RV-Archive.digest.vol-db
June 26, 1997 - July 06, 1997
> +--
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat Resistance |
> >> The spec sheet for the 12-volt AN5812 I installed this weekend claims 4.5
> >> amps. So, should I size up the wire & breaker for 5 or 10 amps?
If you have a Digital Volt/Ohms meter, many of them have a circuit that
allows it to act as an ammeter. Mine is good for 10A or less. Hook up
the unit to a battery, drawing the current through the meter, and you
will know the actual rate for your unit, plus any additional draw at
startup.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Lott <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
Are any surfaces more critical than another? thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
Well the bad news is in, the camshaft in my RV-4 engine is toast!
The engine is being removed from the plane for a complete rebuild, including
new valves.
Interesting to note that the valve stem ended up falling down throught the
fuel controller and was in the air filter air box.
Thank you to all who responded. The problem is nothing that money won,t
fix,(sigh)
If I had to go down I am glad that it was with an engine out and not a bird
strike!
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LV light- Bob Nuckolls |
Bob:
I'm looking at your drawing Z-6, and I can't figure out where the other end
of the LV warning light hooks up. Can you bail me (and my customer) out on
this one?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
Hi all,
I just received my plastic duct for wing wiring from Van's, and wonder
if there is a source for snap bushings to protect the duct as it passes
through the wing ribs. The OD of the duct is about 0.8" and the
largest snap bushings from Van's have an ID of 5/8". Nothing in Wicks
or Spruce.
Thanks,
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121, left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ANR - Headsets Inc... |
Does any one know if Headsets Inc. adapter will work in the Flightcom Eclipse
headset?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR - Headsets Inc... |
Doug,
So back to the original question, what will this system do to the bass
notes from a music source that is sent to the headset? The answer should be
that it usually has no effect.
Did the owner explain how his system works? Typical active cancellation
schemes that I am familiar with rely on taking a sample of the offending
signal and inverting its phase to provide a cancelling signal. The desired
signal is never considered and never effected unless its frequency matches
that of the offending signal. In this case the desired signal may be
partially cancelled or it may be enhanced, depending on its phase
relationship to the offending and cancelling signals. I should point out
that my experience is with rf cancellation, not audio, but principle is the
same.
So if the Headsets Inc. system doesnt sample the input signal, and strip
out the offending signal, what is the source of the cancellation signal that
makes the whole thing work?
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>The Bose does compare the input stream so as to not block it out, The ANR
>kit from Headsets Inc. does not, That is what you get for your addition
>$850.00. That was from the owner of Headsets Inc.
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal RV-4 N240
>dougr(at)netins.net
>http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rudder Skeleton |
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
>
> <71341.3505(at)CompuServe.COM>
>
> The instructions for building the rudder skeleton says to bolt the
> R-405PD
> rudder horn in place and slide the R-803 rib in place. The rib does
> not have a
> slot cut to allow it past the bolt. Simply drilling a hole will be
> very close
> to the edge so I assume I need to cut a slot. Any suggestions or
> limitations I
> should know about before I cut this slot?
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> N733JJ
>
Scott, hi
I think you must mean the R-404 rib, the R-803 is the one on the top end
of the rudder. Anyway, I just cut a slot in mine. Edge distance
doesn't apply in this case because the rib flange is sandwiched between
the heavy R-405PD and R-606PP. (Oh, and make sure you put that 0.032
spacer in below the rib flange).
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacquelyn eastburn" <jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rudder Skeleton |
Scott. your right. you do need to cut a slot to clear the bolt. a had to
ask about this also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Wheel Cylinders |
Carroll,
Both sets of Cleveland brakes and wheels that I've received with my two kits
have all had bleeder valves already installed in the side opposite the brake
pressure line ports which come with plastic plugs installed. If yours do not
have the bleeder valves installed, I would query Van's, if you got them with
the kit.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/canopy stuff
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of TTC Carroll A. Bird
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 1997 6:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Wheel Cylinders
This is probably a silly question but my Cleveland wheel
cylinders has a little red plug on the bottom side. What do I put in
this hole? I think there are fittings which you can use to fill the
brake system from the bottom up to the top, which purges the air as it
fills. If this is true, where do I get them, and what are they called.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Carroll, RV-4 on gear. Hanging engine soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
What does it mean, "The ailerons are dynamically balanced and need no
further balancing." ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com wrote:
>
> Jim/Phil,
>
> Am I correct in that overbalancing is fine as far as safety is
> concerned? I thought I read that somewhere... Is there something on
> the topic that I can read, in layman's terms?
>
> EB
>
Eric, hi
Control surfaces are balanced to prevent flutter. When there is a
disturbance, the counterbalance mass in front of the hinge line prevents
the control surface from defecting on it's own because of its inertia.
Otherwise the oscillations can increase in amplitude until something
breaks.
On the RV-8 the ailerons are overbalanced by a large margin. Even with
the electric aileron trim, the left one is still slightly overbalanced.
This is not a problem because the ailerons are connected by rigid
control tubes, and in a bump the forces cancel each other out (unless it
is a very local one affecting only one wing).
The elevator is a different situation because if it was overbalanced too
much, the pilot would feel it very strongly in the stick. It wouldn't
be as dangerous, just very unpleasant - kinda like driving a car with
worn out shocks. The elevator needs to be balanced carefully AFTER
painting.
The rudder on the -8 has a counterbalance also, but it does not totally
balance the rudder, it was added along with a larger vertical stabilizer
to improve the yaw stability. Anyway, most gusts and thermals act in
the vertical direction, also the mass of the feet and legs on the rudder
pedals help damp out rudder oscillations.
Are you still going to Longmont?
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros |
<< Is the important thing the angle between the panel and the
horizon in level flight or is it the difference on the ground (for erection
purposes)? >>
This is referred to more correctly as the "angle of the dangle"?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
It would be nice to hear an aero engineer comment on this but my memory of a
discussion with such was that you don't have to have critical balance. If a
control surface is "over-balanced" ie has mass in front of the hinge point
this provides protection from flutter. It is better to err on this side of
the balance equation and accept the small weight penalty.
Open to correction.
Leo Davies
>
>>Both of my elevators are still overbalanced and waiting on the finish
>>paint before I put the precision balance on 'em....
>
>This was tossed around a while back and I can't get into the archives
>(Matt?) to find out what the final word was but as I remember, the ailerons
>are dynamically (?) balanced and need no further attention. But, as Mark's
>original question asked: what do you do with the ELEVATORS? I have never
>seen any description on how the elevators are balanced. Instructions are to
>"balance them". It seems hard to get the left to balance accurately with
>the trim cable in there. Those who will fly before painting will have to
>rebalance their elevators after painting.....but how is it done?? I believe
>that is your question, right Mark?
>
>I hung them on the horizontal and played with the weights until they
>were......well......balanced, staying put when moved, neither up nor down.
>That left one was the hardest as the resistance of the cable made it more
>difficult. I also "over balanced" them forward, waiting until paint to fine
>tune them.
>
>Michael
>
>
>
>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Snap Bushings |
ix.netcom.com!spjohnsn(at)matronics.com wrote:
> Johnson)
>
> Hi all,
>
> I just received my plastic duct for wing wiring from Van's, and wonder
>
> if there is a source for snap bushings to protect the duct as it
> passes
> through the wing ribs. The OD of the duct is about 0.8" and the
> largest snap bushings from Van's have an ID of 5/8". Nothing in Wicks
>
> or Spruce.
Someone suggested to me to get 2 feet of the next size up tubing (in
your case, with an I.D. of 0.8"). A half-inch or so of this, attached
(but how?) either side of the hole in the rib would support the duct
tube.
Personally, I don't think this will be necessary. Some RTV to stop the
duct moving within the hole in the rib should be enough, I believe. But
then, I'm using fairly tough PVC piping. And anyway, what do I know?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
Am moving and would like to sell complete set of Avery tools-only used for
half of RV tail construction. Perfect for new builder.
Please call and leave message @ 413-786-2470. I can fax lists with part
numbers and descriptions.
Send No E-mail since I won't be on line past Friday 6/27. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Snap Bushings |
Stephen Paul Johnson wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I just received my plastic duct for wing wiring from Van's, and wonder
> if there is a source for snap bushings to protect the duct as it passes
> through the wing ribs. The OD of the duct is about 0.8" and the
> largest snap bushings from Van's have an ID of 5/8". Nothing in Wicks
> or Spruce.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 #80121, left wing
>
I was just down at the local Ace Hardware store this afternoon, and they
had a complete collection of snap bushings. I thought to myself,"Hey,
these are just like the ones Van's sent me! and all different sizes!".
You might give 'em a try.
Mark LaBoyteaux
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
snip
> I hung them on the horizontal and played with the weights until they
> were......well......balanced, staying put when moved, neither up nor down.
> That left one was the hardest as the resistance of the cable made it more
> difficult. I also "over balanced" them forward, waiting until paint to fine
> tune them.
>
> Michael
Michael,
I tried to balance my left elevator with the trim cable installed, but
like you, I found that the tension from the cable caused the elevator to
want to stay in a neutral position unless I put a lot of weight on the
balance arm. So I removed the cable and found that with the weights I
bought from Van's installed, the left elevator was just slightly
overbalanced. I'm wondering if it will be enough to balance after it's
painted. Only time will tell, I figure if it comes up underbalanced I
can always mix up an epoxy-lead shot mixture to bring it in.
Mark LaBoyteaux
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
Hey Rod,
I'm an RV-6 builder and I live 15 miles south of SFO and 9 miles from
Hayward. I've got a buddy who's built a Starduster Two (fabric and tube)=
and is an A&P. I'll ask him if he's interested in your offer.
Bob Fritz
415/573-5258
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Snap Bushings |
<33B359A3.14E1(at)ix.netcom.com>
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
Hi all,
Ace Hardware??? That's were I got the 50 watt 2 inch diameter landing
lights.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
writes:
>I was just down at the local Ace Hardware store this afternoon, and
>they
>had a complete collection of snap bushings. I thought to myself,"Hey,
>these are just like the ones Van's sent me! and all different sizes!".
>You might give 'em a try.
>
>Mark LaBoyteaux
>tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | SFO Help Update-Smith Miniplane |
Hello fellow listers:
Thanks to all of you who responded to offer suggestions and advice re: my
potential purchase of a Smith Miniplane near San Francisco. Thanks
especially to Doug Rozendaal who was able to put me in contact with a
friend of his who inspected the plane last year. After talking with Doug's
friend in Iowa, I found that I'm dealing with a rather dishonest person.
Apparently the guy switched a bunch of parts off the plane while Doug's
friend was enroute to pick it up, trailer in tow, from Iowa. Not only was
the plane not as represented but it was basically stripped down to nothing
when Doug's friend arrived. They also found that the upper wing spar was
broken. I hear that can be hazardous to one's health.... And I'm not even
the surgeon general...
Sure is a small world out there. :-) I have a feeling there will be a
rather surprised aircraft broker tomorrow morning after I get done telling
him what I found out about his little gem. Buyer beware!
The search continues...
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | More on Instrument Panel Tilt and Gyros |
Having watched the gyro tilt thread for a few days I looked through my
aviation books and could find little on AH gyro tilt. Here is the only
paragraph I found in a Aircraft Instrument Systems booklet.
(Re: air driven artificial horizon) - "The gyro remains upright with the
earths gravity because of the erection mechanism, and in a turn the
acceleration force on the pendulum valves gives a false indication of a
tilt; so when the airplane rolls out of the turn there will be an
indication of pitch--the direction depends on the direction of turn.
Most instruments compensate for this by tilting the gyro housing slightly=
".
I would assume that on modern instruments this is a internal adjustment o=
r
mod and if not adjusted for the proper panel angle the AH will have
slightly more error when rolling out of a turn. Pitch errors are greatest=
during shallow banks and after 180 degrees of a turn.
George McNutt 6A Rudder. =
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | morristec(at)ICDC.COM |
Tom,
I don't have your original post but I believe that you mentioned
something about a series of runs at 2900 RPM. The typical IO360 has a
redline at 2700 RPM (yours). If that was the case
consider this. The Helicopter versions of the IO360 are designed to turn
up to 3100 RPM. They have special intake and exhaust valves, and they still
experience a relatively high failure rate, including CAM failures. Maybe your
valves were reused, but I'd bet that 2900 RPM operation may have been a
contributing factor.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
RV>Well the bad news is in, the camshaft in my RV-4 engine is toast!
RV>The engine is being removed from the plane for a complete rebuild, including
RV>new valves.
RV>Interesting to note that the valve stem ended up falling down throught the
RV>fuel controller and was in the air filter air box.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Wheel Cylinders |
les williams wrote:
>
>
> If yours do not
> have the bleeder valves installed, I would query Van's, if you got them with
> the kit.
>
> Les Williams/RV-6AQ/canopy stuff
>
> Thanks in advance for any info.
>
> Carroll, RV-4 on gear. Hanging engine soon.
>
> Thanks to all for the info. There was really not anything wrong.
I simply thought that the bleeders was a straight tube fitting . I had
the wheel cylinders on upside down . I switched them last night.
BTW how do the bleeders work? What sort of a pump or tool do you use to
put in the brake fluid.
Thanks again.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Snap Bushings |
<< wonder
if there is a source for snap bushings to protect the duct as it passes
through the wing ribs. The OD of the duct is about 0.8" and the
largest snap bushings from Van's have an ID of 5/8". Nothing in Wicks
or Spruce. >>
These items are maufactured by Heyco and can be had thru most industrial
fastener suppliers in your area. I know that Olander in Sunnyvale, CA (check
the Yeller Pages for the ph#) carries them in all sizes from 1/8" ID up thru
3" or so. They are dirt cheap.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Snap Bushings |
The following question was posed:
> I just received my plastic duct for wing wiring from Van's, and wonder
> if there is a source for snap bushings to protect the duct as it passes
> through the wing ribs. The OD of the duct is about 0.8" and the
> largest snap bushings from Van's have an ID of 5/8". Nothing in Wicks
> or Spruce.
Let's not lose the big picture here. The purpose of the conduit is to
protect the wires and provide a little more support than snap bushings
alone. You don't need to protect the conduit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros |
> >
> >
> >This has been said before but I will say it again as there still
> seems
> >to be allot of questions on this topic. The ONLY reason you need
> >the eight degree tilt is so the little adjustable airplane that moves
> up
> >and down can be lined up with the horizon line. When you fly in
> >level flight and the instrument is tilted this moves your horizon
> >indicator line up.
> >
> I'm getting more and more confused on this topic. Does anyone have an
> authoritative source? I had always heard tilt was only needed in
> taildraggers. My Pacer has an eight degree tilted artificial horizon
> that
> works fine. Is the important thing the angle between the panel and
> the
> horizon in level flight or is it the difference on the ground (for
> erection
> purposes)?
>
> Usually there is a real expert on any topic brought up on the list but
> I'm
> not getting that impression on this one. If someone knows, please
> explain.
> I don't readily accept unsupported assertions.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
> Pacer N8025D
> RV-6QME N441LP Fuselage Skins
>
Well Larry
Sorry I'm not a *real* expert and I can understand you not
accepting *unsupported assertions* but the attitude indicator
can't tell if it is a taildragger or nose gear in the air. The
tilt of the panel in the RV-6 in level flight, which in turn
tilts the AI, tricks the the gyros into thinking you are in a
climb which makes the horizon line read high in level flight,
then you have to move the adjustable airplane up to match the
horizon bar to indicate level flight. I don't have the 8 degree
tilt built into my attitude indicator and have to fly with the
little airplane adjusted all of the way to the top, not a problem,
just a little inconvenience.
BTW I have over 2000 hrs in a Pacer does that make me a *little*
bit of a expert at least on Pacers?
----
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-)
Comm-SEL-MEL-Inst.-CFI
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
For anyone currently flying with a piper pitot on an RV, did you hook your
static system up to the static port on your pitot, or did you use the static
port in the side of the fuse as most do, or??? Have you been able to verify
accuracy of indicated airspeed?
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: LV light- Bob Nuckolls |
>I'm looking at your drawing Z-6, and I can't figure out where the other end
>of the LV warning light hooks up.
Bob:
Was there a post on drawings for a low-voltage warning light?? I didn't get
it. Please repost if there was one (or send it off-list).
Thanks'
Michael
mikel(at)dimensional.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Fellow RVers,
It looks like the weather is going to great, so I'm off to the Longmont
Fly-in. I hope to meet some "listers", there, and talk RVs. A RV-8 builder
offered to put me up for a couple of nights. Thanks, Rod----here come the
Nebraska steaks!
My RV-6 is white with a yellow "wedge" down the side and a yellow rudder,
N369X.
Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
>
>Are any surfaces more critical than another? thanks
>
>
>
If I remember correctly from past aero. eng. classes, the elevators are the
most critical. Flutter is much more critical in high speed aircraft (ie:
high mach). At Embry-Riddle, we were shown a slow motion video of flutter
in a wind tunnel. It was an F-16 type tail. The structure oscillated at 10
Hz and had a catastrophic structural failure within three cycle. In other
words, the empenage departed the aircraft within 1/3 of a second!!!
To err on the side of safety would be to over balance the control surface.
That would mean adding lead all the way back in the tail. My elevators are
over-balanced now and after paint the additional lead will be drilled out,
resulting in a perfectly balanced control surface.
Bottom line is we're not building BD-10's. A slight over balance will not
hurt anything but the empty weight and CG. I doubt that a slight under
balance will really hurt either. Doesn't the RV-3 lack balanced control
surfaces and they operate at "typical RV speeds" without encountering flutter.
Just my $.02
Scott Gesele N506RV (Just starting to get the hang of this painting thing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | Re: Snap Bushings |
> posted by: "David Moore"
>
>
>Let's not lose the big picture here. The purpose of the conduit is to
>protect the wires and provide a little more support than snap bushings
>alone. You don't need to protect the conduit.
>
Thanks for the advice. The more I think about it, the more I think I
would like to remove as little metal as possible from the ribs. There
isn't much extra there to begin with. If I attach the conduit to the
ribs with RTV, there won't be motion between the rib and conduit to
cause abrasive wear.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | RV-6 or 6A Slider specific roll bar brace question??? |
Hi,
I put a lot of work into attaching the stainless steel brace tube with no
thought whatever that Van's might have sent one that is too long.
Mine will come thru the skin right at the sub panel (the first bulkhead after
the firewall) and I am afraid that might interfere with the windshield. Or does
the windshield contact skin in front of the sub-panel??
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear fitting panel
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros - why not vertical panel? |
Hi all,
I'm serious here - why not make my panel vertical - zero tilt?
I'm fitting it now and last night I tried setting it straight and level and I
see no problem. If it is tilted fwd at top, won't I see more sky reflections?
Maybe it is so I can keep up the scan & still see the lightning?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
| Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros |
>
>> >
>> >
snips
>the attitude indicator
>can't tell if it is a taildragger or nose gear in the air. The
>tilt of the panel in the RV-6 in level flight, which in turn
>tilts the AI, tricks the the gyros into thinking you are in a
>climb which makes the horizon line read high in level flight,
>then you have to move the adjustable airplane up to match the
>horizon bar to indicate level flight. I don't have the 8 degree
>tilt built into my attitude indicator and have to fly with the
>little airplane adjusted all of the way to the top, not a problem,
>just a little inconvenience.
>BTW I have over 2000 hrs in a Pacer does that make me a *little*
>bit of a expert at least on Pacers?
>----
Ok, Jerry, I think I'm starting to grasp this.
The RV panel is tilted forward with respect to the horizon when in level
flight. This means the gyro thinks we are in a "dive" (horizon above the
little airplane) so you have to move the little airplane up to make it even
with the horizon. I think your statement about the gyro thinking we are in
a climb is a misprint. Doesn't matter if taildragger or not. I think
having heard that taildragger business years ago is what fouled up my
thinking. Our prejudices are hard to ignore sometimes.
I'll accept you as an expert, especially on Pacers. The only bad thing
about finishing my RV-6 will be having to sell the Pacer. What a nice
airplane (as you know, being a Pacer expert).
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6QME N441LP Fuselage Skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
<< wonder
if there is a source for snap bushings to protect the duct as it passes
through the wing ribs. The OD of the duct is about 0.8" and the
largest snap bushings from Van's have an ID of 5/8". Nothing in Wicks
or Spruce. >>
I think Van's says to just cut all the ribs except the
ones on the ends of the duct to the major diameter, and
the end ribs to the minor diameter, then snap the ends
of the duct into the end holes to anchor them. The convoluted
duct takes the place of the snap bushings.
There might be some chance of the ribs vibrating and chafing
the duct, but a dab of RTV or ProSeal would stop that.
I installed mine using a UniBit to cut the holes before the
ribs were permanently installed, but they could be cut with
the UniBit in an angle drive drill. I used a template to
locate the holes in the upper forward corner of the aft ribs
where it would clear the aileron pushrod and bellcrank, and
not block the aileron access panel.
Use a vacuum cleaner to suck a thread through the tube, then
pull your wire AND another string through. If you always pull
a string with the wire, you will always have a means of pulling
another wire through if needed.
...it worked for me.
D. Anderson
RV-4 (ready to close wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | RV Picnic at Arlington Airfair |
The Arlington Airfair at Arlington, WA (USA) will be held from July 9 to 13.
This airport is the home of the world famous 'Blackjack Squadron'. As most
of you know, the Blackjack Squadron is an informal group of local RV flyers
that enjoy close formation airwork. They fly RV-4's and RV-6's with a wide
range of engines and props.
The Puget Sound RVators are again hosting a BBQ picnic on Saturday starting
at noon in the RV aircraft parking area. Last year we served over 180
hamburgers and 50 pounds of salmon to well over 150 hungry RV'ers and
guests. We also provide much needed shade and lots of lawn chairs along
with refreshments to RV'ers during the rest of the Airfair.
I have tickets available for our guests at the 'air-arrival' rate. For
$10.00 you can purchase a ticket good for all week or, if you're only coming
for Saturday, you need only pay $5.00. If you're interested in purchasing
these tickets please send me a check (made out to me) at the address below.
Include a stamped self-addressed envelope and be certain to indicate what
ticket('s) you want. BTW, children 15 and under are free if accompanied by
an adult.
If you're flying in there is no reason to pre-purchase your tickets; you'll
get the same price 'at the gate'. This 'deal' only benefits those who are
driving in to the Airfair.
Hope to see many of you there. Stop by to talk to me; I'll be the one
flipping burgers.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
Aa piper pitot on an RV, did you hook your
>static system up to the static port on your pitot, or did you use the static
>port in the side of the fuse as most do, or??? Have you been able to verify
>accuracy of indicated airspeed?
>Mike Wills
For what it's worth, I had the piper blade on my 6. I used the static port
on it. The most accurate readings I could get was within about 2 mph (
using the old AF method of an E6B along with the GPS check), which I thought
was pretty close for government work. I mounted it in the same location as
Vans called for the original tube.
Don't sweat it.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros - why not vertical panel? |
>
>Hi all,
>
>I'm serious here - why not make my panel vertical - zero tilt?
>
>I'm fitting it now and last night I tried setting it straight and level and I
>see no problem. If it is tilted fwd at top, won't I see more sky
reflections?
>Maybe it is so I can keep up the scan & still see the lightning?
Just what I'm wondering, Hal. I won't be fitting for at least a couple
weeks (depends on the honey-do list). I was wondering if it had to be aft
or lowered a bit forward skin angle.
Have a Good Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
Ok, I'm breaking a carnal rule and am wearing a flame retardant shirt, but
can someone recommend a good NON HVLP spray gun and a place where it can be
purchased from. I understand that Binks makes quality equipment and would
like to find a mail order house that carries it or an equivalent.
I've been attempting to paint the exterior with various HVLP guns and am
getting orange peel and runs. Tonight I touched up a primed area (always
have to sand the primer due to orange peel) with a non HVLP gun and the
finish was smooth as silk. I've wrestled with the HVLP long enough, it's
time to finish this thing. I'll admit it, the HVLP beat me and it's time to
go with what I'm comfortable with. The entire inside was primed and the
cockpit painted with a conventional gun with very good results. Any help on
a locating a gun that will do a good job on the exterior will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Scott Gesele N506RV (Will I ever finish painting this plane?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing Kit Bulkhead |
Eric Barnes wrote, quite correctly:
Shortlisters:
An FYI note regarding the instructions for the RV-8 kit--
The instructions call for beginning your wing by assembling the
fuselage
bulkhead where the wings attach. I dutifully began that process,
only
to stop short when I couldn't find the specified .040" sheet stock
from
which to make the shim. A call to Van's solved the problem. I was
told
that the .040" material is supplied with the fuselage kit. He
advised
me to "forget what the plans say" and just build my wings!
So, when you get your wing kit, forget everything about building the
bulkhead first, and start with the rear spar.
I hope this saves somebody some frustration.
--Don McNamara
#80113
On the other hand, I plunged ahead with mine, fabricating the shims
from double thicknesses of .020" scrap. Worked fine. After I did
that, I found two pieces of .040" stock cut to the correct size in
one of the envelopes. Now ready for the shims on the bulkhead of my
second RV-8. BFirst bulkhead is done, in the attic and waiting.
I'll be able to use it in a year or two.
George
RV-8 #80006 Left wing fuel tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Smart Pro Level Instructions |
I have misplaced my instruction book for my Smart Pro Level. I would
appreciate if someone would send me a private message with the 8-step
sequence for the "super" calibration. I would also appreciate the 800
number of the manufacturer so I can call to get another instruction book.
I am trying to measure the gear leg symmetry right/left and am not sure I
have the gadget calibrated properly. I don't have this calibration problem
with my bubble level! Danged digital devices!
Thanks.
Dennis drilling gear mounts for 6A using false spar method
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Tools for sale |
| From: | HARRY PAINE <HPair(at)thegrid.net> |
-- [ From: HARRY PAINE * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
------- FORWARD, Original message follows -------
From: HARRY PAINE \ Internet: (hpair(at)thegrid.net)
------ TOOL LIST FOR SALE
Harry Paine
477 printz rd
Arroyo Grande Cal 93420
805-481-2524
90% angle drills 1/4 28 thread rebuilt--rockwell------- -----------225.00*
45% angle drills 1/4 28 thread rebuilt -rockwell ---- ----------- 225.00*
*
Flush Rivet set with rubber guard extra wide 1 1/4 " wide much nicer than
Averys. This is the best I've even seen while they last $10.00
# 8 nut plate jig ..............................................
..........12.00
15 mil thick 3M Alum sound damping tape (used on 767) 9" wide not
available anywhere else other than 3M Sold by linear foot minimum 10' order
1.00/ln. ft.
All Items tools guaranteed 30 days or your money back. Items sold and
shipped UPS COD Cash or certified check.
** Limited Availability sold on a first come first serve basis.
Email Harry Paine @
Hpair(at)thegrid.net
call 805-481-2524 & leave message
-------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
I painted a motorcycle with a Craftsman air spray gun. Turned out fine.
I also sprayed the inside of my RV with Imron paint with that same gun; had
a few runs but I think that, with practice, I could have mastered the gun
and done a good job.
FWIW,
John
>
>Ok, I'm breaking a carnal rule and am wearing a flame retardant shirt, but
>can someone recommend a good NON HVLP spray gun and a place where it can be
>purchased from. I understand that Binks makes quality equipment and would
>like to find a mail order house that carries it or an equivalent.
>
>I've been attempting to paint the exterior with various HVLP guns and am
>getting orange peel and runs. Tonight I touched up a primed area (always
>have to sand the primer due to orange peel) with a non HVLP gun and the
>finish was smooth as silk. I've wrestled with the HVLP long enough, it's
>time to finish this thing. I'll admit it, the HVLP beat me and it's time to
>go with what I'm comfortable with. The entire inside was primed and the
>cockpit painted with a conventional gun with very good results. Any help on
>a locating a gun that will do a good job on the exterior will be appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Scott Gesele N506RV (Will I ever finish painting this plane?)
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<< (Snip) Doesn't the RV-3 lack balanced control surfaces and they operate at
"typical RV speeds" without encountering flutter.
Just my $.02
Scott Gesele N506RV >>
Hi All,
The RV-3 has balanced ailerons, but neither the elevator or rudder are
balanced.
It also has a 210 mph Vne.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros |
Larry Pardue wrote:
> **snip**
> I think your statement about the gyro thinking we
> are in a climb is a misprint.
