RV-Archive.digest.vol-dq
November 03, 1997 - November 13, 1997
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I agree about stopping this thread.
Lets remember also that for all their shortcomings, AOPA and EAA are our
best shots at advocating our interests at the state and federal levels.
The politicos can't help but pay attention to a million-flyer army.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
... making imperceptible progress on the RV-6A fuselage ...
-----Original Message-----
<<<<< .... our sports and interest are threatened. Lets stop
this here . .... >>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A fuselage floor |
Hello Listers,
I recall that in time past there was a suggestion that the .063x3/4x3/4
angles called out for the floor stiffeners between the firewall and the
F-604 be replaced (beefed up) by .125x3/4x3/4 angles.
For those of you who are flying an RV-6 or 6A, please advise whether I
should use the lighter angles or the heavier angles.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivoprop VP Magnum prop (was Ivoprop cheap shot) |
Our machines need to have a
> certain Abuse Tolerence built into them and I fear the Ivos are not up to the
> job in the longhaul. JR.
>
Just for the record JR I know of two IVO Magnum props that have been
sent back because of the cracking problems, and the people say they
will never run them again. We should not have to worry so much about
installing and putting tape on the hub to *see* if the blades are
moving. As Bob Nucholls has pointed out so many times we should
not accept a product from the manufacture that is not top notch
right out of the box rather it be radios or props.
Someone else does not agree with your abuse factor statement, I do,
why else are airplanes over designed? It is the abuse factor...
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>I plan to use fuel filters before the selector valve as you suggested.
>My problem is deciding which type of filter to use. What are you?
>
>Frank Smidler
>RV-6 with wings and landing gear on but still in the basement.
>
I have seen several installation adn most of the guys told me they
bought theirs thru ASC for $8.50 each.
Have a good one.
Denny RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <AndersonE(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda Rotary? |
Hi Charlie,
Did answer you questions, but must have got lost in the RV-List
someplace. Was running the engine at 5000 RPM getting 2300 RPM static
thrust which the prop manufacture stated indicated a strong 165HP. No dry
sump, using a made up oil pan from Ross Aero which simply rotates the oil
pick up so it picks up oil from the new orientation - works fine.
I clobbered up a fuel injection system using auto parts including an
EFI computer that you tune from a lap top computer while engine is running.
The EFI computer is made by HALTECH who have been around in the auto
hot-roding arena for a while.
The engine is mounted on a reworked RV-6 lycoming mount. Basically kept all
the attachment points, nose gear and reworked the engine attachment area to
match the Mazda engine attachment points.
I don't have anyway to get photos on e mail media, but send me your mailing
address and I will ship you some photographs.
Ed
----------
From: Charlie Kuss
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mazda Rotary?
Date: Saturday, November 01, 1997 12:18AM
Anderson Ed wrote:
Snipped
> Charlie,
> One additional thing concerning the Mazda installation. I do have my
> engine rotated 90 degrees so that the exhaust ports point down,
> Soooo, that's about all unless you have further questions.
Ed,
Yeh, now I have lots more questions. Are you running some sort of dry
sump system? Could you email me any photos of your installation? Is the
engine carburated or fuel injected? What type & brand of fuel system is
used? How is the engine mounted?
Did I not receive one of your posts? This is the first reply I've gotten
from you. You still haven't answered my original questions. See below.
Thanks in advance
Charlie
> From: Charlie Kuss
> To: rv-list
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mazda Rotary?
> Date: Thursday, October 30, 1997 8:55PM
>
>
> Anderson Ed wrote:
> snipped
>
> I have a Maza Rotary running in an RV-6A (awaiting FAA inspection).
> You will hear all sort of claims and disclaimers, exaggerated
>
> Ed,
> How hard are you twisting it's tail? (What RPM does it take to make
> 165HP?) Please elaborate on modifications, if any, to the engine. I have
> a friend with a Cosy 4. He is having a mutual friend fabricate a
> firewall forward (rearward? in this case) package, based on Tracy's
> information.
>
> Charlie Kuss
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switch |
>Bob made a comment about us being smarter consumers. Products are existant,
>because of the rules of supply and demand. If we demand adequate protection,
>without the addition of a switch, you'd think some of these brilliant people
>could come up with such a solution.
>
>Regards
>
>Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
>
>PS. Bob, I know you really get no challenge from someone who agrees with you,
>but in this case, I simply could not help myself. The American consumer gets
>what he gets, simply because he is willing to put up with the B.S. that the
>American Manufacturer wants to sell him.
Wendell,
I'm not sure it's as bad as all that . . . I believe that all the big guys
and most of the little guys understand DO-160 testing and choose to observe
it. I've been doing it for over 20 years and didn't know there was any
controversy about it until I started working with little airplanes again.
So far, I've found no documentation published by any manufacturer that
voids a warranty "if no avionics master is installed" and the wordage
forwarded to me so far uses terms like "recommended" and "suggested".
The needed protection is there and has been there for a long time.
I've got to believe these are carry-overs from deeply entrenched beliefs
from times gone by. It's always hard to sign up to a concept that is not
well understood. Obviously, a sure way to "protect" is to "isolate" and
there's an intuitive wisdom here that's hard to uproot. Unless one chooses
to be a student of history, evolution and current state of the art (I have
to . . . it's my business) then intuitive wisdom wins out over facts
every time.
I like folks to understand that I'm not against the AVM's avowed purpose
but
I don't like the false sense of security it gives. There needs to be two
totally independent way to power goodies you'd like to have lit up from
the
battery. Whether or not an AVM sits in one of the paths is totally
irrelevant.
I do suggest the diode be kept in the AVM's power path as a hedge against
simple human factors concerns.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Avionics Master Switch |
>Bob, I knew I would get a response from you on this.
>
>1. I've already provided for panel lighting along with clock power
through a
>direct 1 amp fused circuit.
Good, I'd not though of that one . . .
>2. I agree that a single switch is single failure point. However, I do use
>MS grade switches, not cheap hardware or automotive type. It would also
carry
>the normal avionics load, which is more than either an essential bus
switch or
>second source switch would normally do. Of course either could be
periodially
>exercised to prevent contact oxidation, etc., as is recommended.
Does MS grade mean it never fails?
>3. I guess you agree that diodes do fail. And like you said, the only way
>your going to know that is by doing a preflight check, just like you could a
>switch.
They do fail . . . haven't seen one do it in a whole lot of years tho.
>4. I quess you got me. I can't come up with a way to connect every
>electrical item with switches, wires, bus bars, etc, that doesn't constitute
>some single failure point in any system.
Doesn't the technique I recommended do this? I don't know if you've
seen any of our published drawings but they've been pretty well combed
out to reduce single points of failure . . . . there are some, obviously,
like the wire could come off a battery post . . . but the number of such
risks are very low.
> Better send me your diodes and I'll
>do the best I can to wire up those switches so I CAN HAVE AN AVIONICS MASTER!
>
Be pleased to do that . . . Dee sez you're a subscriber . . . we'll
drop one in the mail to you today.
>Many thanks for clearing this up.
>
My pleasure . . .
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | caummisa(at)arn.net (Richard Caummisar) |
| Subject: | Re: Newt comment--- |
I subscribe to the RV list and another SAFETY LIST. I had to do a double
take to see that this post was on the RV list. Strange to see this topic
discussed
here.
But, I take exception to the comment that OSHA can enter at will. You, the
owner/employer can refuse OSHA admittance, but it will only delay the
inevitable.
OSHA will get a federal warrant quick and be back within a couple of days,
usually
in a not so charitable mood.
I've heard it said that your findings and fine, go up in direct proportion
to how
pissed off the OSHA inspector is.
Play nice. Protect people and the environment.
>
>
><< Spoke to a RV builder at Copperstate from
> California who said the state EPA had a goal to become more feared than the
> IRS. >>
>
>For those of you who don't know it, the EPA and OSHA, both have more power
>than the IRS. They can enter company premises, or, "YOUR" property for an
>inspection, and they don't have to ask your permission. Even the FBI has to
>get a search warrant, and have probable cause.
>
>Read a book called "Whatever Happened to the American Dream," by Larry
>Burkett, and then pick up a copy of "The Death of Common Sense," by Phillip K.
>Howard. In these two books, yo may see what the EPA, and OSHA, are doing to
>those of us who are pursuing the American Dream.
>
>Al Gore likes the EPA, real good.
>
>Regards
>
>Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick_Smith(at)brahms2.tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: dumping acid/alodine rinse bucket |
Gentlemen,
The toxicity of the alodine (chromic acid solution) is not nearly as great
as the general public is led to believe. What makes it react so well with
aluminium also causes it to be tied up indefinately in the first soil
deposit it encounters. (silt in drainpipes) It is true that the Maximum
Allowable Contaminate Level for trivalent chromium is relatively low, 0.5
ppm in soil, this number is based on the worst case scenairio which is
daily exposure for 70-years that is capable of causing 1 extra fatality per
million exposures. Keep in mind that you get 65 mcd per day of chromium
from your Centrum! In regards to the acid etch the best disposal practice
is to convert it to harmless salts by exposing it to lime which is what
they do at hazardous waste disposal facilities. I have a 30-foot long
treatment pad in front of my house that I part my car on that works well
for this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bright <john(at)catlover.com> |
| Subject: | electric drill/countersinking |
Electric drill/countersinking:
I've seen messages about use of electric drills and that they are slower
than air. Also messages about countersinking and chips gouging the work.
I used an electric drill to countersink in one step for -4 rivets and got
no gouging. With air I couldn't prevent gouging.
Hope this helps.
John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john(at)catlover.com, RV-6/6A 25088 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bright <john(at)catlover.com> |
Paint "booth":
I used an 8' closet organizer shelf made of wire, it looks like a grill,
put a 36" high sheetrock skirt around it (three-sided, other is garage
wall) and pull air from a 4" hole at one end bottom with a marine blower to
vent fumes outdoors. Works well.
Shelf (grill) $10.00 at home warehouse.
Blower, accepts 4" clothes dryer hose on both ends, fit one in sheetrock
hole, other to hose, $15.00, Boater's World, explosion proof, 228 CFM,
draws 4A from a 12V battery charger, had one in my boat, lasted 12 years.
Hope this helps.
John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john(at)catlover.com, RV-6/6A 25088 empennage
top building, while waiting for
industry to move?
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Bob made a comment about us being smarter consumers. Products are existant,
>because of the rules of supply and demand. If we demand adequate protection,
>without the addition of a switch, you'd think some of these brilliant people
>could come up with such a solution.
>
>Regards
>
>Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CHRIS.BROWNE(at)bge.com |
| Subject: | Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
This is fairly long, but for those who are as interested as I, here
are the answers to the question I have received so far, along with
some personal observations:
The Franklin 6 cylinder (0-350) is a simple and clean motor, and I was
impressed by the fact that the crankshaft is completely forged and the
machining is very clean. Any installation of this engine would look
great. The motor is "universal", in that it can be mounted
horizontally or vertically, FP or CS prop (the governor mounting pad
is behind of and perpendicular to prop flange), and can use single
carb, double carbs, or fuel injection. One of the most impressive
aspects of the motor is it smoothness, evidenced by the fact that the
Sensenich propeller manual Pat showed me listed NO rpm limitations for
any of their propellers when installed on a Franklin O-350. The
intake manifold is a curved pipe which runs along the bottom of the
each cylinder bank and joins in "Y" at the very bottom aft point on
the engine. The exhaust ports point straight down from each cylinder.
The 205+ hp rating of the motor is the European metric rating, which
is apparently more conservative and restrictive than the US SAE
rating. Consequently, the motor is rated at 220HP under the SAE
system, which explains the common 220HP rating seen for this motor.
Atlas Motors is run by Pat Goodman. Pat is very knowledgeable about
engines and knows quite a bit about fuel systems, as well. I believe
he said that he holds a dozen or so fuel system patents. Also, he has
attended the Lycoming factory engine school. There have been only a
few problems with the Franklins since they were reintroduced to the
market, and they were caused by poor installations. According to Pat,
there are no ADs against the Franklin engine.
Now, what about this motor for an RV? Naturally, there are two
challenges. The cowling and the engine mount. The engine mount is
discussed below, but I do not know what will have to be done with the
cowl. Vans cowl may fit for the RV-8, but I doubt the stock -6 cowl
will. This is because the motor is wider than an O-360, but narrower
than an IO-360, I dunno, maybe Barnards -6 cowl for the IO-360 will?
Any one who already has a -6 cowl might be in a better position to
answer this. One thing is for certain. THE FRANKLIN INSTALLATION
WILL COST ABOUT THE SAME AS A NEW O-360 FROM VAN. This is because the
complete motor is $16,000 and the cowl, engine mounts and incidentals
could easily add $3000-$4000 for the first brave sole to take this
installation on. You will end up, however, with 40HP more and
smoother operation when you compare apples to apples.
Now, here are the answers to the specific questions I received:
1. Are parts interchangeable between the US built Franklins and the
PZL Franklins?
For the 220HP model, yes. There is only ONE version of this motor
currently available and the PZL Franklin is identical to the US made
engines. PZL simply purchased the design and manufacturing rights.
(BTW - they used to offer a low compression, 160 HP version of the
same motor, but there was no weight savings and higher exhaust gas
temps. The 220 HP version runs on 100LL).
2. ... [H]ow many places can I get parts from? How extensive an
inventory do they hold? Does Atlas distribute the Franklin?
Yes, Pat is the sole importer of the engine so Atlas is the only
source of new parts. Pat has a large shop with new engines in stock
and he does have the commonly used parts such as pistons, rings, seals
and gaskets. The piston walls are very hard, so they do not require
boring for a TOH, just honing. New cylinders are $1000 a piece.
Also, come TBO, the total cost of the replacement parts exceeds the
price of a new engine, so you simply buy a new engine minus the
accessories. (Personal note - if your cylinders and pistons have life
left, you might be able to sell them).
3. How does the installed weight compare to an IO-360 (including and
allowance for a longer cowling if required)? Please ask for the
complete wet weight of the engine.
The wet weight with all accessories is 353 pounds for the
carburetor version. I have the factory drawings with all the
dimensions of the single carb engine. The max overall length from the
prop flange to the back of the starter is 960.3mm (37.81"). The max
width from valve cover to valve cover is 792.2mm (31.19"). The
drawings do not give the maximum height of the engine, but it is on
the order of 647mm (~25.5") based upon my CRUDE measurements of the
drawing. I do not know the dimensions of the Lycs, but according to
Pat the motor is slightly wider than an O-360, but narrower that an
IO-360. I have no idea what the Lycs weigh. If I can bitmap the
drawings I have, I will post them if anyone is interested.
4. What CS prop choices do I have? Are the governors still available?
Any CS prop which will fit a continental engine such as the O-470
will work. The governor mounting pad is universal and the prop flange
is called an SAE 2 "Special". Pat says the 182 uses this flange.
5. Is an inverted oil system available?
Yes, Atlas can make one for you. They have several installations
working on aerobatic planes.
6. What fuel injection systems are known to work well? If the
cylinder heads are drilled or have a machined area in the head that
can be drilled for fuel injection nozzles and availability of parts.
The intake manifolds are tapped for injectors, but fuel injection
is not recommended because of the added cost and lack of benefit in
power output. If you are looking to do inverted flight, Atlas
recommends an Allison throttle body carb which can operate inverted.
7. Does Atlas have an engine mount available for the RV-6?
No, and Pat and I spent a great deal of time talking about this
issue. He showed me "generic" engine mounts used on the Cosy, and
they are very simple affairs. The Franklin uses a horizontal
rectangular frame mount with four vertical mounting bolts. The engine
simply sits on the frame and bolts to it. The engine mount uses four
angled braces to support the frame on the firewall. The mount is much
less complicated than the Lyc mounts I have seen. Pat has a test
stand which he uses to test the mount to whatever G-loads and torque
you desire. He normally tests to the FAA standard, and although he
told me what that was, I forgot to write it down. The bottom line is
that a mount will likely have to be fabricated, and the next step is
to send Pat the firewall dimensions or a plywood mockup. He estimated
the cost for a custom mount would be ~$1500, but I have no idea what
they cost out there. Once someone does a mount for an RV, I'm sure
the cost would come down. The front gear mount for the 6A and the
main gear mounts for the -6 would also have to be accommodated, and my
gut feeling is that Van's mount could be modified. Ed Anderson, a
fellow on the RV list with a Mazda -6A, did this with little trouble
and the Madza mount is more involved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <r.acker(at)thegrid.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivoprop VP Magnum prop (was Ivoprop cheap shot) |
> Please remember that this discussion is supposed to be about the IVOPROP
> VP MAGNUM prop...the Ivoprop ULTRALIGHT prop
> (and its history) should be of no interest to this list.
> JIm Ayers
A good reminder Jim. I trust this means a corresponding decline in your
own
postings about non-Magnum models.
Regards,
Rob (RV-6Q, no longer a prospective Ivoprop customer based upon pre-sales
experience).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants plate rubs brake disc?? |
I found that a very small difference in the length of the spacers (less
than a thin washer's worth) can make all the difference. And the
bolts/spacers are so close to each other that if one spacer is just a
smidge longer than another then it will rub but if you swap them it will
not. Make sure the spacers are EXACTLY the same length so you don't
have to worry about which one goes where, and maybe make them a bit
long.
I also found the pressure of the slightly narrow wheel pant fairing
pushed the plate in and made it rub on the disk. So I made bends in the
plate outside of the radius of the disk until it fit. I imagine heating
up the pant and spreading it out a bit would also work.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
----------
> From: William G. Knight <msn.com!airshows1(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject:
> Date: Sunday, November 02, 1997 6:17 AM
>
>
> who
me
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newt comment--- |
ALL RIGHT ! Enough is enough ! Let's not get political on the RV-List !
After all, we have a new NON-Pilot head of the FAA who, as I understand it,
is pro Commercial Aviation. Possibly PRO USER FEES etc...etc... and she was
put there by Newt Gingrich ! Huh??? it wasn't Newt........ It was who
???
Bill Clinton and Al Gore............uh.......uh.......never mind......Al
(leaning way way right)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Double Flaring Tool |
This isn't meant as a flame, but what are you smoking? Use the right tool
for the right job. There are many critical flared joints in an RV. Loose
brakes and you loose steering, 100LL is quite volatile, etc.
Just my $.02
Scott Gesele N506RV -Flying (when the weather permits)
Get too loose with the spelling, and the reader starts to lose the meaning. ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: What ... Real IFR Today In My RV6A |
Dan said:
>Having never really used even a wing leveler, I don't know what I'd do with
one.
I have more scud running experience than IFR in real IMC but I *DO* know what
to do with a wing leveler.
There is an old Century simpleton autopilot in my Beech Debonair (same as an
F33) which is a responsive aircraft. Coming back from OSH this year I got into
the kind of turbulence that makes pilots say they fear turbulence. I always
thought turbulence wasn't so bad but that is because I didn't know what they
were talking about. I probably should have turned back but ATC says no echos
and I was not anxious to roll into any bank! The Deb wanted to go up and down
a thousand feet each way and I let it. I figure other traffic was less a
threat than pulling wings off fighting it. And I told ATC who basically said,
"ho, hum, okay". The wing leveler is a real boon under these conditions as it
allows you to concentrate on altitude - gently - and to write clearances, set
frequencies etc. These little tasks get to be really big and it becomes easy
to lose control.
So, I made myself a promise - no wing leveler, no IMC. Even for popping up to
VFR on top as that can be very different from expectations.
Aren't there FAA regs about what is in the aircraft for IFR that are not
obviated by being experimental?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- WANTED TO BUY - a used Chevy V-6 setup.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
| From: | bob.char.reeves(at)juno.com (Robert L Reeves) |
Sure sounds like vapor lock to me. Mine does the same thing under those
circumstances, long wait on the ground when the oil temp gets over 200
degrees. Especially when using auto gas, not a problem for me when using
100LL. I tried all the fixed I heard of, fire sleeves, blast tube on the
engine mounted fuel pump, return line from the carb back toward the tank,
and they all seemed to help, but didn't completely cure the problem. In
the summer I keep 100LL in one tank for takeoffs and landings, and auto
gas in the other for cruise. I have a boost pump and a fuel pressure
gauge which will show when its starting to vapor lock. Also, remember,
if it ever does quit on take off, pumping the throttle may save your
butt. The carb still has fuel in it which you can use by the throttle
pump, at least on some carbs.
