RV-Archive.digest.vol-dd
July 15, 1997 - July 25, 1997
>Hi Bill,
>
>I had exactly the same problem with quite a few of the clecos (especially
>the copper-colored ones) I had bought from Avery in the last year or so.
>I contacted Bob Avery about the problem and he quickly offered to replace
>any bad ones and throw in a few extras to cover my trouble and return
>shipping costs. IMO he is an excellent person to purchase from because
>he never hesitates to make good if a problem occurs with something you
>purchased from him. I suggest you give him a call.
>
>Bruce Stobbe
>RV-6
>fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Sales Lot |
I agree with Dennis that we have to let the public see our work if we expect
any support from them at the ballot box or in the government. If we cannot
make general aviation grow we will all be riding boxcars in the sky in the
near future. The danger of some dings will be there even at our home bases
and we must be vigilant and help educate the public as to how to appreciate
our work. Criticism will not do this.
I have always appreciated the philosophy of one of my early instructors, Ray
Schenck, at Clarinda, Iowa in the 1940's and 50's. He had a license signed by
Orville Wright and was active in aviation nearly all of his 90-some years. As
a flying farmer got ready to leave Ray's FBO office one day he said "Ray,
I'll go down and run those kids out of your hangars before I leave so you
won't have to bother with them." Three boys aged about 8-11 were moving down
his row of t-hangars, going in and looking at the planes. Ray's response was,
"You let those kids look at those airplanes as long as they want. Then send
them up here so I can buy them a soda pop. Ten years from now they are going
to be my bread and butter." As a result of this attitude Ray always had a lot
of activity around his little airport and was probably the greatest salesman
for sport and general aviation I have known.
We need more Ray Schencks in the field of aviation today rather than more
fences around our airports with signs warning that trespass violators will be
prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law-whatever that means. What a
negative welcome mat we have laid out for our potential fellow flyers! We
spend far too much time telling them what they CANNOT do in aviation and so
little telling them what they CAN do. If it costs me a fingerprint or minor
scratch on my plane to convey a message that the public is welcome to
aviation, that's a price I am most willing to pay.
My soap box is now available for rent.
Bob Tinnell - RV-6A wings coming along, fuselage still in the box.
Salem, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
Thanks for the clue on the loose air vent. J. E. Rehler RV6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Metal or wood prop? |
I recently purchased a wonderful RV-4. It is equipped with a 150 hp Lyc with
an Ed Sterba Wood prop. What is the general concensus out there, is the
Seisenich metal prop better than wood in performance??? Currently at 6500'
I'm getting 2700 RPM with 2450 maninfold pressure, about 160 mph indicated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intercoms/video cameras |
Hi Bob:
I made a simple adapter to record radio communications on my microcassette
recorder through an extra headset jack in my Cherokee. If I remember
correctly, it was just a simple 1/4" mono plug down to a sub-mini plug
which went to my microcassette. The only downside is that I had to fly with
the intercom on even when I was solo in order for the output to the
cassette to work. The setup worked very well and probably only cost me
about $5 in connectors.
I would think you'd be able to do the same thing with audio for your video
camera. The only catch might be that you'd have to wire an "extra" headset
(sound only) jack in your airplane. If you've already got a built-in
intercom, most of them are capable of 4-places off the shelf so it
shouldn't require any major upgrade.
Good luck,
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033
Loveland, Colorado
----------
> From: Bob Japundza <IIS-INTELLECT.COM!Bjapundza(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: intercoms/video cameras
> Date: Monday, July 14, 1997 12:30 PM
>
>
> Does anyone know of a way to hardwire a videocamera's audio input to an
> intercom? I've seen adapters that are available, but at an excessive
> price (for what they were.) It seems like it would be pretty simple to
> device, and I was wondering aloud to see if someone else has made their
> own adapter before I tried doing it myself.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Japundza
> Integrated Information Services, LLC
> bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Table - Van's Banquet |
<19970523.154146.21871.3.cecilth(at)juno.com>
For those that are going to Van's banquet Sunday Aug 3rd.
I've be told that the tickets you paid for, to the Banquet will not be
mailed out. They will be at Van's booth for pickup.
The tickets will be in Van's office about 7-21-97, to late to mail out
safely.
Cecil Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | QuietFlite Intercom? |
charset="iso-8859-1"
I'm looking to the QuiteFlite Odyssey intercom after my tech counselor
recommended looking into one for great stereo intercom system. Here are
the points I pulled off of the avionix website:
* HI-power, HI-FI internal amplifiers that can drive over 20 headsets
of almost
any type, even military ones, at full power and with perfect clarity.
* Multiple "fully automatic" Digitrac squelch circuits that only
activate the
microphone of the person speaking, eliminating the rushing wind noise
heard with other intercoms.
* "AVR" Priority with mini-muting lets you control whether audio volume
priority is given to the controller or pilots without shutting out
either.
* Super HI-FI Stereo/Mono music inputs let you connect any portable
or panel mounted FM stereo radio, CD, or tape player and enjoy a
concert in your plane, with no interference to ATC or cabin
communication. Camcorder output is included. <<<--------(nice)
* Fail safe circuits automatically switch everything directly to your
comms in the unlikely event of a failure.
Has anyone used one of these? At $379 it's pretty steep, but after
renting many
planes with crappy intercoms I'm willing to pay more if it's top of the
line.
I haven't found out if it has the "soft mute" where it cuts out the
audio input
and then slowly ramps it back up, but I'll try to find out.
Any input? (thanks)
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA RV-6AQME N727MF reserved
Installing electric flaps, thinking about canopy...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wbpace(at)adnc.com (Bill Pace) |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid things that occur |
>went to rivet the other side. Somehow, unbelievably, the plastic covering
>was still on the one side and I had riveted all on the skin stiffeners with
>the plastic between the skin and the rivets. I can blame it to poor
Hey, stuff happens, ya know? I thought I had removed the plastic around
all of the holes in one of my ailerons. Found out a week later when I was
admiring my work that I had missed one hole at the trailing edge. Out came
the rivet, cleaned the plastic, and pop-riveted it back into place. At
least it's on the bottom :-).
What was worse is that my soldering iron slightly scored the Alclad when I
removed it around some of the holes. I'll have to rethink how I handle the
plastic when I do the wing skins. Oh well, live and learn.
-----
Bill Pace
wbpace(at)adnc.com
San Diego, CA
RV-6A, drilling wing ribs to spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pad replacement |
In my few years experience as an A&P (44 years) and a two time builder of
RV's, I must disagree that you need to jack the aircraft and remove the wheel
to change the brake pads. Just remove the 2 bolts that hold the assembly in
place on the disc and the inside pad will slip off the 2 studs that hold it
in place. The inside pad on it's mount will drop down on the wheel and can
be easily removed with your bare hand. Drill, remove the old pad, rivet on
the new one and use the reverse procedure to install the new brakes.
Yup, thats exactly how it went. As I said...piece of pie (or was it easy as cake?)
Interesting point was that the Rapco linings had a different break in procedure
than the one that
came with the clevelands.
The Rapco box said "come to a stop from a fast taxi (30-40 mph) twice. Allow brakes
to cool. See if
they hold at high power, if not repeat"
The Cleveland box said something like "At 1700 rpm taxi for 1/ mile at 10 mph"
(can't remember
exact numbers)
Thanks again to all who responded with tips.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pad replacement |
<33CA1FDC.9DA2B516(at)MCI2000.com>
Ken Hitchmough wrote:
>
> Phil Arter wrote
>
> >Pay attention to the orientation of the old rivets before you
> >drill them out.
>
> Oh Oh!
>
> Already done.
>
> Not quite sure what you mean here. Can you explain?
>
> Thanks to all who responded.
>
> Ken
>
Ken, hi
All I meant was, the factory head goes up against the lining, and the
shop head goes on the side with the steel plate.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gcomfo(at)tc3net.com (Gordon Comfort) |
| Subject: | Re: intercoms/video cameras |
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of a way to hardwire a videocamera's audio input to an
> intercom? I've seen adapters that are available, but at an excessive
> price (for what they were.) It seems like it would be pretty simple to
> device, and I was wondering aloud to see if someone else has made their
> own adapter before I tried doing it myself.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Japundza
> Integrated Information Services, LLC
> bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
When I was wiring my RV 4 I installed an extra microphone jack and
obtained an extra plug for same. Then from Radio Shack came a mic cord
that matched the video camera and a 1K ohm, 1/4 watt resistor. One of
the factory connectors was cut off the camera cord and the aircraft plug
installed with the resistor soldered into the mic lead and located
inside the plug handle. Strain relief was provided. It works very well
with the Sigtronics intercom in the aircraft.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
In reply to the concerns about the general public mingling with aircraft.
One way to possibly suggest that they be careful of the planes is to deny
children under a certain age (8 yrs?) permission to be on the flight line
even if with adults. Anybody for this idea?
Bruce
Starting RV6A after Osh.
>
>David Moore wrote:
>>
>> I have never seen so much whinning since I left the Navy.
>>
>> The sport aviation community is a small one - we need everybody to
>> work together to keep the feds off our back. The number of pilots and
>> FBOs continue to shrink. EAA is working hard to reverse that trend,
>> and their new policy is intended to INCLUDE more people, not be more
>> exclusive.
>>
>> Although there are not many of us, we all converge on Whitman field
>> for that one week. Expect to have to give in a little - be supportive
>> and voluteer to help, rather than sit back and criticise.
>
>I am all for "inclusion" but.... the EAA has an obligation to offer
>reasonable
>protection to the aircraft of it's "members". I support the effort but
>not the
>plan as is currently offered.
>
>Tell me I'm whinning after some kid has his lawn chair parked on your
>wing....
>--
>Rick and Barbara Osgood
>
>RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: airframe options |
>Just got a ride in an RV6 last evening, that put the nail in the coffin.
>Will be ordering an RV6AQ very soon. I was wondering what decisions have
>to be made before the order? Such as speed mods from aftermarket
>vendors, which could be deleted from order for credit. Am I right in
>assuming I don't have to know what motor will be going in at this time?
Dave,
I wouldn't worry too much about speed modifications from aftermarket
vendors. Spam cans benefit from them, but Van's did such a good job with
the design of the RV's that there really isn't much (if any) room for
significant improvements. There are a few products out there, wingtips for
example, whose manufacturer has "optimistic" performance gains. Just
build a stock RV and you will have one hell of an airplane.
You are correct in assuming that you don't need to know what engine is going
in at the time of order. Keep in mind that if you opt for a new engine from
Van's, they can have a significant lead time.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV (finishing painting and going to the airport this
weekend :)))
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
| From: | "William H. Watson" <watson1(at)alink.net> |
>> It seem=
>> s to me that if the engine is making more power it should be sucking in =
>> more fuel and air through the carb and therefore have more vacuum in the =
>> intake manifold so it stands to reason to me that the gauge should be rea=
>> ding more vacuum (or less pressure) and the needle should go down and not=
>> up!
My first experience with manifold pressure (or vacume) was when the
windshield wipers slowed down or slopped after floored the accelerator
and entered the passing lane in an old Chevy. At idle, they flapped away
like crazy....
Bill Watson
RV6A
Wings to Inventory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: REngine breather question |
While on this subject, I have two lots of air/oil to get rid of. The first
from the crankcase breather, and the second from the vacuum pump, I have the
"wet: type.
As a temporary measure I ran the two tubes down to the exhaust, but now the
bottom of the fuselage is covered with oil, which drips onto the hangar floor.
I intend to drill and tap a fitting into the oil filler tube, which is
plastic. I have two oil separators to mount on the firwall - my question is,
can I run both oil outlets into the same fitting ? And do I need two oil
separators ? The pressures from each outlet will be different.
John Cocker
36 hours already and increasing every day.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)cyberhighway.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Small Mistake? |
----------
>
> Hello all,
>
> I've got a Pre-Punched Empennage for a -6A. When preliminarily attaching
> the spar (R-602PP) to the rudder skin (R-601PP), I noticed that the top
> right hole on the spar flange is low by 1/8" and doesn't match the
> skin!!>
Hi Greg,
I've run into the same thing. I drilled the spar to match the skin
and then I made a small doubler to mount inside the spar flange that spans
two rivets to make up for the extra hole in the spar flange.
Let me kow what you come up with.
See Ya
Dave Bergh
RV6 emp. almost done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intercoms/video cameras |
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of a way to hardwire a videocamera's audio input to an
> intercom? I've seen adapters that are available, but at an excessive
> price (for what they were.) It seems like it would be pretty simple to
> device, and I was wondering aloud to see if someone else has made their
> own adapter before I tried doing it myself.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Japundza
> Integrated Information Services, LLC
> bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
Bob,
A lot of the intercoms has an audio out jack. Use a standard radio shack
mono cable.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rick Jorgensen" <rpjorgen(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal or wood prop? |
congradulations on the purchase.
where did you purchase this airplane?
How do you like the 150hp
If i could ask, how much did it sell for?
thanks
----------
>
>
> I recently purchased a wonderful RV-4. It is equipped with a 150 hp =
Lyc with
> an Ed Sterba Wood prop. What is the general concensus out there, is =
the
> Seisenich metal prop better than wood in performance??? Currently at =
6500'
> I'm getting 2700 RPM with 2450 maninfold pressure, about 160 mph indica=
ted.
>
>
>
> +-- =
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.c=
om |
> | --- =
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request@matronics=
.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or sub=
ject. |
> +-- =
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BChat64832(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: thanks for manifold pressure reply |
Vern,
there
are two ''vacuum'' ports on most auto carbs manufactered in the last 15
years.One above the butterfly and ,the other below the butterfly.The vacuum
advance connects to the port above the butterfly which allows
timing to be advanced only when the butterfly moves off
the idle position - improves emissions while degrading efficiency.The
other port provides full time vacuum for other purposes. The above applies
to automotive applications ONLY. Vacuum advance probably is not used on
aircraft applications.
Your
manifold pressure guage apparently was connected above the butterfly which
may have allowed the high velocity rush of air that occurs when the butterfly
opens,to suck the reading down to zero.Then,as power is increased , velocity
decreases, allowing the guage to read closer to actual manifold
pressure. I would be very surprised if
accurate manifold pressure readings can be obtained from either of
these ports-too many velocity changes.A more accurate reading
should be available at the manifold port provided for power
brake vacuum,if you can adapt to it.I don't see how the absence of a prop
could cause the situation you described.
I
believe there is a lot of interest in this type of installation ---sure would
appreciate if you could keep us informed.
Bob Chatham
RV6-A wings-ailerons
Columbia S.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
----------
> From: Michael C. Lott <datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Questions
> 2. I was thinking about rigging a hitch to attach the tail wheel
> to my truck bumper for towing the fuselage to the airport. Has anyone
> had experience with towing one down the road?
>
I have indirectly, this is how I got a great engine because the tow flipped
and rolled........RV great for aerobatics, but not this
low................Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
<< I have never seen so much whinning since I left the Navy.
The sport aviation community is a small one - we need everybody to work
together to keep the feds off our back. The number of pilots and FBOs
continue to shrink. EAA is working hard to reverse that trend, and their
new policy is intended to INCLUDE more people, not be more exclusive.
Although there are not many of us, we all converge on Whitman field for
that one week. Expect to have to give in a little - be supportive and
voluteer to help, rather than sit back and criticise.
>>
Good point
Gene Francis; cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh and EAA |
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com (Bruce D Stobbe) |
David wrote:
snip
>Don't be so incredulous and nieve. EAA is a business - it has to be.
And
overall, it supports us very well. Let's use this forum for building,
OK?<
If all we ever discuss here is primers, what length rivet to use, the
best bandsaw to buy, and which compressor is best, don't you think it'll
get a little boring after awhile? Personally, I enjoy the variations in
topics that are generally aviation related and outside the realm of
*pure* RV building... Anyway, I have to agree with those who have had
their pride and joy mauled by the uncaring actions of others. I wonder
what those same people would say if they came back to their car to find
you sitting on their hood with your kids watching the airshow.
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6; N508RV (res)
yep, still working on the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Small Mistake? |
greg,
I just finished my rudder and had the same problem.I just drilled a new
hole in the flange.using the skin as a guide.worked fine.
chris marion
rv-6 starting elevator
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D Hiatt" <OttoPilot_MSN(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | List Traffic During Oshkosh. |
It seems like we've got about one-third more traffic on the list today than we
had a year ago. Maybe that's just my impression, though. Anyway, I'm wondering
about going away for ten days or so and leaving things alone, as against
cancelling the list for a week, or chancing that everything will be fine when
I get back.
I have the feeling that most of the heavy-talkers are going to be at Oshkosh
at least part of that time, and thus without computer access and so any
messages that are sent will wait happily for our return.
On the other hand, all it takes is for someone to fill-up their mailbox and
the bounced-message traffic could fill up some more. I know we've been warned
by Matronics that if we do that we'll be instantly un-subscribed as soon as
its discovered, but then again I kind of expect they'll be at Oshkosh, too!
Anyone have any ideas on how things might go, this year? The Microsoft Network
mailboxes don't (or at least haven't) fill(ed) up yet and are supposed to be
good for a few hundred messages, but in this day of Spam and with the
increased message traffic on the list, I dunno what to expect. I'd hate to
miss anything, but then again I'd hate to crash the list, too. Thoughts?
Mark D Hiatt Visit us on MSN v2!
OttoPilot_MSN@msn.com http://Forums.msn.com/Aviation
Aviation Forum Manager, AvChat Mondays 10pm Eastern
The Microsoft Network mic://Chat.msn.com/AvChat
Tailkit in box, beside computer. Waiting for garage to start building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D Hiatt" <OttoPilot_MSN(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Sales Lot |
What a terrific post, Bob! I wish I'd met Schenck--he sounds like my kind of
guy.
I learned to fly in Norfolk, Nebraska. I literally rode my bike out to the
airport and washed airplanes for lessons.
Today, I fly out of Lincoln (LNK), Nebraska, where Lindbergh learned to fly.
Nobody in town seems to know this or care, and the airport is just that big
noisy fenced-off area northwest of town. There are twelve-foot barbed-wire
fences surrounding the two FBOs, and if you park in the parking lot to watch
the airplanes, you have to look around fourteen "WARNING!" signs of one degree
or another. To their credit, nobody has ever stolen or hijacked a Cherokee
from LNK, but it's been twenty years or more since that Norman Rockwellesque
kid-at-the-airport-fence had a chance, in this town. And you have to really
want to get to the general aviation side of the field. There's a turnoff, but
it isn't marked. There isn't a sign ANYwhere on the drive to the big main
terminal that says "Airplane Rides!" or "Learn To Fly!" or "Flying Lessons!"
or anything like that. As Bob said, it's not friendly at all and it isn't
helping things.
We're supposed to set little goals, and then bigger ones. "I'm going to pound
a dozen rivets this afternoon" or "I'm going to paint those wheel pants, this
afternoon" and such. I want to fly my RV-6A to Kill Devil Hill in North
Carolina and say "Thanks" to the breezes there and I hope to fly a lot of kids
in my homebuilt airplane and maybe give one or two that spark to go on and
take lessons.
The nicest, biggest airport I've seen in years is Frederick, Maryland, home of
the AOPA and Gene and EAA524. You can drive out to your airplane and load it,
meet passengers, etc. just like in the olden days. I wish there was some way
to return to that. I haven't got a clue, myself, but I'm sure that we're
choking ourselves off at the roots by having no more kids on bikes staring up
in awe and wonder as the airplanes pass overhead at the end of the runway.
Mark D Hiatt Visit us on MSN v2!
OttoPilot_MSN@msn.com http://Forums.msn.com/Aviation
Aviation Forum Manager, AvChat Mondays 10pm Eastern
The Microsoft Network mic://Chat.msn.com/AvChat
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com On Behalf Of aol.com!Btinn(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 1997 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Sales Lot
I have always appreciated the philosophy of one of my early instructors, Ray
Schenck, at Clarinda, Iowa in the 1940's and 50's. He had a license signed by
Orville Wright and was active in aviation nearly all of his 90-some years. As
a flying farmer got ready to leave Ray's FBO office one day he said "Ray,
I'll go down and run those kids out of your hangars before I leave so you
won't have to bother with them." Three boys aged about 8-11 were moving down
his row of t-hangars, going in and looking at the planes. Ray's response was,
"You let those kids look at those airplanes as long as they want. Then send
them up here so I can buy them a soda pop. Ten years from now they are going
to be my bread and butter." As a result of this attitude Ray always had a lot
of activity around his little airport and was probably the greatest salesman
for sport and general aviation I have known.
We need more Ray Schencks in the field of aviation today rather than more
fences around our airports with signs warning that trespass violators will be
prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law-whatever that means. What a
negative welcome mat we have laid out for our potential fellow flyers! We
spend far too much time telling them what they CANNOT do in aviation and so
little telling them what they CAN do. If it costs me a fingerprint or minor
scratch on my plane to convey a message that the public is welcome to
aviation, that's a price I am most willing to pay.
My soap box is now available for rent.
Bob Tinnell - RV-6A wings coming along, fuselage still in the box.
Salem, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Small Mistake? |
gte.net!gregbrew(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I've got a Pre-Punched Empennage for a -6A. When preliminarily
> attaching
> the spar (R-602PP) to the rudder skin (R-601PP), I noticed that the
> top
> right hole on the spar flange is low by 1/8" and doesn't match the
> skin!! The rest, and the left flange match. Any other P.P. folks out
> there get this too?
Snap!
I had this on mine, bought April last year. January this year I emailed
the list and Vans about it. No-one on the list replied. Vans said not to
worry, there's no strength issues despite lack of edge distance, and
just drill another hole in the spar to match the one in the skin. See
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny1.htm for this and other rudder tips.
Their explanation was that this was due to jitter in the CNC drilling
machine, which seems very unlikely to me. My explanation is that either
the program for the CNC machine has that hole in the wrong place (in
which case every RV-6 rudder spar would be wrong) or there's a bug in
the CNC machine's computer. Whatever it is, it seems Vans hasn't fixed
it in 6 months.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Gravel vs. Wood Prop... |
Thanks in advance for any ideas on this problem.
My uncle's 6A picked up a piece of gravel with the prop. The hit is on
the backside of the prop, about 6 inches out from the flange on one
blade only. It resulted in a couple of dings in the wood. The rear of
the prop is painted black, and wood grain can now be seen through in the
two areas that were hit.
What is the necessary, required or preferred method of treating this
situation. Is it enough to seal the holes, or is further action
required?
Thanks Again,
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
"Either Raise Your Skill Level... or Lower Your Standards"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal or wood prop? |
What is the dia. and pitch of the prop?
Thanks.
aol.com!JMJN01(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I recently purchased a wonderful RV-4. It is equipped with a 150 hp Lyc with
> an Ed Sterba Wood prop. What is the general concensus out there, is the
> Seisenich metal prop better than wood in performance??? Currently at 6500'
> I'm getting 2700 RPM with 2450 maninfold pressure, about 160 mph indicated.
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
I still don't get it. The only way air (& fuel) is going to get into the
cylinders is if the pressue in the cylinders is lower than that of the
surounding air. Thus, in the intake manifold you must have a lower
pressure (vacum) than the surrounding air. The bigger the difference
(the bigger the vacum = lower pressure) the higher the flow of air &
fuel produced.
So, even if the gauge is meassuring absolute pressure, the pressure must
be lowest when the biggest flow is occuring (most power is being
produced).
Please se me straight on this.
Finn
> Another way to think of it is to consider the pressure drop
> across the throttle. If you close the throttle valve at a
> given RPM, what's going to happen to the manifold pressure?
> It's going to drop, right? Likewise, if you open the throttle
> the pressure's going to rise.
>
> Tedd McHenry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: List Traffic During Oshkosh. |
Compuserve and AOL are the big offenders when it comes to bouncing mail because
of full mailboxes. I suspect that you shouldn't have to worry too much
about unsubscribing from the List if you're gone for a week or so.
Thanks for caring...
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
>--------------
>
>It seems like we've got about one-third more traffic on the list today than we
>had a year ago. Maybe that's just my impression, though. Anyway, I'm wondering
>about going away for ten days or so and leaving things alone, as against
>cancelling the list for a week, or chancing that everything will be fine when
>I get back.
>
>I have the feeling that most of the heavy-talkers are going to be at Oshkosh
>at least part of that time, and thus without computer access and so any
>messages that are sent will wait happily for our return.
>
>On the other hand, all it takes is for someone to fill-up their mailbox and
>the bounced-message traffic could fill up some more. I know we've been warned
>by Matronics that if we do that we'll be instantly un-subscribed as soon as
>its discovered, but then again I kind of expect they'll be at Oshkosh, too!
>
>Anyone have any ideas on how things might go, this year? The Microsoft Network
>mailboxes don't (or at least haven't) fill(ed) up yet and are supposed to be
>good for a few hundred messages, but in this day of Spam and with the
>increased message traffic on the list, I dunno what to expect. I'd hate to
>miss anything, but then again I'd hate to crash the list, too. Thoughts?
>
>Mark D Hiatt Visit us on MSN v2!
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RV4 Rear Seat Vent |
Dear Listers
Posting this for an RV4 builder who is not on the list.
He has heard that there is a successful mod for rear seat vent using a
NACA duct on the underside of the wing and ducting it into the rear seat
area.
Does anyone have information or done this mod.
Vic would like enough engineering information to carry out this mod.
Thanks in advance
RV8 80274 Builder.
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
I have to disagree since the youth is our future. The younger we expose them
to aviation the better, and maybe they will be tought proper manners around
our aircraft.
My children have always been with me to Oshkosh since they were 5 or 6. They
know aircraft and respect them. THey know what it takes to put an
experimental aircraft in the air since they have helped me drill holes and
buck rivets.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Small Mistake? |
<< I've got a Pre-Punched Empennage for a -6A. When preliminarily attaching
the spar (R-602PP) to the rudder skin (R-601PP), I noticed that the top
right hole on the spar flange is low by 1/8" and doesn't match the
skin!! The rest, and the left flange match. Any other P.P. folks out
there get this too >>
We just experienced the same thing and Bill B said it was an original error
that had been fixed but had crept back into the program.
Bernie Kerr
6A wings on jigs, started Memorial Day, Hope to fly next year
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Silly question of the week |
<< Bill,
Lubricate them with a drop of oil. Any kind works, but I use 3 in 1.
Dan Morris
> completely. They are binding up inside. Can anyone suggest the best way
> to lubricate these things? WD-40? Graphite? Soak 'em in motor oil >>
We bought cleco's from Avery at this Year's S&F and when we were fitting ribs
to the spars it is interesting that we also started having sticky non
functioning one's. Our solution was to try something that had no silicones
and no oil to get in under the rivet holes and cause a later problem with the
final paint job. We used a teflon bicycle chain lubricant that dries and does
not collect dirt on the chain. It fixes the clecoes, but we do not know if it
will cause a problem later with the paint. The contents do not show any thing
that is obviously bad on the paint. The trade name is "FINISH LINE".
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal or wood prop? |
>
>I recently purchased a wonderful RV-4. It is equipped with a 150 hp Lyc with
>an Ed Sterba Wood prop. What is the general concensus out there, is the
>Seisenich metal prop better than wood in performance??? Currently at 6500'
>I'm getting 2700 RPM with 2450 maninfold pressure, about 160 mph indicated.
Your numbers look pretty good to me. Have you checked your tach for
accuracy? It seems common practice to "tune" the prop so as to turn at red
line at full throttle at 7,500-8,000 feet. The manifold pressure looks
good. Indicated airspeed is not calibrated airspeed. You could put in
several airspeed indicators and fly under the same conditions and have
different indicated readings. Readings will vary according to temps and
altitude.
I switched from a wood prop to the Sensenich. The cruise performance is
about the same but the Sensenich is turning 70 to 100 rpms slower. I think
my take off and climb is slightly better with the Sensenich and I don't have
to check torque all of the time. Also, I don't need to throttle back in
rain. Was it worth the extra cost to change? Probably not. I wasn't
completely satisfied with the wood prop, having sent it back three times to
be re-carved to increase rpms. I knew that re-pitching a metal prop has
more predictable results than re-carving a wood prop.
Should you change props? Who knows? You could better or worsen your
performance. I do feel that the airfoil is more effecient on the Sensenich.
I seemed to have to stand on the brakes a little harder at run-up with the
Sensenich than I had to with the wood prop. BTW, don't forget that the
Sensenich has a redline of 2,600 rpms which compromises take off rpms. My
take off rpms are around 2,180. Performance would be better if the engine
was turning 2,300 but then, at full throttle at altitude, I'd have to
throttle back to stay under 2,600.
