RV-Archive.digest.vol-df
August 07, 1997 - August 19, 1997
Chevy lovers:
The GM performance parts Catalog is on the www. Download your free GM
Performance Parts Catalog from the WWW. Try it at
http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmpp/r3200.htm Hope I got it right.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | Moving RV assemblies |
Hi Jim,
I am an analyst for a very large relocation company, who shall remain
nameless. I just wanted to bring up one point to look out for. If you are
moving anytime soon just remember that all van lines are booked past
capacity since everyone wants to move during the summer. They readily
contract for additional help and hire anyone that can lift heavy objects. By
Sept. most of these people will not be employed by the van lines so damaging
your leading edge is not going to affect their career.
I would suggest you pack it yourself and closely supervise the loading
process. Also I would put several bright orange signs on the packed
assemblies broadcasting what it is, and that it is fragile. The trick is, to
lend the impression that you are monitoring the treatment of your goods.
Also mention your concern and the value of the wings to the driver, he is
the contractor and partial damages will come out of his pocket. More than
likely he will bend over backwards to get them there undamaged. An ounce of
prevention.......you know.
Eric Henson
Wing Tanks
These are my personal opinions and do not reflect the ideas or intent of my
employer.
>>>From: James M Schmidt
>>Will they insure if I crate or must I trust there crating?
schmidtjm(at)juno.com
or jim.schmidt(at)mei.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
>Actually, I believe that to be completely correct you'd have to say
>"three three three" instead of "triple three".
>
>OTOH, there's an aircraft here in NZ whose registration is "SSS" (we
>only have 3-letter registrations, no numbers) which is commonly referred
>to as "Sierra three".
And I used to fly a Cessna 172 out of HHR whose N-number ended in 555.
Everyone called in as 'triple nickel'
Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
engine arrives next week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jlock(at)centuryinter.net |
| Subject: | vision microsystems |
Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision microsystems
for their engine monitoring insturments. I visited their booth at the big show
and was impressed with what it does. However, the RVers I hang with don't like
the idea of putting all their eggs in one basket.
jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I have two nasa type vents and the only good place I can see to install
them would be right below the canopy skirt on the fuselage side. Is
this a bad place because of low pressure? I was going to mount them in
the canopy skirt but it wouldn't be flat enough. Thanks. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | LP Aero Plastics at OSH, acrylic canopy tips |
WHAT A OSH! Congrats to Van's A/C and all those beautiful home built planes.
And did we find good tips or what!? Got energized again!!! Just loved the
fellow's passenger warning went like: "Passenger Warning...Bla....Bla..
Amateur built...Bla..Bla..not to .Federal Standards......" Well he added
something to it, like. "But also remember the Titanic was built by
professionals while the Ark was home built by amateurs".
While at OSH, I visited extensively with a helpful fellow from LP Aero
Plastics. I gleamed many tid bits from the "professionals"?. He said they
break their share of windows too. $20K windscreen in a Citation you know,
quoted while trying to cheer me up.
If you have a fax viewer software, and you can handle a *.awd file extension,
you e'mail me off the list requesting a copy of the LP Aero fax I logged in
to my PC. It is 6 pages of decent stuff to read about. You can view and
print out the pages your self later too. If not capable, included is a
partial condensed summary below.
So here goes:
Practice on scraps first he said. Practice, practice, practice.
Did you know you should not store the wind screen with plastic protector
covering and expose it to sunlight. They might become permanently fused. Be
advised, it has ruined many, so watch light coming through windows into
building areas. Setting out in sun to warm can ruin it too. Also re:acrylic
ambient heat does open up the window for "workability" although it is slight,
much less important than one might think.
Don't use wood or any other bits but zero rake plexi bits. Drill with a SLOW
electric, light hand drill. Press very lightly. When drilling it really will
be scraping off slowly. No biting or big spiral curls desired, for then
you're pushing to hard. Also your not trying to melt through. No backward
rotations either.
Holes generally are to be oversized, 1.3 times the fastener, for vibration
and different thermal expansion rates between alum and plexi.
No pop rivets are to be used. They suggest c/s washers, lock nuts and bolts,
or gook sealing it in. Tighten screws while reflecting a high intensity
light across the surface, watch into surface near screw for distortion as it
tightens up. Distort then back off slightly. A tight enough screw, may turn
in final assembly with a screw driver, go around with little effort. But with
a lock nut, will stay put.
Break all sharp edges. Use 150 grit sand paper.
Do not start with a hole any bigger than 1/4" diameter, smaller would be
better. Step up in drilling sequence/sizes.
Do countersink all screws. Plus use countersunk finishing washers too. (I
saw lots at OSH following this all around their canopies, leaving pops out).
Watch mounting surfaces for and bumps and sharpness which will cause stress
risers, under plexi.
Do not flame edges, not recommended. Rather progress with sand paper from
150, 220, 400, 600 and power buff is what they do he told me. Their edges on
display pieces sure looked polished up like a flamed job too,
water-dark-clear. So it appears with lots of elbow grease this too can be
had the hard way, sanding. Power sanders, belt or disc OK to use for this
too, support your piece. Didn't really get what he had in mind for the power
buffing stuff though.
Oh yeah I almost forgot, drill in a competely free state, off or unfastened
from the plane. No stresses while drilling.
Respectfully,
David McManmon, RV6 Cicero NY. (N# request and check in mail to OK, thanks
to FAA folks providing immediate search while at OSH).
PS: Now with 2nd canopy ordered. Boo hoo hoo...... but given the above, I
see about 4 to 5 things I was doing wrong!!!, and I thought only 1 thing I
did was wrong, albiet many builders advised of many infractions to above,
with out bad luck though. Van's A/C and Airplane Plastic, Ohio (their
manufacturer) treating me right too. And I'm quite sure they'd tell you all
this stuff too. At OSH Van's booth was crowded each of the 4-5 times I went
there. (His seminars had overflowing tents too). But have talked to both on
phone recently, they care.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore"<dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
Subject: RV-List: Wiring
The following question was received:
1. Is there any way to keep voltage out of the cockpit until you turn
on the master?
I thought I wouldn't have that problem since I have a switch that
grounds the terminal on the master that pulls in the master. I didn't
think about the 12 volts feeding through the coil of the master back to
the switch in the cockpit. I couldn't think of any way around this. Is
there??
You have it configured correctly. I know of no practical way to keep
voltage out of the cockpit. Since that is where the battery is, it will
have hot leads to the master, the master switch, and to a clock (if you
have one installed). I also don't see a problem with it. Make sure your
connections are good and don't worry about it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
At 11:30 8/7/97 UT, you wrote:
>
>I read somewhere that there was an FAA-accepted call sign for RVs, other than
>the standard "EXPERIMENTAL". In other words, in a Cessna 172 with tail number
I haven't seen anything officially recognizing the RVs as a distinct type
for purposes of communication with ATC. Glassair used to be listed, even
though there were fewer of them than a number of other types at the time.
There is currently a note, that makes sense to me, that indicates that
specific types are not listed for experimental aircraft because:
"Configuration diversity and the fact that airworthiness certificates are
issued to aircraft builders, vice manufacturers, necessitates the assignment
of generic aircraft type designators based on cruise performance, rather
than specific manufacturer and normal descriptive/performance information."
You can call your aircraft anything you like when communicating with ATC,
just remember to comply with FAR Part 91.319(d)(3) when checking on with a
tower. Regardless of what you decide to call it on the air, you must tell
the notify the tower that it is experimental. This applies to any of the
experimentals, not just amateur-built.
There is no particular advantage to using the type with the call sign in
place of the 'november' except that it helps to sort out who the call was
for if two aircraft have remotely similar call signs. Using 'experimental'
serves the same purpose unless more than one aircraft was an experimental,
but then, both could well be RVs, since the RV is the most common type of
experimental. Sometimes using the type helps to wake up the pilot who might
not be paying attention, but this primarily applies to Bonanza and Mooney
drivers.
Just to show how little help the name might be, there are four approved type
names for the PA28 and three for the C172.
The computer will accept just about anything short enough to fit when you
file a flight plan, but only 'HXB' is actually correct for any of the RVs.
If you file anything else, some poor controller who has actually taken a few
minutes to read the book (that'd be me) will have to make the correction
later.
In short, call your aircraft whatever you want but keep it simple and be
sure to tell a tower it is experimental. Use your FULL call sign on EACH
transmission unless ATC shortens it, at which time you may also abbreviate
it. If you file flight plans, use HXB as the type for any RV (experimental,
100-200 Kts cruise). If you like, put something like 'RV-6' in remarks to
keep curious controllers from asking what it is when they see your groundspeed.
If you are able to cruise at over 200 Knots, file as HXC and tell us all how
you did it.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kam Yuk CHENG <kamy(at)cyllene.uwa.edu.au> |
| Subject: | pitot tube fitting / |
Dear all,
1. pitot tube fitting (PART NO. AN832 - 4D)
In Van's drawing No. 20 for RV6A, we canot work out which way round the
tube fitting should go. One end of the fitting has 2 lots of threads, the
other end has one lot of thread. Which end should go inside the wing ?
2. Fult tank rib (Pat no. T-403R)
The fuel tank rib comes with some holes already machined. A ring part no.
T-407 sits on one side of the rib. One of the plate nut mounting holes
which goes through the ring to the rib comes through right next to the
machined hole in the tank rib T-403R. This mounting hole has to be
counter-sunk. However, it is so close to the already machined hole that it
will break through to the machined hole. Can anyone suggest what is the
best way to solve this problem ?
Best regards
Kamy Cheng
University of Western Australia - RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
I would just use about a 300 grit wet and dry sandpaper and sand all the
weave of the fiberglass out. I found it doesnt take that long to get the
weave out, and is better looking and lighter than adding and sanding filler.
Regarding paint, several of my fellow builders as well as myself prefer
Centauri by Dupont in acrylic enamel. One thing most builders are not aware
of is that if you are not an experienced painter, stay with solid,
non-metallic colors. Metallics are more difficult to apply and require more
experience. I learned this the hard way. Hope this helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I have two nasa type vents and the only good place I can see to install
them would be right below the canopy skirt on the fuselage side. Is
this a bad place because of low pressure? I was going to mount them in
the canopy skirt but it wouldn't be flat enough. Thanks. Michael
>>
You don't say if this is a -4 or -6. Search the archives for -4 instructions,
or email me off the list.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
You wrote:
>
>
>Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision
microsystems
>for their engine monitoring insturments. I visited their booth at the
big show
>and was impressed with what it does. However, the RVers I hang with
don't like
>the idea of putting all their eggs in one basket.
>
>jeff
Jeff, I have the luxury of waiting to see how the reliability of the
device proves out in use, since I won't be at that stage for awhile.
Having said that, I am impressed with the functions you don't get with
standard analog instruments that it provides, such as trend monitoring
and fault warning. When you get right down to it, the plane can still
be flown to a safe landing with all of the engine instruments out of
service. A big consideration is their warranty/service policy if you
get stranded somewhere.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
>If you are able to cruise at over 200 Knots, file as HXC and tell us all how
>you did it.
>
>- Mike
>hartmann(at)sound.net
Mike:
When I first started flying my 4, 3 years ago, I filed as an HXB. Probably 2
years ago the friendly Flight Service guy said we could file as an
RV-whatever as it was now accepted in the system for flight plans.
I've never had a problem with DUATS or flight service filing as an RV-4. I
still call in as an Experimental although I think they should give us a
designator that would be more descriptive. Hey an experimental could be
anything from a Breezy to an BD-10 jet. I would think the tower types would
like to know what is about to enter their airspace so they could have a
better idea on how to sequence traffic.
Rergards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision microsystems
for their engine monitoring insturments. I visited their booth at the big show
and was impressed with what it does. However, the RVers I hang with don't like
the idea of putting all their eggs in one basket.
I think it depends on how good the basket is.
The VM1000 is a very high quality system and having installed several in the AirBeetle,
experienced
no problems.
There are also a class of folk who believe the old mechanical instruments are the
only way...I'm
not one of them. I'm running with a VM style system, my panel is less cluttered
and my scan is
much smaller. I also get a few more "wows" than I probably would have with a whole
bunch of gauges.
The beaty of this system is that the dials are "analog" so you can still glance
and get a sense of
where everything is without having to read numbers.
Yes, it is a central point of failure but if this worries you why are you building
a single engined
'plane? Its also no really big deal to put a standby tach and oil pressure gauge
somewhere until
your confidence in it goes up..then take em out.
If you can afford it (its not cheap) and you like it, then its YOUR basket.
You should also check out the Audio Flight Avionics system...this one is much cheaper
and speaks to
you. Admittedley it doesn't have the sexy display of the VM1000 but I'm sure it
will soon
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen" <clevtool(at)tdsi.net> |
| Subject: | Cleaveland Tool web page update |
Thanks to the help of Mike Hartmann I was able to finish our PDF catalog
and put it on-line for the viewing. The catalog is available in two
versions... a file that is ~1.5meg to download, unzip, and view in Adobe
Acrobat Reader, and the other version is by viewing it directly from your
web browser using the Acrobat plug in. This will give everyone access to
all of the pictures and descriptions in our catalog.
Thanks,
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
1-800-368-1822
clevtool(at)tdsi.net
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot tube fitting / |
>1. pitot tube fitting (PART NO. AN832 - 4D)
>
>In Van's drawing No. 20 for RV6A, we canot work out which way round the
>tube fitting should go. One end of the fitting has 2 lots of threads, the
>other end has one lot of thread. Which end should go inside the wing ?
>
It really doesn't matter. On my RV-6A, the bulkhead fitting was installed
with the nut on the inside (one set of threads on the outside of the wing).
This was only done for cosmetic reasons.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | pitot tube fitting / |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Same with me. The drawing really wasn't much help. I did it the way
Scott suggests after looking at some of the RVs at the RV forum in
Oswego, New York two years ago.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Gesele [SMTP:icsnet.com!scottg(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Friday, August 08, 1997 9:25 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot tube fitting /
>1. pitot tube fitting (PART NO. AN832 - 4D)
>
>In Van's drawing No. 20 for RV6A, we canot work out which way
round the
>tube fitting should go. One end of the fitting has 2 lots of
threads, the
>other end has one lot of thread. Which end should go inside the
wing ?
>
It really doesn't matter. On my RV-6A, the bulkhead fitting was
installed
with the nut on the inside (one set of threads on the outside of
the wing).
This was only done for cosmetic reasons.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV Forum in Fulton Coutny NY |
Does anyone know the dates of the RV Forum at EAA chapter 486 in Oswego,
New York?
I lost the paperwork!
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
Jeff,
After several years of putting up with mechanical engine instruments in my
SIX, I finally decided to bite the bullet and retrofit the Vision
Microsystems EPI-800 system. I would of liked to go with the VMI-1000 system
but that would have required a total panel rework, instead I just replaced
my existing 2 1/4" instruments with the EPI-800 gauges.
The system is light, easy to install and very accurate. In over 400 hours of
operation I have not had a single problem with any part of the system.
At first the initial cost might seem high, but when you look at what you get
for the money it really is a pretty good value. A fuel flow computer alone
can run nearly $1000, as well as a 4 cyl egt/cht scanner. If you are still in
the panel design stages I would go with the 1000 single display system, you
can really save some panel space.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6
N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
Johnson)
>Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision
microsystems
Jeff, I have the luxury of waiting to see how the reliability of the
device proves out in use, since I won't be at that stage for awhile.
>>
I haven't yet decided whether I'll us the Visions System, but reliability is
a major factor in its favor. Visions is a long established company and I've
heard nothing but good things about them.
An aquaintance that flies competion aerobatics in an Extra300 swears by the
system. This is the 3rd airplane he's had it in without any reliability
problems to date. His only problem has been that the microprocessor and
warning system respond so much faster than conventional instruments he got a
lot of momentary warnings during hard acro. I believe Visions worked out a
specific software fix for his situation.
Dan Helm
Rv-4
Post finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BAWH <bawh(at)apci.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CONTACT! Magazine |
Mr. Mojzisik (and the list):
I must agree with you. I'm also a charter subscriber. Though the Air Force
has moved me from Tucson to Illinois, to Korea, and back to Illinois, I've missed
only one issue -- because I didn't renew in time. Mick wrapped the back issue,
had the hastle of customs labels, and sent it to Korea. I'd be very surprised
to find his treatment any different for anyone else.
Andy Hecker
>
>> Contact! magazine is the only periodical which specializes in:
>> Auto Engine Conversions
>> Airplane Design and Construction
>
>IF...you actually get the copies you paid good subscription money for. I
>didn't.
>
>Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
Rob,
I can understand your frustration but you have to understand that
"Contact!" is a very small publication by Mick Myal and that an occasional
subscription problem can occur. I am a charter subscriber and have never
missed an issue.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
>can run nearly $1000, as well as a 4 cyl egt/cht scanner. If you are still in
>the panel design stages I would go with the 1000 single display system, you
>can really save some panel space.
Having previously posted some comparisons of electronic engine monitors, I'm
enjoying following this thread.
I posted some erroneous data concerning the Allegro M816 (not on purpose,
the old literature was in error and since been corrected). It provides the
following functions in one 2.25" instrument with all probes and sensors for
$1795 (they also have a 2.25" tach/MP instrument available):
Scans (with user settable alarmed limits) and displays:
All EGT's
All CHT's
Oil Pressure
Fuel Pressure
Oil Temp
Carb Temp
Volts
Amps
Fuel Totalizer (when hooked to gps also fuel required to next waypoint and
final destination - warns if not enough)
Shock Cooling Mode
Lean-to-Peak Mode
Clock
Outside Air Temp
Alarm is via audio into headset/speaker and flashing display. I bought one
because I felt it offered the best performance/price/panel space ratio and
because it has a lifetime warranty should it fail. We'll see how it works out.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
Steve,
On page 9 of the October 1995 Sport Aviation magazine, there's a brief
article that reads, in part, as follows:
"HOMEBUILT DESIGNATORS"
"When pilots of homebuilt aircraft file flight plans or make pilot
reports (PIREPs), most use the generic designators HXA, HXB, and HXC, as
appropriate. However, many are apparently unaware that designators have
been assigned for specific homebuilt designs. FAA Order 7340.1N
Contractions lists the following:
. . .
Van's RV-6/6A RV6
. . .
Owners and pilots of these aircraft are urged to use the designators.
It makes Search and Rescue easier when searchers know what they are
looking for, and it makes PIREPs more useable.
Our thanks to EAA member (and FAA Enroute Flight Advisory Specialist)
John B. Hyde of Oakland, CA for this information."
I assumed that the use of these designators extended to ATC
communications. I was pleased to see Fred Stucklen verify this.
I also agree that the use of the phrase "triple" anything isn't quite
kosher, so to speak, but when I used to fly a Piper Archer N333DE, it
worked for me and no one ever challenged it. If anyone ever does, my
guess is that the three threes will go back to him/her in a very
sarcastic tone of voice. The point of communications, after all, is to
communicate efficiently and that implies terse transmissions.
The article also lists RV3 and RV4 as designators. (It was written
before the RV-8 was announced.)
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV Forum in Fulton Coutny NY |
>Does anyone know the dates of the RV Forum at EAA chapter 486 in Oswego,
>New York?
>
>Steve Soule
27 September at KFZY Oswego County Airport
for further info call 315-469-3763 or 315-446-6928 so the flyer says......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott M. Kuebler" <keebs(at)buffnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV Forum in Fulton Coutny NY |
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
> Does anyone know the dates of the RV Forum at EAA chapter 486 in Oswego,
> New York?
>
Saturday 27th & Sunday 28th of September. I will be driving in from
Buffalo.
Scott
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
>
> Van's RV-6/6A RV6
>
> . . .
>
> Owners and pilots of these aircraft are urged to use the designators.
> It makes Search and Rescue easier when searchers know what they are
> looking for, and it makes PIREPs more useable.
>
I have found a couple of times when flying into places where RV's are
less known and I use the RV designator ATC has come back with "Army
please say number again"
>
> I also agree that the use of the phrase "triple" anything isn't quite
> kosher, so to speak, but when I used to fly a Piper Archer N333DE, it
> worked for me and no one ever challenged it. If anyone ever does, my
> guess is that the three threes will go back to him/her in a very
> sarcastic tone of voice. The point of communications, after all, is
> to
> communicate efficiently and that implies terse transmissions.
>
Here at Hillsboro there used to be a Cessna that had a number such
as 123MM and he used to always call in as 123 Mickey Mouse. I never
heard anyone get after him for calling in his number that way.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
(aol.com!DkSJC(at)matronics.com)
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
> Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision
> microsystems
Has anyone ever had excess heat cause a problem with their electronic
cockpit displays? I've seen cockpit heat blacken an LCD engine
monitor until the cockpit temperature dropped (about 10 minutes after
the canopy was tipped up).
It's only for this reason that I'm leaning away from using electronic
displays. I believe that gas plasma or LED displays won't have this
problem. The Vision display is all LCD. Would anyone from Florida
using one of these please comment?
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-6a emp & wings 4 sale |
This is from a friend. The empennage is very nice.
*****************************
RV6A Project: Empennage complete, wing kit 20% completed (not pre-punched).
Phlogiston spars, BAC quick-build kit, plans and video. $5,500.
jem(at)crl.nmsu.edu or 505/522-4854.
*****************************
grant in New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | elevator v-blocks |
dear listers,
while setting up the v-block jig for my elevators I cant help but wonder
if all this perfectness in the level and plumb department is necessary with
the pre-punched kit.I can see being reasonably accurate with your set up, but
it seems to me that with the pre-punched parts things havn't much choice but
to fall into place.have the jigs become just a nice place to hold our control
surfaces?I spend alot of time getting these things "just right"I'm beginning
to wonder if I'm doing this for nothing.any opinions/comments would be
greatly appreciated.
chris marion
rv-6 r-elevator
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Forum in Fulton County NY |
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
writes:
Does anyone know the dates of the RV Forum at EAA chapter 486 in
Oswego,
New York
I lost the paperwork!
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Steve,
It goes like this.
3rd annual northeast RV forum
Presented by Chapt. 486
Bill Hodge---Chariman
110 Orchard Ave.
Nedrow, N.Y.
Oswego County Airport, Fulton N.Y. ( FZY )
( informal friday evening cookout )
September 27th, 1997
Free camping for tents, Trailers and Motor homes
( NO HOOKUPS )
Factory rep will be in attendance with the RV-8.
RV rides will be available ( weather permitting )
Forums to include: Sheet metal construction and special tools
Advanced wiring
Painting--glasurit
Engine, new or rebuilt
Propellers, metal or wood
Fitting those fiberglass parts
FAA Experiences, lessons learned
First flight
RV aircraft and flying the RV-8
Manufacturers on site
Van's Aircraft
Sensenich
Lycoming
$35.00 Includes Saturday: Forums, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
Questions?? Call Bill Hodge at 315-469-3763 after six or
Ken Graves at 315-446-6928 after Aug. 1st
HTH Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 H-stab & jig size? |
Hi there,
I just ordered my RV-8 tail kit, and plan to build a work bench in the next
few days. I found the following in the archive:
>The horizontal stabilizer is 95" across when finished (RV4). Make your
>workbench about 93" wide (instead of the convenient 96"!) and you
>will be able to assemble the elevators to the horizontal stab on the
>bench, leaving the counterbalance arms overhanging the ends of the
>bench.
This sounds like a good idea, but I am wondering what the RV-8 horizontal
stab width is?
I also would appreciate a list of wood sizes and length needed to build the
jig. I want to get any extra wood I need now so it can be as dry as
possible when the jig goes together.
I am really itching to get going on this - I hope the tail kit and the big
box of Avery's tools arrive soon.
Thanks for the help,
Kevin Horton
future RV-8 builder (lurking and gathering info, tools, etc)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hamilton McClymont <hammcc(at)istar.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
Rob:
Where can I find out more about the > Allegro M816
Does the maker have a website?
Cheers,
Hammy [CYVR]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Dropping objects |
Listers,
At a reduced power setting and airspeed, can the tip-up canopy on an RV-6A
be opened enough to drop objects during flight? As long as persons or
property on the ground aren't in danger, the FAA allows this. I'm getting
rather close to flying and was hoping that something the size of a new roll
of toilet paper could be dropped. "Others" who have done this in a 152 say
it can be real fun to cut the resulting streamer with the wings :)))
Scott Gesele N506RV (At airport, wings and tail on)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator v-blocks |
chris marion wrote:
>..while setting up the v-block jig for my elevators I cant help but
>wonder if all this perfectness in the level and plumb department is
>necessary with the pre-punched kit...
I really thought about this after watching the Orndorff video, where he
drills the control surfaces and spar first thing, out of the jig. I
don't know how much twist can be introduced *after* the drilling is
done, but given the concern for riveting patterns, I'm not going to take
any chances.
I would guess the jigs took about an hour for me to set up, both rudder
and elevator, which isn't much in the scheme of things. I figured, at
220 mph, I don't want any twist at all, if I can help it. Playing it
safe.
Still wonder if it's necessary though, just like you Chris.
EB #80131 - empennage, wings getting tired of sitting in the boxes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Tool web page update |
>
> Thanks to the help of Mike Hartmann I was able to finish our PDF
> catalog and put it on-line for the viewing. The catalog is available
> in two versions... a file that is ~1.5meg to download, unzip, and view
> in Adobe Acrobat Reader, and the other version is by viewing it
> directly from your web browser using the Acrobat plug in. This will
> give everyone access to all of the pictures and descriptions in
> our catalog.
Not to start a debate, but Acrobat is a really bad to to use for things that
are only meant to be read on a computer. While it's a really nice way of
bundling pictures and postcript for pre-press and such, it's needlessly bulky
and not compatable with all computer systems. If it's a simple conversion of
the files used to print your catalog, that's one thing, but a straight HTML
version with .gifs or .Jpegs is probably a better way to go.
(Who has a .pdf reader for Amiga, eh? :-)
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
I want to thank Bill Benedict, Mike Seger and Van for one of the most
enjoyable flights I've ever had.
On Wednesday afternoon I spoke with Bill about getting a demo ride in one of
the Rv-6's. He said he had an opening on Monday, I told him I would be
leaving on Sunday. He looked again and said how about 10:30 tommorrow. You
bet!!
I showed up early on Thursday morning and at 10:00 Mike Seger showed up and
away we went. We flew over the lake to the east, did a wing over, slow
flight, steep turns, ect. What a ride and what performance, so light on the
stick. I have never flown a stick before but it just seemed natural.
If you ever get a chance to fly a RV aircraft don't turn it down but then I'm
sure if your reading this you never would.
Thanks again to everyone at VANS.
John L. Danielson
Rv-6A Tail done, Wing ordered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "prosales(at)qnet.com" <prosales(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | rv6 builders inphoienix,az?] |
From: "Mark Alonzo Van-Y" <MVANY(at)apsc.com>
Subject: rv6 builders inphoienix,az?
Date: 8 Aug 1997 10:21:31 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: s28dhcp70.apsc.com
hi out there!
any one in the peoria/goodear arizona area building a rv6-give a yell. lots
of questions and need answers.
mvany93777(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dropping objects |
I'm getting
> rather close to flying and was hoping that something the size of a new
roll
> of toilet paper could be dropped. "Others" who have done this in a 152
say
> it can be real fun to cut the resulting streamer with the wings :)))
Until you get it in the Carb and the engine quits,(been there done that,
see my homepage) or in the cooling intake and you burn up a cylinder.... Or
much worse you are looking over your shoulder and pulling around to take
another swat at it and you accelerate a stall with the ball out of center,
now you are upside down closer to the ground than you thought you were.
When you start flying your airplane you can have enough fun with out trying
to chase toilet paper. IMHO
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Since I posted the message about the Allegro M816, I've received quite a few
requests for contact info so am posting it here. If you don't receive a
personal reply please don't be offended, this way's easier .
Allegro Avionics
E-mail: Allegro1(at)dakotacom.net
Web Page: ? - don't know if they have one
Phone: 520-327-3695
Fax: 520-327-0426
Tell 'em Rob A. sent ya!
