RV-Archive.digest.vol-da

      
      charge you extra?
      
      I really seriously doubt that the early failure was caused by panel angle!  Do
      
      you suppose Van doesn't know about tilted gyros??
      
      Maybe I'll make my panel vertical.
      
      
      Hal Kempthorne   RV-6AQ --  On main gear
      halk(at)sybase.com     Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC    
      
      > 
      >    While the angle you have calculated does indeed represent 
      > the 4.2 degrees from vertical, how does this relate to the angle
      > of the panel while in the cruse configuration. The original Atificial
      > Horizon that I purchased (from Van's) didn't have any tilt factored 
      > in, and it failed within the first 100 hours of flight. The next one had
      > the 8 degrees of tilt designed in, and is still operational. 
      > 
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: 
Re: Plexiglass paint removal
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
      
      > I bought my RV-4 already built, and there is a slight dusting of paint on the
      > entire inside of the canopy. Should I do the Micro-mesh treatment to remove
      > this? Will anything else cut the paint without damaging the plexi?
      
      I'd definitely call Vans and have them connect you with the place that
      makes the canopies and get their advice.
      
      I was told you could use isopropyl alcohol or Naptha on the canopy.  I
      used Naptha with no problem to clean off some excess sealant around the
      edges.  I don't know how well it will work on dried paint however.
      
      I used micro-mesh to polish out some scratches in my canopy.  Be
      forewarned -- if you intend to micro-mesh the whole canopy you are in
      for many many hours of hard work!  The stuff does work, but only if you
      read the directions and adhere strictly to them!  You can't cut corners
      with this stuff.  I'd definitely try to get the paint off some other way
      first.
      
      Randall Henderson, RV-6
      randall(at)edt.com
      http://www.edt.com/homewing
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
Subject: 
Re: cabin air
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
      
      
      << On my RV-4 I have no problem getting air into the cockpit. My question is
       where does the air go?  
      
       On my current project I am at the stage where I could put in some
       vents in the right location, if there is one,
        >>
      
      Tom:
      
      I could say something like: It simply disappears, like one of each pair of my
      socks do, when I put them in the washer. Altho, sometimes they turn into
      hangers....
      
      Think of it like this: Where is there low pressure? I'm sure the air is at
      least 'trying' to go there. 
      
      Air comes in the front, and presumably out the back. OK, but thow does it get
      there? On the -4, it would flow around the rear seat back, thru the luggage
      compartment, and out near the tail. So, where is the low pressure area at the
      tail? Under the horiz stab, of course. I see many folks with a nice seal
      under the stab, but this is where I think most of the cabin air exits the
      fuse. You should put some 1/8" hardware cloth in this area to keep the
      critters out, tho. You may also want to put an outlet in the rear baggage
      bulkhead, say 4" dia, and also use hardware cloth here. 
      
      I'm not sure the "leakage" around the rudder/v stab is enough. 
      
      So, how are you getting the air in? -4 listers would like to know. 
      
      Check six!
      Mark
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: 
Re: Question about washers
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
      
      
      > >Does anyone know why the plans call out two large 970-3 washers in =
      the=20
      > >inboard aileron hinge assembly?...I am wondering why I can't use =
      smaller=20
      > >diameter washers to bear against the bearings.
      
      The oversize washers are intended to "capture" the bearing in case
      it fails. Good redundantcy/safety feature.
      
      You may actually only need one per side.  If you look at dwg 21, detail
      'A', you will see it says "AN970-3 2 REQ'D".  Generally this means two
      total.  I am guessing this is because if you do it like the plans show,
      with one long spacer on the same side as the big washer, then if the
      bearing fails, the spacer and washer will keep things in place on that
      side, and on the other side the face of the aileron bracket will do the
      job.  Interestingly, they call out "4 REQ'D" for the spacers, which some
      people do -- even length spacers on each side of the bearing.  I guess
      it would depend on which way you do it.
      
      > >If I can use the smaller diameter washers I can avoid having to place =
      =20
      > >a minimum order for =BC pound or 100 of the 970-3's just to get the =
      two=20
      > >I need.
      
      I never had a problem with minimum orders for this stuff....? Just
      ask them to stick a couple of em in an envelope...!
      
      Randall Henderson, RV-6
      randall(at)edt.com
      http://www.edt.com/homewing
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: 
Question about washers
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" 
      
      Hi Mike,
      
      I talked to Van's today and you are absolutely correct.  The purpose 
      of the large washer is to capture the rod end in case of a bearing 
      failure.  With the large washer in place the aileron control rod will 
      'flop' from side to side only a fraction of an inch instead of sliding 
      from side to side along the whole one inch length of the bolt/spacer. 
      
      The advise I got was to keep a couple of dozen of the large washers on 
      hand for similar applications. One example was on the throttle cable.
      
      Steve Soule
      Huntington, Vermont
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
"John C. Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net>
Subject: 
Re: spar construction
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: "John C. Devlin" 
      
      Craig,
           This hydraulic press method worked very well for me and I recommend it to
      you.   In 
      retrospect, I would weld or bolt metal braces to keep the  press frame perfectly
      
      vertical during operation.  Also the addition of limiter vise grip clamps at the
      base of 
      the hydraulic bottle jack to prevent it from walking during operation is recommended.
      I 
      taped 1/8 inch luan plywood shims between the  frame and traveling part of the
      press to 
      reduce the slop.  They had to be periodically repositioned during operation.  The
      spar 
      needs to be checked for level in both directions prior to each press.
              I set the press up so that the shop head was up and the manufactured head
      down. 
       So from top to bottom the order was hydraulic press rod, shop head, spar, manufactured
      
      head, die, 3/4 in tempered rod, and backing plates.  The manufactured head die
      was 
      fitted into a 6 in long piece of 3/4 in steel rod that I tempered. The tempering
      
