RV-Archive.digest.vol-dc
July 06, 1997 - July 15, 1997
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi Listers ...
I am a year away from having to make an engine choice (maybe more than a
year!). I did not get Kitplane magazine and I seem to be too late
because all of the local bookstores are out of the June edition too.
What company or companies were identified as having induction and
exhaust systems, fuel systems, ignition systems, etc. for sale to RV
builders? I would like to contact some or all of them to see what they
have worked up for us.
To me the biggest downside of an auto engine aircraft is the obligation
for the builder also to be (1) the engineer who designs associated
systems and (2) the fabricator who builds them from scratch to aircraft
standards. I doubt that I am competent to perform either task. I would
buy from someone who has worked these things out already, though.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crasser Commercialism) |
Okay, I won't need it for a year or two yet, but I will send you $10.00
just for your oratory skills.
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
>
>Okay, some of you out there in RV-Land haven't been paying attention.
>
>The first Production run of the "way cool, what a joy to behold" RV-6/6A
>Sliding Canopy Skirt Caps as profusely articulated in my prior posting, is
>going fast. The Frank Lloyd Wright School of Design has nominated this item
>for their "1997 Elegance in Design" award. What simplicity, what curves!
> Although we are knee deep in checks, we need more so we can roll around
>naked in them. America, what a country!
>
>Don't be left out and end up having to hog one out of old bar stock with a
>dull swizzle stick. What are you waiting for? Get your order in. If you're
>building a 6/6A slider, YOU NEED THIS PART! If not ours, whose? If not now,
>when?
>
>C'mon, cough up the $10 (which, incidentally, includes US shipping in its own
>handy laminated organic shipping container).
>
>Thousands, if not dozens, of satisfied customers around the globe can attest
>to the superior quality and low drag characteristics of this hot new item.
> Go ahead, dare to set yourself off from the unwashed unhorsed multitudes.
> Seem slimmer, taller, sexier and more intelligent than you really are.
>
>Okay? Are you ready to give it up now? I am.
>
>Send $10 to Gary VanRemortel 1963 Badgerwood Ln, Milpitas, CA 95035
>
>Thanks for supporting my early retirement,
>-GV
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
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> +--
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 7/16 in HS spar? |
Grant, The hole through the HS stabalizer is not large enough for a
grommet. Just put some tape on the trim cable where it runs through the
spar. You do *not* want to open the hole up and nick the bars. Bill
>
>Just wondering how people have handled the elevator trim cable hole in
>the HS spar. I am currently running the cable to the trim tab, and I
>drilled a 7/16th inch hole as per the plans. However, this hole is not
>large enough to put the correct grommet in, and enlarging the hole means
>zapping some of the HS rear spar reinforcers, and it may be difficult to
>enlargen because of those stiffeners. Should I leave the hole as is, and
>bag the grommet, or enlargen the hole and use a grommet.
>
>Thanks in advance...
>
>Grant in NM
>
>ps. To the person at Caballo building the 6 who has been trying to get
>ahold of me, e-mail me your phone number and I'll give you a call.
>Gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: degrees of flap |
Kevin Degree of flap, like all control surfaces is the angle of deflection
from its neutral position. This can be measured in two ways: deflection
angle of the cord, or if you have a smart level or a level with degree
marks, measure the delta between the neutral position and the deflected
position on any surface. Bill
>
>What actually is "degree of flap"? I recently started setting mine up and
>couldn't find what angle was actually supposed to be measured. Since the
>flaps hinge from the bottom skin the pivot point of the flap cord and the
>fixed wing cord move aft as the flap lowers, different from the elevators.
>Is 40 degrees an angle formed between the bottom skins? Is it close enough?
>But, it seems that the travel down of the flap is already determined by the
>geometry of the weldment and the travel of the electric flap motor. The
>length of the linkage determines where the flaps stop in the up
>position(zero degrees). Am I missing something?
> kevin 6A -engine permanent this week! (Randall, don't read this, I know
>how it upsets you--brand new engine huh? wish I was a programmer instead of
>a carpenter, wait, hey, I used to be, I forgot-money or time, take your pick!)
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacquelyn eastburn" <jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Belted Air Power is selling a complete firewall forward system, ie, engine
from pan to carb, radiator, engine mount, all accessories, and cowling for
about 10 grand. (but I could be wrong about the price). all you need to
supply is the prop which is a s.a.e.2 type flange which are used on
lycoming engines. the chevrolet is rated at 230 H.P. and 525 FT. LB. of
torque. you can contact them at Belted Air Power 1408 Western Ave.
Las Vegas, Nevada 89102. Phone 702-384-8006
jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net
Hillsboro Oregon
RV - 8 Ser. No. 80079
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
Hi Steve,
Per the Kit Planes article, contact Belted Air Power, 1408 Western Ave. Las
Vegas, NV 702 384 8006
Bruce Knoll
To Start RV6A after Oshkosh
>
>Hi Listers ...
>
>I am a year away from having to make an engine choice (maybe more than a
>year!). I did not get Kitplane magazine and I seem to be too late
>because all of the local bookstores are out of the June edition too.
>What company or companies were identified as having induction and
>exhaust systems, fuel systems, ignition systems, etc. for sale to RV
>builders? I would like to contact some or all of them to see what they
>have worked up for us.
>
>To me the biggest downside of an auto engine aircraft is the obligation
>for the builder also to be (1) the engineer who designs associated
>systems and (2) the fabricator who builds them from scratch to aircraft
>standards. I doubt that I am competent to perform either task. I would
>buy from someone who has worked these things out already, though.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 7/16 in HS spar? |
<< You do *not* want to open the hole up and nick the bars. Bill
>>
I've been trying how those unlucky fellows in Indiana had that horiz stab
failure in their -4 (Conjecture on my part. Those involved in the
investigation haven't said much.). Could this be a tip-off? Bill?
Check six! (for parts following in close formation)
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Does anyone have any suggestions for riveting the R-410 to the R-605PP
rudder horn. The brace forms a little boxed in area and none of my bucking
bars or 3" squeezer will fit in to set the center two rivets. >>
Try a longeron squeezer yoke or Cherry Max rivets
Jon
RV6
bcg007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: degrees of flap |
<< By the way, my inclinometer had a magnet on the bottom of it, I did
modify it by replacing the iron magnet with an aluminum magnet. >>
Is that a small chunk of neutron star?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ciolino <jbc1(at)ziplink.net> |
George,
Someone eariler on the listed suggested a 3/4" steel bar 12" long (from
Home Depot) as the perfect bucking bar for this situation. Bucker holds it
with two hands while the riveter does the job.
Worked for me.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for riveting the R-410 to the R-605PP
>rudder horn. The brace forms a little boxed in area and none of my bucking
>bars or 3" squeezer will fit in to set the center two rivets.
>
>Will go to the junkyard tomorrow to find some steel for a smaller bucking
>bar, but in the meantime thought someone may have a good idea.
>
>Thanks
>George McNutt - 6A Rudder
>Langley B.C.
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
John Ciolino RV-8
jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Surface finishing |
>I admit it, I hate drudge work! There has to be an easier way to finish
>the edges of all these lovely parts Van's has sent me. After using the
>3M Scotch Brite wheel, the surfaces still have fine marks on them. Hand
>sanding in 90+ degree heat sucks!!!!!
>Charlie Kuss
Charlie,
For the edges of the various skins, I'd recommend a hand-held belt sander
followed by a few passes of a file and then a double edge deburring tool.
Sometimes, the double edge deburring tool will chatter a bit. If so, touch
up the edge with a file.
The belt sander works well for removing excess material down to a line.
How fast you go depends on the grit. The belt sander also works well for
putting a radius on flange stock and rounding corners.
To deburr ribs, etc., I use the 6" Scotch brite wheels. I do rough work
with the brown (medium) and finish up with the gray (fine). If you use the
gray for all of your work, it won't last very long. The medium wheel, used
by itself, does too rough of a job to suit me. Be carefull when using the
wheels on thin sheet, especially the med grit, as it tends to bend the
corners of light sheet.
Be carefull using the Scotchbrite discs on the edges of skins, especially
thin skins, if you decide to try this method.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tvelvick(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
Did anyone besides me have the following problem and if so; how did you
resolve it?
The plans (7pp) show that the K-1000 platenut that is riveted to the
R-405PD is attached by riveting with 2 AN426 4-6 flush head rivets
countersunk into the back of the R-405PD. However, the R602 spar and the
R606PP spar reinforcement plate have holes already drilled to allow a rivet
to go all the way through the R606PP, R602spar, R404 rib, R405PD to the
platenut. On my primered assembly, I would have to use a 4-9 rivet to get
the right shophead on the end of the platenut. On George Orindorfs (sp?)
video, he shows drilling through the R404 web, so I can assume he riveted
the whole assembly together. If you don't rivet the whole assembly
together, the the R-404 rib is only held on by the two outside rivets and
the Rod end bearing being tightened onto the plate nut. I don't understand
why the holes are in the R606PP spar reinforcement plate and the R602PP
spar(to rivet the K1000 nutplate to) if you are not supposed to use them.
Am I misunderstanding something here?
Confused,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)op.net> |
| Subject: | Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
If anyone has, or knows of someone who has an RV-4 for sale that will be in
'KOSH, let me know. I have several interested friends who are looking. It
appears that there is some rule that forbids you from putting a "for sale"
sign on the prop at S&F and at Osh Kosh. Maybe Van will let us put a list
up in the Tent. How about it, Bill?
Anyone who has a response to my request can contact me privately by e-mail
or at (610) 668-4964 after PM EDST. Thanks
Louis Willig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.H.Mole -Richard Mole" <R.H.Mole(at)open.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | power supply from 12v bus for 28volt electric horizon |
Please would anyone, who knows how, advise how I can drive an RC Allan
electric horizon (model 25B1) which requires 28Volt supply from my 12 volt
bus.
I need a converter (?) obviously, but where do I start to look and what
features should it have (stabilised output?) . How much should I have to
pay? I got the instrument second hand for a decent price and I don't want to
pay the earth to get it operational.
Richard Mole
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: degrees of flap |
><< By the way, my inclinometer had a magnet on the bottom of it, I did
> modify it by replacing the iron magnet with an aluminum magnet. >>
>
>Is that a small chunk of neutron star?
>
>-GV
Yep, something like that.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
<< It
appears that there is some rule that forbids you from putting a "for sale"
sign on the prop at S&F and at Osh Kosh. >>
I don't think this is true. I've seen a bunch of those signs.....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Malia Mondy <malia(at)truman.edu> |
| Subject: | OSHKOSH question |
I'm hoping to go to OshKosh for my first time -- plans are to arrive up
there about sunset Sunday evening. Anybody have any experience with the EAA
campground -- will there still be any camping space left there by that time
of day? Maybe will the crowds be less by Sunday night?? I just don't know
what to expect there. At national park campgrounds that don't take
reservations, you generally have to arrive by noon to be fairly sure of
getting a campsite. . .
Reply to the list, if you think there's interest, or to me off-list at:
malia(at)truman.edu
Thanks,
Malia Mondy
________________________________________________________________________________
The following RV-6 is for sale in Austin Texas:
RV-6 taildragger w/ sliding canopy 35 hrs TTAF&E
180 hp, professionally rebuilt, initially ran in test cell, balanced
Sterba Prop
Full Gyro panel
New King transponder & Com
PS Intercom
Electric trim, manual flaps
Lauritsen Interior
No used parts or instruments in plane
Just finished test period
1010 lbs empty weight
no trim tabs on plane
corrosion-proofed throughout
Still in primer, shopping for paint shop
Price negotiable
Respond off list at rick.smith(at)tivoli.com or call (512) 249-7063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
>>The plans (7pp) show that the K-1000 platenut that is riveted to the
R-405PD is attached by riveting with 2 AN426 4-6 flush head rivets
countersunk into the back of the R-405PD. However, the R602 spar and the=
R606PP spar reinforcement plate have holes already drilled to allow a riv=
et
to go all the way through the R606PP, R602spar, R404 rib, R405PD to the
platenut. <<
Thomas,
You sure got my heart beating this morning. I just finished this assembl=
y
fro my -8 and didn't use any flush rivets, thought I had messed up bad. =
Just ran out to the shop to check and apparently the -8 is done the way y=
ou
saw in the video.
The K-1000 nutplate "to be installed when reinforcement Plate is attached=
to R802 spar." Since the nutplate is attached at the same time it
obviuously cannot beCS riveted to the 405. Two rivets attach the spar,
reinforcement plate, rib, and horn. Two more attach everything but the
nutplate. This results in four rivets on the rib, two on each side of t=
he
slot cut for the rod end bearing.
Sounds like this is an improvement to the rudder and you got new parts an=
d
old plans. =
Scott Jordan
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
>>Went to the local scrap metal dealer and bought some assorted pieces of=
stainless steel. Found a piece 5/8 X 1-1/8 high and about 10" long,
polished the 5/8 face on the belt sander and it worked well as a bucking
bar. <<
I expect to be finishing the rudder skeleton this week. It appears as
though I can reach these rivets with Avery bucking bar #620 that came wit=
h
thier tool kit. The problem (?) is that I would be using an unpolished
surface of the bucking bar. What are the consequences / dangers of using =
an
unpolished surface?
Thanks
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: degrees of flap |
Maybe an alnico magnet would work on aircraft made of aluminum, nickel, or
cobalt (for the Roswell trekkies ????).
My neighbor loaned me an adjustable steel protractor with a level-type bubble
on it that is calibrated to the nearest degree. It has two indices so it can
be used effectively through 360 degrees. I do not know what the tool is
called, but it was manufactured by L.S. Starrett Co of Athol, Mass No 490.
It is slotted for use on a small square or rule and is probably 50 years old,
but it does a nice job of measuring angles of deflection of any surface.
Bob Tinnell
RV6-A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Installing/timing mags |
Someone please verify the installation procedure for slick mags on an 0-320.
My questions are the following:
1) To properly align the internal gearing of the mag do you lock the large
gear with a pin and mate with the small internal gear such that the letter
"L" aligns with the large gear when the pin is in the hole marked "L" (for
left mag)? Do you do the same with the right mag but use the letter "R"
aligned with the large gear when the pin is in the hole marked "R"?
2) Once properly aligned and assembled do you install the mag with the
engine rotated such that #1 Cylinder is at TDC or 25 degrees BTDC?
3) Use a timing light to synchronize both mags?
I don't have documentation on the exact sequence described above - if anyone
has the same please verify I'm on the right track.
Also, what is the "correct" procedure for setting idle mixture in a
carbureted Lycoming (O-320-E2D)?
Richard Bibb
N144KT - RV-4 - running out of things to do before first flight....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Burlington Fly-in |
Hello listers:
There will be an RV fly-in on the weekend of September 20-21 in Burlington,
Colorado. It's near the Kansas-Colorado border along Interstate 70. There
is a $15 registration fee this year which gets you a steak lunch on
Saturday and transportation to and from the "in-town" events and programs
via shuttle bus. There will be a dinner and program on Saturday evening.
Tickets to the evening event will be sold at the registration tables.
Camping is allowed. Bring your own tie-downs. Free "booth" space for
rv-related vendors. For more details contact John Stewart at (719)346-8741.
I just called and made my hotel reservation for Saturday the 20th. I
understand that many people are planning to arrive early and stay Friday
night, too. The motel everybody stays at is the Comfort Inn. Their phone
number is (888)388-7676. The room rate I was quoted for 2 people and 2 beds
was $62.76. The manager said they should be able to better the rate when
they see just how many rooms the group takes. Still not a bad price if you
ask me.
The fly-in should be really great again this year. Last year the Avery's,
Larry Vetterman, Bill Benedict, the Orndorff's, and a bunch of Texans all
showed up. We didn't do much advertising at all last year so with a little
effort this year should be huge! Bob Nuckolls is currently scheduled to
speak Saturday right after lunch. I'm looking forward to meeting him in
person and buying his book.
As Denis Walsh always says, "I'm not in charge of anything and I don't work
for anybody." I'm just passing this information along because I went last
year and had a great time. Feel free to contact me via e-mail directly if I
can answer any other questions.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)op.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
>
>
><< It
> appears that there is some rule that forbids you from putting a "for sale"
> sign on the prop at S&F and at Osh Kosh. >>
>
>I don't think this is true. I've seen a bunch of those signs.....
>
>Check six!
>Mark
Mark,
For the past two summers I have seen "for sale" signs on the first day of
'Kosh and S&F. Then they were removed. When questioned, someone told me
they were no longer allowed. This didn't sound right, and I been unable to
confirm.
But....I have not seen "for sale signs" on the props since 1995. You can,
of course, put a sign inside the cockpit, and I have seen some of these. I
really hope I am mistaken about the above.
Louis Willig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OSHKOSH question |
Malia Mondy wrote:
>
>
> I'm hoping to go to OshKosh for my first time -- plans are to arrive up
> there about sunset Sunday evening. Anybody have any experience with the EAA
> campground -- will there still be any camping space left there by that time
> of day? Maybe will the crowds be less by Sunday night?? I just don't know
> what to expect there. At national park campgrounds that don't take
> reservations, you generally have to arrive by noon to be fairly sure of
> getting a campsite. . .
Malia--
If you're planning on arriving the Sunday BEFORE Oshkosh officially
opens, you should be in great shape. Camp Scholler has plenty of room.
Pick a spot close to the woods so you'll have close access to the
entrance. Bring string/rope and stakes to stake out your space. The
first year I camped there, I didn't. Within hours, seven New Yorkers
invaded my space and plopped their tents within inches of mine. They
snored all night, every night! So, stake out an area you can defend.
Pick a spot close enough to the shower and portapotty facilities for
convenience, but far away enough so that the traffic doesn't keep you
awake all night.
Hope that helps.
--Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Richardson <Mark.Richardson(at)sofkin.ca> |
Hi folks,
I was just perusing the CNN site about the Mars mission and found a
picture of Brian Cooper, who, if memory serves me, subscribes to this
list.
The URL is
http://cnn.com/TECH/9707/07/pathfinder.8a/link.cooper.jpg
Mark
----------------
Mark Richardson
Mark.Richardson(at)sofkin.ca
Project Manager, Naval Electronic Warfare
Software Kinetics Ltd. http://www.sofkin.ca
VOX 613-831-0888 FAX 613-831-8255
RV-6 20819
#include
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi Scott,
I used a file to smooth the rough parts of my bucking bars two years
ago. In fifteen minutes you can put close to a mirror finish on any
side of the things. I must say, though, that I still could not buck
those rivets in the rudder horn. With Van's permission (actually Ken or
Tom) I used Cherry rivets as I recall.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
Lycoming part # 69443 rocker arm- intake or exhaust ?
#68520 rocker arm- intake or exhaust ?
The Lyc parts manual appears to indicate can be used on either but I find it
hard to believe.
Any help is appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
103034.422(at)compuserve.com, 70007.4644(at)compuserve.com,
76477.1200(at)compuserve.com, WWTPENGR(at)aol.com, Batya(at)idt.net,
yakko70(at)aol.com, kapman(at)interlog.com, Hedons4fun(at)aol.com,
COMMPILOT(at)earthlink.net, 75573.2227(at)compserve.com,
Lenka Miklusova , JenLogo(at)aol.com, mam34(at)aol.com,
Johnmath(at)iafrica.com, hmauskop(at)colybrand.com, MNS(at)Kalamazoo.net,
arnieo(at)concom.com, champ(at)zeus.anet-c, mike(at)microframe.usa.com,
zenith(at)pixie.com.za, bernie(at)iaccess.za, LeeRad(at)Norfolk.infi.net,
lillian(at)microframe.usa.com, radomsky(at)nerc1.nerc.com, ltdann(at)sisna.com,
rv-list(at)matronics.com, saidwhat(at)iafrica.com, bpeterso(at)voicecue.com,
joystan(at)infi.net, Duvidal(at)aol.com, g50334(at)hwhnfs03.eskom.co.za,
csmith2(at)artic.edu, char(at)crystal.chem.nwu.edu, pstodel(at)oldmutual.com,
Jeep89(at)ixnetcom.com, 74464.133(at)compuserve.com
Hi,
This is Glenn & Judi Gordon! We're writing to tell everyone that our
e-mail address has been changed. Our new adress is
glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com
Thank you,
Glenn & Judi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
Hello listers:
In the back of my mind I've been wondering what it's going to cost to
insure my RV-8 when it's ready to fly. I recently cancelled my insurance on
my Cherokee so while I had my insurance agent on the phone I asked for a
quote on a hypothetical completed RV-8.
Here's the info. I gave her:
TT: 650 hours
Tailwheel: 75 hours
Hull Value: $60,000
Liability: $100,000 per person; $1,000,000 property; $1,000,000 each
accident
Deductible: $300 in motion and not in motion
EAA national member
EAA local chapter member
Yes to Tech Counselor program
Yes to Flight Advisor program
Yes to Hangared
Liability: $350.00
Hull: $1,382.00
Total Annual Premium: $1,732.00
This quote is from National Aviation Underwriters (NAU), a division of
Avemco. The representative I've always dealt with is Cindy Gee,
(800)638-8440. She indicated that RV-8's are rated on the same scale as
RV-4's. RV-6's are apparently one scale lower.
In addition to the above, a 9% discount is allowed when I've achieved more
than 100hrs tailwheel time. Another 9% is given when I reach 1400*TT and
greater than 250 hrs tailwheel time. The * next to TT means that it's TT
for insurance purposes which is your actual TT plus tailwheel hours plus
make & model time. Strange, but I guess it gives credit for familiarity
which should count for something.
Please remember, folks, that you _do not_ want to lower the value you place
on your Hull to lower your insurance costs. Whatever stated value you use
is the amount for which you are agreeing to sell your plane to the
insurance company should an accident happen. For example, if you had a prop
strike with your brand new engine and propeller and did $10,000 worth of
damage and your stated hull value is $30,000, the insurance company could
write you a check for $30,000 and keep your bent bird _with_ the $20,000
worth of King radios, all your instruments and your airframe. If they could
sell your salvaged bird for any thing more than $20,000 they'd be money
ahead by just totalling your airplane and paying you the $30,000. The moral
of the story is that you should either insure the hull for what it's worth
to you or not at all.
I don't work for anybody, I'm just passing this on as an FYI to others who
might be interested. As a point of reference, my Cherokee 140 was costing
me about $500 per year with the same NAU policy. (half the hull value of
the RV-8)
Best to all.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
compuserve.com!SAJ_SLJ(at)matronics.com wrote:
> -I expect to be finishing the rudder skeleton this week. It appears
> as
> though I can reach these rivets with Avery bucking bar #620 that came
> with
> thier tool kit.
I don't think so. I'm not sure which is the #620, but I bought Avery's
starter kit, and the bar that came with it didn't reach. I ended up
making a bar out of an old vise-jaw, grinding the surfaces at one end to
the correct angle. Not really heavy enough, but it did do the trick in
the end.
> The problem (?) is that I would be using an unpolished
> surface of the bucking bar. What are the consequences / dangers of
> using an
> unpolished surface?
You'll get a dimply pattern on the top of the rivet, which will
presumably weaken it a bit. Just use a file to smooth the bar's surface
you want to use. Also, round off the corners a little.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Blair Tyson" <blairtyson(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Installing/timing mags |
Richard,
I just completed the replacement of points and condenser in a Slick mag
this weekend. Here are the steps for internal timing and
synchronization.
1. For a left mag, align the "L" on the rotor gear (small gear)
adjacent to the coil terminal. This is the part of the coil that the
electrode from the distributor gear rotates on. You will feel the
magnets in the rotor couple with the coil primary in this position. If
you are 180 degrees out of phase, the "L" will be opposite the coil
terminal. Also note that the "R" on the rotor gear will not couple in
either of these positions; this is a good double check for which mag you
are working on.
2. For the distributor gear, position a drift punch through the small
hole in the case labeled "L". Rotate the gear until the "L" on the gear
(and corresponding hole) is lined up with the punch.
3. For a right mag, perform the same steps above, but substitute "R"
for "L".
4. Assemble the two case halves together, making sure the rotor gear
does not shift position. Internal timing is now complete.
5. Find TDC on cylinder #1. Rotate prop in opposite direction about 35
degrees. Move prop to align the 25 degree BTDC timing mark on the
flywheel with the dot on the starter housing. You can confirm this
position with a spinner mounted timing tool if you have one. Position
the mags in the accessory case (with gasket) and loosely clamp.
6. Remove the alignment punch from the mag (this is a critical step).
Connect the timing light and rotate the mag until the light is "on".
Tighten clamps slightly. Rotate prop backwards about 15-20 degrees and
slowly return to the timing mark. Light should turn on. You may have
to tweak the mag position to get the light to come on at the right
position. Repeat these steps for the right mag as well. When properly
timed, both timing lights will illuminate when the 25 degree BTDC marks
are aligned.
Hope this helps.
Blair Tyson
PA28-161, RV6A wantabe
From: Richard Bibb[SMTP:fore.com!rbibb(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Monday, July 07, 1997 6:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: Installing/timing mags
Someone please verify the installation procedure for slick mags on an
0-320.
_______________________________________________________
Get Private Web-Based Email Free http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
I have polished many of the unfinished faces of the bucking bars Avery and
others sell.
I used a belt sander to take down most of the surface and then polish those
surfaces with a Scoth-brite wheel either the " or 1"-2" wheels in a die
grinder.
Works Great
Good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
I am getting ready to fit the rudder skeleton to the vertical stabilizer.=
=
The instructions simple say to check the fit. The plans don't give much
help. =
The plans show the rod end bearings on the elevator to be 13/16" from the=
elevator spar. There is no equivalent drawing for the rudder. How do I
set the rod end bearings for this fit? Should the rudder spar then be a
constant distance from the VS spar and if so what is the spacing? I
believe the distance is not constant because the radius of the rudder
leading edge is not and therefore adjustments will need to be made after
the rudder is complete.
The instructions say to check the clearance of the counterweight spar and=
the VS. Since this is flexable at this time how can this be checked
accurately before the rudder skin is in place?
Thanks
Scott
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSHKOSH question |
--=_ORCL_22954488_0_11919707071911590
Malia,
Camp Scholler is a BIG place, and to my knowledge, has never filled up completely.
If you are
planning on arriving on Sunday, you should have your pick of sites. A whole lot
of people
(including myself, this year) leave on Sunday, so quite a number of campsites should
open
up. There are buses that run through the campground every 10-15 mins and take
you to the
gate.
Suggestion: Bring an extra 200' of light rope and a few extra tent stakes. When
you pick out
your campsite, circle it with the rope (staking your claim, so to speak). 99%
of the
campers are extraordiarily nice people, but in '95 I ended up next to part of the
1% who
weren't, and ended up arguing with them at length over how much room I could use
to set up my
little 10x10 tent. I finally caved in and moved a little further out, but ended
up next to
some wonderful new friends and I was closer to the bathroom to boot. Live and
learn.
Steve
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
*************************************************************************
--=_ORCL_22954488_0_11919707071911590
Date: 07 Jul 97 09:03:52
From:"Malia Mondy "
Subject:RV-List: OSHKOSH question
I'm hoping to go to OshKosh for my first time -- plans are to arrive up
there about sunset Sunday evening. Anybody have any experience with the EAA
campground -- will there still be any camping space left there by that time
of day? Maybe will the crowds be less by Sunday night?? I just don't know
what to expect there. At national park campgrounds that don't take
reservations, you generally have to arrive by noon to be fairly sure of
getting a campsite. . .
Reply to the list, if you think there's interest, or to me off-list at:
malia(at)truman.edu
Thanks,
Malia Mondy
--=_ORCL_22954488_0_11919707071911590--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
The consequence of using the unpolished face of a bucking bar to form the
shop head is that the head of the rivet will be dinged or scratched. I
guessed that this might eventually lead to cracks in the shop head,. In
these situations I use the belt sander and 3M wheel to polish these surfaces.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSHKOSH question |
Have gone to Oshkosh on various days in past years, and have never had a
problem finding a camping spot. If there is a lot of rain, the number of
camping sights could be reduced due to access to areas of the fields.
W.B. RV6 wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: OSHKOSH question |
Sunday night is a good choice at OSH but you need to time it right. After
the airshow but before Sunset. Sometimes that window is a little small. But
there should be plenty of room by then.
Rob Miller
RV8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
Scott
>You sure got my heart beating this morning. I just finished this assembly
>fro my -8 and didn't use any flush rivets, thought I had messed up bad.
>Just ran out to the shop to check and apparently the -8 is done the way you
>saw in the video.
Sorry for the increase in heart rate, but you have to get your aerobic
exercise somehow.
>The K-1000 nutplate "to be installed when reinforcement Plate is attached
>to R802 spar." Since the nutplate is attached at the same time it
>obviuously cannot beCS riveted to the 405. Two rivets attach the spar,
>reinforcement plate, rib, and horn. Two more attach everything but the
>nutplate. This results in four rivets on the rib, two on each side of the
>slot cut for the rod end bearing.
>
>Sounds like this is an improvement to the rudder and you got new parts and
>old plans.
Glad to hear that I haven't screwed up like I thought. Having 4 rivets
hold the rib securely sounds a lot stronger than just the 2 my plans show.
My only problem is that with all of the parts primered I am going to have
to use AN470 4-9 rivets and none came with the kit so I will have to order
them.
Thanks for the response
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
>For the past two summers I have seen "for sale" signs on the first day of
>'Kosh and S&F. Then they were removed. When questioned, someone told me
>they were no longer allowed. This didn't sound right, and I been unable to
>confirm.
>But....I have not seen "for sale signs" on the props since 1995. You can,
>of course, put a sign inside the cockpit, and I have seen some of these. I
>really hope I am mistaken about the above.
>
>Louis Willig.
Louis,
My understanding is that you can not advertise your airplane for sale.
I've never seen this addressed in Sport Aviation or in any of the handouts
at the fly-ins. Maybe you can have a small sign inside, I don't know.
Maybe EAA wants people to pay for "vendor rights" before you can sell
anything. Maybe they can't stand the thought of commerce going on unless
they get a cut. "For sale" signs on the prop look a little tacky but small
signs in the cockpit sure don't bother me.