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA accepted call sign |
<< Our thanks to EAA member (and FAA Enroute Flight Advisory Specialist)
John B. Hyde of Oakland, CA for this information." >>
It is my great pleasure to have Mr. Hyde as my hangar mate (at LVK) and
buddy. He's a great guy and owns/flies a Kitfox 2 w/582 that I built back in
'91. He is also a wealth of arcane aircraft/war information and not only
speaks Chinese but a few other Asian tongues. He flew King Airs for Air
America in 'Nam and Helicopters for the Army. He loves RVs and homebuilts of
every stripe.
Call Flight Watch (122.0 MHz) in the SF Bay Area during weekdays and give him
a PIREP. You can even give it to him in Chinese.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
Jeff asked about Vision Microsystems:
> Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision microsystems
> for their engine monitoring insturments.
Jeff, VM has two instrument packages, one the "everything but the
kitchen sink on one screen" version and the other is a package of 2
1/4 inch (more conventional looking) instruments. My hangar partner
has the latter. A number of people I know have made the same choice
if choosing VM.
But my hangar partner lost his instrumentation once because of
something going wrong that "crashed" most if not all of the VM
instruments until he could get the needed part. Nice plane, couldn't
fly. Some type of sending unit problem.
Personally, I like the EI package. I have an Ultimate Scanner. It
reads all four cylinders' EGT and CHT automatically, and I can add
four more indicators in the same 2 1/4 inch instrument (such as carb
temp and outside air temp). This box scans and reports both EGT and
CHT without a switch. The VM option requires two 4-position switches.
Plenty of people buy VM though. Either way - VM or EI - it's not
cheap, baby. ;-)
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
>
> Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision microsystems
> for their engine monitoring insturments. I visited their booth at the big show
> and was impressed with what it does. However, the RVers I hang with don't like
> the idea of putting all their eggs in one basket.
>
> jeff
What is the chance of the engine monitor and engine failing at the same
time? Not very likely. If you loose your engine monitor you land as
soon as possible with very little risk.
An unsolisited comment, why spend the big bucks on Vision's system when
you can get all the same information with a Grand Rapids system at a lot
less bucks. It doesn't have as fancy of a display but it is very
functional.
Frank Smidler
RV-6, working on finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. Denman" <mikedenman(at)earthlink.net> |
Maybe this issue is already settled but... While I was at Oshkosh this
year I asked the Sigma Tek folks about this eight degree tilted panel
issue that had been talked about on this list and its effect on the
attitude gyro. To summarize his reply;
1. They can sell you a gyro adjusted to any angle you want ie. 1
degree, 2 degrees, 6 degrees, 15 degrees etc.
2. Any qualified instrument shop can also "adjust" these gyros to
whatever tilt you want.
3. It doesn't make any difference to the gyro how it is adjusted, only
to the presentation.
He also mentioned that you shouldn't let a gyro set for long periods of
time because it is bad for the bearings. He defined "long" periods as 6
months or more. Apparently the bearings are sealed but the oil will
collect in the bottom of the bearing housing over time, leaving the
balls in the top of the bearing housing unlubercated at the instant of
start up.
Mike Denman
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude gyro |
> He also mentioned that you shouldn't let a gyro set for long periods
> of time because it is bad for the bearings. He defined "long" periods
> as 6 months or more. Apparently the bearings are sealed but the oil
> will collect in the bottom of the bearing housing over time, leaving
> the balls in the top of the bearing housing unlubercated at the instant
> of start up.
Flip it over every month?
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dropping objects |
>
>Listers,
>
>At a reduced power setting and airspeed, can the tip-up canopy on an RV-6A
>be opened enough to drop objects during flight? As long as persons or
>property on the ground aren't in danger, the FAA allows this. I'm getting
>rather close to flying and was hoping that something the size of a new roll
>of toilet paper could be dropped. "Others" who have done this in a 152 say
>it can be real fun to cut the resulting streamer with the wings :)))
>
>Scott Gesele N506RV (At airport, wings and tail on)
>
>
>hello scott
i suspect that you will discover a better use for the tp if you try opening
your
canopy in flight. :-) !
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> | --- |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting! |
> +-- --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator v-blocks |
Chris,
You implied that the prepunched kits should possibly eliminate the need for
accurate jigs. I disagree.
My empennage was purchased before prepunching was available from Van's (BPP),
but my wing kit was one of the earlier prepunched wings. It is true that the
skins have been punched very precisely, but those skins must be drilled to
framework skeleton members that are not punched - unless I have really missed
something in my wing and fuselage kits. It is the alignment of the holes
drilled in the skins AND the underlying framework that will determine whether
or not the pieces being constructed will be true. You can still get a
severely warped control surface or wing while using prepunched skins if the
drilling is not done while the frame AND skin are straight. This would
dictate to me that a good jig is still very necessary.
Keep on building those straight jigs and you can still have them mounted as
trophies later if you want, but you are also more likely to have a straight
airplane, which is a far more important trophy.
Bob Tinnell
Salem, OR
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ShelbyRV6A(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude gyro |
That was the suggestion of the Sigma-tek rep at Oshkosh(flip it
periodically). Not optimum because the gyros don't actually spin up(which is
the only way the bearings actually get lubricated).
Shelby in Nashville
RV6A 200hp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 H-stab & jig size? |
Kevin wrote:
>
>I also would appreciate a list of wood sizes and length needed to
build the
>jig. I want to get any extra wood I need now so it can be as dry as
>possible when the jig goes together.
>
Kevin, congrats on the tail kit purchase. I don't know if the
instructions have been updated, but you will need the vertical posts
about 113" apart for the wing jig, so I would build the jig for the HS
using that dimension for the crosspiece.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
jlock(at)centuryinter.net wrote:
>
>Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision
>microsystems
>for their engine monitoring insturments. I visited their booth at the big
>show
>and was impressed with what it does. However, the RVers I hang with don't
>like
>the idea of putting all their eggs in one basket.
Jeff:
That is a consideration. A friend with a Lancair *did* suffer a failure of
his VM1000 one day, but he was on the ground. Even so, his airplane was
out of commission for several days.
On the other hand, I'm using the RMI microMOnitor, so I've got the same
exposure.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. Denman" <mikedenman(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude gyro |
Richard Chandler wrote:
>
>
> > He also mentioned that you shouldn't let a gyro set for long periods
> > of time because it is bad for the bearings. He defined "long" periods
> > as 6 months or more. Apparently the bearings are sealed but the oil
> > will collect in the bottom of the bearing housing over time, leaving
> > the balls in the top of the bearing housing unlubercated at the instant
> > of start up.
>
> Flip it over every month?
>
> --
> Richard Chandler
> RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +-- --+
The bearing issue came up when I said I was close to buying a attitude
gyro but that it would be awhile till the plane was flying. The man
from Sigma Tek said if I bought the attitude gyro early then I should be
aware of the potential problem. He suggested hooking it up to a vaccuum
source once a month and letting it "spin up". I'm not sure "flipping it
over" would be effective. The bearings are very precision and probably
very sensitive to this type of problem.
Mike Denman
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Tool web page update |
>Not to start a debate, but Acrobat is a really bad to to use for things that
>are only meant to be read on a computer.
Richard,
I've repetitively seen messages like this one cause people/suppliers going a
very long extra mile to help us builders out, to say farewell with a single
finger salute.
There is an on-line html catalog available. For the 98.6743% of us with
Acrobat capability who don't mind the hardship of unzipping a file, we can
download and print the catalog with MUCH better picture quality and
formatting than html, and save Cleaveland the printing and mailing costs.
If you don't have Acrobat and want the pictures, just call 'em up and order
a catalog.
Cleaveland, my hats off to you for a great addition...keep the Acrobat
format on-line!
There...vented...sorry.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
>An unsolisited comment, why spend the big bucks on Vision's system when
>you can get all the same information with a Grand Rapids system at a lot
>less bucks. It doesn't have as fancy of a display but it is very
>functional.
The Grand Rapids lacks many of the features of the Vision, therefore less
bucks (a few important examples are scanning of all cht's and egt's, lean
mode, shock cool alert, trend learning capability, etc.). It does have all
the basics (and a great price/performance ratio), is cheaper than analog
equivalents, and it has scanning capabilities.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6/6A Fuselage jig for sale |
| From: | tcastella(at)juno.com (Anthony J Castellano) |
I just removed the fuselage from my Stephen Frey steel fuselage jig.
It is for sale for $900 or best offer. I will also
include the firewall and F606 stiffener pieces and any other things I
can think of that I won't need anymore.
I have a wood wing and empenage jig that I will include if the buyer is
interested.
Please respond to,
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (fuselage now out of jig)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott M. Kuebler" <keebs(at)buffnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 H-stab & jig size? |
Kevin & Theresa Horton wrote:
>
> I also would appreciate a list of wood sizes and length needed to build the
> jig. I want to get any extra wood I need now so it can be as dry as
> possible when the jig goes together.
We have two RV-6 kits being built in the same hanger. We bought all the
wood for two jigs (4x4's), one jig was constructed right away (while the
wood was still damp), and the wood for the second jig was left to dry.
The wood for the first jig dryed while it was securely bolted, screwed &
metal straped in place. It dryed very straight
The wood for the second jig dryed while laying on the floor. It is now
severly twisted, and has become scrap.
So, my advice to you is don't buy your wood until you are ready to
assemble the jig, and happy building.
Scott
RV-6 (moving on to the VS)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
Jeff
I have the VM 1000 in my RV6A (now 150 hrs). I like it - it shows you a lot
of info in a glance and saves panel space. (weight saving is debatable) I do
have separate fuel guages and I presently have a separate oil press guage
(meant to be temporary because of another problem) The system uses a lot of
sensors but they are relatively easy to install and all readings are very
accurate. The unit is set up for your engine at the factory - so it has all
the paramaters built in for you engine. The fuel flow transducer must be
installed exactly as per instructions! There are lots of nice features. I
would not spring for the annunciator lights - I have them and they are
redundant and require an immense amount of wiring - wish I had never seen
them now. With separate fuel guages I can't think of anything that would be
critial to flight if the system went belly up in flight. Display is easy to
read in all lighting conditions. Good luck on your project
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Does anyone know a good spot for some nasa type vents on an rv-4? I was
thinking of putting them righ below the canopy skirt on the right side
of the fuselage. That would be the easiest and flattest area, but I
wasn't sure if the low pressure from the wing would extend that far up,
or not. Does anyone here know, or does anyone know of a different type
vent with a built in adjustment that would fit on a curved surface that
I could install in the canopy skirt itself? Thanks for any advice.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Can one support the fuselage by the wood they insert
for shipping or set it up on saw horses on blankets?
When I say wood I mean where the spar goes through.
Mike Comeaux 6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pitot tube fitting / |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
writes:
>
>Dear all,
>
>1. pitot tube fitting (PART NO. AN832 - 4D)
>
>In Van's drawing No. 20 for RV6A, we canot work out which way round
>the tube fitting should go. One end of the fitting has 2 lots of
threads,
>the other end has one lot of thread. Which end should go inside the wing
?
>
>Best regards
>Kamy Cheng
>University of Western Australia - RV6A
I mounted the fitting on a U channel inside the wing with just the tube
sticking through the wing skin. That is, there is no fitting on the
outside of the wing. Just make sure you have access to it from the
aileron access cutout, or mount it on its own access cover.
(One of these days I'm going to run a second tube thru the wing for the
static line. Then I can mount my 1/8" diameter stainless steel
pitot/static tube in the wing.)
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine Ivoprop VP Prop Sportcraft Antennas
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Multiport Fuel Valves for IOs |
If some of you are looking for high quality fuel selector valves that
simultaneously switch supply and return ports (for injected applications or
just those that want to plumb a return to the supply tank for breaking vapor
lock) see the following web site:
http://www.olympic.net/innov/fm.html
Apparently many of these valves are already used in local RVs.
Spread the word.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: FAA Report! |
<< Excerpt from recent FAA accident report
Eye witness statement:
Aircraft: Cessna 172
Pilot: 30 years old, CFI, IR
Fatalities: None
Date of Accident: 7/10/82
Witness: Line attendant at airport.
Pilot came to airport at 9 AM 10 July 1982. Line boy reports padlock on
his hanger door was so rusted he had to break it off with a 10#
ball-peen hammer.
Also had to inflate all 3 tires and scrape pigeon droppings off wind
screen. After several attempts to drain fuel strainers pilot finally
got what looked like fuel out of the wing sumps. Couldn't get the oil
dipstick out of the engine but said it was okay last time he looked.
Engine started okay, ran rough for about 1/2 minute, then died. Then
battery would not turn prop. Used battery cart and although starter
was smoking real good, it finally started and the propwash blew the
smoke away.
Line boy offered to fuel airplane up but pilot said he was late for an
appointment at a nearby airport. Said it wasn't far. Taxied about 1/2
way out to active runway and the engine stopped. Pushed it back to the
fuel pumps and bought 3 gallons for the left wing tank. Started it
again. This time, he was almost out to the runway when it quit
again. Put a little rock under nose wheel; hand propped it; and
was seen still trying to climb in the airplane as it went across
the runway. Finally got in it; blew out the right tire trying to
stop before the cement plant.
When he taxied back in to have the tire changed, he also had the
line boy hit the right wing with 3 gallons of gas. Witness, who
saw the take off, said the aircraft lined up and took off to the
north. Takeoff looked fairly normal, nose came up about 300 ft. down the
runway. At midfield nose came down. Engine coughed twice then cut power
and applied the brakes which made both doors fly open and a big fat brown
book fell out on the runway and released probably a million little white
pages with diagrams on them. Looked like sort of a snow storm.
After several real loud runups at the end, he turned her around and took off
in the other direction going south into the wind. Only this time he horsed
her off at the end and pulled her up real steep like one of them jet
fighter planes to about 300 feet then the engine quit! Did a sort of a
slow
turn back toward the airport kinda like that Art School guy and about 30
ft. off the McDonald's cafe she started roaring again. He did sort of a
high speed pass down the runway; put the flaps down to full and that sucker
went up like he was going to do an Immelman!
The engine quit again and he turned right and I thought he was coming right
through the front window of the F.B.O.; but he pulled her up; went through
the TV antenna and the little rooster with the NSE&W things over the
building then bounced the main wheels off the roof of 3 different cars in
the lot, a Porsche, a Mercedes and Dr. Brown's new El Dorado.
When he bounced off the El Dorado the engine roared to life and he got
her flying. Came around toward the runway and set her down once on the
overrun, once on the runway and once in the grass beside the runway. He
taxied into the ramp, shut her down and ordered 3 more gallons of gas.
Said it was for safety's sake.
Then he asked where the phone booth was as he had to call his student and
tell him he was going to be a little late.
Fly safe ya'll!
>>
---------------------
From: DHeule(at)compuserve.com (Dane Heule, Colorado)
Date: 97-08-09 17:28:18 EDT
Hay Pard!
Don't know where this will reach you but thought you ought to read this
Accident Report.
Excerpt from recent FAA accident report
Eye witness statement:
Aircraft: Cessna 172
Pilot: 30 years old, CFI, IR
Fatalities: None
Date of Accident: 7/10/82
Witness: Line attendant at airport.
Pilot came to airport at 9 AM 10 July 1982. Line boy reports padlock on
his hanger door was so rusted he had to break it off with a 10#
ball-peen hammer.
Also had to inflate all 3 tires and scrape pigeon droppings off wind
screen. After several attempts to drain fuel strainers pilot finally
got what looked like fuel out of the wing sumps. Couldn't get the oil
dipstick out of the engine but said it was okay last time he looked.
Engine started okay, ran rough for about 1/2 minute, then died. Then
battery would not turn prop. Used battery cart and although starter
was smoking real good, it finally started and the propwash blew the
smoke away.
Line boy offered to fuel airplane up but pilot said he was late for an
appointment at a nearby airport. Said it wasn't far. Taxied about 1/2
way out to active runway and the engine stopped. Pushed it back to the
fuel pumps and bought 3 gallons for the left wing tank. Started it
again. This time, he was almost out to the runway when it quit
again. Put a little rock under nose wheel; hand propped it; and
was seen still trying to climb in the airplane as it went across
the runway. Finally got in it; blew out the right tire trying to
stop before the cement plant.
When he taxied back in to have the tire changed, he also had the
line boy hit the right wing with 3 gallons of gas. Witness, who
saw the take off, said the aircraft lined up and took off to the
north. Takeoff looked fairly normal, nose came up about 300 ft. down the
runway. At midfield nose came down. Engine coughed twice then cut power
and applied the brakes which made both doors fly open and a big fat brown
book fell out on the runway and released probably a million little white
pages with diagrams on them. Looked like sort of a snow storm.
After several real loud runups at the end, he turned her around and took off
in the other direction going south into the wind. Only this time he horsed
her off at the end and pulled her up real steep like one of them jet
fighter planes to about 300 feet then the engine quit! Did a sort of a slow
turn back toward the airport kinda like that Art School guy and about 30
ft. off the McDonald's cafe she started roaring again. He did sort of a
high speed pass down the runway; put the flaps down to full and that sucker
went up like he was going to do an Immelman!
The engine quit again and he turned right and I thought he was coming right
through the front window of the F.B.O.; but he pulled her up; went through
the TV antenna and the little rooster with the NSE&W things over the
building then bounced the main wheels off the roof of 3 different cars in
the lot, a Porsche, a Mercedes and Dr. Brown's new El Dorado.
When he bounced off the El Dorado the engine roared to life and he got
her flying. Came around toward the runway and set her down once on the
overrun, once on the runway and once in the grass beside the runway. He
taxied into the ramp, shut her down and ordered 3 more gallons of gas.
Said it was for safety's sake.
Then he asked where the phone booth was as he had to call his student and
tell him he was going to be a little late.
Fly safe ya'll!
Dane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rvbildr(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Statistics |
Here's one more Oshkosh report with some rough numbers:
I took notes on only 63 RV-6's and came up with the following:
Engines-
Lyc 180hp/200hp 50%
Lyc 150 hp 25%
Lyc 160 hp 25%
Props-
Wood 50%
Metal 50%(of the metal ones, Hartzell far outnumbered
Sensenich)
Average empty weight- 1060
" gross " -1677
It was truly RV heaven. Don't mean to ignore you "4" and "3" types, but
I'm building a 6. Thanks for all the hints from the folks I talked with.
Mal
N698MH
instrument panel & rudder trim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
aol.com!RV6160hp(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> But now I got the the crack................. Flaming I highly recommend,
For what it's worth, I have to comment on this. I have a good friend who has operated
a plexiglas fabrication shop for 15 years. He is most definitely an expert and
that is why I asked
for his advice before beginning the canopy installation on my RV-6.
His most emphatic point was, DO NOT FLAME THE EDGES! He said that while it appears
to work well and is
fast and easy, you are just begging for trouble. Heating the edge of the plexi
causes MAJOR stresses
to build up that almost inevitably will lead to cracks developing during fabrication
or later on through
vibration, flight loads, etc. I tried flaming a piece of scrap and, wow it sure
is fast and easy and
give the appearance of a perfectly finished edge. The reality is though, that flaming
is apparently
used by only the shoddiest of plastic fabricators. I apologise to those who have
flamed their canopy
edges. I'm sure you aren't getting much pleasure out of reading this, and my friend
could be wrong, I
suppose, but I trust his opinion. Incidentally, yes of course the canopy is heated
up to do the initial
bubble forming at the factory, but it is heated as a single piece, so it is normalized
and local stresses
don't develop. If you can afford the edge distance, you might consider refinishing
your edges using the techniques
described below. If you machine away a bit of the flamed edge, you will be eliminating
at least
some of the accumulated stress. (I have not tried this, so practice on scrap first)
Now, I'll pass on my friend's advice on how to properly finish your canopy. Again,
this is the advice of
an experienced pro, adapted to the difficulty of working with a large curved piece.
My friend is a bit of a
perfectionist, so perhaps some of this is overkill. Not knowing any better, I did
what he told me to.
1. Although Van's recommends the cutoff wheel for cutting the canopy to shape,
you must be careful to minimize
the heat build up. This goes for all plexi work. Don't let it get hot or you will
cause stress build ups (and
potential cracking). I
recommend George Orndorfs method of using many low speed passes rather than a single
high speed pass.
Use the air drill rather than a die grinder, since it has a gear drive and has
much more torque at low
cutting speeds. The die grinder at slow speed is gutless and just jams all the
time.
How the pros do it: Straight cuts are made on a table saw with a multi toothed
(like 80 or so) carbide blade.
Curved cuts are done with a router, either hand held or table type.
In general, plexi should be MACHINED, not ground or melted. Obviously you can't
cut your RV canopy on a table saw,
( and don't even think of using a reciprocating saw) so the cut off wheel method
is reasonable provided you
keep the speed (heat) down and make lots of passes.
2. To finish the edges, I recommend a scraper blade. Avery's now carries these,
but I ended up making my own out
of a piece of .040 4130. Use a round file to cut a half moon shaped "bite" with
nice sharp edges. Make the cut
out at least 1/8 wider than the plexi, and round off the sharp corners, otherwise
the corners will catch
and scratch the plexi. Use the scraper like a draw knife and scrape and round the
plexi edges until all cut
marks are eliminated. Sand lightly and buff with a small buffing wheel on a SLOW
die grinder using red buffing
compound. You will have a perfect transparent edge that is worth the trouble. It
takes all of maybe 5
minutes to scrape, sand and buff a 24 inch section of canopy edge. A couple of
hours work will leave a perfect
canopy that is as resistant to cracking as can be done.
How the pros do it: Again, they use a router table or joiner with a round over
bit, followed by light sanding
and buffing. I don't own a router, and it would probably be awkward to use on the
canopy, but the scraping
is fast and easy.
3. If the cut off wheel slipped, like it did to me, and left some extra gouges
or scratches near your canopy
edges, these should be eliminated. I used a small rounded cutting bit on my die
grinder, at low speed, and
machined away the scratches. Follow up with course, medium and fine sandpaper,
and final buffing. This might
sound like a lot of work, but the plexi is so soft that it goes very quickly.
4. Don't ever use windex or any ammonia based cleaner on your plexi. THis will
again cause stress buildup and
potential cracking due to some kind of chemical reaction. This might not show up
immediately, but it is
asking for trouble.
Rule of thumb: plexi is not very forgiving: 3 strikes and your out: Flame the edges
(strike 1), use ammonia
(strike 2) and flex the part (strike 3 - crack). If you only make one mistake,
you can sometimes get
away with it.
5. Do use plexiglas drill bits whenever you are drilling plexi. I made one of my
own by grinding a standard
bit according to the instructions from Van's but the special bits from Avery work
much better. When drilling
though multiple aluminum-plexi-aluminum laminations (like the side skirts) you
need to change bits, as the plexi
bits won't work on aluminum. Pilot drill the side skirt off the airplane, then
reassemble the side skirts and
use a plexi drill to drill partway through the plexi. Remove the side skirts and
use the plexi drill to
finish drilling all the holes through the plexi. (The plexi bit has a long point
that will bottom out
on the inner side skirt if you try to drill all the way through the assembly)
Then reassemble the skirt and use a standard bit to drill though the holes in the
outer skirt and plexi,
into the inner skirt. Finally, position the UHMW screw anchor strip and pilot drill
this strip in assembly.
If you try to cut corners with this operation by not using the proper bits, you
might get away with it,
but you might not. I have found that by knowing the right way to work with this
stuff, I no longer have
any fear whatsoever about cracking my canopy (knock wood).
I hope I havn't ruined anyone's day, but I felt I had to pass on this advice on
working with plexi.
regards,
Curt Reimer
RV-6
doing canopy side skirts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
Curt Reimer wrote:
> Then reassemble the skirt and use a standard bit to drill though the > holes
in the outer skirt and plexi,
Sounds like asking for trouble enlarging the hole in plexi with a normal
bit?!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
> (snip)
>I hope I havn't ruined anyone's day, but I felt I had to pass on this
advice on working with plexi.
> (snip)
Curt, you sure didn't ruin my day! Thanks for going to the work of posting
this, many of us will need this advise soon.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Headsets for sale |
My wife bought me an ANR headset for my birthday. I liked it and let her try
it. She liked it too. I bought her one so I could get mine back. The
result of all this gift giving is that I have two very nice Sigtronics top of
the line stereo headsets that I don't need, one with individual volume
controls and cloth ear seal covers, and the other one with Oregon Aero
Softtop Headband and Softseal earcup cushions. They will also work as mono
with an adaptor plug from Radio Shack. Total value is over $500. at today's
prices. I will sell both and throw in a carying case for $200. I will even
throw in a push to talk switch that came with the headsets if I can find it.
I have never used it because my previous plane didn't need it and neither
does my RV. I'm sure that it is around my hangar somewhere. Earliest phone
call or E-mail to me gets them and I will pay the shipping.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
(314) 928-8703
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dropping objects |
> Until you get it in the Carb and the engine quits,(been there done that,
> see my homepage) or in the cooling intake and you burn up a cylinder.... Or
I tend to agree. Chasing toilet paper has always been great fun in my ultralight,
but i don't think its what the RV does best.
Andy Gold
RV6A N-5060 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
I wonder if any others on the list have all of a sudden started receiving
a lot of junk E-mail? Are these people pulling our addresses off of the
list or, is it because I posted a couple of times to a couple of newsgroups.
I've received several unsolicited E-mails that are quite large and take a
long time to download.
How does one combat this annoyance? I notice in some of the newsgroups
that people have inserted extra characters in their E-mail addresses. I
guess this would cause a bounced message if a spammer were to send to a
modified address.
If I modify my E-mail address to: BSkinner*nospam*@navix.net when my real
address is BSkinner(at)navix.net, will this stop the spam?
Sorry to bother the list with this but I know there are a lot of computer
gurus on the list and list traffic is a little slow, lately, anyway. You
can E-mail me off list and if anyone else is interested in the answers to
the above, I'll E-mail the answers that I receive to you off-list so as not
to clog the list.
Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I am on the other end of the spectrum. I know how to mess up a canopy.
If you are going to lay up wet fiberglass for the front windshield
fairing, do not trust 2 or 3 layers of standard saran wrap type plastic,
the thicker plastic that is like what comes on your sheet aluminum, or a
thick layer or two of good car wax to prevent the resin from damaging
your plexiglass. I tried all of these first, because other people told
me they had used them. Enough resin seeped through to leave a very thin
film around the edge of the canopy where the fairing was going to be.
Other than looking bad, nothing happened for 3 or 4 days. Then a bunch
of small cracks developed all around where the resin had contacted the
plexiglass. Still not touching it, the next day more cracks became
evident so I figured I better do something. I had a 1 inch and a 2 inch
crack I had to stop drill. There were about twenty hairline cracks on
the edge about 1/8 inch long. I carefully filed down the entire front
edge about 1/8 inch to get rid of all but 3 or 4 small cracks that I
ended up stop drilling. No more cracks have developed since I did
this. I have tapped on it and twisted it a little bit to make sure it
would be okay, then mounted it on the frame and fully attached it with
6/32 stainless screws, very lightly torqued. That was 3 days ago and
no more cracks have developed and only a little of the damaged plexi can
be seen. Maybe it will be okay. There were no cracks at all anywhere
else on the entire canopy. I hope my stupid mistakes stop someone else
from wasting their time, too. Oh, I ended up using thick tin foil to
cover the plexi. I don't know why I didn't think of that first.
Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
<33EE1D11.322C(at)mbnet.mb.ca>
>Curt Reimer wrote:
>> Then reassemble the skirt and use a standard bit to drill though the >
holes in the outer skirt and plexi,
>
Finn Lassen wrote:
>Sounds like asking for trouble enlarging the hole in plexi with a normal
>bit?!
>
I have found that a UniBit in a cordless drill (for it's slow speed)
works well for enlarging holes past a #30 size. This bit fits in with the
'machining' recommendation of Curt Reimer's previous posting. A
combination of layers of plexiglas and aluminum would be no problem for
this bit.
It works with more of a scraping action than a cutting as it enlarges.
The "single hole" countersink bits are also good for plexiglas for the same
reason.
