV6A to the airport ?
>
> How you can fit a built RV6A in a two car garage ?
>
> If 3 kids could build an RV6A with some help from their dad ?
>
> What an RV builder looks like right after his first flight ?
>
> Point your browser to: http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
>
> I would like any comments you may have on this web site, I am teaching
> my 16 year old how to build a web site. This is his first attempt. Thanks
>
> Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
I enjoyed it very much,well done and it looks like you're family
enjoyed doing this project togather and thats hard to come by in this
day and age!!!.You should be very proud!!!.
David Price
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Beckham <76623.1166(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Powersport-Mazda Update |
FROM: Cheryl Sanchez, INTERNET:csanchez(at)world.std.com
DATE: 5/6/97 7:34 PM
Re: RE: RV-List: Powersport-Mazda Update
for the 200 h.p. Powersport-Mazda conversion engine. It comes complete
including propeller gear reduction, fuel injection, dual electronic ignition
etc. Price is $14,900. Cowlings and engine mounts will be available beginning
with the RV-3 and RV-4. These cowlings will be >patterned after the "King-Air"
type cowling we now have on our RV-4 test mule. Our address: Powersport, 12294
Hatch Lane, Aumsville, OR 97325. We have a 2500 ft. airstrip--located 12 miles
s.e. of Salem, Oregon ("Hatch >Pvt. on sectional). You are welcomed to come,
visit and have a tour of the facility. In addition to rotary update, we also do
performance mods and dyno >Lycomings so there is that for the recip crowd. >
>Are you going to Oshkosh? We will have a Powersport-Mazda rotary forum and
hope to have our RV-4 there. > >Steve Beckham >Everett Hatch > > >
Steve,
Another question. 200 h.p. is more than Van recommends for the RV-3.
What airframe mods are necessary for that much power? I could see beefing up the
forward fuselage and firewall, thicker skins on the tail surfaces and balancing
the tail surfaces.
Thanks.
Cheryl:
Regarding your RV-3 questions suggest you talk with Alan Tolle or Van. Alan
built his RV-3 with the intention of installing our engine and achieving speeds
above those of stock RV-3 so made numerous mods such as thicker tail surfaces
and balancing. I don't remember that Alan did any firewall or forward fuselage
mods you mentioned. We have done none of these on our RV-4. Structure is
stock, firewall rearward on -4. But your concerns are very good-- Alan's
straight/level speeds are above VNE of stock RV-3. Normally most higher h.p.
engines above standard power are heavier. But our 200 h.p. engine weighs 265
pounds. This includes propeller reduction gear, fuel injection, starter,
alternator, ignition and water pump. So installed weight is approx. 40-plus
lighter than O-320. Bottom line: if you limit speeds our 200 h.p. engine
should not pose structural problems. But check with Alan regarding his airframe
mods and engine/airframe integration. His telephone: 209-447-1112. You may
also want to contact Claudio Tonnini. He is building RV-3 and has placed a
deposit for our rotary. He has been in contact with Alan. Also Stan Blanton
has ordered one for his RV6A--his tele: 806-799-4664. Stan also on RV list.
In your earlier note you asked recommended constant speed prop for our engine.
Ans: electric control. This probably means MT at this stage. We are looking
very hard to find an in-flight adjustable propeller with a more efficient,
thinner tip and less expensive.
We hope to see you at Copperstate. We will have forum there in addition to
Arlington before Oshkosh. Hope to have both RV-4 and Alan's RV-3 at
Copperstate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 BAC Holy cowl |
>
>>
>SNIP
>>Any extended hub propeller Hartzell supplies with the exception of the
>HC-C2YK >is limited to 3.8 g's.
Steve:
>The HC-C2YK is a standard hub, not an extended hub.
>
>And did you know the HC-M2YR-1BF/7666A-2 is approved for use on the
>IO-360-A1B6,-A1B6D,-A1D6,-C1D6 With A max/min lenght of 76/73 and an rpm
>restriction to avoid continuous use between 2100 and 2350rpm.
>
>Now I know since it is on an experimental you can do anything you want, so
>you can cut the blades down, but you take the risk of vibration problems.
>Regards:
>Rusty Gossard
>N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
>
>
Hi Rusty,
Yes the HC-C2YK is a standard hub. The intent here was to clarify what
Hartzell considers to be an aerobatic propeller, ie. no extension. The
HC-C2YK can be used for "hard aerobatics".
I am aware of the restriction imposed on one aircraft. There is also
another airplane which uses the same propeller and engine combination as
what you've stated and has no restriction.
Engine and propeller combinations are approved by Hartzell, Lycoming and
the airframe manufacturers on a specific airplane basis. Not all airplanes
have the same resonant vibrations. Here's a good question for you. Has
the RV series been tested for vibration using any of the propeller engine
combinations currently installed? The answer is no. We are all testing
what we have installed. Maybe some day Van's will embark on this task so
we will all know or have a better idea on how the creation we have
assembled reacts. That's why standards we're established in the airplane
industry. To give us some degree of comfort knowing it has gone thru some
sort of certification process. These are homebuilts.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360 |
>
>Murl Hicks wrote:
>> PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DO NOT WANT TO RECEIVE ANY
>> MORE OF THESE RECORDS.
>>
>> THANKS
>>
>> LISA GOLDSMITH
>
>Who-the-hell are Murl Hicks and Lisa Goldsmith?
>This is the third similar message today.
Bob:
We've had eight so far. They obviously have their e-mail set on auto pilot.
Maybe we should all set ours on autopilot to respond directly. Maybe with a
few thousand helpful suggestions that they unsubscribe would give them a
clue that we don't appreciate their input.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Propellers |
Usually, when I get mail that has no message, only an attachment - I delete it
without
reading it. Steve Barnard's is worth opening tho. Steve wrote:
>I think the 200 hp fuel injected Lycoming with 1 electronic ignition combined
>with the new cowling and cooling plenum to be the most efficient & economical
>as far a speed and fuel burn are concerned that one can put in an RV-series
>plane.
and then he said:
>I'm sure I'll pick up some flak on that one.
Yes, indeedy! Especially when the claims are without hard numbers!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Unwrapping the horizontal stab - this isn't so hard!
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: com antennae |
Iam looking for a pneumatic right angle drill,, preferably used. Anyone
out there done with theirs and want to sell it?
Contact me direct if you want ... Markvn @ aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | New RV6A Website - FIXED To Work With Netscape Navigator |
Too
Good job!
Les Williams
-
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of scott
Sent: Friday, May 09, 1997 12:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: New RV6A Website - FIXED To Work With Netscape Navigator
Too
Website now works with Netscape Navigator or Microsoft Internet Explorer !
Fixed Today ...
Ever wondered ????????
How to get an RV6A to the airport ?
How you can fit a built RV6A in a two car garage ?
If 3 kids could build an RV6A with some help from their dad ?
What an RV builder looks like right after his first flight ?
Point your browser to: http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
I would like any comments you may have on this web site, I am teaching
my 16 year old how to build a web site. He needs to improve some of his
spelling and ? This is his first attempt. Thanks
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Weller <clue(at)sig.use.it> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice needed on cutting skin for camera hole |
>
>RE CAMERA HOLE CUTOUT
>
>I tried this idea on a Continental powered C-172 (two exhaust pipes) many
>years ago and learned the following, we had to do a severe sideslip to get
>the engine exhaust away from the camera port.
>
I've been flying Cessna 206 and 210 (Turbo on both) with holes in the bottom
for some pretty large cameras. On both of them the exhaust was modified to
go out the right side of the cowling to keep the stuff away from the lens of
the camera. Even with that, one needs to clean the lens before and after
each flight. And those holes do come with a steep price. Control lines and
fuel lines had to be re-routed.
>Has anyone out there mounted a motor drive camera on a RV?
>
Oh, I wish! I'm working on it.
>George McNutt, HS - 6A
>
Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyingw <flyingw(at)ihug.co.nz> |
Ive just read some discussion on props and aerobatics etc.
The comment was made that Vans does not recommend spinning or snap rolls
in the RV series aircraft.
Ive been saving towards the RV8 for some time now, and im getting a lot
closer to purchasing a large section of the kit ie emp, wing, fuse, tools etc.
I realize that they are a very clean aircraft and require absolute care and
attention in the down line.
>From what i read on the list i understand that they have a stronger wing
etc than a cessna 152 aerobat.
I most certainly can not afford the substancially higher price of a Pitts
or Extra or Giles 200 or any of the very dedicated aerobatic planes.
The cessna aerobat performs a lovely spin and a good clean snap roll.
But i would be very dissapointed to think that i would have to stay with
flying aeroclub ie hire cessna aerobats for the rest of my life.
Most of the ones ive flown have so much crap in them that falls to bits
during aeros, doors that suddenly fly open during slow rolls and to cap it
off that annoying high wing with its piss poor aerobatic visibility.
Its no wonder to me they are labeled spam cans.
Im head over heals in love with the RV8 but would be dissapointed to think
they cant be used for sportsman aeros with maybe a little intermediate as
well.
I have a friend here in Kiwiland who is really doing great in his RV4 with
intermediate aeros. What gives ?
Could I get some comment on exactly what the RV8 is safely able to perform
as far as aerobatic manouvers, also i see they are a -6 g
aircraft is this a usable -6g or is all the extra cost of inverted fuel oil
and injector system just going to be a waist of time and money.
Respectfully
Warren Jones RV8 hopefull kiwiland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E-615PP platenut attach question |
--=_ORCL_19576148_0_11919705092324090
Steve,
Following the "make-it-fit" credo, I machine countersunk E-615PP and flush
riveted the platenuts on. Turned out great.
I dimpled E-615PP for the skin attach rivets.
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
*************************************************************************
--=_ORCL_19576148_0_11919705092324090
Date: 09 May 97 16:36:03
From:"ix.netcom.com!spjohnsn(at)matronics.com (Stephen Paul Johnson)"
Subject:RV-List: E-615PP platenut attach question
Hi all,
I'd like to finish up the E-615PP trim reinforcement plate and rivet it
to the left elevator skin before bending the trailing edge. It is not
obvious to me how to attach the platenuts. It looks like I should
dimple the platenut rivet holes to accept the dimples in the E-615PP,
but I don't recall having this procedure discussed on the list. Also,
If I dimple the E-616PP cover plate with dies for #6 screws, and
likewise dimple the screw holes in the E-615PP, then the nutplates
won't fit flush. Please excuse if this has been discussed before.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
--=_ORCL_19576148_0_11919705092324090--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Weller <clue(at)sig.use.it> |
| Subject: | Re: com antennas |
>
>Is it possible that antennas are like wine - that there is usually a
difference
>in quality between the cheapest and the more expensive? It is true that an
>inexperienced wine consumer may not be able to taste that difference.
>
You are correct. A dipole is a dipole. frequency=wavelength*c. Go figure.
>I do love these things that puncture the balloons of the people who are
ripping
>off us junior birdmen!
Yes. A friend of mine gave me some "Antenna Wax". Gauranteed to lower my
SWR, improve gain, reduce sidelobes, increase airspeed, and much more. It
was, of course, a joke.
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Unwrapping the horizontal stab - this isn't so hard!
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Van's Online Ordering - Try it! |
Hello fellow RVers,
I just wanted to give a quick pirep on Van's new Online Ordering available via
the Internet at "order(at)vansaircraft.com". Last weekend I discovered I needed
a few 'things' for the 'ol -4 - some bolts, the strips of steel to connect the
rudder peddles to the cables, the elevator pushrod tube (Hey how'd that get
so short - I cut it three times and it *still* wasn't long enough!) - you know,
stuff that comes in handy for those 'other' projects every once in a while.
At any rate, I shot off a quick email message on Sunday to the
'order(at)vansaircraft.com' address, included the quanity and part numbers I
needed along with my Plans Number and shipping address and then sat back to
see what would happen. Boy, was I pleasantly suprised! On Monday morning I
received a conformation email from Bill Benedict indicating that my order had
been received and placed in their system. On Wednesday morning the UPS truck
dropped off my parts! Now that's service! Thanks to everyone at Van's for
the great service! Keep up the good work - we builders appreciate it!
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Steve Barnard wrote:
The B.A.C. "Holy cowl" was designed around an extended hub propeller
> for better aerodynamics due to the longer nose. It also adds length to
> the cooling inlets before the air gets to the plenum for better ram
> recovery. I.E., much better cooling.
Most RV-6's that I am familiar with do not have a cooling problem, in
fact all the ones here at the Hillsboro airport run to cold (150-160
deg.oil temp) or at least at optimum temps of 180-190 deg.
> This also enabled a longer intake
> box for better ram recovery on induction air. Most factory airplanes
> have a loss of 2 to 3 inches of manifold pressure due to poorly
> designed airboxes. We have obtained 1" over ambient at cruise
> settings. What this equates to is better power at all flight
> conditions. All this with ram-filtered air. We are filtering air 100%
> of the time.
>
> I think the 200 hp fuel injected Lycoming with 1 electronic ignition
> combined with the new cowling and cooling plenum to be the most
> efficient & economical as far a speed and fuel burn are concerned that
> one can put in an RV-series plane. I'm sure I'll pick up some flak on
> that one.
Why would you pick up flak if this is true?
In one of your earlier post you said that the 200 hp would increase
the speed of a RV-6 by 20-25 mph over a 180 hp, are you saying you
can cruise at 230 mph and burn less fuel? (based on my O-360 at
altitude full throttle and TAS of 206 mph) At what power settings are
you running your IO-360 to achieve this? What is your fuel burn? What
do all of your options weigh? What are you using as a gross weight?
> If your looking to improve on a great airplane this is one way to do
> it. If you want good looks, speed and efficiency or just want
> something different on your RV this may be what your looking for.
I think the design as Van's designed it is fine as is and when I see
claims that exceed the design limits of the airplane I have to
question Why?
> Life's short-build fast
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Steve Barnard
> Barnard Aircraft Components
> RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
> steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
> http://www.barnardaircraft.com
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS O-360 180hp
First flight July 14, 1989 :-)
Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>I got the wings on, ready to drill the rear spar attach points. (RV-4)
>With the rear spar on wing lined up perfectly with spar carry through
>(vertically) it came out to 1 deg incidence, as close as I can tell. If
>I move the wing up approximately 1/4 inch to meet the 1/2 deg. +
>incidence, the 5/16 hole I will drill will not have the required 5/8"
>edge clearance. My question is this: If I leave it centered and drill
>it so there is no question about the edge tolerance, can I adjust the
>extra 1/2 deg. of positive incidence out with the tail? If I leave it 1
>deg. positive, like it is, how will that affect the flying
>characteristics? Is it something that will need to be adjusted? Thanks
>for any help, I am going to drill them tomorrow. Also, measuring from
>wingtip to common point on fuselage, one wing is 3/8" farther than the
>other. I don't know what that equates to in degrees of sweep, but does
>one of you experts out there know if this is something to be concerned
>about? Boy, an 1/8" out, here or there really adds up when you need to
>measure for something like this.
>
Mike, You need to maintain the edge distance. Go ahead and set the edge
distance, check for the same distance from the tips to a common point on
the fuselage and that the leading edges of both wings are in a straight line
(ie not forward swept) and drill. Then set the Horizontal Stabalizer with
0.5 degree incidence. The fuselage may be flying downhill all the time,
but that is all. The RV-6/6A use a 1 degree incidence with the same wing
span, same wing area and same fuse length (almost). When checking
incidence, don't use just one area on the wing. Check several places along
the span of the wing. Even though it is built with no twist, there will be
a certain amount of wave in the wing. Probably the most effective area on
the wing for roll moment is about 2/3 of the span out from the fuselage. I
would give this area a little more credit when setting the incidence. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)msn.com> |
I am building a RV-8 and would like to install a stall warning. Has anyone
put one on a 4 or 6?