If I go to OSH, I might put a for sale sign on my plane just to see what
happens. I've been having second thoughts about attending OSH or S&F.
Think about it. WE take our time and money to fly in, pay ever increasing
charges to attend the fly-in, camp and for food (?) and then have our
airplanes exposed to thousands of swinging chairs, cameras, belt buckles,
sticky fingered kids and adults who just can't help putting their paws all
over the airplanes. A couple of years ago, I came back to my RV-6 to find
a rather large woman sitting on the ground in the shade, leaning against the
fuselage, watching the airshow. When I asked her to move she told me this
was her spot and I should go find my own (in not to "lady like" language.)
I told her that I'd spent 5 years and $ 35,000 to manufacture that shade and
that she was welcome to the same. More naughty words were forthcoming as
she left.
Sorry, didn't mean to ramble on but this has been a sore spot with me.
The EAA is supposed to be about airplanes and we're the ones taking our time
and money supplying them and sometimes, I don't feel like we end up on the
good end of the deal. I have "uh ohs" that have happened to my RV-6 in two
years of going to fly-ins. That's four more than I've put on the plane, so
yes, I'm a litle touchy. How do the rest of you with flying airplanes cope
with the situation? Stay around the plane all of the time? That's not
really practical. Or, do you just figure the dings and dents are part of
the price of admission?
I do really enjoy visiting with other builders and listers. I may just
concentrate on Burlington, this year. There should be a lot of both. And
best of all, no annoucers on loudspeakers all of the time, few tourists, no
warbirds---just row after row of beautiful, metal airplanes:)
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Engines from a twin apache |
I'm looking at buying a Piper twin apache for the engines. A friend of
mine is going in on it to get one of the engines for his RV-6 project
and I will be using it on my RV-6. My question is what can any one tell
me about the engines on Apaches. I believe they are all 0320's with 150
hp. They have constant speed props, has anyone one used this
combination on an RV?
Frank Smidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 7/16 in HS spar? |
Mark, Are you trying to start rumors?
I did not see the stabalizer, but if memory serves me correctly it broke
inboard of the point of the trim cable, which would imply it was not a
factor.
There are two possible failure modes if the bars are opened up. If the hole
is not deburred, then with time a stress crack could form. The second
possible result is that this one particular cross section is now
proportionately (sp?) smaller than the rest of the bar with respect to the
loads applied, therefore if the HS were to fail, this would be the likely
spot..
These possibilities do not just exist at this one location, but everywhere
throughout the aircraft, so lets not focus on just this one location. Good
workmanship will prevent these problems, but we do not need to heavily
patrol this aspect any more than setting a good rivet at any location on the
aircraft. Bill
>
>
><< You do *not* want to open the hole up and nick the bars. Bill
> >>
>
>I've been trying how those unlucky fellows in Indiana had that horiz stab
>failure in their -4 (Conjecture on my part. Those involved in the
>investigation haven't said much.). Could this be a tip-off? Bill?
>
>Check six! (for parts following in close formation)
>Mark
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kuhn <peeweebets(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Spring rod |
You will find that the right cutting fluid will save you much money and
time. I can reccommend also that you use 135 degree split point drills
on hard steels such as your tailspring. I don't like oils because they
are not designed to cool the edges of the drill bit as cutting fluids
are. Rapid tap or Tapmatic for steel or aluminum, There are different
formulas for steel and aluminum, Anchor lube for stainless steel, or
Tapmatic gold. For those of you with chattering deburring bits, try the
type of bit that is shaped like a cone wiyh a round hole drilled through
at an angle, these work quite well and are easier to control. On
stainless I prefer to use a single flute straight shank 1/4" bit. No
special alloy required, just the right fluid, Tapmatic for steel. Hope
this helps. Mike, FABTECH, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
We will have a bulletin board in the tent where people can post anything for
sale. Bill
>
>If anyone has, or knows of someone who has an RV-4 for sale that will be in
>'KOSH, let me know. I have several interested friends who are looking. It
>appears that there is some rule that forbids you from putting a "for sale"
>sign on the prop at S&F and at Osh Kosh. Maybe Van will let us put a list
>up in the Tent. How about it, Bill?
>
>Anyone who has a response to my request can contact me privately by e-mail
>or at (610) 668-4964 after PM EDST. Thanks
>
>Louis Willig
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
>>The plans (7pp) show that the K-1000 platenut that is riveted to the
R-405PD is attached by riveting with 2 AN426 4-6 flush head rivets
countersunk into the back of the R-405PD. However, the R602 spar and the=
R606PP spar reinforcement plate have holes already drilled to allow a riv=
et
to go all the way through the R606PP, R602spar, R404 rib, R405PD to the
platenut. <<
TOM
I just did this the other day and found the plans and instructions
mystifying to say the least. I found the -6 rivet too long for riveting t=
he
K-1000 nutplate to the R-405PD if assembled with the head sandwiched
between the R-405PD and the rib/spar, the -6 rivet is also too short if y=
ou
try to rivet the K-1000 nutplate through all the pieces.
I chose to countersink the R-606PP reinforcing plate and use longer
countersunk rivets through all four pieces. I thought the bearing jamnut
might interfear with 470 rivets so used CS, but it looks like there is lo=
ts
of room. =
Initially I was thinking that the R-404 rib end flange needed rivet spaci=
ng
as per rib-spar rivet detail on drawing 3-PP so needed the four rivets
through it, plus the holes are there why not use them. However reviewing
the setup today I think the extra strength offered with the bearing and
nuts and R-410 stiffner probably makes both ways of riveting the K-1000
nutplate acceptable.
George McNutt 6A - Elevators.
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
>>My only problem is that with all of the parts primered I am going to ha=
ve
to use AN470 4-9 rivets and none came with the kit so I will have to orde=
r
them. <<
Tom, =
Check the thickness of the parts. A -8 rivet worked perfectly for me and=
there were some in the RV-8 kit. =
The last time I needed just a couple "larger" rivets (please don't ask) I=
simple stopped into the local airframe repair shop and tried to buy a
handful. After chatting with the owner for a while about airplanes, I
walked out with about $1.00 of free rivets. And I didn't have to wait for=
UPS! Of course, I'll go back when I need to actually spend money and
support his business!
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines from a twin apache |
>
>I'm looking at buying a Piper twin apache for the engines. A friend of
>mine is going in on it to get one of the engines for his RV-6 project
>and I will be using it on my RV-6. My question is what can any one tell
>me about the engines on Apaches. I believe they are all 0320's with 150
>hp. They have constant speed props, has anyone one used this
>combination on an RV?
>
I purchased a engine that was off a Apache, O-320-A3A. The carb. is located
on the aft/bottom of the sump which is ok for -6, but not for -6A. I am
having it overhauled now. The cam needed replacing, it was a narrow lobe
type. The engine was converted to a 160hp via cylinders by the previous
owners. I'm still debating with myself on fuel injection..the price verses
percent of gain is my internal argument. The cylinders are a bit over size
for the hi compression pistons. They had some exhaust cracks that are
repairable. It has a conical type mount. The price was good I guess. I had
purchased the plane it came in (experimental damaged) and sold off most of
what I didn't want. I figure I have $3600 in it before overhaul which I
expect will reach $10,000. So I should have a very good (Hatch Major
Overhauled) engine for approx. $13000. Not a great deal, but with a little
luck not a bad deal. A little less climb power than I had hoped....but Oh
yes it will have a C/S prop.
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
>> I ended up making a bar out of an old vise-jaw, grinding the surfaces =
at
one end to the correct angle. Not really heavy enough, but it did do the
trick in the end.
>>Just use a file to smooth the bar's surface you want to use. Also, roun=
d
off the corners a little.<<
Frank,
Just happened to be across town yesturday. Passing the metal dealer wher=
e
I bot my backing plate for back riveting. I decided to stop by and ended=
up walking out with a 3/4" square bar about 18" long as someone else on t=
he
list suggested. Guess I'll go out to the shop and start pollishing now.
Three weeks ago I didn't know this shop existed, looks like it is going t=
o
come in handy from time to time. They have or can get virtually any meta=
l
including Alclad and they are next door to a fab shop. This may solve ma=
ny
future problems. The people you meet while building airplanes...
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hull Insurance... |
Hello folks:
I wrote the following yesterday:
> > Please remember, folks, that you _do not_ want to lower the value
> > you place on your Hull to lower your insurance costs. Whatever
> > stated value you use is the amount for which you are agreeing to
> > sell your plane to the insurance company should an accident happen.
> > For example, if you had a prop strike with your brand new engine and
> > propeller and did $10,000 worth of damage and your stated hull value
> > is $30,000, the insurance company could write you a check for
> > $30,000 and keep your bent bird _with_ the $20,000 worth of King
> > radios, all your instruments and your airframe. If they could sell
> > your salvaged bird for any thing more than $20,000 they'd be money
> > ahead by just totalling your airplane and paying you the $30,000.
> > The moral of the story is that you should either insure the hull for
> > what it's worth to you or not at all.
Someone politely questioned me off-list so I called my insurance rep. to
make sure I was correct. I was kind of right and kind of wrong... For
Avemco/National anyway, the insurance company _can_ buy you out of your
plane if the damage is = or > than 70% of your insured hull value. For
example: Airplane worth $60,000, person decides to save some money and
only insure for $30,000. Accident happens, does $22,000 worth of damage.
$22,000 is greater than 70% of your hull insurance stated value so the
insurance company writes you a check for $30,000 and keeps your King
radios, autopilot, engine core, etc. etc.
Even with my error, the fact remains that it's really a false economy to
under-insure the hull value of your airplane.
Humbly yours,
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Bob Skinner wrote:
> I've been having second thoughts about attending OSH or S&F.
> Think about it. WE take our time and money to fly in, pay ever
> increasing
> charges to attend the fly-in, camp and for food (?) and then have our
> airplanes exposed to thousands of swinging chairs, cameras, belt
> buckles,
> sticky fingered kids and adults who just can't help putting their paws
> all
> over the airplanes.
>
Right on the money Bob. I usually try to stay away from flaming
subjects, but I have to agree 100%.
Sun and Fun was my first fly-in, in my shiny new airplane. It
was covered with a sandy dust after being parked about 15 minutes. As
the days went by you could see where all of the people and I use that
word loosely, had run their fingers across the surfaces of my airplane.
Not content to look at the airplane with their eyes, they just had to
touch. After the first day I put my canopy cover on and left it on in
hopes they would not lean on my flaps to see the interior of the plane.
I felt bad because I know there are a lot of builders that want to stare
and compare as I did in the early stages of building. The dust couldn't
be avoided, the touching/scratching could.
If my baby can't get the respect she deserves at the larger
fly-ins, then I will only be doing small fly-ins from now on.
--
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
You are sure right about Burlington, Bob. Plenty of RVs, happy people and a
minimum of tourists. Great support from the city and its facilities. Free
transportation to town and to old town, a great banquet and prizes for the
slick and well built airplanes.
Hint for all lurkers and slow builders (aren't we all?): this has got to be
the best bet for getting an RV ride. I even saw Geo. Orndorff give a ride
last year! And it wasn't Becki. Red gave a ride to the Mayor, just to
cement relations with the Texas Republic and Burlington. Even with all that
flying the pattern was uncrowded. I think they must have re routed all the
international traffic for the occasion.
I still don't work for any one but may start consulting for Rod Woodard.
d Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Bob,
I dont have a flying airplane but I sure do understand where you are coming
from. At Chino this year I witnessed a guy help himself to pictures in the
pilot's seat of an RV-4. I didnt realize it wasnt his until I saw him climb
out and walk across the fuel tank to get down. He then proceeded to attempt
to slam the canopy shut with the latch in the closed position putting a few
major dings in the fuse/paint. I confronted him, but I was unable to do
anything about it as there was one of me and three of them. The folks
running the flyin are all EAA chapter volunteers so they arent interested in
any kind of a confrontation. I dont know what else I could have done.
Knowing how much work goes into one of these things, I still get annoyed
when I think about this episode.
On the other hand, if you guys with completed airplanes stop showing up at
flyins, it sure is going to be a major disappointment for those of us who
look to you for inspiration/motivation.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
How do the rest of you with flying airplanes cope
>with the situation? Stay around the plane all of the time? That's not
>really practical. Or, do you just figure the dings and dents are part of
>the price of admission?
> I do really enjoy visiting with other builders and listers. I may just
>concentrate on Burlington, this year. There should be a lot of both. And
>best of all, no annoucers on loudspeakers all of the time, few tourists, no
>warbirds---just row after row of beautiful, metal airplanes:)
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | mars rover driver |
In today's Oregonian there is a picture of Brian Cooper in front of his
computer terminal, complete with battery powered 3-D viewing glasses. On
his bulletin board in the background is an aerial shot of, but what else, an
RV6! kevin 6A - ON GEAR (and baffled!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | rv-6 throttle/prop/mixture cables |
I tried to access the archives for this one but it appears to be down.
My question is about the throttle and prop cables for RV-6 -- I know
there is a problem using the ACS prop cable with Van's bracket. How
about the throttle and mixture? What are the P/Ns for ACS vernier type
throttle/mixture cables that work for RV-6?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Fitting |
>The plans show the rod end bearings on the elevator to be 13/16" from the
>elevator spar. There is no equivalent drawing for the rudder. How do I
>set the rod end bearings for this fit? Should the rudder spar then be a
>constant distance from the VS spar and if so what is the spacing? I
>believe the distance is not constant because the radius of the rudder
>leading edge is not and therefore adjustments will need to be made after
>the rudder is complete.
I just emailed this very question to Van's, and promptly learned that on
plans page 6PP (for the RV-8) there are dimensions called out for the VS
spar to Rudder spar distance. You're supposed to adjust the rod-end
bearings (through trial and error?) to create the correct dimensions. The
top and bottom measurements are indeed different. I haven't quite figured
out yet how to make this measurement at the top end, since the
counterbalance rib gets in the way? It would definitely be easier to have
the spar-to-bearing axis mesurement specified somewhere.
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
>
> If I go to OSH, I might put a for sale sign on my plane just to see what
>happens. I've been having second thoughts about attending OSH or S&F.
>Think about it. WE take our time and money to fly in, pay ever increasing
>charges to attend the fly-in, camp and for food (?) and then have our
>airplanes exposed to thousands of swinging chairs, cameras, belt buckles,
>sticky fingered kids and adults who just can't help putting their paws all
>over the airplanes.
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
Bob, I too worry about airshows and wonder If I should take my airplane. I
think that from now on I will take a small rope and place it around the
plane. This might look tacky to some but I have chased too many kids off the
wings to not do this. Most of the time they are with their parents!
Tom martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
<< If I go to OSH, I might put a for sale sign on my plane just to see what
happens. I've been having second thoughts about attending OSH or S&F.
Think about it. WE take our time and money to fly in, pay ever increasing
charges to attend the fly-in, camp and for food (?) and then have our
airplanes exposed to thousands of swinging chairs, cameras, belt buckles,
sticky fingered kids and adults who just can't help putting their paws all
over the airplane >>
Bob S,
I agree with your comments and I hope a large contingent of RV's show at
Oskosh to honor Van and all the builders of RV's. Mabye we should set up a
volunteer patrol of the RV's. I would be willing to spend a couple of hours
walking among the RV's explaining to people in a nice way to respect the
builders investment of time and money by not touching the airplanes. I also
am not happy with there not being more events and attention given to the
homebuilts during the flying time. I would like to see more time to climb,
slow and fast differences, etc events so prospective buyers could see the
various homebuilts stack up against one another which would go along way in
getting some folks perfomance quotes into realistic numbers. It would be nice
to have something like a CAFE race during the week
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
A MEN BOB! SEE YOU IN BURLINGTON
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | sheet metal brakes |
I am looking for information on smaller, lower cost bending brakes.
I used a friend's 18" sheet metal "hobby" brake the other day to do some
minor bends in .025. This is the little bench mounted brake that Harbor
Freight sells for $18. It is kind of nice, but being made out of alum
is pretty wimpy even for .025. Seems to me the same thing if made out
of steel would be just the ticket for misc small bends. Does anyone
know of anything that's available out there like this?
HF also sells a "Metal Fabrication Kit" for $179.99. I didn't see it in
their catalog (I have an old one) but it's on their web page at
www.harborfreight.com. Anyone have any experience with this? It says
it cuts, bends flanges, rolls, etc. Looks nice but the fact that it
says it bends flanges seems to imply that it won't bend in the middle of
a larger piece. Anyone have, or know anything about this particular
tool, or any other low cost, small sheet metal brake?
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question about washers |
Robert Acker writes:
>
> I think the larger washers are used to cage the joint in case of bearing
> failure. Rather important safety item .
>
Most car race sanctioning bodies require washers like these for
any rod ends that are mounted in single shear, for exactly that
reason. Anyone know if there's a similar FAA requirement?
Tedd McHenry
Vancouver, Canada
(RV-6, plans only)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
[...]
> Sorry, didn't mean to ramble on but this has been a sore spot with me.
>The EAA is supposed to be about airplanes and we're the ones taking our time
>and money supplying them and sometimes, I don't feel like we end up on the
>good end of the deal. I have "uh ohs" that have happened to my RV-6 in two
>years of going to fly-ins. That's four more than I've put on the plane, so
>yes, I'm a litle touchy. How do the rest of you with flying airplanes cope
>with the situation? Stay around the plane all of the time? That's not
>really practical. Or, do you just figure the dings and dents are part of
>the price of admission?
I know exactly what you mean... I don't have an RV, (I'm interested
in building an RV-6 which is why I'm on the list), but I do have an
ultralight, which I have thought about bringing to Oshkosh. It is worth
less than a third of your RV-6, but the concerns you mention have been what
has stopped me from bringing it in. I'd probably never stop worrying all
the way through the convention. I'm always amazed at how little people
value the property and hard work of others.
I don't mean to sound elitist or holier-than-thou, but IMHO, its
going to be even worse this year, now that the EAA is going to let the
general public right down onto the flight line. Previously, all you
had to worry about was fellow builders and the families of builders,
(and aircraft owners), which would (IMHO) probably respect another
person's plane more than the average Joe. Now that the general public
is going to be down on the flight line, I would expect tne number of
"uh ohs" to increase. I hope I'm wrong; I guess time will tell.
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Beckham <76623.1166(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Copy of: Re: Mazda rotary conversion in a Glastar |
---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: Steve Beckham, 76623,1166
DATE: 7/8/97 12:23 PM
RE: Copy of: Re: Mazda rotary conversion in a Glastar
Doug:
You asked whether we will be conducting forums on our rotary aircraft engine at
fly-ins. "Powersport-Mazda Rotary Engine Conversion" Technical Forum at
Arlington is Saturday noon to 1 p.m.
We are also conducting a forum immediately following titled "Direct Drive
Air-Cooled Engine Performance"--to help our Lycoming customers, and others,
learn more about the recips.
Regarding whether we will be there Friday--yes we plan on being there with the
rotary-powered RV-4 not later than Thursday. Of course weather in your neck of
the woods is always in question.
Oshkosh Technical Forums:
1." Dynamometer and Flight -Testing of Experimental Engines," Saturday, Aug.2,
8:30-9:45 a.m., Tent 5
Everett Hatch and Alan Tolle
2. "Powersport-Mazda Rotary Engine Conversion", immediately follows above forum
Saturday, Aug.2, 10-11:15 a.m., Tent 5--Steve Beckham and Everett Hatch
Look forward to seeing you at Arlington.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:rear seat brace: RV-4 |
In the last RVator Van mentioned a fix for the rear seat of the RV-4 to keep
the passenger out of the baggage compartment. Don't have it right here but
I thought it was said that the -4 builders would soon be receiving the "AD"
in the mail. Anyone gotten theirs yet?
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
When and where is the Burlington Fly-In....?
Thank You,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, workin on the instrument panel.
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A availability |
| From: | gabbyewen(at)juno.com (Rusty L. Ewen) |
After having the privilege of owning a RV-6A for almost a year,
but then having to sell, I find myself looking in earnest for another.
Anyone know of an "almost" complete or completed RV-6A for sale? Has been
9 weeks, 4 days, approximately 17 hours since I've been an owner of an
"Experimental" aircraft. Needless to say, "withdrawal" symptoms have set
in. Any help would be
appreciated.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
It seems to me that a good investment would be about a dozen tall rods that
you could drive into the ground around your airplane and a rope to tie to the
tops of them. (And maybe a second rope at the middle to discourage ducking
under)
One of those alarms that you can hang from a hotel room doorknob would protect
the canopy from being opened. It's a shame. Most pilots have respect for
aircraft, but at a big show like OshKosh, you're dealing with the General
Public as well as the pilot community, so some measures are necessary.
On the other hand, how many complainers have so much as a "Do Not Touch" sign
posted? You can't expect people to obey rules of ettiquette they are ignorant
of.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ciolino <jbc1(at)ziplink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Fitting |
Scott,
Just crossed this bridge myself and had the same question. Look on page
6PP of the plans, lower left corner. The rod ends are set to give a 2" gap
between rudder and HS spar at the top and 2.5" at the bottom. For me the
lower rod end was completely screwed in to reach the 2.5" distance.
In his video, George O. stabilized the top rudder rib by clecoing a brace
between the top rib and the rudder spar at about a 45 degree angle. What I
did was to mount the rudder, drilled a #40 hole in the rib and cleco the
brace. Then shim the rib to an even gap and drill a #40 hole in the spar
to fit the other end of the brace. Bend the tab on the top of the spar to
let the rib set lightly in position before drilling the brace in place.
Boy, hard to believe I'm answering questions instead of asking them!
>
>I am getting ready to fit the rudder skeleton to the vertical stabilizer.
>The instructions simple say to check the fit. The plans don't give much
>help.
>
>The plans show the rod end bearings on the elevator to be 13/16" from the
>elevator spar. There is no equivalent drawing for the rudder. How do I
>set the rod end bearings for this fit? Should the rudder spar then be a
>constant distance from the VS spar and if so what is the spacing? I
>believe the distance is not constant because the radius of the rudder
>leading edge is not and therefore adjustments will need to be made after
>the rudder is complete.
>
>The instructions say to check the clearance of the counterweight spar and
>the VS. Since this is flexable at this time how can this be checked
>accurately before the rudder skin is in place?
>
>Thanks
>
>Scott
>80331
>N733JJ
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
John Ciolino RV-8
jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
Tom,
I used 8's in this area also,which were supplied with my kit.they worked
fine.
chris marion
RV-6 rudder
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Fitting |
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
>
>
>
> I am getting ready to fit the rudder skeleton to the vertical
> stabilizer.
> The instructions simple say to check the fit. The plans don't give
> much help.
>
> The plans show the rod end bearings on the elevator to be 13/16" from
> the elevator spar. There is no equivalent drawing for the rudder. How do
> I set the rod end bearings for this fit? Should the rudder spar then be
> a constant distance from the VS spar and if so what is the spacing? I
> believe the distance is not constant because the radius of the rudder
> leading edge is not and therefore adjustments will need to be made
> after the rudder is complete.
>
> The instructions say to check the clearance of the counterweight spar
> and the VS. Since this is flexable at this time how can this be checked
> accurately before the rudder skin is in place?
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott
> 80331
> N733JJ
>
Scott, hi
Try starting with 3/4" for the top rod end, 15/16" for the middle, and
15/16" for the bottom (there is an extra thickness for the reinforcing
plate at the bottom). The rudder spar is not parallel to the VS spar.
My counterbalance came out fine, except the step at the top of the VS
skin was a bit close so I trimmed it about 1/8". This allows a smaller
gap between rudder and VS.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
>A couple of years ago, I came back to my RV-6 to find
>a rather large woman sitting on the ground in the shade, leaning against the
>fuselage, watching the airshow...
My RV-6 isn't finished yet, but I'm already having similar worries about
bringing it to fly-ins and airshows where the general public are allowed to
roam. A couple of years ago, I watched one old senilizoid put a nasty
scratch in a wingtip with his camera.
I've toyed with the idea of surrounding the airplane with traffic cones and
caution tape.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Avionics & electrical installed
engine assembly in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
As some of you may remember, I purchased a runout IO320-B1A about 18 months
ago. It is being overhauled, and now that I have some nearly-final cost
figures, I thought I would share them with you:
1. Engine was acquired with 1950 SMOH and approx 3800 TT for $4500. The
engine was out of a Part 135 Twin Comanche and I acquired it 'firewall
forward'. (anybody need a Twin Comanche dynafocal mount? ;-) )
2. Since the cylinders were at the end of their second run, I chose to
discard them and purchase four Superior Millenium cylinders. While this
was expensive ($4260), it was only $600-$800 more than having the old
cylinders overhauled.
3. The crankshaft is still standard dimensions (It did not need to be
ground). I got lucky.
4. I spent about $2200 having the bottom-end parts inspected and
yellow-tagged. This amount included:
- Replacing one connecting rod
- New oil pump housing and oil pump gears
- minor accessory case work to accomodate the new style oil pump
- milling and line-boring the crankcase
- replacing three of the four gears in the accessory case.
- Yellow-tagging the crankshaft, camshaft, and lifters
5. Lycon's labor to inspect the parts, order new parts, assemble the engine
and test run it: $2500
6. Approximately $1500 for bearings, rod bolts, gaskets, seals etc
7. $1250 for B & C Specialties Starter, Alternator, and voltage regulator.
8. approx $875 for new Slick mags and harness.
9. Overhaul of the Bendins fuel injection servo and flow divider by Airflow
Performance: aprox: $310
WHen you start doing the math, it adds up to a pretty big number. Darn
close, in fact to what Van gets for a new one. And certaily more than the
prices quoted in the last RVator for what Eustace Bowhay and Bart Lalonde
are selling overhauled engines for.
Granted, my engine did not have to cost that much. I could have overhauled
the old cylinders. I had originally planned to re-assemble it myself under
the supervision of an A&P friend, which would have saved another $2500. So
I could have gotten by quite a bit cheaper.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Fitting |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
>There is no equivalent drawing for the rudder. How do
>I set the rod end bearings for this fit? Should the rudder spar then be
>a constant distance from the VS spar and if so what is the spacing? I
>believe the distance is not constant because the radius of the rudder
>leading edge is not and therefore adjustments will need to be made
>after the rudder is complete.
>
>The instructions say to check the clearance of the counterweight spar
>and the VS. Since this is flexable at this time how can this be checked
>accurately before the rudder skin is in place?
Scott,
You did not say, but it sounds like you are building an RV-8(?) On the
RV-4 the rudder spar is NOT parallel to the vertical stab spar. The
plans called out the distance between rudder and stab spars at the tip
and at the root. I adjusted the top and bottom rod ends to achieve these
dimensions, then adjusted the middle one to fit.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 installing gear leg fairings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Kudos Bob,
And this year the flight line is unrestricted. Now everyone, aviation
related or not gets to damage your airplane. At one fly-in where the
general public was permitted around the airplanes I stopped a woman from
standing her kid on a fabric horizontal. They just don't understand!
Dan Morris
----------
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: Morristec
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Osh Kosh Sales Lot
> Date: Tuesday, July 08, 1997 4:37 AM
>
>
> Received: from netcomsv.netcom.com [163.179.3.8] by bbs.icdc.com with
smtp
> Received: from matronics.com by netcomsv.netcom.com with UUCP
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1)
> Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 22:19:44 -0500
> Message-Id: <199707080319.WAA56586(at)iac6.navix.net>
> X-Sender: bs65802(at)mail.ltec.net
> X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> From: Bob Skinner <navix.net!BSkinner(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Osh Kosh Sales Lot
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> >For the past two summers I have seen "for sale" signs on the first day
of
> >'Kosh and S&F. Then they were removed. When questioned, someone told me
> >they were no longer allowed. This didn't sound right, and I been unable
to
> >confirm.
> >But....I have not seen "for sale signs" on the props since 1995. You
can,
> >of course, put a sign inside the cockpit, and I have seen some of these.
I
> >really hope I am mistaken about the above.
> >
> >Louis Willig.
>
> Louis,
> My understanding is that you can not advertise your airplane for sale.
> I've never seen this addressed in Sport Aviation or in any of the
handouts
> at the fly-ins. Maybe you can have a small sign inside, I don't know.
> Maybe EAA wants people to pay for "vendor rights" before you can sell
> anything. Maybe they can't stand the thought of commerce going on unless
> they get a cut. "For sale" signs on the prop look a little tacky but
small
> signs in the cockpit sure don't bother me.
> If I go to OSH, I might put a for sale sign on my plane just to see
what
> happens. I've been having second thoughts about attending OSH or S&F.
> Think about it. WE take our time and money to fly in, pay ever
increasing
> charges to attend the fly-in, camp and for food (?) and then have our
> airplanes exposed to thousands of swinging chairs, cameras, belt buckles,
> sticky fingered kids and adults who just can't help putting their paws
all
> over the airplanes. A couple of years ago, I came back to my RV-6 to
find
> a rather large woman sitting on the ground in the shade, leaning against
the
> fuselage, watching the airshow. When I asked her to move she told me
this
> was her spot and I should go find my own (in not to "lady like"
language.)
> I told her that I'd spent 5 years and $ 35,000 to manufacture that shade
and
> that she was welcome to the same. More naughty words were forthcoming as
> she left.
> Sorry, didn't mean to ramble on but this has been a sore spot with me.
> The EAA is supposed to be about airplanes and we're the ones taking our
time
> and money supplying them and sometimes, I don't feel like we end up on
the
> good end of the deal. I have "uh ohs" that have happened to my RV-6 in
two
> years of going to fly-ins. That's four more than I've put on the plane,
so
> yes, I'm a litle touchy. How do the rest of you with flying airplanes
cope
> with the situation? Stay around the plane all of the time? That's not
> really practical. Or, do you just figure the dings and dents are part of
> the price of admission?
> I do really enjoy visiting with other builders and listers. I may just
> concentrate on Burlington, this year. There should be a lot of both.
