RV-Archive.digest.vol-de
July 25, 1997 - August 07, 1997
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Continuing error message |
I believe I can help with this problem. On your AOL main screen. Go into
your personal filing cabinet under files to download. Delete the offending
party into electron oblibivion. Problem solved.
The downside is you don't get to ever see the file
Tom Brown
RV4 - fuselage in jig, skinning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | N144KT First Flight! |
Add another RV-grin to the collection. I flew my RV-4 for the first time today.
Inspector came at 11, signed it off at 1PM, by the time I corrected a few
squawks and put everything back together again it was 6. All day long the
ceilings had been about 2,000 with a scattered to broken layer dipping
lower. About 6 the sky cleared! As this was definitely an omen it was time
to go flying.
How did it fly? - like all those wonderful adjectives everyone applies to RV's.
No major trim problems but the test period will fine tune everything.
Landing was no problem - learning to fly in a Champ has made the rudders
pedals my friend on landings.
A few statistics:
RV-4 N144KT
Empty weight: 955 (with full oil)
O-320-E2D - 150hp
Almar-Demuth prop.
VFR equipped with EGT,CHT, transponder, strobes, Duckworks landing lights (2),
Imron paint - BRIGHT red.
Got by with a 25 hour test period - plan to make the most of it starting
tomorrow.
Problem with right tank - I've got the Isspro senders (dumb move) - a leak
has developed around where the sender wire attaches. Got to remove the tank
to fix I'm afraid. Also, I has to drain the tank and now my drain leaks - I
suspect a bad O ring on the drain (probably dry rotted I took so long to build).
Anyone encountered problems in this area?
Thanks for the support - these are really SPECIAL airplanes....
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
You said--
Let them do their own mechanic work and then let an
> accident happen where faulty or inadequate maintenace is blamed and watch
the
> insurance company forget they ever heard of them. Tell them " a man at
the
> FAA " said it was okay. Then tell the FAA they said it was okay, then
let
> them tell the lawyers of the passengers widower that it is all okay.
Thin
> ice at best.
>
Listers,
I may be wrong about this but consider the following. Part 43 of the FAR's
describes rules governing maintenance. In other words, not the requirement
to do maintenance, but how, and who can do it. As previously stated, Part
43 does not in and of itself apply to aircraft in the experimental
category. Part 91 applies to all manned aircraft except ultralights.
Subpart E which applies to all US registered aircraft, describes the
requirements of what to perform and when to perform maintenance. Subpart E
then refers back to part 43, which then applies to experimental aircraft by
reference. This includes who is authorized to perform maintenance, and the
maintenance records required. 91.409 prescribes the exemption to
experimentals for the annual inspection, but all other paragraphs apply,
including the altimeter test for IFR.
This would mean of course that you can't legally perform maintenance on
your airplane beyond preventative maintenance, unless you had an A&P or
Repairmans certificate.
Also, keep in mind that modifications (i.e. changes in design, not repairs)
made to an experimental airplane after the FAA inspection for the issuance
of the Airworthiness Certificate, are to be reinspected by the FAA. For
example, this includes installing a different make/model prop. Everyone is
doing this right?
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
RV6 finishing the canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hint for connecting stereo to intercom |
My Flightcom 403 intercom stereo music input consists of a left
channel, a right channel, and a common ground. Every car stereo I
looked at says explicitly in the install instructions NOT to use a
common ground on the speakers.
I puchased a stereo with auxiliary RCA style outputs meant to be
used to feed a power amplifier. These are low power outputs (just
the right level for intercom music input), and they already have a
common ground. I hooked it all up today, works like a champ.
Tim
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airport near Asheville, NC? |
<< Can anybody tell me what the airport that is the nearest to
Asheville, NC? I'm specificaly looking for a good flight school. >>
Chris-
Asheville Regional is the one closest and the number for the Jet Center is
704-684-6832. They can probably give you info. Flight Instruction: CFI,
commercial, instrument and private are all available. This info all comes
from AOPA's 1997 Airport Directory, which you would have in your greasy mitts
at this very moment if you were only a card carrying member ;^).
Your Pal,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
A
>
>I'm 6'4" mostly torso. I had a chance to sit in W. Berry's gorgeous -6, he
>moved the F-605 cross member 3" back. What a difference in seating comfort
>compared to a standard -6, I finally fit perfectly in the airplane instead
>of being cramped up.
>
>Your mods sound great provided you are building the standard kit, I have the
>quickbuild so will only be unriveting the minimal items necessary.
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
>
I spent a lot of time making my plane fit too and would add that you should
carefully analyze the curvature to the canopy. For me there wasn't much to
gain by tilting the seat back because the canopy diminishes in height also.
I ended up taking 1 1/2" out of the seat ribs web and out of the
roll-bar(tilt-up) web. This simple change probably added a month to
building. Moving f-605 would be major work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
Thank you Dan Morris-------i.e., second hand homebuilts are not a way around
the FARS-------in order to get all the benifits of owning a homebuilt then
you must be the builder and have the Repairman Cert. Thanks, JRW.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N144KT First Flight! |
My drains dribble once in a while as the silt or whatever is in a new tank
gets caught in the o ring. I just jiggle and twirl it a couple times and it
stops. Probably a better idea would be to unscrew it and get the offending
crud out. Did that on one side and the dribble stopped.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N144KT First Flight! |
>Add another RV-grin to the collection. I flew my RV-4 for the first time
today.
>
>How did it fly? - like all those wonderful adjectives everyone applies to RV's.
>Richard E. Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT
>Oak Hill, VA
>rbibb(at)fore.com
Congradulations!!!! What a great feeling it must be!!
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N144KT First Flight! |
Well done, N144KT, and many happy hours of flying.
John C GDOC now up to 45 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | THeard5782(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airport near Ashville, NC? |
Several good flight schools here in Greenville, SC approx 1 hr from Ashville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
>I spent a lot of time making my plane fit too and would add that you should
>carefully analyze the curvature to the canopy. For me there wasn't much to
>gain by tilting the seat back because the canopy diminishes in height also.
>I ended up taking 1 1/2" out of the seat ribs web and out of the
>roll-bar(tilt-up) web. This simple change probably added a month to
>building. Moving f-605 would be major work.
Sorry, I should have stated this was on the sliding type canopy, where
moving F-605 back is relatively easy compared to the tip up.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Super Cavalier project... |
The Super Cavalier project I posted about a while back (with new IO-360,
etc.) can be seen at http://www.barnstormers.com/97042400.html.
If anyone purchases the project and does not want the panel (inst's and
radios), I claim "firsts" on them, please send e-mail.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
The EAA offered a different view: In the Experimenter and Sport Aviation,
articles appeared within the last year stating that "ANYONE" can repair a
homebuilt. I questioned the Experimenter article but the Sport Aviation
article was authored by Ben Owen if I recall correctly, and he is
knowledgeable in these areas. Any EAA staff on our list?
Dennis 6A fuselage (still) in jig
----------
> From: aol.com!JRWillJR(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: repairman's certificate/insurance
> Date: Saturday, July 26, 1997 1:22 AM
>
>
> Thank you Dan Morris-------i.e., second hand homebuilts are not a way
around
> the FARS-------in order to get all the benifits of owning a homebuilt
then
> you must be the builder and have the Repairman Cert. Thanks, JRW.
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> +--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate |
> Listers,
>
> I may be wrong about this but consider the following. Part 43 of the FAR's
> describes rules governing maintenance. In other words, not the requirement
> to do maintenance, but how, and who can do it. As previously stated, Part
> 43 does not in and of itself apply to aircraft in the experimental
> category. Part 91 applies to all manned aircraft except ultralights.
> Subpart E which applies to all US registered aircraft, describes the
> requirements of what to perform and when to perform maintenance. Subpart E
> then refers back to part 43, which then applies to experimental aircraft by
> reference. This includes who is authorized to perform maintenance, and the
> maintenance records required. 91.409 prescribes the exemption to
> experimentals for the annual inspection, but all other paragraphs apply,
> including the altimeter test for IFR.
>
> This would mean of course that you can't legally perform maintenance on
> your airplane beyond preventative maintenance, unless you had an A&P or
> Repairmans certificate.
>
Dan brings up an interesting line of reasoning. The FAR I believe
he is referring to is 91.403(b). It says "(b) No person may perform
maintenance, preventive maintenance, or alterations on an aircraft
other than as prescribed in this subpart and other applicable
regulations, including part 43 of this chapter."
So NOBODY (builder, A&P, AI, repairman, guy off the street) can do
any maintenance unless he/she does it as prescribed in in the
regulations. This is more restrictive than "don't break the law".
It says don't do ANY maintenance unless you do it in accordance with
some specific regulation. In other words, that which is not
authorized is prohibited.
91.405 says "Each owner or operator of an aircraft--
(a) Shall have that aircraft inspected as prescribed in subpart E
of this part and shall between required inspections, except as
provided in paragraph (c) of this section, have discrepancies
repaired as prescribed in part 43 of this chapter"
So 91.405 says repairs have to be done "as prescribed in part 43."
However, 43.1(b) explicitly says it does not apply to experimental
aircraft, so NO repair done to an experimental would be "repaired as
prescribed in part 43". Well that's no good. It implies there's no
legal way for ANYBODY to repair an experimental.
Even 65.104 is no help. It says "(b) The holder of a repairman
certificate (experimental aircraft builder) may perform condition
inspections on the aircraft constructed by the holder in accordace
with the operating limitations of that aircraft. " but it doesn't
authorize the repairman to do MAINTENANCE, just condition
inspections.
In conclusion, FAR 91.403(b) requires that maintenance be done only
"as prescribed" in the regs, but I can't find any FAR that
specifically prescribes maintenance on experimentals, whether by an
A&P, repairman, or guy off the street. This issue is more convoluted
that I thought. : (
Personally, I think I'll feel comfortable doing maintenance on my
RV using my repairman's certificate despite the ambivalent FARs. I
think I'll write AOPA and see what they have to say. Perhaps the FAA
has clarified this somewhere. Very interesting discussion to date.
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
Hello fellow RVers,
I have received a number of email's in recent days from members that have been
complaining that people arn't editting the old message when they reply
to a previous post. Of particular annoyance to some has been when
the "unsubscribe footer" is requoted one or more times in a followup message.
Let's all do our part at conserving the bandwidth and archive by aggressivly
editing the quoted text on followup messages. It only takes a second and
definately makes reading the message easier.
On a similar topic, I have received a couple of messages from people asking
if the "unsubscribe footer" was really necessary all the time. Based on
the huge reduction in my List workload since it was added, I'd say probably.
I used to receive many manual requests a week from people asking
to be unsubscribed (or subscribed) to the List. I would have to handle
these each by hand and often took a fair amount of time. Since adding the
footer to the outgoing posts, these requests have dropped to near zero!
Also, since there are anywhere from 10-30 new memebers added (and deleted)
to/from the List every week there seems to always a fresh crop of people
that don't know the methods.
Thanks for your assistance and support!
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N144KT First Flight! |
<< like all those wonderful adjectives everyone applies to RV's >>
Congrats to you! It sure helps hearing about completed RVs to keep my
"dream" going..
Hope to see you all at OSH. Will be there Thursday AM.
Richard Clayton
Brownsville, TX
(Flying a SPAM to OSH)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pricing info, new canopy. |
Please provide me the price for a new canopy bubble for my RV6 kit, as
well as crating and approximate shipping charges to Central NY. E Mail to
McManD(at)aol.com please. Although info of fixes too appreciated, while
the canopy is probably not salvagable. To say it is now a dark and gloomy
day in Central NY is an understatement. Leaving for Oshkosh Wednesday.....I
need a vacation....and a valium..or prozac..or perhaps a long walk off a
short pier? I'll be the guy with tears in my eyes as I eye the 250 planes in
the line up.
For interested parties, I guess here is how not to do it:
It was going just too well in my 84 degree garage today. In the front
corners as I was plexi drilling towards the front where the canopy frame's
side skirt outer skin will end and the fiberglass molding would take over,
when a large crack popped and grew as I sat and screamed. I had little
choice but to take the plexi drill I had in my hand and stop drill to keep
the darn thing from going off to the other side. I mean it just kept growing
in front on my eyes all by it self. Now it is .125" stop drilled @ 6" up
from canopy frame side, and back @ 1 inch from my dash "brow" skin, running
perpendictular towards the air craft's center line. It is on the pilot side
and quite obvious, where side skirt, fiber glass molding, glue fix and
sticker cover probably will not suffice?.
Canopy was duct tapped into position, frame's roll over portion had been
drilled and clecoed and I was working from the back end now, of side rails
down each side, then towards the front down each side rail. Drilling with a
#30 plexi drill, and then a (dulled on 3m wheel the flutes) 7/64th drill
through aluminum so as not to contact plexi as I drilled. I was going very
slow and cautiously, 3/32 clecoing every hole.
Totaly I had about 6 holes total left to go. Previously edges were smoothed
and flame treated. Originally this thing sat on this frame beautifully, and
was the second canopy I fitted to this point. (but the first one that I had
drilled). I see now that the crack does open up a gap at its lower edge,
thus the clecoed bubble is pulling down and the front canopy frame's big
sidewall downwards radius's contact surface is trying to lift up?. But only
in the radius side portions. The cut canopy edge front 5 inches from
centerline side/side is loose, perhaps lifting up too. Gapping less that
.100" though.
Theory? this grew as a result of the clecoing together and bubble once much
wider than fuselage and canopy frame, now going inward to meet the canopy
frame. The true fit got considerably worse as I proceeded forward. Thus?
One should watch the front edges from walking inward at the two major
radius's as they start to pinch/clamp and pre-load the plexi-glass. As I
found out appears to have happened, and I had the drill relieve rather
abruptly, unfortunately. In the plans reference note where to tape/push in
to check front fit, lower of the 3 arrows, on drawing in plans labeled
SK-57.
Which I did initialy. Taping will barely mimic the true clecoing loads?.
I never thought that considerable re-trimming and fitting would be required
as the clecoing phase was progressing, and thus changing the way the bubble
realy fit. Or ?
Dave McManmon
McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryon T. Maynard" <bmaynard(at)communique.net> |
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
Wesley T Robinson wrote:
>
>
> I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I get
> one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any suggestions?
>
> Wesley
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> +-- --+
home depot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N144KT First Flight! |
I did drain the tank and unscrew the drain plug. The O ring was shot. It
was so worn it allowed the plunger to retract too far. A new O ring solved
that problem. Resealed the sender seal as well and I'm waiting for the
gasket sealer to set overnight before I fill it that high. Hope that solved
that leak so I won't have to remove the tank.
Balky A/S indicator giving me fits and push to talk switch gone bad as well.
Other than that it flies great.
>
>My drains dribble once in a while as the silt or whatever is in a new tank
>gets caught in the o ring. I just jiggle and twirl it a couple times and it
>stops. Probably a better idea would be to unscrew it and get the offending
>crud out. Did that on one side and the dribble stopped.
>
>
Richard E. Bibb Direct: 301-571-2507
Vice President, Federal Operations Main: 301-564-4404
Fore Systems Federal, Inc. FAX: 301-564-4408
6905 Rockledge Drive, #800 Pager: 800-719-1246
Bethesda, MD 20817 www.fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: W 425 placement |
The W425 ( Part number was W625 in my plans before revision but was
renumbered to W425 as a part that was common between the RV-4 and RV-6
wings.) fits against the rear spar at station 79.25, just outboard of where
the aileron pushrod goes through the spar. It is a stub rib that stands
perpendicular to the rear spar as well as the top and bottom skins. This is
shown on my RV-6/6A dwg 10. My drawings are three years old and have had some
revisions, but I am not aware of any changes in this part or its placement.
It fit my pre-punched wing skins perfectly.
Bob Tinnell
Salem OR
RV-6A #22303 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
m>
>
> I know that everyone on the list but me knows already, but what
>is or was the "AirBeetle"?
>
> Steve Soule
> Uninformed in Huntington, Vermont
Gee I don't either, Steve.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Continuing error message |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Bob,
Go to your download file manager and eliminate the file....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV (Working on second RV-6A - Chevy
Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Each time I download another batch of e-mail I keep getting, as the very
last
>message in the list of incoming mail, the following message.
"RV-List:Rudder
>Fitting:File Open error caused download failure." Can something be done
to
>eliminate the offending message from those being sent ? This message has
been
>there for about a week now and it is really getting annoying. I cannot
do
>anything on this end to eliminate it and I wonder if it has caused the
e-mail
>download to abort before all the mail has been delivered.
>
>Bob Tinnell
>RV-6A wings
>
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Nose Wheel Shimmy |
Steve
Thanks for the analysis and input - it makes a lot of sense and nothing else
I have tried helps much. I am going to try this right away!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Heat shielding fuel lines. |
>I had occasion to travel to PHX last week, and this proved to be a severe
>test of my abilities to start and keep a F.I. a/c engine running...
Yes, those of us living here in Phoenix, Arizona have a unique set of
problems to deal with:
1. we ALWAYS have enough cabin heat
2. Our oil temps are NEVER too low.
3. Vinyl seats are a no-no
4. highly fine-tuned hot-starting techniques
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
electrical and Avionics finished
engine due back from Lycon in 2 weeks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Airport near Asheville, NC? |
I'm an AOPA member, and I don't have an 1997 airport directory. hmmm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Read... |
Hi Matt! Great job this this list, tons of info.
My only (small) complaint is that for some reason some answers are sent
to the list in response to someone else's question/post w/o referencing ANY
of that original post. That puts the rest of us in the frustrating position
of
downloading what looks to be an interesting and informative answer to a
question, but w/o any way of knowing what that original question was.
For what it's worth...
Andy C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I'm working on the canopy on my -4 this week. I have the canopy clecoed
to the frame and am started to fit the skirts. I can't describe how
nervous I am about cracking it. I have heard some listers talk about
stress relieving the edges by heating with a small torch. At what stage
should this be done? By the way, I tested a torch on the old canopy and
they definitely will burn. Any info appreciated. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Control Cables (and Other Stuff) |
Tim-
Please forgive the syntax as I'm just typing this out stream of conciousness.
All of the stories I have heard concerning breaking control cables have been
of the solid wire and B-nut arrangement, so at least anecdotally this bodes
ill for your proposed approach. I used the 10-32 threaded end cables from
ACS for the throttle (48" long), mixture (45" long) and governor (60" long)
because they best met my needs and I knew where to get teleflex clamps
(Airstar). I am using the solid cable types (ACS A-740) only for carb heat,
cabin heat (2) and parking brake. I am spring loading the throttle open,
mixture rich, oil cooler door open and alternate air door closed, in the
event that any cable breaks in flight. The governor is already spring loaded
to high rpm mode.
I designed my own throttle/mixture and governor brackets (I sent you copies).
I designed a three gang firewall grommet shield for the alternate air
(bottom), mixture (middle) and throttle (top) so that I could place them
closely in their optimum locations along the right side of the battery cover.
The throttle, mixture and governor cables from ACS have 1.375" dia knobs and
1" (flat to flat) hex mounting nuts on the exposed face fitting. The A-800
throttle friction type control mounts in a 1/2" dia hole with a 1/2"-20 nut.
I used an AN924-5D nut to save weight. The A-750 mixture and governor
controls mount in 3/4" dia holes with 3/4"-16 nuts (AN924-8D). The governor
cable penetrates the left bay above the horizontal angle in order to loop
down nicely into the governor. I got the olefin sheathed option on my cables
because it looks more finished and the diameter over the sheathing is
approximately .275" (I used grommets for 1/4" ID in the 3-gang shield).
I think that a comfortable spacing of these controls from one another is
obtained by mounting on 3" centers. I strengthened the center of the
instrument panel so that I could dispense with the center console and instead
used a 7.5" length of 1.5" X 1" X .125" thk angle with the cable mounting
holes in the 1.5" face, attached to the underside flange of the instrument
panel. I built a three gang clamp to support the rigid cylindrical portion
of the cables under the panel. It is rock solid.
BTW, battery terminals on the Concorde RG-25 are 5/16"-18 (same as the
Cole-Hersee master and starter contactors). I used 4 AWG airframe wire for
all the big stuff.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Super Cavalier project... |
I just checked out the web page Rob referenced. It looks like it's a
"160hp" Lycoming engine. I've never heard of a 160hp version of an IO-360
so I'm guessing it must be some variation on an -320. Too bad, I thought I
might have had a line on an engine for my RV-8.
BTW... don't everybody jump on me and say 160hp will be just fine. I'm
"slightly" larger than the FAA's standard person and summer density
altitudes around here often exceed 8000'. I'm going to have at least 200hp.
PERIOD.
Happy flying. :-)
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033, rudder stiffners installed. Plodding along.
----------
> From: r.acker <ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Super Cavalier project...
> Date: Saturday, July 26, 1997 9:55 AM
>
>
> The Super Cavalier project I posted about a while back (with new IO-360,
> etc.) can be seen at http://www.barnstormers.com/97042400.html.
>
> If anyone purchases the project and does not want the panel (inst's and
> radios), I claim "firsts" on them, please send e-mail.
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
George McNutt quite correctly advises: "You could theroretically go
220+ Kts at 23,000 ft in a Turbo RV-6 and tha=
t
sounds great but going west you will have greater headwinds at
altitude, =
be
above the freezing level year round (ice), spend more time and fuel
in
climb etc, etc.
=
To gain any practical advantage over a comparable non turbo aircraft,
you=
would have to be consistantly flying long legs (250 + N.M.). "
My two cents: I owned a Turbo 210 for more than 5 years, flying
frequent trips of 400-500 nm with some longer legs. The number of
times I flew at flight levels or put on the oxygen mask was maybe
four or five times. The block to block time advantages of going up
where the cruise speed was 200+knots were very small or non-existent,
and the O2 mask was uncomfortable and refilling the built in oxygen
tank another chore and another expense.
There was one advantage to the Turbo, however: getting in and out of
high altitude airports and high density altitude situations: there
were a lot of trips to Lake Tahoe on hot summer days I couldn't (or
wouldn't) have made in a non-turbo aircraft.
I don't buy the story that some pilots tell that turbo-charged
engines wear out sooner than their non-turbocharged brethren. Our
plane went to TBO twice, probably because it was flown with care not
to overboost or shock cool, and had oil changes that were religiious
experiences.
George
RV-8 SN 80006
Fuel tank ready for rivetting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pricing info, new canopy. |
aol.com!McManD(at)matronics.com wrote:
**Much text about broken canopy aggressively edited.**
>
>Previously edges were smoothed and flame treated.
I have seen this post about flame polishing the edges before
and I have a problem with it. I am a glassblower and we use flame
to fire polish the edges of quartz glass for furnace tubes etc.
for high tech companies. I realize quartz is not Plexiglas but
whenever we flame polish the edges of glass it puts a tremendous
amount of stress and strain in the glass which will cause it
to break very easy if the whole part is not annealed.
I don't know if this has anything to do with causing the canopy
to break but you are not the first one I have heard of that
had a broken canopy after flame polishing the edges.
IMHO all you should have to do is smooth the edges and use
some fine sandpaper to get it smoother is you wish.
*Keep in mind this is just my opinion.*
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: repairman's certificate/insurance |
And the repairman certificate is good only for THAT particular airplane - say
an RV-6- and NOT for an identical aircraft - another RV-6 built by your
neighbor right alongside you in your own garage.
Bob (not an EAA staff person, however)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
I believe the Air Beetle is a modified RV6a that was built for the
Nigerian Air Force as a trainer. Several were built (20 I think) and
they had taller canopies, belly speed brakes, and a stronger landing
gear.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pricing info, new canopy. |
aol.com!McManD(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Theory? this grew as a result of the clecoing together and bubble
> once much wider than fuselage and canopy frame, now going inward to meet the
> canopy frame. The true fit got considerably worse as I proceeded forward.
> Thus? One should watch the front edges from walking inward at the two major
> radius's as they start to pinch/clamp and pre-load the plexi-glass.
> As I found out appears to have happened, and I had the drill relieve
> rather abruptly, unfortunately. In the plans reference note where to
> tape/push in to check front fit, lower of the 3 arrows, on drawing in plans
> labeled SK-57.
>
> Which I did initialy. Taping will barely mimic the true clecoing
> loads?. I never thought that considerable re-trimming and fitting would be
> required as the clecoing phase was progressing, and thus changing the way the
> bubble realy fit. Or ?
>
> Dave McManmon
> McManD(at)aol.com
>
Dave, hi
I wouldn't try to drill or cut the plexi while it is under ANY stress
from clecos, or tape. Drilling should only be done in the totally
relaxed state, you and the canopy.
Is that the way the plans say to do it? if so, it's no wonder people
have trouble with cracks forming.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
<33D4E6B6.136F(at)twave.net>
Hi,
Both Avery and Cleavland have them - in the $121 125 range.
Bruce Knoll
>
>Wesley T Robinson wrote:
>>
>>
>> I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I get
>> one? The AS&S catalog did not have one in it. Any suggestions?
>>
>> Wesley
>>
>> +--
--+
>> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com |
>> | ---
|
>> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
>> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
>> +--
--+
>home depot
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
>> I know that everyone on the list but me knows already, but what
>>is or was the "AirBeetle"?
> Gee I don't either, Steve.
>Have a good one!
>
Steve and Denny;
I was waiting for someone else to answer this, but no soap.
The Airbeatle is the a/c that Vans provided for the Nigerian (?) Air
Force. It was a somewhat modified RV6A and was built in Nigeria by
Nigerians with supervision by people that worked by contract to Vans. There
is some one on the list I think that was over there, so they can provide
more accurate details.
When my Air Force magazine issue with the aircraft of the nations of the
world came out and there was an RV6A looking aircraft in it, I sent the copy
to Vans. Yep! There was our RV series aircraft right in there with all of
Russian, American French English etc. fighters and trainers. Big Time!
It also lead to some discussion as to the possibility of The RVs being in
the war planes section at Osk.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: digital level |
>> I am looking for a digital level to level my fuse jig. Where might I get
Call 800 762-7853. They will tell you a distributor near your and give you
a phone number to order one. I just ordered one Friday for mounting control
surfaces.
Ron Calhoun
Palestine, Tx
RV-4 Installing engine, instruments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
(datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com)
| Subject: | Re: Airport near Asheville, NC? |
> I'm an AOPA member, and I don't have an 1997 airport directory. hmmm.
I got mine what seems like a couple of months ago.
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
>>
>> I know that everyone on the list but me knows already, but what
>>is or was the "AirBeetle"?
>>
I've written a couple of notes in the past on the AirBeetle. Unfortunately I don'thave
them
anymore. If you do a search on the archives you should be able to find them...if
you can't, let me
know.
Basically the 'Beetle was a modified '6A built in Nigeria for the Nigerian Air
Force as a basic
trainer.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Heat shielding fuel lines. |
Dave Barnhart writes:
>Yes, those of us living here in Phoenix, Arizona have a unique set of
>problems to deal with:
>1. we ALWAYS have enough cabin heat
>2. Our oil temps are NEVER too low.
>3. Vinyl seats are a no-no
>4. highly fine-tuned hot-starting techniques
Yup, also
No heat muffs required
No engine heaters
Your Temperfoam seats are never rock hard
No heated socks
No snow clearing just to get to the airplane
No fuel line icing
No having to remove wheel pants to get out the sludge
I'll trade you!!
Ken RV6A Flying in Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>The W425 ( Part number was W625 in my plans before revision but was
renumbered to W425 as a part that was common between the RV-4 and RV-6
wings.) fits against the rear spar at station 79.25, just outboard of where
the aileron pushrod goes through the spar. It is a stub rib that stands
perpendicular to the rear spar as well as the top and bottom skins. This is
shown on my RV-6/6A dwg 10. My drawings are three years old and have had some
revisions, but I am not aware of any changes in this part or its placement.
It fit my pre-punched wing skins perfectly.<
>Bob Tinnell
>Salem OR
>RV-6A #22303 wings
You had me worried. I don't have a stub rib in my RV-4 wings, and I had to
check my plans to see if I somehow missed it. My 2 year old review plans
set doesn't show it either. It makes me wonder why Van's would renumber
W625 to W425 as being common to both the -4 and -6/6A. Isn't there a slightly
different relationship in the inboard aileron hinge locations between the -4
and the -6, necessitating the stub rib in the -6?
Or was there a late retrofit?
Darrell Anderson
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Heat shielding fuel lines. |
Dave Barnhart wrote:
>
>
> >I had occasion to travel to PHX last week, and this proved to be a severe
> >test of my abilities to start and keep a F.I. a/c engine running...
>
> Yes, those of us living here in Phoenix, Arizona have a unique set of
> problems to deal with:
>
> 1. we ALWAYS have enough cabin heat
> 2. Our oil temps are NEVER too low.
> 3. Vinyl seats are a no-no
> 4. highly fine-tuned hot-starting techniques
Hey Dave, could you elaborate on "highly fine-tuned hot-starting"
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Cracked Canopy part II |
Michael,
Oh I forgot to tell you I flamed mine after cutting and sanding the cut
face perpendicular as well as sanding in a slight bevel on each edge, and yes
I burned a portion of it as I had worked well past that point. I screamed
loud enough you should have heard me in MO. Although fiberglass will cover
my screw up there.
But now I got the the crack................. Flaming I highly recommend,
for what my guidance is worth.. Both after initial fitting, and as I
previously described watch for movement in clecoing/drilling on to frame,
should you need to trim more, do it there's where I screwed up first.
Second screw up: under no circumstances would I drill (or flame) plexi in
a stressed state. I was proceeding along like it was a alum skin fitting. I
was holding it down to the frame, but I surely now see the bubble didn't like
the stress/drilling at the same time.
Drill your holes one at a time in plexi, clecoing up as you go, check the
fit, pen mark the next hole, pull all clecos out, free up the bubble from the
frame, and while holding it locally, drill slowly, let (plexi) drill melt
through, re-cleco bubble back down to frame and then drill through the metal,
check, mark next, tear apart, drill, and on and on repeat....down the sides
to the front. (RV6 tip up, others?)