If you could try someones Sensenich, your question could be answered at
little or no cost.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Arlington Airfair |
You're right. I checked the card he gave me and it reads Steve Beckham. I
wrote the below from memory; you know the memory is the second thing you
lose as you get older---I don't recall the first thing.
John
>
>John Ammeter wrote:
>>
>
>>
>> Steve _BECKHAM_ with his Mazda engined RV4 braved the rain from his
>> Oregon
>> home to the Airfair. He said the rain was the worst he has ever flown
>> through.
>>
>> Don Mingst and Bob Spencer taxied their RV6A across the field to show
>> off
>> their Chevy Vortec 4.3L engine. They expect to get the blessing of
>> the FAA
>> within the next week or two and be able to fly their aircraft.
>>
>> Next year we hope to see many of the RV-List people.
>>
>> John Ammeter
>>
>Actually John I think it was Steve Peckham(sp) not Steve Barnard
>Steve was flying Powersports rotary powered RV-4.
>
>Thanks again for the great hospitality that the Puget sound RVators
>gave each of us, it was a blast being there and seeing probably
>60 RV's and the 14 RV formation fly bys. Arlington just seems to get
>better every year. I got to put allot of faces with names from the list.
>and it was nice to meet each of you that came by and said hello.
>The barbecue was better than ever tons of great food.
>
>
>Jerry
>--
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
<33CD7C72.C16(at)ix.netcom.com>
| From: | skymike(at)juno.com (Michael E. Lynch) |
>I still don't get it. The only way air (& fuel) is going to get into
>the
>cylinders is if the pressue in the cylinders is lower than that of the
>surounding air. Thus, in the intake manifold you must have a lower
>pressure (vacum) than the surrounding air. The bigger the difference
>(the bigger the vacum = lower pressure) the higher the flow of air &
>fuel produced.
>
>So, even if the gauge is meassuring absolute pressure, the pressure
>must
>be lowest when the biggest flow is occuring (most power is being
>produced).
>
>Please se me straight on this.
Finn,
Although it is true fuel and air get into the cylinder because of the low
pressure gradient caused by the down-going cylinder, it is the manifold
absolute pressure (MAP) in the intake manifold that "pushes" the mixture
to the lower pressure area. At constant rpm and altitude, the amount of
power produced is directly related to the fuel/air flow being delivered
to the cylinder. As throttle is increased, more of the mixture flows to
the cylinders, and MAP increases.
The gauge acts as a barometer, indicating ambient air pressure when the
engine is not running. It decreases in standard conditions by about one
inch for every 1000 feet of altitude. When the engine is running, it is
a relative indicator of how much power the engine can produce at a given
altitude.
After the engine starts, it acts as a sort of "suction pump" and the MAP
drops to well less than ambient pressure. (Down to about 10" at idle) As
the throttle is opened to full, the MAP increases until the maximum of
slightly less than ambient pressure is reached (and full power
production), due to slight losses of efficiency in the engine. On the
other hand, in a turbocharged engine, this efficiency is vastly exceeded
by forcing greater than ambient pressures into the engine, causing
overall MAP to be greater at full power than before you started the
engine!
Simply stated, MAP is a relative indicator of how much power your engine
can produce at a given air density and altitude.
Mike Lynch
RV6A - Vertical Stab in the jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Spend fifty dollars for a roll bed tow truck.
You made it this far.
----------
> From: Austin Tinckler <axionet.com!tinckler(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Questions
> Date: Wednesday, July 16, 1997 8:42 AM
>
>
>
>
> ----------
> > From: Michael C. Lott <datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Questions
> > 2. I was thinking about rigging a hitch to attach the tail wheel
> > to my truck bumper for towing the fuselage to the airport. Has anyone
> > had experience with towing one down the road?
> >
>
> I have indirectly, this is how I got a great engine because the tow
flipped
> and rolled........RV great for aerobatics, but not this
> low................Austin.
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: intercoms/video cameras |
Check with Radio Shack for the parts you need.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
>
> I still don't get it. The only way air (& fuel) is going to get into
> the cylinders is if the pressue in the cylinders is lower than that of
> the surounding air. Thus, in the intake manifold you must have a
> lower pressure (vacum) than the surrounding air. The bigger the
> difference (the bigger the vacum = lower pressure) the higher the flow
> of air & fuel produced.
>
> So, even if the gauge is meassuring absolute pressure, the pressure
> must be lowest when the biggest flow is occuring (most power is
> being produced).
>
> Please se me straight on this.
You're confusing the vaccuum of the piston with the pressure in the Manifold.
Try this metaphor. Take your shop vac. The tank of the shop vac is the
cylinder. The hose is the intake manifold, and your hand over the end of the
hose is the throttle plate. If you cover the end of the hose completely,
there's very low pressure in the hose. Not very much air gets run through the
vac. If you were to put an MP gauge on the hose, it would read very low
pressure.
Engines without throttles run full out, that's why the word is "Throttle", it
strangles the engine to slow it down. The velocity of air through the system
is controlled by restriction, not the vaccuum of the piston, since it's gonna
move the same volume every stroke regardless (same volume, but lower
pressure). You've got a system with three stages and two valves seperating
them. Atmosphere > Throttle > Manifold > Intake valve > Cylinder. The
pressure drops at each stage, but with the throttle open, the drop is minimal,
and you have more air available in the manifold to be taken in.
If you take your hand off of the end of the hose, air travels freely into the
tank of the vac. The velocity of air through the hose is high, but there is
so little resistance to atmospheric air that the pressure inside the hose is
almost (But not quite) the same as the pressure outside. With less
resistance, it's possible to suck in a lot more air and fuel.
Now if you take your compressor hose and blow it into the vac hose, that's a
turbo or supercharger and the pressure inside the hose can be even greater
than the atmospheric pressure. (a turbo would be like fan driven by the
exhaust port of the vac, and a Supercharger would be like one driven by the
vac motor)
Here's another way of thinking about it. You're right in that it takes the
pressure differential between the intake manifold and the cylinder to suck
fuel/air mixture into the cylinder. With the throttle closed, the pressure in
the manifold is less, which means there's less differential between the
cylinder and the manifold and thus less ability to draw in mixture. A
theoretical perfect vaccuum in the manifold would make it impossible for the
cylinder to draw in anything.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
<33CD7C72.C16(at)ix.netcom.com>
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com (Bruce D Stobbe) |
You wrote:
>I still don't get it. The only way air (& fuel) is going to get into the
cylinders is if the pressue in the cylinders is lower than that of the
surounding air. Thus, in the intake manifold you must have a lower
pressure (vacum) than the surrounding air. The bigger the difference
(the bigger the vacum = lower pressure) the higher the flow of air &
fuel produced.<
Think of it this way instead. The pistons create a suction on the
downstroke when the intake valve is open, this lowers the local pressure
in the cylinder to something below atmospheric, which causes atmospheric
air to rush into the cylinder to even things out via the intake valve,
intake manifold, and carburetor throat. Along the way the carburetor
mixes in a little fuel as the air passes through to keep things exciting.
I know, it's called *manifold pressure*, but in a normally aspirated
engine the manifold pressure can never exceed the ambient atmospheric
pressure - most folks would probably refer to this as a vacuum instead,
since we normally relate to atmospheric pressure (lower than atmospheric
is a vacuum/higher is pressure). The only way that the manifold can be
at a higher pressure than the surrounding atmospheric pressure is if a
ram-air or blower system is used to force the air into the cylinders.
The butterfly in the carb is a controlled leak to atmospheric pressure
from the suction produced in the intake manifold by the pistons. When
the throttle is at idle the butterfly is almost fully closed and there is
only a small leak through which the air can rush in to even things out,
which results in a relatively low pressure (higher vacuum) in the intake
manifold. When the throttle is open the butterfly is open and a big air
leak is present to atmospheric pressure allowing much more air to be
sucked in (and more fuel too), which results in the manifold pressure
being closer to that of the surrounding atmosphere (lower vacuum/higher
pressure). That's why the gauge reads a higher number (closer to
atmospheric) when the throttle is fully open.
Hope this helps.
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6; N508RV (res)
Winsted, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Metal or wood prop? |
JMJN01(at)aol.com
>
>I recently purchased a wonderful RV-4. It is equipped with a 150 hp Lyc with
>an Ed Sterba Wood prop. What is the general concensus out there, is the
>Seisenich metal prop better than wood in performance??? Currently at 6500'
>I'm getting 2700 RPM with 2450 maninfold pressure, about 160 mph indicated.
>
I changed over from a 'modified' metal prop to the Sens. on my RV6. It
hurt me a little on TO(plus about 100-150 feet) and climb(minus about 150
fpm), but sure made up for it in cruise. I had the 150hp and put on a 78
pitch prop. It moved my cruise from 165 to 184 TAS at 7500-8000 feet, full
throt, about 2535 rpm with about 22-23 in. merc. The only thing, and it's
subjective, is that to me the Sens. prop is not as eye appealing as some of
the woods and the 'modified' metal that I had.
Everything is a compromise and has its' cost, doesn't it?
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Rear Seat Vent |
<< He has heard that there is a successful mod for rear seat vent using a
NACA duct on the underside of the wing and ducting it into the rear seat
area.
Does anyone have information or done this mod.
Vic would like enough engineering information to carry out this mod.
Thanks in advance
RV8 80274 Builder.
>>
I guess you could say I'm the one who discovered this use of Van's SV-kit. I
see where the same style is used on the yellow -8. I'm fairly sure the info
you want is in the archives, or email me off the list and I'll give you a
run-down.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
I have seen ads in trade-a-plane for products from ken hatfield industries
for roller rockers and camshafts. I havn't seen these adds for quite some
time though. Does anyone know anything about these products. I am currently
majoring an 10360 and am exploring all options.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
Finn,
In the abscence of any restriction within the intake manifold, you are
correct. The higher the flow the more the pressure drop.
The man. gauge measures the differential pressure drop between the
outside of the carb across the butterfly valve.!
At idle and low throttle settings there is considerable restriction to
flow caused by the butterfly valve mostly blocking the intake 'tube'.
Even at reduced rpm, there is a larger pressure drop from one side of
the valve to the other. At high settings the intake 'tube' is much less
restricted and there is much less pressure drop. The gauge will measure
nearer the static pressure.
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> I still don't get it. The only way air (& fuel) is going to get into the
> cylinders is if the pressue in the cylinders is lower than that of the
> surounding air. Thus, in the intake manifold you must have a lower
> pressure (vacum) than the surrounding air. The bigger the difference
> (the bigger the vacum = lower pressure) the higher the flow of air &
> fuel produced.
>
> So, even if the gauge is meassuring absolute pressure, the pressure must
> be lowest when the biggest flow is occuring (most power is being
> produced).
>
> Please se me straight on this.
>
> Finn
>
> > Another way to think of it is to consider the pressure drop
> > across the throttle. If you close the throttle valve at a
> > given RPM, what's going to happen to the manifold pressure?
> > It's going to drop, right? Likewise, if you open the throttle
> > the pressure's going to rise.
> >
> > Tedd McHenry
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh and EAA |
For those of you on AOL, if you go back to the January Airshow bulletin
board, under OshKosh, their was lengthy discussion with Dick Kapinski (eaa
P.R.) concerning the new admission policy. Some of your questions may be
answered there.
The daily admission will still be pretty hefty for non-members, $21 a day,
so maybe perhaps the multitudes won't descend in droves as we fear. :)
From a practical standpoint I suggest RVers' adapt a neighborhood watch
mindset.
become familar with the RV tied next to yours and its owner. If someone you
don't recognize crossses the barricade tape, politely ask if they have
permission.
RVator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
Just my take on this topic.
One beautiful spring day had I received and just started my apanage kit. I
happened to be at the field with my very supportive wife when an RV 3 flew
in for a fuel stop. I was very excited and we went out on the ramp to look
more closely. My wife ran her fingers across the horizontal stabilizer and
observed how she couldn't even feel the rivets. The pilot ran out and
cursed at her, chastising her for the violation of a protocol she didn't
even know existed. I remember feeling at the time that I was embarrassed to
be associated with a group of people that exhibited this kind of behavior,
and made a mental note that I would make it a point to never react that
way. I remember I felt that if the bird is that fragile I didn't want to
fly in it! I have since come to realize he was in a minority and that most
experimental armature builders are quite friendly, outgoing and
accommodating. I guess I think the same way when I buy a new car or
motorcycle. I somehow feel relief when I get the first ding so I don't have
to worry about it anymore. Maybe it doesn't bother me as much since I'm not
building a show plane, but I certainly know how much effort goes into the
construction.
I recently invited an acquaintance (a new fellow chapter member) over
because he wanted to see my project. He hemmed and hawed and finally
admitted he was interested in building, but didn't think he could acquire
the skills to build something safe. I asked him to join in and pound some
rivets with me. He was astounded I would ask. He said others he had
approached had denied him, saying they didn't want anyone else to work on
their project! I think we should always make every effort to include the
general public in our passion. I would think this is a lot more fun when
you share it with others.
-Gene Gottschalk
RV-6a, skinning the fuselage
N700RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
<< Now if you take your compressor hose and blow it into the vac hose, that's
a
turbo or supercharger and the pressure inside the hose can be even greater
than the atmospheric pressure. (a turbo would be like fan driven by the
exhaust port of the vac, and a Supercharger would be like one driven by the
vac motor) >>
I have not been following this discussion so my comment may be redundant. Yes
it is possible to get higher than the atmosheric pressure at the manifold
without a supercharger or turbo. If we are moving through the air, we have
the potential to capture the dynamic head pressure by slowing the air down
through a diffuser before the wide open throttle. Yes there will still be a
drop through the air system downstream of the diffuser if air is going to
flow to the cylinder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ken Hatfield |
aol.com!RVinfo(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I have seen ads in trade-a-plane for products from ken hatfield industries
> for roller rockers and camshafts. I havn't seen these adds for quite some
> time though. Does anyone know anything about these products. I am currently
> majoring an 10360 and am exploring all options.
>
> Bruce Green
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
Bruce,
I saw the rocker arms advertised in a Chief Aircraft Catalog. You might
want to check with them.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | Wanted: Piper Pitot |
Hi Gang,
Sorry for the repost of this issue, I don't have access to the archives or
I'd go there first. I'm looking for a Piper pitot tube, used of course.
Anyone have any suggestions for their favorite salvage yard. A few weeks ago
someone suggested J.T. Evans - no luck there and Wentworth. The # to
Wentworth that was posted was not in service. Any help will sure be
appreciated, feel free to respond privately.
Eric Henson
Starting the Tanks
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: airframe options |
>
>>Just got a ride in an RV6 last evening, that put the nail in the coffin.
>>Will be ordering an RV6AQ very soon. I was wondering what decisions have
>>to be made before the order? Such as speed mods from aftermarket
>>vendors, which could be deleted from order for credit. Am I right in
>>assuming I don't have to know what motor will be going in at this time?
>
>Dave,
>
>I wouldn't worry too much about speed modifications from aftermarket
>vendors. Spam cans benefit from them, but Van's did such a good job with
>the design of the RV's that there really isn't much (if any) room for
>significant improvements. There are a few products out there, wingtips for
>example, whose manufacturer has "optimistic" performance gains. Just
>build a stock RV and you will have one hell of an airplane.
>
>Scott Gesele N506RV (finishing painting and going to the airport this
Hi Scott,
I couldn't help but notice one comment above about Van doing such a good
job with the design there really is'nt much if any room for improvement.
Scott, does 30 mph gains in cruise indicate the design has little room for
improvement. I have obtained that much difference in cruise than I had
before with a RV-6A 180 hp engine and wood prop. I have done numerous
modifications and improved the airplane that much. I still have the same
gph fuel flow I had before yet cruise 30 mph faster.
If anyone who is going to Oshkosh would like to know how you can improve
your RV's speed, efficiency and range I will have N157ST on the line at
Oshkosh and will post a time at the airplane when I will field questions
and also remove the cowling for a look-see.
I hope that Dave reads this and I know Scott will and after all is said
and done we all will have a little more insight on a good airplane that can
be better.
P.S. Mark Frederick, I was 8 mph slower than a stock "Rocket" at the
Jackpot Race.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm looking for flight tests, reviews, etc. of the RV-6. I assume that
>a few should have been done by now, by magazines such as Sport Aviation,
>Kitplanes, etc.
Hi Jon,
You will find an RV-6A Aircraft Performance Report done by the CAFE
Foundation in Sport Aviation of September of 1993, page 34. I am intimate
with this report because it was my airplane they tested. There is also an
Aerodynamic Analysis of the same airplane using VSaero computer software
which is in the April 1997 issue of Sport Aviation page 50. Hope this
helps and if I can give you any assistance please feel free to call or
write. I will be attending Oshkosh and will arrive on Thursday. This
particular airplane will be on display and I will field questions and
remove the "Holy Cowl" to field questions on that and anything else you may
have questions on.
Also I will post a short note on the Jackpot, Nevada airplane race that
was held in which we had a total of 8 RV's participate. I'll give the
details and speeds soon on the RV-list. Does anybody want to know how fast
they go, stay tuned.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fritz <Qmax1(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | research info on RV's |
This is an open request to whoever it was that I promised to fax some
magazine articles.
I LOST THE DAMN ADDRESS ON THE WAY TO WORK!!!!
pleeeeeese resend :>(
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)op.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
<199707141626.LAA22928(at)ns.tuelectric.com>
>
>
>
>In reply to the concerns about the general public mingling with aircraft.
>One way to possibly suggest that they be careful of the planes is to deny
>children under a certain age (8 yrs?) permission to be on the flight line
>even if with adults. Anybody for this idea?
>Bruce
>Starting RV6A after Osh.
Bruce,
How will we instill an interest in aviation in the children and their
parents if we prohibit them from the flight line? You don't want to keep
people away. You just want to keep people from damaging your aircraft. I
don't have a show aircraft but I did have a show car. So, I know the
apprehension you may have with others pawing at your aircraft. I think the
EAA will have to do some hard and quick work and prepare an abundance of
signage at the gates and maybe at the ends of all or many of the rows of
aircraft. These signs must state the rules of etiquette to be used when
approaching and examining someone else's aircraft. We were all young once
and had to learn to "Be Careful".
I hope Dick Knapinski can convince the gang at EAA to spend some time and
$$$ for something that doesn't have a return of $$$ attached to it.(Sorry
Dick, I couldn't pass up the target of opportunity.)
Sincerely,
Lou Willig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing Kit Shipping Info. |
Hello listers:
I came home tonight to find a message on my answering machine from Roadway
Express. My wing kit is in town and will be delivered tomorrow afternoon.
:-)
For anyone who's ever wondered how long, how much, etc., here's my info.:
I ordered the wing kit about the middle of May. Van's told me it shipped on
Monday, July 14. Roadway called me today (July 17) to say that it's in
town. The kit consists of 2 boxes. 1 is 200lbs. and the other is 195lbs.
Total shipping cost delivered to my door is $152.31. The local Roadway rep.
I spoke to this afternoon said that their driver will help me unload it.
Loveland, Colorado located along the eastern foothills of the Colorado
Rocky Mountains about 50 miles north of Denver.
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033 (Wings delivered tomorrow, drilling stiffners on the rudder
tonight)
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
To fellow builders in the Atlanta area:
I will be in Atlanta on business Friday, July 25th. I'm staying over the
weekend on the north side to play some golf. If possible, I'd like to meet
with someone
who would like to show me their RV-6 or 6a project (or a completed airplane).
I'm building a -6 and I'm putting the finishing touches on the fuselage. I'm
particularly interested in finished airplanes or ones where you're running the
plumbing for the firewall and/or instrument panel wiring (I have lots of
questions).
I don't know my complete schedule on Saturday and Sunday because my buddies
down there
are putting together the golf plans, but I'm sure to have time in the
afternoons or evenings.
Please respond to me off list at rpflanze(at)iquest.net to make some arraingements.
Thanks.
Randy J. Pflanzer
(Indianapolis, RV-6, finishing fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
Richard Chandler wrote:
> > I still don't get it. The only way air (& fuel) is going to get into
> > the cylinders is if the pressue in the cylinders is lower than that of
> > the surounding air.
>
> You're confusing the vaccuum of the piston with the pressure in the Manifold.
> Try this metaphor. Take your shop vac. The tank of the shop vac is the...
EXCELLENT explanation!
I was thinking about how to explain this one and was about to reply when
I found your reply, Richard. You did much better than I was about to. If
you're not a teacher, you should be.
Scott
N4ZW -CFI/A&P yadeyadeya...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Piper Pitot |
Eric,
You might try Surprise Valley Aviation in Cedarville, Ca (Northeastern Ca) 916
279-2111
Paul Osterman
RV6A jigging fuselage
Anderson, Ca
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Henson, Eric
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 1997 6:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wanted: Piper Pitot
(Henson, Eric)
Hi Gang,
Sorry for the repost of this issue, I don't have access to the archives or
I'd go there first. I'm looking for a Piper pitot tube, used of course.
Anyone have any suggestions for their favorite salvage yard. A few weeks ago
someone suggested J.T. Evans - no luck there and Wentworth. The # to
Wentworth that was posted was not in service. Any help will sure be
appreciated, feel free to respond privately.
Eric Henson
Starting the Tanks
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Piper Pitot |
>I'm looking for a Piper pitot tube, used of course.
>Anyone have any suggestions for their favorite salvage yard.
Eric; you may want to try Air Salvage of Dallas, Lancaster TX tel #
800-336-6399 or Bobby's Planes 'N Parts at Weatherford TX tel# 817-682-4220
(the 817 may have changed to 254, or is maybe about to). I've bought from
both and had no problems with them.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
I just installed the landing light in the right wing leading edge(the kit
from Van's). Does anyone feel the need for a second landing light in the
left wing? Most GA aircraft about this size do fine with one. I'm open
for suggestions.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Costello <bcos(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
Jim Cimino wrote:
>
>
> I just installed the landing light in the right wing leading edge(the kit
> from Van's). Does anyone feel the need for a second landing light in the
> left wing? Most GA aircraft about this size do fine with one. I'm open
> for suggestions.
>
> Jim Cimino
Those who have installed 2, focus one closer in and the other further
out,
for taxiing and landing. In congested areas it also gives you one more
light by which to be seen. I am going to install 2 with a switchable
flashing capability -- see and be seen.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Want an extra hour and a half of energy per day with Super Blue
Green products? Email for info or call 800-325-7544 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
Jim Cimino wrote:
>
> I just installed the landing light in the right wing leading edge(the kit
> from Van's). Does anyone feel the need for a second landing light in the
> left wing? Most GA aircraft about this size do fine with one. I'm open
> for suggestions.
One is all you need for landing, but some folks have installed a second
light in the other wing for taxiing. This is my plan.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airframe options |
<< P.S. Mark Frederick, I was 8 mph slower than a stock "Rocket" at the
Jackpot Race.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components >>
OK- what are the numbers? Hmmmm- I wonder if we can get a flight in at OSH,
as your statement sounds a lot like throwing down the gauntlet.....?
Check six! (if you're faster, that's where I'll be!)
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert.R.F.Ziegler(at)scbvpno.simis.com |
| Subject: | airframe options |
Importance: normal
Autoforwarded: false
>>>>>>>>>I still have the same
gph fuel flow I had before yet cruise 30 mph faster.
If anyone who is going to Oshkosh
Steve,
some of us are unfortunately too far away this time of the year to go. Could
you post perhaps a description of what you did and the sources of the parts here
on the list?
Thanks
Robert (in Congo, Africa)
Flying STOL701, starting RV-6A quick build after summer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Miertschin <mark(at)compassnet.com> |
Please remove from your mass e-mail list. I have
received more than 500 messages in the past four days.
I would like this to stop very soon.
Thank You.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: airframe options |
>Hi Scott,
>
> I couldn't help but notice one comment above about Van doing such a good
>job with the design there really is'nt much if any room for improvement.
>Scott, does 30 mph gains in cruise indicate the design has little room for
>improvement. I have obtained that much difference in cruise than I had
>before with a RV-6A 180 hp engine and wood prop. I have done numerous
>modifications and improved the airplane that much. I still have the same
>gph fuel flow I had before yet cruise 30 mph faster.
>
> If anyone who is going to Oshkosh would like to know how you can improve
>your RV's speed, efficiency and range I will have N157ST on the line at
>Oshkosh and will post a time at the airplane when I will field questions
>and also remove the cowling for a look-see.
>
> I hope that Dave reads this and I know Scott will and after all is said
>and done we all will have a little more insight on a good airplane that can
>be better.
>
>P.S. Mark Frederick, I was 8 mph slower than a stock "Rocket" at the
>Jackpot Race.
>
>Respectfully,
>
>Steve Barnard
>Barnard Aircraft Components
>RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
>steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
>http://www.barnardaircraft.com
>
>
Steve,
Exactly what do you attribute your increase in performance from? A vague
reply leaves a whole bunch to the imagination. If any of your gains came
from a different engine/prop combo, we all know that a 180 C/S will
outperform a 150 mis-matched wood prop RV. Granted, your not running a C/S
prop, but a wood prop pitched to what a C/S would be at in cruise would
produce similar results. I understand that you are now producing a
beautiful cowl. Exactly how much gain can you attribute to that? Also, as
I understand, your cowl has a lot of work already done on it compared to
Van's. The prospective builder who started this thread indicated that he is
about to start on a quickbuild. Is it possible that your cowl on a
quickbuild would technically violate the 51% rule?
The prospective builder wanted to know what aftermarket options are
available to increase performance. Without modifying structure (almost
impossible with a quickbuild anyway), the builder is left with the following
components: cowl, wheel pants, wing tips and wing root fairings. All of
these can be changed at a later date. We can increase performance in other
ways. Antennas can be installed internally, build the plane straight, keep
the weight down, etc. These are decisions to be made during construction,
not prior to ordering the kit.
I have yet to see verified performance data on the aftermarket components
that are starting to show up. It has been said on this list that a
particular aftermarket wing tip only increased performance by 2 kts, not the
8-10 that was advertised. Your cowl sounds real interesting. I'm looking
forward to seeing REAL data on just how much gains are achieved by this cowl
alone. In the mean time, I'm standing by my original statement, "Van's did
such a good job designing this plane that there isn't much room for
improvement." Note, I didn't say there was NO room for improvement.
Decisions made during construction will have the greatest effect on final
performance. Bottom line: Build it straight, stock and in accordance with
the plans any you will end up with one heck of an airplane.
Hope this clears up any confusions.
Scott Gesele N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
ix.netcom.com!bcos(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Those who have installed 2, focus one closer in and the other further
> out,
> for taxiing and landing. In congested areas it also gives you one more
> light by which to be seen. I am going to install 2 with a switchable
> flashing capability -- see and be seen.
Me too, for the same reasons. Also, landing lights seem to have a low
MTBF. Having two means you've got some redundancy. My plan is to use the
small 12V 50W halogen lights designed for track lighting in houses, one
in each wingtip. They're cheap and available (NZ$7.15 at my local
hardware shop).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Jim, I found that it is pretty challenging to taxi around an unfamiliar
airport at night without a landing/taxi light. So I will be adding an extra
light to my current RV-6A project simply for the redundancy of it. I also
found that the 100 watt lamps don't last near as long as the 60 watt standard
(which are adequate) as supplied with the Duckworks kits.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jim Cimino
Sent: Friday, July 18, 1997 12:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Landing Light
I just installed the landing light in the right wing leading edge(the kit
from Van's). Does anyone feel the need for a second landing light in the
left wing? Most GA aircraft about this size do fine with one. I'm open
for suggestions.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Attn: Barnard Aircraft Components, Inc. |
Dear Barnard Aircraft Components:
Sorry to bother the whole list, but your e-mail address came back marked
"undeliverable." Besides, your answer might be of interest to other
RV-listers.
What plans, if any, do you have to develop speed mods for the RV-8?
And, if you do, when do you expect them to become available?
Thanks.
--Don McNamara
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Piper Pitot |
I got mine from J.T. Evans Aircraft Sales 1-800-421-1729 or 407-843-4547
Ross Mickey
rmickey@ix,netcom.com
----------
> From: Henson, Eric
> To: 'rv-list'
> Subject: RV-List: Wanted: Piper Pitot
> Date: Thursday, July 17, 1997 6:20 AM
>
RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric)
>
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> Sorry for the repost of this issue, I don't have access to the archives
or
> I'd go there first. I'm looking for a Piper pitot tube, used of course.
> Anyone have any suggestions for their favorite salvage yard. A few weeks
ago
> someone suggested J.T. Evans - no luck there and Wentworth. The # to
> Wentworth that was posted was not in service. Any help will sure be
> appreciated, feel free to respond privately.
>
> Eric Henson
> Starting the Tanks
> ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
>from Van's). Does anyone feel the need for a second landing light in the
>left wing? Most GA aircraft about this size do fine with one. I'm open
>for suggestions.