And
> best of all, no annoucers on loudspeakers all of the time, few tourists,
no
> warbirds---just row after row of beautiful, metal airplanes:)
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders |
Avery Tools sells a very nice instrument hole punch that cuts 3 1/8"
and 2 1/4" holes in instrument panels quickly and easily. It's a
bit pricey at $99. The good news is that Bob Avery will rent it for
$10-$15 for a week or two. When I arranged to rent one Bob told me
to go ahead and let the list members know this offer is available
even though it isn't listed in the catalog. I'm using one right
now, and I think it's worth the rental price. It does a very nice
job of cutting instrument panel holes. No ragged edge, no
significant bending of the panel.
Several months ago a lister (I forgot who, sorry) offered several
RV-6 instrument panel pictures (from a fly in) for the price of
reprinting and postage. In one of those pictures there's a neat
little cup holder which looks like it would hold two cans of soda.
It appears to be made of plastic, and it retracts into the
instrument panel. Does anybody know where that cup holder, or a
similar one, can be purchased?
I've designed and prototyped an aluminum one, but I think the one
depicted in that picture would look better than the unit I'd make.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
>TOM
>
>I just did this the other day and found the plans and instructions
>mystifying to say the least. I found the -6 rivet too long for riveting the
>K-1000 nutplate to the R-405PD if assembled with the head sandwiched
>between the R-405PD and the rib/spar, the -6 rivet is also too short if you
>try to rivet the K-1000 nutplate through all the pieces.
Ditto
>I chose to countersink the R-606PP reinforcing plate and use longer
>countersunk rivets through all four pieces. I thought the bearing jamnut
>might interfear with 470 rivets so used CS, but it looks like there is lots
>of room.
I came to the same conclusion except I am going to use the 470 rivets.
>Initially I was thinking that the R-404 rib end flange needed rivet spacing
>as per rib-spar rivet detail on drawing 3-PP so needed the four rivets
>through it, plus the holes are there why not use them. However reviewing
>the setup today I think the extra strength offered with the bearing and
>nuts and R-410 stiffner probably makes both ways of riveting the K-1000
>nutplate acceptable.
>George McNutt 6A - Elevators.
You are probably right, but I would work about the nut working loose and
then vibration and flexing working on the rib. I called Vans this morning
and put the question to John. He said to put rivets through the whole
assembly instead of countersinking a 4-6 through the 405PD.
Thanks and Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv-6 throttle/prop/mixture cables |
<< I know
there is a problem using the ACS prop cable with Van's bracket. How
about the throttle and mixture? What are the P/Ns for ACS vernier type
throttle/mixture cables that work for RV-6? >>
Randall-
I've posted an extensive explanation of this in the archives so I hope you
can get to it. I have drawings for throttle/mixture bracket and governor
bracket that work with the ACS cables (those with the teleflex type end
ferrules) that I would be happy to send you. My governor cable is 60" long,
the throttle 48" long and the mixture 45" long. Al have 10-32 threaded ends.
The saddle clamps and spacers are available from Airstar. I also designed a
three gang firewall grommet bracket that I have a drawing for.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Van Zant <rvanzant(at)van.inc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
> AMEN BOB! SEE YOU IN BURLINGTON
When is Burlington (Iowa, right?)?
thanks,
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:rear seat brace: RV-4 |
<< In the last RVator Van mentioned a fix for the rear seat of the RV-4 to
keep
the passenger out of the baggage compartment. Don't have it right here but
I thought it was said that the -4 builders would soon be receiving the "AD"
in the mail. Anyone gotten theirs yet?
>>
Mike:
Check the -6 drawings for the same area. We use a pc like that in our birds.
It's a pc of 025, sort of triangle shaped with a flange bent up on two sides,
and it rivets to the top longeron and the back of the #7 bulkhead to keep it
from failing rearward.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 7/16 in HS spar? |
<< Mark, Are you trying to start rumors?
I did not see the stabalizer, but if memory serves me correctly it broke
inboard of the point of the trim cable, which would imply it was not a
factor.
>>
Bill:
No, a rumor is what *I* heard, and I'm trying to find out what really
happened. I think most on the list have heard of this accident, but no cause
has been published to my knowledge. Has there been a ruling on the cause of
this accident yet? It sounds like the failure was at a seemingly strong part
of the stab.
I fly one of these types, so I'm interested in possible failure modes. I know
of more than a few folks who twist and flip their -4's quite a bit, but no
problems have surfaced.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sheet metal brakes |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> I am looking for information on smaller, lower cost bending brakes.
>
> I used a friend's 18" sheet metal "hobby" brake the other day to do
> some
> minor bends in .025. This is the little bench mounted brake that
> Harbor
> Freight sells for $18. It is kind of nice, but being made out of alum
> is pretty wimpy even for .025. Seems to me the same thing if made out
> of steel would be just the ticket for misc small bends. Does anyone
> know of anything that's available out there like this?
>
> HF also sells a "Metal Fabrication Kit" for $179.99. I didn't see it
> in
> their catalog (I have an old one) but it's on their web page at
> www.harborfreight.com. Anyone have any experience with this? It says
> it cuts, bends flanges, rolls, etc. Looks nice but the fact that it
> says it bends flanges seems to imply that it won't bend in the middle
> of
> a larger piece. Anyone have, or know anything about this particular
> tool, or any other low cost, small sheet metal brake?
>
> Randall Henderson
> randall(at)edt.com
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
Randall, hi
I bought an 18" bending brake from Aircraft Spruce for $22.50. It is
made of steel and works great.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | REEVES322(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engines from a twin apache |
I have a RV-4 flying since 1990 with a 0-320 and constant speed prop from a
Moony. Combination has worked fine. Although on a RV-6 I would hesitate to
use a constant speed because of the added weight, on a -4 the extra weight
forward is a help. But for performance, I dont believe it makes much
difference because they get in the air so quick anyway. In cruise it might
help fuel economy slightly. My suggestion is to use the engines, sell the
props, buy something else u need with the bucks, good luck. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)MAIL.SAGE.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Take along some 3-5 ft metal rods and a lot of yellow tapeto wrap around
your bird. It may keep some of the clowns away.
Bruce
>
>[...]
>> Sorry, didn't mean to ramble on but this has been a sore spot with me.
>>The EAA is supposed to be about airplanes and we're the ones taking our time
>>and money supplying them and sometimes, I don't feel like we end up on the
>>good end of the deal. I have "uh ohs" that have happened to my RV-6 in two
>>years of going to fly-ins. That's four more than I've put on the plane, so
>>yes, I'm a litle touchy. How do the rest of you with flying airplanes cope
>>with the situation? Stay around the plane all of the time? That's not
>>really practical. Or, do you just figure the dings and dents are part of
>>the price of admission?
>
> I know exactly what you mean... I don't have an RV, (I'm interested
>in building an RV-6 which is why I'm on the list), but I do have an
>ultralight, which I have thought about bringing to Oshkosh. It is worth
>less than a third of your RV-6, but the concerns you mention have been what
>has stopped me from bringing it in. I'd probably never stop worrying all
>the way through the convention. I'm always amazed at how little people
>value the property and hard work of others.
>
> I don't mean to sound elitist or holier-than-thou, but IMHO, its
>going to be even worse this year, now that the EAA is going to let the
>general public right down onto the flight line. Previously, all you
>had to worry about was fellow builders and the families of builders,
>(and aircraft owners), which would (IMHO) probably respect another
>person's plane more than the average Joe. Now that the general public
>is going to be down on the flight line, I would expect tne number of
>"uh ohs" to increase. I hope I'm wrong; I guess time will tell.
>
>
> -Jon-
>
> .- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
> | DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
> | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
> `---------------------------------------------------------------------'
> I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:rear seat brace: RV-4 |
NO! Bruce Bell, rv4bell(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: sheet metal brakes |
>I am looking for information on smaller, lower cost bending brakes.
>Randall Henderson
I bought the plans for an 18" made out of locally procured angle iron.
I'm not sure, but it may have been put out by George Orndorf. It did a
great job for me. Cost of material was about 8-10 bucks from my local
welding shop, some hack saw work, no welding. Any larger stuff, I went down
to the local air conditioner contractor, got into a BS session with him
about flying and mentioned my home built, eventually that I was having
troubles bending some large sheets of alum. Bless his sole, he offered me
the use of his 60" wide bending brake anytime I needed it if he could get a
look at the airplane. Didn't cost me anything except being nice and
spreading the interest of home builts.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: mars rover driver |
Hi Kelvin,
This comming weeks People magazine will have two pages about Brian Cooper
and the Mars Rover.
Lynne (Mrs Cooper) wrote the following "and I rummaged through piles of
photographs at home - so they might even include a picture of his
in-progress airplane!" So maybe Brian's Quickbuild RV6 will get some
national exposure this comming week.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>In today's Oregonian there is a picture of Brian Cooper in front of
>his
>computer terminal, complete with battery powered 3-D viewing glasses.
>On
>his bulletin board in the background is an aerial shot of, but what
>else, an
>RV6! kevin 6A - ON GEAR (and baffled!)
>
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders |
Tim,
Possibly an auto salvage yard special? My wife's Ford Taurus has a cup
holder like you describe.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Several months ago a lister (I forgot who, sorry) offered several
>RV-6 instrument panel pictures (from a fly in) for the price of
>reprinting and postage. In one of those pictures there's a neat
>little cup holder which looks like it would hold two cans of soda.
>It appears to be made of plastic, and it retracts into the
>instrument panel. Does anybody know where that cup holder, or a
>similar one, can be purchased?
>
>I've designed and prototyped an aluminum one, but I think the one
>depicted in that picture would look better than the unit I'd make.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim Lewis
>---------------------
>Tim Lewis
>RV-6AQ #60023
>San Antonio TX
>timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>-----------------------
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
I know this isn't strictly RV related but I also know there are some
people who work for GPS manufacturers on this list (and perhaps some
others who have inside knowledge about the things) and I was just
wondering if anyone "in the know" has any knowledge about the future of
IFR GPSs as concerns the cost of the database updates. Is there a
chance that these will become more affordable in the future? I am
debating whether to get an IFR GPS or just go with a VOR based Nav/Com.
The GPS costs more but the real tough pill to swallow is the ongoing
expense of those updates -- $450-600/year -- yikes!
Feel free to email responses directly to me if you think it is too far
off the subject of RVs.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Guys,
This is especially true this year at Oshkosh. No one will be excluded
from the flight line. As long as they have a general admission ticket,
they can all go and climb on your planes. I wrote a letter to Tom
Poberezny complaining about the change in admission policy and he said "
that's what we have decided and we think it's best for EAA"!!!! My Rv-6
isn't finished yet, so I don't have to worry this year. Eventually I will
have that worry though. People like Van should really lean on them to
change their thinking. They don't care what we little people think. Good
luck.
Mal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft sales at OSH |
RVers,
I called EAA and they said that it was permissable to put a for sale sign
for your airplane in the cockpit area. They could not tell me about S&F as
this show is put on by an EAA chapter and has it's own rules. Anyone
wanting to find out if advertising a plane for sale at S&F is allowed can
call 941-644-2431.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz> |
I'm looking for a compressor for my garage-soon-to-be-home for an RV8 kit -
I've read the specs mentioned in the FAQ, but as that this is a reasonably
important part of the tools that I am about to buy, I wanted to make sure I
get it right, and would appreciate any assistance from the list.
A local hardware chain is offering the Abel Cooke (brand) Maverick (model),
8.5 cfm displacement, 115 psi, 2 hp for NZ$449 (about $300 US). They also
have compressors in the same range that cost up up to NZ$1500. Is the
Maverick too small for my needs (rivetting and painting)? Does anyone know
this brand? What questions do I need to ask, and what size reservoir should
I be looking for?
Many thanks in advance!
Chris Hinch
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
RV-8 builder-to-be
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
>My understanding is that you can not advertise your airplane for sale.
>I've never seen this addressed in Sport Aviation or in any of the handouts
>at the fly-ins. Maybe you can have a small sign inside,
Many MANY airplanes are bought and sold at OSH. There are signs in windows
EVERYwhere. I don't think they want you to hang a FOR SALE sign on the
prop, but a small sign in the window is a common sight.
I worry about my airplane at fly-ins and some people probably think it
strange for me to do a mini preflight to see what has been broken off/dinged
etc. before I leave at the one day affairs. At OSH I don't park up in the
flight line; I am back in the camping and usually the general public is not
going to walk that far. I still get a "grass shadow" every year but not
like on the main flight line. The prop signs that describe your airplane
all have DO NOT TOUCH on them, for what good it does. Mine also has a sign
IN it saying DON'T TOUCH MY WIFE OR MY AIRPLANE, in so many words....
I still have people mess with it.
Alas........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders |
Tim,
The cup holder I saw was in Mark Myers RV-6 and came out of a Toyota. Don't
know what model, but I will probably see him this weekend at Arlington, WA and
will ask and post info.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Lewis
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 1997 3:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders
<timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
Avery Tools sells a very nice instrument hole punch that cuts 3 1/8"
and 2 1/4" holes in instrument panels quickly and easily. It's a
bit pricey at $99. The good news is that Bob Avery will rent it for
$10-$15 for a week or two. When I arranged to rent one Bob told me
to go ahead and let the list members know this offer is available
even though it isn't listed in the catalog. I'm using one right
now, and I think it's worth the rental price. It does a very nice
job of cutting instrument panel holes. No ragged edge, no
significant bending of the panel.
Several months ago a lister (I forgot who, sorry) offered several
RV-6 instrument panel pictures (from a fly in) for the price of
reprinting and postage. In one of those pictures there's a neat
little cup holder which looks like it would hold two cans of soda.
It appears to be made of plastic, and it retracts into the
instrument panel. Does anybody know where that cup holder, or a
similar one, can be purchased?
I've designed and prototyped an aluminum one, but I think the one
depicted in that picture would look better than the unit I'd make.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)op.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
<
>
>Kudos Bob,
>
>And this year the flight line is unrestricted. Now everyone, aviation
>related or not gets to damage your airplane. At one fly-in where the
>general public was permitted around the airplanes I stopped a woman
from
>standing her kid on a fabric horizontal. They just don't understand!
>
>Dan Morris
Dan,
The EAA will make an additional pure profit of at least $1,500,000 from
selling
everyone flight line tickets. The EAA is now out of
control. They are motivated
purely by profit. I didn't understand the criticisms of the EAA 10
years
ago, but I have been seeing those predictions come true.
I have attended 'Kosh for 10 years now. I have never flown in, but I love
the people and the atmosphere. There is nothing like it on earth, despite
all of the minor problems we have of getting around the grounds and
waiting in lines. But I think those of you who fly in and those of us who
come in via heavy iron should let the EAA know how we feel. I am going to
start E-mailing them my opinions. And in the first letter, I will
strongly suggest that they announce over the PA system a warning about
damaging displayed aircraft. This of course should be in addition to
large warning signs at each gate. I don't want you guys to keep me away
from your aircraft. I want to be as careful as you so I can see them
again year after year.
Louis Willig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders |
re: the cup holder. If you're describing what I saw at Oshkosh 96, you'=
re
right, it is a neat little widget to make flying more civilized. I asked=
the RV6 owner about it and confessed that it came out of a car in a
junkyard. Sorry but I don't remember what type but I think he said Toyot=
a.
Bob Fritz
RV6 Tail is done, saving pennies for the QB kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
I must have put too much variprime on all my parts including the K1000-6
nutplate because I have tried 8's twice and if I get the shop head to the
minimum diameter, then the shop head is too short or I'm a lousy
riveter. So I have some 9's on order from Vans.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
RV-6A
>
>Tom,
> I used 8's in this area also,which were supplied with my kit.they worked
>fine.
>
>chris marion
>RV-6 rudder
>cincy oh
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question about washers |
Ted McHenry writes-
> Most car race sanctioning bodies require washers like these for
> any rod ends that are mounted in single shear, for exactly that
> reason. Anyone know if there's a similar FAA requirement?
>
Ted,
There is not a specific FAA requirement, however it is general practice to
capture a spherical bearing either by the attachment or by adding a large
washer. They ocassionally do fail and the rod end comes off of the ball
without some retention.
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Wolcott <dww(at)open.org> |
| Subject: | RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
I'm confused!
I've finished all the prep work on both the left and right wing spars,
inserted the close tolarance bolts, put no. 10 machine screws into all the
wholes that don't get rivets, and now I'm ready to put in the big -6 rivets
and set them. Only I'm not sure of what length rivet to use in the various
wholes. I've searched drawings 12 and 13 (as well as all the rest), but it
is not listed.
Is this something we are suppose to figure out for ourselves? And if so,
why don't they tell us were suppose to figure it out.
And if we are suppose to figure it out, how close to the 1.5 diameter are we
suppose to be.
It seems to me the factory manual contradicts itself. In section 5 (page 2
of my manual) it states, "The rule of thumb is that the length of the rivet
shank should equal the thickness of the marterial being riveted, plus 1.5
times the rivet diameter...This formula works well for rivet lengths up to
about 1/2". For thicker material, such as the wing spar, a greater rivet
length allowance is required."
Ok, that makes sense, but in section 7 (page 9 of my manual) in the section
titled "Setting the Rivetes in the Spar, it states, "...the protruding rivet
head must be very close to the nominal 1.5d."
So which is it? "a greater rivet length" or "very close to the nominal
1.5d."???
Does it make anyone else wonder if the guy that wrote the factory manual
ever bothered to read it? I can honestly state that my greatest source of
frustration to date has had nothing to do with the actual construction of
the airplane, but rather the poor (in my opinion) way the factor manual is
written. But I digress.
To finish my story...I called the factory and asked. There reponse was,
"it's not to hard to figure out." I won't print my response to this, but to
suffice it to say I wasn't happy.
So, to all of you who have sucessfully completed and riveted your own spars,
what length rivet will be safe to use? Do I really need to cut down dozens
of rivets to get it close to the 1.5 diameter. Or is 1/32 close enough?
How about 1/16?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Dennis Wolcott
RV 6
Salem, OR
dww(at)open.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
>Take along some 3-5 ft metal rods and a lot of yellow tapeto wrap around
>your bird. It may keep some of the clowns away.
>Bruce
I have thought of this. However, with all of the activity around these
aircraft, I felt that metal rods sticking up would present a very real
hazard if someone were to fall on one. It just worried me too much. I
guess a guy could top each rod with a round knob, or something. But---when
flying in and camping, space and weight allowance are at a premium. Also,
many times, I've seen people just climb over the ropes.
Whenever I attended OSH or S&F, I would always catch the airplane owners
eye and ask permission to cross the ropes. This was several years ago when
I was building. I don't think people respect the ropes as they have in the
past.
"Tourists" at OSH/S&F aren't the only people we need to worry about. A
couple of years ago, someone at the RV fly-in at Boone, Iowa opened and
closed my tip-up canopy. When they closed it, it came down "cockeyed" and
the right canopy skirt jammed into the roll bar, chipping the paint and
bending the canopy skirt. I found the canopy in the jammed position. These
people should know better. What really got me is that the guy had to know
he screwed up and didn't have the guts to stick around to apologize and/or
offer to pay for the damage. I fixed the damage as best I could---did a
little bending and tried to touch up the Durethane but it doesn't look like
it should and it bugs me every time I see it.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William H. Watson" <watson1(at)alink.net> |
The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to apply.
Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant other
riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or meet
a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll take
any advice you have.
Thanks,
Bill Watson
RV-6A, emp
Wing delivery tomorrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "garrett v. smith" <blueskyman(at)msn.com> |
Hello Everyone:
I will be in Seattle and will have a free evening on the 16th and would REALLY
appreciate the opportunity to have a look at an RV project. I will be staying
at a hotel in SEATAC and if one of you kind folks has a few hours to spare to
allow me to drool over your pride and joy please respond off list.
Thanks in advance,
Garrett Smith
Calgary,Canada
(drywalling garage and dreaming of an -8)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Belated Thank You... |
Dear RV-Listers,
I would like to thank the following people for their contributions to
this years 'Support the RV-List' fund raiser. Their contributions arrived
after my first posting and I felt that they deserved every bit as much
gratitude as the others! :-)
Seriously, I want to thank everyone that contributed to this year's
fund raiser. I apperciate financial support for the RV-List a great deal
as it does require a substantial amount of money and time to keep running
smoothly.
Again, *THANK YOU* to everyone that sent in support this year!
Matt Dralle
RV-List Administrator
-- Late Breaking Contributors --
John Bright
Richard Reynolds
KH Kempthorne
Allan Pomeroy
Roy Volburg
Bill Benedict
Richard Caummisar
Paul Bilodeau
Blair Tyson
Ronald Vandervort
Dennis Persyk
Michael Brogley
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
Hello,
I'm looking for flight tests, reviews, etc. of the RV-6. I assume that
a few should have been done by now, by magazines such as Sport Aviation,
Kitplanes, etc.
I went to the library today to look them up in the Guide to Periodical
literature. What a joke!! Neither Kitplanes, nor Sport Aviation, nor
any other airplane magazine I could think of, was even indexed!!! (Except
Air & Space) What is usually a good source of info for me is useless in
this case. I can understand not indexing Sport Aviation since it is a
membership magazine, but what about the others?? :P
ANYWAY... :)
Can anyone help me out? I've heard that there might be a Sport Aviation
and maybe a Kitplanes index running around the Internet somewhere. I
searched the web and usenet for them, but no luck. Anyone know where I
could find these? Any other help or advice anyone can give me to help
me find articles about the RV-6 would be much appreciated!
Thanks in advance!!
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Cooper <bkcooper(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mars rover driver |
Wow, this has been the greatest week of my life! I could never have dreamed
that our mission to Mars would go so well. I have to say that I'm having an
absolute blast driving the rover on the surface. We have already
accomplished our mission success criteria and it's only been 5 days.
Tonight we are trying to put our Spectrometer on the difficult to approach
large rock named Yogi. The Scientists seem particularly facinated by the
textures they are seeing on this rock surface.
I'm really enjoying the warm words of encouragement from my fellow
rv-listers and from tons of total strangers from around the world. The
stress of safely leading the worlds most expensive car around from 120
million miles away is immense at times but at least I have the luxury of
escaping to my garage to pound a few theraputic rivits when I can. Thanks
for your interest and ofcourse thanks for the great RV dialogs that I
still try to make time for.
Brian K. Cooper
Rover Driver - RV6AQ - working on rear fuse skins.
>
>Hi Kelvin,
>
>This comming weeks People magazine will have two pages about Brian Cooper
>and the Mars Rover.
>
>Lynne (Mrs Cooper) wrote the following "and I rummaged through piles of
>photographs at home - so they might even include a picture of his
>in-progress airplane!" So maybe Brian's Quickbuild RV6 will get some
>national exposure this comming week.
>
>Cecil Hatfield
>
>
> writes:
>>
>>In today's Oregonian there is a picture of Brian Cooper in front of
>>his
>>computer terminal, complete with battery powered 3-D viewing glasses.
>>On
>>his bulletin board in the background is an aerial shot of, but what
>>else, an
>>RV6! kevin 6A - ON GEAR (and baffled!)
>>
>>
Brian K. Cooper
bkcooper(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
dcc.govt.nz!chris(at)matronics.com wrote:
> A local hardware chain is offering the Abel Cooke (brand) Maverick (model),
> 8.5 cfm displacement, 115 psi, 2 hp for NZ$449 (about $300 US). They also
> have compressors in the same range that cost up up to NZ$1500. Is the
> Maverick too small for my needs (rivetting and painting)? Does anyone know
> this brand? What questions do I need to ask, and what size reservoir
> should I be looking for?
I have a home-made compressor; 20L CNG tank, 1/2 horsepower electric
motor, 120psi, not sure cfm. This has proved adequate but not great for
everything I've done so far. I did need to modify my working practices a
little; I can't do a lot of drilling without running out of air, so I
drill holes until the pressure drops, then do something else for a while
(deburr, cleco, make coffee, whatever). A battery-powered drill might
eliminate this. Driving rivets isn't a problem; the compressor keeps up
OK. Painting I run out of air too, so I prepare a few parts, paint them,
and while they're drying and the compressor is catching up, I prepare
the next parts; kindof a production line. On a good day, the compressor
will be running virtually all day.
To be honest, this is enough of a pain that I wouldn't do it this way
again if I had enough money for a bigger compressor. I also spent a lot
of time getting the compressor going that I could have used
plane-building. In fact, I looked at the brochure you saw, and
considered that compressor. I'm just assessing my priorities to decide
whether to get a new compressor or spend elsewhere.
But the point is, you don't *need* a huge compressor.
You need some sort of effective regulator (mine is separate from the
compressor), preferably including a pressure guage showing the regulated
pressure. You'll want to regulate down to 30-40psi to drive 3/32 rivets,
up to 50 or 60 for 1/8 rivets, and maybe 90 psi for drilling.
For painting, you want some sort of water trap (mine's included in my
regulator)... compressing and releasing air changes the air's
temperature (Boyle's Law & all that 5th form chem) which can condense
moisture and leave spots in your paint.
Make sure the compressor has standard fittings, and good hoses. A few
short hoses is much more convenient than one long one. Make sure the
hose couplings don't leak; a waste of air pressure, and annoying.
If you think the cylinder capacity is too small, you could always plumb
a CNG cylinder (make sure you get a connector to the cydliner with it;
they're an odd-ball size) into your air-line to give you lots of
capacity.
Check how noisy the compressor is. If it disturbs the neighbours, you
may not be able to work much at night. Also think about where you're
going to put your compressor; I have mine out in the garage and work
inside the house. That's great, but requires a few extra feet of air
line. When I have needed to work in the garage, I've found the noise and
start/stop of the compressor distracting.
Unless you want to get into some serious house-wiring, you'll want a
single-phase motor. Check how many Amps 2hp is (I vaguely recall 1/2hp =
10A @ 240V), and make sure your wiring can handle that. Depending on the
motor, there may be an even higher current draw when it starts up.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: sheet metal brakes |
Randall'
I have plans to make a metal sheet metal brake. send $3 and a SASE to
George Orndorff
2290 W. Hicks Rd #18
Ft Worth, TX 76131
if you are interested......George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
> the Abel Cooke (brand) Maverick (model),
>8.5 cfm displacement, 115 psi, 2 hp for NZ$449 (about $300 US). They also
>have compressors in the same range that cost up up to NZ$1500. Is the
>Maverick too small for my needs (rivetting and painting)? Does anyone know
>this brand? What questions do I need to ask, and what size reservoir should
>I be looking for?
>Chris Hinch
I know nothing of the brand, but the hp and cfm and press. is as much
or more than what I used when building most of my RV6. Mine, and old one
used on the ranch, gave up the ghost near the end and I bought a larger one,
only because it was on sell as a special. It, the new one, does have a 25gal
tank, and I found that to be more of an advantage than more cfm or press.
You may not be able to run a sander, nor die grinder full time, but it will
help you build a plane. If money is of no consideration, then you may get
one with a little more cfm, but it isn't required. Patience is a good thing
to have plenty of when building your bird! And be careful of the advice you
get, including this one. It is a lot like asking should I marry a blond or
red head. Much personal choice goes into this!!!!
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>The EAA is supposed to be about airplanes and we're the ones taking our
> time and money supplying them and sometimes, I don't feel like we end
up
>on the good end of the deal. I have "uh ohs" that have happened to my
RV-6
>in two years of going to fly-ins. That's four more than I've put on the
>plane, so yes, I'm a little touchy. How do the rest of you with flying
>airplanes cope with the situation? Stay around the plane all of the
time?
>That's not really practical. Or, do you just figure the dings and dents
are
>part of the price of admission?
Well said Bob. I was at a local fly-in recently and left my airplane for
5 minutes to get something to eat. When I came back a family was
"looking" at my airplane. The father had his knee pressing into my flap
skin while looking into the cockpit (I keep the canopy locked and the
flaps down to discourage problems) and the mother was letting her 3 year
old cretin walk the length of the wing while she steadied the child to
keep it from falling.
Utilising restraint that would have made Soloman proud, I hearded the
Bonehead family away from my airplane and stayed next to it in a lawn
chair for the rest of the day.
This experience (as well as horror stories from others) has really made
me re-think going to major fly-ins. Perhaps fly-ins could require a
written "airplane etiquette" test to all non-fly-in potential visitors.
Only after scoring 100% and writing a suitable essay, would people be
allowed inside.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders |
Robert Fritz wrote:
>
>
> re: the cup holder. If you're describing what I saw at Oshkosh 96,
> you're
> right, it is a neat little widget to make flying more civilized. I
> asked
> the RV6 owner about it and confessed that it came out of a car in a
> junkyard. Sorry but I don't remember what type but I think he said
> Toyota.
>
> Bob Fritz
>
> RV6 Tail is done, saving pennies for the QB kit.
>
> +--
>
They are a neat little deal, my 96 Toyota pickup has a slider cup holder
that would work.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
>chance that these will become more affordable in the future? I am
>debating whether to get an IFR GPS or just go with a VOR based Nav/Com.
>The GPS costs more but the real tough pill to swallow is the ongoing
>expense of those updates -- $450-600/year -- yikes!
Having recently done lots of research on this, here's what I (hopefully
correctly) learned:
To shoot an overlay non-precision approach with a TSO-129C(A1) GPS you need
appropriate ground based navigation (i.e. VOR) on board also. For (A2), or
enroute only GPS, you will need ground based navigation for the
approaches...so the VOR is pretty much still a requirement (and
realistically glideslope/marker beacon also).
For A2 units, you are not required to keep the database updated, but do need
to verify every intended waypoint (filed plan and alternates) before
departure. Keep in mind that until the WAAS (IFR precision approach) TSO is
set, there remains a chance that your shiny new very expensive IFR gps will
need to be tossed or upgraded later.
I think I've decided (well, the checkbook had a lot to do with it ) until
the future of precision IFR GPS approaches is set in TSO and VOR's actually
start going away, I am putting all the "behind the panel" requirements for
IFR (i.e. vacuum pump lines, adequate electrical, etc.) in for an easier
upgrade later.
