RV-Archive.digest.vol-cy
June 01, 1997 - June 09, 1997
Tim, the "Best" long term storage per Lycoming reps is to fill the
engine with motor oil. Any automotive oil (Quaker 10-30) or whatever
you use in the family velocepede will do. I turned my new O-360 upside
down on a old tire carefully padded with foam peanuts in a plastic bag
to protect the pushrod tubes. I added about 20 quarts at the oil sump
then I tilted the engine to fill each cylinder at the lower (now up)
sparkplug hole, replaced the plugs and filled and capped the exhaust
ports then topped it off for a total of about 34 qts. after I added a
standpipe to the sump for expansion-contraction. Just dangle the now
inverted engine from a hoist at a variety of angles to remove most of
the bubbles----no air=no moisture for corrosion. I also leave a 25 watt
bulb on in the box during the winter to minimise moisture on the
outside. Steve Colwell RV-6 flyer, Lancair 360 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bud Newhall
aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
>
> I am looking for alternatives in attaching k1000-08 nutplates to thin
> material i.e. less than .032 where machine countersinking the base material
> is impractical. Assuming you have to dimple the base material this poses the
> question as to what to do with the dimple protruding out the backside ? This
> situation is encountered numerous times in the floor and baggage area on the
> RV4.
> Does anyone manufacture a nutplate with countersunk attachment holes
> with the same spacing as a normal K1000 nutplate? If so, what is the part
> number and where on the big blue marble might one look to find.
> Other alternatives I have considered: Adding a thick doubler plate under
> the nutplate. The doubler would be machine countersunk to accept the dimple
> from above. This works but adds mass and is time consuming.
> Attempting to use brute force and dimple the steel ends of the
> nutplate. This is hard on the dies and the results are not of the quality I
> would like.
> Any other alternatives? What did the oldbies do?
>
> Tom Brown RV4
> fuselage in jig, fitting floors
Tom
Use 1097AD3-3.5 also known as cheater rivets. They have a very small
head so you can countersink enough in the thin metal. The rivets aren't
structual they only need to keep the nutplate from spinning.
There are also glue on nutplates which work great but they're pretty
expensive.
--
Bud Newhall
bud(at)softcom.net
__|__
__|__ ____(+)____
____(+)____ ' '
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Tilt Canopy? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee
If I recall correctly, Van put a solid windshield on the RV-8 because of
the higher speed of the aircraft. That being the case I don't believe it
is an option.
Bill?
>--> RV-List message posted by: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
>I own an RV-4 and am contemplating building an RV-8, mostly because I need a
>project! My question is, is the RV-8 available with the standard RV-4 type
>tilting canopy?
Mike McGee
jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
The solution to this is to use the NAS1097AD3-X rivets listed in the hardware
section (page 52) of Van's April '97 Accessories Catalog. They are 1/16 heads
with 3/32 diameter shank. Work great. I use them almost exclusively. Of
course, you can do any of the things you mentioned also and they do make
dimpled platenuts, but I would image the cost would be a lot more than the
"oops" type rivets.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 1997 7:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nutplate Question
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
I am looking for alternatives in attaching k1000-08 nutplates to thin
material i.e. less than .032 where machine countersinking the base material
is impractical. Assuming you have to dimple the base material this poses the
question as to what to do with the dimple protruding out the backside ? This
situation is encountered numerous times in the floor and baggage area on the
RV4.
Does anyone manufacture a nutplate with countersunk attachment holes
with the same spacing as a normal K1000 nutplate? If so, what is the part
number and where on the big blue marble might one look to find.
Other alternatives I have considered: Adding a thick doubler plate under
the nutplate. The doubler would be machine countersunk to accept the dimple
from above. This works but adds mass and is time consuming.
Attempting to use brute force and dimple the steel ends of the
nutplate. This is hard on the dies and the results are not of the quality I
would like.
Any other alternatives? What did the oldbies do?
Tom Brown RV4
fuselage in jig, fitting floors
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
Tom,
In the Avery catalog you will find "NAS 1097-3 Reduced Countersunk
Head Rivets" these are 3/32" with a head not as deep as the AN426's .The
heads will nest in a machine countersink in .025 alum. They are great
for nutplates.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
Fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mheaps(at)direct.ca (mike heaps) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Tilt Canopy? |
--> RV-List message posted by: mheaps(at)direct.ca (mike heaps)
>--> RV-List message posted by: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
>I own an RV-4 and am contemplating building an RV-8, mostly because I need a
>project! My question is, is the RV-8 available with the standard RV-4 type
>tilting canopy? I sat in the RV-8 at Sun n Fun, and I love everything about
>the plane except the big roll bar going across my field of vision. This bugs
>the heck out of me, as I'm used to having unrestricted visibility in the
>RV-4, and I feel it is very important for safety reasons. Also it is simpler
>to build, and lighter to go with the tilt canopy. Another question; Has
>anyone finished their RV-8 tail kit yet? If so, how long did it take you? If
>you built an RV-4 before, what time-savings would you estimate is attained
>due to pre-punched parts? Thanks!
>
>Hi
Hi : My name is Mike Heaps #80280 I pick up my tail feathers Feb 10/97 and
after three or four hours per night three times a week and one day on the week
end I,am 1/2 through my wings with a little help from my friends. I,am a
first time builder so there is a little head scratching.but no big mistakes
all and all a lot of fun, and rewarding.
Mike RV880280
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Strobe Kits/Frederick Custom Airframe |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gusndale(at)aol.com
Thanks to Everyone that responded to my question regarding the
Aeroflash Strobe Kits and Frederick Custom Airframe. I decided to go with
the Aeroflash units.
For Mark Frederick: Thanks for your response online. I'll be in
touch with you this week to place my order. By the way, I got your flyer
from Don Wentz of Duckworks landing lights. He passed some out to us at a
Home Wing Builder's Group meeting last fall.
Thanks,
Dale Wotring
Vancouver, WA
RV6A finishing up the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< I am close to purchasing a used engine for my new project and the bendix
fuel control needs to be rebuilt. Does anyone have any opinions on getting
the bendix rebuilt vs. buying a new airflow performance unit? It would seem
that the cost is about the same. Would I be able to use the same flow
divider and injectors? Thanks in advance
Tom Martin >>
Tom:
Don at Airflow can fix your unit, or sell you a new one of his design. I've
used both on otherwise identical a/c, and the Airflow unit is much smoother
somehow. I know what sort of a/c you're working on from other traffic, and
you'll need a blister to fit the Airflow unit inside the cowl. Either way,
get the purge valve from Don.
Check six!
Marl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 vs RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< Mitch Faatz, San Jose CA
RV-6AQME, finishing flaps and fuel tanks, ruffling people's feathers.
>>
ME? Multi-engine? Huh?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
<< Any other alternatives? What did the oldbies do?
Tom Brown RV4
fuselage in jig, fitting floors
>>
Hello Tom,
Another alternative is to use the NAS1097AD3 rivets, or cheater rivets. You
can countersink for the head of the #3 rivet and still have a hole left in
.025 thick aluminum.
I beleive Van sells this rivet, if you can't find it elsewhere.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul A. Rosales" <prosales(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | RVator Picture Misprint.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul A. Rosales"
For those of you who've seen the current RVator, that's ED BUNDY pictured
with my wife Victoria after her first RV flight (who's O'Grady
anyway?!?). Thanks again Ed for giving her the most memorable flight of
her 300+ hours of 'passenger' time!
Paul A. Rosales
RV-6A N628PV
Lancaster, CA
Fuselage skinning in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KOZINSKI GARY <kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: V Stab Strobe fit |
--> RV-List message posted by: KOZINSKI GARY
Mal, I recently installed that strobe into the lower faring. I molded
(built up) some extra fiberglass and installed some studs into the glass
so that I would have a place to screw the strobe into. It turned out
perfect. I made a baseplate out of some spare aluminum stock as a mold
an inserted it into the faring. This put the faring in the right shape
and then just laid in some glass. Like so many other parts it takes time
but is will worth it.
Gary RV-6
20038
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fitzgerald" <theredbaron(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cleaveland tool praise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David J. Fitzgerald"
I recently purchased an RV tool kit from Cleaveland. After using my
seamers twice they pretty much shattered (I didnt think my grip was that
strong!). After talking with Cleaveland they said that there was a bad
batch of castings and they would replace them pronto. They sent me a
new pair of seamers by second day air - AND included a box with postage
pre-paid for return.
I just wanted to let everyone know that Cleaveland tools' commitment to
customer service is outstanding.
--
-----------------------------------
David Fitzgerald
RV-8 Serial #80333
theredbaron(at)earthlink.net
-----------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Ruddock <markr(at)iwl.net> |
| Subject: | RVList: Forced air systems for priming |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Ruddock
I am looking into options for safe priming. I have heard of forced air
systems and since I have a beard, respirators do not seal well enough.
If anyone knows of sources/information for forced freash air systems
please send them my way.
Thanks,
Mark Ruddock
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 vs RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue)
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
>
>
><< Mitch Faatz, San Jose CA
> RV-6AQME, finishing flaps and fuel tanks, ruffling people's feathers.
>
> >>
>ME? Multi-engine? Huh?
>
>Check six!
>Mark
Mark, I'm not sure Mitch uses it the same as me. I use it to mean My
Empennage. Who's setting the standards on this stuff anyway??
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6QME N441LP Seat Backs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MP gauge on fixed pitch prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dr John Cocker
I would appreciate the figures for Manifold Pressure and RPM for 360, with
a C/S prop.
John Cocker (Final Inspection complete)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue)
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
>
> I am looking for alternatives in attaching k1000-08 nutplates to thin
>material i.e. less than .032 where machine countersinking the base material
>is impractical. Assuming you have to dimple the base material this poses the
>question as to what to do with the dimple protruding out the backside ? This
>situation is encountered numerous times in the floor and baggage area on the
>RV4.
>(deletion)
> Other alternatives I have considered: Adding a thick doubler plate under
>the nutplate. The doubler would be machine countersunk to accept the dimple
>from above. This works but adds mass and is time consuming.
> Attempting to use brute force and dimple the steel ends of the
>(deletion)
>Tom Brown RV4
> fuselage in jig, fitting floors
Tom, before you go to all this trouble please consider what the platenuts
are for. They are there to hold a nut in place so you can screw into it.
There is no great strength required to hold a nut in place. Machine
countersinking works fine.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6QME N441LP Reserved Seat Backs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <71341.3505(at)CompuServe.COM> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott A. Jordan" <71341.3505(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Flight instruction in RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Mike Seager will be on the road to give flight instruction in the RV6. If I
can book 10 people in the Ft Worth area he will stop here. Cost is $65 hour
and will be given at Hicks Airfield (T67) a week after Oshkosh. For more info
and to get your name on the list call George Orndorff at 817-439-3280. This
is a good time to get that time in a RV6 that you always wanted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Accomodating Instrument Placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry D. Hoatson"
> fit but you have to define well the "keep out areas". If you wish the .DWG
> file I can send it to you.
>
> -GV
Gary,
I'd like to see the file
Thanks,
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.H.Mole -Richard Mole" <R.H.Mole(at)open.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Still air speed from GPS read out of ground speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "R.H.Mole -Richard Mole"
There was a thread a while ago about using a GPS to determine still air
speed.
The method was to fly an arbitrary GPS trackT1 and record ground speed G1
Then fly a track at + or - 90 degs and record G2
Finally fly a third track opposite to T1 and record G3
A formula was given to calculate the still air speed V where V is 1/2 of
the square root of S, where
S = G1 sq + G2 sq + G3 sq + G1sq * G3 sq / G2 sq
This is fine and checking this equation was fun (sort of).
The point of this posting is to say that provided you want to know the still
air speed to real world accuracy then a much simpler method suffices. The
method is based on taking advantage of the geometry inherent in the
situation as follows;
Forget the second track T2 and G2 entirely.
Find G1 by heading into your best guess for the wind direction, and also
note down T1 (both from GPS)
Find G3 by tracking T3 a reciprocal track to T1 (again from your GPS)
Just average G1 and G3 in order to find your estimate of the still air speed
V
This will be an underestimate of V, falling between 99% and 100% of the
real value of V
PROVIDED ONLY THAT the drift is less than 8 degrees.
If you fly Tracks T1 and T3 accurately then the drift is of course identical
on each leg
If you can't judge 8 degrees by eye then check that your compass heading (it
has been swung hasn't it) and GPS track are within 8 degrees.
The magic number of 8 degrees was chosen here as it gives an error of 1%
(mathematically the more precise drift limit is 8.1 degrees in fact).
But the smaller the drift the better the estimate from averaging G1 and G3
If your drift is within 4 degrees, because you are better at finding the
wind direction, the error in just averaging G1 and G3 falls to less than
0.25% (folks, thats' just a mere half knot in 200).
To summarise:
If you are heading smack into the wind (on either T1 or T3) then there is no
drift and the average of G1 and G3 is exactly correct.
But if there is small amount of drift then the average of G1 and G3
marginally underestimates the real value of the still air speed.
So why bother with a correct but complicated procedure, if you can get an
answer that has real world accuracy by a simpler method?
Richard Mole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Wing Mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dr John Cocker
John, I wish you had posted your letter a week earlier, it would have saved
me a lot of trouble.
Putting in the bolts for the wing has to be the most frustrating job on the
RV 6A in three years.
I spent two and a half days bent over double, trying to put bolts in
inaccessible places, only to find they were too short or too long. The only
up side is that I can now get part time work as a contortionist.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau +1 +1 908 957 6611) |
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Acting..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau +1 +1 908
957 6611)
Dave and all,
> There I was, out
> of habit, taxiing around at very slow speeds and holding full up elevator,
> and essentially 'flying' it all the way to the tiedown. Several times the
> CFI commented "This isn't a taildragger". I chuckled at how much less
> skill and attentivness it took to taxi the archer.
>
Nothing wrong with this type of behavior in most light single tri-gears.
And I believe that one should continue to keep a high level of
attentivenes until the aircraft is tied down....
I was taught that into the wind taxiing will full elevator will help keep
some weight off the nose wheel, and cause less wear and tear on the
tire/oleo strut. Downwind is the opposite (elevator forward). (this is
good for windspeeds less than that required for a 0 length ground run....)
8<}
This also goes hand-in-hand with proper positioning of the ailerons when
taxiing ANY small aircraft in any amount of wind. Sometime those who fly
high wing aircraft might want to experiment with aileron deflection when
taxiing crosswind or with a quartering crosswind by moving upwind
aileron up then down, and notice that position of the wingtip changes
when changing the aileron reflex (especially noticeable in high wing
aircraft e.g. C-15X, C-172's, etc.). The ideal is to keep the wing tip
into the wind down, and move the ailerons in such a way as to do this
throughout the taxi route.
Learning in a tail dragger should cause you to bring along habits that
will make "driving to your parking spot" safer in either conventional
or tri-geared aircraft.
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
RV-6A Front H.S. spar started....no priming yet!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Electrical System Checklist |
Kitfox List
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/I have planned to fit fuses to my 6A as per your recommendation. =
/When I do the pre-flight on my Cherokee one of the things on =
/the check list is "are any breakers popped?". That is am I =
/taking off in an aeroplane with a faulty circuit the last guy =
/didn't notice or didn't tell me about.
Leo my friend, this is an excellent point that validates my
frustration with the way certified airplanes are sold to
the flying public . . . =
/Do you have a repacement for this item for a fuse equipped plane? =
/Do you have a swing down fuse board or do you recommend an =
/alternative check list procedure? Knowing you I know you will =
/have thought this through but the answer is not immediately =
/apparent to my cursory examination of the issue.
Somewhere we were taught the mind-set that the published
checklist is sanctified, all-inclusive and by virtue of
government blessing is carved in stone. In accepting this
we've been assured that going by the book will save us
from all manner of evil.
Looking for the popped breaker is certainly not a bad thing
to do but what does it tell you as a pilot who is about to
fire up the engine and go? It says one and one thing only,
"before the airplane was shut down after the last flight, =
there were no faults on the line donwstream of that breaker
that would cause it to open." What does that tell you about
the piece of equipment that the breaker feeds? Almost nothing
of value. In no way does it guarantee proper function of the
piece of equipment.
Your checklist should be EXPANDED to include the observation
and/or exercise of all the equipment items deemed necessary for
your intended flight. Nav light breaker in? Okay, how about
a walk around to see that all there lights are lit? Better
yet, how about an ammeter with enough resolution to tell that
three bulbs worth of load came on line when you flipped the
switch? The same philosophy can and should be applied to
virtually every equipment item. It's far more useful to spend
the time to see if the thing is really working than to =
accomplish the time-honored inspection of the breaker panel.
I don't recommend swing down panels . . . you can't tell
if a plastic fuse is blown just by looking at the top of it
anyhow. In the very rare event that the fuse IS blown,
there's far more work to be done than to simply replace it
and HOPE it doesn't happen again soon. You need to find
out and fix the problem.
The government approved check list should be considered a
MINIMUM not an OPTIMUM document. For amateur built airplanes,
there's no reason to tolerate nuisance tripping of any form
of circuit protection so if you find that a fues or breaker
does occasionally see a NORMAL load that is too big for the
breaker, then put in a LARGER breaker and wire to make the
problem go away.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
Kitfox List
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Make sure that you test those low cost non aircraft cooling fans for R=
FI =
>before you install them. I tried to install one of those one time and i=
t =
>produced so much noise in the electronics that I had to remove it. =
>>Anyway, I worked on Office Machine repair for about 6 years =
>>and one of the biggest problems we had with any digital =
>>equipment including memory typewriters, computers, printers, =
>>etc., was with the cooling fans sending spikes out and messing =
>>up everything. =
>>I ALWAYS carried 2 fans for every piece of equipment I serviced =
>>because even the new ones sometimes would be bad. Some of these =
>>itty bitty motors cost $200-$300 so cost doesn't mean everything
>>.......Just, if you do install one and all your electronics start =
>>doing some strange things, check the fan.
Virtually all small d.c. fans are really a.c. driven motors with
little solid state, d.c. to a.c. inverters built in. They come
in thousands of sizes and ratings to accomodate the consumer electroni=
cs
businesses . . . especially computers.
If you find that any of these fans makes some noise or affects
a piece of avionics, it's not difficult to add the necessary filters
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
=
right at the fan to fix the problem. Most modern designs include
adequate filtering but if a fan causes difficulties, let's talk
filters before you rip it out . . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | keirsrr(at)nbed.nb.ca |
--> RV-List message posted by: keirsrr(at)nbed.nb.ca
unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pondering the essential bus concept |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Moore"
Tim Lewis posted the following question regarding the use of a split bus:
> The feature of this system I really like is it rescues the pilot from
> the single point of failure represented by the battery contactor. In
> attempting to adopt this design, however, I'm finding that nearly my
> entire electrical system ends up on the "essential" side of the
> essential/non-essential sheet. I'm considering using a single bus,
> but providing an alternate feed path (switched and fused, of course)
> to the bus that avoids the battery contactor. In the event of
> battery contactor failure I would switch on the alternate feed path.
> In the event of alternator failure (as annunciated by my electronic
> engine monitor which also monitors bus voltage) I'd simply shut off
> all non-essential loads (as dictated by my needs at the time) and
> land as soon as practical.
>
> Any comments on this idea?
Tim - You might consider this.
There are failure mechanisms other than a battery contactor failed open.
Consider shorts, alternator faults, and loose wires anywhere else on the
single bus. The split bus concept has the advantage of isolating your
essential loads from many failure modes on the non-vital stuff.
This will only work, however, if you are willing to keep your essential
loads to a minimum. Define what is needed from a "mission critical"
standpoint. If you plan on a lot of IMC flying, the list may be long. If
primarily VFR, then what do you really need in an emergency? Fuel booster
pump, elevator trim, flaps, one radio, fuel gauge, oil pressure, maybe a
GPS. The idea is just enough to get you to an airport. Scratch the radio
and GPS if they have their own battery backup (eg., a handheld).
I don't think it is a good idea to figure out your vital loads in the air
with an electrical fault or alternator failure on your hands. Do this on
the ground, now, and use the split bus to define your actions. Once you
know the loads, then you can make an accurate assessment of the battery
capacity to provide for those loads.
Dave Moore - Finishing Kit RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | Nose Wheels vs. Taildraggers |
--> RV-List message posted by: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson,
Eric)
Hey guys, or at least the ones that were around then, just for my
curiosity, what did pilots argue about before there were planes with nose
wheels?
By the way, I got a checkout in a citabria a couple of years back. Stopped
shaving my legs soon after. Har, Har, Har, Yuk, Yuk, just couldn't resist
stirring it a little. Flame Away.
Eric Henson
Dana Point, CA
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Accomodating Instrument Placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
> Regarding instrument interference behind panel; Lower the major six
> instruments and put the switches and small stuff at the top. It seems to
> be working for me on my mockup at least.
Is it a slider or tip-up? If a slider, remember that the higher
you go on the panel, the more inacessible it will be once everything
is buttoned up. Of course if you have a tip-up you are in good shape
either way.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
The forward skin on the bottom of the -6 fuselage made of .040. There was
some talk of smoking rivets after a while. I drilled most of that area with
#30 drill thinking I would counter sink the braces etc and dimpling the skin
would keep the rivets from working in that area. Several fellow builders
with about same level of building experience have question that. None of us
are really experts. But after much discussion I have been fairly well
convinced now that the better way is to counter sink the skin and use some
"pro seal" in conjunction with the rivets to keep the rivets from working.
But what do we know.
So what do you fellows with some back ground in this think?
Have A Great Day!
Denny
retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com
RV-6/ Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Pondering the essential bus. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/Lights might be essential to making you visible, if only for =
/the few seconds you need to switch them on.
If you've experienced alternator failure and made a
voluntary switch to essential only for power conservation
you can always bring the battery contactor back up
for a few seconds to do anything else that's not on
the essential bus including lower landing gear. The
concept of the essential bus is NOT to accomodate =
your every comfort but to MAXIMIZE you chances for
comfortable completion of flight . . .
Exterior lights help you in no significant way to get the
airplane on the ground. Once a tense situation has developed
INSIDE the cockpit, the probablity of that being the reason
for a bent airplane and busted bod is several orders of
magnitude greater than the probability of running into
another airplane . . .
/How about using landing lights for the last 30 seconds =
/of the approach? Would they be essential or not?
What are you going to do if the bulb burns out? Can you
land the airplane without a landing light? I landing lights
are part of your essential list, you'd better plan on two.
/2) If you had to go thru a cloud layer at night to land you =
/might need your wing leveler/autopilot to help you for a minute =
/or so. At that moment is it essential or not?
How's your needle ball and airspeed technique? Are your
vacuum operated gyros still up? Given that the wing leveler
is far more complex that either of the other two systems
makes it less reliable . . . if you're putting eggs into
baskets, I'll suggest that good partial panel technique
is far more dependable than ANYTHING electric.
3) I have the VM1000 telling me the electrical system usage and =
engine status. Is it essential or not?
When was the last time an engine quit because you didn't
know what the oil pressure was? Electrical system usage
under the concept I describe is a KNOWN quantity by design,
there's nothing else you need to display about it. EXCEPTION:
unless you plan to do periodic capacity checks to flag
battery replacement at 1/2 capacity, then a panel mounted
voltemeter on the essential bus is advisable . . . it's
your battery's gas gage . . . but that's a poor alternative.
The only thing the voltmeter can do is tell you when you've
run out of snort and how valuable is THAT piece of information?
Remember the VW's with the 1 gal reserve tank and no fuel
gage? PLAN your electrical system so that when you go into
battery-only operations, the outcome is ASSURED. Then maintain
the system so your faith in it is not compromised.
/4) In icing conditions you might need the heated pitot/static =
/in a pinch. Would you consider it essential or not?
If your flying will include a high order of probablity for this =
condition you need to plan on dual alternators and much better =
redundancy than battery only ops with an essential bus. The =
situation you describe is two failures . . . alternator crapped
out followed by flight into potential icing.
/5) A transponder might help ATC find you at night in unfamiliar =
/territory and help steer you to the nearest pea patch. Is it =
/essential to succesful completion of the flight or not?
I'll suggest that a transponder is the #1 communications device
for battery only ops. If you're really busy dealing with =
pilot duties, squawing a 7600 and getting on with your business
is probably the most useful thing you can communicate. Granted,
somebody on the ground MAY be able to assist you but don't
PLAN on it. Have the worst case scenarios all worked out in
you own mind. If it turns out not to be so bad, great. But be
prepared to do it all by yourself.
/6) I have a KLX-135A and you can't separate the power to the GPS =
/from the power to the comm, so if the comm is essential to declare =
/an emergency, the GPS goes along for the ride, or they both are =
/non-essential if you know where you are and don't need to talk =
/to anyone.
You didn't read the article. Your primary nav radio is third
on the list after panel flood and turn coordinator. A comm receiver
dosen't draw much and can be along for the ride too. Just keep
the talking to a minimum. Pressing the mic button ups the current
draw considerably.
/7) What about your boost pump on a hot day in Gila Bend and you =
/have to go around? Is it essential or not. What about power to =
/the fuel gauges? E or NE? ad nauseum, but you get the idea.
Sure . . . I put boost pumps on the e-bus . . . enroute they're
not likely to be needed during battery only ops . . takes two
failures on same flight: alternator -and- engine driven fuel pump.
In approach phase, you've got the field in sight. Concerns for
navigation and communicating are now secondary. Turn on anything
you need including the battery master to bring the main bus back up.
If you've got battery left to do the task, everyone is happy. If
you've been a poor steward of battery energy getting to the airport,
then you're pretty much SOL anyhow. But at least over an airport is
the BEST place to have an EMERGENCY. I'll suggest that the system
design and operating philosophy I've described is the best way
to forstall the emergency from developing in less friendly =
environments.
/I consider Bob Nuckoll's non-essential/essential bus =
/split with diode isolation to be a great concept, and =
/I do believe that a two battery system is necessary =
/for redundancy for ships with electronic ignition, however, =
/I am not yet ready to commit to what IS and what IS NOT =
/essential in an aircraft with conventional magneto ignitions, =
/without knowing under what the circumstances a given failure =
/occurs.
EXACTLY.... pre-define your conditions. Under alternator
out condtions, you can still run ANYTHING you like. If you
loose the battery contactor, you're options are more limited.
Dual batteries with dual contactors eliminates this probability.
Have you considered putting in a pair of 17 a.h. batteries
and two contactors even if you don't have electronic ignition?
The essential bus concept as I've described it is not about
dealing with every contingency. It's about good stewardship
of a finite amount of energy in a battery -and- getting the
pilot to think about these things in advance and have a simple
plan: Flip two switches and be able to COUNT on enough endurance
to use up whatever fuel may be on board.
If the way you intend to use your airplane makes you nervous
about system reliablity, perhaps the system is under-designed.
We're not cloning 172's. We're building the most advanced
single engine airplanes in the world and for the moment,
government chooses not to dictate how we do it. Your questions,
concerns and even fears can and should all be addressed.
/I can turn off the non-essentials myself within =
/5 seconds of seeing the low volts light come on and with =
/a 25Ah RG battery I will not have a problem maximizing the =
/use of the remaining energy to the sucessful completion of =
/my flight. I do not need an essential bus. What I have =
/is a managable main bus. The greater the degree of systems =
/integration, the more difficult it becomes to realize the =
/clear divide between "essential" and "non-essential" functions.
If you've truly have lots of "essential" stuff, I think you'd
be better off going all electric, put a 20 amp vacuum pump
mounted alternator on and run a fully redundant pair of systems.
=
/Further, I like to use a pullable 50A circuit breaker =
/left normally open and tucked away just under the panel to =
/be my Master Bypass in case the Master contactor dies. =
/This will support all loads except starter.
Bad news . . . this adds another unprotected piece of wire
between battery and panel . . why bother to make it a breaker?
It might as well be a switch. It also adds weight and parts
count to your airplane.
Keep the plan simple. Be a pilot, not a systems analyist.
I'm reading a book called "The Naked Pilot" which is a recounting
of how things went bad in the cockpit of transport category
airplanes loaded with people . . . I now know of TWO =
perfectly good airplanes that were flown into the ground because
of a failed light bulb. These incidents occured in airplanes
with three to four professional flyers in the cockpit!
=
I'm reminded of a famous quotation repeated with great reverence
these days: "Those who ignore history are doomed to repeat it."
Don't recall who said it but one cannot argue with the logic.
I was over looking at a problem on the Bonanzas a few weeks
ago and I'm very disappointed at what's happend to the A-36.
Somebody seems to think that airplane ought to be a poor
mans's Learjet. I think we've ruined a perfectly good airplane
before it ever got out the door. It's uncessarily complex and
for some, it's what they want. For most, they are piloting
environments waiting to demonstrate for some pilots where =
their limits are. Don't make the job any harder than it
needs to be.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | johntate(at)essex1.com (John Tate) |
| Subject: | Re: Pondering the essential bus concept |
--> RV-List message posted by: johntate(at)essex1.com (John Tate)
> The Aeroelectric Connection is must read material for anyone
> contemplating building an aircraft.
>
> -Gary VanRemortel
Gary, How do I get ahold of the Aeroelectric Connection? Is it a book or
what and who is the author?
John Tate RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Strobe Kits/Frederick Custom Airframe |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
Hi Mark. I'd like some more info on the Aeroflash lights.
Is it possible to get this unit with one remote power supply instead of
the 2 wingtip supplies? Cost?
Also does your unit have the rear facing white light built in to the tip
lights? Or one light that goes into the tail?
Please let me know, and include prices for all different configurations
to help me figure out which way to go.
Thanks,
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: two RV6A's, one T hanger |
--> RV-List message posted by: mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler)
I saw one multi-aircraft in one hanger arrangement that used a hyraulic lift
much like a fixed fork lift. It had three arms to support the wheels of one
aircraft, and then it was cranked high enough to allow the second aircraft to
be stored directly underneath it.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Accomodating Instrument Placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies
GV,
I'd love to have the file. I presume I could read this with AutoCad Light?