Just my $ .02 worth, good luck,
Bob Reeves
Building Bearhawk, Flying RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Fuel tank fitting gaskets |
> I am about to seal the tank closed with the rear tank baffle.
> The outlets
> for the fuel vent and fuel pickup, appears to me it would require some
> sort of gasket seal between the washers and the tank bulkhead (rib).
Proseal.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: I guess I will be an RV 8 builder now............... |
> NOW I'm worried - *especially* after the post that a Van's person told a
> 6' pilot to downsize to the -4 because he "wouldn't fit".
>
> I'm 5' 7" and had decided on (read: fallen in love with) the -8. Am I
> going to have a problem? Or just need really thick cushions?
No. You will need the optional "tongue-in-cheek detector" however :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
Gary,
Sitting on the ground for that period of time in that temp will heat up
everything under the cowl no matter what you do. I doubt youll gain much by
changing your oil cooler set up, because we just dont move enough air at
idle. I think it was James Cone who came up with a way to circulate fuel
around between the selector valve and mechanical fuel pump eliminating his
vapor locking problem. How's about another description of your cure Jim?
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivoprop cheap shot (was Constant Speed) |
JR,
Do you see any irony in the fact that you state the prop was installed by a
"certified Rotax mechanic" ? As I recall, when Rotax arrived on the aviation
scene there were numerous reliability problems, failures, and some deaths as
a result of these failures. Fortunately Rotax engines are much better now
than they were then, and they now have wide market acceptance. Remember that
at the time Rotax was already a huge established manufacturer of engines for
motorcycles, snowmobiles, etc... They had huge resources for internal
testing before their aircraft engines went to market and in spite of that
had failures.
While I cant condone a manufacturer using his customers as test pilots, it
is understandable to me that a small company trying to enter a new market,
does as much testing as resources permit, goes into production, and then
finds that his initial customers have some problems with the design.
It appears that Ivo has learned something from early designs and that the
current props are better than his earlier versions. I have talked to several
Ivo Magnum users who give glowing reports on the props. I have also spoken
to some who tried unsuccessfully to use the earlier ground adjustable Magnum
and swore they would never use one again.
I would be interested in hearing from Jim, or Ivo himself, the numbers of
Ivo Magnums of any type/design/era that were shipped to customers; the
number of props that failed or were returned to the manufacturer for any
reason; the number of those returned that are of the current design.
As Rob Acker said, I would like to see these questions answered so we can
put this thread to rest. I hate to say it but I think part of the problem
here is that some of the postings on this have been somewhat cryptic and/or
misleading. Jim, can you get answers to these questions direct from Ivo and
post to the list? If not, I will try to get these questions answered myself.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>The propeller was installed by a Certified Rotax Mechanic and was checked and
>retorqued . Sorry Jim Ayers. May I remind you guys that there have been
>fatalities with IVOS and that info came from EAA. My IVO nearly came apart on
>my Kfox at 25 hrs.(Sp. 1996 and was not a Mag.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HinkleyC(at)fca.gov |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank fitting gaskets |
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent
the policy or position * * * *
* * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * *
Randall,
Take a look at Phil Arter's tank pictures,
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/rv8.html
You will see that those fittings are prosealed on both sides.
Curtis Hinkley
RV-8 N815RV reserved
CHink11769 @ aol.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
<< f you've never found water in your gascolator, it may mean that your wing
sumping techniques are adequate for the flying you do. However, the
gascolator
was put on most airplanes, to give somewhat less than responsible
individuals
an indication that their wing tank sumping techniques may not be measuring
up.
I haven't seen this word on the RV List, very often, but safety is the prime
concern.
I'll use a gascolator on the "Junkyard Dog," simply because I, Like every
other human animal I know, am not perfect.
>>
I have to side with Wendell here. Something else I havent seen anyone else
mention is that the gascolator has a very fine screen in it. It is fine
enough that it will catch anything but water or very fine dust particles. It
is easier to maintain durring annual or anytime. One might be more inclined
to clean the filter more often due to ease of access. Filters require pulling
up the floors for maintenance and changing them can be messy. If the wrong
type filters are installed and not changed when they should be their is
always a chance they could be completely clogged by water they have collected
over a period of time. I believe most vapor locking problems are ascosiated
with the engine driven fuel pump, so I personally dont consider this a reason
for not installing one. I have pulled my cowl many times after a hard run and
felt the gascolator bowl and found it to be cool. The effort to figure out a
way to install a gascolator is no more difficult then figuring out how or
where to install filters. The way I see it, its six of one and half a dozen
of the other. Either way works but I prefer the gascolator.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: acronyms ??? |
> > IIRC - If I Recall Correctly.
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff J. Dingbaum" <dingbaum(at)hep.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank fitting gaskets |
On Mon, 3 Nov 1997 fca.gov!HinkleyC(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Take a look at Phil Arter's tank pictures,
> http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/rv8.html
>
That URL should read:
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
RV in CAPS.
Jeff Dingbaum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Fuel system questions???? |
Hi all,
Looking at the fuel system for my RV6A, I can't help but think about crash
worthiness.
In a crash where I might survive, I suppose I would get to shut off the main
valve. So now all I have to worry about are the lines from tank to valve ...
and the vent lines! If I land among rocks and trees and the fuel tank gets
crushed, might not fuel be rammed into all the lines from pressure? I can
imagine the vent lines being torn and lots of fuel squirting into the cockpit.
Has anyone done anything to reduce the hazards in this area?
Do any RVs have fuel return lines? If so, how do they work? To which tank
etc.?
How do people who go for filters instead of 1950 farm tractor fuel bowls mount
the filters?
Does anyone have a fuel injected Chevy installation?
Doesn't anyone have a Chevy installation they have pulled out and replaced with
a Lycoming?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- WANTED TO BUY - a used Chevy V-6 setup.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switches |
Say, how about instead of an Avionics Master Switch, we instead considered
Avionics Bus power conditioning?
A design that would keep noise and spikes out of the avionics, that would not
cut off power to the bus if it failed, and gave some indication whether or not
it was functioning. How would you design such a critter?
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Antennae for RV6A???? |
Hi all,
I have some questions about antennas.
Will a setup like this work ok? Do some interfere with others?
COM one bent whip underneath - under the elevator bellcrank.
OR inside canopy? OR both
NAV archer type in right wingtip VOR, ILS, GS
GPS Garmin 195 on top of panel
TXPDR in left wingtip
MBR in right wingtip
ELT in canopy
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- WANTED TO BUY - a used Chevy V-6 setup.
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
<< Hopefully
the lower oil temperate will relieve what I believe to be vapor lock
from occurring on the ground.
BTW, 150 Kt cruise speeds yields 85 - 88 C (185 - 190 F) oil
temperatures. CHT has never been above 200 C (392 F). This is a little
warmer than what the guys who have the oil cooler mounted on the baffle.
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
FAA A & P
EAA Tech Counselor
>>
Gary:
I doubt if an oil cooler mod will reduce your chances of vapor lock. Your
engine puts out X amount of heat at idle, and your fuel system is absorbing a
percentage of that. The amount of fuel flowing thru the fuel system at idle
is very small- 1.8-2.4 GPH on my 540, and I'd hope yours is less. This amount
of fuel won't take much heat before it boils. You might have hot air blowing
on or around your gascolator? Fuel lines or gascolator too close to/not
sheilded from the exhaust system? Idle speed set to spec? Prop low pitch
stops set to spec (check your MP at idle)? A recommended fix (last resort?)
for a vapor lock problem is to put in a small vapor return line from the fuel
line where it attaches to the carb with a 030 orfice in the "T". Make sure
the vapor outlet of the "T" is pointing up, as vapor rises. Route this small
vapor line back to the selector valve, or better yet, to the tank vent line
where it attaches to the tank. Check the 27 yrs of the R-Vator for a diagram,
as it's probably listed in there (written by Don Childs). I happen to have an
original copy in the "reading room" if you can't find one.
Disregard above if your bird is injected.
As for the missing engine, I'll bet it's on the front of your airplane, where
you left it. Sorry, couldn't resist.;-)
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator balance |
I may be getting way ahead of myself but I am slightly concerned about th=
e
balance of my elevators. After fitting the tips I decided to put the
elevators back on the stabilizer to check fit and clearance of the tips. =
With the counterweights and the electric trim servo in place and the tips=
in place but not riveted the left elevator is neutrally balanced. The
right, without the weight of the servo and trim structure seems to have
plenty of weight.
Now, I don't know that this is the proper way to balance the controls (it=
will be a couple of years before I get that far in construction) but it
seems logical and after painting I will need more counter weight on the
left. I am also assuming that the elevators should be balanced separetly=
as opposed to as a single unit when they are tied together.
I am thinking of putting a small amout of lead in the fibreglass tip. If =
I
fiberglass it to the end plug an once or two should be suffient given the=
long arm. I can't imagine this small amount would be a problem
structually. Any thoughts on this? Or am I WAY ahead of myself and othe=
r
factors I don't know about will aleviate this problem down the road?
TIA
Scott A. Jordan
-8 #331
N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Nuckolls <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switches |
>Say, how about instead of an Avionics Master Switch, we instead considered
>Avionics Bus power conditioning?
>
There is a genre of pre-assembled, breakers, switches and bus bars
product that purports to filter power to the avionics bus structure
in their product. The name of the company escapes me at the moment
but ACS carries it in their catalog and I saw the product at OSH
several years running. The question to ask here is, "what type of
conditioning is necessary?"
For my builders wanting to plug portable CD players and other non-aviation
product into a power source on the panel, I do provide a schematic for
rudimentary ripple filtering and crowbar ov protection. It uses parts
available from Radio Shack and costs about $5.
>A design that would keep noise and spikes out of the avionics, that would
not
>cut off power to the bus if it failed, and gave some indication whether or
not
>it was functioning. How would you design such a critter?
Don't know how you would design it to be failure proof . . . it's no
different
than the avonics master switch was in this regard. It's easiest to provide
alternate, independent second pathway for power. As to the filtering
aspects, if the product is offered for use in aircraft, it should require
no further concessions other than to do what good airplane designers do.
Pay attention to wire routing, reduce or eliminate possibilities for
ground loops, provide over voltage protection for runaway alternators,
select a battery that's got very low internal impedance and gets replaced
when it's capacity drops to 50%, etc. etc. This kind of system doesn't
have problems that anyone's airplane radio needs to be afraid of.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)GEON.com> |
| Subject: | Kellog-American Compressors |
Cliff,
No one really makes it big in life without taking some risks!
You can minimize your risks by checking a few things on the compressor
such as the tank relief valve and the regulator/switch. If you really
want to be thorough, hydrostatically pressure test the reservior. A
good test pressure would be 1.5 times max operating pressure. Good
luck.
Bryan Jones
JONESB(at)GEON.COM
RV-8 fuselage due this week
Pearland, Texas
> Greetings -
> I suppose more newbie comments on air compressors will have some
> listers
> screaming, but yesterday I saw something a bit different. It is a 2hp
> compressor, belt driven, "two stage" the seller says, oiled, on top of
> a 60
> gallon tank. Nice and quiet, if big. Looks decades old, but if it
> works,
> and for 1/3 the price of a new one, I may go for it - if I can figure
> how
> to get it out of the back of a pickup. Anyone run across one of these
> before?
>
> Cliff Dominey
> RV-8A empennage in garage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)GEON.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel system questions???? |
Hal,
It's great that you are thinking about modes of failure and potential
bad problems, but I don't believe the fuel squirting into the cockpit
will be near as big a concern as the 2 or 3 dozen gallons spilled just
outside the canopy! The tanks (guessing) are probably only good for 5
or 10-psi. The tubing is probably good up to 500-psi, at least.
I would think a foam-filled or similar type safety tank (to prevent
gross spillage upon rupture) would be a good idea to pursue. Has anyone
investigated this idea?
Bryan Jones
JONESB(at)GEON.COM
RV-8 fuselage due to arrive this week
Pearland, Texas
> Hi all,
>
> Looking at the fuel system for my RV6A, I can't help but think about
> crash
> worthiness.
>
> In a crash where I might survive, I suppose I would get to shut off
> the main
> valve. So now all I have to worry about are the lines from tank to
> valve ...
> and the vent lines! If I land among rocks and trees and the fuel tank
> gets
> crushed, might not fuel be rammed into all the lines from pressure? I
> can
> imagine the vent lines being torn and lots of fuel squirting into the
> cockpit.
>
> Has anyone done anything to reduce the hazards in this area?
>
> Do any RVs have fuel return lines? If so, how do they work? To which
> tank
> etc.?
>
> How do people who go for filters instead of 1950 farm tractor fuel
> bowls mount
> the filters?
>
> Does anyone have a fuel injected Chevy installation?
>
> Doesn't anyone have a Chevy installation they have pulled out and
> replaced with
> a Lycoming?
>
>
> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- WANTED TO BUY - a used Chevy V-6 setup.
> halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau +1 +1 732 957 6611) |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switch |
>
> I'm going to have to agree with Bob on this one.
>
> If the avionics gear is so fragile as to succumb to spikes from starting a
> small 4 cylinder engine, even with a low battery, my question would be---WHY?
>
> With the advancements in technology today, it should be possible for the
> manufacturers of such equipment to provide adequate protection to their many
> marvels, without us having to install an antiquated device such as a
> rudimentary "switch" with which to perform this function.
>
> Bob made a comment about us being smarter consumers. Products are existant,
> because of the rules of supply and demand. If we demand adequate protection,
> without the addition of a switch, you'd think some of these brilliant people
> could come up with such a solution.
>
> Regards
>
> Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
>
> PS. Bob, I know you really get no challenge from someone who agrees with you,
> but in this case, I simply could not help myself. The American consumer gets
> what he gets, simply because he is willing to put up with the B.S. that the
> American Manufacturer wants to sell him.
Wendell,
You hit the proverbial nail on the head when you asked why the gadgets in
our cockpits don't protect against spikes, etc.
The answer I believe is development $$, testing $$ and implementation $$.
What would be the additional cost to us (the installers of such equipment)
and how about the timetable for incorporation of this "technology" into
their products?? Would we the consumers want to
1) spring for the extra $$ to have this be available on each and every
piece of electrical equipment we put into our cockpits, and when
would it be available??
2) or is it just easier, these days, to use a relatively inexpensive
switch to accomplish the same end results??
I too believe we have gotten what we asked for from the manufacturers, lower
priced radios.......with better functionality, more frequencies, "better"
dependability, more ease of use, etc.
We just didn't ask for radios with internal spike protection. Aircraft
manufacturers just spoke for all of aviation and walked around the problem
by providing a solution that was "cost effective", e.g. installing an
avionics master, and voila the radio manufacturers didn't have to lift a
finger (spend $$ on design and implementation) because the problem was
handled by the avionics master.
Paul Bilodeau
MT 4G-225
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
732-957-6611
Ready to Prime H.S. (if it ever stops raining on the weekends)...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
| From: | jepilot(at)juno.com (J E REHLER) |
Gary - I bet your problem is vapor lock and just reducing your oil temp
may not be enough to solve the problem. I have experienced the same
characteristics and finally wrapped all fuel lines with a high temp foil
covered, reflecting tape which appears to have solved the problem. My
gas lines were also sleeved but apparently the sleeving simply heat soaks
and holds the high temp in the fuel line. I also had cooling blast tubes
to the fuel pump and gascolator when I first experienced the problem.
Apparently the engine and everything under the cowling becomes heat
soaked which vaporizes the fuel and only time and reduced temps will cure
the problem once it occurs. The reflective wrapping was obtained from
an auto speed shop and is used on the fuel lines of racing cars. Cost
about $1 per foot and a ten foot roll was adequate. I also found some
insulated, reflector tape at Builders Square which is used for AC lines.
It is a little thicker and doesn't wrap as easily but is very
inexpensive. Finally if I know I'm going to start up again and leave
within 30minutes of landing, I open the oil door on the cowling after
landing to allow the captured heat to escape more easily. Good luck. J.
E. Rehler RV6A Corpus Christi, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switches |
>
> For my builders wanting to plug portable CD players and other
> non-aviation
> product into a power source on the panel, I do provide a schematic for
> rudimentary ripple filtering and crowbar ov protection. It uses parts
> available from Radio Shack and costs about $5.
I'm wodering whether I should be interested in this or not... I have a
Sony Discman which will eventually be used in my plane. Similarly, a
Magellan GPS3000 handheld GPS. I've been pre-flight testing them in my
car :-)
Sony doesn't say anything about it needing to be unplugged whilst
starting. Nor Magellan. In fact, I've just been leaving them plugged in
all the time -- after loss of power, both need to be switched, which I
normally do after starting the car. Should I be treating them
differently? How does the cigarette lighter adapter in my car differ
from that in a plane?
Or are these modern products that incorporate self-protection? In which
case, would I need your filter?
It's not like they're a safety-critical item. Nor as expensive as
avionics.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Securing brake lines |
I am currently working on the gear leg fairings, wheel pants, and
intersection fairings on my RV-6. I fabricated the wood stiffeners and
attached them to the backs of the legs using fiberglass wrap. I have
not routed my brake lines yet, and now I discover I don't know how I am
going to support the brake lines along the leg. I don't see how I can
put any sort of adel clamp or hose clamp or combination around the leg
without creating a high spot where the aluminum gear leg fairing will
rub. It seems like I should support the thing in 2 or 3 places. I
suppose I could have glassed them in but I'd rather not do that in case
I ever need to replace it. What have others done?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
Gary, I do not have a CS engine, only a 150 HP 0-320 with a wood
Sensenich prop, but I ran 80 octane auto gas all summer and did not have
one problem. In addition to the items others have mentioned, I made
curved 0.032 aluminum shields about 3 inches wide attached to hose
clamps and attached to the two inner exhaust pipes about 1 inch from the
pipes and placed to prevent radiant energy from being transmitted to the
fuel lines, gasculator, and fuel pump. We waited in line for 58 minutes
at Oshkosh to leave and never had a vapor lock problem and the oil
temperature never got over 160 degrees. I use an oil cooler in the
front cowl opening baffle and it is an Earls Speed shop cooler about 4 x
5 inches. I have never been able to get my oil temperature over 190
degrees.
John Kitz RV-4 Ohio
N721JK
178 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: I guess I will be an RV 8 builder now........... |
....
>
> > NOW I'm worried - *especially* after the post that a Van's person
told a
> > 6' pilot to downsize to the -4 because he "wouldn't fit".
> >
> > I'm 5' 7" and had decided on (read: fallen in love with) the -8. Am
I
> > going to have a problem? Or just need really thick cushions?
>
> No. You will need the optional "tongue-in-cheek detector" however :-)
Do you have a reference for that? I looked in both the yellow pages AND
Vans catalog... where does it fit? What drawing is it on? What size
drill should I use for fitting it? Do I need a shim for it? I've looked
at the plans and.... and...
...hey, wait a minute!
Chris (feeling rather sheepish....baaa!) Hinch
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
Gary, although I have not taken off with 100 degree ambient temperatures
yet, I have noticed that anytime the temperature is over about 85 degrees,
that my oil temp is running high at 215-220 degrees (60 degrees ambient, it
runs about 180). My engine does not miss and I don't have anything special
except the gas lines are firesleeved. I have a brand new lycoming 0-360
with only 70 hours on it, and my oil cooler is mounted like yours with 3
inch diameter hosing. I would be very interested in knowing if going to 4
inch diameter helps you cool down, because I would do the same thing.
Interestingly enough, when it gets cold out ( below zero ), my oil gets to
cold ( about 120 F ). I plan to close off my oil cooler hole a little when
it starts getting cold again in Chicago.
Scott Johnson
rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Frank Justice's Instructions |
Recently there were problems with the Hovan Home page (it went away
althogether I think). The Frank Justice instructions were one valuable
resource that was on that page, and I suggested to Frank that we put
them on the Home Wing Home Page (this only makes sense, since Frank is a
member of our builder's group). He agreed and has started sending me
the latest and greatest .doc files and I have been converting them as I
get them and putting them on the page, at
http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice.html
It is not all there yet; so far there is just the Empenage and Fuselage.
I am waiting for the rest from Frank. I expect they will all be up
before much longer.
And just what are these instructions, you ask? They are supplemental,
step-by-step instructions written by a builder as he was building his
RV-6A. They contain a lot of the tips, tricks and gotchas and pitfalls
to avoid of the sort that are tossed about on this list. Worth getting
a copy of, even if you are building something other than a -6 or -6A.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
>
>
> I plan to use fuel filters before the selector valve as you suggested.