>Jim Cimino
Jim (and other interested listers):
I've got a Van's light that I can sell at discount, new in box, if you
decide to go the second light route. Also the stainless pitot tube, and I'm
looking to swap a no-tail-light rudder fairing for lighted version.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Project for sale |
No, not mine .
I just became aware of a Super Cavalier project for sale. Brand new IO-360,
new C/S prop, and new full IFR Collins Microline panel. Asking price
$25K...shame to scrap the plane but the rest sounds like a great deal for
RV-8 builders here.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
Yes, Steve, tell us how fast the RVs go. I have a friend who is a backwards
plastic airplane driver in such shows as Jackpot who commented that there
were enough RVs this year to have their own heat. In fact, he said that there
were so many contestants that the last heats of the day were flown in such
rough air that it made shoulder harness almost mandatory to even stay inside
the airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil cooler question |
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)cctrap.com> |
I know there has been much discussion on this list regarding oil coolers,
and I have been able to locate most of the info I need from the
archives,, such as which port is which for plumbing the oil cooler lines.
But I have a question,,
Which port is which on Vans oil cooler?? Is it better to set up the flow
to fill the cooler from bottom to top?? Or visa versa? This may seem like
a silly question to most of you,, but I am curious as to the accepted
method.
Thanks in advance,,,
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)cctrap.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hrschbrg(at)ix.netcom.com (Barry & Shelly Hirschberg) |
| Subject: | RV-6, partially completed, for sale |
Due to time constraints and the final realization that I will not be able
to complete my RV-6 within the next few years, mine is now for sale.
Empennage is complete except glass portion. Wing spars are finished as
well as most of right wing. I live just south of San Francisco and so does
the kit for now. Send your offer. Please respond directly to me via
e-mail as I do not check the RV-list mail regularly.
Barry Hirschberg
hrschbrg(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airframe options |
<< I couldn't help but notice one comment above about Van doing such a good
job with the design there really is'nt much if any room for improvement.
Scott, does 30 mph gains in cruise indicate the design has little room for
improvement. I have obtained that much difference in cruise than I had
before with a RV-6A 180 hp engine and wood prop >>
Steve,
I worked for a major jet engine manufacturer for 33 years as an aero engineer
and when any one quoted numbers that were REAL good, they were usually
referred to as "fan-tastic". 30 mph increase over a well done 180 hp RV-6A is
something I would give my eyeteeth for. I will be at O-K and look forward to
hearing and seeing what you did.
Bernie Kerr
RV-6A all wing spars riveted, mounting spars and ribs to jig. Did not buy
stock wheel pants or tips. Maybe made a mistake buying cowling. Hope to fly
next year
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Jackpot Race results |
This post covers the Jackpot, Nevada R.A.C.E. results. This race is
sponsored by Rutan and Composite enthusiasts. They have numerous races for
experimental aircraft throughout the year. All airplanes are welcome.
This particular race was held in Jackpot, Nevada which is at the northwest
corner of Nevada near the Utah and Idaho border and was held on the July
4th weekend.
These particular races have been held for about 20 to 25 years so it's not
new.
The race is approximately 125 statute miles with a race altitude of 7500
ft. with 2 turns in the race. The density altitude was about 9500 ft.
There was 4 heat races with the RV-Class consisting of 8 aircraft, 2 Harmon
Rockets, 3 RV 4's, 2 RV-6's and a RV-6A.
It is an air start with a pace plane similar to Reno air races except we
start in a straight and level condition. Equal amounts of planes on each
side of the pace plane. Go the 125 miles and 2 turns and see who comes
back first.
The results of the RV class and Super Rv class for Rockets were as follows:
Super RV
Mark Sponsler Harmon Rocket IO-540 239.13 mph
Gary Rudolph Harmon Rocket IO-540 226.13 mph
RV
Dave Anders RV-4 IO-360 236.42 mph
Steve Barnard RV-6A IO-360 217.50
Tracy Saylor RV-6 0-360 212.30
Ken Brock RV-4 IO-320 202.00
Mike Marker RV-4 0-360 200.78
Steve Colwell RV-6 0-360 191.92
These speeds were off of last years speeds by approximately 5 mph low
because of windy conditions
A Glasair 111 ran 269.56 mph
A Berkut with a IO-540 ran 252.53 mph
Top Long-EZ ran 222.31 running in the Super Stock class 0-320
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: airframe options |
I knew that would get your attention Mark. If you notice I said I was
slower. I will post the race results in another message labeled Jackpot
Race results. In that I will list real numbers of 8 RV's that ran their
own heat race, pretty neat stuff and just a ball to participate in. Tell
you all about the course etc. Then you can phone John H. with the results
but he may already know.
And hey really do check your six, I'm coming up behind you when you least
expect it. Rat a tat, tat.
>
>
><< P.S. Mark Frederick, I was 8 mph slower than a stock "Rocket" at the
> Jackpot Race.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Steve Barnard
> Barnard Aircraft Components >>
>
>OK- what are the numbers? Hmmmm- I wonder if we can get a flight in at OSH,
>as your statement sounds a lot like throwing down the gauntlet.....?
>
>Check six! (if you're faster, that's where I'll be!)
>Mark
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
You wrote:
>
>
>I just installed the landing light in the right wing leading edge(the
kit
>from Van's). Does anyone feel the need for a second landing light in
the
>left wing? Most GA aircraft about this size do fine with one. I'm
open
>for suggestions.
>
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 sn 80039
>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
>(717)842-4057
>
>
Hi Jim,
I opted for two myself. Two basic reasons - if you have one burn out,
you have a spare, and second, one can be aimed to illuminate the runway
length in the stalled attitude just before touchdown, and the other can
be aimed to shine down the length of the runway in the level flight
attitude.
How did the installation go?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
> Richard Chandler wrote:
> > You're confusing the vaccuum of the piston with the pressure in
> > the Manifold. Try this metaphor. Take your shop vac. The tank of
> > the shop vac is the...
>
> EXCELLENT explanation!
Thank you.
> I was thinking about how to explain this one and was about to reply when
> I found your reply, Richard. You did much better than I was about to.
> If you're not a teacher, you should be.
What?! Then I'd _NEVER_ be able to afford to build an RV. :-)
(As it is, I had a big setback when I had to close out my last student loan in
order to stop the loan company from ripping me off any more. I now have 7K on
a credit card (Which still has an introductory rate, thank goodness.) Ever
had late fees added to your principal with no notification? It really sucks.)
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)theharddrive.net> |
| Subject: | Ride wanted to Oshkosh from Denver area |
Is anybody going to Oshkosh (flying or driving) who will be departing fro=
m, or passing through the Denver area? If so, do you have room for one =
person for the trip out. (Just one way, please)
Please call me at 970 887-2207 (days) or 970 887-2194 (eves) or respond =
back to this address. Obviously, I am glad to share the driving/flying =
and fuel expenses.
Thanks,
Andy Gold
RV-6A N-5060 (first flight last week)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Wally Olsen Gone |
Hey Gang,
If any of you know Wally, you will want to know that he slipped the
surly bonds of earth for the last time yesterday. I'm one of thousands
who can say that he was the first instructor I had and I'm one of
thousands who will really miss the old cuss. What a legend! When I get
more time I'll try to post a story or two about him here. Fair skies,
Wally.
DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
Over 12 years ago (!) I bought S/N 1187 for an RV-4. I actually started
construction in 1988. After a decade of actual building I have my
inspection scheduled with a DER for next Friday. Gonna spend the weekend
finishing up a few odds and ends (placard panel, weight and balance, etc.).
Before you ask why it took so long I will just say - there was a lot of
other things going on and I moved three times in the middle of the process.
Also, divorce lawyers tend to eat up extra cash faster than airplane
projects. Enough about that.
Anyway, I've had it on the gear in fast taxi mode and it tracks true and
handles great on the ground.
So, if all goes to according to plan (and not much has in the last 10 years
so I'm prepared for anything) N144KT (that's ONE - 4 FOR Katie [daughter])
will be airborne about the time a lot of you make the pilgrimage to OSH to
celebrate the birth of the species.
I'll keep the list posted and for you builders out there - NO it should NOT
take anywhere near that long but I STILL think it is worth it....
Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
PS - RVer's in the DC area - its at Manassas, Hanger 4 West Side
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Jackpot Race results |
Steve,
Many thanks for the Jackpot race results. I would be very interested in
your opinions (and others) as to the reasons for the LARGE speed
differences between RVs with 'similar' engines. Are we talking some
serious "real HP" differences due to engine mods/prop issues, or are we
talking about aerodynamic differences being responsible for the majority
of variance in these numbers. I have to believe that power is playing a
large role here since I am assuming all RVs entered were fairly clean.
grant-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rick Jorgensen" <rpjorgen(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6, partially completed, for sale |
i'm interested. I live in davis, ca.
how much is the kit?
are you selling any tools?
thanks for the info
----------
> Hirschberg)
>
> Due to time constraints and the final realization that I will not be =
able
> to complete my RV-6 within the next few years, mine is now for sale.
> Empennage is complete except glass portion. Wing spars are finished =
as
> well as most of right wing. I live just south of San Francisco and so =
does
> the kit for now. Send your offer. Please respond directly to me via
> e-mail as I do not check the RV-list mail regularly.
>
> Barry Hirschberg
> hrschbrg(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
>
>
> +-- =
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.c=
om |
> | --- =
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request@matronics=
.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or sub=
ject. |
> +-- =
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
| From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
> Does anyone feel the need for a second landing light in the left wing?
Most GA >aircraft about this size do fine with one. I'm open for
suggestions.
>
I installed the Bob Olds landing light kit: one 130W halogen high/low
beam automotive headlight in each wing. Having an extra light for
redundancy is a wise practice. A friend of mine lost the only landing
light in his Citabria while landing at a VERY dark unfamiliar country
airstrip on a moonless night. The next morning we discovered hills and
tall trees on both ends that we never saw the night before. He made it
all right, but it was no fun.
The Bob Olds kit allows both lamps to operate as either taxi or landing
lights (or even both at the same time, depending on how you wire them.)
I saw them in operation on a friend's RV-4 at night, and the amount of
illumination was impressive. After the experience noted above, I decided
it is hard to have too much light.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Hi all,
What a show!
I took a friend who I think ought to build an RV. We arrived Saturday - almost
noon by the time the Cessna in front of us got his wheel out of the hole in the
grass. We moved immediately to the picnic and were greeted by 14 RVs taxiing
past us. Then a fly by. Then a wonderful picnic lunch!
I got a real good look at the Chevy V-6 installation which was very tidy. I
asked Van what he thought of it and he said, "I haven't had time to take a look
at it".
I saw but never did get over to the retractable. I don't really want another
headache tho they are sexy! We flew home right after the show.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
Hi all,
Am I beating a dead horse or what?
Manifold pressure gauges measure the same thing that the automotive vacuum
gauges measure. They display it differently. MP is just the air pressure in
inches of mercury in the intake manifold. The vac gauge is set to zero on a
standard day and displays the difference.
Engines develop power in proportion to four parameters:
P Pressure on the top of the piston (brake mean effective pressure - BMEP)
the average pressure - alter by changing compression ratio etc
L Length of stroke - alter with a change of crankshaft and more
A Area of the cylinder bores - (not actually piston surface!) - rebore oversize
N Number of revolutions per minute - alter with cam and breathing changes
In the car, if you suddenly give it full throttle while at low speed but in high
gear the manifold vacuum drops a few inches. If you subtract this from
atmospheric pressure, you get manifold pressure. So if it is a 29.92 standard
day and the vacuum drops to 4.0 inches, the manifold pressure is 29.92 - 4.0 or
about 26 inches. But the engine is turning out very little power because "N"
(RPMs) is so low. Back off a little on the throttle but shift (if you've never
shifted before, ask some old fart) into the appropriate gear. You will probably
get a lower manifold pressure but higher "N" so you will be putting out more
power. Power is proportional to PLAN.
The constant speed prop is like an automatic transmission, sorta. You set the
RPM desired and the prop changes pitch to allow it. In climb, the pitch is
flatter so that the prop is at a lower angle of attack and the engine can rev up
to produce high power. If the engine produces it's maximum horsepower at 2500
rpm and is redlined at 2600 rpm, what rpm will give the best rate of climb?
I heard that 1800 rpm is a more efficient prop speed so why do we run at 2500?
So Honda has an engine and the prop is driven at 1700 or so rpm.?
I worked this out when I bought my Debonair five years ago.. I set the RPM to
2500 and the MP to 25" on takeoff from SJC. I try to keep it there, but alas,
the MP soon starts to drop even with the knob all the way in. At 10,000 the
atmospheric pressure is down about 19 or 20 inches so I can't do better than
that without turbo.
I've had flight instructors say, "Just set it like the book says".
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wally Olsen Gone |
>
>Hey Gang,
>
>If any of you know Wally, you will want to know that he slipped the
>surly bonds of earth for the last time yesterday. I'm one of thousands
>who can say that he was the first instructor I had and I'm one of
>thousands who will really miss the old cuss. What a legend! When I get
>more time I'll try to post a story or two about him here. Fair skies,
>Wally.
>
>DJ
>
>
I learned to fly at Wally's Evergreen Field. It took a while to realize
that it wasn't typical to simply shake hands, climb into a 50 yr. old
t-craft and start your first lesson. I soloed in N96202, probably the
millionth PIC since Lindbergh rented that very plane.
"yup, the T-craft is a good plane", he'd say, "got a good wing,
yessir, got a good wing".
would be the thing to do. That plane would last him his whole life"
Our world is in constant change. When someone like Wally holds it back for
a while we get a precious glimpse of our past and the wisdom of another
generation. kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacquelyn eastburn" <jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I hope the rest of the list will allow us these words about Wally, you see
the northwest has just lost an icon in general aviation. thousands of us
flew with Wally including myself. my son soloed with Wally in t-craft
96202. both of us racked up many hours in Wallys t-crafts and champ. they
sometimes looked like hell, but you always felt safe and comfortable
knowing you were flying one of Wally's airplanes. like Kevin said in a post
before me, Wally also told me that if you wanted a good airplane, build
yourself one. I asked, how about an RV? yeah yeah he said "can't go wrong
with an RV". I doubt that I will ever meet a man who knows more about
flying, not talking about gizmos, just flying. thanks Wally, you did a good
job here. jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net
Hillsboro Oregon
RV - 8 Ser. No. 80079
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler question |
<< Which port is which on Vans oil cooler?? Is it better to set up the flow
to fill the cooler from bottom to top?? Or visa versa?>>
IMO the lower 3/8"NPT output port from the acc case (pressure side) should go
to the bottom port of the cooler to fill from the bottom up, otherwise you
are fighting father physics. If you have a Lyc type spin-on oil filter
adapter, you will need to have a 45 degree end on this hose. The output
(top) port of the cooler returns to the top 3/8"NPT on the acc case.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing Kit Arrives |
Hello all:
Roadway delivered my wing kit today. It's amazing how much stuff is crammed
into two relatively small boxes. I haven't pulled the skins out of the flat
box yet, but nothing in the long skinny box or the top part of the flat box
was damaged. I'm not looking forward to inventorying it all. There are
quite few things in there that I don't recognize. One thing I _did_ notice
is that they sent a piece of channel labeled for another HS-614. How'd they
know I was into building that part over and over! I could have used that
freebie a year ago when I first screwed that part up. :-)
For any of you who haven't seen the new RV-8 spars, they're worth a look.
It's too bad there isn't a way to put a clear skin on those wings. The spar
is nothing short of a work of art.
I'm finally into working on my project every night. I'm even turning down
opportunities to go fly in favor of building on the airplane. I can't
believe how much I really enjoy the building process. It's easy for me to
see why people end up building more than one of these things.
Keep building.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033, Drilled 1/2 the rudder stiffners tonight. Other half plus
priming & riveting tomorrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Are there any builders of RV6QB in Central Ore?
Near Bend or Sunriver.
Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
6A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
I understand that we airplane people need to be inclusive were the general
public is concerned. Future pilots and an informed public are a good cause. I
am all for this as long as they are not standing on top of my airplane. Some
of you guys probably have large incomes and money to burn. When one is gone
you can just buy another. I, however, must save for months and years to
produce a finished product not to mention the large investment in time. If
the EAA . is going to let the public into our fly-in then they should
shoulder some responsibility for monitoring their guests and offer financial
restitution when damage is done. Apparently the EAA has the funds to buy fuel
for some performers and airshow a\c so they will continue to come each year
and make the affair a success---- so what is going to happen if fewer and
fewer homebuilts show up due to the real and\or imagined potential for damage
to our a\c. If an a\c is damaged by non-aviation guests then maybe the EAA
should carry some of the repair burden. However storms and acts of God are
probably more danger and the EAA cannot be responsible for such things.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Progess Report |
>
>I'll keep the list posted and for you builders out there - NO it should NOT
>take anywhere near that long but I STILL think it is worth it....
>
>
>Richard Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT
Good to hear some progress. Congradulations Richard. That has to
feel great.
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
> > If you're not a teacher, you should be.
>
> What?! Then I'd _NEVER_ be able to afford to build an RV. :-)
>
I now have 7K on
> a credit card (Which still has an introductory rate, thank goodness.)
> Richard Chandler
> RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
-Know how you feel. I'm a 30 yr old general aviation/Bell helicopter
mech. In case you don't know, GA mechs don't get rich fast (we're one
notch above flight instructors). My progress has been slowed
considerably by the need to work a lot to pay the parts bills (I've
become a master of the introductory card rate). However, I must say that
after several years in & around the industry (EAA since '82) I feel that
the RV series has everyone beat hands down in the value department (not
to mention looks and performance) If it weren't for this and a few lucky
breaks, I'd be fortunate to be building an ultralight.
Scott
N4ZW -1/2 painting done and almost ready to put all the big pieces
together. 2 months? 6 mo? a year?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Landing Light and For Sale Repost |
Listers,
Sorry if this turns out to be a re-post, but my original messages sent over
24 hours ago have not shown up on the list, so I thought I'd try again.
Regarding the second landing light, I have a new in box Van's unit for sale
at discount. Also a stainless pitot tube, and looking to swap a
no-light-rudder fairing for lighted version.
I have also become aware of a Super Cavalier project for sale, brand new
IO-360, new C/S prop, and new IFR Collins Microline panel. For $25K total
it would be a great deal for the RV-8 builders here...if interested please
e-mail back privately (I possibly want the aiframe and panel).
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
>Also, landing lights seem to have a low MTBF.
Ok.....I should know this......I'm a pilot and builder......should know
these abbreviations......feeling kinda stupid for not knowing......letsee,
here.....extrapolate.....BF: between or before failure. Yeah, that's gotta
be it. Ok: MT .....mean time.....uh....yeah, something like that.....that's
the idea, anyway.....
Cool. Another abbreviation I can use. ;>)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light and For Sale Repost |
>
> and looking to swap a
>no-light-rudder fairing for lighted version.
>
Call Vans, they offered to swap mine if I sent it back to them
Regards
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure |
This discussion could well have happened in my physics classes. I was glad to
see someone get around to explaining why a gas moves from one place to
another. Instead of using the concept of "suction" to "pull" gas into the
cylinder it is better to think of it as being "pushed" into the cylinder by
the higher pressure of the gas in the manifold. The gas is also "pushed" into
the manifold by the higher pressure yet of the atmosphere on the outside of
the carburetor. This pressure can also be further augmented by a turbo or
supercharger to mechanically force even more air into the manifold. The air
(a gas) is constantly flowing from areas of higher pressure to those of lower
pressure. It does this everywhere in nature. Look at weather systems of high
and low pressure areas, deflating balloons, etc. We refer to this as a law of
thermodynamics, but there is nothing mysterious about it.
There are also several scales or methods to use to measure these pressures.
Probably the most meaningful one to use in this application is to measure the
ABSOLUTE pressure of the gases using some convenient scale. Atmospheric
pressures are usually measured in millimeters of mercury (mm Hg) using a
manometer or barometer. (We could also have used lb/sq in, Nt/m^2, etc.)
In some of this discussion it appears that someone was using what we
sometimes call "gage" pressure, which is simply the difference between
atmospheric pressure and the pressure in a container. This pressure can be
either positive or negative-greater or less than atmospheric pressure. This
is what we usually use to measure tire pressure. A GAGE pressure of 30
lb/in^2 would be equivalent to an ABSOLUTE pressure of the atmosphere (~ 14.7
lb/in^2) plus 30 lb/ in^2 for a total of 44.7 lb/in^2.
Since the manifold pressure typically will run at an absolute pressure of
something less than atmospheric pressure, it would have a gage pressure that
would be negative - what we sometimes refer to as a "vacuum"- if we were
measuring it with an ordinary pressure gage. If a tire had an absolute
pressure of 10 lb/in^2 inside then a gage would read -4.7 lb/ in^2. It still
has air in it (although less than the same volume of atmosphere would have)
but I will guarantee you that sucker will still be "flat" when you take your
car or plane off the jacks. (I know - "on the bottom side only.") The only
problem with this is that you would have to use a"vacuum pump" on that tire
to achieve such a pressure. You can't get it with something as simple as a
nail.
There are other ways of explaining this phenomenon and several have been used
in the discussion to date - most quite valid. If I were to explain it to my
physics students, however, I think the approach I used above would be
understood by the largest number of students.
I can relate to the teaching salary problem. I learned to fly in the late
1940s and early 50s, attended college and graduate school. I was able to do
some flying all that time and when I was first married even after starting my
career as a physics/physical science teacher. After the boys were born,
however, the flying stopped for about 25 years. It was too expensive even in
1970s dollars. I have been active again for about 4-5 years and am now
retired. I can afford to fly some now as a club member in a C-172 and Grumman
Cheetah but it still is out of the question to buy a plane outright. That is
why I'm building my RV-6A. As long as I can keep my medical I think this will
give me the most bang for the flying buck. Thirty six years of teaching was
rewarding, but not financially.
(Sure am glad I didn't go ahead and put my money down on one of the Idaho
Rotax cages that you cover with bedsheets and strap on your buttocks.)
Class dismissed for today. Sorry for the long dissertation.
Bob Tinnell
Salem, OR
RV-6A Wings pretty well along/Fuselage in the box.
________________________________________________________________________________
I dont know anyone in Sunriver or bend who is building a QB but ther may very
well be several there. I do know of a few in the Albany, Corvallis, and Salem
area, however.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <RNuckolls(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | New E-Mail address . . . |
rv-list
I think I'll be closing my CIS account in a few weeks. Suggest
that everyone with an interest change their address books for
us to send mail via our website at www.aeroelectric.com
I've shut off the list server activity until after OSH . . .
too many things to do to get ready. Will sign up again after
OSH with the new address. In the mean time, will try to answer
mail to the website. Check out our new website, we've been able
to spend some time on it the past two weeks and we've hired some
help. It will be changing almost daily for the next several months.
Come see us at OSH! My OSH schedule published on the website.
Regards,
Bob . . . =
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DoOOo=3D(_)=3DoOOo=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
http://www.aeroelectric.com
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing Kit Arrives |
Rod:
Your note said: " One thing I _did_ notice
is that they sent a piece of channel labeled for another HS-614.
How'd they
know I was into building that part over and over! I could have used
that
freebie a year ago when I first screwed that part up. :-)".
That "freebie" angle is required to make the seat brackets on the
center section assembly. Don't throw it away or make a Christmas
tree stand out of it! Have fun as you finish the empennage and
plunge into the wings.
George
RV-8 SN 80006.
Fuel tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)theharddrive.net> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
After about a dozen landings in my new RV-6A, I'me having a problem which=
has developed on my last two flights. On landing, as soon as the nose =
wheel touches down and then until the speed gets below 30ish there is a =
tremendous vibration and the nose wheel feels like it is about to rip its=
elf off. I was very happy when it slowed down and stopped, and was invisi=
oning my new RV nose down on the runway minus a prop and most of the lowe=
r cowl.
I imagine this is nose wheel shimmy and the tightening nut needs to be =
brought back to specs with the correct breakout pressure re-set.
My question is whether it is common that this adjustment needs to be rout=
inely checked and tightened; or does it typically just need to be re-adju=
sted just once after a few hours after everything gets a chance to "settl=
e into place".
There was absolutely no sign of this vibration during my first 8-10 landi=
ngs. Then, on the 11th or 12th landing the problem suddenly came to be. =
There is also no problem on take-off and I only guess that when the speed=
gets high enough to cause the (shimmy?) there is enough weight off the =
wheel to prevent it.
Had anybody else had this experience who can say whether my diagnosis is =
correct or if I should be looking in other areas?
Andy Gold
RV-6A N-5060
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airframe options |
<< And hey really do check your six, I'm coming up behind you when you least
expect it. Rat a tat, tat.
>>
I have my finger on the smoke sys switch for when I maneuver into your 12
o'clock.......;-)
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light and For Sale Repost |
>> and looking to swap a
>>no-light-rudder fairing for lighted version.
>Call Vans, they offered to swap mine if I sent it back to them
>Tom Velvick
I'm aware of Van's policies, I was trying to save myself and Van's some
trouble by swapping directly with another lister.
Thanks,
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing Kit Arrives |
Rod,
Good luck on your wing. I'm waiting on my fuse, hope it will be here
soon. I have the right wing all drilled.
I think the part your referring to in your message was an 814 not the 614.
Enjoy your kit.
>
>Hello all:
>
>Roadway delivered my wing kit today. It's amazing how much stuff is crammed
>into two relatively small boxes. I haven't pulled the skins out of the flat
>box yet, but nothing in the long skinny box or the top part of the flat box
>was damaged. I'm not looking forward to inventorying it all. There are
>quite few things in there that I don't recognize. One thing I _did_ notice
>is that they sent a piece of channel labeled for another HS-614. How'd they
>know I was into building that part over and over! I could have used that
>freebie a year ago when I first screwed that part up. :-)
>
>For any of you who haven't seen the new RV-8 spars, they're worth a look.
>It's too bad there isn't a way to put a clear skin on those wings. The spar
>is nothing short of a work of art.
>
>I'm finally into working on my project every night. I'm even turning down
>opportunities to go fly in favor of building on the airplane. I can't
>believe how much I really enjoy the building process. It's easy for me to
>see why people end up building more than one of these things.
>
>Keep building.
>
>Rod Woodard
>Loveland, Colorado
>RV-8, #80033, Drilled 1/2 the rudder stiffners tonight. Other half plus
>priming & riveting tomorrow
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Landing Light Installation |
Well, it seems that most people feel two lights are almost a must. I had a
Cessna 172 a few years back and spent more time landing with an inoperable
light than a working one. Landing at most airports without a light is not
a problem, I have never found them to illuminate much before touch-down
anyway. But taxiing and being seen are other considerations. I will be
putting a second light in. I did run into one snag though during the
installation. I cannot understand how I'm supposed to mount the reflector
to the main bracket. The hole is cut and drilled for nutplates, but the
reflector does not reach that area. Am I supposed to make some kind of
bracket and rivit to the reflector and then nutplate it to the bracket? I
wonder if this is a new style light they're using and didn't notice that
there were no provisions for mounting. There is no mention in the
instructions. I called Duckworks, he called back the next day, but I was
not home. I guess I'll try again next week.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
This nose wheel shimmy is a result of the bearings and other parts getting
settled in. As the roughness is reduced by wear, there is less friction and
therefore the nose wheel can shimmy. Just tighten the bolt on the bottom of
the nose gear to achieve the desired side pressure again and your problem
will be solved. When you repack the bearing at annual time, be sure to
tighten the nut after about 10 landings and you will be OK. I ruined my
steering stop with a nose gear shimmy after about 10 landings because I
didn't recheck the side force required to turn the wheel. I now do this more
often and have not had a repeat of the problem.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
Andy,
I never experienced nose wheel shimmy in 350 hrs and never had to re-adjust
the breakout pressure on my -6A. I did have some infrequent main gear shimmy,
particularly if I had over 30 lbs tire pressure in the mains. I think the
nose gear had 25 lbs. I would re-check the pull force to see if it is still
in spec, tire pressure, wheel bearing adjustment and tire clearances from
fairing. I would also check the gear leg, socket, and retaining bolt for any
loose condition. Hope whatever you find is simple to cure!
Les Williams/RV-6AQ
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Andy Gold
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 1997 5:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
After about a dozen landings in my new RV-6A, I'me having a problem which=
has developed on my last two flights. On landing, as soon as the nose =
wheel touches down and then until the speed gets below 30ish there is a =
tremendous vibration and the nose wheel feels like it is about to rip its=
elf off. I was very happy when it slowed down and stopped, and was invisi=
oning my new RV nose down on the runway minus a prop and most of the lowe=
r cowl.