> I'll accept you as an expert, especially on Pacers. The only bad
> thing about finishing my RV-6 will be having to sell the Pacer. What a nice
> airplane (as you know, being a Pacer expert).
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
> Pacer N8025D
> RV-6QME N441LP Fuselage Skins
>
You are right Larry I should have said in a dive instead of in a climb.
I know what you mean about having to selling your Pacer I loved flying
that
airplane I had a lot of fun with it before selling it to build my RV-6.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake Wheel Cylinders |
<< BTW how do the bleeders work? What sort of a pump or tool do you use to
put in the brake fluid.
Thanks again.
Carroll >>
Hi Carroll and all,
I use a pump oil can with a piece of hobby shop fuel line. I fill the brake
reservoir from the brake cylinder.
Of course I planned it this way, I ran a 1/16" vent line out of each
reservoir (mounted on the master cylinder on the rudder pedals). When the
reservoir is full, it vents onto a strategically placed rag on the hangar
floor.
I have a pressure vent for the fuel tanks, a static vent for the brake
reservoirs, and a static vent for the three-in-one case; all in a 2" long 1"
tall CNC machined NACA 64-012 aluminum airfoil on the centerline of the
fuselage.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Longmont Fly-in |
>It looks like the weather is going to great, so I'm off to the Longmont
>Fly-in. I hope to meet some "listers", there, and talk RVs.
The Yellow RV-8 is going to be there. It spent the night at the TriCounty
airport (near Denver) and I was able to get some unobstructed photos (hard
to do at a fly-in). MAN, is the workmanship on that NICE. When I saw it in
the air, I knew it was an RV-something, but couldn't tell what until it was
closer. I'll never get used to that straight main gear. Nice airplane. (I
secretly like the looks of an RV-4 better, but then, that's what I HAVE.)
Hope a lot of RVs are going to be there.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
I've always wondered, what is the real difference in conventional and HVLP
paint guns. I mean, it's been pretty well described what they do, but what is
the practical difference in the way the paint gets from the end of the gun to
the surface being painted? Both blow a fine mist of paint at what you're
painting, so why is one so much different than the other?
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame |
I had good luck bending the forward part to match the roll-bar profile.
The sides now need bowing out about 1/8th inch each side. I am concerned
that even placing each end of the sides in a jig may not keep the forward
piece from rolling forward during the bowing process.
What experience have you veterens had with the "bow the sides out " bend.
I will appreciate any input from ye who have been there and done that.
Thank You,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q
rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator modifications |
<33B0B80A.1D05(at)ix.netcom.com> <19970625.081108.12567.2.wstucklen1(at)juno.com>
Frederic W Stucklen wrote:
>
>
> Tim & listers,
>
> Try modifying a Nippon Alternator. It's a very simple process....
>
> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
I'm doing just that. I bought a rebuilt alternator from an popular
chain of auto parts stores. The first unit I bought, I returned because
I was not happy with the way the bearings felt. I had the same problem
with the exchange unit, so I took it to a local shop specializing in
alternator/starter rebuilds. They install new OEM Nippondenso bearings.
They also offered to help me with removal of the internal regulator, but
wanted to know if the external regulator I was using was a type A or B
(their terms). I think this has to do with whether the regulator is
in the hot side or the ground side of the field circuit.
Can anyone tell me about the adjustable requlator that Van's sells?
Is there a schematic supplied with this that would show if it could
be termed a type A or type B regulator? I was hoping to find some
answers before picking up the alternator early next week.
I have taken apart several of the small ND alternators, and have been
quite impressed (disclaimer: I'm an EE but with no particular expertise
in Motors/Alternators). The one I bought was for Geo Metro/Storm. I
get conflicting numbers for its output, but all are in the 55-65 amp
range. My cheapie fish scale says it weighs a little less than 8 lbs.
It has a 15mm shaft - this is the right size to accept the 4 in dia.
aluminum pulley that Aircraft Spruce sells.
I haven't yet decided about overvoltage protection - My main reason
for wanting to use the external regulator is to allow me to adjust
the output voltage to the optimum value for whatever battery type
I decide to install. I would be interested in a schematic for simple,
cheap OV protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros - why not vertical panel? |
>
>>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>I'm serious here - why not make my panel vertical - zero tilt?
>>
>>I'm fitting it now and last night I tried setting it straight and level and I
>>see no problem
when Brian fitted his gyro he ran into problems because of their depth, the
subpanel and the hinge mechanism. He ended up tilting his even more to fix
this but wouldn't recommend it. A vertical panel will generate less usable
volume behind it since the forward top skin angles downward. kevin 6A-on mains
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 or 6A Slider specific roll bar brace question? |
> Mine will come thru the skin right at the sub panel (the first bulkhead after
> the firewall) and I am afraid that might interfere with the windshield. Or does
> the windshield contact skin in front of the sub-panel??
Hal,
My roll bar goes thru the skin right at the sub panel as well.
Canopy fits just fine, misses the roll bar no problem.
Tim (canopy done!)
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
> I've been attempting to paint the exterior with various HVLP guns and am
> getting orange peel and runs. Tonight I touched up a primed area (always
> have to sand the primer due to orange peel) with a non HVLP gun and the
> finish was smooth as silk. I've wrestled with the HVLP long enough, it's
> time to finish this thing. I'll admit it, the HVLP beat me and it's time to
> go with what I'm comfortable with. The entire inside was primed and the
> cockpit painted with a conventional gun with very good results. Any help on
> a locating a gun that will do a good job on the exterior will be appreciated.
I'd be interested in knowing what paint you're using. I got the
impression from some of the old archives (1994ish) that System III
didn't work well with the HVLP guns that folks were using.
I've gotta buy a gun pretty soon, so I'll follow this discussion with
interest.
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame |
> I had good luck bending the forward part to match the roll-bar profile.
> The sides now need bowing out about 1/8th inch each side. I am concerned
> that even placing each end of the sides in a jig may not keep the forward
> piece from rolling forward during the bowing process.
>
> What experience have you veterens had with the "bow the sides out " bend.
My bending techniques (ideas borrowed from the list, Scott @ Van's
fabrication shop and my grandfather the farmer):
To correct "whopper jawed" frame (frame crooked w.r.t. the roll bar)
tape the frame to the roll bar, pull the rear with all your might.
To correct frame mismatch with fuselage profile place some blocks on
the floor, lay the frame on the blocks, and step on the frame between
the blocks. Bounce up and down as required to get the desired bow.
To raise and lower the back of the frame w.r.t. the front the best
bet is to slightly tilt the roll bar. If, like me, you have already
riveted the stainless steel support structure in place before you
realize this, you can bend the frame a bit with a homemade tube
bender made from blocks of wood bolted to a 4' 2"x4". It does a
little bit of good.
For aft frame width adjustments I just put the frame on the floor and
pulled/pushed the aft bow as requried. This tends to change the
width of the front bow, so a lot of trial and error is involved.
I took the advice of a lister who recommended making the frame a
little narrow (still fits in the tracks, but hugs the inside),
because the plexi will pull the frame out a tad, resulting in the
desired width in the tracks. This reduces friction between the
rollers and the track, making the canopy slide easier.
Good Luck
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Picnic at Arlington Airfair |
John Ammeter wrote:
> The Arlington Airfair at Arlington, WA (USA) will be held from July 9 to 13.
> This airport is the home of the world famous 'Blackjack Squadron'. As most
> of you know, the Blackjack Squadron is an informal group of local RV flyers
> that enjoy close formation airwork.
I didn't know that! I thought that the "Blackjack Squadron" was
the US Navy Patrol Squadron Twenty- One in which I served from
1959 to 1962. Probably had quite a few more pilots than the RV
group you are reffering to. :-)
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot line - plastic or alu? |
Searching through the archive I see some mention of using Tygon for the
pitot line. Has anyone experienced adverse effects of using plastic
instead of alu?
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Gear Leg Mounting |
For those of you facing gear mount drilling on a 6A, I offer the following
experiences.
I was initially apprehensive about the 6A gear mounts because when I tried
to measure them it was apparent that they were not exactly left-right
mirror symmetrical. Now that I have them clamped for drilling I am really
impressed with the fit of these complicated parts!
I fashioned a false spar from marine plywood and then faced it with 0.025
skin because it was 0.015 too thin. That left me 0.010 oversize. However
since winter the plywood swelled to 0.025 oversize due to humidity. My
longitudinal holes along the longeron will therefore be shifted 0.025
forward. I will drill them small (maybe #30 or 3/16) for now and final
drill them when the actual wings are inserted.
The measurements below were made with a Smart Level Pro and were repeatable
to the same value or at most 0.1 degree difference on successive
measurements. Thus leg angles would measure 45.5 degrees on 4 out of 5
attempts and 45.6 on the non-agreeing measurement. The "leg angle" is the
angle measured with the level resting unsupported along the leg. It is a
measure of symmetry.
I tried to get the legs perfectly level but finally gave up and accepted
the 0.2 degree tilt. This will cause one wheel to be about 1/4 inch lower
than the other over a 86 inch tread width. The legs didn't seem to go
where I thought they would when I made adjustments, and after about five
attempts I concluded that 0.2 degrees was as level as I could get things
without some very complicated shimming.
Measurement on my clamped gear mount geometry per SK-63.
Parameter Measured Value Spec
Levelness 0.2 degree right side low Level
Right leg angle 45.5 degrees N/A
Left leg angle 44.7 degrees
Spacer-gage right 25/32 inch 23/32
- 24/32
Spacer-gage left 25/32 inch 23/32
- 24/32
Toe-in right 3/32 inch 2/32
Toe-in left 3/32
2/32
Alignment angle right 8.3 degrees 7-8 degrees
Alignment angle left 7.3 degrees
7-8 degrees
Shims were required: 0.032 against right spar; 0.063 on left forward pad.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 VFR or IFR |
<19970626.093234.12567.1.wstucklen1(at)juno.com>
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
On Thu, 26 Jun 1997 Frederic W Stucklen writes:
>Glenn,
>
> You should check the archive for past discussions on this topic. In
>short, the RV-6 is NOT a Bonanza or C-182 stability-wise. You
>definitely
>have to "fly" the plane all the time.
Glenn,
The RV series are fine IFR airplanes. They handle wonderfully both in
and out of the clouds. The airplane, of course, neither knows nor cares
whether it is in IMC. I find Mr. Stucklen's comment a bit puzzling. Of
course one must fly the airplane all the time. What else do you intend
to do in the cockpit?
>Most people find that a wing
>leveler is a "must have" in an RV-6 for IFR operation.
I disagree on the matter of a wing leveler. It adds unnecessary weight
and complexity to a light and simple airplane.
I have quite a bit of IFR time in the T-37 as a former Air Force
instructor pilot. I also have cloud time in the T-38, C-182, C-172,
C-150, and Citabria. I find that the civilian airplanes are actually
less demanding on instruments, because they fly at slower speeds. Every
deviation takes so much longer to develop that corrections are easier.
My total flying time on any form of autopilot is precisely zero. It is
simply unnecessary. There are many tasks that I don't mind automating in
the cockpit. Engine management, cowl flap operation, nav waypoint
sequencing, radio tuning by GPS database, are all acceptable areas for
automation. There is one task, however, that I will not delegate to a
machine under any circumstances, and particularly not under extreme
circumstances: flying the airplane. That is my job. An autopilot has
two glaring flaws in my opinion. First, it is stupid. It can never
think as well as the pilot can when handling unexpected problems. Read
about the ATR commuter crashes as an illustration. Second, it does not
care about preserving the pilot's soft, fleshly body. The autopilot will
quite willingly smack you into the terrain. Whatever task you feel
requires the aid of an autopilot is almost certainly LESS important than
flying the airplane. Fumbling with charts and flipping approach plate
pages can be minimized by pre-flight preparation. If you find yourself
so task-saturated that you cannot adequately fly the airplane, it is time
to re-prioritize your tasks. FLYING the AIRPLANE must always come first.
Tell ATC to stand by, if necessary.
One final note: In the T-37, the instructor pilot sits on the right
side, but must fly by reference to the instruments on the left side.
After a couple thousand hours doing that, my RV-4 instrument layout looks
WONDERFUL.
Blue skies,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Longmont Fly-in |
>>It looks like the weather is going to great, so I'm off to the Longmont
>>Fly-in. I hope to meet some "listers", there, and talk RVs.
>The Yellow RV-8 is going to be there. Nice airplane.
>Hope a lot of RVs are going to be there.
Weather was GREAT (hot) and a bunch of local and non-local RV's showed.
Lozza folks around the RV-8 and Tom was yacking a'plenty and selling hats,
T-shirts, and maybe a few RV-8's.
Strickland and Barnards airplanes were there from out of town (and others I
probably missed). Nice work, guys. It will take me some time to get used
to round intakes on an RV cowling but very nice installation. David had the
top cowel off to show off the cooling plenum (is that what it's called?).
And wing tips that go UP!! Ryan's airplane looks better every time I see
it. Good fly-in. Next year: better.
And MAN were there a lot of folks at Ryan's feed. (Thanks again, Ryan.)
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | REEVES322(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Wheel Cylinders |
I use a simple oil squirt can. and some plastic tubing to fit the end of the
squirt nozzel and the bleeder value..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 VFR or IFR |
Craig-Stearman)
>
>On Thu, 26 Jun 1997 Frederic W Stucklen writes:
>>Glenn,
>>
>> You should check the archive for past discussions on this topic. In
>>short, the RV-6 is NOT a Bonanza or C-182 stability-wise. You
>>definitely
>>have to "fly" the plane all the time.
>
>Glenn,
>The RV series are fine IFR airplanes. They handle wonderfully both in
>and out of the clouds. The airplane, of course, neither knows nor cares
>whether it is in IMC. I find Mr. Stucklen's comment a bit puzzling. Of
>course one must fly the airplane all the time. What else do you intend
>to do in the cockpit?
>
>>Most people find that a wing
>>leveler is a "must have" in an RV-6 for IFR operation.
>
>I disagree on the matter of a wing leveler. It adds unnecessary weight
>and complexity to a light and simple airplane.
>
>I have quite a bit of IFR time in the T-37 as a former Air Force
>instructor pilot. I also have cloud time in the T-38, C-182, C-172,
>C-150, and Citabria. I find that the civilian airplanes are actually
>less demanding on instruments, because they fly at slower speeds. Every
>deviation takes so much longer to develop that corrections are easier.
>My total flying time on any form of autopilot is precisely zero. It is
>simply unnecessary. There are many tasks that I don't mind automating in
>the cockpit. Engine management, cowl flap operation, nav waypoint
>sequencing, radio tuning by GPS database, are all acceptable areas for
>automation. There is one task, however, that I will not delegate to a
>machine under any circumstances, and particularly not under extreme
>circumstances: flying the airplane. That is my job. An autopilot has
>two glaring flaws in my opinion. First, it is stupid. It can never
>think as well as the pilot can when handling unexpected problems. Read
>about the ATR commuter crashes as an illustration. Second, it does not
>care about preserving the pilot's soft, fleshly body. The autopilot will
>quite willingly smack you into the terrain. Whatever task you feel
>requires the aid of an autopilot is almost certainly LESS important than
>flying the airplane. Fumbling with charts and flipping approach plate
>pages can be minimized by pre-flight preparation. If you find yourself
>so task-saturated that you cannot adequately fly the airplane, it is time
>to re-prioritize your tasks. FLYING the AIRPLANE must always come first.
> Tell ATC to stand by, if necessary.
>
>One final note: In the T-37, the instructor pilot sits on the right
>side, but must fly by reference to the instruments on the left side.
>After a couple thousand hours doing that, my RV-4 instrument layout looks
>WONDERFUL.
>Blue skies,
>Tom Craig-Stearman
>tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
>
Mr: Craig-Stearman
I couldn't agree less with your feelings re. autopilots. The A/P is a tool
to make your job easier, installed properly, used properly,(Don't fly in
heavy ice in an ATR with the A/P on) it is a way to make your single pilot
IFR experience easier.
I can, and do, fly my 4 just fine on the guages. However when the unexpected
wind shift occurs on an approach and I have to switch plates or whatever
while being vectored around, it's nice to be able to flip the A/P switch
while I do it. Thats the point. The RV IS sensitive and I like it that way,
but having to interrupt your scan to do other things does happen and it's
nice to have the A/P. PERIOD.
I don't really care how much T-37,T-38,C-182,C-172,C-150 time you have, how
much single pilot RV time do you have in actual? I have found Mr Strucklen's
posts to be valid observations from someone that has a fair amount of RV IFR
time and I tend to agree with him. I consider the A/P in my RV-4 a nice tool
worth it's weight. I fly IFR in numerous aircraft from my 4 and light twins
to "smokers" and find your distaste for A/P use narrowminded at the least.
You will find coupled approachs required procedure in certain circumstances
in the airlines.
Did you ever fly a CAT 3 approach? Kind of hard to do without the box. Now
obviously we're not going to fly coupled low approachs, but there are times
the A/P comes in handy in my RV. IMHO it's a wise choice in an IFR RV. If
you want to do it without one , go for it.....but don't hammer those of us
that choose to use the available technology.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94 and sometimes IMC with the A/P on......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Why are the rv-3 surfaces not balanced, but the rv-4's have to be?
Also, I am getting a lot of matronics type trash at the end of every
message. Is any one else?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
>Also, I am getting a lot of matronics type trash at the end of every
>message. Is any one else?
Michael,
With all do respect, if it weren't for Matronics there wouldn't be an RV
list! I think we can refer to our hosts company as something other than
"Trash".
I am sure Matt put that there because so many listers were obviously not
reading the FAQ sheet and didn't know how to unsubscribe and thought he
would plug his website at the some time. I see nothing wrong with that. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory S. Brewsaugh" <gregbrew(at)gte.net> |
Hello all,
While drilling the #40 pilot holes along the centerline of my HS-610, I
somehow managed to drill one of the 6 5/8" holes at 6" instead. At this
position, the rivet will interfere with the HS-404 and HS-405. (Using a
'426' rivet would only solve half the problem.) An empty hole at this
location would be 3/8" from the future 404/405 hole at 5 5/8", and 3/8"
from the proper 6 3/8" hole. As I've "finished" fabricating the HS-610
(by hand), I'd really rather not do it again. Would an "extra" hole at
this location compromise the HS-610? How many of you would fabricate
another HS-610? Help!! TIA.
Greg Brewsaugh
Learning a lot with the empennage.
(Finished the HS rear and VS spars.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
>
>
>>Also, I am getting a lot of matronics type trash at the end of every
>>message. Is any one else?
>
>
>Michael,
>With all do respect, if it weren't for Matronics there wouldn't be an RV
>list! I think we can refer to our hosts company as something other than
>"Trash".
>I am sure Matt put that there because so many listers were obviously not
>reading the FAQ sheet and didn't know how to unsubscribe and thought he
>would plug his website at the some time. I see nothing wrong with that. Al
>
>
>I wholeheartedly agree with Al!! I'm not sure who posted the original
message but it was probably one of those that use the list without sending
Matt any money for its operation.
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
Ray and Nancy Murphy
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV6A empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Costello <bcos(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics trash ????? |
Hi Folks,
An individual stated that he is getting some Matronics 'trash'
at the end of his messages now. That 'trash' is a brief message
from the organization that supports this list (all 800 plus of us)
free of charge except for donations some of us choose to give.
The primary reason for the message is that a number of people
who get on and off the list never bother to read the instructions
and request Matt Dralle to personally remove them from the list
when all it takes is a very simple email.
I, for one, am happy to see the brief bit of 'trash' at the end
since it makes Matt's job a little less tedious. Let's quit
biting the hand that feeds us, please, and continue to use this
list as the fantastic RV builder's info source that it is.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
If you want to flame me, please do so directly.
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Want an extra hour and a half of energy per day with Super Blue
Green products? Email for info or call 800-325-7544 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot line - plastic or alu? |
Has anyone experienced adverse effects of using plastic
>instead of alu?
>
Finn;
I had no problem with the plastic. It was installed in Feb 94 and still
working when I recently sold it. No sweat.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics trash ????? |
RIGHT ON! and a pox on the poltroons who cast flames upon thy head.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted to buy: RV-4 |
There is an RV-4 at Twin Oaks Airpark (near Portland OR) that is for sale.
It had a new O-360 installed just before the owner ground looped it and lost
confidence in his conventional gear skills. The plane is wanting a new
owner. I believe all repairs were made. This plane was owned by a retired
doctor (non-builder) and was repaired by an A&P. For more details, call
Bob Stark (the A&P) @503-628-2817.
>
>Looking to buy an RV-4. Would like an 0-360 powered RV but will consider
>any. Day/Night VFR between $35,000 - $45,000. JMJN01(at)AOL.Com
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Don't check them. Just use it the way it is. Van does not expect them to
be any more balanced than the pipe offers. We get special spec pipe to
achieve the correct balance ;-) Bill
>
>And on the same subject ...
>
>I know that my RV-6 ailerons have a heavy water pipe in the nose to
>balance them. I don't know how to make sure that the pipe alone is
>heavy enough or too heavy. Does anyone in RV land have any advise on
>how to check the aileron balance?
>
>Steve
>Huntington, Vermont
>
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
How much do the tips move relative to the fuselage? The tips deflect about
6" at 9g before the spar fails. But let me tell you, you would not believe
how deformed the skins are before you reach that point. Yet, when you
unload the spar prior to failure, the wrinkles all come out. Aluminum is
strange stuff. Bill
>
>us.oracle.com!SSPRUELL(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>> I found some very thin-wall PVC at Home Depot which I am using. It is
>> 7/8"
>> OD and ~3/4" ID, but weighs less than 1/2" SCH 40. I used a Unibit to
>>
>> drill a 7/8" hole about 1.5" down from the top main rib flange and
>> about
>> 2.5" back from the spar.
>
>I'm doing the same, except I'll put my PVC pipe in front of the main
>spar. I'll make up a couple of little brackets to hold it between the
>spar and tank. This was recommended to me by Bill Benedict. It
>apparently helps solve some wire routing issues in the cockpit.
>
>> I'm using a dab of RTV at each rib to secure the pipe.
>
>Are you worried about the pipe chafing on the rib, particularly since
>the wing is likely to move a little relative to the pipe? Maybe some
>little gussets (someone suggested PVC of a slightly larger diameter) or
>is this overkill? I'm thinking of aerobatics, and maybe the difference
>between the fuselage hanging off the wings in flight and the wings
>hanging off the fuselage on the ground. How much do the tips move up and
>down?
>
>Frank.
>
>
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
>
>I think that it would be enlightening to place the extra altimeter's port
>outside the back of the canopy. If you look at a sampling of T-18's, the most
>common fresh air port is: (pause for effect) the trailing edge of the canopy.
>It is NOT an exit point.
>I'll bet the canopy trailing edge is at a relatively high pressure.
>Bill, has Van's measured this?
>
>Charlie (england(at)vicksburg.com)
Not that I am aware of. However, Van has commented that it is a high
pressure area where the air going over and around the canopy recombines. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Do the instructions instruct you to balance the ailerons? I don't think so!
The ailerons were not meant to be balanced other than the balance provided
by the pipe. Van's words were he was trying to achieve about a 70% balance.
Don't ask how to measure this, just build them, paint them and fly them.
It ain't broke so lets not try to fix it. Bill
>
>The trailing edge is level with the nose on both of my unpainted
>ailerons. Should I add lead to the water pipe?
>
>Steve
>Huntington, Vermont
>
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Iam looking for an I0540, either C4B5 or D4B5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< Ok, I'm breaking a carnal rule and am wearing a flame retardant shirt >>
Yeah, there's alot of that going on in San Francisco too. Sounds kinky and a
little unnatural but at least you have something on while you're doing it.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance & gap seal (not) |
I asked Van about the balance on the ailerons. He did not seem to get hot
about people wanting to balance their aileron, but indicated there was not
much to be gained. The one thing he did caution on, was not to use weight
to balance a heavy wing. Evidently, a local RV-3 buyer/flyer was
performing some maintenance on his RV-3 and found lead in the
counter-balance pipe. I don't remember the exact amount, but it was around
10 lbs. It appears the plane had a heavy wing when built and the builder
elected to add weight to the leading edge of the light wings aileron, thus
forcing the light aileron to force the wing down. This could easily have
led to flutter of the aileron if the RV wing was not as stiff as it is. I
think our advice would be to not static balance the ailerons, just build to
the plans. If you add weight, you are changing the acceleration of the
roll rate. The one most noticeable thing about the -8 (in my opinion) is
the roll accelerates a noticeable amount faster than the -4 or -6. The only
thing I can attribute this to is the spar in the -8 is lighter than the
others (but it is still a 9g spar and has been demonstrated in static load
tests), thus there is less mass to accelerate. Once the roll is
established, it rolls at the same rate because the ailerons and their
placement from the centerline will primarily determine the roll rate.
I also asked about the aileron and gap seals. His comment about this was
the aileron is a slotted aileron design. Gap seals are used on ailerons
that hinge like the flaps. The slotted aileron design is depending on air
flowing from the high pressure side (bottom) of the wing up through the slot
and down the top of the aileron to maintain flow attachment on aileron
deflection. This gives the aileron more effect at high displacement angles
(ie; it does not stall as easily). A good example of detached airflow is to
put tufts on the flap and go fly. With the flaps down, as you decelerate
into a stall the tufts will dance all over the flap, and even turn around
and head forward. If this was the aileron, you would not have much control
under these conditions. Once again, we would recommend that you build the
ailerons and all the control surfaces as called out in the plans.
One person questioned why the elevators on the -3 were not balanced. I did
not pose this question but will in the future. Does anyone know if the P-51
has counter-balanced elevators?
To date, there has not been a failure that can be attributed to flutter on
any of the RV's. So, if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Gear Leg Mounting |
>
>For those of you facing gear mount drilling on a 6A, I offer the following
>experiences.........
Brian and I both have our 6A's on main gear now. We drilled our sockets to
the wing spar/splicer plate back before the fuses were built. I just
propped up the wings, trailing edge up, level in the basement, clamped the
sockets with legs in place and carefully measured the required distances. I
pilot drilled the holes initially using some brass tubing model RR'rs build
with and enlarged them later to avoid damaging the existing spar holes. The
"hole" thing only took an hour once it was set up. I can't imagine drilling
them on the plane as suggested. It took several evenings just to put all
the bolts in. I drilled the side fuse bolts after the wings were bolted on.
It's always scary to install a major part that was built a year ago(when the
project was even foggier!) but the sockets fit, dead on.
I will also suggest you think long before riveting the floor pan ahead of
the spar in. I waited as long as possible. The productivity between
sitting on the floor vs. laying on your side/stomach/back inside the cockpit
and working must be 10:1. I've also discovered that by leaving the tanks
off the wings you can easily reach into the cockpit to retrieve tools etc...
Just wanted to let people know there are many ways to approach the problem.
I like how someone even built the push tubes and control stick mechanism
with just the wings together. I can't think that far ahead. Next time,
right? kevin 6A - running out of
bolts, finally
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
Hi All,
This is just my opinion,
The RV-4 empennage is very much bigger than the RV-3 empennage.
The RV-3 C.G. range is from 18 to 27 percent, while the RV-4 C.G. range
is from 15 to 30 percent.
The larger H.S. and elevator allow the greater forward C.G. range on the
RV-4. But the bigger (heavier) control surface makes it more critical
for flutter problems. Therefore, the RV-4 elevator is balanced.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
(Michael C. Lott) writes:
>
>Why are the rv-3 surfaces not balanced, but the rv-4's have to be?
>Also, I am getting a lot of matronics type trash at the end of every
>message. Is any one else?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Balancing and matronics trash |
Okay, all you guys that are so quick to flame somebody for asking an
innocent question, you deserve a pat on the head and a doggy bone for
being so loyal to your master. Now, stop barking and go to sleep. I
didn't know what that was that was showing up on my mail all of a
sudden. It looked like a bunch of symbols with a couple of intelligible
lines mixed in. That kind of stuff I call trash. I know recently other
people have had times where a lot of "extra" stuff came along with their
mail, and it was fixed after someone said something about it. I simply
though it might be one of those occasions, so I asked about it. EXUSE
me for calling it trash. I DIDN'T mean anything personal by it.