      consisted of simply repeatedly(about three times) heating the rod to cherry red
      with a 
      propane torch and plunging it into used motor oil until cool.  (Drill the hole
      for the 
      die before tempering).  This rod was placed in a wooden block as described in the
      Klee 
      article and backed by the stock backing plates sold with the press.  The wooden
      block 
      was held in place with wood carpenter clamps that Harbor Freight also sells.  The
      rod 
      mushroomed a small amount but didn't interfer with the process.  Paint was removed
      from 
      the end of the press's rod end with sand paper.  This was to prevent slipping and
      
      prevent paint from being pressed into the rivet.
          A platform was made from two courses of cinder blocks for the press frame.
      This was 
      to bring the working area to eye level and  reduce  personal fatique.  Three courses
      
      might have worked better because my legs were really sore the next day from doing
      six 
      hours of deep knee bends.  Both spars only took six hours and the results look
      
      excellent.
          Roller in feed and out feeds are, in my opinion, a necessity.  They can be
      made or 
      purchased and are useful throughout the shop.  These feeds were adjusted so that
      the 
      manufactured head die is very slightly higher than the feeds but not enough to
      effect 
      the level.
           The rivets were held in place by masking tape which was removed as the rivet
      and 
      spar were moved over the die prior to pressing.  A feeler guage was used initially
      to 
      insure a complete press but after a few rivets a MK1A eyeball and feeling the hydraulic
      
      jack handle resistance  was sufficient.   While pressing, the rivet deformation
      was 
      observed to abort the press if the rivet started to deform to one side.  If this
      was the 
      case, the press was raised a bit and level checked/corrected and pressing restarted.
      
      Many of the rivets needed to be shortened to the accepatble length prior to pressing
      
      because deformation to one side was a certainty if too long. 
          None of the rivets needed to be drilled out using this method.  The process
      took no 
      more than six hours and the results were excellent.  Mr. Klee had a great idea
      and I 
      thank him for sharing it with me.
      Hope this helps,
      John Devlin
      RV6A, skinning wings, fuselage on order, really enjoying building, can't wait to
      fly it
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com>
Subject: 
Re: Question about washers
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter 
      
      The reason for the wider washers is to hold the bearing together if it were
      to come apart on you.  Since that is the only purpose for the washers I
      suppose you could make a couple washers from 0.032 2024 T4 stock.  I've got
      a bunch of 970-4's but that won't help you.
      
      JA
      
      
      >--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" 
      >
      >Does anyone know why the plans call out two large 970-3 washers in the=20
      >inboard aileron hinge assembly?  I only got two of these large washers=20
      >with my RV-6 kit and used both of them on the left wing.  I am now=20
      >working on the right wing and I am wondering why I can't use smaller=20
      >diameter washers to bear against the bearings.
      >
      >If I can use the smaller diameter washers I can avoid having to place=20
      >a minimum order for =BC pound or 100 of the 970-3's just to get the two=20
      >I need.
      >
      >Steve Soule
      >Huntington Vermont
      >
      >
      >
      >
      John Ammeter
      ammeterj(at)seanet.com
      3233 NE 95th St
      Seattle WA, 98115 USA
      206-525-5445
      RV-6 N16JA
      First flight August 1990
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com>
Subject: 
Re: Computers on board?
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter 
      
      Dennis,
      
      I'm sure you know more than I'll ever know about radios.  That said, I just
      tried exactly what you said.  I took my ICOM handheld (set to 122.775, if
      that matters) and held it near my P-75 computer.  I got no increase in
      static and it didn't break squelch when I set the squelch with the radio
      over 6 feet from the computer.
      
      I've got a full size tower (Zeos) BTW.
      
      John
      
      
      >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk" 
      >
      >
      >
      >----------
      >> From: Chris Hinch <dcc.govt.nz!chris(at)matronics.com>
      >> To: 'smtp:rv-list(at)matronics.com'
      >> Subject: RV-List: Computers on board?
      >> Date: Tuesday, June 17, 1997 5:53 PM
      >> 
      >> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hinch 
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >> Will a CPU upset other avionics?  What about a stable power supply? Are 
      >> there any regulations that affect my ability to do this?
      >
      >Chris: A Pentium processor is a pretty good jamming device.  If you have a
      >handheld aircraft band transceiver, turn it on and bring it near an
      >operating CPU.  If you can get closer than 10 feet without breaking squelch
      >you have an extraordinarily-well shielded computer.  The RFI from the CPU
      >is both radiated and conducted from the source, making shielding
      >challenging.
      >You might obtain some application notes from Intel on shielding.  Low EMI
      >(Electromagnetic Interference) enclosures for CPUs are commonplace.
      >Dennis   (amateur radio N9DP) 6A fuselage
      >
      >> Chris Hinch (RV8 to be - garage being turned into a workshop, buying
      >tools)
      >> Management Information Systems
      >> Dunedin, Dunedin City Council
      >> Internet  : chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
      >
      >
      John Ammeter
      ammeterj(at)seanet.com
      3233 NE 95th St
      Seattle WA, 98115 USA
      206-525-5445
      RV-6 N16JA
      First flight August 1990
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
Steve Miceli <102630.1237(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: 
Re: spar construction
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Steve Miceli <102630.1237(at)CompuServe.COM>
      
      GET A HOLD OF A MAY '93 SPORT AVIATION MAGAZINE (CALL EAA FOR A BACK ISSUE IF
      NECESSARY). IT IS EXPLAINED VERY NICELY BY TONY BINGELIS.
      BY THE WAY, I AM CURRENTLY USING THE ARBOR PRESS METHOD, IT WORKS GREAT.
      BEAUTIFUL SHOP HEADS EVERY TIME.  PRACTICE ON A PIECE OF SCRAP FIRST TO
      CALIBRATE YOUR ARM.  GOOD LUCK!
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
"Mark S. Malone" <mmalone(at)dialus.com>
Subject: 
LED Dimmer
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark S. Malone" 
      
      I need some help from the electronics gurus.  I'm putting .125" LED's
      above each switch on my panel.  The LED will light when the switch is
      energizes the equipment, i.e., pitot heat, nav lights, strobe lights,
      etc.  I would like to be able to dim the LED's with a single dimmer. I
      know I can do this with a relay for each switch or a double pole switch.
      Is there anyway to do this with switching transitors?  My Radio Shack
      rep suggested this when we were discussing mounting the solid state
      relays to a pc board.  Obviously the transistors would be lighter.  Any
      ideas would be greatly appreciated.
      