... Gil (I like my UniBit) Alexander
finish kit, still on hold ...
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron mounting bracket |
Hello all... I am in need of some quick advice.
I am working on the left wing aileron on my 6A. The mounting brackets
W-613 and W-614 are a
little wider than the rear spar and as rough fitted, will not line up
within the template very well.
I am thinking that the transition from the main skin(top) to the aileron
skin should be a smooth line.
How much of the brackets did you all have to trim and on which end..??
Any other tips in this area
would be appreciaited.
Final note: My kit is a little older if it makes a difference.
TIA
Rick Osgood
RV6A Wings - well left side anyway ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy don'ts |
What resin did you use (polyester or epoxy)?
Scott Gesele
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
>
> I wonder if any others on the list have all of a sudden started receiving
>a lot of junk E-mail?
You can E-mail me off list and if anyone else is interested in the answers to
>the above
Hey, I'm interested NOW. I, too, am getting far more than I want of SPAM.
I even got an e-mail from some Lawyer telling ME to cease and desist from
complaining about any SPAM their client may have sent; I didn't complain
about any spam but still got that 'cease and desist' email.
Did anyone else get an email from 'Russell L. Allyn, Attorney at Law',
khskllp(at)aol.com, telling them to stop complaining about their clients
'protected activity under the laws of free speech'??
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
>
> I wonder if any others on the list have all of a sudden started
> receiving
> a lot of junk E-mail?
Bob
I know I would also like to know the info from some of the computer
experts. What really pisses me off is when I get junk mail telling
me how to send baulk junk mail.
There ought to be a law against using a phony email address if sending
junk mail.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: canopy don'ts |
I used whatever resin comes with the fiberglass repair kits. I'm sure
it wasn't epoxy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Starrett 737 SPC Output... |
[Listers- I realize that this topic isn't really about RVs, but I posted
the message below to rec.crafts.metalworking and didn't really get any
response. I know there are a couple of metal workers on this List so it
seemed like a good crowd to ask... :-) -Matt]
Subject: Starrett 737 SPC Output Specification - Help.
I have a Starrett 737 vertical scale on the knee of my vertical mill and
would like to interface its SPC digital output to a small, single axis
display unit manufactured by Mitutoyo (Series 572). The Mitutoyo
display unit came with a really nice technical spec on the SPC data
format (both protocol and electrical information) that it is expecting.
The Starrett, on the other hand, came with a useless sheet of paper on
how to press its front panel buttons - no documentation whatsoever on
the SPC.
Does anyone have some technical information on the SPC port on the
Starrett 737? I am in need of the following bits of information:
# Pin out (Both the square 4 pin on the unit and the 6 pin on
the connecting cable.)
# Electrical characteristics (hi/lo levels, timings, etc.)
# Output protocol specification.
Any information you could email or FAX my way would be most helpful.
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
>--------------
>
> I wonder if any others on the list have all of a sudden started receiving
>a lot of junk E-mail? Are these people pulling our addresses off of the
>list or, is it because I posted a couple of times to a couple of newsgroups.
>I've received several unsolicited E-mails that are quite large and take a
>long time to download.
>
> <...snip...>
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>--------------
Listers-
I too have noticed an increase in the amount of SPAM email I've been receiving
over the last few months. Be aware that the information you have configured
into your web browser can generally be captured by the web sites you visit -
information such as your email address, etc. As Bob mentioned, posting to
news groups is also a great way to get added to SPAM lists. I don't expect
there is anything special going on with the recent increase in junk mail;
I just think the 'quick-buck' people are just getting online. What next - the
physic-network on the Inter-network...? -Oh, great.
I just went through last month's US Mail junk-mail (I go though it once a month
when I do my bills), and excluding the monthly publications I receive on
purpose, I ended up hauling about 10 lbs of useless crap out to the trash.
What a waste. At least with Internet SPAM, innocent trees don't have to die...
Finally, I want to assure everyone on the Lists that under no circumstances
do I sell or release to rv-list and zenith-list email addresses for profit.
It is possible, however, to download the current member list using special
messages to the mail list software. This avilability is fairly obscure would
unlikely be exploited by SPAMer trash. I do, however, reserve the right to
use the Lists as necessary to shamelessly promote the Matronics' product
line... :-)
Matt Dralle
RV-List & Zenith-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)nike.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Multiport Fuel Valves for IOs
Message not delivered to recipients below. Press F1 for help with VNM
error codes.
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Mail could not deliver the message because
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If changes to the profile are made, the recipient
must log out and then log in again before Mail can
deliver the message.
The sender can recover the message and forward it
when the recipient's user profile problem has been
resolved.
If some of you are looking for high quality fuel selector valves that
simultaneously switch supply and return ports (for injected applications or
just those that want to plumb a return to the supply tank for breaking vapor
lock) see the following web site:
http://www.olympic.net/innov/fm.html
Apparently many of these valves are already used in local RVs.
Spread the word.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Desktop=Services%SvrSupp%USRIT(at)nike.com> (desktop services) |
| Subject: | Fwd: FAA Report! |
Your message has been received by Server Support Services and will be
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-------------
Original Text
>From aol.com!RV4131rb(at)matronics.com, on 8/10/97 2:44 AM:
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displayed
as is. Therefore, it has been stored in the file `mail.txt'. Please view
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Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul A. Rosales" <prosales(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | Superior Air Parts, O-360? |
For those who attended OSH, was there any new information on the rumored
O-360 clone from Superior? I'm starting to think about engines and, as a
mechanic hobbyist, it's always peeked my interest.
Paul Rosales
RV-6A Fuselage (1 skin away from coming out of the jig)
Lancaster, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)nike.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot tube fitting /
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writes:
>
>Dear all,
>
>1. pitot tube fitting (PART NO. AN832 - 4D)
>
>In Van's drawing No. 20 for RV6A, we canot work out which way round
>the tube fitting should go. One end of the fitting has 2 lots of
threads,
>the other end has one lot of thread. Which end should go inside the wing
?
>
>Best regards
>Kamy Cheng
>University of Western Australia - RV6A
I mounted the fitting on a U channel inside the wing with just the tube
sticking through the wing skin. That is, there is no fitting on the
outside of the wing. Just make sure you have access to it from the
aileron access cutout, or mount it on its own access cover.
(One of these days I'm going to run a second tube thru the wing for the
static line. Then I can mount my 1/8" diameter stainless steel
pitot/static tube in the wing.)
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine Ivoprop VP Prop Sportcraft Antennas
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Desktop=Services%SvrSupp%USRIT(at)nike.com> (desktop services) |
| Subject: | Re: Multiport Fuel Valves for IOs |
Your message has been received by Server Support Services and will be
processed by the next business day.
Server Support Services
715-9333
-------------
Original Text
>From aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com, on 8/10/97 2:41 AM:
If some of you are looking for high quality fuel selector valves that
simultaneously switch supply and return ports (for injected applications or
just those that want to plumb a return to the supply tank for breaking
vapor
lock) see the following web site:
http://www.olympic.net/innov/fm.html
Apparently many of these valves are already used in local RVs.
Spread the word.
-GV
--+
|
|
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
subject. |
|
|
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)nike.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: FAA Report!
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---------------------- Original Message Follows ----------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Desktop=Services%SvrSupp%USRIT(at)nike.com> (desktop services) |
| Subject: | Re: pitot tube fitting / |
charset=US-ASCII
Your message has been received by Server Support Services and will be
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Original Text
>From juno.com!less_drag(at)matronics.com (JAMES E AYERS), on 8/10/97 1:29 AM:
writes:
>
>Dear all,
>
>1. pitot tube fitting (PART NO. AN832 - 4D)
>
>In Van's drawing No. 20 for RV6A, we canot work out which way round
>the tube fitting should go. One end of the fitting has 2 lots of
threads,
>the other end has one lot of thread. Which end should go inside the wing
?
>
>Best regards
>Kamy Cheng
>University of Western Australia - RV6A
I mounted the fitting on a U channel inside the wing with just the tube
sticking through the wing skin. That is, there is no fitting on the
outside of the wing. Just make sure you have access to it from the
aileron access cutout, or mount it on its own access cover.
(One of these days I'm going to run a second tube thru the wing for the
static line. Then I can mount my 1/8" diameter stainless steel
pitot/static tube in the wing.)
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine Ivoprop VP Prop Sportcraft Antennas
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
--+
|
|
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
subject. |
|
|
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)nike.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh Statistics
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resolved.
Here's one more Oshkosh report with some rough numbers:
I took notes on only 63 RV-6's and came up with the following:
Engines-
Lyc 180hp/200hp 50%
Lyc 150 hp 25%
Lyc 160 hp 25%
Props-
Wood 50%
Metal 50%(of the metal ones, Hartzell far outnumbered
Sensenich)
Average empty weight- 1060
" gross " -1677
It was truly RV heaven. Don't mean to ignore you "4" and "3" types, but
I'm building a 6. Thanks for all the hints from the folks I talked with.
Mal
N698MH
instrument panel & rudder trim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)nike.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
Subject: RV-List: Headsets for sale
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My wife bought me an ANR headset for my birthday. I liked it and let her try
it. She liked it too. I bought her one so I could get mine back. The
result of all this gift giving is that I have two very nice Sigtronics top of
the line stereo headsets that I don't need, one with individual volume
controls and cloth ear seal covers, and the other one with Oregon Aero
Softtop Headband and Softseal earcup cushions. They will also work as mono
with an adaptor plug from Radio Shack. Total value is over $500. at today's
prices. I will sell both and throw in a carying case for $200. I will even
throw in a push to talk switch that came with the headsets if I can find it.
I have never used it because my previous plane didn't need it and neither
does my RV. I'm sure that it is around my hangar somewhere. Earliest phone
call or E-mail to me gets them and I will pay the shipping.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
(314) 928-8703
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
dralle(at)matronics.com wrote:
> It is possible, however, to download the current member list using special
> messages to the mail list software. This avilability is fairly obscure
> would unlikely be exploited by SPAMer trash.
Are you saying that non-members can get the member list? If so, you may
be able to set it so that only members can get it... I know that other
lists I'm on have that option. It would be an unusually determined
spammer who subscribed to a list to collect its addresses.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)nike.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
Subject: RV-List: Re: Junk mail
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>--------------
>
> I wonder if any others on the list have all of a sudden started receiving
>a lot of junk E-mail? Are these people pulling our addresses off of the
>list or, is it because I posted a couple of times to a couple of newsgroups.
>I've received several unsolicited E-mails that are quite large and take a
>long time to download.
>
> <...snip...>
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>--------------
Listers-
I too have noticed an increase in the amount of SPAM email I've been receiving
over the last few months. Be aware that the information you have configured
into your web browser can generally be captured by the web sites you visit -
information such as your email address, etc. As Bob mentioned, posting to
news groups is also a great way to get added to SPAM lists. I don't expect
there is anything special going on with the recent increase in junk mail;
I just think the 'quick-buck' people are just getting online. What next - the
physic-network on the Inter-network...? -Oh, great.
I just went through last month's US Mail junk-mail (I go though it once a month
when I do my bills), and excluding the monthly publications I receive on
purpose, I ended up hauling about 10 lbs of useless crap out to the trash.
What a waste. At least with Internet SPAM, innocent trees don't have to die...
Finally, I want to assure everyone on the Lists that under no circumstances
do I sell or release to rv-list and zenith-list email addresses for profit.
It is possible, however, to download the current member list using special
messages to the mail list software. This avilability is fairly obscure would
unlikely be exploited by SPAMer trash. I do, however, reserve the right to
use the Lists as necessary to shamelessly promote the Matronics' product
line... :-)
Matt Dralle
RV-List & Zenith-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)nike.com> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
Subject: RV-List: Starrett 737 SPC Output...
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[Listers- I realize that this topic isn't really about RVs, but I posted
the message below to rec.crafts.metalworking and didn't really get any
response. I know there are a couple of metal workers on this List so it
seemed like a good crowd to ask... :-) -Matt]
Subject: Starrett 737 SPC Output Specification - Help.
I have a Starrett 737 vertical scale on the knee of my vertical mill and
would like to interface its SPC digital output to a small, single axis
display unit manufactured by Mitutoyo (Series 572). The Mitutoyo
display unit came with a really nice technical spec on the SPC data
format (both protocol and electrical information) that it is expecting.
The Starrett, on the other hand, came with a useless sheet of paper on
how to press its front panel buttons - no documentation whatsoever on
the SPC.
Does anyone have some technical information on the SPC port on the
Starrett 737? I am in need of the following bits of information:
# Pin out (Both the square 4 pin on the unit and the 6 pin on
the connecting cable.)
# Electrical characteristics (hi/lo levels, timings, etc.)
# Output protocol specification.
Any information you could email or FAX my way would be most helpful.
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: canopy don'ts |
<< I used whatever resin comes with the fiberglass repair kits. I'm sure
it wasn't epoxy.
>>
Uh-oh. I heard that polyester against plexi was very bad thing. I can't
recall the exact chemical reaction, but I seem to recall that the MEK in the
polyester removes the plasticizers from the plexi, allowing it to crack and
craze in the area of the bond. Isn't this covered in the assy manual?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen" <clevtool(at)tdsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Tool web page update |
> If it's a simple conversion of
> the files used to print your catalog, that's one thing, but a straight
HTML
> version with .gifs or .Jpegs is probably a better way to go.
> --
> Richard Chandler
>
We do our entire catalog in house digitally, print a laser proof, and send
the hard disk to the printing company. To convert to the pdf format we
just "print" to the acrobat builder and upload the files to my server. In
effect everyone has access to the catalog before the ups man picks up the
disk to take it to the printer. (it may be the fed ex man next time). We
have had many requests for pictures in our html. The pictures at the
current resolution take up ~750meg. and with the time to convert them to
lower res. and add to the html combined with cost of server space and
number of pictures I don't see it as an option at this time. The text html
version of the catalog will remain as always, but may take a few days to
come up to date.
Thanks,
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
1-800-368-1822
clevtool(at)tdsi.net
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Beaton <beatonk(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 fuselage for sale |
RV6 fuselage jig for sale. Two fuselages built on the jig.
It is for sale for $75.
Please respond to,
Kevin Beaton
beatonk(at)usaa.com
San Antonio, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
receiving
>a lot of junk E-mail? Are these people pulling our addresses off of the
>list or, is it because I posted a couple of times to a couple of newsgroups.
Bob;
I would suspect from a source other than the list. I haven't received any
except that one to the list about a month ago. I'm not involved with any
newsgroups since 1) I don't know how and 2) my local provider doesn't
support/provide a newsgroup service.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Reichert" <reichera(at)clark.net> |
All,
Please allow me to address the junk mail problem.
First:
"I wonder if any others on the list have all of a sudden started
receiving a lot of junk E-mail? Are these people pulling our addresses
off of the list or, is it because I posted a couple of times to a couple
of newsgroups. I've received several unsolicited E-mails that are quite
large and take a long time to download."
More than likely, it is due to newsgroup postings. UseNet is popular
for "farming" e-mail addresses for bulk mail purposes. Another source
is web pages. If you have your e-mail address on a web page, it may
have been picked up by a web robot for mail purposes.
"How does one combat this annoyance? I notice in some of the newsgroups
that people have inserted extra characters in their E-mail addresses. I
guess this would cause a bounced message if a spammer were to send to a
modified address."
Yes, it will, as long as whoever is doing the farming does not pick up
on the modification and correct it. There are no guarantees, of
course, but it should help.
"If I modify my E-mail address to: BSkinner*nospam*@navix.net when my
real address is BSkinner(at)navix.net, will this stop the spam?"
Probably not stop it, but reduce it.
"I know I would also like to know the info from some of the computer
experts. What really pisses me off is when I get junk mail telling me how
to send baulk junk mail. There ought to be a law against using a phony
email address if sending junk mail."
There isn't. However, Representative Chris Smith is introducing a law
to do just this.
Hey, I'm interested NOW. I, too, am getting far more than I want of SPAM.
I even got an e-mail from some Lawyer telling ME to cease and desist from
complaining about any SPAM their client may have sent; I didn't complain
about any spam but still got that 'cease and desist' email.
Did anyone else get an email from 'Russell L. Allyn, Attorney at Law',
khskllp(at)aol.com, telling them to stop complaining about their clients
'protected activity under the laws of free speech'??"
The mail you refer to was a fraud. It appears that someone at Samsung
got someone else "pissed off" at them, so they have turned around and
tried to frame Samsung and this "lawyer". Pay no attention to it.
Depending on what kind of e-mail client you have, there may be
something you can do. For the folks with Unix access, if your local
mail delivery agent is "procmail", you can use a .procmailrc file to
filter out unwanted sites. It is some work, but I have it running
on one of my sites, and it does filter out quite a bit of stuff and
bounces it right back to the postmaster of that site.
If your local delivery agent is "deliver", the use of a .deliver script
is useful. I have one that I've written to filter incoming mail and
process it according to entries in an information file. My script is
beta, but if you want to try it, let me know.
If you are running the latest version of Eudora, it has the capability
to filter mail. I'm not familiar enough with it to explain it, but I
know it exists. Apparently, it also filters on user-defined parameters
and processes it accordingly.
Two other things to do. If you can read the headers, you can determine
what site the stuff came from and return it, headers and all, to
postmaster@ as a complaint.
Some of this won't work because some sites exist solely to support
bulk e-mail (commonly called Unsolicited
Commercial E-mail (UCE) or "spam"). Such sites are CyberPromo and
Answerme.com (which are actually the same). You will also see
savetrees.com.
If you want more information and to show support, look at:
http://www.cauce.org
CAUCE (Coalition Against Unsolicited Commercial E-mail) is working to
curb UCE, and is in support of Chris Smith's legislation. Get more
info on it from the CAUCE site.
I'll shut up now. :-)
- Alan Reichert
News Administrator,
Spam fighter,
Wannabe RV-6 builder #24179
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
> I wonder if any others on the list have all of a sudden started
> receiving a lot of junk E-mail? Are these people pulling our
> addresses off of the list or, is it because I posted a couple of
> times to a couple of newsgroups.
No, I haven't been receiving spam. Most of the addresses to which
spam is sent are derived from newsgroup postings, although some comes
from websites that ask you to register (and give your email address)
before using them. You don't always have to give your correct email
address to the latter, if don't want them to contact you.
> How does one combat this annoyance? I notice in some of the newsgroups
> that people have inserted extra characters in their E-mail addresses. I
> guess this would cause a bounced message if a spammer were to send to a
> modified address.
Exactly. This is probably the easiest way to save yourself the
trouble and cost of downloading junk email just so that you can
discover that it's junk. Be kind, and pick an email domain that
doesn't exist. Otherwise, the spam will make its way through the net
to the valid mail domain and be rejected by it once it determines that
the user doesn't exist at the site. A bogus domain (I just checked)
is invalid.net, so setting your return email address to
bogus(at)invalid.net would be OK.
> If I modify my E-mail address to: BSkinner*nospam*@navix.net when my real
> address is BSkinner(at)navix.net, will this stop the spam?
It would stop people who acquire email address from future news
postings from sending you email, but navix.net would still incur the
costs.
--
'Rob
Rob Rimbold
Hewlett Packard Company
Workstation Systems Division
rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com
Note: These are my own opinions, and do not necessarily represent
those of Hewlett Packard.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounting bracket |
It's been a while but I remember grinding off a lot. On the order of 1/4
inch at least. Be sure and use both templates on the aileron as you may have
some twist in the aileron or the wing and you want the best fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
I purchased a Wheelen Strobe power supply at OSH this year but decided
to get the cable and connectors
back in Minneapolis. As I am finding.... these molex connectors are not
in any electronics stores, including
the "Electronics Parts Suppliers". Does anyone have a source on these
connectors???
Thanks
Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Superior Air Parts, O-360? +prop discussion |
2 RV6 builders here:
We, stopped in the Superior booth at OSH 97. We saw a sectioned in half,
crank shaft and half a engine case of theirs. What is of the now "Kit
0360". 2 years ago they said it shouldn't be long now, and they really
appeared less than optimistic for it in a reasonable future in OSH 97 now.
They led us to believe they have lots to go and lots of projects to left on
their plate.
Same with a F/P metal prop from Sensencrich (please, excuse spelling). A
0360 180 F/P appears a long way off. The ones they had developed were poor
performers and vibration problems.
The 160HP metal props factory limiting to 2600 rpm appears to be a forever,
as vibrations are present in current one past that, and subesequent tests of
F/P metals for 160 hp with out vibrations were such configured that
performance sucked.
Good thing, though out of Sensencrich (again please, excuse spelling) folks
was a metal prop spinner. $300.00 more, anodized and all per drilled to bolt
on their props and all on the RV. Is it worth it?
RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Dave McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition |
I purchased a CDI Electornic Ignition from Van's last year but my engine is
a older Lyc. from a Apachi (O-320 A3A) which doesn't have a boss on the
front of the case to bolt the bracket to. I could make a bracket to bolt to
the case but I would prefer to stay with the production type of installation
for this unit as I know that works. So I would like to sell it. I was told
this unit is certified in down in Australia which I take on good faith
because of the source. Other than reading the manual it is un-used, still in
the original box. I would take $800.00 for it. Which is a $400.00 loss for
me, and a saving of $139. from Van's lastest price for you. You can E-mail
me off the RV-net or call (541)259-4500.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounting bracket |
Rick and Barbara Osgood wrote:
>
>
> Hello all... I am in need of some quick advice.
>
> I am working on the left wing aileron on my 6A. The mounting brackets
> W-613 and W-614 are a
> little wider than the rear spar and as rough fitted, will not line up
> within the template very well.
>
>
Rick,
I cut off almost 1/4" off of what would be the top of the bracket with
wings level.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
I kind of did both. First, I took screwed two pieces of wood to the top
of my sawhorse which were shimmed up to a mild "V" shape (to match the
bottom of the fuselage perfectly right under the spar) and the sawhorse
beefed up with crossbraces. I placed a foam mat between this and the
fuselage. It is nice a sturdy, even when getting in and out of the
fuselage. I then had a piece of 2x6 planed down to fit as a spar. This
doesn't carry any weight really (well, I used wedges between the spar
and the sawhorse, so some weight is being transferred). The nice this
is that you can drill through the spar to mount your control stick
mounts, etc.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME fitting fore top skin and instrument panel
> ----------
> From: mcomeaux
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 1997 9:44 PM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: 6A QB
>
>
> Can one support the fuselage by the wood they insert
> for shipping or set it up on saw horses on blankets?
> When I say wood I mean where the spar goes through.
> Mike Comeaux 6A QB
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
> http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
> "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
> subject. |
> | ---
> |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
> |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Rick and Barbara Osgood wrote:
>
>
> I purchased a Wheelen Strobe power supply at OSH this year but decided
> to get the cable and connectors
> back in Minneapolis. As I am finding.... these molex connectors are not
> in any electronics stores, including
> the "Electronics Parts Suppliers". Does anyone have a source on these
> connectors???
>
> Thanks
> Rick Osgood
>
>
Rick,
Try Digi-Key. 1-800-344-4539 www.digikey.com.
Molex/Waldom
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)mailhost.avici.com> |
| Subject: | brazing question |
Listers,
I have a question about brazing. I want to braze
those little primer fittings to some pieces of copper
line. What kind of material do I use? Also, how hot
does it have to get? Can I use a propane torch or is
something more sophisticated necessary. I have never
brazed before so help is appreciated here.
Thanks in advance.
Cheryl Sanchez
csanchez(at)world.std.com
RV6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
The most effective filtering technique I've discovered is to a) create
seperate mailbox files for all of the mailing lists I'm on, b) create filters
to refile messages to those mailboxes. For example, I have one that looks for
"RV-List" in the subject line and it gets filed to the RV-List mailbox.
I soon realized that very little of the spam actually has my individual
address on it. So I created another mailbox file for my personal mail, and
set a filter to look for mauser(at)claris.com in the To: or CC: lines and refile
it there. Now that only thing that gets left in my normal in-box is the spam.
Just for fun, I decided that this month I would let it pile up and see just
how much I get. It's up to 85 right now, and it's only the 11th.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum bonding agent |
T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior Air Parts, O-360? +prop discussion |
>Good thing, though out of Sensencrich (again please, excuse spelling) folks
>was a metal prop spinner. $300.00 more, anodized and all per drilled to bolt
>on their props and all on the RV. Is it worth it?
>
The folks in the next hanger recently lost a spinner from their Bellanca
during take-off. The metal spinner bent the prop slightly and took out a
chunk of the cowling. I was wondering if the fiberglass RV spinner would
cause similar damage if it ever let go? kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <DougR(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MN RV-4 Accident |
Listers,
Right after this unfortunate accident I pulled up the rear seat in my -4
and made a casual inspection of the F-440 elev push tube. It appeared
strong and intact. Upon returning from OSH I learned of the discovery of
another -4 F-440 tube had been found with cracks. This caused me to
disassemble and Remove mine for a Dye penetrant check.
I previously mentioned that the previous inspection had been casual because
when I got it out of my airplane I discovered that mine was welded, This
puzzled me and I got a magnet and found that the builder of my airplane had
built F-440 and the one between the front and rear sticks out of -4130.
This pleased me.
I called to query why and to find if he had previously had a problem, He
had not but replied when he built it I just did not look heavy enough, so
he chose -4130.
The A&P who disassembled the wreckage is a friend as well and he described
the failure to a metals guy. It is his belief that it was a fatigue
failure. The NTSB has the failed tube and the cracked tube from the other
airplane. I spoke with Van at OSH and they were paying close attention to
this investigation.
I would not presume to recommend that anyone rush out and rebuild this tube
from -4130 and I fully understand that there is no definitive evidence
currently, to determine whether the failure of F-440 was caused by or the
cause of this accident. If however you are a friend of mine, I insist that
you pull F-440 out, dye check it and make absolutely sure that it does not
rub on any structure or bulkheads. Don't just look at it. The cracked one
looked fine! Get it dye checked! If you find out anything let Van and the
rest of us know.
I am certain that most will find nothing wrong, but if even one more
cracked tube is found and someone's life is spared, then Kosta's terrible
death will have served a useful purpose.
Please! and Thank you,
Doug Rozendaal N240
P.S. If you are considering airing this off, because you are busy or "that
won't happen to me," consider what it was like to be climbing at a near
vertical attitude, stall the airplane and try to recover from a stall with
trim walking the airplane down with the rudders in a falling leaf maneuver,
all of this below 300 ft. Go try to fly your bird around the patch with
the trim. Please! Check it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ShelbyRV6A(at)aol.com |
I just recently changed my E-Mail address because of all the junk mail.
Working great so far.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Try
Mouser - 1-800-34-MOUSER (Fax: 817-483-0931)
or
DigiKey- 1-800-344-4539
Finn
Rick and Barbara Osgood wrote:
>
>
> I purchased a Wheelen Strobe power supply at OSH this year but decided
> to get the cable and connectors
> back in Minneapolis. As I am finding.... these molex connectors are not
> in any electronics stores, including
> the "Electronics Parts Suppliers". Does anyone have a source on these
> connectors???
>
> Thanks
> Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Superior Air Parts, O-360? |
I e-mailed Superior this question about a month ago. The answer was:
"We hope to have the kits ready in about a year. (g)"
I'm not counting on this as a viable short term option.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Tool web page update |
> We do our entire catalog in house digitally, print a laser proof, and
> send the hard disk to the printing company. To convert to the pdf
> format we just "print" to the acrobat builder and upload the files to
> my server. In effect everyone has access to the catalog before the
> ups man picks up the disk to take it to the printer. (it may be the fed
> ex man next time). We have had many requests for pictures in our
> html. The pictures at the current resolution take up ~750meg. and
> with the time to convert them to lower res. and add to the html
> combined with cost of server space and number of pictures I don't see
> it as an option at this time. The text html version of the catalog
> will remain as always, but may take a few days to come up to date.