> My problem is deciding which type of filter to use. What are you?
FWIT, some guys in TX who aren't on the list are using Car Quest #86033 and have
had know problems that I'm aware of, sooooo I'm going to be using them also.
Warren Bishop RV-6 connecting CHT probes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ACCPILOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flames! RV6 vs Mustang II |
In a message dated 11/1/97 2:18:17 AM, you wrote:
<>
easy about the Thorp thing :) I think the T-18 is one of the sharper looking
airplanes out there as well as a great flying airplane!!
Tony Cochran
T-18 driver RV-6 want to be ( or maybe I will just fly the T-18 and keep
running over all those RV's :))
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I plan to use fuel filters before the selector valve as you suggested.
My problem is deciding which type of filter to use. What are you?
Frank Smidler
RV-6 with wings and landing gear on but still in the basement. >>
Wix 33033 or a substitute metal type w 3/8" inlet/outlet.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ivoprop VP Magnum prop (was Ivoprop cheap shot) |
<345D2CC3.8AF80C80(at)ix.netcom.com>
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (James E Ayers) |
writes:
(Snip)
>We should not have to worry so much about
>installing and putting tape on the hub to *see* if the blades are
>moving. As Bob Nucholls has pointed out so many times we should
>not accept a product from the manufacture that is not top notch
>right out of the box rather it be radios or props.
(Snip)
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro,
>OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
The tape is an exceptionally inexpensive fail-safe system that varifies
the intrigity of the assembly installation.
You don't need to turn your nose up at something just because it is a
simple solution.
After all, the matching surfaces of the blade elements are excellent for
installing flat metal plates. This makes a very nice set of three, or
four, capacitors. By picking off the capacitance for the rotating
capacitor, any unusual variation in capacitance could be monitored by the
on-board computer to notify the pilot of a developing problem.
If this solution is more to your liking, and you don't mind the cost of
the prop doubling, this could be done, also.
But it wouldn't work any better than the stainless steel tape.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ivoprop cheap shot (was Constant Speed) |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (James E Ayers) |
writes:
(Snip)
> As Rob Acker said, I would like to see these questions answered so we
can
>put this thread to rest. I hate to say it but I think part of the
problem
>here is that some of the postings on this have been somewhat cryptic
and/or
>misleading. Jim, can you get answers to these questions direct from Ivo
and
>post to the list? If not, I will try to get these questions answered
myself.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4(wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
I just talked with Ivo. The questions are being Faxed to his shop.
As soon as he gets me the answers, I'll put them on the RV-list.
I do want to mention that the questions about use of the props in
service are only going to be available to Ivo from the customers that
have contacted him and volunteered that information.
Kind of like asking Van how namy hours of aerobatics have been flown by
all of the RV's, and total hours flown by RV's.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (James E Ayers) |
Kempthorne) writes:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I have some questions about antennas.
>
>Will a setup like this work ok? Do some interfere with others?
>
>COM one bent whip underneath - under the elevator bellcrank.
>
> OR inside canopy? OR both
>
>NAV archer type in right wingtip VOR, ILS, GS
>
>GPS Garmin 195 on top of panel
>
>TXPDR in left wingtip
>
>MBR in right wingtip
>
>ELT in canopy
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- WANTED TO BUY - a used Chevy V-6 setup.
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
Archer's NAV and Marker Beacon will work together in one wingtip.
A COM antenna in the top of the Vertical Stab is better than the
locations mentioned. I made a "deluxe" whip antenna foe $3 for tha
location. (I used black shrink tubing to hide it. It cost a dollar
"extra".)
The transponder antenna is the one antenna that should be mounted on the
forward belly of the RV.
I believe Tracy Saylor has worked the GPS and ELT, but I don't remember
his solution.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This is fairly long, but for those who are as interested as I, here
> are the answers to the question I have received so far, along with
> some personal observations:
>
>
> 2. ... [H]ow many places can I get parts from? How extensive an
> inventory do they hold? Does Atlas distribute the Franklin?
>
> Yes, Pat is the sole importer of the engine so Atlas is the only
> source of new parts. Pat has a large shop with new engines in stock
> and he does have the commonly used parts such as pistons, rings, seals
> and gaskets. The piston walls are very hard, so they do not require
> boring for a TOH, just honing. New cylinders are $1000 a piece.
> Also, come TBO, the total cost of the replacement parts exceeds the
> price of a new engine, so you simply buy a new engine minus the
> accessories. (Personal note - if your cylinders and pistons have life
> left, you might be able to sell them).
>
Do I understand that when it comes time to do a major overhaul that it's
cheaper to buy a new engine?
The Franklin sounds good as far as performance and smoothness but it doesn't
sound any cheaper than the Lycontinental engine in the long run.
WHY are the replacement parts so expensive?
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
Seattle WA USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switches |
>I'm wodering whether I should be interested in this or not... I have a
>Sony Discman which will eventually be used in my plane. Similarly, a
>Magellan GPS3000 handheld GPS. I've been pre-flight testing them in my
>car :-)
>
>Sony doesn't say anything about it needing to be unplugged whilst
>starting. Nor Magellan. In fact, I've just been leaving them plugged in
>all the time -- after loss of power, both need to be switched, which I
>normally do after starting the car. Should I be treating them
>differently? How does the cigarette lighter adapter in my car differ
>from that in a plane?
>
>Or are these modern products that incorporate self-protection? In which
>case, would I need your filter?
>
>It's not like they're a safety-critical item. Nor as expensive as
>avionics.
>
>Frank.
>
The biggest feature of the power conditioning is audio
rate noise filtering . . . not particularly dangerous
to the hand-held product. Most of these devices are designed
first to run on dry cells . . . the world's cleanest and quietest
source of power.
If you can use it in your car with no interference from alternator
whine or ignition noise conducted in through the power lead, then
it will be okay in your airplane too.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
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| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
Hi,
A recent thread discussed using 5/8" O.D. 1/2" I.D. plastic tubing
through the wing as a conduit for wiring. I was wondering if this is a
large enough diameter to contain the wiring for the following:
nav lights
strobe lights
heated pitot
landing & taxi lights
tip mounted nav & com antennae
Or do I need to go to a larger size tubing?
Thanks
-Glenn Gordon
Hanging ailerons
--
MZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
If Jim Cone is on line, he could probably add a lot to your body of
knowledge. He had what sounds to me a very similar fuel vapor problem,
athough it was an Ellison I think. He used a method which sounds darn near
fool (fuel) proof, and parallels what has been written by some very
knowledgeable folks.
Your oil temps don't sound too far off to me from what I observe, and your
experience with vapor lock sounds like a lot I have heard. If you would
implement Jim's methods of cooling your fuel that might be a better way to go
to achieve the peace of mind you need. Personally I think the bigger oil
cooler duct is also a good idea too, but then you will wind up choking it
down in the winter!
I have experienced several vapor locks on the ground in hot conditions, but
with my 180 HP, the electric pump can shove enough fresh fuel through to
smooth it out rather quickly, when I advance the throttle.
D. Walsh New paint looks great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system questions???? |
Jones, Bryan D. (LPT) wrote:
snipped
> It's great that you are thinking about modes of failure and potential
> bad problems, but I don't believe the fuel squirting into the cockpit
> will be near as big a concern as the 2 or 3 dozen gallons spilled just
> outside the canopy!
> I would think a foam-filled or similar type safety tank (to prevent
> gross spillage upon rupture) would be a good idea to pursue. Has anyone
> investigated this idea?
Bryan,
This came up on the list some months ago. A company in Italy
manufactures a product called Explosafe. It is an aluminium honycomb
which is installed in the fuel tank at the time of construction. It acts
as a sponge to keep most if not all the fuel in the tanks in the event
of a rupture. They make a lightweight version for aircraft use.
I corresponded with the company via email for more info. I have it on
disk if anyone wants the info. It is a 161kb zip file for MS Word.
Anyone who would like this info, email me off list & I'll send it.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 etching, alodining & priming HS
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switch |
>
>I also agree in principle with Bob, but... Refusing to buy any piece of
>hardware on principle seems somewhat foolish to me. My project is taking
>long enough, without having to take a stand on principle.
> So Bob, if you are going to continue to champion this crusade to force
>manufacturers to build quality hardware that doesnt require the protection
>of an avionics master, put your money where your mouth is. Recommend
>specific manufacturers and hardware that already meets these requirements.
>If there are none, or if you are unwilling to name them, do you honestly
>expect the entire homebuilt community to stop building, while waiting for
>industry to move?
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4(wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Have you been following the thread long? The industry did move . . .
about 20 years ago. I learned how to make my designs survive
in mean ol' airplanes back in 1975 and I haven't (nor have my
customers) worried about it since. Do you have an installtion
manual that does more than "suggest" that an avionics master
switch "might" extend the life of your radios? That's the
strongest words anyone has shown me yet and those were in a
King manual circa 1992. I know that King Radio's people participated
on Special Committee 135 that crafted the specs on how to do it.
It's the same specs I was advised to use 20 years ago.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switch |
>>
>> PS. Bob, I know you really get no challenge from someone who agrees with
you,
>> but in this case, I simply could not help myself. The American consumer
gets
>> what he gets, simply because he is willing to put up with the B.S. that the
>> American Manufacturer wants to sell him.
>
>Wendell,
>
>You hit the proverbial nail on the head when you asked why the gadgets in
>our cockpits don't protect against spikes, etc.
>
>The answer I believe is development $$, testing $$ and implementation $$.
>What would be the additional cost to us (the installers of such equipment)
>and how about the timetable for incorporation of this "technology" into
>their products?? Would we the consumers want to
Paul, they've already done it. Any manufacturer worthy of the the
aviator's respect in products has signed up for the necessary testing
and the cost of parts is trivial compared to the rest of the gizmo's
internal goodies.
> 1) spring for the extra $$ to have this be available on each and every
> piece of electrical equipment we put into our cockpits, and when
> would it be available??
>
> 2) or is it just easier, these days, to use a relatively inexpensive
> switch to accomplish the same end results??
As long as the switch doesn't become the SOURCE of a problem (switch
broken and/or wire(s) unhooked, ALL radios dead.
>I too believe we have gotten what we asked for from the manufacturers, lower
>priced radios.......with better functionality, more frequencies, "better"
>dependability, more ease of use, etc.
>
>We just didn't ask for radios with internal spike protection. Aircraft
>manufacturers just spoke for all of aviation and walked around the problem
>by providing a solution that was "cost effective", e.g. installing an
>avionics master, and voila the radio manufacturers didn't have to lift a
>finger (spend $$ on design and implementation) because the problem was
>handled by the avionics master.
Maybe you know something I don't know. Can you show me installation
instructions from any avionics manufacturer that requires installation
of an avionics master switch?
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
I have a return line from the other side of the Ellison TB that I have on my
engine in place of a carb. I have the system plumbed so that I can pump all
of the hot fuel out of the engine compartment. The return line goes back to
the fuel selector so that It creates a run-around that cools the fuel. The
electric boost pump will circulate the fuel. This stops all of the vapor lock
problems that I had.
Jim Cone
RV-6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Young, Richard BGI SYD" <Richard.Young(at)bglobal.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for an RV |
Hello All,
I am a relatively new private pilot and was considering the purchase of
a Grumman AA1 (with the 150 STC), but somewhere along the line I have
changed my tune and think a RV-4 would be more my style. I am from the
US but living in Australia for two years so after purchase I would be
shipping the plane down to Sydney. I do not have the time to build,
can any or all of you please give me some advice on what to look for and
how I should go about my search? I will be in the US in December
(three weeks) and would look to purchase during that time period.
I see the planes advertised in Trade A Plane, and for the performance,
you cannot beat the price.
Thank you for your help,
Rick Young
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flames! RV6 vs Mustang II |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
Runningover all those RV's.....
On landing rollout you mean? After the RV landing in front of you stops
in 400 ft.? Just kidding!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rodwoodard(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flames! RV6 vs Mustang II |
>Tony Cochran
>T-18 driver RV-6 want to be ( or maybe I will just fly the T-18 and
>keep
>running over all those RV's :))
Are you still having problems taxiing that T-18, Tony? I've heard of
difficult ground handling characteristics before, but running over other
airplanes... ! I don't think I'd admit to it so openly if I were you!
See ya for lunch at GXY this Saturday... Maybe we'll get to see Walsh's
new paint job.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ivoprop VP Magnum prop (was Ivoprop cheap shot) |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (James E Ayers) |
writes:
(Snip)
> Is the Ivo prop you are running
>the original installation Jim? --just curious
(Snip)
JR.
The prop hub is the prototype hub I installed in Dec. 1995. In June,
1996, I received the first set of blades that didn't break the tape. I
flew with these blades to Oshkosh this year.
In Feb, or March 1997, I had the blades painted with a polyurethane paint
(A LA Corvette). Maroon front/ Black back. On the trip home from
Oshkosh I got into some rain. Without the stainless steel leading edge
tape normally used on the Ivoprop, my blade leading edges had the paint
removed along with a small amount of the gel coat. All repairable, and
all where the tape normally sets.
In Aug. 1997, I received a set of current manufacture High Pitch blades.
Additionally, the crush plates had the diamond pattern added, the
prototype electric motor was replaced with a current production motor,
and the gears were upgraded to the current production.
BTW, the gear redesign was in the materials used, not in the physical
design of the unit. I believe a sintered pinion gear was replaced by a
solid machined pinion gear.
I can not think of any reason that anyone else would have removed and
replaced the Ivoprop prop as much as I have. Because the hub tape was
still breaking from Dec. 1995 until June, 1996, Ivo suggested I remove
the blades and inspect them after every one hour of flight.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
FLYING LESSONS FROM THE GEESE
LESSON 1
As each bird flaps its wings, it creates an uplift for the bird
following.
By flying in a "V" formation, the whole flock adds 71% greater flying
range than if each bird flew alone.
LESSON: People who share a common direction and sense of community
can get where they are going quicker and easier because they are
traveling
on the thrust of one another.
LESSON 2
Whenever a goose falls out of formation, it suddenly feels the drag
and
resistance of flying alone, and quickly gets back into formation to
take
advantage of the lifting power of the bird immediately in front.
LESSON: If we have as much sense as a goose, we will stay in formation
with those who are headed where we want to go, and we'll be willing to
accept their help as well as give ours to the others.
LESSON 3
When the lead goose gets tired, it rotates back into formation and
another
goose flies at the point position.
LESSON: It pays to take turns doing the hard tasks and sharing
leadership.
With people, as with geese, we are inter-dependent on each other.
LESSON 4
The geese in formation honk from behind to encourage those up front to
keep up their speed.
LESSON: We need to make sure our honking from behind is encouraging.
LESSON 5
When a goose gets sick or wounded or is shot down, two geese drop out
of formation and follow it down to help protect it. They stay with it
until
it is able to fly again or dies. Then they launch out on their own
with
another formation or catch up with their flock.
LESSON: If we have as much sense as geese, we too will stand by each
other in difficult times, as well as when we are strong.
-- AUTHOR UNKNOWN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
Hal,
I have installed all of my antennas in the wing tips also, with the exception
of the transponder. Garmin 195 antenna is on top of glare shield inside. I
may be wrong, but I was told that the transponder coax should be no longer
than eight feet long. Therefore, I am now planning on installing it on the
belly of the plane. Maybe Bob Nuckols will step in and set this straight.
Regards,
Louis Smith
RV-8 N801RV reserved
waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivoprop VP Magnum prop (was Ivoprop cheap shot) |
<345D2CC3.8AF80C80(at)ix.netcom.com> <19971103.211439.7967.0.Less_Drag(at)juno.com>
James E Ayers wrote:
>
>
> writes:
> (Snip)
> >We should not have to worry so much about
> >installing and putting tape on the hub to *see* if the blades are
> >moving. As Bob Nucholls has pointed out so many times we should
> >not accept a product from the manufacture that is not top notch
> >right out of the box rather it be radios or props.
> (Snip)
> >Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro,
> >OR
> >jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
> The tape is an exceptionally inexpensive fail-safe system that varifies
> the intrigity of the assembly installation.
>
> You don't need to turn your nose up at something just because it is a
> simple solution.
>
> After all, the matching surfaces of the blade elements are excellent for
> installing flat metal plates. This makes a very nice set of three, or
> four, capacitors. By picking off the capacitance for the rotating
> capacitor, any unusual variation in capacitance could be monitored by the
> on-board computer to notify the pilot of a developing problem.
> If this solution is more to your liking, and you don't mind the cost of
> the prop doubling, this could be done, also.
>
> But it wouldn't work any better than the stainless steel tape.
>
> Jim Ayers
> Less_Drag(at)juno.com
>
Thats all fine Jim but is that he reason I don't see spinners on
Ivo props? I sure don't want to fly my RV with out a spinner.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Antennae for RV6A???? |
Have you thought about the Com/Nav antennas you can put in the wingtips?
Does anyone have experience with these?
-----Original Message-----
From: sybase.com!halk(at)matronics.com
[SMTP:sybase.com!halk(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 1997 5:52 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Antennae for RV6A????
Hi all,
I have some questions about antennas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
Mark said:
Check the 27 yrs of the R-Vator for a diagram,
as it's probably listed in there (written by Don Childs). I happen to have an
original copy in the "reading room" if you can't find one.
Disregard above if your bird is injected.
Mark, I'm interested to know the reason for your last statement.
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
Jime Cone wrote:
I have a return line from the other side of the Ellison TB that I have on my
engine in place of a carb. I have the system plumbed so that I can pump all
of the hot fuel out of the engine compartment. The return line goes back to
the fuel selector so that It creates a run-around that cools the fuel. The
electric boost pump will circulate the fuel. This stops all of the vapor lock
problems that I had.
Jim, is your "run-around" always in circuit or do you disable it in flight.
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HinkleyC(at)fca.gov |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent
the policy or position * * * *
* * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * *
Mark,
Would you explain why a vapor return line is not needed on an injected
setup.
Disregard above if your bird is injected.
Check six!
Mark
Curtis Hinkley
RV-8 N815RV reserved
CHink11769 @ aol.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduit |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> A recent thread discussed using 5/8" O.D. 1/2" I.D. plastic tubing
> through the wing as a conduit for wiring. I was wondering if this is a
> large enough diameter to contain the wiring for the following:
>
> nav lights
> strobe lights
> heated pitot
> landing & taxi lights
> tip mounted nav & com antennae
>
> Or do I need to go to a larger size tubing?
In the wing I just completed, I have wiring for nav lights, strobe cable
from power source, one landing/taxi light, and heated pitot wiring in a
3/8" bundle. I am not sure I would want to run antenna leads with the
strobe cable, but I am planning conventional antennas anyway. Maybe
someone else can comment.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greenrv(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank fitting gaskets |
I am at the same point - using justice manual as well as Van's manual and
Orndorf video. Use proseal per instructions. Orndorf video is
especially helpful at this point.
Lawrence Greeno,Rochester NY
greenrv(at)juno.com Working on 6A Tanks
>
>> I am about to seal the tank closed with the rear tank
>baffle.
>> The outlets
>> for the fuel vent and fuel pickup, appears to me it would require
>some
>> sort of gasket seal between the washers and the tank bulkhead (rib).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greenrv(at)juno.com |
Pat. In order to go for my RV6A project, I sold my Piper Colt - could
not do both. I have no regrets, and therefore I second the motion.
Lawrence Greeno, Rochester, NY
greenrv(at)juno.com
Working on tanks
You replied:
>Ever thought of selling the Chief, and using the proceeds to buy the 6
>kit??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | New NTSB recommendations |
charset="iso-8859-1"
The November edition of the AOPA "On Approach" states on page 15 that
the NTSB has recommended that the FAA revise registration procedures and
"strengthen training requirements for owners of experimental kit-built
aircraft:.
Does anyone know what this is all about?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bum flyer <Bumflyer(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flames! RV6 vs Mustang II |
In a message dated 11/3/97 23:42:35, you wrote:
><efficient, and I did see one do an aileron roll once.
>
>D Walsh>>
>
>easy about the Thorp thing :) I think the T-18 is one of the sharper looking
>airplanes out there as well as a great flying airplane!!
>Tony Cochran
>T-18 driver RV-6 want to be ( or maybe I will just fly the T-18 and keep
>running over all those RV's :))
Boy I am sorry I started this one!! Thanks for putting me in my place. Tony
is not kidding about running past the RV's and his T-18 is the best piece of
craftsmanship in this area. There is no bondo hiding smileys in it! Beauty
is in the ear of the beholder. Amen.