      Mark Malone
      RV6A - Working on panel.
      mmalone(at)dialus.com
      Fax(417)881-0053
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Jmcada(at)aol.com
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
Subject: 
Re: Carb mounting
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Jmcada(at)aol.com
      
      REPLY TO CHET RAZER   Re: Carb mounting
      
      Chet,
      
      Things might have changed, but RTV and gasoline do not like each other. The
      RTV will swell up, two to three times normal size, and peel of in long thin
      strands. Generally gum up the works.Try taking the RTV and sticking some in a
      cup of gas overnight - see what happens.
      I used to use a product, on race car fuel cells, that I believe was called
      "HYLIMAR", made by Rolls Royce of England. It was blue, sticky. never got
      hard, and never leaked. It may still be around ( or somethingf that does the
      same job). Try a road racing, race car shop. 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 
Re: Rivet gun size
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen 
      
      Thanks Scott.
      After I posted the first question, I took a 1/2" thick piece of ALU and
      set an AN470AD6- rivet in that against a bucking bar laying on the
      floor. Using both hands on the rivet gun it was no problem.
      I then went out and bought a 7.5 lbs piece of steel for a bucking bar. I
      also duct taped a 1 - 2 lbs round bucking bar to the top of the rivit
      gun.  With that I managed to set the rivets in the spar.
      
      Scott Lawson wrote:
      > 
      > --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Lawson" 
      > 
      > It is a 4x gun and CP guns are usually strong hitting.  Two possible
      > solutions.  If you use an in-line oiler or put oil directly into the gun,
      > try using some contact cleaner in it.  They can gum up over time.  If you
      > bought it used it is possible that someone has taken it apart before.  Guns
      > can be tuned for optimum performance by turning the barrel and it may have
      > been put back together without consideration for this.
      
      > > --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen 
      > > I'm having a hard time setting the AN470AD6- rivets. My rivet gun is 
      > > a Chicago Pneumatic CP-4444 AERO S CYL. Is that a 4x gun?  It was 
      > > sold as a 3/16" capacity but...
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
landings-diginews(at)landings.com (LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS)
Subject: 
LANDINGS: Correction/Apology
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: landings-diginews(at)landings.com (LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS)
      
      Greetings,
      
      We would like to offer a correction and an apology to those of you who have
      received the first issue of the LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS with a wrong reply
      address.
      
      The correct reply address should have been landings-diginews(at)landings.com (as specified
      at the end of the mailing).  Instead it appeared as NoReply(at)NoReply.org.
      This was an unintentional, unfortunate error for which we would like to offer
      our most sincere apology.
      
      We hope that you found the content of the LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS of interest and of
      value.
      
      Thanks for your forbearance :-)
      
         LANDINGS.COM (landings(at)landings.com)
      
      P.S
      
      If you received multiple copies of this notice please do the following:
        send email to:  landings-diginews(at)landings.com
        in the body of the email include:  unsub emailaddress
      to add a different address do the following:
        send email to:  landings-diginews(at)landings.com
        in the body of the email include:  subscribe emailaddress
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net>
Subject: 
Re: Prop bolt lock-plate/torque wrench
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner 
      
      >--> RV-List message posted by: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
      >
      >Does anyone know where to buy the prop bolt lock plates? Or do you have to go
      >have one made by a machinist? I'm getting tired of removing my spinner to
      >check bolt torques. Also,  can I use an end wrench extension on a torque
      >wrench so that I don't have to remove the cowling to check the torque? Would
      >this still be reasonably accurate? Thanks.
      
      Van's sells the grooved crush plate.  You may have to buy new bolts.  When I
      was running a wood prop, I removed the top cowl to check torque.  I used a
      "crowfoot (?)"  (a really short extension) on my torque wrench.  My
      Craftsman torque wrench had the formula to use if you use extensions with
      the torque wrench.
      
      Bob Skinner   RV-6  BSkinner(at)navix.net
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
ed loveday <eloveday(at)ici.net>
Subject: 
Re: question on floor
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: ed loveday 
      
      >--> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies 
      >
      >>
      >>>Also in fitting the floor covers under the seats, the ribs are not level.
      >>>It looks like if the floor gets riveted down it will be pulling on the
      >>>flanges or bend the floor panels.  Did anyone else run into this?? 
      >>
      >>I thought they had fixed this, guess not.  On mine all the ribs were
      >>fine except the end ones, which came out approx.  1/8" to 3/16" low.  I
      >>just riveted some shims to the tops of the rib flanges. 
      >>
      >>Randall Henderson, RV-6
      >>randall(at)edt.com
      >>http://www.edt.com/homewing
      >>
      >Randall,
      >
      >I'm delighted that mine will not be the only RV with 1/8 shims on top of the
      >outboard seat rib flanges.
      >
      >Leo Davies
      >
      >leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
      >
      >
        Hi,
      
        When I asked Van about the same problem with mine, he sounded genuinely
      surprised, and agreed that 1/8 shims should be the proper fix. Y'all are'nt
      alone!
      