But re: flaming, specifically flaming was easy and fast, practice on
scrap.. Use good light and watch for it to change color, from sanding marks
sort of turn to water clear dark colored. Watch your flame!!!! YES The
plexi will catch fire. Mine did in the lower 90 degree corner. @ at roll
over hoop where it mounts to longeron. Rub it every couple of inches with
your clean hands, this to make sure it is out and aid eyes while looking
else where. Your touch-feel perception tells you that it is not so hot that
it's on fire or even close. Eventually I found that touch was best way to
monitor progress. It will immediately flash fire as you initially torch it.
It burns rather clean so watch out, that is flame is light colored, if you
see soot like I did, take heed, it's burning!!!.
Practice making some burn too!! See, feel, sense what happens when you go
to far. Practice on scrap to get the feel, and then go for it, for when
you're done it's as smooth as heck, and worth the risk.(?)
Signed, David McManmon, RV6 building, still wondering what I missed in the
plans? And for obvious reasons staying away from the plane playing on the
Internet for now..... McManD(at)aol.com
Ps: I was planning all along to give a canopy building presentation at
Oswego NY's, EAA chapter 486's 3rd annual RV forum this September... I
sure have experienced it all now haven't I, (I hope).................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
I have an airspeed indicator made by Edo-Aire, which I understand is
owned now by Sigma-Tek, that was part of a experimental I parted out. My
problem is that the speed limit markings located under the glass are not
RV-6 speeds. I'm guessing that it would have to be sent back to change the
markings or the face. Or ?
Has anyone had any experience or expertise in this area?
Just trying to save a few hundred!
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
>> I know that everyone on the list but me knows already, but what
>>is or was the "AirBeetle"?
>> Steve Soule
Gee I don't either, Steve.
>Denny,
> RV-6 (R)N641DH
I know that there are a lot more informed people than me on this subject
(Ken :-) ) but I'll just let you know in case no one else bothers. The
Air Beetle was a bunch of RV-6A kits sold to the Nigerian Government for
early flight training of their Air Farce. Several US citizens went to
Nigeria to help assemble the kits and their were a number of modifications
to the standard aircraft. (Spring steel gear..etc...) As far as I know the
whole operation was a complete success. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N144KT First Flight! |
Congratulations on the completion of your RV. I can "see" your smile written
all over the computer screen. This may give me more incentive to get out in
the garage and get back to work.
Bob Tinnell
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pricing info, new canopy. |
Jerry,
I concur with your analysis. In the plastics industry flame polishing
(a.k.a. fire polishing) is used as a cheap, fast way to deburr edges. It
is not intended to stress relieve, and indeed usually introduces more
stress.
The stress in plastic can be visualized very easily and vividly with
crossed polarizers, as with glass. I believe Edmund Scientific has them
for "hobby" use.
I was able to fuse an edge crack in my Old's landing light lens by
carefully flaming it to just beyond the softening point and gently
annealing it down with a propane torch. I don't recommend this technique
but if a builder has nothing to lose he might give it a try. Anyone who gas
welds or silver solders has the right kind of background. The temperature
latitude in acrylic plastic between gentle fusing and melting/total
destruction is of the order of 50 F degrees so this is touchy work!
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: Jerry Springer <ix.netcom.com!jsflyrv(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pricing info, new canopy.
> Date: Saturday, July 26, 1997 11:10 PM
>
>
> aol.com!McManD(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> **Much text about broken canopy aggressively edited.**
> >
> >Previously edges were smoothed and flame treated.
>
> I have seen this post about flame polishing the edges before
> and I have a problem with it. I am a glassblower and we use flame
> to fire polish the edges of quartz glass for furnace tubes etc.
> for high tech companies. I realize quartz is not Plexiglas but
> whenever we flame polish the edges of glass it puts a tremendous
> amount of stress and strain in the glass which will cause it
> to break very easy if the whole part is not annealed.
> Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
> jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Pricing info, new canopy. |
Phil Arter wrote
> I wouldn't try to drill or cut the plexi while it is under ANY stress
> from clecos, or tape. Drilling should only be done in the totally
> relaxed state, you and the canopy.
I think Phil is onto something here - the key is relaxation. That said, here
are the prerequisites for achieving perfect canopy drilling and cutting.
#1. Incense. Lots and lots of incense.
#2. Breathing mask (should be rated for vapours). See #1.
#3. Candles. Or incensed candles. (make sure all thinners are tightly sealed
first).
#4. Whale music. Or Womb music. Any mood tape, in fact. Some Dire Straits
or Lou Reed will do in a pinch, but you have to select a slower drill speed.
#5. Chanting mantras is good. Something like "Ohmmmm" or , alternately,
"pleasesdon'tcrackpleasedon'tcrack".
#6. Clothing optional. Many fine canopies have been drilled armed only with
a drill and a smile. Not recommended for those in colder realms unless you
have lots and lots of rugs. If you do opt for the 'au natural' approach,
bear in mind where the perspex chaff might end up.
#7, Talk to your canopy. Explain in advance each step, what you are going
to do, being sure to reaffirm your calm with each explanation. Something
like "now, I'm going to drill this hole very serenely" or "now I am going to
cleco this hole with the utmost calm" or even "now I am going to order
another canopy from Van's because you cracked, you stupid @%&^#& thing!"
*grin*
Chris Hinch
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
RV-8 soon to be started.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>I'm working on the canopy on my -4 this week. I have the canopy clecoed
>to the frame and am started to fit the skirts. I can't describe how
>nervous I am about cracking it. I have heard some listers talk about
>stress relieving the edges by heating with a small torch.
There are two very useful pieces of writing that helped me greatly with
canopy fitting.
The first is James Cone's description of his canopy fitting in his
newsletter (Canopy, Oh my canopy; parts 1 and 2). I'm sure Jim will have
back copies if you ask nicely.
The second is Frank Justice's instructions that are available from the Hovan
web site (links from Van's site). Frank's instructions are particularly good
for his sequencing of drilling which
helps you avoid progressive deformation and resultant disaster.
The other really useful tip (via Randall Henderson I think) was from Van's
prototype builder: get outside underneath the canopy frame and jiggle it
underneath the bubble to find best fit before you start anything. This also
amuses the neighbours if you do it in the front yard.
I stress relieved with files and sand paper so I can't comment on the flame
method but I did get MANY plexi cuts so the no hands technique sounds
attractive. There is a particular burning quality to plexiglass cuts that
only RV builders really appreciate.
Overall I found canopy fitting a lot of fun ( no ... I mean it ) would do
it again in a shot if someone would do all my fibreglassing for me.
Cheers,
Leo Davies.
RV 6A
Fitting intersection fairings to gear..... bah humbug.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MVany93777(at)aol.com |
SUBSCRIBE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV building and marital harmony |
Greetings fellow RV fans,
The definition of marital compatability: still being on speaking terms
with each other AFTER your wife's arm has been buried in an RV-8
stabilizer holding a bucking bar all day!
Yikes! I had no idea how much of a chore it was going to be! Nor, did
she! *laughing hysterically*. Anyway, we made it..only a few
"smileys"...looks airworthy to me! Now, on to the vert.
stabilizer...PLEASE tell me it isn't as bad! Keep up the good work,
folks...so I'm not the only one who's certifiably nuts!
Flyin' Brian Denk
IAC, AOPA, FAA, IMAC, AMA, IMAA, and a partidge in a pear tree.
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN CRATE" <JOHN.CRATE(at)encode.com> |
| Subject: | MAC SERVO(Elevator Trim) |
Hi,
I need the drawings showing how to install the Mac Servo in a RV-6. If
anyone could help, could you please respond off list?
Thanks!
John Crate
RV-6
(Empennage nearing completion)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Off to Oshkosh/RV-6A Forum Presentation |
I am off to Oshkosh with my wonderful RV-6A. It is red, white, and blue and
has my name on the canopy rail. I am so proud of it, even though it has no
chance to win any awards. It has lived up to my greatest expectations and
has provided many hours of fun flying so far. It is the best plane that I
ever built and so it is number one in my book, even though it won't win an
award. It has enough flaws to make it fun to fly without worrying about
every little thing that could detract from show plane status. I will be back
on Wednesday, August 6th. If you have any mail regarding my newsletter,
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing, I will answer your E-mails when I get back,
unless my mail box gets too full and I get kicked off the list. If you don't
hear from me by the 7th, send me another E-mail.
As part of the EAA Flight Advisor program, I will be giving a forum entitled "
FIRST FLIGHTS IN AN RV-6A" at 11:30 AM on Saturday in Tent 7. I will be
talking about the flight advisor program and my experiences with my flight
testing program in my plane. There will be lots of time for Q & A after my
prepared remarks. Bring your questions and I will do my best to answer them.
I will also be working at Van's booth and/or the hospitality tent at various
times and hope to see you there.
Blue skies and tailwinds,
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
> I was waiting for someone else to answer this, but no soap.
> The Airbeatle is the a/c that Vans provided for the Nigerian (?) Air
>Force.
Thanks! I knew about the trainers, but I didn't know they were
called "Air Beetle". I guess we will have to be on our toes if other Air
Forces have them Too!
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | brietiga(at)ix.netcom.com |
Does anyone know of a quick and dirty way remove the gell coating from
Van's fiberglass parts? My fingers are about to go on strick!! (and I'm
almost out of sand paper.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | no, the other left! |
With fire extinguisher at hand I got ready for the first crank of the prop
only to hear the ratcheting sound of the starter trying to engage. After
tearing it apart I discovered that it was actually rotating the wrong
direction, even tho the Bendix drive seemed to have the correct helix
grooves. Since I bought this used out of the RVator I didn't immediately
jump to the conclusion that someone had unloaded some weird counter-rotating
twin engine starter on me. Even the "old" guys at the airport didn't know
about this when I discovered that on the back end of the Presto-lite starter
can be a "L" & "R" and rotating the back end 90 degrees moves the brushes,
reversing rotation. Now you, too, can say "heck, everyone knows that!"
kevin- recovering from a weekend attack by the magneto bandito
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Firstborn is for sale |
My RV-6, N16JA, is for sale. There I said it and the world didn't end; I've
only got a small lip quiver. I haven't been flying it enough and I really
want to explore the alternative engine regime. The Lycoming engine is
probably the best engine for the RV but I keep thinking that alternatives
like the Chevy Vortec V-6 or even the Subaru have great potential.
N16JA is equipped with a Lycoming O-320, E2A, 150 HP engine. It has an
Irlbeck (clone of the Pacesetter) 68 x 69 prop. The more astute readers may
note that this prop is really intended for the 160 engine. I found that the
68 x 66 Pacesetter I originally had on N16JA would run up to 2900 RPM; the
68 x 69 tops out at 2750 RPM.
It is equipped with a VAL 760 Comm, Narco Transponder, ACK ELT, IIMorrow
Loran, Electronics International EGT/CHT, Electronics International
Ammeter/Voltmeter, Fuel Flow monitors on each tank (I am really anal
retentive and like to know EXACTLY how much fuel I have), it also is
equipped with the Oberg oil filter.
The engine is about 650 SMOH and the airframe is about 220 TT.
It has electric trim on the elevator and manual trim on the ailerons.
What's it worth? Hard to say but I'm asking $48,000. I might bargain but
then I might decide not to sell, too.
It's located at Paine Field near Everett, Washington.
You can call me at 206-525-5445 evenings between 6:00 and 8:00 Pacific
daylight time or use email at ammeterj(at)seanet.com.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Lewman <lewman(at)wt.net> |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> m>
> >
> > I know that everyone on the list but me knows already, but
> what
> >is or was the "AirBeetle"?
Denny,
The best I recall, the "AirBeetle" was the name of the RV6T's that
were built as trainers for the Nigerian Air Force. Van's homepage has a
link to information about this project. Or try going direct to
http://www.vansaircraft.com/sections/spe-naf.htm.
Jim Lewman
Houston, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh Dorm Room Available |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
I have just again been privileged with a short-notice change of plans,
courtesy USAF, and cannot attend Oshkosh this year.
I have a dorm room with two beds reserved at Lawrence University in
Appleton for the nights of 29, 30, and 31 Jul (Tuesday, Wednesday, and
Thursday nights).
This room is available to the first person who asks for it. My deposit
is gone, so you get one night free, and pay $29 per night for the
remaining two nights. If you e-mail me directly, I will give you the
remaining details and notify the university of the name change.
Still doing cowl and fairing fiberglass work.
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: W 425 placement |
Darrell,
<<
You had me worried. I don't have a stub rib in my RV-4 wings, and I had to
check my plans to see if I somehow missed it. My 2 year old review plans
set doesn't show it either. It makes me wonder why Van's would renumber
W625 to W425 as being common to both the -4 and -6/6A. Isn't there a
slightly
different relationship in the inboard aileron hinge locations between the -4
and the -6, necessitating the stub rib in the -6?
Or was there a late retrofit?
>>
I may not be correct about the reason for the W625 being renumbered to W425,
but I do remember picking up that change in an RV-Ator (or on a packing
list?) a couple of years back and I made the change on my RV-6A plans. Since
I have never built an RV-4 I shouldn't have made the statement the way I did.
The reason given for the change, as I recall, was something like "commonality
of parts". As I recall there were several parts that were renumbered for the
same reason and my kit had several parts numbered W4XX where the plans
originally called for W6XX. Without going to the garage to look right now, I
think that was true for all the ribs, among other parts. From this I made the
apparent erroneous assumption that the RV-4 had the same part in its wing.
Sorry to have caused you to take pause.
Bob Tinnell
Salem, OR
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
George wrote:
>
>
>My two cents: I owned a Turbo 210 for more than 5 years, flying
>frequent trips of 400-500 nm with some longer legs. The number of
>times I flew at flight levels or put on the oxygen mask was maybe
>four or five times. The block to block time advantages of going up
>where the cruise speed was 200+knots were very small or non-existent,
>and the O2 mask was uncomfortable and refilling the built in oxygen
>tank another chore and another expense.
>
>There was one advantage to the Turbo, however: getting in and out of
>high altitude airports and high density altitude situations: there
>were a lot of trips to Lake Tahoe on hot summer days I couldn't (or
>wouldn't) have made in a non-turbo aircraft.
A very interesting topic for me, as I was planning on installing an
oxygen system in my RV-8. With the rate of climb I will be getting on
200 hp, I doubt I will have to be too concerned about density altitude,
but I was under the impression that high altitude capability would be
useful for getting above the weather. Is this a misconception?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
Left wing about to go into the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
Someone wrote:
1. It was a somewhat modified RV6A and was built in Nigeria by
Nigerians with supervision by people that worked by contract to Vans.
Someone else wrote:
<2. some US citizens wenrt out to supervise>
Just to clear up a couple of points.
1. No one was contracted to Van's. Everyone worked for a company called AIEP in
Kaduna that was a
joint venture between Dornier and a Nigerian company.
2. There were also Canadians, (two of us were in the first "batch" of 5 ex pats
to go out). There
were already two Brits and an Indian working on the prototypes and the first production
version.
60 were built.
Ken RV6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Dr John Cocker wrote:
>
> John C GDOC now up to 45 hours
Say what? You must have a job in the publishing industry. I take great
pride on the fact that I have over 70 hours on C-GZRV. But I think you
are going to beat me time wise. How about a contest? Lets see who flys
the most hours in one year starting now. Loser buys a bottle of fine
wine for the winner.
It really is good to hear you are flying your machine. Sorry I missed
the flyout in Brantford, as I wanted to see your baby. I will be at
Oshkosh though (still unpainted -- but possibly interior finished).
I changed jobs about a month ago, so you may want to update your
records. (800) 278-0018 #235 will ring at my desk.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen" <clevtool(at)tdsi.net> |
| Subject: | dorm room for Oshkosh |
There is one doom room available for Thurs, Fri, Sat, & Sun nights at the
Ripon college dorm.
Please contact: Steward & Rita Baylor at 219-534-5329
Thanks,
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
1-800-368-1822
clevtool(at)tdsi.net
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Send it to any good instrument shop like Kelley or Century and they can
silkscreen a new face for you. Century did mine and it looks real good.
Sorry I don't remember the cost but it wasn't too bad.
Rick McBride
rickrv6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: RV building and marital harmony |
The definition of marital compatability: still being on speaking terms
with each other AFTER your wife's arm has been buried in an RV-8
stabilizer holding a bucking bar all day!
Yikes! I had no idea how much of a chore it was going to be! Nor, did
she! *laughing hysterically*. Anyway, we made it..only a few
I remember it feeling like a chore at first.
After a while though (probably after the tail kit) it became an easy chore as I
got better at
rivetting. I was then able to let my mind wander and to some extent, relax while
I was doing
it...probably a bit like knitting!!
I actually miss the process as it allowed me to get rid of the stresses of theday.
Anyway, there's LOTS left so its better that you enjoy it ;-)
Good luck.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airport near Asheville, NC? |
>
> Asheville Regional is the one closest and the number for the Jet Center is
> 704-684-6832. They can probably give you info. Flight Instruction: CFI,
> commercial, instrument and private are all available. This info all comes
> from AOPA's 1997 Airport Directory, which you would have in your greasy mitts
> at this very moment if you were only a card carrying member ;^).
>
> Your Pal,
> -GV
Sorry I don't carry the card. If I carried all of the cards that all of the
orgs that I belong to, my posture would be even worse than it is. Let's see,
AOPA, EAA, NRA, GOA, GOC, ISIL, FIJA, JPFO, DIRP to name a few.
I have also never seen my copy of the AD, even though they promise to send it
every year. I have considered calling and complaining but I don't have time
to chase bogies like this. That's why I keep people like you around.
In any case, thanks for the info. My boss is retiring to NC, and he needs to
get back into airplanes. He hasn't flow for about 20 years. He's way over
due.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Denny, I have been watching for a reply to your question and have seen
none. I noticed the same thing when I fit my rollbar. I went and looked
at two other tip-ups in the area as well as the plans page 22. They all
show the rise in height between the projected line of the top of the rear
bulkheads and the rollbar. I fit mine as per plans page 39, 17 7/8" height
of rollbar with a 2 7/8" tilt back from perpendicular.
BTW. I organize a once a month meeting of the RV builders in Eugene on the
first Monday of the month if you are interested.
Ross Mickey
6-A -Fitting top skins fuse
rmickey@ix,netcom.com
> I've got a question on the height of roll bar. I have checked the height
> via a projected line up the fuselage formers and it appears as the roll
bar
> is about a inch and a quarter above this projected line. Looking at many
> past gathering photos I have taken the roll bar looks too high in
> comparison. The roll bar measures the correct according to the plans.
>
> Was this height increased with the new one canopy fits the tip
and
> slide?
> Denny, RV-6 (R)N641DH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>
>Does anyone know of a quick and dirty way remove the gell coating from
>Van's fiberglass parts? My fingers are about to go on strick!! (and I'm
>almost out of sand paper.)
For an area such as where you're going to bond the cowl scoop, for
instance, I use the two inch sanding discs on a mandrel (Avery), chucked in
a cheap, air-driven right angle drill (Harbor Freight). In fact, you can
use this set up even on areas that will be exposed if you are very careful
and use two hands. It takes a very light touch to keep from gouging the
surface and turning it into a wash board but it can be done. For some
applications, I'll remove most of the gellcoat with the air drill and go the
remaining amount with coarse sandpaper.
Don't forget the mask.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau +1 +1 908 957 6611) |
Van's also has a description of the Nigerian Project on the Web Site !!
Paul M. Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
732-957-6611
RV-6A Empennage - Drilling HS-610 and 614 to Front Spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bobh(at)cdac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Pedal Angle |
The following was printed this week in AVweb's news letter.
Kosta Assalanis died last week while landing his RV4 in Minnesota
Anyone know more?
Bob Haan
bobh(at)cdac.com
Portland, OR
503-636-3550
RV6A 24461 Fuse out of jig, working on seats
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bobh(at)cdac.com> |
| Subject: | Accident in Minnesota |
The following was printed this week in AVweb's news letter.
Kosta Assalanis died last week while landing his RV4 in Minnesota
Anyone know more?
Bob Haan
bobh(at)cdac.com
Portland, OR
503-636-3550
RV6A 24461 Fuse out of jig, working on seats
________________________________________________________________________________
<< the Air Beetle is a modified RV6a that was built for the
Nigerian Air Force as a trainer. Several were built (20 I think) and
they had taller canopies, belly speed brakes, and a stronger landing
gear. >>
belly speed brakes. Now that sounds like an interesting subject. Why and
how? What is the experience with speed brakes on an RV6? Don't the flaps
slow one down enough?
Gene Francis, cafgef @aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Bolting on the wings... |
Help!
Any suggestions for bolting the wings to the fuselage on a -6. I have
just tried a few bolts, and what a royal pain. Any suggestions for
lubricants, tools, techniques, etc would be appreciated. I looked in the
archives, but couldn't find anything.
Thanks,
grant in New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
Hi,
I don't have much time in RV's, so I was hoping someone who does could
answer this question.
I am just starting to lay out the instrument panel. Should I leave room
for a flap position indicator? It wouldn't be too tricky to hook upto
the electric flap mechanism, but I was wondering how useful it would be.
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
Stephen Paul Johnson wrote:
> A very interesting topic for me, as I was planning on installing an
> oxygen system in my RV-8. With the rate of climb I will be getting on
> 200 hp, I doubt I will have to be too concerned about density altitude,
> but I was under the impression that high altitude capability would be
> useful for getting above the weather. Is this a misconception?
I flew B-727/707 aircraft for 25 years and never got above it all. :-)
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: MAC SERVO(Elevator Trim) |
John,
I've got one of the Drawings "EET-1" it came with the servo
installation kit. Did you get this kit? I think it was around $12
without the servo. This drawings leave a lot of room for guesswork. If
you need the drawing only I would let you use mine if you give me an
address were to send it.
If your going to Osh kosh I could give it to you there.
Chris Brooks
BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
t I was under the impression that high altitude capability would be
>useful for getting above the weather. Is this a misconception?
Steve, It didn't help in the jets, I seen wx at FL390 that looked like it
could be up another 20,000 ft at least.
Actually when I was flying turboprops we were banging around in the
wx all the time. We always said "the next airplanes we get we will be above
the wx." I guess I retired to soon cause I never was wx free at altitude
for very long.
I do intend to get an Oxygen set up for my -6, it could help in a
lot of ways on x-countries....better winds sometimes, smoother air sometimes
and even above the wx sometimes.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>60 were built.
>
>Ken RV6A flying
>
I had heard sometime ago that there was some being built in other countries
for training purposes....did that ever happen?
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
>
> A very interesting topic for me, as I was planning on installing an
> oxygen system in my RV-8. With the rate of climb I will be getting on
> 200 hp, I doubt I will have to be too concerned about density altitude,
> but I was under the impression that high altitude capability would be
> useful for getting above the weather. Is this a misconception?
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 #80121
> Left wing about to go into the jig
>
That would depend on the WX you intend to outclimb, If you want to top the
clouds and get out of the ice then you are on the right track. The best
icing protection you can have is climb performance.
If it was your intention to miss the thunder bumpers, Guess again. Go to
the NTSB site and look at malibu and P&T-210 accidents and you will see
that joe private pilot with an intrument rating does not fair well in the
high teens and twenties with the T-storms. When the bumpers are booming,
unless you have radar, and know how to use it, ( I have not seen a radar
pod on an RV, yet....) stay VFR down low and dash through the thin spots.
( besure to leave a back door to get out if you poke your nose in a hole
and find that it leads to a wall of water)
IMHO
Tailwinds, RV-4 N240 and a retired freight dog
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J & D Mahler <jax(at)brett.reno.nv.us> |
| Subject: | Re: MAC SERVO(Elevator Trim) |
JOHN CRATE wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I need the drawings showing how to install the Mac Servo in a RV-6. If
> anyone could help, could you please respond off list?
>
> Thanks!
>
> John Crate
> RV-6
> (Empennage nearing completion)
> I have a copy if you want. I have a fax available if you send me your
fax number. Otherwise, I will send them to you. Jax. RV-6A working
on the electric trim for Aileron's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Free Fuselage Jig |
Anybody want a free fuselage jig? Wood, only uesed twice. I'm located in
Northern California. E-mail me at d.leihy(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
>Does anyone know of a quick and dirty way remove the gell coating from
>Van's fiberglass parts? My fingers are about to go on strick!! (and I'm
>almost out of sand paper.)
>
>
I used a sanding disk in an air drill. It was quite effective in removing
the gel coat.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV (final assembly)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
Just returned from an 11 day vacation (commercial flying only
unfortunately) and 434 messages were downloaded from the RV list
operation. I'm still working through them. At least Juno does not
reject messages (at least up to 434). Ran across one RV6 during the
trip at the Lake Placid, New York airport. No one was around and from
about 50 feet away (looking into a hanger thru a fence) it looked to be
complete except for painting. J. E. Rehler RV6A flying Corpus Christi,
Texas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J & D Mahler <jax(at)brett.reno.nv.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Free Fuselage Jig |
aol.com!DLeihy(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Anybody want a free fuselage jig? Wood, only uesed twice. I'm located in
> Northern California. E-mail me at d.leihy(at)aol.com
>
> You didn't say if the jig is for a 4 or 6, I am nearing the construction
of the fuselage of my 6-a and live in Reno. Let me know if yours is for
a 6 thanks jax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Heat shielding fuel lines. |
chester razer asked:
>Hey Dave, could you elaborate on "highly fine-tuned hot-starting"
Within about 15 minutes after shutting down, the fuel in the lines between
the flow divider and the injectors has turned into vapor. In other words,
a normal 'top-the-tanks' stop is OK, but anything longer and the fuel will
be vapor.
A 'hot start' is when you must start the engine while it is in this
condition. Experience has shown that the procedure for doing so actually
varies from airplane to airplane, even when the two airplanes are the same
model. Two IO-520 equipped Bonanzas might require slightly different
hot-starting techniques, for example. Don't ask me why, but it's true.
I owned an IO520-equipped V35 Bonanza for a couple of years and so I had to
deal with this problem. I also have a good friend with an IO360-equipped
Mooney 201, and have flown with him many times in the summer. In addition,
I have an IO320 that I'm putting in my RV-6, so I'll be dealing with it
again soon.
Generally the procedure goes something like this:
1. Mixture rich, throttle closed
2. Turn on the boost pump. Leave it on for a period of time that you have
determined by trial and error, then turn it off. My firnd in his Mooney
counts to five. In the Bonanza I waited until the fuel flow needle was
'just so'. (The engine is now flooded).
3. Mixture to Lean cutoff, throttle wide open.
4. Start cranking
5. When the engine fires, move the throttle to idle and the mixture to full
rich. In some airplanes an additional couple of blips of the boost pump
are also required at this point. (it was in the Bonanza, and if you left
the Boost pump on too long you would flood the engine and have to start all
over)
You can imagine how fast your hands are moving during step 5. If you are a
little late getting the mixture in, the engine dies and you have to start
over. If you didn't leave the boost pump on long enough in step two, the
engine never fires, or doesn't fire enough.
And you've only got enough juice in the battery to do this about three or
four times.
I can still recall some of my early $100-hamburger flights in the Bonanza:
Sitting there during the whole meal wondering if I was gonna be able to get
the engine started when the meal was over. :-)
After flying the same airplane for a summer or three, you get really good
at hot starts. You figure out through trial and error what works best for
you and your airplane.
In the Bonanza, by the way, the Boost pump was only used prior to engine
start. It was never left on during takeoff or for landing. (I just got out
my V35 POH to double check). I never had any problems with surging or
rough-running or anything like that. Once the engine had started, it
always ran smoothly, no matter what the outside temps were or how long the
airplane was sitting. (Of course, your mileage may vary).
It looks like I'm going to get lucky and my initial flight and all my test
flying will be done in the dead of winter (That means it might be a
bone-chilling 50 degrees some mornings). By this time next year, though, I
should have some stories to tell about hot starts in my RV-6.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Avionics & electrical installed
Engine assembly in progress
The new Slick mags arrived today. They are the wrong ones. sigh.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV building and marital harmony |
>Now, on to the vert.
>stabilizer...PLEASE tell me it isn't as bad!
Of course it sn't as bad-- it's only half the size of the horizontal :-)
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
avionics & electrical installed
engine assembly in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Heat shielding fuel lines. |
I joked about Arizona, saying:
>>1. we ALWAYS have enough cabin heat
>>2. Our oil temps are NEVER too low.
>>3. Vinyl seats are a no-no
>>4. highly fine-tuned hot-starting techniques
>
And Ken Hitchmough replied:
>Yup, also
>
>No heat muffs required
>No engine heaters
>Your Temperfoam seats are never rock hard
>No heated socks
>No snow clearing just to get to the airplane
>No fuel line icing
>No having to remove wheel pants to get out the sludge
>
>
>I'll trade you!!
Don't forget the downside, though: The annual Oatman Sidewalk Egg-Fry
Contest didn't go so well this year: it was only 116 degrees that day.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
Rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Building in an air-conditioned garage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Denny:
> I have an airspeed indicator made by Edo-Aire, which I understand is
>owned now by Sigma-Tek, that was part of a experimental I parted out. My
>problem is that the speed limit markings located under the glass are not
>RV-6 speeds. I'm guessing that it would have to be sent back to change the
>markings or the face. Or ?
Any instrument-overhaul shop can re-mark the face for you.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
aol.com!Cafgef(at)matronics.com wrote:
> -belly speed brakes. Now that sounds like an interesting subject.
> Why and
> how? What is the experience with speed brakes on an RV6? Don't the
> flaps
> slow one down enough?
I think the problem is that in aerobatics the RV accelerates quickly --
too quickly in the hands of an inexperienced Air Force pilot trainee.