D Walsh, happy in my ugly green RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
I just wanted to throw in .02 on the Franklin "smoothness". I have only
flown/ridden in two
Stinson 108's with the 165hp Franklin. To call this engine "smooth"
borders on the ludicrous. It vibrates at a higher frequency than the
Lycoming. Therefore, there is more of a buzz than a rumble. But in no way
would I consider it "smooth".
I think a lot of people are getting misled by this. A Lexus is smooth. A
Franklin is not.
BTW, I like those airplanes and have no beef with the engine, other than
parts availability.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A rudder pedals |
charset="iso-8859-1"
The Justice construction notes advise positioning and drilling the
rudder blocks to the angles between the firewall and the F-604 before
moving on to the rest of the fuselage.
The problem I see is that until I sit in the airplane I do not know if
the 4 inch from the firewall location will work for me. I was thinking
of drilling three sets of holes so that later I can position the pedals
4", 5" and 6" from the firewall depending on how far away I want them
once the fuselage is upright.
Has anyone else done this? Any advise?
By the way, I searched the archives. My cup runeth over! There was too
much on pedals and rudders and not enough on adjusting the location of
the pedals or determining where to locate them. It might be there, but
I couldn't find it.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Slow going on the fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
The Franklin engine that I had on my Stinson did not have a pad for a
vaccum pump, So my vaccum instruments were venturi driven. Does the new
engine have provisions for a vaccum pump?
Ray and Nancy Murphy
murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us
North Bend, OR
RV6A empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVinfo <RVinfo(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Rubber |
<< Do most of you adhere the rubber sealing strip to the wing root fairing
sheet
metal using a contact adhesive or will it stay in place by just slipping it
on with no adhesive?
>>
Try glueing them on with some super glue. I use the "Hot Stuff" from the
model airplane store. Clean the mold release from the inside with some type
of solvent, place the strip in place on the aluminum and apply the glue. It
will wick itself in place. I found that this holds better that the
weatherstrip adhesive and is infinitly easier to apply.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carlos bellido c/o joseph Matza" <matzaj(at)gghlaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder pedals |
hi all
i'm looking to meet some builders from the long island, ny area i can
be reached either by e-mail or at 1-917-783-4053.
joe
8-epp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switch |
Hi Bob,
I guess I have once again "lost the bubble" on one of your threads. Let me
recap my understanding of what has passed here and you can tell me where I
reached the wrong conclusion.
1) There was a copy of a message to Avweb posted by someone with
acknowledged expertise advocating the use of an avionics master to protect
any/all installed avionics in an aircraft during engine start.
2) There was a reply from you stating that the avionics master is an
anachronism that has no place in a homebuilt using modern avionics and
electrical system layout/design techniques.
3) Flurry of responses from listers saying, "yeah but if the switch cost so
little and could potentially save me thousands of dollars in repairs on my
avionics, why not use it?"
4) Ongoing debate amongst you and various listers stating that manufacturers
should be forced by the laws of supply and demand economics to provide
avionics that are impervious to any power supply anomalies.
I guess its #4 above that prompted my post. I was under the impression from
your postings that there is still avionics gear on the market that is
subject to problems during engine start. Your response to my post implies
that this is not the case. If that is so, then how do you explain the Avweb
post that started this whole thing? Was that guy just plain wrong? And what
was the point of your repeated posts calling for change to be forced on
avionics manufacturers by the marketplace? I guess I am no less confused
about what you are trying to say than I have been all along.
Please understand that I dont intend this as any type of flame. I have no
knowledge of avionics whatsoever. The various standards that you have
referred to in this thread mean nothing to me. I, as do many other listers,
rely on the expertise of others such as yourself to attempt to make an
intelligent decision. When expert advice from 2 different sources conflicts,
what are we supposed to do? I'm simply trying to avoid making a very
expensive mistake.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
At 11:19 PM 11/3/97, you wrote:
> Have you been following the thread long? The industry did move . . .
> about 20 years ago.
>
> Bob . . .
> AeroElectric Connection
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
<< << The RVAtor has a picture of the Bill Davis RV4 with Turtledeck. I have
been
told the transition aft of the canopy is a problem, aerodynamically
speaking
and I also have noticed the Harmon Rockets have the Turtledeck.
If anyone has info on this modification as far as speed gains go, please
post
it to the list as I would like to do anything within reason to make my RV4
go
fast. >>
Read Kent Paser's, "Speed with Economy." He describes how to do this with a
Mustang II and documents the speed increases. Although he did it with a
different airplane, it is the same process for the same problem, and it is
well documented.
Check the classifieds in Sport Aviation for how to get the book.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduit |
| From: | m.talley(at)juno.com (Michael L Talley) |
Re: the discussion on getting wiring out into the wing. I used the
plastic tubing Van's sells and ran in through the lightening hole just
aft of the one that carries the aileron push rod. I fabricated .025
angles riveted to the ribs to allow a clamp for the conduit. I have the
wiring in the left wing for nav lights, strobe power and sync, landing
light and heated pitot/static. There is plenty of room for at least 2
RG-59 coaxes. Remember, don't fill a conduit more than about 75% full to
allow room to add more or rework later. From my years of wiring
installation designing at Boeing we also ran a pull cord through conduits
that was 2x the length of the conduit. Attach each end of the pull cord
at the ends of the conduit so it won't accidently disappear up the pipe.
If you don't get too rowdy pulling in extra wiring the flat, braided wire
lacing cord used to tie wire bundles is ok for the pull cord. I had to
have a break in the conduit at the pitot location to get that wire out
but that area can be reached through the aileron bell crank hole.
This brings up a question - I plan to use Whelen A490A power supplies in
each tip and need dimensional info to plan mounting. Does anyone have a
sketch or drawing of this part??
Mike Talley
RV-6 left wing almost ready to set aside
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
I've drilled and dimpled the F675 except for the line across the top of
the F607 bulkhead, per the manual. I'm toying with the idea of going
ahead and drilling that row, as well. That way, I can back drill through
the F674 when I put it on and will have a well defined line of holes to
back drill through. How about some of you out there? Did you do it
this way? For some reason, drilling through three layers without being
able to see what I'm doing on each hole gives me heartburn.
If you will, answer off line to keep down the traffic.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing brake lines |
>I am currently working on the gear leg fairings, wheel pants, and
>intersection fairings on my RV-6. I fabricated the wood stiffeners and
>attached them to the backs of the legs using fiberglass wrap. I have
>not routed my brake lines yet, and now I discover I don't know how I am
>going to support the brake lines along the leg. I don't see how I can
>put any sort of adel clamp or hose clamp or combination around the leg
>without creating a high spot where the aluminum gear leg fairing will
>rub. It seems like I should support the thing in 2 or 3 places. I
>suppose I could have glassed them in but I'd rather not do that in case
>I ever need to replace it. What have others done?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6
Randall,
I obtained good results by using short pieces of nylon tubing to prevent
chafing and cable ties.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduit |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> A recent thread discussed using 5/8" O.D. 1/2" I.D. plastic tubing
> through the wing as a conduit for wiring. I was wondering if this is
> a
> large enough diameter to contain the wiring for the following:
>
> nav lights
> strobe lights
> heated pitot
> landing & taxi lights
> tip mounted nav & com antennae
>
> Or do I need to go to a larger size tubing?
>
I would make up a sample wiring bundle, measure it and then select the
proper diameter conduit
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Colontonio <moejoe03(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder pedals |
Anyone know where I can get the Justice builders manual? I didn't see it in the
Avery Catalog.
Moe Colontonio
-8 Emp
Cherry Hill, NJ
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> The Justice construction notes advise positioning and drilling the
> rudder blocks to the angles between the firewall and the F-604 before
> moving on to the rest of the fuselage.
>
> The problem I see is that until I sit in the airplane I do not know if
> the 4 inch from the firewall location will work for me. I was thinking
> of drilling three sets of holes so that later I can position the pedals
> 4", 5" and 6" from the firewall depending on how far away I want them
> once the fuselage is upright.
>
> Has anyone else done this? Any advise?
>
> By the way, I searched the archives. My cup runeth over! There was too
> much on pedals and rudders and not enough on adjusting the location of
> the pedals or determining where to locate them. It might be there, but
> I couldn't find it.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> Slow going on the fuselage.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)meridium.com> |
I moved to a new house with a garage!!!
>Ever thought of selling the Chief, and using the proceeds to
buy the 6
>kit??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
(juno.com!less_drag(at)matronics.com)
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
> >COM one bent whip underneath - under the elevator bellcrank.
> >
> > OR inside canopy? OR both
> >
> >Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- WANTED TO BUY - a used Chevy V-6 setup.
>
> A COM antenna in the top of the Vertical Stab is better than the
> locations mentioned. I made a "deluxe" whip antenna foe $3 for tha
> location. (I used black shrink tubing to hide it. It cost a dollar
> "extra".)
>
> Jim Ayers
Jim, is your antenna really IN the stab? Have you done any reception
testing? I would expect an awful lot of attenuation, since it's
surrounded by metal.
The best placement would be with the antenna vertically oriented below
the ground plane. Hal's idea of putting it underneath the horizontal
stab doesn't sound too bad.
I've love to have it inside the wingtip, but that has two problems.
It's not vertically oriented, and it's adjacent to a lot of metal
(blocking signals from that side).
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lisa Cardwell <sales(at)modworks.com> |
| Subject: | Engines for sale |
We currently have two used aircraft engines for sale removed from a
Mooney M20J aircraft for upgrade. Lycoming model IO-360-A3B6D strong
running engines with low time. Call Lori Campbell at Mod Works for
additional information at (800) 231-0201 or e-mail at
sales(at)modworks.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lisa Cardwell <sales(at)modworks.com> |
| Subject: | Engines for sale |
We currently have two used aircraft engines for sale removed from Mooney
M20J aircraft for upgrade. Lycoming model IO-360-A3B6D strong runnign
engines with low time. Call Lori Campbell at MOd Works for additional
information at (800) 231-0201 or e-mail at sales(at)modworks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
<< Check the 27 yrs of the R-Vator for a diagram,
as it's probably listed in there (written by Don Childs). I happen to have
an
original copy in the "reading room" if you can't find one.
Disregard above if your bird is injected.
Mark, I'm interested to know the reason for your last statement.
Ken RV6A Flying
>>
That's what it says in the article! Actually, it says disregard if you have
injection, or gravity feed.I guess if I'm going to plagarize, I'd better do a
better job of it. Neither makes sense to me, but maybe a fluid systems
engineer on the list can explain it? I know that the Continental systems in
the Bonanzas use a return (to the left tank only). I can see that it would
mess up the fuel flow and totalizer readings. It could be that the higher
pressures associated with F.I. systems are responsible for less vapor
lock/more heat tolerance, so a return isn't often needed.
Airflow Performance does make a pilot-operated valve that is inserted in the
line just before the flow divider that bypasses the fuel back to the tank for
shut-down and pre-start vapor purging, but it's closed (no by-pass) during
normal operation.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
Well, a lot of people have been asking when I would get around to
another update of my web pages. For one reason or another, it has taken
a long time to get around to the next few chapters, though it has been
almost a year since I last updated. Well, I have good news and bad.
The good news is that I finally updated the site. You can follow the
link to http://ic.net/~patk/rv6a.htm to see the new chapters. You'll
also get my whine about why it took so long and what happened. Now, the
bad news is that there are no new photos. I took tons of photos.
However, due to focusing problems, most of them are useless. I will get
the good ones up there as soon as I get use of the scanner again. The
ones that didn't come out will be taken again as I do the other wing.
This time I will use a digital camera and review the shots before
proceeding. I am no photographer, so I don't dare risk bad results
again. Sorry to have kept the interested few waiting.
PatK - RV-6A - Building energy for the second wing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <AndersonE(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
Hi Curtis,
Thought I would take a shot at answering your question. Most Fuel
injection systems have a "high" pressure fuel pump which maintains fuel
pressure in the injector system on/near the engine in the 25-45PSI range.
This is in contrast to the 4-6psi for a pump driven carburetor system. This
higher pressure tends to keep "bubbles" from forming due to the heat - or at
least not nearly as easy as they form in a lower pressure fuel line. Also,
most fuel injected systems return "unused" ( and heated) fuel to the fuel
tank where it has a chance to cool off before being sucked back into the
intake line. Therefore, its is seldom (but, have heard of it happening)
that fuel injection systems have the problem with heat induced bubbles in
fuel lines that can plague carburetors systems.
I am using an EFI system that maintains 40psi fuel pressure and have had the
temp up near the redline (before I sorted out some cooling problems) and
never had a miss using auto fuel. Also, I believe (not certain) that main
reason you are advise not to return fuel to a fitting near selector valve (
in a fuel injected engine) is that by letting the fuel normally return to
the tank ( as it does in most fuel injection setups) it has the thermal
sink of all that fuel mass in the tank (with cool airflow over/under) to
dissapate the heat of the returned fuel rather than just that in the line
near where you would return the fuel, if you added the fitting near the
selector valve recommended for carburated engines. In otherwords, by
returning it to the fuel line thru the fitting rather than thru the tank you
are making the problem worst (for a fuel injection system) not better.
Peww!
Cheers
Ed
----------
From: fca.gov!HinkleyC
Subject: Re: RV-List: High Oil Temp and Engine missing.
Date: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 3:53PM
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent
the policy or position * * * *
* * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * *
Mark,
Would you explain why a vapor return line is not needed on an injected
setup.
Disregard above if your bird is injected.
Check six!
Mark
Curtis Hinkley
RV-8 N815RV reserved
CHink11769 @ aol.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Looking for an RV |
Hi Richard,
You might like to contact someone in the CAA (Australia's version of the
FAA) and have a talk about the rules and regs for the importation and
flying of US registered aircraft in Australia. At the moment Homebuilt
aircraft in Australia are certified and they will probally want to make
you jump through some pretty serious hoops if you want to fly here.
John Morrissey
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Young, Richard BGI SYD
> [SMTP:bglobal.com!Richard.Young(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 5:11 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: Looking for an RV
>
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> I am a relatively new private pilot and was considering the purchase
> of
> a Grumman AA1 (with the 150 STC), but somewhere along the line I have
> changed my tune and think a RV-4 would be more my style. I am from
> the
> US but living in Australia for two years so after purchase I would be
> shipping the plane down to Sydney. I do not have the time to build,
> can any or all of you please give me some advice on what to look for
> and
> how I should go about my search? I will be in the US in December
> (three weeks) and would look to purchase during that time period.
>
> I see the planes advertised in Trade A Plane, and for the performance,
> you cannot beat the price.
>
> Thank you for your help,
> Rick Young
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Here's one more thing I do but don't think about. I would think you
adjust elevator trim for indicated speeds?? If you install an aileron
trim tab and adjust it for say, 180 mph (indicated) at 2000 feet, when
you get up to 8000' and are only indicating about 150 will you need to
get out and re-adjust the trim tab? Electric aileron trim is sounding
pretty good. I only say this because when I was getting 140 out of my
plane, it flew hands off. Now that I'm getting 170 it has a heavy
wing. When I get my new prop and it does 300, I don't know what I'll
do. Put stronger springs on the manual trim lever, I guess.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder pedals |
----------
> From: Stephen J. Soule <pfclaw.com!SSoule(at)matronics.com>
> To: Rv-List (E-mail)
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6A rudder pedals
> Date: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 8:17 AM
>
>
> The Justice construction notes advise positioning and drilling the
> rudder blocks to the angles between the firewall and the F-604 before
> moving on to the rest of the fuselage.
>
>I was thinking of drilling three sets of holes so that later I can
position the pedals
> 4", 5" and 6" from the firewall depending on how far away I want them
> once the fuselage is upright.
>
> Has anyone else done this? Any advise?
>
Steve,
I drilled three sets of extra holes for the rudder pedals, in both
longerons and at the center gusset support. The most forward hole set was
limited by where I had cut off the center gusset to clear the firewall
recess. I am more interested in forward -mounted rudder pedals as I am
5'9" with a 30" inseam and fly my Skyhawk with the seat fully forward.
I was dissapointed that the right and left pedals hang at slightly
different angles, but sitting in a completed 6A with the same geometry
convinced me that it was not an issue.
Now that I have skinned the fuselage I am glad that I drilled the holes
earllier, but it would not be very much more difficult to do it now. I
have found several instances where Frank says "do it now or you'll be
sorry" and it didn't seem so bad to me:
1) Drilling seat belt brackets while fabricating F605 -- not a big deal to
do it later.
2) Mounting flap actuator bushings before skinning -- I think in fact it
was easier later, due to vsuallization of where floor goes and how many
layers there are at the center.
I do have a good angle drill and several 12 inch drills to aid the cause.
Dennis 6A working on cabin floors
Barrington, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)op.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Important List Information! |
>Listers!
>
>I will hopefully be upgrading the Matronics email system from the current
>UUCP connectivity to a new dedicated Internet connection this week. The
>order is in and I am expecting to get the go ahead for cutover tomorrow
>(Tuesday).
Today, we should all write Matt Dralle.....a check. You know..$$$$.
Its time again for those of us who can't wait to get home and boot up the
"list" to remember how hard Matt works for us. His time, energy, and money
serves us well. But there's no such thing as a free lunch.
Matt, if you are too timid to give us your address, I hope someone else will.
An avid lister.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JimNolan(at)mail.kconline.com |
Listeners,
I've been reading about high oil temps and vapor lock on the RV
List and would like to make a statement.
When my RV4 has been flown and then parked for a short period of
time I will get vapor lock. Doesn't matter if it's auto gas or 100LL.
All I have to do is turn on the electric fuel pump and the vapor lock
goes away. Every time. So now if I re-start after flying I
automatically turn on the boost pump and I never have a problem. My
gas line is firesleeved but the gascolator doesn't have air going to
it.
As for the oil temp problem. I've been in some of the longest
lines for takeoff, and some of the hottest days while flying and I've
never seen my oil temp past 200 degrees.
And while I'm here let me throw in my 2 cents on propellers.
There's a reason why Van only promotes certain products. Whether it
be props, engines, or accessories. He wants you to be able to turn
the key and go after you have labored long and hard to build it.
That's the part that I enjoy most. If I'd wanted to experiment with
unproven products, I wouldn't have done it with something as costly,
time consuming to produce and as quick to get you hurt with as an
airplane. I leave the experimenting to folks with more time, money
and the love of trial and error. I know that's a cop-out but I REALLY
enjoy knowing what I'm getting BEFORE I pay for it.
Thanks for your patience
Jim Nolan
Warsaw, In N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
There was a interesting article in Light Plane Maintenance, November
issue, on tiny bubbles in the fuel. It delt mostly with injected Lycs and
the Slingsby T3A, but address the RV-6 on a particular installation.
It was reported to LPM by the -6 owner "that the engine would lose
power just as if the fuel selector had been turned off, the problem would
occur without warning. The only constant was that, when it happened, the
throttle was retarded to a lower power setting or a idle settings - those
usually found on short final."
As I said the article was mostly dealing with injected engines,
however some of this applies to carburetor equiped engines. "The fuel is
being delivered to the engine driven pump at a constantly fluctuating
pressure and with a varing degree of aeration. Fuel lines are not full of
solid fuel because air is being pulled from the tank as well as fuel." Fuel
releases vapor and small bubbles that form within the lines, 90-degree
fittings, loops & etc. This can happen regardless of external temperatures,
the reason is found in the arbitary placement of fuel components. The air
accumulates at the high points in the system and when the pressure and/or
size of the air accumulation is greater than the fuel pressure the bubble
burps its way through the system and the engine hestitate or stalls.
For a positive cure the article suggests a header tank positioned
where there would be a gravity fed positive head pressure to the engine
pump. If the header tank is properly vented, it will help greatly to let
the air escape. Van's I understand, recommends placing the fuel boost pump
as low as possible in the belly. Finally, as most of us know, keeping as
few fuel components exposed to heat as possible and those that have to be
exposed, cooled in some manner, such as blast tubes and shields will help a
great deal.
There was a fellow who had installed a header tank between the top
of the firewall and the instrument sub-panel, I recall, pictured in the
Rvator. He might be on to something there. I don't recall if it was meant
to be a header tank or just a aux tank. I have been concerned about all
aircraft that engines quit with fuel in the tank. Maybe I just have built
up a sensitivity and am blowing it out of proportion. It does seem to me at
least that reading the safety bulletins each month there is a lot of
airplanes getting banged up because of fuel problems, both production and
experimental. It was suggested to me the otherday that the cure to that was
to quit reading those scary safety bulletins...;^)
I thought possibly this would be interesting to a few on the list.