      Ed Loveday
      eloveday(at)ici.net
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
ed loveday <eloveday(at)ici.net>
Subject: 
Re: Computers on board?
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: ed loveday 
      
      At 11:53 18/06/97 NZT, you wrote:
      >--> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hinch 
      >
      >
      >Without wanting to sound too much like a *complete* nerd, what difficulties 
      >are involved  in integrating a PC into my RV-8 to be?  The potential 
      >application is a custom developed GPS/moving map display/flight mgmt system 
      >connected to a 6" panel mounted active matrix screen driven from a P100 
      >cpu/motherboard (no "essential" functions).
      >
      >Given the assumptions that (1)  the board is mounted in an appropriate 
      >manner regarding cooling, (2) that the hard disk wuld be replaced with a 
      >solid state hard disk (fewer power demands, no moving parts to get upset by 
      >aerobatics), (3) that I can develop robust/stable code (it may not be 
      >pretty, but it *will* be robust) and (4) that I understand it may not be 
      >cost effective to do so, what other hidden traps are there?
      >
      >Will a CPU upset other avionics?  What about a stable power supply? Are 
      >there any regulations that affect my ability to do this?
      >
      >I'll get in first with the "Intel Inside" jokes - maybe I could hide some of 
      >those canopy cracks I've been reading about with one of those little 
      >stickers....
      >
      >Many thanks to the list in advance
      >_______________________________________________________
      >
      >Chris Hinch (RV8 to be - garage being turned into a workshop, buying tools)
      >Management Information Systems
      >Dunedin, Dunedin City Council
      >Internet  : chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
      >
      >
      
        Chris,
          Don't remember just who it was, but someone has been displaying just
      such a rig at Oshkosh for the past 2 years. Still in development, but
      most definitely a panel mount PC. I'll bet I can find a flier around here
      on it if that'll be any help-just let me know & I'll start digging.
      
        Regards,
      Ed Loveday
      RV-6 fuselage - 90%done - 45% to go!
      eloveday(at)ici.net
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
Subject: 
Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crass Commercialism)
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
      
      If anyone is interested, I have made a form for that little joining piece
      (cap) that joins, sits atop the rear skirts and is shaped to clear the canopy
      rail.  I will sell hydraulically formed caps (3"W X 5"L formed of .032" thk
      2024-T4 alclad) for $10 each if you want them.  They are planar for the first
      3.5" and then the center 1"W gradually raises up out of plane in a 3/8" high
      wedge over the last 1.5".  So order now, I'm hoping to retire early and live
      on the profits.
      
      -Gary VanRemortel
      vanremog(at)aol.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
Subject: 
Re: In strument Panel Tilt and Attitude Gyros
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
      
      
      << I talked with an engineer at R. C. Allen this morning who alleges that
      tilt
       correction has the sole purpose of centering the artificial horizon on the 
       miniature "airplane" in the gyro case and has nothing to do with
      reliability. >>
      
      I believe your information to be correct.  I got the same info from both IFR
      and my local gyro tech when I ordered my 10 degree gyro.
      
      Incidentally I've always set the AG in trigears while on the ground just
      before takeoff so that the miniature airplane is centered on the artificial
      horizon.  Is this imprecise and is it considered better form to adjust it in
      the air when you know you're level at cruise?  You guys should have told me
      that I've been doing it wrong all these years.  Oh, the embarassment.....
      
      -GV
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
Subject: 
Alternator modifications, Avionics order
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
      
      Listers,
      
      I ordered most of my panel today.  My wallet is unconscious.  It may 
      have stopped breathing.  Call 911! Thanks to all who shared ideas on 
      gyros for tilted panels, gyro hookups, GPS suggestions, etc.  I 
      appreciate it.
      
      Alternator:  I need a big alternator (60 A) to run my night/IFR
      electrical load.  I have the mounting kit from Van's, which suggests
      a Mazda 323 alternator (65 amps).  That's fine, except it has an
      internal regulator.  Does anybody have any experience to share on
      either disabling internal regulators or finding automotive 
      alternators without internal regualtors?
      
      Thanks,
      
      Tim 
      ---------------------
      Tim Lewis
      RV-6AQ #60023
      San Antonio TX
      timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
      timrv6a(at)iname.com
      -----------------------
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 
Re: Computers on board?
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk" 
      
      John,
      When I bring my Icom near my Gateway P133 I get all kinds of pulse
      interference.  The ANL button (automatic noise limiter) is in the off
      position to get the interference.  The interference is strongest near CRT,
      but it seems to come from both the case and the CRT.  Perhaps the Zeos is
      better shielded than the Gateway.  I'm glad to hear that not all computers
      are as noisy as mine.  It sounds as though Chris will have less of a
      potential problem with RFI than I thought.  Thanks for the good news! Any
      other listers try the handheld test?
      Dennis 
      
      ----------
      > From: John Ammeter <seanet.com!ammeterj(at)matronics.com>
      > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: Re: RV-List: Computers on board?
      > Date: Wednesday, June 18, 1997 4:19 PM
      > 
      > --> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter 
      > 
      > Dennis,
      > 
      > I'm sure you know more than I'll ever know about radios.  That said, I
      just
      > tried exactly what you said.  I took my ICOM handheld (set to 122.775, if
      > that matters) and held it near my P-75 computer.  I got no increase in
      > static and it didn't break squelch when I set the squelch with the radio
      > over 6 feet from the computer.
      > 
      > I've got a full size tower (Zeos) BTW.
      > 
      > John
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
      