One of the areas I have seen people attack the forward bulkead is behind the
radios. Some NavComs just seem deeper than the gap behind the panel. I take
it you have found radios that are not so deep?
Cheers,
Leo
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
><< I suspect that you are not the first person to notice this. I am at the
> stage of contemplating the area behind the panel and wondering what it is
> save to remove. Several of the IFR 6As that I have seen have swiss cheese
> like arrangements of both these ribs and the bulkhead immediately forward of
> the panel. I have not seen much comment on this from any source and would be
> delighted to hear from the completed builders how they coped with these
> restraints. >>
>
>Leo-
>
>I used CAD to optimize the position of everything on the panel with the
>bracing just as the plans show. With clever manipulation and placing the
>shorter instruments in certain places, you can make a nice balanced appearing
>panel. I have full gyros and all the goodies except Stormscope. They can
>fit but you have to define well the "keep out areas". If you wish the .DWG
>file I can send it to you.
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RVList: Forced air systems for priming |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
Mark,
The rig you're looking for is called the Hobbyair. Gil Alexander and I
co-own one and I can vouch for its effectiveness. It's made by Fastech
Corp., 24 Center Drive, Gilberts, IL 60136. You can reach them at (800)
HOBAIR1 or (708) 836-1633. Ask them for the neat little brochure they
have on their products. I, too, have a beard, and when I use the
Hobbyair I don't even detect the scent of paint and we don't own a hood,
just masks.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MP gauge on fixed pitch prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
Bob,
I extracted the following from the "Avco Lycoming Operator's Manual",
Revised Jan., 1977, Curve No. 9541-C, "O320 and IO320 Series". I have the
manual for my C172 with O320E2D.
Reading the 112 HP (75% of 150 HP) intercepts on the Sea Level graph I
obtain:
RPM MP
2700 23.0
2600 23.6
2500 24.1
2400 24.7
2300 25.4
2200 26.4
2100 27.6
2000 28.9
>From the Altitude Performance (standard atmosphere) graph, I obtain:
Alt Press MP RPM
4000 25.4 2200
9000 22.0 1550
Thus it seems that at sea level the sum of RPM/100 + MP = 49 and for a
couple of points at altitude the sum is about 48. The graph is quite
complicated and not easily reduced to a couple of sentences of text.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: Bob Skinner <navix.net!BSkinner(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: MP gauge on fixed pitch prop
> Date: Saturday, May 31, 1997 11:24 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>
> Glenn,
> I have a M.P. gauge in my 150 hp RV-6. According to an article in the
> RVator, you can determine 75% power by adding the first two digets of the
> rpm to the m.p. If the figures add up to 48, it equalls 75% power. I
took
> the figures from the article and interpolated (?) and came up with the
> "inbetween numbers" of:
> 40 48.0%
>
> Hopefully, this is correct as I've been flying my RV using these
figures.
> Manifold pressure can also be used to help determine the health of the
engine.
> By the way, I do have the Lycoming manual that has the power charts for
> the 150 hp. However, the print quality is poor and very small and even a
> magnifying glass is no help to my bi-focalled eyes. Does anyone on the
list
> have this info and would you be willing to make a copy for me? At the
very
> least, would someone be willing to use the above figures and compare them
to
> "the book". I was just reading AOPA and in one of the articles, they
> indicated that a IO-360 in a Mooney would be at 75% power at 4,000 feet
when
> operated at 23"/2,700 rpms, 24"/2,600 rpms or 26"/2,400 rpms. These
figures
> add up to 50 so, which one is correct? Have I been operating under 75%
> power all this time?
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
What is the opinion on spade fuses? Is there some reason why should not use
them?
They were recommended by pilot friend who runs a starter/alternator/etc
repair shop, but I just want a couple more opinions.
Thanks!
Have A Great Day!
Denny
retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com
RV-6/ Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Pondering the essential bus. |
--> RV-List message posted by: mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler)
> I'm reminded of a famous quotation repeated with great reverence
> these days: "Those who ignore history are doomed to repeat it."
> Don't recall who said it but one cannot argue with the logic.
Santayana
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheels vs. Taildraggers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
> RV-List message posted by: EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric)
>Hey guys, or at least the ones that were around then, just for my
>curiosity, what did pilots argue about before there were planes with nose
>wheels?
This argument reminds me of Mother Theresa and The Pope arguing over
whether God has a beard or He's clean shaven! Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 vs RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
> >ME? Multi-engine? Huh?
> >
> >Check six!
> >Mark
>
> Mark, I'm not sure Mitch uses it the same as me. I use it to mean My
> Empennage. Who's setting the standards on this stuff anyway??
In our Builder's group roster, we use the convention PTWFE, for:
P plans only
T tail
W wings
F fuselage
E finish/engine
We use lower case if still working on the subkit, upper case if done.
I am working on my finish kit so I am PTWFe
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sink or |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>The forward skin on the bottom of the -6 fuselage made of .040. There was
>some talk of smoking rivets after a while. I drilled most of that area with
>#30 drill thinking I would counter sink the braces etc and dimpling the skin
>would keep the rivets from working in that area. Several fellow builders
>with about same level of building experience have question that. None of us
>are really experts. But after much discussion I have been fairly well
>convinced now that the better way is to counter sink the skin and use some
>"pro seal" in conjunction with the rivets to keep the rivets from working.
>Denny
Denny,
I sure wouldn't machine countersink the .040" if you've drilled to #30. I
think the minimum thickness is .052". I think you'd be much better off
dimpling the skin and either machine countersinking (preferred) or dimpling
the .063" (?) angle. As for the proseal, I don't intend to do this on my
next RV but I'm sure you'll find some other opinions on this.
Bob Skinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin & Carol Marlow" <kcmarlow(at)ix.netcom.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin & Carol Marlow"
unsubscribe
See Ya,
KLM, CJM, & HNM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Fritz
unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
Hi
I saw a picture of Chief Aircraft's RV-6 Panel. It looks as if they
made a taller modified panel that sits lower that the plans specify.
Would this modification require shortening the sticks?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
--
MZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel Planner V2.0 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
If anybody out there has purchased Panel Planner V2.0 you may have
noticed that the RV-6 panel on there is NOT correct.
Interactive Solutions has provided me with the updated panel. They said
I may distribute it to other users of this program. E-mail me if you
would like the RV_6.wmf sent to you.
Glenn Gordon
flyers@anet-chi.com
--
MZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001)
subscribe info(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sink or |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies
Denny,
There has been some considerable previous discussion on this and the
archives may be helpful. I believe the recommendation from Van's is to use
1/8 rivets and dimple NOT countersink for these. The "working" of the rivets
is probably due to vibration from the exhaust plume and most solutions aim
at increasing the stiffness of the floor area. Some people have added
stiffners, centre boxes and false floors. My understanding is that there
have been no reported problems with the planes built using the first
mentioned solution.
Leo
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>The forward skin on the bottom of the -6 fuselage made of .040. There was
>some talk of smoking rivets after a while. I drilled most of that area with
>#30 drill thinking I would counter sink the braces etc and dimpling the skin
>would keep the rivets from working in that area. Several fellow builders
>with about same level of building experience have question that. None of us
>are really experts. But after much discussion I have been fairly well
>convinced now that the better way is to counter sink the skin and use some
>"pro seal" in conjunction with the rivets to keep the rivets from working.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MP gauge on fixed pitch prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
>
>Bob,
>I extracted the following from the "Avco Lycoming Operator's Manual",
>Revised Jan., 1977, Curve No. 9541-C, "O320 and IO320 Series". I have the
>manual for my C172 with O320E2D.
>
>Reading the 112 HP (75% of 150 HP) intercepts on the Sea Level graph I
>obtain:
>
>RPM MP
>2700 23.0
>2600 23.6
>2500 24.1
>2400 24.7
>2300 25.4
>2200 26.4
>2100 27.6
>2000 28.9
>
>>From the Altitude Performance (standard atmosphere) graph, I obtain:
>
>Alt Press MP RPM
>4000 25.4 2200
>9000 22.0 1550
>
>Thus it seems that at sea level the sum of RPM/100 + MP = 49 and for a
>couple of points at altitude the sum is about 48. The graph is quite
>complicated and not easily reduced to a couple of sentences of text.
>
>Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
Dennis,
Thanks for the info. Yes, those graphs are something. In fact, I'm not
sure I could understand them even if I could see them. Used to know all
that stuff, 20 years ago. I haven't owned an airplane in the past 14 years
that had published performance data---1976 Maule M-5, 1952 90 hp Super Cub
or 1948 Cessna 170. The data just wasn't "part of the package".
I do wonder about the 9000 figures. I pull 22.5" m.p. at 8,500' (9,700
P.A.) and am turning at 2610 rpms. The 1550 rpm seems low.
Anyway, thanks for the interesting information.
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: two RV6A's, one T hanger |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
AH HA!!!! Finally a definite plus for the taildragger!!!!! Do like they did
with all of the excess at the end of WW2. Tilt them over on the nose--that
way you can get more in a smaller floor area!!!!
I remember as a kid seeing this with something that looked like a piper
cub in GI paint. There were many of them in each building.
See, that is a negative for the tri gear----can't tip them over on the nose.
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Top
>What is the opinion on spade fuses? Is there some reason why should not use
>them?
I donn't know whether John Marples used em on both of the 6s he built, but
I know he uses one on his main circuit on the one he is flying. It is
mounted in an accessible, but out of sight location so he can pull it and
take it with him when he has to leave his airplane unsecured. (The rest of
his fuses are in a neat little pull out tray below his panel. It will
eventually wear out, but he has only had to pull it 4-5 times. Sounded like
a good idea to me.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/What is the opinion on spade fuses? Is there some =
/reason why should not use them?
/They were recommended by pilot friend who runs a =
/starter/alternator/etc repair shop, but I just want =
/a couple more opinions.
I believe them to be an excellent, low cost and
very reliable alternative to breakers and other
forms of branch circuit protection in airplanes.
=
Please consider using Bussmann bus-bar and fuse
block combos. They should be available from any
Bussmann distributor. They are configured for
6 through 20 fuses in increments of 2. B&C
Specialty Products stocks them for me in 10
and 20 slot sizes. You can reach them at 316.283.8000
or check electronics suppliers for Bussmann part
numbers 15600-xx-20 where XX is number of fuse
slots ranging from 06 to 20.
Avoid the in-line, single fuse holders for the spade
type fuses. I've yet to see one that was very sound
mechanically. For single in-line fusing, use Bussmann
HKP fuse holders and 1.25 x .25 glass cartridge fuses.
This holder should be limited to about 15 amps
in aircraft service. Single in-line fusing requirements
above 30 amps can be handled with Hypalon fuse links
(like on cars) or bolted in JJS or JJN series Bussmann
fuses covered with heat shrink.
For additional information see my article in Sport Aviation
for March 1993, page 86.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)A.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-6 vs RV-6A Humour |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
I said:
>>Real pilots not only *fly* taildraggers, they do carrier landings in them ;-)
And Tom Velvick replied:
>Well, my tail is dragging from all the late hours I am spending in the
>garage and I do plan to carry her. My question is, if I decide to go with
>a 6a instead of a 6, will you still let me come over and drool over your
>N601DB again?
Of course you can Tom! I was just trying to inject some levity into a
discussion that had gotten far too serious.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
installing electrical and Avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Indiana RV Builders Gathering, June 7th |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank Smidler
2nd Annual Indiana RV Builders (& Enthusiast)Gathering June 7th at
Shawnee Airport, Bloomfield IN
The second annual gathering of Indiana RV Builders will take place at
Shawnee Airport in Bloomfield, Indiana, 20 miles southwest of
Bloomington. Our Host again this year will be Mike Wonder. All RV and
homebuilt airplane enthusiasts are welcome.
The gathering will again be in conjunction with the EAA Chapters 83
(Terra Haute) and 650 (Bloomington) annual combined cook out. We will
eat around noon so bring a covered dish. If your flying in (anything)
and its inconvenient to bring a covered dish, dont worry about it there
will be plenty. Mike will provide the dogs and mad cow burgers (its
all right for us to eat them, we,re already plane
crazy).
For those of you who havent started your RV we will have an informal
Sheet Metal Work Shop from 9:00 to 11:00 AM. This will be a basic hands
own try of working with metal and pounding a few rivets so that you can
see how easy it really is.
In the afternoon Mike is planning a spot landing contest and some
demonstration flights of various aircraft, including plenty of RVs. We
are presently expecting Jim Winnings RV-4, Max Shanklins RV-6, John
Marshalls RV-6, Dave Sloans RV-6A, Jim Nolans RV-4 and Tom Utterbacks
Harmon Rocket. We hope to see additional RVs stop by. Also expected
at the gathering are several interesting airplanes including Steve
Johnsons Beech Staggerwing, Dick Leftwichs Waco Taperwing, Tom Boone
and Dave Baers 450 HP Stearman.
If your working on an RV project bring you scrap book for everyone to
see. If we can find volunteers we will try to arrange for the builders
who have not yet flown in a RV to get a ride. This should be a lot of
fun and informative.
After most of the days activities and when the flying is done the Beer
Light with come on for a little socializing, hanger flying and outright
lying. Bring a sleeping bag for a little space on the hanger floor or
bring a tent or camper to stay night.
The airport phone # is 812-384-9016. Ill see you there.
Frank Smidler
smidler(at)dcwi.com
765-538-3166
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: RVList: Forced air systems for priming |
--> RV-List message posted by: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
>
>Mark,
>
>The rig you're looking for is called the Hobbyair. Gil Alexander and I
>co-own one and I can vouch for its effectiveness. It's made by Fastech
>Corp., 24 Center Drive, Gilberts, IL 60136. You can reach them at (800)
>HOBAIR1 or (708) 836-1633.
Used mine yesterday while doing some priming and would NOT be without it.
It was a still cool day and shot some stuff outside and smelled nothing but
fresh air. MAJOR improvement over the good old respirator: there is no
problem having the right filter for what you are spraying as there is no
need. If you are going to do any painting, (self-etching two-part primers),
get one. Maybe some builders around you will want to pitch in and share.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
A friend with an RV-6 is looking for a supplier for the AC Aircraft Spin-on
Oil Filter 0F53A P/N 25010542. I don't know the details, but he says this is
the only filter that will work; the champions have the built in nut on the
end that makes them impossible to install, I guess. He wants to buy a case or
more. Address or phone number of supplier much appreciated! MAlexan533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bennett(at)healey.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: counter sink or |
--> RV-List message posted by: bennett(at)healey.com.au
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
>
> The forward skin on the bottom of the -6 fuselage made of .040. There was
> some talk of smoking rivets after a while. I drilled most of that area with
> #30 drill thinking I would counter sink the braces etc and dimpling the skin
> would keep the rivets from working in that area. Several fellow builders
> with about same level of building experience have question that. None of us
> are really experts. But after much discussion I have been fairly well
> convinced now that the better way is to counter sink the skin and use some
> "pro seal" in conjunction with the rivets to keep the rivets from working.
>
> But what do we know.
>
> So what do you fellows with some back ground in this think?
I used all #30 rivets with dimpled skin. I won't use countersinking
if I can get away with dimpling.
I also bent up some 3/4" channel, rivetted it to the skin, and laid a
floor on top with screws and platenuts. It's unbelievably rigid
and will never allow the drumming which causes smoking rivets. Weight
penalty is 5 lb, but I overdesigned it using .040".
Yes, I had to raise the rudder pedals 3/4", no big deal.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheels vs. Taildraggers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Boris
>
>Hey guys, or at least the ones that were around then, just for my
>curiosity, what did pilots argue about before there were planes with nose wheels?
>
Hand-propping. Only pencilnecks use starters.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCHRICK_Mark/usa_carrollton_tx(at)usx011.stm.com |
Importance: High
| Subject: | For SALE: 76' Decathlon 8KCAB |
--> RV-List message posted by: SCHRICK_Mark/usa_carrollton_tx(at)usx011.stm.com
--openmail-part-00e2b80e-00000001
1976 Decathlon 8KCAB
1350TTAF
Lycoming 0-320 (150 Hp) Strong Engine
484 SMOH
Compression HIGH (77,78,76,77)
FULL inverted system
Constant Speed Prop
Apollo 760 COMM
King KT-76A Transponder
G-meter
EGT/CHT
(2) 5-point harnesses
Gap Seals
Spades
Wheel pants
Fresh Cover 1989
2 parachutes available
Annual: April 97 extensive ($2000) New seat AD, cables,ect...
Logs available by fax or mail
Red/ White/ Blue stars and stripes scheme from factory
Book value: $47,000 plus ; $39,500 Low book
Asking: $41,500
Mark Schrick
1397 Boysea Drive
San Jose, Ca 95118
(408) 266-1599 Phone/Fax
--openmail-part-00e2b80e-00000001
FROM: SCHRICK_Mark/usa_carrollton_ca@usx011
djason(at)ix.netcom.com,
rv-list-request(at)matronics.com,
rv-list(at)matronics.com,
rv-list-request(at)matronics.com,
cmadden(at)wwi.net,
rstear(at)mipos2.intel.com
--openmail-part-00e2b80e-00000001--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RMI Micro Monitor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Cafgef(at)aol.com
Call RMI up and ask them all the questions you want to. They will either
straighten you out or have you box it up and send it back to RMI. They will
trouble shoot the unit and fix anything and send it back to you for the price
of shipping it to them. Real nice people to work with. That is what I did
and they found all the bad solder joints I missed.
Gene; Putting in a glove compartment in the panel cause it's too cold to trim
canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Tilt Canopy (Empennage Build Times) |
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
The following was recently asked:
Another question; Has anyone finished their RV-8 tail kit yet? If so, how
long did it take you? If you built an RV-4 before, what time-savings would
you estimate is attained
due to pre-punched parts? Thanks!
Okay you asked for it:
COMPONENT RV-6 TIME RV-8 TIME
Horizontal Stab 77 34
Vertical Stab 11 14
(I don't know why it took
longer)
Rudder 25 20
Right Elevator 27 14
Left Elevator 47 23
Total 187
105 or 44% faster
I built my RV-6 tail in 1988, therefore it was a very early example plus I
virtually forgot everything I learned back then. Experience may have played
some part in the lower RV-8 hours but I don't think it was significant.
Another conclusion I can make is the improvements in the RV-8 tail allowed
me to avoid many of the mistakes I made the first time around which saved
time. The RV-8 tail is vastly superior.
Rick McBride
(Wasting time on time again)
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
<< A friend with an RV-6 is looking for a supplier for the AC Aircraft
Spin-on
Oil Filter 0F53A P/N 25010542. I don't know the details, but he says this is
the only filter that will work; the champions have the built in nut on the
end that makes them impossible to install, I guess. He wants to buy a case
or
more. Address or phone number of supplier much appreciated! >>
If anybody finds these filters PLEASE LET ME KNOW! I have been looking as
well.
The Champion filters will fit but you have to cut-off its nuts, er, the nut
and file what remains down to the safety wire anchors.
The lesson here to RV-6 builders, put that darn firewall recess in when you
build your firewall. In time I will retrofit mine, but in the mean time,
changing the filter is a pain in the @$$.
BTW, I found a great way to remove the filer without making a mess on the
firewall (not to mention the floor). First, raise the tail of the airplane
about 3 feet off the floor. Put your wrench on the filter and then put one
of those sealable baggies over the filter ( I use the sealable baggies
because the reinforced top keeps the bag rigid and keeps it from falling
off). Remove the filter. After the filer is removed, lower the tail (it
good to have a helper so you can hold the bag). The remaing oil will drain
into the bag. Another hint: stand on a stool or chair and work from the top
of the aircraft instead of the side. You will have greater access and
leverage.
This is a much cheeper alternative to a remote mount or an angled mount.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Terrance Jantzi
The Van's Airforce Ontario Wing is holding their first fly-in of the
year on Saturday, June 7 starting at 10:00am.
Anyone interested within driving or flying distance of Sarnia, Ontario,
Canada is welcome. The fly-in will be held at Rick West's strip which is
2.2 miles south of Sarnia airport(CYZR). The West strip is aprox N42 57
00 W82 18 30. Broadcast intentions on Sarnia unicom 123.0. Strip is
grass about 1800' runing north south. Rides will be available from
Sarnia airport if you land there. Unicom will be monitored so let us
know if you need to be picked up.
A faxed map is available on request.
BBQ and good times for all.
Terry Jantzi (the prez)
519-748-5415 days
519-748-1817 evenings
RV-6 C-GZRV flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine acquisition |
--> RV-List message posted by: AB320FLYER(at)aol.com
Tim,
Buy it now and let it appreciate while you're building your kit. It's easy
to put in storage, I just did mine a couple of months ago, and it's
definitely not a problem. Just seal the openings with plastic caps and
clamps where necessary, make a T out of 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's and bolt it to the
prop flange, turn it upsidedown and fill it with automotive oil, and you're
in business.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Joel
ab320flyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Indiana RV Builders Gathering, June 7th |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
Frank,
Sounds like you guys know how to have fun! Is there any way that you could
possibly hold this event In southern Cal somewhere, rather than as planned
so I could take advantage of that ride? Just kidding. Wish I could be there.
As an aside, and in the interest of better coordination this time around,
are any listers planning on attending the Camarillo fly-in? I believe its
scheduled for the weekend of 14 Jun.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>--> RV-List message posted by: Frank Smidler
> If your working on an RV project bring you scrap book for everyone to
>see. If we can find volunteers we will try to arrange for the builders
>who have not yet flown in a RV to get a ride. This should be a lot of
>fun and informative.
>
> After most of the days activities and when the flying is done the Beer
>Light with come on for a little socializing, hanger flying and outright
>lying. Bring a sleeping bag for a little space on the hanger floor or
>bring a tent or camper to stay night.
> The airport phone # is 812-384-9016. I'll see you there.
>
>
>Frank Smidler
>smidler(at)dcwi.com
>765-538-3166
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
--> RV-List message posted by: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Listers:
Another way to remove the oil filter without dripping a drop
into the engine compartment, is to use a 2 liter plastic bottle
that has part of its side cut out, forming a 'pan' like scoop. The
cap is left in place. I've found that I can easily change the filter
alone by holding the bottle udert the filter with my right hand,
while removing the loosened filter with the other hand. While
holding the bottle witht the right hand, the filter attachment
can be cleaned, and the new filter installed with the left hand.
Once the new filter is hand tightened, the bottle is carefully
removed. No spilled oil!
Another method is to install a long hose onto the bottle so
that the oil will drain to a bucket on the floor.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
>
>
>BTW, I found a great way to remove the filer without making a mess on
the
>firewall (not to mention the floor). First, raise the tail of the
airplane
>about 3 feet off the floor. Put your wrench on the filter and then put
one
>of those sealable baggies over the filter ( I use the sealable baggies
>because the reinforced top keeps the bag rigid and keeps it from falling
>off). Remove the filter. After the filer is removed, lower the tail
(it
>good to have a helper so you can hold the bag). The remaing oil will
drain
>into the bag. Another hint: stand on a stool or chair and work from the
top
>of the aircraft instead of the side. You will have greater access and
>leverage.
>
>This is a much cheeper alternative to a remote mount or an angled
>mount.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Indiana RV Builders Gathering, June 7th |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
> Sounds like you guys know how to have fun! Is there any way that you could
>possibly hold this event In southern Cal somewhere, rather than as planned
>so I could take advantage of that ride?
Mike,
The Bakersfield RV BBQ is this saturday (June 7th) for us socal's. I'm
planning on being there.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheels vs. Taildraggers |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Top
>Hey guys, or at least the ones that were around then, just for my
>>curiosity, what did pilots argue about before there were planes with
>>nose wheels?
Why anyone wanted flaps when slipping works just as well.
More than 2000 hrs on conventional gear, building a trike
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Camarillo fly-in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Owens"
> As an aside, and in the interest of better coordination this time =
around,
are any listers planning on attending the Camarillo fly-in? I believe its
scheduled for the weekend of 14 Jun.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil<
Mike,
I should be around somewhere. Chapter 723 is putting it on, and one of =
the 2 chapters I belong to. I don't know if I'll be helping at the booth =
or just milling around drooling at the CAF's Bearcat and RV's. Maybe we =
could all meet somewhere and put some names and faces together.
Laird RV-6 (riveting the lower skins on the wings)
owens(at)aeroviornment.com
PS Gil, thanks for the inspection. Hope the elbows better.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <MNellis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted-Pneumatic Squeezer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Nellis
>> I just finished the rear spar of my HS. Before my forearms look like
Popeye's, does anyone know of a used or decent lower priced air-powered
rivet squeezer and yokes? ($450+ is a bit steep right now.)
Greg (Is this list great or what?)
gregbrew(at)gte.net
RV-6A
Building up the skeleton on the HS
(Say...this isn't so bad...) <<
Greg, why don't you buck them? I find bucking easier than squeezing and =
I
get better results.
Mike Nellis - Skinning HS and ordering new HS608 rib tip - oooppppss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Indiana RV Builders Gathering, June 7th |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
Rob,
I know about Bakersfield. Went last year and it was great. Almost went into
RV overload. Unfortunately I travel by car and Bakersfield is quite a haul.
There is a fly-in at Ramona on the 7th also and since thats close that is
probably where I will go.
Camarillo is also quite a haul, but I have relatives in the area so it
works out O.K. for me.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>
>> Sounds like you guys know how to have fun! Is there any way that you could
>>possibly hold this event In southern Cal somewhere, rather than as planned
>>so I could take advantage of that ride?
>
>Mike,
>
>The Bakersfield RV BBQ is this saturday (June 7th) for us socal's. I'm
>planning on being there.
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft)
A
> I am looking for alternatives in attaching k1000-08 nutplates to thin
>material i.e. less than .032 where machine countersinking the base material
>is impractical. Assuming you have to dimple the base material this poses the
>question as to what to do with the dimple protruding out the backside ? This
>situation is encountered numerous times in the floor and baggage area on the
>RV4.
> Does anyone manufacture a nutplate with countersunk attachment holes
>with the same spacing as a normal K1000 nutplate? If so, what is the part
>number and where on the big blue marble might one look to find.
>
>Tom Brown RV4
> fuselage in jig, fitting floors
>
Hi Tom,
These nutplates are available already dimpled in any way you need them.
Dimpled on the rivets or screw area or both. They are a little more
expensive than the standard nutplates. I have any type you wish in stock
so let me know how many and of which type you need.
I couldn't resist responding to this issue. Bottom line guys, when you
don't think you've got the right tools or pieces to do the job correctly,
go looking for it. I really hated rinky dinking anything. It's real
simple. Drill the hole, deburr it and dimple with the high quality dies.
Install the correct nutplate for the job. Don't use your dimple dies to
dimple steel nutplates. You will eventually ruin the dies. Believe me
when you have to install 100 to 200 nutplates your going to get tired of
dimpling nutplates--nuf said.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hamer" <phamer(at)mscomm.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank builders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer"
I would like to here from anyone who has used Tankcrafters or London and
Associates for their fuel tanks. How did they fit and how was the
workmanship? I here pros and cons about going this route. Any comments
would be appreciated.
phamer(at)mscom.com
RV-6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Canopy Woes, Chapter II... |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Hello RVrs!
My second attempt on my RV-4 canopy has turned out so much better than the
first time. I was *really* careful and hardly put any cracks in the new
one at all - arggg! Fortunately, there is only one small crack on the right
side near the passenger's shoulder. I stopped drilled it at about 3/4"
with a #60 drill and and it seems to be holding there. Waaaa, this sucks.
I was *so* careful with this canopy. The plexi is very thin along the sides
- about 1/8" or so. With this is mind, I have some questions I hope a few
of you can answer:
1) Please tell me that everyone that has ever done an RV-4 canopy has
at least one crack somewhere? This would make me feel much better.
2) Then, tell me there is some magic stuff I can put on the crack
to make it disappear - stop holes and all? Then maybe use that
other magic stuff called 'micro mesh' to polish it out clear.
3) There is a *major* difference between the old circa 1988 canopy
and the new one I just got. The '88 model is a nice dark smoke gray
color. The new one has a very slight bronze hue, but is basically
clear. I really like the gray much better... Why was the color
changed?
4) The plexi seems a little too thin on the sides, probably about
1/8" at the most. The front and back portions are much thicker, or
the order of 1/4". The old canopy was pretty much 1/4" all the
way around. Thoughts?
5) I want to use one of those pneumatic 'hatch-back' shock absorbers
to hold the canopy open. Any recommendations on size (diameter
length, and stroke) and mounting technique?
6) How important are the vertical 3 or 4 pop rivits that hold the
side skins to the center reinforcement of the canopy frame and also
the rear, square tube? In both of these cases, the skin is about
1/4" above the member. Just riviting the skin down will deform it
badly and a 1/4" shim is going to be heavy and ugly. Any reason I
can't just not put any rivits there?
Well, except for all that, the new canopy installation is looking really
sharp. The side skins came out near perfect.
Thanks for the hot tips,
Matt Dralle
180hp RV-4 #1763
N442RV (Soon)
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy Vortec project Belted Air Power |
--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Someone asked about the Chevy V6 engine project - the OMABP.
I just got off the phone to them - order now for delivery late this summer.
Priced under $10K for engine and all.
> Has anyone heard any new info on the Belted Air project?? Is it
> available, final cost, new performance figures, etc....
Belted Air Power, 1408 Western Avenue, Las Vegas, NV.
Jess Meyers, 89102 phone (702) 384-8006
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Installing canopy frame
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Bakerfield fly-in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Owens"
I forgot about Bakersfield. I've been there the last couple of years and =
there's always a lot of RV's. Bill B. was down with the RV-8 last year. =
Looks like I'll have to go, as well as Camarillo next weekend.