Have a good one.
Denny RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system questions???? |
charset="iso-8859-1"
. A company in Italy
>manufactures a product called Explosafe. It is an aluminium honycomb
>which is installed in the fuel tank at the time of construction. It acts
>as a sponge to keep most if not all the fuel in the tanks in the event
>of a rupture.
Charlie and all
I was at a Transport Canada safety seminar this past weekend and one of the
homebuilt accidents they profiled was of a long ezy with explosafe in the
tanks. The fatal accident was caused by water getting to the engine that
had been held in suspention by the material in the tanks. The pilot had
been having rough running problems and even one complete stoppage of the
engine prior to the accident flight. He was finding water when he checked
the sumps prior to flight but drained until there was clear fuel. The
vibrations of flight caused water to precipitate out and reach the fuel pick
ups.
Transport Canada did tests of the material from the tanks and found that an
sample about 10 square inches held 6 oz of water before it dripped.
No info on how the water was getting in the tanks in the first place.
Something to think about if you are going to use this material.
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Securing brake lines |
Randall, seems like I remember that the manual once said to just use
electrical tape. I believe that's what I used on mine, but I didn't have
stiffeners on it. Think I will put them on this one though as I did get some
shimmy on fast taxi and sometimes on roll-out.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
I fabricated the wood stiffeners and
attached them to the backs of the legs using fiberglass wrap. I have
not routed my brake lines yet, and now I discover I don't know how I am
going to support the brake lines along the leg. I don't see how I can
put any sort of adel clamp or hose clamp or combination around the leg
without creating a high spot where the aluminum gear leg fairing will
rub. It seems like I should support the thing in 2 or 3 places. I
suppose I could have glassed them in but I'd rather not do that in case
I ever need to replace it. What have others done?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduit |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> A recent thread discussed using 5/8" O.D. 1/2" I.D. plastic tubing
> through the wing as a conduit for wiring. I was wondering if this is
> a
> large enough diameter to contain the wiring for the following:
>
> nav lights
> strobe lights
> heated pitot
> landing & taxi lights
> tip mounted nav & com antennae
>
> Or do I need to go to a larger size tubing?
>
> Thanks
> -Glenn Gordon
> Hanging ailerons
>
> --
> MZ
>
> +-
>
If you run the conduit to the wing tip how do you get the wiring back
to the landing lights mounted in the wing without running it outside of
the tubing.Maybe drill a hole in the tubing at that location?
Question for Lyc IO 180 owners....Any one know of an inexpensive fuel
boost pump other than the usual Dukes pump?
D.Reed .Wings RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Netathon moved up 3-4 Months |
>
>>Listers!
>>
>>I will hopefully be upgrading the Matronics email system from the current
>>UUCP connectivity to a new dedicated Internet connection this week. The
>>order is in and I am expecting to get the go ahead for cutover tomorrow
>>(Tuesday).
>
>
>Today, we should all write Matt Dralle.....a check. You know..$$$$.
>Its time again for those of us who can't wait to get home and boot up the
>"list" to remember how hard Matt works for us. His time, energy, and money
>serves us well. But there's no such thing as a free lunch.
>
>Matt, if you are too timid to give us your address, I hope someone else will.
>
>An avid lister.
Well Louis,
We usually do this in February but I don't see anything wrong with a little
pre-holiday donations. If Matt will post his current address I think we can
get him a check. For all you new listers, We usually ask you to ask
yourself what the list is worth to you and then ask you send Matt about
1/10 th that value.
It's usaully around $10 or so.....sometimes more sometimes less. Matt does
this list out of his own pocket and our donations. Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
| From: | gasobek(at)juno.com (Gary A. Sobek) |
The NAV antennae that go in the wing tip made by Bob Archer and sold
under the name Sport Craft (I think?) are probably one of the best NAV
antennae on the market. His antenna design has been used for over 20
years in the T-18's. Bob is retired TRW SPACEcraft (satellite) Antenna
design engineer. I am not aware of anyone who has had more than POOR
performance with a COMM antenna in the wing tip. Nav signal is
Horizontally polarized. Com signal is Vertically polarized. I would
need to pull out my old ARRL Antenna Handbook to make sure but I think
there is a least a 3dB loss when a Vertical polarized signal is received
by a horizontally polarized antenna. 3dB is 1/2 power loss. Maybe one
of the antennae types would know EXACTLY how much loss there is.
Gary A. Sobek
AeroSPACE Electrical Systems Engineer
FAA A&P
N157GS RV-6 O-320 Hartzell w/Archer nav antennae.
writes:
>
>
>Have you thought about the Com/Nav antennas you can put in the
>wingtips?
>Does anyone have experience with these?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sybase.com!halk(at)matronics.com
>[SMTP:sybase.com!halk(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 03, 1997 5:52 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Antennae for RV6A????
>
>Kempthorne)
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have some questions about antennas.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Edwards <CTE(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Primer Questions |
The only primers I could find in a spray can was Tempo brand Zinc Rich
Primer for Cold Galvanizing and Sherwin Williams brand 988 Self Etching
Primer are either of these acceptable for priming my RV8???
Chris Edwards
RV-8 #80231
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
> Yes, Pat is the sole importer of the engine so Atlas is the only
> source of new parts. Pat has a large shop with new engines in stock
> and he does have the commonly used parts such as pistons, rings, seals
> and gaskets. The piston walls are very hard, so they do not require
> boring for a TOH, just honing. New cylinders are $1000 a piece.
> Also, come TBO, the total cost of the replacement parts exceeds the
> price of a new engine, so you simply buy a new engine minus the
> accessories.
A monopoly has its advantages.
When I checked out this engine a year or so ago, the literature said the
cylinders have field replacable sleeves that cost $60 each.
Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an RV |
Rick:
First: Do you have an Aussie Licence ? When I was flying in Australia in
the early senventies it took some efforts for an American Pvt Pilot to get
an Australian license not to mentions av map (most of the country was coverd
only in b/w WAC charts. A customised Shell motor map was used to fly around
Sydney) , av communications etc.
Second: "Things" were not easily brought into the country. My antique
handgun stayed with customs for several months. Once I had it in my house
the local police made periodic cheks. What I am trying to say: do your
homework re bringing an US experimental AP into Australia.
Best to contact the Australian equivalent of the EAA. There are some RV
builders on the list who could help you.
>US but living in Australia for two years so after purchase I would be
>shipping the plane down to Sydney. I do not have the time to build,
Safe and happy landings -ALWAYS!
Lothar* K.|| Denver, CO || NOW finishing FLUGHAUS (=carriagehouse)
|| loocking for RV- 6 JIG || ready to jig soon ||| *(pron'd: "low-TARR")
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jperri(at)interserv.com |
Anyone got an idea where I can get main bearings for a Lyc. IO-360 ?
Been waiting for three months for Textron/Lyc.
Note need .003 over standard.
Thanks
JMP RV-6 and still rebuilding
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jperri(at)interserv.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
----------
From: BJ Nash[SMTP:connectnet.com!bjnash(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 1997 11:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: FLYING LESSONS
FLYING LESSONS FROM THE GEESE
And did you ever notice that one side of the geese "V" formation is longer than
the other. Do you know why that is?
v
v v
v V
V V
V
Because there's more geese on that side.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lundquist" <DLUNDQUIST(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
Gary Sobek wrote:
> The NAV antennae that go in the wing tip made by Bob Archer and sold
> under the name Sport Craft (I think?) are probably one of the best NAV
> antennae on the market. His antenna design has been used for over 20
> years in the T-18's. Bob is retired TRW SPACEcraft (satellite) Antenna
> design engineer. I am not aware of anyone who has had more than POOR
> performance with a COMM antenna in the wing tip. Nav signal is
> Horizontally polarized. Com signal is Vertically polarized. I would
> need to pull out my old ARRL Antenna Handbook to make sure but I think
> there is a least a 3dB loss when a Vertical polarized signal is received
> by a horizontally polarized antenna. 3dB is 1/2 power loss. Maybe one
> of the antennae types would know EXACTLY how much loss there is.
This is one of those areas where theory and practical reality differ to a
large
degree. In THEORY a "purely" vertically polarized signal will not couple
at all
to a "purely horizontal" signal and vice versa. Playing with antennas on a
test
range you can observe if you are carefull these very deep nulls between the
cross polarizations. I believe with dipole antennas (or the 1/4 wave whips
used for
NAV or COM) the attenuation is the cosine
of the angle between the two. 0deg ==> 0db, 45deg ==> 3db, 60deg ==> 6db,
and so on until you reach 90deg and get infinite atten. I believe some
military applications use circularly polarized "patch" antennas which yeild
a
constant 3db loss when coupled to a linearly polarized antenna but are
insensitive
to rotation. For you Hams out there, I think this is the reason the UHF
satellite
stuff is circularly polarized.
Couldn't resist putting in my $0.02 when I had $0.02 to put in
Dave Lundquist
RV-6 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
>>
>>Anyone got an idea where I can get main bearings for a Lyc. IO-360 ?
>>Been waiting for three months for Textron/Lyc. =20
>>Note need .003 over standard.
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>JMP RV-6 and still rebuilding
>
Try Preferred Airparts: 1 800 433 0814 otherwise, El Reno Aviation in
El Reno, Ok
=20
Send email to infobot(at)pdsig.n2.net for a directory of interesting stuff!
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Bill Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Aircraft Remanufacturing Corp
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1531 Avohill Dr
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760) 749 0239
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)pdsig.n2.net
http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/index.html =20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Birth of a new Web Site |
Fellow listers,
This is to announce the arrival of a 12 lb. 14 oz. RV Web Site. It has
been a difficult birth, and rumor has it that the site was dropped on
its head during delivery.
You are cordially invited to visit the site and make comments, bravos,
and snide remarks as you see fit. I look forward to your critique and
suggestions for improvements.
Here tis:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Sorry, that is as complicated as I could make the URL. Hope you don't
have any problems finding it.
Thanks,
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
RV6 empennage in the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com> |
| Subject: | crating and shipping |
I am about to order my -6A QB, and found out that it is going to cost about
$1200 between crating and shipping to get it here. (Arizona) I can do it
for about half that if I fly and rent a uhaul. Any suggestions? Has anyone
picked it up and wished they had spent the money to have it shipped?
Thanks..
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D Hiatt" <ottopilot_msn(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Important List Information! |
Louis, you're absitively right! Matt? How about a phone number so we can
heat-up the old VISA card?
--
Mark D Hiatt Visit us on the new MSN v2.5!
OttoPilot_MSN@msn.com http://Forums.msn.com/Aviation
Aviation Forum Manager, AvChat Mondays 10pm Eastern
The Microsoft Network
-----Original Message-----
From: Louis Willig <op.net!larywil(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Important List Information!
>
> Today, we should all write Matt Dralle.....a check.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
Just a note to let you know about my web site. It has a couple of pictures
of the RV-4 that I sold in July 1996. I hope to have some pictures of my
RV-8 there soon. It is located at http://members.aol.com/Lousmith/rv.html
Louis Smith
RV-4 N102LS sold
RV-8 N801RV wings attached
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
This is a test.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Rubber |
>Do most of you adhere the rubber sealing strip to the wing root fairing sheet
>metal using a contact adhesive or will it stay in place by just slipping it
>on with no adhesive?
>-GV
Gary,
I didn't glue my strips on and they've stayed attached to the root
fairings for 380+ hours. A friend didn't glue his on, either, and a few
inches on the bottom of one fairing came loose and made a terrible noise in
the first few hours of his test period.
He landed to check it out and discovered that one cowl hinge pin was just
about into the prop. What really amazed me was that the pin hadn't broken.
The "eye" was still screwed to the cowl and the pin vibrated out to form a
180 degree bend. The bend just about got the prop. If you would have told
me this was possible, I would have said, "No way." So I guess that no glue
on the strip saved him a lot of money.
Bob Skinner RV-6 380 hrs Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an RV |
> Second: "Things" were not easily brought into the country. My
> antique handgun stayed with customs for several months. Once I had it
> in my house the local police made periodic cheks. What I am trying
> to say: do your homework re bringing an US experimental AP
> into Australia.
Off topic note: Don't even think of taking a gun to Australia again. The
Government has banned just about everything, and now the campaign is gearing
up against bolt action .22s.
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I just thought I would mention that after working with the completion of
6 or so RV's and the teething pains that they some times have when new.
I can say for a fact that what is true for some is not true for others (
as far as what happens in particular conditions and what you can do to
fix it). What I am really saying is that every RV is produced by a
different manufacturer, and its sometimes surprising how much lack of
commonality there is from one to another. I have helped quite a few
builders with there airplanes and have done a few pre buy inspections,
and every one seems to do things just a little bit different. As a
result it may take some trial and error testing to solve the problem on
your airplane versus what worked on someone else's, but everyone keep the
Ideas coming; IMHO this sort of information is what is the most valuable
on this list.
So.... I'll add to it some general info that I have observed with
different RV's Besides what I said above.
RV-4's seem to always cool better (on the average) than RV-6/6A's
With a lot of the RV's I have worked with, 85 deg F. (ground elev.) does
seem to be a particular point at which any increase in air temp gets an
increase in oil temp.
Oil temp in flight is affected by the RPM you run the engine at in
cruise. (Which also correlates to the amount of power you are producing)
A remote mounted oil cooler with air fed by SCAT tube seems to always run
warmer. (I don't know anyone with an RV-6/6A in Arizona that had success
with a remoted oil cooler, I think maybe 1 RV-4 it worked OK Not sure)
The quality of seal you get with your baffle system can have a major
effect (even if the CHT's seem to be acceptable) on Oil temps. Sometimes
its not as good as you think it is.
Engine Brand new /newly overhauled? Or is it a little closer to TBO.
Can cause a variation in oil temp.
Carburetor, Ellison, AIrflow Perf. or bendix fuel injection, each have
different types of problems (a fuel system that works great for one
may be horrible on another).
Other than that the best advice I've found is to find someone close by
that has an engine/induction system the same as yours and that you know
they have had no problems when flying in the warmest environment you
would ever expect to encounter - and copy it- exactly. If you change
even the most minor little thing there is a possibility of different
results. If you are already flying, do the same one thing at a time
until you get results.
Hope this is some help.
Scott Mc
P.S. Your RV has not yet been tested until you land out west in the
mountains somewhere that airport elev. is 6000 ft MSL, OAT at ground
level is 95 deg F. and your only on the ground for a quick 10 min. fuel
stop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | List Contributions... |
>>>>-----------
>>>>Listers!
>>>>
>>>>I will hopefully be upgrading the Matronics email system from the current
>>>>UUCP connectivity to a new dedicated Internet connection this week. The
>>>>order is in and I am expecting to get the go ahead for cutover tomorrow
>>>>(Tuesday).
>>>>
>>>> Matt Dralle
>>>
>>>
>>>Today, we should all write Matt Dralle.....a check. You know..$$$$.
>>>Its time again for those of us who can't wait to get home and boot up the
>>>"list" to remember how hard Matt works for us. His time, energy, and money
>>>serves us well. But there's no such thing as a free lunch.
>>>
>>>Matt, if you are too timid to give us your address, I hope someone else
>>>will.
>>>
>>>Louis Willig
>>>An avid lister.
>>
>>
>>Well Louis,
>>
>>We usually do this in February but I don't see anything wrong with a little
>>pre-holiday donations. If Matt will post his current address I think we can
>>get him a check. For all you new listers, We usually ask you to ask
>>yourself what the list is worth to you and then ask you send Matt about
>>1/10th that value. It's usaully around $10 or so.....sometimes more
>>sometimes less. Matt does this list out of his own pocket and our
>>donations. Al
>>
>>
>>
>>Louis, you're absitively right! Matt? How about a phone number so we can
>>heat-up the old VISA card?
>>
>>Mark D Hiatt
>>-------------
Listers-
I would like to thank everyone for coming forward with the support for the
List. Support from the members really means a lot and goes a long way to
make the List finically possible for me. As Louis, Al, Mark, and others
have pointed out, supporting the List is a great deal of work and keeping
the List running smoothly is no small task (if I do say so myself). The
upcoming upgrade to a dedicated Internet connection will certainly make
a significant difference in the quality and timelyness of delivery. The
new connectivity will represent a rather large increase in cost, however.
I feel that the importance of the information and ideas exchanged here on
the List justifies the increase and I hope that everyone else does too.
Donations in the past have ranged from $10 to $100 with many in the $20
and $30 amounts. As Al pointed out, if you find the List a valuable resource,
please donate according to the level of usefulness, or enjoyment you have
received. If the List saves you even one screw-up on a piece of sheet metal
or on the canopy, it has saved you 100s of dollars if not more. Please
also remember that *all* money I receive from List donations goes directly
into the support or improvment of the List operation and that's it. I don't
even buy a Coke or a pack of Twinkies with it!
Again, I would like to thank everyone for their generous support of the List.
Your support means a great deal and is directly responsible for the quality
of the List.
You may send or FAX contributions to:
List Support
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
510-606-6281 FAX
510-606-1001 Voice
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
<< Would you explain why a vapor return line is not needed on an injected
setup. >>
A fuel return line is beneficial if not required for fuel injected systems.
This carries excess fuel in a recirculating loop from the feeding tank so
that the multiport injectors or the servo always has liquid fuel on tap and
at the correct pressure.
The system that was being described is a vapor only return line for
conventionally aspirated systems and some people find that this restricted
line from near the carb inlet needs to return only to the selector valve to
be sufficiently helpful in avoiding vapor lock.
The two setups are not equivalent.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (James E Ayers) |
writes:
>
(Snip)
> I believe with dipole antennas (or the 1/4 wave whips used for NAV or
COM)
(Snip)
>Dave Lundquist
>RV-6 emp
Bob Archer's Sportcraft NAV and COM antenna's are not dipole antenna's,
nor 1/4 wave whip antenna's.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re(2): Ivoprop VP Magnum prop (chatter) |
<345EDA00.E16B2F8D(at)ix.netcom.com>
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (James E Ayers) |
writes:
>Thats all fine Jim but is that he reason I don't see spinners on
>Ivo props? I sure don't want to fly my RV with out a spinner.
>
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
>jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
Gee. I'm really sorry to hear that.
Not that it would neccessarily matter to you, but my 9 3/4" diameter
spinner doesn't have a front bulkhead. The backplate broke on the way to
Oshkosh.
I didn't get a replacement backplate from ACS prior to flying to Van's
Fly-In.
Otherwise, I've always have a spinner for my RV-3. I've only
deliberitely left the spinner off when I was constantly inspection the
blades between Dec. 1995 and July 1996. (I did leave the backplate on.)
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
<>
But then, when was the last time you saw a Lexus cruising along at 8,000 ft,
and around 190 MPH. That's like comparing apples and oranges.
Compared to a 4 cylinder Lycombing, or Continental, a six cylinder
horizontally opposed engine, of any type, is smooth.
Now if you want "real smooth" go to a 4360 P&W radial. May have to extend the
gear legs a bit, to accomodate that 14' diameter 4 blade prop though. May
have to add a periscope, and beef up the firewall too.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Robbins <robm(at)am2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New NTSB recommendations |
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
>
> The November edition of the AOPA "On Approach" states on page 15 that
> the NTSB has recommended that the FAA revise registration procedures and
> "strengthen training requirements for owners of experimental kit-built
> aircraft:.
>
> Does anyone know what this is all about?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
During the NTSB board meeting held during Oshkosh '97, the board
approved three safety recommendations that specifically addressed
"amateur built" airplanes. Remember, these are just recommendations at
this time.
One addressed changes to the way the FAA data base lists the
registration of amateur built airplanes. This rec is intended to
provide a standardized way to locate the owners of kit planes so that
manufacturers can know who owns airplanes produced from their kits and
can provide timely safety information.
The recommendation you are referring to, in my mind, doesn't really
"strengthen requirements" but makes provisions to allow limited use of
experimental aircraft for hire for type specific pilot training prior to
that first flight. As I recall, such time would not be applicable
toward ratings, thus, the initiative is intended to allow a means for
pilots to acquire some experience in a similiar type homebuilt before
testing their own. The NTSB web site http://www.ntsb.gov is down right
now, but should have details of the three recs somewhere.