Given that flaps change the aerodynamics of the wing (more lift, etc)
and have a maximum extension speed, I don't think they're terribly
suitable for slowing down the aircraft in this situation.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Accident in Minnesota |
Bob Haan wrote:
>
> The following was printed this week in AVweb's news letter.
>
> Kosta Assalanis died last week while landing his RV4 in Minnesota
>
> Anyone know more?
>
> Bob Haan
>
The accident was reported locally, but not details. He was an
experienced pilot for Northwest.
Rick Osgood
RV6A wings
Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)highfiber.com> |
Previously asked:
Does anyone know of a quick and dirty way remove the gell coating from
Van's fiberglass parts?
--------------------------------------------
I used a combination of hand sanding with 60 grit sandpaper, some work
with a round and semi-circular bastard file, and the majority with a
electric disc sander with coarse grit paper - you must be careful not to
sand too much with the power sander - also generates a bunch of fine dust
and flying particles - wear a dust mask/respirator and safety glasses.
Incidently, I've discovered a great new tool for smoothing out some of
the rough edges on new fiberglass layups. I don't know the name, as I
found it in my tool drawer as a remnant of my wife's furniture
refinishing projects. It is an abrasive wheel manufactured by 3M; 3
inches in diameter, 1/2 inch wide, 1/4 inch shank, for chucking in a
drill/grinder. It looks like very coarse Scotchbrite (about 1/8 inch
diameter open cells) but is very stiff - much harder material than
Scotchbrite that doesn't wear down as fast. I just recently tried it on
some fiberglass layups on my cowl and it was great for rapidly cutting
down and feathering in the high spots, yet was very easy to control and
to avoid excessive material removal. I haven't looked for one in the
store yet, but I bet you could find it in your local hardware stores in
the paint section, or in dedicated home paint supply shops. Probably
advertised for removing old finishes or rust.
Still finish sanding the cowl and fairings.
Mike Kukulski
RV-4 N96MK
kukulski(at)highfiber.com
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Minnesota RV accident |
I thought I would follow up with the clip of the local newspapers report
on the recent RV accident
here in Minnesota. Here is the clip:
Authorities on Thursday identified the pilot who
died when his
single-engine plane crashed in a Rosemount
cornfield and burned
shortly after takeoff.
Kosta Asselanis, 43, of Inver Grove Heights, was
the only person on
board when the small plane crashed at about 4 p.m.
Wednesday,
police said.
A witness said the plane apparently had engine
trouble just before it
went down shortly after takeoff from a grass
airstrip near Dakota
County Technical Institute in Rosemount.
Police said the plane's nose section was broken off
and the cockpit and
midsection of the fuselage burned. About a dozen
firefighters
extinguished the blaze in about 15 minutes.
The Federal Aviation Administration was
investigating.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "garrett v. smith" <blueskyman(at)msn.com> |
Hi Everyone:
I read some comments in a recent thread that concerned me with respect to
flying in the vicinity of thunderstorms and icing...
stay VFR down low and dash through the thin spots.
( besure to leave a back door to get out if you poke your nose in a hole
and find that it leads to a wall of water)
If you want to top the
clouds and get out of the ice then you are on the right track. The best
icing protection you can have is climb performance.
I certainly don't want to belittle the individual who posted the above
comments,
I too have had to stay VFR down low in very poor weather, but it certainly was
a long, long way from recreational flying and anything but fun. It became a
very tense and dangerous situation and could have been avoided by simply
staying on the ground and waiting it out. I also have been up high in twin
turboprops trying to outclimb ice and couldn't do it, the best weather
protection
you have in your airplane is mounted on your shoulders.
Flying low around t-storms is DANGEROUS. Hail, lightning and microbursts
HAVE caused accidents in large, high powered jet aircraft, turn around and
go back to where you came from and wait it out. Here are some comments from
the Feb/97 RVator, these observations are from Van himself.
" As long as there is a chance that I can help prevent just one of those
'phone calls' , I've got to continue preaching-- and I need your help--to
spread
knowledge and to practice it.
There were 5 RV accidents in 1996, which claimed 9 lives.
(only weather related accidents mentioned for the sake of this discussion.gs)
-RV-6, 2 on board crashed shortly after predawn departure. Suspected vertigo,
loss of attitude reference in the darkness.
-RV-6, 2 on board crashed on an IFR flight. Icing had been reported along
their flight route.
There are instances where the probable cause , and the only lesson we can
learn, is that some form blatantly foolish flying had been attempted. Things
like low level aerobatics, continuing VFR flight into IFR conditions, or
flying with a known engine problem. "
It's a good article, worthy of serious consideration. As I mentioned earlier,
no flame intended, hopefully the above comments will spark some discussion
and we can all be the wiser for it.
I'm off my soap box now, lurk mode re-engaged.
Regards,
Garrett Smith
Calgary, Canada
Still flying for a living and dreaming of my RV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Free Fuselage Jig |
| From: | "S. R. Hales" <hales(at)garlic.com> |
I'm in Morgan Hill. Where are you? If not too far, I'm interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Glenn,
I've found that the most reliable, cheapest, indicator is markings
on the inboard edge of the ailerons! And yes, you can see them in
the dark.......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I don't have much time in RV's, so I was hoping someone who does could
>answer this question.
>
>I am just starting to lay out the instrument panel. Should I leave
>room
>for a flap position indicator? It wouldn't be too tricky to hook upto
>the electric flap mechanism, but I was wondering how useful it would
>be.
>
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> | ---
> |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
> |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
I had heard sometime ago that there was some being built in other countries
for training purposes....did that ever happen?
There was a lot of talk about other African countries buying it as a trainer too.
Talking to Skip
Heard (who masterminded and ran the project) at Sun'n fun this year I recall him
mentioning that it
was still a possibility.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
> -belly speed brakes. Now that sounds like an interesting subject.
> Why and
> how? What is the experience with speed brakes on an RV6? Don't the
> flaps
> slow one down enough?
I think the problem is that in aerobatics the RV accelerates quickly --
too quickly in the hands of an inexperienced Air Force pilot trainee.
Given that flaps change the aerodynamics of the wing (more lift, etc)
and have a maximum extension speed, I don't think they're terribly
suitable for slowing down the aircraft in this situation.
Actually, the aibrakes were there for a completely different reason.
For at leat 1/2 of the year, there's Sahara dust from ground to 4 or 5 thousand
feet. its called
Hamatan (or sumfink). The brakes were to let the 'plane get down through this crud
as fast as
possible with power on and avoid shock cooling.
They are not retro fittable to a standard RV. The fron section of the fuselage
floor was a couple
of inches lower than normal. The brake was like a big flap aft of this on the belly.
Ken
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert.R.F.Ziegler(at)scbvpno.simis.com |
Ken,
just out of interest (there is a lot of oil in Nigeria, and most of us end up
there eventually at least once):
What is the situation of private/general aviation there? Are they RV friendly?
Where are the planes based?
Thanks Robert
Dipl.Ing. Robert Ziegler, ODE
Sac Postal Shell Congo B.V. Pointe-Noire
c/o UNIVERSAL EXPRESS
B.P. 10387 Aeroport Charles de Gaule
F-95706 Roissy CDG, FRANCE
Ph: +242 42 8356
Fax: +242 94 3447
Satphone: +871 382 040 322 ex221
SatFax: +871 682 040 490
Internet: Robert.R.F.Ziegler(at)scbvpno.simis.com
Internet alternate (private): Robert.Ziegler(at)usa.net
X.400: /I=RF/G=Robert/S=Ziegler/O=SCBV POINTE
NOIRE/PRMD=SHELL/ADMD=400NET/C=NL/
----------
From: c=gb;a=cwmail;p=net;dda:RFC-822=owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com;
Sent: Monday, July 28, 1997 11:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AirBeetle
Someone wrote:
1. It was a somewhat modified RV6A and was built in Nigeria by
Nigerians with supervision by people that worked by contract to Vans.
Someone else wrote:
<2. some US citizens wenrt out to supervise>
Just to clear up a couple of points.
1. No one was contracted to Van's. Everyone worked for a company called AIEP
in Kaduna that was a
joint venture between Dornier and a Nigerian company.
2. There were also Canadians, (two of us were in the first "batch" of 5 ex
pats to go out). There
were already two Brits and an Indian working on the prototypes and the first
production version.
60 were built.
Ken RV6A flying
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolting on the wings... |
>Help!
>
>Any suggestions for bolting the wings to the fuselage on a -6. I have
>just tried a few bolts, and what a royal pain. Any suggestions for
>lubricants, tools, techniques, etc would be appreciated. I looked in the
>archives, but couldn't find anything.
>
I was just about to post a general FYI on this. Last Sunday I mated my
wings to fuse for the final time :)) I had heard that the close tolerance
bolts are a pain in the &##. The following procedure worked VERY well for me:
1) Install the wings and temporarily pin the center splice plate with
hardware store 3/8 bolts, a bolt in every other hole. Grind one bolt to a
point and use it as a drift pin. The hardware store 3/8 bolts are a little
smaller than the close tolerance bolts Van's supplies. Make sure you don't
have any paint in the holes in the splice plate.
2) Leave the temp splice plate bolts in for now and install the AN3 & AN4
bolts throughout the rest of the center section. I started at the top, next
to a splice plate and worked outboard, then down at the fuse side, then
inboard. For this, drift pins (AN 3 & AN 4 bolts ground to a point) helps.
Some bolts just don't want to go in. Tap a drift pin in next to the
offending hole, the offending bolt should slide right in. On the bolts,
BoeLube was applied to the threads and a silicon spray lubricant applied to
the shank. Leave all nuts off for now. Some bolts will require a hammer to
tap them in. Just don't go crazy with it. The more bolts you install, the
easier it gets.
3) Now for those close tolerance bolts. Get yourself a small block of dry
ice and freeze those bolts prior to installing. One at a time, remove the
temporary hardware store bolts and spray a shot of silicon lubricant in each
hole. Install a frozen close tolerance bolt, work very fast as they warm up
quite rapidly. I did have to use a hammer to drive the bolts in, but they
did go in without much trouble. I installed the four outboard 1/4" close
bolts first. That set the alignment for the remaining 3/8 inboard bolts.
4) After all bolts are in, install the nuts, using proper torque. Before I
get flamed with dry torque vs. wet torque, if your concerned about it, clean
all exposed threads first. Remember the bolts were installed in lubricated
holes.
5) Van's shorts you on the quantity of 3/8" washers. I found that I
typically needed one washer under the head of the bolt and two under each
nut. I'm writing this as my washers are being sent second day from Wicks.
6) I envy those building a -6. The nuts are almost impossible to install
on a few of the bolts in the main gear mounts on a -6A. With serious
contortions and patience, all can be installed.
7) All my bolt heads face aft. The bolt heads in the main gear mounts must
face aft, so I carried this convention throughout.
8) The dry ice helped a lot. Just work fast to get the bolts driven prior
to them heating up. I didn't need to hold the heads of the close tolerance
bolts when torquing the nuts. The fit was that tight !!!!
9) Take your time. Start to finish, it took me about 8 hours to mount the
wings.
10) The RV looks real good sitting in the hanger, painted, with the wings
and tail on :))
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV (final painting, final assembly)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hint for connecting stereo to intercom |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>My Flightcom 403 intercom stereo music input consists of a left
>channel, a right channel, and a common ground. Every car stereo I
>looked at says explicitly in the install instructions NOT to use a
>common ground on the speakers.
>
>I puchased a stereo with auxiliary RCA style outputs meant to be
>used to feed a power amplifier. These are low power outputs (just
>the right level for intercom music input), and they already have a
>common ground. I hooked it all up today, works like a champ.
The other option is to use those tiny Radio Shack transformers on the
speaker outputs. The output of the transformers can utilize a common
ground, and that then goes into an audio taper potentiometer (which is
useful for adjusting the input/output level) then into the stereo.
This is the setup I used, and it works well. Part # for the transformer
is 273-1380 ($1.99). This is the setup recommended by Flitecom.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
My flap indicator is three lines drawn on the left aileron in board rib. You
glance left after counting one potato two potato.. It is marked for 10, 20
and 40. I copied mine from Mas Yoshido and don't know where he got the idea.
It really works great. Can't imagine any cockpit indicator being as
accurate, light or foolproof.
D Walsh RV-6A 40 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
The question about dive brakes in the "Airbeetle" post, there is a fellow
in Medford, OR that has a dive brake located between the flaps on the
underside of the fuselage. It goes completely across the fuselage from flap
to flap and as wide as the flaps. It has large holes in it, which look like
about 2" in size. He extends them in the same fashion as the manual flaps
with center mounted handle.
I ask him what airspeed was the maximum for the dive brake. He commented
that he didn't know for sure but it seemed to be all right after he extended
the dive flap at 260 mph. He said he didn't intend to do that but the
airspeed had gotten away from him in some manuver was doing so he popped the
dive brake out and was pleased with the resulting slow down.
Maybe someone out there has seen the aircraft or knows the fellow could give
you more information.
I talked to the people that manufacture the sissor type for Certified plane
and they expressed interest in putting them on a RV-6 to develope a kit for
RVs. That has been a couple of years now so I don't think anything has been
developed. But someone who is really interested might volunteer thier plane
and get a free set installed to test. It is a thought.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Hi Ross,
I sure would be interested meeting with your group. I tried to do
that same thing up here, but ended up with a breakfast group of mix pilots
each Saturday morning at the Albany Airport untill the resturant closed. We
did have a pretty steady group of 6 or 7 builders and a few fly in RV's. But
since our resturant went down it has almost dried up.
Let me know where you hold it and I will try to get down there and
attend.
Thanks for the answer, BTW.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Not a misconception, Steve. It is especially true for the WX we see here on the
left coast as it is usually stratiform and rarely above 12-15,000 MSL. I don't
imagine you will be topping everything with only 200 hp as that will only be 100
hp at what?, 15,000?
You can also glide further if need be when you are way up high. This might not
seem important if you are flying across western Kansas but it does when you are
over "Castle Craggs".
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
> A very interesting topic for me, as I was planning on installing an
> oxygen system in my RV-8. With the rate of climb I will be getting on
> 200 hp, I doubt I will have to be too concerned about density altitude,
> but I was under the impression that high altitude capability would be
> useful for getting above the weather. Is this a misconception?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
What is the situation of private/general aviation there? Are they RV friendly?
Where are the planes based?
Thanks Robert
Please don't take this personally if you're from Nigeria, but from what I saw in
6 months they are
friendly to anything that greases their palms. The people are fantastic, but extremely
poor and
aits usual to 'dash' someone if you want it done.
I think the private aviation scene would be similar.
The 'beetles are based at Kaduna (near Kano, about 1/2 way up.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I got some written information about speed brakes at Fulton, New York
two years ago. I spoke to the company representative last year. He was
very helpful, but indicated that they were concentrating on the
certified market for the time being. As I recall, the company had
installed a set of brakes to the wings of a RV-4 and was flying it. I
can get the name of the company and the phone number if anyone is
interested.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----I talked to the people that
manufacture the sissor type for Certified plane
and they expressed interest in putting them on a RV-6 to
develope a kit for
RVs. That has been a couple of years now so I don't think
anything has been
developed. But someone who is really interested might volunteer
thier plane
and get a free set installed to test. It is a thought.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolting on the wings... |
Grant, I found putting in all those bolts to be the most tedious and
frustrating job in the htree years I took to build.
My suggestions would be to have a set of hand reamers, to run a drill though
the really difficult ones, and the other thing which really helped a lot was
an air operated wrench (Sorry I can't think of the right name.)
When you can only move a wrech a few degrees, the air operated wriench would
fit on the nut and put it on in no time. Then when you found the bolt was
too lon, or too short, it would remove the nut equally fast.
I tried to measure for each bole using a small rod, but I still had problems.
Anyway now I am flying and it all seems worthwhile, so just keep going.
I will be at Oshkosh from Wednesday to Saturday, in with the other Rvs.
John Now up to 50 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sburch(at)norfolk.infi.net (stan burchett) |
| Subject: | Heat treating hardened rivets |
Does anyone know the optimum temperature/time for softening rivets before
quenching?
Stan..Yorktown,VA -6A fus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
Does it work in the dark?
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nuckolls Panel Dimmer help |
Listers,
I'm ready to cut holes in my sub-panel for switches and breakers, but
I forgot to order the panel dimmer from Bob Nuckolls, and I really
need to know how much panel space it takes up before I cut my other
holes.
Does anybody have the dimensions of the Nuckolls dimmer system? I
need to know size of rheostat behind the panel and the dimensions of
the rheostat knob in front of the panel. Also, does the "remote"
circuitry mount pretty much anywhere, or does it need to be on the
panel near the rheostat?
Bob is at Oshkosh until the 10th, so I can't get the info from him.
Thanks for your help,
Tim Lewis
Panel
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Mars Rover Update #10 |
edgoheen(at)jeffnet.org, leo(at)prius.jnj.com, mlane(at)randmcnally.com,
rageNpat(at)aol.com, pbatten(at)execpc.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
3rdplanet(at)townsqr.com
>To: lynne.p.cooper(at)jpl.nasa.gov, bkcooper(at)pacbell.net,
fccpendl(at)oregontrail.net,
> RosenAlex(at)aol.com, ptidball(at)macsource.com, francis.o'brien(at)ey.com,
> james.anderson09(at)ey.com, gamiller(at)prodigy.com,
Donald.T.Palac(at)lerc.nasa.gov,
> larry.edgett(at)specastro.com, weathers(at)mega.net, SYZYGY1982(at)aol.com,
> kapoor(at)scf-fs.usc.edu, JGrudzi928(at)aol.com, macmaven(at)pacbell.net,
> dcarp(at)MindSpring.com, dcarpent(at)cisco.com, earlbev(at)globalpac.com,
> nppamec(at)gwgate.bas.ncsu.edu, lcarp(at)globalpac.com, 99789978(at)msn.com,
> pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com, bcos(at)ix.netcom.com, dbailey(at)almaak.usc.edu,
> lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com, hill(at)isi.edu, CAllen1015(at)aol.com,
JTF(at)msk2.msk.com,
> furgie(at)earthlink.net, doug_smith(at)starbase1.caltech.edu,
> Fran_O'Rourke(at)everett.wednet.edu, gothold(at)mizar.usc.edu, santi(at)d2.com,
> kellyc(at)d2.com, lara(at)cco.caltech.edu, JPHITE(at)uci.edu,
> rjahja(at)mail.vividnet.com, sanrow(at)scf-fs.usc.edu, beenakh(at)aol.com,
> chairuna(at)almaak.usc.edu, ebiefeld(at)hsonline.net, anowrooz(at)scf-fs.usc.edu,
> parekh(at)scf-fs.usc.edu, 110036.24(at)compuserve.com, ibess(at)bus.usc.edu,
> ddeangel(at)bus.usc.edu, CANALESM(at)Mattel.com, cblair(at)com1.med.usf.edu,
> BikrDick(at)aol.com, laux(at)earthlink.net, R.A.T.T.(at)worldnet.att.net,
> gasobek(at)ccgate.HAC.COM, cecilth(at)juno.com, biefeld+(at)isl1.ri.cmu.edu,
> jsaenz(at)mpfcmd1.jpl.nasa.gov, gchung(at)usc.edu, Carolyn(at)TheDohertys.com,
> Richard(at)TheDohertys.com, svhwan(at)alumni.caltech.edu, maged(at)almaak.usc.edu,
> jonathan.ungerleider(at)ey.com, matt.thornton(at)ey.com,
> dorothy.j.crawford(at)jpl.nasa.gov, Kathryn.a.harris(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> Rebecca.l.wheeler(at)jpl.nasa.gov, jennifer.foust(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> michael.m.ebersole(at)jpl.nasa.gov, Eric.e.suggs(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> Annette.l.ling(at)jpl.nasa.gov, Julie.m.reiz(at)jpl.nasa.gov, jmreiz(at)aol.com,
> Tu-anh.t.phan(at)jpl.nasa.gov, Thu-ha.n.truong(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> susan.m.roberts(at)jpl.nasa.gov, laurie.j.lincoln(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> Richard.l.chen(at)jpl.nasa.gov, Patricia.f.santos(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> coombs(at)earthlink.net, adessa(at)gti.net, wmills(at)southwind.net,
> rsalo(at)san.rr.com, rsalo(at)qualcomm.com, jward04(at)sprynet.com,
HYDRA4ME(at)aol.com,
> pcryan(at)nwlink.com, dennisw(at)roadrunner.com, CASA212FO(at)aol.com,
> grottifm(at)rapidnet.com, cat(at)hardy.math.okstate.edu, pporter(at)tenet.edu,
> pporter(at)camalott.com, rbaron(at)earthlink.net,
> Cindy_McCall(at)ccmail.northgrum.com, karin_grant(at)peoplemag.com,
> n3773(at)worldnet.att.net, Margaret.a.simpson(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> cindy.oda(at)jpl.nasa.gov, kathleen.spellman(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> gabi(at)astro.ocis.temple.edu, sheri.t.petzel(at)jpl.nasa.gov,
> susan_lee(at)starbase1.caltech.edu, SAILGENE(at)aol.com, ILSTR8oR(at)aol.com,
> skatzmann(at)juno.com, brun(at)itp.ucsb.edu, 5244.1414(at)compuserve.com,
> stephanie.chin(at)jpl.nasa.gov, julie.hakewill(at)starbase1.caltech.edu,
> dmac41(at)aol.com
>From: Brian Cooper <bkcooper(at)pacbell.net>
>Subject: Mars Rover Update #10
>X-Sender: bkcooper(at)pacbell.net
>Date: Mon, 28 Jul 97 05:08:57 +0000
>
>Mars Rover Update #10
>Sunday, July 27th, 1997 8:50PM
>
>Dear Family & Friends,
>
>We're into our fourth week of Mars Pathfinder, and still, the excitement
>continues. I just finished my Mars Pathfinder tour of duty (which
>consisted of 120 scheduled hours over a 12 day period - most of them late
>night & early morning). I really loved it. There's something incredibly
>exciting about working an actual flight mission. Tomorrow I return to the
>"real world" and pick up all the things I dropped so I could do this
>special assignment. Lucky for me, my partner in the reengineering work did
>a great job of keeping things going -- but all the things that were
>assigned specifically to me are now 2 weeks behind schedule. Oh well...I
>never did like Mondays. I will continue to be on-call for however long
>they'd like me, though, so my Pathfinder adventure will continue.
>
>The neatest part about my assignment was gaining a better understanding of
>the science experiments that are being conducted. I never really realized
>how much information we can get from pictures. In addition to studying
>rocks, soil, and weather, some of the experiments are investigating the
>atmosphere on Mars. There are experiments to characterize the Water Vapor,
>as well as observations of Phobos & Deimos. While the names of the rocks
>have tended toward cartoon characters, the science sequences have more
>romantic names..."cloud search", "stars", "Misty Mountain" observation,
>"radiometric calibration" (...only kidding on the last one!). I understand
>that Roger Ebert (of Siskel & Ebert) has been ranting about the knicknames
>of the rocks and that it's a ploy by NASA to trick the public. I can whole
>heartedly state that it's not. Maybe the Hollywood types are that cynical
>and Machiavellian - but the folks at JPL are just having some fun & picking
>names that are easy for them to use! Maybe if we named a rock "Fargo"
>after his favorite movie he'd lighten up!
>
>Brian had quite an exciting week. On Monday he and several other Martians
>got to visit the Star Trek Voyager set. (This was the first time I was
>flat out jealous!) Since so many of the people on Pathfinder (and at JPL,
>in general) are Trek fans, the project had a lottery to see who got to go
>and Brian was one of the lucky ones. They actually got to stand on the
>bridge of Voyager, tour the Promenade of DS-9, talk with the Producer Rick
>Berman and LeVar Burton who was directing, and meet the cast of Voyager.
>The show is in production, so the JPLers got to see scenes being filmed
>(new recurring cast member this fall on Voyager!). Apparently it's highly
>unusual to allow visitors to the set when they're filming - so the Voyager
>cast & crew were very curious about who these visitors were. Brian said it
>was an incredible moment when the producer took a break in production and
>said..."Crew of the Starship Voyager, meet the crew of the Mars Pathfinder"
>-- and the cast & crew gave them a standing ovation! Brian said the sets
>were really detailed. They got to see a lot of things up close. For
>example, on the DS-9 restaurant areas there are picture menus with really
>gross Klingon "food" on them; there's a Ferengi ATM machine outside of
>Quark's place; the text on some of the medical displays (impossible to see
>on camera) was the theme song from Gilligan's Island; there are no actual
>windows on DS-9 - just starfield backdrops; and, there's a morgue in
>Voyager's medical facility. Brian took 2 rolls of pictures and his first
>specific comment to me when he got back was.."Captain Janeway's a babe!"
>
>The other exciting event was on his day off, when he and two other members
>of Pathfinder were flown up to San Jose to attend the Silicon Graphics
>(SGI) annual sales conference. SGI makes the computers that Brian and the
>scientists are using on Pathfinder to visualize the Martian terrain.
>(These are the same types of computers that are used in computer animation
>such as for the movie "Toy Story.") They are very powerful computers and
>without them, there's no way we'd be getting the real-time images & 3-D
>processing that we've got on the project. The SGI folks were great
>partners leading up to and during the landing and operations - so this was
>a chance for the JPL folks to say "thank-you for your support & for making
>great equipment." [Editorial note here...many times people think that
>because we're a government funded operation, that we shouldn't be
>highlighting the tools & products that were used. I think it's great that
>NASA is finally acknowledging the work done by industry to support our
>missions.] Anyway, to continue, Brian said that they were treated like
>rock stars. A limo met them at the airport & took them to the convention
>center. No one in the audience knew that they were coming, and after they
>played a segment about Pathfinder (featuring Brian, narrated by Walter
>Cronkite), they had lights and fog and introduced the Pathfinder
>representatives...to thunderous applause, a standing ovation, and people
>asking for autographs afterwards. Very bizarre - Bri said that it was
>unnerving to see a 40ft. version of his face on the wall of tv screens
>behind the podium!
>
>Operations are continuing successfully on the project. The new software
>has been uploaded, so that should take care of the resets that were causing
>so many problems. The modems have been working great (knock on wood!) and
>people think that earlier problems may have been temperature related.
>There's lots of data coming back every day and the scientists are keeping
>busy. Last night, Brian "drove" the rover to "Souffle" to take an APXS
>reading. It was a really hazardous area because of all the smaller rocks
>close to Souffle that could scrape the APXS or hangup the undercarriage of
>the rover. They decided to err on the side of caution and ended up not
>getting to that rock (44 cm away) - which was as Brian expected. The
>second part of his drive was to send Sojourner on a 7 meter traversal (3
>times longer than anything they'd tried before) using a series of
>way-points. The rover did this flawlessly! So they played it safe on
>Souffle and succeeded marvelously on the traversal.
>
>Things are starting to settle into a routine on the mission. The Mission
>Director (Richard Cook) is looking for ways to streamline operations and
>make it possible to do more things during the day shift instead of
>operating around the clock. As we're learning more about Mars and about
>how the lander and rover are behaving, it's possible to plan further ahead.
> It's pretty straight forward to do that for the science experiments, but a
>bit tougher for the rover experiments since there's always an element of
>the unknown in terms of where it is and if it got to the target
>successfully. People on the project really need a break. One of the
>engineers told me that in one week she put in over 60 hours of [unpaid]
>overtime. The combination of being able to plan several days ahead coupled
>with bringing in fresh reinforcements (...like me!) should help out.
>
>Hope these are still of interest!
>
>--Lynne Cooper
> lynne.p.cooper(at)jpl.nasa.gov
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------
>Copyright 1997 Lynne P. Cooper. All Rights Reserved. The views expressed
>within are the personal views of the author and do not reflect the views of
>NASA, JPL, or Caltech. It is ok to forward this message as long as this
>disclaimer is included.
>
>
>Brian K. Cooper
>bkcooper(at)pacbell.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Nuckolls Panel Dimmer help |
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
>
> Does anybody have the dimensions of the Nuckolls dimmer system?
The reostat takes a 1/4" hole and the knob is about 3/4" high by
1/2" in diameter. The leads on my reostat are about 3' long so I suppose
you could mount the dimmer any where within that radius.
The dimmer circuit itself is mounted on a heatsink that measures
4.8" X 1.5" X 1.2" high. There is a subminiture plug for the
connections. If you need any more info contact me at
.
Have a nice day. Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
writes:
>Hi Fred. I saw your tag at the end of your e-mail post that says you are
>working on your2nd Chevy powered engine. I am thinking along the same
lines and would
>appreciate your comments on the likes/disklikes of the Chevy vs.
theLycoming.
Not the second Chevy powered engine, but the second RV that I plan on
powering
with a Chevy engine. i have the tail group done and am working on the
wings. I
figure that it will take at least a couple of years to complete as, with
kids
in college, I don't have the necessary cash flow to buy everything at
once.
I have started the engine rebuild. I've starte with a block that was
running
good with 100,000 miles on it. Figure that it's well seasoned that way.
Plan
on getting it tanked and magnifluxed next month.
>Did you see the latest RV newsletter from Van's?? He again is not to
>excited abouted anything other than a Lycoming. Is this bias reasonable
>or is it based more on his relationship with Lycoming??
If I were he, as the designer of probably the most popular 200 MPH
airframe
kit in the market, I too would be very conservative. New approaches to
powerplants or airframes need to experience the test of time before they
will be overwhelmingly accepted by the industry. We, as flyers of
experimental
aircraft, are in the unique position to be able to explore the realm of
reliability
of automotive technologies when used in aircraft. This has its risks, but
without
them, there are no rewards..........
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Rob,
If you can't see your inboard edge of your ailerons after dark, you
probably should have filed IFR! But even if you can't, you'll know
from experience just how long to hold the switch down for a
particular flap setting......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Does it work in the dark?