I'll try be be around the hanger doors around 3:00 (BKF)
With all this fun, when they heck am I supposed to have time to build!
Laird RV-6 (fuse is waiting for attention)
owens(at)aeroviromnet.com
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
> Sounds like you guys know how to have fun! Is there any way that you =
could
>possibly hold this event In southern Cal somewhere, rather than as =
planned
>so I could take advantage of that ride?
Mike,
The Bakersfield RV BBQ is this saturday (June 7th) for us socal's. I'm
planning on being there.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------
by mars.aerovironment.com (Netscape Mail Server v2.02) with =
SMTP
id AAA881 for ;
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 1997 10:48:18 -0700
From: Robert Acker <ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Indiana RV Builders Gathering, June 7th
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd bottom fuselage skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
The F-672, forward bottom skin, The 3/32" rivets that go thru the .040 skin,
staainless firewall flange, .032 spacer and the hinge for the cowling. I'm
assuming that the .040 skin is counter sunk. Right? I am dimpling the rest
of the holes as you guys suggested.
Is it OK to rivet the above hinge assembly in...or is it smarter to wait
until I fit the cowl?
Which did you guys go with for sealing the firewall from the cockpit, heat
type RTV or the Proseal type? Wouldn't the RTV would be easier replace
parts (God forbid) should that be necessary.
Thanks for the last suggestions and any on this go around.
Have A Great Day!
Denny
retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com
RV-6/ Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank builders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Mack
Steve Hamer wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer"
>
> I would like to here from anyone who has used Tankcrafters or London
> and
> Associates for their fuel tanks. How did they fit and how was the
> workmanship? I here pros and cons about going this route. Any
> comments
> would be appreciated.
>
> phamer(at)mscom.com
> RV-6 wings
I used the London tanks. Overall I was satisfied. The tanks arrived
weeks before my wing kit.
There were a few rivets that could be better.
I had flop tubes installed in each tank. In looking at the tubes, it
looks as if they could get hung up near the leading edge. I will ask the
EAA tech counselor when he comes out for his opinion. I had an A&P
friend look at it and did not think it was a problem.
I don't have much time to work (4 hours a week maybe) and thought this
was a good tradeoff for the cost. When I build my rv-10 I would do it
again ;)
Don Mack
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
| Subject: | Camarillo/Bakersfield fly-ins - Times? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com
When do things get going in Bakersfield, and what goes on? A couple of
us in the Bay area are going to Merced, and may try to make it there
(BKF) also. I'd sure like to witness a Rocket on T/O.
Also, does anyone have the weekend's schedule for Camarillo? I'm
thinking Saturday has more going on than Sunday...?
EB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner V2.0 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
How do you like it? I bought a copy a year ago at Sun 'n Fun and had to
return it because it had so many bugs. Does 2.0 work as advertised?
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: Glenn & Judi <anet-chi.com!flyers(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Panel Planner V2.0
> Date: Monday, June 02, 1997 7:47 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
>
> If anybody out there has purchased Panel Planner V2.0 you may have
> noticed that the RV-6 panel on there is NOT correct.
>
> Interactive Solutions has provided me with the updated panel. They said
> I may distribute it to other users of this program. E-mail me if you
> would like the RV_6.wmf sent to you.
>
> Glenn Gordon
> flyers@anet-chi.com
>
> --
> MZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MP gauge on fixed pitch prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
Correction!
9000 feet pressure altitude, 22 inches MP and 2550 RPM
Sorry for the typo!
Dennis
----------
> From: Bob Skinner <navix.net!BSkinner(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: MP gauge on fixed pitch prop
> Date: Monday, June 02, 1997 8:17 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
> >
> >Bob,
> >I extracted the following from the "Avco Lycoming Operator's Manual",
> >Revised Jan., 1977, Curve No. 9541-C, "O320 and IO320 Series". I have
the
> >manual for my C172 with O320E2D.
> >
> >Reading the 112 HP (75% of 150 HP) intercepts on the Sea Level graph I
> >obtain:
> >
> >RPM MP
> >2700 23.0
> >2600 23.6
> >2500 24.1
> >2400 24.7
> >2300 25.4
> >2200 26.4
> >2100 27.6
> >2000 28.9
> >
> >>From the Altitude Performance (standard atmosphere) graph, I obtain:
> >
> >Alt Press MP RPM
> >4000 25.4 2200
> >9000 22.0 1550
> >
> >Thus it seems that at sea level the sum of RPM/100 + MP = 49 and for a
> >couple of points at altitude the sum is about 48. The graph is quite
> >complicated and not easily reduced to a couple of sentences of text.
> >
> >Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
>
> Dennis,
> Thanks for the info. Yes, those graphs are something. In fact, I'm
not
> sure I could understand them even if I could see them. Used to know all
> that stuff, 20 years ago. I haven't owned an airplane in the past 14
years
> that had published performance data---1976 Maule M-5, 1952 90 hp Super
Cub
> or 1948 Cessna 170. The data just wasn't "part of the package".
> I do wonder about the 9000 figures. I pull 22.5" m.p. at 8,500' (9,700
> P.A.) and am turning at 2610 rpms. The 1550 rpm seems low.
> Anyway, thanks for the interesting information.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
--> RV-List message posted by: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Did anyone ever get the scoop on those electric military surplus 28v
gyros? Who has them, etc?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: two RV6A's, one T hanger |
--> RV-List message posted by: kevin lane
>--> RV-List message posted by: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
>
>AH HA!!!! Finally a definite plus for the taildragger!!!!! Do like they did
>with all of the excess at the end of WW2. Tilt them over on the nose--that
>way you can get more in a smaller floor area!!!!
> I remember as a kid seeing this with something that looked like a piper
>cub in GI paint. There were many of them in each building.
> See, that is a negative for the tri gear----can't tip them over on the nose.
>John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
>Stephenville TX
>johnd@our-town.com
>
I fly a T-craft out of Evergreen, WA. Wally, 88 yrs old, has a hanger which
normally just barely holds his two WACOs, two T-crafts, a 172, and two
150's. Maximum number of planes in that hanger during the Columbus Day
storm? forty four! All on their noses. Imagine, a hanger for only $5/mo,
just that it takes a while to get to your plane. kevin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Camarillo/Bakersfield fly-ins - Times? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
I got there early last year, about 1:00pm. Airplanes didnt begin to arriive
until about 3:00. I think most were at Merced in the a.m. and flew down for
the afternoon from there.
John Harmon was hopping rides in his rocket for a nominal amount which
would go toward kit price for anyone who made a buy.
I didnt count last year, but would estimate 50 RV's in attendance (along
with 1 other airplane of undetermined type) last year.
Mike Wills
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>--> RV-List message posted by: BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com
>
>When do things get going in Bakersfield, and what goes on? A couple of
>us in the Bay area are going to Merced, and may try to make it there
>(BKF) also. I'd sure like to witness a Rocket on T/O.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank Smidler
aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Attempting to use brute force and dimple the steel ends of the
> nutplate. This is hard on the dies and the results are not of the quality I
would like.
I now dimple all my nut plates using dimple dies in my Avery C-frame. I
wish I had tried it sooner. Compared to the problems of trying to
countersink the thin wing skin around the access hole, not having the
nut plate tight against the skin and the nut plate moving on you the
dimpled nutplates work great. I highly recomend this method (I do use
old dies).
Frank Smidler
RV-6, working on canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK)
The bushings have an id too small to accept the specified AN-4-32A
bolts, so I guess I need to ream them out. What's the appropriate
tool? Are there any special dos or don'ts on this procedure?
Suggestions appreciated, and thanks in advance.
George Kilishek
RV-8 #80006. Left wing ready to go on jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
Good question, any replies please post to the list. I have
laboriously counter-sunk one at a time to fit the dimpled aluminum. I
would not recommend the results to anyone. Installing doublers to
accept the countersunk rivets is elegant, but I agree that it is time
consuming and adds weight and complexity.
I am not familiar with the Frank Justice method. I have his
construction notes, but must have overlooked the explanation. Will
someone please repeat it here?
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
Just ordered the 6A fuselage kit today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Nose Wheels vs. Taildraggers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
I decided to build the nose gear 6A simply because I was unable to
find someone within a 2 hour drive who could offer instruction in a
tailwheel aircraft. Up here in Vermont general aviation is at a low
ebb. There was no alternative to a nosewheel only existence short of
buying a tailwheel plane to learn in.
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
Finishing the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd bottom fuselage skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
Denny, I would dimple the skin and ss firewall flange, countersink the .032
spacer, and leave the hinge flat for riveting with 3/32" rivets. I would wait
until the cowl is fitted. I like using the RTV to seal the joints and any
openings.
Les Williams/RV-6AQB/N24LW (res)/finish kit
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Denny Harjehausen
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 1997 3:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fwd bottom fuselage skin
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
The F-672, forward bottom skin, The 3/32" rivets that go thru the .040 skin,
staainless firewall flange, .032 spacer and the hinge for the cowling. I'm
assuming that the .040 skin is counter sunk. Right? I am dimpling the rest
of the holes as you guys suggested.
Is it OK to rivet the above hinge assembly in...or is it smarter to wait
until I fit the cowl?
Which did you guys go with for sealing the firewall from the cockpit, heat
type RTV or the Proseal type? Wouldn't the RTV would be easier replace
parts (God forbid) should that be necessary.
Thanks for the last suggestions and any on this go around.
Have A Great Day!
Denny
retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com
RV-6/ Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Chevy Vortec project Belted Air Power |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
Thank you for the information. I want to build the fuselage before
ordering the engine, so I guess I'm a year away. Any chance of seeing
a Belted Air web site?
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
Vermont ... The nicest place on the planet in June.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly |
Posting]
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin & Theresa Horton
Matt,
Judging by the number of unsubsribe messages posted lately, it might be
worthwhile putting a short sentence the subject in your monthly posting.
Thanks for all the work you are doing. I really missed the list when it
went down.
Don't bother replying to this message - you've got better things to do with
your time, like building!
Take care,
Kevin Horton
future RV-8 builder (lurking and gathering info, tools, etc)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shipping Details |
--> RV-List message posted by: DHoerig(at)aol.com
I understand that main crate for the RV6A quick build kit is abot 4'-0"
square and 16'-0" long. Can anyone tell me how they unloaded this from tthe
truck. I was told it weighs about 850#.
Future RV builder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca (joehine) |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Woes, Chapter II... |
--> RV-List message posted by: joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca (joehine)
>--> RV-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
>
>
>Hello RVrs!
>
>My second attempt on my RV-4 canopy has turned out so much better than the
>first time.
> 1) Please tell me that everyone that has ever done an RV-4 canopy has
> at least one crack somewhere? This would make me feel much better.
>
Matt, I have one short crack also, mine is right at the front
> 2) Then, tell me there is some magic stuff I can put on the crack
> to make it disappear - stop holes and all? Then maybe use that
> other magic stuff called 'micro mesh' to polish it out clear.
The Majic stuff is Methal Cloride (sp) check the archives for canopy cracks,
you should find it.
> 5) I want to use one of those pneumatic 'hatch-back' shock absorbers
> to hold the canopy open. Any recommendations on size (diameter
> length, and stroke) and mounting technique?
I just finished doing this, I spent a few days back and forth to various
automotive supply shops trying struts, but they all had too much pressure,
ie, I couldn't close the canopy. I ended up tying one of the struts vans
sells for the RV6 tilt up canopy, this is the right size, however it has
insufficent pressure. I have a email in to vans now to get the name of
their supplier to try and get the same strut with more pressure. As for
mounting it, I made a small backet out of 1/8 x3/4 x3/4 angle and bolted it
to the gusset on the right side of the roll bar and attached one end of the
strut to that and the other end to the bulkhead in the middle of the canopy
frame that goes behind the roll bar. Email me off line if this isn't clear
and I'll try to clear it up for you.
> 6) How important are the vertical 3 or 4 pop rivits that hold the
> side skins to the center reinforcement of the canopy frame and also
> the rear, square tube? In both of these cases, the skin is about
> 1/4" above the member. Just riviting the skin down will deform it
> badly and a 1/4" shim is going to be heavy and ugly. Any reason I
> can't just not put any rivits there?
Mine was the same and I shimmed part way,rivited and filled the dimples with
bodyfiller. Looks OK.
Joe Hine
joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca
C-FYTQ, days away from moving to the airport (work is interfering)
>
>Matt Dralle
>180hp RV-4 #1763
>N442RV (Soon)
>
>
>
>--
>
>Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KennyCobb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Camarillo/Bakersfield fly-ins - Times? |
--> RV-List message posted by: KennyCobb(at)aol.com
<< When do things get going in Bakersfield, and what goes on? A couple of
us in the Bay area are going to Merced, and may try to make it there
(BKF) also. I'd sure like to witness a Rocket on T/O. >>
There is not any set schedule for the Bakersfield Fly-in. BBQ
dinner will be served around 3:30 on Sat. So those that Fly in will
have time get home before sunset. ( depending of course on where you live and
what you fly ) There will be a guest speaker, Jon Sharp and his crew cheif St
eve Ericson. I think they will have a very interesting
program. You can arrive as early as you like. I even heard a rumor that
General Chuck Yeager may stop in to test fly a Harmon rocket.......
Ken Crabtree
Bakersfield, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: two RV6A's, one T hanger |
z>
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
>--> RV-List message posted by: kevin lane
>>AH HA!!!! Finally a definite plus for the taildragger!!!!!
Ahem... getting somewhat back toward the topic:
What is the narrowest door that an RV-6 will fit through? Has anyone tried
any AutoCAD or cardboard cutout models to see what's possible?
I'm thinking about building a kitset double garage (aluminium, of course)
to build my plane in. Then, when the plane's complete, I'll disassemble the
garage and re-erect it at the airfield as a hangar. The question then is
whether the plane will fit through the double-width door of the garage.
I'm thinking of perhaps having a little trolley to roll the main gear onto,
so that I could push the plane diagonally-sideways through the door.
Frank.
Here's my ASCII attempt at a diagram to explain what I mean; you'll need a
monospace font like Courier to see it.
/\
\ Doorway
\
| \
___|___ \
| \
| \
| \
| \
| \
____________________ \
/ | / /\
|
NB: Trolley wheels set up in
direction of movement. _ Moving aircraft in this direction
/|
/
/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Stan Blanton <75472.372(at)CompuServe.COM>
Regarding nutplates;
I decided to use pre-dimpled nutplates in a lot of areas which allowed me to
dimple the rib or skin involved. I thought of use the 'oops' rivets but decided
that I liked the dimpled nutplates better in most instances though it is a
higher cost approach. This short cross reference may be of interest FWIW.
Size/Style 2 leg 1 leg 2
leg - flat head screw 1 leg - flat head screw
K-1000 type K-2000 type K-1100
type
6-32 MS 21047-L06 MS21051-L06 MS21049-L06
MS21053-L06
8-32 MS21047-L08 MS21051-L08 MS21049-L08
MS21053-L08
10-32 MS21047-L3 MS21051-L3 MS21049-L3
MS20153-L3
1/4 MS21047-L4 MS21051-L4 MS21049-L4
MS21053-L4
Add the suffix 'K" to the end of the number to denote dimpled rivet holes. For
example a dimpled one leg nutplate for a 8-32 screw would be MS21051-L08K. If
anyone knows where they can get dimpled plate nuts for a flat head 6-32 screw
(MS21049-L06K) I would love to know. I have been unable to find a source.
I found the folks at Bon Aero (209-795-22363, Avery, CA) to be a good source but
am sure there are lots of others.
Good luck!
Stan Blanton
RV-6
75472.372(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping Details |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
Get a few friends/onlookers to help you slide it just past the half way
point on the edge of the truck bed. Tilt down slowly as sliding slowly out.
With one end eventually on the ground, 4 people can easily ease the other
end down.
You might want to consider 4 of the three wheel casters from somewhere like
Home Depot or Lowes (the large ones of course) as they come in handy for
moving the crate (and other stuff) around later.
James
RV6AQ ... not as much time as hoped, so still gotta close the wings
----------
> From: aol.com!DHoerig(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Shipping Details
> Date: Tuesday, June 03, 1997 10:21 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: DHoerig(at)aol.com
>
> I understand that main crate for the RV6A quick build kit is abot 4'-0"
> square and 16'-0" long. Can anyone tell me how they unloaded this from
tthe
> truck. I was told it weighs about 850#.
>
> Future RV builder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | For English RV-listers only |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander
RV-listers in Northern England,
I will be in Liverpool for the second part of June, and was
wondering if any RV-builders want to meet to chat, any help, hangar talk,
drink beer, or any other RV-related activities.
I am a FAA Airframe Mechanic and an EAA Technical Counsellor
(with 11 RVs on my "visit list"), as well as a RV6A builder, and can
provide US technical info., or argue (sorry, discuss) building/construction
points with your inspector if needed ...:^)
If anyone is interested, please e-mail me privately to the
address at the end, or call me in Liverpool at 151-427-2357 after June 15th.
... thanks ... Gil (waiting for some good beer) Alexander
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Woes, Chapter II... |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Kukulski
Matt Dralle asked:
"...Please tell me that everyone that has ever done an RV-4 canopy has at
least one crack somewhere? This would make me feel much better."
--------
I've got a crack (Just behind the rear passenegr's shoulder). Does it
really make you feel better? ( I stop-drilled it, repaired the crack with
IPS Weld-On 3 plexiglass cement, and hid it with a cosmetic-only
fiberglass canopy bow)
"...the vertical 3 or 4 pop rivits that hold the side skins to the center
reinforcement of the canopy frame and also the rear, square tube? In
both of these cases, the skin is about 1/4" above the member."
--------
You say your skins came out great, but if they are 1/4" above the rear
bow and the center vertical members of the canopy frame, it sounds like
your flange on the side skins (where they contact the canopy edges) is
not bent enough to permit contact on both the canopy and the frame. If
not yet drilled/riveted to the canopy, it may be possible to bend the
flange further to eliminate the gap. If you have already drilled the side
skins to the canopy, I think it is too late to correct this without the
the 1/4" thick shims you mentioned. I don't know exactly how the lifting
and drag loads on the canopy are transfered to the canopy frame, but I
would certainly want the metal skins riveted to the frame to take some of
these loads versus just those holes near the edge of the canopy
plexiglass. I would use the shims and accept the couple ounce penalty.
"...those pneumatic 'hatch-back' shock absorbers to hold the canopy open.
Any recommendations..."
--------
I tried one, designed for auto hatchback lid, from the local Pep-Boys
based on my calculated dimensions, but when I got back from the store, I
found the force required to compress it was excessive. I returned it and
developed a sliding aluminum bar arrangement to limit the canopy travel.
The gas strut would be more elegant, but you need to watch the force -
I'm sure you will get recommendations from other listers for a
satisfactory strut.
"...magic stuff I can put on the crack to make it disappear - stop holes
and all? Then maybe use that other magic stuff called 'micro mesh' to
polish it out..."
--------
The Weld-On cement will bond the crack together virtually as strong as
the original plexiglass. If done carefully, the glue will not show, but
the crack will still be visible. Since the bonded crack is a plane
through the entire thickness of the plexiglass, I don't think any amount
of polishing would make it completely invisible. It is, and will remain,
your RV-building "Red Badge of Courage." ;-)
My two cents worth. BTW, I had a very good experience laying up a
fiberglass fairing at the front of the canopy. Let me know if you would
like details.
(Installing the cowling)
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exp-Bus . . . |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/I don't question Bob's assessment of the essential bus, =
/but I do have an experience to share here.
>If the job is done right, the probability of a fuse opening =
>is very close to zero . . . when it does, there's something =
>broke . . . and there's no value in fiddling with it it flight.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
/That's ALMOST always true. I once had an intermittent short in =
/my panel wiring ground out my panel lights while I was IMC at =
/night shortly after departure from San Diego (in a Grumman Yankee). =
/The momentary grounding blew the fuse. I flew the airplane thru the =
=
/overcast using a flashlight in my teeth to see the panel (that's why =
/I always keep the flashlight on a string hanging from my neck... easy =
/to find).
/After I was thru the overcast I replaced the fuse, and found that =
/the panel lights worked OK for the approach back into Los Angeles. =
/It was a lot easier with working panel lights than with just a flashlig=
ht.
/The next day I found the abraded wiring and made sure it was properly =
insulated.
/Given that experience I'll likely opt to keep my fuses/breakers =
/within reach. In general, however, if a fuse blows it'll probably =
/blow again if replaced, 'cause it blew for a reason.
But you didn't read the article . . . #1 on the essential bus
list of goodies is panel lighting . . . not 5 amps of post lights
and internally lit gizmos but a simple panel flood . . . a maximum
of .16 amps. How about a goose-neck mounted map light that can
point into your lap hands free for map reading and be twisted
to cover the panel during alternator out and/or situations like you
describe above? The proscription is if someting is essential,
have a backup for it. If not essential, don't worry about it. But in
either case, don't be a mechanic in flight. Flashlights are
not my idea of backup for normal panel lighting. It's rediculously
EASY to have TWO systems . . . one fancy on the main bus and one =
simple system on the essential bus.
I'll suggest that the thoughtfully designed system should never
present you with a good reason for fiddling with fuses or breakers
in flight.
Bob . . .=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 95-96 back issues of newsletter |
--> RV-List message posted by: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Your newsletters are on the way. Thanks for your interest.
Jim Cone
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Thanks to all who had nice things to say about my newsletter. It makes all
the work that I do worth while. To all who ordered all three years, I ran
out of the 1995 issues and will get some more printed tomorrow at Kinko's.
This will be my sixth reprinting of them, but I will keep doing it until
nobody wants them any more. I will have them in the mail tomorrow evening.
Jim Cone, Editor
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing Newsletter
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Your newsletters are on the way. The 1995 and 1996 back issues and a 1997
subscription is $15.00. Make the check payable to me. Thanks for your
interest.
Jim Cone
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: JamesCone(at)aol.com
There are nut plates that have the mounting holes dimpled as well as the
screw hole. I have some that I got at the fly market last year at Oshkosh.
I Think I got them from B&C, but am not sure because I bought so much
hardware just to have on hand that I can't remember for sure. I don't have
any part numbers. They work great.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> /What is the opinion on spade fuses? Is there some
> /reason why should not use them?
> I believe them to be an excellent, low cost and
> very reliable alternative to breakers and other
> forms of branch circuit protection in airplanes.
>
> Please consider using Bussmann bus-bar and fuse
> block combos. They should be available from any
> Bussmann distributor.
I am unclear on the term spade fuses. Are you referring to automotive
ATO style fuses or residential/commercial fuses?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping Details |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Top
>I understand that main crate for the RV6A quick build kit is abot 4'-0"
>square and 16'-0" long. Can anyone tell me how they unloaded this from tthe
> truck. I was told it weighs about 850#.
I don't know how Van ships his kits, but SH ships GlaStar kits by
Consolidated Freight and possibly another shipping company. The buyer has
to arrange his own delivery from the shippers warehouse. If this is the
case with the RV, the simplest way is to hire a flat bed wrecker. The guy
that delivered my kit off loaded it into my garage all by himself.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris <pacoair(at)wwnet.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris
I need to repaint my plane. It was originally painted with DuPont
Enamel. Any suggestions on what to use to strip it?
Thanks
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Woes, Chapter II... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
Mike Kukulski wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mike Kukulski
>
>
> My two cents worth. BTW, I had a very good experience laying up a
> fiberglass fairing at the front of the canopy. Let me know if you would
> like details.
>
> (Installing the cowling)
>
>
>
> Mike Kukulski
>
> RV-4 N96MK
> kukulski(at)highfiber.com
> Albuquerque, NM
Mike
I would be very intersted in how you layed up the fiberglass fairing.
I built the canopy last summer and have yet to build the fairing.
Also, I see we are at the same point on the the plane. If you have
any good tips on the cowl installation it would be a great help.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Camarillo/Bakersfield fly-ins - Times? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell L. Anderson"
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
>John Harmon was hopping rides in his rocket for a nominal amount which
>would go toward kit price for anyone who made a buy.
>Mike Wills
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Ah, you must mean "sharing costs", right?
D. Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Arter
MR GEORGE T KILISHEK wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T
> KILISHEK)
>
> The bushings have an id too small to accept the specified AN-4-32A
> bolts, so I guess I need to ream them out. What's the appropriate
> tool? Are there any special dos or don'ts on this procedure?
>
> Suggestions appreciated, and thanks in advance.
>
> George Kilishek
>
> RV-8 #80006. Left wing ready to go on jig.
George, hi
I just used a drill bit. The inner diameter/surface finish is not too
important because the bellcrank turns on the outer surface of the
bushing. I drilled them in a vise on the drill press, and used a
lubricant. Clamp the vise down because if it grabs the brass, you could
get hurt.
You will probably find the inside of the bellcrank also needs some
attention. They tend to be a bit warped from the welding process. Mine
weren't too bad, and they cleaned up with some sandpaper on a wooden
dowel.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
--> RV-List message posted by: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Just a note about shipping costs. Two different friends had kits arrive
by truck about a month ago (New Orleans area). The wing kit (rv-6) cost
nearly 800.00. The finishing kit (rv-4) was almost 500.00. Four men
easily unloaded them. (Well, maybe not easily, but no one strained
anything.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping Details |
--> RV-List message posted by: PhilipR920(at)aol.com
You will be responsible for unloading. I hired a flat bed wrecker which
worked great. No risk of dropping or injury. Cost was $50.00.
Phil Rogerson
6AQ 60057 N936PR res.
Fernandina Beach FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Ruddock <markr(at)iwl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RVList: Forced air systems for priming |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Ruddock
dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
> >
> >Mark,
> >
> >The rig you're looking for is called the Hobbyair. Gil Alexander and I
> >co-own one and I can vouch for its effectiveness. It's made by Fastech
> >Corp., 24 Center Drive, Gilberts, IL 60136. You can reach them at (800)
> >HOBAIR1 or (708) 836-1633.
>
> Used mine yesterday while doing some priming and would NOT be without it.
> It was a still cool day and shot some stuff outside and smelled nothing but
> fresh air. MAJOR improvement over the good old respirator: there is no
> problem having the right filter for what you are spraying as there is no
> need. If you are going to do any painting, (self-etching two-part primers),
> get one. Maybe some builders around you will want to pitch in and share.
>
> Michael
I have gotten a fax from Fastech with all the options for Hobbyair and I
am convinced it is worth the cost. Now I have to decide on which model
and options to get. I am building with a friend, so was thinking about
the buddy system.
Does anyone have suggestions on specific models/options.
My plan is the Hobbyair II with buddy system (2 half-masks and 2 hoods
and some hood protectors). Do I need anything else?
Hoping the local builders group might pitch in,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Camarillo/Bakersfield fly-ins - Times? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
That is absolutely what I meant! I wrote that late in the day and was
obviously confused!
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell L. Anderson"
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
>
>
> >John Harmon was hopping rides in his rocket for a nominal amount which
>>would go toward kit price for anyone who made a buy.
>>Mike Wills
>>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>
>Ah, you must mean "sharing costs", right?
>
>D. Anderson
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
I used a 0.249 straight fluted reamer for opening the holes up. Chucked
the bushings in the lathe. Put the reamer in the tailstock chuck. Reamed at
slow speed. Wha la.
I might regret this, but anyone who needs their bushings enlarged I
will be glad to help them out. Mail your bushings to me with return postage
and I will open them up for you post hast. No charge. For your other needs, I
have a fairly well equiped machine shop and a big heart. Give me a call.
You may find that you need this close tolerance reamer to open up your
spar bolt holes when mating the wings to the fuselage. (as well as other
sizes) The cost of the reamers are not that expensive and are readily
available.
Tom Brown
4 Post Court
Monroe, New York 10950
914 783-2518
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
>A friend with an RV-6 is looking for a supplier for the AC Aircraft
>Spin-on Oil Filter 0F53A P/N 25010542. I don't know the details, but he
says
>this is the only filter that will work; the champions have the built in
nut on
>the end that makes them impossible to install, I guess. He wants to buy
a
It sounds like he's using the spin-on filter without the box in the
firewall. The fix is fairly simple. Just use a cut-off wheel to cut the
nut off flush with the filter top. (leave the safety wire ears on) It's
a little snug to start, but it fits.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Carbon copy woes . . . |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
I notice that when I try to use my cc: option for adding =
addressed to a cross-post, it seems that europa list not =
only sends copies to people who have subscribed to the =
list but to my CC: items as well!
Sorry 'bout that. Will do future cross-posted items as =
individual messages so that the great snow storms of =
identical data won't happen.
Bob . . .=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
.I am unclear on the term spade fuses. Are you referring =
.to automotive ATO style fuses or residential/commercial =
.fuses?
Yes, the automotive devices. Contrary to popular belief
the technology behind these devices is far superior to
the spring-loaded, glass cartridge fuse holders that
we're all familiar with. You might want to look up =
an article I did on the subject in Sport Aviation,
March 93.
Bob . . .
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Houston Bay Area RVators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven Spruell"
The Houston Bay Area RVators will host its June meeting (the first in about 8 months)
on June
12. We will meet at my house at 19:00. This will give everyone an opportunity
to trash me on
my wing construction technique.
Out-of-town guests are certainly welcome. Houston Gulf (SPX) is located about
2 miles
from my house and we will be glad to pick you up. If you show up in an RV, be
prepared to give
everyone else a ride (especially me - I STILL haven't flown in one of these things
yet).
Contact me via e-mail if you need directions. Membership info is on our web site.
See you there!
Steve
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
*************************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | To fiddle or not to fiddle . . . |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/I have been watching this thread for a while. =
/One Comment
/Any time a designer or tech tries to limit a pilots =
/options to fit HIS idea of what should happen I do =
/not want to fly the aiplane. No manufacturer has =
/used fuses in an airplane since the fifties or early =
/sixties, producing an airplane using them is about as =
/smart as going back to the Model "T" spark coil =
/ignition. Further installing them so that the pilot =
/can not change them in flight is downright dangerous. =
I'd say that it depends on what you're trying to limit.