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>Ive just read some discussion on props and aerobatics etc.
>The comment was made that Vans does not recommend spinning or snap rolls
>in the RV series aircraft.
The RV-4 and -8 are different in design from the -6/6A (just in case no one
noticed). The -4 and -8 are capable of spinning without qualification. The
-6/6A can be spun, however it has a spin characteristic that Van does not
feel comfortable with, so he does not recommend spins. There are several
people I know who spin their -6's without hesitation and have no problem
with it, but they limit the number of turns and perform a recovery before
the spin develops past the third turn. The wide bodies (6/6A) have a
characteristic of developing a tight high rate of spin some time after the
third turn that requires the pilot to move the stick to a neutral position,
apply opposite rudder and 'wait' for the recovery to occur. The -4 will
recover 'hands off', the -6/6A will unless the aircraft gets into the tight
spin. You can read more about this if you look back through the RVators.
Van wrote a detailed description about his testing, but I don't have it at
my fingertips. Snap rolls can be performed in an RV if you slow down to the
recommended entry speed. I look at a snap maneuver as something that was
developed to force a roll in an aircraft that would not perform a graceful
roll. Please don't flame me on this, it is said in jest. Until you enjoy
the rolls in an RV, my statement may seem unfair.
>
>The cessna aerobat performs a lovely spin and a good clean snap roll.
>But i would be very dissapointed to think that i would have to stay with
>flying aeroclub ie hire cessna aerobats for the rest of my life.
Once you fly aerobatics in an RV, even if you cannot perform a snap roll,
you will probably never want to get back in the aerobat. Well, maybe once,
but you will see how akward it feels next to the graceful handling
characteristic of an RV. I'm beginning to sound like a salesman, but the
more you fly 'em, the more you appreciate 'em, especially in the unusual
attitudes.
>Most of the ones ive flown have so much crap in them that falls to bits
>during aeros, doors that suddenly fly open during slow rolls and to cap it
>off that annoying high wing with its piss poor aerobatic visibility.
>Its no wonder to me they are labeled spam cans.
You are experiencing the results of the airframe flexing, and flexing means
moving, and moving means wearing. The RV does not flex as much because it
is more rigid. Also, since it flies around the basic manuvers instead of
falling through them, the airframe does not need to flap (yield) as much.
>Im head over heals in love with the RV8 but would be dissapointed to think
>they cant be used for sportsman aeros with maybe a little intermediate as
>well.
>
>I have a friend here in Kiwiland who is really doing great in his RV4 with
>intermediate aeros. What gives ?
The only thing that 'gives' is confusing (no fault of yours) a suggestion on
-6/6A characteristics with the -4 and -8.
>Could I get some comment on exactly what the RV8 is safely able to perform
>as far as aerobatic manouvers, also i see they are a -6 g
>aircraft is this a usable -6g or is all the extra cost of inverted fuel oil
>and injector system just going to be a waist of time and money.
The spars are symetrical, so the loading can be symetrical. What is the -8
capable of performing? You can start by seeing what the -4 is capable of
performing! Van has not uncovered any characteristics that we want to limit
the aircraft on yet.
>Respectfully
>
>Warren Jones RV8 hopefull kiwiland
Does Van recommend any of our aircraft for 'hardcore aerobatics'? No! Does
he recommend sport aerobatics? You betcha! Is building an RV a waste of
money? I don't think so! Even if you don't like it (and there is probably
someone out there who has not liked it), you can sell it for more than you
have invested in the flying aircraft. Is that a waste of time and money?
Maybe a waste of time, but a lot of builders have just as much fun building
as a lot of us have in flying.
Hope this did not offend anyone, I just like to put little quips in to
bring a smile to the readers face. However, snap manuvers and spins just
become so unimportant when you have the capacity to perform aileron rolls,
barrel rolls, loops and all the combinations without having to dive to pick
up speed, and if you do not have the inverted 'stuff', these can all be
gracefully done in the positive domain (positive g's).
Today, I took one of our employees who is blind up for his first fright, I
mean flight in a small plane. With just positive manuvers, we did rolls
and loops with me describing where the horizon was all the time. He even
got a little stick time. Had no problem as long as we were in trim, but
when the plane accelerated and the pitch trim was out, we had one roller
coaster ride! This fellow has been blind since birth and has a remarkable
sense of presence. He got more sensation out of a 3.5g turn than he did out
of the roll and loop. By the way, we did all this in a -6A, even
prolonged stalls so he could experience the stall characteristic.
Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
Your son did a nice job on the web site.
Steve
Huntington, Vt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics (blind) |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Bill,
My congratulations on sharing this wonderful
experience with the blind. This is a another great
example of how we can expose this great sport with
more of the general public. Keep up the good work!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)juno.com
writes:
>
**** SNIP ****
>
>Today, I took one of our employees who is blind up for his first
fright, I
>mean flight in a small plane. With just positive manuvers, we did
rolls
>and loops with me describing where the horizon was all the time. He
even
>got a little stick time. Had no problem as long as we were in trim,
but
>when the plane accelerated and the pitch trim was out, we had one
roller
>coaster ride! This fellow has been blind since birth and has a
emarkable
>sense of presence. He got more sensation out of a 3.5g turn than he did
out
>of the roll and loop. By the way, we did all this in a -6A, even
>prolonged stalls so he could experience the stall characteristic.
>Bill
>
>Bill
>RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
>flying hours.
>These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions
>or
>position of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E-615PP platenut attach question |
Steven Spruell wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> Following the "make-it-fit" credo, I machine countersunk E-615PP and flush
> riveted the platenuts on. Turned out great.
>
> I dimpled E-615PP for the skin attach rivets.
>
> *************************************************************************
> * Steven Spruell League City, TX *
> * sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
> * *
> * Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
> *************************************************************************
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RV-List: E-615PP platenut attach question
> Date: 09 May 97 16:36:03
> From: "ix.netcom.com!spjohnsn(at)matronics.com (Stephen Paul Johnson)"
>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> CC: philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'd like to finish up the E-615PP trim reinforcement plate and rivet it
> to the left elevator skin before bending the trailing edge. It is not
> obvious to me how to attach the platenuts. It looks like I should
> dimple the platenut rivet holes to accept the dimples in the E-615PP,
> but I don't recall having this procedure discussed on the list. Also,
> If I dimple the E-616PP cover plate with dies for #6 screws, and
> likewise dimple the screw holes in the E-615PP, then the nutplates
> won't fit flush. Please excuse if this has been discussed before.
>
> Steve Johnson
>
> RV-8 #80121
Steve, hi
I dimpled the cover for flat head #6 screws, but countersunk the E-615PP
for the screws and nutplate mounting rivets. I riveted the nutplates
on, and then countersink the screw holes as deeply as possible, right up
to the steel. This will make the covers fit almost flush.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Cathy Lamport) |
Am within l year of completion of a 6A and am thinking about avionics.
What brand of encoder seems to be a. reliable, b. best value, c.
easiest to install, etc. Using a KT76 transponder, KY97 com and
Skyblazer GPS.
Dale Lamport
#23861
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: com antennas |
True a dipole is just a dipole, but most of those expensive aircraft
antennas are not just dipoles, but then again some are. Consider that
there have been simple stainless com antennas out there for airplanes at a
relatively low cost also. I think about 10 yrs ago I paid about $25. The
difference of coures is quantity produced, and the fact that it had special
little insulators for mounting it to the skin, etc. All in all it worked
as good as the expensive one. but was limited to 150 mph, and didn't look
as good (if that matters).
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
----------
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: Morristec
> Subject: Re: RV-List: com antennas
> Date: Friday, May 09, 1997 9:24 PM
>
>
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com [163.179.3.9] by bbs.icdc.com with
smtp
> Received: from matronics.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with UUCP
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> Message-Id: <1.5.4.32.19970510032548.009eb184(at)pop.hsv.mindspring.com>
> X-Sender: midibu(at)pop.hsv.mindspring.com
> X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32)
> Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 22:25:48 -0500
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> From: Mike Weller <sig.use.it!clue(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: com antennas
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> >
> >Is it possible that antennas are like wine - that there is usually a
> difference
> >in quality between the cheapest and the more expensive? It is true that
an
> >inexperienced wine consumer may not be able to taste that difference.
> >
>
> You are correct. A dipole is a dipole. frequency=wavelength*c. Go
figure.
>
> >I do love these things that puncture the balloons of the people who are
> ripping
> >off us junior birdmen!
>
> Yes. A friend of mine gave me some "Antenna Wax". Gauranteed to lower
my
> SWR, improve gain, reduce sidelobes, increase airspeed, and much more.
It
> was, of course, a joke.
>
> >
> >Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Unwrapping the horizontal stab - this isn't
so hard!
> >halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
> >
>
> Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction)
> midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Aerobatics |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
>To date, all my aerobatic flying has been in aircraft equipped with
>inverted systems. I am in the process of building an RV-6. I am
>debating putting in the fuel injection and inverted systems. I
>probably
>will not put them in because I am well aware that the RV-6 is NOT a
>highly aerobatic aircraft.
Glen,
Now you have got my dander up. I would like to know on what basis you
make this claim? Have you flown an RV-6? All of the RVs are truly sweet
aerobatic mounts. They have light controls and quick, crisp response.
They have enough power to do any maneuver in the book from level, cruise
flight. The low angular inertia about every axis, in particular,
delights me. I could wish for more power and more roll rate, but then I
have never flown any airplane that I thought had too much power or too
much roll rate (including the F-15!) I am a 2500-hour military
instructor pilot. I know several retired fighter pilots, now flying
airliners, who fly RVs on the side because they handle like little
fighters. The first time I got a back-seat ride in an RV-4, I had to
have one. It is one of two airplanes I have ever flown that felt just
right from the moment I grabbed the stick.
>My question is......
>On an RV-6 without inverted systems, what kinds of maneuvers can be
>flown safely?
As in any airplane, you can fly any maneuver in the book (and any other
maneuver you can invent) as long as you stay within the capabilities of
the airplane and the pilot. Don't pull more than plus or minus six Gs,
don't exceed 210 mph, and without an inverted system, don't push neggies
until the engine quits. (I know that several guys race RVs around 230
mph, but I'll bet they aren't pulling any significant G.) The rest is
entirely up to you. All of the ex-military pilots I mentioned are flying
without inverted systems, and all do extensive aerobatics.
I am having Everett Hatch build me an O-360 of about 195 hp with fuel
injection and inverted fuel and oil. It is expensive, but fits well with
my intended purpose for the airplane. I intend more aerobatics,
formation, and dogfights than pure cruise flight. Just rationally
examine your purpose for the airplane, weigh the costs against the
benefits, and decide for yourself!
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear
>
>Hi,
>
>
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: 3-bladed props |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
Don't be too quick to jump for a three-bladed prop.
As in all aircraft choices, a three-bladed propeller is a compromise. Be
aware that aerodynamic theory suggests a three-bladed prop will be less
efficient than a two-bladed prop of the same design. The reason is that
each blade operates in the wake of the previous blade. This effect
becomes more pronounced as you increase the number of blades. So why do
some airplanes, particularly those with more powerful engines, use three
(or more) blades? Remember that each propeller blade is a wing. As the
lift ( thrust) that the propeller must produce increases (with increased
power input), each blade operates closer to its maximum coefficient of
lift. Just as in sizing an aircraft wing, the designer must increase the
propeller "wing area" in order to reduce the blade loading. But now
another design factor comes into play. It may be impractical to simply
increase the blade length because of decreased propeller clearance from
the ground. The designer may opt to increase landing gear length, but
this in turn increases weight, cost, and complexity, particularly for
retractable-gear airplanes. A second option would be to increase the
area of each blade, as in the paddle blades on the C-130, P-51, and
SU-26. A third option would be to increase the number of propeller
blades.
I noted at least one post suggested that a three-bladed prop would lead
to more speed. This is not accurate. The design point that would
require a switch to three blades would be the low-speed, high-power
regime, most notably takeoff and aerobatic flight.
So before you buy a three-bladed prop, consider the costs and benefits.
A three-bladed prop will be more expensive, less efficient, and heavier
than a two-bladed prop of the same design. On the other hand, it will
run more smoothly, be able to handle higher power loads, and will just
look cooler. Look around at airports. I doubt that you will find many
three-bladed props on airplanes of 200 horsepower or less. An exception,
as in the case of the Lancair, would be airplanes with very short landing
gear.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jorear(at)mrnet.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
>"The -4 and -8 are capable of spinning without qualification. "
Have either of the -8's gone through extensive spin testing yet? I'm
curious if the wider fuselage makes them more RV-6-like in terms of rate?
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Empenage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Blade Prop on IO-360 |
It sounds like Murl Hicks ***used to*** work for Lisa
Goldsmith at Digital Printing Services, and
Lisa is still getting the RV-List on the office Net
connection?????
I sent off-list mail to clue Lisa on how to unsubscribe,
but by now it's probably ALL being ignored.
D. Anderson
>
> Murl Hicks wrote:
> >
> >
> > PLEASE REMOVE OUR ADDRESS FROM YOUR RECORDS. WE DO NOT
WANT TO RECEIVE ANY
> > MORE OF THESE RECORDS.
> >
> > THANKS
> >
> > LISA GOLDSMITH
>
> Who-the-hell are Murl Hicks and Lisa Goldsmith?
> This is the third similar message today.
>
> Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hpair(at)thegrid.net |
| Subject: | RV4 or RV6 wing tips for sale |
I have a brand new set of wing tips for sale with nut plates already
installed, so ya can take them off for maintenance. Ready to drill the
holes in the wings. 1st $250.oo takes em .
Harry Paine
805-481-2524
hpair(at)thegrid.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyingw <flyingw(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: To Bill Benedict |
Thanks Bill
Im clear on that one now.
Im really looking forward to the building.
What an absolute honey of an aircraft.
A very well written reply, thanks.
I love my aeros and by all accounts the very best is yet to come.
Even the saving ( for the kitset ) has become a passion in itself.
But after reading your reply im hungry to start.
Its gonna be good. Thanks Mate !
Warren Jones Reassured and smiling in Kiwiland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
--=_ORCL_19583434_0_11919705101313010
Stan,
Rob Lee put a reed switch off of a Piper on his -6A. I think he said he just eyeballed
the
location, although the mount allowed for some vertical adjustment. Try Rob at
av8r(at)hic.net.
Steve
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
*************************************************************************
--=_ORCL_19583434_0_11919705101313010
Date: 10 May 97 03:03:17
From:"Stan Mehrhoff "
Subject:RV-List: stall warning
I am building a RV-8 and would like to install a stall warning. Has anyone
put one on a 4 or 6?
Stan
--=_ORCL_19583434_0_11919705101313010--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealing |
Mitch,
Be sure your fuel sending units are the newer foil type resistor verses the
old wire wound resistor type. They last 10 times longer and the fuel tank is
no fun taking off after you have your wings on. I know, I had to replace my
old type after 100 hours.
Chris May
N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
Juts got done drilling left top wing skin. I have some oil canning between
two outboard bays. Seems like I'm really good at introducing it in my bird!
Two questions:
1) I can install an additional "rib" between two main ribs much like w-625
near the bell crank. Anybody know a reason not to?
2) I drilled to spar first, then expanded 2-4 holes at a time from center to
edge, with the center leading the march to the rear spar. How do others
drill their skins to prevent oil canning? Should I just drill the main spar,
then march down all ribs equally to the spar? The BOTTOM skin was perfect
(wouldn't you know it) using the method I described....
Jon Scholl
RV6
bcg007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
All I meant regarding the "Not HIGHLY Aerobatic" capabilities of the
RV-6 was that it is not in the same class as a Sukoih, Extra, or even a
Pitts.