I imagine this is nose wheel shimmy and the tightening nut needs to be =
brought back to specs with the correct breakout pressure re-set.
My question is whether it is common that this adjustment needs to be rout=
inely checked and tightened; or does it typically just need to be re-adju=
sted just once after a few hours after everything gets a chance to "settl=
e into place".
There was absolutely no sign of this vibration during my first 8-10 landi=
ngs. Then, on the 11th or 12th landing the problem suddenly came to be. =
There is also no problem on take-off and I only guess that when the speed=
gets high enough to cause the (shimmy?) there is enough weight off the =
wheel to prevent it.
Had anybody else had this experience who can say whether my diagnosis is =
correct or if I should be looking in other areas?
Andy Gold
RV-6A N-5060
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Mixture question |
My mixture control doesn't seem to effect anything. Question: What is a
good initial setting on a Marvel Carb (O-320-E2D) for the idle mixture
screw. How much to adjust it to obtain "idle cutoff", e.g. 1/4 turn per
adjustment of 1 "click"?
How do tell if the mixture is working properly?
Baffled by this one....
Richard
PS - Anyone got a Marvel Carb manual and/or overhaul guide they will part
with/copy for a reasonable fee?
Richard E. Bibb Direct: 301-571-2507
Vice President, Federal Operations Main: 301-564-4404
Fore Systems Federal, Inc. FAX: 301-564-4408
6905 Rockledge Drive, #800 Pager: 800-719-1246
Bethesda, MD 20817 www.fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Progess Report |
Thanks for the reply. Working on solving a baffling problem with the
mixture (Misture control appears to have NO effect). Finished safetying a
few nuts today. Placraded controls. Gonna be ready Friday.
Rb
>
>>
>>I'll keep the list posted and for you builders out there - NO it should NOT
>>take anywhere near that long but I STILL think it is worth it....
>>
>>
>>Richard Bibb
>>RV-4 N144KT
>
> Good to hear some progress. Congradulations Richard. That has to
>feel great.
>
>Have a Great Day!
>
>Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
> Fuselage-top side
> Lebanon, OR
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> +-- --+
>
>
Richard E. Bibb Direct: 301-571-2507
Vice President, Federal Operations Main: 301-564-4404
Fore Systems Federal, Inc. FAX: 301-564-4408
6905 Rockledge Drive, #800 Pager: 800-719-1246
Bethesda, MD 20817 www.fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Incident almost accident |
Confession time!
Well, I am one of those pilots that does a thorough preflight check prior to
every flight and do the standard run up and the DVA's and today I made a
mistake.
Today a fellow RV pilot of a -6 was having trouble with his engine and it
was running rough so I was waiting at the end of runway 11 with him to see
if the problem was going to clear. My canopy is a tip -up and whilst
idling at 1200rpm this vibrates so I leave the canopy latch undone (side
one) with the top latch that twists under the roll over bar, locked, until I
do my DVA's. My check list was interrupted when the other pilot reported
his engine was running OK.
Well, you have probably guessed it - the canopy suddenly sprung open at
about 700ft! Sort-of grabs your attention as it is suddenly very cold,
very windy and you can't hear any engine running and lose maps start flying
around the cockpit. Van's words in an RVator suddenly sprung to mind -
'fly the plane' so I did't do anything about the canopy which was lifted
about a foot high. (I didn't have a passenger today so there was no one to
hold the canopy either). Now, when this happens you will find that as the
airspeed slows the canopy lifts even further. I did a circuit at 700ft and
landed on 23 and had to land viewing out the side as the canopy was
obstructing the view ahead. Unfortunately our runways are short in length
- 11 is 590 ft and 23 being a bit longer at 618 ft - so as there was
neglible wind I thought it would be wiser to land on a longer runway and
slightly faster than normal 65kts (haven't tested the stall speed with the
canopy unlatched!). For those of you that have nice long runways I suspect
that if you land at a higher airspeed you will have better visibility over
the nose.
I post this in the hope that if anyone else experiences this phenomenon they
remember Van's words to 'fly the plane' and to also illustrate how a brief
distraction during the checks can be disasterous.
L. Coats RV6 ZK-RVL 196.2hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Incident almost accident |
L. Coats wrote:
>
> Well, you have probably guessed it - the canopy suddenly sprung open
> at
> about 700ft! Sort-of grabs your attention as it is suddenly very
> cold,
> very windy and you can't hear any engine running and lose maps start
> flying
> around the cockpit. Van's words in an RVator suddenly sprung to mind
> -
> 'fly the plane' so I did't do anything about the canopy which was
> lifted
> about a foot high. (I didn't have a passenger today so there was no
> one to
> hold the canopy either). Now, when this happens you will find that
> as the
> airspeed slows the canopy lifts even further. I did a circuit at
> 700ft and
> landed on 23 and had to land viewing out the side as the canopy was
> obstructing the view ahead. Unfortunately our runways are short in
> length
> - 11 is 590 ft and 23 being a bit longer at 618 ft - so as there was
> neglible wind I thought it would be wiser to land on a longer runway
> and
> slightly faster than normal 65kts (haven't tested the stall speed with
> the
> canopy unlatched!). For those of you that have nice long runways I
> suspect
> that if you land at a higher airspeed you will have better visibility
> over
> the nose.
> I post this in the hope that if anyone else experiences this
> phenomenon they
> remember Van's words to 'fly the plane' and to also illustrate how a
> brief
> distraction during the checks can be disasterous.
>
> L. Coats RV6 ZK-RVL 196.2hr
>
> +--
>
When I first atarted flying my RV-6 I had the canopy come unlatched in
flight and you are right it does get your attention. It opened about
as you describe but I was able to slow down and pull the canopy down
and use the center overhead latch to hold it closed. If you slow down
it is possible to pull the canopy down with out a problem. The reason it
came open was I did not have the latch adjusted far enough over the
canopy hold down rollers on the rear of the canopy.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture question |
Richard Bibb wrote:
>
>
> My mixture control doesn't seem to effect anything. Question: What
> is a
> good initial setting on a Marvel Carb (O-320-E2D) for the idle mixture
> screw. How much to adjust it to obtain "idle cutoff", e.g. 1/4 turn
> per
> adjustment of 1 "click"?
>
> How do tell if the mixture is working properly?
>
> Baffled by this one....
>
> Richard
>
I adjusted my mixture to get about a 50 rpm increase before it cuts off.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixture question |
>My mixture control doesn't seem to effect anything. Question: What is a
>good initial setting on a Marvel Carb (O-320-E2D) for the idle mixture
>screw. How much to adjust it to obtain "idle cutoff", e.g. 1/4 turn per
>adjustment of 1 "click"?
>How do tell if the mixture is working properly?
>PS - Anyone got a Marvel Carb manual and/or overhaul guide they will part
>with/copy for a reasonable fee?
Richard; If I understand, you are looking for the initial mix screw setting
and then the adjustment?
I set mine to the full in, closed, position then unscrewed it two full
turns. I finally got the engine running with no further settings. After it
was running I had a friend in the cockpit, I got under there (very carefully
I might add) and started adjusting the mix. screw until it was running
smoothly. Then at engine shut down, I watched the rpm very closely as I
would pull the mix. control out. What I was looking for was about 50-75 rpm
increase as the mix. control was shutting the engine down. ie, a rise just
before the engine rpm dropped and the engine died. If you are fast, you can
get the rise-drop and then the mix. back in and the engine will start back
up without stopping.
I don't have the Marvel repair manual, but there is some of this stuff in
the Lyc. operators handbook if you have one.
Mine was an E2D so this is applicable to yours as well. It is what I have
read in various sources and what I've been told by the FBO mechanics.
As for the mix. control (not the screw) once you have the screw set, all
you do is clamp the end of the wire so that the movement of the knob will
cause the mix. cut off lever to have full travel to open and shut position.
Hope this helps.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jackpot Race results |
Grant
I disagree that the RVs are clean, that is a very relative term. They are
clean as compared to a C-182, but when comparing to each other, one can be as
much at 20-25 miles an hour faster based upon cleaning up the airplane.
Steve Barnard website has some good ideas.
From my research you can increase the speed by:
New improved two piece wheel pants, 3-4 mph
Tracy Sailor gear leg fairings, 2-3 mph
improving the engine cooling /exhaust systems, 8-10 mph
improved wing tips, 1-2 mph
fuel injection/electronis ignition (more HP), 3-4 mph
constant speed prop, best climb and cruise performance
fairing on ALL protrusions, 1-2 mph
eliminate canopy and other drafts (air leaks) 1-2 mph
properly designed expanding radius wing root fairings, 3-4 mph
change the wing incident angle 1/2 to 1 degree, 2-3 mph
There is much controversy about many of the above improvements and the actual
mph improvements. But from an aeronautical engineering standpoint, there is
more that can be done.
In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways that an
RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more HP. Great
book.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Incident almost accident |
<< Well, you have probably guessed it - the canopy suddenly sprung open at
about 700ft! >>
Good job getting the A/C back down and not loosing your cool or RV!!!
What damage (if any) was substained to the Aircraft?
Has anyone ever devised a warning system to advise the pilot of a RV if the
canopy latches are not secure? Cars have them, the Military A/C I flew had
them. I suspect that it would really not be all that difficult.
Richard Clayton
Brownsville, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | repairman's certificate/insurance |
A plastic airplane builder in our local glider club relayed an
interesting story concerning insurance and a repairman's certificate.
The builder helped build a Velocity aircraft for a fellow. The fellow
obtained an experimental airworthiness certificate but never got his
repairman's certificate. He insured the plane for the total of his costs
at $115,000.
After a year he did an 'annual' and signed the logbook as such.
Experimentals get 'condition' inspections not annuals. But, he did not
have a repairman's certificate to legally do the inspection. He just
recently had an engine failure and totaled the plane, he was unharmed.
The insurance company will not pay because he was not authorized to do
the condition inspection. He should have used an A&P. Ouch!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Dimples & Sinks-- |
I am working on the vertical stab and according to the
george tape he says to counter sink the VS-603PP
and gauge with a 426 rivet to flush. According to manual
it says to use a scrap piece of .032 and dimple to
gauge the counter sink whats a guy to do?
Confused--Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
RV6A emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Incident almost accident |
>Has anyone ever devised a warning system to advise the pilot of a RV if the
>canopy latches are not secure?
Yes there are several designs I have seen in Kitplane, Sport Aviation and
Rvator. I couldn't locate any except the one that was in my 14 years of
Rvator which is for a RV-4 (page 115). If I find the others I have seen I
will post it. I know I have seen one for the RV-6, but where?
There was a fatal accident of a RV-6 that the canopy was reported to have
popping up. This could have been part of the pilot's loss of control. The
story as I recall it was the second flight. An observer reported he thought
the canopy popped up just before the aircraft descent into ground in a left
turn. I understand Van has tested the aircraft in this configuration and
has found it flys fine.
Congraulations on keeping control...We were told every check ride " fly the
airplane first, then fight the emergency". It got old hearing that every 6
months, but it sure got it across to me.
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Super Cavalier project... |
To all who inquired about the Super Cavalier project. I'm posting here
because there were so many inquiries.
There person selling it has 20+ years into the project, and is selling due
to poor health. Obviously, the man has a strong emotional attachment to the
project, and dealing with him will require delicacy.
My friend who told me of the project will find out the details (i.e. willing
to separate, time engine stored, etc). As soon as I know the information, I
will post here. Your patience appreciated.
Regards,
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
After about a dozen landings in my new RV-6A, I'me having a problem which has developed
on my last
two flights. On landing, as soon as the nose wheel touches down and then until
the speed gets below
30ish there is a tremendous vibration and the nose wheel feels like it is about
to rip itself off.
I was very happy when it slowed down and stopped, and was invisioning my new RV
nose down on the
runway minus a prop and most of the lower cowl.
Hi Andy,
I had a similar problem after about 10 landings and tightened the nut up to a few
pounds of pull
above what is recommended. Interestingly enough, thats what we had to do on the
Air Beetle also.
Obviously, keeping the weight of the wheel on landing helps too and I progressively
pull back on
the stick until I'm practicall stopped.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Getting people involved |
I totally agree with you Gene. We need to expose as many people as we can to
the pleasures of building and flying general and experimental aircraft as we
can.
I have my children help whenever I can in the construciton of my RV-6. They
are 11yrs, 10 yrs, and 6 yrs. old. You can imagine I limit the 6yr. old from
doing any thing really tough but handing me clecos, and tools is enough to
make her happy. The other two help with bucking rivets and drilling holes.
I don't know what I would do without their help.
I try and get the neibor kids involved too, as well as their parents. Their
always amazed that I am actually building an airplane in my garage.
Good luck, and let keep incouraging aviation to everyone we meet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dimples & Sinks-- |
Use a scrap piece of 0.032 to test the countersink and gauge it with a rivet.
When it appears even then countersink on building piece.
Good Luck
________________________________________________________________________________
I am going through and IO-360 for an RV-8 and intend to have the Nay nozzles
installed and intall a preoiler. Does anyone have any experience with either
of these devices? I have seen an electric preoiler and Aircraft Spruce lists
a hand type pump in their catalog.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | incorrect distance |
One RV list reader has picked up on an error in my last posting - the length
of runway was supposed to be metres not feet!
No damage to the aircraft when the canopy popped except a deep scratch
through the paint on the roll over bar when the edge of the canopy lock
mechanism went past.
L.Coats RV6 196.2hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Dimples & Sinks-- |
Mike, I think what we're talking about here relates to MACHINE countersinking
versus DIMPLE countersinking of the VS-603PP skin. If you dimple the skin,
then you machine countersink VS-608PP to accept the dimples in VS-603PP.
The dimpled .032 scrap is used to check the depth of the countersink in
VS-608PP, thus the caution to work up to the correct depth slowly so you don't
over do it. George's tape illustrates machine countersinking the skin, thus
using a rivet to check the depth for a flush fit. VS-608PP is just deburred
for this method. Hope this helps.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/still working on canopy stuff!
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of mcomeaux
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 1997 10:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Dimples & Sinks--
I am working on the vertical stab and according to the
george tape he says to counter sink the VS-603PP
and gauge with a 426 rivet to flush. According to manual
it says to use a scrap piece of .032 and dimple to
gauge the counter sink whats a guy to do?
Confused--Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
RV6A emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
| Subject: | Internet addresses |
Gary,
Sorry I didn't get this to you earlier. Nancy and I went to the Eugene
Air Fair yesterday. Some nice planes on display there. Unfortunately since
it is a fair and not an airshow they could only do flybys.
Nancy and I really enjoyed lunch on Friday. We'll have to do this again.
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny1.htm
http://rv.austin.apple.com/jhovan/home.html
http://www.vansaircraft.com/
To check out the rv builders list send a one word email to
rv-list-request(at)matronics.com the one word should be subscribe.
That should be the only word in the body of the email.
Ray and Nancy Murphy
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV6A empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
| Subject: | Eugene Air Fair. |
Listers,
I attended the Eugene, Oregon Air Fair yesterday. Although I didn't
get to see who was flying it the first RV8 was in attendance. Its take off
performance was truely impressive. There were several warbirds there and
the RV8 easily climbed twice as fast as any of them. (including a Fouga)
those of you building an 8 will have a very impresive machine when you are
done. The 8 was at atlest 3,000' by mid field and soon climbed out of sight.
Ray and Nancy Murphy
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
RV6A empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
That is what I said earlier on this list --- that the builder who holds the
Repairman cert. is the only person who can do repairs and inspections or an
A&P, I.A. I was jumped on to say the least, however , I like the rock upon
which I stand. If you did not build it you cannot work on it without hand
holding with an A&P etc. I feel bad for the owner and hope it works out
somehow for him. The insurance people are probably worse about this stuff
than the FAA. What a drag.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
I installed two, mainly as I use the lights to make me more visible in the
circuit. I also have them flashing alternately, for the same reason.
Buried in the archives is a report on using 12v Halogen lights from
Walmart, which are sold for track lighting. They were a lot less expensive,
and some of the RVs have two on each side.
John (Now up to 36 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jackpot Race results |
>
>In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways that an
>RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more HP. Great
>book.
Very interesting subject. I purchased Tracy's "leg covers" and the fellow
in Florida that makes wing fairings and fast pants. Contacted Steve on his
cowl, but my engine takes the short cowl and the cowl is not made for mine.
I would like to see Tracy's as his type of cowl would fit mine.
I have seen the above book mentioned before. I couldn't find it in the past
postings. Does any one know where it is being sold?
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail light: Was Landing Light and For Sale Repost |
>
> Regarding the second landing light, I have a new in box Van's unit for
> sale
> at discount. Also a stainless pitot tube, and looking to swap a
> no-light-rudder fairing for lighted version.
Are you saying you want the lighted version of the rudder bottom
fairing?
I'd swap, but since I'm in NZ and I've already cut it to fit my rudder
horn, I don't think it's practical.
I inadvertently (asked for 'regular' fairing meaning no light, received
'regular' fairing incl light) got the lighted fairing. I'd decided that
since I have it, I might as well live with it, and perhaps fit a
combined white light/strobe to it.
However, I've been advised that the best thing to do would be to cut off
the light molding to change it into a lightless one, and put
strobes/lights on the wingtips. Apparently the rudder is subject to a
fair amount of vibration which destroys lamp filaments and/or loosens
the fittings themselves. I guess this applies especially when taking
off/landing on grass strips; probably it doesn't apply to a -6A. Plus
there's the hassle of running wires to a moving control surface.
Anyone with one flying: is this really a big problem?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
I was told by a man at the FAA you could work on it without an A+P or a
repairmans certificate, you just couldn't sign off the yearly
inspection. Is this correct? The FAA said it is, but I keep hearing
different stories.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail light: Was Landing Light and For Sale |
Repost
>However, I've been advised that the best thing to do would be to cut off
>the light molding to change it into a lightless one, and put
>strobes/lights on the wingtips. Apparently the rudder is subject to a
>fair amount of vibration which destroys lamp filaments and/or loosens
>the fittings themselves. I guess this applies especially when taking
>off/landing on grass strips; probably it doesn't apply to a -6A. Plus
>there's the hassle of running wires to a moving control surface.
>Frank.
Frank,
I've not had any trouble with the tail light in the rudder on my six in
365 hours. However, on my next six, I intend to use the 3 light, wing tip
strobes. This would save the hassle of rebuilding the "bubble" so that the
tail light will fit (out of the box, my light didn't fit worth a hoot) and
solve the problem of wire routing and the flexing of the wire. It would
also eleminate the small amount of weight (on a really long arm).
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | C/S Prop Installations |
I'm planning to purchase and install a C/S prop and governor from Vans.
They will be installed on my 0-320-D3G engine. Does anyone know where is
the best place to purchase an Accessory Case which has the prop governor
mounting pad? My case is a molded one piece case and the place where the
prop governor goes is not removable. Also, do I need to purchase a prop
drive for the governor that I will get from Vans? Is there a good place to
call for Prop Governor help? Thanks for any suggestions.
Ron Caldwell - RV6A
Installing Sliding Canopy
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jackpot Race results |
>
>Very interesting subject. I purchased Tracy's "leg covers" and the fellow
>in Florida that makes wing fairings and fast pants. Contacted Steve on his
>cowl, but my engine takes the short cowl and the cowl is not made for mine.
>I would like to see Tracy's as his type of cowl would fit mine.
Denny,
Tracy's mod. of the short cowl is a really tight fit. I spoke to
him at the Chino fly-in, and he pointed out that if his c/s prop goes to
the fully coarse pitch setting, it will rub on the front of the outer edges
of the modified (circular) air inlets. The long cowl (old fixed pitch
cowl) is about 3 inches longer, and this gives more room under the cowl for
the transition from the circular air inlets to the fully enclosed plenum
cooling air box. A side benefit is that with the cowling no longer
pressurized, it has no tendency to 'bulge' at speed on the top surface at
the firewall.
Personally, I'm probably going to use Steve Barnard's new cowling
on my O-320 with a Sensenich metal prop with a 4 inch spacer (presently on
loan to a RV4 driver to see if it's better than his Warnke prop). This
combination is the one that fits Vans old 'fixed pitch' longer cowls. The
gain from improved cooling is one of the larger _single_ speed improvement
modifications.
.... Gil (still on hold) Alexander
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit.
>
>
>Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture question |
The mixture adjustment that has been mentioned ("the screw") is for the idle
circuit and does nothing for the mixture while in flight. The only
adjustment in flight is the mixture arm which you control with the mixture
control cable.
If you can get no adjustment from your mixture you probably have one of the
"lean" carbs. The only fix is to drill out the jet.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
>
> I was told by a man at the FAA you could work on it without an A+P or
> a
> repairmans certificate, you just couldn't sign off the yearly
> inspection. Is this correct? The FAA said it is, but I keep hearing
> different stories.
>
You are correct, you only need the repairman certificate to do the
condition inspections. Any other work or repairs you can do yourself.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jackpot Race results |
Hi Denny,
How aabout a source and price for the book by Kent Paser?
Thanks,
Bruce
Start RV6 after Osh
>
>>
>>In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways that an
>>RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more HP. Great
>>book.
>
>
>Very interesting subject. I purchased Tracy's "leg covers" and the fellow
>in Florida that makes wing fairings and fast pants. Contacted Steve on his
>cowl, but my engine takes the short cowl and the cowl is not made for mine.
>I would like to see Tracy's as his type of cowl would fit mine.
>
>I have seen the above book mentioned before. I couldn't find it in the past
>postings. Does any one know where it is being sold?
>
>Have a Great Day!
>
>Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
> Fuselage-top side
> Lebanon, OR
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Andy,
On both of my RV-6A I had the same trouble with the nose wheel. I think its
just breakin wear on the shimy washers. I do from time to time check the
presure on the shimy washers but it seems to settle out after a month or so
fo good flying. At least by the time you have your test time flown off. Keep
um flying...George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jackpot Race results |
>Hi Denny,
>How aabout a source and price for the book by Kent Paser?
>Thanks,
>Bruce
>Start RV6 after Osh
Bruce,
I'm looking for the same thing. I searched some magazines last
night. I did find "Paser Publications" (303)979-3666 in the Yellar Pages.
But that is the best I have for now.
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gcomfo(at)tc3net.com (Gordon Comfort) |
| Subject: | Intercom/Videocamera connection |
This is an apology to readers who may have noted my posting last week on
the above subject. I misstated the location for the impedance matching
resistor. The extra jack and the plug containing the resistor are for
the headphones, not the microphone. The resultant cable connects the
aircraft audio output to the remote mic input on the camera. I hope no
one has been inconvenienced and I will try to be more careful in the
future.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Incident almost accident |
<33D1AB80.13FFD8FB(at)ix.netcom.com>
58,60,62,64-65,67,69-101
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers,
When the tilt-up canopy latch isn't properly closed for take-off or in
flight it opens, the canopy opens only about a foot. There is an
increase in drag, but unless your already in a tight climb situation,
it shouldn't be anything to worry about. The noise level certainly
increases!
The canopy opens about a foot due to the lift it's shape generates.
A while back I posted results of some experimentation I performed
while test flying N925RV. The object was to learn the flying
charactoristics of the airplane with the canopy unlatched and open.
The results indicated the lift component of the canopy as well as
some interesting trim abnomalies. In fact, the canopy can be used
in place of the elevator if the elevator fuction was ever lost! I found
that,
after trimming to level flight with the canopy open, forcing the canopy
farther open resulted in the nose pitching down. Pulling it shut caused
the nose to pitch upwards.
These tests were performed at an indicated airspeed of 100 mph as
I was worried that other damage may be induced, particularly to the
front edge and/or hinge area of the canopy. I am sure that in the event
of a lost elevator funtion, I could successfully land the airplane by
using a combination of trim, power setting, and canopy.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV (Working on 2'd -6A [Chevy Powered!])
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>L. Coats wrote:
>>
>
>
>> Well, you have probably guessed it - the canopy suddenly sprung open
at
>> about 700ft! Sort-of grabs your attention as it is suddenly very
cold,
>> very windy and you can't hear any engine running and lose maps start flying
>> around the cockpit. Van's words in an RVator suddenly sprung to mind
>> -
>> 'fly the plane' so I did't do anything about the canopy which was
lifted
>> about a foot high. (I didn't have a passenger today so there was no
one to
>> hold the canopy either). Now, when this happens you will find that
as the
>> airspeed slows the canopy lifts even further. I did a circuit at
700ft and
>> landed on 23 and had to land viewing out the side as the canopy was
>> obstructing the view ahead. Unfortunately our runways are short in
length
>> - 11 is 590 ft and 23 being a bit longer at 618 ft - so as there was
>> neglible wind I thought it would be wiser to land on a longer runway and
>> slightly faster than normal 65kts (haven't tested the stall speed with
the
>> canopy unlatched!). For those of you that have nice long runways I suspect
>> that if you land at a higher airspeed you will have better visibility
over
>> the nose.
>> I post this in the hope that if anyone else experiences this phenomenon they
>> remember Van's words to 'fly the plane' and to also illustrate how a
brief
>> distraction during the checks can be disasterous.
>>
>> L. Coats RV6 ZK-RVL 196.2hr
>>
>When I first atarted flying my RV-6 I had the canopy come unlatched in
>flight and you are right it does get your attention. It opened about
>as you describe but I was able to slow down and pull the canopy down
>and use the center overhead latch to hold it closed. If you slow down
>it is possible to pull the canopy down with out a problem. The reason it
>came open was I did not have the latch adjusted far enough over the
>canopy hold down rollers on the rear of the canopy.
>--
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro,
>OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light |
<33CF4C13.52A8(at)mail.ic.net>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers,
I have the Bob Olds kits in both wings. This kind of lighting is
superior to any other aircraft I've flown. They a light a dark runway up
very well, even in the rain. The only complaint I've had is that I get
mistaken for a 747 on final !
For those not familiar with this aftermarket option, it has a 130W/90W
hi/lo beam in each lamp, which makes it great for taxi and landings. In
915 Hrs of flying, I still have not replaces a bulb..... The bulbs are
available from J.C.Whitney....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV Working on a 2'd -6A
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Jim Cimino wrote:
>>
>> I just installed the landing light in the right wing leading
>edge(the kit
>> from Van's). Does anyone feel the need for a second landing light
>in the
>> left wing? Most GA aircraft about this size do fine with one. I'm
>open
>> for suggestions.
>
>One is all you need for landing, but some folks have installed a
>second
>light in the other wing for taxiing. This is my plan.
>
>PatK - RV-6A
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture question |
Thanks for the replies re: mixture control. The problem with no response to
the mixture lever was cured by taking the carb body apart. The float needle
appeared to be stuck (not convinced it had been all along) and upon
reassembly the mixture control worked properly. I think the mixture control
was sticking somehow and not actually rotating properly inside even though
the external lever was moving properly. In any event the idle cutoff now
works. I still have to fine tune the adjustment to get the 50 RPM rise at
shutoff and will work on that tonight. Oil temp indicator and/or sensor
failed so I need to troubleshoot/replace.
A few remaining placards, weight and balance, swing compass and I'm ready
for the inspector on Friday. I taxies great.
Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh Sales Lot |
I know what you mean - I have had to ask both kids and adults to "stop doing
that". I'm not going back to oshkosh this year and may not ever again. Its
a fun show but I is incredibly expensive for EAA members who I think should
be given a break when we bring in our "showplanes". I thought that was what
the EAA is supposed to be about - homebuilding. The catering now seems to be
to everyone but the homebuilders. I agree the security proceedures need to
be changed on the Organizational level. The individual cannot hope to cope
with the spectator ding problem. I find similar problems at Arlington and
Copperstate although they don't seem to be nearly as bad.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Wentz <Don_Wentz(at)ccm2.hf.intel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light Installation] |
Jim,
A fellow lister was kind enough to fwd your note. A couple of things:
most of your landing light usage will be for "see and be seen" use in
the pattern or on hazy days. Since we have very small, very fast
aircraft, anything we can 'turn-on' to make us more visible is a good
thing. I do fly home from our chapter hangar after dark quite often,
and certainly appreciate having the lights available for takeoff,
landing, and taxi on those occasions.
As to mounting the reflector, install the nutplates, install the
reflector, install a screw with one of the large washers. The large
washer will overlap the reflector and hold it in. I know that is in the
plans 'someplace', but as happened often to me during my RV-6 project,
that text must have gotten 'invisible' just when you needed it :-).
Some folks have commented that the washers don't look 'good' to them. I
don't disagree that some kind of face plate over the reflector would
look better, but that part would be costly to tool and kit, and adding
5-10$ to the kits for that isn't worth it to me. Besides, if Lyle Hefel
can win awards at Oshkosh on 2 different RVs with 2 Duckworks STOCK
lights installed in each, I suppose it must be OK.