That's a common term for something like that, or at least, what I though
it was. I have a lot of respect for what Matt does with this list and
the things I learn from most of the people on it. Don't spoil it for
me. If you had spent as much thought answering my question about
balance, well, never mind. I apologize to the regular people on this
list for having to read this. It will never happen again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rocky Mountain Regional Fly In |
The Longmont flyin had a heck of a turn out today. Many RV's in attendance
flying in from California to Texas and I might of even heard someone tell me
they came from Tennessee. The new RV-8 was in attendance with Tom Green at
the helm. Rummor had it that Bill B brought it up friday but we soon found
out thats what it was a rummor. We had the second annual barbque again this
year and fed well over 100 people, a good time was had by all. No one left
hungry. Vans should be proud to have a dedicated employee such as Tom. We did
every thing we could to pry him away from his post long enough to get some
lunch and he woulnt budge. (people were sent to relieve him and he still
wouldnt budge.) His lunch was finally delivered to him and I think he was
happy. To all who missed out we hope to see you next year.
Ryan B
P.S.
Kept checking six Mark you were never in sight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Les,
Please give me your Email address. I have a package for you and need to know
what you want me to do with it.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics trash |
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
>
> Why are the rv-3 surfaces not balanced, but the rv-4's have to be?
> Also, I am getting a lot of matronics type trash at the end of every
> message. Is any one else?
>
Michael
Matt at Matronics has probably done more single handily to help
builders by providing this list than any other means available.
I for one feel that Matt has every right to add anything he
wants at the end of each message that goes through Matronics.
He provides this list free for all RV builders and wannabe builders
I hope he makes a bundle of money by advertising his products
here.
BTW I will plug one of his products he provides and that is the
FuelScan I use it and it is a very fine instrument, after using it
I wouldn't leave home without it.
On another subject someone said they would not use a autopilot
in a RV, here again is another tool that makes flying easier
especially if you are in unfamiliar territory and are reading
maps. RVer's You do use your map don't and don't depend entirely
on a Loran or GPS. :-)
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Tom Glover" <tglovebox(at)bc.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR - Headsets Inc... |
aol.com!JDaniel343(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Does any one know if Headsets Inc. adapter will work in the Flightcom Eclipse
> headset?
>
>According to my Headsets Inc. documentation, the ANR adapters DO NOT fit the Flightcom
Eclipse. Sorry to be bearer of bad news.
Tom Glover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Tom Glover" <tglovebox(at)bc.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR - Headsets Inc... |
Mike Wills wrote:
>
>
>
> So if the Headsets Inc. system doesnt sample the input signal, and strip
> out the offending signal, what is the source of the cancellation signal that
> makes the whole thing work?
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4 (wings)
> willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>
> >The Bose does compare the input stream so as to not block it out, The ANR
> >kit from Headsets Inc. does not, That is what you get for your addition
> >$850.00. That was from the owner of Headsets Inc.
>
> >Tailwinds,
> >Doug Rozendaal RV-4 N240
> >dougr(at)netins.net
> >http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>Mike, the Headsets Inc ANR adapters have electret microphones in the earcup that
pick up the offending low-frequency racket. The signal is
amplified, phase-shifted and output to the second miniature speaker in
the earcup. The circuitry is proprietary (I asked), but is very simple.
There's just not a lot of parts on the board!
73
Tom Glover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Hi Bill,
Thanks for answering my question about balancing the ailerons.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Benedict [SMTP:europa.com!billb(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 1997 10:56 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: balance
Do the instructions instruct you to balance the ailerons? I
don't think so!
The ailerons were not meant to be balanced other than the
balance provided
by the pipe. Van's words were he was trying to achieve about a
70% balance.
Don't ask how to measure this, just build them, paint them and
fly them.
It ain't broke so lets not try to fix it. Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
Has anyone used any of the Gall Strobe light Power Supplies to run there
strobes?? I am interested in this option but would like to hear from
others who may have done the same.
Thanks in advance.
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
Just curious as to what make of wood prop people have used; cost thereof
and satisfaction level of prop. Diameter and pitch and engine used would be
very interesting.
Any response from listers would be very appreciated.. Thanks,
Austin
RV-6..paint soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
I am ready to cut out the two F-644's as per DWG 30.
Vans has provided one 14" piece of channel for these parts.
14" would allow for two 7" pieces to be cut, however the plans call for
a bend at the end of each F-644, so the 14" piece is too short.
Should the overall lenth of the F-644 be shortened? Or how should this
be handled?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
Never heard of them. Where did you see info on them?
Les Williams/RV-6AQ #60027
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Rick and Barbara Osgood
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 1997 7:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gall Strobe light Power Supply
Has anyone used any of the Gall Strobe light Power Supplies to run there
strobes?? I am interested in this option but would like to hear from
others who may have done the same.
Thanks in advance.
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Injection system/etc. |
While at the Longmont Fly-in (quite the show) a fellow RVer who is banging
together an RV-4 said he had some promlems fitting the Airflow Injection
system under the RV-4 coweling. Apparently the orientation of one of the
fittings interfered with the "cheek" and he had to add a 4 inch fuel line
after turning the fitting around to get it to fit under the coweling without
adding a blister on the cowel. He said it probably wouldn't have been a
problem on the -6 or -8. Any of you -4 folks running the Airflow system?
This builder is not on the list (then HOW has he gotten his airplane
together?) ;>` I'll pass on any hints.
By the way, Ted Strickland expressed his jealousy for the Colorado builders
support and, as good as the support around here is, THE LIST is an instant,
multi-source/opinion, guide to builders that NO other resourse could come
close to matching. There are questions/answers I have found here that I
didn't even know were questions yet until someone brought them up!! Thanks,
guys/gals!!
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Glenn,
I asked about this not long ago and Tom, at Van's, stated that his plane and
others didn't have the flange and the concensus there was to eliminate the
depiction of the flange from the drawing. Afterwards, I mentioned that it is
shown in several other drawings and pictures but haven't gotten any other
response. I just sent another note mentioning this along with some other
things. Will post when/if I get a definitive answer.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Glenn & Judi
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 1997 10:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 F-644
Hi,
I am ready to cut out the two F-644's as per DWG 30.
Vans has provided one 14" piece of channel for these parts.
14" would allow for two 7" pieces to be cut, however the plans call for
a bend at the end of each F-644, so the 14" piece is too short.
Should the overall lenth of the F-644 be shortened? Or how should this
be handled?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Colwell <colwell(at)innercite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Wheel Cylinders |
aol.com!REEVES322(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I use a simple oil squirt can. and some plastic tubing to fit the end of the
> squirt nozzel and the bleeder value..
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
The hot combination for brake bleeding is a pressure pot (Pump Sprayer
$10 to $15 at Garden Shops) with a reducer and clear plastic hose to
attach to the bleeder valve at the wheel cylinder. Just be sure to pull
the brake pedals back all the way so the master cyl. valves are open.
Hook up an overflow at the reservoir and its a one man operation. This
is the only way to force enough volume of fluid to push the air bubbles
trapped in the high spots.
Steve Colwell RV6 flyer-Lancair 360 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Moving a partially complete RV-6A |
In a few months I'm probably going to have to move from San Antonio
TX to Washington D.C. (Pentagon assignment). I'm building a
quickbuild, and wondering about the best, safest way to move it.
I've already completed about everything except the instrument panel
and engine/cowling.
I've already installed the left and right steps, so I can't just lay
the fuselage flat on the floor like it was when Van shipped it to me.
By the time I'm ready to move, I'll likely have the engine mounted
and the gear attached. Can the aircraft tolerate a long trip in a
U-Haul on the gear, or should I remove the engine and gear, and build
a support structure that supports the fuselage along it's entire
length?
Thanks for your experience.
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
SprintMail.com!randbosgood(at)matronics.com wrote:
> Has anyone used any of the Gall Strobe light Power Supplies to run
> there
> strobes?? I am interested in this option but would like to hear from
> others who may have done the same.
I haven't heard of them. I'm looking into strobes (%-|) at the moment,
trying to decide what to buy. I'd appreciate it if you could tell us a
little about how these Gall Strobes vary from Whelan and the rest?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Empire Development Avionics |
Hi All,
Has anyone dealt with Empire?
They have a Web page at http://users.aol.com/chanik/ed/kk.htm -- amongst
other things they advertise a pair of capacitance fuel senders for
US$120. I've tried emailing to the address given on the page
(chanik(at)aol.com) 3 times so far, with nil response.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 or 6A Slider specific roll bar brace |
question???
Hal,
The location of the front (knife blade portion) of the roll bar brace is
called out on the plans. You then trim the top (tube portion) as required to
achieve a 90 degree angle between the roll bar and the canopy decks/top
longeron. I cannot quite visualise what you have done but if the attach
point of the brace is too far forward you just need to extend the slot
rearward as necessary. You may be left with a skin blemish that needs some
microballoons later.
It it really upsets you there is always the "new forward top skin option".
Leo Davies
Spending money like water (this last bit is expensive isn't it?)
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>
>Hi,
>
>I put a lot of work into attaching the stainless steel brace tube with no
>thought whatever that Van's might have sent one that is too long.
>
>Mine will come thru the skin right at the sub panel (the first bulkhead after
>the firewall) and I am afraid that might interfere with the windshield. Or
does
>the windshield contact skin in front of the sub-panel??
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear fitting panel
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>
>Ok, I'm breaking a carnal rule.....
Scott,
I can't resist.
I hope you are breaking a cardinal rule, breaking carnal rules will get you
nasty infectious diseases.
Leo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>
>Don't check them. Just use it the way it is. Van does not expect them to
>be any more balanced than the pipe offers. We get special spec pipe to
>achieve the correct balance ;-) Bill
>
Ummm Bill,
I hope that is a grin at the end of that message.
The Australian dummy cut his water pipe too short (measure twice cut
once...yeahh I know Dad). He then went down to Luigi Brothers Plumbing and
Tax Avoidance and bought bog standard water pipe of the same diameter. Tell
me youre not using some oddball pipe, rebuilding ailerons at this stage
would be reaaally depressing.
Leo
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
les williams wrote:
>
>
> Never heard of them. Where did you see info on them?
>
> Les Williams/RV-6AQ #60027
Another person on the list mentioned them as an alternative source to
Wheelen. They are one of the major sources for law enforecment vehicles.
The unit mentioned cost $44.95, flashes 3 times per minute and can
handle 6 heads.
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Scott Gesele
>Ok, I'm breaking a carnal rule.....
> I can't resist.
Me either. I *did* try.
> I hope you are breaking a cardinal rule, breaking carnal rules will
> get you
> nasty infectious diseases.
C'mon guys. Let's talk RVs. Carnal rules relating to RVs are:
1. Don't join the Mile-High Club in an RV-4.
2. Don't even think about joining it in an RV-3.
3. If you're interested in carnal stuff, allow more than 5 years to
build an RV.
Frank
(aiming to have his RV built in less than 5 years :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
>>While drilling the #40 pilot holes along the centerline of my HS-610, I=
somehow managed to drill one of the 6 5/8" holes at 6" instead. At this
position, the rivet will interfere with the HS-404 and HS-405. (Using a
'426' rivet would only solve half the problem.) An empty hole at this
location would be 3/8" from the future 404/405 hole at 5 5/8", and 3/8"
from the proper 6 3/8" hole. As I've "finished" fabricating the HS-610
(by hand), I'd really rather not do it again. Would an "extra" hole at
this location compromise the HS-610? How many of you would fabricate
another HS-610? <<
Greg,
I made a "couple" similar type errors on my -8 HS front spar, including a=
n
error on the HS-810. My answer was "it is to early in the project to say=
'good enough'". I made a new 810, although the 810 is probably less work=
than your 610 since the "ears" are already cut. One of the nice things
about RV's is that parts are cheap! I keep telling myself that the FAA
allows home building as an educational experience. If we learn by our
mistakes I am on track for the most educational "five years" of my life!
Don't take this as a "holier than thou" attitude! I have learned to say
"that's acceptable". I was drilling out a lot of rivets until an IA frie=
nd
came to inspect my HS and VS spars. He told me my rivets were as good as=
Challenger and Gulfstreem rivets when I thought they were only marginal i=
f
they were not picture perfect. Of course, I still hold myself to as high=
a
standard as practical, especially on visable structures.
When I had an "extra" hole my IA said it wouldn't hurt anything if I had
proper clearances for the other rivets. When I asked if I should fill th=
e
hole with a rivet, he said no, to consider it a lightning hole. =
I think on many "errors" you must ask yourself what standard you want to
accept. I want an airplane whose structure is not up for question. I wa=
nt
as nice an airplane as I can reasonably build (I'm obviously a first time=
r)
and don't expect to wil major awards at Oshkosh. As a first time builder=
I
think I could build a very good AND an excellent airplane in the same
amount of time and money it would take to produce an award winner since I=
would have to do everything at least twice!
Right now I want a solid airplane, maybe the next one I'll try for an awa=
rd
winner!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kam Yuk CHENG <kamy(at)cyllene.uwa.edu.au> |
| Subject: | crack in the W606A Spar Web |
Hi everyone,
We are building a RV-6A in the Mechanical Eng. Dept. of the University of
Western Australia. This is a final year project where a group of students
construct the airframe and conduct aerodynamic and structural design
analysis on the airframe.
Being a student project, it starts and stops because they have their
course work. when a group gets good at what they are doing, the students,
being in their last year, would get a job, typically with a mining or oil
& gas engineering companies in Western Australia.
So new group would start from scratch and get familiar with the
construction techniques before they work on RV-6A. So we are progressing
fairly slowly.
We have completed the tail section.
At the moment, a group of 4 stduents are working on the main spar section
of the wing and they made a first boo ! While drilling out an
unsatisfactory rivet on the W606A spar web, they made a 1/16 inch crack on
the shot head side of the web. The riviet is the first one from the bulk
head end ( first spreader bar). As far as I can see, the purpose of this
rivet is to secure the spar web to the spreader bar. The spreader bar
should be taking up all the stress and not the spar web.
I am requestiong some suggestions the best way to remedy this situation.
We cannot put a larger counter sunk rivet because we cannot access the
spreader bar since the rest of the main spar has been rivetted. Is it
quite o.k. to clean up the crack (after cleaning up the crack, the hole
would be a bit too big for the rivet) and put a small piece of thin plate
on the shot head side to prevent the rivet pulling through the hole. Any
suggestion would be well appreciated.
Very best regards
Kamy Cheng
Mech. Eng. Dept.
University of Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crass Commercialism) |
For those of you who have sent in your $10 to me for your very own genuine
hydraulic press formed (under 2 tons, count 'em, two) RV-6/6A sliding canopy
skirt cap (accept no substitutes), they are in the mail as of 06/28/97.
I have an initial run of fifty, so the rest of you, don't be shy. Operators
are standing by.
Don't embarass yourself, your friends and/or your family by topping off the
slider with some cobby looking piece of caca. Cough up 2 fins (U.S.,
includes domestic shipping) and get the best. This is the last shameless
solicitation I will post.
-Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: failure update |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>The intake valve failed in the #4 jug. The valve fell into the
>cylinder and bashed the top of the piston and destroyed the head
>
>At this stage I am looking for advise.
>I am going to remove all jugs to inspect/repair/replace as necessary
>The sump and induction system will be taken apart and cleaned. There
>are some valve pieces unaccounted for. They may have gone out the
exhaust
>to determine the cause of the failure. Can the remaining valves be
>tested for serviceability?
Wow. Thanks for sharing this info. If I remember correctly, this was a
recent O/H, yes? Do you have any idea how old the cylinder assemblies
are? An intake valve failure is extremely rare, and it makes me wonder
how old they might be. Intake valves aren't normally replaced during an
overhaul. If it were me, I don't think I'd sleep very well at night if I
didn't replace all of the cylinder assemblies with new.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
compuserve.com!SAJ_SLJ(at)matronics.com wrote:
> I made a "couple" similar type errors on my -8 HS front spar,
> including an
> error on the HS-810. My answer was "it is to early in the project to
> say
> 'good enough'". I made a new 810, although the 810 is probably less
> work
> than your 610 since the "ears" are already cut.
I made a new 610. The old one became pratice ear-cutting parts!
> Don't take this as a "holier than thou" attitude! I have learned to
> say
> "that's acceptable". I was drilling out a lot of rivets until an IA
> friend
> came to inspect my HS and VS spars. He told me my rivets were as good
> as
> Challenger and Gulfstreem rivets when I thought they were only
> marginal if
> they were not picture perfect. Of course, I still hold myself to as
> high a
> standard as practical, especially on visable structures.
Agreed. The other thing to consider is that 'fixing' something will
*inevitably* mean that something else gets damaged a little. For
example, drilling out a rivet will open out the rivet hole a little. In
which case, you've got to look at it and say "Is the likely damage going
to be worse than the existing fault?" If it is, then don't 'fix' it!
Also, try to figure out what you did wrong first time before you fix it.
No point in drilling out a bad rivet, damaging the hole a little
removing it, then driving it again badly. I find a lot of my mistakes
happen after 9:30pm, and a fair amount of those happen after 10pm when
trying to fix the first mistake. I've learnt to STOP WORK when I start
making mistakes.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Moving a partially complete RV-6A |
Just curious Tim, are you building this rv for the C.I.A.? You don't
have to answer that if it's a secret.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
Greg:
Re: whether to accept the HS-610 with an extra 3/8" hole, my two
cents worth is: "Don't."
One of a the bits of wisdom about building an aluminum container to
which you'll someday entrust the life of someone you care about is:
"Good enough probably isn't." I remade this particular part once,
and many builders I know have done the same. Consider it part of the
educational process and/or think of it as getting twice as much fun
for your money.
George
RV-8 #80006 wings.
"... Would an "extra" hole at this location compromise the HS-610?
How many of you would fabricate another HS-610? Help!! TIA.
Greg Brewsaugh
Learning a lot with the empennage.
(Finished the HS rear and VS spars.)"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryon T. Maynard" <bmaynard(at)communique.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving a partially complete RV-6A |
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> In a few months I'm probably going to have to move from San Antonio
> TX to Washington D.C. (Pentagon assignment). I'm building a
> quickbuild, and wondering about the best, safest way to move it.
> I've already completed about everything except the instrument panel
> and engine/cowling.
>
> I've already installed the left and right steps, so I can't just lay
> the fuselage flat on the floor like it was when Van shipped it to me.
>
> By the time I'm ready to move, I'll likely have the engine mounted
> and the gear attached. Can the aircraft tolerate a long trip in a
> U-Haul on the gear, or should I remove the engine and gear, and build
> a support structure that supports the fuselage along it's entire
> length?
>
> Thanks for your experience.
>
> Tim
> ---------------------
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6AQ #60023
> San Antonio TX
> timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
> -----------------------
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
I just moved from Florida to Louisiana with my RV-6A. The trip in the
U-Haul was uneventful. Just make sure nothing is vibrating in it or
against it.
Bryon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>Just curious as to what make of wood prop people have used; cost thereof
>and satisfaction level of prop. Diameter and pitch and engine used would be
>very interesting.
>Austin
Austin,
Several prop makers that I've heard good things about: Warnke (slow to
deliver, sometimes), Performance Props, Aymar-Demuth (sp?), Prince and I
used a Props Inc, that I liked pretty good (although I've since switched to
a Sensenich, fixed pitch.)
Prices range from around $500-900. I think most RVers use around a 68"
diameter.
Prop pitch is hard to pin down as different prop makers measure pitch at
different locations. You should be able to tell a prop maker what kind of
plane you have, what the horsepower engine and what you want out of the prop
and he should be able to come pretty close. Performance Props ship their
props without the leading edge strip and final finish for a preleminary test
in case re-work needs to be done. When the prop is performing to suit the
pilot, you send it back and they finsih the prop. A friend recently went
through this and was very satisfied with Performance props.
I sent my Props Inc. back for "re-pitch" several times and was not charged
for the re-work and was satisfied with the work that Jeff did.
Warnke makes a good prop but doesn't seem to get re-work done in a timely
manner.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Injection system/etc. |
Mike,
The builder you were referring to is Stewart Bergner. He's a good freind and
quite a craftsman. The problem he was having was installing the purge valve
the way it was recomended. He remedied the situation by remote mounting it
somewhere else. He isnt on the list but he has a good connection ;).
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Moving a partially complete RV-6A |
Tim,
I have now made 3 trips from Idaho to colorado in a Ryder truck transporting
3 different airplanes. The trucks were 24' horizontal stab must be removed,
wings tied to the wood rails on the sides, and fueselage sits in the middle.
Pieces of 2x4 can be nailed or screwed to the wood flooring around the
landing gear to keep the fueselage from moving. Ailerons, Flaps, Rudder,&
Elevators can be wraped in protective material and placed in boxes or a left
over crate and placed under the fueselage. In 3 trips we have had no damage.
The job would be much easier with the engine off of the airplane and their
would be plenty of room left over in the truck for it.
Good Luck
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV List Cheap HVLP |
Have one of the little Camp. Haus. units and am happy with it when I used it
to paint my KFOX. Works great with the thin Polyfiber materials and dope but
suspect it would not shoot heavier bodied paints with the desired results.
They (C.H.) make a pro model for a little more money. Has a higer working
pressure and flow rating. Have seen them at Home Depot. Maybe take a look
see. JRW.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dirt dobbers ? Help! |
I saw a posting here about a device that would keep the little devils out of
my hanger. Was it some type of electronic device? Where do you get them and
are there any other suggestions on stopping the pests. Feel free to e-mail me
at JRWillJR. Thanks. RV-4 2280.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Improved Trim Control Handle |
I've never been happy with the look or feel of the aileron mechanical trim
control handle (6/6A). A far better solution (IMHO) is to substitute the
chintzy steel handle with a C656 sliding canopy latch handle. It
provides more side area to apply pressure against the friction, it's milled
to size and fits perfectly, and it looks far less, well,
agricultural.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving a partially complete RV-6A |
Spend alot of time preparing to support the craft.
A few years ago Budwieser had a Model 4 Kitfox
built and designed to manage floats they were
transporting it to lakeland Florida and when "their"
truck arrived the craft was pretty badly damaged.
The bouncing ride in the truck which is very rigid
is something it normally would not experience.
----------
> From: Bryon T. Maynard <communique.net!bmaynard(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Moving a partially complete RV-6A
> Date: Sunday, June 29, 1997 8:42 PM
>
>
> Tim Lewis wrote:
> >
<timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
> >
> > In a few months I'm probably going to have to move from San Antonio
> > TX to Washington D.C. (Pentagon assignment). I'm building a
> > quickbuild, and wondering about the best, safest way to move it.
> > I've already completed about everything except the instrument panel
> > and engine/cowling.
> >
> > I've already installed the left and right steps, so I can't just lay
> > the fuselage flat on the floor like it was when Van shipped it to me.
> >
> > By the time I'm ready to move, I'll likely have the engine mounted
> > and the gear attached. Can the aircraft tolerate a long trip in a
> > U-Haul on the gear, or should I remove the engine and gear, and build
> > a support structure that supports the fuselage along it's entire
> > length?
> >
> > Thanks for your experience.
> >
> > Tim
> > ---------------------
> > Tim Lewis
> > RV-6AQ #60023
> > San Antonio TX
> > timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
> > timrv6a(at)iname.com
> > -----------------------
> >
> > +--
--+
> > | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com! |
> > | ---
|
> > | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> > | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> > +--
--+
> I just moved from Florida to Louisiana with my RV-6A. The trip in the
> U-Haul was uneventful. Just make sure nothing is vibrating in it or
> against it.
>
> Bryon
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Gear Leg Mounting |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Kevin,
What a great idea! Definately going to do that on the next one.
And the "next one" has been started! I picked up a tail & wing kit
(Phlogistin spar) from a guy who couldn't finish it. This one is going
to be a Chevy powered VFR -6a......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>>
>>For those of you facing gear mount drilling on a 6A, I offer the
>following
>>experiences.........
>
>Brian and I both have our 6A's on main gear now. We drilled our
>sockets to the wing spar/splicer plate back before the fuses were built.
I just
>propped up the wings, trailing edge up, level in the basement, clamped
the
>sockets with legs in place and carefully measured the required
distances. I
>pilot drilled the holes initially using some brass tubing model RR'rs
build
>with and enlarged them later to avoid damaging the existing spar holes.
The
>"hole" thing only took an hour once it was set up. I can't imagine
drilling
>them on the plane as suggested. It took several evenings just to put
all
>the bolts in. I drilled the side fuse bolts after the wings were bolted
on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 VFR or IFR |
<19970628.134233.8207.0.tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com>
43-50,52-56,58-60,62-87,89-92,94-104
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
John,
From the standpoint of flying many, many hours of IFR in aircraft
that are more demanding than most certified small aircraft, you are
probably one of the few who has an IFR competency level far in excess
of the majority of people flying IFR. But for those individuals that are
doing only 15-20 Hrs per 6 months, in less sensitive aircraft, the
proficiency levels just aren't at your level of flying. Most civilian
trained
individuals never see the disciplinary level, or the level of flying
experiences that you and your students enjoyed. Most civilian pilots
are not thousands of hours in a T-38 for a living. These individuals
certainly can use the lower work load levels a minimal autopilot has to
offer.
And yes, I agree autopilots are stupid and can kill if the pilot uses
them
for a cure-all to proficiency. That was not my premiss for suggesting
that
the most people flying the RV series find a wing level necessary. The
pilot is ultimately responsible for the flying of the aircraft, not the
autopilot.
And he/she must FLY the AIRPLANE first. That means attitude and
positional awareness at all times, regardless of what/who is maintaining
the
that attitude and position. Anybody flying IFR had better be proficient
enough to handle any situation that they're dealt.
This is by no means an excuse for not obtaining higher proficiency,
or the number one task of flying the aircraft. I used my RV-6A to get my
IFR ticket, and flew it without an autopilot for over a year in hard IFR.
I
now have over 200 Hrs of IFR in under three years. (900 Hrs TT on the -6A
in under fours years). The RV-6 requires the pilot's proficiency to be
above
that needed to safely fly other certified small aircraft. While ground
planning is essential to safe IFR, ammended clearances are a reality.
Flying alone and fumbling with charts IFR conditions does happen.
proficiency levels must be maintained to handle these conditions with or
without the aid of other equipment. But that doesn't preclude the use of
equipment that makes flying a bit less stressful.
If we can't put our trust on a wing leveler for short durations while
doing other cockpit tasks, then I dare say that we shouldn't be putting
our trust in any other mechanical part of the aircraft as well (the
engine?).
While the autopilot is stupid, when coupled to the human brain, it can be
useful.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
(John T. Craig-Stearman) writes:
>Glenn, The RV series are fine IFR airplanes. They handle wonderfully
>both in and out of the clouds. The airplane, of course, neither knows
>nor cares whether it is in IMC. I find Mr. Stucklen's comment a bit
>puzzling. Of course one must fly the airplane all the time. What else
do you
>intend to do in the cockpit?
>>Most people find that a wing leveler is a "must have" in an RV-6 for
IFR operation.
>I disagree on the matter of a wing leveler. It adds unnecessary weight
>and complexity to a light and simple airplane. I have quite a bit of
>IFR time in the T-37 as a former Air Force instructor pilot. I also
>have cloud time in the T-38, C-182, C-172, C-150, and Citabria. I
>find that the civilian airplanes are actually less demanding on
>instruments, because they fly at slower speeds. Every deviation takes
>so much longer to develop that corrections are easier. My total
>flying time on any form of autopilot is precisely zero. It is simply
>unnecessary. There are many tasks that I don't mind automating in the
>cockpit. Engine management, cowl flap operation, nav waypoint
>sequencing, radio tuning by GPS database, are all acceptable areas for
>automation. There is one task, however, that I will not delegate to a
>machine under any circumstances, and particularly not under extreme
>circumstances: flying the airplane. That is my job. An autopilot has
>two glaring flaws in my opinion. First, it is stupid. It can never
>think as well as the pilot can when handling unexpected problems.
>Read about the ATR commuter crashes as an illustration. Second, it
>does not care about preserving the pilot's soft, fleshly body. The
>autopilot will quite willingly smack you into the terrain. Whatever
>task you feel requires the aid of an autopilot is almost certainly
>LESS important than flying the airplane. Fumbling with charts and
>flipping approach plate pages can be minimized by pre-flight
>preparation. If you find yourself so task-saturated that you cannot
>adequately fly the airplane, it is time
>to re-prioritize your tasks. FLYING the AIRPLANE must always come
first.