Options or workloads. May I recommend a book called
"The Naked Pilot" by David Beaty. This book and others
is a documentation of facts surrounding a series of
serious accidents. All were ultimately chalked up to
"pilot error" but the book points out how easy it is
to become locked into a mindset that defies all logic
and explanation.
Airlines don't permit most crews to mess with the
breakers except "critical to flight" and then reset
only one time. I'll suggest that it's advantageous to
make sure that your critical systems are backed up,
not made "repairable" in flight. The fuses we're speaking
about have evolved a great deal since the sixties . . =
it's not a regression to consider using them again.
----------------------------------------------
Another response received on the same subject:
----------------------------------------------
>All you say may be right, Bob, but you are bordering on flaming.
>It smacks of "I am the only one here who can be right". If you =
>want to keep credibility, and I have enough background to believe =
>that you usually are right, you need to tone down the innuendo =
>so that you are effective in communicating.
I was afraid some folk would take the "my mind's made up"
message the wrong way. My point is simply this: To this date,
ALL of the contrary responses received this subject have
contained no data. I've not and never will flame anyone or
anything but I will sometimes show my frustration with the
the lack of critical dialog on the subject. I'm inviting =
you all to participate in the same kind of critical design
review I enjoy with my peers in my professional capacity.
My critical assessment of the advertisement for the EXP-Bus
was that it saves neither time, weight, dollars nor does it add any
level of safety over other circuit protection methods and
I explained why I thought so. To date, there have been
many proponents of the product jump up and recommend the device
but not one has shown where my assertions were wrong.
The banner in my signature file is no attempt at tongue-in-
cheek humor; I'm serious. The list-server is just a communications
tool . . . it can spread the good, the indifferent and the ugly.
It's only through reasoned dialog that the good stuff can
be sorted out from the rest. In the final analysis, one
may always build their airplane any way they please but when
someone asks for advice, advisors owe it to the advisee to
impart as much understanding as possible.
=
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bright <john(at)catlover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy Vortec project Belted Air Power |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Bright
--- clip ---
Any chance of seeing a Belted Air web site?
--- clip ---
See the Old Men's Airplane Building Project-OMABP at
http://www.tansoul.com/airplane.
--
Best Regards, John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john(at)catlover.com, -6
empennage on hand, tool shopping, wing on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
--> RV-List message posted by: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>--> RV-List message posted by: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
>A friend with an RV-6 is looking for a supplier for the AC Aircraft Spin-on
>Oil Filter 0F53A P/N 25010542...........
Speaking of oil filters, does anyone know a supplier of inexpensive
(hahahahaha) Champion filters. The going rate seems to be $10.00+. Is
there some way to adapt a car filter with an adaptor or is this another
no-no? Seems if you are filing the nut off a Champion, the only difference
is a fitting that would adapt a car filter to the back of a Lycoming engine.
I have been driving cars a long time and have NEVER heard of a filter coming
off.
Just a thought.....
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: shipping cost |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
Shipping cost must vary quite a bit. I just recieved my finishing kit
and it was the largest ( 2'X4'X8' ), heaviest ( 330 lbs ), and most
expensive to ship ( $263 to Tennessee ). The trucking place said they
couldn't get the semi down my driveway so I picked it up with a 12'
trailer. My neighbor and I unloaded it by sliding it out and setting it
down one end at a time.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
Fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Any RV-3's for Sale?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RodWoodard
Hello all:
I've been without my Cherokee for all of 96 hours now and I'm going through
serious airplane withdrawal. I'd like to buy an RV-3. I've looked in all
the traditional sources so I'm looking for "word of mouth" here.
Does anybody know of any RV-3's for sale? I'm located in Loveland, Colorado
(about 50 miles north of Denver), but I'd probably travel just about
anywhere in the states to buy one. I'm looking for a pretty much bare-bones
airplane... a transponder would be nice since I'm so close to the 30nm
Class B ring, but I've got an extra transponder at home so it's not
mandatory.
Thanks.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-List : EIS Brochures have been sent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Grt757(at)aol.com
To the great many of you that requested information about the Engine
Information System from Grand Rapids Technologies, the brochures were mailed
today. Sorry it took so long.
I was quite amazed at the response. If anyone has questions feel free to call
or write. I don't get online as often as I should to retrieve my e-mail, and
it can be overlooked since I get so much.
Thanks again.
Greg Toman
Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc.
4526 Poinsettia SE
Kentwood, MI 49508
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Woes, Chapter II... |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Matt,
If I remember right you live in Livermore. I will be in school next week in
Oakland (777 door school). I would be happy to grab one of the type actuators
I used on my 4 for the canopy hold open and show you how to install it. (on
the house). I have a good freind who lives in Livermore who I will be helping
with his 6A project on sunday the 8th. Mabe I can show you a few tricks for
drilling plexi glass without breaking it. Would enjoy seeing your project and
seeing what your fuel scan unit looks like. Let me know.
Ryan RV4131RB(at)aol.com
P.S.
You really dont want fly your bright shinny new airplane with a cracked
canopy do you?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Colquitt" <jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu> |
| Subject: | Any RV-3's for Sale?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
Rod Woodard asks:
> Does anybody know of any RV-3's for sale? I'm located in Loveland, Colorado
> (about 50 miles north of Denver)
Rod, I have a 1989 RV-3A, but it's not "bare bones." It has an 0-320
(550 or so hours), wing tanks, 720 com, tx/enc, Ultrascanner, etc.
550 or so total time, flip canopy. I'm building another airplane so I
will be selling the RV, but it's not a "gotta sell this weekend." In
fact, I had planned to go to Oshkosh in it so it has not been on the
market. Just saw your msg. If interested, give me a call -days
please.
Joe Colquitt
RV-3A Alabama (and it'll go to Colorado - and back!)
Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: paint stripper |
--> RV-List message posted by: JHeadric(at)aol.com
A product called AIRCRAFT REMOVER works good
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: two RV6A's, one T hanger |
--> RV-List message posted by: JamesCone(at)aol.com
I got my RV-6A (fully assembled except for the wings and wheel pants) out of
a 6 ft. door with about 3/4" to spare. I made a dolly that allowed the plane
to be moved in any direction. The tail went out first by putting one
elevator out at an angle and then moving the plane sideways and swinging the
other side out. The same idea worked for the gear. The limiting factor is
the skins that stick out from the fuselage where they connect to the wings.
You need about five or six people to help you. I had thirteen and ended up
with a lot of supervisors. Hope this helps.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
Frank simply says to dimple the nutplates. I can't locate the specific
section in the procedure where it is mentioned.
Dennis ^6a fuselage in jig
----------
> From: Stephen J. Soule <pfclaw.com!SSoule(at)matronics.com>
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Nutplate Question
> Date: Tuesday, June 03, 1997 7:40 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
>
> Good question, any replies please post to the list. I have
> laboriously counter-sunk one at a time to fit the dimpled aluminum. I
> would not recommend the results to anyone. Installing doublers to
> accept the countersunk rivets is elegant, but I agree that it is time
> consuming and adds weight and complexity.
>
> I am not familiar with the Frank Justice method. I have his
> construction notes, but must have overlooked the explanation. Will
> someone please repeat it here?
>
> Steve
> Huntington, Vermont
> Just ordered the 6A fuselage kit today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mitch Faatz
Hi Daniel - just realized the Bakersfield BBQ is this weekend, and I
should get there Saturday around 3:00PM (we're driving). How can I find
you - I want to see these new wingtips! Maybe I'll bring my checkbook
in case you want me to leave with a new set too. I'm looking forward to
seeing some wingtips with the strobe/nav lights as well.
- Mitch
> ----------
> From: Daniel Potter
> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 1997 8:53 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing tip Lights
>
>
> I have a new low drag wing tip with a light kit. The tip is up to 8
> MPH
> faster that the tip Van's sells. John Harmon and Dave Anders will be
> a
> Sun'n'Fun if anyone wants to look at them, or E-Mail me off line and I
>
> can send you a BMP showing the tip on Oliver Brennen's RV-6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner V2.0] |
--> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
>
> How do you like it? I bought a copy a year ago at Sun 'n Fun and had to
> return it because it had so many bugs. Does 2.0 work as advertised?
> Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
Dennis,
It's relatively bug free. It has frozen up the system a few times so I
use the world relatively. But it is still a great way to help plan out
and visualize your panel.
Glenn Gordon
flyers@anet-chi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camarillo fly-in - Times? |
--> RV-List message posted by: LesDrag(at)aol.com
<< Also, does anyone have the weekend's schedule for Camarillo? I'm
thinking Saturday has more going on than Sunday...?
EB
>>
Hi Eric and all,
Guess I need to quit lurking.
The Camarillo Fly-In has arrivals Friday afternoon/evening. The field is
closed from 1 to 3 PM for fly-bys. (The fly-by briefing is at 11 AM at the
CAF, if your interested.) I believe this is for both Saturday and Sunday (Is
that right, Cecil??)
I'm responsible for aircraft registration this year. The plan is to have
someone meet you at your homebuilt when you arrive, so you don't have to try
to find the registration booth.
Transient (homeless?? :-) ) parking (Spam cans) will have a people shuttle
to the display area.
JIm Ayers
LOM M332A Ivoprop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping Details |
--> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Check with your shipping company to see what unloading options you will have.
Some of them make deliveries using trucks which have lifts at the rear.
This simplifies getting the crates to floor level.
Assuming you can get the crate down to floor (or driveway) level, use the
armstrong method to offload it onto a series of lengths of identically sized
conduit. With properly spaced (and aligned) conduit, you can roll the kit
into your garage..er..shop. You can even work the crate around curves. The
length of your conduit pieces needs to be greater than the width of the box
you are moving. Larger diameter conduit works better, but even 1" is ok.
One advantage to this method is that you don't have to attach anything (i.e..
casters) to the shipping crate. Another is that if you store the crate on
top of the conduit, it is off the floor and removed from any moisture which
wicks up through the floor.
FWIW, I received my fuse kit about 3 months ago. It was delivered from the
factory to my house in Atlanta, GA for ~$130. The driver even helped with
the unloading.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
Mitch,
I talked to Dave Anders at Chino last month, and asked him about those
wingtips. Not trying to talk you out of anything but he said he saw less
than 2 MPH increase after the install.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mitch Faatz
>
>Hi Daniel - just realized the Bakersfield BBQ is this weekend, and I
>should get there Saturday around 3:00PM (we're driving). How can I find
>you - I want to see these new wingtips! Maybe I'll bring my checkbook
>in case you want me to leave with a new set too. I'm looking forward to
>seeing some wingtips with the strobe/nav lights as well.
>
> - Mitch
The tip is up to 8
>> MPH
>> faster that the tip Van's sells.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernesto Sanchez <40106(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any RV-3's for Sale?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ernesto Sanchez <40106(at)utech.net>
Joe Colquitt wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
>
> Rod Woodard asks:
>
> > Does anybody know of any RV-3's for sale? I'm located in Loveland, Colorado
> > (about 50 miles north of Denver)
>
> Rod, I have a 1989 RV-3A, but it's not "bare bones." It has an 0-320
> (550 or so hours), wing tanks, 720 com, tx/enc, Ultrascanner, etc.
"Wing Tanks" ??
Did you make these or buy them?? Did they make the plane more stable
(slower roll)?
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
> .I am unclear on the term spade fuses. Are you referring
> .to automotive ATO style fuses or residential/commercial
> .fuses?
Yes , Bob. I just found them in a catalog. I was repeating what a friend in
automotive elect. business called them, I got the impression that was what
they were called. It says here ATO-ATC.
Yes, the automotive devices. Contrary to popular belief
> the technology behind these devices is far superior to
> the spring-loaded, glass cartridge fuse holders that
> we're all familiar with. You might want to look up
> an article I did on the subject in Sport Aviation,
> March 93.
I dug out the article today and read it.
Thanks
>
Have A Great Day!
Denny
Denton Harjehausen
retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com
RV-6/ Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Veasey <eagle(at)ntr.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any RV-3's for Sale?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Guy Veasey
RodWoodard wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RodWoodard
>
> Hello all:
>
> I've been without my Cherokee for all of 96 hours now and I'm going
> through
> serious airplane withdrawal. I'd like to buy an RV-3. I've looked in
> all
> the traditional sources so I'm looking for "word of mouth" here.
>
> Does anybody know of any RV-3's for sale? I'm located in Loveland,
> Colorado
> (about 50 miles north of Denver), but I'd probably travel just about
> anywhere in the states to buy one. I'm looking for a pretty much
> bare-bones
> airplane... a transponder would be nice since I'm so close to the 30nm
>
> Class B ring, but I've got an extra transponder at home so it's not
> mandatory.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Rod Woodard
> Loveland, Colorado
> RV-8, #80033
Rod.
I can help.
--
Guy Veasey, CP-ASMEL-IA
Buying a plane? Free advice at http://www.AirplaneBroker.Com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph A. Colquitt" <colquitt(at)tusc.net> |
| Subject: | Any RV-3's for Sale?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joseph A. Colquitt"
Ernesto Sanchez wrote:
>
> "Wing Tanks" ??
>
> Did you make these or buy them?? Did they make the plane more stable
> (slower roll)?
Never flown an RV with fuselage tank so I cannot comment. They do leave
*me* more room in the cockpit, as well as get the gas out of the pilot's
lap (which can be important - my hangar partner lost 1/2 a prop on a
Cassutt one day, did an emergency landing with the engine hanging on by
the control cables and wiring, and was knocked unconscious in the
effort. Heck of a job, but when he came to he had a lap full of fuel.)
So for these reasons I prefer wing tanks).
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A - Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Canopy/Cowl |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Kukulski
Craig Hiers asked:
...very interested in how you laid up the fiberglass fairing...
...any good tips on the cowl installation...
--------
First part of fiberglass was learning how. I highly recommend the
Composite Materials Practice Kit that Aircraft Spruce sells (pg 29 in the
catalog, $57.95), mainly for the 26 page manual included in the kit. The
manual is written by Burt Rutan who is purported to have some experience
with composite airplanes. The book teaches the techniques required to
build structural Long-eze parts and such, which is overkill for our RV
fairings, but confidence bulding for fiberglass virgins like I was. I
did substitute West System epoxy for all my glass work because the
mini-pumps available for them are so darn convenient versus weighing
resin and hardener.
My original intent was to feather the fairing completely into the forward
canopy skin; in fact, I did this originally. I measured on the canopy
itself how high I wanted the fiberglass fairing to come up (I matched it
with the upper flange created on the canopy side skins), marked it, and
then masked above that line with black electrical tape. Use a couple
layers of tape to really protect the canopy, because the next step was
sanding the exposed plexiglass below the tape to help the epoxy adhere
better, and sanding the aluminum forward canopy skin as well for the same
reason. I only used alcohol to clean up this area to avoid the adverse
reactions acetone or MEK would have with the canopy. I then laid up 4-5
plies of bi-directional fiberglass cloth, lining up the upper edges of
the cloth with the masked off trim line established on the canopy. The
bottom edges of the layups extended about 3 inches out from the canopy
onto the forward skin. I also used peel ply after the last fiberglass
ply was applied to better fair in the layup to the metal surface.
Then came lots of sanding to feather the fairing to the aluminum forward
skin. Do this sanding with the canopy still protected by tape - make sure
you don't sand through the tape into the canopy! After the surface
sanding is complete, I then used a triangular cross section needle file
and a sharp razor knife to CAREFULLY dress up the trim line at the upper
edge of the layup. You will be amazed how clean you can make this
transition to the canopy itself without marring it if you are careful.
At this point I used microspheres to fill the weave and any voids,
followed by sanding, followed by several coats of Stits Feathercoat, more
sanding, then primer. At this point the fairing looked beautiful with a
invisible transition from the fiberglass layup to the metal skin.
Then I got scared about the fiberglass eventually delaminating from the
metal skin and ruining the finish paint job. A friend of mine who has
completed an RV-4, a Vari-EZE, a Long-Eze, and a Glasair III assured me
that in time it WOULD delaminate. So I masked off another trim line,
this time about 1-1/4 inches out from the canopy onto the forward canopy
skin, got out the disc sander, and sanded off all the glass below the
trim line, again dressing up the edge with a needlefile and razor knife.
I then drilled and countersunk the fairing for pop rivets to mechanically
fasten it to the canopy skin. A bit more sanding and filling, and the
modified fairing was done. It now has a distinct sharp edge (about 1/32
to 1/16 inch thick) delineating it from the metal canopy skin, so if it
delaminates, it will be along the prepared edge of the fairing.
Some other folks might recommend not bonding the fairing at all to the
canopy and skin; i.e., using release agent, car wax, or packing tape to
separate the layup from the canopy and doing the trimming and sanding
away from the canopy. The sanded, filled, and primed fairing is then
pop-riveted/fastened in place on the canopy. I've seen local RV-6s which
have done this very nicely.
I'm not far along on the cowl yet, just the top and side cheeks are
fitted. I used the Ordnorf videos, the Frank Justice RV-6 manual tips,
and this list's many ideas (in the archives) regarding engine sag to do
the job. There will be a lot of trimming to match the bottom cowl with
the top and side pieces. One tip, not mentioned by anyone to my
knowledge, is to flute the curved hinge sections used to attach the top
cowl to the top part of the firewall; this made the hinge line up better
with the existing fuselage skins and let the top cowl edge match the
firewall better.
Hope this helps.
(Back to that lower cowl)
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryon T. Maynard" <bmaynard(at)communique.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryon T. Maynard"
aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
>
> I am looking for alternatives in attaching k1000-08 nutplates to thin
> material i.e. less than .032 where machine countersinking the base material
> is impractical. Assuming you have to dimple the base material this poses the
> question as to what to do with the dimple protruding out the backside ? This
> situation is encountered numerous times in the floor and baggage area on the
> RV4.
> Does anyone manufacture a nutplate with countersunk attachment holes
> with the same spacing as a normal K1000 nutplate? If so, what is the part
> number and where on the big blue marble might one look to find.
> Other alternatives I have considered: Adding a thick doubler plate under
> the nutplate. The doubler would be machine countersunk to accept the dimple
> from above. This works but adds mass and is time consuming.
> Attempting to use brute force and dimple the steel ends of the
> nutplate. This is hard on the dies and the results are not of the quality I
> would like.
> Any other alternatives? What did the oldbies do?
>
> Tom Brown RV4
> fuselage in jig, fitting floors
I am currently putting my nutplates into the fusalage. I am using a
shaved down version dimple dies and dimpling the nutplates. This method
has worked out great.
Fitting floors and rear top skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryon T. Maynard" <bmaynard(at)communique.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner V2.0 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryon T. Maynard"
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
>
> If anybody out there has purchased Panel Planner V2.0 you may have
> noticed that the RV-6 panel on there is NOT correct.
>
> Interactive Solutions has provided me with the updated panel. They said
> I may distribute it to other users of this program. E-mail me if you
> would like the RV_6.wmf sent to you.
>
> Glenn Gordon
> flyers@anet-chi.com
>
> --
> MZ
Would you please send me a copy. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tvelvick(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | RMI encoder on Dave Barnharts RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick
Dave,
Did you buy the kit preassembled or did you solder it together yourself? =
If so, how did the assembly go. How long did it take and did you find =
out anything to watch out for? Was it difficult to calibrate?
Regards
Tom Velvick
tvelvick(at)caljet.com
RV-6(a?) VS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Angiulo
> " I used a 0.249 straight fluted reamer for opening the holes up.
> Chucked
> the bushings in the lathe. Put the reamer in the tailstock chuck.
> Reamed at
> slow speed. Wha la. "
>
>
This is an interesting topic. I thought the bushings were supposed to
be captured by the bolt and connecting brackets at each end and the
bellcrank tube was supposed to pivot around the bushing. Which part is
supposed to be free and which is supposed to turn? Does it matter?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bennett(at)healey.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: paint stripper |
--> RV-List message posted by: bennett(at)healey.com.au
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris
>
> I need to repaint my plane. It was originally painted with DuPont
> Enamel. Any suggestions on what to use to strip it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
>
Get a copy of "Aircraft Painting and Finishing" from Avery Tools and
get the whole story. Twelve lousy dollars.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Colquitt" <jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
Some mentioned:
" I used a 0.249 straight fluted reamer for opening the holes up.
Does anyone know of a mail-order source for straight fluted reamers
(one or two - not a $$$ set!). My sources either want to sell
expensive sets or carry only one or two sizes - sizes that I do *not*
need, of course.
Thanks.
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A - Alabama
colquitt(at)tusc.net
jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu
Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< Speaking of oil filters, does anyone know a supplier of inexpensive
(hahahahaha) Champion filters. The going rate seems to be $10.00+. Is
there some way to adapt a car filter with an adaptor or is this another
no-no? Seems if you are filing the nut off a Champion, the only difference
is a fitting that would adapt a car filter to the back of a Lycoming engine.
I have been driving cars a long time and have NEVER heard of a filter coming
off.
Just a thought.....
Michael >>
I talked to the folks at Airwolf about this (auto filter), and the problem
is pressure capability. Auto filters are MUCH thinner, and could pop when
subjected to the extreme pressure of Aeroshell 100W when cold ( the tech told
of pressures in the 250 PSI range). Ouch. Of course, he hadn't tried them
ALL.
I remember (from my gearhead days) when a friend put a high pressure spirng
in his 327 Chevy, but 70 PSI wasn't enough ( we needed to be macho, then), so
he streched (wince) the spring. BLOOP! 5 qts on the floor. It can happen. We
popped Napa's best filter- it looked like an overpressure, too.
Check six! (for a smoke trail)
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reamer Sources? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan Boudro
Joe,
I buy all my drills/reamers and lots of other stuff from a catalog supply
company called J&L Industrial Supply. Go on the web and do a search on
machine shop supplies I'm sure it'll come up. Let me know if you can't
find it I've got the catalog at home.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
> Does anyone know of a mail-order source for straight fluted reamers
>
>
>
> Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Cafgef(at)aol.com
<< adapt a car filter >>
I've heard that car filters will not hold up under the vibration and
pressure. Can anyone conferm or deny?
Gene cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | A/I and Vacuum Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Gesele
Three quick questions:
1. Where have most builders obtained their vacuum pump from? It appears
that all suppliers want a rather expensive core charge. On a new
installation, I obviously don't have a core.
2. When installed in an RV-6A, I assume that the A/I needs to be ordered
with a 7 deg. panel tilt. Is this correct? Will a standard DG work in the
tilted panel?
3. Any bad experiences with RC Allen gyros?
Thanks in advance.
Scott Gesele N506RV (Painting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: To fiddle or not to fiddle . . . |
--> RV-List message posted by: Cafgef(at)aol.com
<< My critical assessment of the advertisement for the EXP-Bus
was that it saves neither time, weight, dollars nor does it add any
level of safety over other circuit protection methods and
I explained why I thought so. >>
Does it subtract any level of safety? In other words is it dangerous? Other
that having a long battery line that is always hot?
Gene cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
I believe it does matter. The OD of the bushing should press fit ( 1 to
2 thousands) into the bellcrank. If the bushing is loose, locktite makes some
decent products that should be able to hold the bushing. The bushing should
turn on the bolt.( 3 to 5 thousands clearance) The idea is that the bolt and
bushing can be easily replaced when worn. I hope you get to fly enough to
wear that sucker out too! The steel weldment is thinner and would probably
wear an oblong hole. I have seen designs where a steel sleeve is placed over
the bolt and trapped in tension by the bolt,washer and nut. The sleeve then
turns in the bearing. This permits tightening the bolt in tension and using
it to retain parts on the outside of a bearing. Not necessary in this case.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Colquitt" <jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Reamer Sources? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
Got three recommendations on a source for reamers (J&L) - one with an
800 number [(800) 521-9520] for J&L so I'm calling them now! One
person noted that they have a webpage so I'll be web searching too.
Isn't the web great?
Thanks Dan, Joe & John.
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A
jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu
colquitt(at)tusc.net
Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C&F Hiatt <hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu> |
| Subject: | Fuses/circuit breakers |
--> RV-List message posted by: C&F Hiatt
FWIW here is my $0.02 worth.
During the 2500 + hours flying Military jets, I don't recall ever
resetting a circuit breaker, in fact, in the F-86 the circuit breakers
were located aft of the pilots elbow. Being a large person, there was no
way that I could have reached the ckt brkrs even if I wanted to. I
believe, as others do, don't try to repair/trouble shoot a ckt brkr/fuse
problem in the air. While in the air - FLY THE AIRPLANE - if the failure
is serious enough to need a fix, LAND THE AIRPLANE. Nuff said.
Fred Hiatt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
I had this happen to me with a mid 70's Toyota I used to own. Apparently
the bypass in the pump failed. This occured when my mother in law borrowed
the car to do some shopping at a local mall. She didnt know what that little
red oil light on the dash meant, so she drove the 5 miles home from the
shopping center leaving the oil filter and all the oil in the mall parking
lot. Ouch is right!!
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
> I talked to the folks at Airwolf about this (auto filter), and the problem
>is pressure capability. Auto filters are MUCH thinner, and could pop when
>subjected to the extreme pressure of Aeroshell 100W when cold ( the tech told
>of pressures in the 250 PSI range). Ouch. Of course, he hadn't tried them
>ALL.
>
>I remember (from my gearhead days) when a friend put a high pressure spirng
>in his 327 Chevy, but 70 PSI wasn't enough ( we needed to be macho, then), so
>he streched (wince) the spring. BLOOP! 5 qts on the floor. It can happen. We
>popped Napa's best filter- it looked like an overpressure, too.
>
>Check six! (for a smoke trail)
>Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tools for lefties |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Hi all!
I just finished speaking to D.J. Lauritsen of Cleaveland Aircraft Tool.
I inquired if they made a left handed version of their Vosburgh Edge
Former tool. Currently they do not because it would require the
fabrication of another jig for welding the tool. She suggested holding
the tool upside down in my left hand. I'm not wild about that idea, as
I've held ViseGrip tools like that before and it's not comfortable at
all. I very nice tool becomes clumsy to use.
She suggested that they might consider producing a left handed version
if there was sufficient demand. The number mentioned was 10. Anyone else
out there who would be interested in a left handed version of this tool?
In case you're wondering what tool I'm talking about, look on the top of
page 9 of Cleaveland's 1997 catalog. Please email me if you would like
to buy a left handed edge former.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Electric aux fuel pump location ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Hi all - especially you who have flying RV6A's,
Can I put my little Facet fuel pump that Van's sells down in the space
surrounded by the gear leg attach bracket? I feel like the space for legs,
clipboards, Jepps etc is already small so I need to preserve it.
Would it be more comfortable if the fuel valve were down in the same location?
My pax will not need to touch it.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Installing canopy frame
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head chopper |
--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Hi all,
Seems to me that the auto industry began doing away with sheet metal edges as
panel visors in the '50s. My plans suggest a 3 inch overhang of the panel by
the forward top skin which is .032. In a crash this might partially decapitate
pilot and co.
So I'm just going to attach something that absorbs shock and visors the panel.
Maybe I'll trim the forward skin flush with the panel and attach a velcro strip
to the aft edge of the skin and make a cushion that hangs onto that.
Have any of you done anything like this?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Installing canopy frame
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
| Subject: | voltage regulator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
I have a quick electrical question which I'm hoping someone can answer
easily. I have a Echlin VR-428 voltage regulator. However, I have no
documentation for it (I think this is the one that Van's sells). The
four connectors are marked I A S F....does anybody know what these stand
for so that I can wire it to the alternator?
Thanks in advance,
Grant in New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough)
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A - Alabama
colquitt(at)tusc.net
jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu
I gotta ask.....whats a '3A...is it a trike 3????? ;-)
Ken
RV6A
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ACCPILOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
--> RV-List message posted by: ACCPILOT(at)aol.com
I know someone that uses a Porsche car filter on he's O-320 in his T-18. He
tried some other car filters and had the pressure capability problem, but he
seems to be happy with the Posche filter. If anyone wants to know more (ie
how many hours he has use it, how much they cost etc...) I will try to
remember to ask him.
Tony Cochran
T-18 driver for now
wanting an RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tools for lefties |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>I inquired if they made a left handed version of their Vosburgh Edge
>Former tool. Currently they do not because it would require the
>fabrication of another jig for welding the tool. She suggested holding
>the tool upside down in my left hand. I'm not wild about that idea, as
>I've held ViseGrip tools like that before and it's not comfortable at
>all. I very nice tool becomes clumsy to use.
>Charlie Kuss
Charlie,
Have you considered the edge rolling tool that Avery makes? I'm referring
to the aluminum disk with two nylon rollers attached. This is what I used
on my first RV and what I'm using on Bill's Glastar project. Bill bought
the vice grip edge roller and I tried it a couple of times on "hidden
edges", that is, edges covered by overlapping skins. To me, it was
difficult to adjust. Just the act of tightening down the lock nut changed
the amount of crimp. It took several tries to get things just right. Then,
when going to a different thickness, the tool must be re-adjusted. I also
found it to be more difficult to use.
The advantage that Avery's tool has is that you can adjust the bend as you
work. Run it down the sheet and if it's not enough, increase the angle.
This way, you can approach the amount of "set" that you want. With the
other tool, whatever bend the tool is set with is the bend that you end up
with. I also felt that the Avery type is much easier to keep on track.
Best of all, it's cheaper and works for "lefties" as well as it works for us
regular guys:)
For those of you who use the Avery type edge roller, I found that the tool
works much better if you line the area that contacts the edge of the skin
with some UHMW tape. With the tape, the tool easily glides along the edge.
Bob Skinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | voltage regulator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/I have a quick electrical question which I'm hoping =
/someone can answer easily. I have a Echlin VR-428 =
/voltage regulator. However, I have no documentation =
/for it (I think this is the one that Van's sells). =
/The four connectors are marked I A S F....does anybody =
/know what these stand for so that I can wire it to the =
/alternator?