Thanks again for purchasing our lights, and let me know if you have any
further questions.
Don 'The Duck' Wentz, N790DW, 180HP RV-6, #20369
Well, it seems that most people feel two lights are almost a must. I had a
Cessna 172 a few years back and spent more time landing with an inoperable
light than a working one. Landing at most airports without a light is not
a problem, I have never found them to illuminate much before touch-down
anyway. But taxiing and being seen are other considerations. I will be
putting a second light in. I did run into one snag though during the
installation. I cannot understand how I'm supposed to mount the reflector
to the main bracket. The hole is cut and drilled for nutplates, but the
reflector does not reach that area. Am I supposed to make some kind of
bracket and rivit to the reflector and then nutplate it to the bracket? I
wonder if this is a new style light they're using and didn't notice that
there were no provisions for mounting. There is no mention in the
instructions. I called Duckworks, he called back the next day, but I was
not home. I guess I'll try again next week.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057
--------------2AD528635249--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: repairman's certificate/insurance
> Date: Sunday, July 20, 1997 10:51 AM
> The insurance company will not pay because he was not authorized to do
> the condition inspection. He should have used an A&P. Ouch!
How Sh*t Happens:
In the beginning there was the Plan.
And then came the Assumptions.
And the Assumptions were without Form.
And the Plan was without Substance.
And Darkness was upon the face of the Workers.
And they spoke among themselves saying "It is a crock of sh*t and it
stinketh"
And the Workers went unto their Supervisors and said,
"It is a pail of dung and none may abide the odor thereof".
And the Supervisors went unto their Managers, saying, "It is a vessel of
fertilizer and none may abide its' strength".
And the Directors spoke among themselves, saying to one another,
"It containeth that which aids plant growth and it is very strong".
And the Directors went unto the Vice Presidents, saying, "This new Plan
will
actively promote the growth and vigor of the company with its' powerful
effects".
And the President looked upon the Plan and saw that it was good.
And the Plan became policy.
And that is how Sh*t Happeneth .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby1138(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jackpot Race results |
In a message dated 7/20/97 3:52:34 PM, you wrote:
<>
How do you change the wing incedent angle?
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
>
> That is what I said earlier on this list --- that the builder who holds the
> Repairman cert. is the only person who can do repairs and inspections or an
> A&P, I.A. I was jumped on to say the least, however , I like the rock upon
> which I stand. If you did not build it you cannot work on it without hand
> holding with an A&P etc.
I don't believe that is correct. FAR 43.3 contains the language
requiring an A&P to do repair work on an aircraft. FAR 43.1,
however, says that "This part does not apply to any aircraft for
which an experimental airworthiness certificate has been issued...".
The requirement for a condition inspection is laid out in the
operating limitations of the aircraft (see AC 20-27D, Appendix 9,
items 8, 9, and 10 for a sample).
As far as I know, nowhere in the FAR or the sample operating
limitations is there are requirement for a person doing REPAIRS to
be an A&P or repairman certificate holder. I'd be interested in
knowing the FAR, AC, or other reference that leads to a different
conclusion.
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ken Hatfield |
Edward Cole wrote:
>
> > I have seen ads in trade-a-plane for products from ken hatfield industries
> > for roller rockers and camshafts. I havn't seen these adds for quite some
> > time though. Does anyone know anything about these products. I am currently
> > majoring an 10360 and am exploring all options.
> >
> > Bruce Green
>
> Bruce,
> I saw the rocker arms advertised in a Chief Aircraft Catalog. You might
> want to check with them.
> Ed Cole
>
Ken Hatfield died a year or so ago, so I looked in the yellow pages for
his business listing but it wasn't there and I didn't see anything that
looked like something that would be manufacturing his products. I tried
calling the old number I had for his business but it keeps coming up
busy. I guess Chief might be the place to go. I went to Ken's shop a
few years ago and he showed me his roller setup. Looked good but I
don't know anyone running them.
DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Speed With Economy |
>In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways that
an
>RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more HP. Great
>book.
>>
You can order direct from:
Paser Publications
5672 West Chestnut Ave
Littleton, Colorado 80123
Price 24.95 plus 3.5 shipping
Phone 303 979-3666
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
>Well, I am one of those pilots that does a thorough preflight check prior to
>every flight and do the standard run up and the DVA's...........
Ooooh! Another one: DVA's. Ok.........ok.......I KNOW this stuff......ok:
"D".......no idea. How about the "V".........hmmmmmmmm.......nothing. Ok:
the "A" I should be able to figure this out. Run up........and DVA's.
D.......V.......A's. Dig Van's Airplanes!! No. Not even close, stupid
try. Again.....:Departing Versus Arriving......that can't be it: if you're
on the ground, you're departing; in the air, arriving.....don't need a check
list for that.
I give up.....
:>)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | changing incedence angle |
<< <>
How do you change the wing incedent angle?
Shelby in Nashville.
>>
I think you'd need to re-locate the rear spar carry-thru a bit to keep good
edge distance.
Are you supposed to reduce to 0 or 1/2 deg, from 1/2 (-4) or 1 (-6) deg?
Seems that having the engine pull in the exact direction of travel could net
a small increase, but could it (the increase) be measured? This would
seemingly raise the flap trailing edge above the bottom skin quite a bit, and
this would cause some extra drag in that area. HOWEVER! if the angle is
increased, the flap fit would be better, and less drag would occur.
Hmmmmmmm.........
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
I have had a continuing problem with the nose wheel shimmy. I asked Van
about it and he said you have to adjust the breakout force to specs and "keep
an eye on it". I have adjusted it 3 times in 150 hours and it seems to be
getting finikyer all the time. Even after the most recent adjustment it
would still have a mild shimmy. I don't know how much one can tighten it up
without causing some other problem. My nosewheel fairing and gear leg
fairing suffered damage during one such earlier incident. I too would like
to hear any solution to this problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> >Well, I am one of those pilots that does a thorough preflight check prior to
> >every flight and do the standard run up and the DVA's...........
>
> Ooooh! Another one: DVA's. Ok.........ok.......I KNOW this stuff......
How about "Dangerous Velocity Anomalies"?
or maybe "Dreaded Verification Apoplexy"?
or possibly "Determination, Validation, Accuracy"?
more likely would be "Direct Verbal Aggravation" of the tower :>)
DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Lewman <lewman(at)wt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Speed with Economy" |
Denny,
Paser Publications
5672 W. Chestnut Ave.
Littleton, CO 80123
303-904-3417
The price is listed as $ 24.95 plus $ 3.50 shipping and handling (USA).
Jim Lewman
Houston, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | airframe options |
Hi Robert,
If you could make the request after Oshkosh again I would appreciate it.
Time is very short in light of this preparation. The comments of R Busick
is a good general start. It's all in the details.
>
>
>>>>>>>>>>I still have the same
>gph fuel flow I had before yet cruise 30 mph faster.
>
> If anyone who is going to Oshkosh
>Steve,
>some of us are unfortunately too far away this time of the year to go. Could
>you post perhaps a description of what you did and the sources of the
parts here
>on the list?
>Thanks
>Robert (in Congo, Africa)
>Flying STOL701, starting RV-6A quick build after summer
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 magazine reviews? (also magazine indexes) |
I hope everyone enjoyed the post on the Jackpot Race results. I listed
them here to let people know how the RV's stack up against themselves and
other airplanes. I have the other classes and different airplane speeds if
anyone wants more information. The plastic pushers are still very
efficient as airplanes go, but the speed gap between them and RV's have
closed with Dave Anders being the exception in RV world. When Dave
throttles up he just disappears. The fastest Long-EZ was just 4 mph faster
than the RV-6A. I love it, because I have a fat airplane when compared to
these airplanes with a fat stubby wing and 3 gear hanging in the breeze.
The RV shines in takeoff and climb in comparison. There is simply no
contest there. Klaus Sauvier being the exception, he'll eat you for lunch
in a climb. Enjoy
>Yes, Steve, tell us how fast the RVs go. I have a friend who is a backwards
>plastic airplane driver in such shows as Jackpot who commented that there
>were enough RVs this year to have their own heat. In fact, he said that there
>were so many contestants that the last heats of the day were flown in such
>rough air that it made shoulder harness almost mandatory to even stay inside
>the airplanes.
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Attn: Barnard Aircraft Components, Inc. |
Some of the speed mods I have developed will work on the RV-8 if you are
using the IO-360 200 hp engine because our changes revolve around this
engine. The laminar flow inlets for cooling and induction air are a
perfect match. We are focusing on attention to detail on the RV-6 at this
time and cannot commit to specific RV-8 additions yet. Keep asking the
closer you get to completion. I will be at Oshkosh for a while so bare
with me.
>
>Dear Barnard Aircraft Components:
>
>Sorry to bother the whole list, but your e-mail address came back marked
>"undeliverable." Besides, your answer might be of interest to other
>RV-listers.
>
>What plans, if any, do you have to develop speed mods for the RV-8?
>And, if you do, when do you expect them to become available?
>
>Thanks.
>
>--Don McNamara
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Jackpot Race results |
Grant,
Very astute observation on the large speed differences. Most of the
serious racers prepare the airplane carefully and some show up and just run
with a lot of cleanup necessary. Yes some engines do produce more power
than others for a lot of reasons. Flow matching the cylinders, high
compression pistons, electronic igntion, better intake systems. All these
varied on every airplane there. The big question here is what was the fuel
flow. This gives a good indication of Horsepower being developed. Whether
that power gets translated into thrust for propulsion is a different story.
Attention to detail in all things biting the wind can have a profound
effect on the airplane.
Grant I can discuss specific areas later upon my return from Oshkosh. Post
another note as a reminder. Thanks, this is a great question with a lot of
different responses.
>
>Steve,
>
>Many thanks for the Jackpot race results. I would be very interested in
>your opinions (and others) as to the reasons for the LARGE speed
>differences between RVs with 'similar' engines. Are we talking some
>serious "real HP" differences due to engine mods/prop issues, or are we
>talking about aerodynamic differences being responsible for the majority
>of variance in these numbers. I have to believe that power is playing a
>large role here since I am assuming all RVs entered were fairly clean.
>
>grant-
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: airframe options |
It's wonderful to have speed and efficiency Bernie. It's all in the
details too numerous to post here at this time. Quality and focus on all
things that air flow around. See you at Oshkosh.
>
>
><< I couldn't help but notice one comment above about Van doing such a good
> job with the design there really is'nt much if any room for improvement.
> Scott, does 30 mph gains in cruise indicate the design has little room for
> improvement. I have obtained that much difference in cruise than I had
> before with a RV-6A 180 hp engine and wood prop >>
>
>Steve,
>
>I worked for a major jet engine manufacturer for 33 years as an aero engineer
>and when any one quoted numbers that were REAL good, they were usually
>referred to as "fan-tastic". 30 mph increase over a well done 180 hp RV-6A is
>something I would give my eyeteeth for. I will be at O-K and look forward to
>hearing and seeing what you did.
>
>Bernie Kerr
>RV-6A all wing spars riveted, mounting spars and ribs to jig. Did not buy
>stock wheel pants or tips. Maybe made a mistake buying cowling. Hope to fly
>next year
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
This problem will plaque almost anyone with a nosegear sometime during your
flying career. I had very few problems with the nose wheel shimmy issue
until about 500 hours. We had been using a thick grease to lube the nose
wheel fork. One day we ran out of that particular grease and picked up
some automotive type. We did condition inspections on 2 RV-6A's the same
day using the new grease with the specified torque. We both went flying
the next day and both had problems with shimmy.
What appears to be happening is a catch 22. If you torque the fork to
specs and then using the grease zerk filling the fork full the grease will
be forced down the fork and up the fork squishing out at both ends. The
bellville washers will then become lubricated and voila you loose torque
causing shimmy. We immediately thought the washers were at fault and
replaced 4 of them. No change. We them cleaned out all the grease, used a
marine grade grease which is thicker in viscosity and did not pump the fork
full of grease. The problem went away instantly.
I don't think those large bronze shoulder bushings wear very much because
of a small amount of rotation that takes place during taxing. Nor does the
cupped washers seem to have any wear. It's when the grease gets on the
washers and lubricates them. Check the grease your using and use very
little. Check the torque several times when it's new and maybe once every
6 months. Good luck
>After about a dozen landings in my new RV-6A, I'me having a problem which
has developed on my last two flights. On landing, as soon as the nose wheel
touches down and then until the speed gets below 30ish there is a
tremendous vibration and the nose wheel feels like it is about to rip
itself off. I was very happy when it slowed down and stopped, and was
invisioning my new RV nose down on the runway minus a prop and most of the
lower cowl.
>
>I imagine this is nose wheel shimmy and the tightening nut needs to be
brought back to specs with the correct breakout pressure re-set.
>
>My question is whether it is common that this adjustment needs to be
routinely checked and tightened; or does it typically just need to be
re-adjusted just once after a few hours after everything gets a chance to
"settle into place".
>Andy Gold
>RV-6A N-5060
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
There was an article in the RVAtor or a posting on the RV List about two
years ago on this. The writer recommended longitudinally balancing the
wheel fairings. He put some lead in the nose. It seems possible that a
balance point aft of the center of rotation could induce some instability
during an oscillation -- the aft CG might create a divergent oscillation,
which is what you describe. I believe my Skyhawk wheel pants are balanced
for this reason.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: aol.com!RV6Russ(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
> Date: Monday, July 21, 1997 3:59 PM
>
>
> I have had a continuing problem with the nose wheel shimmy. ... My
nosewheel fairing and gear leg
> fairing suffered damage during one such earlier incident. I too would
like
> to hear any solution to this problem.
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wheaton <dwheaton(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | New Builder and Questions |
My first post to the list. Received my -6 tail kit the first part of June
and have really been collecting tools and learning as I go so far. I have
the rear HS spar ready to prime and I am also working on the front HS spar
too. I have done a little searching in the rv-list and it has been very
helpful so far.
What do I have to do to the Alcad before I prime it? Does it need to be
roughed up a bit? I will be using a zinc chromate primer I purchased from
Aircraft Spruce.
How do you reserve an "N" number?
David Wheaton RV-6
Rosamond CA
Building the HS spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Wally Olsen Gone |
Frankly, I've had a lot of difficulty thinking of what to say. I wouldn't be
a pilot if it weren't for Wally's patch of grass and squadron of well-used
planes. The marvel of seeing him tool around in the Jenny once a year is
something I never could see enough of, and now I never will. The world is a
lot poorer without him.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kam Yuk CHENG <kamy(at)cyllene.uwa.edu.au> |
| Subject: | primer on the fuel tank ribs |
Dear all,
While priming the ribs, we also primed the ribs for the fuel tank. Can
anyone tell us :
(a) must we ensure the removal of the primer ? What is the reason ?
(b) any particular method of primer removal so as not to leave any
detrimental effect ?
Best regards
Kamy Cheng
University of Western Australia - student project on RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
----------
> From: dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: airman knowledge
> Date: Monday, July 21, 1997 1:28 PM
>
>
> >Well, I am one of those pilots that does a thorough preflight check
prior to
> >every flight and do the standard run up and the DVA's...........
.......V.......A's. Dig Van's Airplanes!! No. Not even close, stupid
> try. Again.....:Departing Versus Arriving......that can't be it: if
you're
> on the ground, you're departing; in the air, arriving.....don't need a
check
> list for that.
>
> I give up.....
Dat means......Don't Vait Around......(und GO) !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
Hi David,
csi.com!dwheaton(at)matronics.com wrote:
> My first post to the list. Received my -6 tail kit the first part of
> June
> and have really been collecting tools and learning as I go so far. I
> have
> the rear HS spar ready to prime and I am also working on the front HS
> spar
> too. I have done a little searching in the rv-list and it has been
> very
> helpful so far.
>
> What do I have to do to the Alcad before I prime it? Does it need to
> be
> roughed up a bit? I will be using a zinc chromate primer I purchased
> from
> Aircraft Spruce.
Oh no, not the dreaded primer question! Every person has their own ideas
on this. Living in CA (IIRC from the song, it never rains there) you
might even choose to emulate Cessna and not prime at all. That would
make things a lot easier for you.
My approach is outlined on my Bunny's Guide page
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny.htm -- basically, rough it up a
little (you don't want to take off the Al layer) with Scotchbrite. You
may want to alodine it too.
> How do you reserve an "N" number?
No idea. But I think it's described somewhere on Hovan's home page which
is linked off the Bunny's Guide page.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Speed With Economy |
RBusick505(at)aol.com
> >In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways
> that
> an
> >RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more HP.
> Great
> >book.
>
> You can order direct from:
> Paser Publications
> 5672 West Chestnut Ave
> Littleton, Colorado 80123
>
> Price 24.95 plus 3.5 shipping
>
> Phone 303 979-3666
For those of us not in the USA, does anyone know whether they take Visa?
Also, whether they have a fax number?
Thanks in advance,
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Builders in the Oakland area |
| From: | drigby(at)juno.com (David L. Rigby) |
I maybe spending a little bit of time in the Oakland, CA area in the next
few months. Are there are any listers in the area who would be willing
to show off their projects and finished rv's. Please reply privately to
drigby(at)juno.com
Thanks
Dave Rigby
RV-4 Tail Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
writes:
>What do I have to do to the Alcad before I prime it? Does it need to
>be roughed up a bit?
You bet. I use scotchbrite pads which get the job done rather quickly.
If you don't rough up the surface you will find that your primer does not
develop a very good bond...
>How do you reserve an "N" number?
I did this 2 yrs ago but don't remember the exact procedure. However, it
was detailed in the list so you might want to try searching the
archive...
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: primer on the fuel tank ribs |
writes:
>While priming the ribs, we also primed the ribs for the fuel tank. Can
>anyone tell us :
>(a) must we ensure the removal of the primer ? What is the reason ?
>
>(b) any particular method of primer removal so as not to leave any
>detrimental effect ?
You do not want fuel to slowly dissolve your primer and be contaminated.
If you can't get it off using a solvent or some other relatively easy
method, why not just buy a new set from Van's?
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: changing incedence angle |
writes:
><< <>
>
> How do you change the wing incedent angle?
>I think you'd need to re-locate the rear spar carry-thru a bit to keep
>good
>edge distance.
Wait a minute. Incendence angle with respect to what - the fuselage or
the horizontal stab? I always thought that when not otherwise specified
the incedence angle of the wing was assumed (oh, oh, there's that word)
to mean relative to the HS. If that's the case, wouldn't it be easier to
move the leading edge of the HS rather than the wing?
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Dang it! I knew that as soon as I finally made up my mind and ordered
the RV-6A I would find out there was a downside to the nose wheel!
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
(RV-6A fuselage kit on order)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Russ,
I only know of two reasons for the nose wheel shimmy. One is that the shimmy
dampiner is loose or install wrong, you need to use a scale of some type like
a fishing scale to messure the break point. The second reason is allowing the
nose wheel to touch down at two fast of a speed.If you would like please call
me and I would be glad to talk to you about this....George Orndorff
817-439-3280
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott M. Kuebler" <keebs(at)buffnet.net> |
| Subject: | Cutting HS Tip Ribs |
Hi everybody,
One more question before I start skinning the HS. I have the Orndorff,
Pre-punched RV-6, -6a, 8, empannage video. In that video they are
building the -8, but they say there is no difference between the -6's
and the -8 besides the rudder, which brings me to my question:
In the video, when placing the center tip rib, it doesn't look like
they cut the rib to fit the HS-610 & HS-614 angles. Instead they just
place it on the angles and drill through it. Is this a differnece
between the -6 & -8, or is it just a different way to attach the rib.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Scott Kuebler
RV-6, (not cutting anything untill I figure this out)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: changing incedence angle |
>Wait a minute. Incendence angle with respect to what - the fuselage or
>the horizontal stab? I always thought that when not otherwise specified
>the incedence angle of the wing was assumed (oh, oh, there's that word)
>to mean relative to the HS. If that's the case, wouldn't it be easier to
>move the leading edge of the HS rather than the wing?
>
>Bruce Stobbe
>RV-6
It is all related, wing, tail and fuselage. Tail will corrects for the wing,
but you can end up "dragging" the fuselage with built in errors on wing
angle being corrected by the HS.
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: primer on the fuel tank ribs |
>While priming the ribs, we also primed the ribs for the fuel tank. Can
>anyone tell us :
>(a) must we ensure the removal of the primer ? What is the reason ?
>
>(b) any particular method of primer removal so as not to leave any
>detrimental effect ?
>
A 50/50 mix of acetone and lacquer thinner works very well for removing
VariPrime.
Scott Gesele N506RV (Final assembly, final paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Builders in the Oakland area |
Hi Dave
I live in Oakdale, 80 miles east of Oakland. Id be happy to show my -8
project.
You're welcome to come by.
Rob Miller
RV-8 Wing #2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
Dave,
When I registered with the FAA as a builder they sent me a package with the
paperwork and directions for obtaining an "N" number. It worked as
described, all you need is patience. There is a link in the AVWEB
(http://www.avweb.com/,among other places I'm sure) to check for available
"N" numbers. Same goes for registration, just follow the directions. You
did register your intent to build with the FAA didn't you?
>How do you reserve an "N" number?
>
>David Wheaton RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
David Wheaton wrote:
>
>
> My first post to the list. Received my -6 tail kit the first part of June
> and have really been collecting tools and learning as I go so far. I have
> the rear HS spar ready to prime and I am also working on the front HS spar
> too. I have done a little searching in the rv-list and it has been very
> helpful so far.
>
> What do I have to do to the Alcad before I prime it? Does it need to be
> roughed up a bit? I will be using a zinc chromate primer I purchased from
> Aircraft Spruce.
>
> How do you reserve an "N" number?
>
> David Wheaton RV-6
> Rosamond CA
> Building the HS spars
"Oh no, the PRIMER THREAD!! Everybody run! Grab the kids and head for
the cellar, Ma! I'll get the goats and chickens! Lordy, not again!
Auntie Em, Auntie Em..."
David, welcome. There are just some subjects that seem to ruffle
feathers more than others. Primers and priming methods are just one of
many. Check the archives first and save yourself some grief.
As far as N-number reservation, the most helpful avenue seems to be (as
unlikely as it sounds) to call the FAA @ 405/954-4206. The lady I spoke
with was very helpful and courteous. She must be a temp.
Good luck & welcome!
--Don McNamara
RV-8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: changing incedence angle |
<< Wait a minute. Incendence angle with respect to what - the fuselage or
the horizontal stab? I always thought that when not otherwise specified
the incedence angle of the wing was assumed (oh, oh, there's that word)
to mean relative to the HS. If that's the case, wouldn't it be easier to
move the leading edge of the HS rather than the wing?
>>
The people that have done this, do it to the wing when they initially drill
the rear spar to the fuselage. If the wing is already drilled, then you are
right, you can only change the HS. Unfortunately, they do not have a
baseline to compare their speed improvements. But a fast RV is a fast RV and
if you want to beleive that it is faster because of a change to the incident
angle, then that is OK with me.
As I said in the original post, any improvements to Van's design will be met
with some controversy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Speed With Economy |
<<
> >In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways
> that
> an
> >RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more HP.
> Great
> >book.
>
> You can order direct from:
> Paser Publications
> 5672 West Chestnut Ave
> Littleton, Colorado 80123
>
> Price 24.95 plus 3.5 shipping
>
> Phone 303 979-3666
For those of us not in the USA, does anyone know whether they take Visa?
Also, whether they have a fax number?
>>
No fax, no visa, foreign orders add $10 for shipping and handling, for you
lucky people in Colorado add 4.8% tax.
I don't work for or know Kent Paser, nor do I gain anything from the sale. I
just read the book.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: changing incedence angle |
<< Wait a minute. Incendence angle with respect to what - the fuselage or
the horizontal stab? I always thought that when not otherwise specified
the incedence angle of the wing was assumed (oh, oh, there's that word)
to mean relative to the HS. If that's the case, wouldn't it be easier to
move the leading edge of the HS rather than the wing?
Bruce Stobbe >>
Hmm....
Now I recall a speed mod to the Navion that did change the horiz stab
incedence. Maybe the original poster of the mod could explain the setup?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Speed With Economy # diconnected |
RV-List message posted by:
>RBusick505(at)aol.com
>> >In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways
>> that an RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more
>>HP. Great book.
>>
>> You can order direct from:
>> Paser Publications
>> 5672 West Chestnut Ave
>> Littleton, Colorado 80123
>>
>> Price 24.95 plus 3.5 shipping
>>
>> Phone 303 979-3666
I tried this phone number twice and they said it's disconnected with no
more info. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: changing incedence angle |
juno.com!bstobbe(at)matronics.com wrote:
> Wait a minute. Incendence angle with respect to what - the fuselage or
> the horizontal stab? I always thought that when not otherwise specified
> the incedence angle of the wing was assumed (oh, oh, there's that word)
> to mean relative to the HS. If that's the case, wouldn't it be easier to
> move the leading edge of the HS rather than the wing?
Definition Time:
Angle of Incidence - The angle between the wing chord line and the
fuselage reference or datum line.
Decalage Angle - The angle between the wing chord line and the
chord line of the horizontal stabilizer.
Reference: "The Design of the Aeroplane" Darrol Stinton
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: primer on the fuel tank ribs |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9692.DCD88420
Kam Yuk Cheng wrote:
> While priming the ribs, we also primed the ribs for the fuel tank. Can
> anyone tell us :
> (a) must we ensure the removal of the primer ? What is the reason ?
If you leave it, you have to be assured that it won't soften, peel, or
dissolve in the stuff you put in the tank (auto gas, avgas, and the wide
range of additives).
> (b) any particular method of primer removal so as not to leave any
> detrimental effect ?
Try laquer thinner or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Not knowing what type of
primer you used, this is a guess. There should be no detrimental effect.
You haven't prosealed it yet, have you?
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9692.DCD88420
Kam Yuk Cheng wrote:
> =
While priming the ribs, we also primed the ribs for the fuel tank. =
Can
> anyone tell us :
> (a) must we ensure the removal of =
the primer ? What is the reason ?
If you leave it, you have to be =
assured that it won't soften, peel, or dissolve in the stuff you put in =
the tank (auto gas, avgas, and the wide range of =
additives).
> (b) any particular method of primer removal =
so as not to leave any
> detrimental effect ?
Try laquer =
thinner or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Not knowing what type of =
primer you used, this is a guess. There should be no detrimental =
effect. You haven't prosealed it yet, have you?
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9692.DCD88420--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Battery stud size, control knob size, etc |
I'm in the midst of assembling the instrument panel and wiring my
-6A. A few questions for those who have gone before:
- How big are the studs on Concorde A/C batteries (probably 5/16 or
3/8")?
- Is the Concorde battery Van's sells OK for aerobatic use
(description says "will not leak")? Does the battery box need to be
vented?
I plan to use Aircraft Spruce control cables for my throttle,
mixtrue, and prop. I like the A-790 type design because ACS offers
it with FAA standard control knobs. I'd like to order the cables
now so I can finish fabricating my sub-panel, but I don't know the
exact length I'll need. Fortunately, the A-790 can be cut to length
later, which is a nice feature. I'm quite ignorant of engine
control mounting issues, so here are some questions:
-Does anybody know the diameter of the A0-790 control knobs? How
about the diameter of the nuts which attach the control to the
instument panel?
- Can the A-790 be secured to an engine bracket with plain old AN742
clamps, or will those not hold the cable securely enough?
- Will "B" nut type cable clamps (purchase or home-made per Bengalis)
work for throttle, mixture, and prop governor applications?
- Would it be better to get A-750 style cables (10-32 threaded end,
ball-socket construction) like Gary VanRemortel talks about in the
archives? I'd have to wait until I know exact cable length, in that
case.
Thanks in advance. Sometimes the unknowns are overwhelming.
Tim
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | primer on the fuel tank ribs |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Just make sure that you roughen and clean the rib flanges before
applying the sealant. It will only take minutes. Van's says in the
construction manual that acetone has been known to cause the sealant to
fail to adhere to the tank skin if used as a cleaner.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
<...A 50/50 mix of acetone and lacquer thinner works very well
for removing
VariPrime....>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wesley T Robinson <wesleyt(at)twave.net> |
I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I get
one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any suggestions?
Wesley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
I wouldn't be too concerned about the nose wheel shimmy on your 6A. It will
likely be no problem for you. My builder friends seem to have no problem with
it and I have been flying a Grumman Cheetah for several years with a similar
arrangement with no shimmy problem at all. I can't say the same for our other
club plane, however, a C-172. It certainly is no reason to reconsider your
purchase of the 6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: changing incedence angle |
<< It is all related, wing, tail and fuselage. Tail will corrects for the
wing,
but you can end up "dragging" the fuselage with built in errors on wing
angle being corrected by the HS. >>
Don't forget Thrust line! I learned about that from the PT-19 control line
a/c I flew as a youngster- the firewall was adjustable for different
handling. With a bunch of "down thrust", the thing was very stable. My 5 yr
old brother could fly the thing! I couldn't tell a speed difference, but it
sure wouldn't loop, even with the mods I installed. I guess I started
"fixing" things when I was pretty young.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "I THINK, THEREFORE YOU ARE" <PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.intel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
UH-OH....