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >----------
      > >> From: Chris Hinch <dcc.govt.nz!chris(at)matronics.com>
      > >> To: 'smtp:rv-list(at)matronics.com'
      > >> Subject: RV-List: Computers on board?
      > >> Date: Tuesday, June 17, 1997 5:53 PM
      > >> 
      > >> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hinch 
      > >> 
      > >> 
      > >> 
      > >> Will a CPU upset other avionics?  What about a stable power supply?
      Are 
      > >> there any regulations that affect my ability to do this?
      > >
      > >Chris: A Pentium processor is a pretty good jamming device.  If you have
      a
      > >handheld aircraft band transceiver, turn it on and bring it near an
      > >operating CPU.  If you can get closer than 10 feet without breaking
      squelch
      > >you have an extraordinarily-well shielded computer.  The RFI from the
      CPU
      > >is both radiated and conducted from the source, making shielding
      > >challenging.
      > >You might obtain some application notes from Intel on shielding.  Low
      EMI
      > >(Electromagnetic Interference) enclosures for CPUs are commonplace.
      > >Dennis   (amateur radio N9DP) 6A fuselage
      > >
      > >> Chris Hinch (RV8 to be - garage being turned into a workshop, buying
      > >tools)
      > >> Management Information Systems
      > >> Dunedin, Dunedin City Council
      > >> Internet  : chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
      > >
      > >
      > John Ammeter
      > ammeterj(at)seanet.com
      > 3233 NE 95th St
      > Seattle WA, 98115 USA
      > 206-525-5445
      > RV-6 N16JA
      > First flight August 1990
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net>
Subject: 
Re: Carb mounting
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: chester razer 
      
      aol.com!Jmcada(at)matronics.com wrote:
      > 
      > --> RV-List message posted by: Jmcada(at)aol.com
      > 
      > REPLY TO CHET RAZER   Re: Carb mounting
      > 
      > Chet,
      > 
      > Things might have changed, but RTV and gasoline do not like each other. The
      > RTV will swell up, two to three times normal size, and peel of in long thin
      > strands. Generally gum up the works.Try taking the RTV and sticking some in a
      > cup of gas overnight - see what happens.
      > I used to use a product, on race car fuel cells, that I believe was called
      > "HYLIMAR", made by Rolls Royce of England. It was blue, sticky. never got
      > hard, and never leaked. It may still be around ( or somethingf that does the
      > same job). Try a road racing, race car shop.
      
      
      Thanks for the tip, I'll peel off the Red RTV tomorrow and replace it
      with something that is fuel resistant.
      -- 
      Chet Razer
      crazer(at)egyptian.net
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ian Dadd <gidadd(at)tpgi.com.au>
Subject: 
Elevator travel
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Ian Dadd 
      
      Hi,
      I was lurking, waiting for a concensus on the right method to get 25 =
      degrees down elevator travel when I fell off the RV-List. Back on now =
      and can't access the archive for this info. Notch the Wd405's or the =
      HS603's ?  It won't need to be much in my case - just enough to get =
      about 5-7 degrees. Not only but also: I am making that great pilgramage =
      to Oshkosh and would like to catch up with other RV-Listers.  Is there a =
      quiet bar close handy? See your there.
      Cheers,
      Ian
      RV-6 just finishing off the empennage - opening the wing box!
      Broome West Australia
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 18, 1997
From: 
Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 
Re: Computers on board?
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Elon 
      
      John Ammeter wrote:
      
      I'm sure you know more than I'll ever know about radios.  That said, I just
      > tried exactly what you said.  I took my ICOM handheld (set to 122.775, if
      > that matters) and held it near my P-75 computer.  I got no increase in
      > static and it didn't break squelch when I set the squelch with the radio
      > over 6 feet from the computer.
      
        -------------------------------
      
      I just had to try it too.  Funny thing John, I set my handheld ICOM to 121.5 (If
      there is one 
      frequency that I want to work it's that one) and got blown out of the airwaves.
      
      Specifically, I turned up the squelch to get the background static and then moved
      the antenna 
      near and about my RUNNING 133Mhz computer.  I didn't notice any change in the static.
      I then 
      turned OFF the computer.  WOW! what a change (much less). 
      
      Now try this. I then put the radio antenna right next to the cpu (case cover removed)
      and turned 
      on the switch.  What a blast listening that thing boot-up THROUGH MY RADIO. I could
      almost hear 
      it single-stepping through the boot program. (Just kidding).  However, it did change
      pitch 
      numerous times during the boot process and then settled down to stable background
      noise. I had no 
      idea it produced so much RF.  I don't even want to compute in the nude anymore!
      :-)
        -Elon
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: 
Re: Elevator travel
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies 
      
      Ian,
      
      Notch the HS603s
      
      Leo Davies,
      Sydney
      leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
      Missing Cable Beach already
      
      At 11:46 AM 6/19/97 +-800, you wrote:
      >--> RV-List message posted by: Ian Dadd 
      >
      >Hi,
      >I was lurking, waiting for a concensus on the right method to get 25
      degrees down elevator travel when I fell off the RV-List. Back on now and
      can't access the archive for this info. Notch the Wd405's or the HS603's ?
      It won't need to be much in my case - just enough to get about 5-7 degrees.
      Not only but also: I am making that great pilgramage to Oshkosh and would
      like to catch up with other RV-Listers.  Is there a quiet bar close handy?
      See your there.
      >Cheers,
      >Ian
      >RV-6 just finishing off the empennage - opening the wing box!
      >Broome West Australia
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz>
Subject: 
Re: Computers on board?
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hinch 
      
      
      >position to get the interference.  The interference is strongest near   
      CRT,
      >but it seems to come from both the case and the CRT.  Perhaps the Zeos   
      is
      >better shielded than the Gateway.  I'm glad to hear that not all   
      computers
      >are as noisy as mine.  It sounds as though Chris will have less of a
      >potential problem with RFI than I thought.  Thanks for the good news!
      
      Thanks to the list for all the help to date.  The RF issue was one that I   
      wasn't sure about. My thoughts were sparked by seeing the new Libretto   
      (Toshiba?), which cries out to be the display/computational component of   
      an small GPS/flight management system - or is it just me?  Industrialise   
      and shield the case, split the screen from the body and panel mount it,   
      connect a slimline COM/GPS, spend a few sleepless months writing code and   
      ta-dah! (although I agree that my time would be probably better spent   
      with rivet gun in hand, well, I guess, the tools you know....)
      