Ah, in which case it's prefectly reasonable, since the acrobat file IS meant
for both print and online. That is one of its strengths (call it "Cross-
Media" instead of "Cross-Platform"). The only reason I raised the issue in
the first place is because I've seen it abused before.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> Curt Reimer wrote:
> > Then reassemble the skirt and use a standard bit to drill though the > holes
in the outer skirt and plexi,
>
> Sounds like asking for trouble enlarging the hole in plexi with a normal
> bit?!
I don't mean use a larger bit; use a #40 on the outer skin, a number #40 plexi
drill on the plexi, and a $ 40 or 41
for the final hole. I used a #41 just to make sure I had a bit of clearance. The
final screw holes will be oversized,
so the tiny misalagnment you might get by using a #41 drill through a #40 pilot
hole really isn't a factor.
Drill the final clearance holes in the plexi with a larger plexi drill after disassembly.
BTW, I also welded on the small .040 steel tabs to help with the skirt alignment.
They work great, but be careful
when you backdrill through the skirts. Last night I managed to miss the wood block
when the drill popped through and
put a #40 hole into my left middle finger. It was painful and bloody.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Rob,
I have LCD displays in my RV-6A (tipup canopy) and have'nt
had any problems....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
apollo.hp.com!rimbold(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>
>> Does anyone have an option, either good or bad, about using vision
>> microsystems
>
>Has anyone ever had excess heat cause a problem with their electronic
>cockpit displays? I've seen cockpit heat blacken an LCD engine
>monitor until the cockpit temperature dropped (about 10 minutes after
>the canopy was tipped up).
>
>It's only for this reason that I'm leaning away from using electronic
>displays. I believe that gas plasma or LED displays won't have this
>problem. The Vision display is all LCD. Would anyone from Florida
>using one of these please comment?
>
>'Rob
>
>
>
>
> +--
> --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
>http://www.matronics.com |
> | ---
> |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
>"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
>subject. |
> | ---
> |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
> |
> +--
> --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Not happy w/vision microsystems |
I have had an EPI-800 system in my RV-6 since new (150 hours ago). I have had
nothing but trouble with the tach system. I'm on my second sensor and this
one is crapping out as well. VM's response...send us $350 more dollors (in
addition to the $2,600) and we will send you a tach that works better.
No thanks. I'll put in somebodys else's system before I give them any more
of my money. I'm going to try to have another tach attached to the EPI-800
tach face. (I'm using a Jeff Rose EI so I'll use his tach for $100).
Anybody got any ideas?
Oh, the internal battery died in my EPI CPU and I've lost all of my tach time
as well. Seems as though this is "normal" every two years!
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Superior Air Parts, O-360? +prop discussion |
<< I was wondering if the fiberglass RV spinner would
cause similar damage if it ever let go? >>
You bet! Prop, Cowling, etc. It happened to a Lancair I am aware of and it's
not pretty.
IMO make sure that they are properly attached to the front and rear bulkheads
and inspect them closely for continued structural integrity. Use large OD
countersunk washers with flat head screws or use Truss head screws. When you
remove them to inspect/service the prop hub, replace the fasteners. It's
cheap insurance.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AMP, not Molex, plugs |
<< As I am finding.... these Molex connectors are not
in any electronics stores, including the "Electronics Parts Suppliers". Does
anyone have a source on these connectors??? >>
Rick-
First off, they are AMP MATE-N-LOK connectors with .082" contacts. These
connectors can be confuddling because AMP also makes a Molex equivalent for
both .062" and .093" sizes. They appear similar to those not aware of their
differences, but the MATE-N-LOK connectors CANNOT be intermated (the contacts
or the housings) with Molex. You can get cable and connectors from Van's
(although Van's accessories catalog, too, erroneously refers to them as
"Molex" connectors).
It's a nit but, if Bill Benedict is lurking, perhaps he could take the
executive bull by the horns and correct the faux pas in the next iteration.
>From Van's: LN A441-3 for the 3 pin male contact version, LN A442-3 for the 3
pin female contact version (contacts are included.
If you bought them from an electronics house you would certainly need to buy
the housings and contacts separately as housings in bulk and continuous
feeding contacts on reels for automatic machines.
BTW, you must use proper crimping tools for these contacts in order to obtain
a reliable installation, particularly with the high tension circuits.
Consult fellow local chapter members and there should be someone with the
right equipment (Palladin makes a good one). You should also get Whelen's
installation instructions to ensure that you are wiring it up correctly.
They are notoriously intolerant of being connected up improperly (Can you
say $$$$?). Make sure to ground the cable shield drain wire at the power
supply end only.
Van's also has various length cable installation packages shown in their
on-line accessories catalog which is located at http://www.vansaircraft.com
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
If you were to check the FBI files you would probably find all RV builders
have fingerprints with Number 40 hole scars in them. Welcome to the club,
and be proud you made it to the canopy for your first.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: brazing question |
<< I want to braze
those little primer fittings to some pieces of copper
line. What kind of material do I use? Also, how hot
does it have to get? Can I use a propane torch or is
something more sophisticated necessary. I have never
brazed before so help is appreciated here. >>
Cheryl-
What you're proposing is okay but an improvement IMO would be to buy the 1/8"
stainless steel tubing (ACS P/N 03-16010) and silver solder them. This is
simply done using sand paper, a hand torch, the proper silver solder and a
S/S powder flux. This stuff is all available at a quality hardware store.
DO NOT use soft (tin-lead) solders. Be sure that you use stress relieving
loops (1.5-2.0" in diameter) at critical points in the routing.
I elected to use a S/S braided teflon hose assy (Earl's stuff done by Bowers
Performance in Livermore, CA) from the firewall mouted primer solenoid to an
aluminum tee mounted on the engine baffle stiffener angle. From the tee I
ran the S/S tubing to the primer fittings on the front two jugs. I think
this is quite adequate.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cracked Canopy part II
>
>>
>>Finn Lassen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Curt Reimer wrote:
>>> > Then reassemble the skirt and use a standard bit to drill though the >
holes in the outer skirt and plexi,
>>>
>>> Sounds like asking for trouble enlarging the hole in plexi with a normal
>>> bit?!
>>
>>I don't mean use a larger bit; use a #40 on the outer skin, a number #40
plexi drill on the plexi, and a $ 40 or 41
>>for the final hole. I used a #41 just to make sure I had a bit of
clearance. The final screw holes will be oversized,
>>so the tiny misalagnment you might get by using a #41 drill through a #40
pilot hole really isn't a factor.
>>
>>Drill the final clearance holes in the plexi with a larger plexi drill
after disassembly.
>>
>>BTW, I also welded on the small .040 steel tabs to help with the skirt
alignment. They work great, but be careful
>>when you backdrill through the skirts. Last night I managed to miss the
wood block when the drill popped through and
>>put a #40 hole into my left middle finger. It was painful and bloody.
>>
>>Curt
>>
>>hello curt
> in the future when drilling #40 holes in your fingers you can kill
the pain by immediately dropping your drill motor on your toe. i think the
problem of the mess caused by the bleeding might be solved by installing a
an426ad3-3.5 in the hole, a drop of crazy glue might help, although i have
not tried this as yet. i hope this helps you in the future.
>
>jim jewell - rv6a started 4/97 riveting spars. dreams do come true!.
>> +-- --+
>> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
>> | ---
|
>> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
>> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
>> | ---
|
>> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
>> +-- --+
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
>
>Finn Lassen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Curt Reimer wrote:
>> > Then reassemble the skirt and use a standard bit to drill though the >
holes in the outer skirt and plexi,
>>
>> Sounds like asking for trouble enlarging the hole in plexi with a normal
>> bit?!
>
>I don't mean use a larger bit; use a #40 on the outer skin, a number #40
plexi drill on the plexi, and a $ 40 or 41
>for the final hole. I used a #41 just to make sure I had a bit of
clearance. The final screw holes will be oversized,
>so the tiny misalagnment you might get by using a #41 drill through a #40
pilot hole really isn't a factor.
>
>Drill the final clearance holes in the plexi with a larger plexi drill
after disassembly.
>
>BTW, I also welded on the small .040 steel tabs to help with the skirt
alignment. They work great, but be careful
>when you backdrill through the skirts. Last night I managed to miss the
wood block when the drill popped through and
>put a #40 hole into my left middle finger. It was painful and bloody.
>
>Curt
>
>hello curt
in the future when drilling #40 holes in your fingers you can kill
the pain by immediately dropping your drill motor on your toe. i think the
problem of the mess caused by the bleeding might be solved by installing a
an426ad3-3.5 in the hole, a drop of crazy glue might help, although i have
not tried this as yet. i hope this helps you in the future.
jim jewell - rv6a started 4/97 riveting spars. dreams do come true!.
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> | --- |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting! |
> +-- --+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
I sold the headset that I posted on the list. If the sale falls through, I
have kept copies of the E-mails that I got from those who were too late and
will let you know if they become available again.
Thanks
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
>
> If you were to check the FBI files you would probably find all RV
builders
> have fingerprints with Number 40 hole scars in them. Welcome to the
club,
> and be proud you made it to the canopy for your first.
No kidding... I don't think I made it past the HS skeleton before I put a
hole in my finger. Mine's a #41 size though... once I poke myself with my
dimple die I'm sure it'll spread out to a #40. :-)
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033
Loveland, Colorado
Waiting on replacement parts--At least I _lost_ them this time instead of
messing something up! :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
>Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 09:13:32
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cracked Canopy part II
>
>>
>>Finn Lassen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Curt Reimer wrote:
>>> > Then reassemble the skirt and use a standard bit to drill though the >
holes in the outer skirt and plexi,
>>>
>>> Sounds like asking for trouble enlarging the hole in plexi with a normal
>>> bit?!
>>
>>I don't mean use a larger bit; use a #40 on the outer skin, a number #40
plexi drill on the plexi, and a $ 40 or 41
>>for the final hole. I used a #41 just to make sure I had a bit of
clearance. The final screw holes will be oversized,
>>so the tiny misalagnment you might get by using a #41 drill through a #40
pilot hole really isn't a factor.
>>
>>Drill the final clearance holes in the plexi with a larger plexi drill
after disassembly.
>>
>>BTW, I also welded on the small .040 steel tabs to help with the skirt
alignment. They work great, but be careful
>>when you backdrill through the skirts. Last night I managed to miss the
wood block when the drill popped through and
>>put a #40 hole into my left middle finger. It was painful and bloody.
>>
>>Curt
>>
>>hello curt
> in the future when drilling #40 holes in your fingers you can kill
the pain by immediately dropping your drill motor on your toe. i think the
problem of the mess caused by the bleeding might be solved by installing a
an426ad3-3.5 in the hole, a drop of crazy glue might help, although i have
not tried this as yet. i hope this helps you in the future.
>
>jim jewell - rv6a started 4/97 riveting spars. dreams do come true!.
>> +-- --+
>> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
>> | ---
|
>> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
|
>> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject.
|
>> | ---
|
>> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
>> +-- --+
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II - number drill sizes |
Hi all,
I thought a #41 was *SMALLER* than a #40?
> for the final hole. I used a #41 just to make sure I had a bit of clearance.
I wonder if the difference in a single number is enough clearance?
By the way, in several places Van's says to use a #12 drill with 3/16 inch bolts
for a snugger fit. Isn't a #12 actually larger than a 3/16?
Hal Kempthorne OSHKOSH! Got some good inspiration.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
I thought I might mention that the Annual Antique Airplane Fly-in at Evergreen
Field (Vancouver Washington) will be held this weekend.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
Hi gang:
I'm looking into the various gear reduction units that are available
for my installation.
Can somebody who has there lycoming engine mounted tell be how long it
is from the firewall to the front face of the prop hub. Both for the
constant speed and the fixed pitch.
What would be the longest distance that the stock cowling would allow?
thanks in advance, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Molex plugs - where to find |
Here in Silicon Valley, they are in the grocery stores...
or at least in many 'puter stores.
If you can't find what you need, let me know.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
> back in Minneapolis. As I am finding.... these molex connectors are not
> in any electronics stores, including
> the "Electronics Parts Suppliers". Does anyone have a source on these
> connectors???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II - number drill sizes |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I thought a #41 was *SMALLER* than a #40?
>
> > for the final hole. I used a #41 just to make sure I had a bit of clearance.
>
> I wonder if the difference in a single number is enough clearance?
I used a #41 to drill the inner skirt using the previously drilled #40 hole in
the plexiglas as a pilot hole. I was worried
that a #40 bit might get caught in the plexi hole and cause a crack. Probably overkill.
I don't trust
plexi until it has been counter sunk and deburred. Sharp edges are where cracks
can start. For this reason
be extra careful handling the canopy with raw cut edges or unchamfered holes.
After disassembly, I drilled the final screw clearance holes, countersunk, dimpled,
etc.
BTW, thanks to those who welcomed me into the "#40 hole drilled finger" club.
I am also a new member of the
"broke a 6-32 tap while doing the rollbar" association.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II |
RodWoodard wrote:
>
>
> >
> > If you were to check the FBI files you would probably find all RV
> builders
> > have fingerprints with Number 40 hole scars in them. Welcome to the
> club,
> > and be proud you made it to the canopy for your first.
>
> No kidding... I don't think I made it past the HS skeleton before I put a
> hole in my finger. Mine's a #41 size though... once I poke myself with my
> dimple die I'm sure it'll spread out to a #40. :-)
Actually, its my second time (same finger). Its interesting how you end up with
these little
cylindrical lumps of scar tissue. An amazing thing, the human body...
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lundquist" <DLUNDQUIST(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | LI-NY area projects |
Looking to get in touch with anyone currently building or flying an RV-6 in
the Long Island New York area. I am strongly considering beginning an RV-6
project and would like to see both a work in progress and/or a finished
plane.
David Lundquist, RV-6 Preview Plans
dlundquist(at)worldnet.att.net
6A Mills Rd
Stony Brook, NY 11790
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: brazing question |
I want to braze
>those little primer fittings to some pieces of copper
>line. What kind of material do I use? Also, how hot
>does it have to get? Can I use a propane torch or is
Cheryl;
If you are talking about the little nib/ball type fitting that a nut then
fits over, mine were not brazed. Instead they were soldered to the copper
tube. They had come off of a Piper Tomahawk.
I did change the tubing. Just heated then up, popped them off, cleaned up,
and soldered onto new tubing.
A lot easier than brazing.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounting bracket |
I also had to grind off about 1/4 inch from the top corner. My wing kit was
put out about a month after they began producing the prepunched skins.
Bob Tinnell
Salem OR
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Stiffeners on Rudder |
I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on rudder. They
say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
to the george tape it he says so the stiffeners won't
make contact. But if you do as the manual says and
compress the rudder together it looks to me like it will.
Can someone clear this for me? RV6A......
Mike Comeaux-------mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy part II - (chatter) |
> I am also a new member of the
> "broke a 6-32 tap while doing the rollbar" association.
What? Only one? I'll talk to you when you join me on the pro circuit.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Stiffeners on Rudder |
charset="iso-8859-1"
You trim the trailing ends of the stiffeners at an angle. Trim them
enough so that they overlap but don't touch even when you squeeze the
trailing edge of the rudder into final shape.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Still waiting for the fuselage kit RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
From: mcomeaux [SMTP:cmc.net!mcomeaux(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 1:30 AM
To: RV-List
Subject: RV-List: Stiffeners on Rudder
I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on
rudder. They
say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
to the george tape it he says so the stiffeners won't
make contact. But if you do as the manual says and
compress the rudder together it looks to me like it will.
Can someone clear this for me? RV6A......
Mike Comeaux-------mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
+--
--+
| Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at
http://www.matronics.com |
| ---
|
| To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
| & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text
or subject. |
| ---
|
| Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup
posting! |
+--
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wheaton <dwheaton(at)csi.com> |
After I built up the front spar in the HS, I noticed that three of the four
rivet holes through the HS 610 (smaller aluminum angle) on each of the spar
tongues do not have the proper 2D edge distance (1/4"). The worst case
edge distance is 1/16" shy of the 2D required. I cut only enough of the
flange of the spar to get rid of the bend and then centered the 614 and 610
on the spar with the proper 3 and 1/4" spacing. I also made sure that the
614 and 610 did not protrude above the spar flanges. Anyway, that's how I
did it and now I don't have the proper edge distance on the 610.
Has anyone done this? And what did you do about it. Redo?
Dave Wheaton
rv6 Rosamond, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Stiffeners on Rudder |
To add to Steves answer...
The stiffeners overlap so that during the process of finishing the traili=
ng
edge bend they will not contact the skin, putting a ding in it. =
Scott A. Jordan
80331
elevators about done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Young <gyoung(at)net1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stiffeners on Rudder |
mcomeaux wrote:
>
> I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on rudder. They
> say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
> to the george tape it he says so the stiffeners won't
> make contact. But if you do as the manual says and
> compress the rudder together it looks to me like it will.
> Can someone clear this for me? RV6A......
It's a whole lot easier to see in a diagram than to describe. You'll
need to view this character picture using a fixed pitch font.
----+--+
|
| |
| |
|
+--+---
For description purposes, call the flanges with the rivet holes the
horizontal flange, and the non-riveted one the vertical flange. You want
the stiffeners to "nest" with one vertical flange on the left of the
rivet line and the other on the right of the rivet line. The offset
means to position the vertical flanges with a gap about 1/8" less (not
critical) than the width of the horizontal flange (3/4"). This allows
the vertical flanges to hit the horizontal flange of the opposite
stiffener (rather than the skin) if pressed together.
Greg Young
Citabria N90AV
RV-6 s/n 23070 fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stiffeners on Rudder |
<< I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on rudder. They
say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
to the george tape it he says so the stiffeners won't
make contact. But if you do as the manual says and
compress the rudder together it looks to me like it will.
The stiffeners will and should touch when you close the bend at the trailing
edge. If they don't overlap, you will have a row of bumps where the
stiffeners did touch the inside of the skin. Most dissappointing. Also, you
may find that you need to shape the rear edge of the stiffeners to a finer
point than is called out. Don't forget to put in some sort of RTV where the
stiffeners meet at the trailing edge before you close the rudder & elevators.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stiffeners on Rudder |
mcomeaux wrote:
>
>
> I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on rudder. They
> say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
> to the george tape it he says so the stiffeners won't
> make contact. But if you do as the manual says and
> compress the rudder together it looks to me like it will.
> Can someone clear this for me? RV6A......
Mike:
The stiffeners should be far enough offset so they don't rub when you
bring the two skins together, something like this:
________________________ sin
________
|
|stiffener
|
|
stiffener|
|_______
___________________________ skin
DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stiffeners on Rudder |
mcomeaux wrote:
>
> I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on rudder.
> They
> say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
> to the george tape it he says so the stiffeners won't
> make contact. But if you do as the manual says and
> compress the rudder together it looks to me like it will.
> Can someone clear this for me? RV6A......
>
> Mike Comeaux-------mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
>
>
Mike, The stiffeners will definitely hit the other side while making the
final bend in the trailing edge. I guess it really depends on if you
made the stiffeners to plan 1/8" thick (I think it was)at the trailing
edge. When making the TE bend I had to over bend quite a bit so when it
sprung back it matched the spar.
Greg,
RV8-80081
rv8er(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
(Slow day on the list)
Curt, I'm concerned about your recently drilled finger. You darn kids are
taking this body piercing thing way too far. You did of course allow for
proper edge clearance between the quick and the bone. If you plan to
countersink that finger make sure you anchor the pilot head securely in the
bone, wouldn't want to elongate. I personally recomend you countersink all
appendages, it makes a handy dimple guage for future refrences. By the way
I've heard rumors that spring back dimple dies allow for faster healing -
hence the name.
Buck up ole bud, at least you didn't do it drilling the spar, of course that
would make for a handy place to keep your screwdriver.
Eric Henson
Waiting for UPS to bring my tank goodies.
>>>BTW, thanks to those who welcomed me into the "#40 hole drilled finger"
club.
>>> Curt
--+
|
|
|
|
|
|
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stiffeners on Rudder |
>I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on rudder. They
>say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
Think 'offset' instead of 'overlap'. If you offset the stiffeners slightly
in what will be the rudder's vertical direction, what will be the
stiffener's horizontal surfaces on each side of the rudder will not touch
each other. You do have to trim the aft end of the stiffeners as shown in
the plans to keep that part of the stiffener from hitting the opposite inner
surface of the rudder skin where it is narrow at the trailing edge. Too
little offset and the stiffeners will interfere with each other, a little
too much and you may have interference between a stiffener and the opposing
stiffener's rivet shop heads. There is some leeway either way beyond the
1/8th inch specified.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>
>receiving
>>a lot of junk E-mail? Are these people pulling our addresses off of the
>>list or, is it because I posted a couple of times to a couple of newsgroups.
>
>Bob;
>
>I would suspect from a source other than the list. I haven't received any
>except that one to the list about a month ago. I'm not involved with any
>newsgroups since 1) I don't know how and 2) my local provider doesn't
>support/provide a newsgroup service.
>John Darby RV6 sold
>Stephenville TX
>johnd@our-town.com
John,
The spam kind of died off as quick as it started. Funny thing, the last
spam I received was for a program to eliminate spam. Don't suppose the
whole thing was a set up to sell an anti-spam program?
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eprth(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
| Subject: | Re: HS Forward Spar |
>
Re: the HS Front Spar measuring problems.
Have a look at "Bunny's Guide to building an RV"
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny.htm. He discusses the same problem you
have I think under part !: "A Bunny's Tail -- The Empennage"
Tim Houle
Thinking about building rv6
Three Hills, Alberta
***************************
Tim Houle
email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eprth(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
Are there any builders in Alberta, Canada
Please reply to eprth(at)kneehill.com
Tim Houle
Three Hills, Alberta
***************************
Tim Houle
email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ride to homecoming |
I'm seeking a ride from the Austin Tx. area to the homecoming. Prefer a -4
ride, as I'm building one, but beggers can't..... Will obviously share
expenses.
Please e-mail me off list or call 512-328-3631 days or 512-892-8895 eves.
Thanks!
Greg Hughes RV-4 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | Cracked Canopy part II |
"> in the future when drilling #40 holes in your fingers you can
kill
the pain by immediately dropping your drill motor on your toe. i think
the
problem of the mess caused by the bleeding might be solved by installing
a
an426ad3-3.5 in the hole, a drop of crazy glue might help"
Actually, 3M makes a special high strength tape to cover wounds like
this but it isn't certified so I wouldn't go "experimenting" around with
it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Solana" <solanas(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Cracked Canopy part II |
Now let's hear from wives or other family members with Number 40 hole
scars.... how many have unwittingly responded to "could you help me for
just a few minutes?" and wound up with a scar of RV honor?!! It makes for a
nice IOU !
----------
> > If you were to check the FBI files you would probably find all RV
> builders
> > have fingerprints with Number 40 hole scars in them. Welcome to the
> club,
> > and be proud you made it to the canopy for your first.
>
> No kidding... I don't think I made it past the HS skeleton before I put a
> hole in my finger. Mine's a #41 size though... once I poke myself with my
> dimple die I'm sure it'll spread out to a #40. :-)
Actually, its my second time (same finger). Its interesting how you end up
with these little
cylindrical lumps of scar tissue. An amazing thing, the human body...
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L & M Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Forward Spar |
Hi Dave,
Did the same thing!!! Ordered new pieces from and built again.
Regards Les Rowles.
Les Rowles
Po Box 1895
Traralgon
Australia 3844
lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Costello <bcos(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stiffeners on Rudder |
mcomeaux wrote:
>
>
> I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on rudder. They
> say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
> to the george tape it he says so the stiffeners won't
> make contact. But if you do as the manual says and
> compress the rudder together it looks to me like it will.
> Can someone clear this for me? RV6A......
>
> Mike Comeaux-------mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
>
Mike, I think you want to overlap the stifferers so that, if they make
contact, they do so with the opposite stiffener and not the opposite
skin, where they would make a nasty crease. Hope I can diagram below.
_________
|
|__________
Make sense?
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Cell Tech Ind Dist SBGA 800-325-7544
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ciolino <jbc1(at)ziplink.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator leading edge |
Listers:
I have completed rolling the leading edge of the elevator. Are the rivet
holes for the pop rivets dimpled? I can't find anything in the plans or
George's video which say one way or another.
TIA
John Ciolino RV-8
jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roy Epperson <roye(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Contacts in the San Francisco Bay Area |
My wife and I are relocating back to the Bay Area and considering
building a -6/6A once we get settled in.
I see a bunch of finished -6s but have not had an opportunity to fly in
one. I'm looking for someone who would be willing to take us for a test
flight ( I know one of us at a time!).
Thanks in advance,
Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stiffeners on Rudder |
| From: | "William H. Watson" <watson1(at)alink.net> |
>I'm a little confussed as to the directions on stiffeners on rudder. They
>say to overlap by a 1/8 inch and according
>to the george tape it he says so the stiffeners won't
>make contact. But if you do as the manual says and
>compress the rudder together it looks to me like it will.
>Can someone clear this for me? RV6A......
It can be confusing. If you make all the stiffners the same and in pairs
(i.e., the 6" slopes to the right on each, same length), and if you
layout their location with the lines offset by 1/8 inch, per the
instructions, on the top and bottom skin, then they would have the raised
edge touching the flat, on the opposite side, of the other skin (and
vis-versa). Neither would actually touch the skin. This is for handling;
once installed with the skeleton they will not touch.
Here is the catch: IMHO, their is only one way to position the 1/8 off
set. I did it wrong and it wasn't working. I erased the lines and made
the 1/8 offset on the other skin and all was well.
Hope I didn't make it worse....
Bill Watson
RV-6A
Emp almost finished
Wings in the boxes
William H. Watson
watson1(at)alink.net
H: 415 254-1656
W: 408 553-4225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 part C603, DWG 51
The sideview on this drawing show two rows of rivets along the length of
this piece. One at the bottom, and one at the top (through the canopy).
Section A-A on the same drawing show three rows of rivets along the
length.
Which is correct? or perhaps I am not seeing this correctly.
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
You can add some extra rivets with the correct edge distance between the ones
that are too close.
Les
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of David Wheaton
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 6:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: HS Forward Spar
After I built up the front spar in the HS, I noticed that three of the four
rivet holes through the HS 610 (smaller aluminum angle) on each of the spar
tongues do not have the proper 2D edge distance (1/4"). The worst case
edge distance is 1/16" shy of the 2D required. I cut only enough of the
flange of the spar to get rid of the bend and then centered the 614 and 610
on the spar with the proper 3 and 1/4" spacing. I also made sure that the
614 and 610 did not protrude above the spar flanges. Anyway, that's how I
did it and now I don't have the proper edge distance on the 610.
Has anyone done this? And what did you do about it. Redo?
Dave Wheaton
rv6 Rosamond, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator leading edge |
John,
My plans (RV-6a) show to use an AD-41-ABS pop rivet which doesn't need a
dimpled hole.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
RV-6a waiting on wings
Phoenix, AZ
>
>Listers:
>
>I have completed rolling the leading edge of the elevator. Are the rivet
>holes for the pop rivets dimpled? I can't find anything in the plans or
>George's video which say one way or another.
>
>TIA
>
>
>
>
>John Ciolino RV-8
>jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +--
--+
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | a room with a view |
free guest room available to a builder and friend with a view of downtown
Portland (well, in the winter with no leaves). I live in Ladd's Addition in
near SE and will be driving out to the fly-in. kevin 6A-taxiing:=) top O/H :=(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Glenn,
I'm not sure which is correct, but I kept it to the two fastener
row version (the top row - through the plexi - is actually #6 screws into a
plastic retainer strip, not rivets).
There is a good reason .... If you only have one row of rivets
holding the canopy skirt to the canopy frame, then it's quite easy to use
small shims (or a tapered shim strip) inbetween these two parts. This
shim(s) allows for a simple adjustment to make the edge of the canopy skirt
fit really smoothly with the top 'corner' of the cockpit side rails. In my
case, this was quite essential at the aft 2 to 3 inches of the canopy frame.
Two rows of rivets would be extremely difficult to shim, since
the upper canopy frame joggle size, and the variable plexiglas thickness
come into play.
A nice fit here really makes the tip-up canopies look good, a
poor fit looks %^&%^%$! ...