Mitch Robbins http://am2.com robm@am2.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Davis" <aldavis(at)fair.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder pedals |
I drilled three sets of holes at 3", 4", & 5". I extended the brake pedal
side plates by 1/2" also. I don't have my uphostery in yet but while
sitting on a few inches of padding I think I will be using the 3" set of
holes. The pedels have plenty of clearance. With the other sets of holes
already drilled I shouldn't have any problem moving them back if necessary.
Al Davis RV-6
Jacksonville,FL
----------
> The problem I see is that until I sit in the airplane I do not know if
> the 4 inch from the firewall location will work for me. I was thinking
> of drilling three sets of holes so that later I can position the pedals
> 4", 5" and 6" from the firewall depending on how far away I want them
> once the fuselage is upright.
>
> Has anyone else done this? Any advise?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Robbins <robm(at)am2.com> |
> Anyone got an idea where I can get main bearings for a Lyc. IO-360 ?
> Been waiting for three months for Textron/Lyc.
> Note need .003 over standard.
>
> Thanks
>
> JMP RV-6 and still rebuilding
>
I hate to use the word in public, but if you get desperate, try
Superior. http://www.superair.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING LESSONS |
Made me laugh!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <AndersonE(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Important List Information! |
Matt,
Thanks a million for the effort you put into making the RV-List so
successful. Yeah! little glitches from time to time, but that is a minor
thing considering that the information exchanged on the list not only is of
great help to builders, but even more importantly has undoubtedly enhanced
safety of a number of subscribers.
Personal Thanks
Ed
----------
From: Louis Willig
Subject: Re: RV-List: Important List Information!
Date: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 9:44PM
>Listers!
>
>I will hopefully be upgrading the Matronics email system from the current
>UUCP connectivity to a new dedicated Internet connection this week. The
>order is in and I am expecting to get the go ahead for cutover tomorrow
>(Tuesday).
Today, we should all write Matt Dralle.....a check. You know..$$$$.
Its time again for those of us who can't wait to get home and boot up the
"list" to remember how hard Matt works for us. His time, energy, and money
serves us well. But there's no such thing as a free lunch.
Matt, if you are too timid to give us your address, I hope someone else
will.
An avid lister.
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
<< Anyone got an idea where I can get main bearings for a Lyc. IO-360 ?
Been waiting for three months for Textron/Lyc.
Note need .003 over standard.
Thanks
JMP RV-6 and still rebuilding >>
Try Triad Aviation. 800-334-6437 They are a Lycoming authorized dist.
Superior Air Parts 800-487-4884
Louis Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
A fuel return line is beneficial if not required for fuel injected systems.
This carries excess fuel in a recirculating loop from the feeding tank so
that the multiport injectors or the servo always has liquid fuel on tap and
at the correct pressure.
The system that was being described is a vapor only return line for
conventionally aspirated systems and some people find that this restricted
line from near the carb inlet needs to return only to the selector valve to
be sufficiently helpful in avoiding vapor lock.
It could be that the higher
pressures associated with F.I. systems are responsible for less vapor
lock/more heat tolerance, so a return isn't often needed.
In otherwords, by
returning it to the fuel line thru the fitting rather than thru the tank you
are making the problem worst (for a fuel injection system) not better.
Peww!
Now I'm totally confused!! All the discussions I've had in the past suggest that
fuel injected
engines are MORE prone to this problem and that if you are thinking about installing
injection you
SHOULD consider putting a return line back to a tank. Perhaps this is more related
to a hot start
problem with F.I.
I did and I didn't...I mean I put injection on my engine with no return line and
I'd hate like hell
to have to re-plumb my tank.
I have the "burbles" at low rpm when heat soaked and despite blast tubes, reflective
tape etc I
can't get rid of them. I had considered doing the Jim Cone thing and routing a
line back to the
selector but Ed Anderson indicated this could make it worse.
I have yet to move my gascolator to the wing route and put my electric fuel pump
in the cockpit.
Perhaps this will cause a sufficient loss of hot mass in the fuel system to eliminate
the problem
so a return line is not necessary....
comments?
Ken RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduit |
<< Question for Lyc IO 180 owners....Any one know of an inexpensive fuel
boost pump other than the usual Dukes pump?
D.Reed .Wings RV6A
>>
Call Don at Airflow Performance - I recall a $300 or so price for his pump,
which won't be destroyed if run dry for a bit.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
Just a note to advise those in the Minneapolis area of the next meeting of
the MN Wing. Date is Saturday Nov 15 at Fleming Field, South St. Paul. MN.
Time is 9:00 am. We well meet at the brand new terminal building. The
program is a tour of Wipaire Inc.s paint facility hosted by manager Mike
Aune. A great opporunity to learn the ins and outs of aircraft painting.
For details email me or call.
Doug Weiler
*******************************************
Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
>
><< << The RVAtor has a picture of the Bill Davis RV4 with Turtledeck. I have
> been
> told the transition aft of the canopy is a problem, aerodynamically
>speaking
> and I also have noticed the Harmon Rockets have the Turtledeck.
>
> If anyone has info on this modification as far as speed gains go, please
> post
> it to the list as I would like to do anything within reason to make my RV4
> go
> fast. >>
>
>Read Kent Paser's, "Speed with Economy." He describes how to do this with a
>Mustang II and documents the speed increases. Although he did it with a
>different airplane, it is the same process for the same problem, and it is
>well documented.
>
>Check the classifieds in Sport Aviation for how to get the book.
>
>Bob Busick
>RV-6
>Fremont CA
>
Here it is: Paser Publications
5672 West Chestnut Ave
Littleton, CO 80123
303-979-3666
$24.95
Tax if in CO
S&H $3.50 for 1 book, $1.50 for each additional
Surfact shipping - 3 to 4 weeks, Air Mail $5.00 per book
I am no x-pert and only at the stage of empennage on order, but I think
this is a book that every serious builder should read and digest before
building. Its easier to change something at the start rather than modify it
later. Paser also has a good section on plenums
Bruce Knoll
6A empennage ordered, Bill B. said del. this week.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switch |
> I guess I have once again "lost the bubble" on one of your threads. Let me
>recap my understanding of what has passed here and you can tell me where I
>reached the wrong conclusion.
>
>1) There was a copy of a message to Avweb posted by someone with
>acknowledged expertise advocating the use of an avionics master to protect
>any/all installed avionics in an aircraft during engine start.
>
The keyword here is "protect" . . . the AMS was birthed 30 years
ago. Avionics have evolved through 4-5 generations of technology
advancements but our way of thinking about them has not.
>2) There was a reply from you stating that the avionics master is an
>anachronism that has no place in a homebuilt using modern avionics and
>electrical system layout/design techniques.
>3) Flurry of responses from listers saying, "yeah but if the switch cost so
>little and could potentially save me thousands of dollars in repairs on my
>avionics, why not use it?"
Because, if it's the ONLY power path to all the radios, then
it's far more likely to be the source of failure for all radios
than to be the guardian angel for any radio.
If one wants an AMS, by all means have one but do good systems
design and ASSUME that all wiring and components are subject to
failure. Any such failure kills all radios. Radios, (and a few
other "essential" items should be supplied via independent power
paths. See <http://www.mosci.com/buildersden/nuckolls_philosophy.html>
or Sport Aviation, Feb 93, p.80 for a more detailed discussion.
>4) Ongoing debate amongst you and various listers stating that manufacturers
>should be forced by the laws of supply and demand economics to provide
>avionics that are impervious to any power supply anomalies.
They already are. The thrust of my words was to suggest that if
you don't believe it, ask 'em. If any manufacturer admits to
some form of fragility in their design beyond gross overvoltage,
ask them why they don't conform to the industry standard testing
regime DO-160. I'm working on an article about DO-160 which I
will publish on our website and elsewhere.
> I guess its #4 above that prompted my post. I was under the impression from
>your postings that there is still avionics gear on the market that is
>subject to problems during engine start.
. . . if there are, I'm unaware of them. I've asked everyone to show me
documentation from any manufacturer that requires pilot intervention
to "protect" their product from ordinary airplane systems operations.
Starting the engine seems pretty ordinary. Further, I'd like to
know about it. I'll write or call them and get the scoop. I did write
to Terra some years ago about a statement in their installation
manuals alluding to an AMS . . . the engineer said, "Oh, we just stuck
that in there because everyone seems to expect it. Sure, we've done
our homework for input power conditioning."
> . . . . . . Your response to my post implies
>that this is not the case. If that is so, then how do you explain the Avweb
>post that started this whole thing? Was that guy just plain wrong?
Not for 1970, but for 1997 I'll have to say, "yes".
> . . . . And what
>was the point of your repeated posts calling for change to be forced on
>avionics manufacturers by the marketplace? I guess I am no less confused
>about what you are trying to say than I have been all along.
The "call to arms" was intended as an inducement to consumers of
expensive, complex equipment to find out for themselves if the ol'
mechanics and pilot's tales are worthy of consideration. The Avweb
article was simply a repeat of a 30 year old mantra. Quite frankly,
people who build this stuff don't care much one way or another.
It doesn't HURT their product for you to "mother" it. However, based
on points in the article referenced above, the "mothering" circuitry
has a potential for bringing the whole system down. Further, an
electrical system FMEA shows there are times when you may want to
shut down both normal battery and alternator circuits for best utilization
of a finite quatity of energy in the battery. This ALSO calls for the
second power path to essential goodies.
All technology based products experience quantum jumps in performance and
value happen every few years. Gizmos that run from automotive dc power
systems are included. There's not 2 cents worth of difference between
the dc power system in your airplane and the one on your garden tractor
or car. EVERYBODY in these markets have had access to transient
supressors,
high voltage silicon transistors and high quality capacitors for over 15
years. For a very nominal cost, today's products can thumb their nose
at ANYTHING the dc power system throws at it . . . including overvoltage
to the tune of 20 volts for 1 second . . . plenty of time for an ov system
to react and tame the runaway alternator.
> Please understand that I dont intend this as any type of flame. I have no
>knowledge of avionics whatsoever. The various standards that you have
>referred to in this thread mean nothing to me. I, as do many other listers,
>rely on the expertise of others such as yourself to attempt to make an
>intelligent decision. When expert advice from 2 different sources conflicts,
>what are we supposed to do? I'm simply trying to avoid making a very
>expensive mistake.
I fully understand and no offense taken. I also understand your problem.
As spam-can owners, we have had to take comfort in the reams of regulation
and decades of tradition (I prefer to call it mired in the ruts). Now
you're a one-man airplane factory and you're getting some exposure to
a few of the issues that were once left to unseen gurus. If you're more
comfortable having an AMS, put one in. But the REAL issue here is SYSTEM
reliability which goes far beyond concerns for "spikes" . . . real or
imagined. If I have a mission here, it's to ask people to focus less
on the minutia . . . it's admittedly easier to do and we all used to take
great comfort in spec'ing the bejabbers out of everything bolted to an
airplane. But what good is it to put a $100 mil-spec switch on a landing
light bulb that you KNOW is going to burn out? What we're really
interested
in is comfortable completion of every flight. I work toward that by
assuming
that EVERYTHING is subject to failure and I'll either have (1) a backup
or (2) don't need it. My real heartburn with the classic AMS has nothing
to do with "spikes" . . . it has to do with system reliability in that
it goes against well considered design. There are a number of articles
on our website that speak to these issues.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff J. Dingbaum" <dingbaum(at)hep.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
I attended an EAA meeting about two weeks ago where the featured speaker
had build a Lancair. Beautiful job. He went thru a punch list of all the
things that he had encounted in his 4000 hours of build time. He spent a
LOT of time on airflow under the cowl. He had high oil temps that he
would tinker with. Sharks fins cooled it a little. A better directed and
shaped inflow duct (sorry, wrong terminology) helped a little. A larger
airscoop doesn't always help, it will just rush more air through faster
and may even create hot spots. He also noticed a small line of bugs on
his primed cowl (yeah, who takes the bugs off a primer job?) Well, the
bugs were getting sucked into a nice ring around the cowl, indicating air
was also backflowing behind the prop and getting into the cowl between the
lower pressure and high pressure areas (just repeating this). He built
some baffling that helped a little.
So, everything he's done so far has helped a little each time. Nothing
major. One day he is looking at outflow ducting (terminology again) and
its rough fiberglass. On a hunch he glasses the inside smooth. Oil temps
drop 30 or 40 degrees. It seems that the rough ducting was creating air
damns that were acutally holding the air inside the cowl.
This may not be germain, but I thought that I would tell it. He spent
a LOT of time thinking and tinkering on this. What may appear the
solution really isn't. Incidentally, Lancair reportedly wasn't
interested in his solution.
Jeff Dingbaum HEP Network Resource Center @ Fermilab
dingbaum(at)hep.net PO Box 500, MS368
system admin, webmaster, Batavia, IL 60510-0500
postmaster, coffeemaker (630)840-8472 (630)840-8463 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: crating and shipping |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I am about to order my -6A QB, and found out that it is going to cost about
> $1200 between crating and shipping to get it here. (Arizona) I can do it
> for about half that if I fly and rent a uhaul. Any suggestions? Has anyone
> picked it up and wished they had spent the money to have it shipped?
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul
>
Paul,
Mitch Faatz and I did this to pick up his quickbuild -6A from North Plains
to San Jose, CA. While we had "fun?" doing it, it took us a good 14 hrs to make
the
drive. The folks at Van's loaded everything up with our help, and we were on our
way.
The drive to Arizona would be a killer if your driving mostly non-stop.
Are you sure with air fare, truck rental, food, and a motel stop that you wil save
half?
Are your flying a friend up with you? I beleive our relatively short trip saved
money,
but from Arizona I'm not so sure.
If you do chose to go get it, arrange for some flight instruction with Mike Segar.
You might as well get in a couple of hours of flight instruction while you're there.
Also allow time for the factory and shop tours!
Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage
N648RV
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
>
>The NAV antennae that go in the wing tip made by Bob Archer and sold
>under the name Sport Craft (I think?) are probably one of the best NAV
>antennae on the market. His antenna design has been used for over 20
Question:
Does the use of wingtip strobes preclude the use of wingtip antennae?
I planned on both and it just dawned on me that it might be a bad idea.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
Many applications also polarize at 45 degrees as a compromise when dealing
with signals of unknown polarization, or when polarity can change due to
antenna movement. Not a good choice though if the signal is known to be
vertical polarity (comm) because you will suffer the 3db loss mentioned
previously.
As far as Jim Ayers' antenna in his vertical stab, its actually mounted on
top of his vertical in an extended fiberglass tip. The extra vertical stab
height is noticeable if you look close enough. Its a pretty slick idea.
Mike Wills
RV-4(wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
I believe some
>military applications use circularly polarized "patch" antennas which yeild
>a
>constant 3db loss when coupled to a linearly polarized antenna but are
>insensitive
>to rotation. For you Hams out there, I think this is the reason the UHF
>satellite
>stuff is circularly polarized.
>Dave Lundquist
>RV-6 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Master Switch |
<< When expert advice from 2 different sources conflicts,
what are we supposed to do? >>
What do you do when the smartest Republican and the smartest Democrat
profoundly disagree?
There is no ultimate truth. You must decide based on your own judgment and
the relative persuasiveness of the respective arguments you have heard,
applied to your own situation and desires. Then live with your decision.
JMHO.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing aluminum, does anyone know how? |
wrote:
>>
>>
>>On Sun, 2 Nov 1997, Dick Hendrickson wrote:
>>
>like to make parts of the handels out of anodized aluminum
> for some of them. Currently he uses titanium and does the
> anodizing himself (he's got quite a complete workshop). But,
> he can't find any information on anodizing aluminum. He's
> found lots of commercial places that will do it for him, but he'd
> like to learn how to do it himself.
Reynolds Aluminum, years ago, published "Finishes For Aluminum", now
available as a reprint from Lindsay Publications, P.O. Box 12
Bradley, Il 60915-0012 (Don't call, write). It covers many
different finishes including anodizing...
Send email to infobot(at)pdsig.n2.net for a directory of interesting stuff!
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Bill Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Aircraft Remanufacturing Corp
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1531 Avohill Dr
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760) 749 0239
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)pdsig.n2.net
http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Donations to Matt Dralle are certainly a good idea, but I'd also
like everyone to consider donating something to Frank Justice for
his excellent manual. I don't know about others on the list, but
I use his instructions almost exclusively as Van's documentation
is vauge at best.
So, how about it Randall Henderson, can you get me/us Frank's
snail mail address so I/we can send him something?
Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
<19971104.085537.3438.0.greenrv(at)juno.com>
| From: | rvsixer(at)juno.com (michael d hilger) |
I sold my Cessna 140 (700 hrs of truly fun flying) to start my RV-6 four
years ago. I cheated though. Sold it to a friend, so I still get to fly
it now and then. It hurt to sell it, but
having flown some RV's I know my new RV will be "funner".
Mike Hilger
rvsixer(at)juno.com
RV-6, fuse
out of jig
Fitting turtledeck
skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com> |
| Subject: | crating and shipping |
If you want to take the time, u-hauling it shouldn't be a problem. I only had
to go a short distance (150 miles) but it was easy. Van's has the necessary
info on local rentals and does an excellent job loading it up. Be sure to
verify reservations including pads availability prior to truck pick-up. I had
to go to a different location to pick-up pads which caused a time crunch.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
I am about to order my -6A QB, and found out that it is going to cost about
$1200 between crating and shipping to get it here. (Arizona) I can do it
for about half that if I fly and rent a uhaul. Any suggestions? Has anyone
picked it up and wished they had spent the money to have it shipped?
Thanks..
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWeek91970(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Empennage Builder questions |
<< How do most
>people "test squeeze" the first rivet?
Mike,
I put the rivet into the hole and put the squeezer with dies installed
next to the rivet and look at the relationship. I use a pneumatic squeezer
90% of the time. I put 3/16" washers under the sets and test and if more
spacers are needed, insert them.
If your using a hand squeezer, you can do the same thing and just keep
turning the adjustable ram until the rivet is set correctly.
Bob
>>
Also - get Washers in a standard thickness (AN960D6) and in a thin, or
'light' gage (AN960D6L) for more precise thickness adjustments. Also there
are various types of washers where a thick or standard size is 1/16" Thick
and the thin is 1/32" thick, and some whos standard or thick size is 1/32"
thick and the thin ones are 1/64" thick (or thereabouts).
Robert - Aircraft Manufacturing Employee (Assembler) in DeHavilland Canada
Inc.
Reply Direct to: RWeek91970(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduit |
<< Question for Lyc IO 180 owners....Any one know of an inexpensive fuel
boost pump other than the usual Dukes pump?
D.Reed .Wings RV6A
>>
Call Don at Airflow Performance - I recall a $300 or so price for his pump,
which won't be destroyed if run dry for a bit.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
This may sound stupid, but, what is the definition of a heavy wing? When I
let go of the stick the right wing wants to drop. So it's heavy, simple.
But when I fly level the right aileron is higher than the wingtip, so it's
pushing down, so the left wing is heavy, simple, right? If I fly with the
ailerons matching the wingtips it rolls left. Just pinch the high wing
trailing edge to fix it they say. OK. Which one?
________________________________________________________________________________
>
><< << The RVAtor has a picture of the Bill Davis RV4 with Turtledeck. I have
> been
> told the transition aft of the canopy is a problem, aerodynamically
>speaking
> and I also have noticed the Harmon Rockets have the Turtledeck.
>
> If anyone has info on this modification as far as speed gains go, please
> post
We were parked two over from Bill Davis at OSH this year. Here is what I
gleaned from him and also Sam James.
The turtledeck is good for about 5mph. Bill said he knows this from doing
it on his "other" planes. He also built the plenum and used the round
inlets. Talking to Sam,
the primary function of the round inlet is that it creates an easy shape to
seal the inlet
duct. You want no air leaks on the way in to the plenum. Sam indicated
that a plenum with properly sealed inlet ducts and appropriately reduced
inlet area is good for about 5mph. The "stock" inlet area is calculated
with a "leaky" cooling system. If you seal it up, you don't need as much
inlet area/flow.
Bill's plane was beautiful. I THINK he said he was getting somewhere
around 215mph
at 75%( don't quote me on that). He had an O-360/CS setup.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com> |
Mike, I don't believe that RG-59 coax is normally used for antennae, but
rather RG-58 which is a different size. My new IImorrow GPS/Comm has an
insert sheet that states RG-58 no longer meets current FAA guidelines (for
self extinguishing cables). They recommend RG-142B which also has a lower
signal loss. Don't know the size of RG-142B as I haven't got any yet. Maybe
somone else on the list does? Might make a difference on conduit fill.