> Tell ATC to stand by, if necessary. One final note: In the T-37,
>the instructor pilot sits on the right side, but must fly by reference
>to the instruments on the left side.
>After a couple thousand hours doing that, my RV-4 instrument layout
looks
>WONDERFUL.
>Blue skies,
>Tom Craig-Stearman tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com +--
> --+ | Visit the
>Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! | |
> --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" | | & put the word "[un]subscribe"
>in the *body*. No other text or subject. | +--
> --+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros - why not vertical panel? |
Hal Kempthorne wrote"
>
> I'm serious here - why not make my panel vertical - zero tilt?
>
> I'm fitting it now and last night I tried setting it straight and level
and I
> see no problem. If it is tilted fwd at top, won't I see more sky
reflections?
> Maybe it is so I can keep up the scan & still see the lightning?
I worked on my canopy frame this weekend and the fit between it and the
instrument panel is critical. It would also change the alignment between
the canopy forward skin and the fuselage forward skin. Could be done, but
you need to consider all of the ramifications of a change like this.
Probably more trouble than it is worth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
--=_ORCL_22553445_0_11919706301209210
I hope you meant "3 times per second"...
******************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation *
* Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center *
* Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700 *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002 *
******************************************************************************
--=_ORCL_22553445_0_11919706301209210
Date: 29 Jun 97 19:18:18
From:"Rick and Barbara Osgood "
Subject:Re: RV-List: Gall Strobe light Power Supply
les williams wrote:
>
>
> Never heard of them. Where did you see info on them?
>
> Les Williams/RV-6AQ #60027
Another person on the list mentioned them as an alternative source to
Wheelen. They are one of the major sources for law enforecment vehicles.
The unit mentioned cost $44.95, flashes 3 times per minute and can
handle 6 heads.
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
--=_ORCL_22553445_0_11919706301209210--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance & gap seal (not) |
Bill,
I was looking up close at Chuck Hall's P-51 at Ramona a couple of weeks
ago. All the control surfaces are counter-balanced.
Miike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Does anyone know if the P-51
>has counter-balanced elevators?
>Bill
>RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
>flying hours.
>These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
>position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR - Headsets Inc... |
Tom,
Thanks for the response. So with the microphone installed in the earcup,
any low frequency present would be considered "offending racket" and would
be attacked by the ANR circuitry. This would include any low frequency
portion of music (although some may consider this to be "offending racket"
also).
In our canceller applications we attempt to sample the offending signal at
its source rather than its destination so that the canceller descriminates
between desired and undesired signals. Some experimentation with placement
of that microphone around the cockpit of the airplane (instead of in the
headset earcup) may provide the desired results.
It seems to me that the use of a seperate speaker to provide the
cancellation is redundant. I would think a better place to house the ANR
circuitry and pipe the cancellation signal into the audio stream would be at
the intercomm box rather than at the headset. Why put any more weight on the
pilots head than is necessary. I wonder if any of the intercomm
manufacturers have considered this?
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Mike Wills wrote:
>>
>> So if the Headsets Inc. system doesnt sample the input signal, and strip
>> out the offending signal, what is the source of the cancellation signal that
>> makes the whole thing work?
>>
>> Mike Wills
>> RV-4 (wings)
>> willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>>
>>
>> >The Bose does compare the input stream so as to not block it out, The ANR
>> >kit from Headsets Inc. does not, That is what you get for your addition
>> >$850.00. That was from the owner of Headsets Inc.
>>
>> >Tailwinds,
>> >Doug Rozendaal RV-4 N240
>> >dougr(at)netins.net
>> >http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
>>
>>Mike, the Headsets Inc ANR adapters have electret microphones in the
earcup that pick up the offending low-frequency racket. The signal is
>amplified, phase-shifted and output to the second miniature speaker in
>the earcup. The circuitry is proprietary (I asked), but is very simple.
>There's just not a lot of parts on the board!
>73
>Tom Glover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
Glen & Judi wrote:
>
> I am ready to cut out the two F-644's as per DWG 30.
>
> Vans has provided one 14" piece of channel for these parts.
>
> 14" would allow for two 7" pieces to be cut, however the plans call for
> a bend at the end of each F-644, so the 14" piece is too short.
>
> Should the overall lenth of the F-644 be shortened? Or how should this
> be handled?
Ironically enough, I came across the same problem last night. Looking at
it from a structural and load bearing standpoint, it appears that there
should be some attachment to the sub-panel. I decided to use a small angle
segment (3/4 x 3/4 x .063) to attach the F-644 to the sub-panel. On the
firewall (forward) end, I trimmed off a chunk as the plans show.
RV-6 Finishing kit, t = 5years, 4 months
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot line - plastic or alu? |
Hi Finn,
I was plumbing my pitot over this last weekend and had the same question. I
broke out my Sportplane Builder by Tony B. to read his recommendation.
Aluminum, nylon, and polyethylene were all mentioned as reasonable choices.
I then broke out my ACS catalog and found nylon, polyethylene, and tygon all
looking like possible candidates.
It occurred to me that the poly tubing looks like the same stuff sold by
hardware stores, Home Depot, etc.. to hook up water supply to a refrigerator
ice maker, so thats what I used. I assume that if it can take the 60 psi of
water pressure I have in my house it should work for pitot. Total investment
for 25 feet of tubing and fittings about $5.00. If anyone has tried this and
had a problem please let me know.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Searching through the archive I see some mention of using Tygon for the
>pitot line. Has anyone experienced adverse effects of using plastic
>instead of alu?
>
>Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernesto Sanchez <40106(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
Steven Spruell wrote:
>
> I hope you meant "3 times per second"...
>
> ******************************************************************************
>
> * Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation
*
> * Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center
*
> * Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700
*
> * sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002
*
> ******************************************************************************
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gall Strobe light Power Supply
> Date: 29 Jun 97 19:18:18
> From: "Rick and Barbara Osgood <SprintMail.com!randbosgood(at)matronics.com>"
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> References:
>
>
> les williams wrote:
> >
> >
> > Never heard of them. Where did you see info on them?
> >
> Another person on the list mentioned them as an alternative source to
> Wheelen. They are one of the major sources for law enforecment vehicles.
> The unit mentioned cost $44.95, flashes 3 times per minute and can
> handle 6 heads.
Gall's is a Law Enforcement and Fireman's equipment suppier. In their
catalogs they have all types of lighting available (some of it is
Whelen's stuff). Cheaper than airplane stuff but works good. Anyone
can order from them. I posted the phone number awhile a go. Search the
list for it. I can't find it right now. Free catalogs. Good stuff.
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
RV-6 soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
Steven Spruell wrote:
>
> I hope you meant "3 times per second"...
>
> ******************************************************************************
>
> * Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation
*
> * Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center
*
> * Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700
*
> * sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002
*
> ******************************************************************************
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gall Strobe light Power Supply
> Date: 29 Jun 97 19:18:18
> From: "Rick and Barbara Osgood <SprintMail.com!randbosgood(at)matronics.com>" <owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> References:
>
>
> les williams wrote:
> >
> >
> > Never heard of them. Where did you see info on them?
> >
> > Les Williams/RV-6AQ #60027
>
> Another person on the list mentioned them as an alternative source to
> Wheelen. They are one of the major sources for law enforecment vehicles.
> The unit mentioned cost $44.95, flashes 3 times per minute and can
> handle 6 heads.
>
> --
> Rick and Barbara Osgood
>
> RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
Opps... you are correct, it is 3 times per second.
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 or 6A Slider specific roll bar brace |
> >I put a lot of work into attaching the stainless steel brace tube with no
> >thought whatever that Van's might have sent one that is too long.
> >
> >Mine will come thru the skin right at the sub panel (the first bulkhead after
> >the firewall) and I am afraid that might interfere with the windshield. Or
> does
> >the windshield contact skin in front of the sub-panel??
> >
> The location of the front (knife blade portion) of the roll bar brace is
> called out on the plans. You then trim the top (tube portion) as required to
Try as I might, I never could find this dimension. Where is it? I
went looking for it after I made the same mistake that Hal made.
The forward edge of my windscreen actually came out a little further
back than most, so I did have to move the bar. I fabricated a new
F-6109 doubler plate and reinforcing angle. I have yet to patch the
slot in the skin, but that shouldn't be a big deal.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
ll, > > While drilling the #40 pilot holes along the centerline of my
HS-610, I > somehow managed to drill one of the 6 5/8" holes at 6"
instead. [snip!] > Would an "extra" hole at > this location compromise
the HS-610? How many of you would fabricate > another HS-610? Help!!
TIA.
I see someone else responded that "good enough probably isn't". I think
I would probably disagree in this case. 3/8" is acceptable edge
distance, although it may or may not be less than the minimum distance
between rivets. (The military's minimums for this are published in
MIL-R-47196A "Rivets, Buck-Type, Preparation and Installation of" -- see
the rv-list FAQ for more on that.) If it meets edge distance and
minimum spacing requirements, I really don't see why it would be a
problem. If it doesn't meet spacing minimums but does meet edge
distance, I would think you could leave it un-filled.
Just my opinion. I think it would certainly be worth a call to Van's,
in any case.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
I received the following from the Thorp T-18 Newsletter by Rich Snelson:
Gary Green to Rich Snelson:
Your N.L. also mentioned that another cutdown M74D prop had failed. What are
the details on this? I can hardly believe anyone would continue to fly a
T-18 (or an RV-4/RV-6, for that matter) with one of those ticking time bombs
bolted to the engine. A guy here in Texas has built several of these props
for RV's and has experienced about a 20% inflight failure rate, so far. None
of them have accumulated more than about 500 hrs before blowing up.
If one buys a T-18 or an RV without subscribing to the current
newsletter and reviewing the old newsletters, he operates in ignorance. He
can
avoid a lot of pain and expense by learning from the experiences of others.
Gary Green
9111 Bellechase
Granbury, Tx 76049
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Gear Leg Mounting |
Could you go through your explanation in a little more detail. I am having
difficulty visualizing what you did. E-mail me directly if you don't anyone
else would benefit.
Thanks in advance
Shelby in Nashville.
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) asked:
>
>I've always wondered, what is the real difference in conventional and HVLP
>paint guns. I mean, it's been pretty well described what they do, but
>what is
>the practical difference in the way the paint gets from the end of the gun to
>the surface being painted? Both blow a fine mist of paint at what you're
>painting, so why is one so much different than the other?
I'm not an expert, but due to the lower pressure, the HVLP gun atomizes the
paint into larger droplets. This results in less misc paint being blown
around, and less overspray.
If you are using a Croix-style HVLP gun with a turbine, the turbine heats
the air. Thus, if you are shhoting a paint (like Imron) that uses
different reducers for different temperature ranges, you probably need to
go to the next hotter (slower) reducer.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
assebling engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Here's a question I've been wondering about. Why do we use different
relays for Master and Starter? Why not use another master relay as the
starter relay?
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
engine being assembled by Lycon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | RV Picnic at Arlington Airfair/Correction |
>Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 17:30:39
>To: RV-List
>From: John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com>
>Subject: RV Picnic at Arlington Airfair
>
>The Arlington Airfair at Arlington, WA (USA) will be held from July 9 to
13. This airport is the home of the world famous 'Blackjack Squadron'. As
most of you know, the Blackjack Squadron is an informal group of local RV
flyers that enjoy close formation airwork. They fly RV-4's and RV-6's with
a wide range of engines and props.
>
>The Puget Sound RVators are again hosting a BBQ picnic on Saturday starting
at noon in the RV aircraft parking area. Last year we served over 180
hamburgers and 50 pounds of salmon to well over 150 hungry RV'ers and
guests. We also provide much needed shade and lots of lawn chairs along
with refreshments to RV'ers during the rest of the Airfair.
>
The tickets mentioned below are for admission to the airfair ONLY. BBQ
entrance is by donation; amount is up to your conscience (and how hungry you
are).
Sorry for the confusion.
John.
>I have tickets available for our guests at the 'air-arrival' rate. For
$10.00 you can purchase a ticket good for all week or, if you're only coming
for Saturday, you need only pay $5.00. If you're interested in purchasing
these tickets please send me a check (made out to me) at the address below.
Include a stamped self-addressed envelope and be certain to indicate what
ticket('s) you want. BTW, children 15 and under are free if accompanied by
an adult.
>
>If you're flying in there is no reason to pre-purchase your tickets; you'll
get the same price 'at the gate'. This 'deal' only benefits those who are
driving in to the Airfair.
>
>Hope to see many of you there. Stop by to talk to me; I'll be the one
flipping burgers.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Eastern Avionics International |
Dear Listers,
I have been looking at avionics packages. Being based some distance from the
U.S. but liking the competitive Avionics market in your grand country I plan
to use a U.S. distributor. I note that a company called Avionics East
advertise a "Kwikmount" system where they provide the wiring harnesses for
an avionics package. This looks like a good thing to a non electronics
technician.
Does anyone have any experience with Eastern Avionics and their Kwikmount
system or any other group providing such? I don't want a complete panel
build up just a bit of a leg up.
If you have nice things to say post them to the list, anything negative send
to me privately.
Thanks,
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
I was just on the phone asking about whether to replace my intake valves on
the major I'm having done to my O-320. Tom's engine problem brought this
about, naturally. I was told that Lycoming does not require it for a major
if dimensions and magnaflux checks out OK. The shop that is doing my major
is highly recommended. Van's uses them also. They told me they have never
had a problem with intake valves on a major. So they agreed with Lycoming.
Tom, was your engine majored recently and do you know if they magnaflux them?
Have a Good Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
Actually, neither flashing rate would be acceptable would it? Looks to me as if
it is at least 40 flashes per minute (fewer than one per second) and not more
than 100 flashes per minute (fewer than two per second). In case of overlaps,
max is 180 per minute so 3 times per second would be on the upper edge.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
> I hope you meant "3 times per second"...
>
> ******************************************************************************
>
> * Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation
*
> * Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center
*
> * Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700
*
> * sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002
*
> ******************************************************************************
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
It has to do with contiuios vs intermittent duty cycle. The master relay
is optimized for long duty cycles. The starter relay contacts are designed
to accept the high starting loads of a starter. It would work but it would
fail sooner if you used a master relay as a starter. Never use a starter
relay as a master relay because the coil will overheat and fail very soon.
Tailwinds, RV-4 N240
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
----------
> From: Dave Barnhart <a.crl.com!barnhart(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Why?
> Date: Sunday, June 29, 1997 9:04 AM
>
>
> Here's a question I've been wondering about. Why do we use different
> relays for Master and Starter? Why not use another master relay as the
> starter relay?
>
> Best Regards,
> Dave Barnhart
> rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
> engine being assembled by Lycon
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Eastern Avionics International |
Hi Leo and others,
Chief Aircraft in Grants Pass OR, is a good outfit:
Chief AC 1301 Brookside Blvd, Grants Pass 97526 800.447.3408 chief(at)magick.net
Have them send you a catalog - color yet!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
Well it's time to start seriously getting some work done on this RV8.
Unfortunately, that means giving up my RV6. Therefore, for sale is one 1992
RV6 N523JC, sn:20404, 440 hours TT Airframe, O-320-E2G, 222 hours TT since
factory remanufacture with a Warnke 72x70 prop. Panel includes full gyros,
Terra digital nav/com, Narco transponder, IIMorrow 612 BCV loran, Sigtronics
stereo intercom. The list of features goes on. If you look at your RV
calander for this month, July, you will see this airplane. The asking price
is $55k.
I will be flying throughout the Western US next week and will be (weather
permitting) at Arlington for a day or so if your interested in a closer look.
I also plan to have the airplane at Oshkosh Tuesday through Sunday. For
more information you can call me, Rick McBride at (630) 851-3136 or my
partner, Jim Longley at (815) 684-4076. This has been an exceptionally fun
airplane and I wouldn't sell it but I'm itching to build again and there has
to be a bill payer.
Rick McBride
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Gear Mount - False Spar Method |
Several builders have asked for more detail on the false spar method of 6A
gear mount drilling. It saves time and, most importantly, saves space,
because it does not require wing insertion. The procedure below is based on
a method described to me by 6A builder Scott Johnson. Scott used it
successfully and he reported that his mounts fit the wing spar perfectly
when he installed the wings during final assembly.
1. Measure spar thickness.
2. Get suitable wood of identical thickness; a planer will be required.
I
glued together two pieces of marine plywood and planed them. If the wood is
not of identical thickness as the spar, the holes in the longeron will be
displaced by an amount equal to the difference between the false spar and
the real spar. This can be compensated by drilling the holes in the
longeron undersized, and drilling to final size when the wing is finally
inserted. Drilling larger holes when the two mating holes are slightly
offset can create elongated holes, so try to get the thicknesses equal.
3. Saw wood to same outline as spar from root to about 6 inches beyond
fuselage sides.
4. Obtain long center drills from Avery: 3/16 and 1/4; a standard-length
3/8 center drill is useful as well for the largest spar holes; else use a
transfer punch. Center drills have only a special "starting point" and the
rest is a smooth shaft.
5. Rout slots in wood false spars to clear rivets in spar.
6. Clamp false spar to real spar and drill in alignment with center drills;
just start hole; transfer punches can be used to transfer hole centers if
center drills are not available, but the center drill method is more
accurate.
7. Finish drill in drill press to ensure perpendicularity.
8. Use the false spar with splice plates to hold the F604 rigidly while
drilling cabin seat ribs; the F604 can easily be deflected from
straightness by the force of unequal length ribs.
9. After installing the platenuts in the F604, rout grooves so the false
spar can be slipped over them for gear mount drilling.
10. False spars can now be used to drill the landing gear mounts and later
serve as outriggers to which legs can be clamped when the fuselage is
removed from the jig.
11. Drill landing gear mounts with a 12-inch long modified #12 drill from
Avery. Grind down the flutes 1 1/8 inch beyond the tip so the F604 will
not be contacted by the full drill diameter. The false spar serves as a
sacrificial drill guide. The holes in the F604 are not enlarged because
the drill diameter has been reduced in this region of contact.
The measurements below were made with a Smart Level Pro and were repeatable
to the same value or at most 0.1 degree difference on successive
measurements. Thus leg angles would measure 45.5 degrees on 4 out of 5
attempts and 45.6 on the non-agreeing measurement. The "leg angle" is the
angle measured with the level resting unsupported along the leg. It is a
measure of symmetry.
I tried to get the legs perfectly level but finally accepted the 0.2 degree
tilt. This will cause one wheel to be about 1/4 inch lower than the other
over a 86 inch tread width. The legs didn't seem to go where I thought
they would when I made adjustments. The mounts can be either displaced
vertically or rotated to effect levelness. I found that rotating
introduced other alignment problems and the vertical displacement range was
rather limited. After about five attempts I concluded that 0.2 degrees was
as level as I could get without some complicated shimming.
Measurement on my clamped gear mount geometry per SK-63.
Parameter Measured Value Spec
Levelness 0.2 degree right side low Level
Right leg angle 45.5 degrees N/A
Left leg angle 44.7 degrees
N/A
Spacer-gage right 25/32 inch 23/32
- 24/32
Spacer-gage left 25/32 inch 23/32
- 24/32
Toe-in right 3/32 inch 2/32
Toe-in left 3/32
2/32
Alignment angle right 8.3 degrees 7-8 degrees
Alignment angle left 7.3 degrees
7-8 degrees
Shims were required: 0.032 against right spar; 0.125 on left forward pad.
Dennis Persyk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Hi Dave,
This is not a good answer to your question but, I was told the master is
a continuous duty relay and the starter relay is not. The starter relay
can handle much more of a load than the master. If this is wrong,
someone straighten me out on this. See ya.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Paperwork--sale of plane |
Does anyone know of any paper work I can down load
from computer for sale contract or release of respon-
sibility of a experimental aircraft. I have a buyer want-
ing to purchase. If someone could e-mail me at
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net I would appreciate it. Thanks.
Mike Comeaux
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
writes:
>
(Snip)
>Never use a starter relay as a master relay because the coil will
overheat and fail very soon.
>
>Tailwinds, RV-4 N240
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)netins.net
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
Hi All,
Doug has a very good comment here.
I know of one case where a starter relay was used for a master relay.
It took just about one hour of continuous operation for the relay insides
to melt down.
It shorted the battery cable to ground and started the insulation on the
cable burning.
This was at the end of the first flight of an RV-3. Fortunately, the
pilot was taxiing back to the hangar when it happened. It was still very
exciting for him.
This RV-3 had the battery in front of the main spar, right under the 25
gallon fuselage fuel tank.
The pilot beat the flames out with a shop rag that he had in the cockpit,
and jumped out of the cockpit (springing the sliding canopy in the
process).
The Master Relays I checked had a 12 ohm coil, so they will draw 1 amp
from a 12 volt battery.
The Starter Relays I checked had a 3, or 4, ohm coil, so they will draw
4, or 3, amps from a 12 volt battery.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR - Headsets Inc... |
>aol.com!JDaniel343(at)matronics.com wrote:
>> Does any one know if Headsets Inc. adapter will work in the Flightcom Eclipse
>> headset?
>>According to my Headsets Inc. documentation, the ANR adapters DO NOT fit
the Flightcom Eclipse. Sorry to be bearer of bad news.
>Tom Glover
Ok, another question, can you use the ANR in the Flightcom Blackhawk
headsets or Flightcom Nighthawks. Is there a list that could be put on the
list for further reference for the other head set types?
L.Coats RV6 193hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Gear Mount - False Spar Method |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Dennis,
While I didn't use your method, I did find that a piece of 3/16"
steel brake line makes a good drill guide for drilling out the landing
gear mounting assemblies. Instead of relying on drill to center in the
wood, I drilled the false spar out to #12, then slid the steel tubing
through
the spar assembly. the outside diameter of the steel tubing is exactly
the
size of the #12 holes in the F604 part. I used a long #30 drill inside
the
steel tubing to drill pilot holes in the landing gear assemblies. These
were then later drilled to the proper size on the drill press.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>11.Drill landing gear mounts with a 12-inch long modified #12 drill from
>Avery. Grind down the flutes 1 1/8 inch beyond the tip so the F604 will
>not be contacted by the full drill diameter. The false spar serves as a
>sacrificial drill guide. The holes in the F604 are not enlarged because
>the drill diameter has been reduced in this region of contact.
>Dennis Persyk
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | justjas(at)mn.frontiercomm.net |
I have had a similar problem recently and called Van's. I was told that the thicker
aluminum angle material is not subject to the 2 diameter limit of the thinner
aluminum. They would use a 1 diameter test. In my case I had drilled off
center (late at night when most of the errors occur). I agree with Randall
H, give Van's a call.
Jay Jenkins, RV-8, s/n 80017
justjas(at)mn.frontiercomm.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paperwork--sale of plane |
You need a lawyer - I am not one. I would contact the EAA and also Van's
for their direct advice.
Please let the "list" know what the final word is!
Bruce
Planning to start RV6a after Osh.
>
>Does anyone know of any paper work I can down load
>from computer for sale contract or release of respon-
>sibility of a experimental aircraft. I have a buyer want-
>ing to purchase. If someone could e-mail me at
>mcomeaux(at)cmc.net I would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
>
>Mike Comeaux
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com!
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paperwork--sale of plane |
I am not a lawyer, but you need one. I have heqard this discussed in the
distant past and one idea was to unregister the aircraft and sell it as a
kit or parts. Again, you need a lawyer. Please enlighten the list when you
find out. I know of one fatal accident in Jackson MI about 5 - 6 years ago
that was caused by the wing of an RV 4 folding up. The fellow had purchased
the planew within the preceeding year. If interested, contact me on my
e-mail & I will try to find out any legal details from the locca
>
>Does anyone know of any paper work I can down load
>from computer for sale contract or release of respon-
>sibility of a experimental aircraft. I have a buyer want-
>ing to purchase. If someone could e-mail me at
>mcomeaux(at)cmc.net I would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
>
>Mike Comeaux
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com!
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paperwork--sale of plane |
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
An airplane is, of course, considered personal property ( not real
property) and therefor is subject to the Uniform Commercial Code adopted
in most, if not all, states. To disclaim any implied warranty of fitness
or suitability or merchantability you should state in the bill of sale or
other transfer document that the plane is sold and transferred AS IS and
WITH ALL FAULTS. Acceptance of the bill of sale by the buyer is the
buyer's agreement to this UCC disclaimer.
The FAA requires the use of its "form" bill of sale which is very short
and simple but does not provide space for the AS IS disclaimer. I have
simply written AS IS and WITH ALL FAULTS in the available space on this
form. Also you can use for your purposes a second bill of sale (not
delivered to the FAA, just exchanged between seller and buyer) which
states the terms of the sale and transfer more completely. In this
second document you might state all relevant facts e.g. the plane is
experimental, home built, the buyer has had full opportunity to inspect
it and has done so to the buyer's satisfaction, the buyer accepts the
plane based only on the basis of his/her inspection and not in reliance
upon any representation, statement or warranty made by the seller, the
buyer confirms that the seller had not made any representation or
warranty regarding the condition of the plane ( if this is a true
statement, if not state exactly and narrowly what representations are
made by the seller and be prepared to stand behind them), and the buyer
accepts the plane AS IS and WITH ALL FAULTS. Both the seller and buyer
should sign this bill of sale (make duplicate copies so both can have
final copies).
Also this wording typically does not give any protection to a seller who
is lying . If a seller has knowledge of any defect or adverse condition
(particularly if hidden from sight), then the seller should fully
disclose it to the buyer and have the buyer confirm the disclosure. The
AS IS etc. disclaimers do not protect sellers who have knowledge and hide
the potential problem.
You might try to negotiate a release of claims from the buyer. Typically
a release is binding only on the signing (releasing) party and not
binding on the spouse, kids, estate, etc.
Each state has slightly different laws regarding these matters. The
discussion above is only general in nature and if you are really
concerned you should consult with an experienced attorney in your state.
Using any type of universal form carries with it the risk that a
particular state requirement will not be covered adequately. Everyone
professes to hate attorneys but we all don't sue people and some of us
really to try to assist clients in handling their business affairs
hopefully in a manner than eliminates or reduces the risks that have
always existed in any society (some people will lie, cheat and take
advantage, but only a few). The problem is you must assume the worse to
adequately protect yourself. If everyone was honest , open and
trustworthy, attorneys, judges, juries, mediators, arbitrators, etc would
be out of work which would be great for society, but this is not going
to happen.
Hope this short course is helpful to you in the sale of your plane.
J. E. Rehler RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Gear Mount - False Spar Method |
RV List,
I corresponded with Dennis off-line, but this may be of interest to the
remainder of the group, so I am attaching my comments and reposting.
-Gene Gottschalk
N700RV, skinning fuselage.
Dennis,
Thanks for the reply! This is pretty close to what I was thinking. Below
are a few additional thoughts.
I noticed that when I assembled my wings that the Phlogistin pre-drilled
holes were less than perfect. The rivet lines were not straight, wing ribs
did not align properly at the specified position, and as near as I could
tell, the holes were not perpendicular to the spar face either. The reason
I felt the holes were not straight is that when placing the 3/16 rivets
into the spar assembly I noticed the heads would show a little gap under
one side prior to setting. Since the wing spar pieces were drilled in
assemble this did not present a problem assembling the spars. The biggest
concern I had was the possible variances in hole location if I drill the
substitute wooden spar perpendicular on the drill press and the holes
through the spar are not perfectly perpendicular through the thickness of
all the spar stiffeners and doubler plate.
A little trick I used while drilling the motor mount to the firewall was to
use telescoping pieces of brass tubing purchased at the local hobby shop. I
was concerned about enlarging or elongating the motor mount weldmount holes
drilling through them with a 3/8 inch drill bit. I telescoped the hole size
down to 1/8 inch using about 7 or 8 pieces of tubing, and then used
progressively larger drill bits to ream out the hole through the original
1/8 inch pilot hole. This results in minimal wear to the weld mount as only
the last 1/32 inch of reaming actually touches the inside of the welded
tube. It also finds the center accurately. The same thing could be done
with the gear leg brackets. I thought about drilling only a couple of holes
just to locate the mounts accurately, saving the remainder for final
assembly, in case I need to make a slight adjustment. Your concern here is
access to the weldmounts after the floor is riveted?