      A colleague tells me that active matrix screens are worse than the CPU at   
      screaming RFI, and certain frequencies are worse than others... I guess   
      the only way is to get one airborne, and see what happens. Once again,   
      many thanks to the list for your input.  This is a superb resource for   
      RVers - my apologies for my somewhat off-topic question.
      
      Chris
      chris(at)dcc.govt.nz  
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: 
Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crass Commercialism)
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies 
      
      Anyone building a slider should take Gary up on this offer. It took me a
      weekend and 30 iterations of bending Alclad with a hand seamer to get one I
      could live with and even then I don't like it much.  Would that I had not
      rivited mine on.   Aaaaarrrgghh
      
      Leo Davies
      leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
      
      
      >--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
      >
      >If anyone is interested, I have made a form for that little joining piece
      >(cap) that joins, sits atop the rear skirts and is shaped to clear the canopy
      >rail.  I will sell hydraulically formed caps (3"W X 5"L formed of .032" thk
      >2024-T4 alclad) for $10 each if you want them.  They are planar for the first
      >3.5" and then the center 1"W gradually raises up out of plane in a 3/8" high
      >wedge over the last 1.5".  So order now, I'm hoping to retire early and live
      >on the profits.
      >
      >-Gary VanRemortel
      >vanremog(at)aol.com
      >
      >
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com>
Subject: 
Re: cabin air
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: cfggg 
      
      
      That reversed NACA vent is just an odd shaped submerged outlet. The shaped
      ramp walls are designed for flow going toward the inlet. A straight sided
      ramp (parallel) would probably be more effective and create less drag.
      
      The idea of  venting the cabin is a good one. 
      
      David Fried
      
      
      >        I can't say anything on drag on cabin outflow.  There is a RV-6 I
      >have seen with a NACA airflow unit installed in reverse on the bottom of the
      >fuselage near the tail. If recall correctly it had a door install for
      >control.  It has been a couple of years since I saw it.  At the time he
      >remarked that it greatly improved both heating and cooling, I believe he
      >remarked that his canopy didn't bulge as much in flight.  
      >
      >        If he is on the net maybe he could correct anything I was wrong on.  
      >
      >Has anyone else played with that idea?
      >
      >
      >
      >Have good day!
      >
      >Denny     
      >RV-6/ Fuselage (R)N641DH
      >Lebanon, OR
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Subject: 
Re: Question about washers
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
      
      Stephen J. Soule wrote:
      > 
      > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" 
      > 
      > I only got two of these large washers
      > with my RV-6 kit and used both of them on the left wing.  
      > 
      > Steve Soule
      > Huntington Vermont
      
              They still havn't fixed this problem. I had the same thing on my 
      RV-4. Just call or e-mail Van's and they will send you two more. In 
      fact, there has been several shortages, and too short bolts, and they 
      have sent me what I needed without charge.
      
              Carroll
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: 
Re: Computers on board?
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst 
      
      I have a *little* experience and knowledge of this stuff.
      
      Firstly, a lot of the RF from computers comes from the high-voltage
      circuitry in the CRT screen. If the intereference varies depending on
      what's on the screen, then the screen is the source of the problem. If
      you have an LCD screen, I believe this is a non-issue.
      
      Secondly, a fair amount of the rest comes from the power supply. I think
      that a computer running off its batteries (which are being recharged
      from the 12V DC supply) won't generate much noise from the power supply
      compared to a 220V power supply.
      
      Thirdly, the higher clock speed CPUs generate RF direct from the
      motherboard. However, many of these (and especially on laptops) now run
      on 3V instead of 5V. Maybe they'll be less noisy?
      
      Fourthly, I think good design can remove/reduce the RF. A cheap PC with
      a cheap power supply will be much noisier than a quality machine. Direct
      experience: my old Taiwanese 8088 caused my neighbour across the road to
      complain about how it interfered with his TV. However, this only
      affected one channel (of two). So the RF emitted may be on only a few
      frequencies. In this case, I figured the problem was the PC's power
      supply.
      
      Fifthly, I have used a laptop (IBM Thinkpad 720C) as a moving map and
      logger for my GPS a couple of times in a C172. On neither occasion did I
      notice any adverse effects on the radios (or anything else). However, I
      didn't do much in the way of checking for these adverse effects.
      
      As I said, my knowledge is limited; I'm open to correction. My
      experience is more in terms of software than hardware. 
      
      Frank.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Subject: 
Re: Question about washers
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
      
      Randall Henderson wrote:
      > 
      >
      > You may actually only need one per side.  If you look at dwg 21, detail
      > 'A', you will see it says "AN970-3 2 REQ'D". 
      
      No. You need two per side. One for the aileron hinge mount, and one for 
      the push rod.
      
              Carroll
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Subject: 
Re: Computers on board?
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
      
      Elon wrote:
      > 
      > 
      >  I don't even want to compute in the nude anymore! :-)
      >   -Elon        Do you think clothes will protect you from RF emissions?
      Maybe you should wear lead drawers. :-)
      Carroll
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Subject: 
Re: cabin air
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
      
      law.ua.edu!jcolquit(at)matronics.com wrote:
      > 
      > --> RV-List message posted by: jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu
      > 
      > Tom Martin asked:
      > 
      > >
      > The round alumimum disks are extremely light and readily available -
      > and they fit neatly into an inspection plate so no structure is
      > affected on the aircraft fuselage.
      > 
      > Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt        Where do you get these round aluminum disks?
      How do you get the 
      air in the -4?
      