>
>Rob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Beaton <beatonk(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Installing RV6a main gear |
Got a question about installing the main landing gear of th RV-6A. =20
The gear legs have been already pre-drilled by Van, however the =
installation plans were written when the gear legs were not pre-drilled. =
Are the installation instructions still applicable for both situations, =
or does having pre-drilled gear legs elimanate any of the installation =
steps or alignment procedures? Of course the steps detailing the =
drilling of the gear legs can be ignored.
Thanks
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat treating hardened rivets |
)
>
>Does anyone know the optimum temperature/time for softening rivets before
>quenching?
> Stan..Yorktown,VA -6A fus
>
>
Stan, according to the article about the RV-4 I told you about before it is
850 degrees for 15 minutes then quickly dump then in a cold bucket of water.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
Micheal,
Stress releif can also be acomplished by using your deburing tool and
removing the hardened material around the holes. Once into the soft material
you have to make sure you have no gouges or rough edges. I would be sceptical
about using a tourch anywhere near my canopy.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Tennison" <jtennison.cmrl(at)veda.com> |
| Subject: | ...no subject... |
I'll be at Oshkosh
unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
Glen,
I went to the trouble of installing a flap position indicator on my 4. It is
a string of L.E.D. lights set up at 10-20-30-40 deg settings. It works
perfectly, the only trouble is its hard to see in the daylight. I usually
just look over my shoulder and feed in flaps as I need them. Would I do it
again? Probably not. The only time it is really usefull is at night and I
still find myself looking over my shoulder.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
The most simple dive brake would be those similar to what the Blanik and
Schweizer gliders have. It is well suited to the RV wing and would
require minimal 'beefing-up'. It is simply a hinged slat that is
controlled by a torque tube. Top surface only would work fine.
Find your nearest glider site and check out the different types of
spoilers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
I went up and tried last night and sure enough I could not see my beloved
flap indicator markings at all. They are marked in the recessed rib of the
aileron and were shadowed by the small amount of ambient light. I could
easily see the flaps however, and could estimate with no problem. My Duck
works light worked marvelous.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mars Rover Update #10 |
> >
> >Hope these are still of interest!
These posts are ABSOLUTELY of interest. Keep them coming. I only wish I could think
of a way to
become more involved myself. But at least for the time being, your updates will
have to suffice.
Andy Gold
RV-6A N-5060 (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | QuietFlite Intercom? |
charset="iso-8859-1"
I'm looking to the QuiteFlite Odyssey intercom after my tech counselor
recommended looking into one for great stereo intercom system.
Has anyone used one of these? At $379 it's pretty steep, but after
renting
many planes with crappy intercoms I'm willing to pay more if it's top of
the line.
I haven't found out if it has the "soft mute" where it cuts out the
audio input
and then slowly ramps it back up, but I'll try to find out. I'm mostly
interested in
the best VOX circuitry.
Any input? (thanks)
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA RV-6AQME N727MF reserved
Installing instrument panel, thinking about canopy...
Here are the points I pulled off of the avionix website:
* HI-power, HI-FI internal amplifiers that can drive over 20 headsets
of almost
any type, even military ones, at full power and with perfect clarity.
* Multiple "fully automatic" Digitrac squelch circuits that only
activate the
microphone of the person speaking, eliminating the rushing wind noise
heard with other intercoms.
* "AVR" Priority with mini-muting lets you control whether audio volume
priority is given to the controller or pilots without shutting out
either.
* Super HI-FI Stereo/Mono music inputs let you connect any portable
or panel mounted FM stereo radio, CD, or tape player and enjoy a
concert in your plane, with no interference to ATC or cabin
communication. Camcorder output is included. <<<--------(nice)
* Fail safe circuits automatically switch everything directly to your
comms in the unlikely event of a failure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D Hiatt" <OttoPilot_MSN(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Looks Great! |
You know, there's something terrific about how everything seems so normal so
quickly at Oshkosh. I used to go to Macintosh conventions in Boston and
SanFrancisco, and think "This is how those left-handed convention folks must
feel" with all of the booths selling Lefty items and such. Row after row,
booth after booth of MacStuff, and it was easy to believe that everyone in the
world had a Macintosh.
Here, it's the same thing. You wake up in the morning and the folks in the
next tent are arguing about whether the C85 or C65 was the better Cub. You
have breakfast and look over the newspaper and see nothing about the middle
east or the price of some stock or mutual fund-all of the news is about
airplanes and airshows. You walk around the grounds and for miles in any
direction all you see are airplanes and pilots and stuff for both. Since the
only times I've ever been to Oshkosh have been convention times, it's easy to
believe that it's always like this here, too! Didn't you wake up with a
yodeller, and don't you have your conversations interrupted with P-51s flying
overhead?
But this year is even better... with row after row after row of RVs. Most, but
far from all, are parked together in the area immediately between the Theater
in the Woods and the military ramp. Dozens of RVs. -3s, from the 1970s, -4s
from the 1980s and -6s from the 1990s. And if you stand in the middle of them
and squint, it's easy to believe that *every*one flies an RV of some kind or
another. All kinds of paint schemes, all kinds of panels, all kinds of
airplanes!
If you're not here, you're missing something terrific. Oshkosh looks great!
Mark D Hiatt Visit us on MSN v2!
OttoPilot_MSN@msn.com http://Forums.msn.com/Aviation
Aviation Forum Manager, AvChat Mondays 10pm Eastern
The Microsoft Network mic://Chat.msn.com/AvChat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Gamble" <Micky_G(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Mars Rover Update #10 |
They sure are wanted by this science buff!!!!!
Mick
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of kevin lane
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 1997 11:34 PM
edgoheen(at)jeffnet.org; leo(at)prius.jnj.com; mlane(at)randmcnally.com;
rageNpat(at)aol.com; pbatten(at)execpc.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com;
3rdplanet(at)townsqr.com
Subject: RV-List: Mars Rover Update #10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Fred,
I am a year, maybe two from having to decide about an engine for my
RV-6A. There is much that I like about the auto engine approach. I
have spoken with the Belted Air people, who seemed to be on the level
about where they were at with their FWF package.
I am not an airframe or powerplant designer. If the details of this
installation call for each one of us to boldly go where no man has gone
before and do our own engineering, then the V-6 is not for me.
Therefore, I would like to hear from you on the list as you work your
way toward a flying machine. If it is working for you, maybe I'll go
the V-6 route too, when the time comes.
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
(closing up the second wing and thinking about how to build the fuselage
jig)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | MN RV-4 Accident |
Fellow Listers:
I'd like to provide some further insight involving the recent fatal and
tragic accident of an RV-4 in the Twin Cities area. I hesitate just a
little because obviously the final NTSB report has not been published and I
feel the RV List is not the proper forum to speculate on an accident until
the FAA, the NTSB, and Van's Aircraft have reached their conclusions.
However there are some facts that have come to light that I feel are
relevant now to RV builders and pilots. Here are the facts that I know as
of this time (after talks with the MN FAA FSDO, the Chicago office of the
NTSB, and several friends of the accident victim).
The accident involved a fellow NWA pilot and ALPA member Kosta Asselanis.
Kosta had purchased this aircraft outstate from a builder that I am not
aware of. He was taking off solo from Jensen Airport in Rosemount, MN
(about 15 miles SW of Minneapolis) on the evening of July 23rd. There was
one eye witness who stated that at immediately after takeoff the aircraft
went into a near vertical climb, a series of erratic dives and climbs, a
stall and an uncontrolled dive into the ground.
Both the FAA and NTSB investigators I spoke with confirmed that the F-440
elevator pushrod was broken in the area where it passes through the F-406B
bulkhead. They felt this may have occurred right at takeoff with
subsequent loss of elevator control. They said that the pilot may have
tried to control the aircraft with elevator trim but was not successful.
Several days prior to the accident, the pilot had told a friend that he had
fallen out of an aerobatic maneuver, exceeded Vne to approximately 250 mph
and experienced severe elevator flutter. He landed without incident and
apparently inspected the aircraft externally. The pushrod failed on the
next flight.
After this accident another local RV-4 pilot pulled his F-440 elevator
pushrod and had it magnafluxed at the NWA maintenance base. Several cracks
were found in the aluminum tube.
According to the NTSB investigator I spoke with, Van's is acutely aware of
this situation and likely will be examining the components from this
accident after Oshkosh.
If there are any further question, you may email me directly.
Thanks,
Doug Weiler, Pres, MN Wing, Van's AirForce
dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: QuietFlite Intercom? |
Hi Mitch & all,
This sounds like the perfect answer to the problem of providing Stereo Classical
music to a load of paratroopers who want to sing along.
Me, I just have four seats and like to hear the engine. I have a six year old
Flightcom $109 or so intercom. When the RV is done, I'll buy another.
hal
> I'm looking to the QuiteFlite Odyssey intercom after my tech counselor
> recommended looking into one for great stereo intercom system.
>
> Has anyone used one of these? At $379 it's pretty steep, but after
> renting
> many planes with crappy intercoms I'm willing to pay more if it's top of
> the line.
> I haven't found out if it has the "soft mute" where it cuts out the
> audio input
> and then slowly ramps it back up, but I'll try to find out. I'm mostly
> interested in
> the best VOX circuitry.
>
> Any input? (thanks)
>
> Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA RV-6AQME N727MF reserved
> Installing instrument panel, thinking about canopy...
>
>
> Here are the points I pulled off of the avionix website:
>
> * HI-power, HI-FI internal amplifiers that can drive over 20 headsets
> of almost
> any type, even military ones, at full power and with perfect clarity.
>
>
> * Multiple "fully automatic" Digitrac squelch circuits that only
> activate the
> microphone of the person speaking, eliminating the rushing wind noise
> heard with other intercoms.
>
> * "AVR" Priority with mini-muting lets you control whether audio volume
> priority is given to the controller or pilots without shutting out
> either.
>
> * Super HI-FI Stereo/Mono music inputs let you connect any portable
> or panel mounted FM stereo radio, CD, or tape player and enjoy a
> concert in your plane, with no interference to ATC or cabin
> communication. Camcorder output is included. <<<--------(nice)
>
> * Fail safe circuits automatically switch everything directly to your
> comms in the unlikely event of a failure.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Van Zant <rvanzant(at)van.inc.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 wing failures? |
I've come across several (completely unverified) references to RVs
losing wings, and was wondering if anyone could provide more information.
The -6 is of most interest to me, as that's what I'm considering.
thanks,
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Okay, here's a question for you rv-4 experts. How do you install the
pin in the upper cowling? From what direction do you begin feeding the
pin? Thanks for all help. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governors |
Hello listers,
How about comments on prop governors for the O-360A1A.....
In my research I have of course found my learning curve climbing
steeply skyward. For example;
Van's sells Woodward #210776. Other sources will sell #210681 0r
#210490 or #210105.....or Hartzell F4-4 for example. There are casting
variations, pilot valve variations, and flow capacity differences between
the Woodwards. A claim was made to me by an experienced engine shop that he
would prefer to have a Hartzell governor on a single engine aircraft
because of its greater flow capacity etc, although for the twins he finds
the speed control (engine synchronizing) better on the Woodward.
How does the Hartzell fit, compared to the Woodward, on the RV-6?
Is there a clearance problem with the Hartzell? Why haven't we heard more
discussion about use of Hartzell governors on the RV's?
Thank You,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q
rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)mailhost.avici.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governors |
b.wa.us>
>
>Hello listers,
> How about comments on prop governors for the O-360A1A.....
> How does the Hartzell fit, compared to the Woodward, on the RV-6?
>Is there a clearance problem with the Hartzell? Why haven't we heard more
>discussion about use of Hartzell governors on the RV's?
>
>Thank You,
>
>Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q
>rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
>Seattle area
>
Hello,
I recently put on my governor on my new O-360-A1A. It was
the woodward one that Van sells although I'm not sure what the
part number is. Fit is no problem as long as you have the cutout
in the firewall. I bought the control bracket from Van and had to
extend it with a piece of aluminum angle in order to secure the
cable I got from Aircraft Spruce. I haven't run the engine yet
but the installation was no problem. The hardest part was
modifying the control bracket.
Cheryl Sanchez
csanchez(at)world.std.com
RV-6A - engine hookups and fuel system
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
> --> How do you install the
> pin in the upper cowling? From what direction do you begin feeding the
> pin? The pin is insatlled by reaching through th oil filler hole and
feeding the pins from the center to the outside each way.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | REEVES322(at)aol.com |
The way mine is: small access cover held on with a screw in the top center
of the cowl, feed the pins in from there, top center going down toward either
side. Works real easy. Been flying mine for almost 8 years. Good luck.
Bob, N244RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
>
>Okay, here's a question for you rv-4 experts. How do you install the
>pin in the upper cowling? From what direction do you begin feeding the
>pin? Thanks for all help. Michael
>
>
Michael:
Most set it up so you can insert it from the front and they use various
methods to retain it in position. Some insert it from the back, but you have
to engineer a slot in the cowl cheek or some other method to get it in.
Mine go in from the front and are secured by hooking them over the front
lower lip of the cowl inlet. Hard to explain but easy to do. Whatever you
do, find a method to secure them.....a local 6 builder had one start to come
out in flight and it chewed his new prop.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying 3 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Steve,
Nor am I a designer, but I'm hoping to utilize the know results of
Belted Air Power and others, to get working, reliable powerplant. I'll
keep the RV list informed of my progress, which wil be slow.......
Where is Huntington Vt? I'm in N. Central Ct, so your not that
far away (by RV of course!)....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>Fred,
>
>I am a year, maybe two from having to decide about an engine for my
>RV-6A. There is much that I like about the auto engine approach. I
>have spoken with the Belted Air people, who seemed to be on the level
>about where they were at with their FWF package.
>
>I am not an airframe or powerplant designer. If the details of this
>installation call for each one of us to boldly go where no man has gone
>before and do our own engineering, then the V-6 is not for me.
>
>Therefore, I would like to hear from you on the list as you work your
>way toward a flying machine. If it is working for you, maybe I'll go
>the V-6 route too, when the time comes.
>
>Steve
>Huntington, Vermont
>(closing up the second wing and thinking about how to build the fuselage
jig)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heat treating hardened rivets |
<< Does anyone know the optimum temperature/time for softening rivets before
quenching?
Stan..
I'm assuming you want to soften up some old rivits that have been setting
around for a couple of years. I'll also assume that these are aluminum alloy
2017.
Normal proceedure as follows:
Heat rivits to 935 degrees F.,+/- 10 degrees F.( 500C+/-6C)
DO NOT OVERHEAT: causes problems such as lower corrosion resistance and lower
strength.
Hold at temperature for 30 to 45 minutes
Quench in room temperature water. Use enough water to keep the temperature
under 100F during quench.
Quench as fast as you can. If you can get the temperature down to room
temperature in under 1/2 second that would be good. Probably not possable but
move briskly anyway.
I hope this helps. Most people don't have a furnace that has good
temperature control, much less equipment for handleing 935 F aluminum.
Typical ceramic glazing ovens won't hold +/- 10F.
Good luck. If you would like to discuss this off-line, my E-mail is:
Gene Francis cafgef(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 wing failures? |
I've only heard of RV-3's loosing wings and Van's recently developed a
kit with a Change Notice to bring the RV-3 wing spars up to +6 -3 Gs
(and has static tested it).
The RVs are high performance airplanes, where the pilot can exceed the
structual limits of the airplanes by applying full control deflections
above Va (which I think is about 120 -130 mph).
Finn
Robert Van Zant wrote:
> I've come across several (completely unverified) references to RVs
> losing wings,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Fellow RVers,
It's vacation time again, and I'm planning on a trip out to Las vegas
and/or the West coast in N925RV. I plan on stopping in to see Jess
Meyers (and any others working on RV-6A Chevy installations) and to
travel around those big hills out that way. (Us East coast flat landers
are
intrigued by their grandeur!). Current planned stops are Omaha Ne,
Ft. Collins, and Las Vegas, and possibly Seattle. Anybody else out
there working on a Chevy installation, or looking for some stick time
in trade for a place to stay, let me know, and I'll plan accordingly.
I plan on leaving Aug 9th, and returning to Ct no later than Aug
17'th.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 wing failures? |
Bob, I have never heard of a RV-6 having a wing failure. The RV-3 that
was rumored to havebeen over stressed in a manuver lossed a wing here in
Oregon....
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
>
>Michael,
>
> For what its worth, we ended up building 3 canopys as the first 2 were
>drilled with a bit with the wrong angle on the end . Right size, wrong
>angle. Have some pretty nice snow sleds for the kids!
>
> Ps: I was planning all along to give a canopy building presentation at
>Oswego NY's, EAA chapter 486's 3rd annual RV forum this September... I
>sure have experienced it all now haven't I, (I hope).................
>
>
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> | --- |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting! |
> +-- --+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
So if I install an "ice light" I'll be able to see the flaps indicator?
Probably wouldn't add 5 or 6 oz.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QuietFlite Intercom? |
<< I'm looking to the QuiteFlite Odyssey intercom after my tech counselor
recommended looking into one for great stereo intercom system.
Has anyone used one of these? At $379 it's pretty steep, but after
renting
many planes with crappy intercoms I'm willing to pay more if it's top of
the line. >>
I have an older QuiteFlite intercom installed in a steen Skybolt. I bought
it for $300 during a show special and I had them do their High noise
modification to it and they modified my DC headsets to be stereo (no stereo
ones available in those days). Altogether it was about $500, and it was the
best $500 I spent on the plane.
It has a seperate voice circuit for each mic, so that when you talk, you only
turn on that mic, not all of them. This reduces the background noise and
allows for infinitely better voice activation. It has the soft muting which
reduces the music to part volume when either you or ATC are talking. I
believe on the newer ones this reduced volume level is adjustable although
the factory setting on mine is fine. This is much better than the ones that
simply shut the music off and then turn it back on, even if it is gradual.
There is also an amplifier in the unit, so that the sound quality of both
the music and ATC is excellent.
There are a host of other features also and there are some other intercom
manufacturers that have incorporated many of these features into there units,
so I don't want to say that Quiteflite is the only one with them. It may be
more intercom than you need, but if you buy it, you will never regret it, and
never sit there wishing you had bought the better one.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
Hi Fred,
I cant tempt you with any further Chevy engine info (unless you had any
interest in seeing that Velocity Ive told you about, although I wouldnt use
that installation as a how to guide). But if you decide to make it out as
far as San Diego, I can probably offer you a place to stay. Let me know if I
can help.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Fellow RVers,
>
> It's vacation time again, and I'm planning on a trip out to Las vegas
>and/or the West coast in N925RV. I plan on stopping in to see Jess
>Meyers (and any others working on RV-6A Chevy installations) and to
>travel around those big hills out that way. (Us East coast flat landers
>are
>intrigued by their grandeur!). Current planned stops are Omaha Ne,
>Ft. Collins, and Las Vegas, and possibly Seattle. Anybody else out
>there working on a Chevy installation, or looking for some stick time
>in trade for a place to stay, let me know, and I'll plan accordingly.
>
> I plan on leaving Aug 9th, and returning to Ct no later than Aug
>17'th.
>
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> (Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
>wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> | --- |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting! |
> +-- --+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alivic(at)wport.com |
Dear Fred,
If you were interested in coming to Seattle I could probably
arrange a visit to see Bob Spencer's RV-6A and also run down to Auburn,
WA and talk to Elwin Johnson. You're welcome to stay with us especially
if you were to fly into Apex airport in Silverdale, that's located only
about 20 miles from where I live and there are 5 RV's located on that
field. Apex is a private strip but I can arrange for landing and tie
down since I have quickly pushed myself upon all the RV folks there in
my quest for information. One of the guys there has a Subaru powered
RV-6A. It is the first NSI powered example flying. He has had numerous
problems and can only fly at about 150 m.p.h.
Bob Spencer's plane is located at Arlington less than 40 air
miles away, while Elwin is also about 40 miles but I'm not sure if he is
close to an airport. Bob has all the info on Elwin because he has been
working closely with him during his conversion project.
I'm driving down to Portland on August 11 and plan to return
late on the 12th. I'll be picking up my RV-8 empennage kit while taking
care of some other business.
Fred do you know how to unzip the rvlist archive files? I
down loaded the compressed file yesterday but don't know how to unzip
them - I still struggle with computer related activities.
Lastly, I spent a couple of years in your neck of the woods
at Westover AFB. I drove to Hartford numerous times to pick up visitors
at the Hartford airport. I flew B-52's in my youth and was actually
married just before I spereated from the Air Force and Westover back in
1971.
Look forward to hearing from you and should you decide to
visit the great Northwest you won't be disappointed since August and
September are the months that cause most people to want to live here.
Tony Livic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Stephen:
Stephen J. Soule writes:
--snip--
> There is much that I like about the auto engine approach. I
> have spoken with the Belted Air people, who seemed to be on the level
> about where they were at with their FWF package.
--snip--
You'll find a really good article on the state of aircraft
piston engines, which discusses auto conversions, at
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/article2.html
I'm interested in the Chevy V6, too. I found this article
gave me a lot to think about regarding the Lycoming/auto-conversion
question. Warning: it's theoretical, and doesn't really discuss
any of the practical aspects of either (for homebuilders).
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Fred:
I've never heard any discussion yet about using the aftermarket
aluminum block and heads on a Chevy V6 conversion for aircraft
use. My understanding, from my racing friends, is that you can
save a lot of weight--perhaps upwards of 100 lbs--with the
aluminum castings. These are more expensive than stock, of
course, but I also understand they're not too outrageously
expensive, because of the very large auto-racing market (many
thousands of units sold per year).
Have you considered this? I'd be interested to know what
you've found out.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Hi Chevy fans,
As I remember the aluminum blocks (there are several variants) are about 80 lbs
lighter than iron. The heads another 38. The OMABP RV6 with the V6 weighs 1156
so in aluminum it would be 1038. It will put out 210-220 hp it seems. The
block was quoted to me at $4000 and a pair of heads at about $3000. I haven't
gotten around to finding what is available in a steel crank but I'd prefer that.
Several cams are available. Rods pistons valves etc same as small block V8.
This engine is basically just a 350 inch small block of which Chevy has made
millions with two middle cylinders excised.
You should look at a book "Auto engine conversion" ?? by Richard Finch; he shows
a V6 Chevy that turned over 500 hp on the dyno. I believe that its life was
only about ten hours but it did hold together that long. Running flat out the
entire time, of course. I don't think my recently overhauled Continental could
run ten hours at full throttle without souping up.
There is quite a bit in the archives on alt engines.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
> I've never heard any discussion yet about using the aftermarket
> aluminum block and heads on a Chevy V6 conversion for aircraft
> use. My understanding, from my racing friends, is that you can
> save a lot of weight--perhaps upwards of 100 lbs--with the
> aluminum castings. These are more expensive than stock, of
> course, but I also understand they're not too outrageously
> expensive, because of the very large auto-racing market (many
> thousands of units sold per year).
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>I am a year, maybe two from having to decide about an engine for my
>RV-6A. There is much that I like about the auto engine approach. I
>have spoken with the Belted Air people, who seemed to be on the level
>about where they were at with their FWF package.
>
>I am not an airframe or powerplant designer. If the details of this
>installation call for each one of us to boldly go where no man has
>gone before and do our own engineering, then the V-6 is not for me.
I can't take credit for this quote, but I sure agree with it: "If you
want to FLY, use an aircraft engine. If you want to TINKER, install an
auto engine.
Virtually every article I've ever read on auto conversions has mentioned
that it took FAR longer, a very similar amount of money, and LOTS of
patience.
I applaud the folks that are paving the way for installing auto engines.
But until one exists that has more than a handful of operating hours in
more than a few airframes, and has quantifiable data, I'll let the
pioneers have at it.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
idacom.hp.com!tedd(at)matronics.com wrote:
> You'll find a really good article on the state of aircraft
> piston engines, which discusses auto conversions, at
>
> http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/article2.html
I had a look at this page. The article is written by Greg Travis, who
has long contributed to auto-conversion discussions and flamefests in
the rec.aviation.homebuilt newsgroup. He tends to be anti-auto-engine,
but he does know what he's talking about and backs up his position with
balanced, rational reasoning (unlike the infamous Lamar).
A couple of points that weren't covered in the article:
1. He compares Lyconts with *standard* car engines. No-one in his right
mind would use a standard car engine to power an aircraft. For example:
One of the reasons auto engines have poorer fuel economy is that they
are optimised to provide about 30% power instead of 75%. Altering the
cam profile will go some way toward remedying that.
2. He doesn't discuss cost. If a new Lycont costs $20K and a Chevy V6
conversion costs $6K, it would be economic to go with the Chevy even if
it burns 10% more fuel, weighs 50lb more, and has a 1000 hour TBO. Of
course, the extra fuel burn and weight will limit your range and may
make it impractical for some uses.
Frank.
[Vaguely considering Mazda rotary/Chevy V6/Rover V8 power for my RV-6
(this decision is still some years away) and following the pro/anti
auto-conversion arguments with interest].
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
I visited my engine at Lycon today and the overhaul is nearly complete.
The correct mags finally showed up at my house yesterday, so I dropped them
and the fuel system components off.
Other than the mags and fuel system, the engine is completely assembled.
Boy it it sure looked pretty sitting there on the engine stand. The intake
tubes and all the nuts/bolts/hardware have been freshly cad-plated. With
that and the new Superior Millenium cyliders, it really looked good.
By the way, Lycon says that they are getting NO complaints or problems with
the Superior Millenium cylinders.
One of the benefits of buying a used engine and overhauling it is that the
pesky oil pressure fitting is already screwed into the accessory case (as
are all the other fittings). That's one less thing I'll have to worry
about.
Lycon has offered to mount my alternator bracket and my B&C starter, so
I'll take those items over there on Monday. Sometime next week they will
run it in the test cell. Then it will be time to write the big check and
bring it home.
Be still, my heart.
For anyone interested, I can now see light at the end of the tunnel. All
the instruments , avionics, and wiring are in. All the fiberglass work on
the empennage tips is done. In a couple of days the wingtip fiberglass
work will be finished. I'm down to the point where there is not much left
to do aft of the firewall. The new Hartzell CS prop is sitting in the
corner. Van's baffling kit is here. The RMI microMonitor is installed and
it's harness is ready to bring through the firewall. The Vetterman SS
crossover exhaust system arrived last week and it's a thing of beauty.
I think I'm down to the last 90 percent.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
Glen:
> Should I leave room
>for a flap position indicator?
No. You can easily see the flaps from inside. Most people put a couple of
little marks on their flaps so that when the mark is even with the trailing
edge of the wing, you know you've got X degrees of flaps.
If you have electric trim, don't forget the trim indicator though.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
engine assembly in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Ed Bundy wrote:
I applaud the folks that are paving the way for installing auto engines.
But until one exists that has more than a handful of operating hours in
more than a few airframes, and has quantifiable data, I'll let the
pioneers have at it.
====
Thanks for your words of applause Ed.
I understand that you don't personally want to *EXPERIMENT* with an auto engine.
But why do you think we care?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governors & other stuff |
Fellow RVers,
I just returned from a trip to Wyoming and while there, stopped by to
visit a very interesting gentleman, Bud McHolland. I've visited with Bud on
several occasions and he's a really neat guy. Bud is working on his 16th
homebuilt (his first kit) and is 82 years old. The kit he's building is a
Glastar so I have an interest as I've been building on one for a year. My
invovement in Capt. Bill's project ended a few days ago as he went to DC10
school and I'm trying to get everything packed for the move to Wyoming. I
worked all day the other day packing stuff in my shop and you can't tell
anything was done. Another challenge will be stuffing my present 30x45 shop
into a 26x26' shop.
(What brought all of this on??) Oh, yeah. Bud bought a new 150 hp
Lycoming from Stoddard Hamilton. It had two governor drives: one on the
aft (normal) location and one on the left front. He's using the left front
location as it eliminates running an expensive oil line and makes working on
the rear of the engine easier.
This engine may be of interest to RVers. I imagine Van's can order this
engine. I don't know if there would be interference with the left front
horizontal baffle. Bud didn't have the governor mounted and the factory
baffling on the Glastar is different than RV baffling (and much more expensive).
I can't wait to get my new shop set up and go back to work on my second
RV-6. After tinkering with the Glastar for a year, I appreciate the RV
building experience even more. The RV is a lot more "bang for the buck" and
a simpler, easier kit to build.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
> Hal Kempthorne wrote:
> **text edited**
> I don't think my recently overhauled Continental could
> run ten hours at full throttle without souping up.
>
>
> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
> halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
Hal
Maybe I'm not correctly interpreting your above statement but
you had better hope that your Continental will run longer than
ten hours at full throttle.
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
<19970731.175745.10470.2.ebundy(at)juno.com>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Ed,
You're probably correct, and that's a safe approach for
those of us who can barely afford to build their first plane.
Fortunately, I have another one to fly while this one is being
designed, built, and tested...... (even tho I'm struggling to get
the monies to complete it...)
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on second RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Tedd,
>
>I've never heard any discussion yet about using the aftermarket
>aluminum block and heads on a Chevy V6 conversion for aircraft
>use. My understanding, from my racing friends, is that you can
>save a lot of weight--perhaps upwards of 100 lbs--with the
>aluminum castings. These are more expensive than stock, of
>course, but I also understand they're not too outrageously
>expensive, because of the very large auto-racing market (many
>thousands of units sold per year).
>
>Have you considered this? I'd be interested to know what
>you've found out.
Yes I have, and I still don't know which way I'll go. Trouble
with taking 100 lbs out of the nose is the obvious weight &
balance problems. Alum heads on the cast steel block result
in an engine weight close to the O-360 power plant weight. That's
certainly within Van's design limits.
>You'll find a really good article on the state of aircraft
>piston engines, which discusses auto conversions, at
>
> http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/article2.html
>
>I'm interested in the Chevy V6, too. I found this article
>gave me a lot to think about regarding the Lycoming/auto-conversion
>question. Warning: it's theoretical, and doesn't really discuss
>any of the practical aspects of either (for homebuilders).