Did I miss something? What is this "Intent To Build " thing? All I did was
stopped by the local FSDO and they gave me a packet. When I sent in my N-Number
reservation they didn't mention anything either.
All you have to do to register for an N-Number is type up a letter stating that
you are requesting one and that the aircraft has never been registered before
referencing some FAR ( can't remember the number but its in the registration
section ) and send it to Oklahoma with 10 bucks. Put down a few choices in case
your first pick isn't availible. All of the info is in the FAR's for the
address and stuff. You can also call them, they were even helpful. I got lucky
and got my first choice, but I also checked out the numbers on the AVWEB search
page first to make sure they were avail. I sent the letter in about 2 months
ago and had a reply within 2 weeks. I hear this is record time so I figure
someone was bucking for a promotion in the registration department.
Good luck,
Pat Kirkpatrick
Rio Rancho NM
N97WK (res)- 6A wing skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
>
> What do I have to do to the Alcad before I prime it? Does it need to
> be
> roughed up a bit? I will be using a zinc chromate primer I purchased
> from
> Aircraft Spruce.
>
Etch the metal, rinse WELL, dry and prime. I don't rough up anything
that isn't corroded.
>
+++
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA
Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
Restoring Cessna 170A N9948A...Looking forward to RV6
"Either Raise Your Skill Level...
...or lower your standards!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Battery stud size, control knob size, etc |
- How big are the studs on Concorde A/C batteries (probably 5/16 or
3/8")?
Sorry, can't answer this one but a point worth noting is that I just changed from
a gel cell to a
concord. Watch out! the terminals are on the OTHER side of the battery so make
sure you cut cable
length and route to handle the concord.
Ken
RV6A Flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Heat shielding fuel lines. |
I thought I'd let the list know about something I've recently tried on my fuel
injected 360 in my
'6A....
I'd been having a problem with the engine surging after it had heat soaked on a
hot day. It only
happened at idle/taxi and was ok when power was applied. Nevertheless it was quite
disconcerting
and I made several attempts to cure the problem by re routing fuel lines etc.
I have no return path to the tank for fuel vapours which would probably have cured
the problem
quite easily.
My next attempt was going to be relocating the gascolator from the engine compartment
to the wing
route to keep the fuel cool. (I may still do this). However I read somewhere about
a tape that is
used in race cars around the fuel lines as they seem to have similar problems that
we do. My local
hardware store had a roll of insulating tape with a shiny metal side and a sticky
foam side about 2
inches wide. I stuck piece on my heat muff for a couple of months to see how it
would behave in the
heat. I also tried to set fire to it with a blowtorch. Both tests showed it was
fire resistant and
it did not decay or harden while on the heat muff.
So...I proceeded to wrap my long fuel lines (which are already firesleeved) with
the stuff. The
result has been significant so far. I still get very minor surging but nowhere
near as bad as I
used to.
I don't think this is a substitute for having a return line, so one day I MAY put
one in but it has
most certainly helped me. I believe firesleeve is to protect against flame. I think
its protection
against radiant heat is probably minimal so the shiny metal surface on the tape
acts like a very
long heat shield.
At this stage I don't know if there will be any long term effects on the tape...only
time will tell.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | register intent to build? |
Please tell me that this isnt some FAA requirement that I have been
blissfully unaware of for the past 2 years while building my -4! Ive never
heard of registering an intent to build with FAA. Do I need too? I have been
advised by local EAA'ers to postpone reserving an N number until further
into construction for tax reasons. Supposedly there have been cases of
builders having to pay taxes for owning an aircraft, when all they really
owned at the time was a pile of parts, or raw material. Any truth to this rumor?
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
You
>did register your intent to build with the FAA didn't you?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting HS Tip Ribs |
I had the same question - I think this was done, but just left out of
the video (can't remember if he references it verbally or not). I was
able to squeeze the rib in without cutting, but of course the flange
didn't contact the spar like it should.
Anyway, I'm building an -8, and asked my -6 friends about it, and it's
the same on both. Inner tip rib needs to be cut out to clear the HS-x10
& HS-x14 pieces.
EB #80131
PS - I think if you look at the video closely you can see it cut out on
the rib though, or at least kinda tell G.O. is drilling in the center
area of the flange.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC96B6.0991DDE0
Wesley Robinson asked:
> I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I get
> one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any suggestions?
If you are looking for the best tools around, Smart Levels are available
from many hardware stores as well as Avery's. However, I used a cheap
"bubble" type carpenter's level and it worked just fine. Just check its
accuracy first (see the builder's manual).
------=_NextPart_000_01BC96B6.0991DDE0
Wesley Robinson asked:
> I am =
looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I =
get
> one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any =
suggestions?
If you are looking for the best tools around, =
Smart Levels are available from many hardware stores as well as Avery's. =
However, I used a cheap "bubble" type carpenter's level =
and it worked just fine. Just check its accuracy first (see the =
builder's manual).
------=_NextPart_000_01BC96B6.0991DDE0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bubba Joe <Bubbajoe(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV4 first flight |
RV-4 (N65KK) first flew on July 11,1997 in North Little Rock,Arkansas.
Keith Kreth is the pilot and builder of this award winning "4"!!!
I talked with Keith on Monday,July 21 and found out about his feat!!
Plane is off-white with red and blue accents,0-320 E3D with the new
Sensenich metal prop.So far he has achieved most all positive aerobatic
manuvers and has reached a top cruse speed of 190 mph ias.This plane has
been my inspiration and I wish Keith the best!!
Richard Miller...RV-4 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rcowens126(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
I've read lots of stuff about nose wheel shimmy here, but not the one thing
that cured the shimmy on my Ercoupe back in the good old days. She was very
sensitive to precise rotational balance. Try it on your -6A.
Bob Owens
Helping son, Laird with
wing skins on -6.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | nutplate torque values |
| From: | "Sam Ray" <str(at)almaden.ibm.com> |
AC43.13 lists torque values for all sorts of nuts, but not
for any platenuts. Anybody out there seen anything in PRINT
they can refer me to?
Regards,
Sam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
| Subject: | Lightspeed 20K Headsets - Great Buy! |
At Jim Cone's recommendation, I purchased a set of the Lightspeed 20K
headsets, and thought I'd post my initial impressions. They're
wonderful! Comfort is unsurpassed, and the ANR (active noise canceling)
is pure pleasure in the 172 I've been flying lately. The 20K makes it
sound like an extremely quiet Katana. Even with the ANR turned off,
they're VERY quiet. My point of reference is a set of David Clarks
prior to the 13.4 model.
I haven't worn them on flights longer than 2 hours, but can't imagine
them becoming even noticable to me. As it is, I forget I have them on.
They weigh 16 oz. (and that must include the small battery/volume
control box located about 6 inches from the plugs), are stereo/mono, and
have individual volume controls and a battery meter. According to Jim,
they sample the incoming signal so as NOT to cut out the bass on the
stereo. I have yet to try out this feature.
I did found a slight hiss, but only noticed it when I was trying them
out at home. It's really not noticable in the plane, even when I listen
for it.
If you're in the market, I think these are worth the $. They're at
least worth comparing if you can find them at the larger airshows. At
$375, for ANR, they're a bargan too! The 15K model is available with
ANR also, for even $80 less.
Mark "Check Six!" sells these units (I found out after I ordered them
from Gulf Coast), if you're interested. They also are reviewed on the
current AVWEB, and the company webpage is
http://www.teleport.com/%7Elitspeed/we04000.htm
They are apparently scheduled to go up $50 next month, but even that
seems like a good price. I'll try and remember to check back in 6
months to a year and let everyone know how they hold up longer term, as
they are new to the market. So far, so good!
And yes, the standard disclaimer applies - I get no $ for this, and have
no connection to Lightspeed what-so-ever.
EB #80131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
Gene Gottschalk wrote:
> When I registered with the FAA as a builder they sent me a package... You did
register your intent to build with the FAA didn't you?
OK, Gene...what's this stuff about "registering your intent to build?"
If there's something I need to do along that line, I probably should
look into it before I start the fuselage, huh?
Sounds like this might be information that lots of us could use.
Thanks.
--Don McNamara
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I am mounting my RV-6 seats but don't have seat belts yet. I was wondering
how far back the seats can be mounted before they interfere with the belt
attachment point & hardware.
FYI I am trying to maximize leg room, and will be moving the seat back brace
(slider canopy) 3" aft.
Thanks in advance.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
>How do you reserve an N number <
Reserved mine at Oshkosh last year. A table was set up in the FAA
building with 2 friendly ladies and a laptop computer. They looked up
and printed out available N numbers, and had the necessary paperwork
to file a request. Very Easy.
Wayne Buescher
RV6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Fellow RVers,
I'm looking for specifications on various pop rivets. We are looking into
replacing the round head, #4 AAPQ-42 pop rivets used in a lot of places on
the Glastar kit with flush pop rivets of equall or greater strength. I
don't have specs on the AAPQ rivets but do have the specs in the Aircraft
Spruce catalog on various flush, pop rivets.
What I'm trying to find out is whether the round head #4s can be replaced
with a flush, #3 pop rivet such as the MK319BS flush rivets that we use on
the RVs.
I did call Stoddard-Hamilton but they do not approve of any substitution
as they have not tested anything other than what's flown. For instance, on
the Glastar wing, the leading edge ribs and leading edge to front spar are
all flush. From the front spar, aft, they specify round head rivets on the
6 ribs and 16 hat section stiffners. The owner of the Glastar kit decided to
flush the whole wing (I didn't object, btw.)
Speaking of Glastars, after a just about a year of working with Capt. Bill
on his Glastar, this will be my last week. He's going to be gone for a
month, starting next week and I'm going to start packing for the move to
Wyoming. Looking at all of the stuff in my 30 x 45 shop makes me a little
weak in the knees when I think about moving but I'm anxious to set up my new
shop and get back to work on my second RV. Building the Glastar has been an
interesting experience. It also makes me glad that I build RVs. The RV
series is still the best bang for the buck in kits and is a lot more fun and
easier to build well than a Glastar, IMO. If you RVers see a well done
Glastar, you should tip your hats (even though it's partly fiberglass).
They have a much more involved (and expensive) kit. Also, I don't know why
anyone would want to fly that slow:)
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
The plans for the RV-8 show the R-410 bracket being riveted with three
CS-4-6 rivets to the rudder skin and the flange of the R-404 rib. When I=
fit the R-410 (which is pre-bent by Vans) in place the sides do not come =
up
flush with the rib flanges, leaving a gap between the parts. If I simply=
bend the sides out they will meet the flange but not be flush against it.=
=
I have thought of two "fixes". I could simple rivet one side then pry it=
over to rivet the second before riveting the 410's tabs to teh rib and
rudder horn. I wonder if this won't creat stresses I don't want. The
second fix would be to put another bend in the sides and create tabs that=
will be flush on the flanges but I wonder if this will weaken the
structure.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: primer on the fuel tank ribs |
>>While priming the ribs, we also primed the ribs for the fuel tank. Can
>>anyone tell us :
>>(a) must we ensure the removal of the primer ? What is the reason ?
>>
>>(b) any particular method of primer removal so as not to leave any
>>detrimental effect ?
>You do not want fuel to slowly dissolve your primer and be contaminated.
>If you can't get it off using a solvent or some other relatively easy
>method, why not just buy a new set from Van's?
MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) will remove primer nicely. Be careful with it,
highly flammable and moderately toxic (wear an organic vapour filter in your
respirator).
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting HS Tip Ribs |
Scott M. Kuebler wrote:
>
>
> Hi everybody,
> One more question before I start skinning the HS. I have the
> Orndorff, Pre-punched RV-6, -6a, 8, empannage video. In that video they are
> building the -8, but they say there is no difference between the -6's
> and the -8 besides the rudder, which brings me to my question:
> In the video, when placing the center tip rib, it doesn't look
> like they cut the rib to fit the HS-610 & HS-614 angles. Instead they just
> place it on the angles and drill through it. Is this a differnece
> between the -6 & -8, or is it just a different way to attach the rib.
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Scott Kuebler
> RV-6, (not cutting anything untill I figure this out)
>
Scott, hi
On the -8, the HS-404 ribs are cut to fit between the spar reinforcing
angles.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
Wesley T Robinson wrote:
>
>
> I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I get
> one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any suggestions?
>
> If you have a Lowes building center they may have them. They do
in Abilene Texas.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Cutting HS Tip Ribs |
>>In the video, when placing the center tip rib, it doesn't look like
they cut the rib to fit the HS-610 & HS-614 angles. Instead they just
place it on the angles and drill through it. Is this a differnece
between the -6 & -8, or is it just a different way to attach the rib.<<
Scott,
I haven't seen the video but drawing 3PP of the RV-8 has a detail of the =
HS
ribs. It states to trim the HS-404 rib to fit over the 810 & 814 angles.=
=
Don't cut any more than you absolutly have to. The flange is small after=
cutting and you need to get two rivets in there with proper clearances. =
Mine shows no sign of stress cracks yet but then again, its only been in
teh rafters for about a mont. ;-)
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
Steve, I wouldn't get the idea that "nose wheel shimmy" is a common problem
on the RV-6A or any of the other numerous aircraft that use similar designs.
I would guess that anyone with a recurring problem has either a bad assembly
or incorrect adjustment of the parts that I mentioned in my earlier post.
Also, Ken Hitchmough's suggestion to tighten it a little more than specified
and keeping the weight off as long as possible after touchdown would help (the
elevator authority of the RV will keep the nose up until almost turn-off speed
if you just keep pulling back to the stop as you slow down). I re-iterate
that the nosewheel tire pressure is important as is the mains to keep them
from shimmying; too much and you will also bounce like a rubber ball if you
touch down nose first or drop it on! This is one negative aspect of the
Wittman style gear. JMHO.
Les Williams/RV-6AQB/Tacoma WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Stephen J. Soule
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 1997 5:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
Dang it! I knew that as soon as I finally made up my mind and ordered
the RV-6A I would find out there was a downside to the nose wheel!
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
(RV-6A fuselage kit on order)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
>I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I get
>one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any suggestions?
>
>Wesley
Wesley,
I own a digital level and they are handy. However, there may be a
cheaper, more accurate and easier method to level your longerons in the
fuselage jig. You'll probably still end up with a digital level 'cause "you
can never own enough tools".
I leveled the longerons with a water level. I had some old, worn out
garden hose which I cut into various lenghts. I purchased some "T"s from a
farm supply store and six lengths of clear acrylic tubing that fit inside
the hose. I conected the whole works together, filled with water and
positioned three tubes per side at the firewall, middle and tail of the
fuselage. This method would probably be a lot faster and possibly more
accurate than the level.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wheaton <dwheaton(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | New Builder and Questions |
Thanks for all the inputs. Sorry to ruffle feathers if I did. I am not
much of a painter type so I really do not know much about it. I found the
search engines for the list on the Web and have since also found some of
the past threads on priming. Once again, many thanks to all who responded
both on the list and off-line.
David Wheaton RV-6
Rosamond, CA
HS spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
<33D4E6B6.136F(at)twave.net>
Seems I saw one in the last Avery catalog I got. Home depot sells them
to.
I looked into getting one but just got the old trusty regular leval I've
used for years, calibrated it very carefully and saved myself some money.
It does the job.
Cecil Hatfield
6A fuslage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
I've got a question on the height of roll bar. I have checked the height
via a projected line up the fuselage formers and it appears as the roll bar
is about a inch and a quarter above this projected line. Looking at many
past gathering photos I have taken the roll bar looks too high in
comparison. The roll bar measures the correct according to the plans.
Was this height increased with the new one canopy fits the tip and
slide?
Is this a trim to suit?
Thanks!
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: register intent to build? |
You don't need to contact the FAA until you're nearly ready to fly. Before
you can fly, you need an inspection. Before the inspection, you need an N-
number. The EAA has a book about all this. But no, you don't need to
tell the FAA anything until you're ready to paint that N-number.
And yes, the FAA tells the states that you've registered an N-number.
Governments being governments, they happily say, "Oh goody. Another
airplane to tax." Some states are more stupid than others and don't
understand it's not an airplane yet. So yes, some states will try to
tax you for your N-number. I don't know if they actually succeed.
"I tell you what -- you come point out my airplane to me, and I'll
happily pay your tax bill" sounds like a good argument.
-Joe
>
> Please tell me that this isnt some FAA requirement that I have been
> blissfully unaware of for the past 2 years while building my -4! Ive never
> heard of registering an intent to build with FAA. Do I need too? I have been
> advised by local EAA'ers to postpone reserving an N number until further
> into construction for tax reasons. Supposedly there have been cases of
> builders having to pay taxes for owning an aircraft, when all they really
> owned at the time was a pile of parts, or raw material. Any truth to this rumor?
>
> > You
> > >did register your intent to build with the FAA didn't you?
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
This must have been originally posted by a furiner. As a CFI, I can't
possibly recall the meaning of DVA !??!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
Wesly:
Tools on Sale (612-224-4859) has them.
Bob Lovering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight C-GDOC |
Dr. John,
I have been watching for the day you would post the news of your loved one.
C-GDOC - Neat! Perhaps C-FXXG will meet the new arrival someday.
Good luck in your tests.
------- Ed Hobenshield
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello All!
I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to get
the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are as
straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable. I have at my
disposal the ability to manufacture a jig that is made from southern
pine 2x4's that are laminated together. If any of you have seen
buildings that have exposed laminated wooden beams, it is of the same
type of construction. I might add that the same type of laminated
products were used on the recent restoration of the Constitution (aka
"OLD Iron Sides"). To say the least, the end product is an extemely
solid beam that is straight, and is going to stay that way.
My question is, have any experienced builders out there (that is
ones who have built thier wings and empenages) had any trouble with
using lumberyard wood to build your jigs? Have you had problems with
attaining lumber that is straight enough, and if so, has changes in
humidity and temperatures been a problem? My main concern is if the
above constructed jig is worth the effort, and if it is, whether other
builders would be interested in being able to get such a jig. Please
understand that I am not selling anything yet. Just testing the water
to see if it is something that other RV'ers would see an advange in
using. Last thing I want to do is get flamed here!
Anyone that is interested or has an opinion can post here to the
list if you think that our group would be interested in hearing it.
Otherwise send me an E-mail direct at:
Jeff Orear
jorear(at)mari.net
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bobh(at)cdac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
>
>I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I get
>one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any suggestions?
>
>Wesley
I got it from Avery Tools.
Like it very much. Easy to accurately level or plumb things.
Also, you can read the current position from an oblique angle to the
display readout (bubble). For example, when leveling the jig, you can
place the level with the display at the center of the jig either fore and
aft or side to side and make adjustments at the legs and easily read from
this angle to the display when the jig is level. With the standard bubble
level you would have to move from the adjusting point at the leg of the jig
to a position that puts your eye perpendicular to the bubble indicator and
then move back to the leg of the jig to make additional adjustments.
It is also good at measuring angular movement such as controls neutral to
controls at max travel.
It appears to be very accurate and if in doubt, you can quickly recalibrate
it.
Bob
Bob Haan
bobh(at)cdac.com
Portland, OR
503-636-3550
RV6A 24461 Fuse out of jig, working on seats
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: register intent to build? |
>
>Please tell me that this isnt some FAA requirement that I have been
>blissfully unaware of for the past 2 years while building my -4! Ive never
>heard of registering an intent to build with FAA. Do I need too? I have been
>advised by local EAA'ers to postpone reserving an N number until further
>into construction for tax reasons. Supposedly there have been cases of
>builders having to pay taxes for owning an aircraft, when all they really
>owned at the time was a pile of parts, or raw material. Any truth to this
rumor?
Mike,
This is possible in some states if you register your RV to soon.
What you want to do at this stage is just ask for a reservation of an
N-number ONLY. No aircraft details are needed. This just costs a measly
$10 per year to hold on to your favorite N-number - one of the best deals
from the govmitt.
If you get your N-number now, and assign it to your RV, it will be
shared with your state and you will be liable for Personal Property tax (at
least here in CA, at the rate of 1% every year based on some arbitary value
the state sets).
If anyone is interested, I have a document - originally written by
Herman Dierks, and updated by me - that describes how to register a
homebuilt. It also has a simple form for sending to the FAA (and the
telephone number on OK City) for reserving an N-number.
An e-mail request to me will get you a copy (it's in Word)
... hope this helps ... Gil (I got N64GA) Alexander
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 (wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
> You
>>did register your intent to build with the FAA didn't you?
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
>
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)empirenet.com> |
| Subject: | Barnard Aircraft Company |
Hello All,
Just wanted to thank Steve Barnard for the impromptu tour of his shop,
and letting us check out his products. To say that we're smitten by the
cowl and the wing kits would be an understatement! Everything we saw,
both shop and products certainly looked first-class!
Looking forward to hearing more about the performance mods!
Larry & Ellayna
+++
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA
Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
Restoring Cessna 170A N9948A...Looking forward to RV6
"Either Raise Your Skill Level...
...or lower your standards!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
>This must have been originally posted by a furiner. As a CFI, I can't
>possibly recall the meaning of DVA !??!!
Thank HEAVENS.......I thought it was just me.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: register intent to build? |
>From owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com Wed Jul 23 02:09:29 1997
>Received: from matronics.com (uucp@localhost)
> by netcomsv.netcom.com (8.8.5-r-beta/8.8.5/(NETCOM v1.01)) with UUCP
>Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
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>X-Sender: gila(at)pop.flash.net
>X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.2 (32)
>Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 20:18:59 -0700
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: Gil Alexander <flash.net!gila(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: register intent to build?
>In-Reply-To: <9707222010.AA06183(at)manta.nosc.mil>
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>>
>>Please tell me that this isnt some FAA requirement that I have been
>>blissfully unaware of for the past 2 years while building my -4! Ive
never
>>heard of registering an intent to build with FAA. Do I need too? I
have been
>>advised by local EAA'ers to postpone reserving an N number until
further
>>into construction for tax reasons. Supposedly there have been cases of
>>builders having to pay taxes for owning an aircraft, when all they
really
>>owned at the time was a pile of parts, or raw material. Any truth to
this
>rumor?
>
>Mike,
> This is possible in some states if you register your RV to
soon.
>What you want to do at this stage is just ask for a reservation of an
>N-number ONLY. No aircraft details are needed. This just costs a
measly
>$10 per year to hold on to your favorite N-number - one of the best
deals
>from the govmitt.
>
> If you get your N-number now, and assign it to your RV, it will
be
>shared with your state and you will be liable for Personal Property tax
(at
>least here in CA, at the rate of 1% every year based on some arbitary
value
>the state sets).
>
> If anyone is interested, I have a document - originally written
by
>Herman Dierks, and updated by me - that describes how to register a
>homebuilt. It also has a simple form for sending to the FAA (and the
>telephone number on OK City) for reserving an N-number.
>
> An e-mail request to me will get you a copy (it's in Word)
>
> ... hope this helps ... Gil (I got N64GA) Alexander
>
>
>>
>>Mike Wills
>>RV-4 (wings)
>>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>>
>> You
>>>did register your intent to build with the FAA didn't you?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> +--
>--+
>> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com
> |
>> | ---
> |
>> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
>> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
>> +--
>--+
>>
>>
>------------------------------------
>RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
>"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
>mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
Yikes!!
Intent to build???? Geeze, what will they think of next..a tax on my
dreams? I just gotta laugh my empannage off over THIS one...
Brian Denk
RV-8...skinning stabilizer
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bstobbe(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
> I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to
>get the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are
as
>straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable<
IMO the jig does not need to be perfectly straight as long as you can use
it to get your assembly straight and level. However, you do want it to
be relatively stable for obvious reasons.
> My question is, have any experienced builders out there (that is
>ones who have built thier wings and empenages) had any trouble with
>using lumberyard wood to build your jigs?<
I used wood from Home Depot for my tail/wing and fuselage jigs - they
weren't pretty to look at but they got the job done - keeping the
assembly stable and true during assembly. You do need to be somewhat
selective as you go through the wood pile though, and then let the wood
sit for awhile before using it so it has a chance to dry out.
Try this - Go into Home Depot (or any other lumber yard for that matter)
and ask them if they have a piece of wood that is 8-ft long, has a 3/4
twist along its length, and bends to the side about 3-in from level and I
bet they say they don't carry anything like that - then go back to the
wood pile and you'll find a whole stack of them :>) One of the 2x8s I
bought for my fuselage jig which was relatively straight when I bought it
became unusable as it dried in the garage - it twisted so bad that the
only use I could think of was for kindling... so, be sure to let the wood
dry out before using it.
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
Winsted, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Stratmoen <dstrats(at)ruralink.com> |
Thanks alot for the comments on speed mods. I've got another question
for you guys. How much of a headache would it be to set on rv6a up for
higher flying (15 to 25,000).
Has anyone had experience or know of someone who has put a turbo in an
rv? Also on using oxygen. What's a good book on these subjects?
Is it dueable??
comments appreciated
Dave-soon to be rv6a quickbuilder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> >This must have been originally posted by a furiner. As a CFI, I can't
> >possibly recall the meaning of DVA !??!!
>
> Thank HEAVENS.......I thought it was just me.........
It was posted by Louise Coats, a fellow Kiwi. I've never heard the term
either, but didn't want seem an iggerant furriner. I guess it must be a
wimmin thing. :-)
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
mari.net!jorear(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Hello All!
>
> I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to
> get
> the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are as
> straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable. >>>>
>>> Snip
> Anyone that is interested or has an opinion can post here to the
> list if you think that our group would be interested in hearing it.
> Otherwise send me an E-mail direct at:
>
> Jeff Orear
> jorear(at)mari.net
>
> Thanks!
I have found most "Lumberyard" wood to be usable but not straight. The
best methods I have seen for building a wing jig, is to get a sheet of
1/2" to 3/4" good quality plywood and rip it into 4 to 5 inch strips to
whatever length is required. Build a box out of these strips by gluing
and screwing four strips together. This method will get straight and
solid wing jig upright posts. The center, being 109" is a little more
difficult. I have seen 2 x 4's with a plywood sandwich used well.
Hope this helps
Rick Osgood
randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com
RV6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
Try 'Tools on Sale' a division of Seven Corners Hardware in St. Paul, MN.=
They are usually the cheapest and they pay freight. Look in the archiv=
es for their 800 number or send me a message and I can rely
Brian Eckstein
----------
>
> I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I =
get
> one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any suggestions?
>
> Wesley
>
>
>
> +-- =
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.c=
om |
> | --- =
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request@matronics=
.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or sub=
ject. |
> +-- =
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
Hum, I was under the impression this was a requirement, I didn't mean to
cause a panic.I though I read it in Van's instructions, or a least
somewhere in the vast amount of information I acquired before starting
construction. I'll try to dig out the appropriate passage and post it. I
called the FAA and notified them as soon as I signed the agreement with
Van's Aircraft. I called the local FAA FSDO and told them I was about to
begin construction and they were very helpful, and talked a great length
about Van's and experimental airplanes in general. They gave me the names
of local inspectors, and suggested (strongly) I join the EAA. They sent a
nice package detailing the "N" number and registration process, complete
with a duplicate set of forms and a flow chart so even I could figure out
the process.
-Gene Gottschalk
>>>>
Please tell me that this isnt some FAA requirement that I have
been blissfully unaware of for the past 2 years while building my -4! Ive
never heard of registering an intent to build with FAA. Do I need too? I
have been advised by local EAA'ers to postpone reserving an N number
until further into construction for tax reasons. Supposedly there have
been cases of builders having to pay taxes for owning an aircraft, when
all they really owned at the time was a pile of parts, or raw material.
Any truth to this rumor?
<<<<<<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>I've got a question on the height of roll bar. I have checked the height
>via a projected line up the fuselage formers and it appears as the roll bar
>is about a inch and a quarter above this projected line. Looking at many
>past gathering photos I have taken the roll bar looks too high in
>comparison. The roll bar measures the correct according to the plans.
>
> Was this height increased with the new one canopy fits the tip and
>slide?
>
> Is this a trim to suit?
>
>Thanks!
** Sorry The Above Is On a Tip Up Canopy.
Thanks Again!
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
You don't need absolutely straight lumber for the jigs. In fact, you
must assume that your material is not straight. It's nice if you can
find wood that doesn't twist, but even this isn't critical.