              Carroll,  RV-4
       Fuselage on the gear.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com>
Subject: 
Re: cabin air
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin 
      
      >--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
      >
      >
      ><< On my RV-4 I have no problem getting air into the cockpit. My question is
      > where does the air go?  
      >
      > On my current project I am at the stage where I could put in some
      > vents in the right location, if there is one,
      >  >>
      >
      >Tom:
      >
      > 
      >
      >Think of it like this: Where is there low pressure? I'm sure the air is at
      >least 'trying' to go there. 
      >
      >Air comes in the front, and presumably out the back. OK, but thow does it get
      >there? On the -4, it would flow around the rear seat back, thru the luggage
      >compartment, and out near the tail. So, where is the low pressure area at the
      >tail? Under the horiz stab, of course. I see many folks with a nice seal
      >under the stab, but this is where I think most of the cabin air exits the
      >fuse. You should put some 1/8" hardware cloth in this area to keep the
      >critters out, tho. You may also want to put an outlet in the rear baggage
      >bulkhead, say 4" dia, and also use hardware cloth here. 
      >
      >I'm not sure the "leakage" around the rudder/v stab is enough. 
      >
      >So, how are you getting the air in? -4 listers would like to know. 
      >
      >Check six!
      >Mark
      
      I agree with what you have said above Mark and it is what I have on my
      current RV-4. The air comes from two tubes hooked up to the back engine baffle.
      I am not sure if the right place to dump the exit air is the rear stab area.
      Check out a real Spitfire. Everything is sealed and all control rods have
      boots. I am sure that they did not want air getting out at the wrong place.
      what about an out let on the fuse bottom as someone suggested?
      
      Tom Martin
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com>
Subject: 
Tailwheel Transition Story
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: RodWoodard 
      
      Hello folks:
      
      I've watched several "nose vs. tailwheel" discussions over the past few
      years. Since I sold my Cherokee and I'm building (slowly) an RV-8, I
      thought it'd be a good idea to get a tailwheel checkout. I really had no
      idea what to expect. Like most people, I'd heard stories ranging from
      ex-B52 flyers who said they soloed some T-craft or whatever in 3 hours to
      others who've told me it took them 20+ hours to transition to tailwheels
      after 1000's of hours in nosedraggers.
      
      For anyone who's interested, here's my story of transitioning: First, my
      statistics: 640 hours total time, private pilot, single engine in August
      1990, instrument in 1997. Most of my time has been in my Cherokee 140
      (approx. 560 hours), with the balance spread out in various Cessnas. Within
      the last year or so I've been flying approximately 10-15 hours per month.
      
      Last August I found a local fish & game pilot who was offering lessons in
      his SuperCub. I flew 2.2 hours with him at that time. He wasn't all that
      wild about renting the Cub after the signoff so I didn't continue the
      lessons with him. Since I sold the Cherokee and was (am) suffering from
      serious airplane withdrawal, I started looking for a local tailwheel
      airplane for rent. I found a Citabria GCBC at a nearby airport. $48/hour
      wet with no club fees or dues. Rental requirement was a checkout with one
      of their instructors. No minimum number of hours or hours in make and model
      required.
      
      I started flying on Wednesday and Sunday each week. I've taken a total of 5
      lessons (approx. 6 hours) and my instructor informed me last night that
      he's going to solo me on Sunday.
      
      To anyone worrying about whether or not to build a tailwheel version of
      whatever RV, let me just offer the following: TAILWHEEL FLYING IS NOT THAT
      DIFFICULT. I am no superpilot and I will transition in less than 10 hours!
      I don't know if this is longer or shorter than usual. I might be setting
      myself up for ridicule admitting that it took me a whole 10 hours, but it
      doesn't really matter to me. I just wanted all of you who are out there
      wondering just what's really involved to hear a real-life recent story of a
      mere mortal pilot transitioning to a tailwheel bird.
      
      Happy flying to everybody.
      
      Rod Woodard
      Loveland, Colorado
      RV-8, #80033 (wings arriving in 3 weeks?!?)
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Kevin Shelton <k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: 
!! Virginia State EAA Regional Fly-In !!
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Shelton 
      
      
      CALLING ALL RV ENTHUSIASTS! Mark your calendars. June 28-29, 1997
      
      Virginia is having its First Annual State Fly-in!!
      
      Virginia State EAA Regional Fly-In sponsored by the Virginia Council of EAA
      chapters, with support from the Virginia Department of Aviation, will take
      place at Petersburg-Dinwiddie Airport (KPTB). Pancake breakfast Sunday
      morning from 8:00 a.m.- 11 a.m.
      Homebuilts, War Birds, Ultralights. Forums, workshops, seminars. Aircraft
      Judging and Awards. Aviation fun for everyone! 
      
      They are really trying to make it the Mid-East coast sun'n fun, but not so
      huge to make it difficult to get in and out.  PTB is ~20nm SSE of Richmond
      (KRIC).  
      
      Lets see a great RV turn-out and have a good time!  Hope to see you there.
      
      More info at http://members.aol.com/N100RV/EAA_Council.html
      
      
      Kevin Shelton   KA4UWE  
      NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton VA
      (757) 864-4470  k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov
      http://members.aol.com/EAA156
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Master & battery relays on Battery Box?
From: 
ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
      
      >I need some input from those of you who have mounted your master and
      >battery relays on the battery box.  It appears that this would make it
      >difficult to remove the battery box and gain access to the battery 
      >without disconnecting cables from the relays.
      >
      >How did you do it?  WHere and how did you run the cable from the 
      >battery to the master relay, and the cable from the starter relay to the
      starter?
      
      
      Hi Dave.  I wondered about that too.  I ended up mounting both relays on
      the firewall (inside) within a few inches of the battery box.  The cables
      enter the side of the box at the front.  These go through thick grommets
      placed in a "U" shaped hole in the box so the box can be pulled rearward
      leaving the cable and it's grommet intact next to the firewall.  If this
      is unclear I can try again.  The master relay is on the right side of the
      box, and the starter relay is on the left side.  The cable from the
      starter relay goes directly from the starter to the relay, eliminating
      any bends or twists inside the firewall.
      
      
      Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
      ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: 
cabin air
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" 
      
      There was a good write-up in Sport Aviation about high and low 
      pressure mapping of Steve Barnard's RV last month.  It might reveal 
      the location of high and low pressure areas on your RV-4's.
      