If I chose my terminology incorrectly, well....sorry 'bout that. Didn't
mean to ruffle anyone's feathers.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealing |
Chris,
How can one tell if they have the new type fuel level units? How long has
Van been using the newer types?
Thanks.
Mal
rvbildr(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3-bladed props |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
(John T. Craig-Stearman) writes:
>Craig-Stearman)
>
>Don't be too quick to jump for a three-bladed prop. As in all
>aircraft choices, a three-bladed propeller is a compromise.
(Snip)
> A three-bladed prop will be more expensive, less efficient, and
heavier than a
>two-bladed prop of the same design. On the other hand, it will run
>more smoothly, be able to handle higher power loads, and will just
>look cooler. Look around at airports. I doubt that you will find
>many three-bladed props on airplanes of 200 horsepower or less. An
>exception,
>as in the case of the Lancair, would be airplanes with very short
>landing
>gear.
>
>Regards,
>Tom Craig-Stearman
>tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com RV-4 on the gear
Hi All,
I really tried to stay out of this one.
The three blade electric variable pitch Ivoprop Magnum prop has been
running very successfully on the Velocity with a Lycoming IO-360 of 200
Hp. Anyone notice if it was at Sun'n'Fun??
The Ivoprop three blade prop weighs the same as the fixed pitch Sensenich
Metal Prop for the O-320, and costs $1,960. It is a bolt on to ANY
Lycoming (as well as my dry flange LOM). And if you want to try the prop
as a two blade, just install it with two blades. (Of course, the two
blade prop is 5 pounds lighter than the three blade prop.)
Velocity convinced Ivo to build a high pitch version of the Magnum prop
for the Velocity. So far Ivo has only made a pusher version. They work
on pusher aircraft and LOM powered RV's. :-)
When I get my Dec. 96 annual completed with Lamb tires, Klaus wheel
pants, Tracy Saylor gear leg fairings, Matronics Fuelscan installed,
removable VS COM antenna, an electronic governor for my Ivoprop, I'll get
a chance to try out a set of the new blades.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/ivoprop.htm (most graphics removed to
reduce access time.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)world.std.com> |
Excellent post on aorbatics by Bill Benedict. But
you made no mention of how the 3 spins. Care to comment?
Cheryl Sanchez
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)world.std.com> |
> RV-List message posted by: "Owens"
>
>Hi all,
>
>How 'bout an RV list ballcap. Maybe a sight modification to Van's cap, or a
Name badge that can be put on a Van's hat? Just thinking out loud.
>
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe someone one the
list could have a bunch of official "rv list" badges made up. We
could buy them for a small fee to cover cost with a bit more
going to Matt's company.
Any takers?
Cheryl Sanchez
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A Fuel Tank Rib Question |
| From: | greenrv(at)juno.com (Lawrence J. Greeno) |
Plan #18a shows the fuel tank construction for the RV6A. Both the root
and outboard rib tips have the addition of a small reinforcement piece
which is riveted on with AN426 rivets. It seems logical that the flush
side of these rivets should be on the outside of the tank, since I can
see no use for the flush side inside the tank. However, I see no
apparent reason for them being on the outside. A brief word on this will
be much appreciated. I've checked every plan sheet with this part on it,
and the photos in the binder, and see no apparent reason for their being
flush rivets. Thanks much for a reply.
Larry Greeno, VP for Planned Giving, Roberts Wesleyan College,
2301 Westside Dr.,Rochester, NY PH:716-594-6401
greenrv(at)juno.com or greenol(at)roberts.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: 3-bladed props |
> Don't be too quick to jump for a three-bladed prop.
>
> The reason is that each blade operates in the wake of the previous
>blade.
Assuming a velocity of 150 mph, 2,700 rmp and a 3 blade prop; at 15
inches out from center, the blade turns 1/3 revolution in app. 1/15 of a
second and moves 31 inches in the plane of rotation, and forward in the
direction of flight 176 inches; no wake, but I could be wrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Thoughts on COMM antennas |
I've been watching a thread on this subject. I think it started
when someone asked why that little stick of metal had to cost so
much money. There've been a number of responses most of which
contributed good and useable ideas but I'd like to summarize
some of what I've read and organized in no particlular way, add
a few thoughts of my own:
VHF comm antennas operate over a range of 118 to 135 MHz here
in the US . . . similar ranges elsewhere. The classic solution
to comm antennas on airplanes has been abasic, 1/4 wave, mono-
pole antenna using the aircraft skin as a ground-plane.The
antenna's radiating part has to be electrically connnected to
the coaxial feedline which carries signals between antenna and
transceiver.
The most durable materials for construction are the steels,
most popular of which is a stainless. Copper, brass and alluminum
have been suggested and used successfully for enclosed antennas
in composite structures but they are difficult to make live
on the outside. Non-ferrous materials work-harden and tend to
break off after some priod of time "waving in the breezes".
Electrical connections to copper and brass are easy . . solder
it. Aluminum and steels need soldered or solderless terminals
attached to the radiator with some sort of threaded fastener.
Many years ago, Cessna fabricated their own antennas by threading
the end of a 3/16" stainless rod, mounting the threaded end through
a two-piece, ceramic insulator in the cabin top and holding the
whole business in place with a nut inside and one outside. A third
nut attached the coax center conductor's crimped on terminal to the
base of the rod. Another terminal attached the coax shield to the
skin adjacent to the antenna base. The antenna would have worked
best if left straight but performance was only slightly degraded
by bending the rod aft to give it a rakish appearance.
This design suffered from the ususal problems. Things like this
stuck into the airstream like to shake rattle and roll. Skin
doublers were wont to crack around the hole where the insulator
came through. They leaked when it rained. They would also tend to
loosen up and if over tightened by a zealous mechanic, the ceramic
insulator would give it up with a sound like cracking ice.
None-the-less, the cost of fabrication and installation was
attractive and like most maufacturers then and since, cost
out-the-door was a MAJOR driver, not cost-of-ownership AFTER
it got out the door . . .
Aluminum and brass can be used for antenna rod material but
be prepared for periodic replacment. These materials work-harden
and break off regularly. Steel antennas can resonate and vibrate
in the wind and break too. I was riding shotgun with my sister
on a driving trip a few winters ago. We were getting some very
light precipitation and the OAT was about 29 degrees. I watched
in fasination as the am/fm antenna right out the window from me
gathered ice. As it's shape and mass changed, I watched it start
to "hum" . . it had a perfect full wave mode with a node right
in the middle that stood perfectly still. As the ice coating
grew, the amplitude of the hum grew too. My enjoyment of watching
the demonstration ended when the antenna just disappeared!
It broke cleanly from the fender mount right at the base.
People are generally unaware of the fact that MOST of an
antenna's good work happens in the first few inches off the
base. The design I just described had a substantial percentage
of it's working length INSIDE the cabin. The rod extended
through the cabin roof about an inch, an the coax cables I
saw had about another inch of exposed center conductor
hanging out from under the shield before a terminal was
installed. This material is PART of the antenna's overall
length at the base where the critter is trying to lauch
your signals into the ether . . . the part inside the
cabin was willing but crippled.
There was some mention of a radio shack automotive antenna
as a likely candidtate for vhf comm conversion. I bought a
12-1322 radio shack antenna for $10. First, the conducting
part is all one piece, not telescoping (good). The base is
designed for installation through a 7/8" hole with all the
work being accomplished from outside. All of the metals
appear to be stainless or plated except for the mounting
barrel which appears to be injection molded aluminum.
First, the coax feedline supplied with this antenna would
have to be discarded. If you cut it open you'll find a very
tiny center conductor designed to provide a low capacitance,
hi-impedance connection between antenna base and the input
stages of an automotive a.m. radio. This coax is unsuitable
for connecting the 50-ohm output of a transmitter to the
antenna. If you look inside the connector at the base of
the antenna, you'll see a stainless steel pin which is the
machined down butt of the antenna rod. The original connector
has a hard copper female sleeve that gets a fair grip on
this stub when the connector is engaged.
In am/fm radio service, this joint carries very tiny currents
in a receive-only mode. While you're transmitting, a 5 watt
transmitter will generate approx .3 amps in this joint. A
lot of degredation in this connection will go un-noticed in
am/fm applications while vhf comm transmission requires a
solid connection.
I think my approach would be to drill a piece of brass rod
for an interruption fit to the stub. Turn down the other
end for a solder post . . . .06 to .08" diameter. Or tap
it for 8-32 nut. Clamp the antenna rod in a vise and drive
the brass terminal down onto the stub.
When mounting this antenna, keep in mind that supporting
the whole thing on a skin area surrounding a 7/8" hole is
too much load on the material. A .06 or better doubler
should cover at least 4-6 square inches around the mounting
hole. Before installing the doubler on the skin, drill a
countersunk hole for a 6-32 or 8-32 flat head screw as close
to antenna base as possible and with head of screw against
the underside of the aircraft skin. Rivet the doubler to
the skin with generous sprinkling of flush rivets.
When the antenna is mounted, attach RG-58 coax center
conductor to antenna rod and shield braid to the ground
stud provided on the doubler. Use an SWR bridge or antenna
analyzer to measure the antenna's characteristics at
125 MHz. Use Dremmel with cut-off wheel to score the
antenna rod all around and then snap it off. When the
optimum length is achieved, use the hand grinder to
smooth and round the tip of the antenna rod.
Optimum performance dictates that the antenna be mounted
in a vertical plane. One respondant to this thread talked
about using "wingtip" antennas for comm . . . it was an
RV'er I think. I'm wondering if he is considering the
gamma-matched, monopoles offered by Bob Archer and described
in a variety of kit-type newsletters. Be advised that these
antennas are suitable only for vhf navigation (omni) because
they are horizontally polarized.
Another respondant suggested that amateur radio 2-meter
antennas may be cut down to a length compatable with VHF
comm operation. He did speak to the existance of "coils
and matching circuits" in the base but seemed to offer the
notion that an SWR meter doesn't lie when you trim the
aforementioned antenna to the length required to lower
the SWR at the frequency of interest.
Be advised that 2-meter (144-148 MHz) ham antennas are
generally 5/8 wavelength at the frequency of interest
and require a matching network in the base that really
clobbers the antenna's overall performance when trimmed
to operate in the 118-135 range. If you are considering
such a modification, take steps to bypass or remove any such
matching hardware before trimming. Just because the SWR can
be lowered to some satisfactory value doesn't make the antenna
work. A 50 ohm resistor has an SWR of 1:1 and radiates not
at all . . . it does get hot but we're not building coffee
warmers.
Without test equipment, it's impossible to optimize an antenna
in place. Without flying the antenna with test equipment -or-
taking the installation to an antenna test range, it's impossible
to put meaningul numbers on an antenna's performance. Be cautious
of suggested designs where individuals say, "it really works great!"
Consider that 95% of your communications occurs at within 10 miles
of the other station. A wet string hung out the window might be
said to "work great". The load it presents to your transmitter,
and the efficiency at which it covers the azimuth around your
ship with readable signals are all non-quantified in "works
great" evaluations. Further, you'll never know about the signals
you DIDN'T hear because of their position in some deep null of
the antenna pattern around your airplane.
If you enjoy the experimentation and have access to at least
rudimentary test equipment (I have an MFJ analyzer that I rent
out for such endeavors), then by all means go for it. If you're
trying to save money and wince at the idea of spending $50-100
for someone's production model but don't feel comfortable with
the experiment, then perhaps the purchased antenna is the better
deal . . . you can spend a LOT of time experimenting in the dark.
Be cautious also of no-name commercial offerings. Bob Archer's
antennas are well built and based on good engineering principals.
There are others with 'matching networks' and ferrite beads that
are questionable. Tiny, lumped matching networks may indeed
present a low SWR to the transmitter but they are very lossy.
Ferrite beads over the coaxial feedline to a dipole antenna
contribute so little to its performance that there's no value
in installing them.
Simply attaching the coax conductors to the center of a dipole
will produce useable peformance that is not improved by addition
of the ferrite beads.
For metal airplanes, a Dorn-Margolin or Antenna Specialist
monopole is about the best performing antenna you can build
or buy. It has a fairly generous base to spread loads, it's
been perfected over the years to provide reasonable service
life in 200 mph winds. It's electrical connection is made via
coax connector; ALL of the antenna's active length OUTSIDE
the airplane.
On composite ships, home-made or commercial monopole antennas
must have a metalic "ground plane" under them. Bob Archer has
some half-wave dipole offerings that do not require a ground plane.
My objective here is NOT to discourage experimentation -or-
to throw water on the do-it-yourself endeavor. Irrespective
of your reasons for deciding to buy or build, the outcome
can only improve if you arm yourself with knowlege. With
antennas, the devil is in the details.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>>"The -4 and -8 are capable of spinning without qualification. "
>
>Have either of the -8's gone through extensive spin testing yet? I'm
>curious if the wider fuselage makes them more RV-6-like in terms of rate?
>
>
>Alan Carroll
>RV-8 #80177 (Empenage)
Alan, I am not sure how much spin testing Van has done on the -8(s). The
wider body is not as significant as the shape of the aft fuselage. The
rounder shape of the -4 and -8 with the round transition from side to bottom
make the difference. The -6/6A also has a radius at this intersection, but
not as large and has a larger flat surface. The cone on the -8 is very
close to the -4, in fact the first -8 has a -4 cone. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. John Anderson" <john(at)mail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AM/FM antenna |
I have no idea why I received this mail.
John Anderson
john(at)mail.com
aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << What setup are people using for an AM/FM antenna? I certainly don't want
> a
> 35" whip antenna on the outside of my airframe, but considering the far more
> suitable operating environment, I would think you could get away with a much
> shorter antenna. Ideas? >>
>
> Ed-
>
> Jim Weir of RST told me once that just about anything will work better than
> you need it to for AM/FM reception in the air. You can run RG-58 to the
> outboard rib terminating with a crimp type BNC female bulkhead connector.
> Use any old 30"-31" length of wire draped into the fiberglass wing tip
> connected to the center of a BNC male connector. Then, a little soft music
> and... mate them.
>
> As an alternative without the sex (or the soft music), just run RG-58 out to
> the wing tip and strip the last 30" or so of the jacket and shield off
> (leaving just the insulated center conductor). You might cover the cut end
> to eliminate the possibility that it might short out against any exposed
> grounded metal.
>
> -GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealing (fuel level sender) |
I recieved my Stewart Warner fuel level senders from Van's about a month
ago. These are the new type with the resister (thick foil film) printed on a
circuit board. The box states that these units will last up to 15 times
longer than wire-wound senders.
L. Adamson RV6A (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Battery installations |
//I'm using a HDPE (high density polyethylene) tray with a simple woven
//nylon tie down strap and 16 plastic ties to hold it to the steel in the
//fuselage. I don't have to put mine very far back but it is on the wall
//just aft of the baggage compartment (not a Kitfox though). I bought the
//battery tray and the ratcheting nylon strapping at Eagle Hardware for a
//little over $6.
When strapping a battery into the airplane . . . especially when it's
BEHIND you, make sure that the attaching methodology -AND- the structure
you attach are good for at least 10 times the weight of the battery
or about 250-300 pounds. Airplanes with the battery forward are less
sensitive to this but it's good practice to minimize the number of
things that run into your body during unplanned arrivals with the
earth.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========oOOo=(_)=oOOo==========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Fuel Tank Rib Question |
Larry, My preview plans Drwg 18a call for 426's. My construction plans
Drwg 18 call for 470's. I can see no reason to use the 426's.You'll want
to rivet the skin before the T-405 angle or it will be hard to get at
the skin rivets around the leading edge.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
Fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>
>
>
> Excellent post on aorbatics by Bill Benedict. But
>you made no mention of how the 3 spins. Care to comment?