For instance -- the cross piece. You draw a line approximately down
the center of the piece. But you draw a *straight* line, which means
it won't be right down the center if the piece is slightly curved. You
make references then from the line, not the jig itself.
Similar behavior with the vertical pieces.
Of course, if the material *is* straight, so much the better.
Regarding changes due to humidity, etc -- you assume this will happen,
too. Your empennage pieces aren't in the jig all that long a period
during which absolute plumb is an important factor. It only takes a
weekend to skin the skeleton of an individual empennage piece, and that's
as long as plumb is critical.
For the wing -- you also assume change in the jig. So you check your
plumb lines at the start of each work session and perhaps whenever you
happen to be in the general neighborhood of one of 'em.
So -- worth the effort? Depends. Is the effort 2 or 3 hours extra, or 20?
-Joe
>...
> I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to get
> the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are as
> straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable. I have at my
> disposal the ability to manufacture a jig that is made from southern
> pine 2x4's that are laminated together. If any of you have seen
> buildings that have exposed laminated wooden beams, it is of the same
> type of construction.
> ...
>
> My question is, have any experienced builders out there (that is
> ones who have built thier wings and empenages) had any trouble with
> using lumberyard wood to build your jigs? Have you had problems with
> attaining lumber that is straight enough, and if so, has changes in
> humidity and temperatures been a problem? My main concern is if the
> above constructed jig is worth the effort, and if it is, whether other
> builders would be interested in being able to get such a jig.
> ...
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-551-1072
14190 47th Ave N. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
| From: | "William H. Watson" <watson1(at)alink.net> |
>Hello All!
>
> I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to get
>the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are as
>straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable
Having just completed this phase of construction, and true to advice =
given here many times, it really doesn't matter how straight the jig =
lumber is (within reason). It does matter that it is dimentionally =
stable. You will establish a straight building line with a plumb =
bob. Even the verticles are not that important as the plumb bob will =
tell you where the top of the horiz-stab should be. You can even =
shim the brackets on the horizontal beam if necessary. Here is some =
other advice:
If you can,
=80 Get the Avery longeron and one inch, holeless yoke (with the =
small yoke you can squeeze almost all the edge rivets in the jig; =
with the longeron yoke you can squeeze most of the skeleton rivets =
which is easier when you are getting started).
=80 Get the small bucking bar, about 3", almost square, about 1" =
thick ( I got from Avery); IMHO, it is essential for the skins.
If you have any money left,
=80 Get the Avery swivel mushroom riveting head for you gun, =
especially if you plan to rivet the skin by yourself as I did.
Have fun.
Bill Watson
Finishing the Emp
Wings parts still in box
Watson1(at)alink.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
>>It is interesting that the -410 was pre-bent, on mine I had to make tha=
t
part from scratch.<<
Phil,
It wasn't completely made. It came as a square "U" channel with cut mark=
s
drawn. Simply had to cut on the line, drill the lightning hole and bend
the end tabs. There was some discussion here not to long ago about how t=
o
make the part and what it is supposed to look like when done. Looks like=
Vans decided to make it a bit easier but the U channel they have isn't qu=
it
wide enough.
Thanks for the answer, it seemed like the better way to go.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougm(at)mailhost.physio-control.com (Doug Medema) |
>
>
> I am mounting my RV-6 seats but don't have seat belts yet. I was wondering
> how far back the seats can be mounted before they interfere with the belt
> attachment point & hardware.
>
> FYI I am trying to maximize leg room, and will be moving the seat back brace
> (slider canopy) 3" aft.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
Rob:
I have also been looking into moving the rearmost seat attachment back
as I am 6'-6" tall with long legs. I looked at a lot of RVs at Arlington
and noticed that the front seat belts for the -4s actually go through
the seat. I asked Van's about doing this on my -6A and he said it
would probably work though he didn't remember the exact geometry. One
issue I noticed is that the seat belt mounts on the -4 are farther
away from the seat and thus the seat belt web went through the hole in
the seat. On the -6s, you might have to make the hole big enough to
for the bracket that the web attaches too.
I visited with Art Chard when I picked up my fuselage kit and picked
up an idea from a -6 he was working on regarding the bulkhead behind
the seat (I believe it's F-605 or F-606). He had fluted the vertical
members just above the rear spar attach point to get them to angle
back. I duplicated this and then put a V in this part just below
the part that goes across the cockpit. I built it such that the
cross member is 1 1/2 inches back. I had asked Van about this at
Arlington '96 and he thought this would be fine. So far everything
has worked out ok with the fuselage skins drilled, but not riveted.
||
|< - cut and bent here. Rivited on reinforcing plate over "V"
//
//
//
//
// -- fluted here
||
Like almost all changes, this fairly simple change added a bunch of
extra work. I had to make an extension for the arm rest since the
distance between the bulkheads had increased when I angled back the
bulkhead. I also had to shorten the rib between the seatback bulkhead
and the baggage compartment. Finally, I had to make the reinforcement
plate over the "V". However, I would do this change again.
I'm going to wait till I have my seatbelts before I place the rear
most seat attachment. Please keep the list posted on what you did.
Doug Medema. RV-6A. Making the access holes for the elevator control horns.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
>The plans for the RV-8 show the R-410 bracket being riveted with three
>CS-4-6 rivets to the rudder skin and the flange of the R-404 rib. When I
>fit the R-410 (which is pre-bent by Vans) in place the sides do not come up
>flush with the rib flanges, leaving a gap between the parts. If I simply
>bend the sides out they will meet the flange but not be flush against it.
Scott - I was puzzled by this too, and called Van's to check. What you do
is center the R-410 relative to the rib, and then pull both sides into
contact with the rib flanges for clamping and drilling. The final result
looks ok, although it does tend to pull the rudder skin slightly out of
shape. I don't think strength is a problem. I have no idea why the bends
aren't placed in such a way to make the part fit flush!
Alan
Alan R. Carroll
Dept. of Geology and Geophysics
University of Wisconsin
1215 W. Dayton St.
Madison WI 53706
608-262-2368 ofc.
608-262-0693 fax
http://www.geology.wisc.edu.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rae1(at)planeteer.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
writes:
> I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to
> get the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are
> as straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable
My solution was to build up a horizontal beam from several laminations
of 3/4" thick plywood.
I ripped up a sheet of plywood on my tablesaw to what I felt would be an
appropriate width. Fortunately I have a couple of 12" I beams that are
9' long. I placed one beam on the floor, then the plywood layers glued
together on top of it, and then put the second I beam on the top. I used
every clamp and every weight that would fit on top to press the whole
works together.
The ends of the crossmember are mounted on angles and connected to the
verticals of the jig with turnbuckles. The turnbuckles allow me to level
both ends and take out any twist.
This might seem like quite a bit of work but I am happy with it.
Roger Embree
6A waiting for wings
Alliston, Ont.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
Isn't there some maximum time limit between the time you apply for an
N-number and the time you actually complete your plane ? I was of the
understanding that anything over a year and you either had to reapply or send
them another ten bucks or so to reserve it for another year. For you speed
builders this is no problem, but is is for people like me.
Bob Tinnell
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
aol.com!QFA1(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> This must have been originally posted by a furiner. As a CFI, I can't
>
> possibly recall the meaning of DVA !??!!
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
> http://www.matronics.com |
> |
> --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
> "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
> subject. |
> +--
> --+
I found this in a ATC glossary.
DIVERSE VECTOR AREA--In a radar environment, that area in which a
prescribed departure route is not required as the only suitable route to
avoid obstacles. The area in which random radar vectors below the
MVA/MIA, established in accordance with the TERPS criteria for diverse
departures, obstacles and terrain avoidance, may be issued to departing
aircraft.
Greg Puckett
RV8-80081
rv8er(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
----------
> > I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to
> >get the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are
> as
> >straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable<
> Try this - Go into Home Depot (or any other lumber yard for that matter)
Try cutting a couple sheets of plywood into 8 inch wide strips and then
either screw two layers together or one layer ply and one layer of board
(Van's packing box pine) for length and strength and you will get a frame
that will not distort.
Best is kiln dried lumber, dressed, but costs like crazy and not easy to
find.
As Van says, a jig need not be true as long as it is firm and your
longerons and structure are checked, trued, and clamped. It works.
In some parts of the country, good,true lumber is impossible to find, so
you improvise. Beats the hell out of me why a steel structure welded,
bolted and whatever is built to do this
job.................JMHO..........Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
ri.net>
>above constructed jig is worth the effort, and if it is, whether other
>builders would be interested in being able to get such a jig. Please
>understand that I am not selling anything yet. Just testing the water
>to see if it is something that other RV'ers would see an advange in
>using. Last thing I want to do is get flamed here!
Jeff Orear
> jorear(at)mari.net
Jeff,
If you do market it I would suggest that you have Gary VanRemortel write
your advertising copy....... :-) Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: register intent to build? |
>Intent to build???? Geeze, what will they think of next..a tax on my
>dreams? I just gotta laugh my empannage off over THIS one...
>
>Brian Denk
>RV-8...skinning stabilizer
>
Brian,
Don't laugh. In my area (Farmingdale, NY MIDO), it was recommended that I
let the FAA know about my intentions to build. They were very helpful and
send me a bunch of paperwork regarding the registration and inspection
procedures. They also put my name and project in a file. Once I'm ready
for the airworthiness inspection (soon, very soon), they will already have
the project on record. By letting the FAA know about the project from the
start, it can only help with proving that you are the actual builder.
As almost everybody knows, policy differs from region to region with the
FAA. By playing by their rules, the paperwork and inspections will go that
much easier.
Just my $.02.
Scott Gesele N506RV (Final assembly, final painting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
Dave I have flown this year using oxygen in my RV-6A with good results. If
you turbocharge the engine it will add some weight but the performance will
go up considerably at altitudes. You will not be able to use electronic
ignition which advances the timing for lower manifold pressure, which will
not occur with a turbocharged engine, turbo normalized or otherwise. It's
a feasible change but the cowling is very tight so you'll have a lot to
modify in the exhaust system. I have a performance program to determine
speeds with different power and different altitudes and is already set up
for the RV-6A parameters. If you would like this info I'd be glad to help
you. The RV-6 does rather well at altitude even 15,000 ft with that short
stubby wing which is surprising with such a low aspect ratio. A larger
aspect ratio at altitude actually increases the speed of the airplane.
Good luck.
>
>Thanks alot for the comments on speed mods. I've got another question
>for you guys. How much of a headache would it be to set on rv6a up for
>higher flying (15 to 25,000).
>Has anyone had experience or know of someone who has put a turbo in an
>rv? Also on using oxygen. What's a good book on these subjects?
>Is it dueable??
>comments appreciated
>
>Dave-soon to be rv6a quickbuilder
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I was timing my mags and following the procedure posted by Blair Tyson. He
says that the "R" & "L" alignment holes on Slick mags indicate right and
left, as in their postion when mounted on the engine. Walt Ruppert
disgustingly told me it indicates right or left rotation of the mag and that
both mags on the O-320 rotate left and can be mounted on either side. I am
not trying to point fingers, just helping someone else avoid this conflict.
Please tell me if I'm wrong about the timing. My 4300 series mag has both a
R&L hole for internal timing located on different diameters. Otherwise all
of Blair's procedures seemed correct. kevin 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
G'd morning RV'ers!
Dave wrote:
>How much of a headache would it be to set on rv6a up for flying (15 to 25,000)
>Has anyone had experience or know of someone who has put a turbo in an
> rv?
>Also on using oxygen. What's a good book on these subjects?
There is really nothing special about higher altitudes, at least not 15,000 to
17,999. At 18,000 you set your altimeter differently and you must be on an IFR
flight plan. At 24,000 you need to have DME.
I almost always fly my Deb above 10,000 and 14,000 when I can do it. It does
take more power and time to get there.
I heard that Bud Crower is putting a Corvette engine (350 hp +) in an RV. That
should get him up there. You don't take off full power but rather keep pushing
throttle in as you go up. Just keep it at say 180 hp all the way up.
Ask Bob Nuckolls about electric problems at higher altitudes - there can be
some.
When you buy your oxygen outfit, you get bottle, cannulas, valves and controls.
A very simplistic instruction set comes with it. Mainly it is "here are the
settings for the different altitudes". My wife likes to make it richer and
there is no harm in that. Above 18,000 you need to have a mask.
At higher altitudes there is less weather and more time/distance to do something
if mechanical things go potty.
If I put a Mazda rotary in my RV-6, I think it would be the later year turbo.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Humbard <jhumb(at)apexcorp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
aol.com!Btinn(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I wouldn't be too concerned about the nose wheel shimmy on your 6A. It will likely
be no problem for you. My builder friends seem to have no problem with it
and I have been flying a Grumman Cheetah for several years with a similar arrangement
with no shimmy problem at all.
I owned a Cheetah for about 8 years, and had a persistent nose wheel
shimmy problem, in spite of a great deal of head scratching by my A&P.
I finally took it to a Cheetah expert, who laughed and said that the
shimmy was caused by a poorly balanced nose wheel. He balanced the
tire/wheel assembly, and the shimmy disappeared forever! Quite likely
this is the problem being experienced by the RV builder...
Jay Humbard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | 16 Years of the RV-Ator book |
For anybody interested in obtaining the 16 YEARS OF THE RV-ATOR book:
Please note that our internet address has changed. The new address is the
one from which this post has been sent. (winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com) The
old (@theharddrive) address in no longer valid.
For those new to the list, the 16 YEARS OF THE RV-ATOR book is an
authorized 300 page compilation of all technical and builder assistance
articles which have previously appeared in old issues of the RV-Ator from
1980-December '95. All photos and drawings have been preserved and all
articles have been reorganized and presented in the order in which you
build the plane.
Chapter headings:
Tools
Tail
Wings
Fuselage
Finishing kits
Engines
Props
Panel
Options
Safety & Maintenance
Performance
Flying
The price of the book is $27.95 and can be ordered directly from us, from
Vans, Avery Tools, and Aircraft Spruce.
Andy Gold RV-6A N-5060 (flying)
Winterland Publications
PO Box 270
Tabernash, CO 80478
970 887-2207
fax 970 887-2197
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | RV maintenance manual? |
I remember hearing somewhere about a person who has written and published
an RV maintenance manual. Does anybody know anything about this or where
I can buy a copy?
Andy
RV 6A N-5060 8.5 hrs TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
>dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com wrote:
>> >This must have been originally posted by a furiner. As a CFI, I can't
>> >possibly recall the meaning of DVA !??!!
>> Thank HEAVENS.......I thought it was just me.........>
>It was posted by Louise Coats, a fellow Kiwi. I've never heard the term
>either, but didn't want seem an iggerant furriner. I guess it must be a
>wimmin thing. :-)
>Frank --+
Drill of vital action! :-)
I obviously trained at a different flight school compared to the rest of the
world!
This is typical of the aviation scene - so many abbreviations and no body
knows what
they mean!!!!!!!
L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 196.2hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig LUMBER STUFF |
My name is Hal Kempthorne, I come from Washington, I worked in the lumberyards
there...
Mostly I worked, for six long years, as consultant in manufacturing processes
and methods in a plant that made very high quality wood 'stile and rail' doors
-
the non-flush type.
They bought high quality douglas fir (mostly) and kiln dried it in their own 7
or 8 multi-boxcar sized kilns which were steam heated by thier very large steam
plant. They would not have been able to deal with the LOW precision you need
for your jigs - which are actually properly called 'fixtures'. Jigs hold and
position tools, not parts.
Select wood with few or small defects - knots etc. Select wood that is
thoroughly dried. Kiln drying is fast but air drying, if done fully, is really
better. The best thing would be old wood from a wrecked house in your area so
that it is very dry and at the humidity where it will be used. Now, the way you
shape it will be how it remains. It is stable.
Plywood is very dry as manufactured and, lacking used lumber is what I would
use.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: register intent to build? |
Joe Larson wrote:
> ......
> And yes, the FAA tells the states that you've registered an N-number.
> Governments being governments, they happily say, "Oh goody. Another
> airplane to tax." Some states are more stupid than others and don't
> understand it's not an airplane yet. So yes, some states will try to
> tax you for your N-number. I don't know if they actually succeed.
> "I tell you what -- you come point out my airplane to me, and I'll
> happily pay your tax bill" sounds like a good argument.
>
Only to a reasonable person. More likely the scenario will go something
like this:
You: "I tell you what -- you come point out my airplane to me, and I'll
happily pay your tax bill."
Gov: "Our records show that you have failed to pay the required taxes on
you aircraft. Please remit the above amount."
You: "Show me the airplane!"
Gov: "Unless the full amount shown above is recieved by xx date we will
be forced to take action."
You: "SHOW ME THE AIRPLANE!"
Gov: "Notice is herewith given that your bank and employer have been
notified to withhold all due amounts heretofore requested by this
agency."
You: "!@#$*&$%$#@!"
Actually I had a case like this. I bought my tail kit from a friend who
started it and decided it was more than he could handle, but not before
he got all excited and rushed out and got his very own N number. I had
to tell the state of Oregon every year (or was it every other year?)
that the airplane was just airplane parts and therefore exempt. Kind of
a hassle but nothing compared to what I had to go to to get the number
changed to the one I wanted to use. (Another story, another day.)
DJ RV-4 N296DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: airman knowledge |
Hi Frank and RVList
Having just received my info pack from the New Zealand CAA, the "Intent to
Build" form is the first thing that I need to complete and return before I
order any kit from Van's. It's not too officious, and appears to be a
professional courtesy to the department, so that they can help out along the
way (my interpretation, not their's). Certainly the info kit that they have
provided is a very good piece of work - I don't mind my tax dollars going
towards that - I learnt a great deal. The ITB isn't binding in any way, and
doesn't form the basis of any tax. As I understand it, New Zealand is one
of the least regulated, officiated, and bureacratic airspaces in the world
in which to fly (as well as some of the prettiest scenery *grin*) so I'm
quite happy to help the CAA help me build my plane!
Sorry if this all sounds terribly naiive.
Re DVA - "Departure Vital Actions"?
Chris Hinch
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
RV-8 builder to be
----------
> From: owner-rv-list
> To: RV List
> Subject: Re: RV-List: airman knowledge
> Date: Wednesday, 23 July 1997 10:13PM
>
>
> dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > >This must have been originally posted by a furiner. As a CFI, I can't
> > >possibly recall the meaning of DVA !??!!
> >
> > Thank HEAVENS.......I thought it was just me.........
>
> It was posted by Louise Coats, a fellow Kiwi. I've never heard the term
> either, but didn't want seem an iggerant furriner. I guess it must be a
> wimmin thing. :-)
>
> Frank.
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
I am about finished with my jig that has been standing in my garage for over
two years. I carefully selected straight dry fir 4x4 timbers and sanded them
smooth before I mounted them to the ceiling, floor and each other. I have had
no problem with warping or rigidity and am perfectly happy with them. I
wouldn't go to the extra expense of using laminated beams unless I couldn't
get dry wood. They would be nice to have and may be necessary in some
climates, but we have a good deal of variation in humidity here in Western
Oregon and I have had zero problem with my jig.
I don't want to throw cold water on any possible enterprise but unless the
price can be made competitive with regular straight lumber I would rather use
my money for airplane parts than for a pretty jig. Good luck to you in your
endeavors.
Bob Tinnell
Salem, OR
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Mowrer" <ronmow(at)rkymtn.com> |
| Subject: | Rocky Mountain Instrument Update Notice |
To RV owners with Rocky Mountain Instrument Products...
Our latest update notice will be mailed to all our customers shortly.
RV-listers can get an advance copy at our website below. The last link on
the home page will take you to our new "Update & Notices for Current
Customers" page. The update notice is available in both Adobe .pdf and
WordPerfect.wpd formats for download and printing.
The first item in the update notice is about the new reset assembly for the
microEncoder that was discussed in the RV list about a month ago. It is
now available at no charge and you can e-mail your request to
techsupport(at)rkymtn.com. Please read the entire notice before ordering as
there are a number of new items and upgrades available for both our
instruments.
The update notice also details information on our new compass module that
feeds magnetic heading to the microEncoder for display and/or inclusion in
the serial output to a GPS or computer.
Regards,
Ron Mowrer
/^\
/\/ \ Rocky Mountain Instrument
/ RMI \ http://rkymtn.com
(307) 864-9300 (vox/fax)
--------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | New Nose Wheel Shimmy |
The following is a summary of comments on nose wheel shimmy on the RV-6A,
with an objective summary at the conclusion. Gets kind of funny sometimes.
Andy Gold:
After about a dozen landings in my new RV-6A, I'm having a problem which
has developed on my last 2 flights. On landing as soon as the nose wheel
touches down and the until the speed gets below 30 ish there is a
tremendous vibration and the nose wheel feels like it is about to rip
itself off. Help.
Russ:
I have adjusted it 3 times in 150 hours and it seems to be getting finiker
all the time. Even after the most recent adjustment it would still have a
mild shimmy. I don't know how much one can tighten it up without causing
some other problem. My nosewheel fairing and gear leg fairing suffered
damage during one earlier incident.
George Orndorff:
On both of my RV-6A's I had the same trouble with the nose wheel. I think
its just break-in wear on the shimmy washers. I only know of two reasons
for nose wheel shimmy. 1 is that the shimmy dampener is loose or installed
wrong. The second reason is allowing the nose wheel to touch down at too
fast of speed.
Les Williams:
I never experienced nose wheel shimmy in 350 hours and never had to
re-adjust the breakout pressure on my RV-6A. Steve, I wouldn't get the
idea that "nose wheel shimmy" is a common problem on the RV-6A. I would
guess that anyone with a recurring problem has either a bad assembly or
incorrect adjustment of the parts I mention in my earlier post.
Ken Hitchmough:
I had a similar problem after about 10 landings and tightened the nut up to
a few pounds of pull above what is recommended. Interestingly enough, thats
what we had to do on the Air Beetle also. Obviously, keeping the weight of
the wheel up on landing helps too and I progressively pull back on the
stick until I'm practically stopped.
Jim Cone:
This nose wheel shimmy is a result of the bearings and other parts getting
settled in. As the roughness is reduced by wear, there is less friction and
therefore the nose wheel can shimmy. Just tighten the bolt on the bottom of
the nose gear to achieve the desired side pressure again and your problem
will be solved. I ruined my steering stop with a nose gear shimmy after
about 10 landings because I didn't recheck the side force required to turn
the wheel. I now do this more
often and have not had a repeat of the problem.
Summary by Steve Barnard
I can't resist, I just have to play Andy Rooney from CBS here folks
Les your my first target, you specifically said you never experienced any
nose wheel shimmy or never had to readjust it. You have lots of input but
no experience--your out.
Mt Everest awaits your ascent but please go with an experienced guide. Oh
by the way shimmy is common to the RV-6A. That nose wheel aint idiot proof.
George your more thoughtful but said there were only 2 problems when you
listed 3. Also you can get wheel shimmy on that nose at any speed. I've
seen it physically on airplanes landing down to around 5 mph. Landing
slightly sideways will induce shimmy on rough runways at high speeds.
Andy your cool, you brought up the initial problem for help.
Russ, sorry to hear about the damage, but read on for the real info your
looking for.
Ken and Jim your on the right track. Your almost there.
The following is based on actual experience, observation, engineering
background and numerous landings. The shimmy we are experiencing is
directly related to coefficient of friction. In this case it is the grease
we are applying. If you torque the nosewheel to a pull out force of 22
lbs. with no grease on any washers or upper stop plate your okay. Once
grease gets on either end of these areas your coefficient of friction is
greatly diminished. Your torque has'nt changed but the ease of movement
once moved from a stable position is greatly enhanced. The best analogy is
drive on tar roads and do a panic stop. Short distance. But repeat that
test on ice and you slide with ease. You have the same clamp up torque on
the brakes but the contact surface has changed. This explains the finicky
issue that Russ was trying to convey.
I had very few problems with the nose wheel shimmy issue until about 500
hours. This problem has surfaced several more times since then, up to over
1050 flight hours. We had been using a thick grease to lube the nose wheel
fork. One day we ran out of that particular grease and picked up some
automotive type. We did condition inspections on 2 RV-6A's the same day
using the new grease with the specified torque. We both went flying the
next day and both had problems with shimmy. What appears to be happening is
a catch 22. If you torque the fork to specs and then using the grease zerk
filling the fork full the grease will be forced down the fork and up the
fork squishing out at both ends. The bellville washers will then become
lubricated and voila you loose or diminish dampening capability. We
immediately thought the washers were at fault and replaced 4 of them. No
change. We them cleaned out all the grease, used a marine grade grease
which is thicker in viscosity and did not pump the fork full of grease.
The problem went away instantly.
Those large bronze shoulder bushings wear very little because of a small
amount of rotation that takes place during taxing. Nor does the cupped
washers seem to have any wear. It's when the grease gets on the washers
and lubricates them. When the airplane is new the cofficient of friction
on the washers will change somewhat due to smoothing of the surfaces.
Check the grease your using and use very little. Check the torque several
times when it's new and maybe once every 6 months or as required. Good luck
P.S. The bronze bushings need an o-ring top and bottom to contain grease
inside the fork. If the problem here is not addressed accurately it will
remain an issue here on the RV list forever. Mark my words.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp(at)carlsbad.net (Larry Pardue) |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
>
>
>Hello All!
>
> I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to get
>the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are as
>straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable. I have at my
With a prepunched HS skin, just try to build the HS crooked. I think the
only reason for a jig with the prepunched is to have a convenient thing to
hold the assembly.
Larry Pardue
RV-6Q Wing Skin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Speed With Economy # diconnected |
RV-List message posted by:
>RBusick505(at)aol.com
>> >In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways
>> that an RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more
>>HP. Great book.
>>
>> You can order direct from:
>> Paser Publications
>> 5672 West Chestnut Ave
>> Littleton, Colorado 80123
>>
>> Price 24.95 plus 3.5 shipping
>>
>> Phone 303 979-3666
I tried this phone number twice and they said it's disconnected with no
more info. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Fwd: Heat shielding fuel lines. |
I'm sending this again because it didn't seem to get through (ie, I didn't get
it back from the
list)......
I thought I'd let the list know about something I've recently tried on my fuel
injected 360 in my
'6A....
I'd been having a problem with the engine surging after it had heat soaked on a
hot day. It only
happened at idle/taxi and was ok when power was applied. Nevertheless it was quite
disconcerting
and I made several attempts to cure the problem by re routing fuel lines etc.
I have no return path to the tank for fuel vapours which would probably have cured
the problem
quite easily.
My next attempt was going to be relocating the gascolator from the engine compartment
to the wing
route to keep the fuel cool. (I may still do this). However I read somewhere about
a tape that is
used in race cars around the fuel lines as they seem to have similar problems that
we do. My local
hardware store had a roll of insulating tape with a shiny metal side and a sticky
foam side about 2
inches wide. I stuck piece on my heat muff for a couple of months to see how it
would behave in the
heat. I also tried to set fire to it with a blowtorch. Both tests showed it was
fire resistant and
it did not decay or harden while on the heat muff.
So...I proceeded to wrap my long fuel lines (which are already firesleeved) with
the stuff. The
result has been significant so far. I still get very minor surging but nowhere
near as bad as I
used to.
I don't think this is a substitute for having a return line, so one day I MAY put
one in but it has
most certainly helped me. I believe firesleeve is to protect against flame. I think
its protection
against radiant heat is probably minimal so the shiny metal surface on the tape
acts like a very
long heat shield.
At this stage I don't know if there will be any long term effects on the tape...only
time will tell.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | primer on the fuel tank ribs |
FWIW, there are some primers, like the BMS-10-11 made by Sikkens, that is
impervious to any solvent I've tried. Even aircraft grade paint remover
doesn't soften it very well.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Leo Davies
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 1997 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: primer on the fuel tank ribs
>>While priming the ribs, we also primed the ribs for the fuel tank. Can
>>anyone tell us :
>>(a) must we ensure the removal of the primer ? What is the reason ?
>>
>>(b) any particular method of primer removal so as not to leave any
>>detrimental effect ?
>You do not want fuel to slowly dissolve your primer and be contaminated.
>If you can't get it off using a solvent or some other relatively easy
>method, why not just buy a new set from Van's?
MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) will remove primer nicely. Be careful with it,
highly flammable and moderately toxic (wear an organic vapour filter in your
respirator).
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Denny, mine is about the same and pictures of my first plane appears to be at
least that and it was fitted with the old canopy. I don't think the new
canopy will fit differently there. The factory prototype RV-6A was refitted
with the new canopy with no problems, according to an article in the RVator.