For now a VFR ship until I see just how much the weather holds me back in a
much faster than C172 airplane.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders |
At 12:23 AM 7/10/97 UT, you wrote:
>The cup holder I saw was in Mark Myers RV-6 and came out of a Toyota. Don't
>know what model.
My '92 Toyota pickup has this cupholder. Make sure to get one out of a
manual shift version (in my column mounted shift lever automatic version,
they ever so wisely made the left holder inoperative as not to cross the
shift lever's arc if extended in lower gears only).
Burns me every time I have two drinks on board .
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Scratches & Dents |
On the scratches & dents theme, it's my understanding that the EAA is
changing their attendance policies this year. You no longer have to
belong to any aviation-oriented organization to gain admittance to the
flightline.
Sounds like this opens the floodgates to all kinds of behavior by the
adoring-yet-aviation-ignorant masses. I realize that, in the past, all
anyone had to do was just fork over the EAA membership fee and he
suddenly became authorized and knowledgable, so maybe the point is
moot. So, maybe the idea of roping off your planes isn't so tacky and
wacky after all.
--Don McNamara
-8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mumert" <sdm(at)SoftOptions.com> |
Hi Chris;
I bought my compressor before my paint sprayer, in
hindsight I soon realized that I should have bought the
sprayer first then found a suitable compressor.
Do yourself a favor and DO NOT buy an oil-less type unit.
I found a local professional compressor company was far
more helpful and no more expensive then the hardware store
and home center.
I purchased a Binks sprayer from a local distributor who
also custom mixes paint. He showed me a number of sprayers
and let me try out some in his paint booth.
Good Luck
Dave Mumert
SDM(at)softoptions.com
RV6-A 24859
----------
> From: Chris Hinch <dcc.govt.nz!chris(at)matronics.com>
> To: 'smtp:rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: Compressors
> Date: Thursday, July 10, 1997 4:27 AM
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a compressor for my
garage-soon-to-be-home for an RV8 kit -
+--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Walsh <jwalsh(at)ftp.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
>>Reply to your message of 7/10/97 10:40 AM
>>
>>I must have put too much variprime on all my parts including the K1000-6
>>nutplate because I have tried 8's twice and if I get the shop head to
th=
e
>>minimum diameter, then the shop head is too short or I'm a lousy
>>riveter. So I have some 9's on order from Vans.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Tom Velvick
>>rver(at)caljet.com
>>RV-6A
=09
This is all part of the great rivet length debate. In general, I suggest =
using the gold rivet length tool from Avery BEFORE installing the first riv=
et in a new assembly. Insert the rivet and determine if you have enough l=
ength. If so, rivet it. If not, get a longer one. I seem to recall t=
he same thing happened in my rudder. I riveted a -8 or -9 and when I got a=
minimum mushroom size, the head was already too thin.
Very annoying to drill out a long rivet like that. I think I ended up with=
-10's. =20
John=20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Rivets Not In The Kit |
The following just showed up on the list.
>I must have put too much variprime on all my parts including the K1000-6
>nutplate because I have tried 8's twice and if I get the shop head to the
>minimum diameter, then the shop head is too short or I'm a lousy
>riveter. So I have some 9's on order from Vans.
>
For anyone early into the construction on an RV, there are certain rivets
that do not come with the kit that I wish I had early on.
A) The "cheater" rivet kit from Avery. They are the reduced head rivets.
You will occasionally have to drill out an elongated 3/32" hole to 1/8".
The reduced head 1/4" shank rivets work perfectly in these areas. The
reduced head 3/32" are great for installing platenuts in thin material.
B) From ASS, get at least 1/8# each AN426AD3-4.5 and AN426AD3-5.5. These
rivets are countersunk 3/32 whose length is between those supplied with the
kit. There are MANY places where these will come in handy.
C) The longest 3/32" and 1/8" diameter c'sunk and universal head rivets
available. There are a few locations where the rivets Van's supplies are
just a little too short. By having the longest available, they can be cut
down to the proper size.
The above assortment should only cost around $20 and will save a bunch of
time by not having to stop and put an assembly away because you needed that
1 rivet to finish.
That's my $.02.
Scott Gesele N506RV (almost done painting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC8D2A.6EE25200
----------
> From: Dennis Wolcott <open.org!dww(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length
> So which is it? "a greater rivet length" or "very close to the nominal
> 1.5d."???
>
> Does it make anyone else wonder if the guy that wrote the factory manual
> ever bothered to read it? I can honestly state that my greatest source
of
> frustration to date has had nothing to do with the actual construction of
> the airplane, but rather the poor (in my opinion) way the factor manual
is
> written.
>
> So, to all of you who have sucessfully completed and riveted your own
spars,
> what length rivet will be safe to use? Do I really need to cut down
dozens
> of rivets to get it close to the 1.5 diameter. Or is 1/32 close enough?
> How about 1/16?
Dennis - I sympathize with your dilemma. The manuals are written by
individuals that have a lot of building experience. As a result, they have
some difficulty relating to the first time builder's questions. Expect to
have problems like this as you progress. You will gain confidence however,
and will be able to "just figure it out". Having completed my RV-6 through
the fuselage, I some time ago quit looking at the rivet lengths specified.
I just eye-ball them and QC the set rivets to make sure they meet the 1.5X
width, 1X depth rule.
To answer your question, start with rivets with at least 1.5 diameter. A
little longer is OK. What actually determines the max length is your
ability to set them without bending or misshaping the set rivet.
Experiment. The worst that can happen is that you will have to drill one
out and try again. It's not that critical that 1/32 in. will make any
difference.
To put it in perspective: an aerobatic citabria wing is held on with three
bolts.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC8D2A.6EE25200
open.org!dww(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet =
Length
> So which is it? "a greater rivet =
length" or "very close to the nominal
> =
1.5d."???
>
> Does it make anyone else wonder if the =
guy that wrote the factory manual
> ever bothered to read it? =
I can honestly state that my greatest source of
> =
frustration to date has had nothing to do with the actual construction =
of
> the airplane, but rather the poor (in my opinion) way the =
factor manual is
> written.
>
> So, to =
all of you who have sucessfully completed and riveted your own =
spars,
> what length rivet will be safe to use? Do I really =
need to cut down dozens
> of rivets to get it close to the 1.5 =
diameter. Or is 1/32 close enough?
> How about 1/16? =
Dennis - I sympathize with your dilemma. The manuals are =
written by individuals that have a lot of building experience. As =
a result, they have some difficulty relating to the first time builder's =
questions. Expect to have problems like this as you progress. =
You will gain confidence however, and will be able to "just =
figure it out". Having completed my RV-6 through the =
fuselage, I some time ago quit looking at the rivet lengths specified. I =
just eye-ball them and QC the set rivets to make sure they meet the 1.5X =
width, 1X depth rule.
To answer your question, start with rivets =
with at least 1.5 diameter. A little longer is OK. What =
actually determines the max length is your ability to set them without =
bending or misshaping the set rivet. Experiment. The worst =
that can happen is that you will have to drill one out and try again. =
It's not that critical that 1/32 in. will make any difference. =
To put it in perspective: an aerobatic citabria wing is =
held on with three bolts.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC8D2A.6EE25200--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Hi Chris,
> I'm looking for a compressor for my garage-soon-to-be-home for an RV8 kit -
Some of the things I learned about air compressors:
The piston type are quieter and more expensive. And used they sell for more.
At least here in California Bay Area, a 5hp 20 gallon (11.0 cfm) is only 30 to
50% more than a little one. Like minimal unit is $225 and large one is $325.
People with painting experience say 5hp 20gal is minimum for painting. 1.5 hp
is adequate for riveting. Drills take a lot of air. However, Jim Boyd, paint
manufacturer representative says that even 1.5 hp can paint a small plane.
Painting the whole aircraft in one continuous session is really not necessary.
Painting for us occasional users is best done with HVLP.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Gall's/Wheelen Power supply for strobes |
I received a techncal data sheet from Gall's on their standard strobe
power supply and thought I would share the basic specs.
First: This unit is made by Wheelen and is their model SPS-660C.
Up to six strobes can be powered by this single unit.
Specs:
Voltage - Input 10v - 30vDC
Current(12v) 6 AMPS
Current(26.5v) 3 AMPS
Flash Rate 140 F/M typical
Flash Patterns Single (Comet)
(selectable) Rapid Double
Joules - High 11/5/5/5 typical
Joules - Low 4/4/4/4 typical
Output Power 60 WATTS
Dimensions Could not read on fax.
Weight Not stated, but shipped as less
than 2lbs.
Cost New $99.00 - 5 year warranty
Refurb $75.00 - 90 day warranty
Could be a good alternative to the Wheelen FAA approved
models.
--
Rick Osgood
Hennipen Technical College
Eden Prairie, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
William H. Watson wrote:
>
>
> The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to apply.
> Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
> horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
> few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
>
> Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant other
> riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
> advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or meet
> a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll take
> any advice you have.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Watson
> RV-6A, emp
> Wing delivery tomorrow
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
Bill,
I'm completing my second wing and so far the only part that I have
rivited alone has been the tank skins. I could have done the leading edge
skins as well , but I did have a helper available. While I prefer to work
alone for concentration purposes, most of the rivits are difficult to
buck because you just can't get to both sides of the skin to stay square
on the rivit with the bucking bar and/or rivit gun. Also, if you are not
using a swivel rivit set, any tilt of the rivit set will result in a
"smiley". I find that my friends pick up bucking easily and they're
usually anxious to help. A fellow builder is a good resource if you can
pull him away from his project. Mitch Faatz and I help each other ( he's
building a -6A quickbuild) and enjoy the camaraderie and it usually only
takes a few hours.
Ed Cole RV6A 2nd wing, fuse in a large pile waiting for assembly!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
Bill--
Made the same boo-boo. I tried to buck the first skin by myself. I got
one rivet in, with only two dings. So, I enlisted my son's help (he was
11 at the time.) I kept my cool very well, I think, as the situation
got worse.
Finally, I gave up and ordered a new skin. Thankfully, all the holes
lined up (thanks to the accuracy of pre-punching!), and I didn't have to
make the whole skeleton all over again. I then waited until a friend
(who's building a -6A) came over to help, and it all went like
clockwork.
The moral of the story: Scream for help! The only time I've been able
to get reliably good results by myself on skins is when I practice on
scrap!
--Don McNamara
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
I'm looking at all the avionics catalogs and putting together a wish
list, but I need help on this "Stereo" thing.
I'd like to include a CD player in the cockpit for longe cross country
trips, but don't know quite how the integration of the mono nav/coms
and headsets is accomplished with the stereo from the CD. Am I going to
have to buy all new headsets, audio panel, and intercom???.
Also, what is the best method to switch between com and cd without an
audio panel?
Thanks,
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
Get one of the rivet sets that swivel a bit. After I got one of those dings
were few and far between. I riveted my -4 by myself with very few
exceptions. It is OK from a rivet perspective - the paint job, alas, is no
work of art...
>
>The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to apply.
>Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
>horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
>few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
>
>Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant other
>riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
>advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or meet
>a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll take
>any advice you have.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill Watson
>RV-6A, emp
>Wing delivery tomorrow
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
Richard E. Bibb Direct: 301-571-2507
Vice President, Federal Operations Main: 301-564-4404
Fore Systems Federal, Inc. FAX: 301-564-4408
6905 Rockledge Drive, #800 Pager: 800-719-1246
Bethesda, MD 20817 www.fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz> |
| Subject: | Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
I don't know if this would help at all, but how about a "you break it , you
buy it" sign in the cockpit - even as just a deterrent? Sometimes it seems
that the only thing people will respect is their own liability.
Whatever happened to the "hands in pockets" rule?
A sad state of affairs indeed.
Chris Hinch
Dunedin, New Zealand
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
----------
> "Tourists" at OSH/S&F aren't the only people we need to worry about. A
> couple of years ago, someone at the RV fly-in at Boone, Iowa opened and
> closed my tip-up canopy. When they closed it, it came down "cockeyed" and
> the right canopy skirt jammed into the roll bar, chipping the paint and
> bending the canopy skirt. I found the canopy in the jammed position.
These
> people should know better. What really got me is that the guy had to know
> he screwed up and didn't have the guts to stick around to apologize and/or
> offer to pay for the damage. I fixed the damage as best I could---did a
> little bending and tried to touch up the Durethane but it doesn't look
like
> it should and it bugs me every time I see it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz> |
| Subject: | mars rover driver |
ABC's segment on Brian Cooper and Sojourner (sp?) made it as far as New
Zealand, repeated several times across a number of channels and news
bulletins - great to see the RV calendar on the wall beside him! Brian was
described by the announcer as the guy with the best toy in the whole
universe - I didn't know they knew about his RV! *grin*
Chris
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
----------
> This comming weeks People magazine will have two pages about Brian Cooper
> and the Mars Rover.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John C. Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
Dennis,
Recommend staying as close to 1.5d as possible. I used the
hydraulic press method to squeeze these big rivets and they were prone to
distorting to one side if not of the proper length.
Fitting the proper rivet length really isn't very difficult.
Best regards,
John Devlin, RV6A, working on tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders |
Take a look at a 1990 Toyota 4-Runner. Mine has a retractable 2-cup holder
about 1" by 6", that looks like it could be removed and adapted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
Dennis,
It has been quite a while (8 years) since I riveted up my spars, but I know
the longer rivets had to be cut to keep them from bending over when driving
them. I believe about 1/16" over 1.5D was about right. The shorter ones
were okay.
The first one you drive that starts bending over will give you a real quick
clue that they're too long. And if you don't get quite the right size shop
head, you will know that they're too short. When one of the factory guys said
"it's not hard to figure out" that is probably what he meant, because he had
done something similar, but I think he should have given you a better answer.
It takes a lot of nerve to drill out that first spar rivet, but I had to do a
couple. Wish I'd had the list to ask for advise back then!
Best regards,
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/canopy (1st -6A sold 10/95)
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dennis Wolcott
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 1997 8:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length
I'm confused!
I've finished all the prep work on both the left and right wing spars,
inserted the close tolarance bolts, put no. 10 machine screws into all the
wholes that don't get rivets, and now I'm ready to put in the big -6 rivets
and set them. Only I'm not sure of what length rivet to use in the various
wholes. I've searched drawings 12 and 13 (as well as all the rest), but it
is not listed.
Is this something we are suppose to figure out for ourselves? And if so,
why don't they tell us were suppose to figure it out.
And if we are suppose to figure it out, how close to the 1.5 diameter are we
suppose to be.
It seems to me the factory manual contradicts itself. In section 5 (page 2
of my manual) it states, "The rule of thumb is that the length of the rivet
shank should equal the thickness of the marterial being riveted, plus 1.5
times the rivet diameter...This formula works well for rivet lengths up to
about 1/2". For thicker material, such as the wing spar, a greater rivet
length allowance is required."
Ok, that makes sense, but in section 7 (page 9 of my manual) in the section
titled "Setting the Rivetes in the Spar, it states, "...the protruding rivet
head must be very close to the nominal 1.5d."
So which is it? "a greater rivet length" or "very close to the nominal
1.5d."???
Does it make anyone else wonder if the guy that wrote the factory manual
ever bothered to read it? I can honestly state that my greatest source of
frustration to date has had nothing to do with the actual construction of
the airplane, but rather the poor (in my opinion) way the factor manual is
written. But I digress.
To finish my story...I called the factory and asked. There reponse was,
"it's not to hard to figure out." I won't print my response to this, but to
suffice it to say I wasn't happy.
So, to all of you who have sucessfully completed and riveted your own spars,
what length rivet will be safe to use? Do I really need to cut down dozens
of rivets to get it close to the 1.5 diameter. Or is 1/32 close enough?
How about 1/16?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Dennis Wolcott
RV 6
Salem, OR
dww(at)open.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
>titled "Setting the Rivetes in the Spar, it states, "...the protruding
rivet
>head must be very close to the nominal 1.5d."
>So which is it? "a greater rivet length" or "very close to the nominal
>1.5d."???
>
>Does it make anyone else wonder if the guy that wrote the factory
>manual ever bothered to read it? I can honestly state that my greatest
>source of frustration to date has had nothing to do with the actual
construction
>of the airplane, but rather the poor (in my opinion) way the factory
manual is
>written.
Dennis,
I agree that the manual could be much more explicit in places.
Particularly as you progress through the kit, the manual assumes
increasing knowledge and experience on the part of the builder, and
leaves out much detail that I would like to see. However, it is easy to
get wrapped around the axle on comparatively simple points.
>So, to all of you who have sucessfully completed and riveted your own
>spars, what length rivet will be safe to use? Do I really need to cut
down
>dozens of rivets to get it close to the 1.5 diameter. Or is 1/32 close
>enough? How about 1/16?
As I recall, I chose rivets to meet the 1.5D criterion. I just used
Avery's rivet length gauge. These lengths worked out perfectly to make
the required shop head size, even on the long wing spar rivets. I did
have to cut quite a few rivets down to meet that size. I don't know of
any published tolerances for cutting rivets, but I would guess that it is
better to err to the slightly long side. However, it is not at all hard
to cut rivets consistently to the right length. Just buy Avery's rivet
cutter, set the stops once for each cut length, and cut away! Remember
to dress the cut ends before driving the rivets.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 mounting gear leg fairings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
>
> I must have put too much variprime on all my parts including the K1000-6
> nutplate because I have tried 8's twice and if I get the shop head to the
> minimum diameter, then the shop head is too short or I'm a lousy
> riveter. So I have some 9's on order from Vans.
Don't get too hung up on the 1.5D, .5H size of shop heads. I believe the
specs say over 1/3H and over 1 1/3D. Drilling out a rivet that is a
little small will, unless you're a very good rivet remover, likely cause
more damage than you fix.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
>
> Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
> horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
> few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
There are some areas which are mighty difficult with two people, let
alone trying it by yourself. I wouldn't recommend that at all.
> Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant other
> riveter)?
No.
> Are there some areas where it is just not possible or advisable?
I'd say most of the bottom skin. I didn't like to try the top skin
myself, however.
> I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or meet
> a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't.
Your local EAA chapter?
If your bucker is inexperienced, remember to practice together on some
scrap first.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
--------------B2D4A11AB7805760A8D5DB60
Chris Hinch wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a compressor for my garage-soon-to-be-home for an RV8
> kit -
> I've read the specs mentioned in the FAQ, but as that this is a
> reasonably
> important part of the tools that I am about to buy, I wanted to make
> sure I
> get it right, and would appreciate any assistance from the list.
>
> A local hardware chain is offering the Abel Cooke (brand) Maverick
> (model),
> 8.5 cfm displacement, 115 psi, 2 hp for NZ$449 (about $300 US). They
> also
> have compressors in the same range that cost up up to NZ$1500. Is the
>
> Maverick too small for my needs (rivetting and painting)? Does anyone
> know
> this brand? What questions do I need to ask, and what size reservoir
> should
> I be looking for?
>
> Many thanks in advance!
>
> Chris Hinch
> chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
> RV-8 builder-to-be
>
Chris,
I've seen comments discussing the virtues of the smallest capacity
compressor one can get by with. But having recently made the move to a
6 hp, 220v, 60 gallon unit (from a 3 hp, 110 hp, 20 gallon), I must say,
IMHO, that the benefits of the larger system are rather significant.
1) The new unit does not cycle nearly as often, and when it does,
it runs for shorter periods of time. It is no louder than the small
unit when it is running.
2) The larger unit actually takes up less floor space (vertical vs.
horizontal tank)
3) The extra capacity allows the running of more than one hose to
different areas of the shop. Gone are the days of 'time-sharing' the
single hose.
4) Most importantly - TIM ALLEN would approve :)
The new unit is a Dayton by name, but looks remarkable similar to a
Campbell-Hausfeld. It was cheaper than the smaller compressor when I
bought it 10+ years ago. While the old compressor certainly gave me my
moneys-worth, I'm glad I went "bigger" this time around.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
"Either Raise Your Skill Level... or Lower Your Standards"
--------------B2D4A11AB7805760A8D5DB60
Chris Hinch wrote:
I'm looking for a compressor for my garage-soon-to-be-home for an RV8
kit -
I've read the specs mentioned in the FAQ, but as that this is a reasonably
important part of the tools that I am about to buy, I wanted to make
sure I
get it right, and would appreciate any assistance from the list.
A local hardware chain is offering the Abel Cooke (brand) Maverick (model),
8.5 cfm displacement, 115 psi, 2 hp for NZ$449 (about $300 US). They
also
have compressors in the same range that cost up up to NZ$1500.
Is the
Maverick too small for my needs (rivetting and painting)? Does anyone
know
this brand? What questions do I need to ask, and what size reservoir
should
I be looking for?
Many thanks in advance!
Chris Hinch
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
RV-8 builder-to-be
Chris,
I've seen comments discussing the virtues of the smallest capacity
compressor one can get by with. But having recently made the move
to a 6 hp, 220v, 60 gallon unit (from a 3 hp, 110 hp, 20 gallon), I must
say, IMHO, that the benefits of the larger system are rather significant.
1) The new unit does not cycle nearly
as often, and when it does, it runs for shorter periods of time.
It is no louder than the small unit when it is running.
2) The larger unit actually takes up less
floor space (vertical vs. horizontal tank)
3) The extra capacity allows the running of
more than one hose to different areas of the shop. Gone are the days
of 'time-sharing' the single hose.
4) Most importantly - TIM ALLEN would approve
:)
The new unit is a Dayton by name, but looks remarkable similar to a
Campbell-Hausfeld. It was cheaper than the smaller compressor when
I bought it 10+ years ago. While the old compressor certainly gave
me my moneys-worth, I'm glad I went "bigger" this time around.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA
Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
"Either Raise Your Skill Level... or Lower Your Standards"
--------------B2D4A11AB7805760A8D5DB60--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Are there any RVs in Charleston, SC? |
I'll be there next week and if I can get away from meetings would sure like to
see one.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
> I've finished all the prep work on both the left and right wing spars,
> inserted the close tolarance bolts, put no. 10 machine screws into all the
> wholes that don't get rivets, and now I'm ready to put in the big -6 rivets
> and set them. Only I'm not sure of what length rivet to use in the various
> wholes. I've searched drawings 12 and 13 (as well as all the rest), but it
> is not listed.
>
> Is this something we are suppose to figure out for ourselves? And if so,
> why don't they tell us were suppose to figure it out.
Yup. Mostly it's obvious though... the long rivets go in the holes
nearest the root end, the short ones go to the tip end, the others go
between.
> And if we are suppose to figure it out, how close to the 1.5 diameter are
> we suppose to be.
Some rivets will need to be cut, mostly a bunch of the mid-size ones, I
think. There's also some odd lengths where the rivet goes through a
stiffener angle. Don't forget to rivet on that last stiffener angle too.
> So which is it? "a greater rivet length" or "very close to the nominal
> 1.5d."???
The Section 7 quote is referring to the problem of bending the rivet
while setting. If you are *way* to long, it will be difficult to set the
rivet correctly -- it'll bend every time. Being a little over is OK.
DO NOT CUT THE LONG (6-25) RIVETS, even though they appear to be a bit
long according to 1.5D measurement. Apart from these I went with the
1.5D, and that worked out OK. However, on my second spar, I'll leave
them slightly longer.
> I can honestly state that my greatest source of
> frustration to date has had nothing to do with the actual construction of
> the airplane, but rather the poor (in my opinion) way the factor manual is
> written.
Yes -- a manual written by an experienced builder for other experienced
builders. Make sure you get Frank Justice's notes -- they're much better
than the manual. I'll also shamelessly plug my Bunny's Guide to RV
Building page <http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny.htm> which (IMHO)
enhances the FJ notes. Contributions are always welcome.
> Do I really need to cut down dozens
> of rivets to get it close to the 1.5 diameter.
You will need to cut down many rivets (a couple of dozen, maybe more).
> Or is 1/32 close enough?
1/32 is close enough.
> How about 1/16?
Depends how good you are at driving rivets. If you reckon you can drive
them straight, then that's fine.
Incidentally, you do NOT want to be removing any of these rivets.
Believe me!
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
William H. Watson wrote:
>
> Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant other
> riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
> advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or meet
> a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll take
> any advice you have.
I would not attempt the wing skins, fuselage skins, or horizontal and
vertical stab skins alone. I have so far managed to do all the control
surfaces and the wing leading edges solo, as well as all structure. You
just can't reach around the skins well enough to hold both the gun and
bar steady.
As for sources for buckers: it is an easily taught skill which almost
anyone can handle. I recently had a co-worker show up to see my project
who proceeded to buck while I riveted the top wing skins on. He was
more attentive to detail than I was, checking every single rivet with
the gauge (I tend to eyeball and spot-check or check questionable
ones). The only drawback to him instead of Judi is that I had to wait
until his schedule matched mine. Well, I have to do that with Judi,
too, but it seems easier with her. Anyone who has worked on my project
with me has been very careful, I guess because they'd hate to mess up
such an obvious work of art :) (or are they humoring the madman?)
Almost everyone who has viewed it has expressed an interest in getting
involved. I'd say the choices would be wide, if you can work around a
prospect's availability.
PatK - RV-6A - Left wing: top skin and guts done; bottom skin next.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic sqeezer |
Can anyone tell me how the alligator type sqeezers
work. I have possession of the other type. I was thinking
of ordering one from a outfit and was told they are not real good because
they bend over the rivets. I have the
straight kind and love them.
Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Enough!
Does anyone think that the a-holes who cause these problems read this list?
If not what is the point of this discussion? I have been going to
airshows and flyins for years in everything from a C-150 to a B-25. I have
met literally 10's of thousands of people and most are fine folks. However
just like in my home town you find a few a-holes. So be it.
While I agree that it is unfortunate that these folks exsists, it is also
sad that I must lock my truck at lunch, etc.. If anyone has a solution to
this problem I am listening but if all we want to do is tell ever
increasing amplitude horror stories about flyin's, I have heard enough.
Lets return to talking about building and flying RV's. IMHO
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal RV-4 N240
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
>Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant other
>riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
>advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or meet
>a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll take
>any advice you have.
>Bill Watson
Bill,
On my first horizontal stabilizer, I had help on the top side and finished
the bottom by myself. The bottom turned out better than the top. On my
second H.S. (for the second airplane, by the way) I did both sides by myself
and was happier with the job.
I used a bar similar to the TP-638 in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. (I
could tell you the Avery number if I'd quit giving away catalogs to shop
visitors.) I generally mark the center of the contact area on the bar with
a Sharpie. Then you can easily tell that the center of the bar is centered
on the hole. This helps assure that you have plenty of working room on the
bar surface, i.e. your bar won't slip off the rivet as you're driving it. I
generally place a rivet in the hole (after locating the bar in the correct
position), place the rivet set on the rivet and then push the rivet out with
the bucking bar. This helps to make sure that the bar is parallel to the
rib/skin. I then push the rivet back flush with the set and concentrate on
the "feel" of the bar so I can try to maintain the parallel relationship.
If you're having troulble with dings, you might want to try the flush,
swivel set that Avery sells. And---practice a little more on scrap before
you attack the real thing.
I find that I get along better riveting by myself. Your two hands,
working through your brain, will get along fine. (Unless you've built too
many fiberglass planes. Then there may be trouble with the "connection".)
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | for sale signs at OSH |
Rvers,
Here is a message that I recently received concerning aircraft sales.
Bob
>From: Dick Knapinski <dknapinski(at)eaa.org>
>To: "'BSkinner(at)navix.net'"
>Subject: for sale signs at OSH
>Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 15:37:25 -0500
>
>Bob:
>
>Caught your posting on the RV newsgroup. You wrote:
> My understanding is that you can not advertise your airplane for sale.
>> I've never seen this addressed in Sport Aviation or in any of the
>handouts
>> at the fly-ins. Maybe you can have a small sign inside, I don't know.
>> Maybe EAA wants people to pay for "vendor rights" before you can sell
>> anything. Maybe they can't stand the thought of commerce going on unless
>> they get a cut. "For sale" signs on the prop look a little tacky but
>small
>> signs in the cockpit sure don't bother me.
>> If I go to OSH, I might put a for sale sign on my plane just to see
>what
>> happens.
>
>Please allow me to give you the official word straight from Ben Owen at
>Homebuilders' Headquarters:
>At OSHKOSH, you're more than welcome to put a for sale sign in your
>windshield, on the prop, taped to the fuselage, even pounded into the
>ground next to the aircraft if you're selling your airplane privately
>(key word there, as opposed to acting as a broker or agent). I'm not
>sure if that differs from Sun 'n Fun, since it establishes its own rules
>for its event.
>We do ask that any seller shows some restraint in their efforts. No
>3-by-3 foot signs, multiple postings, neon lights, bikini babes handing
>out flyers or the like. The situations where we've run into problems
>usually come from a used airplane dealer wheeling something in, then
>placing signs everywhere in a marketing blitz. You'd be surprised at
>how those folks get offended, claiming to be just a little ol' ordinary
>guy, although we know and they know what they're doing. That's when we
>have to apply the one-size-fits-all common sense that we have on hand.
>
>If you have any questions about that during the event, just ask Ben at
>Homebuilders' Headquarters. Also, feel free to post that response on
>any newsgroups if you wish. I realize there are always gray areas, but
>usually by checking beforehand, a lot of hassles can be avoided.
>
>As far as people pawing at the airplanes, I wish folks were a little
>more considerate at times, too, although 99% of everybody are superbly
>well-behaved. My own experience has shown that it's not so much general
>public but other pilots and friends who present the most potential for
>hassle. You know, comparing elevator hookups, strut wiring, things like
>that. Go figure.
>
>Anyway, Bob, if you have any other questions, feel free to contact me
>here at EAA. Hope to see you on the flight line in a couple weeks!
>
>Best,
>Dick Knapinski
>EAA OSH
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
>and set them. Only I'm not sure of what length rivet to use in the various
>wholes. I've searched drawings 12 and 13 (as well as all the rest), but it
>is not listed.
>
>Is this something we are suppose to figure out for ourselves? And if so,
>why don't they tell us were suppose to figure it out.