Thanks for the address. I'll monitor it for a while and
see what they have to offer.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on second RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Pos Ind. |
>
>So if I install an "ice light" I'll be able to see the flaps indicator?
>
>Probably wouldn't add 5 or 6 oz.
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
I was going to suggest that, but I thought I would get flamed ;^( . If
you do much night flying in our area I do believe you need one. I used them
a lot in my Pro days, to exact they were one on every night time decent,
clear or in the stuff, when I was boss of the airplane....a good see and be
seen light. Of course I am a sissy, I want lots of engines for IFR and
night flying..when asked why the airplane I flew had 4 engines, I would
answer "cause there wasn't room for five!" 8^)....
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Davis" <jdavis1(at)ford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: QuietFlite Intercom? |
Bruce, How do you modify old DCs to be stereo??
On Jul 31, 1:50pm, RVinfo(at)aol.com wrote:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: QuietFlite Intercom?
>
>
> << I'm looking to the QuiteFlite Odyssey intercom after my tech counselor
> recommended looking into one for great stereo intercom system.
>
> Has anyone used one of these? At $379 it's pretty steep, but after
> renting
> many planes with crappy intercoms I'm willing to pay more if it's top of
> the line. >>
>
>
> I have an older QuiteFlite intercom installed in a steen Skybolt. I bought
> it for $300 during a show special and I had them do their High noise
> modification to it and they modified my DC headsets to be stereo (no stereo
> ones available in those days). Altogether it was about $500, and it was the
> best $500 I spent on the plane.
>
> It has a seperate voice circuit for each mic, so that when you talk, you only
> turn on that mic, not all of them. This reduces the background noise and
> allows for infinitely better voice activation. It has the soft muting which
> reduces the music to part volume when either you or ATC are talking. I
> believe on the newer ones this reduced volume level is adjustable although
> the factory setting on mine is fine. This is much better than the ones that
> simply shut the music off and then turn it back on, even if it is gradual.
> There is also an amplifier in the unit, so that the sound quality of both
> the music and ATC is excellent.
>
> There are a host of other features also and there are some other intercom
> manufacturers that have incorporated many of these features into there units,
> so I don't want to say that Quiteflite is the only one with them. It may be
> more intercom than you need, but if you buy it, you will never regret it, and
> never sit there wishing you had bought the better one.
>
> Bruce Green
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +--
--+
>-- End of excerpt from RVinfo(at)aol.com
--
Jeffrey S. Davis
Senior Research Engineer
Advance Vehicle Technology
Ford Motor Company
Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
charset="iso-8859-1"
The Belted Air folks suggest that if we use the aluminum heads then
certain other bits such as the stock intake manifold may not fit. Use
of a different intake manifold may or may not affect how the cowl fits.
I am told that the aluminum block is about $4,000. By the way, this
engine (iron block or aluminum block) is a 60 degree block especially
made to run as a six cylinder engine. It is not the same as the Chevy
V-6 from the 70's that was a 90 degree V-8 block with two cylinders
lopped off. The old 90 degree V-6 had to use a special crank with
counterweights to help it run in an out of balance condition.
I would really like to see this V-6 thing work. I am not an engineer.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
"...taking 100 lbs. out of the nose is the obvious weight &
balance problems. Alum heads on the cast steel block result
in an engine weight close to the O-360 power plant weight.
That's
certainly within Van's design limits..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Ed Bundy wrote:
> Virtually every article I've ever read on auto conversions has >mentioned
> that it took FAR longer, a very similar amount of money, and LOTS of
> patience.
I guess you didn't read Tracy Crooks articles on his 150 HP Mazda 13B
rotary installation: ~ $6,000.
True on the added time (Tracy says it added about 6 months to his
project but he did his convertion/installation from scratch.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>Thanks for your words of applause Ed.
>
>I understand that you don't personally want to *EXPERIMENT* with an
>auto engine.
>But why do you think we care?
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
Oops, my mistake. I must have inadvertently posted this message to the
Hal Kempthorne List; "Where all *OPINIONS* expressed must agree with
mine", instead of the RV-list - where differing opinions are encouraged.
I'll be more carefull next time Hal.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Tedd McHenry wrote:
>
>
> Fred:
>
> I've never heard any discussion yet about using the aftermarket
> aluminum block and heads on a Chevy V6 conversion for aircraft
> use. My understanding, from my racing friends, is that you can
> save a lot of weight--perhaps upwards of 100 lbs--with the
> aluminum castings. These are more expensive than stock, of
> course, but I also understand they're not too outrageously
> expensive, because of the very large auto-racing market (many
> thousands of units sold per year).
>
> Have you considered this? I'd be interested to know what
> you've found out.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
I've looked through several racing catalogs and have yet to see
performance items for the Chevy V-6. All of the aluminum heads and blocks
are typically for V-8s. I've seen a few items for a Ford V-6 but the
Chevy V-6 doesn't seem to be addressed. If anyone knows of aftermarket
source for the Chevy, please speak up. ( Elon???)
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
My experience comes from tinkering with musclecars, an extended visit and
test flight in the OMABP Vortec V-6 conversion, and 200 hours behind
Lycoming O-320's. I had an open mind towards auto-engine conversions until
I really started doing my homework. Now I'm biased .
Contrary to many numbers I have seen floating around on the list, in reality
a Chevy V6 conversion costs about the same as a freshly rebuilt O-320, and a
completed installation weighs about 100 lbs more based upon the OMABP.
The block with regular heads is about $2400 (that's new...if you go used and
rebuild subtract half that from the following all-up costs). The reduction
drive is about $2800 last time I checked. Add all the extra engineering
time, changing the cam out, making custom engine mounts, redesigning and
customizing the cooling-induction-exhaust-ignition systems and you drive the
price and time until air is under wings upward considerably.
Figure more like $8-9K minimum, at which point Jess Meyers firewall forward
install for around $11K makes sense.
The completed OMABP Vortec RV-6 (and this is a *stripped* airplane, with
basic instrumentation and no gyros) weighs 1150+ lbs. Its heavy - and I
felt it in climb, cruise, and handling performance. If you put lightweight
engine goodies on the Vortec to lighten it up, you drive the price up yet again.
The original test pilot on the OMABP loved the plane until he got a 1020
pound 150hp Lyc fixed pitch RV-6. Guess what he flys rings around with it?
So...you can do a conversion for about $8-10K, buy a conversion for about
$11K, or buy a fresh overhaul O-320 for $11K. Both cost about the same up
front, but the Lycosaur gets you in the air much quicker and the airframe
performs better.
The only economic advantage I see to conversions is rebuild costs. Lets say
one flys 200 hrs per year, with a 1000 TBO and $2K rebuild that's about a
$400 yearly overhaul fund. The Lycoming would be a 2000 TBO and $7K
overhaul, equating to a $700 yearly overhaul fund.
Is $300 dollars a year worth the auto-engine conversion "advantage", the
same all-up cost, 2-3 times the installation time, and a heavier less nimble
airplane?
My answer was NO and I wound up with a 2800tt, 1100smoh 160hp O-320
disassembled, inspected, and reassembled for $6K total.
But, I do hope the pioneers pave the way towards good conversions and/or a
new generation of aircraft engines. My guess is Lycoming and Continental
won't be around when overhaul time comes.
Enjoy,
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Fred:
> Yes I have, and I still don't know which way I'll go. Trouble
> with taking 100 lbs out of the nose is the obvious weight &
> balance problems. Alum heads on the cast steel block result
> in an engine weight close to the O-360 power plant weight. That's
> certainly within Van's design limits.
This surprizes me a bit. At 1100+ lbs, I assumed the OMABP had
an engine (firewall forward) that was heavier than a Lycoming.
Hence my interest in an aluminum block. But, you're absolutely
right, there'd be little point spending all that money just to
create a weight-and-balance problem--if that's how it works out.
The aluminum block would probably also require a forged crank,
adding further expense.
Another thing I'm sure you've done some thinking about is the
radiator. The behind-the-engine setup used on the OMABP plane
(and the Mazda rotary I saw at Arlington) looks more pragmatic
than aerodynamically efficient. Have you looked at a beneath-
the-engine radiator installation, like on the auto-engine ag
planes that were in Sport Aviation a while ago? Is there room
for that on an RV? The ag planes had pretty huge radiators
and inlets, but they were for larger engines operating at lower
speeds. I would think an installation on an RV could be
somewhat smaller and cleaner. (Though it would still have to
be able to handle sustained climbs.)
You might enjoy playing around with Bruce Bowling's Rough
Horsepower Calculator
http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/roughhp.html
You put in displacement, compression ratio, and RPM, and it
tells you roughly how much horsepower to expect. I put in
known numbers from some engines I've worked on, and it gives
pretty accurate results!
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
I know this is short notice, but I have 2 Univ of WI dorm rooms available
at OSH for the nights of Sunday, Aug 3, and Mon, Aug 4. I will be leaving
for OSH Sunday morning. If anyone is interested in these rooms, email or
call me at 715-386-1239.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
I tried this question on the support net but I guess everyone is in OSH.
Where the channel(F-632) that runs from the roll over bar (F-631) of the tip
up type canopy to the F-606 bukhead calls for the F-632 to be located 1/4"
lower than the top of the roll over bar and appears to be the same on the
F-606 Bulkhead.
The right hand top corner of Plan #39, "cabin Frame", there appears
to be a spacer drawing that I have yet to find any other reference to. Have
I missed the spot on the plans that would explain that? Or does the canopy
just slide in there and that is it?
I hope some one is still out there, and has knowlege of or can
follow what I am asking....
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Edward Cole writes:
>
> I've looked through several racing catalogs and have yet to see
> performance items for the Chevy V-6. All of the aluminum heads and blocks
> are typically for V-8s. I've seen a few items for a Ford V-6 but the
> Chevy V-6 doesn't seem to be addressed. If anyone knows of aftermarket
> source for the Chevy, please speak up. ( Elon???)
> Ed Cole
>
Ed:
The Chevy V6 is a standard engine in USAC and NASCAR classes now.
There've got to be plenty of sources. But, you're right, info
is hard to find. For example, Edelbrock's web page gives dyno
curves for Chevy 4.3 V6 engine packages,
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/hpgraphindex.html
but I couldn't find the parts listed in their catalogue. Strange.
But people are winning races with these engines, so the parts
exist.
This is for the 90-degree V6. I noticed that someone earlier said
the OMABP engine is a 60-degree version, which I hadn't heard
before. That's good because it'll be a lot smoother, but bad
because aftermarket parts will be harder to find.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>Ed,
>
> You're probably correct, and that's a safe approach for
>those of us who can barely afford to build their first plane.
>Fortunately, I have another one to fly while this one is being
>designed, built, and tested...... (even tho I'm struggling to get
>the monies to complete it...)
I envy you Fred, I'd love to build a second RV. (although I'm not sure
my first one will ever be "done") Good luck, and keep us posted on the
engine details.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
server @sac4-109.calweb.com ip 207.173.128.109
| From: | "Bill Wootton" <wcw(at)calweb.com> |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9EA9.583A2B00
Project RV6
I'm putting together my wing, and bulkhead assy. The instructions
indicated that the components for the bulkhead were pre-drilled and
"dimpled" Mine aren't dimpled!!
The plans (dwg #15) show the joining of F-604A with F604C as being counter
sunk.
Does anybody know what is the correct method of joining these parts??
Thanks.
Bill Wootton
wcw(at)calweb.com
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9EA9.583A2B00
Project RV6
I'm putting together =
my wing, and bulkhead assy. The instructions indicated that the =
components for the bulkhead were pre-drilled and "dimpled" =
Mine aren't dimpled!!
The plans (dwg #15) show the joining =
of F-604A with F604C as being counter sunk.
Does anybody know =
what is the correct method of joining these =
parts??
Thanks.
Bill Wootton
wcw(at)calweb.com
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9EA9.583A2B00--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Denny, I am at the same place. I will be asking at our RV meeting Monday
night. If you come maybe we can figure it out. If not, I'll e-mail you
Tues.
Ross Mickey
rmickey@ix,netcom.com
I tried this question on the support net but I guess everyone is in OSH.
Where the channel(F-632) that runs from the roll over bar (F-631) of the
tip
up type canopy to the F-606 bukhead calls for the F-632 to be located 1/4"
lower than the top of the roll over bar and appears to be the same on the
F-606 Bulkhead.
The right hand top corner of Plan #39, "cabin Frame", there appears
to be a spacer drawing that I have yet to find any other reference to.
Have
I missed the spot on the plans that would explain that? Or does the canopy
just slide in there and that is it?
I hope some one is still out there, and has knowlege of or can
follow what I am asking....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Robert Acker wrote:
>
>
> My experience comes from tinkering with musclecars, an extended visit and
> test flight in the OMABP Vortec V-6 conversion, and 200 hours behind
> Lycoming O-320's. I had an open mind towards auto-engine conversions until
> I really started doing my homework. Now I'm biased .
>
> Contrary to many numbers I have seen floating around on the list, in reality
> a Chevy V6 conversion costs about the same as a freshly rebuilt O-320, and a
> completed installation weighs about 100 lbs more based upon the OMABP.
>
> The block with regular heads is about $2400 (that's new...if you go used and
> rebuild subtract half that from the following all-up costs). The reduction
> drive is about $2800 last time I checked. Add all the extra engineering
> time, changing the cam out, making custom engine mounts, redesigning and
> customizing the cooling-induction-exhaust-ignition systems and you drive the
> price and time until air is under wings upward considerably.
>
> Figure more like $8-9K minimum, at which point Jess Meyers firewall forward
> install for around $11K makes sense.
>
> The completed OMABP Vortec RV-6 (and this is a *stripped* airplane, with
> basic instrumentation and no gyros) weighs 1150+ lbs. Its heavy - and I
> felt it in climb, cruise, and handling performance. If you put lightweight
> engine goodies on the Vortec to lighten it up, you drive the price up yet again.
>
> The original test pilot on the OMABP loved the plane until he got a 1020
> pound 150hp Lyc fixed pitch RV-6. Guess what he flys rings around with it?
>
> So...you can do a conversion for about $8-10K, buy a conversion for about
> $11K, or buy a fresh overhaul O-320 for $11K. Both cost about the same up
> front, but the Lycosaur gets you in the air much quicker and the airframe
> performs better.
>
> The only economic advantage I see to conversions is rebuild costs. Lets say
> one flys 200 hrs per year, with a 1000 TBO and $2K rebuild that's about a
> $400 yearly overhaul fund. The Lycoming would be a 2000 TBO and $7K
> overhaul, equating to a $700 yearly overhaul fund.
>
> Is $300 dollars a year worth the auto-engine conversion "advantage", the
> same all-up cost, 2-3 times the installation time, and a heavier less nimble
> airplane?
>
> My answer was NO and I wound up with a 2800tt, 1100smoh 160hp O-320
> disassembled, inspected, and reassembled for $6K total.
>
> But, I do hope the pioneers pave the way towards good conversions and/or a
> new generation of aircraft engines. My guess is Lycoming and Continental
> won't be around when overhaul time comes.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
Well put Rob.
Don't op for an auto engine because you think it's going to save you
money. All things considered the % saved on the total cost of the
airplane is minute at best.
The TBO on an auto engine is an unknown period!
But if you want to tinker, go for it.
--
Bud Newhall
bud(at)softcom.net
__|__
__|__ ____(+)____
____(+)____ ' '
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
Boris wrote:
>
>
> The most simple dive brake would be those similar to what the Blanik and
> Schweizer gliders have. It is well suited to the RV wing and would
> require minimal 'beefing-up'. It is simply a hinged slat that is
> controlled by a torque tube. Top surface only would work fine.
>
> Find your nearest glider site and check out the different types of
> spoilers.
Why would anyone want to put dive brakes on an RV? Fly the airplane
within the envelope it was designed for and there's absolutely no need
for them. Why add complexity and weight for no reason?
I've been flying mine for 2 years, had it in all kinds of unusual
attitudes, and never wished I had dive brakes.
If you build an airplane to compensat for every possible stupid thing
that can happen you'll end up with a tank that won't fly worth a shit.
--
Bud Newhall
bud(at)softcom.net
__|__
__|__ ____(+)____
____(+)____ ' '
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | More comments from OSHKOSH |
Yes, OSH does look mighty fine for all, but especially for RV'ers. And the
quality keeps getting better, it seems. There is even a "new" RV3 199x
(where x is recent as in 6 maybe). I also seem to recall being told that
half of the Harmon Rocket population was/is even here.
The fly-by of 25 RV's (with Van in the lead, flying the first RV-3 I seem
to recall [recent paint job] and six "squadrons" of four. Included were
RV3,4,6 & 8.
And yes, there really is a "4-place" RV6 here. More like a 2+2 if you ask
me. Interesting ship. Don't hold me to this as this is from memory and it
is VERY late ... stretched 14 inches, rear seats facing aft (ala White
Lightning), 260HP engine, "swingback" (my choice of words) canopy.
When asked at the seminar if they had considered a four place and if so was
it like the one above, Van basically said a) it was thought about, b) it is
NOT a current priority item (the RV8A IS), and c) NO, it was not like the
one described.
Finally, there are 3-4 RVs that I would expect to get high marks in the
judging. They are nice. I won't venture to say which ones I think this
about. And since it will probably be the next millenium before I get one
here, my hat is off to ALL who have.
James
RV6AQ ...finally got the new autopilot capstan motor mounted in wing (great
service from S-TEC)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine .. high performance parts |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Regarding a source for high performance Chevy V-6 parts ..
General Motors publishes a performance parts catalog. It is available
from any dealer. The aluminum V-6 block is part number 10051141. The
parts catalog says that it is 47 pounds lighter than the production cast
iron rear wheel drive block. It comes rough-bored and can be
over-bored.
The aluminum cylinder heads are part number 10048649. The heads feature
splayed valves for better breathing and centrally located spark plugs.
The splayed valves may require use of a special intake manifold, the
catalog doesn't say. The catalog also doesn't tell us how much lighter
than cast iron the aluminum heads are.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
Bud Newhall wrote:
> Why would anyone want to put dive brakes on an RV? Fly the airplane
> within the envelope it was designed for and there's absolutely no need
> for them. Why add complexity and weight for no reason?
> I've been flying mine for 2 years, had it in all kinds of unusual
> attitudes, and never wished I had dive brakes.
> If you build an airplane to compensat for every possible stupid thing
> that can happen you'll end up with a tank that won't fly worth a shit.
Several reasons for "speed brakes" not dive brakes.
1. Better descents with power to keep the engine happy.
2. Military pilots know how usefull they are for close
formation flying.
3. I sure liked the Boeing speed brakes.
4. "Stuff" happens.
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>Denny, I am at the same place. I will be asking at our RV meeting Monday
>night. If you come maybe we can figure it out. If not, I'll e-mail you
>Tues.
Sounds good Ross, I'll sure try to make it.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
--------------BEC19DAFA55E2A745A664449
Well, 2 steps forward, 1 step back. After balancing the elevators, I
was going to redrill the horns where the control tube connects between
the elevator halves because I thought the builder had misaligned them
when drilling, and this was the reason the tips were about 3/8 inch out
of alignment with each other. Seems the one elevator I didn't reskin
has some twist to it. This is where the 3/8 inch misalignment comes
in. I don't know the aerodynamic ramifications of this, but I think it
looks cruddy. (When one tip is in alignment with the horizontal
stabilizer, the other tip is out by 3/8 inch). Is this something that
won't hurt the flying characteristics? The previous owner said it flew
great. Ya da ya da ya. I need to hear from some experts, again. Should
I reskin the elevator to get the twist out, or let it go? Or is there
another solution?
Thank you. Michael
--------------BEC19DAFA55E2A745A664449
Well, 2 steps forward, 1 step back.
After balancing the elevators, I was going to redrill the horns where the
control tube connects between the elevator halves because I thought the
builder had misaligned them when drilling, and this was the reason the
tips were about 3/8 inch out of alignment with each other. Seems
the one elevator I didn't reskin has some twist to it. This
is where the 3/8 inch misalignment comes in. I don't know the aerodynamic
ramifications of this, but I think it looks cruddy. (When one tip
is in alignment with the horizontal stabilizer, the other tip is out by
3/8 inch). Is this something that won't hurt the flying characteristics?
The previous owner said it flew great. Ya da ya da ya. I need to
hear from some experts, again. Should I reskin the elevator to get
the twist out, or let it go? Or is there another solution?
Thank you. Michael
--------------BEC19DAFA55E2A745A664449--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
Based on many I've seen don't think 3/8 is uncommon. It may actually be a
good sign. To achieve minimum drag and least "twisting force" on the tail
during flight, you should rig the tail so that the trailing edges are the
same level at zero elevator. You can do even better with a smart level and
estimating the span wise point where the mid point of the area is. Rig so
the angle is the same on both elevators, as measured on each side.
On the other hand if you see an RV where the elevators match the stabilizer
on both sides it probably means he is out of rig per the above!
Mine has a little twist in one elevator and a warp in one counterweight area.
I rigged as above and it flies straight and is in trim. I think I go as
fast as everybody else but not sure.
d Walsh RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>> Virtually every article I've ever read on auto conversions has
>>mentioned that it took FAR longer, a very similar amount of money,
and LOTS
>>of patience.
>
>I guess you didn't read Tracy Crooks articles on his 150 HP Mazda 13B
>rotary installation: ~ $6,000.
>True on the added time (Tracy says it added about 6 months to his
>project but he did his convertion/installation from scratch.
Actually, this is exactly what I mean. The reason it only cost $6000 was
*because* he did the entire conversion/installation from scratch. That
$6000 doesn't even begin to factor in the cost of his labor. If Tracy
were to come out with a FWF product, I bet it would be very near the cost
of a Lycoming.
Most people don't have the time, skill, or desire to completely engineer
their own engine installation. Those that do, great! I hope to see
reliable, time-tested automotive engines powering thousands of aircraft
someday. In the meantime, I'll be out flying...
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder stiffeners |
What is the best way to measure & space rivets for
rudder to look the most uniform? Fan spacing with that
tool I've seen?
Confuse in Central Ore-----Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder stiffeners |
>What is the best way to measure & space rivets for
>rudder to look the most uniform? Fan spacing with that
>tool I've seen?
>Confuse in Central Ore-----Mike Comeaux mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
Mike,
Of course, the fan spacing tool would work but thirty some dollars is a
little expensive for no more than you'll use the tool.
Once you've painted your flush riveted airplane, you won't notice the
rivets. (I know, I know, not being precise upsets your sense of "symmetry".
I have the same problem.)
I bought a fan tool back in the old, "lay out your own hole" days. I
don't use it much. Instead, I laid out rivet spacings of 1", 1 1/4", 1
1/2", etc. on strips of aluminum scrap with a "Sharpie", a different scale
on each of the four edges. To use, put marks on each end of your stiffner
for the start and finish rivets and then grab the strip with the appropriate
rivet spacing. Remembering that it is permissable to put in more rivets
than called for, place a mark on the strip on one of the end rivet locations
and look at the other end and "eye ball" the distance. As you mark off, say
5 rivet locations, move the strip slightly each time you mark a rivet. With
a little practice, by the time you reach the end of the line, you will have
some fairly evenly spaced rivet locations.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
>
>Ed Bundy wrote:
>
>I applaud the folks that are paving the way for installing auto engines.
>But until one exists that has more than a handful of operating hours in
>more than a few airframes, and has quantifiable data, I'll let the
>pioneers have at it.
>====
>
>Thanks for your words of applause Ed.
>
>I understand that you don't personally want to *EXPERIMENT* with an auto
engine.
>But why do you think we care?
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
Gosh, Hal, I imagine there are several builders out of the 700+ listers
who are interested in the auto vs aircraft engine discussion. I have the
same opinion as Ed. I feel the same way about some of the experimental
props. My interest will perk up concerning auto engines when I see a flight
line full of them.
I admire the innovators among us and progress in aviation would have come
to a stand still without them. But, building an airplane is a time and
money consuming activity. For the quickest, least frustrating building
experience, going with a proven design and proven power plants/props is
probably the way to go. Another thing not mentioned in this discussion is
re-sale value. I'd much rather buy a "pre-owned" RV with an aircraft engine.
By the way, Hal. Ed has a flying RV. He doesn't need to be on the list.
He probably stays around to "give back something" to fellow RV builders in
appreciation for the help that he got from people on the list. I've been on
the list for awhile (maybe too long, for some) and have seen several "old
timers" curtail their participation on the list or quit all together.
Often, I'll write them "off list" and ask what happened. Generally, they
keep a low profile because they have been "dumped on" by someone they
thought they were trying to help. I takes a lot of time to monitor the list
and to try & write a helpful response to a question. I care what Ed, or any
other person with a flying RV, has to say. A tip from one of them might
help me end up with a better performing, safer, more airworthy airplane.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Denny, it just slides in there, held in place by the pop rivets down either
side. Actually there is a sandwich in that area of the F-688 gusset, the .032
spacer, the F-606 bulkhead flange, and the F-632B angle between the F-674 skin
and the F-632A channel that creates a pocket for the rear canopy to rest. It
won't look exactly like the dwg because the flange of F-606 and the F-688
gusset overhang aren't as wide as the F-632B angle. I also made the spacer in
three pieces to fit the F-606 flange that has an indent formed in it for some
unknown reason just like it did on my first 6A seven years ago.
Les/RV-6AQB/Canopy/Tacoma WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Denny Harjehausen
Sent: Friday, August 01, 1997 3:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cabin Frame
Or does the canopy just slide in there and that is it?
I hope some one is still out there, and has knowlege of or can
follow what I am asking....
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
Hi,
I am in the process of building the canopy frame for an RV-6 tip-up.
Ref DWG 51.
How does Wd-625B (side frame) connect to F-631A (rear piece of frame)?
The only reference I have found was on Dwg51, View B-B which shows two
AN3-5A bolts on each side.
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Bill, I believe the instruction pertaining to dimpling of the parts in
question is an error because their .063 thickness is right at the maximum for
dimpling and there is no reason to do so. The F-604A is machine countersunk
for the AN426 rivets on my quickbuild and I'm sure that's what I did on my
first kit as well.
Les/RV-6AQB/canopy/Tacoma WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Bill Wootton
Sent: Friday, August 01, 1997 6:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: F-604A/C
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9EA9.583A2B00
Project RV6
I'm putting together my wing, and bulkhead assy. The instructions
indicated that the components for the bulkhead were pre-drilled and
"dimpled" Mine aren't dimpled!!
The plans (dwg #15) show the joining of F-604A with F604C as being counter
sunk.
Does anybody know what is the correct method of joining these parts??
Thanks.
Bill Wootton
wcw(at)calweb.com
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9EA9.583A2B00
Project RV6
I'm putting together =
my wing, and bulkhead assy. The instructions indicated that the =
components for the bulkhead were pre-drilled and "dimpled" =
Mine aren't dimpled!!
The plans (dwg #15) show the joining =
of F-604A with F604C as being counter sunk.
Does anybody know =
what is the correct method of joining these =
parts??
Thanks.
Bill Wootton
wcw(at)calweb.com
------=_NextPart_000_01BC9EA9.583A2B00--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>I am in the process of building the canopy frame for an RV-6 tip-up.
>
>Ref DWG 51.
>
>How does Wd-625B (side frame) connect to F-631A (rear piece of frame)?
>
>The only reference I have found was on Dwg51, View B-B which shows two
>AN3-5A bolts on each side.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
Glenn it looks as the two bolts you mention goes thru the Wd625B, which is
welded to the Wd625A, thru the F-631A and thru the Wd-622 and that is it.
That looks as it would be strong enough.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder stiffeners |
Mike,
the best way I've found is to mark the leading edge rivet then the aft edge
rivet,then take your rivet fan spacing tool and stretch between the two, your
rivet spacing distance will vary alittle but it will look great. I might add
to just use the rivet fan as a guide for spacing not for centering, draw a
centerline, mark the holes[using the fan] then use a small combination square
to cross your centerline.I used this method and got great, consistent
results.hope this helps
chris marion
rv-6 r-elevator
cincy oh wishing it was oshkosh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com wrote:
> I need to hear from some experts, again. Should
> I reskin the elevator to get the twist out, or let it go? Or is there
> another solution?
I'm no expert. If I was an expert, I wouldn't be building a second left
aileron due to the first being twisted 3/4". I did email Vans about it
-- Bill said it'll fly OK like this, but I didn't like the look of it.
Based on that, I guess your elevator is probably OK.
I tried the drill-out and rebuild route, with limited success. This
about halved the twist to 3/8", but drilling out all those rivets meant
a few holes got damaged.
I also tried the "force it into shape" technique. This pretty much
guarantees oil-canning. Don't try this unless you've already decided to
throw it away if it doesn't work.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 Glare Shield.
The instructions state that the amount of overhang on the instrument
panel glare shield (canopy forward skin) will vary to suit the builder's
taste. Any suggested tastes?
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
--
MZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder stiffeners |
> >What is the best way to measure & space rivets for
> >rudder to look the most uniform? Fan spacing with that
> >tool I've seen?
I bought that tool, and did use it on the rudder but haven't had much
other use for it.
If you do it this way, and are concerned about the cosmetics, I suggest
you put the same number of rivets in every stiffener, regardless of the
stiffener's length. I used the fan tool to put in the right number of
rivets according to Vans spacing and the length of the stiffener. Each
time you change the number of rivets, the pattern changes. In the end,
there's no pattern across the whole rudder.
> Once you've painted your flush riveted airplane, you won't notice the
> rivets. (I know, I know, not being precise upsets your sense of
> "symmetry". I have the same problem.)
Me too! I hope you're right about them becoming invisible!
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Thanks, shimmy problem solved |
I want to thank everyone on this list who helped me solve a wheel shimmy problem
on my new RV-6A..
Apparently here's what happened: When I assembled the nose wheel structure I tightened
the base nut to acheive Van's recommended 22 lbs of breakout force. This
worked well for the first dozen or so landings. There was no shimmy. Landings were
normal and I never really thought much that there might be an oncoming problem.