.... hope this makes sense .... Gil (one rivet row) Alexander
>
>Hi,
>
>RE: RV-6 part C603, DWG 51
>
>The sideview on this drawing show two rows of rivets along the length of
>this piece. One at the bottom, and one at the top (through the canopy).
>
>Section A-A on the same drawing show three rows of rivets along the
>length.
>
>Which is correct? or perhaps I am not seeing this correctly.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Glenn Gordon
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PAUL_ROSALES(at)prodigy.com (MR PAUL A ROSALES) |
| Subject: | Toyota Cup Holder |
-- [ From: Paul A. Rosales * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] --
I stopped by the Toyota dealer to check out the sliding cup/can holder
that's been discussed. It measures about 1.25"H X 7.5"L X 6" deep and
not much weight to it (ounces). Part number for the dual slider is
55620-89101 and price quoted was $49.23. Thanks to all for the engine
information.
Paul Rosales,
RV-6A N628PV, fuselage coming out of the jig this week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finger Drilling |
Henson, Eric wrote:
>
> (Slow day on the list)
>
> Curt, I'm concerned about your recently drilled finger. You darn kids are
> taking this body piercing thing way too far. You did of course allow for
> proper edge clearance between the quick and the bone. If you plan to
> countersink that finger make sure you anchor the pilot head securely in the
> bone, wouldn't want to elongate. I personally recomend you countersink all
> appendages, it makes a handy dimple guage for future refrences. By the way
> I've heard rumors that spring back dimple dies allow for faster healing -
> hence the name.
Ok, I have to know: what is the proper drilling technique for flesh and
bone? I'd hate to drill a finger only to have the part crack. Are
there special speeds? Bits? Is there a publication to cover this? Oh,
almost forgot, what are the approved swear words?
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Toyota Cup Holder |
Toyota sliding cup/can holder
>that's been discussed. It measures about 1.25"H X 7.5"L X 6" deep and
>not much weight to it (ounces). Part number for the dual slider is
>55620-89101 and price quoted was $49.23. Thanks to all for the engine
>information.
>
>Paul Rosales,
Paul;
You may want to check the junk yards. My 87 Dakota pick up had a dual cup
holder in it that is very similar to my 97 Toyota. Maybe a little larger.
If there are many pick ups in your area, then certainly by now there are
some in the yards, and maybe the price much lower.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator leading edge |
The rivits on the leading edge of the empennage at not flat head pop rivets
so therefore are not dimpled. You will not see them when installed.
>
>Listers:
>
>I have completed rolling the leading edge of the elevator. Are the rivet
>holes for the pop rivets dimpled? I can't find anything in the plans or
>George's video which say one way or another.
>
>TIA
>
>
>
>
>John Ciolino RV-8
>jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> | --- |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting! |
> +-- --+
>
>
Richard E. Bibb Direct: 301-571-2507
Vice President, Federal Operations Main: 301-564-4404
Fore Systems Federal, Inc. FAX: 301-564-4408
6905 Rockledge Drive, #800 Pager: 800-719-1246
Bethesda, MD 20817 www.fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KOZINSKI GARY <kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling holes/fingers |
Drilling holes in your fingers can be avoided by always using a block of
wood on the back side of the hole. Use the wood in the same fashion that
you use a bucking bar. Pick up some scrap hardwood and cut them into
small blocks. You will find that not only do you save your fingers but
the resultant hole is much cleaner. Using the wood is a good habit to
get into.
Gary RV-6 s/n 20038 Final Assy. less engine and inst.
I'm in NY, Project in MA, No holes in fingers...yet.
kozinski(at)symbol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Contacts in the San Francisco Bay Area |
<< My wife and I are relocating back to the Bay Area and considering
building a -6/6A once we get settled in.
I see a bunch of finished -6s but have not had an opportunity to fly in
one. I'm looking for someone who would be willing to take us for a test
flight >>
Roy-
There is a lot of RV activity going on in the bay area from Silicon Gulch to
Concord, Petaluma to Tracy. This covers some area. There are many different
builders groups and all the EAA chapters at their respective airports have RV
builders in their ranks. My guess would be that there are at least 20 flying
RV-6/6As, 30 or so RV-4s and a few RV-3/3As that I am aware of.
At LVK (Chapter 663) we have 4 flying RV-6/6As, 5 flying RV-4s and about a
dozen 6/6A and 4s in various phases of construction. My own RV-6A is nearing
completion. Most of these builders are not on the RV-List.
Once you settle in a particular area you can be sure that there are RVs
nearby.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAGPADDLES(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Preparation |
Rob,
I am also using variprime. The man at Norfolk Paint said that he could
sell me $50 worth of cleaning/prep stuff but all that was really necessary
was a good naptha based cleaner. He recommended 3M General Purpose Adhesive
Cleaner and so far it has worked great on both steel parts and Al. I'll
probably get shot in the face here by our more "anal" brethren but so far the
cheap and easy solution has worked for me. :>) >Putting on my fire retardent
Nomex flight suit and HELMET w/ visor down<
Semper
Fly
Jim Brown
RV-6 fwd emp spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAGPADDLES(at)aol.com |
Chris,
There is probably more than you could ever want to know in the archives about
compressors. Mine has a 6.5 horse 220v motor driving a 10.5cfm @ 90 psi
compressor. It is a twin cylinder, oil lubed DeVilbiss, and has a 20 gal
tank. It cost around $350 and so far has been trouble free. Mine is much
larger than the min requirement. I think most folks on the list might advise
you to stay away from the
"oil free" compressors mainly because they are very noisy. Hope this helps.
Jim Brown
Va Beach
-6 Vert Stab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Archives - Matte Dralle |
Matt:
I have been giving this some thought for some time now. After three or
four years, the RV-list archives have got to be getting huge. I enjoy the
light hearted bantor and responses to various topics but after a couple of
days, I doubt whether the information they contain would have any value to
any future builder. Saving all responses to the RV-list renders the archives
less effective. For example (not picking on anyone, I like to laugh too!) If
I were to look up "Cracked canopies" I'ld find quite a few responses from
people who accidently drilled into their fingers or their spouses appendages.
Would it be possible to edit the archives? I noticed that many times the
subject matter doesn't relate to the response. The subject line is mispelled
and therefore would not turn up in a data search. Postings related to dated
timely events such as flyins probably do not need to be permanently saved.
Looking for rides or Oshkosh housing etc. Does it make sense to store the
same answer three or four times? I have noticed many posts that include the
whole non-edited previous post along with a response.
I am willing to offer my time and energy going forward to review and edit
the responses to be stored in the data base on a weekly or monthly basis. I
would however suggest a team approach if possible. I don't want to impose my
perspective on everyone. The policy I would suggest is when in doubt, leave
it in the data base. Perhaps a team of experienced RV4,RV6, RV6A, and RV8
builders could be recruited to participate. Hopefully the torch could be
pased from individual to individual from time to time. (Suggest every four to
six months) The past archives would represent quite a challenge to review. I
believe editing the archives would make all the difference in the world
between tons of data and useful information. I am willing to bet the
archives can be compressed 75% of their present size and actually be more
useful to the end user. As a side note, what is the status of the CD rom
archive disks?
I don't know how the mechanics of this would work, but I ask that you
give it some thought. Perhaps others on the list can suggest a better
approach.
Since I would insist on having competent people perform this task, I
submit my qualifications and background for your consideration:
My daytime employment is as the Chief Operating Officer for Ridgewood
Power Corp. Ridgewood is a small private placement investment firm that
specializes in the Independant Power Industry. We also have substantial
holdings in the oil and gas field.
BS Mechanical Engineering, MBA finance, Professional Engineer - PA
Computer literate
CFIA Land, Multi, Instru - 1000 hours
Qualified machinist - Have complete machine shop in my work area.
Assembled two BD-5's back in the 70's to the point of engine
installation. Decided I enjoyed living too much to complete them.
Present project is an RV4. Fuselage in the jig being skinned.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Trimming the archive |
>
> Would it be possible to edit the archives?
> ...
> Since I would insist on having competent people perform this
task...
This is a great idea. You wouldn't even need totally qualified people
to help edit the database, just some good guidelines. This is because
you
don't want to edit out information you think is wrong, you are just
editing
out non-relevant or redundant messages and headers/footers. I'd
imagine
you would always leave in someone's opinion because it is interesting to
see
how someone else is doing something and how many are doing it a certain
way.
But messages like these, kill 'em!
I'd be willing to edit a chunk.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME fitting fore top skin and instrument panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Dixon <sdixon(at)jet.laker.net> |
| Subject: | Tank Dimple Dies |
Hello Listers
I have a set of Cleveland Tool tank dimple dies. (For those that don't
know, these dies make the dimple a few thousandths deeper to allow for
the Pro Seal.) My question, to those that have used them before, did you
dimple the skin and interior parts or just the interior parts? It seems
to me that if there is no Pro Seal on the rivet head, just on the inside
parts and the rivet shank, that dimpling the skin with tank dies would
make the dimple too deep. Does this make any sence?
If you have used them before, please let me know what you did and how
you liked the results.
Thanks
Steve Dixon
RV-8 Left Tank
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
sdixon(at)laker.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan <Jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Leading edge on elevators |
I have just finished bending the leading edge on the right hand
elevator. I am not relay satisfied with the finished result. Not
wanting to clutter up the list with a picture would someone out there
who has seen a lot of leading edges mind having a lock at mine ??
I would e-mail you a few picture direct for a second opinion
--
Jan RV6 builder in England
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | new rv fuel tank sealant |
have not seen any info on list about the new tank sealant shown in vans
september 1996 accessories catalog, any info would be appreciated, i am
ready to assemble my fuel tanks.
finishing rv-4 wings
wayne bonesteel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore"<dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
Glenn Gordon asked about C-603:
I assume you are building a tip-up - if not, disregard this.
There is a discrepancy in the drawing (surprise!). I used 2 rows of rivets
(or should I say, 2 holes - I haven't riveted yet). They are staggered at
2 in. intervals, rows a little less than 1 in apart, and connect the side
skin to the canopy frame. There is a third row on top which plasses thru
the side skin, canopy, canopy frame, and plastic bar - but this is for #6
screws, not rivets. The point that may be causing confusion is where the
canopy frame side rail overlaps the frame forward piece (weldment).
chocolatetruffles.com!glenn(at)matronics.com on 08/13/97 09:35:24 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV6 C-603
RE: RV-6 part C603, DWG 51
The sideview on this drawing show two rows of rivets along the length of
this piece. One at the bottom, and one at the top (through the canopy).
Section A-A on the same drawing show three rows of rivets along the
length.
Which is correct? or perhaps I am not seeing this correctly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen" <clevtool(at)tdsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Dies |
Dimple the skins as well as the substructure. We wanted the pro seal to
squish out between the rivet and the skin to allow for that much more
sealing surface. Just wipe the excess off with thinner while it is still
wet. The tank dies have another useful purpose. Most people have noticed
that the dimple in the skin does not nest with the dimple in the
substructure perfectly. For the most part this is corrected when the rivet
is set, but a few people have had special substructure dies made. The
substructure dies are about .010" deeper to make them nest correctly, the
tank dies are .007" deeper to make the rivets perfectly flush with the pro
seal under them. Keeping this in mind, you may want to use the tank dies
for the rest of the substructure as well as for the tanks.
Thanks,
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
1-800-368-1822
clevtool(at)tdsi.net
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
>
> I have a set of Cleveland Tool tank dimple dies. (For those that don't
> know, these dies make the dimple a few thousandths deeper to allow for
> the Pro Seal.) My question, to those that have used them before, did you
> dimple the skin and interior parts or just the interior parts? It seems
> to me that if there is no Pro Seal on the rivet head, just on the inside
> parts and the rivet shank, that dimpling the skin with tank dies would
> make the dimple too deep.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Dies |
Steve,
I havent quite gotten there yet, but Mike at Cleaveland told me to do both.
He said that just enough pro seal will ooze up between the rivet head and
the skin that if you dont use the tank die on your skins also, the rivet
head will protrude slightly. I'll let you know for sure shortly.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings; tanks this coming weekend)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
My question, to those that have used them before, did you
>dimple the skin and interior parts or just the interior parts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
>
> Has anyone ever had excess heat cause a problem with their electronic
> cockpit displays? I've seen cockpit heat blacken an LCD engine
> monitor until the cockpit temperature dropped (about 10 minutes after
> the canopy was tipped up).
>
I'd also be interested in anyone's experience with operating
LCDs in very cold weather. I've had the disply on my wrist
watch go blank when skiing in very cold weather. Does anyone
know what the minimum-temperature limit for the Vision LCD
display is?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
| Subject: | Handling Primer w/ease |
I got this idea from Ed Cole. I've passed this along privately to a few
people as they start their projects, and everyone loves it, so I'll post
it.
Buy a couple large plastic bottles of your favorite bottled water
(evion, crystal springs, etc.), but make sure you get one with the pull
top. After you've emptied the bottle, use it for your primer.
No more hassle with cleaning up cans/spills, dipping cups, stirring rods
and lids that won't seal. Just shake it up good and squirt into the
airbrush container. It makes measuring a breeze, and it' all so fast.
Hope this helps a few of you out!
EB #80131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Union Hydraulics" <unionhyd(at)s140.aone.net.au> |
| Subject: | trim/throttle cables |
Does anyone know how to remove the ball from the Van's vernier
trim/throttle cable to make it operate smoother??
Alan Chappelow
Empennage complete in 134 hours
Waiting for wing kit next week
Question is for another RV-6 owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jdelveau6(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Dies |
Steve-
I finished my tanks about 2 months ago using the tank dies on both skin
and structure. The results are very good! Seems like the head of the
rivet comes out flush to meet the surface of the skin as it is set with
proseal in between. A dry fit of the rivet in the skin looks really deep
but they set great. I made sure there was proseal oozing out around the
rivet BEFORE I set it. Be sure to clean the proseal off the outside of
the skin as soon as you have finished setting all the rivets.
-Jim D. (RV-6 One wing finished, mounting the control surfaces on the
other)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new rv fuel tank sealant |
I talked to the A&P/IA at our local FBO about tank sealing. He worked for a
while on the King Air Citation class hardware. He came by my shop and looked
at the tank structure. He suggested Proseal C20 for the faying surface
(between the parts) sealant and the B2 for filet sealing. I talked to
Courtaulds the maker of Proseal and their rep sent me a stack of data on
their products. C20 is a thinner sealant that sets in roughly 20 hours and is
intended for sealing between parts.
Has anyone used used this approach?
Courtaulds can be reached at 800-237-6649. I have the spec sheets on B2 and
C20 sealants. They also recommended buying the stuff in the ready to mix
tubes to ensure the proper amount of the 2 components. I'm told a regular
hardware store caulking gun will work with the sealant tubes.
Mike Talley
skinning the left wing - RV-6 - gonna seal both tanks at once
Arlington, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau +1 +1 732 957 6611) |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming the archive |
Matt,
I'd also be willing to edit a reasonable amount monthly for a few
months until the archive was pared down. Using Unix tools like sed and
awk, once the programs were written it would be fairly easy to remove
the repetitive text....even a lot of the header information not needed
for content value.
Paul M. Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
732-957-6611
RV-6A Empennage
Front Spar Almost Done...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Anyone with a tip type canopy on the 6....The plan (#39) shows the F632B
attach angle on top of the F632A channel. To attach the Channel to the F606
bulk head.
It appears that the plan calls for the rivets to go thru the F674 aft top
fuselage skin, a shim, the F606 flange, the F632B angle and finally thru the
F632A Channel.
If you follow me is this correct thus far?
If that is correct that would rivet almost thru the inside radius of
the F632B angle, in order to get edge distance on the F606 flange. Which
doesn't seem right to me.
Is the above the way you all have done it? Have I missed the point
here? And/or is there a better suggestion?
Bill B. must be gone cause I ask earlier up at Van's net...and nothing came
back, and he always pops right back.
Anyway Thanks!
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Leading edge on elevators |
Jan,
Can't say that I have looked closely at a lot of leading edges but maybe =
I
can help.
You didn't say what your problem is but since I just finished my leading
edges this morning I bet I have a good guess!
I had trouble getting a good bend so that the pieces would lay flat. Whe=
n
riveted together, the skin would lift between the rivets giving a scallop=
ed
appearance. The solution was two fold. I origionally used a broom handl=
e
to curve the edges as described in the manual. The handle is about 1"
diameter. The manual suggests a 1/2" pipe for this purpose. After my
first attempt, I decided to spend $6 on a piece of 1/2" conduit. This
allowed a much tighter bend and a better fit. The tighter radius near th=
e
tips still was not to my liking though, a little hand forming helped a bi=
t
here as well.
Step two was to use a few extra rivets. Putting a rivet where the skin
lifted pulled it in nicely, I did this to about the outer third of the
rudder and elevators. These rivets could also be put closer to the edge =
to
hold it tighter if you don't mind the rivets being staggered. Remember,
nobody will see th any of this unless they are looking real close. =
Probably to see if you got a smooth leading edge and if so how because th=
ey
had the same problem. Can't take all the credit, another builder
suggested the extra rivets.
All in all, I don't know that it is really necesary to have a perfectly
flush leading edge but those scallops looked like they were putting
pressure on cheap pop rivets. Now I feel the load is being distributed
better and am not worried about the rivets popping loose. My wife has be=
en
kidding me about the extra weight though!
Hope this is of some help to you. Are you any where near London? I'll
have a day off over there on the 26th.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ
elevator fitting tomorrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming the archive |
sagenttech.com!mfaatz(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> > Would it be possible to edit the archives?
> > ...
> > Since I would insist on having competent people perform this
> task...
>
> This is a great idea. You wouldn't even need totally qualified people
>
> to help edit the database, just some good guidelines. This is because
>
> you
> don't want to edit out information you think is wrong, you are just
> editing
> out non-relevant or redundant messages and headers/footers.
Good idea.
But it's a big job; I estimate 32MB from Matt's WWW site, which roughly
equates to 32,000 A4 pages. At 1 minute per page, that's about 500 hours
of work. If we got 50 people to volunteer, it'd be 10 hours each which
seems OK to me.
B F Gibbon's search engine is available which requires the archive to be
on your own machine. That's fine, except that the archive is 11MB
compressed, and you can't add to it. If someone was to work on this a
little, it'd be great.
Better yet would be to split the archive according to the sub-kit (Emp,
Wings, Fus, Fin) or component (HS, VS, Rudder, Engine, Instruments,
etc). If we could be rigorous in our use of these things in the Subject:
line, Matt might be able to automatically split things off to the
correct sub-archive? And add a filter to NOT archive any message with
"Chatter" in the Subject: line?
> I'd be willing to edit a chunk.
Note, that there's nothing to stop someone getting started on this; the
entire archive is downloadable from Matt's site. Choose a Volume (I --
VII) & Book (A-Z), download it (200K), clean it up, and (if Matt's
willing) send it back. Presumably Matt's search engine and the one at
Princeton.edu read these digest files? We do need to coordinate who's
doing which book though. I'm willing to do that; volunteers could email
me, and I'd allocate the next book to be cleaned up. (Given time zones,
allow 24 hour turnaround).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Dies |
Steve Dixon wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers
>
> I have a set of Cleveland Tool tank dimple dies. (For those that don't
> know, these dies make the dimple a few thousandths deeper to allow for
> the Pro Seal.) My question, to those that have used them before, did
> you dimple the skin and interior parts or just the interior parts? It
> seems to me that if there is no Pro Seal on the rivet head, just on the
> inside parts and the rivet shank, that dimpling the skin with tank dies would
> make the dimple too deep. Does this make any sence?
>
> If you have used them before, please let me know what you did and how
> you liked the results.
>
> Thanks
> Steve Dixon
> RV-8 Left Tank
> Ft. Lauderdale, FL
> sdixon(at)laker.net
>
I used the tank dies on all the wing skeleton parts, and the regular
dies on the skins. This makes the dimples nest together better, and I
am very pleased with the results.
I did the same thing on the tanks, and the rivets still came out quite
nice even though they had Proseal under the heads. Using the tank dies
on both tank ribs and skins might have looked a little nicer, but I
thought it would be better to get as tight a fit as possible between
ribs and skin.
Although you don't put Proseal on the rivet heads, the Proseal squeezes
out the holes when you cleco the parts together. I removed most of it
using a Q-tip with the cotton end pulled off (the flexible kind), but
left a smear of Proseal in the dimples all around the holes. Anyway, I
found there wasn't enough time to try and remove all the Proseal from
around the holes, and I think you do want Proseal under the rivet heads
to help make a better seal. You can wipe the excess off with acetone.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new rv fuel tank sealant |
wayne bonesteel wrote:
>
>have not seen any info on list about the new tank sealant shown in vans
>september 1996 accessories catalog, any info would be appreciated, i am
>ready to assemble my fuel tanks.
As I understand it (as relayed to me by Bill Benedict), the new stuff is
the same as ProSeal. The patent has now expired, and other people can make
the stuff now without a patent license.
Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Avionics, instruments, electrical done
installing engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sam James "Fiberglass 101" school/RV fly-in |
ATTENTION ALL FIBERGLASS ENTHUSIASTS (or haters) !!!
Sept 27, 1997 LaBelle Airport, Florida (X14)
Please plan for an 8:00 A.M. arrival
FREE pancake breakfast
FREE "Fiberglass 101" school, 3 hrs long, starting at 9:00 A.M.
NOT FREE Lunch (hamburgers) available from a local vendor after school for a
small charge
Please RSVP to Sam James 941-675-4493
Sam makes the '101' tape, available thru Van's. If you are contemplating a
career in doing the fiberglass on your RV, either the tape or this school is
a must.
Sam will have his 2 pc wheelpants (and many other RV related parts), and my 1
pc fiberglass gear leg fairings on display also.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: trim/throttle cables |
This was covered in the August 96 RV ATOR. If you are careful and lucky, you
can retain the rubber push button and re glue it. I did it and am very
pleased with the action of the throttle; however you lose the vernier
function.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trim/throttle cables |
>Does anyone know how to remove the ball from the Van's vernier
>trim/throttle cable to make it operate smoother??
>
>Alan Chappelow
Alan,
Awhile back, I modified a Van's throttle cable for a fellow RV-6 builder.
He didn't want the vernier function and I agree. You un-thread the aluminum
end on the end of the throttle and push the throttle in. You'll see the
ball on the end of the cable and the cable can be easily removed. You can
then press the button on the control and pull the rod out of the housing.
The ball will fall out, roll around on the floor and never be seen again. I
discarded the rubber button and found a "snap plug", you know, the little
covers with prongs around the circumference that snap into holes, the
correct size, chucked it into my lathe and polished it and glued it into a
recessed groove that I machined on the plastic knob. The builder clear
coated the polished metal and it looks pretty good.
I don't feel that you should do anything to the trim cable. It works well
right out of the box and it doesn't require much movement to trim the aircraft.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
Regards Liquid Crystal Displays: I was concerned about the performance of a
particular solid state electronic meter under high heat, high voltage and
high current conditions. It was easy to apply 277 volts and 20 amps to the
meter (its limit) but had to use an oven at work to attain 200 degrees F.
The display was ok at 150 degrees but when I tried 200 degrees it turned
completely black. It did clear after about two or three minutes as it cooled.
An LCD is susceptible to heat but I doubt our cockpits reach temperatures
over 150 degrees.
John
>>
>> Has anyone ever had excess heat cause a problem with their electronic
>> cockpit displays? I've seen cockpit heat blacken an LCD engine
>> monitor until the cockpit temperature dropped (about 10 minutes after
>> the canopy was tipped up).
>>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Dies |
>
>I have a set of Cleveland Tool tank dimple dies. (For those that don't
>
>the Pro Seal.) My question, to those that have used them before, did you
>dimple the skin and interior parts or just the interior parts? It seems
>
I used them on my second tank with extremely good results. Rivets on the
first tank using standard dies fairly good. Rivets on the second tank using
the dies were perfectly flush. I used them on the skin and as much of the
corresponding underlying structure as possible. If you make a slightly
deeper dimple in the skin, it stands to reason that you will want a slightly
dimple un the skeleton for it to nest into.
You could achieve similar results by slightly countersinking into a standard
dimple, but it is much more work. The tank dies are well worth the price.
Highly recommended.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | throttle quadrants |
I am looking for something a little different then the standard quadrant
that I have in my RV-4. It did not have enough movement for my bendix
throttle body and had to be modified. Does any one know of another source of
quadrants.
Tom Martin
RV-4 the RaVen, flying again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming the archive |
>
<-- stuff snipped-->
>Better yet would be to split the archive according to the sub-kit (Emp,
>Wings, Fus, Fin) or component (HS, VS, Rudder, Engine, Instruments,
>etc). If we could be rigorous in our use of these things in the Subject:
>line, Matt might be able to automatically split things off to the
>correct sub-archive? And add a filter to NOT archive any message with
>"Chatter" in the Subject: line?
>>
>Note, that there's nothing to stop someone getting started on this; the
>entire archive is downloadable from Matt's site. Choose a Volume (I --
>VII) & Book (A-Z), download it (200K), clean it up, and (if Matt's
>willing) send it back. Presumably Matt's search engine and the one at
>Princeton.edu read these digest files? We do need to coordinate who's
>doing which book though. I'm willing to do that; volunteers could email
>me, and I'd allocate the next book to be cleaned up. (Given time zones,
>allow 24 hour turnaround).
>
>Frank.
>
I would be willing to do some of this. We do need to figure out some
guidelines on how we are going to do it. We need to make sure that we
leave whatever header info that is needed by the search engines. It
wouldn't make much sense to spend all this time paring the archive if the
search engines couldn't use the results.
So, would someone who understands the search engine please post some
guidelines on which headers are required. We should also hear from Matt
before we launch into this endeavour.
Great idea though,
Kevin Horton
future RV-8 builder (Rv-8 tail kit and tools ordered)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Does anyone offer pre-fab fairings for the gear leg to fuselage, and
gear leg to wheel intersections? If they do, I want 'em. Thanks.
(RV-4)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
(probe.mt.att.com!pmbs(at)matronics.com)
| Subject: | Re: Trimming the archive |
> I'd also be willing to edit a reasonable amount monthly for a few
> months until the archive was pared down. Using Unix tools like sed and
> awk, once the programs were written it would be fairly easy to remove
> the repetitive text....even a lot of the header information not needed
> for content value.
>
> Paul M. Bilodeau
Here's a shell script that will remove the "unnecessary" header
information from any file containing saved email text. Running this
on the archives as a whole would be a good idea before sending pieces
out to be further edited. These lines account for a small, but
significant, portion of the total size.
#!/bin/ksh
#
# t r i m _ m a i l
#
# This script accepts arguments which are tested to determine if they are
# writable files. If so, the files are stripped of noninteresting mail
# header lines. The files' original modification times are retained.
#
# Environment Variables:
#
# LOGNAME - this variable is used to remove lines following the
# 'Received:' lines that begin with "\tfor $LOGNAME"
# It is expected that LOGNAME is set to the user's account
# name. If LOGNAME is not set, a nonsense string is
# substituted so sentences indented by a tab and starting
# with the word 'for' aren't stripped.
# if no arguments are passed, print usage string and return
if (( $# < 1 ))
then
print "usage: $0 mail_file [mail_file ...]"
return 1
fi
# while there are arguments left...
while (( $# >= 1 ))
do
# if the file looks like it was compressed with compress(1), skip it
if [[ $1 = *.Z ]]
then
shift
continue
fi
# if given a writable file, strip it
if [[ -f $1 && -w $1 ]]
then
big_file=$1
little_file=$1.$$.TRIM
# get the original size before stripping
before=$(wc -c $big_file | cut -d\ -f 1)
# strip the original file (big_file) of common extraneous header
# lines and put the results in little_file
sed -e "/^[ > ]*Received: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]* id A/d" \
-e "/^[ > ]* for ${LOGNAME:=JjUuNnKk}/d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Snarfer: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Message-Id: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Mailer: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Status: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*X-Hpvue\$Revision: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Mime-Version: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Content-Type: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*X-Vue-Mime-Level: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*X-Envelope-To: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*X-Courtesy-Of: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*X-Mailer: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*X-Status: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Forwarded-By: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Content-Length: /d" \
-e "/^[ > ]*Content-Transfer-Encoding: /d" \
$big_file >$little_file
# adjust the date/time of little_file to match big_file
touch -r $big_file $little_file
# get the new size after stripping
after=$(wc -c $little_file | cut -d\ -f 1)
# remove big_file and move little_file in its place
rm $big_file
mv $little_file $big_file
# print results
print "$big_file: removed $(( before - after )) bytes"
fi
# shift the arguments and go around again
shift
done
--
'Rob
Rob Rimbold
Hewlett Packard Company
Workstation Systems Division
ISV Technical Consulting Lab
Email: rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com
Tel: (561) 489-0092
Fax: (561) 489-6865
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Moore"<dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
proaxis.com!retflygtiger(at)matronics.com on 08/14/97 07:04:08 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Cabin frame
Denny asked about the tip-up frame - see below
Denny - you are correct. There are a lot of pieces that come together
here. The shim, 606 flange, and 632B angle are all intended to equal the
thickness of the plexi canopy (3/16 in.), which sandwiches between the 632A
channel and aft top fuselage skin.