-Gene
>
>Several builders have asked for more detail on the false spar method of 6A
>gear mount drilling. It saves time and, most importantly, saves space,
>because it does not require wing insertion. The procedure below is based on
>a method described to me by 6A builder Scott Johnson. Scott used it
>successfully and he reported that his mounts fit the wing spar perfectly
>when he installed the wings during final assembly.
>
>
>1. Measure spar thickness.
>2. Get suitable wood of identical thickness; a planer will be required.
I
>glued together two pieces of marine plywood and planed them. If the wood is
>not of identical thickness as the spar, the holes in the longeron will be
>displaced by an amount equal to the difference between the false spar and
>the real spar. This can be compensated by drilling the holes in the
>longeron undersized, and drilling to final size when the wing is finally
>inserted. Drilling larger holes when the two mating holes are slightly
>offset can create elongated holes, so try to get the thicknesses equal.
>3. Saw wood to same outline as spar from root to about 6 inches beyond
>fuselage sides.
>4. Obtain long center drills from Avery: 3/16 and 1/4; a standard-length
>3/8 center drill is useful as well for the largest spar holes; else use a
>transfer punch. Center drills have only a special "starting point" and the
>rest is a smooth shaft.
>5. Rout slots in wood false spars to clear rivets in spar.
>6. Clamp false spar to real spar and drill in alignment with center drills;
>just start hole; transfer punches can be used to transfer hole centers if
>center drills are not available, but the center drill method is more
>accurate.
>7. Finish drill in drill press to ensure perpendicularity.
>8. Use the false spar with splice plates to hold the F604 rigidly while
>drilling cabin seat ribs; the F604 can easily be deflected from
>straightness by the force of unequal length ribs.
>9. After installing the platenuts in the F604, rout grooves so the false
>spar can be slipped over them for gear mount drilling.
>10. False spars can now be used to drill the landing gear mounts and later
>serve as outriggers to which legs can be clamped when the fuselage is
>removed from the jig.
>11. Drill landing gear mounts with a 12-inch long modified #12 drill from
>Avery. Grind down the flutes 1 1/8 inch beyond the tip so the F604 will
>not be contacted by the full drill diameter. The false spar serves as a
>sacrificial drill guide. The holes in the F604 are not enlarged because
>the drill diameter has been reduced in this region of contact.
>
>The measurements below were made with a Smart Level Pro and were repeatable
>to the same value or at most 0.1 degree difference on successive
>measurements. Thus leg angles would measure 45.5 degrees on 4 out of 5
>attempts and 45.6 on the non-agreeing measurement. The "leg angle" is the
>angle measured with the level resting unsupported along the leg. It is a
>measure of symmetry.
>I tried to get the legs perfectly level but finally accepted the 0.2 degree
>tilt. This will cause one wheel to be about 1/4 inch lower than the other
>over a 86 inch tread width. The legs didn't seem to go where I thought
>they would when I made adjustments. The mounts can be either displaced
>vertically or rotated to effect levelness. I found that rotating
>introduced other alignment problems and the vertical displacement range was
>rather limited. After about five attempts I concluded that 0.2 degrees was
>as level as I could get without some complicated shimming.
>
>Measurement on my clamped gear mount geometry per SK-63.
>
>Parameter Measured Value Spec
>Levelness 0.2 degree right side low Level
>Right leg angle 45.5 degrees N/A
>Left leg angle 44.7 degrees
N/A
>Spacer-gage right 25/32 inch 23/32
- 24/32
>Spacer-gage left 25/32 inch 23/32
- 24/32
>Toe-in right 3/32 inch 2/32
>Toe-in left 3/32
2/32
>Alignment angle right 8.3 degrees 7-8 degrees
>Alignment angle left 7.3 degrees
7-8 degrees
>
>Shims were required: 0.032 against right spar; 0.125 on left forward pad.
>
>Dennis Persyk
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com!
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
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> +--
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
>>I've always wondered, what is the real difference in conventional and HVLP
>>paint guns.
>I'm not an expert, but due to the lower pressure, the HVLP gun atomizes the
>paint into larger droplets. This results in less misc paint being blown
>around, and less overspray.
>If you are using a Croix-style HVLP gun with a turbine, the turbine heats
>the air. Thus, if you are shhoting a paint (like Imron) that uses
>different reducers for different temperature ranges, you probably need to
>go to the next hotter (slower) reducer.
The Croix factory recommends thinning and reducing to a slower-drying mix.
Orange peel is an indication of: under reduction, improper thinning solvent,
improper flow from the gun, improper air pressure or surface-drying too fast
(take your pick). Sometimes it helps to visit your paint dealer and ask if
they have any returned stock (similar to what you will be using) they will
sell for less than usual. Take that out and shoot a quart or two at some
scrap auto fenders or other metal and get the settings for the gun down.
HVLP guns have different settings than used for a standard gun and it takes
Experimentation to get it right. They are great once you figure them out
but it is frustrating in the meantime. I wouldn't practice on something I
was planning on anyone seeing.
Have fun..........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | rv-list pin, hat, t-shirt, whatever |
A while ago there was discussion of an rv-list hat, t-shirt, pin, patch,
or whatever that people could use to identify themselves at fly-ins and
such. At that time I volunteered to work something up. I recently got
a query about how that's going so I figured I'd better fess up -- I have
kind of put it on the back burner for now. I may yet get to it but I
guess it isn't going to happen by Oshkosh like I had hoped.
In the mean time if anyone else wants to do it instead that's fine with
me. Feel free to contact me privately and I'll give you what I've come
up with so far. Otherwise I may yet get to it but not for a while.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Gall's and Wheelen power supply |
I have a little more info on one of the power supplies available from
Gall's. There are different models of higher wattage or for more heads
but that is the main difference. I have also requested a wiring diagram
and if possible I will post that as well.
Here ya go.
Gall's Inc.
2680 Palumbo Dr.
Lexington, KY 40555-4308
1-800-477-7766
Wheelen Power Supply
Model# U-GR083
Price New $99.99
Price reman. $74.99
5 year warranty on new units
90 days on reman units.
Input Voltage - 12.0 - 28VDC
Input Current - 5.5 amps
Flash Rate - 120 per minute
Size - 2 1/8 x 5 1/4 x 6"
Weight - approx. 1 -2 lbs
Supports up to 6 individual strobe heads @ 45 Watts each.
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | justjas(at)mn.frontiercomm.net |
| Subject: | Paperwork--sale of plane |
Mr. Rehler said it correctly - "The problem is you must assume the worse to adequately
protect yourself. If everyone was honest , open and trustworthy, attorneys,
judges, juries, mediators, arbitrators, etc would be out of work which
would be great for society, but this is not going to happen."
You have to start this analysis with the understanding that you absolutely can
not stop someone from filing a complaint naming you as a defendant. If an accident
or incident occurs and you are sued, the court system within the U.S. will
be inclined to compensate the widow and children of the dear departed (not
so well informed) operator / buyer of the aircraft. Depending on the circumstances,
the court may go to extremes to find liability. Liability means dollars
($) and the only way to avoid the hit is to have dollars ($$) available. The
best way to have dollars available is to have insurance (but I'm getting ahead
of myself).
Mr. Rehler gave everyone the short course on UCC warranty disclaimers (and you
should, additionally, disclaim all express and implied warranties in any sale
document) and a small bit on releases. In addition to disclaiming warranties
and obtaining a release, there are a couple of other things you should have your
attorney put in the sale document (because the more defenses you have available,
the better your chances are of avoiding liability ($$$)). Here are the
additional things I would have my attorney put in any sale document (signed by
the buyer): (1) an acknowledgment from the buyer that buyer understands the aircraft
is a homebuilt aircraft, built by someone that is not a professional in
aircraft construction [delete if inappropriate], certified by the FAA in the
experimental category and that buyer accepts any and all risks associated with
such status; (2) an acknowledgement from buyer that the aircraft has been thoroughly
inspected by a competent, knowledgable person!
and found to be acceptable in all respects; (3) an indemnification from buyer
indemnifying seller for everything that has occurred since the creation of time;
and (4) [THIS IS THE DOLLAR ($) PART] a requirement that buyer obtain insurance
naming seller as an additional insured under the policy and insuring the
indemnifcation set forth in the sale document.
The sale document with all these provisions will be several pages long and will
appear very imposing to your ordinary "run of the mill" buyer, but this is the
best way to both sell your aircraft and attempt to avoid liability for the unthinkable.
Make sure you use an attorney that understands these issues and have
a buyer that understands you don't want any problems after the sale is complete
(and that is the reason for all this "stuff").
Jay Jenkins, RV-8 s/n 80017 (Emp)
justjas(at)mn.frontiercomm.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron B. Ward" <bbward(at)tardis.svsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Fly-in (not RV related) |
I would like to welcome everyone to our EAA Chapter 597 Dawn Patrol on
Sunday July 13. It is at Chesaning, MI (50G) airport. Great food, clown
and face painting for kids, door prizes, etc. Also there will be a parade
later. No fuel on the field however. Any questions please email me. Sorry
for straying off topic
Byron Ward
bbward(at)tardis.svsu.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy William Benedict <jbenedic(at)uofport.edu> |
| Subject: | Van's New Web Site |
Don't just read it
EXPERIENCE IT
www.vansaircraft.com
July 1, 1997
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alex.peterson(at)deltec.com> |
| Subject: | 6A Gear Mount - False Spar Method |
Regarding drilling the 6A gear mounts without having the wings in the
fuselage:
I also noted the problem of the holes thru the spar being out of
perpendicularity. As was already pointed out, this causes alignment
problems when the spar dummies are match drilled to the spars. One can
minimize this problem if the spar dummies are made with an aluminum or
steel plate (.040 or so) as the forward-most laminate. Clamp just this
plate against the forward side of the actual wing spar, and then match
drill it to the spar. Once drilled, clamp or fasten it to the remaining
spar dummy wooden laminates (I used 5/8" maple plywood from a die
cutting shop) and drill (aft-ward, with a drill press) thru this plate.
The holes in the aft side of the spar dummy may be slightly mis-aligned
with the holes in F604, but the aft end of the holes in the dummy spars
can be opened up without causing any problems. The goal here is that
the hole locations in the forward side of the dummies match the holes in
the forward side of the actual spars. Also, once the gear mounts were
aligned, I located and drilled only 2 holes in each mount thru the dummy
spars. These two holes will be used to locate the mounts on the actual
spars (not in fuse.) for drilling the remainder of the holes.
Another tip for those building 6A's in the wing or pre-spar stage:
Several holes (I recall about 4 in each spar, check the dwgs) need to be
enlarged to 1/4" for the gear mounts. Align the spar parts with the
appropriate F604 bulkhead parts and drill/ream as an assembly. I
believe this is much easier than doing so in the fuselage.
Alex Peterson -6A seat bottoms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougm(at)mailhost.physio-control.com (Doug Medema) |
| Subject: | Re: Van's New Web Site |
Jeremy:
I've looked at most of it and it is a BIG improvement. Thanks for
putting the complete optional parts catalog on line!
Check it out folks!
Doug Medema, RV-6A, skinning fuselage.
> From uofport.edu!jbenedic(at)matronics.com Tue Jul 1 16:18:21 1997
> Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 12:29:43 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jeremy William Benedict <uofport.edu!jbenedic(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Van's New Web Site
> Mime-Version: 1.0
>
>
>
> Don't just read it
>
> EXPERIENCE IT
>
> www.vansaircraft.com
>
> July 1, 1997
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll wrote:
>
>
>
**snip**
>
I know of one fatal accident in Jackson MI about 5 - 6 years
> ago
> that was caused by the wing of an RV 4 folding up. The fellow had
> purchased
> the planew within the preceeding year. If interested, contact me on my
> e-mail & I will try to find out any legal details from the locca
>
Are you sure that it was a RV-4? I have not heard of a -4 or -6
looseing a wing.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
I can't find anything in the archives related to Gall.
Please furnish phone number.
Phil Rogerson
6AQ 60057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
I asked:
> Here's a question I've been wondering about. Why do we use different
> relays for Master and Starter? Why not use another master relay as the
> starter relay?
"Doug Rozendaal" replied:
>It has to do with contiuios vs intermittent duty cycle. The master relay
>is optimized for long duty cycles. The starter relay contacts are designed
>to accept the high starting loads of a starter. It would work but it would
>fail sooner if you used a master relay as a starter.
But during starting, the current flow is thru the Master relay, then thru
the starter relay to the starter. So during starting, the master relay is
handling the same starting load as the starter relay.
So I still don't understand.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
I want to thank everyone for the info and I will be
discussing this with a attorney that I have located
here close by that has performed this type of sale
before. I also recieved a lot of info from the eaa.
Regards-------Mike Comeaux RV6QB real soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
I plan on equiping my RV-8 for IFR travel. In looking at other RV's, I
don't think I have ever seen static wicks on any. For those of you who f=
ly
IFR, do you have static wicks installed? How have you decided where and h=
ow
many to install? If not, is static a problem with your com radios?
I'm getting ready to close up my rudder and thought it might be good to p=
ut
the wicks on at that time. =
Thanks for your help
Scott
RV-8
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
Jerry,
At the time I was told that the wing on the RV4 folded back and hit the
pilot in the head and he was instantly killed begfore the plane hit the
ground. I lived in Jackson MI at the time and was vaguely acquainted with
the fellow in question. He had purchased the plane to learn acrobatics and
was returning from his practice area at the time of the mishap. I will try
to contact the EAA boys up there and double check my memory.
Bruce.
>
>Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll wrote:
>>
>>
>>
> **snip**
>>
> I know of one fatal accident in Jackson MI about 5 - 6 years
>> ago
>> that was caused by the wing of an RV 4 folding up. The fellow had
>> purchased
>> the planew within the preceeding year. If interested, contact me on my
>> e-mail & I will try to find out any legal details from the locca
>>
>Are you sure that it was a RV-4? I have not heard of a -4 or -6
>looseing a wing.
>--
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com!
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
aol.com!PhilipR920(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I can't find anything in the archives related to Gall.
>
> Please furnish phone number.
>
> Phil Rogerson
> 6AQ 60057
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
I posted the entire address this am. Here it is again:
Gall's Inc.
2680 Palumbo Dr.
Lexington, KY 40555-4308
1-800-477-7766
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Switch |
All the usual sources for oil pressure switches seem to have only the
normally open switch. Where can one find a normally closed switch?
I think a normally closed oil pressure switch hooked up to a buzzer would
do well as a " master switch on" warning setup.
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, working on instrument panel mockup.
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paperwork (off subject) |
Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll wrote:
>
>
> Jerry,
> At the time I was told that the wing on the RV4 folded back and hit
> the
> pilot in the head and he was instantly killed begfore the plane hit
> the
> ground. I lived in Jackson MI at the time and was vaguely acquainted
> with
> the fellow in question. He had purchased the plane to learn acrobatics
> and
> was returning from his practice area at the time of the mishap. I will
> try
> to contact the EAA boys up there and double check my memory.
>
> Bruce.
>
Hi Bruce
I did a little checking myself in the NTSB reports in LANDINGS
and found the RV in question Aug. 6, 1992, at Jackson, MI it was
a RV-3. Living here as close as I do to Van's I usually hear about any
problems with RV's plus they are always very conscientious about
getting the word out about problems as they get the facts.
I have only heard of one RV-4 breakup and that was a horizontal
stab. and as far as *I know* it is still in the preliminary stage of
investigation.
Fly safe
Jerry
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Tom Glover" <tglovebox(at)bc.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR - Headsets Inc... |
L. Coats wrote:
>
>
>
> Ok, another question, can you use the ANR in the Flightcom Blackhawk
> headsets or Flightcom Nighthawks. Is there a list that could be put on the
> list for further reference for the other head set types?
>
> L.Coats RV6 193hr
>
>Answer: I don't know. I am not familiar with either of those models.
The information I have is old stuff now, but I'll give you what I have. This is
taken
directly from the installation instructions as I have them.
"some headsets have an obstruction inside one earcup.
DC 13.4 has obstruction (nylon nut) in left earcup, requiring shallower left earpiece.
FlightCom model 5DX has p.c. board in left earcup, requiring shallower left earpiece.
Eclipse model does not fit.
Softcom C-60 has large volume control in right earcup which must be removed.
Also has PTT switch in right earcup, must be disconnected.
Hush-a-Com has printed circuit in left earcup, must be removed. This p.c. board
has
no components on it and acts as junction board and it may be removed."
I have not used the "shallower earpiece"
In my own experience, they fit and work well in older Clarks, and are particularly
well suited to the FlightCom 4DX. That's what I used for a "demonstrator" which
the demonstratee decided to keep. I have installed them in my own Telex
EBM-1400, and suspect that they will fit easily in the DBM-1000 model.
Two recommendations:
1. Gel ear seals are recommended. I prefer the liquid ones; they seal well.
2. Large ear seals (a la Oregon Aero) can disrupt the operation of the ANR adapters.
They prefer the smallest possible volume of air next to the ear.
In my own opinion, I feel that it requires some electronic expertise to install
these adapters. Small soldering irons, small cutters and seizers (haemostats?)
are
necessary to do the job. It's finnicky trying to install these things on the
ends of short, tiny wires half-way inside the earcup. It's real easy to melt the
unexpected. The trick, if you are electronically challenged, is to find a buddy
who
is into doing this stuff to do it for you. It takes me about an hour to do these
things. Although I'm sure that others can do it quicker, I take my time and try
to
avoid misteaks (especially when the headset owner is watching).
I'd like to compare some of the other high-end headsets with the Headsets Inc.
adapters in flight. Getting suppliers to give out headsets just for tests, however,
is unlikely. I will be at Arlington on Saturday, if anyone would like to
try out my Telex 1400's. I don't know how we could get together, but I
suppose we could meet at the RV Barbecue area at a certain time.
It's a good possibility that Paige Brittain from Headsets, Inc. will be
at Arlington, also. That's where I first met him a few years ago. For current
information on their adapters and what they fit, I recommend calling
Headsets, Inc. at:
(806) 358-6336, Fax (806) 358-6449
Are they worth it? Yes, I reiterate, they are a good value. The difference
between switch off and switch on is surprising, and they don't break the bank.
Disclaimer: I don't work for Headsets, Inc., although I do accept hard
currency in exchange for supplying and installing these ANR adapters for my
friends and acquaintences. I'm not getting rich... Honest! I'm trying to build
an RV-6!
Apologies for being long-winded, Esteemed Keepers of the list.
73,
Tom Glover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)mindspring.com> |
Dave Barnhart wrote:
>
>
> Here's a question I've been wondering about. Why do we use different
> relays for Master and Starter? Why not use another master relay as the
> starter relay?
>
> Best Regards,
> Dave Barnhart
> rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
> engine being assembled by Lycon
>
Dave,
I will probably regret posting this from home without first going to the
hanger and inspecting Master and Starter Relays as supplied by Van's.
I think the Master relay has both the relay contactor and the one side
of the coil connected directly to the terminal labled 'BAT'. This
allows activation of the master by simply grounding the control
terminal. This is convenient, because without the Master relay on,
where you gonna get 12V to energize the coil of a more conventional
relay? I think the starter relay is more convential - i.e. apply 12V to
the control terminal to close the contactors.
Blake
(corrections welcome - my relays are bolted on but not wired up yet)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
> But during starting, the current flow is thru the Master relay, then thru
> the starter relay to the starter. So during starting, the master relay is
> handling the same starting load as the starter relay.
>
> So I still don't understand.
>
> Best Regards,
> Dave Barnhart
The master relay and the starter contactor both CARRY the starter
current, but the starter contactor has to BREAK it. To avoid
destructive arcing as the contacts break the heavy current, the
contactor has to open rapidly. Thus it has a heavy spring. Thus it
needs a heavy coil current to pull it in. Thus it has a lower
resistance coil than the master relay. In comparison, the master
relay is called on to break only relatively light loads. To
corroborate this, look at AC switch ratings. Much smaller contacts
are used. They are adequate to CARRY the current. However when they
BREAK the current, the arc extinguishes in less than 8.3 millisecs
(60Hz) as the current drops to zero and reverses. No arc, no damage.
Hope this sheds some light.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <"Fran Malczynski"@ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall Strobe light Power Supply |
aol.com!PhilipR920(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I can't find anything in the archives related to Gall.
>
> Please furnish phone number.
>
> Phil Rogerson
> 6AQ 60057
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
I found Gall's in the archives using an apostrophe "s" in the search.
Their number is 800-477-7766. Hope this helps.
Fran Malczynski
Olcott, NY
RV6(A) Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Security Warning?!? |
Hello Listers:
I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and received
the following message:
============================
National Security Agency
The network you are trying to download information from has received enough
traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country. Apparantly,
the file you requested is in great demand.
Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have
caused.
National Security Agency
United States of America
=============================
Is this for real? I've _never_ received any message like this before. If it
is for real then I guess it's just a testament to the popularity of this
list and Van's airplanes. It's pretty spooky though... I'm not sure I like
the government in the business of controlling how many "hits" a web site
can have. Big brother's watching!
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
The contacts on the master relay are made at that time. a switch of any
kind can carry many multiples of the current it can "make" or start. To
say it another way, there will be a big spark in the starter relay when you
energize it but no spark in the master relay at all at that time because it
is already "made". When you turn the master on there is very little
current at all. Hope this helps...
Tailwinds, RV-4 N240
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
----------
> From: Dave Barnhart <a.crl.com!barnhart(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Why?
> Date: Monday, June 30, 1997 3:35 PM
>
>
> I asked:
>
> > Here's a question I've been wondering about. Why do we use different
> > relays for Master and Starter? Why not use another master relay as the
> > starter relay?
>
> "Doug Rozendaal" replied:
>
> >It has to do with contiuios vs intermittent duty cycle. The master
relay
> >is optimized for long duty cycles. The starter relay contacts are
designed
> >to accept the high starting loads of a starter. It would work but it
would
> >fail sooner if you used a master relay as a starter.
>
> But during starting, the current flow is thru the Master relay, then thru
> the starter relay to the starter. So during starting, the master relay
is
> handling the same starting load as the starter relay.
>
> So I still don't understand.
>
> Best Regards,
> Dave Barnhart
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's New Web Site |
Seems like someone has hacked the web site. I just tried to access the site
and received the following msg:
"500 Server Error
The hard transfer limit for this user has been reached"
Earlier when I tried to access it I received something about NSA and a
security risk. What gives?
-Gene
Medema)
>
>Jeremy:
>
>I've looked at most of it and it is a BIG improvement. Thanks for
>putting the complete optional parts catalog on line!
>
>Check it out folks!
>
>Doug Medema, RV-6A, skinning fuselage.
>
>
>> From uofport.edu!jbenedic(at)matronics.com Tue Jul 1 16:18:21 1997
>> Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 12:29:43 -0700 (PDT)
>> From: Jeremy William Benedict <uofport.edu!jbenedic(at)matronics.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Van's New Web Site
>> Mime-Version: 1.0
>>
>>
>>
>> Don't just read it
>>
>> EXPERIENCE IT
>>
>> www.vansaircraft.com
>>
>> July 1, 1997
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> +--
--+
>> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com! |
>> | ---
|
>> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
>> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
>> +--
--+
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com!
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Switch |
Ronald Vandervort wrote:
All the usual sources for oil pressure switches seem to have only the
normally open switch. Where can one find a normally closed switch?
I think a normally closed oil pressure switch hooked up to a buzzer
would
do well as a " master switch on" warning setup.
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, working on instrument panel mockup.
Seattle area
Ron,
Most automotive oil pressure switches are normally open. Quality is a
big issue with using automotive oil pressure switches in your RV. The
majority of auto oil pressure switches are comprised of a steel base and
a composite (usually Bakelite) top piece. The two parts are crimped
together with a gasket or o-ring to seal between them. It is not
uncommon for this seal to fail on older/high mileage cars. This causes a
serious (pressure fed) oil leak.
The failures are often due to chafing of the gasket/o-ring because of
different rates of thermal expansion of the dissimilar materials used in
the two halves. The increased heat & vibration found in aircraft engine
bays will only excerbate the problem.
Look for an all steel oil pressure sending unit, preferably one used in
a "police special", as these cars used higher quality components. I seem
to remember Chrysler using all steel units in the 1970's. I would also
check Mercedes Benz and BMW.
Good luck,
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 H.S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Switch |
<< All the usual sources for oil pressure switches seem to have only the
normally open switch. Where can one find a normally closed switch?
I think a normally closed oil pressure switch hooked up to a buzzer would
do well as a " master switch on" warning setup. >>
Get one of the Datcon switches from Chief Aircraft. It is a SPDT type
switch. See the Yeller Pages for ph#.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott M. Kuebler" <keebs(at)buffnet.net> |
| Subject: | Clarence, NY fly-in (not RV related) |
Hello fellow listers,
My airport is having their annual fly-in on Saturday, July 12th. There
will be food & drinks, EAA chapter 656 is also located at there. This
is not an RV fly-in, but we do have two RV-6's being built at the
airport. So the more RV's that show up the better it will be, I hope to
be skinning my HS by then (starting the skeleton this weekend).
For everybody interested I have included some airport information
below, anybody needing driving directions can send me a personal
E-mail. Hope to see some RV's there.
Scott
RV-6 (19 hrs. done - 1981 hrs. to go)
_____________________________________________________________________
D51 - CLARENCE AERODROME AIRPORT
BUFFALO, NY
AIRPORT INFORMATION CURRENT AS OF 01/30/97
LOCATION
Lat/Long: 43-04-00.208N / 078-40-59.109W (43.0667244/78.6830858)
Elevation: 582 ft. / 177 m (estimated)
Variation: 10W (1985)
>From city: 5 miles NE of BUFFALO, NY
County: ERIE
AIRPORT OPERATIONS
Sectional chart: DETROIT
Control tower: no
ARTCC: CLEVELAND CENTER
FSS: BUFFALO FLIGHT SERVICE STATION [1-800-WX-BRIEF]
Attendance: UNATNDD
Segmented circle: no
Airspace analysis: NO OBJECTION
Lights: RDO-CTL
ACTVT LIRL RY 10/28 - 122.7.
Beacon: none
Landing fee: no
Airline operations: not certified under FAR Part 139
Int'l operations: not permitted
AIRPORT COMMUNICATIONS
UNICOM: 122.7
Radio aids to navigate to the Airport
VOR radial/distance VOR name Freq Var
BUFr357/8.4 BUFFALO VOR/DME 116.40 08W
AIRPORT SERVICES
Fuel available: 80
Airframe service: MAJOR
Powerplant service: MAJOR
RUNWAY INFORMATION
Runway 10/28
Dimensions: 2000 x 75 ft. / 610 x 23 m
Surface: turf, in unknown condition
Runway edge lights: low intensity
RUNWAY 10 RUNWAY 28
Traffic pattern: left left
Displaced threshold: no no
Touchdown point: no no
OBSTRUCTIONS: PLINE TREES
Marked: 1
Height: 10 ft. 35 ft.
Slope to clear: 1:1
Distance from threshold:200 ft. 0
Additional obstruction remarks: PLINE 900' FM THR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Tim,
Sorry to return to the whole list but the direct mail was returned. The
answer is yes leaving in the false spar will work fine. The airplane will
ride fine on the gear. The 6A will just fit width wise in the Ryder 24'
truck. You dont need the full length of the 24' truck but you do need the
width. Wings will tie to the rails on the sides with straps and padding. For
some reason even a direct reply to you is returned to me. Good luck.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Moving a partially complete RV-6A |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
>In a few months I'm probably going to have to move from San Antonio
>TX to Washington D.C. (Pentagon assignment). I'm building a
>quickbuild, and wondering about the best, safest way to move it.
Tim,
I recently moved my RV-4 project from Del Rio, TX to Oklahoma City. All
the components were finished, but the airplane was not yet on the gear
and had no engine. I strapped the fuselage down firmly on a cradle along
one side of the largest Ryder truck (24', I think). I used ratcheting
strap clamps and eyebolts screwed into the floor to hold the fuselage
down. I rested both wings on a rolling dolly, leading edge down, tied to
the side rails of the truck on the other side Flaps and ailerons were
mounted and clamped immobile. The horizontal tail fit neatly in between
on its own vertical cradle, screwed into the wooden floor. The vertical
tail fit behind the fuselage, also in its own cradle, screwed to the
floor. The crate from the finishing kit fit nicely in the space behind
the wings. I screwed it to the floor and put fiberglass parts and other
odds and ends inside it. The large wing crate fit behind the fuselage,
screwed to the floor, and held tools and other heavy things I did not
want bouncing around. I still had plenty of room left over for the air
compressor and a few household items.