However on landing number 13 a big problem (or so it seemed) suddenly surfaced.
All I knew was that something on the undercarraige began shaking so bad that
on roll out I
thought I somehow ripped off a wheel pant and was probably dragging the remains
of my left brake structure as well. When i stopped and got out of the plane,
I of course
realized that this wasn't the case. But I pulled the pants anyway to inspect the
area. Everything seemed normal. Now with the pants off, I took off again and
came in for
another landing. The shaking was still there, and now I realized it was not the
mains but the nose wheel. By the way, this is not a minor vibration. This was
serious enough
that i really thought for a moment (until the speed got below about 20 mph) I was
about to lose the entire nose wheel strut and with it the prop, the lower cowl,
and
without doubt expensive parts of the engine too.
Anyway, it turned out that the suggestions made right here were right on the money.
You guys confirmed that after the hardware had a chance to "settle in", the
nose
strut breakout pressure would need to be reset. And today when i did an inspection,
it proved just to be the case. The original setting of 22 lbs "settled in"
to about 8-9
lbs. I tightened the nut about 1 full turn to reachieve 22 lbs and the problem
went away.
This is my first experience with a free castering nose wheel or with any kind of
shimmy problem. It's good to know that there is so much expert and willing experience
right
here within reach of my living room. Thanks again.
However, now that one problem is solved, I am having another, also to do with the
undercarraige, but I'll leave that to the next post.
Andy Gold
RV-6A N-5060 9 hrs TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Brake noise problem |
Bud Newhall wrote:
>
>
> Boris wrote:
> >
> >
> > The most simple dive brake would be those similar to what the Blanik and
> > Schweizer gliders have. It is well suited to the RV wing and would
> > require minimal 'beefing-up'. It is simply a hinged slat that is
> > controlled by a torque tube. Top surface only would work fine.
> >
> > Find your nearest glider site and check out the different types of
> > spoilers.
>
> Why would anyone want to put dive brakes on an RV? Fly the airplane
> within the envelope it was designed for and there's absolutely no need
> for them. Why add complexity and weight for no reason?
> I've been flying mine for 2 years, had it in all kinds of unusual
> attitudes, and never wished I had dive brakes.
> If you build an airplane to compensat for every possible stupid thing
> that can happen you'll end up with a tank that won't fly worth a shit.
> --
> Bud Newhall
> bud(at)softcom.net
>
> __|__
> __|__ ____(+)____
> ____(+)____ ' '
> ' '
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +-- --+
The next problem I'm facing (after the nose wheel shimmy) is an extreme squeal
in the left brake.
This problem presented itself severly with the first taxi.. It then seemed to get
a little better with each flight and is now getting quite bad again.
The problem is a loud squeal and high pitch vibration every time the left brake
is deployed, regardless of speed or how hard I step on the pedal. In fact the
only time I don't
get it is for quick moments on landing roll out. In other words as I deploy brakes
after touch down it squeals right away. Then if I release the brakes wait
1-2 seconds and
re-engage them they will be OK for about another second before they begin to squeal
again. I've also noticed that while they are squealing, stopping power is
very
diminished. By the way, this is a loud squeal. Loud enough to be clearly heard
at the FBO about 1/2 mile away.
Now, upon inspection of the brakes I find nothing abnormal. The caliber and disk
make even contact. There is no obvious grinding of metal. The brake's rivets
are properly
sunken below the level of the pad. Pedal pressure on both sides also seem even
and firm. The right brake is fine and always was.
I have had two suggestions so far. The first was that the brakes need to be re-bled
and that the squeal is being caused by a very high frequency grabbing and
releasing of
the pad to the disc due to air in the brake lines.
The other suggestion was that the metal content of the pad was too high and that
I should buy a set of "softer pads". (These are the standard Cleveland brakes
supplied by Van's). He said that the brake pad companies, in an effort to increase
the life expectancy, were greatly increasing the metal content in the pads.
Apparanetly in
my pads, they have done so too much and this is the result. He thought that if
I replace the pads with "softer" ones with less percentage metal content, that
the problem
would go away.
Any thoughts? Has anybody experienced a similar problem?
Andy Gold
RV-6A N-5060 9 hrs TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Garretts" <bgarrett(at)fast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolting on the wings... |
>
> >Help!
> >
> >Any suggestions for bolting the wings to the fuselage on a -6.
> > . . . snip . . .
> >
> I was just about to post a general FYI on this. Last Sunday I mated my
> wings to fuse for the final time :)) I had heard that the close tolerance
> bolts are a pain in the &##. The following procedure worked VERY well for me:
>
> . . . snip . . .
>
> 3) Now for those close tolerance bolts. Get yourself a small block of dry ice
> and freeze those bolts prior to installing. One at a time, remove the
> temporary hardware store bolts and spray a shot of silicon lubricant in each
> hole. Install a frozen close tolerance bolt, work very fast as they warm up
> quite rapidly. I did have to use a hammer to drive the bolts in, but they did
> go in without much trouble. I installed the four outboard 1/4" close bolts
> first. That set the alignment for the remaining 3/8 inboard bolts.
>
> 4) After all bolts are in, install the nuts, using proper torque. Before I
> get flamed with dry torque vs. wet torque, if your concerned about it, clean
> all exposed threads first. Remember the bolts were installed in lubricated
> holes.
>
> . . . snip . . .
>
> 8) The dry ice helped a lot. Just work fast to get the bolts driven prior to
> them heating up. I didn't need to hold the heads of the close tolerance bolts
> when torquing the nuts. The fit was that tight !!!!
I'm no expert on matters of this sort, but I have a concern about this
procedure. If it wasn't necessary to hold the heads of the close tolerance bolts
when torquing the nuts, then it seems to me that the nuts were torqued against
the resistance to the shafts inside the spar holes rather than against the
heads of the respective bolts. It seems to me that this is almost the
equivalent of not installing the nuts at all since there was little or no
assured compression of the spar strips. Is there the possibility that after
thousands of flexings of the wings and vibrations of the engine that the spar
stips will "settle in" to their original pattern drilled by Phlogiston and
especially with the silicon lubricant present be able to loosen?
The technique sounds great if this is not a problem. I know they used this
technique (w/ liquid nitrogen) to bolt the structure of Camden Yards Stadium
together, but that's not my airplane spar.
Is this a safe procedure? I'm a long way from this step but one of the values
I see in this forum is to test ideas for validity. We all want to be safe.
Best regards,
Bill
Bill Garrett (bgarrett(at)fast.net)
Pottstown, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MN RV-4 Accident |
>
> Several days prior to the accident, the pilot had told a friend that he
had
> fallen out of an aerobatic maneuver, exceeded Vne to approximately 250
mph
> and experienced severe elevator flutter. He landed without incident and
> apparently inspected the aircraft externally. The pushrod failed on the
> next flight.
Kosta and I were tail chasing a few days before his accident and after the
incident described here. It was not the next flight.
I have also "heard" that there was a corresponding dent on the Horizontal
Stab, and Elev. balance horn. If a stick were lodged in that area the tube
could have broke from the impact when his body hit the stick.
Your comment about not speculating was a good one. The only thing we know
is that we don't know. Kosta and I were going to OSH togather in our
RV-4's I went alone. He is missed.
Doug Rozendaal N240
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
>Hi,
>
>I am in the process of building the canopy frame for an RV-6 tip-up.
>
>Ref DWG 51.
>
>How does Wd-625B (side frame) connect to F-631A (rear piece of frame)?
>
>The only reference I have found was on Dwg51, View B-B which shows two
>AN3-5A bolts on each side.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
Denny's response:--
"Glenn it looks as the two bolts you mention goes thru the Wd625B, which is
welded to the Wd625A, thru the F-631A and thru the Wd-622 and that is it.
That looks as it would be strong enough.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH"
Glenn,
.. Denny is probably right on the strength aspect, but you don't
want to drill the holes for the Wd-622 weldments until you are fitting the
canopy lock assy., well after the plexiglas is fitted.
As you align the canopy frame pieces, use four 1/8 rivets on each
of the Wd-625B parts, placing them with clearance for later fitting of the
Wd-622 weldment. Without the canopy frame being solidly riveted at all
joints, you will find the later plexi. fitting process to be extremely
difficult, especially with the canopy gas struts fitted.
You are right, the plans don't show these rivets, but if you look
carefully (with a magnifying glass ...:^) you can see clecoes in these
rivet holes on the first page of the canopy fitting photos in the
instruction book - the page with the production canopy frame, not the
prototype one.
... hope this helps ...
.... Gil (I didn't go to Oshkosh) Alexander
RV6A, #20701, still on hold.
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
. I care what Ed, or any
> other person with a flying RV, has to say. A tip from one of them might
> help me end up with a better performing, safer, more airworthy airplane.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
Well said, and Amen to that .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)msn.com> |
Bill:
You'll need to countersink F604A from the wing spar side.Take a look at
section c-c' on dwg 15.
No dimpled parts in that area on my bird.
Paul Osterman III
Anderson, Ca
RV6A -jigging fuselage
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Bill Wootton
Sent: Friday, August 01, 1997 6:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: F-604A/C
"Bill Wootton" said:
I'm putting together my wing, and bulkhead assy...
The plans (dwg #15) show the joining of F-604A with F604C as being counter
sunk... what is the correct method of joining these parts??
________________________________________________________________________________
Seems the one elevator I didn't reskin
>>has some twist to it. This is where the 3/8 inch misalignment comes
>>in. I don't know the aerodynamic ramifications of this, but I think it
>>looks cruddy. (When one tip is in alignment with the horizontal
>>stabilizer, the other tip is out by 3/8 inch). Is this something that
>Michael;
>
>I think the worst part of it is the blow to your ego, it was to me. I had
>exactly the same problem with my 6. Mine I made back before the V jig came
>out from Vans and it too had a 3/8 inch difference between the leading edge
>of the counterbalance leading edge and the hor. stab. If one side was level
>the other side was off 3/8. Everyone kept telling me I had them misaligned
>when I drilled the horns, I didn't believe them. I placed the airframe in a
>level flight position and did measurements from the points to the floor.
>Each point on one side matched the same point on the other side except the
>leading edge of the counterbalance. It was a twist, not offset when drilled.
>
>I came to the conclusion that it was better aerodynamical to have the
>leading edge off rather than the trailing edge even if it was more
>noticeable to the eye. (Being next to the hor. stab. it was more noticeable
>than the trailing edge being divided by the rudder and not having an
>immediate reference). If I would align the leading edge, then the trailing
>edge was off about an inch or so, because of the length of fulcrum from the
>hinge. I figured that would be more drag.
>
>I bit the bullet and left it the way it was. It didn't affect the flying at
>all that I could tell, it would fly in trim easily and the bird is fast. It
>is the one they are talking about outrunning the OMAPA 200 hp Chevy powered
>plane.
>
>After all of this, I made an effort to check other planes at fly ins etc.
>Well more than half of them have the same problem, some at the leading edge
>and others at the trailing edge.
>John Darby RV6 sold
>Stephenville TX
>johnd@our-town.com
>
>
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder stiffeners |
Mike:
A trick for even and consitent rivet spacing I picked up from a Canadian
at the the Northeast RV Builders Forum in Fulton NY a couple of years
ago uses polyester elastic braid to space the rivets.
This braid is the same stuff peple use when sewing clothes and need to
put an elastic waistband or armband in a piece of clothing. It can be
picked up at any discount store like K-Mart or Walmart and costs less
then $2.00 for more then you'll ever need.
Simple cut off a foot of the stuff and using a sharpie mark off spacing
on the braid 3/4" apart. Anchor one end of the braid to the first rivet
hole on the part you want to rivet and stretch the braid to the last
hole you want to rivet. The spacing will come out nearly perfect. Of
course, spot check the spacing so that you are not exceeding the
allowable distance between rivet holes for that asembly.
Try it you'll like it.
Fran Malczynski
fmalczy(at)IBM.net
Olcott, NY
RV6(undecided) Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Thanks to all of you that responded to my elevator question. I decided
to leave it and see how it flies the way it is. All I have to do is
finish fairing in the front of the canopy before I schedule the FAA
inspection. I sure thought this little bit of fiberglassing would be
easier! See Ya..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
aol.com!Bumflyer(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> On the other hand if you see an RV where the elevators match the stabilizer
> on both sides it probably means he is out of rig per the above!
>
>
When I built my elevators for my -4 I had built the fixture to
hold them in place while they were riveted together with a spirit level.
When I installed them on the stabilizer they were twisted about 3/8".
Not liking the effect and the eyesore of them not being even with the
stabilizer, I talked to Van at Oshkosh '95. He thought they would fly ok
like that, however there might be a slight rolling tendency with them
being out of rig.
I reordered all the stuff to rebuild them. I also bought a
digital level. I also spent much more time with the holding fixture.
The second set turned out true. They are even with the stabilizer at the
front and they are even with each other at the back.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap,TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Brake noise problem |
The problem is a loud squeal and high pitch vibration every time the left brake
is deployed,
regardless of speed or how hard I step on the pedal. In fact the only time I don't
get it is for quick moments on landing roll out. In other words as I deploy brakes
after touch down
it squeals right away. Then if I release the brakes wait 1-2 seconds and
re-engage them they will be OK for about another second before they begin to squeal
again. I've
also noticed that while they are squealing, stopping power is very
diminished. By the way, this is a loud squeal. Loud enough to be clearly heard
at the FBO about 1/2
mile away.
If it was my problem, I'd re bind in the pads and if that didn't work I'd swap
left and right
pads to see if the problem went with it
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | RV Tip Up / Cabin frame |
Gil...thanks, I searched the plans and saw nothing else but the bolts
and nothing about the rivets you pointed out. Makes sense, I
should know better by this stage of the game!
Les...thanks for the cabin frame help. A couple of us on the net are at
that spot.
The RV-net sure has been a blessing to me.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com wrote:
>> I need to hear from some experts, again. Should
>> I reskin the elevator to get the twist out, or let it go? Or is there
>> another solution?
I don't know what advise you have gotten on this yet. So I will
throw my sad tale out to the RV world. I built my flaps and ailerons in a
jig, something like George O. did on his RV tape. I found after the last
flap was done it was warped about 5/8", it then dawned on me to check the
the others on a flap surface (dah) and they all had a warp in them. Oh
golly, I thought, really! I called Van's and Tom Green told me to drill out
enough rivets on one side to be able to get them to lay flat on a very flap
surface. Clamp them flat so they couldn't move and re-rivet them. A couple
of areas I had to go to over size rivets. As Jim Cone says, "thats another
reason it won't be a grand champion". On a couple of the control sufaces I
had to turn them over after re-riveting all the first surface and drill out
a batch of rivets on the other side and clamp and re-rivet that side. They
all lay perfectly flat now, so his suggestion worked. After I fly it,
whether they will stay perfectly straight...? Tom also so said he felt the
"Only Sure Way" was to clamp them to a flat surface in the begining. And not
use a jig.
It might work on you Elevator....anyway I can say it sure worked on
my flap and ailerons.
Good luck on it...
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Glenn, a picture I have of one of Van's 6s shows AN470AD4-XX rivets in the
corners of the angle on Wd-625B. That's what I did on both my kits after I
was sure of the fit.
Les/RV-6AQB/fitting tip-up canopy/Tacoma WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Glenn & Judi
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 1997 11:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Tipup
Hi,
I am in the process of building the canopy frame for an RV-6 tip-up.
Ref DWG 51.
How does Wd-625B (side frame) connect to F-631A (rear piece of frame)?
The only reference I have found was on Dwg51, View B-B which shows two
AN3-5A bolts on each side.
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder stiffeners |
Mike, since each stiffener is different, about the best you can do is to place
the front and rear rivets on each stiffener in a straight line to each other.
Then use whatever spacing method you choose to lay out the inbetween rivets
staying within the minimum limits, of course.. Personally, I've used the
rivet fan spacing tool almost exclusively on two kits with excellent results.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of mcomeaux
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 1997 8:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder stiffeners
What is the best way to measure & space rivets for
rudder to look the most uniform? Fan spacing with that
tool I've seen?
Confuse in Central Ore-----Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake noise problem |
Your noise sure sounds like my experiences. Mine followed the same pattern.
I continued to do extra braking to wear them in. While doing that the other
one started squealing and moaning. Finally after about 30 landings they
stopped and at 40 hours I no longer have any noise. I did a lot of
inspecting and cleaning and sanding down of the rotors but don't think any of
that was a significant factor. They just seemed to need a lot of breaking
(braking) in. On the other hand they seem very effective and will hold my
180 HP with c/s at full power.
Good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
Was your warped flap experience with pre-drilled skins?
We've finished the tail, and the spars, and have the right wing in a
jig now. It seems as though it would be hard to warp one of the
things with pre-drilled skins. We haven't attached the rudder or
elevators yet, but they do appear to be straight. Perhaps they only
appear straight until matched up? The moment of truth... :-)
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>Well, 2 steps forward, 1 step back. After balancing the elevators, I
>was going to redrill the horns where the control tube connects between
>the elevator halves because I thought the builder had misaligned them
>when drilling, and this was the reason the tips were about 3/8 inch out
>of alignment with each other.
Michael,
Many RVs including mine have a misalingment in the elevator horns when the
elevators are correctly positioned. This does not imply "twist" in the
elevator of necessity although such could indeed exist. In most cases the
malalignment is due to the inboard end of the elevator spar being not quite
normal to the chord line. This in turn arises from the end rib being not
absolutely dimensionally correct. I have it on my list of things to check
when I build my second RV (hysterical laughter from family). So long as edge
clearances and elevator travel limits can be achieved the "ugly"
misalignment of the horns does not matter.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
RV6A (engine arrives in 10 days!)
________________________________________________________________________________
> Does anybody have a good way to cut the oil dip stick door from the
> top cowl. I saw some that looked very bad at sun-n-fun this year,
> I want to avoid that.
> I was also thinking about using Hartwell latches, does anyone have
> experience with these
>
> thanks
> Craig Hiers
> RV-4 N143CH
> Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OSH!!! Just got back!!! |
Well I just returned from OSH and WOW was it great.. I think the guys at the
Van's tent were getting tired of me. Rows and rows of RVs. That bright
yellow -8 sure was nice looking. I tried it on for fit and it was just
right!!!
Also I think there were a few other types of airplanes there but not really
sure. I didn't leave the RV area much!!!
Richard Clayton
Brownsville, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
<33E52E6A.4B4D(at)worldnet.att.net>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Craig,
Use on of those thisn Exacto saw blades. You can get one
at any hobby shop.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on second RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
Hello Listers:
Just one guy's brief (hopefully!) view on this year's Convention. This was
the second time I've made it to OSH; first time was some 16 years ago (lots
of reasons for not making it back sooner; too many to list here). Over
all, I thought it was a great convention for the three days I was there
(Wednesday-Friday). I spent the majority of my time in the RV tiedown
area, in the exhibit halls, or watching the airshow; didn't get much into
any other areas, either homebuilt, antique/classic, rotorwing, ultralight,
or warbird. Did spend some time looking through the various tent displays
down by the warbird area (of course, had to drop in on Raytheon's display;
much better this year than last, from what I was told)...and of course,
also got down to Van's tent a few times (not soon enough to sign up for an
RV-8 demo ride before they were all booked up until after we had to
leave...shame on me!!).
Got to personally meet or see several folks, including Bill Benedict and
Tom Green (thanks for answering my questions and allowing me to check out
RV-8 #2), Jeremy Benedict (awesome web page, Jeremy!), George and Becki
Orndorff, Carl Hay, Jon Johansen, Alan Tolle, and a host of other RV
builders who were more than happy to answer questions, talk about their
airplanes, and allow me to shoot photos of their airplanes. Lots of good
information...and lots of beautiful RVs! Not sure what the final count
will be; Van was quoting 203 in attendance at one point, others I heard of
were as high as 210, and I know there were others scattered over Wittman
field that probably weren't included in the count, and there were others at
placeds such as Fond du Lac, so I don't doubt that Van got his 250 in
attendance. There were mass RV flybys on at least two of the days (25 RVs
participated, I believe). I recognized several RVs as being Listers'
airplanes, although I didn't get to meet most of them, and I didn't get to
see each and every RV that was there: Don Wentz, Jerry VanGrunsven, Doug
Rozendaal, Dr. John Cocker, Mark Frederick's Rocket, Jim Ayers, Herman
Dierks...probably many more than I mentioned here (memory being what it
is).
I attended Van's RV-6/6A forum on Thursday...good stuff. The fellow who's
in charge of the Young Eagles program (Joe?) had nothing but great things
to say about the RV-6A and Van's help in choosing the right aircraft for
the YE program.
I especially want to thank Rick McBride (and publicly state he and his
partners have a beautiful -6!) for the demo flight on Friday morning...this
was my first flight in an RV (or any homebuilt, for that matter), and I can
tell you, my RV Grin is permanently affixed!! :)
I now have my first aircraft construction tool (O.K., so a dead-blow hammer
is nothing real expensive or exotic) and my first Orndorff videos...just
gotta spring for the kit! *sigh*...
Bill Mills
P.S.... to those who expressed concern about the general public being
admitted to the flight line...while I personally did not witness too much
of what I would consider gross misconduct, there were problems with folks
smoking on the flight line, more trash, etc., and I did hear one of the
volunteers mention that there were more problems (e.g., having to keep kids
(or adults!) from running into still-turning propellers). It will be
interesting to see what the others say.
________________________________________________________________________________
<33E52E6A.4B4D(at)worldnet.att.net>
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>> Does anybody have a good way to cut the oil dip stick door from the
>> top cowl. I saw some that looked very bad at sun-n-fun this year,
>> I want to avoid that.
>> I was also thinking about using Hartwell latches, does anyone have
>> experience with these
I just used the Norton cut-off wheel that comes in the finishing kit.
Mark the line with a sharpie, and very carefully cut on it. Remember,
that you don't have the luxury of either side of the line being "scrap".
The Norton wheel cuts a fairly wide line, but you don't want it real
tight or the door will be very hard to open.
I'm not familiar with Hartwell latches, but I have thought about
replacing the clunky stock fasteners with Camlocks or similar, but the
stock fasteners sure are convenient!
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
Craig Hiers wrote:
> > Does anybody have a good way to cut the oil dip stick door from the
> > top cowl. I saw some that looked very bad at sun-n-fun this year,
> > I want to avoid that.
> > I was also thinking about using Hartwell latches, does anyone have
> > experience with these
I messed up the part I cut out of the cowl, so I made the door out of
alum. I just formed it by hand to match the curve of the cowl. I think
it's easier to get a good fit this way.
I used the Hartwell latch and it works great.
--
Bud Newhall
bud(at)softcom.net
__|__
__|__ ____(+)____
____(+)____ ' '
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>> Does anybody have a good way to cut the oil dip stick door from the
>> top cowl. I saw some that looked very bad at sun-n-fun this year,
>> I want to avoid that.
>> I was also thinking about using Hartwell latches, does anyone have
>> experience with these
>> Craig Hiers
Craig,
I used a thin, fiberglass cut off wheel in the Dremel tool (looks similar
to the Norton cut off wheel that Van's supplies to cut the canopy but is
smaller in diameter and much thinner.) I used the same set up to cut the
canopy, as well.
To cut the curved corners, I used a very small diameter cutting tool that
came with the Dremel kit. I used a Hartwell latch on my oil door and it has
worked great. I believe I bought the latch from K.C. Airparts (the outfit
that has a lady standing in a roll of aluminum) for a much cheaper price
than Spruce or Wicks.
I also reinforced the oil door with a couple of foam hat sections with a
couple of layups over them using epoxy resin. If you don't reinforce the
door, the heat will have a tendency to warp the polyester oil door. I've
not had any warpping problem in 365 hours of operation.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
What is the Hartwell latch....?
Ron Vandervort
rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: QuietFlite Intercom? |
Mitch,
I have the Quiet Flight intercom in my 4. I think its probably one of the
best pieces of equipment in my airplane. My wife and I also have an input set
up for the camcorder and record formation flights and such in stereo (no
airplane noise, just music and conversation). We use david clark 13.4
headsets and couldnt be happier. If you have an old set of david clarks or
some other type you want to use, the people at Quiet Flight will modify them
to stereo. The customer support is first class ! I helped convince another RV
builder yesterday at Oshkosh. I draged him over to their booth and made him
listen. ( he' s a few hundred lighter now ;). I highly recomend them and when
my next project is done I will be buying another it is by far the best I have
herd.
Ryan RV4131RB(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< I messed up the part I cut out of the cowl, so I made the door out of
alum. I just formed it by hand to match the curve of the cowl. I think
it's easier to get a good fit this way.
I used the Hartwell latch and it works great. >>
I didn't mess up the part I cut from the cowl, but many knowledgable compost
builders at the airport convinced me that the polyester/glass door would warp
over time in the hot sun due to the low Tg (glass transition Temperature).
I ended up making it out of aluminum the same as Bud, but I used two spring
loaded Camloc latches (push with finger in 7/8" hole) in lieu of the
Hartwell. Besides the Hartwell latches can whack your finger on a cold
morning if you aren't careful. I also put a small trap door in the bottom of
the cowl for access to the gascolator, using a single Camloc latch, similar
to what Steve Barnard did.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
I would align the inboard trailing edges of the elevators and then drill the
horns. If the thought of one balance sticking out in the breeze bothers you,
it would not be a very large task to remove it and build a replacement just
slightly different.
Did you figure out which one was twisted. The left, right or even the stab?
The airflow behind the prop is rotating so that the left and right side see
different angles of attack. I wonder if it would make sense to make use of
the twist somehow. : )
David Fried
>
>Thanks to all of you that responded to my elevator question. I decided
>to leave it and see how it flies the way it is. All I have to do is
>finish fairing in the front of the canopy before I schedule the FAA
>inspection. I sure thought this little bit of fiberglassing would be
>easier! See Ya..
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> | --- |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting! |
> +-- --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | elevator horns misaligned |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Fellow Listers,
I can't tell you how disappointed/worried I was when I saw that my
elevator horns were not perfectly lined up. The trailing edges seemed
aligned with the HS, but did it mean that I had done something wrong?
I am glad to hear that it is a common problem/observation. I will worry
about something else and wait to see how the thing flies.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolting on the wings... |
>I'm no expert on matters of this sort, but I have a concern about this
>procedure. If it wasn't necessary to hold the heads of the close tolerance
bolts
>when torquing the nuts, then it seems to me that the nuts were torqued against
>the resistance to the shafts inside the spar holes rather than against the
>heads of the respective bolts. It seems to me that this is almost the
>equivalent of not installing the nuts at all since there was little or no
>assured compression of the spar strips. Is there the possibility that after
>thousands of flexings of the wings and vibrations of the engine that the spar
>stips will "settle in" to their original pattern drilled by Phlogiston and
>especially with the silicon lubricant present be able to loosen?
>
Bill,
Valid concern. What I left out of my original post is that the bolts were
torqued to max. allowable torque. I also plan on retorquing them after the
first few hours.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV (Final assembly)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>> Does anybody have a good way to cut the oil dip stick door from the
>> top cowl. I saw some that looked very bad at sun-n-fun this year,
>> I want to avoid that.
>> I was also thinking about using Hartwell latches, does anyone have
>> experience with these
A local fellow cut his door, formed a alumn. door and used a piano hinge in
the same way the cowl is fastnened. It has been on there for about three
years, and you can hardly find it, it is so nice and tight. The release
wire is in the inlet. I tried using it and was surprised how easy it
worked, opening and closing...I haven't gotten to that stage yet, but I do
think I will copy that idea...A very clean installation.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QuietFlite Intercom? |
<<
Bruce, How do you modify old DCs to be stereo??
>>
I sent them to the quiteflite people along with $65 each and they did the
modification. The installed higher quality speakers and rewired them. I
don't know if they still do this as stereo headsets are commonly available
these days.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< Did you figure out which one was twisted. The left, right or even the
stab?
The airflow behind the prop is rotating so that the left and right side see
different angles of attack. I wonder if it would make sense to make use of
the twist somehow. >>
It may surprise you, but some aircraft designers (Dan Denney's Kitfox is one
example) actually raise one elevator relative to the other in order to
maintain positive pressure on the combined elevator surfaces. Supposedly
this reduces the deadband at the neutral position, particularly if the
surfaces are not true airfoils. If you do this, I believe some consideration
should be given to which side is higher (the right side for right turning
props) so that the twisting force is applied opposite the torque rolling
direction.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Speed Modifications - Zoooom |
I just returned from Oshkosh. What a terrifiic show. It was good to put
names with faces from the list. Next year we will have to wear some form of
freely of their time to speak with me. Hopefully, I will be able to do the
same some day.
Prior to the show there was a thread regarding what modifications are
being done to RV's to increase speed. As part of my mission to Oshkosh, I
wanted to seek these individuals out and find out what changes they had made.
The following is hopefully the start of some good discussion and exchanges.
I have excluded from my summary any reference to engine and prop
configurations. I categorized my observations into four groups. Most of the
people I talked with did multiple items at one time and did not switch from
stock to the modified configeration. Therefore, the only yardstick to measure
by is the end result which appears to be a faster RV. Hopefully others will
add to this list. Since I am building a four, I concentrated my observations
on the four. There may well be other mods on RV6's that I missed. (Please
speak up) My background is mechanical and not aeronautical so I will not
attempt to justify or analyze the changes in flow or drag characteristics. I
did not find one airplane that had accomplished all of the items listed
below. It is quite apparent that with some thought, work, and money, one can
make an RV go faster or opererate more efficiently. Whether it is worth the
effort or money I will let to the reader. I believe it is one fine aircrfaft
in the stock configuration. Some of my observations were from RVs from the
RV-list. If you recognize your machine or modification, please supplement
this posting.