You need to modify the 632A channel by trimming away 1/8 in. on the top
facing portion only. This allows the 632B angle to lay across the top of
632A while permitting the sides of the 632A channel to butt up to the 606
web (where a small angle segment joins them). I hope this makes sense.
There is barely enough room to get a rivet through the mess. I wouldn't
worry about edge distance too much. With all of the angle segments and
additional suport, this area will remain quite strong. Don't trim the 674
skin too much now (leave it fat). This is done later with the canopy.
Anyone with a tip type canopy on the 6....The plan (#39) shows the F632B
attach angle on top of the F632A channel. To attach the Channel to the F606
bulk head.
It appears that the plan calls for the rivets to go thru the F674 aft top
fuselage skin, a shim, the F606 flange, the F632B angle and finally thru
the
F632A Channel.
If you follow me is this correct thus far?
If that is correct that would rivet almost thru the inside radius
of
the F632B angle, in order to get edge distance on the F606 flange. Which
doesn't seem right to me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ShelbyRV6A(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wingtips - from Bakersfield |
I saw these at Oshkosh. Dave Anders on a RV4, Tracy Saylor on a RV6 and most
if not all of the Harmon Rockets. Tracy claims an extra 2 mph while the
Rocket claim about 5 to 7 mph. They basically taper outward from the leading
edge creating a leading edge down the cord line. This reduces the wing tip
vortices induced drag. I hope I have the theory correct. Anyway they looked
interesting and I thought there might be someone on the list with additional
infor.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James "Fiberglass 101" school/RV fly-in |
>
>Sam makes the '101' tape, available thru Van's. If you are contemplating a
>career in doing the fiberglass on your RV, either the tape or this school is
>a must.
>
>Sam will have his 2 pc wheelpants (and many other RV related parts), and my 1
>pc fiberglass gear leg fairings on display also.
>
>Check six!
>Mark
>
I pickup Sam tape from Van's the other day and it was worth every
cent to me. I also purchase some time back his Wheel pants and wing
fairings. Not that I couldn't have done it without the above, but it sure
make it easier for very little extra cost.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming the archive |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------61F913C85FB2
Mitch Faatz wrote:
snipped
Would it be possible to edit the archives?
I've been editing and saving articles from the list since I subscribed
back in April of this year. I use Netscape's HTML editor to remove all
the headers, and other unnecessary verbage. I also remove all the
annoying > symbols that show up on quoted parts of messages. I also
clean up spelling errors ( at least the ones I catch).
When several good ideas are given to solve a problem I list them all in
one file. This saves time having to search for ideas on a subject. I
can mail copies of these to anyone who wishes to oversee the project.
I'm not saying my way is the "only or right" way to do this. It is just
"a" way to do it that saves a lot of searching and time. I've got 6
floppy disks full already in 4 months. Everything is catagorized by
sub-kit and then sub-catagorized by structure. Separate catagories are
made for painting, tools, etc.
I'm attaching one such file to give you an idea of what I've done.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 rudder
--------------61F913C85FB2
les.html"
What side do you lay flat on table to check for flatness?
The rib web side, unless the flange is completely uniform all the way around,
in which case checking flatness on the flange edge would yield equivalent
results.
It also says cut out lightning holes in rings on the HS-405's. In the
manual it says to drill pilot holes then use a fly cutter. They have Inch
and a half holes already. Am I missing something here?
The early kits required you to fly cut the holes out yourself (perish
the thought). The newer kits probably have the holes mostly punched out.
Just ensure that the flat portion of the lightening hole is taken out to
the edge of the dished area, debur and smooth the edges, then move on.
FWIW, I took the lower roller in the Avery tool and chamfered the roller
outer edge at a 40 degree angle (complementary angle to 100/2) just enough
to clear the dimples.
-GV
Also, does anyone know a way to roll an edge after holes are drilled
and dimpled nearby?
I have done this more than once. I found a nifty way to solve it was
to make a spacer out of a 1/8" thick wood, disk-shaped, the dia. of
the edge rolling tool, cut out the middle for the rollers, and tape it
to the tool to serve as a spacer. Then I could use the tool and miss the
rollers. Actually since I have forgotten more than once to roll the edge
before dimpling, I keep the spacer around and have used it several times.
It is harder to keep from rolling off the edge, but it works.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com
--------------61F913C85FB2--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
> The display was ok at 150 degrees but when I tried 200 degrees it
> turned completely black. It did clear after about two or three
> minutes as it cooled.
>
> An LCD is susceptible to heat but I doubt our cockpits reach
> temperatures over 150 degrees.
>
> John Ammeter
> Seattle WA
In Florida (where I live), I bet that they reach the 140/150 range.
Has anyone ever measured maximum cockpit temperature on a hot summer
day, preferably in Florida? TV news shows always quote "temperatures
in excess of 140 degrees" when talking about pets or children left in
cars on a hot day.
So far, the conversation hasn't really convinced me that LCDs are OK
to use as instrument display devices. Their temperature extremes (hot
or cold) are rather likely to be reached.
Earlier, I asked if anyone had encountered problems, and there hasn't
been much of a response. I guess now's the time to ask another
question. How many people are using LCD displays? What part of the
country do you live/fly in?
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Trimming the archives- blunder |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------644569B23E69
Oops!
I really goofed. My girls son jumped in to use my computer while I was
composing my last email & editing several tips from the list. I ended
up attaching the wrong file to my last message. (You'll note that the
ideas listed were not on the same subject)
I was supposed to edit that one and send you this one instead. It's a
much better representation of what I've done. (At least it's on one
subject and makes sense! :-) )
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 rudder
If at first you don't succeed, email again!
--------------644569B23E69
Strobe%20Kit%20from%20Gall's.html"
I received a techncal data sheet from Gall's on their standard strobe
power supply and thought I would share the basic specs.
Gall's Inc. 2680 Palumbo Dr. Lexington, KY 40555-4308 1-800-477-7766
Wheelen Power Supply Model# U-GR083 Price New $99.99 Price reman. $74.99
First: This unit is made by Wheelen and is their model SPS-660C. Up
to six strobes can be powered by this single unit.
Specs:
Voltage - Input 10v
- 30vDC
Current(12v) 6
AMPS
Current(26.5v) 3
AMPS
Flash Rate 140
F/M typical
Flash Patterns Single
(Comet)
(selectable)
Rapid Double
Joules - High 11/5/5/5
typical Joules - Low 4/4/4/4 typical
Output Power
60 WATTS
Dimensions
Could not read on fax.
Weight
Not stated, but shipped as less than 2lbs.
Cost New $99.00
- 5 year warranty
Refurb $75.00
- 90 day warranty
Could be a good alternative to the Wheelen FAA approved models. --
Rick Osgood Hennipen Technical College Eden Prairie, MN
Guys, ... I wouldn't use these units. This particular mix and match
won't meet the FAA output requirements.
If the specs. below are correct, this Power Supply does not produce enough
output (the 11 joules figure) to meet the FAA required output of 400 effective
candles. For the Whelen A600 and A650 units (the wing tip mount units),
a power of 12 joules per flash will only produce 380 effective candles
(ref. the table in the ASS catalog). The Whelen recommended power supply
for multiple units (A413) produces 25 joules per flash, and the single
strobe supply (A490) produces 20 joules per flash. This power output is
considerably more than the max. 11 joules quoted below - I don't fully
understand the ratings below, and might also assume that you get even less
power (the 5 joules figure) if you use this supply for multiple strobe
heads.
The FAA does not give us many specific items that we have to meet, but
the power output and angular distribuion of the strobe light outut is one
that is given VERY specifically. Whelen (and Aeroflash) have done their
tests to produce an "FAA compliant system" .... if you mix and
match in this fashion, you should be prepared to prove your light output
is compliant.
This also goes for mounting styles, the angular mounting (unit not horizontal)
of the wingtip strobes directly on the tips of some RVs is probably not
compliant since the strobes have a "lens effect" built into the
pyrex cover to concentrate the light output in the horizontal plane. Tilt
the unit and you tilt the light distribution, which is called out specifically
in the FAA regulations, with a maximum in the horizontal plane. Look at
the variation in thickness of the pyrex cover some time.
The same problem also occurs if you mount a single strobe that was designed
for wing tip mounting in the RV fin at 90 degrees to it's factory recommended
direction. This would be great for an anti-collision warning for a vertically
diving collision hazard, but MUCH less effective for the normal collision
hazard that is at the same altitude as you are...:^)
Pick a Power Supply with more output (the aircraft unit?).
.... Gil (read the regs.) Alexander
--------------644569B23E69--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtips - from Bakersfield |
>vortices induced drag. I hope I have the theory correct. Anyway they looked
>interesting and I thought there might be someone on the list with additional
>infor.
>Shelby in Nashville.
When I spoke to Tracy, he indicated the stock wingtips had a little
pre-stall buffet, the "rocket" tips have no stall warning whatsoever.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q in slowbuild mode :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Denny, This didn't seem right to me so I added another piece to the mess
you described. On the aft-underside of F-632-A, I riveted in a .032 plate
bent at 100 degrees to match the bend of F632-B. This piece is riveted to
F632-A using flush 3-3.5 rivets. It is riveted through F632-B and the F606
bulkhead using the existing holes. This then gives me a good strong
intersection to drill and rivet the top skins through the flange of the
F606 bulkhead and F632-B. It is probably overkill but I didn't like the
way it looked without the extra plate.
Ross Mickey
rmickey@ix,netcom.com
> If that is correct that would rivet almost thru the inside radius
of
> the F632B angle, in order to get edge distance on the F606 flange. Which
> doesn't seem right to me.
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
>In Florida (where I live), I bet that they [cockpits in the sun] reach the
140/150 range....
Seems to me that I would probably go completly blank sitting in a cockpit in
the 140-150 degree range. Once the cockpit cools down to "personal comfort"
level the displays would probably not be affected. They are not on, nor
needed while the cockpit is baking in the hot sun and will probably cool
enough as the cockpit cools with you in it. If there was a question, a
cooling air source (one is keeping me cool) may also work on the instruments.
Just some thoughts..........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: new rv fuel tank sealant |
Mike,
I used the same approach your talking about on my fuel tanks. The numbers
are not the same however it sounds like the same stuff. The sealant I used is
used on boeing and douglas aircraft. The difference in numbers has to do with
thickness and cure time. I used the thinner sealant between ribs and skin,
when the sealant dried I went over the flanges and rivets on the inside of
the tank with the thicker sealant. I am now at 420hrs with no leaks. BTW I
used 2 different approaches on my fuel tanks, I dimpled one side and machine
counter sunk the other. The dimpling is the only way to go. The side that I
machined is noticeable. The new tank dies sound great and I will be
purchasing a set for my next set of tanks.(next airplane)
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard TREANOR <treanor(at)ci.sunnyvale.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtips - from Bakersfield -Reply |
<>
Question: The fighter aircraft that I'm familiar with have a slight twist built
into the wing so that stall begins at the wing root and moves outward as
the stall deepens. Ailerons are the last thing to be effected. During Air
Combat Maneuvering where you want to out-turn your adversary, you
pull into the slight buffet of stall onset (edge of the envelope stuff).
I was surprised to hear that the wing tips would offer stall
warning...seems bass ackwards to an old fighter pilot. Haven't got to the
wings yet, but do the wings have any twist...or no need?
Rich Treanor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff <jeffr(at)phonetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
>> The display was ok at 150 degrees but when I tried 200 degrees it
>> turned completely black. It did clear after about two or three
>> minutes as it cooled.
>>
>So far, the conversation hasn't really convinced me that LCDs are OK
>to use as instrument display devices. Their temperature extremes (hot
>or cold) are rather likely to be reached.
>
I have looked up some data sheets and found that the operating temperature
range for LCD's is from about 15 degrees to 140 degrees F, though some are
worse. I did find some wide range units that work from about -5 to 160
degrees F, which appears to be about the limit for present day LCD's. The
storage temperature ranges are greater, of course, where they typically
will withstand nearly 20 degrees higher/lower than the operating
temperature without damage.
Though a hot aircraft interior might not be high enough to damage an LCD,
it might be hot enough to prevent it from working properly (i.e. the
display might be all black until it cools). At the other end of the
temperature scale, an aircraft left in the cold during winter might result
in LCD damage.
Note that LED's (light emitting diodes) do not have this temperature
problem, and many can function from about -70 to over 250 degrees F. In
short, the only LCD's used in an aircraft should probably be limited to
portable equipment that can be kept warm/cool.
Jeff Rosson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
I have a Grand Rapids engine monitor in my RV-6A.
It sits on top of the transponder which sits on top of my comm. There is no cooling
air ducted to these
instruments.
On the way back from Oshkosh this summer I encountered temperatures arount 75 to
80 deg F at 8500 ft ASL.
The monitor gradually turned black enough that it was very difficult to see the
display. The front face
of the unit was quite hot to the touch. Cleared up as temps dropped.
In the winter, I rarely fly if it is below -10 deg F. At these temperatures, the
display is slow to update, but
as the cabin heat & heat from the stack kick in, it soon works normally.
The airplane has sat in an unheated hanger at 50 deg below F with no apparant ill
effects to the monitor.
I would expect that the Vision Microsystems display would behave in a similiar
manner.
Hope this helps
Ted French
RV-6A 140 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
(dimensional.com!mikel(at)matronics.com)
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
> Seems to me that I would probably go completly blank sitting in a
> cockpit in the 140-150 degree range. Once the cockpit cools down to
> "personal comfort" level the displays would probably not be
> affected.
The experience I had happened after we parked an RV6A for lunch. The
LCD engine monitor display was black when we returned. After having
the canopy (which was left uncovered) open for about 10 minutes, it
was still black. It took cooling (moving) air about 5 to 10 minutes
to get the display back to a readable condition. That's a long time to
not know how your engine is doing after startup. Actually, just the
air being ducted into the cabin from the prop blast while parked
wasn't enough. We took off hoping that cooler air at altitude (3500
ft) would help. It did - after about 5 or 10 minutes.
> They are not on, nor needed while the cockpit is baking in the hot
> sun and will probably cool enough as the cockpit cools with you in
> it. If there was a question, a cooling air source (one is keeping
> me cool) may also work on the instruments.
True, but in this case it meant (at the least) starting the engine
without being able to monitor oil pressure or any other parameter.
With a Vision system, it would probably mean not being able to monitor
much more.
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wingtips - from Bakersfield |
<< When I spoke to Tracy, he indicated the stock wingtips had a little
pre-stall buffet, the "rocket" tips have no stall warning whatsoever.
>>
Hmmmmmmmm....... Sounds like they're doing the job of keeping the vortex away
from the top of the wing. If you think about it, a square, un-twisted wing
(like the RV's have) should stall along it's entire length at the same time.
I would suggest that the wing/fuse intersection would influence this in some
manner. A buffet is felt when only a part of the wing is stalled, right? Did
Tracy say anything about the stall characteristics? Is the stall still pretty
tame, or does the bird try to roll over on it's back?
I asked Dave Anders if he thought there was any advantage, and he said he
observed a 2 MPH gain, but I didn't think to ask him about any other flight
character changes. Dave explained the tip as having a "leading edge" all the
way back to the trailing edge. John Harmon added that the aileron shake went
away, due to the vortex remaining outside the tip longer and not touching the
outer edge of the aileron top skin. I think he has to throttle back to stay
sub-sonic, too. ;-)
BTW, I have an extra set of these things in my shop. A customer changed his
mind, so they are up for grabs. No light kit. Not cheap, either.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
apollo.hp.com!rimbold(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> > The display was ok at 150 degrees but when I tried 200 degrees it
> > turned completely black. It did clear after about two or three
> > minutes as it cooled.
> >
> > An LCD is susceptible to heat but I doubt our cockpits reach
> > temperatures over 150 degrees.
> >
> > John Ammeter
> > Seattle WA
>
> In Florida (where I live), I bet that they reach the 140/150 range.
> Has anyone ever measured maximum cockpit temperature on a hot summer
> day, preferably in Florida? TV news shows always quote "temperatures
> in excess of 140 degrees" when talking about pets or children left in
> cars on a hot day.
>
> So far, the conversation hasn't really convinced me that LCDs are OK
> to use as instrument display devices. Their temperature extremes (hot
> or cold) are rather likely to be reached.
>
> Earlier, I asked if anyone had encountered problems, and there hasn't
> been much of a response. I guess now's the time to ask another
> question. How many people are using LCD displays? What part of the
> country do you live/fly in?
>
Rob:
I have several LCD displays in my -4, including a King KLX-135A and the
Rocky Mountain instruments. I have not had any heat problems from any
of them and I'm sure I never will since I will make sure my cockpit is
well below 140F before I take off. I suggest you do the same unless you
are exceptionally resistant to heat stroke.
I think it would be more likely to have an extremely cold cockpit if you
fly in a northern climate. As I recall, the lower end of the
temperature scale causes these displays to fade and lose contrast and to
become very sluggish in response, so if you had your plane someplace
really cold there would be a time after startup before the heater kicked
in and warmed things up that you wouldn't be able to read the displays.
But I couldn't say as I've never flown when the temp has been all that
cold. Here in Portland, OR our temps are always relatively mild.
There are several different types of LCD's and temperature limits vary
accordingly. Some will take temps as high as 220F. Any will take at
least 140F. I seem to remember hearing that an LCD can be permanently
damaged by extreme cold (-60F) although some are designed to still work
at -40F. Garmin's spec on their GPS-89 shows +5F as the lower limit.
Certainly not a temp you'd want to sit in very long!
DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I was checking the elevator tube (the one that broke on the rv-4 last
week) on my -4 today just for the heck of it. I noticed that when you
put in full aileron deflection to the left it caused the bottom section
of the bell crank to flex about 1/8", and to the right the flex was
about 1/16". This is with the recommended full deflection of the
ailerons. This seems to be something that would cause a lot of stress
on the tube, and some on the bell crank. I see no way to stop this
without using a type of bearing that has more deflection angle to it. I
don't know the technical terms for that. I know that full deflection is
seldom used, but how many flexes does it take to crack the tubing or the
bell crank? Has anyone else noticed this problem with their plane?
Does anyone have any idea how I can fix this one? Thanks. Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
On the aft-underside of F-632-A, I riveted in a .032 plate
>bent at 100 degrees to match the bend of F632-B. This piece is riveted to
>F632-A using flush 3-3.5 rivets. It is riveted through F632-B and the F606
>bulkhead using the existing holes. This then gives me a good strong
>intersection to drill and rivet the top skins through the flange of the
>F606 bulkhead and F632-B.
Ross that looks like a solution I may use. I made a new F-688, extending it
out the same distance as the F632B angle. By the time I got the F632A
notched for the F632B to fit flush with the F606, there was nearly 1/4"
notch out of it. So it looks like the F606 would be a better anchored to
F632A with the addition of your angle idea under the F632A.
Thanks For the idea.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtips - from Bakersfield -Reply |
>warning...seems bass ackwards to an old fighter pilot. Haven't got to the
>wings yet, but do the wings have any twist...or no need?
>Rich Treanor
Its my understanding that RV wings should be flat, no washout at the tips.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
> In
>short, the only LCD's used in an aircraft should probably be limited to
>portable equipment that can be kept warm/cool.
>Jeff Rosson
Why do ALL major avionics manufacturers making bunches of LCD display
equipment that's panel mounted (RMI, King, ICOM, Garmin, Apollo, etc. etc.)
continue to do so? Everyone, including myself, who uses them has no
complaints save for *major* (below zero and Sahara) temperature extremes.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dropping objects |
I do not think opening the tip up canopy in flight to be a good idea. Used to
do the toilet paper drop in my AA1-C but never could hit the thing. TOO fast
and it to slow. Do it often in my Kitfox. Once almost re-caught the roll but
nearly fell out trying - felt that way anyhow. RV too fast for low alt.
maneuvering. Kitfox stall at 26 mph--- more room for error. Do not try it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator tube |
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
> I noticed that when you
> put in full aileron deflection to the left it caused the bottom section
> of the bell crank to flex
> Has anyone else noticed this problem with their plane?
> Does anyone have any idea how I can fix this one? Thanks. Michael.
>
>
Michael, do you have the 5702-75-060 washers installed between
the bearing and the bracket that is welded on the bottom of the rear
stick. I assume that we are talking about the F 440 pushrod. A pair of
these washers are also installed at the other end of F 440 at the
bellcrank. I can move the stick as far as it will go without the
aileron pushtube installed without any side deflection of the fuselage
bellcrank. If these washers are installed, I don't know what to tell
you. I got this off of drawing 28.
Hope this helps.
Carroll
ps These washers have 3/16 ID 5/16 OD and are 1/16" thick.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
(ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com)
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
> Why do ALL major avionics manufacturers making bunches of LCD
> display equipment that's panel mounted (RMI, King, ICOM, Garmin,
> Apollo, etc. etc.) continue to do so?
In my admittedly limited exposure, I haven't seen the major
manufacturers using LCDs. They've been using LEDs or
electroluminescent displays, which have a much larger temperature
range. The only LCDs that I've seen have been on hand-held equipment.
> Everyone, including myself, who uses them has no complaints save for
> *major* (below zero and Sahara) temperature extremes.
And that's probably the case for most people who live in a location
where the temperatures aren't extreme. My point is that it's
certainly possible to live in a location where those extremes are
easily reached. I don't mean that those temperatures are experienced
in-flight, but rather on the ground before startup. A long delay (20
minutes or so) can be experienced waiting for the LCD to either heat
or cool enough to be functional. I don't relish the idea of sitting
parked in an idling plane for 20 minutes if I don't have to -
especially if the cockpit temperature has recently cooled to match the
ambient 90 degrees.
An enclosed cockpit, with lots of area open to the sun, like an RV, is
a natural heat concentrator. Temperatures inside the closed cockpit
have a good chance of temporarily blackening an LCD display when
outside temperatures are only in the upper 80s and low 90s. Keeping
the canopy cracked open while parked would help a lot, as would
covering it or hangaring it. There's isn't much to be done on the low
end of the temperature scale. If the LCD reaches -10 or so, it's
outside the range specified by the manufacturer. Permanent damage
could result, and those temperatures *do* happen in the U.S (I'm
originally from New England).
I'm still looking for anecdotal evidence that this is really a problem
(or not). I'd really like to use something like a Vision Microsystems
unit if it won't cause problems in the Florida climate.
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Dropping objects |
At our local airport open houses we used to chase helium balloons (one
plane at a time).
It was a lot of fun trying to bust them with the prop. It was hard to
belive they could pass through the prop and bounce off your windshield
unhurt, sometimes. It was equally fun, wether in an old bonanza or an
old tripacer. Of course the slower piper gave more time for last minute
adjustment in course. Someone on the ground would release one and when
it got to a predetermined altitude it was legal for you to start the
chase, if you could see it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator tube |
I will double check for the washers on the tube ends. Will let you
know. Thanks alot.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)msn.com> |
Henson, Eric wrote:
> (Slow day on the list)
>
> Curt, I'm concerned about your recently drilled finger. You darn kids are
> taking this body piercing thing way too far. You did of course allow for
> proper edge clearance between the quick and the bone. If you plan to
> countersink that finger ...
ThenPat K wrote:
Ok, I have to know: what is the proper drilling technique for flesh and
bone? I'd hate to drill a finger only to have the part crack. Are
there special speeds? Bits? Is there a publication to cover this? Oh,
almost forgot, what are the approved swear words?
Pat:
Drilling fingerbones really isn't much different than drilling aluminum. There
are a few differences though. The technique is blunt dissection to the bone,
determine screw diameter to use, drill with irrigation, tap if necessary and
place the screw. Yes of course you need special orthopedic drill bits! $36.00
to $125 each. A bargain I admit but one time use only. Drill bit diameters
used in the finger and hand are from 1.4mm to 2.4mm, but certainty no bigger
than a #40. Now when drilling, copiously irrigate (pour water on the drill bit
to keep it cool)...so it helps to plan these procedures well in advance
because you'll need to have an assistant do this part. And for God's sake
keep your rpm's below 1000 to prevent thermal necrosis (heat induced bone
death)! Otherwise the screw(s)will come loose. Screws are a little more than
rivets though at about $45 to $165.00 each depending on size and metal type.
Smaller and titanium alloys more, large and stainless steel less. (Call me,
I've got a few more thanI'll need for my as yet (un)planned procedures).Yes
there are published techniques but I've learned, as you may well to that the
best practitioners don't need one and in fact probably never saw one. Swear
words..hey, you're the surgeon, you can say whatever the hell you want!
PaulO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
>In my admittedly limited exposure, I haven't seen the major
>manufacturers using LCDs.
I would suspect that King and the others I mentioned are most assuredly in
the top 10. They use LCD's on panel mount comm's, gps, etc.
>especially if the cockpit temperature has recently cooled to match the
>ambient 90 degrees.
Though I can't vouch for cold weather or using LCD's in an RV type aircraft,
I've used a King KX-97 (major manufacturer LCD comm) in a 172. OAT 100
degrees+ (I live in the southern california desert) not a problem, except
for my sweating.
My Ford Aerostar's LCD's still displayed, but very slowly, one cold morning
in splendorous Winnemucca NV, -28 F. My bird will be all LCD's, so after
its flying and I've been exposed to varying weather conditions I'll know if
they work or not.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finger Drilling |
Hi,
I can't believe all this discussion of these whimpy techniques everyone
has for drilling fingers.
Special drill bits? proper RPM? correct drilling pressures? Bah
humbug! That stuff is for the birds! Too much trouble! Who needs
it!?!
Perhaps you can give my "macho" technique a try.
1. Hold workpiece with hand. Hold drill gun with other hand.
2. Begin drilling (any bit, rpm, and pressure will do)
3. Wait for drill bit to break.
4. At this point the pressure you have on the drill gun will
transplate to the forward motion of the drill gun.
5. If you have properly aligned and executed this technique, the
freshly broken jagged edge drill bit will penetrate and possibly exit
your finger.
6. Bleed.
7. #(*&%!(&*@^$ !
8. Experience pain.
Seriously folks. This is just a warning to keep your hands away from
where the drill might go should the bit break.