>
>Cheryl Sanchez
If I knew, I would comment. Van has never commented (that I can remember)
on the characteristics of the -3, however if it had an unusual
characteristic, he would have indicated it. The only thing that he
comments about the -3, is that it is the most enjoyable of his fleet to
fly. However, he has a -3, but is hanging in the rafters. The engine
developed cracks in the heads and being as practical as Van is, he removed
the engine and hung it up. It is not a good plane for demo flights!
There is a book entitled (I think the title is) "The Anatomy of a Spin"
where the spin is analyzed and the Grumman is cited several times as an
aircraft that you do not want to spin because of the design of the cone.
The RV-3 is a conventional design in this area, and I am sure that it spins
like a -4. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Fuel Tank Rib Question |
Lawrence J. Greeno wrote:
>
> Plan #18a shows the fuel tank construction for the RV6A. Both the root
> and outboard rib tips have the addition of a small reinforcement piece
> which is riveted on with AN426 rivets. It seems logical that the flush
> side of these rivets should be on the outside of the tank, since I can
> see no use for the flush side inside the tank. However, I see no
> apparent reason for them being on the outside. A brief word on this will
> be much appreciated. I've checked every plan sheet with this part on it,
> and the photos in the binder, and see no apparent reason for their being
> flush rivets. Thanks much for a reply.
The callout you mention is for the inboard end, actually the angle piece
that attaches the wing tank to the fuselage. It is thick enough to
countersink for flush rivets. At the outboard end, you would have to
dimple. I had the old plans with sheet 18 as well, which do not have
the tip reinforcements and call for AN470 rivets for the attach angle.
I decided to use them at both ends, and have not seen a fit problem.
Perhaps someone from Van's could comment on the reason for the change.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
Drawing #21 at top refers the builder to "SK 46-53" for more info on
wing skin details. My prepunched RV6A manual has only SK #46.
Numbers 47 thru 53 are in the fuselage section and definitely do not
relate to wing skins. Can somebody tell me what gives here? Thanks.
Jim Hurd RV6A Wings in the jig hurd(at)riolink.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Primer Fittings... |
Fellow RVrs...
My mid-time Lyc O360 is missing 2 of the primer fittings that srcew into
the top of the cylinder. These are the little jobs that have a goofy
1/8th tube fitting one side that has a small tapered brass bead that
slips over the tube and is then sandwiched between the fitting and the screw
on 'cap'. On the other end of the fitting there is there is a 1/8" pipe
thread with a 1" long mandrel that sticks into the cylinder head. In the
mandrel are two very small holes (maybe 1/32") that allows the fuel to flow
into the head. With that said, I have some questions that I hope you-all
can answer:
1) What is the part number for these?
2) Are these Lycoming or AN parts?
3) What is a good source for these babys?
4) Can I just use a 1/8" flared tube to 1/8" pipe fitting
instead of this special fitting?
5) Depending on the answer to question #4 above, what type of
fitting should I use to obtain the manifold pressure?
Cylinder #3's primer hole is a good place to pick up the
manifold pressure, right?
Instead of bringing the fuel into the cockpit for the traditional
primer pump, I have opted to keep that mess off of my feet and legs and got
thi nifty little electric valve that is in the ACS catalog. My plan is to
run a 1/8" tube from the top of the gascolator to the electric valve, and
then from the electric valve via 1/8" tubing array to the primer fittings.
My question is this; will the pressure from the boost pump (standard Van's
issue Facet job) be enough through the top port in the gascolator to get
fuel through the primer lines?
Finally, does it seem like a good idea to put a bulkhead AN fitting in the
firewall for the fuel line? A bushing alone just seems like a bad idea.
Thanks for all the help,
Matt Dralle
RV-4
N442RV (reserved)
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Fuel Tank Rib Question |
I was unable to find Plan 18A on my old set of plans but I think the area
you are referring to is the same area that you will be riveting the forward
attach angle to on the root end of the tank. That area should have flush
rivets on the outside. I can't think of any reason to use flush rivets on
the other end of the tank.
John
>
>Plan #18a shows the fuel tank construction for the RV6A. Both the root
>and outboard rib tips have the addition of a small reinforcement piece
>which is riveted on with AN426 rivets. It seems logical that the flush
>side of these rivets should be on the outside of the tank, since I can
>see no use for the flush side inside the tank. However, I see no
>apparent reason for them being on the outside. A brief word on this will
>be much appreciated. I've checked every plan sheet with this part on it,
>and the photos in the binder, and see no apparent reason for their being
>flush rivets. Thanks much for a reply.
>
>Larry Greeno, VP for Planned Giving, Roberts Wesleyan College,
>2301 Westside Dr.,Rochester, NY PH:716-594-6401
>greenrv(at)juno.com or greenol(at)roberts.edu
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vapor Lock ... In search of assistance |
In my RV6A with O360 I use AV gas in hot weather ( AV gas in one tank for TO
& Lndg and auto gas in other tank for cruise. I installed the fuel vapor
return line limilar to your friends. I tee off the fuel line right at the
carburetor for my primer line and also the vapor return line (.030 orifice)
and run this back to cabin between fuel selector and elec. boost pump and
have a shut off valve in it so I can shut it off in cruise and not mess up my
fuel flow meter. This has worked well for me. The return line gets fery hot
to the touch so you know that fuel is hot! As Van suggests it would probably
be better to run it all the way back into the tank - presents a more
complicated plumbing job. Good luck!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Fittings... |
>
>
>Fellow RVrs...
>
>My mid-time Lyc O360 is missing 2 of the primer fittings that srcew into
>the top of the cylinder. These are the little jobs that have a goofy
>1/8th tube fitting one side that has a small tapered brass bead that
>slips over the tube and is then sandwiched between the fitting and the screw
>on 'cap'. On the other end of the fitting there is there is a 1/8" pipe
>thread with a 1" long mandrel that sticks into the cylinder head. In the
>mandrel are two very small holes (maybe 1/32") that allows the fuel to flow
>into the head. With that said, I have some questions that I hope you-all
>can answer:
First, you only need one or two primer fittings. Two cylinders are easily
enough to start the engine. Lots of people don't even use a primer.
>
> 1) What is the part number for these?
>
> 2) Are these Lycoming or AN parts?
>
> 3) What is a good source for these babys?
>
> 4) Can I just use a 1/8" flared tube to 1/8" pipe fitting
> instead of this special fitting?
>
> 5) Depending on the answer to question #4 above, what type of
> fitting should I use to obtain the manifold pressure?
> Cylinder #3's primer hole is a good place to pick up the
> manifold pressure, right?
>
Virtually any 1/8" fitting will do for the manifold pressure. You don't
have to restrict it like the primer fitting. Cylinder #3 will do fine.
>Instead of bringing the fuel into the cockpit for the traditional
>primer pump, I have opted to keep that mess off of my feet and legs and got
>thi nifty little electric valve that is in the ACS catalog. My plan is to
>run a 1/8" tube from the top of the gascolator to the electric valve, and
>then from the electric valve via 1/8" tubing array to the primer fittings.
>My question is this; will the pressure from the boost pump (standard Van's
>issue Facet job) be enough through the top port in the gascolator to get
>fuel through the primer lines?
>
I prime two cylinders using a setup exactly as you have described. There's
plenty of pressure to prime the cylinders. In fact, you only want to push
the contact switch for the primer solenoid for about 1/4 to 1/2 second;
you'll have plenty of prime.
One note. I wired the solenoid so that it could only be energized when the
boost pump was on (took the hot lead for the solenoid contact switch 'after'
the boost pump switch). My reasoning was that I would only need the
solenoid open when the boost pump was on anyway and this way there is no
chance that the solenoid could become energized inadvertantly. I'm not sure
if it would cause any real problem if it was energized but, hey, it seemed
safer to me.
>Finally, does it seem like a good idea to put a bulkhead AN fitting in the
>firewall for the fuel line? A bushing alone just seems like a bad idea.
>
I like the idea of the bulkhead fitting. Granted, you create two new
possibilitys of leakage but I really don't like the idea of the fuel line
chafing through at the firewall.k
>Thanks for all the help,
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-4
>N442RV (reserved)
>
>
>
>--
>
>Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Phillips <billphil(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | How much is a Used KLN-88 LORAN worth? |
A friend of mine has just taken a KLN-88 LORAN out of his panel. It=92s
the one with the green CRT and moving map. Does anyone know if it=92s
worth anything and if so how much it=92s worth. I think it's about 5 to 1=
0
years old but I don't know. I understand that LORAN is going to be
shut down in about 3 years so it might not be worth much. Any ideas?
Bill PHillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Sport Aviation Aerodynamics |
Yesterday I was driving past the Sacramento Executive airport and happened
to see an open hanger with two RV-6A's in view. Being a shy type I barged
right in and being RV'rs they were most cordial about it. I mentioned that
I had just seen the article in Sport Aviation about the aerodynamics study
of an RV-6 and asked if they'd read it. "Well, yes.........The airplane
that was the subject of the study is right behind you." Duuuuuuuuhhhh.
Yeah, I really read the article closely.
It's a shame that the article did not have a photo of the aircraft that
they modified because it is beautiful! The wing tips are kinda funky with
a flip-up of about 45 degrees to a sharp outer edge but the convex fillet
at the wing root definately looks well thought out. The most interesting
aspect though, was the cowl. Two, five inch circular cooling inlets with
rubber sleeves to connect them to an internal plenum whose top is a
close-fitting carbon fiber deck. The air inlet is much just barely below
the spinner and clears the prop by less than two inches. Inside the
intake is the spinner off a model airplane that directs air flow into a
plenum surrounding a conical airfilter. Access to the dip stick is through
a neat little door that is hinged inward and held shut with a magnet.
This is one neat airplane.
The best part is that he's going to be selling the cowls to any and all
comers! I was told that more info is available through the internet site
at Barnard.com but I've not been able to link up to it. If you happen to
spot it, please post the location.
Cheers
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: AM/FM antenna |
/What setup are people using for an AM/FM antenna? I certainly don't want
/35" whip antenna on the outside of my airframe, but considering the far more
/suitable operating environment, I would think you could get away with a much
/shorter antenna. Ideas?
. . . . You can run RG-58 to the
//outboard rib terminating with a crimp type BNC female bulkhead connector.
//Use any old 30"-31" length of wire draped into the fiberglass wing tip
//connected to the center of a BNC male connector.
. . . . just run RG-58 out to
//the wing tip and strip the last 30" or so of the jacket and shield off
//(leaving just the insulated center conductor). You might cover the cut end
//to eliminate the possibility that it might short out against any exposed
//grounded metal.
One can certainly try this and if it functions to your satisfaction,
then why not? You should know that the input to a car radio's antenna
jack is NOT characterized for 50 Ohm coax like RG-58. In a recently
published article, I mentioned that if you cut open the cable supplied
with an automobile am/fm antenna, you'd find that the center conductor
is MUCH smaller with respect to the inside diameter of the braid than
you'll find with communications coaxes like RG-58. RG-58 has a capacitance
of about 30 pF per foot, the wire I just took off the Radio Shack antenna
measures about 12 pF per foot.
The input to a car radio is charactized for a very inefficient antenna
at the frequency of interest. It's so far from the ideal 1/4 wave value
that it becomes little more than a short probe which MUST operate into
a very high impedance receiver connection. This is why am radios for
cars have an "antenna trimmer" capacitor available from the outside
and a sticker that suggests what frequency it should be adjusted for
optimum reception. A 15 foot piece of RG-18 would have a capacitance
on the order of 400-450 pF . . . . MUCH higher than any ordinary
radio expects to see.
So, if you find that the suggested installations perform poorly, work
toward (1) reduction of the length of feedline and (2) use automotive
antenna cable assemblies if possible. None the less, the
31" whip is a MUCH better f.m. antenna at 100 MHz than the same antenna
is for a.m. at 1 MHz. If you don't care about the a.m. reception, then
I suspect that RG-58 will be okay. If the 31" wire is not standing away
from structure of the airplane, it might work better if shortened. A
look at it with an antenna analyzer would help you adjust it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>> I'll be there too. We on the list must come up with a way to
>identify fellow listers at shows...at sun'n'fun this year I probably
walked
>by a few but unfortunately did not meet any.
>How about some sort of hat or shirt emblem of an RV with a list (tilt)
>to it.
Maybe someone on the list with some artistic inclination could design a
small decal that could go in a specific spot on the airplane - and a
similar pin for hats, etc.
Ed Bundy RV6A N427EM
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
| Subject: | empenage dimpling |
Hi Guys,
I was hoping someone could answer a dimpling tool question. I am
preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer
(HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new Avery tool
#1001 will not work to do this. I think I am going to have to purchase
the vise grip dimpling tool to do this. My question is: Is this the correct
tool? Or the only tool? or is there another way. Signed, a beginner.
cgn(at)pond.net
Craig G. Nelson
Eugene, OR
building RV-6 empenage
wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
Date: Sun, 11 May 97 18:54:53 PDT
From: cgn
Subject: empenage dimpling
Hi Guys,
I was hoping someone could answer a dimpling tool question. I am
preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer
(HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new Avery tool
#1001 will not work to do this. I think I am going to have to purchase
the vise grip dimpling tool to do this. My question is: Is this the correct
tool? Or the only tool? or is there another way. Signed, a beginner.
cgn(at)pond.net
Craig G. Nelson
Eugene, OR
building RV-6 empenage
wings on order
cgn(at)pond.net
Craig G. Nelson
Eugene, OR
building RV-6 empenage
wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3-bladed props |
<3375FE14.295E(at)digital.net>
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
Aha, you are assuming that the effect of a propeller blade passing
through the air is restricted to just the actual path of the blade! Not
so. Have you ever seen photographs of air-to-air refueling in progress?
Note that the receiver is always at a significantly higher angle of
attack than the tanker, even when they are the same aircraft type. Both
airplanes are obviously traveling at the same speed. The receiver is
flying in the downwash generated by the tanker, even though the receiver
is at a lower altitude and not flying in precisely the same flight path.
Empirical testing of propellers (at least the data I saw some ten years
ago in aero classes) does show decreased propulsive efficiency as the
number of propeller blades increases.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Assuming a velocity of 150 mph, 2,700 rmp and a 3 blade prop; at 15
>inches out from center, the blade turns 1/3 revolution in app. 1/15 of
>a
>second and moves 31 inches in the plane of rotation, and forward in
>the
>direction of flight 176 inches; no wake, but I could be wrong.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator to Starter Structural Link |
Is anyone aware of the need for a steel compression link installed between
the Alternator mounting (pivot) bolt and the threaded lug on the right side
of the starter (electrosystems, Sky-tec and others)?
I have been told by someone, whose opinion I repect, that this provides
additional strength to prevent the weight of large (high mass) alternators
from breaking the mounting boss off the crankcase during repeated hard
landings. I have seen no info concerning this attachment in any homebuilder
literature and would appreciate any knowledgable responses. Is this link an
item that I must fabricate or is it available "off the shelf"? Are these
used on sp** cans?
I'm going to call B&C tomorrow to ask them as well.
Regards,
Gary VanRemortel
(RV-6A all panel items installed, next week front roll bar and windscreen)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
There are at least five ways to dimple and you will have to use them all
before you are through. I found the Avery vise grip dimpler to be a very
useful tool... But there may be better things out there now.
About to fly #1 flt. (After five + years)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
Craig,
This was very close to problem #1 as I remember.
You can grind the side of one of your dimple dies (don't think about it,
just do it) to get better access. You can think carefully about where you
put holes (may not apply to pre-drilled kits). You can countersink if there
is enough metal.
One technique that I found helpful in various places was to get the
Pop-rivet dimple die set from Avery's and grind this down viciously (almost
to the edge of the dimple). These dies do a very ordinary job but after you
have used them you can "touch up" the dimple with your countersink which
will now remove very little metal but leave a nice recess for the skin
dimple to sit in.