This terminal convention has been used on the Ford
products for about 35 years. You leave the I terminal
unconnected. Jumper A and S together and run those to
the bus by way of your alternator field switch and =
alternator field circuit breaker. OV protection of some
type goes in this line too . . . I'll mail you the
data on building a crow-bar ov protection module if
your interested.
The F terminal goes to the alternator field.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Ryan Bendures' RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
Ryan,
Saw your RV-4 in July Kitplanes "completions" section. Nice looking
airplane. Is that old pickup that's the same color as the plane yours' too?
Did you wear that shirt when you painted it? Mmmmm one might think you like
red. :-) Congrats' on getting published. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A/I and Vacuum Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: PhilipR920(at)aol.com
I measured my 6A panel tilt @ 8 degrees, and after talking to the technical
people at Sigma-Tek believe that a attitude indicator designed for that angle
is required.
I also called RC Allen re the requirement for the "special" unit but they
couldnt/didn't ever give a recommendation.
I am going to use the Sigma-Tek unit.
Also, the Sigma-Tek vacuum pump is in Chief's catalog @ $354.95 w/no core
required.
Phil Rogerson
6AQ 60057
Installing Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Angiulo
But in the case you describe below what holds the nut onto the pivot
bolt? The turning resistance of just the nylon insert? Maybe that bolt
should be drilled then?
Also do you run washers in between the bushing and the attach brackets?
They are tough to get in place but would be a better bearing surface,
no?
> ----------
> From:
> aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 1997 8:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron bellcrank bushings
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
>
> I believe it does matter. The OD of the bushing should press fit
> ( 1 to
> 2 thousands) into the bellcrank. If the bushing is loose, locktite
> makes some
> decent products that should be able to hold the bushing. The bushing
> should
> turn on the bolt.( 3 to 5 thousands clearance) The idea is that the
> bolt and
> bushing can be easily replaced when worn. I hope you get to fly enough
> to
> wear that sucker out too! The steel weldment is thinner and would
> probably
> wear an oblong hole. I have seen designs where a steel sleeve is
> placed over
> the bolt and trapped in tension by the bolt,washer and nut. The sleeve
> then
> turns in the bearing. This permits tightening the bolt in tension and
> using
> it to retain parts on the outside of a bearing. Not necessary in this
> case.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lycoming Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Bell(at)aol.com
Chuck Ney Enterprises, Inc has six Lycoming O-320 H2HD Engines for sale. His
phone number is 1-800-648-6917. This is information only and does not imply
an endorsement on my part. Bruce Bell rv4bell(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Electric aux fuel pump location ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
Hal, on my first RV-6A I mounted the electric fuel pump just to the rear and
above the forward main gear support arm attach point and that seemed to work
out fine. If you put it in too close, plumbing will be difficcult. I would
not mount the fuel selector valve anywhere that couldn't be reached by a
passenger, just in case. The center location didn't pose a problem for me,
but then I had a center control console to stop my leg from going over very
far.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Hal Kempthorne
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 1997 12:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electric aux fuel pump location ??
--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Hi all - especially you who have flying RV6A's,
Can I put my little Facet fuel pump that Van's sells down in the space
surrounded by the gear leg attach bracket? I feel like the space for legs,
clipboards, Jepps etc is already small so I need to preserve it.
Would it be more comfortable if the fuel valve were down in the same location?
My pax will not need to touch it.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Installing canopy frame
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A/I and Vacuum Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
Scott Gesele wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Gesele
>
> Three quick questions:
>
> 1. Where have most builders obtained their vacuum pump from? It appears
> that all suppliers want a rather expensive core charge. On a new
> installation, I obviously don't have a core.
>
> 2. When installed in an RV-6A, I assume that the A/I needs to be ordered
> with a 7 deg. panel tilt. Is this correct? Will a standard DG work in the
> tilted panel?
>
> 3. Any bad experiences with RC Allen gyros?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott Gesele N506RV (Painting)
Scott
I use RC Allen gyros and have not had a problem and yes it would be
better with the 8 degree angle, I don't have the angle in mine and
the AI works fine I just have to have the little airplane all the
way to the top to line up with horizen line.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head chopper |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
My plans suggest a 3 inch overhang of the panel by
>the forward top skin which is .032. In a crash this might partially
decapitate
>pilot and co.
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Installing canopy frame
Hal,
I trimmed my glare shield on my six, tip-up to about 1 1/2". I took some
old hose off a sprayer, slit the hose, wrapped some black leather around it
and slid it over the edge of the glare shield.
After flying for a couple of years, I've about decided that the glare
shield doesn't do all that much good. That is to say, I don't think there
is much advantage to having a shield that sticks out 2-3 inches. With that
big bubble canopy, the sun is going to shine in and reflect off the panel.
On my next six, I intend to cut the glare shield back to a minimum. Just
enough to put a "bumper" on is what I have in mind. I'll also probably put
in radios with LCD displays. The LEDs of my ARNAV loran and TKM comm tend
to wash out in the light. The E.I. volt/amp gauge (LCD) is easy to read.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)A.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI encoder on Dave Barnharts RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
Concerning my recently assembled RMI uEncoder, Tom Velvick asked:
>Did you buy the kit preassembled or did you solder it together yourself?
>If so, how did the assembly go. How long did it take and did you find out
>anything to watch out for? Was it difficult to calibrate?
I soldered it together myself. It took about 10 hours. Calibrating the
airspeed and terpertaure functions were trivial. Calbrating the altimeter
function will require the use of one of those altimeter/static
system/encoder test sets. If figure I'll do that during the Mode C cert.
(Since my altimeter is freshly overhauled and I have its calibration chart,
it would probably be a simple matter to use it to get the uEncoder 'close
enough' though.)
If you've ever built a Heathkit, you'll have *no* trouble building either
the uEncoder or uMonitor. In fact, in some ways it's easier than a
Heathkit.
I've now built both the uMonitor and the uEncoder. In my opinion, the
uMonitor is definately the easier of the two to build. It's a bigger unit,
and so you have more room to work with.
Having once been in the electronic hardware manufacturing business myself,
I can tell you that both units are great both electronically AND
mechanically.
I've built a lot of electronic kits, and I always get a thrill when power
up one for the first time.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
installing electrical and avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses/circuit breakers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel H. Morris III"
What happens when the CB or fuse is the one that works the landing gear?
Makes the landing a bit rough. Actually had this happen once. There was
an intermittent short. Resetting the CB many times allowed me to get the
gear down and locked. Much better landing that way.
Dan Morris
RV6 working forever on cowlings.
----------
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: Morristec
> Subject: RV-List: Fuses/circuit breakers
> Date: Thursday, June 05, 1997 10:21 AM
>
>
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com [163.179.3.7] by bbs.icdc.com with
smtp
> Received: from matronics.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with UUCP
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> Message-Id: <3396DD47.7854(at)gold.tc.umn.edu>
> Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 10:37:43 -0500
> From: C&F Hiatt <gold.tc.umn.edu!hiatt001(at)matronics.com>
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuses/circuit breakers
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: C&F Hiatt
>
> FWIW here is my $0.02 worth.
>
> During the 2500 + hours flying Military jets, I don't recall ever
> resetting a circuit breaker, in fact, in the F-86 the circuit breakers
> were located aft of the pilots elbow. Being a large person, there was no
> way that I could have reached the ckt brkrs even if I wanted to. I
> believe, as others do, don't try to repair/trouble shoot a ckt brkr/fuse
> problem in the air. While in the air - FLY THE AIRPLANE - if the failure
> is serious enough to need a fix, LAND THE AIRPLANE. Nuff said.
>
> Fred Hiatt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<< My critical assessment of the advertisement for the EXP-Bus =
<< was that it saves neither time, weight, dollars nor does it add any =
<< level of safety over other circuit protection methods and =
<< I explained why I thought so. =
/Does it subtract any level of safety? In other words is =
/it dangerous? Other that having a long battery line that is =
/always hot? =
Not running the starter cranking current through the battery
master is a safety issue. If the starter contactor sticks,
you have no way to shut the starter down until the battery
gives up (had on melt down severely in a Glasair) or the starter
burns out.
The self-reseting nature of poly-fuses can hide a latent failure;
you can be suffering intermittant short that you don't catch
because the poly-switch resets when the short clears. I'd prefer
to have the fuse/breaker open immediately letting me know that
something is going on that needs attention before the next flight.
The last time I looked at an EXP-Bus and it's competitors at
OSH last year, they were both dropping wires directly to pads on
a p.c. board with no insulation support. After going to the trouble
to use PIDG terminals on the rest of your wiring, it seems prudent
that insulation support in the rest of the system would be nice.
One version of the EXP-Bus installation uses the terminals of the
switches to suport the etched circuit board. This adds mechanical =
stresses to the switch terminals for which they were not designed.
Slight mis-alignment of the row of switches would aggravate the proble=
m.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<< My critical assessment of the advertisement for the EXP-Bus =
<< was that it saves neither time, weight, dollars nor does it add any =
<< level of safety over other circuit protection methods and =
<< I explained why I thought so. =
/Does it subtract any level of safety? In other words is =
/it dangerous? Other that having a long battery line that is =
/always hot? =
Not running the starter cranking current through the battery
master is a safety issue. If the starter contactor sticks,
you have no way to shut the starter down until the battery
gives up (had on melt down severely in a Glasair) or the starter
burns out.
The self-reseting nature of poly-fuses can hide a latent failure;
you can be suffering intermittant short that you don't catch
because the poly-switch resets when the short clears. I'd prefer
to have the fuse/breaker open immediately letting me know that
something is going on that needs attention before the next flight.
The last time I looked at an EXP-Bus and it's competitors at
OSH last year, they were both dropping wires directly to pads on
a p.c. board with no insulation support. After going to the trouble
to use PIDG terminals on the rest of your wiring, it seems prudent
that insulation support in the rest of the system would be nice.
One version of the EXP-Bus installation uses the terminals of the
switches to suport the etched circuit board. This adds mechanical =
stresses to the switch terminals for which they were not designed.
Slight mis-alignment of the row of switches would aggravate the proble=
m.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A/I and Vacuum Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel H. Morris III"
Try Dodson International. 913 878-4000 Good used vacuum pumps. I think
that I paid $100.
Dan Morris
----------
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: Morristec
> Subject: RV-List: A/I and Vacuum Pump
> Date: Thursday, June 05, 1997 11:56 AM
>
>
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com [163.179.3.8] by bbs.icdc.com with
smtp
> Received: from matronics.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with UUCP
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> Message-Id: <2.2.32.19970605142404.006e52e0(at)icsnet.com>
> X-Sender: scottg(at)icsnet.com (Unverified)
> X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Pro Version 2.2 (32)
> Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 10:24:04 -0400
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> From: Scott Gesele <icsnet.com!scottg(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: A/I and Vacuum Pump
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Gesele
>
> Three quick questions:
>
> 1. Where have most builders obtained their vacuum pump from? It
appears
> that all suppliers want a rather expensive core charge. On a new
> installation, I obviously don't have a core.
>
> 2. When installed in an RV-6A, I assume that the A/I needs to be ordered
> with a 7 deg. panel tilt. Is this correct? Will a standard DG work in
the
> tilted panel?
>
> 3. Any bad experiences with RC Allen gyros?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott Gesele N506RV (Painting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)A.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: To fiddle or not to fiddle . . . |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
I too, have been watching this thread about breakers vs fuses, exp-bus, etc
for some time. As much as I respect Bob Nuckolls, I am not always in
agreement with him.
And one of those subjects is breakers vs fuses. First an anecdote: A
combination of circumstances occured that caused a Republic Airlines DC-9
to be refueled with far less fuel than the crew assumed was aboard. Those
circumstances were:
1. Standard Operating Procedure was to fuel the aircraft in Phoenix with
enough fuel for the round-trip flight to Las Vegas and back.
2. For some reason, the aircraft was fueled in Phoenix one day with only
enough fuel for a one-way trip.
3. Displatch was to inform the crew and Las Vegas about the change in
fueling and advise them to re-fuel the aircraft in Las Vegas for the return
trip. For some reason, neither crew nor Las Vegas were so informed.
4. For some reason, the crew did not receive a fuel slip in Phoenix telling
them how much fuel was on board the aircraft.
5. The fuel gauge circuit breakers kept popping and so were left open and
the gauges noted as 'inoperative'.
So of course, no one was aware of the fuel situation, and the aircraft was
not re-fueled in Las Vegas. About 60 miles out of Phoenix on the return
trip, the low fuel pressure warning went on, indicating a pending fuel
starvation. One of the crew fortuitously forced the breakers for the fuel
guages to the ON position and manually held them there long enough for the
gauges to indicate the true nature of the fuel situation.
The Captain throttled back to idle, declared an emergency, and safely
landed the aircraft at Luke Air Force Base a few miles west of Phoenix.
Actual measurement indicated that approximately four minutes worth of fuel
remained in the tanks.
Aircraft accidents are seldom due to a single cause. Instead they are
usually due to a chain of failures. Break one link in the chain and the
accident is avoided. You could quite rightly say that avoiding ANY of the
failures in the above chain would have also saved that Republic flight.
The FACT, however, is that if the fuel gauge circuit in that DC-9 had been
protected with a fuse instead of a circuit breaker, the flight would have
ended quite differently.
OK, fine, this incident is anecdotal, and it is faulty logic to argue from
the specific to the general. And it's true that pilots are suspicious of
anything new or 'innovative'. I admit to curmudgeonly instincts myself. I
maintain, however, that suspicion of anything new or different is
well-founded. The reason is that when something goes wrong, it is the
pilot who usually has to deal with it; usually has to suffer the
consequences. Thus the tendency to stick with the tried and true can be
viewed as a survival tactic.
As for me, I like options and lots of them. The more the merrier, in fact.
I like the *option* of troubleshooting in flight. I believe that the
decision *not* to troubleshoot an electrical problem in flight should be a
*command* decision, not a *design* decision.
Bob has chosen to use and recommend automotive fuses, and I respect his
decision. In *my* airplane, however, you'll find a nice little row of
Potter & Brumfield circuit breakers. And knowing Bob as the proffessional
he is, I'm sure he respects my decision too.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
installing electrical and avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Craig Nelson
Hi everyone,
My question is, after I prime my parts ( Vari-prime by Dupont) , and
after I assemble them ( rivet)
should I or do you go back and re-spray the rivets? I guess what I
trying to ask is, are rivets prone
to corrosion. I have not read anything on rivet corrosion or re-priming
of parts. I could be parking
my plane at the coast at times and I am trying to get a good primer
job. Thanks for any answers in
advance.
cgn(at)pond.net
Craig G. Nelson
Eugene, OR
building RV-6 empenage, nearly completed
going to pick-up wing kit Friday at Van's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: voltage regulator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
<< The four connectors on the regulator are marked I A S F....
does anybody know what these stand for so that I can wire it to the
alternator? >>
Grant-
Get a copy of AeroElectric Connection and look at Page Z-6 (gatefold) for a
complete diagram. Be aware that the 5/96 revision of this drawing has an
error (a CADo vs a TYPo) in depicting the schematic of bridge rectifier
internal diodes. The proper external terminal connections to the bridge are
correct however.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: voltage regulator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin Tinckler"
----------
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <compuserve.com!RNuckolls(at)matronics.com>
> To: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: voltage regulator
> Date: Thursday, June 05, 1997 4:12 PM
. OV protection of some
> type goes in this line too . . . I'll mail you the
> data on building a crow-bar ov protection module if
> your interested.
>
> The F terminal goes to the alternator field.
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
Hello Bob !
I have an elec. Westach tach which tells me to connect power
lead to my distributor, or ignition source. I don't have a distributor and
don't believe that today's cars have either. I assume I should connect to a
mag, but since the "P" leads are soldered at tip and enclosed in hex nut,
where should I connect this wire ?
Also, I would very much like a copy of the "crowbar" if you could
advise me as to how to receive it. (e-mail)? I have also seen a voltage reg
with only one wire coming out of it which I assume goes to "Alt" switch, no
"S" that I can see.
What of the import alternators with built in regulators ? Are
these safe to use in an aircraft ?
Thank you for your consideration,
Regards,
A.Tinckler.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
| From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
--> RV-List message posted by: ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY)
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Cafgef(at)aol.com
>
>
><< adapt a car filter >>
>I've heard that car filters will not hold up under the vibration and
>pressure. Can anyone conferm or deny?
>Gene cafgef(at)aol.com
>
I've heard this also, even though I can't speak from experience. Sounds
to me like a good reason to avoid auto filters. Seems to me I saw a
recent post from someone else saying the same thing.
Allan Pomeroy CNY
AB6A(at)juno.com
HS, beginning skinning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
--> RV-List message posted by: less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS)
(Ken Hitchmough) writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken
>Hitchmough)
>
>
>
>Joe Colquitt
>Flying RV-3A - Alabama
>colquitt(at)tusc.net
>jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu
>
>
>I gotta ask.....whats a '3A...is it a trike 3????? ;-)
>
>Ken
>
>RV6A
>Flying
>
Hi All,
The RV-3A was an RV-3 with a trailing edge wing spar attachment
modification and a center section wing root rib of .032 substituted for
the center section rib.
Sorry. Not a trike!!
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A Ivoprop RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: To fiddle or not to fiddle . . . |
--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
>5. The fuel gauge circuit breakers kept popping and so were left open and
>the gauges noted as 'inoperative'.
>So of course, no one was aware of the fuel situation.
>Aircraft accidents are seldom due to a single cause. Instead they are
>usually due to a chain of failures. Break one link in the chain and the
>accident is avoided.
>Dave Barnhart
Is it not a violation of FAR's to fly without an operable fuel gauge?
(Either mechanical or electrical). I hardly think that one that has to be
operated by pushing and holding in the CKT breaker would qualify as
operable. There's a weak link! Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Electric aux fuel pump location ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough)
Can I put my little Facet fuel pump that Van's sells down in the space
surrounded by the gear leg attach bracket? I feel like the space for legs,
clipboards, Jepps etc is already small so I need to preserve it.
Would it be more comfortable if the fuel valve were down in the same location?
FWIW, the AirBeetle had two Facets, one mounted at each wing root OUTSIDE the 'plane.
I'm not 100%
sure why it had two, but the location seemed to work fine. It probably wouldn't
be as neat if you
used just one because of the routing of the pipes.
I have fuel injection and have had to put a facet before my hi pressure pump to
ensure it is
primed. Mine sits ahead of the selector on the floor. It sandwiches nicely inside
a centre wall I
have between the pax and pilot's legs.
As for the selector...I think I'd leave that where it is. Its obvious to others
and the pax could
reach it in an emergency.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley) |
| Subject: | Re: priming parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley)
Craig,
You could wait to topcoat the Vari-prime until after you have riveted.
Only the rivets would not have primer on them, just topcoat. You are
topcoating the Vari-prime like Dupont recommends, right?
Curtis Hinkley
RV8-80015
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
Craig G. Nelson wrote:
>
>Hi everyone,
>My question is, after I prime my parts ( Vari-prime by Dupont) , and
>after I assemble them ( rivet)should I or do you go back and re-spray
the rivets? I guess what I trying to ask is, are rivets prone
>to corrosion. I have not read anything on rivet corrosion or
re-priming of parts. I could be parking my plane at the coast at times
and I am trying to get a good primer job. Thanks for any answers in
>advance.
Craig G. Nelson
>Eugene, OR
>building RV-6 empenage, nearly completed
>going to pick-up wing kit Friday at Van's
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Colquitt" <jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
> I gotta ask.....whats a '3A...is it a trike 3????? ;-)
>
> Ken
Ken, an RV-3A is an RV with a beefed up aft-spar to carrythrough
connection. Early RV-3s had a single lap-over where the aft spar
joined the carrythough. RV-3As have a two-pronged connection. Thus, a
stronger wing. The joint was modified after several early RV-3s lost
wings during aerobatics. My plane actually has beefed main and aft
spars. You cannot tell the difference externally; one must remove the
wing-fuselage fairing to see the connection point. If this send
correctly, you'll see. Looking down, fuselage on left, wing right.
RV-3:
xx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xx
vs. RV-3A:
xx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xx
No trike.
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A
colquitt(at)tusc.net
Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Colquitt" <jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu> |
| Subject: | A/I and Vacuum Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
RE: Vacuum pump TBOs
Phil Rogerson noted:
> Also, the Sigma-Tek vacuum pump is in Chief's catalog @ $354.95 w/no core
> required.
>
I think Sigma-Tek has put a 700 hour TBO on their vacuum pump. If so,
any thoughts on that? Sales gimmick? Long-needed mfgr. advice? Any
effect on GA? (such as liability limitations for S-T, increased
liability potential for us - if one flies beyond the TBO, loses
vacuum while flying IFR and has an accident)? ???
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A
[no vacuum system] ;-)
Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank bushings |
<9106B0327B3ACF11ACEF00805FD47A0B032071C2@RED-67-MSG.dns.microsoft.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Arter
Michael Angiulo wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Michael Angiulo
>
> But in the case you describe below what holds the nut onto the pivot
> bolt? The turning resistance of just the nylon insert? Maybe that
> bolt should be drilled then?
>
> Also do you run washers in between the bushing and the attach
> brackets? They are tough to get in place but would be a better bearing surface,
> no?
Mike, hi
You are right, if the nut is loose enough for the bellcrank to turn on
the bolt, then the bolt can turn also and must be drilled and a castle
nut & cotter pin used. Pivoting on the bolt has some advantages, like a
better bearing surface at the ends. But, because of the hardware
supplied, I assumed it had to pivot on the OD of the bushing. The bolt
supplied was not drilled, and no castle nut. However, there is nothing
on the drawing or in the directions about turning on the bolt vs turning
on the OD of the bushing.
While its true the steel weldment is thinner, it has a lot more surface
area to spread the load and won't necessarily wear out any faster than
the other way.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
> > ----------
> > From:
> > aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com]
> > Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Thursday, June 05, 1997 8:13 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron bellcrank bushings
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
> >
> > I believe it does matter. The OD of the bushing should press
> fit
> > ( 1 to
> > 2 thousands) into the bellcrank. If the bushing is loose, locktite
> > makes some
> > decent products that should be able to hold the bushing. The bushing
> > should
> > turn on the bolt.( 3 to 5 thousands clearance) The idea is that the
> > bolt and
> > bushing can be easily replaced when worn. I hope you get to fly
> enough
> > to
> > wear that sucker out too! The steel weldment is thinner and would
> > probably
> > wear an oblong hole. I have seen designs where a steel sleeve is
> > placed over
> > the bolt and trapped in tension by the bolt,washer and nut. The
> sleeve
> > then
> > turns in the bearing. This permits tightening the bolt in tension
> and
> > using
> > it to retain parts on the outside of a bearing. Not necessary in
> this
> > case.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
| Subject: | To fiddle or not to fiddle . . . |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Walsh
>>Reply to your message of 6/6/97 4:04 AM
=09
>>5. The fuel gauge circuit breakers kept popping and so were left open
an=
d
>>the gauges noted as inoperative.
>>
=09
Dave, =20
While your point is well taken, I think your example makes Bobs point more=
than your own.
If the circuit breakers "kept popping", the plane should have been grounded=
and repaired=20
not continued flying ( how many flights??? ). If the circuitry were fixed=
, the crew would have known how much fuel they had BEFORE they even took of=
f. =20
A similar situation resulted in the famous Gimli glider 757 incident. If t=
hey just fixed the damned gauges
there would have been no problem.
I think it may be best to simply have two busses/alternators etc. However=
, I'm not sure my weight budget can afford it(RV4). I am determined not t=
o get sucked into the trend of heavier and heavier airplanes.
John =20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses/circuit breakers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Moore
> > Fred Hiatt wrote:
> > During the 2500 + hours flying Military jets, I don't recall ever
> > resetting a circuit breaker, in fact, in the F-86 the circuit breakers
> > were located aft of the pilots elbow. Being a large person, there was no
> > way that I could have reached the ckt brkrs even if I wanted to.
> Daniel H. Morris III wrote:
> What happens when the CB or fuse is the one that works the landing gear?
> Makes the landing a bit rough.
Yeah,
Those guys with ejection seats always had a different outlook
on flying than us Boeing guys who had to ride them down. :-)
Wish I had a nickle for every CB that I've reset in 40 years!
Bob Moore
PANAM (retired)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
charset="iso-8859-1"
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal"
If you use a commercial quality filter like a Baldwin, Donaldson or a
Fleetguard you should have no problems(just an opinion, not a
reccomendation). They are made with metal end caps, hydraulic pressure
cans, rolled threads, and heavy duty base plates. Just because it fits
does not mean it has the same internal hardware. You also need to be aware
if the aircraft filter has a bypass valve in it and if so at what pressure,
if it has an antidrainback valve or standpipe. The filter media and
capacity should be fine in any automotive filter.
If you use an automotive fiter that you buy at a discount house or a parts
store or any of the $2.99 deals you are on your own. If you wonder about
the difference cut them apart. You should always do that anyway on an A/C.
If you need a filter cutter, see my homepage, and give us a call
WWW.Petroblend.com. They are available from any full line commercial
filter distributor.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)netins.net
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
PS I finally found and bought a -4, pick it up monday, YIPPEE!
----
From: ALLAN E POMEROY <juno.com!ab6a(at)matronics.com>
Date: Friday, June 06, 1997 7:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AC Oil Filter (chatter)
>--> RV-List message posted by: ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY)
>
>
>writes:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Cafgef(at)aol.com
>>
>>
>><< adapt a car filter >>
>>I've heard that car filters will not hold up under the vibration and
>>pressure. Can anyone conferm or deny?
>>Gene cafgef(at)aol.com
>>
>I've heard this also, even though I can't speak from experience. Sounds
>to me like a good reason to avoid auto filters. Seems to me I saw a
>recent post from someone else saying the same thing.
>
>Allan Pomeroy CNY
>AB6A(at)juno.com
>HS, beginning skinning
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: rvbildr(at)juno.com
I added a sub panel to mine and req'd shortening the sticks. Van's said
just cut them off 'til your hand clears the panel with your thumb on the
button.
Mal
rvbildr(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Tony,
I'd like to know more
Charlie Kuss
snipped
> I know someone that uses a Porsche car filter on he's O-320 in his T-18. He
> tried some other car filters and had the pressure capability problem, but he
> seems to be happy with the Posche filter. If anyone wants to know more (ie
> how many hours he has use it, how much they cost etc...) I will try to
> remember to ask him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Reamer Sources? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
<< Does anyone know of a mail-order source for straight fluted reamers
(one or two - not a $$$ set!). >>
Skystar sells them for use in building the Kifox. Call them at 208-466-1711
and talk to Dave Morris.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tools for lefties |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Bob Skinner wrote:
snipped
Charlie,
Have you considered the edge rolling tool that Avery makes?
Hi Bob,
Yes, but the locals don't think much of the Avery tool.They are A&P's
who do sheet metal on KingAirs and LearJets. I've got a lot of respect
for their opinions, plus one of them is a lefty.
To me, it was
> difficult to adjust. Just the act of tightening down the lock nut changed
> the amount of crimp. It took several tries to get things just right. Then,
> when going to a different thickness, the tool must be re-adjusted. I also
> found it to be more difficult to use.
I guess that just goes to show that everyone has different likes and
tastes. I guess we all use what works for us.
> For those of you who use the Avery type edge roller, I found that the tool
> works much better if you line the area that contacts the edge of the skin
> with some UHMW tape. With the tape, the tool easily glides along the edge.
Bob, what does UHMW stand for? I've seen this a number of times and
haven't got a clue.
Charlie Kuss
ordering RV-8 tail tomorrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Reamer Sources? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
I have had good results with ENCO manufacturing out of Chicago. They
have outlets all over the country. Most of their product is imported.
(China, Taiwan, Japan) If you buy their top of the line products, you will be
OK. Pricing is as good as I have found. 1 800 USE ENCO. They carry straight
reamers and adjustable straight reamers in a variety of sizes. You can order
any size you want.
McMaster Carr (see RV Yeller Pages) also carries reamers
The close tolerance reamers that I have used came from Cleveland Tools.
I also believe Avery carries an assortment typically used on the RV series.
We are fortunate in that the tolerances on the RV's are not extremely
critical. Since we are working with soft materials and the usage is limited,
you really don't need a super high quality reamer. Be advised that when
reaming, technique (particularly alignment and speed) play a role in
determining whether you end up with a hole close to that indicated on the
reamer. Expect a 1 to 3 thousands hole difference between the reamer size
and the hole. (It typically is bigger although I have seen some that ream
smaller) Try it on a test section to make sure it will give satisfactory
results. Use a slow speed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
<< But in the case you describe below what holds the nut onto the pivot
bolt? The turning resistance of just the nylon insert? Maybe that bolt
should be drilled then? >>
I believe the plans do call for drilled bolt heads and safety wires on
bearing bolts i.e. at the bellcranks, control sticks, contol columns and
control rods. The RV4 plans do call out for thin steel washers ( my
appologies I don't have the plans or part number available to me at this time
- will forward) between the ends of the bushings or bearings and any
containment pieces. The washer provides a larger surface area to minimize the
wear. At the bellcrank in the wings and tail (without the washers) you would
have the thin steel inner bearing race rubbing against aluminum. At the
control columns, the thin bronze would be rubbing against steel plate.
I don't have a alam dunk method for sliding the washers in place. It
takes a little patience. I usually use a thin piece of aluminum with a
semi-circle cut out at the end to move the washers into position. Putting the
washers in place when the washers final position is vertical and the space
isn't quite wide enough is a challenge.