-Glenn Gordon
RV-6
Fitting Canpoy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Finger Drilling |
When backing up a drilling operation with your hand you may want to use a
drill stop. This way skin penetration is limited to the epidermis and not the
inside stuff. Stop drilling when the curly-que turns from a shiny silver to a
flesh color. Anyway, this technique has always worked well for me. I do not
know if blood is corrosive to Al. but it cleans up well with alcohol and Hot
Stuff on the drill hole(in hand) seems to stop the bleeding quikly so as not
to slow your work progress. Does one count repair time on ones hands and
appendages toward total build time? Also, the technique can be improved upon
by raising up into a sharp Al. skin edge after drilling ones hand so as to
require numerous stitches across the forehead. Do you include emergecy room
medical cost to total project cost?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I checked the washers on the bellcrank. Last time I took it apart I
ended up with the washers on the outside of the bellcrank when I
reassembled it. Thanks alot for the helpful hint. Speaking of drilling
fingers, I always heat the drilled finger up with a small propane torch
to relieve the stress.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Weight and balance |
I did the weight check on my -4 today. I had to use bathroom scales for
I had no others available. I took readings with it level front to back
and side to side. I took readings on all 3 spots at the same time. I
then swapped the scales around and did it again. Swapped them 3 times
then averaged the readings. They were sometimes 20 lbs off from the
previous readings. I ended up with 51 on tail wheel, 468 on one main,
and 453 on the other. That's 972 total. That is with no gyros, or
radios. All other instruments and upholstery. How does this compare
with others? Has anyone else had experience with bathroom scales than
used good airplane scales and found the bathroom scales were off much?
I was disappointed with 972. I thought it would be 50 lbs lighter. Oh
yes, it is a 0320-e2d, wood prop. The air conditioner wasn't installed
yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
> Earlier, I asked if anyone had encountered problems, and there hasn't
> been much of a response. I guess now's the time to ask another
> question. How many people are using LCD displays? What part of the
> country do you live/fly in?
>
> 'Rob
Rob, I live in Alabama and I have several LCD displays in my RV-3A.
The only problem I have with them is seeing them in certain lighting
conditions. I even carry a flashlight so I can see them at times. The
need to see LCD from the side is not an issue in a RV-3A. ;-)
Joe Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 DWG 51, C612
I am ready to position the canpoy latching/locking mechanism into my
RV-6.
DWG shows a 2 3/8" dimension to position the C612 assy.
Most other measurements of this type have been taken from the top of the
longeron. This one seems to be taken from the bottom of the WD625A
weldment. Is this correct?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Rick, Check your Van's catalog. We have both the male and female
connectors to go on the ends of cables. Bill
>
>I purchased a Wheelen Strobe power supply at OSH this year but decided
>to get the cable and connectors
>back in Minneapolis. As I am finding.... these molex connectors are not
>in any electronics stores, including
>the "Electronics Parts Suppliers". Does anyone have a source on these
>connectors???
>
>Thanks
>Rick Osgood
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> | --- |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting! |
> +-- --+
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and balance |
Mike,
Sounds a little heavy with no gyro's or radio's. Did you use light weight
starter, alternator, is the plane painted or unpainted? If its painted your
probably in the ball park. Mine weighed in at 950lbs with radios and gyro
including in dash cd player.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tips, Internet Sources for Information on Riveting |
Steve...
Your local EAA chapter has mostly RV builders. These guys are great, and
are very helpful. If you want more info on this let me know...
Markvn(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight and balance |
<< They were sometimes 20 lbs off from the
previous readings. >>
Michael,
My experience weighing things in the shop with bathroom scales improve in
repeatability markedly after I realised it was important to put two supports
where your feet would normally be on the scales rather than a single point on
the center of the scale like a tire.Try it with a given object with and with
out the supports and see if it improves your repeatability.
Good luck,Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe Pack Location |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 Strobe Power Pack Location.
Can anyone suggest a good place to locate the strobe power pack?
The best two locations I have found are:
1. under the floor skins (is there enough room here)?
2. mounted on a shelf under the forward top fuse skin.
3. Obviously behine the baggage area would work, however I am trying to
keep stuff as forward (C.G.) in the airplane as possible.
I know the wire for the strobes is shielded. Is it still capable of
causing interference with instruments or radios? Does location affect
the potentional interference?
Thanks in advnace,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and balance |
I used the light weight alternator, regular starter, and lots of paint.
I have about three different colors on the wings, one layer over the
other. ( I tried schemes till I got to one i liked, and didn't strip
previous layers)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Touch Up Gun Problem |
| From: | "William H. Watson" <watson1(at)alink.net> |
Searched the archives, couldn't find any advice....
I use the small Sears touch up gun to spray Sherman Williams wash primer,
1:2 ratio, like Van uses. A lot of the time, when I first start
spraying, the gun sputters and I get a sort of textured finish (looks
awful - intense splatter pattern). Then I get something like cotton
candy or spider webs forming from the spray. Fiddle, fiddle. After
awhile, it seems to clear up, but I never feel like I'm in control of
what's happening. Short of confining my flying to Arizona (no primer),
what should I try/do?
Bill Watson
RV-6A
Emp almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Pack Location |
Glenn,
I helped mount a strobe pack in a friend's 6 and we choose behind the
baggage compartment:
A) Forward of spar complicates routing the shielded cable to the wing tip
-- the cable must be an unspliced run and getting it through or over the
spar is tricky.
B) We didn't have enough room under floor boards.
C) Behind baggage area was easiest but with attendant CG penalty.
Good practice is to route RF-carrying cable (like strobe HV) perpendicular
to signal-carrying wires. Maximum coupling of RF energy occurs when cables
are parallel.
Be careful and follow Whellen's instructions exactly on grounding cable.
Dennis N9DP (amateur radio call -- FAA sign unfortunately belongs to a
balloon!) RV6A in fuselage jig
----------
> From: Glenn & Judi <chocolatetruffles.com!glenn(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> RE: RV-6 Strobe Power Pack Location.
>
> Can anyone suggest a good place to locate the strobe power pack?
> The best two locations I have found are:
> 1. under the floor skins (is there enough room here)?
> 2. mounted on a shelf under the forward top fuse skin.
> 3. Obviously behine the baggage area would work, however I am trying to
> keep stuff as forward (C.G.) in the airplane as possible.
>
>
> I know the wire for the strobes is shielded. Is it still capable of
> causing interference with instruments or radios? Does location affect
> the potentional interference?
>
> Thanks in advnace,
> Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Danny,
asked the same question (even provided drawings). Tom @ Vans says to rivet
through the skin, the triangular bit and the F-606. The Channel and the
angle are to be riveted together and then the angle is to riveted to the
F-606 WEB not the flange. The shim is just for size and can be left out once
you have drilled the angle to the F-606.
Is it my imagination or is the canopy "the hardest bit" (Van) and the front
area the poorest drawings? Everyone I know asks this question.
Anyone know what the joggle in the flange on the top of the F-606 is for? Is
it something to do with the slider??
Best of luck Danny.
Royce (mounting the VS) Craven
>
>Anyone with a tip type canopy on the 6....The plan (#39) shows the F632B
>attach angle on top of the F632A channel. To attach the Channel to the F606
>bulk head.
>It appears that the plan calls for the rivets to go thru the F674 aft top
>fuselage skin, a shim, the F606 flange, the F632B angle and finally thru the
>F632A Channel.
> If you follow me is this correct thus far?
>
> If that is correct that would rivet almost thru the inside radius of
>the F632B angle, in order to get edge distance on the F606 flange. Which
>doesn't seem right to me.
>
> Is the above the way you all have done it? Have I missed the point
>here? And/or is there a better suggestion?
>
>Bill B. must be gone cause I ask earlier up at Van's net...and nothing came
>back, and he always pops right back.
>
> Anyway Thanks!
>
>
>Have a good one!
>
>Denny,
> RV-6 (R)N641DH
> Fuselage-top side
> Lebanon, OR
>
>
>
>
> +-- --+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com |
> | --- |
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or subject. |
> | --- |
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting! |
> +-- --+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Touch Up Gun Problem |
>I use the small Sears touch up gun to spray Sherman Williams wash primer,
>1:2 ratio, like Van uses. A lot of the time, when I first start
>spraying, the gun sputters and I get a sort of textured finish (looks
>awful - intense splatter pattern). Then I get something like cotton
>candy or spider webs forming from the spray. Fiddle, fiddle. After
>awhile, it seems to clear up, but I never feel like I'm in control of
>what's happening. Short of confining my flying to Arizona (no primer),
>what should I try/do?
Bill,
Have you checked packing nut adjustment? Using around 25 lbs of air (or
minimum amount of air necessary to get paint out of the gun)? Needle
straight and adjusted properly? Nozzle clean with no clogged passages. Cup
gasket in good shape? You might try mixing the S-W according to the label:
1 1/2 reducer to 1 base (?). Is it really warm where you are spraying?
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Channel |
Does anyone know of a source for 2"x3"x2" (.125" thick) 6061 aluminum "U"
channel (or rect. tube I could cut one 3" side out of)? I've tried ASS,
Airparts, and Wick's already.
Thanks,
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6 Quickbuild in slowbuild mode... :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Pack Location |
I used the behind the baggage compartment. Based on my eyeball calculation,
worst case is you will be a pound less on your baggage maximum. In my case
(with C/S prop and 180HP, lite alt and starter), there are no limits on
baggage other than the 100 lb. limit. I like it really fine and have had no
problems either with wiring, interference or anything; however my opinion is
the easiest solution is to use the double power supplies type with all in one
lights on the tips. The price and weight comparisons are very close and the
cg is not affected. Drag is slightly higher but those with this system seem
to go as fast as the rest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RMille6453(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Which O-360? |
---------------------
Subj: Which O-360?
Date: 97-08-17 13:22:34 EDT
From: RMille6453
Hi Guys
My mechanic has talked me into using an O-360 on my RV-8. I plan to buy a
core and overhaul it with new cylinders and use a constant speed prop. Does
anyone have an opinion on which dash number(s) of O-360 would work best?
Thanks
Rob Miller
Fuse on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean & Scott Spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Touch Up Gun Problem |
The 'cotton candy' problem is usually caused by using a thinner/reducer
that evaporates too quickly for the temperature range you are working
in. Most paint suppliers have many formulations of reducers/thinners
available -usually ordered by temperature range. Check into this. In
some cases only one type is available -in which case when the problem
starts use more reducer/thinner in the mix. Fast drying paints like most
laquers are worst for this in my experience.
Some of the epoxy primers out there today claim that no reduction is
recessary, just mix 'part A' and 'part B' and shoot. In my experience I
find that I almost always need to reduce these paints anyway. For the
new water-reducible paints this is easy :) For the non-H20 types I have
found that a little MEK usually does the job.
Another basic thing that confused me in the beginning:
Laquers use thinners. Enamels use reducers.
Thinners usually are more volatile than reducers i.e. they dissolve more
things and evaporate more quickly. Make sure what you are using is
compatible with your paint. Usually if it 'curdles' the paint or
otherwise doesn't seem to mix well then you've got the wrong stuff.
Disclaimer: I've been doin' it awhile -but I ain't no expert.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Weight and balance |
(Michael C. Lott) writes:
<< I used the light weight alternator, regular starter, and lots of paint.
I have about three different colors on the wings, one layer over the
other. ( I tried schemes till I got to one i liked, and didn't strip
previous layers) >>
It sounds like your in the right ball park then. You may want to try some
more accurate scales.
Ryan
---------------------
From: datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com (Michael C. Lott)
Date: 97-08-17 12:20:38 EDT
I used the light weight alternator, regular starter, and lots of paint.
I have about three different colors on the wings, one layer over the
other. ( I tried schemes till I got to one i liked, and didn't strip
previous layers)
--+
|
|
|
|
|
|
--+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Pack Location |
>Can anyone suggest a good place to locate the strobe power pack?
>The best two locations I have found are:
>1. under the floor skins (is there enough room here)?
>2. mounted on a shelf under the forward top fuse skin.
>3. Obviously behine the baggage area would work, however I am trying to
>keep stuff as forward (C.G.) in the airplane as possible.
>I know the wire for the strobes is shielded. Is it still capable of
>causing interference with instruments or radios? Does location affect
>the potentional interference?
>Glenn Gordon
Glen,
I mounted mine behind the baggage compartment. On my next six, it will go
as far forward as possible, probably the firewall, mounted with nutplates.
Anything you can do to get the C.G. forward if you are using a wood or fixed
pitch metal prop is a good idea, I think. Some listers have mentioned
routing wires along the front of the spar behind the tanks. I'd put a
conduit behind the tank if I were going to do this. I think I read on the
list long ago that it was OK to drill a hole in the inboard end of the spars
for wire routing (similar to the location of the hole for the trim cable.)
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank L Laczko Sr." <flaczko(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vision microsystems |
Well, I did not measure it in an RV, but have seen 170+ in my car on the
top of the dashboard in August. But then again, that WAS in Texas. I
measured it after a portable CD player expired after being left there.
Frank
>
>
>> The display was ok at 150 degrees but when I tried 200 degrees it
>> turned completely black. It did clear after about two or three
>> minutes as it cooled.
>>
>> An LCD is susceptible to heat but I doubt our cockpits reach
>> temperatures over 150 degrees.
>>
>> John Ammeter
>> Seattle WA
>
>In Florida (where I live), I bet that they reach the 140/150 range.
>Has anyone ever measured maximum cockpit temperature on a hot summer
>day, preferably in Florida? TV news shows always quote "temperatures
>in excess of 140 degrees" when talking about pets or children left in
>cars on a hot day.
>
>So far, the conversation hasn't really convinced me that LCDs are OK
>to use as instrument display devices. Their temperature extremes (hot
>or cold) are rather likely to be reached.
>
>Earlier, I asked if anyone had encountered problems, and there hasn't
>been much of a response. I guess now's the time to ask another
>question. How many people are using LCD displays? What part of the
>country do you live/fly in?
>
>'Rob
>
>
>
>
>
> +--
--+
> | Visit the Matronics & RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
|
> | ---
|
> | To [un]subscribe from the RV-List, email
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" |
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the *body*. No other text or
subject. |
> | ---
|
> | Please aggressivly edit quoted text on a followup posting!
|
> +--
--+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Touch Up Gun Problem |
>
>I use the small Sears touch up gun to spray Sherman Williams wash primer,
>1:2 ratio, like Van uses. A lot of the time, when I first start
>spraying, the gun sputters and I get a sort of textured finish (looks
>awful - intense splatter pattern).
Bill, I had that problem with the stinging at first, I discovered that I
was stirring it enough or at least that seemed to cure that problem and the
grainy texture I cured with more thinner.
Anyway the above seemed to cure those problems.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
>asked the same question (even provided drawings). Tom @ Vans says to rivet
>through the skin, the triangular bit and the F-606. The Channel and the
>angle are to be riveted together and then the angle is to riveted to the
>F-606 WEB not the flange. The shim is just for size and can be left out once
>you have drilled the angle to the F-606.
(SNIP)
Hi Royce, I wished I would have gotten a hold of Tom first.
Ken @Van's sent me a message that is was to be riveted thru
the mess and a couple of other guy's said they that way too.
But, Tom's way sure would have save me a batch of time.
(SNIP)
>Is it my imagination or is the canopy "the hardest bit" (Van) and the front
>area the poorest drawings? Everyone I know asks this question.
(SNIP)
Andy @ Van's said it wasn't drawn very clearly, so even one of the
engineer types thinks that could be improved.
(SNIP)
>Anyone know what the joggle in the flange on the top of the F-606 is for? Is
>it something to do with the slider??
(SNIP)
No, I couldn't figure that out either.....I just flatten it out.
Thanks for the thought...I finished that yesterday....Locating the seats today.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca (joehine) |
Listers,
I've waited along time for this,
and I am happy to tell you all that C-FYTQ had its first flight today in
the capable hands of Eric Bradley who is a local long time RV owner. (flys
TBM water Bombers, see an old RVator).
The first flight was from Weyman Airpark which is owned by Eric father. The
flight was uneventful except the radio quit and my brand new fuel pressure
gauge had the needle fall off.
There is one other problem that is not as easy to fix. The aircraft has a
heavy right wing. This gets worse with airspeed, and at crusing speed
requires moderate one hand pressure to correct. By the time we were slowed
down ( this on subsiquent flights with me in the back) the heavyness was
gone by the time the flaps were put down.
I am not sure what steps to follow to chase this down and fix it. I didn't
fly the airplane myself today because of this and nasty cross winds at
Weymans one narrow runway.
I remember reading here about squeezing the trailing edge of one aleron, but
I couldn't remember if it was the heavy or light one.
This put a little damper on an otherwise very good day. I have been eleven
years and two months building this aircraft, and have looked forward to
seeing fly for along time. The high signs from my neibours and smiles from
my kids are very gratifying after all this time.
Sorry to ramble. If anyone has ideas about the heavy wing please pass them
along, I'm back out to the airport tomorrow to try and fix thingsand I don't
have a test pilot anymore, he's back to his firebase and TBM's
Joe
C-FYTQ RV4 - flying!! first flight 97-08-17
joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca 13 James St.
506-452-1072 Home Douglas, NB
506-452-3495 Work Canada, E3A 7Z2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Pack Location |
>
>I used the behind the baggage compartment. Based on my eyeball calculation,
>worst case is you will be a pound less on your baggage maximum. In my case
>(with C/S prop and 180HP, lite alt and starter), there are no limits on
>baggage other than the 100 lb. limit.
I'm pondering the location of the American ELT and the Whelan strobe. I
have 160HP C/S with an light IFR panel.
A fellow with an RV-6A told me he had to move his battery to the baggage for
W&B purposes and advised me to start out that way. However other have said
"No don't do it" Without having wt&bal form to play with the items. I
thought I would put the ELT just aft the left seat and the the strobe pack
on the other side behind the right seat.
But,I wonder if shouldn't locate the one or both of them just aft baggage
wall???
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator tube |
>Do you have the 5702-75-060 washers installed between
>the bearing and the bracket that is welded on the bottom of the rear
>stick.
>ps These washers have 3/16 ID 5/16 OD and are 1/16" thick.
>
5/16 OD? That is a pretty narrow washer........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
dear listers,
while fitting my right elevator to the HS I found I had a 1/8inch gap
between the HS 411 assembly and the WD-405 elevator horn.I double checked all
my measurements and they are right on.I understand a washer will go here but
it will not close this gap.is this normal?should i use more than one
washer?please help.
chris marion
rv-6 elevators
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Touch Up Gun Problem |
I've had the same problem with my touch up gun. After much frustration, I
read the instructions and found that there is a cork gasket in the gun which
needs to be oiled periodically to prevent an air leak (I use whatever oil is
handy....air tool oil works fine). The gasket can be found by unscrewing the
control knob on the back side of the gun and removing the needle.
Given that priming (for me) is one of the more trying tasks , I go ahead and
lube this gasket the night before I plan to prime just to eliminate one
variable. Now, if I could just control bugs, dust, sun, rain, humidity,
wind, and work schedule.....
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Michael, I just installed NACA type vents on my RV-4 fuselage, after using
an older style on the canopy for the past 5 years. The vents on the canopy
did not work unless you made a scoop on the outside to scoop the air in.
The new ones on the fuselage are just below the cowl cheek extensions and
just aft of the firewall. One on each side of the fuselage. The hose
connects to the vents and runs up the sides, behind the panel then down the
center just behind the firewall. The scoop on the left provides fresh air
to the pilot via an SV-5 mounted just forward of the stick, next to the
fuel selector valve. Works *great*, far better than the one on the canopy.
The scoop on the right side also comes down beside the battery, through the
spar and to the rear seat where the SV-5 is mounted adjacent to the pilots
seat belt attachment, near the base of the passengers stick. It also works
*great*. Both are highly recommended. The vent and hoses do not interfere
with the pilots feet. Bill
>
>Does anyone know a good spot for some nasa type vents on an rv-4? I was
>thinking of putting them righ below the canopy skirt on the right side
>of the fuselage. That would be the easiest and flattest area, but I
>wasn't sure if the low pressure from the wing would extend that far up,
>or not. Does anyone here know, or does anyone know of a different type
>vent with a built in adjustment that would fit on a curved surface that
>I could install in the canopy skirt itself? Thanks for any advice.
>Michael
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Touch Up Gun Problem |
Add more thinner like about 2 to 1 ratio and it will come out fine!
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of William H. Watson
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 1997 8:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: Touch Up Gun Problem
Searched the archives, couldn't find any advice....
I use the small Sears touch up gun to spray Sherman Williams wash primer,
1:2 ratio, like Van uses. A lot of the time, when I first start
spraying, the gun sputters and I get a sort of textured finish (looks
awful - intense splatter pattern). Then I get something like cotton
candy or spider webs forming from the spray. Fiddle, fiddle. After
awhile, it seems to clear up, but I never feel like I'm in control of
what's happening. Short of confining my flying to Arizona (no primer),
what should I try/do?
Bill Watson
RV-6A
Emp almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone know how I can get in touch with Rick Robbins (sp).
It's time to install carb and cockpit heat.
I hope it's easier than the cowl and baffels!
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Add more washers and/or spacers as necessary.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of
aol.com!BigCfly001(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 1997 4:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: elevator horn
dear listers,
while fitting my right elevator to the HS I found I had a 1/8inch gap
between the HS 411 assembly and the WD-405 elevator horn.I double checked all
my measurements and they are right on.I understand a washer will go here but
it will not close this gap.is this normal?should i use more than one
washer?please help.
chris marion
rv-6 elevators
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
That's the idea so that it doesn't interfere with the rolling action of the
bearing race cage.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Kelli Lewis
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 1997 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator tube
>Do you have the 5702-75-060 washers installed between
>the bearing and the bracket that is welded on the bottom of the rear
>stick.
>ps These washers have 3/16 ID 5/16 OD and are 1/16" thick.
>
5/16 OD? That is a pretty narrow washer........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Pack Location |
In a message dated 8/17/97 20:53:02, you wrote:
>A fellow with an RV-6A told me he had to move his battery to the baggage for
>W&B purposes and advised me to start out that way. However other have said
>"No don't do it" Without having wt.&bal. form to play with the items. I
>thought I would put the ELT just aft the left seat and the the strobe pack
>on the other side behind the right seat.
Denny, I don't think you would have any problem with this arrangement which
is what I did; however perhaps we can hear from Geo. Orndorff, who has your
exact configuration except for heavy IFR. He has told me he has no baggage
limits.
D Walsh RV-6A, now 47 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator horn |
Chris,
I have almost the same measurements on my elevator horn also (3/32). I
don't see any other way to do it than to fill the space up with one or more
washers. I know others in the past also had to trim the edge of the washer
to make it fit flat due to the weldment around the horn. The plans show
that the tube is not welded on one side to make room for the washer, but
both of mine are welded all the way around.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Phoenix, AZ
RV6a
aligning elevators and rudder, waiting for wings
>
> dear listers,
> while fitting my right elevator to the HS I found I had a 1/8inch gap
>between the HS 411 assembly and the WD-405 elevator horn.I double checked all
>my measurements and they are right on.I understand a washer will go here but
>it will not close this gap.is this normal?should i use more than one
>washer?please help.
>
>chris marion
>rv-6 elevators
>cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz> |
| Subject: | Propellors - 3 blades vs 2 |
In the latest RVator, Klaus Roth's RV-4 is shown on the inside cover. The
caption says that the 3-blade csu prop is a composite - does anyone know
what type it is, and whether it has Van's blessing? I've seen the archives
and discussions, but how many RV's out there have three blade props? What is
the advantages of three blades over two? Matt - how did your three blade
turn out? Do any have the official stamp of approval? On an -8?
'Just Curious in New Zealand and Hopefully Not Asking Any "Dumb" Questions'
aka Chris Hinch
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
Future RV-8 builder
PS - While the Maori name for NZ is Aoteroa, or "Land of the Long White
Cloud", the visibility isn't always like that shown on the cover of the June
97 RVator! *grin*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernesto Sanchez <40106(at)utech.net> |
> >I have noticed several mid time lycoming 0-320 H2AD's for sale at
> >much lower prices than the 0-320 A or E models.
> >What is this H2AD model ??
Check out:
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/C172.ENGINES.html
for a history of this motor.
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernesto Sanchez <40106(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Touch Up Gun Problem |
aol.com!KBoatri144(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I've had the same problem with my touch up gun. After much frustration, I
> read the instructions and found that there is a cork gasket in the gun which
> needs to be oiled periodically to prevent an air leak (I use whatever oil is
> handy..
Any chapped lips sticks are great on gaskets!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
<< Does anyone know how I can get in touch with Rick Robbins (sp).
>>
303-422-9389
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flights |
Squeeze the trailing edge on the aileron of the light wing ( RV-ator August 92).
You might want to check the gear leg fairings if you are flying without
wheel pants.
David Fried
>
>There is one other problem that is not as easy to fix. The aircraft has a
>heavy right wing. This gets worse with airspeed, and at crusing speed
>requires moderate one hand pressure to correct. By the time we were slowed
>down ( this on subsiquent flights with me in the back) the heavyness was
>gone by the time the flaps were put down.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flights |
>
>Listers,
>
>I've waited along time for this,
>
> and I am happy to tell you all that C-FYTQ had its first flight today in
Good to hear it... Congradulations....gives me hope there may light
at the end of the tunnel that isn't a train.
According to the RVator you should "decreasing the trailing edge radius of
the aileron on the LIGHT wing"....I guess should do it.
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator tube |
Kelli Lewis wrote:
>
>
> >ps These washers have 3/16 ID 5/16 OD and are 1/16" thick.
> >
>
> 5/16 OD? That is a pretty narrow washer........
>
That is what they measure, and they are narrow. They are to hold the
rodend bearing off of the bracket that captures the bearing, this allows
the bearing to deflect more from side to side.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator horn |
In a message dated 8/17/97 21:58:36, you wrote:
>while fitting my right elevator to the HS I found I had a 1/8inch gap
>between the HS 411 assembly and the WD-405 elevator horn.I double checked
all
>my measurements and they are right on.I understand a washer will go here but
>it will not close this gap.is this normal?should i use more than one
>washer?please help.
yes, yes, and yes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator tube |
<< 5/16 OD? That is a pretty narrow washer........ >>
It's purpose is to function more as a spacer than a washer and allow greater
torsional rotation than the individual rod end bearings would normally allow.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Van's home Page address? |
Can somebody please forward Van's home page address, or
better yet, an e-mail address to which I can ask specific
operational questions/
Thanks,
Andy Gold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Removeable Air Scoop |
I'm currently fitting the air scoop to the cowling on my -6a, and I'm tempted
to make it removeable by using camloc fasteners instead of bonding it to the
cowl. I recall seeing
a couple of articles where other builders have done this, but I've never
heard any feed back concerning any negative effects from mounting it this
way. The main reasons I want to make it removeable, are to make it easier to
inspect the linkages on the fuel injector more often, and easier removal and
installation of the bottom cowl piece.
Does anyone on the list know of anyone else who has made their scoop
removeable that I could get in touch with?
Mark LaBoyteaux
Mlaboyteau(at)aol.com
RV-6A
N106RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Squealing brakes solution |
A few days ago I posted a request for help trying to solve a
problem with one side of my RV-6A brakes making a loud and
high frequency vibration when ever applied.
There were several suggestions from this list. The most
logical place that you suggested to start was to switch the
pads from side to side to see if the problem was with the pads
themselves or with the remainder of the system.. Obviously, if
the squeal switched to the right side, then the problems were
with the pads, but if they stayed on the left side then the
problem was elsewhere.
Then a day or so later, a neighbor recommended a product called
"disk brake quiet" which is available at most auto parts stores.
Yesterday, at the airport I comitted the trouble
shooter/mechanics biggest sin. In trying to solve the problem I
did numerous fixes at once. The good news is that the problem
is completely solved. The brakes are now quiet and working as
they should. The bad news is that with three individual but
simultaneous fixes, I am not sure which actually was the key
item to solve the problem..
The three things I did were to:
1] swith the right and left calipers (inside and outside) from the
right to the left side.
2] Apply the "disk brake quiet" to each side.
3] sprayed some graphite lubricant on the pins that ride within
the slots of the brake set-up. I noticed that upon inspection
that even after just 10 hours of operation that the surface of
the pins were becoming somewhat marred, perhaps from a lack
of lubrication.
Because the problem completely dissappeared, I believe that
just switching the pads over was not the solution. Therefore I
give most of the credit to the "disk brake quiet". This stuff is a
rubberized compound that comes in a 4-5 ounce container (about
$4.00) that spreads like gasket silicone between the plunger
and the inner calliper. Supposedly it is thick enough to dampen
any vibrations that may be present in the system and eliminate
the squeal which definitely was caused by a vibration of some
sort.