The move was uneventful, no damage at all. That truck really bounced
around on roads that I never thought bumpy in a car. Make sure that
nothing can bounce into your airplane. In retrospect, I probably went
overboard strapping everything down, but better that than the
alternative! With your 6A, especially on the gear, I expect space will
be more limited. I don't see a problem with setting it on the gear, as
long as the fuselage cannot move around or bounce.
My condolences on the Pentagon assignment. :-)
Good luck,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
P.S.
In reading my last post about the autopilot, it sounded more strident
than I intended. I don't mean to cast aspersion on anyone who wants to
install a wing leveler. One nice thing about a homebuilt is that we can
put anything on the airplane that our hearts desire! The topic just hit
one of my hot buttons. My apologies to Mr. Stucklen and all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Table - Van's Banquet |
<19970609.094312.15495.3.cecilth(at)juno.com>
Oshkosh is only a few weeks away now,
The following list is where we are at at this time.
If you don't see your name, and thought you were on it,
I didn't get the message, so send it again.
Cecil Hatfield
Tim Sweemer
Donna Sweemer
Jon Scholl
Friend of Jon Scholl
Jim Ayers
Jim Cone
Bev Cone
Peter Hanna
Les Rowles
Les Rowles' Mate
Joe Rex
Zelda Gifford
Bruce Knoll
Ted French
Jack French
Louis Willig
Marty Ssiler
Barbara Sailer
Ed Loveday
Richard Reynolds
The Banquet this year is Sunday evening starting at 6:30. Ticket cost
$20.00
Order your tickets from Vans before July 28. There will only be about 300
tickets available so first come first served. In the past, those that
order close to deadline can be picked up at Vans booth.
Again this summer, I plan to reserve a table for all us listers that go
to Van's Banquet, so we can get to know each other better.
We ended up having several no shows, and I felt embarrassed when
the
place is sold out and here I'm holding some vacant spots. So this year I
will strive to do better, by keeping the above sentence posted each time
I show the list to date, about once each week.
Thisyear we have about 300 more listers than last year, so I'm
guessing we
will have about 30 or so at our table.
So we don't clutter the list, send your name and the number in your party
to me at cecilth(at)juno.com
Before July 29th (when I leave for mecca), keep me posted if I
need to
remove your name.
Cecil Hatfield
Plans No. 23581 working on the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
Your kidding, right? I think the site must have been hacked. First, NSA is
not in the business of regulating the internet, second, it's hard for me to
believe that Van's would generate more traffic than any number of other
sites, take NASA for example!
-Gene Gottschalk
>
>Hello Listers:
>
>I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and received
>the following message:
>
>============================
>National Security Agency
>
>The network you are trying to download information from has received enough
>traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country. Apparantly,
>the file you requested is in great demand.
>
>Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have
>caused.
>
>National Security Agency
>United States of America
>=============================
>
>Is this for real? I've _never_ received any message like this before. If it
>is for real then I guess it's just a testament to the popularity of this
>list and Van's airplanes. It's pretty spooky though... I'm not sure I like
>the government in the business of controlling how many "hits" a web site
>can have. Big brother's watching!
>
>Rod Woodard
>Loveland, Colorado
>RV-8, #80033
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com!
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Warfield <KeithW(at)ncgwpc.syntellect.com> |
Dave,
The contact side of both the starter and master relay is the same
(master may have different current rating).The "difference" is on the
coil side of the relay (the part your master or starter switch is
attached to with small gauge wire). The impedance of the coil determines
how much current it draws. Current generates among other things, heat,
and it has to go somewhere. The master relay coil is higher impedance,
and therefore draws less current, and produces less heat, and lasts
longer than a starter relay, which draws much more current, generates
more heat, but physically has no better way to dissipate it than the
master relay (same physical size and shape), which if used continuously,
will shorten it's life.
Keith Warfield
RV-6A Emp./:(
> ----------
> From: Dave Barnhart[SMTP:a.crl.com!barnhart(at)matronics.com]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 1997 1:35 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Why?
>
>
> I asked:
>
> > Here's a question I've been wondering about. Why do we use
> different
> > relays for Master and Starter? Why not use another master relay as
> the
> > starter relay?
>
> "Doug Rozendaal" replied:
>
> >It has to do with contiuios vs intermittent duty cycle. The master
> relay
> >is optimized for long duty cycles. The starter relay contacts are
> designed
> >to accept the high starting loads of a starter. It would work but it
> would
> >fail sooner if you used a master relay as a starter.
>
> But during starting, the current flow is thru the Master relay, then
> thru
> the starter relay to the starter. So during starting, the master
> relay is
> handling the same starting load as the starter relay.
>
> So I still don't understand.
>
> Best Regards,
> Dave Barnhart
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
> http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
> "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
> subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
>I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and received
>the following message:
>
>============================
>National Security Agency...
>Is this for real?
I just got it too. Its got to be a hoax, did you notice the spelling errors?
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh 97 Schedule |
The following are the activities planned for Oshkosh. If you plan to
attend, this will help you schedule your activities. We would especially
like as many people to attend the gathering on Saturday evening as possible.
OSHKOSH
We continue to receive notes from RV pilots who plan to attend (too many to
list) and our goal of 250 airplanes looks achievable -- there may even be
more. We are planning a wild party in the RV aircraft parking area for
Saturday evening about 7 p.m. There will be an open bar, live hard rock
music, exotic dancers....yeah, sure. How about a "reception" with light
refreshments, etc. We certainly hope that RVers can stay for this gathering
- it may be the only real chance for factory personnel to meet
customer/friends and see the airplanes.
We need volunteers to man the hospitality tent in the RV parking area. Boy,
do we need them, particularly in the morning hours Wednesday through
Saturday. We have had some very attractive 25th Anniversary stickers made
to present to those who fly in (suitable for vertical stabilizers, etc.) and
we'd like to "register" arrivals by name and aircraft registration. This is
your chance to meet a bunch of interesting people and get a first look at
some fine airplanes. If you can volunteer a couple of hours, please contact
Ken Scott at Van's.
As a reminder, camping is not permitted in the RV showplane parking area,
just as it wasn't in our parking area during previous years. We may be able
to work out some camping arrangements, including setting up in Showplane
Camping, a few hundred yards to the south.
Details will be at the hospitality tent in the RV area. Camping fees and
registration requirements will be the same as for any other airplane camping.
The banquet will be at the Pioneer Inn Sunday, Aug. 3. Because of the
limited seating and the high demand, we recommend you order your tickets
early. Cut off date for orders from Van's is July 28. If there are any
tickets left, they will be available first come first served at Van's
Oshkosh booth.
Forums are: RV-3/4/8; Saturday, Aug. 2 11:30 am-12:45 p.m. Tent 3. RV-6/6A
Thursday, July 31, 10-11:15 am Tent 3.
An added Oshkosh note: Please do not bring your technical or building
questions to us in the booth. We are just not adequately equipped to give
you good service in this area. Bill/Ken
Bill Benedict G.M.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Security Warning?!? |
charset="iso-8859-1"
I'm sure the webserver Jeremy is using has a feature in it that will
display a customizable message when the connection limit has been
reached...and a dark sense of humor.
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Integrated Information Services, LLC
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
-----Original Message-----
From: RodWoodard [SMTP:mcione.com!rodwoodard(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 1997 8:02 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Security Warning?!?
Hello Listers:
I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and
received
the following message:
============================
National Security Agency
The network you are trying to download information from has
received enough
traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country.
Apparantly,
the file you requested is in great demand.
Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience
this may have
caused.
National Security Agency
United States of America
=============================
Is this for real? I've _never_ received any message like this
before. If it
is for real then I guess it's just a testament to the popularity
of this
list and Van's airplanes. It's pretty spooky though... I'm not
sure I like
the government in the business of controlling how many "hits" a
web site
can have. Big brother's watching!
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
+--
--+
| Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com! |
| ---
|
| To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
| & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text
or subject. |
+--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Bronson <70773.2700(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Hi Folks,
I
was the 561st hit since July 1st!
Tim Bronson
Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
RodWoodard wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers:
>
> I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and received
> the following message:
>
> ============================
> National Security Agency
>
> The network you are trying to download information from has received enough
> traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country. Apparantly,
> the file you requested is in great demand.
>
> Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have
> caused.
>
> National Security Agency
> United States of America
> =============================
>
> Is this for real? I've _never_ received any message like this before. If it
> is for real then I guess it's just a testament to the popularity of this
> list and Van's airplanes. It's pretty spooky though... I'm not sure I like
> the government in the business of controlling how many "hits" a web site
> can have. Big brother's watching!
>
> Rod Woodard
> Loveland, Colorado
> RV-8, #80033
>
Rod--
Relax...Van's only displays that message to lawyers. ;)
--Don McNamara
________________________________________________________________________________
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by InfoAve.Net
| From: | GIBBONSR.FTC-I.NET(at)InfoAve.Net (RB Gibbons) |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
I'm quite sure that this is an attempt at humor by Jeremy Benedict.
>
>Hello Listers:
>
>I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and received
>the following message:
>
>============================
>National Security Agency
>
>The network you are trying to download information from has received enough
>traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country. Apparantly,
>the file you requested is in great demand.
>
>Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have
>caused.
>
>National Security Agency
>United States of America
>=============================
>
>Is this for real? I've _never_ received any message like this before. If it
>is for real then I guess it's just a testament to the popularity of this
>list and Van's airplanes. It's pretty spooky though... I'm not sure I like
>the government in the business of controlling how many "hits" a web site
>can have. Big brother's watching!
>
>Rod Woodard
>Loveland, Colorado
>RV-8, #80033
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
RodWoodard wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers:
>
> I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and
> received
> the following message:
>
> ============================
> National Security Agency
>
> The network you are trying to download information from has received
> enough
> traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country.
> Apparantly,
> the file you requested is in great demand.
>
> Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may
> have
> caused.
>
> National Security Agency
> United States of America
> =============================
>
> Is this for real? I've _never_ received any message like this before.
> If it
> is for real then I guess it's just a testament to the popularity of
> this
> list and Van's airplanes. It's pretty spooky though... I'm not sure I
> like
> the government in the business of controlling how many "hits" a web
> site
> can have. Big brother's watching!
>
> Rod Woodard
> Loveland, Colorado
> RV-8, #80033
>
Try clicking on this, works for me.
<http://www.vansaircraft.com>
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
> >I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and
> received
> >the following message:
> >
> >============================
> >National Security Agency
[snip]I helped with the beta-test on Sunday and had no problems
accessing the site. But after reading Rod's message I just had to try
again, and got the NSA message too. One thing I noticed is that this
message is on the page http://www.vansaircraft.com/limits.html. My guess
is that Van's ISP limits the amount of traffic allowed, and that the
rush to see the new site and/or the added graphics has popped the relief
valve. Benedict Jr's sense of humour is also not entirely blameless, I
think. :-)
NB: I've Cc'ed this to Jeremy so hopefully soon he'll tell us all what's
going on.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
I got the same message - very bizarre.
>
>============================
>National Security Agency
>
>The network you are trying to download information from has received enough
>traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country. Apparantly,
>the file you requested is in great demand.
>
>Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have
>caused.
>
>National Security Agency
>United States of America
>=============================
>
>Is this for real? I've _never_ received any message like this before. If it
>is for real then I guess it's just a testament to the popularity of this
>list and Van's airplanes. It's pretty spooky though... I'm not sure I like
>the government in the business of controlling how many "hits" a web site
>can have. Big brother's watching!
>
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Empenage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Switch |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>All the usual sources for oil pressure switches seem to have only the
>normally open switch. Where can one find a normally closed switch?
>I think a normally closed oil pressure switch hooked up to a buzzer
>would do well as a " master switch on" warning setup.
I couldn't find an oil pressure switch with two sets of contacts (NO &
NC) as discussed previously on the list. However, I recently stumbled
onto something by accident.
I've been operating out of a short crushed gravel strip, and I've been
using a rough field takeoff to get the prop above the gravel as soon as
possible during takeoff (6A). Using one notch of flaps helps
tremendously, but it's also very easy to get involved in the takeoff and
forget to raise them in a timely manner. So I installed a microswitch at
the manual flap handle wired to a red light in the panel. The light is
off only when the flaps are fully retracted.
This works great for the flaps, but as a side benefit, it also works as a
master warning light. After landing, I always leave the flaps down to
facilitate exit and subsequent re-entry. (and to keep some bozo from
ignoring the "no step" decal and putting a size 11 hole in the flap)
Thus, the light stays illuminated until I turn off the master switch.
Sometimes things just seem to work out right...
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96 (100+ hours now!)
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
Robert Acker wrote:
>
>
> >I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and received
> >the following message:
> >
> >============================
> >National Security Agency...
> >Is this for real?
>
> I just got it too. Its got to be a hoax, did you notice the spelling errors?
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
At 3:24 pm Eastern, I accessed the Vans site via a LAN/T1 connection.
Other than being slow (our provider, I think) there was no problem. Are
you SURE you have the URL spelled right?
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Carb manual needed |
I need an overhaul manual for my Marvel carb on my O-320E2D. I have an
overhaul kit but need the specs for float adjustment, etc. Anybody have the
data? Is it on the Web someplace?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crass Commercialism) |
Gary,
I haven't a clue as to what this is so I want one. I can build an airplane but
I will probably have $10 worth of struggle out of this. The description makes
it sould like something for the Air Force for $10,000!
I assume they are warranteed and come with complete instructions.
You say they are formed for hydraulic? Do they come with fluid?
How do I pay? I do want one just to see what it is. (Seriously!)
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Asking the usual customer dingy questions.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
My R-410 has a "cut here line" drawn on it.The manual says to "make a
cardboard mock-up"Is this necassary?Is the line drawn on the R-410 accurate
enough?
Thanks in advance
Chris Marion
RV-6 finishing rudder
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | ANR - off subject |
I take my time and try to avoid misteaks
Thanks, you made my day! ;}
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us |
Several people have addressed a fatal crash:
> **snip**
> >
> I know of one fatal accident in Jackson MI about 5 - 6 years
> > ago
> > that was caused by the wing of an RV 4 folding up. The fellow had
> > purchased
> > the planew within the preceeding year.
> Are you sure that it was a RV-4? I have not heard of a -4 or -6
> looseing a wing.
I once spoke to the son of a man who was killed in an RV-3 crash
which I thought occurred under very similar circumstances - location,
recent purchase, wing fold during aerobatics. I had written the
fellow while looking for a good RV-3 and the son called me. That was
an RV-3. It may or may not be the same incident.
Joe Colquitt
RV-3A - flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
Rod;
I think its some plastic builders idea of a joke.
RVator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Switch |
Ed, Do you ever fly into some of the back mountain strips in Idaho? If so,
how does your RV6A perform taking off and landing in that type of environment?
Regards
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
>Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96 (100+ hours now!)
>ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
I didn't make a cardboard mock-up and my 410 fitted ok; although a
cardboard mock-up would probably help. If you have watched the new
Orindorf empannage video, he shows attaching the R410 to the wrong side of
the R405 so don't make that mistake. I read in the archives that the plans
were wrong when he made the tape. Also, be sure you attach the K1000 plate
nut to the R-405 "before" you put R404,R405,R606 together.
>
>My R-410 has a "cut here line" drawn on it.The manual says to "make a
>cardboard mock-up"Is this necassary?Is the line drawn on the R-410 accurate
>enough?
>Thanks in advance
>
>Chris Marion
>RV-6 finishing rudder
>cincy oh
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Switch |
----------
Ron,
Hobbs makes a suitable switch. The easiest way to get it is at a NAPA auto
parts store. Ask for NAPA part number 7011578. The Hobbs p/n is 76062 the
switch is normally closed and operates at 15 psi. It adjustable to operate
between 4 to 20 PSI. I think that the switch cost about $10 or less. I
use this switch for low oil pressure warning. If you need other specs I
have them Email direct.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
> All the usual sources for oil pressure switches seem to have only the
> normally open switch. Where can one find a normally closed switch?
>
> I think a normally closed oil pressure switch hooked up to a buzzer would
> do well as a " master switch on" warning setup.
>
> Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, working on instrument panel mockup.
> Seattle area
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 88 Fly-In |
Sorry for the late notice, but in case you're not aware of it and don't
have any other big plans this weekend, EAA Chapter 88 is having their
annual fly-in this weekend, July 4-6, at El Dorado, Kansas' Captain Jack
Thomas Airport (EQA). El Dorado is about 30 miles east-northeast of
Wichita, and the airport is about a mile or so south of town, just east of
the main north-south highway into El Dorado from the south. Usually have
quite a variety of aircraft there (and usually a bunch of RVs!!)...Friday
night is a pot-luck for Chapter members and guests; Saturday night is a
banquet in town. Usually a pretty good turnout of people and aircraft.
Hope to see you there!!
Bill Mills
Wichita
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
>> I just got it too. Its got to be a hoax, did you notice the spelling errors?
>> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>>
>At 3:24 pm Eastern, I accessed the Vans site via a LAN/T1 connection.
>Other than being slow (our provider, I think) there was no problem. Are
>you SURE you have the URL spelled right?
>PatK - RV-6A
Yes Pat, quite sure. Spelling is one of my stroungist points. Besides, it
was from my bookmarked URL list...only then did I try manually entering the URL.
I'm wondering if only those using a common ISP, or maybe even POP (never can
tell if someone hacked the RAS), got this message and were SOL for a bit?
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
Suscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crass Commercialism) |
<< I haven't a clue as to what this is so I want one. I can build an
airplane but
I will probably have $10 worth of struggle out of this. The description
makes
it sould like something for the Air Force for $10,000!
I assume they are warranteed and come with complete instructions.
You say they are formed for hydraulic? Do they come with fluid?
How do I pay? I do want one just to see what it is. (Seriously!) >>
Hal-
What makes you think I want to sell you something you don't yet know whether
or not you'll need?
What kind of capitalist pig do you take me for?
This is the joining piece for the top rear slider canopy skirt on the 6 and
6A. Send me $10 and you can have one too. No instructions are required as
you will know intuitively how to install it when you get to that point.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Mars on 4th of July |
Brian and Lynne Cooper have a Quickbuild kit. This list has people from
all walks of life and all over the world. Thought I would share we the
list what one of our members is up to this week.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>Cecil,
>Feel free to post this or pass it on - as long as the disclaimer
>is at the bottom. Thanks very much for your interest!
>--Lynne
>
>_______________________ Forward Header _______________________
>
>Subject: Earth "Invades" Mars on 4th of July
>Author: Lynne P Cooper
>Date: 6/30/97 1:12 PM
>
>On July 4th, 1997 Earth Invades Mars!
>
>June 27, 1997
>
>Dear Family, Friends, & Schoolmates,
>
>On July 4th, history will be made when the Mars Pathfinder
>spacecraft lands on the surface of Mars and deploys the
>first ever mobile robot on another planet. This incredibly
>exciting event is all the more exciting to us because Brian
>will be the first person ever to "drive" a vehicle on
>another planet. We're both thrilled to be part of these
>events (actually, Brian is part of them -- I'm just along
>for the ride!) and want very much to share our excitement
>with you!
>
>An incredible sequence of events leads up to the landing on
>the surface of Mars. Pathfinder is currently on an
>intercept course to Mars at a speed of ~15,000 mph.
>
>On July 4th at (Pacific Daylight Time):
>9:32 AM the Pathfinder Lander lander separates from the
> cruise stage. This is the capsule that has been
> protecting the Lander from the environment of
> Space during it's 7-month journey from Earth to
> Mars.
>
>10:02 AM Pathfinder enters the upper atmosphere of Mars at
> 16,6000 mph. Communications with the spacecraft
> will be limited to listening to a very simple
> signal from the spacecraft that will "sound"
> differently to the folks on earth receiving it as
> the spacecraft drastically reduces speed.
>
>During the next 4.5 minutes
> - The spacecraft rapidly slows down in the
> atmosphere using a heat shield to protect the
> spacecraft from very high temperatures (remember
> the old animations of the red hot temperatures
> that the Apollo capsule encountered when
> returning to Earth?)
> - The Parachute deploys. It's a very large
> parachute because the atmosphere on Mars is much
> less than on Earth.
> - The Heat shield separates, and the Lander (which
> looks like a closed up flower bud) descends on a
> bridle so that it is separated from the other
> parts of the capsule.
> - The Air Bags inflate. These air bags look a lot
> like an inflated cluster of grapes (though they
> aren't purple - just plain old off-white). They
> completely enclose the spacecraft. At this
> point, the whole thing looks like a really large
> parachute supporting an empty shell which has a
> long cord hanging out the bottom with a big
> cluster of inflated air bags. If any Martians
> are watching, they are bound to be amused!
> - Rockets fire to decrease the speed of the
> ensemble. The bridle cable is cut and the
> cluster of airbags drops to the surface of Mars.
> - It then bounces (maybe as high as a ten story
> building), rolls, and eventually comes to rest
> on the surface of Mars at approximately 10:07am.
>
>by 12:33PM The airbags deflate and are pulled up next to
> the Lander petals. Then the petals open - like a
> flower - exposing the Lander equipment and the
> Sojourner Rover to Mars for the first time.
>
>2:00 PM The sun rises on Mars and the solar panels that
> are on the inside of the petals begin collecting
> energy to power the spacecraft (there are also
> batteries) and the spacecraft is able to
> communicate with Earth
>
>2:09 PM We receive the first pictures of the surface of
> Mars and the actual landing site from Pathfinder.
>
>At this point, it's time for Brian and his co-workers to go
>to work. The Sojourner Rover is "parked" on one of the
>petals. The first big decision to make is whether/how to
>deploy the ramps that enable the Rover to drive off of the
>Lander. After they deploy the ramps, that's when "Robonaut"
>Brian Cooper will drive the rover off of the lander and onto
>the surface of Mars....and the rest is history!
>
>For Brian, this moment has been 12 years in the making --
>ever since he's come to the Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL),
>he's been working on technology to enable this to happen.
>It's almost impossible to explain how much this means to
>him. During the 3-1/2 years, he's been working specifically
>on Pathfinder and adapting work done for much bigger robotic
>vehicles (and even an Army Humvee) to work with the Rover.
>In less than a week, he'll have the opportunity to see the
>results of his (and everyone else on the project's) efforts.
>
>The excitement for this day has really been building since
>the launch of the spacecraft from Cape Canaveral in
>December. The national and international media have been on
>Lab talking to the Pathfinder folks -- and Brian has been
>one of the busiest. He's been interviewed by CNN, the BBC,
>CBS, Good Morning America, Discovery Channel, Nickelodean
>News, MacNeil/Lehrer Report, KCET/PBS Huell Howser (already
>aired in Los Angeles), Japan NHK, Newspapers from Orlando,
>Germany, Orange County, and Washington State, USA Today,
>Newsweek, US News & World Report, and others. (He's a
>star!).
>
>He has also been involved with special school
>projects with Cedarwood Elementary in Washington State (who
>issued him the first official Martian Driver's License, just
>recently signed by Vice President Al Gore), and Tampa Palms
>Elementary School, Florida (who had him drive their rover
>over the internet & sent him a whole package of Go Brian!
>artwork which is displayed outside his office). Silicon
>Graphics, the maker of the high-speed computers used to
>drive the Rover, made a news brief (featuring Walter
>Cronkite & "Robonaut" Brian Cooper!) that will be shown on
>United Airlines flights during July.
>
>I sincerely hope that you can join in the excitement. For
>more information, JPL has set up a great website that has
>lots of information and pictures. The first photos will be
>available through the web site really quickly and there will
>be camera images which will include the Rover Control area
>on the web. (http://www.jpl.nasa.gov/mars/). Also, I'm
>planning to send out email bulletins sharing some of our
>personal experiences. If you are interested - please send
>me your email address (and any news you have!) to
>lynne.p.cooper(at)jpl.nasa.gov.
>
>This is an experience of a lifetime for us and we really
>want to share it with the people we care about. If you know
>anything about Brian & me - it's that we really care about
>space exploration, education, and, er....high tech toys!
>
>We look forward to hearing from you!
>
>--Lynne & Brian Cooper
>
>p.s. This is the "Cooper-centric" view of Pathfinder -There
>are lots of people who are responsible for the success of
>the mission and Brian is part of a much larger operations and
>development team. (But since I'm the one writing this -- it's
>given from my personal viewpoint! --L)
>
>---------------------
>Copyright 1997 Lynne P. Cooper (portions of the timeline
>adapted from the Mars Pathfinder website)
>The views expressed within are the personal views of the
>author and do not reflect the views of NASA, JPL, or
>Caltech.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
writes:
>
>My R-410 has a "cut here line" drawn on it.The manual says to "make a
>cardboard mock-up"Is this necassary?Is the line drawn on the R-410
>accurate
>enough?
Chris,
I recommend making the cardboard pattern first. The R-410 is a complex
part that is difficult to envision from the plans (it was difficult for
me, anyway.) If you bend up a cardboard model you can see how all the
parts fit together. I don't remember whether I had to adjust the
pattern, but I don't think I did.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear, mounting brakes and wheel pants
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crass Commercialism) |
aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
I'm over a year away from needing that piece. Do you plan on making
future production runs?
Thanks
Brian Eckstein
6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
aol.com!BigCfly001(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> My R-410 has a "cut here line" drawn on it.The manual says to "make a
> cardboard mock-up"Is this necassary?Is the line drawn on the R-410 accurate
> enough?
> Thanks in advance
>
> Chris Marion
> RV-6 finishing rudder
> cincy oh
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
It worked fine for me
Brian Eckstein
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
To The List:
I stand corrected. It was an RV3 at Jackson Mi. Jerry, who raised the first
question, researched it, and found it was an RV3.
Bruce knoll
Hoping to start an RV6A after Oshkosh
>
>Several people have addressed a fatal crash:
>> **snip**
>> >
>> I know of one fatal accident in Jackson MI about 5 - 6 years
>> > ago
>> > that was caused by the wing of an RV 4 folding up. The fellow had
>> > purchased
>> > the planew within the preceeding year.
>
>> Are you sure that it was a RV-4? I have not heard of a -4 or -6
>> looseing a wing.
>
>I once spoke to the son of a man who was killed in an RV-3 crash
>which I thought occurred under very similar circumstances - location,
>recent purchase, wing fold during aerobatics. I had written the
>fellow while looking for a good RV-3 and the son called me. That was
>an RV-3. It may or may not be the same incident.
>
>Joe Colquitt
>RV-3A - flying
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
I am about to make a brake to bend my -8 rudder trailing edge. Looks lik=
e
a brake of just over 4' will work. Will this be sufficient for the futur=
e
(flaps, ailerons or other bends)?
Thanks
Scott 80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | fuel gauge senders |
This topic was discussed a couple of years ago, but I'm looking for an
update on peoples experiences using capacitance-type fuel senders vs. the
normal mechanical/resistance type.
The advangtages of the capacitance type seem to be that they are simple (no
moving parts), and poentially could provide more accurate readings over the
whole tank volume? The resistance type, on the other hand, are much
cheaper and more straightforward to install and calibrate?
I view fuel gauges as primarily "leak detectors", so I'm not overly
concerned with absolute accuracy. Fuel remaining is of course best
calculated by conservative time estimates, supported by fuel flow readings
if available. However, I do wonder if the mechanical arm of the resistance
sender might fail and become an annoying maintainance problem - is there
any history of this, or have they been generally reliable?
Thanks in advance,
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Empenage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------7EA64FAAC0FBE7AC98DFD416
> > I just got it too. Its got to be a hoax, did you notice the
> spelling errors?
> >
If there are spelling errors, it must be from the government
Don Mack RV-6A Just crossed the 1000 hour mark, only 1000 more to
go.......
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
--------------7EA64FAAC0FBE7AC98DFD416
begin: vcard
fn: Don Mack
n: Mack;Don
email;internet: donmack(at)flash.net
note: http://www.flash.net/~donmack
end: vcard
--------------7EA64FAAC0FBE7AC98DFD416--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
Come on guys, this is a joke.
Chris
>
>
> >> I just got it too. Its got to be a hoax, did you notice the spelling errors?
> >> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
> >>
> >At 3:24 pm Eastern, I accessed the Vans site via a LAN/T1 connection.
> >Other than being slow (our provider, I think) there was no problem. Are
> >you SURE you have the URL spelled right?