Van's keeps it simple and econmical. Another alternative to consider,
provided you have access to a lathe and mill, is to manufacture bronze
inserts that press fit into the outer control column plates. The hole in the
control column plates would be enlarged by one quarter of an inch (this
provides for the wall thickness on the insert). The side view of the insert
would be T shaped such that the larger inner boss would serve as the bearing
surface area between the bronze sleeve and the outer control colmn plates and
keep the insert frm being pressed to the outside under compression forces.
The width of the control stick or other bearings being contained would have
to be reduced by the thickness of the inner bosses or the mechanism length
expanded. The basic advantage is that the inserts can be replaced when worn
and you don't have the containment bolt turning on steel in the outer steel
or aluminum plates. This would also elliminate the need for the steel
washers.
I would also add that if you get to fly often enough to wear out the
system as originally designed by Van's, I will be envious to say the least.
Tom Brown - RV4
fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ryan Bendures' RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Al,
Actually the red pickup was the painters. I just thought red was something
he liked to shoot. He did a nice job.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A/I and Vacuum Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>> Also, the Sigma-Tek vacuum pump is in Chief's catalog @ $354.95 w/no core
>> required.
>>
>I think Sigma-Tek has put a 700 hour TBO on their vacuum pump.
Chief catalog implies Sigma-Tek has a 1000 hr/2 year warranty.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | dual boost pumps? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< I have fuel injection and have had to put a facet before my hi pressure
pump to ensure it is
primed. >>
Ken:
So, you have a (low pressure) Facet pump feeding your Hi-pressure (Dukes
brand? These don't like to be run dry.) boost pump, which feeds the mech
pump? Thatsa lotta pumps, man! How are the boost pumps wired (separate
switches, or both at once)?
FYI, Airflow Perf. has a pump ( with by-pass) that's a bit more friendly to
"dry runs". It's not FAA-PMA'd, though.
I've never run a tank dry inflight to see if the pump will get the internal
combustion thingerator in front going again. I'm guessing/hoping that with
the engine driven pump helping, the exhaust noise would start up again, thus
cooling the pilot a bit. I hate changing underware at a fuel stop ( due to
the previously mentioned fuel exhaustion).
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin Tinckler"
We had a fatal stall spin occur here yesterday. A pilot purported to be a
commercial with lots of experience had, according to a witness, an engine
fail (loud crack) at 400 ft. The pilot of the little Cessna tried to turn
back and stall spiralled in.
Now I know what we were all told as students what to do in this
case, my question is, has anyone practiced the turn back maneuver to see
just how much altitude is required in an RV ? Van's newsletter suggested
this a while ago as a way to see for yourself just what may be possible and
how much height is lost doing this.
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Colquitt" <jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu> |
| Subject: | A/I and Vacuum Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
I wrote:
> >I think Sigma-Tek has put a 700 hour TBO on their vacuum pump.
>
Bob Acker wrote:
> Chief catalog implies Sigma-Tek has a 1000 hr/2 year warranty.
>
*Bob Acker is right.* Sigma-Tek's "pump page"
<http://www.sigmatek.com/pump.html>
says 2 years / 1000 hours. I stand corrected, but now I must go to
the article I read this week that said 700 hours and see why *they*
said 700 hours. . . . .
My questions concerning component TBOs, liability, justification,
etc., remain whether 700 hours or 1000 hours.
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A
colquitt(at)tusc.net
Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses/circuit breakers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> Daniel H. Morris III wrote: =
> What happens when the CB or fuse is the one that works the landing gear=
? =
> Makes the landing a bit rough. =
Yes . . . but again, why would the breaker/fuse open? If it nuisance
trips,
it's too small, if it trips for real, something is amiss. This is why =
I
try to get builders to consider the PRIMARY gear extension system as
being
the one that has the lowest parts count and is LEAST dependent upon
other
equipment and therefore is most likely to work EVERY time . . . of
course
this would be the emergency gear extension system. The SECONDARY syste=
m
with all the pumps, motors, relays, switches and lights is used most
often because of it's CONVENIENCE but I'll suggest spending time
worrying
about it is much less productive than making sure that the PRIMARY
system
is in good shape.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
I would be very careful not to cut off your control sticks any more than
absolutely necessary. At speeds over 200 mph the controls begin to get rather
stiff, requiring more input force, and more responsive to given inputs. Also,
newbies to sport aircraft flying qualities will tend to over-control initially
and the longer sticks help to alleviate this. JMHO.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/N24LW (res)/finish kit
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of juno.com!rvbildr(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 06, 1997 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Panel
--> RV-List message posted by: rvbildr(at)juno.com
I added a sub panel to mine and req'd shortening the sticks. Van's said
just cut them off 'til your hand clears the panel with your thumb on the
button.
Mal
rvbildr(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: To fiddle or not to fiddle . . . |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Moore
Al Mojzisik wrote:
> Is it not a violation of FAR's to fly without an operable fuel gauge?
> (Either mechanical or electrical). I hardly think that one that has to be
> operated by pushing and holding in the CKT breaker would qualify as
> operable. There's a weak link! Al
All of those mechanical and electrical things required by FARs,
are required to be operating at the time of takeoff only.
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
If the starter contactor sticks, you have no way to shut =
the starter down until the battery gives up (had on melt =
down severely in a Glasair) or the starter burns out. =
=
/NOT SURE HOW TO INTERPRET THIS. THE EXP USES THE STARTER =
/INPUT TO AUTOMATICALLY SHUT DOWN THE AVIONICS BUSS DURING =
/STARTS. A BIG PLUS IN MY BOOK IN THAT IT'LL MAKE MY VISITS =
/TO THE RADIO SHOP FAR MORE INFREQUENT.
Actually, starter "glitches and spikes" were never really
a radio killer issue . . . low bus voltage was. I was at Cessna
in the 60's when the avionics master switch was born. Airplanes
sitting in the delivery patch would be 30-60 days before delivery.
Batteries got low and when a pilot jumped in to take delivery
of the airplane, quite often the battery would just barely
pull the engine up on compression and quit. The fragile, =
germanium transistors of the time would come out of saturation
in the power supplies, go into second breakdown and voila, "my
starter just killed my radio."
It took us years later to understand the phenomenon and in the
mean time, DO-160 says you'll design a radio to take anything
an airplane will throw at it. Germanium has long since been =
replaced by more rugged silicon. Radio manufacturers have become
a lot smarter. Alternator runaway overvoltage is the only
"gremlin" left to guard against.
The issue I was speaking to was the sticking of the main terminal
pathway in a starter contactor . . one of the most common occurances
in the Stancore 70 series contactors (old RBM controls devices
used in most Cessnas and offered by Aircraft Spruce). If your starter=
is
powered directly from the battery hot post via a single contactor,
sticking of that contactor gets you an uncontrollable starter
runaway. If you look at how certified ships have always been
wired, shutting of the battery master always shuts off the starter
too . . . irrespective of the starter contactor condition.
---------------
The self-reseting nature of poly-fuses can hide a latent failure; =
you can be suffering intermittant short that you don't catch =
because the poly-switch resets when the short clears. I'd prefer =
to have the fuse/breaker open immediately letting me know that
something is going on that needs attention before the next flight.
/FORGET ABOUT THE ANNUNCIATOR PANEL? ALSO BREAKERS RARELY OPERATE =
/AT THE SAME VALUE ( ERROR CAN EQUAL X 100s%) EACH TIME AND I REFUSE =
/TO CONSIDER OR DISCUSS FUSES.
Don't understand . . most airplanes have no annunciator panel. The
latent failure is a condition that is hidden to the pilot and if
intermittant in nature, can lurk around for a long time before
it's presence is noted. If a self reseting poly-switch masks it's =
existence, then many opportunities to note it and fix it are lost.
-----------
The last time I looked at an EXP-Bus and it's competitors at =
OSH last year, they were both dropping wires directly to pads on
a p.c. board with no insulation support. After going to the trouble
to use PIDG terminals on the rest of your wiring, it seems prudent
that insulation support in the rest of the system would be nice. =
/A BUCK OR 2 AT THE LOCAL ELECTRONICS SUPPLY WILL SOLVE THIS ONE
How? One could apply RTV around the wires where they go into the
board for additional support. . . .
--------------
One version of the EXP-Bus installation uses the terminals of the =
switches to suport the etched circuit board. This adds mechanical =
stresses to the switch terminals for which they were not designed.
Slight mis-alignment of the row of switches would aggravate the proble=
m.
/AN HONEST CONCERN OF MINE. REMOTELY MOUNTED SWITCHES ELIMINATE THIS =
/POTENTIAL PROBLEM. =
Sure . . . so when you've dismounted the switches the number of
wire segments required to assemble the airplane is the same as if
you'd used either fuse-blocks or circuit breakers . . . therefore,
no time or effort saved as compared with fuse-blocks, it does
still eliminate the time to lay out and fabricate a breaker panel
and it saves the panel space too.
It just occured to me that EXP-Bus wiring as I perceive it currently
offers no opportunity to incorporate the a battery-maximizing
essential bus concept for dealing with alternator or battery master
relay failures.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Electric aux fuel pump location ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft)
Hi Hal,
I found that a good location is right below the fuel selector inside the
same housing. You will need a 90 degree angle fitting at the bottom of the
pump to go to the left side of the fuselage. I mounted the pump on an
.063" angle going across the upright pieces that mount to the main spar
plates. This way it's all hidden. You can even run the power wire right
up the center console if your using one. I also hooked up an idiot light
to the circuit to tell me when the boost pump is on. It's amazing how long
you can fly with it on even with a light blaring you in the face. Good
luck.
>--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
>
>Hi all - especially you who have flying RV6A's,
>
>Can I put my little Facet fuel pump that Van's sells down in the space
>surrounded by the gear leg attach bracket? I feel like the space for legs,
>clipboards, Jepps etc is already small so I need to preserve it.
>
>Would it be more comfortable if the fuel valve were down in the same
location?
>My pax will not need to touch it.
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Installing canopy frame
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
>
>
>
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: To fiddle or not to fiddle . . . |
<3.0.1.32.19970606075907.006a0680(at)iwaynet.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Moore
>
>Al Mojzisik wrote:
>> Is it not a violation of FAR's to fly without an operable fuel gauge?
>> (Either mechanical or electrical). I hardly think that one that has to be
>> operated by pushing and holding in the CKT breaker would qualify as
>> operable. There's a weak link! Al
>
>All of those mechanical and electrical things required by FARs,
>are required to be operating at the time of takeoff only.
>
>Bob Moore
>
Bob,
With all due respect it was noted in note #5 that the fuel gauges were
"inoperable" and left for us to assume "before takeoff" as it was noted in
the log. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Stick Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
I offer a different slant on the "short stick" controversy: Sensitivity
comes in two flavors. 1) Gs per linear arc length of stick displacement and
2) Gs per ounce of stick displacement force. If you grasp the stick 16
inches from the pivot you have to apply, hypothetically, 10 ounces of force
through a displacement of say, 1 inch to induce a 1-G pullup.
Now if you grab the stick 8 inches from the pivot you have to apply a force
of 20 ounces through a displacement of 1/2 inch to obtain the same 1-G
pullup.
I find that my body's servo feedback mechanism is force driven rather than
displacement driven. In my very brief 5 hours stick time in RVs I always
find myself grasping the stick as low to the pivot as I can. In my first
demo ride in a 6A the instructor told me to hold the stick low to prevent
overcontrolling. I believe the long sticks are needed by the guys who do
aerobatics.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig (looking forward to cutting the sticks)
----------
> From: les williams <msn.com!lesliebwilliams(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-6 Panel
> Date: Friday, June 06, 1997 9:50 AM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
>
> I would be very careful not to cut off your control sticks any more than
> absolutely necessary. At speeds over 200 mph the controls begin to get
rather
> stiff, requiring more input force, and more responsive to given inputs.
Also,
> newbies to sport aircraft flying qualities will tend to over-control
initially
> and the longer sticks help to alleviate this. JMHO.
>
> Les Williams/RV-6AQ/N24LW (res)/finish kit
>
> ----------
> From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of
juno.com!rvbildr(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, June 06, 1997 6:51 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Panel
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: rvbildr(at)juno.com
>
> I added a sub panel to mine and req'd shortening the sticks. Van's said
> just cut them off 'til your hand clears the panel with your thumb on the
> button.
> Mal
> rvbildr(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI encoder on Dave Barnharts RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
(Snip)
. Calbrating the altimeter
>function will require the use of one of those altimeter/static
>system/encoder test sets.
>
(Snip)
I just gotten my encoder....does RMI read altitude with out a seperate
altimeter as a source?
Have A Great Day!
Denny
Denton Harjehausen
retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com
RV-6/ Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: priming parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
> My question is, after I prime my parts ( Vari-prime by Dupont) , and
> after I assemble them ( rivet)
> should I or do you go back and re-spray the rivets? I guess what I
[snip!]
> my plane at the coast at times and I am trying to get a good primer
> job. Thanks for any answers in advance.
Craig:
Normally I wouldn't worry about the rivet heads, but I too spend a lot
of time at the coast. I doubt it matters much but it seems to me it
would be easy to shoot the rivet lines with a rattle can of zinc
chromate, if only for some extra peace of mind. I did this on my
empenage but sort of bagged it after that. If I ever actually moved
down to the coast, I'd probably start a regular regimen of fogging with
Corrosion-X anyway.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head chopper |
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
Bob,
I did similar with my glare shield but I have to somewhat disagree with your
assessment of the glare shield's utility. Your absolutely right that it
doesn't help with the avionics displays. However, I (mistakenly so?) painted
my instrument panel white. While I think it looks pretty neat it does cause
considerable gare against the canopy. If it were not for the glare shield it
would be a big distraction. Next time the panel will be a dark color.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses vs Breakers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Moore"
I have been watching with some amusement the ongoing discussion of the
fuse/breaker issue, so I thought I'd add my opinion. My experience is with
the operation, maintenance, and engineering of nuclear power plants - both
Navy submarines and commercial power plants. Every detail of my plant has
been engineered and analysed. Failure modes and redundancy are basic
concepts in the design. Here is our experience.
We use thousands of fuses: fast blo, slow blo, glass, ceramic, every type
from 1 to 100 amps. Most of the electronics and digital systems are
protected with them. They are reliable, inexpensive, have predictable and
repeatable characteristics, and we would never even THINK about replacing
them with breakers. There is nothing "old fashioned" about them.
We also use hundreds of circuit breakers. The difference has to do with
application. Breakers are used when a complex control scheme is needed to
turn the effected component on and off, or with some very high current
applications. Breakers are also reliable, predictable, and repeatable with
their trip characteristics. But they are more expensive and require
maintenance and calibration. (The small ones we use in our planes are much
simpler.)
I am perfectly comfortable using ATC fuses (automotive style) in my RV-6
and have purchased the bus for these from B&C. I am also using breakers in
some applications. Either one will work to provide needed circuit
protection.
Regarding troubleshooting electrical problems in the air, I think it is a
bad idea. We deal with electrical troubleshooting on-line frequently, but
we have the staff to do it properly. There is always somebody dedicated to
"driving the boat". If you lose your electrical system in the air, I
recommend a procedure, very short, already thought out and written down, to
be followed. This is the time to keep your head out the cockpit, not
buried in your panel, scratching your head. Remember Eastern Air Lines, a
perfectly good airplane flown into the Florida swamp because the crew was
working on an electrical problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Colwell <colwell(at)innercite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AC Oil Filter (chatter) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Colwell
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal"
>
I have had a Capehart Lifetime Oil Filter for about 200 hours on a 6
with an O-360. It is the same aproximate size as a Champion type filter
and a cleanable, inspectable ss screen with two rare earth supermagnets
to catch the ferrous stuff. It is TSOed, etc. has bypass valves and is
of very high quality. Inspection is easy, when I wash down the screen
with mineral spirits in a white plastic bowl I know what to expect to
see in the bottom.
I paid $319.00 (Osh Special) in 1995, for more info:
Capehart Industries
Oil Filter Div.
PO Box 25
Mena, AR 71953
(501) 394-4288
Steve Colwell RV6 flyer-Lancair 360 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Stick Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: rust47rg(at)one.net
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
>
>I offer a different slant on the "short stick" controversy: Sensitivity
>comes in two flavors. 1) Gs per linear arc length of stick displacement and
>2) Gs per ounce of stick displacement force. If you grasp the stick 16
>inches from the pivot you have to apply, hypothetically, 10 ounces of force
>through a displacement of say, 1 inch to induce a 1-G pullup.
>Now if you grab the stick 8 inches from the pivot you have to apply a force
>of 20 ounces through a displacement of 1/2 inch to obtain the same 1-G
>pullup.
>I find that my body's servo feedback mechanism is force driven rather than
>displacement driven. In my very brief 5 hours stick time in RVs I always
>find myself grasping the stick as low to the pivot as I can. In my first
>demo ride in a 6A the instructor told me to hold the stick low to prevent
>overcontrolling. I believe the long sticks are needed by the guys who do
>aerobatics.
>Dennis 6A fuselage in jig (looking forward to cutting the sticks)
>
>----------
Dennis:
Do yourself a favor and fly the airplane for a "few" more hours before you
whack off the stick.
The stick works just fine long. You get use to the feel and won't
overcontrol it. When I'm flying my RV I want it to feel like it's an RV not
some of the other flying trucks I happen to pilot.:)
And by the way....I do plenty of aerobatics in my 4 and you don't have to
have a long stick so you can pull hard! Smooth and gentle works just fine
and the feel of the airplane with the stock stick is great IMHO.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. J. Price" <mal(at)dial.pipex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: For English RV-listers only |
--> RV-List message posted by: "M. J. Price"
Gill,
It's our strut meeting on Weds. I'll be in touch soon after.
regards
Mal Price
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head chopper |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>I did similar with my glare shield but I have to somewhat disagree with your
>assessment of the glare shield's utility. Your absolutely right that it
>doesn't help with the avionics displays. However, I (mistakenly so?) painted
>my instrument panel white. While I think it looks pretty neat it does cause
>considerable gare against the canopy. If it were not for the glare shield it
>would be a big distraction. Next time the panel will be a dark color.
>
>Rick McBride
Rick & fellow listers,
Small world. I, too, painted my panel white. I like the looks of the
black gauges on a white background but, there is reflection in the canopy.
My black painted glare shield does not reflect. Frankly, from a safety
standpoint, the instrument panel should probably be a dark color.
Back to the subject. I'll bet that if you fitted a temporary, black glare
shield to your airplane that stuck out, say, 5 inches that it would not keep
all that much glare off the canopy. I'll give it a try when I get some
time. I think that a short overhang and dark panel is probably the way to go.
Regards,
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Benedict
>>
>This is an interesting topic. I thought the bushings were supposed to
>be captured by the bolt and connecting brackets at each end and the
>bellcrank tube was supposed to pivot around the bushing. Which part is
>supposed to be free and which is supposed to turn? Does it matter?
Readers and builders:
This discussion applies to the bellcrank in the RV-8 wings, and also
applies to the control stick/control housing assembly in the RV-4/6/6A/8.
In reading some of the comments of others, I can see that Van's design
deviates slightly from the perceived. Van always (well, most of the time)
designs the bolt to rigidly hold the bushing immobile. This requires that
the bushing be slightly longer than the tube the bushing is located in.
Thus, the bellcrank rotates on the bushing. Weather it is correct or not
can be debated, but this seems to be the convention we use. So, I guess no
one really needs a 0.249 reamer for the center, although it would be
cleaner than running a drill bit through, but you could use a reamer to
clean up the tube in the bellcrank. This will be 0.375+ inches. Lets start
a discussion on exactly what size it should be with comments from the
appropriate people.
Another convention that Van uses is: If a part is to rotate or could
possibly rotate on a bolt, it will always have a castlenut and cotter key.
An example would be the attachment of the rudder cable to the rudder
bar/pedal and the second example is the wing rear spar attachment to the
fuselage. One does not think of this as a rotating joint, but the
possibility exists so it has a cotter key.
A part that has a bearing which will be providing the pivoting motion as in
the rod-ends of the empennage surfaces, will use a regular bolt and Nylok
nut to secure the bearing ball to the "hinge bracket". In this case the
bolt should tighten the bracket down to the ball so the ball is required to
rotate in it's housing, not on the bolt.
So, for all of those who have cut their bushings just slightly shorter than
the bellcrank tube, the next time you order some parts, also order: 2ea
BUSHING 065X3/8X2.781 . These parts will be just slightly longer than the
bellcrank tube. Of course, you can always file the bellcrank tube just
slightly shorter than the bushing and add a washer on the bottom to act as a
rub surface to keep the bracket from being worn by the rotating motion of
the bellcrank. Happy Building! Bill
PS: As much as we tried, we were late getting the first RV-8 fuselages
shipped. The first ones were scheduled for the last week of May but will
actually ship next Tuesday (10th of June). At S'nF we were telling people
the 8 fuse's would ship in April, but Barbara did not schedule any until
the end of May, so we are only 2 weeks late from the actual scheduled ship
date. There are shortages (plans, manuals, some hardware and rudder
pedals) but these will arrive shortly after the kit arrives. The plans for
the fuselage fixture (jig) are included so after inventoring the parts the
fixture can be built and you will be ready when the manual & plans arrive.
This has got to be one of the nicest sets of parts we have ever shipped.
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Boris
It varies so much and is dependant on airspeed, height, and wind. But,
there's no excuse for ruining a good airplane and killing your friends
by spinning in (and increasing my insurance costs). After more spins in
gliders and power planes than I can remember (some for training, most
for fun) I have learned one thing -- If a pilot has never done a few
spins were they performed the recovery, and they unintentially spin,
the chances of recovery are stacked against them. It is just one of
those relaxed things; wing drops, lots of ground, surprise (while the
body pulls back the stick due to too much ground, and applies opposite
aileron to pick up the wing, a natural reaction) Think. Get training.
Austin Tinckler wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin Tinckler"
>
> We had a fatal stall spin occur here yesterday. A pilot purported to be a
> commercial with lots of experience had, according to a witness, an engine
> fail (loud crack) at 400 ft. The pilot of the little Cessna tried to turn
> back and stall spiralled in.
> Now I know what we were all told as students what to do in this
> case, my question is, has anyone practiced the turn back maneuver to see
> just how much altitude is required in an RV ? Van's newsletter suggested
> this a while ago as a way to see for yourself just what may be possible and
> how much height is lost doing this.
> Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-List Stick Length- another opinion offered |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< I find that my body's servo feedback mechanism is force driven rather than
displacement driven. In my very brief 5 hours stick time in RVs I always
find myself grasping the stick as low to the pivot as I can. In my first
demo ride in a 6A the instructor told me to hold the stick low to prevent
overcontrolling. I believe the long sticks are needed by the guys who do
aerobatics.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig (looking forward to cutting the sticks) >>
Fellas:
Dennis- your flying thru force instead of displacement is the correct style.
I taught this to many students. BUT!
Don't cut those sticks! If you think you need more force for feedback ( as in
during an x/cy), grip the stick lower. This leaves you the option of using
the longer stick if you need it ( like if you find me behind you). I used the
above argument for a shorter stick on my first -4, and I realized the depth
of my mistake after I flew a similiar a/c with a long stick. The difference
is similiar to power/manual steering in your car. No problem of
overcontrolling the car, is there?
Fly the thing first, and if you feel the need, cut the sticks later.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
Tom and others,
I think a little closer look at and study of the plans, manual, and
newsletters is in order. There are no bushings in the control rod ends; these
are all bearings. The washers and/or spacers are tightened down against the
inner bearing race by an undrilled bolt going through the parts with a self
locking style nut. The bolt is not intended to turn. The larger thin washers
are "capture washers" in case of bearing failure, where they are used. There
are smaller diameter washers used on either side of the bearing races in
different locations on the '6 and '4 that allow the control rods to rotate
more freely within their attachments.
There are no locations in the control system or control surfaces where
bushings or bearings are to wear against aluminum, that I have found. The
4130 steel control sticks rotate on bushings, but the bushings are tightened
in the yoke by a bolt/nut so that neither should rotate. Several places where
aluminum and/or steel parts do rotate on bolts, such as the rudder cable
attachments, brake pedal/master cylinder linkages, canopy latch mechanisms,
etc., are specified in the plans to have drilled bolts, castellated nuts, and
cotter pins to safety them.
Hope this helps clear up some obvious misunderstandings, IMHO.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!RV4Brown(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 06, 1997 7:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron bellcrank bushings
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
<< But in the case you describe below what holds the nut onto the pivot
bolt? The turning resistance of just the nylon insert? Maybe that bolt
should be drilled then? >>
I believe the plans do call for drilled bolt heads and safety wires on
bearing bolts i.e. at the bellcranks, control sticks, contol columns and
control rods. The RV4 plans do call out for thin steel washers ( my
appologies I don't have the plans or part number available to me at this time
- will forward) between the ends of the bushings or bearings and any
containment pieces. The washer provides a larger surface area to minimize the
wear. At the bellcrank in the wings and tail (without the washers) you would
have the thin steel inner bearing race rubbing against aluminum. At the
control columns, the thin bronze would be rubbing against steel plate.
I don't have a alam dunk method for sliding the washers in place. It
takes a little patience. I usually use a thin piece of aluminum with a
semi-circle cut out at the end to move the washers into position. Putting the
washers in place when the washers final position is vertical and the space
isn't quite wide enough is a challenge.
Van's keeps it simple and econmical. Another alternative to consider,
provided you have access to a lathe and mill, is to manufacture bronze
inserts that press fit into the outer control column plates. The hole in the
control column plates would be enlarged by one quarter of an inch (this
provides for the wall thickness on the insert). The side view of the insert
would be T shaped such that the larger inner boss would serve as the bearing
surface area between the bronze sleeve and the outer control colmn plates and
keep the insert frm being pressed to the outside under compression forces.
The width of the control stick or other bearings being contained would have
to be reduced by the thickness of the inner bosses or the mechanism length
expanded. The basic advantage is that the inserts can be replaced when worn
and you don't have the containment bolt turning on steel in the outer steel
or aluminum plates. This would also elliminate the need for the steel
washers.
I would also add that if you get to fly often enough to wear out the
system as originally designed by Van's, I will be envious to say the least.
Tom Brown - RV4
fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: dual boost pumps? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough)
So, you have a (low pressure) Facet pump feeding your Hi-pressure (Dukes
brand? These don't like to be run dry.) boost pump, which feeds the mech
pump? Thatsa lotta pumps, man! How are the boost pumps wired (separate
switches, or both at once)?
Mark,
Actually, the hp pump is a Weldon...the literature says it is supposed to be self
priming but I
have no info to say just how far it can lift. I had problems getting fuel to the
hp pump when I
first tried to fire up the engine so I decided to put the Facet in as a safeguard.
They are both wired to the same breaker switch with a light to tell me their on.
Not sure why I put
the light there...guess I didn't realise just how noisy these buggres are!!
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kate and/or Jack <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kate and/or Jack
Van's Michigan Wing will meet Sunday, June 15, 12 noon, at Dalton Airport
EAA hangar. Yes, we know it is Fathers' Day but this is what Dad wanted
to do! Bring a dish to pass and hope for good weather!
For more info, email us at jgh(at)iavbbs.com or check out our web site
<http://members.tripod.com/~6Alady/rvmi.html> (currently having a little
garbage problem but the info is ok.)
For a map to Dalton, see <http://iavbbs.com/jgh/gfpa.htm>.
Hope to see some of you there!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LyCon Aircraft Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
Noticed a thread on the list the other day inquiring about the phone # to
LyCon.
They may be the best engine service around for homebuilders who want more
horsepower but getting timely service out of them would try the patience of
Job.
My recommendation would be to cast about for someone else to do the work like
Mena Engines in Mena, Ark. or Monty Barrett in Tulsa.
B. Clary
RV6A (was flying until I sent the cylinders to LyCon some 5-6 weeks ago and
they still haven't been returned)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Stick Length- another opinion offered |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough)
This leaves you the option of using
the longer stick if you need it ( like if you find me behind you).
Denny, I'm curious to see if you're going to accept Mark's challenge!!!!
Ken
(who chopped 2 inches off his stick to prevent smashing his thumb into the panel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Warfield <KeithW(at)ncgwpc.syntellect.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Keith Warfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For English RV-listers only |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander
>--> RV-List message posted by: "M. J. Price"
>
>Gill,
>It's our strut meeting on Weds. I'll be in touch soon after.
>regards
>Mal Price
>
>
Mal,
.... thanks for the reply. I leave on Tues. and won't be in
Manchester until mid Wed. evening. It's a pity I'm missing your meeting by
one day only.
I have a rental car, and my 25 year old son is acting driver, since
I just found I still have to wear a splint on my right arm for another 4
weeks ...:^( ... but the broken elbow is healing properly ... My son is
also a master rivet bucker ...:^)
The only big deal so far is THE 50th wedding anniv. party on the
first Saturday (14th?)
... hear from you later .... Gil A.
Should have some photos from the Bakersfield RV fly-in to-morrow
151-427-2357 in Liverpool
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuses, Circuit Breakers and Spins |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AIR(at)aol.com
I have been watching the strings on these subjects with interest and offer my
observations and experience FWIW.
On fuses VS. circuit breakers. At FL180 in a Beech Baron both alternator
circuit
breakers popped when I turned on Prop De-ice. Shutting off the prop heat and
resetting the circuit breakers allowed the flight to continue with some
difficulty with prop ice management. The landing gear circuit breaker popped
on my Bonanza on take -off. After resetting the breaker the gear operated
normally. That was 200 hours ago. There have been other similar experiences
which cause me to prefer circuit breakers over fuses.
On RV-6 VS. RV-4/8 spins; the J-3 Cub was a lot of fun to spin as was the
T-34. Seems like tandem seating is a nice ride in a spin. My first side by
side airplane spin was in a Cessna 140. This was a different ride.
Exciting would be an understatement. Every side by side seating airplane
spin was about the same and I reasoned that all airplanes spin the about
same but you are riding outside the center of rotation and being swung around
like some of those rides at the amusement park.