Either way, everything is fixed, and I can now proceed with the
next item on my 2 pages of squaks. (how do you spell that?)
I suppose thats why they call 'em Experimentals.
Andy Gold
RV-6A 5060
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Propellors - 3 blades vs 2 |
<< What is the advantages of three blades over two? >>
I have a Performance 3-blade prop on my 6. It is pitched for cruise RPM
(2650 @ 8000'). It is VERY smooth and quiet. I don't think that it
accelerates or climbs as well as a two blade prop although it shows 2450
RPM's on takeoff (1200 to 1600 fpm depending on load and temp.) With 160 HP
I get a top speed of 173 Kts and a best power cruise of 166 Kts TAS.
This prop gives me what I was looking for, mostly a smooth and quiet prop.
Based on what I have seen with the other RV's in my area, the Sensenich prop
gives the best performance however, it is a metal prop so it does vibrate
more than a wood prop. The three other RV-4's in my hangar all traded in
their wood props (Pacesetter and Warnkie) for the Sensenich. They out run me
by 2 to 5 Kts and really out climb me. I'm not sure if this is a function of
the prop or that they are in 4's and I'm in a 6. One thing is for sure...I'm
more comfortable.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | swapped engine parts |
I had reached the point of taxi tests when nagging indiscepencies finally
started falling in place. My 800 SN engine had the cylinders swapped,
painted and a forgery placed in the log book to cover the mechanic while the
engine had been in storage. The mags had been swapped, the oil filter
removed as well as other parts. As a first time buyer I hadn't noticed
this. My attention was on the log book which told only of a flawless
childhood. Twenty four pounds compression in #3 caught my attention though.
It will be very difficult to prove much. I'll be relying on the intregrity
of the seller, who had trusted his mechanic, to compensate for the
differences. Nine thousand is an expensive core. I've also learned that
cylinders don't come in matched sets, even from the factory, and that the
serial numbers on the case are designed to be easily removed(should they be
used for another O/H). When pulling an engine, shops don't pull cylinders
to preserve them, nor do engines smell of fresh paint ("just sprayed a bit
of solvent on it to clean it up a bit, probably softened the paint some").
My situation is apparently not uncommon. Call a few cylinder rebuilders.
Someone is probably wondering why his top end overhaul only lasted 1200
hours, "you never know with these engines, I've seen them go 3000 hours or
just 1000 hours",( yeah, right, should of used single weight oil!). So
N3773 is back to being a bunch of sheet metal and rivets and VERY tail
heavy. Just discovered another pro for alternative engines, A&P's don't
steal them. kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Rib Alignment |
For those who are getting ready to skin their wings, here's a tip that
might help:
You cleco your main wing skins on, look through the holes, only to find
the little black line is not centered. You reach through, move the rib
a little...but by the time you're ready to drill, one or more ribs have
moved.
Prior to clecoing on your skins, drill the hole through the spar and the
rib flange while you can see the alignment. Then, when you cleco the
skin in place, the cleco will hold the rib in place, and each rib will
retain its general alignment. Any adjustment to find the centerline
mark should be minimal.
Unfortunately, I thought of this too late to do me much good, but maybe
it'll help someone else.
--Don McNamara
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Jackson <denny(at)transport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flights |
joehine wrote:
......
> There is one other problem that is not as easy to fix. The aircraft has a
> heavy right wing. This gets worse with airspeed, and at crusing speed
> requires moderate one hand pressure to correct. .......
I had the same problem on my -4. Decrease the trailing edge radius on
the light aileron and/or increase the radius on the heavy one. Believe
it or not this can be done by laying a 2x4 or similar straight object
against the trailing edge and carefully whacking it with a ball peen.
Be gentle!
Also Jerry VanGrunsven gave me a tip that might be relevant. He said to
check the vertical alignment of the right and left ailerons to see if
you might have one hinge bracket slightly off. This would change the
aileron gap and it will make a big difference in the force the aileron
exerts. If it is off a little you can elongate the bracket mounting
holes to move it and then drill another hole for a locking bolt to
prevent movement.
Also check your ball for proper rudder trim. The rudder incidence will
only be correct at one airspeed. Most RV's require a trim tab on the
rudder to center the ball at cruising speed. If the ball is off center,
the wing dihedral will contribute some rolling force. Good luck.
DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John C. Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: new rv fuel tank sealant |
Dave,
My sealant was sent to me from Van's in February so I assume it was
the new stuff. There wasn't any indication of "Proseal" on the label.
My tanks were sealed according to the Justice procedures in 80 degree
ambient temperature. All surfaces to be sealed were roughed up with
emery paper(med grit), washed with soap and water, and cleaned with
MEK. It cured solid overnight. Work time was about 1 hour after mixing.
I mixed by color with a charcoal grey the desired finished color. The
material spread well by using 3/8 inch utility(acid) brushes with the
bristles cut to 1/4 inch in length.
A leak test, conducted 1 week after all assembly was completed and
after a few rivets were shaved flush with the skin, showed no leaks. The
material was stiff but pliable.
Hope this helps,
Best regards,
John, RV6A, working on flaps; fuselage rcvd last week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | 0-360 operational limits |
My next queries regard operational limits on the 0-360 engine.
Basically, I would like to know what they are? I have asked
these questions of several people, all of whom I admire as
excellent and experienced pilots and mechanics. However each
of them had different opinions and no one really knew what the
"official" answers should be.
I'm now wondering if there even are actual answers, or if the
state of our collective knowledge is still guesses and "that
seems to work for me" type responses.
1] What is meant by 2750 rpm red line. Is this an absolute
never exceed because your engine will blow up within 5 minutes
type number? Although I've heard lots of people who claim to
routinely operate above this so-called limit.
Next; Is it bad for the engine to run near this speed. In other
words is 2600-2700 rpm quickly wearing out the engine or
drastically lowering the expected TBO. Or is it best for the
engine to run down in the 2200 - 2400 range?
I fly from a high altitude airport (8200') and must immediately
climb to at least 10,-11,000' after take off (or, 13,000 -
14,000' if I want to go anywhere) Therefore manifold pressure
is always low. I rarely see much more than 18-19". Increasing
throttle does little but increase rpm. So 2500 rpm + 18" =
about 60% power. I can add power and get the rpm up to
2700-2800 which brings me up to about 70%. But I'm
wondering if this is bad for the engine even though manifold
pressures are down. I've heard people say that engines which
operate at low manifold pressures due to high density altitudes
seem to last longer because of less internal stress? Any
opinions (or facts) about that?
2] Next, what are proper Oil temp and Oil pressure figures?
What is best for the engine and at what point should these
values become a concern?
3] Same for EGT and CHT? What is considered a safe range
and where should I become concerned? How about the extent
of differential reading for different cylinders?
4] Finally, what are the proper procedures for leaning the
engine. If by the EGT guage, how long does it take the gauge to
respond to mixture adjustments. and therefore should I slowly
pull the mixture one click at a time over a 5-10 minute period and
set the mixture in that way. Or is the correct procedure to pull
the mixture until the engine begins to stumple and then push it
back in a "few" clicks. By the way this is a procedure which I am
not real comfortable with; pulling the mixture until the engine
"almost quits". Do I need to just "get comfortable with it" or is
there a better way?
Thanks, I appreciate your answers or at least a refferral of
whom else I can ask.
Andy Gold
RV-6A N-5060
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | taildragger fly-in |
dear listers'
on saturday,august 30&31 waynesville airport/EAA 284 will be hosting their
annual taildragger fly-in.this year spend an evening with Duan Cole,"the dean
of aerobatics" in a free program 7pm sat.fly-in breakfast 7am sun.he will be
book signing all day sun.there will be a fly market,judging best
homebuilt,classic,antique and contemporary aircraft.
I've attended this fly-in for several years and there are always alot of
nice aircraft,including RV's.this is where i first fell in love with the
RV.if anyones interested in attending and need more info e-mail me off the
list.
chris marion
RV-6 finishing r-elevator
cincy oh
BigCfly001(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ShelbyRV6A(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Propellors - 3 blades vs 2 |
In a message dated 8/18/97 5:29:06 PM, you wrote:
<>
While at Oshkosh, one of the most intriguing products I found was the new
prop being developed in Starkeville, MS in conjunction with NASA. My
understaniding is that it flexes(Composite) thus working better than a metal
prop that does not flex. It reportedly is 16 decibels quieter than a
Sensenich prop and much smoother. It is somewhat S shaped.
Downside. $3500 for 160 hp version.
Shelby in Nashville.
RV6a -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ShelbyRV6A(at)aol.com |
Since there doesn't or hasn't been much discussion of this, I thought now
might be a good time to start a thread.
It is an interesting plane. They seemed to have done a pretty good job of
thinking through most of the issues. The canopy will need some improvement(I
think in the works). I still favor a trike. I also am not sure how passengers
respond to flying backwards.(A VW dealer told me once that the Vanagons with
rear facing seats made passengers sick). I am also not to excited about
burning 14-15 gallons an hour. By the way Ken Scott was ask on short notice
to announce during the RV fly-over. Considering this was his first time to
speak to 100K plus people, he did a good job. The lead announcer asked what
Van thought of the 4 place RV-6 - Ken didn't miss a beat as he changed the
subject.
I also think Van's time would have been better spent on a project such as
this rather than a beefed up RV-4 as in the RV-8. An RV-8 will never be as
attractive as a Harmon Rocket of which there were several very nice examples
at Oshkosh. My apologies to the 8 builders, but I think too much of Van's
resources are being devoted to that plane.
Shelby in Nashvillle.
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's home Page address? |
>
>Can somebody please forward Van's home page address, or
>better yet, an e-mail address to which I can ask specific
>operational questions/
>
Andy, try support(at)vansaircraft.com
Have a good one!
Denny,
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage-top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
You can add some extra rivets with the proper edge distance between the too
close ones.
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of David Wheaton
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 6:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: HS Forward Spar
After I built up the front spar in the HS, I noticed that three of the four
rivet holes through the HS 610 (smaller aluminum angle) on each of the spar
tongues do not have the proper 2D edge distance (1/4"). The worst case
edge distance is 1/16" shy of the 2D required. I cut only enough of the
flange of the spar to get rid of the bend and then centered the 614 and 610
on the spar with the proper 3 and 1/4" spacing. I also made sure that the
614 and 610 did not protrude above the spar flanges. Anyway, that's how I
did it and now I don't have the proper edge distance on the 610.
Has anyone done this? And what did you do about it. Redo?
Dave Wheaton
rv6 Rosamond, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flights |
Congratulations, its a great feeling.
My aircraft also had a heavy R wing, and I squeezed the trailing edge of the
L aileron which was an instant cure. I could not believe how a gentle
squeeze could make such a big diference. I also had the radio quit during
the first flight, mine just slid a little out of its tray.
I now have 70 hours on C GDOC, including trips to New York (Tetaboro) and
Winnipeg, and the flying characteristics are just as fabulous as everyone says.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Weller <myaccount(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Which O-360? |
>Hi Guys
>
>My mechanic has talked me into using an O-360 on my RV-8. I plan to buy a
>core and overhaul it with new cylinders and use a constant speed prop. Does
>anyone have an opinion on which dash number(s) of O-360 would work best?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rob Miller
>Fuse on the way
>
Rob and all,
I plan to use either an IO- or O-360. My only experience is with the -A1A
versions. That is my choice right now. The only problem that I had was
with sticking exhaust valves. Marvel Mystery oil was a solution, but that's
a whole other thread.
The summer heat here in Alabama has put a stop to building my RV-8 emp. I
look forward to going full speed ahead with my project after a short
vacation in a couple of weeks. It will be really neat to show something to
my friends that at least looks like part of an airplane. Nobody but a
builder (and my wife) would appreciate the amount of work that I've done to
get to this point
I look forward to hearing about your work and choices that you make.
Mike Weller RV-8 (under construction)
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flights |
Joe I don't remember any adjustment to the trailing edgeof the aileron that
will fix a wing heavy condition. I also would not broadcast that the plane
was flying with two people in it during the restriction fly off time. I'm
sure this wasn't the case and was just a misprint. Enjoy your plane and have
a great day.
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Thanks, Bill
That is where I already put the one for the front seat. I still have to
figure out about the hole through the spar for the rear seat vent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Does the plane need to be signed off by an a/p before the faa inspects
it or, just after the inspection and before the first flight? Also, I
would like to check the airspeed indicator. I have the lines sealed so
it doesn't leak down but I need to know how many inches of water in the
tube equals how many mph on the indicator. Also, I was wondering about
safety wire and lock nuts. All the controls have lock nuts on the
bolts, none has safety wire. And, what about the prop bolts? These have
no provision for safety wires. Are the lock nuts okay without safety
wire? One last thing. Does a composite prop wear in rain like a wood
prop? Thanks, Michael..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 operational limits |
Andy,
One interesting web page on engines is: http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/
I don't know if it will answer any of your questions but it's an interesting
and informative site.
I'd give Lycoming a call for the info you seek. They should be able to
answer all of your questions.
I think it's generally accepted that an engine can run all day at a
redline of 2,700 over 8,000 feet. At 8,000 or over, the engine can't
develop over 75% power (normally aspirated). Of course, lower rpms should
lessen wear. I would think that a constant speed would be of real value to
you considering your airport elevation. I sure wish I had a C.S. on my six.
My next one will.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>My next queries regard operational limits on the 0-360 engine.
>1] What is meant by 2750 rpm red line. Is this an absolute
>Andy Gold
>RV-6A N-5060
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 operational limits |
You said--
> My next queries regard operational limits on the 0-360 engine.
> Basically, I would like to know what they are? I have asked
>
> Andy Gold
> RV-6A N-5060
Dear Andy,
Lycoming sells an operating handbook with just this info for only $13.00.
Amazingly cheap. Contact your local Lyc. shop or Lyc directly.
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellors - 3 blades vs 2 |
>
> While at Oshkosh, one of the most intriguing products I found was the new
> prop being developed in Starkeville, MS in conjunction with NASA. My
> understaniding is that it flexes(Composite) thus working better than a
metal
> prop that does not flex. It reportedly is 16 decibels quieter than a
> Sensenich prop and much smoother. It is somewhat S shaped.
>
> Downside. $3500 for 160 hp version.
>
> Shelby in Nashville.
> RV6a -
>
This is a very interesting prop with a Scimitar planform. I spoke at
length with the company (a friend works there) and they are intending to
offer one for the RV-6/ 6A first before the certificated prop. The only
question is weather they will optomize the prop for the -6 or just use the
one that they developed for their airplane. The only problem is that it's
design speed range is about 20 mph slower than the RV-6 so it may not be as
efficient at high speeds.
This prop is truely unique with a constantly changing pitch and airfoil
section from root to tip. It could give Sensenich and Hartzel a run. BTW
it is supposed to be MORE efficient than a constant speed prop, and is only
19 lbs. complete.
Dan Morris
Only the canopy left.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernesto Sanchez <40106(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6+ 4 place |
aol.com!ShelbyRV6A(at)matronics.com wrote:
> An RV-8 will never be as
> attractive as a Harmon Rocket of which there were several very nice examples
at Oshkosh.
Are Harmon rockets modified RV's??
Ernesto Sanchez
es12043(at)utech.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | klaus.roth(at)med.siemens.de |
Importance: normal
| Subject: | Propellors - 3 blades vs 2 |
charset = ISO-8859-1;
Type = Text;
x-dmw-oid = 2A864886F70F0301;
x-dmw-btname = "PlainText"
Hello Chris,
I choosed the prop due to our strict regulation of noise emission here
in Germany.
I wanted to have a constant speed prop and I know that a composite
prop is quieter than a metal prop. I can compare with a two blade
Hartzell on a Husky A1. (With a constant speed prop I can
control the rpm and with this the noise )
I hope to achieve a noise level of 66.8 dB(A) with my prop
(at 24 inch manifold/2200rpm) and two exhaust mufflers.
The prop comes from "mt-propeller" (Muehlbauer) here in Germany
and I am very satisfied with it.
I have a Lycoming O-360-A1A and I get a climbrate of 2400 ft/min
with this combination.
Just a few days ago I achieved a flight level of 24 000 ft and I could
climb further. (I had 200 ft/min in this flight level)
Best regards
Klaus Roth
Germany
RV-4, D-ERKR
----------
Von: "owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com"@LOCAL
An: "rv-list "@LOCAL
Betreff: RV-List: Propellors - 3 blades vs 2
Datum: Montag, 18. August 1997 06:46
<>
In the latest RVator, Klaus Roth's RV-4 is shown on the inside cover. The
caption says that the 3-blade csu prop is a composite - does anyone know
what type it is, and whether it has Van's blessing? I've seen the
archives
and discussions, but how many RV's out there have three blade props? What
is
the advantages of three blades over two? Matt - how did your three blade
turn out? Do any have the official stamp of approval? On an -8?
'Just Curious in New Zealand and Hopefully Not Asking Any "Dumb"
Questions'
aka Chris Hinch
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
Future RV-8 builder
PS - While the Maori name for NZ is Aoteroa, or "Land of the Long White
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: trim/throttle cables |
Alan, Another person answered, but typically you need to run a file over
the little ball to elongate the hole it is in to get it to drop out. So the
process is:
Push the knob all the way in.
Remove the green cable from the vernier section by unscrewing the nut where
the green cable attaches to the vernier.
Disconnect the center of the cable from the vernier section with a 90 degree
rotation.
Unscrew the vernier knob or press on the center of the knob and pull the
center section out.
The ball will be visible on the shaft. Sometimes it falls out and is
immediately lost, but only if you want to retain the vernier function. If
you want to disable the vernier, the ball will not fall out. Usually you
can get the ball out by depressing the center of the knob and taking the
edge of a file and running it over the hole the ball resides in. When the
ball finally pops out, reassemble the cable without the ball. It now makes
a very nice friction lock cable. Bill
>
>Does anyone know how to remove the ball from the Van's vernier
>trim/throttle cable to make it operate smoother??
>
>Alan Chappelow
>Empennage complete in 134 hours
>Waiting for wing kit next week
>Question is for another RV-6 owner
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's home Page address? |
Vans can be reached at several addresses. Some of them are listed on the
back of the Accessories catalog. As someone else mentioned,
will work, or using a few less keys, you can
reach us at . Take your pick, but they all show up at the
europa address. Bill
>
>Can somebody please forward Van's home page address, or
>better yet, an e-mail address to which I can ask specific
>operational questions/
>
>Thanks,
>Andy Gold
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Sensenich prop and more HP |
RV-listers,
I am considering having one of the "more HP" shops 'improve'
my Lyc. O-320 when it is being rebuilt (basically flowed heads and more
compression) and asked Sensenich if this would affect the 2600 rpm limit on
their metal prop.
I thought others might be interested in the reply - which is
published with permission. Remember that the certification for reduced
fly-off time is for an engine/prop combination, and my mods. will
definitely fall outside this 'certified' definition.
thanks .... Gil (more HP at 2600) Alexander
RV6A, #20701, N64GA (rsvd.) finish kit
PS I was impressed with the response from Sensenich - the delay refered to
below was only two days.
PPS I also bought the Sensenich RV6 metal spinner six months ago. A
nicely constructed unit that is already aligned, prop clearance cut, holes
drilled and has nutplates already mounted. Much better that the sloppy
holes that seem to be somewhat prevalent in the factory glass spinners
after some time in service.
***************************************************************
From: Buddy Sessoms
Subject: Sensenich Prop
I am sorry that the reply took so long, but you can use our 70CM prop on
your modified engine. We cannot give you any "official" go ahead since
this is a certified prop.
We can tell you that our computer models do not show any problems.
The vibrations for this rotating system are known as a function of RPM.
Obviously HP and thus manifold pressure have an effect, but we feel that
small HP changes play a minor part in vibratory stresses for this
installation.
Good luck on you project and I hope to see you at one of the fly-ins.
Buddy
Aeronautical Engineer
Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing
***************************************************************
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flights |
aol.com!RV6Russ(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Joe I don't remember any adjustment to the trailing edgeof the aileron
> that will fix a wing heavy condition.
Lightly squeezing the trailing edge of the aileron opposite of the heavy
wing will fix the heavy wing situation. I would check out all other
options first though such as flaps are both set the same, one or two
degrees difference will make a difference in the way it flies.
Just remember not to squeeze very much it takes very little to make
a difference.
> I also would not broadcast that the plane was flying with two people
> in it during the restriction fly off time. I'm sure this wasn't the
> case and was just a misprint.
This topic seems to keep poping up and I used to be against taking
two people on the first flight and still am from a standpoint of
if there is a problem why risk two people. BUT the operating
limitations say not to take two people unless they are necessary
for the *FLIGHT*, it does not say unless two people are necessary to
*OPERATE THE AIRPLANE*. Despite what some FAA people will tell you
it is OK to take two people if you feel it is necessary for a safe
flight.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi Shelby,
I think that I would have bought the RV-8 instead of the RV-6A
if the RV-8 had been available. I like the design.
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
<<>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 operational limits |
Hi Andy and all,
>
> 1] What is meant by 2750 rpm red line. Is this an absolute
> never exceed because your engine will blow up within 5 minutes
> type number? Although I've heard lots of people who claim to
> routinely operate above this so-called limit.
> Next; Is it bad for the engine to run near this speed. In other
> words is 2600-2700 rpm quickly wearing out the engine or
> drastically lowering the expected TBO. Or is it best for the
> engine to run down in the 2200 - 2400 range?
The red line is a point which the designer of the engine has not
designed his engine to go beyond. I would not go beyond it for
two reasons:
1 - It is naughty.
2 - Horsepower output will decline. At least that is usually the
case - maximum horsepower is produced at a speed at or below the
red line.
Oh, I should caution you that I am not a Lycoming expert :-)
There is more stress on the engine components as RPM increases.
Operate within recommended parameters. More stress from operating
at 2600 RPM versus 2300 RPM is probably ok just as pressing on a
stone wall with your thumb does not do the wall any more harm than
pressing with your little finger as both are below the limit for
the stone wall.
Don't you get better fuel economy at a lower setting? Oh, I see,
you are always up high.
> I fly from a high altitude airport (8200') and must immediately
> climb to at least 10,-11,000' after take off (or, 13,000 -
> 14,000' if I want to go anywhere) Therefore manifold pressure
> is always low. I rarely see much more than 18-19". Increasing
> throttle does little but increase rpm. So 2500 rpm + 18" =
> about 60% power. I can add power and get the rpm up to
> 2700-2800 which brings me up to about 70%. But I'm
> wondering if this is bad for the engine even though manifold
> pressures are down. I've heard people say that engines which
> operate at low manifold pressures due to high density altitudes
> seem to last longer because of less internal stress? Any
> opinions (or facts) about that?
Pressures and stresses are much less at high altitude but still
I'd stay below the red line.
I spend a lot of my flying over high country. My RV-6A will most
likely have a Chevy V6 of about 240 HP. I won't use that down low
as I don't know what effect it will have on the airframe. Where I
want to use the power is up high. At 8000 ft I will be able to
firewall it and have 75% of 240 or about 180HP! If I had a 160HP
Lycoming, it would be down to 120HP.
Manifold pressure will be low - but the "LAN" will make up for it.
I refer to the formula for HP = PLANk where P is pressure, A the
area on top of the pistons, L the length of the stroke, N is the
RPM and k is a constant. If P drops the HP drops.
My Debonair has a set of performance tables. One way to get the
mixture right is to use the tables.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbalbierer(at)nysyr.ang.af.mil |
| Subject: | 5 Point Harness For Sale |
charset=US-ASCII
To anyone interested:
I have two Brand New 5 point safety harness sets for sale(never used).
3" lap belt and 2" shoulder harness. They are new from WAG Aero normally
$160 per set that I will sell for $250 for both sets. I will also provide
a drawing that I used for a 5th point attachment(crotch strap) on my RV-6.
Please call or e-mail me directly:
John Balbierer
(315) 622-3846
jbalbierer(at)nysyr.ang.af.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
(datastar.net!lottmc(at)matronics.com)
| Subject: | Re: faa inspection |
> Also, I would like to check the airspeed indicator. I have the
> lines sealed so it doesn't leak down but I need to know how many
> inches of water in the tube equals how many mph on the indicator.
The formula to use is:
airspeed in mph = square root of (inches of water times 1980.0)
This formula was derived from a set of data gathered empirically. The
formula is optimized (i.e. most accurate) at 100mph. At 100mph, the
data shows a speed of 100 knots (not mph) equals 6.56 pressure inches
of water. The formula will produce an error of around +2 mph at 150
mph, and -1.5 mph at 70 mph.
I got this information from an old Kitplanes article written by Jim
Weir. He's got it posted (sadly, as a TIFF image - I can't easily
forward it to this list) on his website http://www.rst.com
The actual data measurements, if you want real accuracy, are printed
in the article.
He gives a tip for easier reading of the water level - add a drop of
soap to reduce the meniscus.
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Pack Location |
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>I'm pondering the location of the American ELT and the Whelan strobe. I
have 160HP C/S with an light IFR panel.
A fellow with an RV-6A told me he had to move his battery to the baggage
for
W&B purposes and advised me to start out that way. However other have
said
"No don't do it" Without having wt&bal form to play with the items. I
thought I would put the ELT just aft the left seat and the the strobe
pack
on the other side behind the right seat.<
Denny, with your situation I can't see that you will have a CG problem.
I have a 6A with a 160/metal FP installation and my empty CG is just a
hair behind the front limit. I can't even load to the aft CG without
going WAY over the baggage weight limit. In short, I can NOT load my
airplane outside of either limit. I certainly wouldn't put my battery in
the baggage compartment before I weighed the aircraft.
BTW, I did exactly what you suggest; the ELT and strobe pack are located
behind the seats. Works out very well, and is easy to install.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squealing brakes solution |
Andy:
> The three things I did were to:
> 1] swith the right and left calipers (inside and outside) from the
> right to the left side.
>
> 2] Apply the "disk brake quiet" to each side.
>
> 3] sprayed some graphite lubricant on the pins that ride within
> the slots of the brake set-up. I noticed that upon inspection
> that even after just 10 hours of operation that the surface of
> the pins were becoming somewhat marred, perhaps from a lack
> of lubrication.
I think you're right that the "disk brake quiet" product is
mostly responsible for the cure. The squealing is a harmonic,
and the rubbery compound changes the natural frequency of the
assembly, and dampens it.
Switching pads isn't really a very good idea. The pads "bed in"
to the profile of the rotor, and shouldn't be switched after
that. (The rotors aren't be perfectly shaped.) Could cause the
brakes to be "grabby."
On a car with disk brakes, it seems to help to use the brakes
hard once in a while. I've cured brake squeal in cars this
way lots of times. You want to be careful doing that on an
airplane, though.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
tedd(at)idacom.hp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: swapped engine parts |
Kevin Lane wrote a sad story about buying a "good" 800 SNEW Lycoming that turned
out to
have some of its parts substituted with worn out ones and logbooks forged.
When things get very expensive, crooks appear and these things happen. I heard
of another case where a builder bought a Lycoming core, with no warranties, for
rebuilding. On teardown it was found to have an unusable crankshaft, a very
expensive part. I don't think I'd buy a core without a guarantee of the
usability of crank and case.
At least we don't have to worry much about bogus parts. I read somewhere that
the airlines, whose parts cost ten times what ours do, is a preferred market.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel stuff
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Does anyone on the list have a Rochester, electric oil temp. sender
sitting on the bench that they won't need for a few weeks and, if so, would
you be willing to loan it to me for a couple of weeks (travel time
included). I have a fluctuating (?) needle and it seems like switching
senders would be an easy way to trouble shoot the problem. If you have one
and would be willing to lend it to me, contact me off-list, please.
Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Weller <myaccount(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6+ 4 place |
>
>Since there doesn't or hasn't been much discussion of this, I thought now
>might be a good time to start a thread.
>
Sounds good so far.
>I also think Van's time would have been better spent on a project such as
>this rather than a beefed up RV-4 as in the RV-8. An RV-8 will never be as
>attractive as a Harmon Rocket of which there were several very nice examples
August 07, 1997 - August 19, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-df