Re: the discussion on getting wiring out into the wing. I used the
plastic tubing Van's sells and ran in through the lightening hole just
aft of the one that carries the aileron push rod. I fabricated .025
angles riveted to the ribs to allow a clamp for the conduit. I have the
wiring in the left wing for nav lights, strobe power and sync, landing
light and heated pitot/static. There is plenty of room for at least 2
RG-59 coaxes. Remember, don't fill a conduit more than about 75% full to
allow room to add more or rework later. From my years of wiring
installation designing at Boeing we also ran a pull cord through conduits
that was 2x the length of the conduit. Attach each end of the pull cord
at the ends of the conduit so it won't accidently disappear up the pipe.
If you don't get too rowdy pulling in extra wiring the flat, braided wire
lacing cord used to tie wire bundles is ok for the pull cord. I had to
have a break in the conduit at the pitot location to get that wire out
but that area can be reached through the aileron bell crank hole.
This brings up a question - I plan to use Whelen A490A power supplies in
each tip and need dimensional info to plan mounting. Does anyone have a
sketch or drawing of this part??
Mike Talley
RV-6 left wing almost ready to set aside
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING LESSONS |
>>
>>Made me laugh!!
>>
>>
>
I figured you guys were too focused on these RV construction problems
and needed some diversion! "All work and no play", etc, etc
bill nash
Send email to infobot(at)pdsig.n2.net for a directory of interesting stuff!
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Bill Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Aircraft Remanufacturing Corp
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1531 Avohill Dr
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760) 749 0239
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)pdsig.n2.net
http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/index.html =20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | RV-List archive searching |
pfclaw.com!SSoule(at)matronics.com wrote:
> By the way, I searched the archives. My cup runeth over! There was too
> much on pedals and rudders and not enough on adjusting the location of
> the pedals or determining where to locate them.
Been there! Any search seems to yield half a MB of responses, most of
which are irrelevant.
Matt, I hesitate to ask since I know that maintaining the List costs you
money and time already, but is there any chance of adding in a couple
more "search words" to be ANDed together to cut down the output a
little?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder pedals |
erols.com!moejoe03(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know where I can get the Justice builders manual? I didn't see it in
> the
> Avery Catalog.
The "Justice manual" is not a manual as such... it is an addition to
Van's manual, written by RV builder Frank Justice. It's available (for
free!) on-line at http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice.html. You may also
want to go to
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunnytop.htm --
that's my "Bunny's Guide to RV Building" which I'm sure you'll also find
useful.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines for sale |
| From: | rodwoodard(at)juno.com (Rodney W. Woodard) |
Hello Folks:
I called on this advertisement. They have two engines. One is 1457.1 TT,
and the other is 1793.42 TT. Both are first run and include all
accessories, no prop governor or vac pump. They are located in Florida.
$9500 for the lower time and $8500 for the higher time engine. I won't be
in the market for an engine for at least a year so I thought I'd pass
this along to ya'll.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
writes:
>
>We currently have two used aircraft engines for sale removed from a
>Mooney M20J aircraft for upgrade. Lycoming model IO-360-A3B6D strong
>running engines with low time. Call Lori Campbell at Mod Works for
>additional information at (800) 231-0201 or e-mail at
>sales(at)modworks.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
| From: | rodwoodard(at)juno.com (Rodney W. Woodard) |
I know where you can get a pretty decent Lexus for less than the price of
a Lycoming! :-)
Just looking for ways to finance my hobby!
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
>I think a lot of people are getting misled by this. A Lexus is
>smooth. A
>Franklin is not.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING LESSONS - Goose thing |
We got this sent around the company too. Several of us decided there are three
things one should keep in mind as they read this:
1 - When the geese do all these things, *THEY* benefit (not the company!).
2 - Many other lessons could be drawn from the same gabble.
3 - We aren't geese.
hal
>
>
> FLYING LESSONS FROM THE GEESE
>
>
> LESSON 1
>
> As each bird flaps its wings, it creates an uplift for the bird
> following.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I had a chance to talk with Tracy Saylor for a few minutes at Copper
State and he showed me the new com. ant. that he is using.
A piece of copper foil tape of the proper 1/4 wave length run down the
inside aft edg of the fiberglass gear leg fairing on his RV-6.
He said it appeared to work better than the bent wip com ant. that he
removed frm the belly. The fairings that he makes and sells are a little
wider cord than would be typical, and we specuolated that me be why it
works. He had tested in diffrent dirrections for recieve and Xmit and
said the gear leg didn't seem to effect it.
Scott Mc
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I've drilled and dimpled the F675 except for the line across the top of
the F607 bulkhead, per the manual. >>
Well, I couldn't find my F475, in the -4 plans, but I did find my F407
bulkhead. (Perhaps I just wasn't persistent enough in my search.) At any
rate, some advise from an old Lockheed structures assembler (and I am not
what one might consider the "consumate sheet metal worker") but I would
always pay very close attention to the "most narrow" surface I had to work
with. I do believe, that this would be the bulkhead flanges, in this
particular case. As long as you keep a decent distance from the "bend radius"
of the flange, and hold edge distance from the edge of the flange, my guess
is you'll come out pretty close to dead center of the flange. In all but the
most rare cases, this can be accomplished best, by back drilling, from the
inside out.
I would use (to back drill a few of these holes) a 1/16" drill (#40) and the
#40 silver clecos, to lock the bulkhead and skins in place. (Probably about
every 6" or so.)
Start at the very top centerline, and drill these holes from that point, down
both sides. Cleco each one as you go, to assure that you have the skins and
all, pulled down real tight to the bulkhead. (This might prevent skin
wrinkles later on, and creates a very good strength factor as you work, and
for the finished product.) Hopefully you have clamped everything together in
a reasonably decent manner, before hand.
<>
Don't worry about it, it bothers us all. Just check, check, and recheck,
before you punch that hole through.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Slave to the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FLYING LESSONS |
<< And did you ever notice that one side of the geese "V" formation is longer
than the other. Do you know why that is? >>
Even numbers can't fly in a true "V" formation, without an "odd goose out."
(That's the 'slot man'."
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp and Engine missing. |
<< I keep 100LL in one tank for takeoffs and landings, and auto
gas in the other for cruise. >>
Bob,
Dont take this the wrong way but! Is it really worth the effort to put 2
different types of fuel in the airplane. You know the engine doesent act
right on the auto gas. So wouldnt it be easier to spend that extra few cents
a gallon on the gas that agree's with your airplane in any condition? Lets
face it auto gas really isnt that much of a savings. What happens when you
take off with your buddys in a hurry some day (and you will) and you forget
to switch tanks? 50' in the air is not the time to find out the hard way.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Tim Lewis - Wing Root Fairing |
Tim,
I saw your note in the archives about installation of the wing root
fairing. What was the outcome? How did you do the installation? How much
did you have to trim? etc.? etc.?
Drop me a line at robert.cabe(at)usaa.com
Thanks,
Bob
---
"The opinions expressed herein are solely the author's
and are not necessarily the opinions of USAA."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LEIF STENER" <leif.stener(at)swipnet.se> |
Help! My F-601 is bent like an U. Last evening my friend was in my shop and
pointed out to me that my firewall didnt seem straight. Seen from up to
down there is a slight u bend. I dont know when it happend, can be the jig
or the angle bending I been doing. Any sugestions anybody.....
Ps. The skeleton is still in the jig and not riveted.
Leif Stener RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | John Denver accident |
Hi all.
I'm sure most of us who are building or flying a homebuilt
have had some comments directed at us regarding John Denver
and these "homebuilt things."
Just thought I would pass along some info I got from a
fellow homebuilder here at work. It comes from an
article in General Aviation News/Western Flyer (That's
probably not the exactly correct name, but close enough.)
Anyway, the story is that his plane hit a pelican. The
main theory is that it came through the canopy and
literally decapitated him resulting in him pushing
forward on the stick. The secondary theory is that
the pelican hit and broke the canard.
Fly safe out there and don't loiter along the shoreline
at 500 ft!
Doug Medema
RV-6A #21140 fuse off jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
> The best placement would be with the antenna vertically oriented below
> the ground plane. Hal's idea of putting it underneath the horizontal
> stab doesn't sound too bad.
I have wondered if a bent whip antennae could be mounted ahead of the V
stab and covered with a fiberglass dorsal fin, sort of like the P-51 (or
Cessna I suppose). I've seen an RV with this fin actually. I would like
to know if the proximity of sheet aluminum affects the reception or
transmission. Many have their ELT's inside near much skin surface. Does
this affect it much? I have been told that the length of the antennae
cable shouldn't exceed 8' for RG58, especially the transponder. Over that
length a bigger wire is needed (@$12/foot).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> Donations to Matt Dralle are certainly a good idea, but I'd also
> like everyone to consider donating something to Frank Justice for
> his excellent manual. I don't know about others on the list, but
> I use his instructions almost exclusively as Van's documentation
> is vauge at best.
> So, how about it Randall Henderson, can you get me/us Frank's
> snail mail address so I/we can send him something?
>
> Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage
Thanks, Ed, that's a good idea. Frank's address/phone is:
Justice, Frank
9725 SW 163rd Ave.
Beaverton, OR 97007
(503) 642-5713
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gil(at)bala.HAC.COM> |
>
>Mike, I don't believe that RG-59 coax is normally used for antennae, but
>rather RG-58 which is a different size. My new IImorrow GPS/Comm has an
Different impedance would be a better description .... RG-59 is 75
ohm cable, while our avionics use a 50 ohm cable - usually an RG-58 variant
>insert sheet that states RG-58 no longer meets current FAA guidelines (for
>self extinguishing cables). They recommend RG-142B which also has a lower
>signal loss. Don't know the size of RG-142B as I haven't got any yet.
Maybe
>somone else on the list does? Might make a difference on conduit fill.
RG-142B is listed under the "High Temperature MIL-C-17" section of my
Belden cable catalog. It is a low loss cable, and uses a Teflon inner and
a FEP (Flourinated ethelyne-propylene) and meets a vertical wire flame
test. It also does seem to have the lowest loss of all 50 ohm cables at
the 1000 MHz test frequency.
It's outer diam. is 0.195 inches (identical to RG-58 C/U)
It's not cheap, showing up at almost $2 per foot in 100 ft. quantities.
However, the thing that surprised me is the fact that it has a solid
inner conductor (of silver coated, copper covered steel - what a
combination). I always thought that a stranded inner was better for cables
that may be subjected to vibration, so .....
QUESTION FOR BOB NUCKELLS
Any problem with using this cable for our general avionics applications
due to it's having a solid inner conductor??
.... Gil (happen to have the cable catalog handy) Alexander
>
*** big snip ***
>
>Mike Talley
>RV-6 left wing almost ready to set aside
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richreyn <Richreyn(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Hampton Roads RV Flights |
Hampton Roads (VA) RV builders and wantabes. I contacted Mike Seager at Vans
about flying into Norfolk VA (ORF) the week of April 12-19. He likes to
schedule a minimun of 3 day (6 hr/day) and 10 people. Anyone interested in
instructions, please contact me off list for preliminary planning purposes.
Cost is $65/hour.
Richard Reynolds, RV-6A
richreyn(at)aol.com or757-627-8743
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richreyn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FAX List Contributions |
Is it OK to fax $20, or should I fax two $10s??????? (I could not resist)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hopefully the last item on Newt, politics, et al |
FOR CRYIN' OUT LOUD I APOLOGIZE!!!!!!!!!!!!
I accidently started this damn political thread by replying to the guy
looking for advice on why he should buy an RV-6 vs. a Mustang II. I was
being philosophical in my summation by saying, entirely in jest, that if Newt
becomes prez we all will be working for minimum wage so (and this was the
point, dammit) just go out there and buy something and get started.
I could have just as easily suggested he could be run over by a beer
truck....would that have started a thread on safe driving, trucks, back-up
beepers or beer?
This is an airplane/RV forum let's keep it there!!!
Sheesh, grumble, mutter, I'm gonna go have a beer. Oh hell, that probably
started someone on a snit about drinking!!!!!!! It's non-alcoholic for
crying out loud!!!
Bob the-tails-done-now-I-need-bucks-for-QB6-kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing tip antennae |
| From: | gasobek(at)juno.com (Gary A. Sobek) |
Got this off the list and thought I should share it.
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 16:55:30 -0600
Gary,
The theoretical attenuation of vertically-polarized signals received by a
horizontally-polarized antenna is infinite. At 120 MHz the transmitted
signal has a small vertical component. Scatter at the receive site helps
generate a bit more horizontal component.
In an RV wingtip one is probably giving up over 20 dB in polarization
loss.
Not good engineering practice!
Dennis Persyk amateur extra N9DP
6A fuselage
Barrington, IL
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What I Learned About Real IFR In My RV-6 |
I would not fly IFR without my Navaid Autopilot. It only takes but a second
of inattention to get the aircraft sideways (or worse - upside down). The
autopilot gives the aircraft a stiffer "feel" and still allows it to be hand
flown. Pitch control is not a problem assuming that the aircraft is trimmed
correctly.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | ELT antenna placement |
I'd be interested to know where some of you 6 and 6A drivers have been
mounting your Amer King AK 450 ELT airframe antennas. The one that came
with my ELT is too long to mount on the belly of the aircraft and I'm
afraid of complications when inspection time comes if the antenna is
mounted in the baggage compartment.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Securing brake lines |
Randall,
I would try an easy approach. First, I used SS braided lines. I ran the
lines through a plastic conduit down the gear legs. The conduit was secured
to the gear legs with ti-raps. As the gear legs flex, the lines can move
freely in the conduit. 200 Hours...no problems!
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
> I've drilled and dimpled the F675 except for the line across the top of
> the F607 bulkhead, per the manual. I'm toying with the idea of going
> ahead and drilling that row, as well. That way, I can back drill through
> the F674 when I put it on and will have a well defined line of holes to
> back drill through. How about some of you out there? Did you do it
> this way? For some reason, drilling through three layers without being
> able to see what I'm doing on each hole gives me heartburn.
Jim, you probably already solved your skin drilling problem, but I'll throw
in something of perhaps general interest. Any place in which the skins
overlap and are curved, be sure to remove the protective plastic film from
the overlap area. Since each film thickness is about .003" to .004", the
skins drilled with the film on them will not seem as tight when the film is
removed. This will probably be most noticable in the area of the
turtledeck overlap, since the total curvature is about 180 degrees.
Alex Peterson
6A Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
wrote:
>>Looking through lots of info, I find it hard to figure how much a good
>>quality paint job on a composite aircraft (Glassic SQ2000XP) would be.
>>It would be white and light grey underside. Anyone know of a good
>>website for a paint shop in southern california and or general pricing.
>>Can you get a good paint job for under $7000 on the SQ?
>>
>>Thank you in advance,
>>
>>Tyson
>>
I've discovered a paint company that has an unbelievable line of paint
products and is local to So. Cal, but ships everywhere: PROLINE PAINT
in San DIego. 1-619-231-2313
They have a product called the 8000 series polyurethane paint that is
(IMHO)a true poly and is superior to Imron and other high cost
paints. I've painted several aircraft with this product, all outside,
and the finish is great and the cost is 1/3 to 1/2 the other paints!
Another exciting product they have is a epoxy primer for aluminum
equivalent to zinc-chromate. This stuff is so durable it is difficult
to remove with a drill and rotary wire brush! (4001 I believe)
An amateur can paint their products if using a HVLP gun and if you
want to paint with shop air, use the Lexaire 2002 1-800-539-2473 they
make the best!
No, not connected with them, just admire a good company with good
products, reasonably priced! (Like Aircraft Spruce!).
bill nash
Send email to infobot(at)pdsig.n2.net for a directory of interesting stuff!
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Bill Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Aircraft Remanufacturing Corp
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1531 Avohill Dr
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760) 749 0239
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)pdsig.n2.net
http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com> |
| Subject: | setting wing incidence |
I have the wing bolted into the fuse for the all important task of drilling
the rear spar attatch point. After squaring the wing to the fuse(it is
level) I made the 2.8 in spacer block required to give the +1/2 deg of wing
incidence. When I leveled the wing I do not have the minimum edge clearance
for the attatch bolt (5/8 in).
What I am thinking I will do is, keep the wing level and move the
fuse to get the correct clearance. This is all good so far, but the
empennage will have to be adjusted in relation to the fuse so that it
maintains 1/2 deg less incidence than the wing. Because I am keeping the
wing level I should only have to level the Horiz Stab and everything should
be OK.
My question to you guys/gals. Am I correct in understanding the
relationship between the Wing and the Horizontal Stab. The wing should have
1/2 deg positive (up) and the Horiz Stab should be 0 deg of incidence. The
fuse doesn't care where it sits in relation to this, (not taking the engine
into account). I want to be very sure about this before drilling that hole
in the rear spar. Have any of you run into this problem when setting your
wing incidence, if so what did you do ? Are there any alligators lurking if
I should do it this way.....:)!
Marc DeGirolamo
RV-4 setting up wings and tail
Saskatoon, SK
mdee(at)dlcwest.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
Am preparing to install brake oil, (bleed lines, etc.) on my RV-6A. Any
suggestions on the best way to do this would be greatly appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING LESSONS |
>And did you ever notice that one side of the geese "V" formation is longer
>than the other. Do you know why that is?
v
>v v
v V
V V
V
I think I know that one, it's because there are more geese on one side than
on the other. : )
Joel Harding ab320flyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: battery cable |
>Sir Rabbit,
>
>I had occasion to talk with a professional aviation electrician today about
>the proposed wiring scheme for my GS. Took the opportunity to ask your
>question. This is what he said (illustrated by a visit into the hangar to
>show samples of welding cable he removed from a Super Cub, as well as the
>aviation cable). The main safety difference is that the insulation of
>welding cable, which is black rubbery stuff WILL support combustion and
>gives off very noxious, toxic fumes (think burnig rubber tires and worse)
>while the aviation cable insulation will not not burn.
The insulations are indeed different . . . tefzel and cousins
don't support combustion but they give off equally noxious if
not downright toxic fumes when the wires they contain are overheated.
We're talking red-heat type temperatures here too . . . not impossible
to generate in a battery cable with an RG battery but very difficult.
>
>Another difference is the size of the individual wire strands; much coarser
>in welding cable, very fine in aviation cable.
I'm thinking the "welding" cable he was comparing was not welding
cable but some other material. All the welding cables I've worked
with are designed to be VERY flexible and able to withstand a lot
of abuse (trucks run over them, they get handled a lot). The wire
stranding is VERY fine in order to achieve both flexibility and resistance
to flexure stresses. If the cable he was showing you had fewer,
heavier strands, it WASN'T welding cable . . . got it off a golf
cart maybe?
>This makes a difference
>because the prefered route of electrical conduction is on the surface of
>the conductor and the finer the component strands in a cable, the more the
>surface area to conduct electricity and the lower the resistance.
Total BS. So called "skin effect" comes into play in the megahertz
frequency range and is insignificant below tens of megahertz. It
doesn't happen at DC.
>He couldn't offer any specific comparison in terms of Ohms per foot however.
>Lastly, the connectors are available for the aviation cable but do not fit
>on the #2 welding cable as well.
Perfectly suitable connectors are available for ANY size wire.
>Many resort to soldering which produces a
>low resistance joint at first but which leads to fatigue failure presenting
>as increasing resistance across the solder line until it fails altogether.
Again, not consistent with the physics of the matter.
See <http://www.aeroelectric.com/ArtBigTerm/big_term.html>
I've been soldering things together for over 35 years including
some wiring that carried over 1000 amps . . . I can't even
imagine the failure mode being described here.
>It seems to me that with a well planned electrical system (assuming battery
>on the firewall) you ought only to need 3-4 feet of #2, so the cost
>difference is only on the order of $10. Go with the good stuff.