Just a thought.
Bob Lovering
RV-6 will fly this summer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Craig Nelson
Hi everyone,
I went to Van's today to get my wing kit. Loaded it up drove out of
the warehouse and desided to go
over to the airstrip were Van lives. Pulled up to shop and there were
three guys in there working on
an RV. One guy had just finished the skin on top and the wing had
been turned over. All the ribs
and every thing was exposed, so after getting my wing kit, this was
perfect to see the inside of the
wing and ask questions. I told them I was building an RV6 so they
invited me in. Any way it turns
out that they were building the RV-9 trainer prototype. It will have a
115hp engine is about all I
could get out of them. So I thought the List might want to know what
I saw. I thought it was quite a scoop.
cgn(at)pond.net
Craig G. Nelson
Eugene, OR
building RV-6 empenage, nearly completed
wing kit in the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Stick Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: rvbildr(at)juno.com
It's not the length of your stick, but how skillful you are with it!!!
That's what she said!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head chopper |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bygrens(at)aol.com
<< However, I (mistakenly so?) painted
my instrument panel white. >>
If you would like to get a feel for the glare you would likely face, put a
piece of white paper on the dash of your car right above your speedometer.
You'll no doubt experience a BIG decrease in contrast because of the
reflection. I suspect the white instrument panel would give a similar
effect.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: two RV6A's, one T hanger - one solution |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Fritz
We've got two RV-4's sharing one T hanger here at San Carlos. A hanger =
is
$600/month and there's a 20 year waiting list!!!!
Not a joke......at least not a funny one. =
The guys did it by building a trolley and rail system for each RV. The
rails inside the hanger are fixed onto the hanger floor. They share a
non-fixed rail for moving in and out of the hanger. If anyone is
interested in the details I'll explain it in detail.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "mcomeaux"
I have a friend looking for a propeller.
It's a IA90 C-F 73" Dia. 43 Pitch or a C-M
Can anybody help out or point in a direction?
Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
Does anyone know if there is going to be a RV fly-in at Boone, Iowa this
year. If so, when?
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel H. Morris III"
----------
> Now I know what we were all told as students what to do in this
> case, my question is, has anyone practiced the turn back maneuver to see
> just how much altitude is required in an RV ? Van's newsletter suggested
> this a while ago as a way to see for yourself just what may be possible
and
> how much height is lost doing this.
> Austin.
As a glider flight instructor who has done many (1000+)rope break
simulations at 200 ft. with a return to the runway I'd lke to add this. If
you haven't actually practiced the return to runway maneuver, you will
probable botch it the first time. We do the rope breaks simulations at 200
ft in gliders, and many times the problem is not reaching the runway, but
getting down in time to make the runway (2000 ft). Now I don't think 200
ft is ok for power, but I have this suggestion based on what we do in
gliders.
A 45 +- degree banked turn gives the best turn with the minimum altitude
lost. At altitude, in a climb configuratiion, chop power, establish best
glide speed (1.3 Vso+ increased stall speed for turn) while initiating a
45 degree banked turn for 180 degrees and determine the altitude loss.
Practice this at altitude until you are good at getting the glide attitude,
airspeed, and turn going. Add a fudge factor, and try it. Remember to
account for obstical heights in you altitude for the attempt. Also don't
forget to check traffic behind you on takeoff.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More on Tim's Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
Oh, I forgot...
I'm planning to go with a Grand Rapids EIS (Engine
Information System) with all 4 temp probes montitoring CHTs. The EIS
will display engine RPM, manifold pressure, oil temp/pressure, and
bus voltage. I'll use a couple of fairly cheap dual EGT gauges
(guages, gages, whatever).
Bus current measurement is still TBD. Bob Nuckolls' book offers some
interesting ideas on alternator hookup, which drives the "separate
ammeter shunt" decision for my design.
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel H. Morris III"
----------
Bob,
Keep in mind that the glare shield also prevents the instrument and radio
lights from reflecting on the windscreen and canopy at night. So if you do
much night flying you might want to reconsider.
Dan Morris
RV6
> On my next six, I intend to cut the glare shield back to a minimum. Just
> enough to put a "bumper" on is what I have in mind. I'll also probably
put
> in radios with LCD displays. The LEDs of my ARNAV loran and TKM comm
tend
> to wash out in the light. The E.I. volt/amp gauge (LCD) is easy to read.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | KX-155, Marker Beacon, and 2nd comm w/o audio panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
I plan to buy a KX-155 as my primary nav/com for my RV-6.
I think I can get away without buying an audio panel. According to
Chief Avionics, the KX-155 has two spare audio inputs, labeled "Aux"
and "ADF." I plan to run my RST marker beacon to "Aux" and the audio
output of my Icom handheld to the "ADF" input. I plan to mount the
handheld semi-permanently on the brace bar between the panel and the
fuel valve. The Icom will be used for receive-only functions such as
picking up ATIS and monitoring other frequencies.
Any thoughts on how well the RST marker beacon and/or handheld audio
will work thru the Aux and ADF inputs to the KX-155? Any ideas how I
could eventually fit an ADF into this scheme, where the KX-155 has
only the two audio inputs?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
Finishing fiberglass, panel planning
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel Equipment List |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
Listers,
Here's the panel layout I'm planning to go with. I'd like comments
from listers. My intention is to have an IFR capable plane.
RADIOS (Quotes from Chief Aircraft)
KT-76A Transponder $1,140
KX-155 Nav/Comm w/ GS and w/ KI-209 $3,350 (Van's price $3235)
ACK 450 ELT $190 (Pacific Coast price $179)
Encoder (state make and model) $150
Garmin GPS 195 $1095
Garmin External Antenna $369
MCX to BNC adapter $35
INSTRUMENTS (Quotes from Chief Aircraft)
VSI - United, unlighted, 3000 ft/min $195 (Van's 168.65)
Sigma Tek Attitude Gyro, unlit - 5000B-43 (8 degree tilt, vacuum
flag) $665
Sigma Tek Directional Gyro - 4000B-30, orange w/ NSEW letters $459
G Meter (mechanical, recording, -5 to +10, $209 (Van's price $200)
mini Suction gauge $60
Dry Vacuume Pump (sigma tek) $355
Magnetic Compass (Airpath, Panel mount, lighted, C2300-L4) $105
Pacific Coast Avionics:
Altimeter - Aerosonic, unlighted, 35,000', inch scale $325
Van's:
United Knots/MPH/TAS unlighted A/S indicator $219.23
Navaid Devices Autopilot w/ Smart Coupler $1450
RST Marker Beacon Receiver $87.50
I solicit your ideas.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | John Borchin's RV-3 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RodWoodard
Hello folks:
Does anyone know anything about a Mr. John Borchin or his RV-3. He's
located in Warren, Oregon. The registration number on his -3 is N81902.
>From the fuzzy pictures I have it looks like it's silver with a dark blue
stripe that starts big at the cowling and tapers to the tail. The spinner
is red. John didn't build the plane and I understand that the gentleman who
built it passed away a few years ago.
The plane is for sale and I'm thinking about buying it... that's why I'm
asking. It'd probably be best if the responses were sent direct rather than
to the whole list.
My e-mail address is RodWoodard(at)mcione.com Remember... simply hitting
your "reply" button will probably send your response to the whole list.
Thanks in advance.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033 [and maybe an RV-3 for good measure]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hitchings" <briandh(at)lantic.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Hitchings"
----------
> From: Michael C. Lott <lottmc(at)matronics.com@datastar.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Electric gyros
> Date: Wednesday, June 04, 1997 01:54
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
>
> Did anyone ever get the scoop on those electric military surplus 28v
> gyros? Who has them, etc?
Hi Michael,
I'm still checking out all the info in regard to the electric AH's. The
supplier has promised to give me a photo to post to this list; as soon as I
get it, I'll do the necessary. I was due to see a military avionics expert
last weekend, but fate determined differently; maybe this weekend. I want
to get the info from the horse's mouth, not from some supplier.
I'm just as keen on these instruments as anybody else : I'll check it out
and report back.
Regards
Brian Hitchings
South Africa
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | fuses vs. breakers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/At FL180 in a Beech Baron both alternator circuit breakers =
/popped when I turned on Prop De-ice. Shutting off the prop =
/heat and resetting the circuit breakers allowed the flight =
/to continue with some difficulty with prop ice management. =
/The landing gear circuit breaker popped on my Bonanza on take =
/-off. After resetting the breaker the gear operated normally. =
/That was 200 hours ago. There have been other similar experiences =
/which cause me to prefer circuit breakers over fuses.
In a certified airplane with systems DESIGNED to nuisance
trip, you've got no choice. Beech isn't about to fix the problem.
But repeat after me, "my airplane is going to be totally free =
of nuisance trips or fuse pops." It's these kinds of experiences
that make us wary of having circuit protection out of reach.
Stories abound about saved the day with a reset of a breaker =
or two . . . and for our aging fleet of heavy iron, the story =
isn't likely to change. (Except when I get my total electrical =
system resurection STC done and that will affect only a very =
few airplanes.)
Amateur built airplanes can and should be completely free
of such concerns. I find it interesting that the "experts"
in light-plane systems no longer reside with B,P,C, M or the
FAA. You guys are now keepers of the flame.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Tom Glover" <tglovebox(at)bc.sympatico.ca> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "W. Tom Glover"
Daniel H. Morris III wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel H. Morris III"
>
> ----------
> > Now I know what we were all told as students what to do in this case,
etc.
> Dan Morris
> RV6
Just yesterday at Boundary Bay Airport near Vancouver BC we lost an
experienced professional pilot flying his single-seat Acro when the
engine failed just after t/o. While the details haven't been released
yet, I suspect he was trying to get back to the runway when he died. 47
years old, married, two kids and lotsa friends. Another tragedy that
might not have happened. Very sad. Why do some always want to try to
get it back? Isn't there a reason that instructors tell us to maintain
control and flying speed and land more or less straight ahead? If the
damn thing betrays me, I'm not going to try and save it, I'm going to use
it up trying to save myself!
Tom Glover RV-6 empennage in the box (drat!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)netins.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Rozendaal
I am, unfortunately, aware of what goes through your mind when the fire goes
out off the end of the runway. Even after 4000 hrs and being told hundreds
of times being told not to turn back, the first thing that went through my
mind was to turn back! Then I spent a few milliseconds telling myself how
stupid that reaction was, turned into the wind and parked in a soybean
field. I totaled my bird(picture at my homepage) and shattered my kneecap
but I survived. I knew my plane would not survive a 90 mph landing in the
dirt so it meant sacrificing the airplane. The point is that the urge to
turn back is really strong and everyone needs to train for that situation.
It is like drugs "Just don't turn back!" Every one needs to think about how
to crash your airplane. It might save your neck. It saved mine.
PS I finally bought a -4 pick it up monday, Yippee!
My wife said I can't have anymore airplanes with little wings.....
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stick Length- another opinion offered |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< This leaves you the option of using
the longer stick if you need it ( like if you find me behind you).
Denny, I'm curious to see if you're going to accept Mark's challenge!!!!
Ken
(who chopped 2 inches off his stick to prevent smashing his thumb into the
panel)
>>
Uh-oh........
check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>Bob,
>Keep in mind that the glare shield also prevents the instrument and radio
>lights from reflecting on the windscreen and canopy at night. So if you do
>much night flying you might want to reconsider.
>Dan Morris
Dan,
Although I'm not a proponent of night flying, I have probably 8-10 hours
of night flying out of 350 hrs. I haven't found the reflection to be much
of a distraction. I do have all lights on a rheostat.
Generally, my night flying occurs because of a late take off. I've only
flown at night intentionally to remain current on my 3 landings and for one
trip. It's smooth and beautiful flying at night but really presents risks
that I'd just as soon not take.
I do have to say that out of the six airplanes that I've owned, I have the
most confidence in the airworthiness of my RV-6. Of course, I've probably
had the cowl off and inspected this airlane more than all the others
combined. If I had to pick an airplane to fly at night, it would certainly
be my RV.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: priming parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AIR(at)aol.com
Steve Frey taught me to touch up the bucktails and heads
with Variprime and Q tips. It works.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
I will go up and try it this week, but a friend tried the 'return to runway
manuever' in an RV-6 with two people in it (at a safe altitude) and
discovered it took more than 400 feet of altitude to complete a 180 degree
gliding turn! Now this was a 'worst case', ie a heavy O-360 airplane with a
constant speed prop. So my rule of thumb is don't even consider it unless
you have at least 500 feet above runway. On my first test flight I used a
runway long enough to give me 500 feet before the end and which had
intersecting runways aligned with turns to cross wind. Straight ahead for
me. It is not fun dealing with insurance companies but better than dealing
with undertakers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jaynes <dljaynes(at)ipa.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dennis Jaynes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
Hi,
Does anybody know if "in-wing tip" marker beacon antennas are made. If
not, are there any which can be easily adapted?
Thanks,
Grant in New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KX-155, Marker Beacon, and 2nd comm w/o audio panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian & Sharon Eckstein <eckstein@net-link.net>
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
>
> I plan to buy a KX-155 as my primary nav/com for my RV-6.
> I think I can get away without buying an audio panel. According to
> Chief Avionics, the KX-155 has two spare audio inputs, labeled "Aux"
> and "ADF." I plan to run my RST marker beacon to "Aux" and the audio
> output of my Icom handheld to the "ADF" input. I plan to mount the
> handheld semi-permanently on the brace bar between the panel and the
> fuel valve. The Icom will be used for receive-only functions such as
> picking up ATIS and monitoring other frequencies.
>
> Any thoughts on how well the RST marker beacon and/or handheld audio
> will work thru the Aux and ADF inputs to the KX-155? Any ideas how I
> could eventually fit an ADF into this scheme, where the KX-155 has
> only the two audio inputs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
> Finishing fiberglass, panel planning
> ---------------------
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6AQ #60023
> San Antonio TX
> timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
> -----------------------
I built a RST Audio Panel with the Marker Beacon option. At under $300,
it's got an intercom, Marker Beacon, Audio Panel and weighs 1 lb. It
looks as nice as any of the others and costs 1/4th. There is an
auxilliary input which mutes automatically on any radio activity. That
will be nice for a CD. There is a switch to bypass the audio panel in
case of malfunction. It took about 20 hours to build. I would think you
would be hard pressed to keep the cost of marker and intercom as low.
You could wire your hand held into it too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin Tinckler"
----------
> From: Daniel H. Morris III <icdc.com!Morristec(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stall spin
> Date: Saturday, June 07, 1997 12:35 AM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel H. Morris III"
>
> ----------
> > Now I know what we were all told as students what to do in this
> > case, my question is, has anyone practiced the turn back maneuver to
see
> > just how much altitude is required in an RV ? Van's newsletter
suggested
> > this a while ago as a way to see for yourself just what may be possible
> and
> > how much height is lost doing this.
> > Austin.
>
> As a glider flight instructor who has done many (1000+)rope break
> simulations at 200 ft. with a return to the runway I'd lke to add this.
If
> you haven't actually practiced the return to runway maneuver, you will
> probable botch it the first time. We do the rope breaks simulations at
200
> ft in gliders, and many times the problem is not reaching the runway, but
> getting down in time to make the runway (2000 ft). Now I don't think 200
> ft is ok for power, but I have this suggestion based on what we do in
> gliders.
>
> A 45 +- degree banked turn gives the best turn with the minimum altitude
> lost. At altitude, in a climb configuratiion, chop power, establish best
> glide speed (1.3 Vso+ increased stall speed for turn) while initiating a
> 45 degree banked turn for 180 degrees and determine the altitude loss.
> Practice this at altitude until you are good at getting the glide
attitude,
> airspeed, and turn going. Add a fudge factor, and try it. Remember to
> account for obstical heights in you altitude for the attempt. Also don't
> forget to check traffic behind you on takeoff.
>
>
> Dan Morris
> RV6
Dan,
Thank you for an intelligent and informative response. This is
exactly what I was looking for. I shall file this and keep it for future
reading. I always hoped that if an engine failure happened to me that I
would do as I was trained to do, but I know that the pull of the runway
just behind would be too powerful for a lot of us to resist.
On a slightly different note, since this next story was not a failure
on take off, but a mile away, a DC-3 loaded with barrels of avgas heading
up North had an engine seize due to loss of oil. He turned back and made it
to 1/4 mile of runway then hit hard and burned partially. There was a sandy
beach in front of him when he had the failure and could have maybe put down
there.Perhaps the thought of all that avgas behind and rushing to meet you
made him try to get home. Very tough call. He did almost make it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bicyclops(at)ecom.net (Ed Holyoke) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bicyclops(at)ecom.net (Ed Holyoke)
>--> RV-List message posted by: "W. Tom Glover" =
>
>Daniel H. Morris III wrote:
>>=20
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel H. Morris III" =
>>=20
>> ----------
>> > Now I know what we were all told as students what to do in =
this case, etc.
>=20
>> Dan Morris
>> RV6
>
> Why do some always want to try to=20
>get it back? Isn't there a reason that instructors tell us to maintain=20
>control and flying speed and land more or less straight ahead? If the=20
>damn thing betrays me, I'm not going to try and save it, I'm going to =
use=20
>it up trying to save myself!
>
>Tom Glover RV-6 empennage in the box (drat!)
>
Another thing to think about is that a 180 turn heads you back
downwind but doesn't line you up with the runway. By the time you get
lined back up, it's gonna be the equivalent of about a 270 with more
altitude lost. You may even be about out of runway by the time you get
it all straightened out and with extra groundspeed because you're
trying to land downwind.=20
I haven't tried this close to the ground, but have you ever watched
cropdusters making turnarounds? They start a climbing turn one way and
then turn the other way, while descending, to line back up. If you
think you have enough altitude to make it back to the runway, that
might be the way to do it so that you can roll out in line with the
runway. (Of course, with no power, you can't do a climbing turn.)
Unless you've got plenty of altitude, like the man said, you're better
off landing straight ahead (or close to straight ahead).
As with any maneuver, don't try it near the ground without doing
multiple times at altitude!
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 Tailfeathers
Bicyclops(at)ecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
Reminds me of a BFR I had a few years ago. The instructor pulled power and
said "pick out a landing site". I picked out a nice road with no traffic
and no power lines and lined up to land on it. My instructor asked me why
I didn't pick the 80 acres of flat plowed field. I said I liked the nice
smooth road better. She said "That's the trouble with you guys that own
your own plane! A renter would have picked the field. You guys worry too
much about your planes!"
I have thought about that often since the BFR. A big factor when I scan
for emergency landing places is the plane, and that priority is wrong. I'm
glad you did the right thing, Doug.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: Doug Rozendaal <netins.net!dougr(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stall spin
> Date: Saturday, June 07, 1997 5:44 AM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Rozendaal
>
> I am, unfortunately, aware of what goes through your mind when the fire
goes
> out off the end of the runway. Even after 4000 hrs and being told
hundreds
> of times being told not to turn back, the first thing that went through
my
> mind was to turn back! Then I spent a few milliseconds telling myself how
> stupid that reaction was, turned into the wind and parked in a soybean
> field. I totaled my bird(picture at my homepage) and shattered my
kneecap
> but I survived. I knew my plane would not survive a 90 mph landing in
the
> dirt so it meant sacrificing the airplane. The point is that the urge to
> turn back is really strong and everyone needs to train for that
situation.
> It is like drugs "Just don't turn back!" Every one needs to think about
how
> to crash your airplane. It might save your neck. It saved mine.
>
> PS I finally bought a -4 pick it up monday, Yippee!
> My wife said I can't have anymore airplanes with little wings.....
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> dougr(at)netins.net
> www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head chopper |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
I believe that the glareshield is needed for reducing glare both from and onto
the panel, but the overhang needs to have a bumper pad to prevent, as much as
possible, any "chopper" tendencies. I had a rather shallow glareshield on my
first RV-6A tip-up, but this one will be deeper with a pad. I'd like to
reduce the times when extremely bright sunlight made some panel items
unreadable without leaning to the side to eliminate the reflection from the
instrument/radio faces.
I also painted my panel an off-white, like some Mooneys I've seen. But, I
added a lot of flattening agent so that there was minimal reflection. I flew
several hours at night using a dimmable panel flood light and never noted any
significant problem with glare anywhere. I don't believe that it matters so
much what color is used, but how much sheen is on the finish.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/N24LW (res)/finish kit, but re-doing rear top skin!
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!RICKRV6(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 06, 1997 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head chopper
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
Bob,
I did similar with my glare shield but I have to somewhat disagree with your
assessment of the glare shield's utility. Your absolutely right that it
doesn't help with the avionics displays. However, I (mistakenly so?) painted
my instrument panel white. While I think it looks pretty neat it does cause
considerable gare against the canopy. If it were not for the glare shield it
would be a big distraction. Next time the panel will be a dark color.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Marker beacon antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/Does anybody know if "in-wing tip" marker beacon antennas are =
/made. If not, are there any which can be easily adapted?
An adaptation of Bob Archer's VOR wing tip antennas would
work for marker beacon too. You might give Bob a call and
see if he's worked out the details. Call Bob Archer at 310-316-8796
and tell him I sent you.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KX-155, Marker Beacon, and 2nd comm w/o audio panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@norway-c.it.earthlink.net>
On 7 Jun 97 at 11:05, Brian & Sharon Eckstein wrote:
> I built a RST Audio Panel with the Marker Beacon option. At under $300,
> it's got an intercom, Marker Beacon, Audio Panel and weighs 1 lb. It
> looks as nice as any of the others and costs 1/4th. There is an
> auxilliary input which mutes automatically on any radio activity. That
> will be nice for a CD. There is a switch to bypass the audio panel in
> case of malfunction. It took about 20 hours to build. I would think you
> would be hard pressed to keep the cost of marker and intercom as low.
> You could wire your hand held into it too.
>
Have you flown the unit yet? If so, please let me know what you think
of the unit. I sure like RST's price, but I don't know about the
performance of the audio panel. I built an RST portable intercom
several years ago. It worked, but the squelch was extremely
difficult to set. It would either break squelch all the time (hot
mike) or else not break squelch when we talked. I was much happier
with a Flightcom that I installed later.
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/I have been trying to follow this thread over the last =
/weeks, and the more I follow, the more confused I get. =
/Initially it appeared to me that the ExpBus was a great thing, =
/even if a little expensive. It appears now, after following your =
/answers that every feature on it has drawbacks that would make =
/it even dangerous to use.
It DOES have some safety issues but by-in-large, I'll suggest
that it's worst sins are that it's less than truthful in
its promotion. You're correct, $250 is a pretty good chunk
of change.
/Because you have the experience and knowledge that you have, =
/why don't you design something similar using your approach to =
/parts and construction, that can be built by us. It could =
/even be packaged with instruction and parts. =
I'm not sure anything needs to be fabricated by me or
anyone else to provide a more acceptable alternative to
wiring an airplane. If one purchases a battery master relay
(mounted where it belongs . . . right next to the battery)
a couple of Bussmann 15600 series fuse blocks (mounted under
the panel where ever you would have mounted the remote EXP-Bus
board) and the toggle switches (mounted where the EXP-Bus =
switches would have been mounted) that you'll have exemplary
protection, convenience and very nearly an exact duplicate
of the EXP-Bus remote mounted wiring task. Assuming:
Fuse Block Breakers Fab/Install
Estimate
Battery Contactor: $20 $20 1 hr
Breakers (30) 600 16 hrs
Fab, Assemble & Wir=
e
Fuse Blocks (2): 60 1 hr
Fuses (30): 7
Switches (10): 57 57 3 hrs =
=
Terminals (56): 6 6 2 hrs
Assted Wire between
protection and switch 5 5 =
_____ ____
$155 $688
These times are estimates of how long it would take me
to fabricate switch and breaker panels and do drawings for
purchase of engraved overlays. The fuseblock installation =
saves you $100 over EXP-Bus and $530 over breakers. Except
for the fabrication of bus bars and breaker panels, either
installation presents no bigger a wiring task than the remote =
mounted EXP-Bus installation and the values I've give above
allow for up to 30 protected circuits. Further ALL parts
are off-the-shelf distributor items available from dozens =
of sources. This is another plus for rolling-
your-own that I'd not thought of before. Except for the
Bussmann fuseblocks, there are NO proprietary fabricated
parts and lots of alternatives for sources. Bussmann stands
a VERY good chance of being around for awhile. So . . .
future repairability and cost of ownership of the parts-built
system are quite attractive.
/I'm not very good at electronics even though I have a degree =
/in Office Machine Repair and worked at the trade for about 7 =
/years. Replacing parts was one thing, but designing circuits =
/was something else, and now, I'm going to be "designing the =
/circuits in the GS. The simplicity of just connecting to the =
/ExpBus was what cought my eye. =
It was your relative inexperience in designing and fabrication
that hooked you. If someone hands you a relatively complex
looking piece of stuff and says, "lookee here at all the time
and effort I can save you by doing this in advance and handing
it to you as a completed assembly." What the offeror doesn't
tell you is that all the custom assembly work may not be necessary
or is easily replaced by machine fabricated parts using other
sources and technologies.
/Anyway, I'll keep following the thread, maybe things will eventually =
/fall into place when I start wiring......I'm sure thankful there =
/are people on the net like you and the others. Keep up the good work.
Thank you. Again, I'll point out to folk following this thread and
others. My mission is to discover and then share the most cost
effective ways to accomplish a task with NO compromises in performance=
or safety. Airplanes are an EXPENSIVE hobby. I believe that if
we all put our heads together and figure out how to trim unnecessary
time, cost and weight out of the more traditional techniques, =
you'll stand a better chance of having more time, dollars and/or
panel space to install something that enhances the utility of your
airplane.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson)
Bill wrote:
>
>can be debated, but this seems to be the convention we use. So, I
guess no
>one really needs a 0.249 reamer for the center, although it would be
>cleaner than running a drill bit through, but you could use a reamer
to
>clean up the tube in the bellcrank. This will be 0.375+ inches. Lets
start
>a discussion on exactly what size it should be with comments from the
>appropriate people.
>
Bill, thanks very much for clearing this up. I have some concern as to
what the clearance should be between the bushing and the bellcrank to
allow the bellcrank to turn without binding over the wide temperature
range the plane will operate in. In particular, is distortion of the
bellcrank at temperature extremes due to built in stresses from the
welding a possibility?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
z>
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
>> > Now I know what we were all told as students what to do in this
>> > case, my question is, has anyone practiced the turn back maneuver to
>> > see just how much altitude is required in an RV ? Van's newsletter
>> > suggested this a while ago as a way to see for yourself just what may
be possible
>> > and how much height is lost doing this.
Firstly, there has been a long-running thread in rec.aviation.piloting on
exactly this subject. The consensus is that it is probably possible IF IT
HAS BEEN PRACTISED. Minimum height is about 400ft. Once turned around, you
will of course be landing downwind, and probably some difficulty in landing
on the available runway.
Secondly, the following is quoted verbatim from the NZ CAA Occurence Briefs
(accident reports) 1997, Issue 2. Let's all learn from this unfortunate
accident. Note: I think this was a 135 degree turn, not even 180.
Frank.
ZK-RVS, Vans RV-4, 6 Mar 96 at 1500, Ardmore. 2 POB, injuries 2 serious,
damage substantial. Nature of flight, private other. Pilot CAA licence ATPL
(Aeroplane), age 49 years, flying hours 13800 total, 75 on type, 180 in
last 90 days.
On takeoff, at approximately 300 feet agl, the engine suddenly lost power.
In view of earlier carburettor problems, the pilot closed the throttle and
opened it again. The engine surged but faltered again.
The pilot closed the throttle again and looked to carry out a forced
landing. He could not land ahead because of a house and a row of trees, nor
could he land left or right bevause of hangars. In his opinion a landing
back toward runway 21 grass offered the best solution to his dilemma.
The nose was pushed forward and a steep righthand turn initiated. The
aircraft began to descend at a very high rate and the pilot, realising that
a heavy landing was imminent, levelled the wings and raised the nose.
The aircraft impacted the ground with a force of more than 10G. The
aircraft slid along the grass and suffered a further deceleration upon
reaching the asphalt taxiway. This cause the pilot to strike his head on
the canopy with enough force to punch a hole in the perspex. The rear seat
passenger struck his head on the mid-canopy support pace. The aircraft came
to rest upright, 40 metres from the initial impact point, and facing 90
degrees to the original direction of travel.
Both occupants were hospitalised.
Investigation revealed the probable cause of power loss was a metal sliver
obstructing the carburettor main jet orifice.
Neither the likely path of ingress of this foreign object, nor the time of
its entry into the carburettor bowl could be determined.
Main sources of investigation: CAA field investigation
CAA Occurence Ref 96/569
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Equipment List |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
Tim,
In the spirit of helpfulness, I offer three observations: (a) I've
flown quite a few hours in Piper Archers and Warriors equipped with
Sigma-Tek attitude gyros and find the double pointer troublesome because
the two points tend to obscure the exact point where the wings are level
and I therefore prefer the R. C. Allen, which is available with panel
tilt compensation on special order from Spruce, and provides a more
precise and easily readable display, (b) a Lycoming field rep I met
recently who used to be in the avionics business recommended the Trans
Cal SSD 120 altitude encoder over all others, and (c) I tested the King
KT76C at the recent aviation electronics show in Palm Springs and found
it much, much easier to use than the KT76A. The KT76C has a separate
push button for each digit, so when a controller tells you to squawk
4713, for example, you press button 4, button 7, button, 1, and button
3, no dials to turn. Also, you might check out the KCS55A nav/comm that
will replace the older style KCS55. It should soon be available to the
general market.
Good luck.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Equipment List |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
Oops! I said KCS55 and KCS55A when I meant KCS155 and KCS155A.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bennett(at)healey.com.au |
| Subject: | aileron bellcrank bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: bennett(at)healey.com.au
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Benedict
>
> Another convention that Van uses is: If a part is to rotate or could
> possibly rotate on a bolt, it will always have a castlenut and cotter key.