>
>And if we are suppose to figure it out, how close to the 1.5 diameter are we
>suppose to be.
>Dennis Wolcott
Dennis,
Avery makes some neat little gauges to help you determine which lengths
are correct. General rule of thumb: The undriven rivet should extend 1.5
d's past the surface. The driven rivets should have a height of 1/2 d and a
diameter of 1 1/2 d. Be careful not to use rivets that are too long as they
have a tendency to tip, especially on the #6 rivets. You don't want to be
drilling these spar rivets out.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Tom Glover" <tglovebox(at)bc.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Scratches & Dents |
Don McNamara wrote:
>
>
> On the scratches & dents theme, it's my understanding that the EAA is
> changing their attendance policies this year. You no longer have to
> belong to any aviation-oriented organization to gain admittance to the
> flightline.
>
> etc......
Maybe it's time to explore the possibility of putting all the RV's
out in a designated section away from the flight line, like they
did with all the Bonanzas two years ago. It was fairly close to the
showers and johns, and the pub was just outside the west end of the
airport. You can also camp with your plane. That's where
I'll be with my RV, if I ever get it to OSH. It's a good walk to the
flight line, however.
73
Tom Glover
tglovebox(at)bc.sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert.R.F.Ziegler(at)scbvpno.simis.com |
Delivery-Date: 11 Jul 1997 07:51:39 +0100
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
Importance: normal
| Subject: | Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Autoforwarded: FALSE
Conversion-With-Loss: Allowed
This is indeed a strange thing to sell flightline tickets to the general public.
I hope the FBI is there, as "damaging aircraft is a federal offense". But no
joking, at least on Sun&Fun, every EAA meber could buy a flight line ticket.
That way, EAA gets members, and only genuinely interested people (pilots or
not) will shell out this extra money. Perhaps EAA should be reminded to stick
to this policy.
Robert (flying STOL CH-701 and starting to build a RV-6A quick build after the
summer)
Internet: Robert.R.F.Ziegler(at)scbvpno.simis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWeek91970(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Questions - South Africa |
Hi!
My Name is Robert Weekley. I am a young Entrepreneur, venturing into the new
business trend
of Electronic Commerce and Distribution Technology.
I would like assistance in the form of leads, or contacts, with a spere of
Influence in the market of
South Africa, who would be interested in learning about and discussing the
options of making
Distribution Technology work for them.
Our Business launches there officially on August 19, 1997! I am expecting to
meet with other
Team Players in British Columbia on the weekend of July 25-27. I hope to have
any
communication by that point at least identifying a selection of not more than
10 Key players, who
I will have briefed, and will provide an option for them to meet with myself,
and a select group of
our team from British Columbia, Alberta, and possibly, Hawaii - prior to them
committing to any
Long term involvement.
Related overview information will be handled initially over the net, expanded
to Fax and
Telephone, and contact with other team players as the confidence envelope is
expanded. I see
an opportunity in South Africa for a sizable Business Growth, and desire open
minded, sharp,
positive speaking individuals who can take direction from an experienced
leadership team, with
an eye to becoming a leader on their own, for which they will be rewarded
appropriately, through
Bonuses, Recognition, and Team Support, not to mention a sizable Cash Flow.
Serious inquires requiring more specific business overview information may
contact me: Mr.
Robert Weekley by E-mail at RWeek91970(at)aol.com
Thank you for your interest and support. You may feel free to pass this note
on to all you feel my
suit. Please include your name if you wish to be recognised for your support.
I can't promise at this point that all will be accepted, as each case is
specific, and must be
determined individually.
Thank you.
RWeek91970(at)aol.com
Toronto, Ontario CANADA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:rear seat brace: RV-4 |
Mike ,
This AD came out in the Rvator. If yu did a copy let me know ......George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
<< So, to all of you who have sucessfully completed and riveted your own
spars,
what length rivet will be safe to use? Do I really need to cut down dozens
of rivets to get it close to the 1.5 diameter. Or is 1/32 close enough?
How about 1/16?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Dennis Wolcott
RV 6
Salem, OR
dww(at)open.org
>>
Dennis:
Rule of thumb:
1.5 to 2 dia protrusion of the rivet tail will get you what you want.
Anything longer will "Ben Dover", and anything shorter just won't look right.
More than a few will need cutting. Use the proper guideline for the bucked
dia of the tail, BTW.
Sorry about the bad factory directions........by the time you get to your
second or third airframe, you won't even notice 'em!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Chris,
That 2 hp compressor is not to small just to much money. Check Sears or kmart
compressors are cheeper there.....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gall's/Wheelen Power supply for strobes |
<33C53781.3F6A(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us>
What or where is Galls? I am interested if this power supply will work
for me.
John Henley RV6 (grihen(at)juno.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
> what length rivet will be safe to use? Do I really need to cut down dozens
> of rivets to get it close to the 1.5 diameter. Or is 1/32 close enough?
> How about 1/16?
>
> Thanks in advance for your input.
>
> Dennis Wolcott
> RV 6
> Salem, OR
> dww(at)open.org
>
>
Avery Tools sells a small gauge to size these rivets. I used
this method when I riveted my spars. And, Yes I cut down every rivet
that was too long. You should do this to keep the rivet from laying over
when it is set.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <"Fran Malczynski"@ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
Dennis Wolcott wrote:
>
>
> I'm confused!
>
I ended up using the nominal length of 1.5 d. After practicing on some
scrap with rivets lengths that were longer than 1.5 d, I found that I
could not consistently set a good shop head with out bending or
clinching. When I cut my rivets back to 1.5 d the results were
consistent. Cutting the rivets back is extra work but far better then
the agravation of trying to drill out deformed rivets.
I used the Avery hand dimpling and riveting tool and a 4 lb hammer.
Three strikes was usually sufficient to set a good head.
Hope this helps.
Fran Malczynski
RV6(A) Wings
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com (Bruce D Stobbe) |
>The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to apply.
>Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
>horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
snip
> Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
>advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or
>meet
>a slim armed, but steady bucking person
You will soon find out that there are many areas which cannot be riveted
by a single person working alone - wing skins for one example. As far as
looking for someone with a steady bucking hand, you may want to consider
the opposite - looking for someone to operate the rivet gun. IMO,
control of the bucking bar - especially in difficult-to-reach areas - is
at least as important in achieving good results as is control of the
rivet gun. BTW, my wife has never been able to get the hang of the
bucking thing. Because of this, I've had to assign bucking bar duty to
myself on many occasions while my wife got the glory of operating the
rivet gun, which she handles marvelously.
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
<< So which is it? "a greater rivet length" or "very close to the nominal
1.5d."???
Does it make anyone else wonder if the guy that wrote the factory manual
ever bothered to read it? I can honestly state that my greatest source of
frustration to date has had nothing to do with the actual construction of
the airplane, but rather the poor (in my opinion) way the factor manual is
written. But I digress. >>
Dennis,
Rob Rimbold and I just finished riveting our main spars and there really is
no question which of the -6 rivets fit which spaces. They come in 1/4 inch
increments in the kit usually and every time you add a bar, you go to next
size. The only rivets you need to cut or the -12's and this is a pain if you
are using the hand cutter. We ordered -11's from Skybolt (407-889-2613).
Seems strange that Van can't buy these ,yet the first people we called had
them here on UPS the next day. Most of the rivets are just short of our
length check before we " hammered " them, Yet they very easily met the head
thickness when the diameter was met.
Regarding the manual and the instructions. This is the fourth kit I've built
and this is the best plans and manual I've dealt with. Too many folks have
built airplanes from them for it not to have most of the info. It always
could be better, but one manufacturer just redid his completely since I built
my kit. The early version of the new one is not better yet, but has the
potential to be. So just ask questions when you can't find it. There are no
dumb questions, although some people at Van's may give you that impression
when you ask.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
| From: | greenrv(at)juno.com (Lawrence J. Greeno) |
Bill - It's been a while since I worked on my stab. I recall doing it
alone, using plenty of clamps and/or vice to hold the material being
riveted firm. Also - keep the gun pressure way down; that took me awhile
to catch on. I now use about 45-50 lbs. for 1/8th rivets, and about
25-30lbs. for 3/32 rivets. This will eliminate most damage. Also, watch
carefully the position of the gun on the rivet head. I've found that by
shifting the gun to where I can see the edge of the rivet, then adjusting
the gun square with the head from there, I rarely get smileys, etc.
Larry Greeno,RV6A - skinning wings
greenrv(at)juno.com EAA Ch.44 Roch.NY
writes:
>
>The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to apply.
>Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
>horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
>
>few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
>
>Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant
>other
>riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
>advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or
>meet
>a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll
>take
>any advice you have.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill Watson
>RV-6A, emp
>Wing delivery tomorrow
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
My opinion: I could not imagine not having a bucking partner for most
all of the major skin work. If you have someone local who you believe
can learn and be a good bucker, train them now on some of the 'easier'
surfaces and then the wing and fuselage work will go smoother.
I've heard of people who have done most of the work without a bucker. In
using a bucker, not only does the outside look better but, more
important, I know the inside shop heads are correcly set.
William H. Watson wrote:
>
>
> The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to apply.
> Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
> horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
> few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
>
> Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant other
> riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
> advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or meet
> a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll take
> any advice you have.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Watson
> RV-6A, emp
> Wing delivery tomorrow
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
Bill, Are you using the rivet gun using the tool with the rubber 'tire'
around it? I did mine the lonesome way and had no problems. The 'tire'
kept dings down to a minimum. Also I put the plastic electricians tape
over the rivets. It helped lots.
This is the reason you start with the empennage first. Thats the best
place to have the 'learning curve'.
Cecil Hatfield
6A fuselage now.
writes:
>
>The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to apply.
>Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
>horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
>
>few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
>
>Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant
>other
>riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
>advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or
>meet
>a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll
>take
>any advice you have.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill Watson
>RV-6A, emp
>Wing delivery tomorrow
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Alligator sqeezers |
Does anyone have experince with a alligator sqeezer?
I talked to one of the tool suppliers today about one
and they said they refused to carry them due to the
thing bending rivets over any input here?
Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
Jon,
I have several. Got a fax?
Bob Fritz
Qmax1(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
>> Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6 =
horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a =
few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant other =
riveter)? .<<
Bill,
I just went through the same dilema. I waited a week or more for one of
several possible helpers to show up. I was told this could be done by on=
e
person but was sceptical. I finally gave up waiting and went at it. =
Slowly, one rivet at a time. I am generally pleased with the results, a
few rivets will need to be shaved slightly. =
I used the flush swivel rivet set from Avery to drive the rivets. I feel=
that the use of this swivel set was instrumental in my good results. Sin=
ce
I was more or less under the stabilizer with one arm up each side, holdin=
g
the gun above my head, it was difficult to ensure proper gun alignment. =
The swivel feature made gun alignment less critical and I have no marks o=
n
the skin.
A friend who has never riveted before finally did show up as I was
finishing the VS. I set him up and let him practice a few rivets. I
decided to have him operate the rivet gun while I held the bucking bar. =
With my "vast" riveting experience (a couple hundred rivets by now? :-) )=
I
felt it was better if I did the bucking while my friend used the almost
fool proof swivel set. This worked out well for me. I would be interest=
ed
in others opinions on who does which job.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
<< the future of IFR GPSs >>
What I would like to see is a system linking a GPS with an up/down link via
cell phone data link to a computer server that would provide real time data
for weather, local airspace warnings, nearest landing sites, prices of fuel,
and other usable stuff. What I visualize is turning on my portable
combination GPS/cell phone/read-out screen and doing a preflight my trip. If
the weather and conditions look good ,then I'll go to the airport, plug in my
portable combination GPS/cell phone/read-out screen, preflight the plane, and
leave the ground. The pcgpscpros would inform the server that I am airborne
and give it my location/altitude at all times. I wont have to tell the FAA
that I might be located somewhere between point A and point B sometime in the
near future. The server will have my present location at all times. If I
land off sight, the server would inform the appropriate people.
I'll stop here and let your imagination take it from here.
Gene Francis, Wiring and fitting stuff in the RV-6A
cafgef(at)aol.com
PS, expected cell phone links are about $.05/minute and you don't need to be
on line all the time. Probablely cheaper than FAA user fees
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
I work around high power antennas quite a bit so we have to erect non
conductive barricades to keep people away from radiation hazards. We use
plastic chain strung between 2"dia lightweight plastic poles with a platic
ball at the top. The poles plug into expanding plastic bases which are
weighted with sand to keep them upright. Something like this would be light
enough to carry.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>>Take along some 3-5 ft metal rods and a lot of yellow tapeto wrap around
>>your bird. It may keep some of the clowns away.
>>Bruce
>
> I have thought of this. However, with all of the activity around these
>aircraft, I felt that metal rods sticking up would present a very real
>hazard if someone were to fall on one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Scratches & Dents |
I think all this damage could be stopped if the EAA would adopt the parking
style as used at Arlington. Bozo tourists can't get to the a/c, but they can
get close enough to keep 'em happy.
I'll just stay by my bird, or pay an armed guard/postal employee.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall's/Wheelen Power supply for strobes |
--=_ORCL_23275088_0_11919707111310160
I, too ordered their catalog, and it does seem like a suitable alternative. The
major
difference I noticed is that the Gall's version uses a plastic housing, whereas
the FAA
approved unit uses a metal housing. I would think this would have significant
RF noise
advantages. Anyone got any opinions?
For the $230 savings, I'll gladly build a little RF shielded box around the thing.
******************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell Oracle Corporation *
* Manager, Information Systems Phone: (713) 658-7748 Two Allen Center *
* Houston Development Center Fax: (713) 654-0676 1200 Smith Suite 2700 *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com Houston, TX 77002 *
******************************************************************************
--=_ORCL_23275088_0_11919707111310160
Date: 10 Jul 97 15:26:57
From:"Rick Osgood "
Subject:RV-List: Gall's/Wheelen Power supply for strobes
I received a techncal data sheet from Gall's on their standard strobe
power supply and thought I would share the basic specs.
First: This unit is made by Wheelen and is their model SPS-660C.
Up to six strobes can be powered by this single unit.
Specs:
Voltage - Input 10v - 30vDC
Current(12v) 6 AMPS
Current(26.5v) 3 AMPS
Flash Rate 140 F/M typical
Flash Patterns Single (Comet)
(selectable) Rapid Double
Joules - High 11/5/5/5 typical
Joules - Low 4/4/4/4 typical
Output Power 60 WATTS
Dimensions Could not read on fax.
Weight Not stated, but shipped as less
than 2lbs.
Cost New $99.00 - 5 year warranty
Refurb $75.00 - 90 day warranty
Could be a good alternative to the Wheelen FAA approved
models.
--
Rick Osgood
Hennipen Technical College
Eden Prairie, MN
--=_ORCL_23275088_0_11919707111310160--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert.R.F.Ziegler(at)scbvpno.simis.com |
Delivery-Date: 11 Jul 1997 17:29:37 +0100
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
Importance: normal
| Subject: | RE: RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
Autoforwarded: FALSE
Conversion-With-Loss: Allowed
Jon,
there is a website "http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm" which
contains some addresses for RV related article collections. (And lots of other
useful links)
Rgds
Robert
Flying STOL CH701, starting to build RV-6A after summer
Dipl.Ing. Robert Ziegler, ODE
Sac Postal Shell Congo B.V. Pointe-Noire
c/o UNIVERSAL EXPRESS
B.P. 10387 Aeroport Charles de Gaule
F-95706 Roissy CDG, FRANCE
Ph: +242 42 8356 (NEW)
Fax: +242 94 3447
Satphone: +871 382 040 322 ex221
SatFax: +871 682 040 490
Internet: Robert.R.F.Ziegler(at)scbvpno.simis.com
X.400: /I=RF/G=Robert/S=Ziegler/O=SCBV POINTE
NOIRE/PRMD=SHELL/ADMD=400NET/C=NL/
----------
From: -c=gb;a=cwmail;p=net;dda:RFC-822=owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com;
Sent: -Thursday, July 10, 1997 08:15 AM
Subject: -RV-List: RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes)
Hello,
I'm looking for flight tests, reviews, etc. of the RV-6. I assume that
a few should have been done by now, by magazines such as Sport Aviation,
Kitplanes, etc.
I went to the library today to look them up in the Guide to Periodical
literature. What a joke!! Neither Kitplanes, nor Sport Aviation, nor
any other airplane magazine I could think of, was even indexed!!! (Except
Air & Space) What is usually a good source of info for me is useless in
this case. I can understand not indexing Sport Aviation since it is a
membership magazine, but what about the others??: P
ANYWAY...: )
Can anyone help me out? I've heard that there might be a Sport Aviation
and maybe a Kitplanes index running around the Internet somewhere. I
searched the web and usenet for them, but no luck. Anyone know where I
could find these? Any other help or advice anyone can give me to help
me find articles about the RV-6 would be much appreciated!
Thanks in advance!!
-Jon-
. - steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/
-.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
Chris,
As a general rule of thumb,bigger is better when it comes to air
compressors. on the other hand smaller[compressors] is always better when it
comes to checkbooks.I use a craftsman 6hp 33gal. it seems to be about the
right size for my use[pneumatic sqeezers,drills,die grinders,spray guns.] I
think I paid $369.this was the biggest single stage portable I could find.2
stage is overkill,in my opinion,for home use.
hope this helps
chris marion
rv-6 elevators
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Military paint scheme |
Does anyone know what restrictions there are on military-like paint schemes?
Are there some restrictions regarding use of stars, etc.? Not that ANYONE
would DO such an idiotic thing....but with a VeriPrime finish it would look
so MILITARY and, wouldn't it be cool, if for just a little while, pending
the final paint scheme (narrowed down to about 37 choices now)..........
Just thinking..........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Cooper <bkcooper(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mars rover driver (repost) |
Wow, this has been the greatest week of my life! I could never have dreamed
that our mission to Mars would go so well. I have to say that I'm having an
absolute blast driving the rover on the surface. We have already
accomplished our mission success criteria and it's only been 5 days.
Tonight we are trying to put our Spectrometer on the difficult to approach
large rock named Yogi. The Scientists seem particularly facinated by the
textures they are seeing on this rock surface.
I'm really enjoying the warm words of encouragement from my fellow
rv-listers and from tons of total strangers from around the world. The
stress of safely leading the worlds most expensive car around from 120
million miles away is immense at times but at least I have the luxury of
escaping to my garage to pound a few theraputic rivits when I can. Thanks
for your interest and ofcourse thanks for the great RV dialogs that I
still try to make time for.
Brian K. Cooper
Rover Driver - RV6AQ - working on rear fuse skins.
>
>Hi Kelvin,
>
>This comming weeks People magazine will have two pages about Brian Cooper
>and the Mars Rover.
>
>Lynne (Mrs Cooper) wrote the following "and I rummaged through piles of
>photographs at home - so they might even include a picture of his
>in-progress airplane!" So maybe Brian's Quickbuild RV6 will get some
>national exposure this comming week.
>
>Cecil Hatfield
>
>
> writes:
>>
>>In today's Oregonian there is a picture of Brian Cooper in front of
>>his
>>computer terminal, complete with battery powered 3-D viewing glasses.
>>On
>>his bulletin board in the background is an aerial shot of, but what
>>else, an
>>RV6! kevin 6A - ON GEAR (and baffled!)
>>
>>
Brian K. Cooper
bkcooper(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
Hi Chris
I have a Sears 5hp. 25 gallon model and it does a good job. The price is
good too, especially on sale. However, I would not buy another because it is
incredibly LOUD! Perhaps if one lived 10 miles from all neighbors and had an
outbuilding 15 acres away this compressor would be perfect. But in the city,
in the gargage it is not acceptable.
Good luck in you search
Rob Miller
RV8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Warfield <KeithW(at)ncgwpc.syntellect.com> |
Bill,
What part of the country are you in?
Keith Warfield
RJ-6A 24555
> ----------
> From: William H. Watson[SMTP:alink.net!watson1(at)matronics.com]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 1997 10:01 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Two to Tango?
>
>
> The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to apply.
> Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the RV-6
> horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results, having a
>
> few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
>
> Have some of you done this riveting without a partner (significant
> other
> riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
> advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for or
> meet
> a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead, I'll
> take
> any advice you have.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Watson
> RV-6A, emp
> Wing delivery tomorrow
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
> http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
> "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
> subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Well, I did almost all the riveting myself except for the wing skins. I
think you will get better as you go on. Keep on moving and don't let
the dings get you down. (Easy to say, ain't it?)
Steve
Forever working on the wings, fuselage on order
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: William H. Watson [SMTP:alink.net!watson1(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 1997 1:01 AM
To: RV List
Subject: RV-List: Two to Tango?
The old addage about it never being as good alone seems to
apply.
Riveting the skins. Specifically, tonight, I tried riveting the
RV-6
horiz -stab skin alone. I am not too happy with the results,
having a
few dings and dents in the area around some rivets.
Have some of you done this riveting without a partner
(significant other
riveter)? Are there some areas where it is just not possible or
advisable? I could ask where is the best place to advertise for
or meet
a slim armed, but steady bucking person, but I won't. Instead,
I'll take
any advice you have.
Thanks,
Bill Watson
RV-6A, emp
Wing delivery tomorrow
+--
--+
| Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com |
| ---
|
| To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
| & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text
or subject. |
+--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Hi Chris,
I know people have been burning oil-less type compressors on the list
but, I bought one and am very pleased with it, so far. I got the sears
6.5 hp with a 33 gal tank. I wanted the biggest portable I could get.
It has handled constantly running a d.a. sander as well as a spray gun.
I got the oilless one because I was curious about their longevity, and
because my other oil type was putting a little oil in the lines and it
was getting past my filter into my spray gun. Made a mess of a paint
job, not that I needed any help. I've only had it 3 months, but it has
done more work than my other one has in it's ten years. Maybe it will
last? See ya.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David & Holly Pfister" <dpfister(at)top.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
Dennis, If I were to do it over again, I would spend the time to cut all
of the rivets to exactly 1.5(d). I drove the ones that were a little to
long and a few of them bent over (using the C-frame). Van's suggested
leaving them in because it is impossible to drive them back out. The only
way to replace them is to drill them out very slowly (it took over an hour)
with good lighting and a number 12 bit per Van's suggestion. They
suggested that if the shop head isn't too bad to just leave them, which I
did. It wouldn't take to long to grind them down exactly.
Good Luck,
David Pfister
builder #23132
wing construction
email: dpfister(at)top.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Scratches & Dents |
Thats right, this year the flightline is open to the unwashed masses, kids
and all. :)
I don't agree with the policy, and sent several E-mails to EAA voicing my
concerns several months back. All were answered acknowledging my concerns,
but...
At the time I had posted a note advising RVers to take their ropes for sure
this year, but I don't think too many had started to think about OshKosh in
January.
Anyway I think it has more to do with the exspansion West and reducing
overhead (security etc.) than anything.
Take your ropes, stanchions, whatever. Be prepared for more smokers etc.
Should be interesting.
RVator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | REEVES322(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
I did most all of the riveting alone, a few places that you need help..Get a
"Swivel Head" rivet set. Has a u-joint built in so it lays flat on the skin
even if your a little out of square. Avery Tools has them. Good luck,,
Bob, RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Solana" <solanas(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | stall warning horn location |
I've seen some RVs with stall warning horns installed. Does any one have
experience with what the location should be. I've seen conflicting info in
the archives, so experience on waht works would be great.
Rick Solana, RV-6a
Starting the finishing kit
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
I snipped the discussion that follows from a similar Compressor
discussion thread in full bloom on my Dastun Z-Car list.
Damn interesting if you are considering purchasing a compressor.
0002071353(at)mcimail.com (Luis Mac Lean) writes:
<< I feel obligated to respond to this. I have noticed that buying a
compressor is getting trickier and trickier. Manufacturers are play-
ing the HP rating gamewhich are guaranteed to cause you a great
degree of confusion and dissatisfaction.
Sears is amongst the worst of these. The problem is that they are
using artificially high HP numbers. Up 2+ times their actual power!
By this I mean that these guys are measuring the power that the
motor can deliver (for a very short period of time) while stalled. This
number is of no value to you. If you are going to buy based on HP
then you need to buy based on continuously deliverable power.
The equation is: (Volts x Amps/746)x(Power factor) = HP
Power factor (PF) is some number less than 1 greater than 0;
usually something around 0.7.
An example is the "5 HP" compressor Sear is selling for $299. The
electrical nameplate on it states that it draws 15 amps at 120 volts.
Using the equation above with a theoretical (and unobtainable) PF
of "1" you will quickly find that its HP rating is around 2.5 HP! Far
from 5 HP. In fact, 2.5 HP is what is known as the "apparent" power
rating because it uses the theoretical PF of "1;" the actual power
rating is significantly less than 2.5. My 4-5 year old Craftsman
compressor is rated at 5 HP. I calculated it to be around 4.2 HP
(apparent Power, since PF isn't given).
Sears has their new line of compressors and their flagship model
was rated at 6.0 HP and has recently been relabeled as a 6.5 HP
Compressor. Doing the math, its apparent power is around 4.5 HP.
How can they get away with this?
Hopefully I have made my point. Beware of HP ratings. The good
news is that when you get into some of the higher end compressors
the HP ratings become actual deliverable instead of "walk on water"
numbers.
If you are lost with the HP computations then you are probably better
off looking at CFM ratings. This is a measure of how many Cubic Feet
per Minute (CFM) a compressor can deliver continuously. My "5 HP"
compressor can deliver about 11 CFM at 90 PSI. The new "5 HP" $299
Sears compressor can deliver about 7.5 CFM at 90 PSI and their
"6.0/6.5 HP" compressor can deliver about 12 CFM at 90 PSI. They
also include a 40 PSI rating but I would ignore it for this discussion.
Getting to your question: To paint you need a powerful compressor.
The more the better. I would *guess* (I don't paint) that you need at
least 3 HP (apparent power). But, If you want to get above approx
3 HP you need to go to a 220v outlet. This is because normal house
wiring will limit you to 20 amp outlets at 115 volts (do the math). IF
220v outlets are available DO IT. I would have never guessed how
much I would be using my compressor. For painting you need a lot
of air. If you cannot get to 220 volt outlets then go for a big BIG
tank. Mine is 33 gallon, but a 60 or 80 gallon tank is preferable.
(not usually available with under 5 HP though). A 15 gallon tank
won't cut it.
For a decent, basic compressor I would plan on spending $300 -
$400. Any less and I would be doubtful of its ability to keep you
happy in the long run. Any more and I would hope you went for
one of those 80 gallon, 8(real) HP, 2 stage 175 PSI models. But
that is another email. >>
Andy Coradeschi
LA, CA
RV-6 (yeah, right, in my dreams)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Questions - South Africa |
aol.com!RWeek91970(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi!
>
> My Name is Robert Weekley. I am a young Entrepreneur, venturing into the new
> business trend
> of Electronic Commerce and Distribution Technology.
>
> I would like assistance in the form of leads, or contacts, with a spere of
> Influence in the market of
> South Africa, who would be interested in learning about and discussing the
> options of making
> Distribution Technology work for them.
>
> Our Business launches there officially on August 19, 1997! I am expecting to
> meet with other
> Team Players in British Columbia on the weekend of July 25-27. I hope to have
> any
> communication by that point at least identifying a selection of not more than
> 10 Key players, who
> I will have briefed, and will provide an option for them to meet with myself,
> and a select group of
> our team from British Columbia, Alberta, and possibly, Hawaii - prior to them
> committing to any
> Long term involvement.
>
> Related overview information will be handled initially over the net, expanded
> to Fax and
> Telephone, and contact with other team players as the confidence envelope is
> expanded. I see
> an opportunity in South Africa for a sizable Business Growth, and desire open
> minded, sharp,
> positive speaking individuals who can take direction from an experienced
> leadership team, with
> an eye to becoming a leader on their own, for which they will be rewarded
> appropriately, through
> Bonuses, Recognition, and Team Support, not to mention a sizable Cash Flow.
>
> Serious inquires requiring more specific business overview information may
> contact me: Mr.
> Robert Weekley by E-mail at RWeek91970(at)aol.com
>
> Thank you for your interest and support. You may feel free to pass this note
> on to all you feel my
> suit. Please include your name if you wish to be recognised for your support.
>
> I can't promise at this point that all will be accepted, as each case is
> specific, and must be
> determined individually.
>
> Thank you.
> RWeek91970(at)aol.com
> Toronto, Ontario CANADA
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
This is not the place for this solicitation.. Please take it elsewhere..
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Arlington Airfair |
Bob, Bill and Ed, where are you?? The Airfair is getting better and better.
After the torrential rainfall on Thursday around noon we were all glad to
see the sun and somewhat clear skies today. We had a 13 ship fly-by led by
Van in the RV6A. Tomorrow we expect to add 3 or 4 more aircraft to the fly-by.
We'll be serving 200 hamburgers along with 50 pounds of Salmon and all the
expected accompaniments (sp?) at noon on Saturday. Last year we fed about
180 people and we expect this year to add at least 40 to that number.
Steve Barnard with his Mazda engined RV4 braved the rain from his Oregon
home to the Airfair. He said the rain was the worst he has ever flown through.
Don Mingst and Bob Spencer taxied their RV6A across the field to show off
their Chevy Vortec 4.3L engine. They expect to get the blessing of the FAA
within the next week or two and be able to fly their aircraft.
Next year we hope to see many of the RV-List people.
John Ammeter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TESTPYLOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: (paint durethane II |
Hi Chirs and list
I am sorry to here about the misfortune with your canopy. You mentioned
that you used PPG's Durethane, I was wondering if it was the newer durethane
II. That is what I am currently painting my airplane with and am very happy
with the results.
One thing I would like to know is if you color sanded and polished your paint
shortly after painting it or left it the way you shot it. I am hearing from
numerous friends that any orange peal you might have tends to diminish over
time. Have you found this to be true. Thanks in advance for your reply.
This question is open to anyone that might have some experience with
polyurethane paint.