It is worth having a good think about all the various techniques because you
will be using all of them in the next few years.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>I was hoping someone could answer a dimpling tool question. I am
>preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer
>(HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new Avery tool
>#1001 will not work to do this. I think I am going to have to purchase
>the vise grip dimpling tool to do this. My question is: Is this the correct
>tool? Or the only tool? or is there another way. Signed, a beginner.
>cgn(at)pond.net
>Craig G. Nelson
>Eugene, OR
>building RV-6 empenage
>wings on order
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Aviation Aerodynamics |
>
>Yesterday I was driving past the Sacramento Executive airport and happened
>to see an open hanger with two RV-6A's in view. Being a shy type I barged
>right in and being RV'rs they were most cordial about it. I mentioned that
>I had just seen the article in Sport Aviation about the aerodynamics study
>of an RV-6 and asked if they'd read it. "Well, yes.........The airplane
>that was the subject of the study is right behind you." Duuuuuuuuhhhh.
>Yeah, I really read the article closely.
>
>It's a shame that the article did not have a photo of the aircraft that
>they modified because it is beautiful! The wing tips are kinda funky with
>a flip-up of about 45 degrees to a sharp outer edge but the convex fillet
>at the wing root definately looks well thought out. The most interesting
>aspect though, was the cowl. Two, five inch circular cooling inlets with
>rubber sleeves to connect them to an internal plenum whose top is a
>close-fitting carbon fiber deck. The air inlet is much just barely below
>the spinner and clears the prop by less than two inches. Inside the
>intake is the spinner off a model airplane that directs air flow into a
>plenum surrounding a conical airfilter. Access to the dip stick is through
>a neat little door that is hinged inward and held shut with a magnet.
>
>This is one neat airplane.
>
>The best part is that he's going to be selling the cowls to any and all
>comers! I was told that more info is available through the internet site
>at Barnard.com but I've not been able to link up to it. If you happen to
>spot it, please post the location.
>
>Cheers
>
>Bob Fritz
>
>
Bob, Check Van's Homepage for a hot link to Steve Barnard's homepage.
Probably the
Yeller pages also. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
z>
>I was hoping someone could answer a dimpling tool question. I am
>preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer
>(HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new Avery tool
>#1001 will not work to do this.
Well spotted! I commented on this to Avery's almost a year ago, but they
haven't seen fit to upgrade their toolkit. Like you I guess, I was not
happy to find that having spent a large sum on an "RV Starter Toolkit" I
needed to purchase yet another tool to do the second task in the project
:-(. It was just the first of several frustrations; accept it, and get on
with building. (In case anyone gets down on me for badmouthing Avery's:
they're a fine company to deal with, and I'd recommend them to anyone [and
no, Avery's don't pay me anything]:)
Point your browser at http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny1.htm for lots of
IMHO handy hints on empennage building.
>I think I am going to have to purchase
>the vise grip dimpling tool to do this. My question is: Is this the correct
>tool? Or the only tool? or is there another way. Signed, a beginner.
FWIW, I recommend you buy both a set of hand-squeezers and a vice-grip
dimpler. Here's my experience:
I made a vice-grip dimpling tool (you'll need a source of quality tool
steel for the dimples, a lathe, and welding equipment, or friends with
these). The results were adequate but not great. Later in the year, I
bought hand squeezers from Avery's to squeeze the 3/32" skin rivets... a
bonus is that the dimple dies that came with your C-frame tool also fit in
them. The dimples produced are better, and the hand squeezers are much
easier to use than the vice-grip dimplers (less muscle-power needed). For
tight spots (eg near the TE of control surface ribs) I still need the
vice-grip dimplers. You might want to consider vice-grip squeezers with
mounts to use the C-frame dimple dies (they're in Avery's latest catalogue)
instead of a dedicated vice-grip dimpler.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AM/FM antenna |
<< None the less, the 31" whip is a MUCH better FM antenna at 100 MHz than
the
same antenna is for AM at 1 MHz. If you don't care about the AM reception,
then I suspect that RG-58 will be okay. >>
Bob-
I never listen to Rush Limbaugh while flying anyway, so it is an
infinitesimal sacrifice that I am quite willing to make.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
Hi again,
Thanks for all the advise on my tool selection for dimpling. I will choose
the hand squeezer method, as I will need this tool anyway. Guess I will
be calling Averys in the morning. There going to get to know who I am
this month.
cgn(at)pond.net
Craig G. Nelson
Eugene, OR
building RV-6 empenage
wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
Craig Nelson wrote:
>
>
> Date: Sun, 11 May 97 18:54:53 PDT
> From: cgn
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: empenage dimpling
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I was hoping someone could answer a dimpling tool question. I am
> preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer
> (HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new Avery tool
> #1001 will not work to do this. I think I am going to have to purchase
> the vise grip dimpling tool to do this. My question is: Is this the correct
> tool? Or the only tool? or is there another way. Signed, a beginner.
> cgn(at)pond.net
> Craig G. Nelson
> Eugene, OR
> building RV-6 empenage
> wings on order
>
> cgn(at)pond.net
> Craig G. Nelson
> Eugene, OR
> building RV-6 empenage
> wings on order
Craig, I assume you are trying to dimple the spar flange itself. You
should look at a countersink tool for this area. You will need this in
many areas in the future as well.
Good luck
RV6A - wings in progress
--
Rick Osgood
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | air1kmo(at)air.ups.com (Kevin O'hara) |
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction Pictures |
I am still getting a blank page when I call up you web site.
K. O'Hara
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator to Starter Structural Link |
I can tell you the IO-360 I just purchased for my 8 has the link you
describedand it is a standard Lycoming part. I can also tell you I did not
use one on my 6's O-320 and have already broken one standard Lycoming
alternator boss mount (a very crude bracket). I am uncertain what actually
caused this failure. I now have about 300 hours on the replacement with no
problem.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | ACK ELT installation |
I am getting ready to install the above referenced ELT in my -4. The
external antenna is a 1/4 wave antenna with a coiled element that is about
15" tall and looks like it would be bent 90 degrees to the slipstream at
cruise. It is ugly, too.
Questions:
1) Where did anyone who has installed such an ELT install:
A - the main unit?
B - the indicator panel?
C - the antenna?
2) Did you use the extenal antenna that came with the unit or another type?
If you used another type waht brand? sources?, cost?.
Any info the list might have on installing ELTs such as these is
appreciated. They are high on the list of worthless items mandated by an
ever encroaching govt. IMHO. If you are't subject to FAA jurisdiction
please ignore this post.
Richard E. Bibb Direct: 301-571-2507
Vice President, Federal Operations Main: 301-564-4404
Fore Systems Federal, Inc. FAX: 301-564-4408
6905 Rockledge Drive, #800 Pager: 800-719-1246
Bethesda, MD 20817 www.fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL" |
>
>barnardaircraft wrote:
>>
>>
>> This new cowling recently developed is sleeker, sexier, has
better curves
>
>Can the finish kit be ordered without the factory cowl, if you cowling
>is to be used? How does the price compare to the factory piece?
Hi Larry,
When you order the finish kit for your airplane all you need to do is
request a deletion of the cowling upper and lower halves and upper cowling
inserts that Van's supplies. Retain all hinges required from Van's. It is
highly recommended you do so in writing to Van's. The current price
reduction from Van's on deleting the cowling, inserts and airscoop is
around $500.00 but please verify this amount with them. The B.A.C. cowling
has premolded induction and cooling air exits for less fiberglass work
later. There are 3 machined aluminum laminar flow inlet rings, 2 for
cooling air and 1 smaller one for induction air which are flow matched to
the cowling. The cost of the above from B.A.C is $925.00 + shipping and
handling. The cowling fits very well with little or no finish work
required and comes gel-coated white.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction |
Pictures
>Return-Path: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
>Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 08:04:58 -0400
>From: air.ups.com!air1kmo(at)matronics.com (Kevin O'hara)
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: *** New RV6A Web Site - Lots Of RV Construction
Pictures
>X-Sun-Charset: US-ASCII
>Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>I am still getting a blank page when I call up you web site.
>
>K. O'Hara
>
>Unable to get zenith builders page at matronics - - ME TOO!
Bruce
snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Message from Internet |
Craig, the squeezer is definately an invaluable tool for dimpling. I
don't have the "vice grip" dimpler and during my construction of the HS I
haven't needed it. I ordered the 3" yolk with my initial order and it's
worked great but does tend to flex a little with squeezing 1/8" rivets. I
recently ordered the 1 1/2" yolk and it's much better. The "C-Frame" tool
should also allow you to dimple the spar where the flange strips are
countersunk and need to attach. I've used the squeezer to do all the
dimpling on my HS and VS so far. Obviously the C-Frame tool will be needed
to dimple the skins.
>>I was hoping someone could answer a dimpling tool question. I am
>>preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer
>>(HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new Avery tool
>>#1001 will not work to do this. I think I am going to have to purchase
>>the vise grip dimpling tool to do this. My question is: Is this the
correct
>>tool? Or the only tool? or is there another way. Signed, a beginner.
>>cgn(at)pond.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
>
> How about some sort of hat or shirt emblem of an RV with a list (tilt)
> to it.
I have seen several suggestions about this, and I am considering doing
something about it. It would probably be a hat of some type. But I
need to get an idea how many people would be seriously interested. Of
course I realize that until you see the thing it's hard to tell if you'd
want it or not, but I would like to get an idea just how much interest
there might be.
I don't much care for the nylon hats that have screened on lettering, I
would probably go for a good quality wool or cotton-twill hat with
emblem embroidered on. Cost for such a thing would likely be $12-14.
Would listers please send a -->> PRIVATE <<-- email to me, and let me
know if you
A) love the idea, would buy one no matter what it looks like
B) might get one if it's neat
C) will laugh when you see some geek wearing one at a fly-in
Design suggestions would be welcome as well.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | I goofed - tolerances - My HS is too far to right |
I isn't much. In attaching the horizontal stabilizer, I worried about getting
it
nice and level and drilling holes snug with #12, dead center on steel straps.
But in the process, it moved to the right 3/16 inch.
I could probably ignore it and consider it as within limits. Oddly, there are
only a few tolerances shown on the plans.
Or I could fix it with a patch. My favorite idea is to fill the four holes in
the bars that are riveted to the HS with segments of AN bolt, swedged and staked
in followed by new holes immediately next to them. I'd then use a larger washer
to ensure that the fillers remained in place.
Another option would be to double either these or the verticals.
What do you all think?
Hal Kempthorne Emergency pager 510.840.6207
Senior Alliance Engineer Regular phone & pager 415.943.8358
Sybase, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Angle Of Attack Instrument |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
Rob Acker posted a note on an Angle of Attack instrument which I
followed up on with the maker, Elbie Mendenhall. A lot of others must
have too, because I got an email from Elbie asking me to post the
following on the list.
My Summary - He has received many queries and he will reply, but he has
to go out of town on a 767 training course. He plans to consult with
Van and others on a mounting location for RVs that offers accuracy and
protection for the device. He is working on a smaller display for those
with limited panel space. He makes his vanes conservatively large to
ensure real world accuracy.
ron.taborek(at)flight642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator to Starter Structural Link |
| From: | ron.taborek(at)flight642.com (RON TABOREK) |
When I was at Sun'n'Fun I asked Bill Bainbridge, President of B and C
Specialty, about the desirability of such a link. He said it
could be useful, but he did caution me that if I did so, to use shims to
ensure that there were no bending stresses on the link or the
alternator mount.
ron.taborek(at)fligt642.com RV-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
-> Is anyone aware of the need for a steel compression link installed
-> between the Alternator mounting (pivot) bolt and the threaded lug on
-> the right side of the starter (electrosystems, Sky-tec and others)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
Exactly how does one do this? I assume that prop shops have some sort of
machine analogous to an automobile tire balancing machine but am curious
just how these devices work. Also, if anyone has a short answer on how to
best do this please advise. I am talking specifically about a wooden prop
in my case.
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Herndon, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
>
>Steve Barnard wrote:
>
>The B.A.C. "Holy cowl" was designed around an extended hub propeller
for better aerodynamics due to the longer nose. It also adds length to
the cooling inlets before the air gets to the plenum for better ram
recovery. I.E., much better cooling.
This also enabled a longer intake box for better ram recovery on induction
air. Most factory airplanes have a loss of 2 to 3 inches of manifold
pressure due to poorly designed airboxes. We have obtained 1" over ambient
at cruise
settings. What this equates to is better power at all flight
conditions. All this with ram-filtered air. We are filtering air 100%
of the time.
I think the 200 hp fuel injected Lycoming with 1 electronic ignition
combined with the new cowling and cooling plenum to be the most
efficient & economical as far a speed and fuel burn are concerned that
one can put in an RV-series plane. I'm sure I'll pick up some flak on
that one.
If your looking to improve on a great airplane this is one way to do
it. If you want good looks, speed and efficiency or just want
something different on your RV this may be what your looking for.
Jerry's reply
>Most RV-6's that I am familiar with do not have a cooling problem, in
>fact all the ones here at the Hillsboro airport run to cold (150-160
>deg.oil temp) or at least at optimum temps of 180-190 deg.
>
>In one of your earlier post you said that the 200 hp would increase
>the speed of a RV-6 by 20-25 mph over a 180 hp, are you saying you
>can cruise at 230 mph and burn less fuel? (based on my O-360 at
>altitude full throttle and TAS of 206 mph) At what power settings are
>you running your IO-360 to achieve this? What is your fuel burn? What
>do all of your options weigh? What are you using as a gross weight?
>
>I think the design as Van's designed it is fine as is and when I see
>claims that exceed the design limits of the airplane I have to
>question Why?
Steve's reply
Jerry you have just convinced me thru your own words that RV's have too
much cooling. What this equates to is excess drag. You do not have an
optimized system. Is it perfect no? Does it work, yes. Cessna 150's and
Piper Cherokee systems work also, but does that necessarily make them
efficient? There is a large difference in speed between those airplanes
and RV's. The faster an airplane goes the smaller the inlets can be. We
have addressed this issue in the B.A.C "holy cowl". We have reduced the
cooling area inlets by 40% over stock configuration, yet I can still keep a
200 hp engine cool both in oil temperature and cylinder head temperatures.
Reducing the inlets this much decreases the amount of drag due to less
cooling air spilling over the outside of the cowling. You are getting
reverse flow out of the cowling with the stock inlets.
In reference to my quote on increasing the speed 20-25 mph by installing
200 hp has been taken out of context. If you read it carefully you will
notice that there we're other changes as well. Increasing engine power by
20H.P. in an RV will get you approximately 6 or 7 mph. There was also a
change from 180hp-wood prop to a 200 hp engine and constant speed. We
conducted a very accurate flight test last weekend with the following data.
Conditions:8500 ft. density, full throttle,2700 rpm, fuel flow 11.5 gph
with a true airspeed of 218 mph,(IAS of 195 mph)over a specified course.
There we're no special preparations on the airplane. I cruise at full
throttle 2450 rpm at 10,500 ft and burn 8 gph at a true airspeed of 205
mph. Now keep in mind this is an RV-6A nosedragger. These are honest
numbers. This was a true 75% power run.
I'm curious what other RV's weigh empty. Could we get a little response
back from the readers. List engine, propeller and type.
I think it's important that the individual building an RV consider the
aspects of the design in it's entirety and be comfortable with that
decision to own one.
The question as to why this was done is simple? Let's see how many of us
fit this category:
I just had to put a slick tire on my Schwinn stingray
The 57 Chevy Belair just begged for a four barrel and headers-don't forget
the glasspacks-the hood scoop just looks great
I wanted the red flames because it looked cool.
I really like that added horsepower for the high airports on a hot day.