Bill, I believe this convention is not used on the -6 sliding canopy
where the UHMW rear slider block attaches to the canopy frame. I
puzzled over this and decided it must not be critical, as the canopy
is held down by the pins, rollers and latch. Any advice here?
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 4 instrument panel |
| From: | jodyedwards(at)juno.com (Jody J EDWARDS) |
--> RV-List message posted by: jodyedwards(at)juno.com (Jody J EDWARDS)
Hi, New guy question,
I am about to install my instrument panel and canopy and I am considering
enlarging the panel downward 3" to 4" ? so that I can install full
gyro's ,KLX-135, and transponder up front. Has anybody out there
encountered any clearance problems between panel and stick? Is it
necessary to shorten the stick?
Jody Edwards
fuselage
JodyEdwards(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis E. Smith Jr." <lsmith(at)coastalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Equipment List |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Louis E. Smith Jr."
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis"
<timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>Here's the panel layout I'm planning to go with. I'd like comments
>from listers. My intention is to have an IFR capable plane.
>Garmin GPS 195 $1095
>Garmin External Antenna $369
>MCX to BNC adapter $35
>
Tim,
If you go with the Garmin GPS 195, you should not need to buy an external
antenna. My 195 came with a remote antenna that looks very much like an
external antenna. This antenna is mounted on a metal bracket with suction
cups. It can be removed from the bracket with two screws and permanently
mounted on top of the glare shield like Van did on both of the RV-8s. It
is also black so it should blend in with the top of the glare shield if you
decide to paint it flat black.
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
Rocky Mount, NC
RV-8 #80126 N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
(919)937-4905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis E. Smith Jr." <lsmith(at)coastalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 instrument panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Louis E. Smith Jr."
>--> RV-List message posted by: jodyedwards(at)juno.com (Jody J EDWARDS)
>
>Hi, New guy question,
>I am about to install my instrument panel and canopy and I am considering
>enlarging the panel downward 3" to 4" ? so that I can install full
>gyro's ,KLX-135, and transponder up front. Has anybody out there
>encountered any clearance problems between panel and stick? Is it
>necessary to shorten the stick?
>
>Jody Edwards
>fuselage
>JodyEdwards(at)juno.com
>
Jody,
I enlarged the panel on my RV-4 by lowering it 2 inches and had to shorten
the stick.
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
Rocky Mount, NC
RV-8 #80126 N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
(919)937-4905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Re: Boone Fly-in? |
--> RV-List message posted by: dougweil(at)pressenter.com (Doug Weiler)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>
> Does anyone know if there is going to be a RV fly-in at Boone, Iowa this
> year. If so, when?
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
I believe the Boone Fly-in is June 21 (Sat). Cleaveland Tools would know
for sure.
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, Circuit Breakers and Spins |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
(Snip)
>normally. That was 200 hours ago. There have been other similar experiences
>which cause me to prefer circuit breakers over fuses.
As another thought, in my professional flying days I ran
across a couple of times hwen the cure was to replace the
breaker.
I often wondered if fuses would have the same weakness.
Of course as some one pointed out that maintenance used
them to isolate when changing components.
Every side by side seating airplane
>spin was about the same and I reasoned that all airplanes spin the about
>same but you are riding outside the center of rotation and being swung around
>like some of those rides at the amusement park.
>
>Just a thought.
Good point, Has anyone with lots of spin experience in a
side by side compared opposite direction spin while sole?
>
Have A Great Day!
Denny
Denton Harjehausen
retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com
RV-6/ Fuselage
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 instrument panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
Jody J EDWARDS wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: jodyedwards(at)juno.com (Jody J EDWARDS)
>
> Hi, New guy question,
> I am about to install my instrument panel and canopy and I am considering
> enlarging the panel downward 3" to 4" ? so that I can install full
> gyro's ,KLX-135, and transponder up front. Has anybody out there
> encountered any clearance problems between panel and stick? Is it
> necessary to shorten the stick?
>
> Jody Edwards
> fuselage
> JodyEdwards(at)juno.com
Jody
Beware of the 402 bulkhead, it's only about 2 1/2-3 inches behind the
instrument panel. I layed out everything around this part.
You can also use 3/4 x 3/4 x .125 for the top of F402, this might buy
you some space.
As far as the the stick goes, mine is about 1 1/2 inches below the
stock panel, you will have to cut it.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL
the fuel system is now complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Vans fuel sender |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Osgood
I have bent and cut the fuel float as per the instructions supplied in
the box from van's and am now I have a question.
Is there a final small bend beyond what the instructions specify? It
appears that as linstalled, there is nothing to keep the float arm wire
from piviting freely or from coming out of the plastic clips. Am I
mising something here...??
Thanks
--
Rick Osgood RV6A wing tanks under way
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marker beacon antenna |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
--> RV-List message posted by: less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS)
Hi All,
Sportcraft antenna (Bob Archer) has a marker beacon antenna for $25 that
mounts in the same wingtip as the wingtip NAV antenna ($55). So save $30
by getting a wingtip marker beacon antenna.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
> /Does anybody know if "in-wing tip" marker beacon antennas are =
>
> /made. If not, are there any which can be easily adapted?
>
> An adaptation of Bob Archer's VOR wing tip antennas would
> work for marker beacon too. You might give Bob a call and
> see if he's worked out the details. Call Bob Archer at
>310-316-8796
> and tell him I sent you.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee
>Reminds me of a BFR I had a few years ago. The instructor pulled power and
>said "pick out a landing site". I picked out a nice road with no traffic
>and no power lines and lined up to land on it. My instructor asked me why
>I didn't pick the 80 acres of flat plowed field. I said I liked the nice
>smooth road better. She said "That's the trouble with you guys that own
>your own plane! A renter would have picked the field. You guys worry too
>much about your planes!"
Okay, that was probably a joke but--having had the real "opportunity" to
land without the convenience of a runway within reach I'm not sure I agree
with the flight instructor here. I learned to fly off of a paved strip
that is narrower than most roads and to me a road with no powerlines is far
better than a plowed field unless there is something on the road coming at
me. Anyone is welcome to comment on this:
1) Pick out the best place that you know you can make it to.
2) If the airplane is in one piece I probably will be too.
If you are used to flying of of 3000 feet or more, make it a point to
practice your short field landings. If you end up landing down wind it'll
just be a short field landing.
I can hear my flight instructor ringing in my ears..AIRSPEED AIRSPEED AIRSPEED
Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com
Life without obsession is such a shallow existence.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Humbard <jhumb(at)apexcorp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP-Bus Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jay Humbard
As the owner of Control Vision and the designer of the EXP BUS, let me
respond to Mr. Nuckles criticism(s) of the product...
Many of his concerns are based on his misunderstanding of the product,
and perhaps a bit of "not invented here"...
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>>
> /Does it subtract any level of safety? In other words is
> /it dangerous? Other that having a long battery line that is
> /always hot?
There is no reason to have a long hot battery line in any EXP
installation. -- JH
>
> Not running the starter cranking current through the battery
> master is a safety issue...
While this is one option for installing the EXP - this is by no means
the only option. Most people are installing the EXP with a master
solenoid, particularly in aircraft that are primarily cross country
machines. When installed in this configuration, the starter should be
connected to the switched side of the solenoid, per our installation
manual. His point regarding the starter solenoid sticking is a minor
one, since the starter is rarely (NEVER?) engaged inflight, this reduces
this extremely remote scenario to more of an irritation, than a safety
issue. JH
> The self-reseting nature of poly-fuses can hide a latent failure;
> you can be suffering intermittant short that you don't catch
> because the poly-switch resets when the short clears.
"The self-resetting nature of the polyfuses" is actually ideal for use
in aircraft. Once tripped, they will remain tripped until the load on
the circuit is reduced virtually to zero. They will only reset in a
circuit that is unloaded. If an intermittent short shuts down the com
radio, the remaining load from the radio will keep the poly-fuse
tripped, preventing the circuit from cycling on and off. To get the PF
to reset, one must TURN OFF THE RADIO. Mr Nuckolls obviously does not
understand how the devices operate. -- JH
> One version of the EXP-Bus installation uses the terminals of the
> switches to suport the etched circuit board. This adds mechanical
> stresses to the switch terminals for which they were not designed.
> Slight mis-alignment of the row of switches would aggravate the >
The installation manual advises against mounting the EXP board by the
switch bushings. The proper method is to support the PC board by the
mounting holes, not by the switches.
To this end, we now offer pre-stamped mounting gussets that allow one to
quickly install the unit properly in most panels. We now also offer
rocker switches for a more stylish installation. -- JH
> The last time I looked at an EXP-Bus and it's competitors at
> OSH last year, they were both dropping wires directly to pads on
> a p.c. board with no insulation support. After going to the trouble
> to use PIDG terminals on the rest of your wiring, it seems prudent
> that insulation support in the rest of the system would be nice.
He is simply wrong here. All connections to the bus should be made using
terminals. We do not advocate "dropping wires" directly to the PC
board. JH
Most of Mr. Nuckolls objection to the product seems to be that it does
not save (much) time, money, or weight. For someone of his background
and knowledge, his assertion is probably right. However, most builders
lack his expertise and experience in electrical system design and
implimentation, and will have more trouble with a "conventional" system
than he would have. I invite any EXP users to comment on this, as they
are in a better position to know than either myself, or Mr. Nuckolls.
The EXP product is an time saving device that is flexible enough to
accomodate the needs of virtually all RV's, Kitfoxes, Glasstars and
similar aircraft.
Our feedback from customers is that the board saves them time, both in
the installation and in the planning stages of their electrical
systems. It organizes the system, giving them a starting point, and
because much of the design has been done, saves them troubleshooting
time as well. It is true that the EXP does not solve all of their
problems, but it does solve ALMOST all of their problems.
Jay Humbard
Control Vision Corporation
http://www.controlvision.com
jay(at)controlvision.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
Michael McGee wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee
>
> >Reminds me of a BFR I had a few years ago. The instructor pulled power and
> >said "pick out a landing site". I picked out a nice road with no traffic
> >and no power lines and lined up to land on it. My instructor asked me why
> >I didn't pick the 80 acres of flat plowed field. I said I liked the nice
> >smooth road better. She said "That's the trouble with you guys that own
> >your own plane! A renter would have picked the field. You guys worry too
> >much about your planes!"
>
> Okay, that was probably a joke but--having had the real "opportunity" to
> land without the convenience of a runway within reach I'm not sure I agree
> with the flight instructor here. I learned to fly off of a paved strip
> that is narrower than most roads and to me a road with no powerlines is far
> better than a plowed field unless there is something on the road coming at
> me. Anyone is welcome to comment on this:
>
> 1) Pick out the best place that you know you can make it to.
> 2) If the airplane is in one piece I probably will be too.
>
> If you are used to flying of of 3000 feet or more, make it a point to
> practice your short field landings. If you end up landing down wind it'll
> just be a short field landing.
>
> I can hear my flight instructor ringing in my ears..AIRSPEED AIRSPEED AIRSPEED
>
> Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com
> Life without obsession is such a shallow existence.
Mike
I agree with you, why land in a plowed field if a *CLEAR OPEN* road is
avialable? I have been the plowed field route and it was not fun.
Here I was 300 ft. in the air on take off when the engine quit and all
around was plowed fields so I just landed straight ahead and when I
touched down the nose gear broke and upside down I went.
This was in a early 70's homebuilt open cockpit design called
a MINI COUPE with a VW engine. This VW engine built by Revmaster
let me down twice so needless to say I won't fly any airplane
with VW power anymore.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
--> RV-List message posted by: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
I'm about to order breaker/toggle switch combo's to save some space.
Is there any good reason to avoid these, other than the fact if the
switch wears out you also lose a breaker? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>--> RV-List message posted by: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
>
>I'm about to order breaker/toggle switch combo's to save some space.
>Is there any good reason to avoid these, other than the fact if the
>switch wears out you also lose a breaker? Thanks.
Michael,
I went the standard switch and switch/C.B. route on my first RV. On the
second, I'll follow Bob Nucholl's recommendations to use the automotive,
blade type fuses. If I remember correctly, I think I figured that this
alternative would have saved me much building time, been simpler and lighter
and saved around $450.00.
I recommend that you sign up for Bob's AeroElectric Connection to add to
your library of resources. (And, no. I don't get a commision from Bob.
Just think he offers some good ideas.)
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider (RV6 & 6A) panel overhang head chopper |
--> RV-List message posted by: Cafgef(at)aol.com
JC Whitney sells something called windless that will cover the sharp edge of
the panel visor. The windless is handy for all sorts of sharp edges. I am
using a combination of windless covered by foam pipe insulation. The windless
spreads the impact from my head hitting the visor so the visor would not cut
through the foam. I am treating this whole exercise as theoretical and not
putting it to an actual test ( I truly hope).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EXP-Bus Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
Thank you for your response to Mr. Nuckolls' review of your product. I am
sure I speak for most of the 700 members of the list when I say it was
appreciated. I predict Nuckolls will like it because of its specificity
I enjoyed reading the parts of your response which were directed at defending
your product and explaining possible misunderstandings. The parts where you
attempted to undermine Mr. Nuckolls' knowledge and credibilty were at best
lame and at worst embarrassing (for you). I have read most of his published
work and appreciate his knowledge, writing skills and open mind. Of course
he is biased toward safety, and indeed he has been emotional in his comments
about your advertising practices and safety considerations.
You would have been better advised to send a sample of your product and its
instructions to Mr. Nuckolls and trusted his knowledge and analytical ability
to make your points for you. Instead you have indulged in a flaming contest
which is not appreciated by most of us on the list. By the way spelling his
name Nuckles at first will probably be lost on him anyway since he can't
spell worth a shytte anyway.
I sincerely hope you can find a way to communicate with each other in some
other way than on this list as far as your emotions are concerned. As far as
the product reviews and responses... Keep em coming!!
D Walsh
RV-6A builder and flyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
<< I'm about to order breaker/toggle switch combo's to save some space.
Is there any good reason to avoid these, other than the fact if the
switch wears out you also lose a breaker? >>
The P&B switch type breakers have worked fine in my Kitfox for the past 7.5
yrs and will probably last the life of the plane. If you want absolute
simplicity, you have not too many toys coming off the bus and they all need
switching, this is the way to go. However, I think you will find that in
more complex aircraft, some items don't need switching, they just need
protection on that individual branch.
I'm using rocker switches and push button circuit breakers in my 6A because
not everything needs a switch yet each circuit branch needs individual
protection.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Automotive ATO style fuses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Hi,
I've been following the fuses as an option to circuit breakers thread
with interest. A lot of good advise and information has been passed to
the list members. I thought I would add to it a little.
For those considering using automotive ATO (spade) type fuses there is
also another option for some (maybe all?) of your circuits. Small self
resetting circuit breakers are made which fit into the ATO style fuse
blocks. They are available through good auto supply stores and cost
about $2-$3 each. I know that they are available in 10 & 20 amp sizes.
There may be other (smaller) sizes available.
While these breakers do not have a reset button on them to indicate
which one is tripping, simply placing your hand over the fuse panel will
allow you to feel which breaker is tripping. You then have the choice of
ignoring it (high workload situation) or pulling it out (workload
permitting). This would require that the fuse panel be placed within
easy reach of the pilot. I'm not advocating this approach, merely
stating it's existance. Does anyone have opinions as to the feasablity
of this idea?
Does anyone know if other sizes (3, 5, 7.5 amp) are available. If they
are, where can they be obtained?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 tail kit ordered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>Another thing to think about is that a 180 turn heads you back
>downwind but doesn't line you up with the runway. By the time you get
>lined back up, it's gonna be the equivalent of about a 270 with more
>altitude lost.
Exactly: this is NOT a 180 degree turn. That would only get you turned
around and NOW you have to turn towards the runway, which means about a 220
degree turn followed by another 40 or so degree turn to line up (and we all
know turns are high drag maneuvers). Try it at altitude lined up with a
country road as your "landing point" and you will be amazed at the altitude
loss.
Usually better to land straight ahead. At your airport (which is where the
flameout is most likely to occur), have areas ahead checked out to land in,
even to the point of getting on the mountain bike and riding over them to
see what the surface is like, where the best place to land is. And
watch/mentally aim for those EVERY time you take off. (OK, from here it is
just this side of that tree, along the fence line. OK, now it's the field
on the other side of the road......)
Yikes.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Colwell <colwell(at)innercite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP-Bus Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Colwell
Bob, does this mean we don't need an Avionics Master, that we can just
leave all the avionics on all the time and let the Master Switch turn
everything on and off?
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>The fragile,
germanium transistors of the time would come out of saturation
in the power supplies, go into second breakdown and voila, "my
starter just killed my radio."
It took us years later to understand the phenomenon and in the
mean time, DO-160 says you'll design a radio to take anything
an airplane will throw at it. Germanium has long since been
replaced by more rugged silicon. Radio manufacturers have become
a lot smarter. Alternator runaway overvoltage is the only
"gremlin" left to guard against.<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
In your message you engage in more personal flaming than that which you
criticize, therefore, I assume your own views don't apply to you, just to
others. Is this correct?
I think that Mr. Humbard, or any other manufacturer, has the right to defend
criticisms of their product made by others on this list. If they are aware of
it,
and don't, I think they are admitting what is said to be true.
I did not take any of the comments of Mr. Humbard to be a personal attack
toward Mr. Nuckolls, but only statements of rebuttal toward one person's
opinion. I hope that the list continues to get comments of differing
opinions or else it will get awfully boring!
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/N24LW (res)/finish kit
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of aol.com!Bumflyer(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 1997 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EXP-Bus Safety?
--> RV-List message posted by: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
Thank you for your response to Mr. Nuckolls' review of your product. I am
sure I speak for most of the 700 members of the list when I say it was
appreciated. I predict Nuckolls will like it because of its specificity
I enjoyed reading the parts of your response which were directed at defending
your product and explaining possible misunderstandings. The parts where you
attempted to undermine Mr. Nuckolls' knowledge and credibilty were at best
lame and at worst embarrassing (for you). I have read most of his published
work and appreciate his knowledge, writing skills and open mind. Of course
he is biased toward safety, and indeed he has been emotional in his comments
about your advertising practices and safety considerations.
You would have been better advised to send a sample of your product and its
instructions to Mr. Nuckolls and trusted his knowledge and analytical ability
to make your points for you. Instead you have indulged in a flaming contest
which is not appreciated by most of us on the list. By the way spelling his
name Nuckles at first will probably be lost on him anyway since he can't
spell worth a shytte anyway.
I sincerely hope you can find a way to communicate with each other in some
other way than on this list as far as your emotions are concerned. As far as
the product reviews and responses... Keep em coming!!
D Walsh
RV-6A builder and flyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll
I was in a greeting card shop yesterday. On Hallmark's rack of cards for
fathers day I saw one that showed a guy with a small wooden box in hand and
a whole shop of large power tools behind him. The caption said "After
completing 10,000 more odd jobs he will have his tools paid for." Somehow I
thought they were showing a picture of an RV builder.
Bruce Knoll
To start a RV 6A after Oshkosh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans fuel sender |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick E. Kelley"
Rick Osgood wrote:
>
> Is there a final small bend beyond what the instructions specify? It
> appears that as linstalled, there is nothing to keep the float arm wire
> from piviting freely or from coming out of the plastic clips. Am I
> mising something here...??
Rick, if I understand your dilemma correctly, on the side view of the
float diagram you will see a 90 degree bend of about 3/4" length. This
is the pivot on which the float wire turns, and will snap into the
plastic arm on the sender unit. It also prevents the wire from rotating
or sliding in the clip of the sender arm. Hope that helps.
PatK - RV-6A - Left wing structure complete, rivetting skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP-Bus Safety? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
aol.com!Bumflyer(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
>
> Thank you for your response to Mr. Nuckolls' review of your product. I am
> sure I speak for most of the 700 members of the list when I say it was
> appreciated. I predict Nuckolls will like it because of its specificity
>
> I enjoyed reading the parts of your response which were directed at defending
> your product and explaining possible misunderstandings. The parts where you
> attempted to undermine Mr. Nuckolls' knowledge and credibilty were at best
> lame and at worst embarrassing (for you). I have read most of his published
> work and appreciate his knowledge, writing skills and open mind. Of course
> he is biased toward safety, and indeed he has been emotional in his comments
> about your advertising practices and safety considerations.
>
> You would have been better advised to send a sample of your product and its
> instructions to Mr. Nuckolls and trusted his knowledge and analytical ability
> to make your points for you. Instead you have indulged in a flaming contest
> which is not appreciated by most of us on the list. By the way spelling his
> name Nuckles at first will probably be lost on him anyway since he can't
> spell worth a shytte anyway.
>
> I sincerely hope you can find a way to communicate with each other in some
> other way than on this list as far as your emotions are concerned. As far as
> the product reviews and responses... Keep em coming!!
>
> D Walsh
> RV-6A builder and flyer
Actually Bumflyer you don't speak for me, I did not see Mr Humbard
flaming anyone, he was defending his product as he has a right to
do, after all there has been allot of negative posts here about
the EXP-Bus by Mr Nuckolls. I appreciate all of the good information
Bob posts here but I do get a feeling that he feels if it is not done
his way it is wrong. I like reading about other ways to get a job
done then I can make up my own mind about which way I want to do it.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KX-155, Marker Beacon, and 2nd comm w/o audio panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian & Sharon Eckstein <eckstein@net-link.net>
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@norway-c.it.earthlink.net>
>
> On 7 Jun 97 at 11:05, Brian & Sharon Eckstein wrote:
>
> > I built a RST Audio Panel with the Marker Beacon option. At under $300,
> > it's got an intercom, Marker Beacon, Audio Panel and weighs 1 lb. It
> > looks as nice as any of the others and costs 1/4th. There is an
> > auxilliary input which mutes automatically on any radio activity. That
> > will be nice for a CD. There is a switch to bypass the audio panel in
> > case of malfunction. It took about 20 hours to build. I would think you
> > would be hard pressed to keep the cost of marker and intercom as low.
> > You could wire your hand held into it too.
> >
> Have you flown the unit yet? If so, please let me know what you think
> of the unit. I sure like RST's price, but I don't know about the
> performance of the audio panel. I built an RST portable intercom
> several years ago. It worked, but the squelch was extremely
> difficult to set. It would either break squelch all the time (hot
> mike) or else not break squelch when we talked. I was much happier
> with a Flightcom that I installed later.
>
> Tim
> ---------------------
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6AQ #60023
> San Antonio TX
> timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
> -----------------------
No, I've not flown it yet. All other sources have been unanimous that
RST products are at least as good as any others. Also, RST offers an
inexpensive post construction calibration/test. Did you voice your
concerns to Jim? He has been very helpful to me.
Brian Eckstein
6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: KX-155, Marker Beacon, and 2nd comm w/o audio panel |
<339B541B.2B1@net-link.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: rvbildr(at)juno.com
Brian,
I want to install a cd player in my 6 also. Do you know if anyone has
tried listening to fm music or cd on speakers, or are headphones
necessary?
Which unit did you buy and will it fit into a standard radio rack with
the avionics?
Mal
RV-6 finishing kit
rvbildr(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: chester razer
Happiness is seeing all the little boxes of airplane parts slowly
dissappear from the garage floor, shop shelves, and from under the bed
and in the closets. More happiness is seeing the UPS truck stop in
front of your house.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel H. Morris III"
I felt that I left out a few notes on this topic and so would like to add
how we do things in gliders.
> Exactly: this is NOT a 180 degree turn. That would only get you turned
>
In gliders we train to expect a power (tow plane or rope) loss on takeoff
and therefore are prepared. The training includes- knowing the minmum
altitude at which you can turn around safely; being prepared to land
safely straight ahead below that altitude; conscoinusly knowing the wind
direction prior to takeoff; and planning for failure situations. With the
wind consideration you know the factors when landing straight ahead, know
which way to turn if returning to the airport (turn into the wind), and
anticipate the downwind conditions. All of the above will effect the
minimum safe turn around altitude.
> Usually better to land straight ahead. At your airport (which is where
the
> flameout is most likely to occur), have areas ahead checked out to land
in,
> even to the point of getting on the mountain bike and riding over them to
> see what the surface is like, where the best place to land is. And
> watch/mentally aim for those EVERY time you take off. (OK, from here it
is
> just this side of that tree, along the fence line. OK, now it's the
field
> on the other side of the road......)
Just what we do in gliders.
Consider that the climb angle once established, say at midfield for a 2500
ft runway, of 9:1 (roughly 800 FPM at 80 MPH). At 400 ft (1/2 min) you
would have traveled 3519 ft or 2270 ft past the end of the runway. After
power loss, assume a typical power airplane glide ratio of 10:1 at best
glide 65mph. That equals a sink rate of 572 FPM. In a 45 degree banked
turn that will be slightly less than double or 1100 FPM. A 45 degree
banked turn will take about 10 seconds to complete 200 degrees of turn, for
a loss of 184 ft lost. The turn radius brought you to within 2000 ft of
the end of the runway. To make the remaining 2000 ft you will need 200 ft
of altitude for a total of 384 ft lost. These numbers are approximate but
very close. The main thing is to fly the airplane. Thou shalt maintain
thy airspeed! If you have a head wind it will drift you towards the runway
and reduce the distance to return. If you have a cross wind it will help
the turn, IF you turn the right direction. Bottom line, think power
failure constantly until at a safe altitude. Those who forget in gliders
or airplanes add to the statistics.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stick Not Hitting RV-6A Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@norway-c.it.earthlink.net>
On my RV-6A (slider) the stick doesn't hit the instrument panel when
the stick is pushed full forward. The stick stops almost 2" aft of
the vertical plane of the instrument panel. Is this normal? Did I
build something wrong?
I gather from Van's comment on the last page of the last RVator, and
from some comments on the list, that my situation may not be normal.
How far forward do the the sticks go on other builders' RV-6s to get
full down elevator deflection?
Thanks,
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca (joehine) |
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 instrument panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca (joehine)
>--> RV-List message posted by: jodyedwards(at)juno.com (Jody J EDWARDS)
>
>Hi, New guy question,
>I am about to install my instrument panel and canopy and I am considering
>enlarging the panel downward 3" to 4" ? so that I can install full
>gyro's ,KLX-135, and transponder up front. Has anybody out there
>encountered any clearance problems between panel and stick? Is it
>necessary to shorten the stick?
>
>Jody Edwards
>fuselage
>JodyEdwards(at)juno.com
Jody,
Yes it is necessary to shorten the stick a little bit. I did the same thing
you are thinging of doing (3"). Plane hasn't flown yet but it looks ok so far.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ days away from moving to the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Tilt Canopy? |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
--> RV-List message posted by: tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman)
writes:
>My question is, is the RV-8 available with the standard RV-4
>type
>tilting canopy?
I asked Van this question at Sun 'n' Fun last year, so this is old
information. He replied that a side-tilting canopy would be available,
but that it would still have the canopy bow. I too hate to have any
structure in my field of view. However, I did not find the RV-8 bow
objectionable. It was far enough aft that it did not bother me.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel injection |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
--> RV-List message posted by: tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman)
>I am close to purchasing a used engine for my new project and the
>bendix
>fuel control needs to be rebuilt. Does anyone have any opinions on
>getting
>the bendix rebuilt vs. buying a new airflow performance unit?
Tom,
I researched this question before purchasing my engine, and found that
some engine builders prefer Bendix, while others prefer Airflow
Performance. My decision was to let the engine builder use the system he
was most comfortable with. Everett Hatch likes Airflow Performance, so
that is the one I am using.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 instrument panel |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
--> RV-List message posted by: tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman)
(Jody J EDWARDS) writes:
>Hi, New guy question, I am about to install my instrument
>panel and canopy and I am considering enlarging the panel downward 3"
>to 4" ? so that I can install full gyro's ,KLX-135, and transponder
>up front. Has anybody out there
>encountered any clearance problems between panel and stick? Is it
>necessary to shorten the stick?
>
Jody,
The RV-4 panel is tight. I found that I could not lower the panel much
from its called-out dimensions, although I know others who have. The
reason is that I am 6'2", and most of that is legs. I made the panel
about 1" lower than the plans dimensions, which just barely allows my
knees to slip through when I climb in. I could not fit IFR instruments
and radios into the panel, so I built a vertical panel between my knees
for the radios. I have a mild IFR setup. You will need to shorten the
stick slightly to clear the bottom of the panel. I recommend leaving the
stick as long as possible until you fly the airplane for a while. Then,
if you still want a shorter stick, you can cut it down. I know a couple
of pilots who shortened their sticks, then flew RVs with longer sticks,
and wished they had not cut theirs.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: voltage regulator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
/I have an elec. Westach tach which tells me to connect power =
/lead to my distributor, or ignition source. I don't have a =
/distributor and don't believe that today's cars have either. =
/I assume I should connect to a mag, but since the "P" leads =
/are soldered at tip and enclosed in hex nut, where should I =
/connect this wire ?
The other end of the p-lead wire is generally available
at the mageto switch. Some tach manufacturers want you
to use a pair of resistors to connect to BOTH mags so
that either can provide an RPM signal. You might want
to call Westburg directly and ask them for the specifics
of the tach model you have. I don't have their phone number
here at home . . . you might call me at work at 316.676.3286
I think I've got them in my database there.
/Also, I would very much like a copy of the "crowbar" if you =
/could advise me as to how to receive it. (e-mail)?
Shoot me a mailing address. Be sure to mention the crowbar
circuits . . . I get lots of mail addresses with no
clue as to what the individual would like for me to send!
/I have also seen a voltage reg with only one wire coming out of =
/it which I assume goes to "Alt" switch, no "S" that I can =
/see.
Beat's me. A voltage regulator takes at least 3 connections
one of which may be a ground through the mounting feet
June 01, 1997 - June 09, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-cy