Werner Berry
finishing up with paint YES !!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wbpace(at)adnc.com (Bill Pace) |
| Subject: | Re: New Questions - South Africa |
>
>Hi!
>
>My Name is Robert Weekley. I am a young Entrepreneur, venturing into the new
>business trend...
[Other Marketing drivel deleted]
Jeez! This marketing spamming of the net has really gotten out of hand.
Maybe there should there be a "death penalty", i.e. banned from the
rv-list, for junk like this. Next thing you know, we'll start getting 900
number solicitiations on this (usually) "G" rated list.
Sorry to spout off, but this stuff really toasts my 'taters!
Back to lurking.
-----
Bill Pace
wbpace(at)adnc.com
RV-6A, wings in jigs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy William Benedict <jbenedic(at)uofport.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
Concerned RVers,
The "NSA" message a few of you received on July 2nd while trying to
access the Van's web site was the result of a malfunctioning web server.
I created it long ago late one night, hoping that the title "This must be
an awesome site!" would give away the fact that it was a joke. Ooops. :-)
My apologies to those I might have concerned, to those who contacted their
elected representatives, to those who joined the ACLU, to those who
enlisted in the militia, and to the NSA (I'll consider your job offer) :-)
Sorry about not clearing this up sooner, my e-mail mysterious failed last
week and was just recently restored...
The men in suits and dark sunglasses have found me again, gotta run,
Jeremy
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
| name://Jeremy Benedict | PP-ASEL (1994) [R/E: TD,HP] |
|email://jbenedic(at)uofport.edu | Logged: RV-4,-6,-6A,-6B,-6T |
| http://wally.uofport.edu/~jbenedic| Cessna 150, 182 |
|voice://503.514.3100 pager/vmail | TT: 307.4 hrs TT-RV: 163.8 hrs |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
PS: Part of the above message might have been written in jest ;-)
BTW: The preceding was solely my opinion, and would not necessarily
represent the opinion of my employer if I had one.
>
> Hello Listers:
>
> I just tried to browse the new www.vansaircraft.com website and received
> the following message:
>
> ============================
> National Security Agency
>
> The network you are trying to download information from has received enough
> traffic as to pose a potential security risk to the country. Apparantly,
> the file you requested is in great demand.
>
> Please try again tomorrow. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have
> caused.
>
> National Security Agency
> United States of America
> =============================
>
> Is this for real? I've _never_ received any message like this before. If it
> is for real then I guess it's just a testament to the popularity of this
> list and Van's airplanes. It's pretty spooky though... I'm not sure I like
> the government in the business of controlling how many "hits" a web site
> can have. Big brother's watching!
>
> Rod Woodard
> Loveland, Colorado
> RV-8, #80033
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com! |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh and EAA |
I too think the EAA has lost touch with us homebuilders and are motivated by
their own egos and the Warbird people. Letting non-aviation people out on the
flight line is crazy. Tom P. does not care however because it was not his
sweat that built your airplane. Notice too that they do not want us hiring
help to build our projects but then notice what they are flying. Should not
the homebuilders be given more respect than we get. It is almost as if the
homebuilders are looked upon as second class citizens in our own
organization. When I flew My KFOX to Osh. I was stuck way in the back. Why do
the storeboughts get the best places even if they are classics. Maybe we need
a new National Homebuilt Org. and this time not let any one join unless they
are building a homebuilt -- Cessnas need not apply even if they are 50 years
old. By the way, I had several uninvited guests climb into my airplane but
fortunately no damage. Also when I complained about being stuck in the
backfield I was told that afterall my KFOX was a very "lowend airplane" as if
I should be happy that I was allowed to even attend. At a local fly-in a
Cessna driver used his foot to shove my KFOX aside so that he would have more
room. Bring wife and take turns guarding is my suggestion. JRW KFOX 0SH and
RV-4 2280.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Rogers <rogersk(at)voyager.co.nz> |
At 10:27 AM 10-07-97 NZT, you wrote:
>
>I'm looking for a compressor for my garage-soon-to-be-home for an RV8 kit -
>
>Chris Hinch
>chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
>RV-8 builder-to-be
Hi Chris
Having been through this exercise myself about a year ago, I'll offer what
advice I can.
The capacity of the compressor you require will depend on what you want to
do with it. Just remember that the "free air" rating is what counts, and is
usually only around 75% of the capacity advertised.
First of all, for running a rivet gun even the smallest of the direct
coupled Able Cook or similar range will do, the rivet gun uses very little air.
However if you are planning on using an air drill you need at least 12cfm if
you don't want to wait for the compressor to catch up all the time. I used a
1/4" air drill for thousands of holes before deciding that running a 2.2hp
electric motor to drill 3/32" holes wasn't all that cost effective, and went
out and bought a Black & Decker 2 speed 2500/3000 rpm drill. It is heavier
than the air drill, but when taking the weight of the air hose into account,
very little different, but lacks the variable speed option. A variable speed
B&D can be had from Mitre 10 or similar for around $100 - $150, - cheaper on
special.
I have an Ingersol Rand 12cfm/50L unit which is working most of the time
with the air drill, and won't keep up with a 1/4" die grinder (very handy
with 1" and 2" 3M wheels for cleaning up lightening holes etc. and can be
had from Mitre 10 etc for around $60 - $70).
For priming I use a "touch-up" type spray gun, small paint cup means much
less waste, anything over 8-9cfm will drive this, but if you intend to
finish coat your aircraft you will need 14+cfm.
If you are in the market for a larger (around $1200) compressor, your best
bet in my opinion is the Campbell Hausfeld 3hp 14cfm twin cylinder cast iron
pump model, this will run a die grinder, drill, or a decent sized spray gun
continuously.
The units with separate motor/pump will last longer than the smaller direct
coupled type, however I would give serious consideration to using an
electric drill, and perhaps one of the cheaper Maverick or Mustang models
for rivetting and priming (with small spray gun).
Regards Ken Rogers
rogersk(at)voyager.co.nz
RV6 wings almost complete, fuse kit waiting.
Omarama, North Otago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gall's/Wheelen Power supply for strobes |
<33C53781.3F6A(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> <19970711.072711.10094.0.grihen(at)juno.com>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------63405B3554F3
juno.com!grihen(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> What or where is Galls? I am interested if this power supply will work
> for me.
>
> John Henley RV6 (grihen(at)juno.com)
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
Gall's is one of the largest suppliers of lights/sirens/misc to law
enforcement in the USA. They are in Kentucky. Here's the rest of the
story:
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
--------------63405B3554F3
Gall's Inc.
2680 Palumbo Dr.
Lexington, KY 40555-4308
1-800-477-7766
Wheelen Power Supply
Model# U-GR083
Price New $99.99
Price reman. $74.99
5 year warranty on new units
90 days on reman units.
Input Voltage - 12.0 - 28VDC
Input Current - 5.5 amps
Flash Rate - 120 per minute
Size - 2 1/8 x 5 1/4 x 6"
Weight - approx. 1 -2 lbs
Supports up to 6 individual strobe heads @ 45 Watts each.
--------------63405B3554F3--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CYoung9519(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
It seems there is are an ever-increasing number of disincentives for taking
your plane to fly-ins, especially Oshkosh. At one time, fly-in organizers
had actual incentives to encourage pilots to attend with their airplanes. No
admission fees, pilots eat free, free gas, gifts for pilots attending with
planes were used to encourage folks. If you consider what EAA has been doing
by way of policy and treatment of pilots attending with their airplanes, it
appears to me there is currently more in the way of disincentive, hence, I
shall not take my plane to Oshkosh this year, as the new policy is "the straw
that broke the camel's back". Very high admission costs, and profit-first
policies rather than consumer consideration really discourage me from
attending at all. I shall attend, but will drive in. At least I won't have
to worry about some idiot trashing my plane. Hey Tom, are you listening?
Chuck
6A flying
Holmen, Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Fuselage Jig |
Need to purchase, lease, rent, borrow or adopt: fuselage jig suitable
for building a straight RV6A.
I can pick up in TX, NM, AZ or So Cal.
If you know about an available jig owned by a non-lister, email me the
name and phone number.
Thanks in advance.
Jim Hurd New Mexico 505/743-1628 sealing tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Questions - South Africa |
----------
> From: aol.com!RWeek91970(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: New Questions - South Africa
> Date: Friday, July 11, 1997 12:41 AM
>
>
> Hi!
>
> My Name is Robert Weekley. I am a young Entrepreneur, venturing into the
new
> business trend
> of Electronic Commerce and Distribution Technology.
>
> I would like assistance in the form of leads, or contacts, with a spere
of
> Influence in the market of
> South Africa, who would be interested in learning about and discussing
the
> options of making
> Distribution Technology work for them.
>
> Our Business launches there officially on August 19, 1997! I am expecting
to
> meet with other
> Team Players in British Columbia on the weekend of July 25-27. I hope to
have
> any
> communication by that point at least identifying a selection of not more
than
> 10 Key players, who
> I will have briefed, and will provide an option for them to meet with
myself,
> and a select group of
> our team from British Columbia, Alberta, and possibly, Hawaii - prior to
them
> committing to any
> Long term involvement.
>
> Related overview information will be handled initially over the net,
expanded
> to Fax and
> Telephone, and contact with other team players as the confidence envelope
is
> expanded. I see
> an opportunity in South Africa for a sizable Business Growth, and desire
open
> minded, sharp,
> positive speaking individuals who can take direction from an experienced
> leadership team, with
> an eye to becoming a leader on their own, for which they will be rewarded
> appropriately, through
> Bonuses, Recognition, and Team Support, not to mention a sizable Cash
Flow.
>
> Serious inquires requiring more specific business overview information
may
> contact me: Mr.
> Robert Weekley by E-mail at RWeek91970(at)aol.com
>
> Thank you for your interest and support. You may feel free to pass this
note
> on to all you feel my
> suit. Please include your name if you wish to be recognised for your
support.
>
> I can't promise at this point that all will be accepted, as each case is
> specific, and must be
> determined individually.
Now is this blatant ,arrogant misuse of a facility for the use and
maintenance of RVers ? What the hell is the relevance to aircraft building
?........Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning horn location |
Rick,
I have a stall warning switch that I received from D. W. Richardson as
mentioned in the RVator. It came with an installation diagram. He has
installed this switch in several RV's in Europe and the location seems
to work well. It is mounted 21 1/4" forward of the leading edge top
skin intersection and 20 3/4" inboard of the wing tip less the
fiberglass tip.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gall's/Wheelen Power supply for strobes |
<< The major difference I noticed is that the Gall's version uses a plastic
housing, whereas the FAA approved unit uses a metal housing. I would think
this would have significant RF noise advantages. For the $230 savings, I'll
gladly build a little RF shielded box around the thing.
>>
I mounted my power supply under the baggage floor. It is completly
surrounded by aluminum, away from radios and stuff. Seemed like it would do
a good job of shielding.
Gene Francis, cafgef(at)aol.com
Finally got the nerve and cut my canopy into two pieces. Breathing again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Military paint scheme |
>Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:23:56
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Military paint scheme
>
>Does anyone know what restrictions there are on military-like paint
schemes? Are there some restrictions regarding use of stars, etc.? Not
that ANYONE would DO such an idiotic thing....but with a VeriPrime finish it
would look so MILITARY and, wouldn't it be cool, if for just a little while,
pending the final paint scheme (narrowed down to about 37 choices now)..........
>
>Just thinking..........
>
>Michael
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Questions - South Africa |
aol.com!RWeek91970(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi!
>
> My Name is Robert Weekley. I am a young Entrepreneur, venturing into the new
> business trend
> of Electronic Commerce and Distribution Technology.
*** rest of pitch snipped ***
Good going! You have now turned off all the readers of the RV-list.
Not only have you posted an inappropiate message for this group (hint:
RV-list = discussion of RV aircraft), which is annoying, but your
posting shows a couple of errors as far as the efficient use of Internet
technology. So, even if I were in the market for what you are looking
for, I would not be inclined to contact you because I don't feel you
have a sufficient grip of the subject. I won't go into details, because
I am not in the Internet consulting business to hand out free training.
Lest you think I am just being grouchy, and I am, I am also posting this
reply to the list in the hopes that it reduces the flame posts you will
get. My apologies to other 'listers and let's not start a long thread
on this, Ok? I also felt that the feedback might get you to review your
approach so that you might adopt a more successful one in the future.
Good luck to you.
PatK - Flion Software (pronounced "flyin' software)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:rear seat brace: RV-4 |
>This AD came out in the Rvator....
Hey, George:
The last RVator I have is April and it mentioned it at the top of page 12
but has no details. I could make something up that would work given the
diagram. But, it says that the Service Bulletin will be issued in June and
to let them know if didn't receive it, which I didn't, and have not talked
to anyone else who has. SO.....as with most problems I have had, I thought
I'd post it and see if anyone else had gotten the bulletin.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mars rover driver |
Brian Cooper wrote:
>
>
> Wow, this has been the greatest week of my life!
*** rest of update snipped ***
Thanks for keeping us posted. It's neat to have a connection to the
Mars project. On another note, I can hardly wait to see your completed
RV. I just hope you are in the cockpit when it flies, not controlling
it from the ground. They're not teaching you bad habits, are they? :)
PatK - RV-6A - Left wing awaiting bottom (final) skins rivetting!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
>
> ANYWAY... :)
>
> Can anyone help me out? I've heard that there might be a Sport Aviation
> and maybe a Kitplanes index running around the Internet somewhere. I
> searched the web and usenet for them, but no luck. Anyone know where I
> could find these? Any other help or advice anyone can give me to help
> me find articles about the RV-6 would be much appreciated!
You can call member services at EAA. They will give you a of RV
articles from EAA publications (Sport Aviation, Experimenter...).
Hope that helps.
tim
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel Hole Punch, Cup Holders |
Thanks for all of the suggestions. "Toyota" was the key. According
to my local Toyota parts department most Toyota cup holders
are essentially the same, except for the Previa's. I went to a local
salvage yard, looked at a couple of trashed Toyota pickups, and
picked the cup holder that was black and had the least face plate
tilt (so it would look good in a flat panel). $15 and 30 minutes
with a screw driver. A good deal.
Thanks,
Tim
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
> Can anyone help me out? I've heard that there might be a Sport Aviation
>and maybe a Kitplanes index running around the Internet somewhere. I
>searched the web and usenet for them, but no luck. Anyone know where I
I haven't seen them on the net. If you call the EAA library they will
gladly send you a list of articles that have appeared in Sport Aviation on a
particular subject. I have done this several times. There was no fee as of
the last time I used the service. Back issues were reasonably inexpensive,
when available, reprints of specific articles were a little pricy. If you
have access to the magazines and just need a list of articles, call the EAA.
You might find an e-mail address for the librarian on their site at
http://www.eaa.org.
I wrote the web site manager for the EAA about a year ago to suggest a link
to library services or access to their system for members. He indicated
that it probably would happen someday. Not yet though.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Surface finishing |
>
>Hi all,
>I admit it, I hate drudge work! There has to be an easier way to finish
>the edges of all these lovely parts Van's has sent me. After using the
>3M Scotch Brite wheel, the surfaces still have fine marks on them. Hand
I use the one inch Scotch Brite wheel on a mandrel in a pneumatic die
grinder. Start with the red wheel, which is really good enough. If you are
a fanatic about near microscopic 'scratches', make a second pass using a
grey Scotch Brite wheel. You'll find that after a little use, the wheels
get a Vee worn in them that makes it easy to keep the wheel on the edge of
the part and deburrs and polishes both sides of the edge at the same time.
This method works particularly well on lightening holes in ribs, flap
braces, etc. It works best if you do this before fluting parts that need to
be fluted, but with care, and a wheel that isn't too worn, you can use it to
clean up the edges of fluted parts as well.
Be careful to replace the wheel when it gets worn about halfway through. If
you insist on using a wheel that is too worn it will eventually be cut in
half by the part you are working on and the sharp screw end of the mandrel
will 'ha ha ha' on the face of your part. This is especially annoying if
the hole you are smoothing is for the tank filler and the scribed note is on
the outside surface of your tank skin. Don't ask how I found out this could
happen.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two to Tango? |
I to have had problems riveting alone.
I have since taught my daughter (10yrs) and son (11yrs) how to buck rivets.
They are usually more than willing to help on any part of the project. Just
make sure you let them do more than just buck rivets. Let them drill some
holes after you've pilot drilled them, have them squeeze some dimples,
countersink ect.
It does'nt take to much training and they sure do enjoy it. Plus I get help
when ever I need it.
They really havent made any serious mistakes, no more than I would have made.
Just make sure they ask questions and supervise them.
Good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skeleton Assembly |
>Don't get too hung up on the 1.5D, .5H size of shop heads. I believe the
>specs say over 1/3H and over 1 1/3D. Drilling out a rivet that is a
>little small will, unless you're a very good rivet remover, likely cause
>more damage than you fix.
>
>Frank.
Now you tell me! I thought that the 1.5D and .5H was a minimum
criteria. You could go a little larger but not less. I agree with you
about causing more damage than you fix by drilling out the rivet. My
duplicate parts on order from Vans can attest to it. Thanks for the info.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
RV-6A left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | swartz(at)southwind.net (David Swartzendruber) |
Please add me to the list.
swartz(at)southwind.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Ok guys for what its worth I have seen many people take the nonstick plastic
tape and tape it to the spinner, then to the leading edge of the wing, then
from the trailing edge of the wing to the elevator. This is a little more
practical for RV pilots with no room for more garbage. It will keep the
honest people honest, the rest you wouldnt be able to keep out or off anyway.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Wing Spar Rivet Length |
.
> It takes a lot of nerve to drill out that first spar rivet, but I had to
do a
> couple. Wish I'd had the list to ask for advise back then!
--+
Actually, there is a simple way to drill out those big scary 3/16" rivets.
Here's how: First off drill a #40 starter in the centre of the dimple on
the round head, keep drilling if you want to save changing bits again, but
drill only deep enough to refrain from punching through rivet completely.
Drill off the head with #30, continue to enlarge hole as before. Now the
piece de resistance....Insert a 1/8" punch into the deep hole and begin
tapping out with a small hammer... Guess what..nice clean original hole
remains..no oversize or distortion...Try it..you'll like it....Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh and EAA |
I am not writing to defend the P's. I am however writing to tell the
Warbird and classic types, side of the story. I have lived in both camps
at Osh Kosh, and have heard the same concerns there. The warbird types say
they burn 1000's of gallons of their own gas and get a hundred or two if
they are "chosen" to fly in the shows. The classic types also complain
that the warbird types fly the same airplanes with different paint and they
get free gas. The common denominator seems to be complaining.
Personally I think that Osh Kosh is the Greatest show in Aviation. I am
also troubled by some of the "motivations". I don't like the a-holes that
climb on airplanes, and I am also tired of reading about them here. Those
who have had enough need not go, those who haven't will. Can we drop this
subject anytime soon?
IMHO
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal RV-4 N240
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
----------
> From: aol.com!JRWillJR(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh and EAA
> Date: Saturday, July 12, 1997 1:37 AM
>
>
> I too think the EAA has lost touch with us homebuilders and are motivated
by
> their own egos and the Warbird people.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
>It seems there is are an ever-increasing number of disincentives for
>taking your plane to fly-ins, especially Oshkosh. At one time, fly-in
>organizers had actual incentives to encourage pilots to attend with
>their airplanes. No admission fees, pilots eat free, free gas, gifts for
>pilots attending with planes were used to encourage folks. If you
>consider what EAA has been doing by way of policy and treatment
>of pilots attending with their airplanes, it appears to me there is
>currently more in the way of disincentive, hence, I shall not take my
>plane to Oshkosh this year, as the new policy is "the straw that
>broke the camel's back". Very high admission costs, and profit-first
>policies rather than consumer consideration really discourage me
>from attending at all. I shall attend, but will drive in. At least I won't
>have to worry about some idiot trashing my plane. Hey Tom, are
>you listening?
I've been watching this thread for a bit. I had planned to fly to the
Oshkosh fly-in next year for the first time. I should have my RV-6A
done by then. What with the new policy, there is no way. I've seen
what inconsiderate people can do to an airplane.
Personally, I don't know why we let EAA continue in it's current
direction. Unless one can afford a $700,000 Lancair, or something
else of that nature, EAA doesn't give a diddly about us. We lowly
peons of the organization continue to feed our money and time to
them and get very little in return. If it weren't for the Young Eagles
program, I'd most likely drop out. I've spent hundreds of my own
money on that program and am still waiting for my 100 mission shirt
that I was promised in April! I don't need EAA to fight for me and my
ground roots needs as a homebuilder anymore. The homebuilt
industry is strong enough to do that for me. AOPA will fill in the
cracks. Maybe we should do some boycotting to get their attention.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Builder's Risk Insurance |
I am looking for a company to insure my plane during the building stages.
I tried Avmenco but without satisfaction. I asked for a blank policy and
received a rather-abbreviated looking two pages. I inquired about coverage
beyond what was spelled out in the sample policy and was given verbal
assurances, but the representative would not communicate them to me in
writing. Thus I am looking elsewhere.
I found a couple of aviation underwriters who would insure the uncompleted
plane only if I took out liability at the same time!
If any builders are satisfied with their policy, let me know.
Thanks.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig -- time to get insurance
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Security Warning?!? |
Bravo to you, for having a sense of humor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I got a new canopy today. I had to say "ouch" at the 200.00 shipping
cost. I guess overall 200.00 isn't much. ouch ouch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TESTPYLOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Durethane II paint (orange peal) |
Hi list
I am in the process of painting my RV-6A with PPGs Drethane II. I am
very happy with the results so far. In talking to numeous friends to apears
that polyurethane orange peal diminishes over time. I have color sanded and
polish only my sample paint board and it looks like a mirror. I am thinking
I should probably wait for some time befor polishing out the airplane. Has
anyone found this to be the case and if so what is a good time to let it
shrink. Thanks in advance.
Werner Berry
almost through painting (YES!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wbpace(at)adnc.com (Bill Pace) |
| Subject: | Silly question of the week |
OK, so here it is, your Dateline Silly Question Of The Week:
I bought good quality Clecoes from Avery, but I have started to accumulate
a pile of them that I can no longer use because they won't spring back
completely. They are binding up inside. Can anyone suggest the best way
to lubricate these things? WD-40? Graphite? Soak 'em in motor oil?
-----
Bill Pace
wbpace(at)adnc.com
San Diego, CA
RV-6A, drilling wing ribs to spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wbpace(at)adnc.com (Bill Pace) |
| Subject: | Moving wing rib after drilling |
I've had a problem with attaching my wing ribs (-6A) that I could use some
advice from the collective wisdom of the list.
First, some background. I've used the Frank Justice instructions for the
wing, and so far it's worked fairly well. One of the steps I followed was
to pre-drill both the main and leading edge ribs with pilot holes for
attachment to the spar. I used the fluting jig along with short, stiff
pieces of scrap aluminum sheet to simulate the skin to mate the two
together before drilling per his instructions. At the time, the result
looked good, but when I started to mate them to the spar, I felt that the
resulting contour of the skin over the spar flanges didn't work well with
how I had pre-positioned them with the fluting jig.
For the most part, this wasn't a major problem. The difference in most
cases was less than 1/32" so by careful filing within the pilot holes, I
was able to move most of them enough to get good results when I final
drilled to 1/8" for the rivets.
But the ribs at station 73.5, the ones with the aileron bellcrank, are off
more than 1/32", so I must resort to somewhat more drastic measures. My
options are:
1) Leave it alone and accept the slight uneven look this will give me.
- We're talking about 1/16" off here. I'm not building anything close
to a Champion level of workmanship, but this is a little too far off for
even me. It seems that everyone looks at the of the wing surface as
an important indicator of quality workmanship and I don't want to have
to keep apologizing for that "wrinkle" in the wing. :-{
2) Cut off the flange on the main ribs and rivet on a new flange.
- Normally an OK option, I don't like this one since it would be hard
to get the length of the rib just right. Plus, since these ribs have
already been modified for the bellcrank, I don't want to do more to them
than is necessary.
3) Put in bigger rivets.
- This is the best solution as far as I'm concerned. To maintain edge
distance on the flange and get the amount of adjustment I need, I would
have to use 5/32" rivets. I don't have any and Van's doesn't list any
AN470AD5 rivets in the Accessory Catalog. But I do have some BSPQ-5-4
rivets in my OOPS box, where I keep a bunch of unusual rivet sizes for
just such an emergency :-). These are 5/32" rivets so they could work.
3/16" rivets like we use in the wing spar are too big.
My question is how important is it to use driven rivets on this particular
rib? Since the bellcrank is attached to this rib, I wonder if the greater
strength of driven rivets is needed to handle any additional loads imposed
by the aileron pushrods. I don't know what the strength characteristics of
the BSPQ series is (does anyone?) so I would like some input on whether
these are acceptable. I could go to Cherry rivets, but at $1 a pop (pun
intended), it's a pricy solution.
By the way, if anyone does have information on the shear strength of the
various pop rivets we use (i.e. BSPQ, LP, AD, MD, MK series and Cherry) and
could publish it to the list, I'm sure that a lot of folks would like to
know this. I have the particulars on AN rivets in an old EAA pub around
here somewhere. I'll publish them when I find it.
TIA for all responses.
Regards,
-----
Bill Pace
wbpace(at)adnc.com
San Diego, CA
RV-6A, drilling wing ribs to spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wbpace(at)adnc.com (Bill Pace) |
Two things about compressors that you may want to know:
1) If you buy one that runs 110 volts, you will probably blow your circuit
breaker when the wife runs the vacume cleaner on the same circuit.
However, if already own a 110V, be aware that many can be easily converted
to 220V. I bought a Sears Craftsman (made by DeVilbiss) set up for 110V.
After a few nuisance trips of the CB, a visit to the friendly Sears
salesman produced the instructions for converting to 220V. They offer a
kit to do this (special order, about $25 I think), but I just bought the
parts at Home Depot. Be sure to get a metal shielded plug. The plastic
ones break when you drop them on the shop floor. Not that I know this from
actual experience, of course...
2) If your Clothes Dryer occupies the same room as your shop (both are my
garage), and you have a gas dryer, you can also easily convert the unused
220V outlet to match the plug you use on the compressor. Don't try to buy
a plug to match the dryer outlet since these are often premolded on cables
which are usually too short. Alternatively, you can make a short adapter
cable, but this will cost a little more.
Disclaimer: To paraphrase Dr. McCoy, "Dammit Jim, I'm a programmer, not an
electriction." And I don't play one on TV. But I did it so you can too.
-----
Bill Pace
wbpace(at)adnc.com
San Diego, CA
RV-6A, drilling wing ribs to spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Magazine indexes |
Been surfin' this morning and came across this. I havn't paid much
attention to the recent thread on this subject. I hope this is new.
Dave Fried
http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/cozy_mkIV/ref_info/
Magazine Indices (Compiled by Thomas Decker):
EAA Sport Aviation - 1960's
EAA Sport Aviation - 1970's
EAA Sport Aviation - 1980's
EAA Sport Aviation - 1990's
EAA Experimenter
Kitplanes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
I went to the library today to look them up in the Guide to Periodical
literature. What a joke!!
Jon,
All librarys are ran differently, try another (bigger is better).
Cecil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | REEVES322(at)aol.com |
This sounds wonderful, by 2050 maybe the FAA will buy it...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Frank,
just a comment from a book opn spray painting and some frustrating
experiences form another builder...
>
......
>Make sure the compressor has standard fittings, and good hoses. A few
>short hoses is much more convenient than one long one. Make sure the
>hose couplings don't leak; a waste of air pressure, and annoying.
.......
>Frank.
>
The book metioned that there is a large drop in pressure with long lengths
of hose. The amount is related to both the diameter of the hose and the
length (skin friction on the inside of the hose), but, interestingly, every
time a connector is put in the path 5 to 10lb is lost.
My friend ended up with 15lb at the spray gun with 110lb at the tank.
Needless to say the paint work was a mess and it took 2 months to sort out
what the problem was (both of us are new to spray painting).
IMHO you will need both short and long hoses with a large diameter.
Speaking of painting, any good or bad results with Hi Volume Low Pressure
(HVLP) painting gear???
I am thinking about getting an Apollo unit. There was so much airborne white
paint with the conventional spray it was impossible to see what needs to be
painted.
Royce (bolting on the engine mount) Craven
________________________________________________________________________________
Eduardo,
This is a very simple problem, all you need is a Stereo intercom system,I
recommend the sigtronics spa-400 stereocom which allows you to listen to ATC,
your passengers on voice activated intercom and your favorite music. The
system al ways gives ATC priority, and cuts out ICS and music as necessary.
Installation is simple and includes Stereo headset jacks. The unit is modular
so it can be disconnected for repair and troubleshooting without losing your
basic ATC communication capability. You will need stereo headphones.
When you look at the wiring diagram for any of the stereo intercoms you will
see that it calls for a common ground connection for the left and right music
channels. Most cassette and cd players now utilize a floating ground, which
means that each channel must be grounded back to the stereo, NOT the common
ground. Doing so will immediately destroy that channel. To allow this type of
radio to work you must make or buy a floating ground adapter. Easily made
with 2 capacitors and 2 diodes and about $5bucks @ radio shack. ( Interested
let me know).
When selecting a stereo don,t get suckered into one of those really expensive
aviation approved units, you are better off with a good medium priced
automotive unit for under $150 bucks. You don,t need a lot of watts since
you're only feeding to headphones. I've been running a CD player in my SIX
for six years and it's worked great, the only time I get any skipping is in
excess of 3.5 G's and when taxiing on rough surfaces especially in winter
when tires are hard.
Good Luck
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
>
>
><< the future of IFR GPSs >>
>What I would like to see is a system linking a GPS with an up/down link via
>cell phone data link to a computer server that would provide real time data
>for weather, local airspace warnings, nearest landing sites...
It's coming, and its called Freeflight. All aircraft will have digital
links to the ground and computers on board. You pick the place you want to
go and fly straight there. The digital links will provide each aircraft
with a warning of upcoming conflicting traffic and bad weather information.