> >PatK - RV-6A
>
> Yes Pat, quite sure. Spelling is one of my stroungist points. Besides, it
> was from my bookmarked URL list...only then did I try manually entering the URL.
>
> I'm wondering if only those using a common ISP, or maybe even POP (never can
> tell if someone hacked the RAS), got this message and were SOL for a bit?
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Brake |
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
>
>
>
> I am about to make a brake to bend my -8 rudder trailing edge. Looks
> like
> a brake of just over 4' will work. Will this be sufficient for the
> future
> (flaps, ailerons or other bends)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott 80331
> N733JJ
>
Scott, hi
I don't think that is long enough, the RV-8 ailerons are 54". The flaps
are 61", but if I remember correctly they are pre-bent and don't require
any further bending.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel gauge senders |
> if available. However, I do wonder if the mechanical arm of the
resistance
> sender might fail and become an annoying maintainance problem - is there
> any history of this, or have they been generally reliable?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
>
> Alan Carroll
> RV-8 #80177 (Empenage)
Hi Alan:
I have no experience with the type of float fuel senders that Van's sells,
but my experience with the float-type senders on my Cherokee was poor. I
eventually had to replace the float and the little arm the float attaches
to in both the left and right tanks of the Cherokee. Of course, the plane
_was_ 28 years old. The logs never showed any previous replacement, but I
could imagine somebody replacing them without logging it too.
I'm going to follow this thread closely because I'll need to make this
decision soon (hopefully) on my -8.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Scott,
After flying about 200 Hrs of IFR in my -6A, I've encountered static
on only 3-4 occations. Once was because of the procimity of a rather
large cell I could see, the other times just in very unstable air. I've
been thinking about putting them on just to see if it will eliminate
the problem enough to allow communications.......
Fred Stucklen Rv-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>I plan on equiping my RV-8 for IFR travel. In looking at other RV's, I
>don't think I have ever seen static wicks on any. For those of you who fly
>IFR, do you have static wicks installed? How have you decided where and
how
>many to install? If not, is static a problem with your com radios?
>
>I'm getting ready to close up my rudder and thought it might be good to put
>the wicks on at that time.
>
>
>Thanks for your help
>
>Scott
>RV-8
>80331
>N733JJ
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mars on 4th of July |
Brian and Lynne Cooper have a Quickbuild kit. This list has people from
all walks of life and all over the world. Thought I would share we the
list what one of our members is up to this week.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>Cecil,
>Feel free to post this or pass it on - as long as the disclaimer
>is at the bottom. Thanks very much for your interest!
>--Lynne
>
>_______________________ Forward Header _______________________
>
>Subject: Earth "Invades" Mars on 4th of July
>Author: Lynne P Cooper
>Date: 6/30/97 1:12 PM
>
>On July 4th, 1997 Earth Invades Mars!
>
>June 27, 1997
>
>Dear Family, Friends, & Schoolmates,
>
>On July 4th, history will be made when the Mars Pathfinder
>spacecraft lands on the surface of Mars and deploys the
>first ever mobile robot on another planet. This incredibly
>exciting event is all the more exciting to us because Brian
>will be the first person ever to "drive" a vehicle on
>another planet. We're both thrilled to be part of these
>events (actually, Brian is part of them -- I'm just along
>for the ride!) and want very much to share our excitement
>with you!
>
>An incredible sequence of events leads up to the landing on
>the surface of Mars. Pathfinder is currently on an
>intercept course to Mars at a speed of ~15,000 mph.
>
>On July 4th at (Pacific Daylight Time):
>9:32 AM the Pathfinder Lander lander separates from the
> cruise stage. This is the capsule that has been
> protecting the Lander from the environment of
> Space during it's 7-month journey from Earth to
> Mars.
>
>10:02 AM Pathfinder enters the upper atmosphere of Mars at
> 16,6000 mph. Communications with the spacecraft
> will be limited to listening to a very simple
> signal from the spacecraft that will "sound"
> differently to the folks on earth receiving it as
> the spacecraft drastically reduces speed.
>
>During the next 4.5 minutes
> - The spacecraft rapidly slows down in the
> atmosphere using a heat shield to protect the
> spacecraft from very high temperatures (remember
> the old animations of the red hot temperatures
> that the Apollo capsule encountered when
> returning to Earth?)
> - The Parachute deploys. It's a very large
> parachute because the atmosphere on Mars is much
> less than on Earth.
> - The Heat shield separates, and the Lander (which
> looks like a closed up flower bud) descends on a
> bridle so that it is separated from the other
> parts of the capsule.
> - The Air Bags inflate. These air bags look a lot
> like an inflated cluster of grapes (though they
> aren't purple - just plain old off-white). They
> completely enclose the spacecraft. At this
> point, the whole thing looks like a really large
> parachute supporting an empty shell which has a
> long cord hanging out the bottom with a big
> cluster of inflated air bags. If any Martians
> are watching, they are bound to be amused!
> - Rockets fire to decrease the speed of the
> ensemble. The bridle cable is cut and the
> cluster of airbags drops to the surface of Mars.
> - It then bounces (maybe as high as a ten story
> building), rolls, and eventually comes to rest
> on the surface of Mars at approximately 10:07am.
>
>by 12:33PM The airbags deflate and are pulled up next to
> the Lander petals. Then the petals open - like a
> flower - exposing the Lander equipment and the
> Sojourner Rover to Mars for the first time.
>
>2:00 PM The sun rises on Mars and the solar panels that
> are on the inside of the petals begin collecting
> energy to power the spacecraft (there are also
> batteries) and the spacecraft is able to
> communicate with Earth
>
>2:09 PM We receive the first pictures of the surface of
> Mars and the actual landing site from Pathfinder.
>
>At this point, it's time for Brian and his co-workers to go
>to work. The Sojourner Rover is "parked" on one of the
>petals. The first big decision to make is whether/how to
>deploy the ramps that enable the Rover to drive off of the
>Lander. After they deploy the ramps, that's when "Robonaut"
>Brian Cooper will drive the rover off of the lander and onto
>the surface of Mars....and the rest is history!
>
>For Brian, this moment has been 12 years in the making --
>ever since he's come to the Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL),
>he's been working on technology to enable this to happen.
>It's almost impossible to explain how much this means to
>him. During the 3-1/2 years, he's been working specifically
>on Pathfinder and adapting work done for much bigger robotic
>vehicles (and even an Army Humvee) to work with the Rover.
>In less than a week, he'll have the opportunity to see the
>results of his (and everyone else on the project's) efforts.
>
>The excitement for this day has really been building since
>the launch of the spacecraft from Cape Canaveral in
>December. The national and international media have been on
>Lab talking to the Pathfinder folks -- and Brian has been
>one of the busiest. He's been interviewed by CNN, the BBC,
>CBS, Good Morning America, Discovery Channel, Nickelodean
>News, MacNeil/Lehrer Report, KCET/PBS Huell Howser (already
>aired in Los Angeles), Japan NHK, Newspapers from Orlando,
>Germany, Orange County, and Washington State, USA Today,
>Newsweek, US News & World Report, and others. (He's a
>star!).
>
>He has also been involved with special school
>projects with Cedarwood Elementary in Washington State (who
>issued him the first official Martian Driver's License, just
>recently signed by Vice President Al Gore), and Tampa Palms
>Elementary School, Florida (who had him drive their rover
>over the internet & sent him a whole package of Go Brian!
>artwork which is displayed outside his office). Silicon
>Graphics, the maker of the high-speed computers used to
>drive the Rover, made a news brief (featuring Walter
>Cronkite & "Robonaut" Brian Cooper!) that will be shown on
>United Airlines flights during July.
>
>I sincerely hope that you can join in the excitement. For
>more information, JPL has set up a great website that has
>lots of information and pictures. The first photos will be
>available through the web site really quickly and there will
>be camera images which will include the Rover Control area
>on the web. (http://www.jpl.nasa.gov/mars/). Also, I'm
>planning to send out email bulletins sharing some of our
>personal experiences. If you are interested - please send
>me your email address (and any news you have!) to
>lynne.p.cooper(at)jpl.nasa.gov.
>
>This is an experience of a lifetime for us and we really
>want to share it with the people we care about. If you know
>anything about Brian & me - it's that we really care about
>space exploration, education, and, er....high tech toys!
>
>We look forward to hearing from you!
>
>--Lynne & Brian Cooper
>
>p.s. This is the "Cooper-centric" view of Pathfinder -There
>are lots of people who are responsible for the success of
>the mission and Brian is part of a much larger operations and
>development team. (But since I'm the one writing this -- it's
>given from my personal viewpoint! --L)
>
>---------------------
>Copyright 1997 Lynne P. Cooper (portions of the timeline
>adapted from the Mars Pathfinder website)
>The views expressed within are the personal views of the
>author and do not reflect the views of NASA, JPL, or
>Caltech.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mheaps(at)direct.ca (mike heaps) |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
Hello all, my plane is coming along great I have now started on my wings
about 3 or 4 weeks ago and soon I will be working on my body I enjoyed all
the wonderful tips you have gave me.I hope to continue this relationship I
couldn't have done it without you..
Mike Heaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
Tom, did you cut the mock-up per plans 7pp?I'm having a heck of a time
figuring out what this should look like.
thanks again
chris marion
RV-6 finishing rudder
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)konza.flinthills.com |
Can anyone tell me how to get a drill bit through the tail spring rod? You
know, that 1/4 in hole where it joins to the tail spring mount at the rear
bulkhead for an RV4?
I have ruined two bits, one being a cobalt high speed bit.
Thanks in advance.
Tim Sweemer
RV4 skinning the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Does anyone have knowledge of a kit looking for new home that builder no
longer wants to complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Switch |
Ed,
I connected a 12 volt N.O./N.C. automotive relay to my N.O. oil pressure
switch to get what I wanted and that left one less oil line to run.
Chris May
RV-4 N595CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
I heard that Van is going to be addressing the Indianapolis Aero Club on
July 8th at Eagle Creek Airport. Maybe Bill Benedict can confirm this
and give us a little more details.
Frank Smidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
>============================
>National Security Agency
>
>The network you are trying to download information from has received enough
>traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country. Apparantly,
>the file you requested is in great demand.
>
>Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have
>caused.
Having been in the crypto business and somewhat familiar with the NSA, I
can assure you that this is bogus
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory S. Brewsaugh" <gregbrew(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops: HS-610 |
All,
Thanks for the advice. Results were heavily in favor of re-doing. I
re-did.
Thanks again.
Greg Brewsaugh
RV-6A HS Skeleton (Lookin' like something!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Switch |
<19970702.103011.8910.0.ebundy(at)juno.com>
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
To Ed Bundy - -How about a description of your rough field take off and
landing techniques. Do you have wheel pants? If so, how do they handle
the unlevel surface. I would appreciate hearing of your experience
using partial flaps on take off. Thanks. J. E. Rehler RV6A flying
75hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
Hi. I used a regular high speed steel bit on my tail spring. Worked
very well with no problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I was going to hook up my oil temp sender (regular production type 2 in
1 gauge, oil temp and pressure) but the "bulb" would not seat in the
housing. It would push straight through the hole as if it were too
small for the hole. The nut fit properly. Is there supposed to be
another fitting or piece in the housing that I am missing? This is an
0320-e2d, and I am trying to install it in the oil screen housing.
Thanks for any advice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wire routing thru main spar |
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)cctrap.com> |
I'm in the seemingly never-ending phase of wiring my RV-4 and I have a
question, or perhaps more of a "survey."
Where have most of you 4 builders routed the wire bundles through the
main spar?? My original plan was just inboard of the fuselage skin, near
an existing tooling-hole. My concern however is the size of the holes
required,, which in my case, are fairly large because of my use of QD's.
I am thinking I will require one hole on each side, one of which would
have to be 1" dia, the other 1 1/4". Of course I am referring to the spar
web and not interfering with any stiffeners, straps, etc.
I have seen many different configurations including a few incorporating
the setup I have already described, but the thought of removing ANY
material from the main spar is rather scary to me :/
Thanks in advance,,,
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)cctrap.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
konza.flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone tell me how to get a drill bit through the tail spring rod? You
> know, that 1/4 in hole where it joins to the tail spring mount at the rear
> bulkhead for an RV4?
> I have ruined two bits, one being a cobalt high speed bit.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tim Sweemer
>
> RV4 skinning the fuselage
> Tim:
I drilled mine on a drillpress. I first drilled a #30 hole, then
followed it with a 1/4" bit. They were the bits that I bought from Avery
Tool. You have to keep then lubricated. I used Marvel Mystery Oil. The
secret to drilling these holes is to keep the bit cutting. If you ever
let it spin in the hole, it will burn up very fast.
Carroll, Hung engine 7-1-97. RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
konza.flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone tell me how to get a drill bit through the tail spring rod? You
> know, that 1/4 in hole where it joins to the tail spring mount at the rear
> bulkhead for an RV4?
> I have ruined two bits, one being a cobalt high speed bit.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tim Sweemer
>
Tim
I drilled mine in steps, starting with a #40 then a #30, 3/16 and
the final 1/4.
I also used the the vice that mounts to the drill press table to
hold it real steady. Use plenty of cutting oil, and turn the bit
very slow.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
>Can anyone tell me how to get a drill bit through the tail spring rod? You
>know, that 1/4 in hole where it joins to the tail spring mount at the rear
>bulkhead for an RV4?
>I have ruined two bits, one being a cobalt high speed bit.
>Tim Sweemer
Tim,
The trick is to turn the bit very slowly and apply a lot of pressure. 50
to 100 rpms would be great. If your weldment is not installed and you can
jig the unit up in a slow turning drill press, this would be ideal. Cutting
fluid will help but not if you're turning the bit at the speed of light.
Our most recent drilling adventure was the gear legs on the Glastar. We
drilled them with regular, high speed bits, nothing fancy and used a
cordless drill ( a pretty hefty cordless drill.) It still takes time and is
a lot of work but if you turn the bit slowly, you'll get the job done.
You may want to pilot drill with something smaller than the 1/4" as you
will get a better bolt fit. I think a #30 bit is a little small and may
tend to wander. I think we used a #19 but can't remember for sure. Also, I
drilled undersize and reamed to .2470 as a 1/4" bolt isn't really 1/4".
By the way, you want to follow the same procedure when drilling
stainless---a slow cutting speed. I don't use cutting fluid on stainless.
I usually punch through with a #40 or 30 bit and then go to final size.
Also, a handy way to deburr stainless is to chuck your debur tool in a
slow turning drill (I use a Makita cordless). For the firewall flanges, I
put the deburring bit in a right angle drill and chuck it up in the Makita.
This method is much faster and does a better job than trying to use the dog
leg crank and doing the job by hand.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
Tim,
Low RPM, lots of pressure and lots of oil.
--
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying
>
>
> Can anyone tell me how to get a drill bit through the tail spring rod?
>
> Tim Sweemer
>
> RV4 skinning the fuselage
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A quick build |
Check *Kitplanes*:
RV-6: 360-794-6036, 76525.1227(at)Compuserve.com
mcomeaux wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have knowledge of a kit looking for new home that builder no
> longer wants to complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire routing thru main spar |
It would seem that one big hole in the center of the fuselage (half in
each spar web) would cause the least structual weakening.
Derrick L. Aubuchon wrote:
> Where have most of you 4 builders routed the wire bundles through the
> main spar?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
Tim,
First use a small bit (e.g. 3/32" or smaller, then a bit larger, maybe
1/8" then 3/16" and finally 1/4". Note that the bit gets bigger you need
to use lower RPMs. When enlarging a hole, use even lower RPMs.
> Can anyone tell me how to get a drill bit through the tail spring rod? You
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
Tim,
If you have hardened the metal by spinning the bit too fast (or
overheating by not using "lubrication"), I've found that a couple of
taps with a center-punch will break through the hardened layer at the
bottom of the hole being drilled and let you continue drilling.
TTC Carroll A. Bird wrote:
> You have to keep then lubricated. I used Marvel Mystery Oil. The
> secret to drilling these holes is to keep the bit cutting. If you ever
> let it spin in the hole, it will burn up very fast.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oops: HS-610 |
>>Greg Brewsaugh
>>RV-6A HS Skeleton (Lookin' like something!)
Greg,
The more it looks like an airplane, the more fun it becomes! That first
completed part is a real upper. :-)
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
Rudder almost complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Costello <bcos(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Brake |
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
>
>
> I am about to make a brake to bend my -8 rudder trailing edge. Looks like
> a brake of just over 4' will work. Will this be sufficient for the future
> (flaps, ailerons or other bends)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott 80331
> N733JJ
I used cedar 2 X 4 X 6ft, with 4 good hinges. Faced the metal
contacting surfaces with 2 layers of duct tape placed and smoothed
very carefully. Worked fine for me. Haven't done the flaps and
ailerons yet, but I didn't want to be cut short.
Come to think of it, I bought the lumber from a yard that had
a planer and had the faces planed very smooth and accurately.
Didn't want to put any waves in that weren't there already.
Didn't cost me very much.
My 2 cents worth for your consideration.
Bill Costello
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Want an extra hour and a half of energy per day with Super Blue
Green products? Email for info or call 800-325-7544 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
I'm beginning to think about purchasing flight instruments for my RV6A
and would like to hear all opinions from the list as to what brands are
preferred. In addition to what Van's carries in his accessory catalog,
what does everyone like? I'll be installing a vacuum system so all the
gyro's don't have to be electric. Please comment on the "basic 6."
Respond directly to me unless you think the rest of the list will find
the info usefull.
Thanks.
Ed Cole RV6A
emcole(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <lcbowen(at)msn.com> |
BR Smith may still have an RV-4 kit he has to part with. He's near
Chattanooga, TN. Contact at brsmith(at)voyageronline.net
Larry
lcbowen(at)msn.com
Dreaming of building an RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com On Behalf Of mcomeaux
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 1997 9:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6A quick build
Does anyone have knowledge of a kit looking for new home that builder no
longer wants to complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's New Web Site |
I was on Van's Web Site last night and all seemed inorder. Who knows what is
up??? Could be the Aliens messing with us again! ;-)
Happy 4th to all!
Richard Clayton
Brownsville, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pnuematic Rivet Squeezer |
Hi,
I recently purchased a used pnuematic rivet squeezer from Bill Wiliams Tool
Company.
I have heard over the rv-list that his equipment is usually good.
The squeezer I purchased will not set even the smallest rivets that come with
the RV-6 empanage kit.
I called Bill Wiliams Tool Company and they said to send it back and they
would credit me.
I have a 5hp compressor and am using 125 psi. Ive taken the squeezer apart
and cleaned,oiled,
ect to see if anything was broken. Everything appears to be ok, but just
won't develope enough pressure to set rivets.
Is there something I am missing? It does to leak a small amount of air where
the pin activates the plunger during operation.
Any help would be appreciated. I know I can send it back but they don't have
a replacement they can send me at this time.
Thanks
jdaniel343(at)aol.com
Member of Minnesota Wing of Vans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
----------
> From: konza.flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tail Spring rod
> Date: Thursday, July 03, 1997 6:43 PM
>
>
> Can anyone tell me how to get a drill bit through the tail spring rod?
You may have work-hardened the drill hole surface, but I would try again
using a cobalt bit and some Boelube or bee's wax or some good lube, drill
slowly using progressively larger bit diameters.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wire routing thru main spar |
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)cctrap.com> |
On an RV4, that won't work as that's where the control torque tube passes
through. But I do agree that closer to the center results in less
weakening,, however as you move towards the center in the 4, other
structural members like floor ribs, complicate such a routing.
Finn Lassen responded:
>It would seem that one big hole in the center of the fuselage (half in
>each spar web) would cause the least structual weakening.
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)cctrap.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
Tim,
High pressure, slow speed and lots of lubrication while drilling. If done
properly the bit will cut through like butter. (ok not butter but quite
easily).
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Triming of F604 for control sticks |
I am working on the fuse skeleton for RV-6a.
I know that I have to trim away part of the top F604 bulkhead flange to
allow for the control stick movement. Is that better to do now when I
can easily make the cuts or wait until I can determine the amount of
stick movement required?
Don Mack
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Scanned image for RV6 |
Hello all.... I scanned the RV6 image from Van's manual and thought
others may want a copy as well. You can use this for getting basic ideas
for painting.
This file is in a .jpg format and I am using Paint Shop Pro to play with
the colors.
If you want a copy of this file send me your e-mail address off list.
Happy 4th!!
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pnuematic Rivet Squeezer |
aol.com!JDaniel343(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> I recently purchased a used pnuematic rivet squeezer from Bill Wiliams Tool
> Company.
> I have heard over the rv-list that his equipment is usually good.
> The squeezer I purchased will not set even the smallest rivets that come with
> the RV-6 empanage kit.
> I called Bill Wiliams Tool Company and they said to send it back and they
> would credit me.
> I have a 5hp compressor and am using 125 psi. Ive taken the squeezer apart
> and cleaned,oiled,
> ect to see if anything was broken. Everything appears to be ok, but just
> won't develope enough pressure to set rivets.
> Is there something I am missing? It does to leak a small amount of air where
> the pin activates the plunger during operation.
> Any help would be appreciated. I know I can send it back but they don't have
> a replacement they can send me at this time.
> Thanks
> jdaniel343(at)aol.com
> Member of Minnesota Wing of Vans
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
JD,
I don't know how you are using you squeezer, but the power is at the end
of the stroke. Make sure you use a small rivit set on the stationary part
of the yoke to allow the piston it's fullest extension. I found mine has
a problem squeezing real long rivits (-7's) but for the most part works
great. I was given this advice by Jerry ? at Action Air Parts where I
bought it.
Good luck! If you do return it, you may want to contact Action Air Parts
as I and a couple of friends have had good luck with them.
Ed Cole RV6A (2nd wing 1/2 way done!)
emcole(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rv-6 elec trim & inst panel |
Hi,
I just ordered a manual trim wheel for my RV-6 from a company called
Aerofab. They also make vibration isolated panel for the RV aircraft.
Here is some info about their products. They have their own web site
you can check out as well.
-Glenn Gordon
RV-6, tail going on.
**********************************************************************
Aerofab
10950 256th st.
Chisago City, Mn. 55013
Dear RV builders,
Aerofab is a company devoted to providing quailty products and services
to
aircraft builders/owners, specilizing in RV's.
We have designed an alternate trim control for the rv aircraft that
allows
for easier operation that indicates trim tab settings. The trim control
box
we designed shows you were your trim tab is set to for take-off position
and
in flight. This control will also work on other experimental aircraft as
well.
Our company has also designed instrument panels both for ifr and vfr
operation. These panels are designed for easy replacement of instruments
when
need be with out removing the instrument panel itself or hard to reach
places. These panels
also come with and without subpanels. Vibration isolators are
incorporated in
the panels that have subplanels to protect instruments from vibration
which
extends out less then 1/8".
We believe that the panel is a very important part of the completion of
your
aircraft on only for appearance but also for safety.
For more detailed information on our company and products, visit our
web
site at http://members.aol.com/aerofab or E-mail us at aerofab@aol.com
or fax
at 612-257-8642.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca (joehine) |
| Subject: | Re: Wire routing thru main spar |
>
>Derrick L. Aubuchon wrote:
>> Where have most of you 4 builders routed the wire bundles through the
>> main spar?
>
>
I didn't route any through the spar, I send them down the right side from a
switch and breaker panel I also made on the side of the cockpit by my right
knee. the wire bundle is covered up with the panels that you make with
George and Beckys interior panel kit.
Wires that need to go under the floor and out to the wings go down to the
floor and under it from the triangular area under the roll bar which is also
covered by a panel.
Joe
C-FYTQ RV4 - at the airport, all assembled, engine runs, final inspection
tuesday the eighth, becoming apprihensive about first flight.
joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca 13 James St.
506-452-1072 Home Douglas, NB
506-452-3495 Work Canada, E3A 7Z2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wire routing thru main spar |
<< Where have most of you 4 builders routed the wire bundles through the
main spar?? My original plan was just inboard of the fuselage skin, near
an existing tooling-hole. My concern however is the size of the holes >>
We run our wires thru the same hole used by the torque tube (including a #4
battery cable). Be sure to make allowances for anti-chafe, as the edges here
could be unfriendly to your wiring!
Secondly: Van makes allowances for a heat tube (2"dia) thru the spar, so
don't worry about cutting a hole- just be sure to de-burr & smooth the thing!
Use liberal amounts of anti-chafe here, also. All wires run thru this hole
will have to be disconnected if a wing is pulled for any reason, BTW.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Pnuematic Rivet Squeezer |
Are you using the correct length rivet sets? The squeezer developes most
of it's force at the end of it's travel. If you use sets that are to
thick, the squeezer will appear powerless. You use different sets and
shims to adjust for different length rivets.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
Fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp sender |
There is an adapter that fits in the housing, then the temp bulb screws into
that.
Good luck,
Jim H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
Hi Chris,
I sure did, at least I think so. If you look at the plans on 7PP and look
at the R-410 drawing at the bottom of the page. The two cut-out wings will
be bent 90 degrees up towards you. (my piece came prebent, I just had to
cutout the outline). The large tab on the left side is bent up towards you
44 degrees or just about half way vertical. The smaller tab on the right
is bent down away from you 32 degrees. I watched the empannage video, so
it was easy to see how it should look. I think a cardboard cutout(or even
a quick paper cutout) would be a great idea so you can see how it should
turn out. Do you have the rest of your rudder skeleton done?
Regards
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
RV-6A elevator
>
>Tom, did you cut the mock-up per plans 7pp?I'm having a heck of a time
>figuring out what this should look like.
>thanks again
>chris marion
>RV-6 finishing rudder
>cincy oh
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cliffd(at)mailhost.accesscom.net (Cliff Dominey) |
| Subject: | Chevy V6 R6A kits |
Greetings Listers -
My apologies if I missed a thread, but I do believe the June issue of
Kitplanes has come and gone, and no one here had a comment on the V6 engine
kit for the 6A that was discussed in that issue. As a mere 8AQB wannabe,
this is not quite my cup of tea, but getting real close. Is anybody out
there looking at this? Sounds really interesting.
BTW - my compliments also to Tom Martin for the fairy tale dead stick.
Maybe this is a chance to make a plug for sailplane training. When things
up front get really quiet, and all you hear is the sound of that wind
rushing by, at least it wouldn't be for the first time.
Cliff Dominey
cliffd(at)mailhost.accesscom.net
garage workshop (and house) acquired, collecting tools, waiting for Van
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< I'm beginning to think about purchasing flight instruments for my RV6A
and would like to hear all opinions from the list as to what brands are
preferred. In addition to what Van's carries in his accessory catalog,
what does everyone like? I'll be installing a vacuum system so all the
gyro's don't have to be electric. Please comment on the "basic 6."
Respond directly to me unless you think the rest of the list will find
the info useful >>
Ed-
Go with Sigmatek or RC Allen for the gyros (not IFR) based on gyro tech info.
Put a Navaid A/P in for the T/C. If you want the capabilities and don't mind
that it's electrically powered go with the Rkymtn uEncoder or just get the
Altimeter, VSI (3000ft+/-) and ASI from Van's. If you do aerobatics get an
Accel from Van's.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us |
| Subject: | Operating Pnuematic Rivet Squeezers |
Someone wrote asking for info on why their pneumatic squeezer won't
operate. I speak from experience. A year of on-again-and-off-again
operations until I found someone who gave me the answer! My works
great - NOW!
> I recently purchased a used pnuematic rivet squeezer * * *
I can see this one coming! ;-) It sounds oooh so familiar.
> The squeezer I purchased will not set even the smallest rivets* * *
As the man on the phone told me, I bet I know what your problem is .
. . ;-) Mine would, then wouldn't.
> I have a 5hp compressor and am using 125 psi.***
That's plenty. In fact, too much. 90 psi is plenty.
> Everything appears to be ok,
And it probably is.
> but just won't develope enough pressure to set rivets. Is there something I am
missing?
It's not the pressure. In *all likelihood* it's the way it's been set
up.
> It does to leak a small amount of air where the pin activates the plunger during
operation.
Most of the ones I've seen do.
Now, are you ready to try this?:
A pneumatic squeezer doesn't need *strength* (read that - mucho air
pressure) to squeeze. It needs ROOM. It seems that most of us who
haven't been around these jewels simply don't know how they operate.