      Steve Soule
      Huntington, Vermont
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Carb mounting
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss 
      
      Chet,
      I'm not the "spelling police" but it might be easier to find the product
      refered to below if you know that it's called HYLOMAR. Locktite makes it
      under licinse from Rolls Royce. I get it at my local auto parts store. i
      think it's a great product too. One advantage it has over other sealers
      is that if you are sealing a surface that has an oil or cooling
      passageway going through it, there is no chance of plugging the
      passageway up if you use too much Hylomar near it. Since it never
      becomes totally hard, any excess which blocks the passageway (like an
      oil galley/return) will be pushed through by the passing fluid. Gasoline
      definitely desolves RTV.
      
      Charlie Kuss
      RV-8 tail kit came yesterday
      
      REPLY TO CHET RAZER   Re: Carb mounting
       
      Chet,
       
      Things might have changed, but RTV and gasoline do not like each other. 
      I used to use a product, on race car fuel cells, that I believe was
      called
      "HYLIMAR", made by Rolls Royce of England.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
dougm(at)mailhost.physio-control.com (Doug Medema)
Subject: 
Part numbers
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: dougm(at)mailhost.physio-control.com (Doug Medema)
      
      I need a favor:  I can't find my dang optional parts
      catalog and want to order a couple of things.
      
      Specifically: Could someone email me with the part
      numbers (and listed price) for the left and right steps?
      
      Thanks in advance.
      
      Doug Medema  email: dougm@physio-control.com
      -6A, skinning the fuselage.
      
      P.S.  Sure would be nice if VANS would get the whole
            parts catalog on their web page.  Hint, Hint!
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: LED Dimmer
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss 
      
      Mark,
      A very simple way to accomplish this would be to tie all the ground
      leads of your LED's together. Run one common wire to a rheostat. Run
      another wire from the rheostat to ground. This is how the dome light
      circuit on your car works. 
      Most circuits have constant ground and a switched power source. This
      circuit merely installs a variable resistor (rheostat) into the path
      from the LED's to ground. Mercedes Benz, Honda and others use seperate
      instrument panel dimmer switches (rheostats). One of these would work
      great.
      
      Charlie Kuss
      RV-8 tail kit came yesterday 
      
      
      Mark S. Malone wrote:
      snipped
      > I need some help from the electronics gurus.  I'm putting .125" LED's
      > above each switch on my panel.  The LED will light when the switch is
      > energizes the equipment, i.e., pitot heat, nav lights, strobe lights,
      > etc.  I would like to be able to dim the LED's with a single dimmer.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 
Master & battery relays on Battery Box?
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell L. Anderson" 
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner 
      -Snip-
      The two relays are mounted side by side with the terminals verticlely.  
      -Snip-
      
      I seem to remember reading somewhere that relays should be
      mounted with the terminals horizontal, so that the solenoid
      armature would not drag in the coil due to gravity. 
      Can anybody help on this.
      
      Vertical will probably work...for a while.
      
      D. Anderson
      RV-4 (wings)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 
Re: Tailwheel Transition Story
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker 
      
      >To anyone worrying about whether or not to build a tailwheel version of
      >whatever RV, let me just offer the following: TAILWHEEL FLYING IS NOT THAT
      >DIFFICULT.
      >
      >Rod Woodard
      
      Thanks Ron!
      
      Now I won't feel so bad when I look at my tailspring.  It regularly taunts
      me with "think you can handle it Mr. Nosegear?" type jabs...but no more .
      
      Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil>
Subject: 
Re: cabin air
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills 
      
      Its my understanding that the ideal place for an outlet is in a low pressure
      turbulent flow point on the airframe. The intent is to allow the low
      pressure to help draw the air out. If placed correctly the exit can be
      smaller ofr the same amount of airflow. Typically the bottom of the fuse is
      a high pressure point.
       In fact according to theory (as told by far more knowledgeable people than
      me) the cooling system used on our RV's is all wrong and is a concession to
      aesthetics. Air should enter at the bottom of the cowl, flow up through the
      engine baffling, and out at the top or sides of the cowl. Look at the AR-5
      or Rutan's Boomerang and see how the exits were done. Tony B. also has some
      examples in one of his books.
      
      Mike Wills
      RV-4 (wings)
      willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
      
      
      >boots. I am sure that they did not want air getting out at the wrong place.
      >what about an out let on the fuse bottom as someone suggested?
      >
      >Tom Martin
      >
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jun 19, 1997
From: 
mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler)
Subject: 
Re: LANDINGS: Correction/Apology
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler)
      
      > We would like to offer a correction and an apology to those of you 
      > who have received the first issue of the LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS with a 
      > wrong reply address. 
      >  
      > The correct reply address should have been landings-diginews@
      > landings.com (as specified at the end of the mailing).  Instead 
      > it appeared as NoReply(at)NoReply.org.  This was an 
      > unintentional, unfortunate error for which we would like to offer our 
      > most sincere apology. 
      >  
      > We hope that you found the content of the LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS of 
      > interest and of value. 
      >  
      > Thanks for your forbearance :-) 
      
      So basically you're telling us that you used the RV list to generate a mailing
      
      list that you used for the spam I received this morning?  Yeah, I got two 
      copies of the message that claimed to contain news (And may have) but 
      consisted mainly of teasers to make people go to your web site to read the 
      rest of the articles.
      
      Even if your spirit is pure, spam is wrong, and using the RV-List to gather 
      addresses is personally offensive to me.
      
      AND you patronized the creators of spam-generating software, designed to forge
      
      headers and duck resposibility for messages (NoReply.org).  You gave money to 
      the lowest of the low, the people who are ruining the net for everyone.
      
      I remember seeing your site ages ago and commenting about some bad HTML 
      practices, like the nearly 500 character title you had in the