I would stick with the plans.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Denny Harjehausen
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 1997 7:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy
I've got a question on the height of roll bar. I have checked the height
via a projected line up the fuselage formers and it appears as the roll bar
is about a inch and a quarter above this projected line. Looking at many
past gathering photos I have taken the roll bar looks too high in
comparison. The roll bar measures the correct according to the plans.
Was this height increased with the new one canopy fits the tip and
slide?
Is this a trim to suit?
Thanks!
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Brake Pedal Angle |
I just assembled the brake pedals (overhead) on the pilot side and I find
that the left pedal tilts toward the firewall about 5 degrees from the
plane of the rudder pedal frame. On the right the pedal tilts aft about 5
degrees away from the firewall. This will cause me to pull my toes back
towards me on the right to avoid inadvertently depressing the brakes.
Justice warns about this in his procedure. Did any of you guys flying find
this to be a problem? In the two 6As I've flown it didn't seem to be a
problem but I really haven't done much braking, and I don't recall which
style rudder pedals they had.
Comments appreciated.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
>Has anyone had experience or know of someone who has put a turbo in an =
>rv? Also on using oxygen. What's a good book on these subjects?
Hi Dave
No experience with a turbo on a RV-6, but 10 years ago I bought a project=
Mooney M20-B and finished the installation of a Ray-Jay Turbo Normalized
STC on that Lycoming 0-360 powered aircraft. (Turbo normalized means that=
you never draw more than the normal rated power so engine life remains th=
e
same). No boosting above 28.5 inches manifold pressure, just brings it ba=
ck
up to "normal" when you crank up the Turbo in climb or at altitude. =
There are drawbacks to a turbocharged engine including a lot of heat unde=
r
the cowling, extra complexity such as oil lines to the turbo bearings, he=
at
shields, modified carburettors and fuel pumps etc. =
As for books, borrow owners manuals for a turbo and non-turbo Cessna 210.=
Calculate the fuel burns, times, advantages (if any) on the trips you wou=
ld
typically fly, factor in head and tail wind conditions increasing with
altitude.
=
You could theroretically go 220+ Kts at 23,000 ft in a Turbo RV-6 and tha=
t
sounds great but going west you will have greater headwinds at altitude, =
be
above the freezing level year round (ice), spend more time and fuel in
climb etc, etc.
=
To gain any practical advantage over a comparable non turbo aircraft, you=
would have to be consistantly flying long legs (250 + N.M.). =
When the Ray-Jay spun up it had a really neat sound, but the M20B was my
first and last Turbo! =
George McNutt 6A
Elevators. =
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
The FAA often makes policy by omission. I have been unable to locate any reg.
that states an aircraft owner can do anything but prevetive maintenance. A
homebuilt is a registered aircraft and like any aircraft a potential hazard
if not maintained properly. When a homebuilt is sold there is no reason to
believe that new owner should be thought to have any more knowledge of his
new second hand h/b than the owner of a store bought,.Why should the FAA
allow someone who may not even be able to build a bird house do his/her own
maintenance, carry passengers and operate the aircraft on Federal airways.
Let a person purchase a used homebuilt and then get insurance on the
expensive new toy. Let them do their own mechanic work and then let an
accident happen where faulty or inadequate maintenace is blamed and watch the
insurance company forget they ever heard of them. Tell them " a man at the
FAA " said it was okay. Then tell the FAA they said it was okay, then let
them tell the lawyers of the passengers widower that it is all okay. Thin
ice at best.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
That swivel riveting head from Avery (or others) will certainly save a lot of
small smiles on the skin of your airplane. I would place that one at the top
of the list of tools needed, especially by someone trying to do their own
rivet bucking, if you want a good looking job. The large mushroom head
bucking bar for back riveting the skins is another tool well worth
considering. Try borrowing these from another builder for a trial run on some
scrap aluminum and compare your results with those you get using the fixed
rivet head and regular bucking bars. Unless you are a very experienced
riveter I suspect you will find the results quite convincing. Remember also
that in order to rivet those large sections of skin there will be times when
you must hold the gun and bucking bar at nearly arms length making it very
difficult to assure that they are perfectly perpendicular to the surface. The
swivel head gives you much more room for error before you begin having a
problem with your finished rivets.
Bob Tinnell
Salem, OR
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Builder and Questions |
N number reservations must be renewed annually ($10). Personnaly, I won'=
t
wait for a notice from the FAA, I'll mail in my money 1 - 2 months before=
expiration.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
Finishing rudder today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
> The plans for the RV-8 show the R-410 bracket being riveted with three
> CS-4-6 rivets to the rudder skin and the flange of the R-404 rib. When I
> fit the R-410 (which is pre-bent by Vans) in place the sides do not come up
> flush with the rib flanges, leaving a gap between the parts. If I simply
> bend the sides out they will meet the flange but not be flush against it.
>
> I have thought of two "fixes". I could simple rivet one side then pry it
> over to rivet the second before riveting the 410's tabs to teh rib and
> rudder horn. I wonder if this won't creat stresses I don't want. The
> second fix would be to put another bend in the sides and create tabs that
> will be flush on the flanges but I wonder if this will weaken the
> structure.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> N733JJ
Scott--
If your part had lines drawn on it, and you trimmed to the lines, the
part probably didn't fit quite right. I had that problem, tried a fix,
decided against it, made a paper template, ordered a new R-410, wiped
off the blue lines, drew my own, cut it out, it fit fine. Just make a
new one.
--Don McNamara
#80113
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>Denny, mine is about the same and pictures of my first plane appears to be at
>least that and it was fitted with the old canopy. I don't think the new
>canopy will fit differently there. The factory prototype RV-6A was refitted
>with the new canopy with no problems, according to an article in the RVator.
>I would stick with the plans.
>
Thanks Les,
I do recall that they fit the prototype with the new one, now that you
mention it. I was trying to find the pictures last night. Trimming the
bottom of the roll bar at the required angle will lower it some I guess and
it looks like the skirt makes it appear lower on the finished product. It
looked to me like it was going to be a bubble canopy when I first located
the roll bar. As I am short in stature and not a gun fighter...well I was
thinking drag (?) and sleek appearance. Some -6 side views the canopy look
lower than others to me, maybe it is the paint job (?). Thought I'd ask to
be sure.
Thanks again!
Have a Great Day!
Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
All,
I haven't had time to search for the "Intent to Build" source document, but
I'll include a little background on why I completed this task early in my
construction process. This goes back to how do you get an "N" number
question posted earlier.
This year at the EAA Chapter 524 RV Forum I approached Bobby Thomas, a
local banker who spoke at the forum, noted for his support of institutional
financing for experimental aircraft projects. His bank will not make a
loan, or in my case a credit line, available unless the project is
registered and insured. Since the interest rate of his loan is lower than
my Visa card I am considering this as an alternative. So that the
registration process will not impact my construction, I decided to complete
it before I needed to purchase my engine or avionics. So, I followed the
FAA provided flow chart to complete this paperwork. To register I needed to
provide an "N" number. I a matter of about one month I applied for and
received a reserved "N" number and registered my RV-6A. I also acquired
builder's insurance since I'm now concerned for the investment in my
project and it was required to secure the credit line. BTW, I haven't heard
anything from the tax man yet, but I wanted to get that out of the way also
so I don't have to pay a bundle at the last minute.
I'll try to dig out the source of the "intent to Build" information. I was
under the impression this was required by the FAA, but it may have only
been a suggestion. At any rate, it was a good thing for me to do as the FAA
provided a detailed process for getting the paperwork done the way they
wanted it. And, I only had to submit it once.
-Gene Gottschalk
RV-6A, N700RV, Registered, but not flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Nose Wheel Shimmy |
Steve, you missed your calling. What an excellent treatment on nose wheel
shimmy. I have been entertained, educated, and best of all I know what to
do. Hopefully your humor did not discourage any of our more casual
contributors.
I don't shimmy much but then I don't lubricate much either.
D Walsh. RV-6A, 40 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Pedal Angle |
When fitting mine a few weeks ago I had the same result. I don't know what
effect it has in operation, but I didn't like it. My first assembly also
tilted sideways because I drilled the side pieces per plan and then found that
the welded mounting tab holes were out of horizontal alignment. My fix for
both was to locate the master cylinder mounting hole in the bottom of the
side plate about 1/16" down and 1/16" toward the rear of the plane from where
it was. A little correction here results in a significant change in tilt
angle.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dennis Persyk
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 1997 9:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Pedal Angle
I just assembled the brake pedals (overhead) on the pilot side and I find
that the left pedal tilts toward the firewall about 5 degrees from the
plane of the rudder pedal frame. On the right the pedal tilts aft about 5
degrees away from the firewall. This will cause me to pull my toes back
towards me on the right to avoid inadvertently depressing the brakes.
Justice warns about this in his procedure. Did any of you guys flying find
this to be a problem? In the two 6As I've flown it didn't seem to be a
problem but I really haven't done much braking, and I don't recall which
style rudder pedals they had.
Comments appreciated.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: New Nose Wheel Shimmy |
I was paging through my 16 years of RVator last night and ironically (since
Andy Gold started this thread) found reference to this problem. Solution was
to balance the wheel pant. Dont know if this is a cure but it couldnt hurt.
Its probably worth a look.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Andy Gold:
>After about a dozen landings in my new RV-6A, I'm having a problem which
>has developed on my last 2 flights. On landing as soon as the nose wheel
>touches down and the until the speed gets below 30 ish there is a
>tremendous vibration and the nose wheel feels like it is about to rip
>itself off. Help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Van Zant <rvanzant(at)van.inc.net> |
| Subject: | Speed With Economy # diconnected |
>> In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways
>> that an RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more
>> HP. Great book.
>>
>> You can order direct from:
>> Paser Publications
>> 5672 West Chestnut Ave
>> Littleton, Colorado 80123
>>
>> Price 24.95 plus 3.5 shipping
>>
>> Phone 303 979-3666
>
> I tried this phone number twice and they said it's disconnected with no
> more info. Al
The number I recently reached him at is 303-904-3417.
bob
P.S. Anyone ever formed their own canopy? I'm toying with the idea, and
would like to talk to anyone who's actually done it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig LUMBER STUFF |
Hal Kempthorne writes:
>
> Mostly I worked, for six long years, as consultant in manufacturing processes
> and methods in a plant that made very high quality wood 'stile and rail' doors
-
> the non-flush type.
--snip--
Hal, I was thinking of using Parallam, an engineered wood product,
for my wing jig (fixture). Here's a description from a supplier's
web page (http://www.hollyburn.com/parallam.html)...
"Parallam(R) PSL is made from long, thin strands of wood
bonded together in a patented microwave curing process."
This stuff is very straight, and I'm told it's very stable (not
prone to warping). Are you familiar with this material? Would it
make a good wing jug (fixture)?
Tedd McHenry
tedd(at)idacom.hp.com
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Incident almost accident |
>Has anyone ever devised a warning system to advise the pilot of a RV if the
>canopy latches are not secure?
My RV-4 has a simple microswitch mounted so the latching rod tuches it and
opens the circut when the canopy is secured (i.e., on when the canopy is
open). The circut lights a 1/2" panel light RED which is located right above
and to the left of the airspeed indicator (what you probably look at most
when taking off). The light is also partially hidden by the canopy frame
when the canopy is closed. Also works as a master-switch-still-on light.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Light Installation |
Jim:
I mounted the Duckworks landing light (just one) in the outboard bay of the
left wing. The relector is inserted from the front, into the rectangular hole
in the mounting bracket. Two nutplates are riveted to the mounting bracket,
two washers and screws are used to hold the reflector to the bracket. I know
it sounds mickey mouse, but it works quite well. I removed the rubber from
the reflector, and painted the mounting bracket and inside of the skins flat
black. I also attached the lens mounting strips that hold the nutplates to
the lens with two 3/32 countersunk "soft" rivets that were barely squezzed.
I guess I thought the double sided tape was inadequate for holding the
mounting strips.
Hope this helps.
Jon Ross RV-80094 - Wing tanks & proseal soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed With Economy # diconnected |
I think I've seen this book on sale at the Oshkosh museum bookstore - maybe
order it from them?
>>> >In Kent Paser's book "Speed with Economy" he lists all kinds of ways
>>> that an RV type A/C can improve the top end speed without adding more
>>>HP. Great book.
>>>
>>> You can order direct from:
>>> Paser Publications
>>> 5672 West Chestnut Ave
>>> Littleton, Colorado 80123
>>>
>>> Price 24.95 plus 3.5 shipping
>>>
>>> Phone 303 979-3666
>
>
>I tried this phone number twice and they said it's disconnected with no
>more info. Al
>
>
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
>Rob:
>I have also been looking into moving the rearmost seat attachment back
>as I am 6'-6" tall with long legs...I built it such that the
>cross member is 1 1/2 inches back. I had asked Van about this at
>Arlington '96 and he thought this would be fine. So far everything
>has worked out ok with the fuselage skins drilled, but not riveted.
Doug,
I'm 6'4" mostly torso. I had a chance to sit in W. Berry's gorgeous -6, he
moved the F-605 cross member 3" back. What a difference in seating comfort
compared to a standard -6, I finally fit perfectly in the airplane instead
of being cramped up.
Your mods sound great provided you are building the standard kit, I have the
quickbuild so will only be unriveting the minimal items necessary.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Pedal Angle |
After reading my post I realize that I should have included moving the
mounting hole in the side angle to correct the horizontal alignment.
Les
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of les williams
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 1997 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedal Angle
When fitting mine a few weeks ago I had the same result. I don't know what
effect it has in operation, but I didn't like it. My first assembly also
tilted sideways because I drilled the side pieces per plan and then found that
the welded mounting tab holes were out of horizontal alignment. My fix for
both was to locate the master cylinder mounting hole in the bottom of the
side plate about 1/16" down and 1/16" toward the rear of the plane from where
it was. A little correction here results in a significant change in tilt
angle.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dennis Persyk
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 1997 9:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Pedal Angle
I just assembled the brake pedals (overhead) on the pilot side and I find
that the left pedal tilts toward the firewall about 5 degrees from the
plane of the rudder pedal frame. On the right the pedal tilts aft about 5
degrees away from the firewall. This will cause me to pull my toes back
towards me on the right to avoid inadvertently depressing the brakes.
Justice warns about this in his procedure. Did any of you guys flying find
this to be a problem? In the two 6As I've flown it didn't seem to be a
problem but I really haven't done much braking, and I don't recall which
style rudder pedals they had.
Comments appreciated.
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig LUMBER STUFF |
Tedd,
This is overkill but if you can afford it...why not!
hal
I was thinking of using Parallam, an engineered wood product,
for my wing jig (fixture). Here's a description from a supplier's
web page (http://www.hollyburn.com/parallam.html)...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
| Subject: | Re: New Nose Wheel Shimmy |
Hi Mike,
Balancing the nose wheel would require a lot of lead in the nose piece of
the wheel pant. There is no mass forward of the pivot point. In
otherwords all the weight is aft of the axle. It is something to consider
but from a weight standpoint you may add excess weight on the airplane. I
also forgot to mention that most of us are probably using a $20.00 fish
scale made in Taiwan which is probably not real accurate. I would bet most
of us can't really get an accurate torque using what we are. Thanks for
your input.
>I was paging through my 16 years of RVator last night and ironically (since
>Andy Gold started this thread) found reference to this problem. Solution was
>to balance the wheel pant. Dont know if this is a cure but it couldnt hurt.
>Its probably worth a look.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 (wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>
>>Andy Gold:
>>After about a dozen landings in my new RV-6A, I'm having a problem which
>>has developed on my last 2 flights. On landing as soon as the nose wheel
>>touches down and the until the speed gets below 30 ish there is a
>>tremendous vibration and the nose wheel feels like it is about to rip
>>itself off. Help.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TESTPYLOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Pedal Angle |
Hi RVers
I found the same problem with the rudder pedals. I am also 6'6" tall
and the angle was hard to deal with. What I did is machined a pc. of nylon
that I installed inside the master cylinders. It shortend the through a
small amount but change the angle alot. It made a huge difference and is
very comfortable now. The mod that Rob Acher was talking about (moving the
seat-back support structure) aft he saw on my rv6. I had to narrow the
seat-back aprox 6" from the bottom to alow for the seat belts. In doing
this mod I soon realized that the instrument panel was to far from my face so
I moved it back 3" as well. All of this is over the CG it so it shoundn't
hurt my baggage caring capacity. (180 hp constant speed prop and bat. on the
firewall)
Werner Berry
N64WL
finishing up the paint and moving out to chino airport next week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kam Yuk CHENG <kamy(at)cyllene.uwa.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Can 4 people work on the fuselage construction ? |
Dear all,
The interest among my mechanical engineering students who want to work on
the RV-6A construction is overwhelming. It would be very difficult to
shortlist to 4 students working on the fuselage. Being a university
project, I have to stick to the university semester times. Those 4
students will start on the fuselage next Feb., since they have their
exams. in Oct. and then a long summer vacation break.
Can anyone tell me if 4 people would be too many to work on the fuselage
construction ?
Regards
Kamy
University of Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV maintenance manual? |
I remember hearing somewhere about a person who has written and published
an RV maintenance manual. Does anybody know anything about this or where
I can buy a copy? >>
Andy-
One RV Aircraft Maintenance Manual is available from Aircraft Spruce or from
C.R. Supply P.O. Box 46 Manitou Springs,CO 80829 $ 16.00.
I'll be glad to send you mine , it's not a very satisfactory book.
E-mail me your address but do it fast as I'm on my way to Oshkosh for my 18th
year and I'm getting hyper.
Regards.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can 4 people work on the fuselage construction ? |
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 N61764 flying
Stephenville TX
----------
> Can anyone tell me if 4 people would be too many to work on the fuselage
> construction ?
> Kamy
> University of Western Australia
>
Kamy, Your problem is similar to organizing political party stuff--the more
you can get to work on it, the better it is overall. I've had as many as
six work on mine at one time. It takes a little organization and
compatible people, but that way I was able to spread the interest over more
fertile ground at on time. After all, I suspect that one of your main
goals is to spread the reception of knowledge as wide and throrough as
possible. Press on!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Heat shielding fuel lines. |
I had occasion to travel to PHX last week, and this proved to be a severe
test of my abilities to start and keep a F.I. a/c engine running. The
instructor I visited said to keep the boost pump running during the time I
felt the engine would surge or quit. Hey! This fella seems to have a good tip
here!
I think I'll see if I can find some of that tape you're talking about. Do you
have a brand name?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Pedal Angle |
> I just assembled the brake pedals (overhead) on the pilot side and I find
> that the left pedal tilts toward the firewall about 5 degrees from the
> plane of the rudder pedal frame. On the right the pedal tilts aft about 5
> degrees away from the firewall. This will cause me to pull my toes back
> towards me on the right to avoid inadvertently depressing the brakes.
> Justice warns about this in his procedure. Did any of you guys flying find
> this to be a problem? In the two 6As I've flown it didn't seem to be a
> problem but I really haven't done much braking, and I don't recall which
> style rudder pedals they had.
> Comments appreciated.
> Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
Dennis,
There was quite a bit of discussion about this a few months ago.
Several folks mentioned modifying the side piece so that the pedals
would tilt back slightly. I ended up modifying both my left and
right side pieces so that the pedals tilt back 10 degrees or so. I
found that I had to make the left and right pieces just a bit
different, because the geometry is different. I used scrap aluminum
to make a pattern, adjusted it until everything fit right, then used
the pattern to make the "real" side pieces.
Good Luck.
Tim
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Heat shielding fuel lines. |
Mark said
I had occasion to travel to PHX last week, and this proved to be a severe
test of my abilities to start and keep a F.I. a/c engine running. The
instructor I visited said to keep the boost pump running during the time I
felt the engine would surge or quit. Hey! This fella seems to have a good tip
here!
I think I'll see if I can find some of that tape you're talking about. Do you
have a brand name?
I have never found keeping the boost pump running to have any affect (but I think
its a good idea
anyway).
The tape I used was from a plumbing kind of shop. There was no brand name. I've
seen similar stuff
in the race car component catalogs, specifically for fuel lines. I'll try and get
some more
specifics.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Table - Van's Banquet |
<19970714.171214.25007.8.cecilth(at)juno.com>
Hi Gang,
I've made my list 'n checking it twice. This is the last call for this
year. If you have any changes, let me know.
>Rember, if you have a change of plans, please let me know.
>
>Cecil Hatfield
>Tim Sweemer
>Donna Sweemer
>Jim Ayers
>Jim Cone
>Bev Cone
>Peter Hanna
>Les Rowles
>Robert Morley
>Zelda Gifford
>Bruce Knoll
>Ted French
>Jack French
>Louis Willig
>Marty Ssiler
>Barbara Sailer
>Ed Loveday
>Richard Reynolds
>Brian Yablon
>Hal Kempthorne
>Craig Moen
>Bob Cornacchio
>Ray Edling
>Ian Dadd
>Bernie Kerr
>The Banquet this year is Sunday evening starting at 6:30.
>Ticket cost $17.00
>Order your tickets from Vans before July 28. There will only be about
>
>300 tickets available so first come first served. In the past, those
>that order close to deadline can be picked up at Vans booth.
>
>
>So we don't clutter the list, send your name and the number in your
>party to me at cecilth(at)juno.com
> Before July 29th (when I leave for mecca), keep me posted if I
>
>need to remove your name.
>Cecil Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can 4 people work on the fuselage construction ? |
>
Dear Mr. Cheng,
Four, or more should be no problem. The Zenair company has, for a number of
years, built the 601HD or HDS at Oshkosh and more recently at Sun 'n Fun.
My son & I spent about an hour in their tent during a rainstorm and watched
their activity at S&F this year. This was a kit aircraft. With a scratch
built there should be more than enough work for everyone. The trick for you
will be to help them get organized into a functioning group.
Good Luck,
Bruce Knoll
Starting a RV6A after Osh.
>
>Dear all,
>
>The interest among my mechanical engineering students who want to work on
>the RV-6A construction is overwhelming. It would be very difficult to
>shortlist to 4 students working on the fuselage. Being a university
>project, I have to stick to the university semester times. Those 4
>students will start on the fuselage next Feb., since they have their
>exams. in Oct. and then a long summer vacation break.
>
>Can anyone tell me if 4 people would be too many to work on the fuselage
>construction ?
>
>Regards
>Kamy
>University of Western Australia
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
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> +--
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Can 4 people work on the fuselage construction ? |
> Can anyone tell me if 4 people would be too many to work on the fuselage
> construction ?
We had up to 8 working on the fuselage on the AIrBeetle...lots of sub assembly
stuff to do...mind
you we also had some problems to contend with...
ME: "Ahmed, please go to the stores and get me a 1/4 inch drill bit"
AHMED:"yes master.....(pause while he thinks)......Master?.... is that 1/4 inch
wide or 1/4 inch
long!!!
Ken RV6A FLying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel fairing balance |
>Balancing the nose wheel fairing would require a lot of lead in the nose
piece >of the wheel pant. .......but from a weight standpoint you may add
excess >weight on the airplane.
Which reminds me: How many builders are balancing the MAIN gear wheel pant
to minimize vibration/shimmy on the main gears, especially the taildraggers?
Just curious...........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Continuing error message |
Each time I download another batch of e-mail I keep getting, as the very last
message in the list of incoming mail, the following message. "RV-List:Rudder
Fitting:File Open error caused download failure." Can something be done to
eliminate the offending message from those being sent ? This message has been
there for about a week now and it is really getting annoying. I cannot do
anything on this end to eliminate it and I wonder if it has caused the e-mail
download to abort before all the mail has been delivered.
Bob Tinnell
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Dixon <sdixon(at)jet.laker.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS and Wing Jig |
Jeff,
I used aluminium extrusions used for pool / patio screen enclosures.
They are strong, light, dimentionally stable, and not very expensive.
Steve Dixon
RV-8 Wings
mari.net!jorear(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Hello All!
>
> I am about to get started on my HS for my 6A and would like to get
> the opinion of the group regarding the importance of jigs that are as
> straight as an arrow and are dimensionally stable. I have at my
> disposal the ability to manufacture a jig that is made from southern
> pine 2x4's that are laminated together. If any of you have seen
> buildings that have exposed laminated wooden beams, it is of the same
> type of construction. I might add that the same type of laminated
> products were used on the recent restoration of the Constitution (aka
> "OLD Iron Sides"). To say the least, the end product is an extemely
> solid beam that is straight, and is going to stay that way.
>
> My question is, have any experienced builders out there (that is
> ones who have built thier wings and empenages) had any trouble with
> using lumberyard wood to build your jigs? Have you had problems with
> attaining lumber that is straight enough, and if so, has changes in
> humidity and temperatures been a problem? My main concern is if the
> above constructed jig is worth the effort, and if it is, whether other
> builders would be interested in being able to get such a jig. Please
> understand that I am not selling anything yet. Just testing the water
> to see if it is something that other RV'ers would see an advange in
> using. Last thing I want to do is get flamed here!
>
> Anyone that is interested or has an opinion can post here to the
> list if you think that our group would be interested in hearing it.
> Otherwise send me an E-mail direct at:
>
> Jeff Orear
> jorear(at)mari.net
>
> Thanks!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Nose Wheel Shimmy |
barnardaircraft wrote:
>
>
> Hi Mike,
> Balancing the nose wheel would require a lot of lead in the nose piece of
> the wheel pant.
Balancing the wheel pants may sound good in theory and my be applicable in some
circumstances,
however I don't think it is in this one. In this case the problem was none existant
during the
first few flights and then showed itself up later. So, something changed. The weight
and balance
of the wheel pants did not change during those flights so the problem must be something
else. If
the wheel pants balance were the problem, then the shimmy would have been present
from flight
number one.
At this point, I am convinced that the nose wheel breakout point needs to be re-set
and the
amount of grease in the bearings needs to be lessened, and finally my skill needs
to improve to
keep the weight off the nose longer during roll out. We'll find out this weekend.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV maintenance manual? |
> One RV Aircraft Maintenance Manual is available from Aircraft Spruce or from
> C.R. Supply P.O. Box 46 Manitou Springs,CO 80829 $ 16.00.
> I'll be glad to send you mine , it's not a very satisfactory book.
> E-mail me your address but do it fast as I'm on my way to Oshkosh for my 18th
OK, your on.... I'll copy it and send it back. My address is:
Andy Gold
PO Box 270
Tabernash, CO 80478
Have fun at Oshkosh. I think I am going to miss it this year. My plane's
to new for a long trip (just 8.5 hrs TT so far) and I promissed myself to
stay away from the airlines once the RV was finished. Anyway, there are
lots of local shows coming up along with Van's homecoming.
Thanks again,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
charset="iso-8859-1"
I know that everyone on the list but me knows already, but what
is or was the "AirBeetle"?
Steve Soule
Uninformed in Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Nose Wheel Shimmy |
<< I also forgot to mention that most of us are probably using a $20.00 fish
scale made in Taiwan which is probably not real accurate. >>
I don't have a $20.00 fish scale. I'm thinking about using a 20# barbell
weight and some rope and a pully. I just have to make sure that I am pulling
straight sideways to the wheel.
Gene, cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Control Cables |
Listers,
I'm about to order my engine control cables from ACS, but I want any
feedback you have before I do that.
I've elected to buy the A-790 cables (one each for throttle, mixture,
and prop governor). These are the solid .078 stainless core cables.
I plan to just buy the 6' long ones, and cut to the correct length
after I mount the engine. I plan to use plain old 1/4" AN742 loop
clamps to secure the cables to Van's throttle/mixtre and prop
governor brackets. I plan to use "B" nuts from ACS to connect the
cable ends to the carb and prop governor. I'm also planning to use
three of the "Cable Safe" devices from ACS that secure the cable to
the firewall.
I'm going with the solid wire cables so that I can mount them to my
sub panel now, and cut them to length later when I hang the engine.
Any thoughts on my plans?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
The "R" and "L" on Slick magnetos means Right and Left hand rotation, not the
side of the engine it is mounted on.
Jim H. A&P-IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
Can anyone help me with a fax, drawing or e-mail attachment of the
correct placement
of the W-425 piece. This goes in my RV6A wing by the bellcrank.
Unfortunately, my
plans are older and do not include this part.
Thanks in advance
--
Rick Osgood
Hennipen Technical College
Eden Prairie, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Airport near Ashville, NC? |
Can anybody tell me what the airport that is the nearest to
Ashville NC? I'm specificaly looking for a good flight school.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: New Nose Wheel Shimmy |
A shimmy (variation of a resonance) may not be caused by an out of balance
component in a system, but it certainly could be exacerbated by an out of
balance condition. I agree that Steve's explanation probably does explain
the root cause of the shimmy, and continue to believe that balancing the
pant will tend to reduce the tendancy for a shimmy to develop (provided of
course that you can stand to carry the extra weight).
July 15, 1997 - July 25, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-dd