The only time ATC will "interfere" with your flight is vectoring in heavy
traffic areas, airspace restrictions, etc. Whether or not the FAA can pull
it off remains to be seen; given their history with radar, microwave, and
gps technologies.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Builder's Risk Insurance |
Dennis,
Give Mac at AUA a call (1-800-727-3823) he likes to insure RV's...George
Orndorff
P.S. We have used him for years and are pleased with the service and price.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | crack in the W606A Spar Web |
Kamy,
What conclusion was reached on this?
Les
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Kam Yuk CHENG
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 1997 7:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: crack in the W606A Spar Web
Hi everyone,
We are building a RV-6A in the Mechanical Eng. Dept. of the University of
Western Australia. This is a final year project where a group of students
construct the airframe and conduct aerodynamic and structural design
analysis on the airframe.
Being a student project, it starts and stops because they have their
course work. when a group gets good at what they are doing, the students,
being in their last year, would get a job, typically with a mining or oil
& gas engineering companies in Western Australia.
So new group would start from scratch and get familiar with the
construction techniques before they work on RV-6A. So we are progressing
fairly slowly.
We have completed the tail section.
At the moment, a group of 4 stduents are working on the main spar section
of the wing and they made a first boo ! While drilling out an
unsatisfactory rivet on the W606A spar web, they made a 1/16 inch crack on
the shot head side of the web. The riviet is the first one from the bulk
head end ( first spreader bar). As far as I can see, the purpose of this
rivet is to secure the spar web to the spreader bar. The spreader bar
should be taking up all the stress and not the spar web.
I am requestiong some suggestions the best way to remedy this situation.
We cannot put a larger counter sunk rivet because we cannot access the
spreader bar since the rest of the main spar has been rivetted. Is it
quite o.k. to clean up the crack (after cleaning up the crack, the hole
would be a bit too big for the rivet) and put a small piece of thin plate
on the shot head side to prevent the rivet pulling through the hole. Any
suggestion would be well appreciated.
Very best regards
Kamy Cheng
Mech. Eng. Dept.
University of Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Brake pad replacement |
I've been a bit heavier on the brakes than I really should have been and find I
have to replace my
pads. Trouble is I'm a bit confused about the options. If someone has changed them
recently, can
you advise if you just bought linings and rivetted them, or did you buy the whole
pad. If rivetting
is necessary, do I need a special tool?
I've also lost the original documentation....I think the linings are Cleveland
66-106...can someone
confirm?
One last question...its been over two years since I put them on...can I do it without
jacking up
the wheel?
Any help will be appeciated.
Ken RV6A Flying
ken_hitchmough@.magic.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question of the week |
Bill Pace wrote:
>
> I bought good quality Clecoes from Avery, but I have started to accumulate
> -----
> Bill Pace
> wbpace(at)adnc.com
> San Diego, CA
> RV-6A, drilling wing ribs to spars
I have Clecoes that are used and are 7-10 years old and some that are
two years
old. I have not had any problems with weak spring back. I would think of
talking
to Avery's about this. This may be a manufacturer problem that he knows
about and can offer a remedy.
Good luck
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Spots under Vinyl Wrap |
I received my fuselage kit in mid-December '96 and just now removed the
vinyl-wrap protective film from the bottom and side skins to prepare them
for priming. On the side skin I saw several spots that at first looked
like water marks. They were about 3/8 inch in diameter and irregularly
shaped.
On closer inspection with a 5x glass the spots showed etching of the
Alclad. Some spots were rainbow-colored while others were a matte grey in
appearance.
I took a Scotchbrite Roloc fine wheel to the spots and was surprised to
find that they were deeper than I had thought. I stopped after a few
seconds of polishing so I wouldn't go beneath the Alclad.
I am curious if other builders have seen similar spots.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Alligator Rivet Sqeezer |
Has anyone used one of these type of sqeezers?
And what kind of results do you get? Any bent over
Rivets?
Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
Onto to the vertical stab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alligator sqeezers |
Mcomeaux writes:
<< Does anyone have experince with a alligator sqeezer?
I talked to one of the tool suppliers today about one
and they said they refused to carry them due to the
thing bending rivets over any input here >>
I inherited a number of AAF vintage sqeezer(sp). Amazingly with little TLC
they all work nicely. The alligator is my least favorite tool because it is
extremely tough to get it aligned so that you do not bend the rivet. If I
were buying tools, I would buy more heads for the linear movement types that
could reach most of the same rivets as the alligator.
Bernie Kerr
RV6A wing spars complete, one wing skeleton ready for rivets. Started end of
May, hope to fly next year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
Greetings. One of the air vents in my RV6A stays closed with very
little airspeed. It will stay open while taxing but on take off or in
flight it closes and stays closed because of the air pressure. If I want
air I must hold it open. The other one still works fine. This is the
typical black vent that Van sells, part SV-5. Anyone had a similar
experience and found a fix? J. E. Rehler
RV6A flying Corpus Christi, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
Well said, Chuck-
Jim Headrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving wing rib after drilling |
>I've had a problem with attaching my wing ribs (-6A) that I could use some
>advice from the collective wisdom of the list.
>. One of the steps I followed was to pre-drill both the main and leading
edge ribs with pilot holes for attachment to the spar.
>But the ribs at station 73.5, the ones with the aileron bellcrank, are off
>more than 1/32", so I must resort to somewhat more drastic measures. My
>options are:
-snip-
>TIA for all responses.
>Regards,
>Bill Pace
Bill,
One of the advantages of Van's kits are that the replacement parts are for
free (well almost). A couple of new ribs will set you back so little you
won't miss it. I have a couple of souveneir parts in a bin and one pair of
main/nose ribs is among them.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
6A fitting autopilot servo to wings (so glad I didn't rivet on those top skins)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question of the week |
Bill Pace wrote:
> I bought good quality Clecoes from Avery, but I have started to
> accumulate
> a pile of them that I can no longer use because they won't spring back
> completely. They are binding up inside. Can anyone suggest the best
> way
> to lubricate these things? WD-40? Graphite? Soak 'em in motor oil?
>
> -----
> Bill Pace
> wbpace(at)adnc.com
> San Diego, CA
> RV-6A, drilling wing ribs to spars
Hi Bill:
No such thing as a silly question, I had the same problem. I tried
soaking them in motor oil, it helped but did not eliminate the problem.
One bad side effect is that you will have little oil rings around each
hole (real pain to clean after). Could cause problems when painting time
arrives.
Still looking for a better solution, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: South African Commercial Message |
On the subject of:
> My Name is Robert Weekley. I am a young Entrepreneur,
> venturing into the new business trend
> of Electronic Commerce and Distribution Technology.
I sent him a polite note via private email informing him of the
inappropriate nature of his message. I received a nice polite apology in
reply.
I think it's the last we will hear from him.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tvelvick(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Stupid things that occur |
Well, I debated about whether I would put this on the list or not. However
for the sake of someone not doing what I did, I will fess up to my mistake.
I had been waiting on a part from Vans for my rudder skeleton for a while.
It came in yesterday and I finished the rudder skeleton. After putting it
back in the jig and riveting one side of the skeleton to the rudder skin, I
went to rivet the other side. Somehow, unbelievably, the plastic covering
was still on the one side and I had riveted all on the skin stiffeners with
the plastic between the skin and the rivets. I can blame it to poor
lighting, working late at night, but somehow I went brain dead for a while.
Well, after a couple of hours of stress management, I decided to to drill
out the rivets. It took me 6 hours to drill out 73 rivets and then remove
the plastic pieces left in the holes and re-rivet the skin stiffeners to
the skin. I had to enlarge 5 holes to 1/8" and used Avery's oops rivets in
those holes so you couldn't tell. I really thought that I would mess it up
worse and have to order a new skin.
Don't anyone tell me that I could have just left it the way it was. I
guess I have done my one stupid thing for the kit so I don't have to worry
about anything else now.
Needless to say, I won't have to worry about leaving the plastic covering
on from now on.
Regard,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
RV-6a empannage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder's Risk Insurance |
Hi Dennis,
I insured my project with U. S. Specialty Insurance Co.; P.O. Box 1546;
St. Peters, MO 63376-8546. The insured value is $78,000; the annual
premium is $512.00. One peculiarity in my case is that my new Lycoming
O-360-A1A, Hartzell constant speed prop, and my finished fuselage are
temporarily stored in a rental storage locker near my house until I
finish my wings. This was one of the principal reasons that I bought
insurance in the first place. I'd lose a lot of time and money if
thieves or vandals got into that storage locker.
You might try this company. They seem to know about homebuilders.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: for sale signs at OSH |
I, speaking for myself, of course, wouldn't complain too much if a guy
only had 3 or 4 bikini babes showing off his airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question of the week |
Bill,
Lubricate them with a drop of oil. Any kind works, but I use 3 in 1.
Dan Morris
> completely. They are binding up inside. Can anyone suggest the best way
> to lubricate these things? WD-40? Graphite? Soak 'em in motor oil?
>
>
>
>
> -----
> Bill Pace
> wbpace(at)adnc.com
> San Diego, CA
> RV-6A, drilling wing ribs to spars
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Arlington Airfair |
John Ammeter wrote:
>
>
> Steve Barnard with his Mazda engined RV4 braved the rain from his
> Oregon
> home to the Airfair. He said the rain was the worst he has ever flown
> through.
>
> Don Mingst and Bob Spencer taxied their RV6A across the field to show
> off
> their Chevy Vortec 4.3L engine. They expect to get the blessing of
> the FAA
> within the next week or two and be able to fly their aircraft.
>
> Next year we hope to see many of the RV-List people.
>
> John Ammeter
>
Actually John I think it was Steve Peckham(sp) not Steve Barnard
Steve was flying Powersports rotary powered RV-4.
Thanks again for the great hospitality that the Puget sound RVators
gave each of us, it was a blast being there and seeing probably
60 RV's and the 14 RV formation fly bys. Arlington just seems to get
better every year. I got to put allot of faces with names from the list.
and it was nice to meet each of you that came by and said hello.
The barbecue was better than ever tons of great food.
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question of the week |
Bill,
This is not a problem with weak springs. The Clecoes can rust or they can
become clogged with ProSeal. If the former, soak all the non-workers in kero
for a day then let them dry, put a drop of machine oil on the grippy bits
and exercise them a few times with the Clecoe pliers. If the latter, soak
them in MEK for half an hour before following the above.
Corrosion in the clecoes usually indicates a dampish workshop and you should
pay particular attention to corrosion prevention in other areas.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
>
>Bill Pace wrote:
>>
>> I bought good quality Clecoes from Avery, but I have started to accumulate
>> -----
>
>I have Clecoes that are used and are 7-10 years old and some that are
>two years
>old. I have not had any problems with weak spring back. I would think of
>talking
>to Avery's about this. This may be a manufacturer problem that he knows
>about and can offer a remedy.
>--
>Rick and Barbara Osgood
>
>RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
All pilots need to become aware that our goverment is trying to increase our
taxes again by charging for FAA services, use of public facilities and public
airspace. Read in AOPA that we general aviation types have been completely
left out of the FAA and Airline run Study Commision. Write your congressman
now if this scares you. Taxation without representation -- sounds familiar
somehow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | vern(at)ldd.net (VERN LEMASTERS) |
| Subject: | manifold pressure |
I hate to show my ignorance put here goes. I don't understand how a manif=
old pressure gauge operates. As I understand it the higher the manifold =
pressure gauge shows, the more power you are making,- the lower the press=
ure gauge the less power you are making. Is that correct so far? I know=
a manifold pressure gauge is really a barometer and with the engine not =
running it should show atmospheric pressure. At least mine does. I also =
believe the gauge hooks up to a cylinder on the carburetor side of the =
intake valve. Is that correct? I know when you suck on the "V" port on =
the gauge the needle goes down showing a vacuum or less pressure. It seem=
s to me that if the engine is making more power it should be sucking in =
more fuel and air through the carb and therefore have more vacuum in the =
intake manifold so it stands to reason to me that the gauge should be rea=
ding more vacuum (or less pressure) and the needle should go down and not=
up! Where am I screwing up here? I don't want to get any flames going =
but all of this came about when I was trying to hook up the manifold pres=
sure gauge on my Ford V-6 engine in the RV-6A. The engine convertion manu=
al says to hook up the manifold pressure gauge to a port at the base of =
the carburetor. When I hook it up there as soon as the engine starts the =
gauge goes all the way down and pegs on the zero side. I found a port in =
one of the intake runners just up from the valve and at this location the=
gauge reads about 8-10 at a very slow idle and then goes down to zero =
as soon as the engine is revved up at all. That seems to make sense to =
me if you use the theory above but that is not supposed to be the way the=
gauge reads! I then thought maybe I had the line going to the wrong port=
on the gauge. No such luck, there is another port on the gauge labled =
"P" but it is not threaded and there is just a shallow hole drilled in =
the boss. There is not an opening or connection to the inside of the gaug=
e at all as far as I can tell. You can blow or suck on this side and the =
gauge needle doesn't budge, confirming that the port is not connected to =
anything. Could this be my problem some how?I am really confused over thi=
s and I hope one of the gurus out in rv-land can straiten me out.
Thanks for the help and please no lectures about my engine choice.
Vern Lemasters
vern(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Rivet head dimensions |
>Dennis,
> Avery makes some neat little gauges to help you determine which lengths
>are correct. General rule of thumb: The undriven rivet should extend 1.5
>d's past the surface. The driven rivets should have a height of 1/2 d and a
>diameter of 1 1/2 d.
The exact dimensions for finished rivet heads are still on my web site at:-
http://www.flash.net/~gila/
... hope they help ...
... Gil (don't rework if it's not needed) Alexander
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh and EAA |
Did I hear it correctly that free gasoline is being provided to some EAA
members. Unbelievable. If so, exactly why should this be justified?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWeek91970(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: & South Africa Pitch - Apology! |
Now that I have been beat up on :-( and instructed as to the error of my
ways, and silly, ignorant, blatant use of this list for purposes beyond it's
intended scope, I apologise.
Again - I apologise, and am sorry for the distraction it may have caused. I
hope no RV-s have burned up in the flames - Heaven forbid!
Will try to get the information into the right channels and off the wrong
ones!
Thanks for your understanding!
Robert Weekley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Gall's/Whelen Power supply for strobes - NO |
Guys,
... I wouldn't use these units. This particular mix and match
won't meet the FAA output requirements.
If the specs. below are correct, this Power Supply does not
produce enough output (the 11 joules figure) to meet the FAA required
output of 400 effective candles. For the Whelen A600 and A650 units (the
wing tip mount units), a power of 12 joules per flash will only produce 380
effective candles (ref. the table in the ASS catalog). The Whelen
recommended power supply for multiple units (A413) produces 25 joules per
flash, and the single strobe supply (A490) produces 20 joules per flash.
This power output is considerably more than the max. 11 joules quoted below
- I don't fully understand the ratings below, and might also assume that
you get even less power (the 5 joules figure) if you use this supply for
multiple strobe heads.
The FAA does not give us many specific items that we have to
meet, but the power output and angular distribuion of the strobe light
outut is one that is given VERY specifically. Whelen (and Aeroflash) have
done their tests to produce an "FAA compliant system" .... if you mix and
match in this fashion, you should be prepared to prove your light output is
compliant.
This also goes for mounting styles, the angular mounting (unit
not horizontal) of the wingtip strobes directly on the tips of some RVs is
probably not compliant since the strobes have a "lens effect" built into
the pyrex cover to concentrate the light output in the horizontal plane.
Tilt the unit and you tilt the light distribution, which is called out
specifically in the FAA regulations, with a maximum in the horizontal
plane. Look at the variation in thickness of the pyrex cover some time.
The same problem also occurs if you mount a single strobe that
was designed for wing tip mounting in the RV fin at 90 degrees to it's
factory recommended direction. This would be great for an anti-collision
warning for a vertically diving collision hazard, but MUCH less effective
for the normal collision hazard that is at the same altitude as you are...:^)
Pick a Power Supply with more output (the aircraft unit?).
.... Gil (read the regs.) Alexander
PS I would make an entry (and recommendation to correct) on the EAA
Technical Counsellor visit record of any variations in the strobe system
similar to those mentioned above. Of course, the ultimate discussion on
light output is between you, the FAA and your insurance company.
RV6a, #20701, still on hold while elbow slowly heals
>I, too ordered their catalog, and it does seem like a suitable
alternative. The major
>difference I noticed is that the Gall's version uses a plastic housing,
whereas the FAA
>approved unit uses a metal housing. I would think this would have
significant RF noise
>advantages. Anyone got any opinions?
>
>* Steven Spruell
>
>
>I received a techncal data sheet from Gall's on their standard strobe
>power supply and thought I would share the basic specs.
>
>First: This unit is made by Wheelen and is their model SPS-660C.
> Up to six strobes can be powered by this single unit.
>Specs:
> Voltage - Input 10v - 30vDC
> Current(12v) 6 AMPS
> Current(26.5v) 3 AMPS
> Flash Rate 140 F/M typical
> Flash Patterns Single (Comet)
> (selectable) Rapid Double
> Joules - High 11/5/5/5 typical
> Joules - Low 4/4/4/4 typical
> Output Power 60 WATTS
> Dimensions Could not read on fax.
> Weight Not stated, but shipped as less
>than 2lbs.
> Cost New $99.00 - 5 year warranty
> Refurb $75.00 - 90 day warranty
>
>Could be a good alternative to the Wheelen FAA approved
>models.
>--
>Rick Osgood
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacquelyn eastburn" <jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Arlington fly-in |
wow! what an airshow. this was our first at Arlington. thanks to john
ammeter and the Puget Sound Aviators for a wonderful afternoon.. john what
a spread you had for all of us. the food was fantastic. loved the salmon.
rv-wing pins overwhelmingly accepted. for you RV'ers who missed them,
e-mail us or you can get yours at Oshkosh from DJ at
the Cleaveland Tool display. And John, thanks again!
jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net
Hillsboro Oregon
RV - 8 Ser. No. 80079
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh 97 parking |
EAA Convention Headquarters
Dear Sirs,
A lot of EAA members are very concerned with the safety of their planes
with the new policy of letting the general public on the flight line. We
understand the purpose of the convention is to make money. As there are more
of the general public than EAA members, the trend is to cater more to the
general public, not your membership. However, without the support of the EAA
membership and their planes, you would not have an airshow. Please seriously
consider some method of restraining the general public from walking in
between the parked planes and allowing them and their children to crawl all
over, under and around the planes. The unrestrained public will lead to
damage to planes that have taken many hours of precise work over many years
to complete the building. Damage may go unnoticed and compromise the safety
of the pilots and their passengers returning home. Many smaller airshows are
adopting the successful method of roping off sections of planes while leaving
aisles for the public to view all the planes from just a few feet away.
Again, remember these planes are the airshow and without them, you have
nothing to offer to the public.
George and Becki Orndorff N229RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question of the week |
Bill ,
just put a drop of oil on the end and work it in with the plyers....George
Orndofff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:rear seat brace: RV-4 |
No one has received theirs yet. We will be getting them out in the next
couple of weeks. Bill
>
>In the last RVator Van mentioned a fix for the rear seat of the RV-4 to keep
>the passenger out of the baggage compartment. Don't have it right here but
>I thought it was said that the -4 builders would soon be receiving the "AD"
>in the mail. Anyone gotten theirs yet?
>
>Michael
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 7/16 in HS spar? |
>Bill:
>
>No, a rumor is what *I* heard, and I'm trying to find out what really
>happened. I think most on the list have heard of this accident, but no cause
>has been published to my knowledge. Has there been a ruling on the cause of
>this accident yet? It sounds like the failure was at a seemingly strong part
>of the stab.
Mark, We have heard nothing as of this date. Bill
>I fly one of these types, so I'm interested in possible failure modes. I know
>of more than a few folks who twist and flip their -4's quite a bit, but no
>problems have surfaced.
>
>Check six!
>Mark
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh 97 aircraft parking |
Dear Y'all!
After reading the numerous concerns on EAA policies, we have written to
EAA with our own concerns at :
convention(at)eaa.org
We encourage everyone else to also let the EAA know how you feel by
directing your comments and frustrations to the above address. We can
discuss this among ourselves for a very long time, but none of us can do
anything to make it better. Let's make our feelings and wishes known to
those that are in control of the convention!
Hope to see you at a fly-in one day!
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pad replacement |
Ken,
Avery's have the pads you need and a set of dies to put the rivets in.
You only need to place the liner. However you will need to jack the plane and
remove the wheel. This is not a bad job you give you a chance to repack your
bearing at the same time....Keep them flying ....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pad replacement |
Ken Hitchmough wrote:
>
> Hitchmough)
>
> I've been a bit heavier on the brakes than I really should have been
> and find I have to replace my pads. Trouble is I'm a bit confused about the options.
If someone has
> changed them recently, can you advise if you just bought linings and rivetted
them, or did you
> buy the whole pad. If rivetting is necessary, do I need a special tool?
>
> I've also lost the original documentation....I think the linings are
> Cleveland 66-106...can someone confirm?
>
> One last question...its been over two years since I put them on...can
> I do it without jacking up the wheel?
>
> Any help will be appeciated.
>
> Ken RV6A Flying
>
> ken_hitchmough@.magic.ca
>
Ken, hi
You replace the linings by rivetting them to the steel back plates. You
will need special brass brake rivets and and a special rivetting tool
which you can get in most of the catalogs. The tool is relatively
cheap. Pay attention to the orientation of the old rivets before you
drill them out.
Sorry, I can't help you with the part number.
You don't have to remove the wheel or brake line. Just cut the safety
wire, remove the bolts bolts holding on the cap with the brake pad, and
slide the caliper out (the caliper floats on pins). You should torque
the bolts when reinstalling, and don't forget the safety wire.
You will need to season the new brake pads by taxiing slowly to warm
them up a little (not too hot), then let them cool down. Don't rely on
brand new pads to stop you on the first landing. They need to break in.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake pad replacement |
Ken,
I replaced my 6's pads after about 300 hours. I don't know if that is a lot
or not. I simply bought new pads, which come with rivets. The rivet setting
tool is a simple affair, not very expensive and is available from a number of
sources. The tools is set up to remove the old rivets and set the new ones.
You do not have to pull the wheels in order to change the pads. Just remove
the two bolts and it all comes apart in your hand. It's a quick and easy
job.
Rick McBride
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Silly question of the week |
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com (Bruce D Stobbe) |
Pace) writes:
>
>OK, so here it is, your Dateline Silly Question Of The Week:
>
>I bought good quality Clecoes from Avery, but I have started to
>accumulate
>a pile of them that I can no longer use because they won't spring back
>completely. They are binding up inside. Can anyone suggest the best
>way
>to lubricate these things? WD-40? Graphite? Soak 'em in motor oil?
Hi Bill,
I had exactly the same problem with quite a few of the clecos (especially
the copper-colored ones) I had bought from Avery in the last year or so.
I contacted Bob Avery about the problem and he quickly offered to replace
any bad ones and throw in a few extras to cover my trouble and return
shipping costs. IMO he is an excellent person to purchase from because
he never hesitates to make good if a problem occurs with something you
purchased from him. I suggest you give him a call.
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
Air Vent is a common problem. Everyone has it. To cure, fortunately is a
ridiculously simple thing. These controls are supported on either side with
an allen head screw (very small don't remember the size), which can be
accessed by swivelling the control around until exposed. Find the right
size allen wrench and screw it in a little bit. Voila. Not only does it
stiffen up the control, it also makes it seal better :}}.
D Walsh. RV-6A, 38 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pad replacement |
>Can you advise if you just buy linings and rivet them, or did you buy the
whole >pad. If rivetting is necessary, do I need a special tool?
Yes, you can just get the pads. They come with the rivets you need. You do
need a special tool but it pays for itself over the life of your airplane
(and you can do other pilots brakes).
>I've also lost the original documentation....I think the linings are
Cleveland 66-106...can someone
confirm?
I think so. The vendors (Aircraft spruce) usually have a full sized diagram
of the linings so you just compare.
>One last question...its been over two years since I put them on...can I do
it without jacking up the wheel?
Yes. The brake calipers come off without jacking up the wheel.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAllen6526(at)aol.com |
Randall is correct that GPS updates are currently in the range of $400-500
per year, and of course must be kept up to date.
Combine this with the high cost of the IFR GPS receivers themselves (due
largely to the unbelievable cost of certifying a TSO'd product containing
complex software), the high cost of the supporting annunciators and switches
(which can be many hundreds of dollars), the cost of installation (or
complexity of installation in our case) and you come up with a very expensive
capability.
On top of this you need to take into consideration that the current crop of
receivers are not capable of supporting future precision approach
requirements, so you're looking at another big chunk of change somewhere down
the line.
The price of a lot of things need to come down before IFR GPS is attractive
to the occassional user.
John Allen
Magellan Systems
RV-6A
Mounting the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | Re: New Questions - South Afric |
Thanks for that info Bob, any chance I could interest you in a career with
Am Way. If so lets do it OFF THE RV LIST, where we normally discuss
airplanes and stuff that attaches to them. By the way, no one here has any
money to invest on your once in a lifetime ground floor opportunity, we
build airplanes!
Eric Henson
>>>My Name is Robert Weekley. I am a young Entrepreneur, venturing into the
new
business trend
of Electronic Commerce and Distribution Technology.<<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9048.3058C3E0
I have never seen so much whinning since I left the Navy.
The sport aviation community is a small one - we need everybody to work
together to keep the feds off our back. The number of pilots and FBOs
continue to shrink. EAA is working hard to reverse that trend, and their
new policy is intended to INCLUDE more people, not be more exclusive.
Although there are not many of us, we all converge on Whitman field for
that one week. Expect to have to give in a little - be supportive and
voluteer to help, rather than sit back and criticise.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9048.3058C3E0
I have never seen so much whinning =
since I left the Navy.
The sport aviation community is a small =
one - we need everybody to work together to keep the feds off our back. =
The number of pilots and FBOs continue to shrink. EAA is =
working hard to reverse that trend, and their new policy is intended to =
INCLUDE more people, not be more exclusive.
Although there are =
not many of us, we all converge on Whitman field for that one week. =
Expect to have to give in a little - be supportive and voluteer to =
help, rather than sit back and criticise.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9048.3058C3E0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacquelyn eastburn" <jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Arlington airshow |
the airshow was great, we enjoyed it so much. john and the puget sound
aviators made us feel so welcome and we met a lot of nice people. how fun
to see that many RV's in one spot. RV wing pins were accepted with much
excitement, only a few left if anyone still wants one now. Cleveland Tools
(see DJ) will have new supply at Oshkosh if you miss this time. Wish we
could be there too but....work prevails. once again John, thanks again to
you and the group from the sound, we really enjoyed our first trip ever to
Arlington. p.s the salmon was really good!!!!!!!
jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net
Hillsboro Oregon
RV - 8 Ser. No. 80079
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
I saw a really nice, red, right-seat RV-6 at Arlington. I didn't
get the N-number. Anyone know who the owner is, and how I might
contact him? Perhaps you should reply to me privately.
Tedd McHenry
tedd(at)idacom.hp.com
Surrey, Canada
[-6 preview plans only]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh and EAA |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9058.3A442EC0
>
> Did I hear it correctly that free gasoline is being provided to some EAA
> members. Unbelievable. If so, exactly why should this be justified?
>
What is so unbelievable? EAA has available some small percs for pilots
that either fly in the airshow (unpaid) or that bring special, expensive
aircraft. These percs are curtesy cars (donated by auto dealers) or some
avgas. This is a small price to pay to bring in a F-16, B-17, or a Gee-Bee
which are all crowd pleasers and bring in considerable revenue.
And no, we're not going to be extended the same - for obvious reasons. One
of the toughest jobs at Oshkosh must be figuring out who gets the limited
percs.
Don't be so incredulous and nieve. EAA is a business - it has to be. And
overall, it supports us very well. Let's use this forum for building, OK?
David Moore
RV-6, working on the canopy
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9058.3A442EC0
> --> RV-List message =
posted by: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
>
> Did I hear it correctly that free =
gasoline is being provided to some EAA
> members. Unbelievable. If =
so, exactly why should this be justified?
>
What is so =
unbelievable? EAA has available some small percs for pilots that =
either fly in the airshow (unpaid) or that bring special, expensive =
aircraft. These percs are curtesy cars (donated by auto dealers) =
or some avgas. This is a small price to pay to bring in a F-16, =
B-17, or a Gee-Bee which are all crowd pleasers and bring in =
considerable revenue.
And no, we're not going to be =
extended the same - for obvious reasons. One of the toughest jobs =
at Oshkosh must be figuring out who gets the limited percs.
Don't =
be so incredulous and nieve. EAA is a business - it has to be. =
And overall, it supports us very well. Let's use this forum =
for building, OK?
David Moore
RV-6, working on the canopy =
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9058.3A442EC0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | intercoms/video cameras |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Does anyone know of a way to hardwire a videocamera's audio input to an
intercom? I've seen adapters that are available, but at an excessive
price (for what they were.) It seems like it would be pretty simple to
device, and I was wondering aloud to see if someone else has made their
own adapter before I tried doing it myself.
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Integrated Information Services, LLC
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hitchings" <briandh(at)lantic.co.za> |
| Subject: | Aviation Lawyer Needed |
Hi fellow listers
Sorry to abuse the list in this way, but this is a matter of great urgency.
Can somebody please email me directly with the name of a lawyer in the
Kansas City area about an aviation/commercial problem.
Thanks for the help.
Regards
Brian Hitchings
South Africa
Fax 27 18 462 7363
briandh(at)lantic.co.za
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Moving wing rib after drilling |
>... My
> options are:
>
> 1) Leave it alone and accept the slight uneven look this will give me.
>
> 2) Cut off the flange on the main ribs and rivet on a new flange.
>
> 3) Put in bigger rivets.