As long as man has been around we all look to improve things. Need we ask
why? This is what we call progress. And if the RV can't be improved upon
I'll eat your hat.
Does Jerry have a bone stock, built to prints, airplane, come on Jerry you
changed something you did'nt like, did'nt you?
As far as exceeding mfg's design limits beg the question: How is VNE
(never exceed speed)established according to the FAR's? This is a question
you need to ask Dick Vangrunsven and ask for more clarification.
Hope everyone enjoys the interchange of ideas and information-no opinions here.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL" |
>
>>
>> ...big expensive decisions are made.
>
>What's the cost?
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
>
Hi Rob,
The B.A.C. "Holy cowl" consists of upper and lower halves. The lower half
has a integral induction air scoop and cooling air exit as part of the
cowling. No need to mold on the scoop later. The kit also has 3 machined
aluminum laminar flow inlet rings that are flow matched to the front end of
the fiberglass cowling. The cowling has been white gel-coated for minimal
preparation before painting. There are no changes necessary or differences
to cowling installation over the stock cowling. The cost for the above is
$925.00 + shipping and handling. Good luck with your airplane.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RUSS_NICHOLS(at)fire.ca.gov (RUSS NICHOLS) |
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
Craig,
A couple of suggestions... If you are having a tough time dimpling
this area with the squeezer, you'll probably have a tough time setting
the rivets as well. Watch your edge distance, but don't put the holes
too close to the spar web or the HS-409 reinforcements.
The other tools I suggest:
Pop-rivet dimple die. I know Avery sells them and Cleveland probably
does, too. You'll need something like this if you want to dimple the
holes closest to the trailing edge bend of the control surfaces.
Avery and Cleveland sell dies with 1 side ground off (if you don't
want to grind down your only set). At some point, you WILL need to
get into a tight space. (Sounds like you are there now.) I also
ground the front off one of my squeezer yokes in order to get into
tighter spots.
I don't own the vice grip dimpler. Haven't missed it yet. There are
lots of ways to accomplish the same thing and most don't cost as much
as a specialized tool you use only a few times.
Good luck,
Russ Nichols
RV-6 (just 1/2 the rivets to go....)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Date: 5/11/97 6:54 PM
I am preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal
stabilizer (HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new
Avery tool #1001 will not work to do this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 Firewall Recess |
Hi,
I am building a RV-6 with a O-360-A1A engine. I will be installing a
spin on oil filter.
When installing the firewall recess, does the angled end face up or
down?
(I seem to be missing the instruction information for the recess kit)
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO360,IVOPROP on RV6 |
| From: | Janet Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
I would like to talk to any pilots flying a RV6 with an IO360 or an
Ivoprop Magnum. I got an IO360 from The Mod Shop in Florida so the engine
decision is made now. I am wondering about battery location and empty
weight on finished airplanes. Are there any Hoffman or MT props on an RV
? Thanks for any leads.
Paul Lein
6a,starting the finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealing |
> How can one tell if they have the new type fuel level units? How long has
> Van been using the newer types?
It's been at least a year, maybe two.
On the new ones, the "pot" is made of white plastic. The old ones were
all metal. Also the old ones used a black foam float, the new ones have
a copper float. The new ones have a detatchable float arm, on the old
ones it was not detatchable. The new ones come with a nice drawing
(van's) showing how to bend the float arm, etc.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL" |
On an invoice dated 2/19/97 I was credited $319.02 for the cowl upper, lower,
and two inlet pieces. I believe the scoop is another $61.00, but I didn't get
a credit on it, yet.
Les Williams/RV-6AQB/N24LW (reserved) Starting finish kit in two weeks!
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of barnardaircraft
Sent: Monday, May 12, 1997 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: B.A.C. new "HOLY COWL"
>
>barnardaircraft wrote:
>>
>>
>> This new cowling recently developed is sleeker, sexier, has
better curves
>
>Can the finish kit be ordered without the factory cowl, if you cowling
>is to be used? How does the price compare to the factory piece?
Hi Larry,
When you order the finish kit for your airplane all you need to do is
request a deletion of the cowling upper and lower halves and upper cowling
inserts that Van's supplies. Retain all hinges required from Van's. It is
highly recommended you do so in writing to Van's. The current price
reduction from Van's on deleting the cowling, inserts and airscoop is
around $500.00 but please verify this amount with them. The B.A.C. cowling
has premolded induction and cooling air exits for less fiberglass work
later. There are 3 machined aluminum laminar flow inlet rings, 2 for
cooling air and 1 smaller one for induction air which are flow matched to
the cowling. The cost of the above from B.A.C is $925.00 + shipping and
handling. The cowling fits very well with little or no finish work
required and comes gel-coated white.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I goofed - tolerances - My HS is too far to right |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
> I isn't much. In attaching the horizontal stabilizer, I worried about getting
it
> nice and level and drilling holes snug with #12, dead center on steel straps.
> But in the process, it moved to the right 3/16 inch.
>
> I could probably ignore it and consider it as within limits. Oddly, there are
> only a few tolerances shown on the plans.
>
> Or I could fix it with a patch. My favorite idea is to fill the four holes in
> the bars that are riveted to the HS with segments of AN bolt, swedged and staked
> in followed by new holes immediately next to them. I'd then use a larger washer
> to ensure that the fillers remained in place.
>
> Another option would be to double either these or the verticals.
>
> What do you all think?
>
> Hal Kempthorne Emergency pager 510.840.6207
> Senior Alliance Engineer Regular phone & pager 415.943.8358
> Sybase, Inc.
New parts are cheap. Do it right or it will haunt you forever!!
I think we've all reordered something from Van's. Have it shipped second
day are and you'll have it by Wednesday.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
I'm just curious how well the cooling works with the new cowl at lower
airspeeds. If it's optimized for top speed flying, are you gonna roast your
engine dinking around in the pattern shooting landings?
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealing |
Randall,
I suspect there may be several iterations of these. I have what you describe
but the "pot" on mine is definitely wire wound whereas I got the impression
that there is a newer version where there is a foil resistor.
Leo Davies
>
>> How can one tell if they have the new type fuel level units? How long has
>> Van been using the newer types?
>
>It's been at least a year, maybe two.
>
>On the new ones, the "pot" is made of white plastic. The old ones were
>all metal. Also the old ones used a black foam float, the new ones have
>a copper float. The new ones have a detatchable float arm, on the old
>ones it was not detatchable. The new ones come with a nice drawing
>(van's) showing how to bend the float arm, etc.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6
>randall(at)edt.com
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK ELT installation |
>
>I am getting ready to install the above referenced ELT in my -4. The
>external antenna is a 1/4 wave antenna with a coiled element that is about
>15" tall and looks like it would be bent 90 degrees to the slipstream at
>cruise. It is ugly, too.
>
>Questions:
>
>1) Where did anyone who has installed such an ELT install:
>
> A - the main unit?
I put it on the hat shelf in the baggage compartment
> B - the indicator panel?
I did not bother with the indicator unit
> C - the antenna?
I mounted it right in the baggage compartment beside the ELT and put a hole
in the top skin. The tip of the antenna is under the plexiglass. I talked to
the factory about this and he assured me that it was satisfactory. Even
better in a crash the antenna would be less likely to be removed, According
to him only the tip of the antenna transmitted any ways
>
Tom Martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | I goofed - tolerances - My HS is too far to right |
If I were going to re-locate the HS (and I would) I would double the
verticals. I might consider adding plugs of 3/16 alum. rivets in the
mis-drilled holes that would be sandwiched between the upright doublers and
the HS spar flange face.
BTW, where are the "steel straps" you referred to? The verticals are
aluminum.
Les Williams/RV-6AQB/N24LW (reserved)/starting finish kit in two weeks
-----
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Hal Kempthorne
Sent: Monday, May 12, 1997 11:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: I goofed - tolerances - My HS is too far to right
I isn't much. In attaching the horizontal stabilizer, I worried about getting
it
nice and level and drilling holes snug with #12, dead center on steel straps.
But in the process, it moved to the right 3/16 inch.
I could probably ignore it and consider it as within limits. Oddly, there are
only a few tolerances shown on the plans.
Or I could fix it with a patch. My favorite idea is to fill the four holes in
the bars that are riveted to the HS with segments of AN bolt, swedged and
staked
in followed by new holes immediately next to them. I'd then use a larger
washer
to ensure that the fillers remained in place.
Another option would be to double either these or the verticals.
What do you all think?
Hal Kempthorne Emergency pager 510.840.6207
Senior Alliance Engineer Regular phone & pager 415.943.8358
Sybase, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
I'm midway through the wings now and have gotten by with a ground down
die and a pop rivet die set. Often when you really need a close quarters
tool, the nail for the pop rivet set can't be inserted in the die set.
In these cases, I have found both the cleco pliers and battery pliers to
be able to get in there and press the dies together. Cleco pliers also
work well for screwing in rod-end bearings. Be careful though, and pad
them to avoid damaging the bearings.
Brian Eckstein
6A those big fuel tanks are taking shape
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: I goofed - tolerances - My HS is too far to right |
>
>I isn't much. In attaching the horizontal stabilizer, I worried about
getting it
>nice and level and drilling holes snug with #12, dead center on steel straps.
>But in the process, it moved to the right 3/16 inch.
>
>I could probably ignore it and consider it as within limits. Oddly, there are
>only a few tolerances shown on the plans.
>
>Or I could fix it with a patch. My favorite idea is to fill the four holes in
>the bars that are riveted to the HS with segments of AN bolt, swedged and
staked
>in followed by new holes immediately next to them. I'd then use a larger
washer
>to ensure that the fillers remained in place.
>
>Another option would be to double either these or the verticals.
>
>What do you all think?
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne Emergency pager 510.840.6207
>Senior Alliance Engineer Regular phone & pager 415.943.8358
>Sybase, Inc.
Hal,
I am not sure about the side to side tolerances but your suggested repair
does not sound as if it would comply with standard aircraft repair
practices. Those bolts are all that stand between you and eternity and there
has been an RV crash which seems to have related to non-standard practice in
the same area.
I would definitely speak to Van's about this and follow their repair advice
if they think the 3/16 lateral shift is significant.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I recently did some work on a work that required removing and replacing
some skin. The previous owner had smoothed all the rivet lines with a
bondo type material. It made it very hard to locate and drill some of
the rivets. Some of the screws in the fuel tank were covered, also. I
cannot get all the bondo (or whatever) out of the screw heads. Does
anyone know of a chemical or something else that will help clean out
these screw heads? This is a very good reason I will never smooth over
rivet lines on an airplane. You never know when a repair will be
necessary. I'm concerned about making a bigger mess if I have to drill
these screws out. Thanks to anyone who can offer advice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Aerobatics |
>
>Hi,
>
>To date, all my aerobatic flying has been in aircraft equipped with
>inverted systems. I am in the process of building an RV-6. I am
>debating putting in the fuel injection and inverted systems. I probably
>will not put them in because I am well aware that the RV-6 is NOT a
>highly aerobatic aircraft.
>
>My question is......
>On an RV-6 without inverted systems, what kinds of maneuvers can be
>flown safely?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
>
For years Van has flown airshows in a positive G aircraft, and they keep
inviting him back, so you obviously can do more than fly straight and
level. The basic rolls, loops, cuban eights, immelman. Any manuver you
can perform with your butt staying in the seat will keep the engine running
and the belly clean and those listed above fit in that catagory if done
properly. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight noise |
Terry, give me a call at 817-439-3280 and i'd be glad to talk to you about
your noise problem. I'd need to know some more info before I could answer
your questions.....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Banquet at Oshkosh |
I spoke with Van's today about the banquet:
It will be Sunday, August 3 - cocktails at 1830 and dinner at 1930. They have
not named the
place and they are not taking reservations at this time.
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
*************************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | osmith(at)seas.ucla.edu (Owen Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealing |
> Are there many people out there who have been flying RV's with this
> setup and having no fuel tank leaks? I'll probably put a dab of
> pro-seal in each screw hole anyway to make sure those don't leak.
If you do use pro-seal, be sure to use the low adhesion formulation
meeting MIL-S-8784B; that's CS3300, PS706 or PR1321 depending on the
manufacturer. That way the plates are easily removed if necessary.
I don't think much of sealing sheet metal surfaces with gaskets. If you
have thicker surfaces to which you can apply force without distortion,
then gaskets are OK. I'm using pro-seal.
Are you using blind nutplates? I'm not sure what Van provides as I'm
building an S51. Wag-Aero has surplus 8-32 blind nutpates at a reasonable
price.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | comm antennas-Watt meter |
On the subject of comm antennas, if anyone is interested in a industry
standard BIRD 43 watt meter, I have an extra one I would sell for $150
plus shipping to your location. (If new, the same model of meter will
sell for about $375) The meter is in excellent shape, is extremly
accurate, but, I do not have any "slugs" to sell with it. The slug is
a plug like device that is inserted into the watt meter to make it
read correctly at the frequency you are interested in and at the
wattage you expect to measure. The slugs are a common item that can
be purchased from a Ham Radio store. They will run about $65 ea. You
should only need one for most aircraft use, (the same slug will work
in the 2m Ham Band also) but if other frequencies are of interest to
you the meter will work well no mater what frequency you are
interested in, you would just have to purchase the slug of choice for
the additional frequency. I could supply a list of stores that handle
such items, along with a chart of available slugs if requested.
Call me if you have questions about this item or would like to
purchase it.
Warren Gretz
3664 E. Lake Dr.
Littleton, CO 80121
(303) 770-3811 evenings or weekends
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Propellers |
Hal,
This is not intended as a flame, but rather as a stop and think about
what you said note. Since when do we expect someone to backup their
personal opinion with scientific studies and numbers.
Steve offered you his personal opinion and you criticized him for it.
I would rather have Steve's or Bill Benedict's personal opinions based
on years of experience than all the numbers some other people could
come up with.
Curtis Hinkley
RV-8 #80015
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
You wrote:
>
>
>Usually, when I get mail that has no message, only an attachment - I
delete it withoutreading it. Steve Barnard's is worth opening tho.
Steve wrote:
>
>>I think the 200 hp fuel injected Lycoming with 1 electronic ignition
combined with the new cowling and cooling plenum to be the most
efficient & economical as far a speed and fuel burn are concerned that
one can put in an RV-series plane.
>
>and then he said:
>
>>I'm sure I'll pick up some flak on that one.
>
>Yes, indeedy! Especially when the claims are without hard numbers!
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Unwrapping the horizontal stab - this isn't
so hard!
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Firewall Recess |
>
>Hi,
>
>I am building a RV-6 with a O-360-A1A engine. I will be installing a
>spin on oil filter.
>
>When installing the firewall recess, does the angled end face up or
>down?
>
>(I seem to be missing the instruction information for the recess kit)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
Good question, A friend has his drilled in pointing up, because the catalog
shows it that way I guess. I drilled mine with the angle down, because of
the rudder pedals. We have not found out yet. My only worry is I don't know
where C/S govennor fits in.
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6/ Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Sealing |
Mal'
The wire wound resistor type (bad ones) have wire wound around a flat piece
of plastic looking material perpindicular to the wipe arm that the rod is
attached to.
The foil resistor type (good ones) have what looks like aluminum foil where
the wipe arm is. When I got my second sending units I ordeded the foil type
from a stewart warner supplier locally after talking to them about my
failure. I think S.W. is now making only the foil type since 1995.