The last 3/16" or so of the travel does the squeezing. It 's a
leverage thing. Until the squeezer gets to that point, it's really
weak. Strong enough for finger mashing, but not a whole lot more.
I suggest that you try this: Look at the two rivet squeezer sets you
put in your jaws (one on each side of the jaw). Easily squeeze the
trigger. Let the squeezer close. Do the sets touch? Or do they even
almost touch? If so, remove them. Put in only long enough rivet
squeezer sets that *when the squeezer is activated and the plunger is
fully closed* close to the length desired of the rivet after it is
squeezed.
I really don't know how to describe this better, but think of this:
When the squeezer is fully closed, there still should be a gap
between the two rivet squeezer sets. The gap should equal the desired
length of the rivet after it is squeezed. The gap should be *no more*
or *no less* that the desired length of the rivet *after* squeezing.
If the plunger closes on the rivet *before* the last 3/16" or so of
travel, it will just "bump" the rivet and stop. Even a 3/16" (#3)
rivet will stop the squeezer. Yet if the plunger only makes contact
with the rivet in its last little bit of travel - instant butter. The
rivet is squeezed.
I changed my sets and instant remedy!!!!! Works great.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxx xxxxxx
xxxxxx xxxxxx
xxxxxx
xxxxxx
xxxxxxxx
xxxxxxx
xxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
TOO LONG JUST RIGHT
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A
(GlaStar on gear)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
Does anyone have any suggestions for riveting the R-410 to the R-605PP
rudder horn. The brace forms a little boxed in area and none of my buckin=
g
bars or 3" squeezer will fit in to set the center two rivets.
Will go to the junkyard tomorrow to find some steel for a smaller bucking=
bar, but in the meantime thought someone may have a good idea.
Thanks
George McNutt - 6A Rudder
Langley B.C. =
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A FUSELAGE JIG FOR SALE |
Good wood jig, used twice. Available in Northern California (Paradise,
California) $200.
Call Doug Leihy (916) 876 1234, or Email dleihy(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
Sounds like a good place for 2 pop rivets.
Regards
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
RV-6A - elevator
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for riveting the R-410 to the R-605PP
>rudder horn. The brace forms a little boxed in area and none of my bucking
>bars or 3" squeezer will fit in to set the center two rivets.
>
>Will go to the junkyard tomorrow to find some steel for a smaller bucking
>bar, but in the meantime thought someone may have a good idea.
>
>Thanks
>George McNutt - 6A Rudder
>Langley B.C.
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
>Does anyone have any suggestions for riveting the R-410 to the R-605PP
>rudder horn. The brace forms a little boxed in area and none of my bucking
>bars or 3" squeezer will fit in to set the center two rivets.
>
>Will go to the junkyard tomorrow to find some steel for a smaller bucking
>bar, but in the meantime thought someone may have a good idea.
George, I just looked at my R-410 assembly again. If you have cut the 2
1/8 inch lightening hole in it, you could probably set the rivets with the
Avery longeron yoke for the Avery hand squeezer. Dave Barnhart was good
enough to set an couple of rivets for me using his longeron yoke on the
rudder horn when I had the same problem. Dave recommended getting the
longeron yoke as there are a lot of areas with similar access problems
coming up as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy V6 R6A kits |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Cliff,
I'm currently building a second -6a that I plan on powering with the
Chevy engine...
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
mailhost.accesscom.net!cliffd(at)matronics.com (Cliff Dominey) writes:
>Dominey)
>
>Greetings Listers -
> My apologies if I missed a thread, but I do believe the June issue
>of
>Kitplanes has come and gone, and no one here had a comment on the V6
>engine
>kit for the 6A that was discussed in that issue. As a mere 8AQB
>wannabe,
>this is not quite my cup of tea, but getting real close. Is anybody
>out
>there looking at this? Sounds really interesting.
> BTW - my compliments also to Tom Martin for the fairy tale dead
>stick.
>Maybe this is a chance to make a plug for sailplane training. When
>things
>up front get really quiet, and all you hear is the sound of that wind
>rushing by, at least it wouldn't be for the first time.
>Cliff Dominey
>cliffd(at)mailhost.accesscom.net
>garage workshop (and house) acquired, collecting tools, waiting for
>Van
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
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>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
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> +--
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
George McNutt wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for riveting the R-410 to the R-605PP
> rudder horn. The brace forms a little boxed in area and none of my bucking
> bars or 3" squeezer will fit in to set the center two rivets.
>
> Will go to the junkyard tomorrow to find some steel for a smaller bucking
> bar, but in the meantime thought someone may have a good idea.
>
> Thanks
> George McNutt - 6A Rudder
> Langley B.C.
>
> I had a machinist friend who made me a bucking bar out of
1 1/4" keystock. It laid in that opening just right to buck those
rivets.
Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
writes:
>
>Tom, did you cut the mock-up per plans 7pp?I'm having a heck of a time
>figuring out what this should look like.
>thanks again
>chris marion
Chris,
Yes, I made the R-410 mockup exactly to the dimensions shown in the
plans. I don't have my plans in front of me, so I can't be any more
detailed than that. I just found that a three-dimensional model that I
could actually fit to my rudder made the fit much clearer. I am going
out to my hangar today. I'll look at the rudder plans. If I remember
any more useful info, I will e-mail you off-list.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 fitting the gear leg fairings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
While out at Van's builder's clinic, we all went over to Art Chard's to see a
project he was contracted to work on. He had just received his wings, which
had been transported from Colorado. During the ride out they bounced on
whatever they were riding on and the leading edge was flat over a six inch
area. It was a sickening feel ing to run your hand down a smooth leading edge
and all of a sudden a flat place.
For what it's worth.
Shelby in Nashville.
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
I just did this last month, and also struggled with it. The standard
method seems to be to bend the R-410 up so that you can under it with a
thin bucking bar. Better have strong fingers! One of the Van's crew said
you could also attach these parts with pop rivets, but if you do so
recommended adding a rivet between each hole (ie 7 total). I went this
route - looks a bit funny, but is plenty strong.
I aslo ran into a "gottcha" with the R-410. Due to the way this part is
pre-bent, you end up having to pull the "90 degree" sides over to the where
they attach to the rib flanges and skin. Why Van's doesn't pre-bend this
piece so that it will fit the rib I can't imagine. I built my "first"
R-410 to plan specs, only to find that after I pulled the sides into place
there wasn't adequate edge distance on the holes. I was more successful on
the second R-410, by relying less on the plan dimensions and more on the
"file and fit" method.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for riveting the R-410 to the R-605PP
>rudder horn. The brace forms a little boxed in area and none of my bucking
>bars or 3" squeezer will fit in to set the center two rivets.
>
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pnuematic Rivet Squeezer |
JD,
I agree with ED,Call Action Air Parts,talk to Jerry Williams @
[313]364-5885.He's great to deal with.I bought a pneumatic sqeezer from him
last week.
chris marion
RV-6 finishing rudder
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
Tom,
My rudder skelaton is done,I've got the videos,just didnt think to watch
them.last night i layed it out on paper.I'm planning on cutting tonight.
thanks for the description that helped alot.I'll let you know how it turns
out.
chris marion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: 7/16 in HS spar? |
Just wondering how people have handled the elevator trim cable hole in
the HS spar. I am currently running the cable to the trim tab, and I
drilled a 7/16th inch hole as per the plans. However, this hole is not
large enough to put the correct grommet in, and enlarging the hole means
zapping some of the HS rear spar reinforcers, and it may be difficult to
enlargen because of those stiffeners. Should I leave the hole as is, and
bag the grommet, or enlargen the hole and use a grommet.
Thanks in advance...
Grant in NM
ps. To the person at Caballo building the 6 who has been trying to get
ahold of me, e-mail me your phone number and I'll give you a call.
Gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Surface finishing |
Hi all,
I admit it, I hate drudge work! There has to be an easier way to finish
the edges of all these lovely parts Van's has sent me. After using the
3M Scotch Brite wheel, the surfaces still have fine marks on them. Hand
sanding in 90+ degree heat sucks!!!!!
Does anyone have a way/ways to automate this process (use power tools)?
I was thinking of getting some 3M Scotch Brite "fine" grade (blue color)
Rol-lok pads for my die grinder or maybe one of those fine abrasive
flapper wheels I see in the machinists catalogs. Any experiences or
comments are appreciated.
I've got a new router and table I'd love to use to make all the radii on
the thicker stock pieces. Does anyone know where I can buy a corner
rounding router bit with less than a 1/4" radius? I was hoping to find
something closer to 1/32-1/16". Thanks in advance.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
Hi,
Does anyone know where I could purchase Alodine in powder form? The
Aerospace firm I worked for in Buffalo, N.Y. (15 years ago) used to buy
it in 30 gallon drums. I want to make a 10 (or more)gallon tank of it
to dip parts in. Buying it in liquid form is expensive because you pay
to ship mostly water.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rough field takeoff |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
> To Ed Bundy - -How about a description of your rough field take off
and
>landing techniques. Do you have wheel pants? If so, how do they
>handle the unlevel surface. I would appreciate hearing of your
experience
>using partial flaps on take off. Thanks. J. E. Rehler RV6A flying
I do have wheel pants, and have no problems with them, but the surface is
pretty level. The surface is crushed and rolled gravel, with most of the
pieces being about the size of Grape Nuts (the cereal). While this is a
durable, easy-on-the-tires, rain resistant surface, it is murder on the
prop. So the ritual is: 1) get the nose up as soon as possible, 2) get
the airplane off the surface and climbing as soon as possible.
I start with full aft stick, and one notch of flaps (approx 12deg) and
get the airplane rolling with as little power as possible, then
gradually pick up speed before smoothly adding full power. (to keep high
RPM/low groundspeed from sucking gravel through the prop) As soon as the
nose comes up, hold it at takeoff attitude until the aircraft climbs into
ground effect, lower the nose slightly, gradual climb while accelerating
to Vx, raise the flaps, accelerate to Vy or cruise climb when clear of
the airport.
This seems to work well, any other ideas appreciated. Anyone have any
ideas on how to "toughen-up" the leading edges of a metal prop?
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re-Surface finishing |
Charlie,
I too found the surface finish using the recommended 7A medium wheel
too coarse for my taste. Avery sells a EXL 9S Fine Grade that leaves a
much nicer finish. Most of my deburring is done with a 2" fine Roloc
disk in a 90 degree die grinder. Practice on some scrap first, until you
get used to keeping the wheel turning away from the aluminum it could
grab and damage it. I still hand sand .016 but if you hit it real quick
with 240 grit before going to 400 it will speed it up. Incidentally, for
deburring holes I've switched to a single flute deburring bit it dosen't
chatter and leave radial lines around the hole like my three flute bit
did.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Surface finishing |
Hi Charlie,
I use a metal dremal tool bit for the corners. Also The 6 inch 3M scotch
bright wheel that goes on your grinder if you have one, has been
indispensable for me.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>
>Hi all,
>I admit it, I hate drudge work! There has to be an easier way to
>finish
>the edges of all these lovely parts Van's has sent me. After using the
>3M Scotch Brite wheel, the surfaces still have fine marks on them.
>Hand
>sanding in 90+ degree heat sucks!!!!!
>Does anyone have a way/ways to automate this process (use power
>tools)?
>I was thinking of getting some 3M Scotch Brite "fine" grade (blue
>color)
>Rol-lok pads for my die grinder or maybe one of those fine abrasive
>flapper wheels I see in the machinists catalogs. Any experiences or
>comments are appreciated.
>I've got a new router and table I'd love to use to make all the radii
>on
>the thicker stock pieces. Does anyone know where I can buy a corner
>rounding router bit with less than a 1/4" radius? I was hoping to find
>something closer to 1/32-1/16". Thanks in advance.
>Charlie Kuss
>RV-8 empenage
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-F608 and F628 |
I have just finished the skeleton of my 6A and have a couple of things
that might help others. While fresh in my mind I will pass them on.
Years ago (about 30) I learned to distrust strings as straight edges. So
I didn't use them to see if the bottom skin would lay straight over the
bulkheads.
I jigged five very straight 1x4's from F606 to F612. I found the F608
could not be shifted around so it would lay next to the bottom skin no
matter what I tried. It had a good eighth of an inch gap.
After much thought I split the bulkhead from longhorn to longhorn about
one inch from the flange. I then fashioned a splice plate from .032
material for it after moving the flange into proper position. My bottom
skin is now going to fit very, very well.
Where the F628 touches the bottom skin. The aft corner stuck up about one
eighth inch to high so I had to re-bend it some. Now it will fit the
bottom skin good.
By the way I redid the 2x4 of the jig here so I could fit F628 now
instead of after it comes out of the jig like the Orndorff tapes show. I
also fit the baggage compartment backs to make F606 not be so wobbly,
early on in construction. If you do this you have to use a .032 shim to
simulate the floor here.
Just like a computer, there are several ways to 'skin the cat'. Does that
statement age me or what.
Cecil Hatfield
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 88 Flyin @ El Dorado, Kansas |
Just a quick summary of the fly-in this weekend for you fellow Listers:
Pretty good turnout, all kinds of aircraft from antiques and classics
(Tiger Moths, Champs, etc.) to relatively modern-vintage Wichita iron (1984
A36 Bonanza, courtesy of the Beechcraft Employees Flying Club, for
example...gotta plug the club!!) to international GA (a DH Chipmunk and a
Yak 50), along with about two dozen homebuilts...of which about two-thirds
were RVs! In fact, if the RVs hadn't shown up, there would have been only
one row of experimentals. The RVs were the only multiple examples of any
of the various designs that showed up. There were about a dozen RV-6s
(mostly tip-ups with a couple of sliders thrown in); one -6A, 4 -4s, and
one -3 (I didn't count too closely; I was too busy taking pictures,
gawking, and asking questions). Large delegation from Texas (as usual);
one from Enid, Oklahoma, and one from Longmount, Colorado. It was good to
meet these guys, but I didn't recognize any Listers there. A couple of the
-6 guys are already working on -8s. Lots of really good MOTIVATION
supplied today!!
Hope to see quite a few of you guys at OSH!
Bill Mills
Wichita, Kansas
STILL RV-8 Dreaming, BEFC A-36 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Surface finishing |
<< Does anyone have a way/ways to automate this process (use power tools)?
I was thinking of getting some 3M Scotch Brite "fine" grade (blue color)
Rol-lok pads for my die grinder or maybe one of those fine abrasive
flapper wheels I see in the machinists catalogs. Any experiences or
comments are appreciated. >>
The 3M 2" fine (blue) polishing discs used with a die grinder, are the
best
tool I've found for finishing edges. These are the round flat discs that
twist
1/4 turn into the plastic disc holder (ROLOC). Just plan on buying a lot of
these.
Larry Adamson
RV6A wings (with 0360 rusting in box)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crasser Commercialism) |
Okay, some of you out there in RV-Land haven't been paying attention.
The first Production run of the "way cool, what a joy to behold" RV-6/6A
Sliding Canopy Skirt Caps as profusely articulated in my prior posting, is
going fast. The Frank Lloyd Wright School of Design has nominated this item
for their "1997 Elegance in Design" award. What simplicity, what curves!
Although we are knee deep in checks, we need more so we can roll around
naked in them. America, what a country!
Don't be left out and end up having to hog one out of old bar stock with a
dull swizzle stick. What are you waiting for? Get your order in. If you're
building a 6/6A slider, YOU NEED THIS PART! If not ours, whose? If not now,
when?
C'mon, cough up the $10 (which, incidentally, includes US shipping in its own
handy laminated organic shipping container).
Thousands, if not dozens, of satisfied customers around the globe can attest
to the superior quality and low drag characteristics of this hot new item.
Go ahead, dare to set yourself off from the unwashed unhorsed multitudes.
Seem slimmer, taller, sexier and more intelligent than you really are.
Okay? Are you ready to give it up now? I am.
Send $10 to Gary VanRemortel 1963 Badgerwood Ln, Milpitas, CA 95035
Thanks for supporting my early retirement,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks - Pnuematic Rivet Squeezer |
I wish to thank everyone ho answered my questions about a pnuematic squeezer.
Sure enough I set it up as everyone suggested a waht do you know rivets are
being ser properly.
Thanks again.
PS: Isn't the internet and e-mail great. Wouldn't have known what to do a few
years ago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine powder |
<< Does anyone know where I could purchase Alodine in powder form? >>
I think Amchem in Ambler, PA sells Alodine 1200 powder. Iridite 14-2 by
Allied Research Products in Baltimore, MD is the same thing. Or find a
plater in your area that does chem film per MIL-C-5541, Class 3 and you may
be able to get some from him.
For each gallon of solution desired McDonnell-Douglas process spec 13204 says
to mix 2-3 ounces of powder to a gallon of distilled or deionized water and
add 1/8 fluid oz of Activol #1357 wetting agent from Haas-Miller Corp,
Philadelphia, PA (not absolutely necessary). Add one pound/gallon of
Cab-O-Sil thixotroping agent to the above solution for non-dipping
applications, like sponging on exterior a/c surfaces.
If you are going to use the solution over a long period of time, free oxygen
will be depleted so you may need to add a fish aerating stone to the bottom
of the tank and blow some air into it for best results. Further, warming the
solution to 90 degrees F and agitation improves the chemical film development
vs time.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
What actually is "degree of flap"? I recently started setting mine up and
couldn't find what angle was actually supposed to be measured. Since the
flaps hinge from the bottom skin the pivot point of the flap cord and the
fixed wing cord move aft as the flap lowers, different from the elevators.
Is 40 degrees an angle formed between the bottom skins? Is it close enough?
But, it seems that the travel down of the flap is already determined by the
geometry of the weldment and the travel of the electric flap motor. The
length of the linkage determines where the flaps stop in the up
position(zero degrees). Am I missing something?
kevin 6A -engine permanent this week! (Randall, don't read this, I know
how it upsets you--brand new engine huh? wish I was a programmer instead of
a carpenter, wait, hey, I used to be, I forgot-money or time, take your pick!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
Thanks to those who replied to my question about setting the AN470AD4-6
rivets joining the R-410 brace to the rudder horn inside the boxed in are=
a
that is formed by these two parts. =
I chose not to use pop rivets due to the structural nature of the join.
For those who have not done this yet here is a brief description.
Went to the local scrap metal dealer and bought some assorted pieces of
stainless steel. Found a piece 5/8 X 1-1/8 high and about 10" long,
polished the 5/8 face on the belt sander and it worked well as a bucking
bar. =
Clamped the rudder spar to workbench in horizontal position with area to =
be
riveted hanging over end of workbench, poked bucking bar up through botto=
m
of boxed in area and riveted the four rivets working from top to bottom.
Also picked up a piece of 3/16 X 2 X 10" stainless in anticipation of
bucking rivets at the outer ends of the R-403 & R-404 ribs. =
George McNutt 6A Rudder.
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine powder |
> Hi,
> Does anyone know where I could purchase Alodine in powder form?
I may be able to come up with a source - I'll check on MondayLarry
> --
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
"Either Raise Your Skill Level... or Lower Your Standards"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacquelyn eastburn" <jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net> |
after reading about the conversion, it sounds like a real choice over
conventional aircraft engines. the option possibilities could be endless
ie. tuned port injection, after market heads, choice of cam combinations,
high voltage ignition systems, tuned exhaust and variable computer chips.
oh yeah, a short block at your local chevy dealer for about 800 dollars or
1000 blue printed , if you want. according to the letter from them, the -6A
should be ready about now with the -6 and -8 this year.
jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net
Hillsboro Oregon
RV - 8 Ser. No. 80079
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: degrees of flap |
>What actually is "degree of flap"? I recently started setting mine up and
>couldn't find what angle was actually supposed to be measured. Since the
>flaps hinge from the bottom skin the pivot point of the flap cord and the
>fixed wing cord move aft as the flap lowers, different from the elevators.
>Is 40 degrees an angle formed between the bottom skins? Is it close enough?
>But, it seems that the travel down of the flap is already determined by the
>geometry of the weldment and the travel of the electric flap motor. The
>length of the linkage determines where the flaps stop in the up
>position(zero degrees). Am I missing something?
Kevin;
Here is a shadetree mechanics version. I think it is accurate enough
unless you are designing the breech block for a 16 inch naval gun.
A degree is a degree, measured form one angle to another. I used an
inclinometer, but it can be done with the old standby Weems plotter. Set
the flaps full up, rest the inclinometer on top of the flaps, read what
angle the pendulum is on the inclinometer, move the flaps down until the
pendulum shows they have changed the angle by ten degrees (or what ever you
want), mark the outer left leading edge of the flaps where it comes out from
under the trailing edge of the wing skin. This will be your visual
reference for that number of degrees of flaps. Do this for however many
positions of the flap settings you want.
The same can be done with the Weems plotter modified with a string and
weight and placed under the flap bottom.
I did it. It worked fine for me, but I don't worry about setting my
flaps 1/2 to 1 degree off. I placed a slanting tape on the flaps. The slant
is full inboard when the flaps are up, and full out board when they are full
down. On the slant, I put horizontal bars on it, one at each 10 degrees of
flap movement. If I wanted 10 degrees of flaps, I moved it until the first
horizon. bar came out from under the wing skin and stopped. That gave me 10
degrees of flaps. No complicated expensive flaps indictor gauge etc. Just
the ole Mark I Mod I eyeball.
By the way, my inclinometer had a magnet on the bottom of it, I did
modify it by replacing the iron magnet with an aluminum magnet. You do have
an aluminum magnet don't you? :-)
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | RV & EAA in Corvallis (Chatter) |
Bill Benedict, Mike Seager and Jeremy Benedict (our net security
agent) flew down to our (new) Chapter #1183 meeting at the invitation of one
of out organizers and RV-6A builder, Steve Kamura. We have our meetings the
first Staurdau of each month.
They arrived early enough to give some rides in the new RV-8 and
the RV-6 and get some Mexican food. I think they converted a few to RV
types by the look on their faces when they came down. Bill gave us a slide
show on the history of Van's and gave us a run down on what was and is being
sold. Mike gave us a run down on the training he does for Van's. It is a
absolute for me. I'm building a -6, but that RV-8 sure is inviting. Maybe
next time.
Anyway I thought share that with you listeners and publicly thank Bill and
Mike for taking their holiday time and attending our meeting here in
Corvallis, OR. If any of you are coming though and would like to contact our
group or need a helping hand just E-mail me or phone 259-4500 and ask for
Denny.
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Surface finishing |
Charlie,
There are lots of power tools and accessories that make tedious hand filing
and deburring easier!
J&L, 1-800-521-9520, sells Corner Rounding End Mills with radii from 1/32
on up. They vary in price from $20.35 for the 1/32 to $22.00 for the 3/16,
whose part number is HCR-40600K. These are really meant for milling
machines and you may get some chatter from a router due to higher speed and
less rigid mounting.
I used a hand held belt sander on the horizontal stab spar pieces that need
a radius to clear the bend radius in the mating sheet.
A 2" Roloc disc is great for taking down a long sheet to a line where you
have 3/16 or less to remove. I use an 80 grit aluminum oxide Roloc for
fast cutting and 120 for slower, fine cutting. Use a 90 degree die grinder
to get a good hand position and practice cutting on the down side of the
disk. You may have to turn the piece over to do this.
Draw a line with a very fine Sharpie pen and support the long piece with
about 1/4 of edge overhang. The Sharpie pen leaves about a 1/32 wide line
and with practice you can split it with the 120 grit wheel. Finish with
the blue Scotchbrite wheel with wheel perpendicular, and 45 degrees to the
edge. Turn piece over to do the bottom edge. This will give you perfectly
straight lines with polished radii edges.
Don't take down a line with the blue wheel because the fuzzies will polish
off the line and you won't have a guide.
J&L also sell sanding cartridges that fit straight die grinders. I have
mandrels and cartridges from 1/4 to 7/8 diameter and I use them to carve
out curved surfaces, holes, etc. Run the die grinder at low PSI (just
above stalling) so centripetal force doesn't whip the abrasive roll off.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: Charlie Kuss <sprintmail.com!charliekuss(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Surface finishing
> Date: Saturday, July 05, 1997 6:26 PM
>
>
> Hi all,
> Does anyone have a way/ways to automate this process (use power tools)?
> I was thinking of getting some 3M Scotch Brite "fine" grade (blue color)
> Rol-lok pads for my die grinder or maybe one of those fine abrasive
> flapper wheels I see in the machinists catalogs. Any experiences or
> comments are appreciated.
> I've got a new router and table I'd love to use to make all the radii on
> the thicker stock pieces. Does anyone know where I can buy a corner
> rounding router bit with less than a 1/4" radius? I was hoping to find
> something closer to 1/32-1/16". Thanks in advance.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8 empenage
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: degrees of flap |
Procedure with Smart Level:
1) Line up flat with aileron pinned to neutral.
2) Calibrate Smart Level to "zero" at this position
3) Rotate flap until you have 40 degrees of travel. Something will
probably interfere and you will have to deal with it.
NOTE: A recent RVAtor (I think) had a comment that the flaps should have
42 degrees of travel stationary because the wind forece will deflect them
to 40 in flight! My plans and instructions don't say anything about that!
Dennis 6A fusellage in jig
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> From: kevin lane <worldnet.att.net!n3773(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: degrees of flap
> Date: Saturday, July 05, 1997 11:04 PM
>
>
> What actually is "degree of flap"? I recently started setting mine up
and
> couldn't find what angle was actually supposed to be measured. Since the
> flaps hinge from the bottom skin the pivot point of the flap cord and the
> fixed wing cord move aft as the flap lowers, different from the
elevators.
> Is 40 degrees an angle formed between the bottom skins? Is it close
enough?
> But, it seems that the travel down of the flap is already determined by
the
> geometry of the weldment and the travel of the electric flap motor. The
> length of the linkage determines where the flaps stop in the up
> position(zero degrees). Am I missing something?
> kevin 6A -engine permanent this week! (Randall, don't read this, I
know
> how it upsets you--brand new engine huh? wish I was a programmer instead
of
> a carpenter, wait, hey, I used to be, I forgot-money or time, take your
pick!)
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire routing thru main spar |
There are several points where you can run wires and lines through the spar.
The most logical is near the center of the fuselage where you can open up a
three sided hole, the fourth side being at the end on the spar. This would
allow your wiring to remain intact as you install/remove your wings. If you
choose to do this, just tie the wire bundles over so they will not
interfere with the control column.
You can put holes through the spar web, as long as you avoid the bars,
both horizontal and vertical. I put a 2" hole through mine to run warm/cool
air to the back seat, with Van's approval.
The point of the highest stress is just outside the fuselage. There is a
vertical bar in the spar just inside the fuselage with two bolts attaching
it to the fuse. We refer to this as the shear bar and you can loosely think
of it as a fulcrum (remember, I'm an EE, not an ME nor an English major).
The points just outboard from this shear bar are receiving the highest
stress. One of the purposes of the wing walk ribs is to support the skin
when you step on the wing, but an even more important function is to
support the spar bars at the highest stress point where they are under a
high level of compression and are trying to buckle forward (the top bars
when pulling +g's) or aft.
Now that we have gone through this exercise, don't think that you need to
reinforce this area. There has never been a case of spar failure in a -4 or
-6/6A. These spars are so over designed that you (the pilot) will pass out
long before the spar yields. Bill
>
>I'm in the seemingly never-ending phase of wiring my RV-4 and I have a
>question, or perhaps more of a "survey."
>
>Where have most of you 4 builders routed the wire bundles through the
>main spar?? My original plan was just inboard of the fuselage skin, near
>an existing tooling-hole. My concern however is the size of the holes
>required,, which in my case, are fairly large because of my use of QD's.
>I am thinking I will require one hole on each side, one of which would
>have to be 1" dia, the other 1 1/4". Of course I am referring to the spar
>web and not interfering with any stiffeners, straps, etc.
>
>I have seen many different configurations including a few incorporating
>the setup I have already described, but the thought of removing ANY
>material from the main spar is rather scary to me :/
>
>Thanks in advance,,,
>
>
>Derrick L. Aubuchon
>n184da(at)cctrap.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans in Indy? |
Frank, You are correct. Van will be there, but I do not know about the
topic. Bill
>
>I heard that Van is going to be addressing the Indianapolis Aero Club on
>July 8th at Eagle Creek Airport. Maybe Bill Benedict can confirm this
>and give us a little more details.
>
>Frank Smidler
>
>
>
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> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
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>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
June 26, 1997 - July 06, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-db