You forgot
4) Order a new rib from Van's.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
VERN LEMASTERS writes:
>
> It seem=
> s to me that if the engine is making more power it should be sucking in =
> more fuel and air through the carb and therefore have more vacuum in the =
> intake manifold so it stands to reason to me that the gauge should be rea=
> ding more vacuum (or less pressure) and the needle should go down and not=
> up!
I'm not familiar with the Ford V6, so I can't comment on your
particular installation. But here's how I think of the
manifold pressure. The higher the pressure in the manifold
(at a given RPM), the more fuel-air mixture is going to go
into the cylinder, hence more power is produced.
Another way to think of it is to consider the pressure drop
across the throttle. If you close the throttle valve at a
given RPM, what's going to happen to the manifold pressure?
It's going to drop, right? Likewise, if you open the throttle
the pressure's going to rise.
Tedd McHenry
tedd(at)idacom.hp.com
Surrey, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I have the DRE 244 stereo intercom in my Piper. You can supply a stereo
music source and all works fine. It is compatible with traditional mono
aviation headsets as well as the newer stereo aviation headsets. I have
used it with Bose (Series I), David Clark (the reference), Telex ANR, and
some of DRE's stereo (and low cost) sets.
My input is a portable ("hand held") CD player. All seems to work fine.
All other equipment in the plane is "standard" stuff (and therefore mono).
The standard *important* inputs are supplied "mono both".
So, the only thing I *had* to change was the intercom, the jacks, and its
wiring to the jacks.
Hope this helps.
Send email offlist for more info.
James
RV6AQ ... finally some progress on the ailerons (thanks Ken)
----------
> From: Edward Cole <concentric.net!emcole(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: Stereo!!!!
> Date: Thursday, July 10, 1997 4:18 PM
>
>
> I'm looking at all the avionics catalogs and putting together a wish
> list, but I need help on this "Stereo" thing.
> I'd like to include a CD player in the cockpit for longe cross country
> trips, but don't know quite how the integration of the mono nav/coms
> and headsets is accomplished with the stereo from the CD. Am I going to
> have to buy all new headsets, audio panel, and intercom???.
> Also, what is the best method to switch between com and cd without an
> audio panel?
> Thanks,
> Ed Cole
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arlington Airfair |
I would like to second Jerry's note. I appreciated John making the tickets
available on short notice for those of us who drove. I took my RV (28"
Collins fifth wheel trailer) and left my RV-6A at home (where the fuselage is
still in the box) but it was good to talk with other builders and get a few
more ideas to use. The Saturday lunch was great also. Thanks Seattle area
EAA'rs.
Bob Tinnell - one wing and parts finished for wing 2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | re:Brake pad replacement |
I wrote
>I've been a bit heavier on the brakes than I really should have been and find
I have to replace my
pads. >Trouble is I'm a bit confused about the options. If someone has changed
them recently, can
you advise if you >just bought linings and rivetted them, or did you buy the whole
pad. If
rivetting is necessary, do I need a >special tool?
>I've also lost the original documentation....I think the linings are Cleveland
66-106...can
someone confirm?
>One last question...its been over two years since I put them on...can I do it
without jacking up
the wheel?
Typical of someone with my impatience, I went out and did it anyway...here's the
result:
PIECE OF CAKE!
Two snips of the safety wire, two bolts and two nuts per wheel and the pads were
off. Three 1/8th
rivets drilled out per pad and they were then ready for relining.
My local shop has the pads and the tool and they'll rivet them on for me.
PIECE OF CAKE!
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot]] |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------365724E16163
Hey Gang:
I've been following this thread and, with every new horror story,
getting more concerned about taking my shiny new RV-4 back for the big
bash (oops, bad choice of words) convention this year. So I dashed off
an e-mail to EAA in which I attached a couple of the contributions to
the thread last week and noted my concerns. I received a very prompt
reply which, at Randall Henderson's suggestion, I thought I'd share with
you. It sounds like there won't be too much difference with the way
it's been and they are at least thinking about the problem. What do
y'all think?
BTW I had a great time at Arlington this weekend and managed to escape
any visible damage to my bird. Saw some very inspiring examples of RV's
there and met some more of the greatest people in the world.
DJ
--------------365724E16163
From: Dick Knapinski <dknapinski(at)eaa.org>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Re: RV-List: Osh Kosh Sales Lot]
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 14:08:16 -0500
Dennis:
Thanks for your e-mail. When we first announced the change, there were
some protests. What most people don't understand (especially in a couple
of the attachments included in your mailing), that more than 90 percent
of the people who came to EAA OSHKOSH in previous years were already on
the flight line. For instance, last year, 94% of all Oshkosh attendees
bought flight line passes. That's a lot of fences, security and other
logistics to keep out a couple thousand people. The person who said EAA
would make another $1.5 million by the change, well, I'm not sure where
he got his math. This change might mean about 50,000 more people on the
flight line over the ENTIRE WEEK -- people who have already paid just to
get in the gate. So there's no big financial uptick there. When there
are a total of 750,000 already on the flight line over the week, it's
not anything overwhelming. If people have had problems with flight line
attendees in previous years, please remember those people are already
supposedly involved with aviation.
Anyway, that's just some background. I've also included a response from
Tom Poberezny about the issue. If any of those folks want to talk with
Tom about it during the Fly-In this year, he's always around and
available. Feel free to post the following on any of your newsgroups or
bulletin boards.
Thanks for passing the comments along!
Best,
Dick Knapinski
EAA OSH
P.S. I look forward to seeing that RV-4 on the flight line (what's the
N-number?)
>From Tom Poberezny re: flight line admission change:
We've received comments and questions about the new EAA OSHKOSH
admission policy. The change in pricing structure was a decision that
evolved over several years, after following attendance trends and
demographics.
We've noticed that an increasing amount of recent EAA OSHKOSH total
attendance has been EAA members, guests and other aviation enthusiasts
eligible for flight line access. During the past few years, more than
94 percent of all Convention visitors purchased flight line admittance.
A lot of resources - both manpower and financial - have been committed
to separate the flight line and exposition areas for a relatively small
number of people. It seemed that those resources could be better used
in other areas.
The biggest concern expressed is possible damage to airplanes on the
flight line. The protection of the aircraft on the flight line is
always a top concern. We don't anticipate an increase in problems with
this change, but we will not stand idle to see what happens. Several
ideas are in the works to remind people to exercise great care around
the airplanes. It will be a point of emphasis at EAA OSHKOSH '97. That
may include such things as a slight flight line parking reconfiguration,
"courtesy patrols" and banner rope available to those pilots who request
it. Those are all ideas, just under consideration right now, that we'd
look at regardless of the flight line admission policy.
EAA OSHKOSH is still a convention for all EAA members, regardless of
their aviation interest. Members receive a huge admission discount,
especially with family members and guests. EAA is also much more than
the Convention's showcase for all of aviation. EAA is the total of its
programs, activities and people. The Convention is simply a catalyst
for involvement in sport aviation and EAA.
We've watched the trends as the event grows and adjusted to best serve
each group - pilot/builders, exhibitors, general attendees - who
participate. As always, if you have any other questions or comments,
feel free to contact me or anyone here at Headquarters. Thanks for your
involvement in EAA -- we're always interested in your comments and
ideas.
>----------
>From: Dennis Jackson[SMTP:denny(at)transport.com]
>Sent: Thursday, July 10, 1997 11:52 AM
>To: Webmaster
>Subject: [Fwd: Re: RV-List: Osh Kosh Sales Lot]
>
><><Sales Lot>><>
>Dear Sirs:
>
>I am coming to Oshkosh for the first time this year and I have a freshly
>painted RV-4 which I am becoming increasingly concerned about getting
>dinged up. I am forwarding a few of the comments that have been
>circulating on the RV List lately. The tone of these should ring a few
>alarm bells at EAA central I would think. If the members start feeling
>like they are being exploited and not appreciated, they (we) will stop
>participating in EAA activities and that would be a very sad day.
>Please give these comments your consideration. Thank you.
>
>Dennis Jackson, EAA 183613 / RV-4 N296DJ
>
>
--------------365724E16163--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
I went up on Wedesday and came back on Sunday. I tried to keep a count on
the RV's. I count 83 over the five days, some spending only a part of a
day. I may have missed some a few. I got lots of good ideas. I shall be
one next year...for sure.
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot]] |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------47C24C412B2
Well, since I'm started I might as well keep going. The enclosed is hot
off the press (tube?, web?). I will have to say that Mr. Knapinski is
VERY responsive! Can't help but like that.
DJ
--------------47C24C412B2
From: Dick Knapinski <dknapinski(at)eaa.org>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Re: RV-List: Osh Kosh Sales Lot]
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 16:42:04 -0500
Dennis:
Thanks for your reply. Heck, I don't mind anyone being longwinded
during discussions. It's when folks come back and whine about things to
everyone else instead of asking rather than asking directly that gets my
goat. That's why I appreciate your e-mail to us.
I wish we could legislate out idiots at airshows, fly-ins, on highways
and everywhere else. But some people are going to be dumb. I hope that
there are enough of us who care about things to put a stop to it as
often as possible. I believe that's the case at Oshkosh. Someone will
always have a horror story, but I truly believe they are fewer than most
would believe.
The other thing that I'll emphasize is that any ideas to make things
better are always welcome. Members have come up with some great ideas
over the years to make the event simpler, more enjoyable or safer.
Let's assume at this point that people (EAAers and non-EAA types) are
always going to be near the airplanes at Oshkosh. How do we have the
two live together peacefully during this event? That's the question for
which we're always interested in finding better answers.
Always open for your comments/ideas. See you on the flight line!
Best,
Dick
>----------
>From: Dennis Jackson[SMTP:denny(at)transport.com]
>Sent: Monday, July 14, 1997 12:21 PM
>To: Dick Knapinski
>Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: RV-List: Osh Kosh Sales Lot]
>
>Dick Knapinski wrote:
>>
>> Dennis:
>>
>> Thanks for your e-mail.(snip)... If people have had problems with flight
>>line
>> attendees in previous years, please remember those people are already
>> supposedly involved with aviation.
>
>Thanks for your prompt reply to my e-mail. I do feel a bit better now
>about bringing my airplane to Oshkosh, but not much. I guess that the
>above comment relates to part of the concern. If aircraft have been
>damaged in the past by people "supposedly involved with aviation" then
>what mischief will the "others" cause? My brief personal experience
>with large airshows where the general public is involved already
>includes a "horror story". At the Hillsboro, OR airshow this year I had
>my plane on display alongside the factory RV-8 and an RV-6. I was
>standing in front of my plane talking to people when John Morgan from
>Van's factory grabbed my arm and said, "Did you see that girl writing on
>your wing?" I thought he meant using the wing for a desk to write on
>some paper but no, I looked over at the -6 and here was about an 11 or
>12 year old girl with a pen trying to write on his propellor! I ran
>over to her and had a few words with her and instructed her not to touch
>any part of any airplane from now on. I think her parents were with her
>although I don't know. I was so upset I didn't think to ask. Nobody
>stepped up to claim ownership of the little brat. Fortunately I
>couldn't find any evidence of her attempted tagging on my wing so I
>escaped unscathed this time. Now this happened literally right behind
>my back so I'm sure you can understand why I am concerned about what is
>going to happen when I'm not there to watch.
>
>>I've also included a response from
>> Tom Poberezny about the issue. (snip)...
>
>> The biggest concern expressed is possible damage to airplanes on the
>> flight line. The protection of the aircraft on the flight line is
>> always a top concern. We don't anticipate an increase in problems with
>> this change, but we will not stand idle to see what happens. Several
>> ideas are in the works to remind people to exercise great care around
>> the airplanes. It will be a point of emphasis at EAA OSHKOSH '97. That
>> may include such things as a slight flight line parking reconfiguration,
>> "courtesy patrols" and banner rope available to those pilots who request
>> it. Those are all ideas, just under consideration right now, that we'd
>> look at regardless of the flight line admission policy.
>
>It seems to me that there cannot be too much attention paid to
>protecting display aircraft from damage. After all, that is the primary
>reason people come to Oshkosh, or at least it used to be. If you want a
>big commercial airshow affair then fine, but if you want the
>homebuilders to come with their airplanes then you will have to assure
>those builders that you are doing everything in your power to protect
>their airplanes.
>
>Sorry about being so long-winded, I didn't intend to get on a rant, I'm
>just interested in seeing EAA continue to be the great organization it
>has been for homebuilders. Thanks for your ear and your efforts.
>
>Dennis Jackson, EAA 183613 / RV-4 N296DJ
>
--------------47C24C412B2--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
>
>I'm
looking at all the avionics catalogs and putting together a wish
>list,
but I need help on this "Stereo" thing.
>I'd like to include a CD player in
the cockpit for longe cross country
>trips, but don't know quite how the
integration of the mono nav/coms
>and headsets is accomplished with the
stereo from the CD. Am I going to
>have to buy all new headsets, audio
panel, and intercom???.
>Also, what is the best method to switch between
com and cd without an
>audio panel?
>Thanks,
>Ed Cole
>
This may be a stupid question, but I guess that's never stopped me
before... ;)
What about putting actual speakers in the cockpit, just like automotive
stereo applications? I've never flown in an RV, so I don't know how quiet
they are; would the noise level be too high for this to work? A couple of
disadvantages I can think of offhand are the added weight and added power
requirements. (as opposed to running the sound through the headsets)
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parking at Oshkosh answer |
Guys,
Becki and I got a answer to our email to Oshkash ,its' listed below But I
still think everyone with a concern should write them....George Orndorff
....................................................................
George and Becki-
You have the same concern as many ... although we do not anticipate a
problem as only 4-5% of the attendees were purchasing General Admission
passes. You will be able to obtain Banner Rope at Homebuilt HQ to rope
off your plane if you so choose.
We'll see you at EAA Oshkosh '97.
Jill Goggins
Convention HQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Table - Van's Banquet |
<19970701.161909.-27473.1.cecilth(at)juno.com>
Oshkosh is only a two weeks away now,
The following list is where we are at at this time.
If you don't see your name, and thought you were on it,
I didn't get the message, so send it again.
Do I have your name spelled right?
Rember, if you have a change of plans, please let me know.
Cecil Hatfield
Tim Sweemer
Donna Sweemer
Jim Ayers
Jim Cone
Bev Cone
Peter Hanna
Les Rowles
Les Rowles' Mate
Joe Rex
Zelda Gifford
Bruce Knoll
Ted French
Jack French
Louis Willig
Marty Ssiler
Barbara Sailer
Ed Loveday
Richard Reynolds
Brian Yablon
Hal Kempthorne
Craig Moen
Bob Cornacchio
Ray Edling
Ian Dadd
The Banquet this year is Sunday evening starting at 6:30.
Ticket cost $20.00
Order your tickets from Vans before July 28. There will only be about
300 tickets available so first come first served. In the past, those
that order close to deadline can be picked up at Vans booth.
So we don't clutter the list, send your name and the number in your
party to me at cecilth(at)juno.com
Before July 29th (when I leave for mecca), keep me posted if I
need to remove your name.
Cecil Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
<< Am I going to have to buy all new headsets, audio panel, and intercom???.
Also, what is the best method to switch between com and cd without an audio
panel? >>
I use stereo head sets and the mono com comes thru both speakers. BTW, I
didn't use an audio panel either. I have a com, marker beacon and CD player
that all make noise at me at various times through my PS 2000 stereo
intercom.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAllen6526(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: IFR GPS/Free flight |
The downside to free flight is that it puts all the pieces in place for the
FAA to constantly know who you are and where you are, all the time.
It is a simple thing to attach a billing system to a tracking system. Be
careful what you wish for.
John Allen
RV6A
Mounting engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory S. Brewsaugh" <gregbrew(at)gte.net> |
Hello all,
I've got a Pre-Punched Empennage for a -6A. When preliminarily attaching
the spar (R-602PP) to the rudder skin (R-601PP), I noticed that the top
right hole on the spar flange is low by 1/8" and doesn't match the
skin!! The rest, and the left flange match. Any other P.P. folks out
there get this too? You may want to check, if you're not there yet. I'm
going to call Van's in the morning.
Greg Brewsaugh (gregbrew(at)gte.net)
RV-6A Empennage: Skinnin' the HS (Waitin' for a flattened dimple die.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | REngine breather question |
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)cctrap.com> |
I am using an air/oil separator, mounted on the firewall. Where is a good
place to connect the oil drain line back to the engine?
So far, the only solution I have come up with is to tap a fitting in the
oil dipstick tube. Is there another "unused" port on the engine itself
that could be used as a drain? If there is, it would have to be low on
the engine to allow for proper draining.
After looking over my engine, (O320-D1A), I have noticed a plugged port,
just to the right of the governor pad. Does anyone know the purpose of
this port? Could this be used as a drain return?
Thanks in advance for the help everyone,,,,
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)cctrap.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed questions |
You wrote:
>Hi Jim & Mark,
>Looking back in the archieves, it seems like you two are now the experts
>on Lightspeed headsets. Jim, have you tried the stereo out yet? Can
>either of you tell me the difference between the 15K and 20K models?
>Also, where is the best place get these? Do you know if I should wait
>until Osh for a discount to buy (Lightspeed in particular)?
>
>I'd like to get some headsets very soon, as I'm just getting back into
>flying and the club 172 is no where near as quiet as the Archer I
>learned to fly in, with no headsets. But, I don't want to make a hasty
>decision either. I'm also thinking of getting some Peltors or David
>Clarks, waiting on the ANRs until the RV is done (4-5 years away for
>me). Appreciate the input.
>
>Thanks!
>
>EB #80131
>
>PS - Jim, I also haven't gotten the newsletter with the review yet ;)
>If it's been recently mailed, you needn't bother with the email
>response.
I respond:
The stereo works well and the noise canceling feature has to be heard to be
believed. This is a very comfortable headset and has provisions for wearing
a baseball cap without the button at the top boring into your head.
Adjustment is very easy and the set is very light. The difference between
the 15K and the 20K is about $2.00 worth of parts and a slightly softer ear
pad on the 15K so that the passive noise reduction is a bit less. You can
get the headset directly from lightspeed and pay no tax or shipping, so it is
about the same price as from Gulf Coast.
Jim
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Wolcott <dww(at)open.org> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Sales Lot |
Regarding opening the flightline at Oshkosh this year, I would like to point
out another side. At a time when general aviation as been struggling to
survive (ie: declining pilot ppopulation, general liability concerns of
manufactures, out of reach prices on new manufactured airplanes, potential
new FAA user fees, etc., etc.), the EAA has been a bright spot. They have
taken what was in the past a fringe part of aviation (ie: homebuilders),
and turned into an acceptable and respectable alternative to airplane
ownership. Perhaps the most visible way they have done this has been Oshkosh.
So this year it seems that the EAA has chosen to take their product (ie: us
in our homebuilt aircraft) one step closer to the general public by allowing
them on the flightline. I for one applaud this move. It shows me that the
EAA has the confidence in the airplanes that we manufacturer, and that they
are proud to show them off. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not blind to the
fact that this will also bring in a lot of revenue. But I honestly believe
that our association wants the general public to see close up that we can
build flying machines just as nice, if not nicer, than anything thing that
comes out of Kansas or Florida.
There is always going to be those individuals that do not respect the
property of others. This is, unfortunately, a fact of life. However, it
should be noted that there is always a risk that someone will damage your
airplane whether the flight line is open to the general public or not.
Though I duly note that it expotentially increases when non-airplane people
are around airplanes. But, as has been outlined by numerous e-mails in this
formum there are ways to reduce these risks.
To conclude, if opening up the flightline is good for the EAA (ie: more
money, potentially more builders), and good for general aviation (ie:
greater respect for Experimental aircraft, better understanding of the
machines we build, maybe even a few more new pilots), then I for one am
willing to take the risk (next year if my plane is done by then) and put my
plane on the flight line. I was fortunate enough to go to Oshkosh last year
(Piper Senaca) and vowed when I left that the next time would be in my
airplane. That's still my plan, so looking ahead to Oshkosh '98, I can't wait.
Gotta go, I have some rivets that need bucking.
Dennis Wolcott
Salem, OR
Wing Spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | vern(at)ldd.net (VERN LEMASTERS) |
| Subject: | thanks for manifold pressure reply |
First off I want to thank everyone who replied. Thanks to your excellent =
responces I believe I now understand the whole situation a lot better. =
I also think I have discovered my unique problem. There was two things =
that I had forgot to mention in my original post, #1 I was running the =
engine without the prop. (Yes there is a flywheel on it and the psru as =
well so it does run just fine without the prop and I can also run it in =
the shop that way) #2 This engine does not have the original cam in it =
and at a slow idle it does produce quite a bit of "cam lope". I believe =
that the cam lobe overlap was somehow contributing to the manifold pressu=
re going down just as the engine is revving up off of a slow idle. I disc=
overed tonight that if I continue to rev the engine up , say above 1400 =
rpm or so the manifold pressure starts to come back up and then operates =
as it should. I think that a contributing factor is the fact that since =
the engine doesn't have a prop on it it is producing very little power. =
Does any of that make sense? I am curious to see how much things change =
when I put the prop back on it again. Thanks again to all who replied =
and I will keep you posted.
vern(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spots under Vinyl Wrap |
try leaving your wings in the basement with the plastic removed just around
the rivet holes (remember how you thought it would be better protection that
way?) for a year and you may find the start of white stuff. You may also
discover some scratchs under the plastic which must have occurred before you
received the skin but sure as hell aren't going to return it now. My
advice, warm it up, peal it off. kevin 6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Rivet head dimensions |
Second try after 24 hrs. ... hope it's not a repeat ... Gil
>Dennis,
> Avery makes some neat little gauges to help you determine which lengths
>are correct. General rule of thumb: The undriven rivet should extend 1.5
>d's past the surface. The driven rivets should have a height of 1/2 d and a
>diameter of 1 1/2 d.
The exact dimensions for finished rivet heads are still on my web site at:-
http://www.flash.net/~gila/
... hope they help ...
... Gil (don't rework if it's not needed) Alexander
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Gall's/Whelen Power supply for strobes - NO |
Second try after 24 hrs. ... hope it's not a repeat ... Gil
Guys,
... I wouldn't use these units. This particular mix and match
won't meet the FAA output requirements.
If the specs. below are correct, this Power Supply does not
produce enough output (the 11 joules figure) to meet the FAA required
output of 400 effective candles. For the Whelen A600 and A650 units (the
wing tip mount units), a power of 12 joules per flash will only produce 380
effective candles (ref. the table in the ASS catalog). The Whelen
recommended power supply for multiple units (A413) produces 25 joules per
flash, and the single strobe supply (A490) produces 20 joules per flash.
This power output is considerably more than the max. 11 joules quoted below
- I don't fully understand the ratings below, and might also assume that
you get even less power (the 5 joules figure) if you use this supply for
multiple strobe heads.
The FAA does not give us many specific items that we have to
meet, but the power output and angular distribuion of the strobe light
outut is one that is given VERY specifically. Whelen (and Aeroflash) have
done their tests to produce an "FAA compliant system" .... if you mix and
match in this fashion, you should be prepared to prove your light output is
compliant.
This also goes for mounting styles, the angular mounting (unit
not horizontal) of the wingtip strobes directly on the tips of some RVs is
probably not compliant since the strobes have a "lens effect" built into
the pyrex cover to concentrate the light output in the horizontal plane.
Tilt the unit and you tilt the light distribution, which is called out
specifically in the FAA regulations, with a maximum in the horizontal
plane. Look at the variation in thickness of the pyrex cover some time.
The same problem also occurs if you mount a single strobe that
was designed for wing tip mounting in the RV fin at 90 degrees to it's
factory recommended direction. This would be great for an anti-collision
warning for a vertically diving collision hazard, but MUCH less effective
for the normal collision hazard that is at the same altitude as you are...:^)
Pick a Power Supply with more output (the aircraft unit?).
.... Gil (read the regs.) Alexander
PS I would make an entry (and recommendation to correct) on the EAA
Technical Counsellor visit record of any variations in the strobe system
similar to those mentioned above. Of course, the ultimate discussion on
light output is between you, the FAA and your insurance company.
RV6a, #20701, still on hold while elbow slowly heals
>I, too ordered their catalog, and it does seem like a suitable
alternative. The major
>difference I noticed is that the Gall's version uses a plastic housing,
whereas the FAA
>approved unit uses a metal housing. I would think this would have
significant RF noise
>advantages. Anyone got any opinions?
>
>* Steven Spruell
>
>
>I received a techncal data sheet from Gall's on their standard strobe
>power supply and thought I would share the basic specs.
>
>First: This unit is made by Wheelen and is their model SPS-660C.
> Up to six strobes can be powered by this single unit.
>Specs:
> Voltage - Input 10v - 30vDC
> Current(12v) 6 AMPS
> Current(26.5v) 3 AMPS
> Flash Rate 140 F/M typical
> Flash Patterns Single (Comet)
> (selectable) Rapid Double
> Joules - High 11/5/5/5 typical
> Joules - Low 4/4/4/4 typical
> Output Power 60 WATTS
> Dimensions Could not read on fax.
> Weight Not stated, but shipped as less
>than 2lbs.
> Cost New $99.00 - 5 year warranty
> Refurb $75.00 - 90 day warranty
>
>Could be a good alternative to the Wheelen FAA approved
>models.
>--
>Rick Osgood
>
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh 97 parking |
>
> EAA Convention Headquarters
>
> Dear Sirs,
>
> ... Again, remember these planes are the airshow and without them, you
> have
> nothing to offer to the public.
> George and Becki Orndorff N229RV
>
Well put - AMEN!
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
"Either Raise Your Skill Level... or Lower Your Standards"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pad replacement |
Phil Arter wrote
>Pay attention to the orientation of the old rivets before you
>drill them out.
Oh Oh!
Already done.
Not quite sure what you mean here. Can you explain?
Thanks to all who responded.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | July Houston Bay Area RVators Mtg |
HBAR will hold it's July meeting this Thursday night at 19:00 at my house.
Anyone in the greater Houston (particularly south Houston) area interested
in RV's is encouraged to attend. E-mail me for directions.
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
*************************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Getting an RV-6A to the field |
Listers,
There was a recent thread about moving an RV-6 across the country. This
Sunday my completed RV-6A will be going to the airport. The trip is about
25 miles. I understand that it will fit into a 24' Ryder truck. What is
the best way to load/ unload the plane. (backwards/ forwards)? What type of
ramps are needed? Any other truck options? The fuse will be the only thing
traveling in the truck. The engine is hung and prop is off. Any input
would be greatly appreciated. At this stage of the game I don't want
anything to happen to my baby.
Scott Gesele N506RV (going to the field :)))))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Stratmoen <dstrats(at)ruralink.com> |
| Subject: | airframe options |
Just got a ride in an RV6 last evening, that put the nail in the coffin.
Will be ordering an RV6AQ very soon. I was wondering what decisions have
to be made before the order? Such as speed mods from aftermarket
vendors, which could be deleted from order for credit. Am I right in
assuming I don't have to know what motor will be going in at this time?
Any comments are very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Dave (starting RV6AQ very soon)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pad replacement |
In my few years experience as an A&P (44 years) and a two time builder of
RV's, I must disagree that you need to jack the aircraft and remove the wheel
to change the brake pads. Just remove the 2 bolts that hold the assembly in
place on the disc and the inside pad will slip off the 2 studs that hold it
in place. The inside pad on it's mount will drop down on the wheel and can
be easily removed with your bare hand. Drill, remove the old pad, rivet on
the new one and use the reverse procedure to install the new brakes.
Jim
RV4 (s/n 959) and RV6A (s/n24482)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: thanks for manifold pressure reply |
VERN LEMASTERS wrote:
>
(A message all on one very, very long line!)
Dear Vern,
Thanks for your contributions to the group, but for future compositions
could you please turn your linewrap function on? Thanks.
DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Getting an RV-6A to the field |
Scott and Listers
The best way I have heard to move an RV to the field is to call your local
tow truck company and get one with the reclining bed that the entire car is
then winched up onto. Many of the locals around the Houston area have used
this method. The tow truck operator in our area has quite a bit of
experience with this method. He knows how to secure the fuselage and how to
load it.
I would think that traveling nose first would do the least amout of damage
to the tail surfaces due to the open truck with some wind accross the tail
surfaces. RVs are not designed for tailslides, so I would not carry them
that way in an open truck.
Bob Busick
RV-6
RBusick505(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
David Moore wrote:
>
> I have never seen so much whinning since I left the Navy.
>
> The sport aviation community is a small one - we need everybody to
> work together to keep the feds off our back. The number of pilots and
> FBOs continue to shrink. EAA is working hard to reverse that trend,
> and their new policy is intended to INCLUDE more people, not be more
> exclusive.
>
> Although there are not many of us, we all converge on Whitman field
> for that one week. Expect to have to give in a little - be supportive
> and voluteer to help, rather than sit back and criticise.
I am all for "inclusion" but.... the EAA has an obligation to offer
reasonable
protection to the aircraft of it's "members". I support the effort but
not the
plan as is currently offered.
Tell me I'm whinning after some kid has his lawn chair parked on your
wing....
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I have 3 questions.
1. Are there any noticeable ground handling differences in the
rv-4's with the newer, longer gear legs and the older original length
legs? The difference in height is 4 inches. (Center of prop spinner to
ground, unloaded)
2. I was thinking about rigging a hitch to attach the tail wheel
to my truck bumper for towing the fuselage to the airport. Has anyone
had experience with towing one down the road?
3. Has anyone who dealt with an FAA preflight inspection had any
problems because of lack of building history (pictures, logs, etc)? I
need to know because I'm fixing to call them for an inspection.
Any replies will be appreciated. You can reply offsets if preferred.
Thanks.
Lottmc(at)datastar.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question of the week |
Same experience I had. Bob said throw them in a box and save them up until
it was worth the trouble to ship them or bring them to Oshkosh or S&F and
he would replace them and throw in extras for the trouble. I've had to
return several things I purchased and he has always made more than good!
Makes me feel guilty!
-Gene Gottschalk
RV-6A fuselage skins going on, it seems never ending!
N700RV, registered and now insured!
July 06, 1997 - July 15, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-dc