Categories:
1. No brainer - easy to do, inexpensive and logical
2. Easy to do, just throw money at it.
3. Can be done, costs money, need to have a good idea of what you are doing
or your going to break something.
4. Lots of head scratching, minimal cost
Category 1
Weight - It seems to be a common demoninator and makes sense. Lighter flies
faster. Less weight requires less lift which translates into less drag.
This seemed to be accomplished by minimizing equipment and interior
finishing, using light weight starters, alternators, minimal radios,
installing lightening holes where possible, applying minimal primer and
paint.
Build it straight - enough said
Exhibit good workmanship - without a doubt, the faster machines exhibited
excellant workmanship and paid attention to detail. Such things as clearances
on ailerons and flaps. Everything fit well and blended well from one surface
to another. Lapped skins fit flat, etc.
Mylar coverings over hinge openings to minimize flow disturbances - I saw
several machines with mylar covering the hinge openings. Appears to be
relatively easy to do and inexpensive.
Category 2
Wing tips - there appears to be several aftermarket wing tips. The common
denominator appears to concentrate on vortex shedding at the rear root.
Wing root fillets - several aftermarket products are available the provide
for a smooth transition at the wing root and modify the the trailing edge
transition at the fuselage.
wheel pants on the tail wheel - would appear to reduce drag.
wheel pants - There are after market wheel pants that claim to develop less
drag.
Flush mounted wing tip lights - enough said
Gear leg fairings - Several aftermarket products are available. The shape may
provide for less drag.
Category 3
Rudder and tail wheel wires - Several RV's have ellinimated the external
rudder wires. Some of the tail draggers have been modified to a locked tail
wheel which elliminates the springs and wires.
smaller pitot tubes - saw one RV that used a much smaller pitot tube
diameter.
Turtle deck flaired into canopy - This mod was observed on an RV4. The
gentleman had raised the turtle deck from the tail to the canopy. The
intersection of the canopy occurred just behind the rear seat. I was told by
several people that the older turtle deck P51's were faster than the bubble
version.
Cowling modification - Looked at Steve Barnards and several other people who
have modified the front cowing and internal baffling on the engine
compartment. The results appear to be dramatic. I my opinion, this is one
area where you realy have to know what you are doing to mess around with it.
This is also one area where it appears you can get a significant reduction
in drag.
Skins overlapped from rear to front rather than from front to rear.
I am told that this reduces the drag by one third on the joints.
Adding composide materials to the fuselage side walls between firewall and
rear seat joint.
The machine I observed was on an RV4. The thichness added was about 3/4" at
maximum. It appeared to provider a vey smooth transition from the front of
the cowling to the rear of the aircraft.
flush joints - Ran across several builders who had used splice stips rather
than overlaps on skin joints.
Category 4
Elliminate the external canopy door latch. - One RV4 elliminated the door
latch by making a small lockable door that pushed inward on the metal part of
the canopy. You simply pushed the door in (after unlocking of course) and
used the internal latch mechanism to open the canopy.
Gas tank drains flared - one builder built and installed small fairings
around the gas tank drains
Gas vent lines - protrusions were minimized and flared
Antenna protrusions minimized
Protruding antennas appear to be a no-no. Several builders have
suceesfully moved antennas inboard on wing tips, canopies, and rudder to tips
to minimize drag.
Tom Brown - RV4
fuselage skinning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Prado (Excell Data Corporation)" <v-jerryp(at)microsoft.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Great summary Rob!
I've really enjoyed this thread.
What about vibration level differences? Everyone supporting the
conversions will claim far lower vibration levels than the Lycs...less
airframe fatigue.. less pilot/passenger fatigue. Is it true?
Jerry Prado - 6A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Acker [SMTP:ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 1997 9:17 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Chevy engine
>
>
> My experience comes from tinkering with musclecars, an extended visit
> and
> test flight in the OMABP Vortec V-6 conversion, and 200 hours behind
> Lycoming O-320's. I had an open mind towards auto-engine conversions
> until
> I really started doing my homework. Now I'm biased .
>
> Contrary to many numbers I have seen floating around on the list, in
> reality
> a Chevy V6 conversion costs about the same as a freshly rebuilt O-320,
> and a
> completed installation weighs about 100 lbs more based upon the OMABP.
>
> The block with regular heads is about $2400 (that's new...if you go
> used and
> rebuild subtract half that from the following all-up costs). The
> reduction
> drive is about $2800 last time I checked. Add all the extra
> engineering
> time, changing the cam out, making custom engine mounts, redesigning
> and
> customizing the cooling-induction-exhaust-ignition systems and you
> drive the
> price and time until air is under wings upward considerably.
>
> Figure more like $8-9K minimum, at which point Jess Meyers firewall
> forward
> install for around $11K makes sense.
>
> The completed OMABP Vortec RV-6 (and this is a *stripped* airplane,
> with
> basic instrumentation and no gyros) weighs 1150+ lbs. Its heavy - and
> I
> felt it in climb, cruise, and handling performance. If you put
> lightweight
> engine goodies on the Vortec to lighten it up, you drive the price up
> yet again.
>
> The original test pilot on the OMABP loved the plane until he got a
> 1020
> pound 150hp Lyc fixed pitch RV-6. Guess what he flys rings around
> with it?
>
> So...you can do a conversion for about $8-10K, buy a conversion for
> about
> $11K, or buy a fresh overhaul O-320 for $11K. Both cost about the
> same up
> front, but the Lycosaur gets you in the air much quicker and the
> airframe
> performs better.
>
> The only economic advantage I see to conversions is rebuild costs.
> Lets say
> one flys 200 hrs per year, with a 1000 TBO and $2K rebuild that's
> about a
> $400 yearly overhaul fund. The Lycoming would be a 2000 TBO and $7K
> overhaul, equating to a $700 yearly overhaul fund.
>
> Is $300 dollars a year worth the auto-engine conversion "advantage",
> the
> same all-up cost, 2-3 times the installation time, and a heavier less
> nimble
> airplane?
>
> My answer was NO and I wound up with a 2800tt, 1100smoh 160hp O-320
> disassembled, inspected, and reassembled for $6K total.
>
> But, I do hope the pioneers pave the way towards good conversions
> and/or a
> new generation of aircraft engines. My guess is Lycoming and
> Continental
> won't be around when overhaul time comes.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
> http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
> "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
> subject. |
> | ---
> |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
> |
> +--
> --+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
>What about vibration level differences? Everyone supporting the
>conversions will claim far lower vibration levels than the Lycs...less
>airframe fatigue.. less pilot/passenger fatigue. Is it true?
>Jerry Prado - 6A
My experience in flying the Chevy:
1) Starting - just like any modern auto engine, push the button and go.
Lycomings have given me fits.
2) The engine itself *seemed* smoother.
3) The belt drive at times negated advantages to #2, dependent on RPM. At
t/o & climb power the resonance throught the airframe was very disconcerting
- I kept imagining the belt coming through the cowl. And, it had a
constantly present "whine".
4) Power reduced to 50% it became *very* smooth and quiet in cruise.
I think (well, I hope since I am going this route) that a dynamically
balanced Lycoming/prop combo will be smooth enough. The experiences of a
few listers here seem to indicate such.
Regarding engine vibration airframe fatigue, I myself would worry far more
about the loading-unloading induced variety (but I'm not an engineer...just
guessing).
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
I just updated my web page with new pictures of my RV-8 wing (right)
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>I didn't mess up the part I cut from the cowl, but many knowledgable compost
>builders at the airport convinced me that the polyester/glass door would warp
>over time in the hot sun due to the low Tg (glass transition Temperature).
>
>I ended up making it out of aluminum the same as Bud, but I used two spring
>loaded Camloc latches (push with finger in 7/8" hole) in lieu of the
>Hartwell. Besides the Hartwell latches can whack your finger on a cold
>morning if you aren't careful. I also put a small trap door in the bottom of
>the cowl for access to the gascolator, using a single Camloc latch, similar
>to what Steve Barnard did.
>
>-GV
Dear GV,
I had been wondering about Gascolator access. Is the usual option just to
drill a big hole in the cowling? The door sounds nice but I can just tell it
will suck up another weekend.
Did you consider mounting the gascolator in the wing root? I have seen this
suggested but haven't heard from anyone who has made it work. The plus being
isolation from heat soaking. The minus being (I assume) a big hole in the
fairing to pressurize the wing root and leak air into the cabin
Leo
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Janicki" <SJANICKI(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Tips, Internet Sources for Information on Riveting |
--=_ORCL_12825857_0_11919708041649110
Hello, I am looking for a good Internet or other resource for riveting. In particular,
tips, techniques, etc. Thank You.
Regards,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
-- Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933
--=_ORCL_12825857_0_11919708041649110
name="anonymous-attachment-1";
charset="US-ASCII"
filename="anonymous-attachment-1"
Hello, I am looking for a good Internet
or other resource for riveting. In particular, tips, techniques, etc.
Thank You.
Regards,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
--
Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933
--=_ORCL_12825857_0_11919708041649110--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernesto Sanchez <40106(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
I noticed that someone earlier said
> the OMABP engine is a 60-degree version, which I hadn't heard
> before. That's good because it'll be a lot smoother, but bad
> because aftermarket parts will be harder to find.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
OMABP's Chev V-6 (4.3L)is a 90 degree engine (Chev small block missing
two holes) not the 60 degree Chev v-6 (2.8-3.1L) motor.
Add $7000.00 more for alum v-6 ver.
Or get a Buick-Rover V-8 all alum motor (with a larger crank = 4.3+L)
that weighs about 100lbs less than the stock v-6. Cheaper too.
The RV-6 to Auto motor engineering has been done on these two combo's.
Search the WEB for info on "Contact" a newsletter devoted
to aircraft-auto conversion. Good stuff.
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
| From: | gasobek(at)juno.com (Gary A. Sobek) |
writes:
>
>
>Great summary Rob!
>
>I've really enjoyed this thread.
>What about vibration level differences? Everyone supporting the
>conversions will claim far lower vibration levels than the Lycs...less
>airframe fatigue.. less pilot/passenger fatigue. Is it true?
>
-------------------- snip --------------------
Jerry:
I have a 1992 Chevy S-10 with a 4.3L (75,000 miles and I am original
owner). It has more vibration than my O-320 swinging a Constant Speed
prop. My Lycoming always starts in 3 blades. Those Bendix S-4 magnetos
are hard to beat. Then I did overhaul and time them myself. The 4.3L
has given problems with ignition. Distributor cap and rotor has Aluminum
contacts that corrode. This also makes it idle poorly when this starts
to happen. If the corrosion is left go too long, it will short out the
electrodes on the Bosch Platinum spark plugs. It vibrates and misses a
lot when this happens. I just replaced the distributor cap with an
aftermarket that uses brass and hope to eliminate this problem. The only
reason that I have the S-10 is that it was cheap. I get the GM employee
discount. IMHO the 4.3L is an OK truck engine.
So far my Lycoming is Smoooooooth. Then again I rebuilt it to NEW specs
and matched all the reciprocating parts. Maybe if I had built the Chevy
engine, I would like it more. By the way, the Lycoming came attached to
a Tri-Pacer fuselage and only cost $2,600 delivered. (1993 price) I
traded fuselage, instruments, etc. for engine parts. I only disassembled
the engine so that it could be NEW spec in the -6. The inspection of the
engine makes me believe that it would have run 300 to 400 hours more with
no problem. 1,742 SCMOH and 3300 SN.
My opinion and observation only. Talk is cheap. Look for facts and
evaluate them as to how they fit your situation.
Gary A. Sobek
AeroSPACE System Engineer
FAA A&P
RV-6 N157GS 20480
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
It is with great regret that I offer my RV-4 for sale. My next project is at
the expensive stage and I need to sell this fine aircraft. Please respond
privatly.
Tom Martin
fairlea(at)execulink.com
519-631-1369
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plastic strip for tip-up seal |
| From: | Paul and Janet Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
Do any RV-listers know of a source of .020" x 2" plastic or UHMW tape? I
am interested in sealing the front skin of the tip-up canopy to the top
front fuselage skin. This would cover the 1/8" gap and help with
waterproofing as well. It seems a similar or somewhat larger size would
also be good for tail gap seal.
Thanks for any input....
Paul Lein
6A IO 360 - Canopy almost done (the first thing I haven't enjoyed so far
-- working in a 90F shop to avoid plexiglas cracks ). My wife and friends
are glad I'm done with the 'glas!
_____________________________________
* The Leins *
* 1555 South Brinton Road *
* Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628 *
* (517) 644-2451 *
_____________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
On mine, I had reskinned the left elevator to near perfection (ha), that
is when I noticed the right one was twisted. The twist looks to be more
towards the outboard end, with the end being twisted up in relation to
the rest of the surface. This causes the tip to be pointed downward
when the elevator is in a neutral position. I was worried it may cause
problems when i get around to the flutter testing. It might just
flutter right on down to the ground. Thank goodness for insurance! By
the way, is there any good way to jump from a -4 if it becomes
necessary, or should i just throw the parachute canopy out and hope it
pulls me out, too? I wonder if my head would get in the tail's way if I
just tossed my body away from the plane as it was spiraling toward the
ground without a tail, or wings, or a canopy? (Of course the test
flying will probably be boring and uneventful)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ShelbyRV6A(at)aol.com |
Well,
Dave Hudgins and I just got back from Oshkosh Saturday and lots of neat
things. Van made his goal of 250 RV by Friday and there may have been more
through the weekend. Seven or eight Harmon Rockets and one of the most
interesting RVs was the RV6+(4 seater). A very nicely executed modification.
I am sure there will be lots of discussion about this plane.
By far the most exciting project was the V-2 of Burt Rutan and Williams. With
engines that weigh less than one of the props on his Boomerang, Burt says
that after being involved with the development/design of thirty odd planes ,
this is by far the most exciting project to date. That plane is awesome and
will have a huge impact on the future of GA.
Another exciting project from NASA is a prop being co-developed by a firm in
Starkeville MS. It is "S" shaped and promises to be quiet and efficient. To
be available later this year, it reportedly is 16 decibels quieter than a
fixed pitch Sensinich.
Thats all for now.
Shelby in Nashville
Still contempating 200HP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
My $.02 on the Chevy debate, based on several years worth of research into
alternative engines for my RV and 20 + years hot rodding cars.
The Chevy is a 90 degree derivative of the small block V8. It uses offset
rod journals (instead of paired rods on a common journal) on its crankshaft
to offset the imbalances inherent in a 90 degree V6.
Aftermarket support is available, but is not found at the common sources
where you find hot rod parts for small block V8's. These engines are
modified for racing applications, but not commonly used on the street so the
market is relatively small. Try smaller publications that deal specifically
with racing applications. Also check with a Chevy dealer. Chevrolet produces
quite a bit of off road use only parts for all of their engines.
The guys doing firewall forward packages suffer from the same problem that
Lyc has. They are trying to recoup their engineering investment by passing
their cost on to a very limited customer base. As these packages get closer
to market the cost grows (along with the weight) and the performance claims
shrink. If you want to use an alternative engine in your airplane with the
goal of saving some bucks you are going to have to do it yourself.
Rob Acker covered the pro's and con's of this particular package
wonderfully. A do it yourselfer could duplicate this package for less than
OMABP is asking (whatever that is now). If you are a tinkerer/experimenter
and you can live with the apparent performance shortcomings as noted by Rob
and others, this could be for you.
There are other V6's, Mazda rotaries, and even small V8's that are available
now that could be the basis of an alternative powered aircraft, that provide
better power to weight than the Chevy V6. One of the often heard gripes
about Lyc is that the design is old/antiquated. Why replace this with a V6
that has its roots in a design that dates from the early 50's? I think an RV
or Harmon Rocket powered by a normally aspirated Lexus V8 would be a pretty
exciting machine. Toyota now has a certified version of this engine in turbo
form. Of course for this to be cost effective you would have to do it all
yourself.
Anyone seriously contemplating any alternative engine needs to talk to lots
of people who have been there before. Preferably people who are not trying
to make a buck off of there setup. You need to read Contact! magazine. You
need to take anything you read in the mainstream such as Kitplanes with a
grain of salt. Anything written by Richard Finch should be given the same
consideration as anything written by Paul Lamar (I hate to name names and
point fingers but both of these guys trouble me; I suspect that reality lies
somewhere between these two extremes).
Im glad that there are guys out there willing to take the risk to attempt to
develop some of these alternatives. There are a lot more of these out there
than you would be led to believe by the mainstream aviation press. Sooner or
later there will be viable proven (though not necessarily cheap)
alternatives to Lycoming power. Of course it will be 50+ years before anyone
has a track record comparable to Lyc (but then Lyc will have a 100+ year
history at that point, wont they). Just my opinion.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
Bud Newhall wrote:
>
>
>
> Why would anyone want to put dive brakes on an RV?
> If you build an airplane to compensat for every possible stupid thing
> that can happen you'll end up with a tank that won't fly worth a shit.
> --In my note, the primary purpose of 'Dive brakes' or spoilers is for ease in
the pattern and landing, not
anything else. Gliders are slippery and are quick to gain speed and spoilers are
the most effective way
to control the glide path to landing. Having spoilers on RV's, or Mooney's, Malibus,
etc., allows higher
descent to pattern speeds, higher pattern speeds, and makes for pin-point landings.
This doesn't mean one
can't land on a dime without spoilers, it simply increases the control one has,
especially in adverse
situations.
If you want to know how they work, go to your local glider port and take a flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 for sale |
It is with great regret that I offer my RV-4 for sale. My next project is at
the expensive stage and I need to sell this fine aircraft. Please respond
privatly.
As an unbiased owner of a flying '6A, having seen this airplane at a couple of
fly-ins in Ontario
and at Sun'n fun, I'd just like to comment to the list that this is one really
EXCELLENT example
of an RV4. If I was in the market to buy one, I'd certainly give this a look.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare Shield |
> RE: RV-6 Glare Shield.
>
> The instructions state that the amount of overhang on the instrument
> panel glare shield (canopy forward skin) will vary to suit the builder's
> taste. Any suggested tastes?
>
It is a personal decision, but you might want to consider some things in
making that decision.
1. Are you going to do night flying? The glare shield should be large
enough to prevent glare from the instrument and radio lights from
obstructing the pilots view. This is the primary purpose of the
glareshield.
2. Do you have instruments (LCD displays) that may be sensitive to sun at
various angles? If so, the glare shield should prevent the sun from
striking the instruments at these angles if possible.
3. What looks nice/ what do you want.
4. The glareshield shouldn't be large enough to cause a head strike threat
during a crash condition. Even if it isn't pad it.
Some food for thought.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
RV6 by Oct. or bust.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bolting on the wings... |
<< What I left out of my original post is that the bolts were
torqued to max. allowable torque. >>
Scott,
I might have missed something here but I seemed to remember that you are
spraying on some lubricant to aid the assembly. Lubricated threads will
allow higher stresses in the bolt at lower torques. Be sure and use the
"lubricated values" for the torque.
Gene, cafgef(at)aol.com
Flying in june of 96 and still holding that date
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
> By the way, is there any good way to jump from a -4 if it
> becomes necessary, or should i just throw the parachute canopy out
> and hope it pulls me out, too? I wonder if my head would get in
> the tail's way if I just tossed my body away from the plane as it
> was spiraling toward the ground without a tail, or wings, or a canopy?
Well, against that possibility I think you should mount several pounds of
Dynamite in the tail cone to make sure that it's not there when it's time to
bail out.
If you have enough engine power and maneuverability, you could do a Hammerhead
stall and kick yourself free at the moment the plane reaches a standstill. Of
course, if you have enough power and maneuverability to do this, you don't
need to bail out.
Or, you can just build as carefully as you can, and if you decide to conduct
flutter testing, you should make several flights, increasing your top speed a
small amount at a time and inspecting carefully after each flight, rather than
pressing on until the stick is ripped from your hands. ("Yup, that's
Flutter.")
All of this is said, of course, with a big grin on my face, and my tongue
firmly in my cheek. :-)
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic strip for tip-up seal |
Paul and Janet Lein wrote:
>
>
> Do any RV-listers know of a source of .020" x 2" plastic or UHMW tape? I
> am interested in sealing the front skin of the tip-up canopy to the top
> front fuselage skin. This would cover the 1/8" gap and help with
> waterproofing as well. It seems a similar or somewhat larger size would
> also be good for tail gap seal.
> Thanks for any input....
> Paul Lein
> 6A IO 360 - Canopy almost done (the first thing I haven't enjoyed so far
> -- working in a 90F shop to avoid plexiglas cracks ). My wife and friends
> are glad I'm done with the 'glas!
>
> _____________________________________
> * The Leins *
> * 1555 South Brinton Road *
> * Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628 *
> * (517) 644-2451 *
> _____________________________________
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +-- --+
Paul,
Try US Plastics. I bought a 3" wide roll of 20 mil. UHMW from them. You
can buy almost any width. If you can't find their number, let me know. I
have a catalog at home.
Ed Cole
RV6A--almost donw with second wing!!!
emcole(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic strip for tip-up seal |
>Do any RV-listers know of a source of .020" x 2" plastic or UHMW tape? I
>Paul Lein
Paul,
United states Plastics, 1-800-537-9724, has UHMW in widths from 1/4" to
5". Maximum width available is 17". All rolls are 54 feet long. It is
.010 of an inch thick. The 2" wide x 54' UHMW is about $26/roll. I bought
the 5" wide for $62. I used this material for the leading edges of the
flaps and also put a strip under the top wing skin where the flap rubs. I
also use it on the inside of the fiberglass gear leg intersection fairings
(top and bottom) to keep fom rubbing paint off on the gear leg fairings. I
think this stuff would work well for eleminating chafing on the aft fuselage
from the canopy on the RV-4s, as well.
Their catalog has a lot of other neat stuff in it. I learned about this
company from Warren Bishop, a RV-6 builder in my EAA chapter.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Another Oshkosh Report |
I might as well add to the reports about Oshkosh. After attending every
year for the last several, and fighting my way through the crowds, I've
begun to assume that ALL pilots must certainly be in attendance!
Lots of stories could be told, but only information regarding RVs is
pertinent to this list.
On Saturday evening, there was a gathering of RVers where Ken Scott
handed out stickers to all who flew RVs in. Van had a piece of paper
stuffed in his hatband with the number "285" printed on it, representing
the most accurate count of RVs in attendance. Not bad. And I looked
over each and every one of them!
Although I got bumped from a ride in the RV-8 not once, but twice, it
was a pleasure to see it, along with a couple of dozen other RVs, flying
in formation over Oshkosh. They sounded good, too. Having spent a few
hours flying wing, I felt the formations were second to none. We all
oooh and aaah over the T-28s, T-34s and T-6s flying formation, but our
RV representatives did even better!
I asked Tom Poberezny where he planned to put 250 RVs, and he said
they'd figure it out if and when the time came. Maybe I'll have to
e-mail him again and ask him where they plan to park 500 RVs next year!
There indeed seemed to be LOTS of eating, drinking and smoking all
around the showplanes, especially in the RV area, since it wasn't within
the fenced area this year. I didn't see any kids climbing on wings,
people climbing into cockpits unbidden or cameras banging into
fuselages, but I'm sure it occurred. I hope the EAA gives a serious
look at their changes in policy for future years.
One note on the edge of commercialism: I suppose there are lots of
builders who are in the process of making construction tapes to sell. I
appreciate the work of those who know what they're talking about. I
need all the help I can get! One guy at Oshkosh has a tape series on
the finer points of construction, and his RV-6A showed it. If this
interests you, e-mail me and I'll give you his name. (I don't get a
kickback!)
Hope I didn't take up too much bandwidth (whatever that is) with this
synopsis. I hope it helps those of you who couldn't make it this year.
--Don McNamara
RV-8
mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
tedd writes:
>
> I searched for a while using AltaVista, but came up with nothing.
> If you have an URL, could you post it? This sounds like an
> interesting source of information.
>
I'm replying to my own post! For those interested in auto engine
conversions, I found an URL that advertises the Contact newsletter.
It's not Contact itself, but at least it tells you how to get
Contact.
http://www.us-aviator.com/usamall/contact/index.htm
---------------------------- snip ------------------------------------
Contact! magazine is the only periodical which specializes in:
Auto Engine Conversions
Airplane Design and Construction
---------------------------- snip ------------------------------------
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Ernesto Sanchez writes:
>
> Search the WEB for info on "Contact" a newsletter devoted
> to aircraft-auto conversion. Good stuff.
>
Ernesto:
I searched for a while using AltaVista, but came up with nothing.
If you have an URL, could you post it? This sounds like an
interesting source of information.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
>
>My $.02 on the Chevy debate, based on several years worth of research into
>alternative engines for my RV and 20 + years hot rodding cars.
>
>The Chevy is a 90 degree derivative of the small block V8. It uses offset
>rod journals (instead of paired rods on a common journal) on its crankshaft
>to offset the imbalances inherent in a 90 degree V6
Mike, thanks for the kind words on my postings.
I think the OMABP uses the Vortec 2.8L 60 degree block, but back in my
musclecar days I was a Ford man so what do I know....?
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | S-TEC System 20/30 autopilot installation in RV6(A) QB |
Just a quick note to the list on my efforts to install the new S-TEC System
20/30 autopilot capstan motor in the RV6AQuickbuild.
First the quality and support have be great from S-TEC.
If you order one, make sure and talk to Joe Moore at S-TEC. The original
installation work for the RV6
(using a Sytem 50/60, I think .... 20/30 and 50/60 all use the same capstan
motor setup for roll)
was done on a flying plane and that plane seemingly had shifted the
gusset/cross member connecting the ribs near where the aileron bellcrank is
mounted aft about .5-1.0" I guess. I suspect this because the original
mounting brackets did NOT work without binding on my QUickbuild, but fit
GREAT on my friend's RV6 that is being built the conventional way. And he
had shifted the cross-member back so as not to interfere with the access
hole.
Working with S-TEC, we got the dimensions so that they work out fine with
the QB or with a plane built EXACTLY according to plans. But I am not sure
if the ones that are being shipped have the new dimension brackets as this
was finished a few days ago ... just before OSHKOSH. I also do not know if
they plan to keep both size brackets around but I suspect that they will be
willing to supply the one that works for your plane.
I am on the road and doing this from memory so I cannot supply part
numbers. I just felt that I should pass this on to the list while it was
fresh in my mind.
I have no affiliation (other than a customer) with S-TEC.
James
RV6AQ
Finishing ailerons and flaps one of these days if I can stay home a few
days
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>>> Does anybody have a good way to cut the oil dip stick door from the
>>> top cowl. I saw some that looked very bad at sun-n-fun this year,
>>> I want to avoid that.
I erroneously reported using a Norton cutoff wheel. I thought that was
what I used, but after taking a look at it today I realize I actually
used a "Tuff Grind" wheel. It's the same diameter, but a lot thinner.
They are available at RC hobby shops. Sorry 'bout that.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic strip for tip-up seal |
<< Do any RV-listers know of a source of .020" x 2" plastic or UHMW tape? I
am interested in sealing the front skin of the tip-up canopy to the top
front fuselage skin. >>
Try United Plastics. They're listed in the Yeller Pages located at
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Access |
<< Did you consider mounting the gascolator in the wing root? I have seen
this
suggested but haven't heard from anyone who has made it work. The plus being
isolation from heat soaking. The minus being (I assume) a big hole in the
fairing to pressurize the wing root and leak air into the cabin >>
Leo-
I am one of those guys that believes in gascolators, as no other filter I am
aware of isolates so much water without obstructing the fuel flow. I didn't
want to put the g/c in the wing root because of the plumbing/access
difficulty and I have a float type carburetor on the O-360 engine which seems
to tolerate vapor locking tendencies better than a throttle body would.
I elected to duct cooling air to it and we'll see how that works. I have
fuel flow and fuel pressure gauges to monitor things.
If I were instead feeding a throttle body or a fuel injected system I would
definitely plumb the return lines to their respective tanks and use the valve
Neico provides with the Lancair 4 that has the simultaneous feed/return port
selector feature built in.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Mike,
Thanks for the offer, but I currently don't plan on getting
down your way. I am interested in any alternative engine
installation, even if it didn't work out as planned. We can
all learn for other attemps.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on second RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare Shield |
>> RE: RV-6 Glare Shield.
>> The instructions state that the amount of overhang on the instrument
>> panel glare shield (canopy forward skin) will vary to suit the builder's
>> taste. Any suggested tastes?
>1. Are you going to do night flying? The glare shield should be large
>enough to prevent glare from the instrument and radio lights from
>obstructing the pilots view. This is the primary purpose of the
>glareshield.
>2. Do you have instruments (LCD displays) that may be sensitive to sun at
>various angles? If so, the glare shield should prevent the sun from
>striking the instruments at these angles if possible.
>4. The glareshield shouldn't be large enough to cause a head strike threat
>during a crash condition. Even if it isn't pad it.
>Dan Morris
>Morristec(at)icdc.com
I thought maybe there would be more input from flying RVers so didn't
reply to original question. Hopefully, others who are flying will pipe up
here but I'll throw in my opinion.
I don't think you could *safely* make the glare shield deep enough to keep
the glare of the radios off of the canopy at night. Also, in my
installation, the LCD displays are much easier to read in direct sunlight
than gas plasma or LEDs which tend to wash out. Once again, the glare
shield would have to go aft a long, long way to shield the displays from
sunlight.
My glare shield sticks out a couple of inches from the panel.
Maybe builders in progress could experiment with cardboard glare shields
and spot lights but I think you'll find that the glare shield is a glare
shield in name only, not function.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
> Contact! magazine is the only periodical which specializes in:
> Auto Engine Conversions
> Airplane Design and Construction
IF...you actually get the copies you paid good subscription money for. I
didn't.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Thanks for the info on flutter testing. I got a kick out of it, too!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Access |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolting on the wings... |
A
>Scott,
>I might have missed something here but I seemed to remember that you are
>spraying on some lubricant to aid the assembly. Lubricated threads will
>allow higher stresses in the bolt at lower torques. Be sure and use the
>"lubricated values" for the torque.