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KennyCobb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 For Sale |
Ted Rutherford
Bakersfield, Ca
805-399-1356
N102GW was completed in 1986 in Bakersfield, Ca by John Harmon, Steve Ward
& Bob Galloway. The airplane had a total of 116 hours when I purchased the
plane from Steve Ward in April 1993. The 0-320 had 1873 hours when installed
in the new airframe. I flew with the old engine another 200 hours then had
Lycon Engine Builders of Visalia, Ca major the engine. The engine now has 430
hours since major. Total time airframe 730 hours. Equipment, two coms, Icom
flip flop and Escort nav/com both 720 channel. NorthStar Loran, Narco
encoding transponder and Garmin GPS. Reason for selling, I am building a
Harmon Rockett
Asking Price $ 45,000.00
If interested please call Ted Rutherford at 805-399-1356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Aviation Aerodynamics |
<< The best part is that he's going to be selling the cowls to any and all
comers! I was told that more info is available through the internet site
at Barnard.com but I've not been able to link up to it. If you happen to
spot it, please post the location. >>
Bob-
This is Steve and Theresa Barnard's RV-6A. Steve is on the RV-List and can
be reached at Steve(at)barnardaircraft.com. Careful though, he might not enjoy
the comment about the "funky" wingtips because I believe that form, in this
case, follows function. His URL is http://www.barnardaircraft.com
And BTW this is all listed in the RV Builders' Yeller Pages at
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
I use the Avery Pop rivet dimplers for all those tight spots. They work
extremely well. I have filed down one edge of the female die for the extra
tight places. Good luck!
Rob Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bolander-RFLB50 <Bob_Bolander-RFLB50(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
| Subject: | RE>Re- RV-List- upholstery |
RE>Re: RV-List: upholstery 5/12/97
817-236-9801
--------------------------------------
Date: 5/9/97 10:49 PM
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com@AZBCSM1
<< Does anyone know a telephone number for George and Becky Orndorff? >>
Check the Yeller Pages!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
There's been an add in SA for some time for a Lycoming TO-360-C1A,
turbocharged 210 hp, for $9000. Has anyone checked this out, or know
anything about the engine(s)?
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Empenage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I'd like to share my recent experience with blind rivets with the list.
Our local chapter's Technical Counselor inspected my RV6A project and
questioned the mandrel breakage in the Avex rivets, mainly the LP4-3s. It
seems he was accustomed to Cherry rivets which have requirements that the
mandrel break at or above the level of the rivet head.
I called Van's and they faxed me the Avex spec sheet which says the
mandrels break off beneath the rivet head. In fact, they deem this a
product advantage, as there is no rivet head shaving required.
I passed this along to the counselor as we have a half-dozen or more RVs in
our chapter.
I assume from the spec sheet that in the case of Avex rivets, the mandrel
contributes little to the shear strength. As a reality check, I inspected
a friend's 6AQB, and the factory-installed LP4-3s had mandrels that were
from 1/32 to 5/32 below the top of the rivet head, some well below the
shear plane.
Happy riveting!
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mlcarr(at)qdot.qld.gov.au (Martin Carr) |
| Subject: | Re: *** New RV6A Web Site ???*** |
>I have been unable to locate the new "RV6A" web site using the information
on a previous message.
Can anybody provide the correct web site ie: http://www.??????
Sorry, but I need all the help I can get using the web! I have tried a couple
of search engines but have had no luck.
Thanks,
Martin Carr (Australia)
RV6A Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FLYBUDDY LORAN FOR SALE;$250` |
Like new Apollo Flybuddy Loran C for sale. Hardly used, still looks new.
Includes installation manual and operators instructions. No antenae. Has full
database. Will ship UPS C.O.D. $250.00. E-mail to MAlexan533, or fax
503-838-3834. Also includes tray and connectors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
After 250 hours in my rv-4 I was asked to ferry a 152 to our home airport.
I jumped at the chance to climb back in an old friend. Enough said!
Tom Martin
RV-4 you will never go back
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling Tools (technique) |
In a message dated 5/12/97 6:05:50 AM, you wrote:
<>
I was not satisfied with my dimples(there seem to be a depression around the
dimpled area -maybe an 1/* of an inch). I was using a "C" type dimpling tools
kind of hanging over the edge of a table. Then the suggestion was made to
dimple on the floor or other extremely sturdy platform. The difference was
amazing. My hand squeezer(tatco) produces the same poor results. So now I am
using the "C" whenever possible. Try it both ways, I think you will agree.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bennett(at)healey.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: ACK ELT installation |
According
> to him only the tip of the antenna transmitted any ways
> >
> Tom Martin
> RV-4
>
>
I can feel a Bob Nuckolls coming on........It's the base of the
antenna that does all the work
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
>the rivets. Some of the screws in the fuel tank were covered, also. I
>cannot get all the bondo (or whatever) out of the screw heads. Does
>anyone know of a chemical or something else that will help clean out
>these screw heads? This is a very good reason I will never smooth over
Acetone will soften, if not remove lightweight Bondo body filler. You have
to keep the Bondo wet with it for a few minutes, and it helps to scuff the
surface of the patch first with fairly course sandpaper, like about 100
grit. I use a course ScotchBrite pad wet with the stuff. Wear rubber
gloves (latex will dissolve) and try to stay upwind of the fumes. Acetone
will also soften and ultimately erase epoxy and vinyl resins used in
fiberglass parts, so use some discretion.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
SNIP>Jim, our EAA Chapter received a copy of an article,"Friends Don't
Let
Friends Fly Ivo", listing 8 failures of Ivo Props. Contact Bob Treuter
(612)436-8471 author for an update. His prop failed in 5 hours---hit
the wing---crash in dense forest on the way to OSH.| From: | N595CM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ACK ELT installation |
Richard,
I installed the same ELT on my now flying RV-4.
Let me tell you what I did and how it worked out.
I put the main unit on the ledge in the baggage compartment over the
elevator bellcrank. This as it turned out not to be a good place for it
because it does move the C.G. aft and you definatly don't want that, it cuts
down on the passenger weight and baggabe weight as well. The batteries in
these things add up in weight and that was fairly far aft of C.G. A better
place for it on the 4 is over the batterty compartment as far foreward as
possible. It is a little agrivating when you go to get to your battery but
how often do you do that anyway.
I used the antenna they supplied and mounted it about 16" in front of the
verticle fin. It does not bend back as far as you might think. I have
pictures of it during flight and it bends back about 45 degrees at the tip. I
investigated other antennas but they all are the same length.
I mounted the indicator panel at the bottom right of my instrument panel.
Also don't forget to put the battery in the indicator panel like I did. The
remote indicator panel will not work without it and you cannot test or reset
your ELT without the battery. I hope this helps.
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
<< I was hoping someone could answer a dimpling tool question. I am
preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer
(HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new Avery tool
#1001 will not work to do this. I think I am going to have to purchase
the vise grip dimpling tool to do this. My question is: Is this the correct
tool? Or the only tool? or is there another way. Signed, a beginner. >>
I don't remember this being a problem, but in all my tight squeeze places
I've used a pop rivet dimpling tool. Its about the only thing to use a the
tip end of the HS skin (don't try to squeeze the Avery tool in there....).
Its cheap, fast and works great. Also, get a swivel deburring tool so you
can take one or two turns in the dimples--really makes a difference.
Jon Scholl
RV6 Wings
bcg007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Firewall Recess |
Glenn,
The angled end goes to the top (unless your looking at it in the jig)
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
Fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3-bladed props-Fail |
<337600EF.2A9B(at)innercite.com>
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
writes:
(Stuff Cut)
>
>Jim, our EAA Chapter recieved a copy of an article,"Friends Don't Let
>Friends Fly Ivo", listing 8 failures of Ivo Props. Contact Bob
>Treuter
>(612)436-8471 author for an update. His prop failed in 5 hours---hit
>the wing---crash in dense forest on the way to OSH.
>
>Steve
>
Hello Steve,
I talked to Bob Treuter before I started flying Ivoprop.
Even though I have flown the prototype Ivoprop Magnum prop (bad Idea to
fly any prototype prop!!);
I didn't add material to the outer third of the prop blade to "improve"
the prop.
I didn't run my engine at a critical RPM, such as, peak torque to
maximize impulse loading.
I didn't drill out the blade hub for large (stronger) bolts, which
removed the blade hub structure. (Similar to removing wing spar material
to reduce weight.)
Bob did.
There is a group of ULTRALIGHT pilots in Bob's area who feel comfortable
modifying manufacturers props. If something happens, they EXPECT the
prop manufacturer to replace their ULTRALIGHT. It has worked for them
before. Bob's still trying.
My opinion only, after talking to both Bob and Ivo, before I started
flying the Ivoprop MAGNUM prop.
BTW, the ULTRALIGHT Ivoprop and the MAGNUM prop are two totally different
props.
The ULTRALIGHT prop is normally flown on a two cycle engine.
The MAGNUM prop is normally run on a four cycle four cylinder engine.
This engine type has awful impulse loading into the prop, which is why
there has been a thread on the RV list about the 12 pound vibration
reducer.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Firewall Recess |
>When installing the firewall recess, does the angled end face up or
>down?
Glen,
The following crude ASCII drawing is the proper way to install the firewall
recess. Up is obviously towards the top of the page. I was able to obtain
a very clean installation by putting the flanges on the firewall recess on
the aft side of the firewall and sandwiching them between the firewall and
reinforcing angles.
!\
! \
! \
! \
! \
! !
! !
-----
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV (Avionics in, starting to paint this weekend :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 cowl for sale |
For Sale-
RV-6 C/S Cowling, scoop, and filtered air box for 0-320. $250.
Unused, of course. Does not include spinner.
Bob Japundza
RV-6, ready for an IO-360
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com (Rob Rimbold) |
> I cannot get all the bondo (or whatever) out of the screw heads. Does
> anyone know of a chemical or something else that will help clean out
> these screw heads?
Acetone or MEK (Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) will soften the Bondo, but won't
make it any easier to remove from the small crevices of a screw head.
Use the pointed tip of an Exacto razor knife, available in hobby
stores or the hobby area of department stores. Just scrape away thin
layers of Bondo until a screw driver fits. Then use new scews. :-)
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: empenage dimpling |
Craig Nelson wrote:
>
> I was hoping someone could answer a dimpling tool question. I am
> preparing the "flanges" on the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer
> (HS-603-PP) for dimpling when I discovered that my new Avery tool
> #1001 will not work to do this. I think I am going to have to purchase
> the vise grip dimpling tool to do this. My question is: Is this the correct
> tool? Or the only tool? or is there another way.
I have been able to do all my dimpling either with the Avery tool or my
rivet squeezer, the exception being the screw dimples that I did with
the special dimpling tool available. I admit, however that the vise
grip tool would have been handy in places. The most important special
tools are the dies ground for clearance in tight places, IMHO.
You could modify the Avery tool by grinding the front end and arbor
block back so that you could dimple the flanges by putting the female
die in the arbor block and allowing the spar to hang below the tool.
However, it would weaken the tool for wing spar rivetting, and is not
something I would recommend in any case; it would be better to get one
of the special tools.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
barnardaircraft wrote:
>
> Hope everyone enjoys the interchange of ideas and information-no opinions here.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Steve Barnard
Steve, I have been very interested in the exchange of info. Thanks.
And, while I am quite a ways from the finishing kit, I have a question
about your cowl. Does it work with the Van's engine baffling kit? Or
did you, in the quest for more efficient cooling, come up with your own
baffling? If so, do you have a kit for it? I ask, because I am not a
scratch-builder (there, I admit it) and the engine systems installation
will be difficult enough for me without having to scratch-build a lot of
things to fit your cowl, which I am inlined to buy when I get to that
stage. Thanks for the info, and please reply to the list; someone else
may be wondering about this.
PatK - RV-6A - Working on parts for the second wing while waiting on
painter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: I goofed - tolerances - My HS is too far to right |
<< I isn't much. In attaching the horizontal stabilizer, I worried about
getting it
nice and level and drilling holes snug with #12, dead center on steel
straps.
But in the process, it moved to the right 3/16 inch. >>
I wouldn't worry about 3/16th of an inch. An inch yes. Go on with your life
and in time you will not even notice this.
I doubt that this miscalculation will have any meaningfull effect on your
aircraft. DO NOT try to correct the mistake. At this point of construction
you must have learned that you'll more than likely make it worse if you
attempt a jury-rig fix.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Stall warning device |
The recent post about this reminded me that I wanted to put one of these
one my aircraft (not that I fly near stall, but I like having one for
IFR conditions; a favorite author referred to it as the 'belt and
suspenders attitude'). Anyway, I wheezed when I saw the price at ACS
and so I appeal to the 'list. If anyone can locate one of these
salvaged from an aircraft at a reasonable price, please contact me. I
will be ready to install in about two months and hope to find one by
then. I am looking for the blade type (I am not sure I'd hear the
Cessna 'kazoo'), with or without the horn but preferably with.
PatK - RV-6A - Starting in on right wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)world.std.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Firewall Recess |
>
>Hi,
>
>I am building a RV-6 with a O-360-A1A engine. I will be installing a
>spin on oil filter.
>
>When installing the firewall recess, does the angled end face up or
>down?
>
>(I seem to be missing the instruction information for the recess kit)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
Glenn,
I'm not sure what the plan says. In the RV-6A that I
bought from Gary, the angled part is up. I also have a Lycoming
O-360-A1A and the spin-on oil filter and governor fit fine. I
removed the oil filter when I was putting on the fitting for
the oil cooler and it was no problem.
Cheryl Sanchez
csanchez(at)world.std.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
You might try a Dremel type motor with a small bit to grind it out.
Les Williams
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Michael C. Lott
Sent: Monday, May 12, 1997 2:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bondo
I recently did some work on a work that required removing and replacing
some skin. The previous owner had smoothed all the rivet lines with a
bondo type material. It made it very hard to locate and drill some of
the rivets. Some of the screws in the fuel tank were covered, also. I
cannot get all the bondo (or whatever) out of the screw heads. Does
anyone know of a chemical or something else that will help clean out
these screw heads? This is a very good reason I will never smooth over
rivet lines on an airplane. You never know when a repair will be
necessary. I'm concerned about making a bigger mess if I have to drill
these screws out. Thanks to anyone who can offer advice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: ACK ELT installation |
>
>I am getting ready to install the above referenced ELT in my -4. The
>external antenna is a 1/4 wave antenna with a coiled element
Where did anyone installed such an ELT install:
>
> A - the main unit?
In the baggage compartment, right forward area, wires running under the
right cockpit rail.
B - the indicator panel?
On the panel, right lower area.
> C - the antenna?
On the roll-over structure, right side, out of the way (and sorta out of
sight...it IS ugly: I used the supplied antenna.)
They are high on the list of worthless items mandated by an
>ever encroaching govt. IMHO....
See archives for lively discussion..........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
For all you who are beginning building, in addition to the other items
already mentioned you'll also need the #3 and #4 die sets that fit on a
finish nail (used as mandrel) that are used in conjunction with a pop
rivet tool, I think Wicks, Avery and Cleavland all sell them. In close
areas like at the aft end of rudder, aileron and elevator ribs you may
even need to bend the flange of the rib in order to install the die so a
dimple can be made. It's all part of learning to be creative, something
you'll need to be more of the farther you get into your project.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage Jig For Sale |
Steve Frey RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale. $900.00
RV6AIR(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: 3-bladed props-Fail |
Steve,
Could you please summarize the failures listed in the article for the list.
Ivo has been the subject of a lot of negative comments here and other places
in the past, but I have rarely seen specifics.
This is not intended as a flame. As a possible Ivo or ??? customer in the
future I would simply like to have all the facts to help in making a
decision. The Ivo on paper looks like a reasonably priced alternative. It
obviously is working for Jim.
BTW, there were 2 Velocity factory demo aircraft at Chino this last
weekend, neither appeared to have an Ivo on it.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Jim, our EAA Chapter recieved a copy of an article,"Friends Don't Let
>Friends Fly Ivo", listing 8 failures of Ivo Props. Contact Bob Treuter
>(612)436-8471 author for an update. His prop failed in 5 hours---hit
>the wing---crash in dense forest on the way to OSH.