>
>Gene, cafgef(at)aol.com
>
Gene,
If you read the entire original post, I indicated that if you are concerned
about dry vs wet torque, to clean the threads after the bolts are installed.
The lubricant isn't for the nuts, but to aid in installing the bolts. The
close tolerance bolts are a real pain in the @$$ to install. If you get
everything in your favor, they go in without much of a problem.
Where do you find a reference for wet torque? I can't find it in AC 41-13.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
>
>> Contact! magazine is the only periodical which specializes in:
>> Auto Engine Conversions
>> Airplane Design and Construction
>
>IF...you actually get the copies you paid good subscription money for. I
>didn't.
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
Rob,
I can understand your frustration but you have to understand that
"Contact!" is a very small publication by Mick Myal and that an occasional
subscription problem can occur. I am a charter subscriber and have never
missed an issue. I also have spoken with Mick on several occasions and know
that if he were made aware of your problems with your subscription he would
make it right with you. Mick has a very large undertaking in publishing
this mag/newsletter and I'm sure would appreciate any help he can get as
far as letting him know if their is a problem. He doesn't have a large
staff so let's be fair here. He is trying to supply something to the
aviation community that no one else is doing. When you post a message such
as yours you are telling 800 (?) people that this is not a reputable
magazine. I beg to differ with that assessment and I believe John Top would
back me up on that. He had the same mix up as you did and I put him in
touch with Mick and I believe he is a happy camper now. If you look in the
archives under "Contact!" I believe you will find Mick's phone number there
and if not E-Mail me privately and I will get it for you. I have no
interest in this publication other than being a regular subscriber but I
would hate to see it go away due to rumor and inuendo! with all due respect
Rob I think your post was below your normally high standards
which I have come to appreciate on this
list. Respectfully, Al RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Access |
<< I'd very much appreciate any info you have on this selector....do you know
where I can see it or
read about it? >>
Ken-
My buddy Theo Mulder showed me this item and it comes stock with the Lancair
4. Check out the rich builders in your area and I'm sure someone's building
a 4.
I don't know the manufacturer, but I'll see if I can get more info this
weekend.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | IO-360 engine for sale |
Hello, RV'ers-
Just in case there might be a builder out there somewhere looking for a
muscle engine for an RV, I have a 200hp Lycoming that is fresh overhauled by
Premier Engines in Troutdale, Oregon and assembled by a retired A&P-IA.
It has new oil pump gears ($400), new rings, valves, guides and a couple of
new pistons, as well as new cam followers and camshaft. The crankshaft was
overhauled (internally cleaned and dimensionally checked) and has a new
timing gear (scalloped) and a new fuel pump. Any parts not new are certified
as airworthy. All parts yellow tagged. I am asking $19,100 and am willing
to take a runout core from an O-320 or O-360 engine as part mayment.
You can email me at my JHeadric(at)aol.com. Located in the Portland area.
Jim Headrick
________________________________________________________________________________
My -6 is almost complete - just need to paint it. I could use some
advice.
First, I've had the fiberglass parts long enough so that the resin has
shrunk and the weave is visible. This is most apparent on the wing
tips. What is a good primer or filler to make the fiberglass smooth?
Second, my painting location is such that a HVLP system would be the
best to use. I'll be using three colors, bright blue, yellow and some
red trim. What's a good paint?
I will appreciate all comments, antidotes, and advice. Thanks.
Dick Steffens RV-6 N54X
resteffe(at)dpcmail.dukepower.com
North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
More-or-less on the same thread, and with some fear of being
flame-bait...
Anyone know of an aircraft conversion of an Olds Aurora 4.0 V8?
This engine puts out 250 hp @ 5600 RPM so, in theory, it should
be able to put out 160 hp @ 3600 RPM (and live a long time).
It's about as technologically current as you can get and,
though I haven't been able to find any specs, it ought to be
pretty light for a car engine. It's already all-aluminum (or
non-ferrous, anyway). I believe it has the same bellhousing
bolt pattern as a GM small-block, so it could probably mate
successfully with existing reduction drive units.
I suppose re-camming it for aircraft use would be expensive
(there's four of 'em).
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Tedd,
I dont think they have a web page. Mick Myal is overloaded just getting the
magazine out. For a subscription try:
Contact! magazine
2900 E. Weymouth
Tucson, Az. 85716-1249
I dont have a phone number. I think the subscription is $20 per year but I
am not sure about that and dont have a copy handy to check. If you need more
info let me know and I will see if I can get it for you.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>I searched for a while using AltaVista, but came up with nothing.
>If you have an URL, could you post it? This sounds like an
>interesting source of information.
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Rob,
Ive seen the OMABP RV-6A at several fly-ins, and Jess Meyers wrote an article
describing it in detail for Contact! earlier this year. Unless they have
made a dramatic config change, the engine is the 4.3 liter Vortec 90 degree
V6. There is also a local builder in my EAA chapter using this engine and
Jess Meyer's PSRU in his Velocity. The Chevy 2.8 liter 60 degree V6 is a
fairly anemic engine that was used in some S10's and the Pontiac Fiero.
Unless heavily modified I doubt that this engine could successfully power an RV.
Ive heard of several others having problems with their Contact!
subscriptions. Mick Myal has his hands full with this. Everyone that I have
ever heard of who had a subscription problem, had it easily resolved once
they talked to Mick. For anyone with a serious interest in alternative power
I would call it a "must have". Mick also has a book called Alternative
Engines which is a compilation of articles from past issues of Contact!
Another "must have". If you wanted to talk to Mick in person and check this
stuff out before buying, I'm sure he will be at Copperstate this year as he
lives a stones throw away in Tucson.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>I think the OMABP uses the Vortec 2.8L 60 degree block, but back in my
>musclecar days I was a Ford man so what do I know....?
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us |
My 1989 RV-3A reluctantly is for sale. I have a new Lycoming enroute
for my project and $$ begin to factor into decision-making. I've put
this off for quite a while, but the Trade-A-Plane ad will be mailed
tonight.
1989 RV-3A. Wing tanks, late-model wing. Lycoming 0320. Less than
600TT airframe, SMOH engine. Com, TX/enc, databased Loran, vert card
compass, EI Ultimate Engine Analyzer (programmable EGT/CHT all
cylinder analyzer). NDH. Always hangared. New ignition harness; some
extras. Good solid RV. Go look, then come buy. This one isn't old,
tired iron.
Price fixed fairly (and rather firm - don't mind listening, but
I'm neither desparate nor destitute). I might consider keeping
the EI, com or TX/enc or even taking trade of KX155/KI209 nav/com,
S-Tec Series 40 or 20 autopilot, or panel-mounted GPS/Com with map.
If interested, answer privately. < colquitt(at)tusc.net >.
It's been to OSH and Sun 'n Fun several times. I'd fly it just about
anywhere. This one should go to a good home.
Joe Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
>When you post a message such
>as yours you are telling 800 (?) people that this is not a reputable
>magazine. I beg to differ with that assessment... with all due respect
>Rob I think your post was below your normally high standards
Al,
Thanks so much for all the information on the inner workings of the magazine.
I just rechecked my post. It contained none of the above false
elaborations, it simply and truthfully stated my own singular experience,
and it did not blame the magazine, the post office, or you for not receiving
any issues.
But to answer your obvious concern, set the record straight, and keep this
post RV related: The pre-subscription service from the magazine was
outstanding, as was the content and usefulness of each issue I actually
received. I did not pursue the missing issues because I had already decided
the auto-conversion route was not for me.
I'm keeping my high standards rating .
Regards,
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another Oshkosh Report |
>Date: Wed, 06 Aug 1997 09:00:00
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Oshkosh Report
>
>Back from OSH. Took the Cub, RV goes next year.
>
>Observations: WHAT an RV turnout. It was feared there would not be the
250 wished for. HA! Beat that by some margin. And those were only the RVs
registered. There are always some folks that don't register their aircraft.
MANY examples of how to build an RV.
>
>Formation flights: WOW!! What a great job! I don't believe in my 8 years
of OSH there has been such a large formation of experimental aircraft flown.
And TIGHT? Put the warbirds to shame. Very impressive from both technique
and type of aircraft. Even had a spotter flying above the formation. The
crowd was also impressed.
>
>I work the antique/classic division parking. (Many of you at OSH saw me as
I flagged your aircraft...and there were LOTS of you). I was able to see
both the airplanes and crowd from a differert prespective. The crowd was
messier (?) than in years past: more (any) garbage on the flightline. Some
of that was because there is now food SOLD on the flightline, for crying out
loud. There were many people who obviously had not a clue about being
around aircraft. Trying to park aircraft with people around is always a
challange, this year it was somewhat worse. (What is that spinning silver
thing on the front of that airplane for?) Moving the crowd to return an
airplane to its parking place after a fly-by always brings some grumbles,
more so this year (Move? Do I get my money back?) Keeping them from
touching aircraft is always part of our job (Sir, is this your airplane?
Well, then don't touch it please.) My prop had been moved twice. We had
people climbing in some aircraft (Sir, this is not a Disneyland ride...)
>
>The seemingly endless food tents were more numerous. Made it look more
like a carnival.
>
>We had pilots who were originally parked on the flight line asking to be
moved ANYWERE BUT the flightline, some with show aircraft. They were
happily parked down near point Fond Du Lac to get away from the crowds (WAY
south).
>
>Pushing the dates up one day will go on for several more years until they
find it's a bad or good idea. REALLY affected the aircraft and people
numbers on Sunday (aircraft down 40% over Saturday). Flightline passes will
be debated but this system nets more income so will probably stay.
>
>A good convention, all in all. A few near misses (Bonanza landing on the
taxiway) but no major messes.
>
>More RVs next year. I'm sure RV orders shot up after this display of
aircraft and flying.
>
>Keep building: yours will be there soon.
>
>Michael
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting Straight Assemblies |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
When I first started building my RV-3, I was fortunate enough to have
some experienced advise.
If you want to build in a twist, start riveting from one end and rivet to
the other end.
If you want to build a straight surface, install a rivet at each end and
one in the middle. Then continue to install additional rivets in the
middle of the remaining open area.
I had a oil-can in the lower fuselage skin where the skin attached to the
lower longeron (shouldn't happen in the kit parts, but who had kits back
then.). The skin cleared the longeron by about 2 inches at the rear
baggage compartment bulkhead. I installed a cleco at each bulkhead, then
in the middle between each bulkhead, and then at each mid-point. By the
time half the holes were filled with cleco's, there was no evidence of
the oil-can left.
The basic idea is to capture any distortion.
Jim Ayers
Maroon Marauder (Back from Oshkosh) 287 (or 288) RV's as of the Sunday
Banquet.
Less_Drag(at)juno.con
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Moving RV assemblies |
| From: | schmidtjm(at)juno.com (James M Schmidt) |
I have been transferred long distance and need to safely move my RV-6
wings and emmpanage from Florida to Wisconsin. Does any one have any
drawings or ideas for wing crates. Any other ideas concerning safe
shipping via moving van lines.
Will they insure if I crate or must I trust there crating?
schmidtjm(at)juno.com
or jim.schmidt(at)mei.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
> My -6 is almost complete - just need to paint it. I could use some
> advice.
> First, I've had the fiberglass parts long enough so that the resin has
> shrunk and the weave is visible. This is most apparent on the wing
> tips. What is a good primer or filler to make the fiberglass smooth?
> Second, my painting location is such that a HVLP system would be the
> best to use. I'll be using three colors, bright blue, yellow and some
> red trim. What's a good paint?
> Dick Steffens RV-6 N54X
Dick,
I'm not sure the polyester resin ever stops shrinking. I preped my six
and painted the interior. I had some polyurethane (PPG Durethane) left
over, so painted my top cowl after it was preped (sanded & cleaned) and
primed. It turned out just fair and the guy that painted my plane thought
it should be shot again. I wet sanded the polyurethane and the painter went
back on with a smoother coat of Durethane. For awhile, there was no weave
showing through. Now, after 2 1/2 years the weave does show through. The
empanage fairing that I made out of epoxy along with the upper gear leg to
fuselage fairing made of epoxy show no weave. From what I've gathered,
layups made with epoxy are more resistant to shrinkage.
We used PPG products and I'm satisfied with the results. The painter also
used a Croix turbine. The plane was painted in 90-95 degree weather and,
even using the warmest weather reducer possible, there was a bit of orange
peel. I might try painting my next RV and, if I do, I'll: buy another 20'
of hose and coil it in a 55 gal. drum to cool the warm turbine air and I'll
paint at a cooler temperature and probably use a warmer weather reducer than
is called for and may thin just a bit more than recommended.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< First, I've had the fiberglass parts long enough so that the resin has
shrunk and the weave is visible. This is most apparent on the wing
tips. What is a good primer or filler to make the fiberglass smooth? >>
Richard-
When I built two Kitfoxes I used a material called Featherfill from ACS and
it filled this variation in surface topography rather well. Despite its name
it's actually pretty heavy (contains talc as a filler) so don't use too heavy
a coat. Just enough that you can sand it smooth after coating. Weave
texture is not very deep.
I then lightly primed with Dupont Corlar and top coated.
Your paint question will illicit a large volley of opinions so I'll just side
step it except to say use a Brand Name all the way thru.
-GV
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I have 2 questions.
1. Is there any way to keep voltage out of the cockpit until you turn
on the master?
I thought I wouldn't have that problem since I have a switch that
grounds the terminal on the master that pulls in the master. I didn't
think about the 12 volts feeding through the coil of the master back to
the switch in the cockpit. I couldn't think of any way around this. Is
there??
2. I can't remember this question, but I though of another one. The
brake lines have been sitting there several months slowly dripping while
I was waiting for time to change the fittings. Some sections of the
plastic line are very sticky. I have regular red aviation fluid in it.
Do these lines have something coating the outside that is breaking down,
or does the fluid just get real sticky like that?
Thanks. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving RV assemblies |
James M Schmidt wrote:
>
> I have been transferred long distance and need to safely move my RV-6
> wings and emmpanage from Florida to Wisconsin. Does any one have any
> drawings or ideas for wing crates. Any other ideas concerning safe
> shipping via moving van lines.
>
> Will they insure if I crate or must I trust there crating?
>
> schmidtjm(at)juno.com
> or jim.schmidt(at)mei.com
Jim,
Maybe try to find someone with that has a -6 quickbuild kit that just
arrived or that will in your area and use thier wing crates and boxes.
Greg,
RV-8 80081
rv8er(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tvelvick(at)caljet.com> |
Will anyone who has been to the annual Van's homecoming recommend a place
to stay while you are there? Since I didn't get to see the 288 RV's at
Oshkosh, this sounds like the place to be next.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
RV-6a Wings supposed to be crated next week for shipment.
Phoenix, AZ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
Some sections of the
>plastic line are very sticky. I have regular red aviation fluid in it.
>Do these lines have something coating the outside that is breaking down,
>or does the fluid just get real sticky like that?
Michael;
That must be just the fluid. Mine percolated a little fluid out of the
master onto the firewall. It got very sticky there, and I don't think that
the stainless was breaking down.:-)
As to the master voltage, I will not touch it, wiring blows my mind.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
> red trim. What's a good paint?
Dick; I know this is like advice as to what kind of woman to marry, but I
had very good luck with Du Pont Centari.--with painting, not marrying!
For paint, reasonably priced, readily available (Car supply stores), not all
that difficult to apply (relatively speaking of course), nice finish, looks
good, easily touched up if needed, etc.
Worked for me. For painting, not marriage.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
> I will appreciate all comments, antidotes, and advice. Thanks.
>
> Dick Steffens RV-6 N54X
> resteffe(at)dpcmail.dukepower.com
> North Carolina
There is no antidote to RV fever
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Fellow Listers:
Hat in hand I confess to an error. In a previous post I identified the
Belted Air Project as a 60 degree V6 engine and provided some General
Motors part numbers for aluminum blocks and heads.
I was wrong. The Belted Air project engine is a 4.3 liter V6. This is
the block created at the end of the 1970's by General Motors by lopping
off two cylinders from their venerable small block V8 engine. Although
it is a V6, the cylinders are splayed at a 90 degree angle (the same as
in a V8).
An aluminum block is available from your local General Motors dealer.
Ask for part number 14011069. It has 4 inch diameter cylinder liners
and uses standard V-8 pistons or after market pistons. At least three
different aluminum heads are available from General Motors: part numbers
14011056 (for the stock cast iron block more or less) and 14044802 (for
blocks with a 4 inch bore such as the aluminum block). A very nice
aluminum head for high horsepower applications is available from Pontiac
Motorsports: part number 10045449. It takes its own intake manifold
because of its higher intake runner design.
At least three different crankshaft designs are available for this
engine. The first design used common connecting rod journals and the
engine ran with an uneven firing sequence due to the design of the
engine block (derived from the V8). Later designs featured offset rod
pins in the 1980-84 engines that produced a firing sequence of 132/108
degrees between successive cylinders and an even fire crankshaft
installed in 1985 engines that produced a true 'even fire' sequence of
120 degrees of crankshaft rotation between cylinder firings. That
crankshaft was replaced in 1986 and later engines with a similar crank
that allowed the use of a one-piece rear main bearing seal. These
offset crankshafts have to be seen to be appreciated. Each engine uses
its own specially counterweighted flywheel in automotive applications to
ensure proper engine balance.
General Motors has a performance parts catalog with these and other
mouth watering treats displayed for purchase. Head down to you local
dealer and pick one up today.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
(Waiting for the fuselage kit to arrive, wondering where to store the
wings and hoping that someone with brains and engineering smarts will
figure out how to make the V6 work in the RV-6A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Solana" <solanas(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | FAA accepted call sign |
I read somewhere that there was an FAA-accepted call sign for RVs, other than
the standard "EXPERIMENTAL". In other words, in a Cessna 172 with tail number
1234, you can call in as "CESSNA 1234" or "SKYHAWK 1234". I thought it might
by "RV", but it might have been "VAN'S". ("RV 1234" sounds a lot better than
"EXPERIMENTAL 1234". Does anyone know what it is?
Thanks,
Rick Solana
RV-6a, 804RS
drilling the canopy, no cracks yet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
If you don't even want a "remote control" (like for a TV) with a battery
in the cockpit, then the only solution is a mechanical one: A knob and
bowden cable or push/pull rod going out through the firewall to a
masterswitch located on the other side of the firewall.
But the interesting question is: What problem are you trying to solve?
If "no sparks" is the goal, then a 1uF capacitor over the switch you
have in the cockpit should do the trick.
Finn
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
>
> 1. Is there any way to keep voltage out of the cockpit until you turn
> on the master?
> I thought I wouldn't have that problem since I have a switch that
> grounds the terminal on the master that pulls in the master. I didn't
> think about the 12 volts feeding through the coil of the master back to
> the switch in the cockpit. I couldn't think of any way around this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< 1. Is there any way to keep voltage out of the cockpit until you turn
on the master?
I thought I wouldn't have that problem since I have a switch that
grounds the terminal on the master that pulls in the master. I didn't
think about the 12 volts feeding through the coil of the master back to
the switch in the cockpit. I couldn't think of any way around this. Is
there? >>
Mike-
I'm not sure that I understand your concern and I don't know where you are
placing your battery. If the battery is in the cockpit it is a moot point as
the master contactor should be adjacent.
If the battery is somewhere else, the master contactor should be as close to
it as possible. Running the enable line to the switch is easy.
Let me know if I can help as I've done about half a dozen schematics from
Kitfoxes to Glasairs and am unafraid of those pesky little electrons.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
>
>I have 2 questions.
>1. Is there any way to keep voltage out of the cockpit until you turn
>on the master?
> I thought I wouldn't have that problem since I have a switch that
>grounds the terminal on the master that pulls in the master. I didn't
>think about the 12 volts feeding through the coil of the master back to
>the switch in the cockpit. I couldn't think of any way around this. Is
>there??
I'm not sure why you are concerned about this.
>2. I can't remember this question, but I though of another one. The
>brake lines have been sitting there several months slowly dripping while
>I was waiting for time to change the fittings. Some sections of the
>plastic line are very sticky. I have regular red aviation fluid in it.
>Do these lines have something coating the outside that is breaking down,
>or does the fluid just get real sticky like that?
> Thanks. Michael
>
>
The red stuff gets very sticky if it leaks. Removes easily with a rag and
mineral spirits.
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
>
>Rob,
> Ive seen the OMABP RV-6A at several fly-ins, and Jess Meyers wrote an article
>describing it in detail for Contact! earlier this year. Unless they have
>made a dramatic config change, the engine is the 4.3 liter Vortec 90 degree
>V6.
I stand corrected on my correction. I searched dejanews after I sent my
message, and sure enough there is a reference by Bill Phillips that its a
4.3 liter Vortec.
I apologize for error.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
Rick,
>I read somewhere that there was an FAA-accepted call sign for RVs, >other than
the standard "EXPERIMENTAL". In other words, in a Cessna >172 with tail number
1234, you can call in as "CESSNA 1234" or "SKYHAWK >1234". I thought it might
by "RV", but it might have been "VAN'S". >("RV 1234" sounds a lot better
than "EXPERIMENTAL 1234". Does anyone >know what it is?
It's "RV6." For example, upon INITIAL contact with a CONTROL TOWER, you
say, "RV6 triple three juliet alpha experimental." For other
communications, you omit the "experimental." "RV6" applies to both the
-6 and -6A.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
("RV 1234" sounds a lot better than
>"EXPERIMENTAL 1234". Does anyone know what it is?
I haven't heard that the "RV" is excepted yet. I did read sometime back
that "Glassair" was excepted... I kind of got my number with that in mind,
"RV-6-4-1-DH"
Makes since to better identificationof the more popular experimentals and
you certainly can get anymore popular then "RV's".
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving RV assemblies |
>
>I have been transferred long distance and need to safely move my RV-6
>wings and emmpanage from Florida to Wisconsin.
James, it is not that big a deal to move wings. I did it twice. Once from
the Twincity (MN) area to St. Luis, MO area. I just rented a rental truck
with lots of padding blankets. Transported the wings standing on the
leading edge, tied to the side of the truck. Used blankets between and
under the wings (folded, about six under each wing). Taped the blankets
with duck tape, so they stayed in place. The second time I had the moving
company do job (from St. Luis to DEnver). They used soft, plastic wrapping
and than a couple of layers of padded paper. I was there when the did the
packing and had them added corner and leading edge protection. I was not
there when they lloaded the van, but again supervised the
unloading/unwrapping (to check for possible damage).
No damage both moves. When you have a professional moving company do the
moving, write on the order scheet that you are moving FRAGIL AP wings. This
gets everybody's attention.
Good luck with your move!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving RV assemblies |
ote:
>
>>
>>I have been transferred long distance and need to safely move my RV-6
>>wings and emmpanage from Florida to Wisconsin.
>
>James, it is not that big a deal to move wings. I did it twice. Once from
>the Twincity (MN) area to St. Luis, MO area. I just rented a rental truck
>with lots of padding blankets.
Although our wings did not go on great travels across states we successfully
moved our wings sandwiched between a couple of single bed mattresses. One
matyress on the trailor floor, then one wing, then another mattress on top
of this, then the next wing, then blankets over the top of this with ropes
holding everything down and with cushions between the sides of the trailor
and the leading edge and rear of the wing. No damage and no movement.
L.Coats RV6 ZK-RVL 199.4 due for 200hr checks
L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 196.2hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>snipped<<
>Do these lines have something coating the outside that is breaking down,
>or does the fluid just get real sticky like that?
> Thanks. Michael
Mil-H-5606 just gets sticky like that. It picks up dust out of the air
and the red color will turn more orange as it ages. INSIDE
the system it should stay red, unless something is wearing or
burning to contaminate it.
D. Anderson
RV-4(wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Janicki" <SJANICKI(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
--=_ORCL_44463354_0_11919708071357510
Where is this information to be found?
Regards,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
-- Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933
--=_ORCL_44463354_0_11919708071357510
Date: 07 Aug 97 01:14:27
From:"John B. Abell "
Subject:Re: RV-List: FAA accepted call sign
Rick,
>I read somewhere that there was an FAA-accepted call sign for RVs, >other than
the
standard "EXPERIMENTAL". In other words, in a Cessna >172 with tail number 1234,
you can
call in as "CESSNA 1234" or "SKYHAWK >1234". I thought it might by "RV", but it
might have
been "VAN'S". >("RV 1234" sounds a lot better than "EXPERIMENTAL 1234". Does
anyone
>know what it is?
It's "RV6." For example, upon INITIAL contact with a CONTROL TOWER, you
say, "RV6 triple three juliet alpha experimental." For other
communications, you omit the "experimental." "RV6" applies to both the
-6 and -6A.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
--=_ORCL_44463354_0_11919708071357510
name="anonymous-attachment-1";
charset="us-ascii"
filename="anonymous-attachment-1"
Where is this information to be found?
Regards,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
--
Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933
--=_ORCL_44463354_0_11919708071357510--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernesto Sanchez <40106(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chevy engine |
Tedd McHenry wrote:
> > Search the WEB for info on "Contact" a newsletter devoted
> > to aircraft-auto conversion. Good stuff.
> >
> Ernesto:
>
> I searched for a while using AltaVista, but came up with nothing.
> If you have an URL, could you post it? This sounds like an
> interesting source of information.
Contact!
2900 East Weymouth
Tucson, AZ, 85716-1249 (20.00 for six issues)
Also, they produced a book (back issues of Contact articals) full of
engine conversions and good tips. Excellent info! I have always
received my issues with no problems. Mr Myal quickly responds to all
letters and request for information. There is nothing like learning
from others mistakes or accomplishments. I highly recommend these two
sources of information. I found this source looking at the E-Racer
(v-8 powered) web page.
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
Ernesto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
ix.netcom.com!jbabell(at)matronics.com wrote:
> It's "RV6." For example, upon INITIAL contact with a CONTROL TOWER,
> you
> say, "RV6 triple three juliet alpha experimental." For other
> communications, you omit the "experimental." "RV6" applies to both
> the
> -6 and -6A.
>
> Jack Abell
> RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
Ahhh... I see you've been practising :-)
Actually, I believe that to be completely correct you'd have to say
"three three three" instead of "triple three".
OTOH, there's an aircraft here in NZ whose registration is "SSS" (we
only have 3-letter registrations, no numbers) which is commonly referred
to as "Sierra three".
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Janicki" <SJANICKI(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
--=_ORCL_12918076_0_11919708071429040
Where is this information to be found?
Regards,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
-- Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933
--=_ORCL_12918076_0_11919708071429040
Date: 07 Aug 97 01:14:27
From:"John B. Abell
"
Subject:Re: RV-List: FAA accepted call sign
Rick,
>I read somewhere that there was an FAA-accepted call sign for RVs, >other than
the
standard "EXPERIMENTAL". In other words, in a Cessna >172 with tail number 1234,
you can
call in as "CESSNA 1234" or "SKYHAWK >1234". I thought it might by "RV", but it
might have
been "VAN'S". >("RV 1234" sounds a lot better than "EXPERIMENTAL 1234". Does
anyone
>know what it is?
It's "RV6." For example, upon INITIAL contact with a CONTROL TOWER, you
say, "RV6 triple three juliet alpha experimental." For other
communications, you omit the "experimental." "RV6" applies to both the
-6 and -6A.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
--=_ORCL_12918076_0_11919708071429040
name="anonymous-attachment-1";
charset="US-ASCII"
filename="anonymous-attachment-1"
Where is this information to be found?
Regards,
Steve
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
--
Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933
--=_ORCL_12918076_0_11919708071429040--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Rick,
ATC accepts "RV6" in the flight plan, and recognizes the same for in
flight
communications.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
On Thu, 7 Aug 97 11:30:40 UT "Richard Solana"
writes:
>
>I read somewhere that there was an FAA-accepted call sign for RVs,
>other than
>the standard "EXPERIMENTAL". In other words, in a Cessna 172 with
>tail number
>1234, you can call in as "CESSNA 1234" or "SKYHAWK 1234". I thought
>it might
>by "RV", but it might have been "VAN'S". ("RV 1234" sounds a lot
>better than
>"EXPERIMENTAL 1234". Does anyone know what it is?
>
>Thanks,
>Rick Solana
>RV-6a, 804RS
>drilling the canopy, no cracks yet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
>
>Actually, I believe that to be completely correct you'd have to say
>"three three three" instead of "triple three".
>
Correct, I use fly a flight out of ORD that was 555 occasionally. Everyone
always said "Tiger Triple Nickel", both ATC & the pilots. But one night the
supervisor must have been observing our controller cause he came down on the
us in no uncertain terms. So I guess it is who is watching whether you can
be cool....what the heck :^)
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)nike.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: RV-List: Moving RV assemblies
Message not delivered to recipients below. Press F1 for help with VNM
error codes.
VNM3048: John Haaland@GlobalAdmin@CIT
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>
>I have been transferred long distance and need to safely move my RV-6
>wings and emmpanage from Florida to Wisconsin.
James, it is not that big a deal to move wings. I did it twice. Once from
the Twincity (MN) area to St. Luis, MO area. I just rented a rental truck
with lots of padding blankets. Transported the wings standing on the
leading edge, tied to the side of the truck. Used blankets between and
under the wings (folded, about six under each wing). Taped the blankets
with duck tape, so they stayed in place. The second time I had the moving
company do job (from St. Luis to DEnver). They used soft, plastic wrapping
and than a couple of layers of padded paper. I was there when the did the
packing and had them added corner and leading edge protection. I was not
there when they lloaded the van, but again supervised the
unloading/unwrapping (to check for possible damage).
No damage both moves. When you have a professional moving company do the
moving, write on the order scheet that you are moving FRAGIL AP wings. This
gets everybody's attention.
Good luck with your move!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <gasobek(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | GM Performance Parts Catalog free download. |
July 25, 1997 - August 07, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-de