>
>Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Firewall Recess |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am building a RV-6 with a O-360-A1A engine. I will be installing a
> spin on oil filter.
>
> When installing the firewall recess, does the angled end face up or
> down?
>
> (I seem to be missing the instruction information for the recess kit)
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
up
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I think a computer icon on a cap from Van's is a great idea.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balance Prop |
>
>Exactly how does one do this? I assume that prop shops have some sort of
>machine analogous to an automobile tire balancing machine but am curious
>just how these devices work. Also, if anyone has a short answer on how to
>best do this please advise. I am talking specifically about a wooden prop
>in my case.
>
>Richard E. Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT
>Herndon, VA
>rbibb(at)fore.com
Richard,
The mechanic who balanced both my wood prop and the Sensenich FP metal
used a Chadwick machine. We bolted a sensor to the engine case and ran
wires from this to the unit in front of the airplane. Then, the prop is
"strobed" while the engine is running. He took some readings, we shut down
and he figured how much weight was needed and then we went through the
process again. After three runs, we were done. On the Sensenich, we ended
up using two AN4 bolts, four large AN4 washers, two small AN4 washers and
two AN4 365 nuts. These were placed side by side in two holes on the ring
gear. Weights could also be put on the rear spinner bulkhead. The
Sensenich prop was new and I had it static balanced when I took it to the
prop shop to have it re-pitched. It checked out fine on the static balance
but ran very rough on the airplane.
A friend, who has a RV-4 with conical mounts, ran the Sensencih on a short
flight and thought all of the needles on his gauges were going to fall off.
He cut his flight short because of the tremendous vibration.
Dynamic balancing smoothed the operation of both props considerably and I
highly recommend the practice.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ACK ELT installation |
<< I am getting ready to install the above referenced ELT in my -4. >>
I instatalled the same unit in my -4. I put the main unit under the right
floorboard just behind the spar and behind the right aileron control tube. I
put an access panel in the floorboard to service the unit (this location
won't work if you put in rear seat foot wells).
I ran the cable up the pilot seat back, and mounted the antenna on a 90
degree bracket attached to the upper part of the seat back on the right side.
I carved off part of the rubber antenna base to make it a tight fit against
the side of the seat back, to keep it out of the way of the passengers leg.
I then ran the antenna up the roll over structure to where the top of the
antenna is almost to the top of the roll structure, and I secured the
antenna to the roll structure with a tie wrap. This "hides" that ugly antenna
on the outside of the roll structure, where it is not visible at all when you
look in the cockpit from the left side of the plane.
I cannot comment on how well the antenna will transmit being tie wrapped on
the roll structure, but it is at least not an eyesore.
Tom Chapman
San Antonio, TX
600 hours on my RV4, about to start RV-8 tail kit
TOMRV4(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Firewall Recess |
>
>Hi,
>
>I am building a RV-6 with a O-360-A1A engine. I will be installing a
>spin on oil filter.
>
>When installing the firewall recess, does the angled end face up or
>down?
>
>(I seem to be missing the instruction information for the recess kit)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
>
The sloped surface goes up. In the Accessories Catalog is a picture of it
installed in the firewall. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK ELT installation |
Guys,
.... you need cauion here! Our experimental planes are exemp from
many regulations, but the ELT requirements are NOT one of them (except for
the single place RV3)
"Sec. 91.207 Emergency locator transmitters.
(a) Except as provided in paragraphs (e) and (f) of this section, no person
may operate a U.S.-registered civil airplane unless--
(1) There is attached to the airplane an approved automatic type emergency
locator transmitter that is in operable condition for the following
operations, except that after June 21, 1995, an emergency locator
transmitter that meets the requirements of TSO-C91 may not be used for new
installations:
..... [read the rest yourself ... it's interesting and pretty spcific]"
What makes it approved? TSO-C91a {note the 'a'} does, and this is
reflected in the ELT manufacture's installation instructions.
In general, it is NOT approved with a different antenna, and NOT
approved without the instrument panel test control/indicator. If in doubt,
read the installation manual ...:^)
Your Tech. Counselor and DAR should spot this violation, and sorry
Tom, I would mark this violation [the missing indicator] on my Technical
Counselor visit record (unless your RV4 was certified before June, 1995).
Remember, if you violate the FARs most insurance companies will not honor
your policy.
..... Gil (being a fussy inspector) Alexander
RV6A #20701 .... on hold while my shattered right elbow heals [excuse
typos, all done left hand only]
>
>>
>>I am getting ready to install the above referenced ELT in my -4. The
>>external antenna is a 1/4 wave antenna with a coiled element that is about
>>15" tall and looks like it would be bent 90 degrees to the slipstream at
>>cruise. It is ugly, too.
>>
>>Questions:
>>
>>1) Where did anyone who has installed such an ELT install:
>>
>> A - the main unit?
>
>I put it on the hat shelf in the baggage compartment
>> B - the indicator panel?
>
>I did not bother with the indicator unit
>> C - the antenna?
>
>I mounted it right in the baggage compartment beside the ELT and put a hole
>in the top skin. The tip of the antenna is under the plexiglass. I talked to
>the factory about this and he assured me that it was satisfactory. Even
>better in a crash the antenna would be less likely to be removed, According
>to him only the tip of the antenna transmitted any ways
>>
> Tom Martin
>RV-4
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hitchings" <briandh(at)lantic.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: ELECTRIC ARTIFICIAL HORIZON |
Hi Fellow Listers
I have just heard about electric AH's that are available from
decommissioned military aircraft (Noel, they are the Bosboks): some new,
some overhauled - but all with green (military) tags. They are priced at
about $200,00 each.
The catch, however, is that they are 28 volt instruments. Is it practical
to buy or design a power supply for the AH - it seems to me that at $200,00
there is room for spending something on a power supply.
A fellow builder (not on the list) says that he recalls some or other
warning by Bob Nuckolls about using non-12 volt instruments that on a 12
volt bus.
Any comments?
Regards
Brian Hitchings
South Africa
RV-6A (Flaps)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
After five years and two months from tail delivery, N133 DW first flight
today, at Front Range Airport. 35 minutes of pure joy. There is hope for
you all!
RV-6A, 180 with CS
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Returned mail: User unknown |
---------------------
From: MAILER-DAEMON(at)aol.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Date: 97-05-13 19:38:53 EDT
from root@localhost
----- The following addresses have delivery notifications -----
rv-list(at)matronics.com (unrecoverable error)
----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to user-mail.slip.net.:
>>> RCPT To:
<<< 553 relaying to prohibited by administrator
550 rv-list(at)matronics.com... User unknown
----- Original message follows -----
by emout01.mail.aol.com (8.7.6/8.7.3/AOL-2.0.0)
id RAA05087 for rv-list(at)matronics.com;
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 17:41:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigCfly001(at)aol.com
Subject: HS-602 tongue
After visiting the "the bunnys guide to building an rv" web sight,and
reading every word,I think i've got a problem.the tongue on my HS-602's were
cut yesterday.I meet the standard 2d edge dist. for all the holes except the
fuselage attaching points.However i do meet the edge dist. when measuring
from center of the hole to the edge of either the 610 or the 614 they are
exactly 3 1/4 wide the only place i fall short is the 602's tongue edge
dist.I dont see this being a real problem because the 610 and 614 is where
the attachment load will be,If anyone agrees or disagrees please let me
know.All comments are greatly appreciated.
chris marion
Rv-6 building HS
cincy, oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Firewall Recess |
>>I am building a RV-6 with a O-360-A1A engine. I will be installing a
>>spin on oil filter.
>>
>>When installing the firewall recess, does the angled end face up or
>>down?
>
> Good question, A friend has his drilled in pointing up, because the catalog
>shows it that way I guess. I drilled mine with the angle down, because of
>the rudder pedals. We have not found out yet. My only worry is I don't know
>where C/S govennor fits in.
The firewall recess is installed with the flat surface uppermost and the
sloping portion towards the floor. I speak as someone who has installed it
the other way and then removed it.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com (Rob Rimbold) |
| Subject: | How to prime lots of pieces at once? |
We received our RV6A kit (all of the kits, actually) today. It
arrived in the early afternoon, and by evening we were mostly done
with the inventory. Now I've got a question about priming.
We'd like to prime as many pieces at once as we can, before we start
building anything. Does anyone have advice as to how the part numbers
(currently ink-stamped on the aluminum) can be best retained after
priming?
Stamping the numbers into the aluminum is a possibility, but presents
dangers of its own. Another alternative would be to make a part
number map of the pieces as they lay on the painting stand and
re-write the numbers on top of the primer with a Sharpie pen after the
paint dries.
Has anyone else painted large numbers of parts at once? How did you
remember which part was which? Any advice is welcome! Thanks in
advance.
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
US Air Force Issues: Here are some actual maintenance complaints submitted
by US Air Force pilots and the replies from the maintenance crews.
Problem: "Left inside main tire almost needs replacement."
Solution: "Almost replaced left inside main tire."
Problem: "Test flight OK, except autoland very rough."
Solution: "Autoland not installed on this aircraft."
Problem: "Something loose in cockpit."
Solution: "Something tightened in cockpit."
Problem: "Evidence of hydraulic leak on right main landing gear."
Solution: "Evidence removed."
Problem: "DME volume unbelievably loud."
Solution: "Volume set to more believable level."
Problem: "Dead bugs on windshield."
Solution: "Live bugs on order."
Problem: "Autopilot in altitude hold mode produces a 200 fpm descent."
Solution: "Cannot reproduce problem on ground."
Problem: "IFF inoperative."
Solution: "IFF inoperative in OFF mode."
Problem: "Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick."
Solution: "That's what they're there for."
Problem: "Number three engine missing."
Solution: "Number three engine found on right wing after brief search."
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Serious Connectivity Problems [PLEASE READ NOW] |
RV and Zenith List Members,
There are serious problems with connectivity to the matronics.com domain
currently. The email problems began Wednesday May 14 about 1am and are
currently still unresolved. I have been in contact with the ISP, Slipnet,
but I have basically received the run around. Current problems involve
any email sent to the matronics.com domain, and an unrelated problem with
certain files on the www.matronics.com web server, and finally connections
problems to ftp.matronics.com FTP server. The later two problems began
around Friday May 9 and would affect archive searching as well as viewing
videos and bitmaps on the matronics web page.
I am doing everything I can to motivate the ISP to resolve these issues.
However, they have been less than responsive so far. Perhaps if the almost
1000 people on the RV and Zenith email lists each sent an email message to
the Slipnet technical support (support(at)slipnet.net) and its president
Ted Glenwright (ted(at)slip.net) indicating how important these services are
to them, they might find some time to look into it. Refer to Slipnet
trouble ticket numbers 43615 (web and ftp problem) and 43866 (email
forwarding problem).
--> Please do not post any messages to the matronics.com domain until further
notice from me as your email will likely bounce. I will post a message
when all has returned to normal.
--> If you need to send me email, please send it to my alternate email
address: dralle(at)roxanne.llnl.gov
Matt Dralle
Matronics
RV and Zenith List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Serious Connectivity Problems [PLEASE READ NOW] |
RV and Zenith List Members,
There are serious problems with connectivity to the matronics.com domain
currently. The email problems began Wednesday May 14 about 1am and are
currently still unresolved. I have been in contact with the ISP, Slipnet,
but I have basically received the run around. Current problems involve
any email sent to the matronics.com domain, and an unrelated problem with
certain files on the www.matronics.com web server, and finally connections
problems to ftp.matronics.com FTP server. The later two problems began
around Friday May 9 and would affect archive searching as well as viewing
videos and bitmaps on the matronics web page.
--> Please do not post any messages to the matronics.com domain until further
notice from me as your email will likely bounce. I will post a message
when all has returned to normal.
--> If you need to send me email, please send it to my alternate email
address: dralle(at)roxanne.llnl.gov
Matt Dralle
Matronics
RV and Zenith List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unbridled glee |
Dennis,
congrad's
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Returned mail: User unknown |
You can put extra rivets in-between the existing rivets to pick up the edge
distance on the 602s if you can maintain the 2d edge distance on the 610 and
614 in doing so.
Les Williams/RV-6AQB/N24LW (reserved)
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of
aol.com!BigCfly001(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 1997 4:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: Returned mail: User unknown
---------------------
From: MAILER-DAEMON(at)aol.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Date: 97-05-13 19:38:53 EDT
from root@localhost
----- The following addresses have delivery notifications -----
rv-list(at)matronics.com (unrecoverable error)
----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to user-mail.slip.net.:
>>> RCPT To:
<<< 553 relaying to prohibited by administrator
550 rv-list(at)matronics.com... User unknown
----- Original message follows -----
by emout01.mail.aol.com (8.7.6/8.7.3/AOL-2.0.0)
id RAA05087 for rv-list(at)matronics.com;
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 17:41:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigCfly001(at)aol.com
Subject: HS-602 tongue
After visiting the "the bunnys guide to building an rv" web sight,and
reading every word,I think i've got a problem.the tongue on my HS-602's were
cut yesterday.I meet the standard 2d edge dist. for all the holes except the
fuselage attaching points.However i do meet the edge dist. when measuring
from center of the hole to the edge of either the 610 or the 614 they are
exactly 3 1/4 wide the only place i fall short is the 602's tongue edge
dist.I dont see this being a real problem because the 610 and 614 is where
the attachment load will be,If anyone agrees or disagrees please let me
know.All comments are greatly appreciated.
chris marion
Rv-6 building HS
cincy, oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Problems to Matronics.com Domain... |
RV and Zenith Listers -
Try as a might, I am still unable to motivate my ISP to resolve the
connectivity problems to the matronics.com domain. Currently, these
problems include:
-> No incoming email to the matronics.com domain (started Tue 5/13)
-> Most videos and graphics on the matronics.com web pages are
not accessable (reported Thrusday 5/8)
-> FTP connections to ftp.matronics.com do not work correctly
(reported Thrusday 5/8)
Fortunately, outgoing mail is still working allowing me to send messages out.
Any messages sent to the matronics.com domain between Tuesday 5/13 and
Thursday 5/15 were probably lost. Any messages sent to the matronics.com
domain after Thursday 5/15 are most likely in queue and will be delivered
normally when connectivity is finally restored.
I will continue to contact my ISP's technical support on a daily basis until
all of these problems are resolved. It seems incredible that a paying customer
such as Matronics would have to work so hard to have these problems resolved,
but alas that is support in the 90's I suppose...
Please do not post any messages to rv-list(at)matronics.com or
zenith-list(at)matronics.com until I post another message indicating that
connectivity has been completely restored.
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics
RV-List and Zenith-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Matronics.COM Back OnLine!!! |
Hello RVrs!
After a great deal of hair pulling, my ISP finally has the matronics.com
domain back online! I have tested the email pretty well and it seems to
be working normally again.
The problems with the Matronics Web and FTP servers have also been resolved.
The good news is that the new directory structure imposed by the ISP (and
consequently breaking most of my web pages and ftp server) have actually
been an improvment. I have spent most of last evening and tonight redoing
the web pages and ftp server to conform to the new layout and everything seems
to be working very well. The best news is that the archive volumes are
now available via 'http' hyperlinks instead of 'ftp' hyperlinks and should
work with everyone's browser (hyperlinks via ftp is broken in many browsers).
I have also been queueing any messages posted to the RV-List in the last
week (starting about last Thursday) and will repost these to the List
following this message. If you posted a message and don't see it, assume
that it hit the bit-bucket last week sometime during the bad part of the
outage.
Please feel free to start posting messages to rv-list(at)matronics.com as normal!
Also, please have a look at the matronics web pages, archive files, and
videos and let me know if you have any problems. The URL is:
http://www.matronics.com
and the anonymous ftp server is:
- - - , 20- - May 15, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-cv