True . . . ACS gets about $3.75/ft for #2 and we get $1.75 when we
have it in stock (which reminds me, I'm about out and need to chase
down anohter spool). However, for airplanes with the battery in
back, runs are longer. Canard pushers with battery on opposite end
of airplane from engine need two long runs. Here the weight is
a bigger factor. #2 welding cable is heavier and bulkier but it's
very soft and much easier to work with. In fact, if you want to
run #2 wiring throughout the cranking circuit, I would RECOMMEND
welding cable be used for connections to the battery. These connections
tend to be short jumpers between battery and ground or battery and
contactor. #2 aircraft wire is so stiff that it's hard to work with
on short bend radii and stresses it's terminals more. Use #2 aircraft
wire everywhere else but nice, flexible battery connections are very
nice to work with. The afformentioned hazards are about as remote
as your wing falling off so for my money, it's a toss up. If you
can stand the weight difference and wish to use REAL welding cable
(go buy new stuff from a welder's supply), I don't perceive any
great sins happening here.
>Switching circuits here, I need a bit of guidance. Auto engines with auto
>type ignition systems rely on external power so the design for such a plane
>must include a separate, uninterruptible power supply that will function
>right through an alternator failure. I would like to talk to people who
>are flying with automotive style ignition systems to hear how they've dealt
>with this. I am not on the RV net, nor any other systems.
Every airplane has an un-interruptable source of power . . . called a
battery. This pre-supposes that the battery is maintained well. We
tend to treat batteries pretty badly in airplanes . . . run 'em until
they refuse to crank an engine any more. By that time, their usefulness
as a backup power source has been gone for months. Run
periodic capacity checks on a battery, and replace it at 50% of
capacity (or some higher number you choose). If you don't run
capacity checks, then put a new battery in every two years. For
airplanes with total dependence on electrical power, we suggest
two half-sized batteries with alternator-out loads distributed between
the two batteries depending on system needs. In this case, we suggest
replacing one battery every year. This way, you always have one battery
less than 1 year old, no battery is more than 2 years old.
If you can go "total electric panel" there are options for replacing
the vacuum pump with a 20 amp aux alternator. This permits total
redundancy of power generation and storage for very little weight
penalty compared to classic alternator/battery/vacuum pump
installations.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBrowne714(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
The Franklin engine that I had on my Stinson did not have a pad for a
vaccum pump, So my vaccum instruments were venturi driven. Does the new
engine have provisions for a vaccum pump?>>
Ray,
Sorry about the late answer, but I hav been off the RV-List (pesky job, don't
'ya know. The answer is yes, absolutely, the engine has provisions for a
vacuum pump.
Chris Browne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBrowne714(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
> Yes, Pat is the sole importer of the engine so Atlas is the only
> source of new parts. Pat has a large shop with new engines in stock
> and he does have the commonly used parts such as pistons, rings, seals
> and gaskets. The piston walls are very hard, so they do not require
> boring for a TOH, just honing. New cylinders are $1000 a piece.
> Also, come TBO, the total cost of the replacement parts exceeds the
> price of a new engine, so you simply buy a new engine minus the
> accessories.
A monopoly has its advantages.
When I checked out this engine a year or so ago, the literature said the
cylinders have field replacable sleeves that cost $60 each.
Bob Reiff>>
Bob,
Pat Goodman confirms that new cylinder sleeves are $65 a piece, uninstalled.
The information you had is correct.
Chris Browne
CBrowne714(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-4 Seat Cushions, $95! |
Need space, selling a nice complete set of RV-4 seat cushions. Can't tell
from new, dark hunter-green herculon. Very comfortable. Would make nice seats
if the color fits into your color-scheme, or at this price would make
excellent temporary seats to use until you can afford to put in those $1,000
seats you really want! $95.00
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antennae for RV6A???? |
Flying wire is somewhat streamlined. has anyone had any experience with an
antennae made with flying wire?
Gene Francis, I hope I run out of excuses to not work on the cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | To balance or not to balance |
I'm working on my Elev counter Balance. The Elev with the electric servo
is actually heavier then the lead weight counter balance. The other Elev
will need some holes drilled in the lead to attain a balance. If I clamp
the two elevators together as they are I could just drill out a few small
holes to counter balance. But the result would be one Elevator heavier
then the other. Any words of wisdom.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer Questions |
<< The only primers I could find in a spray can was Tempo brand Zinc Rich
Primer for Cold Galvanizing and Sherwin Williams brand 988 Self Etching
Primer are either of these acceptable for priming my RV8???
Chris ,
Save yourself some shoe leather and tire rubber. Look into the Aircraft
Spruce catalog.
Gene
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Gerges <dan.gerges(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lexaire paint gun |
Off list I wrote BJ Nash the following, and received
a fast reply, which I post for all to read. Hope you
don't mind, BJ - I'm sure others out there will find
the info useful.
Dan Gerges
Future RV-6A builder
BJ, enjoyed your comments on painting aircraft and
your recommendations.
What did you mean by shop air, and what does Lexair
sell?
Shop air is air right out of your compressor,
unconditioned, as many
HVLP spray guns require. Lexaire sells such a gun.
These low pressure guns are a joy to operate and
there is no
billowing clouds of overspray! This is how guys can
secretly paint
an airplane in a hanger without anyone knowing!
They are far superior to the best pressure gun
because of this and
even though is more expensive, is well worth it.
(IMHO)!
Thanks for your note!
BJ Nash
__________________________________________________________________
Sent by Yahoo! Mail. Get your free e-mail at http://mail.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <r.acker(at)thegrid.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: battery cable |
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <aeroelectric.com!nuckolls(at)roxy.llnl.gov>
> If you can go "total electric panel" there are options for replacing
> the vacuum pump with a 20 amp aux alternator. This permits total
> redundancy of power generation and storage for very little weight
> penalty compared to classic alternator/battery/vacuum pump
> installations.
Bob,
Great message. Please provide source info for the alternator vacuum
replacement option. At this time I plan no vacuum system and only two
electrical items I personally consider flight critical, a turn coordinator
and electronic ignition (those backed up via wing leveler and magneto).
I would like two independent sources of power going to each. I already
have the large "stock" battery box mounted, would one put two smaller
batteries equally loaded here and fed by two alternators, or the "regular"
battery as a main and a smaller aux "backup" battery elsewhere?
If the second alternator is cost prohibitive, how about one alternator
feeding two batteries (I have the same questions regarding battery loading
and configuration)?
Regards,
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-4 Seat Cushions-SOLD |
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan) |
I have to build another fuel tank for a RV-6. I have rejected the first
one. Any ideas on how to locate the already drilled holes for the #8
screws? I have ordered new skin,baffle & ribs.
Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
| Subject: | Light Weight Wiring Conduit |
United States Plastics, 1-800-537-9724 sells thin walled plastic tubing
perfect for wire chases in wings or fuselage. This tubing is much lighter
weight than the typical thin wall PVC tubing available at hardware stores.
The tubing is made from Tenite butyrate, is clear, and in the diameters of
interest is available with wall thicknesses of only 1/16" or 1/32". Their
stock no. 42122, for example, is 7/16" by 1/2", and is only $.23 per foot.
I have it through the wings, and will put one under the floor prior to
closing.
Alex Peterson
6A Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Primer Questions |
Marhyde is a brand that I and I believe several other listers use and it is
generally available at local automotive paint stores. The Sherwin-Williams
that you mention is a recently discussed addition to available spray can
primers that might be suitable to use. I don't think that cold galvanizing is
appropriate for aluminum.
Les Williams/RV-6Q/Tacoma WA
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Chris Edwards
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 6:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Primer Questions
The only primers I could find in a spray can was Tempo brand Zinc Rich
Primer for Cold Galvanizing and Sherwin Williams brand 988 Self Etching
Primer are either of these acceptable for priming my RV8???
Chris Edwards
RV-8 #80231
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Frank Justice Instructions |
How or where do you find these instructions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Balance |
I'm working on my Elev counter Balance. The Elev with the electric servo
is actually heavier then the lead weight counter balance. The other Elev
will need some holes drilled in the lead to attain a balance. If I clamp
the two elevators together as they are I could just drill out a few small
holes to counter balance. But the result would be one Elevator heavier
then the other. Any words of wisdom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)roxanne.llnl.gov (Matt G. Dralle 510-422-4896) |
Test.
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle
Internet LAN/WAN Communications Specialist
Open LabNet | Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory
7000 East Ave | PO Box 808 | L-267 | Livermore | California | 94550
510-422-4896 - Voice | 510-422-2425 - FAX | dralle(at)llnl.gov - Email
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | WANT TO BUY RV-8 KIT |
Am looking to buy a started or unstarted RV-8 tail-kit, wing-kit, or fuse
kit. Am located in the Northwest. Contact; MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Thanks to Curtis and Mike |
This is a public thanks to listers Curtis Hinkley and Mike Chaney
(RV-8 builders) and Dan Potter who showed up at my new house in
Virginia last Sunday morning to help unload my RV-6. Not only did
they help unload the wings, fuselage, engine, and control surfaces,
but they also helped unload a ton of household goods and move a few
heavy appliances.
Thanks, guys. It would have been almost impossible to get the job
done without you. A special thanks to Curtis who volunteered his
help and rounded up the crew without having even met me (this list is
a great thing!!!).
Tim Lewis
No longer from San Antonio, organizing new shop, engine mounting
soon, I hope.
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
Springfield VA
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com> |
I'm working on my Elev counter Balance. The Elev with the electric servo
is actually heavier then the lead weight counter balance. The other Elev
will need some holes drilled in the lead to attain a balance. If I clamp
the two elevators together as they are I could just drill out a few small
holes to counter balance. But the result would be one Elevator heavier
then the other. Any words of wisdom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank assembly |
I have fitted and drilled all the skins and am now fitting the tank skins.
Trouble is, I have to fit and match alot of surfaces, file a little, fit up
again, etc. You know the drill.
Next tank I am putting on after leading edge and then fitting the skins
against it.
Question. Can I just drill the tank to the tank ribs and then simply slide
the baffle back and forth as I fit up the tank and file, etc.? What will I
screw up if I do it this way?
Jon Scholl
RV6
bcg007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBrowne714(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Results of my Franklin Engine Visit |
---------------------
Subj: Re: RV-List: Results of my Franklin Engine Visit
Date: 97-11-07 10:33:26 EST
From: CBrowne714
The Franklin engine that I had on my Stinson did not have a pad for a
vaccum pump, So my vaccum instruments were venturi driven. Does the new
engine have provisions for a vaccum pump?>>
Ray,
Sorry about the late answer, but I hav been off the RV-List (pesky job, don't
'ya know. The answer is yes, absolutely, the engine has provisions for a
vacuum pump.
Chris Browne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Aternator/Voltage Reg Troubleshooting |
Started engine today for first time. checked alternator output voltage
on RMI monitor only to find that alternator circuit was not
functioning. Checked wiring - all ok.
With engine off I energized the alternator field circuit and could apply
12 volts to the voltage regulator (red wire) but had no voltage coming
out of the regulator (green wire). The green wire ends up at the F
terminal on the alternator.
One other curious item, with the system buss off and the alternator
field breaker open I can read 0 ohms between the airframe and the green
wire.
I am using Vans adjustable voltage regulator, it has a small trimpot on
the back side which I have not messed with.
Can someone tell my why my alternator is not charging
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling table |
At the risk of re-inventing the wheel, here is a contraption I have
just cobbled together in my shop, a dimpling table. After recently
dimpling the skins for the HS, I decided there had to be a better way.
You can check it out including photos at my "Getting Ready to Build"
page:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/ready.html
My apologies in advance to those who are already using a similar
arrangement.
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveler.com
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenn(at)chocolatetruffles.com> |
Hi!
RE: Steward Warner Fuel Senders
I am ready to install the fuel senders into my QB-6. I bent the wires
as shown on the drawing supplied with the senders. The float will rest
on the angle at the bottom of the tank. Is this correct? I can easily
sanp out the floats and position them aft of the angle.
Also, is it normal practice to use cork gaskets (as supplied with the
kit) on a fuel tank? I just would hate for them to break up and clog up
the fuel system.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WANT TO BUY RV-8 KIT |
aol.com!MAlexan533(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Am looking to buy a started or unstarted RV-8 tail-kit, wing-kit, or fuse
> kit. Am located in the Northwest. Contact; MAlexan533(at)aol.com
It's just a rumor, but I hear Van's Aircraft has a few for sale... :)
--DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emcole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Does anyone know the reason for a Lycoming IO-360 engine having the prop
flange bushings being rotated 120 degrees clockwise on a -a3b6d?
This is a counterweighted engine.
Thanks,
Ed Cole
RV6A #24430 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks to Curtis and Mike |
> This is a public thanks to listers Curtis Hinkley and Mike Chaney
> (RV-8 builders) and Dan Potter who showed up at my new house in
> Virginia last Sunday morning to help unload my RV-6. Not only did
> they help unload the wings, fuselage, engine, and control surfaces,
> but they also helped unload a ton of household goods and move a few
> heavy appliances.
whoa, somebody owes some free rides already :=)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV Lost Pwr in T/O, pilot ok, Questions |
I keep reading with interest these threads about vapor locks, fire sleeves,
and "Jim Cone's" type vapor return lines. I also failed to read any thing
about the below incident.
I was told that apparently a month or two ago in Dansville NY ? (It's not
the base for that plane, so it was visiting and how long sitting, heat
soaking up?). A RV4, 180 hp (was "0" SMOH, TT to date prior incident??),
Wood F/P, and just completed this summer, did loose power in take off.
Pilot did 180 back towards airport. Accomplished pilot and repeat RV
builder too.
Plane didn't quite make it or stalled it, low to ground at very end, or
close? It did hit hard enough to break off gear and engine from mount or
firewall. Luckly the only occupant, pilot was not seriuosly injured.
Uncertian if electric booster was on or not.
Investigation found fuel in tanks and to mechanical fuel pump. I believe a
vapor lock is being blamed as culprit.
So I continue to read and re-read each post on this stuff, I've resolved at
a minimum I'll do a "Jim Cone type, with restriction orfice, vapor return
line".
I've purchased the Andair fuel selector (@$180) and Gascolator (@$140).
Pricey (See Avery) but I think worth it. Re: Gascollator (its production #
is 32, not many out nor in catalog yet, saw at OSH97 and fell in love with
it) it is billet type machined aluminum, hope fully better suited for heated
enviroment? Any help pro or con on why I shold feel that way? Anyways I'll
shroud and blast tube the firewall mounted gas collator too.
Questions: (on or off list is fine with me)
1) Any one know any more about the above incident?
2) What about that Jet Coating type stuff on exhaust does it effectively
scavange heat out better? It sounds like a good idea. I read on previous
posts on how it is cool to touch shortly after shut down. Address/contact
for this service and @price please?.
3) Any body familiar with "Heat pipes or thermal pins" I use them in
injection tools, grasp one end lightly, hit other with a lighter, in a
second ouch!!! Follow me on this one, couldn't some one come up with a
flexible length of a "thermal pin" that you'd mount, bond parrallel to fuel
line (cross section like Double barrell shot gun, or wrap like a spring
aroung it) then fire sleeve heat wrap. Just having one over whole length
would equalize the whole line temperature? Not good enough, well drop one of
the ends down through Van's air box and with a coulple of fins on it as a
heat sink the air flow even at idle sucking into intake keeping engine
running would cool? No moving parts, and helpful in slow moving long taxi
lines at low GPM fuel flows? HHHMMMM.... what do you think, pros/cons,
technology in thermal pins? Limits?
4) Should we be mounting a cheapy monitor device, like a remote electronic
thermometer with a thermocouple to fuel line area and monitoring its
temperature? At least through test period and do some slow speed long
taxi, short refuel stop/start hops to long taxi tests. This to remove doubt
there? Thoughts?
5) I read that upon onset of vapor lock and engine power off, (but I assume
prop turning) you could pump throttle to get line cleared. I thought
airplane carbs lacked accellator pumps?, and the Traumahawk I trained in when
you mashed the throttle forward to fast would stall? Irrgardless at that
point it sounds like it is worthy of attempting. Accelator pump on carbs?
Or what else am I missing?
Respectfully
David McManmon RV6 on to engine mount now Cicero NY, McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <donmack(at)allways.net> |
| Subject: | Hovan's Newsletter List |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BCED37.4E0584E0"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BCED37.4E0584E0
charset="iso-8859-1"
I used to maintain the RV Newsletter list on John Hovan's web site.
Since his site is no longer, I am going to put it on my web site. =
Unfortunately, I do not have the list of all the sites. Could anyone who =
knows of an RV newsletter please send me:
Newsletter Name
Publish interval
Editor
Address to subscribe
Thanks
Don Mack RV-6A priming fuse skins.
donmack(at)flash.net or donmack(at)allways.net=20
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BCED37.4E0584E0
charset="iso-8859-1"
I used to maintain the RV Newsletter =
list on=20
John Hovan's web site.
Since his site is no longer, I am going to put it on =
my web=20
site. Unfortunately, I do not have the list of all the sites. Could =
anyone who=20
knows of an RV newsletter please send me:
Newsletter =
Name
Publish interval
Editor
Address to subscribe
Thanks
Don Mack RV-6A priming fuse =
skins.
donmack(at)flash.net or donmack(at)allways.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack<=
/FONT>
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BCED37.4E0584E0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | PRIMER QUESTIONS |
I HAVE BEEN USING "TEMPO BRAND ZINC CHROMATE AVIATION PRIMER" COMES IN
SPRAY CANS GREEN OR YELLOW MEETS FED SPECS TTP-1757A, MIL-P-6889A AND
TYPE 1 MIL-P-8585A. CAN BE PURCHASED FROM CHIEF AIRCRAFT 1-800-447-3408
OR MANY OTHER MAIL ORDER SUPPLIERS.
WAYNE BONESTEEL
WAYNEB(at)OAKWEB.COM
RV-4 FINISHING WINGS
>
> The only primers I could find in a spray can was Tempo brand Zinc Rich
> Primer for Cold Galvanizing and Sherwin Williams brand 988 Self Etching
> Primer are either of these acceptable for priming my RV8???
>
> Chris Edwards
> RV-8 #80231
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KOZINSKI GARY <kozinski(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank Blind Holes |
Don Jordan Wrote: Any ideas on how to locate the already drilled holes
for the #8 screws?
Don: They sell a tool to align a blind hole for drilling a new one. I
don't know the exact name of it (Hole Duplicator?) but it looks like a
flat tweezer about 1/2 wide and 10" long. At the end is a dimple that
fit into the existing hole and on top of it is a bushing with the drill
size hole in it that you send the drill through. The tool comes in
various sizes (#30, #40, etc.). You place the undrilled sheet between
the two end pieces of the duplicaotr. They sell for around $15. I got
mind at the fly market. I'd assumn any tool supplier would have them.
Gary RV-6 20038 ... Finishing before 2000!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)atheria.europa.com> |
>>This may sound stupid, but, what is the definition of a heavy wing? When I
>>let go of the stick the right wing wants to drop. So it's heavy, simple.
>>But when I fly level the right aileron is higher than the wingtip, so it's
>>pushing down, so the left wing is heavy, simple, right? If I fly with the
>>ailerons matching the wingtips it rolls left. Just pinch the high wing
>>trailing edge to fix it they say. OK. Which one?
>
>Kevin, The heavy wing is the one that wants to drop when you let go of the
stick.
>
>The problem with your aileron and wingtip is the wingtip was not mounted
properly (I think). You need to get the airfoil templates out and clamp it
over the aileron. This should be the neutral position for flight. Then
align the trailing edge of the wingtip with the aileron by slicing the tip
top from the tip bottom and glassing them back together when aligned with
the aileron.
>
>Once you have this completed, then you can try to balance the wings.
>
>Balancing the wings should be done in the following sequence:
>
>1. Remove the gear leg fairings, as they may be the cause of yaw.
>2. Trim the yaw out by using rudder trim so the ball is in the center when
indicating 150mph or higher.
>3. Squeeze the trailing edge of the aileron on the light wing (the one that
goes up!) until this becomes the heavy wing. Then remove some of the
"squeeze' by tapping on the trailing edge of the aileron with your fist
(lightly). Initially, there will be no change on the light wing when
squeezing, then all of a sudden it will swing over, so take it in steps.
It may take 5 to 10 "squeezes" until you hit the mark.
>
>Bill
>
Bill
RV-4-180 flying. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator balancing |
I balanced mine indivdually. Can't give you a scientific reason why it
would have to be done that way except for less force moments generated i.e
the counterbalance is closer to the mass it is counterbalancing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 elevator bellcrank bushing |
g'day mates!
The brass bushing that goes through the aileron bellcrank pivot simply
will NOT allow the AN4-32 bolt to fit! Did anyone else experience this?
It's not merely a tight fit..but won't go in whatsoever. Yes, I deburred
the ends and can only get the bolt in maybe 1/16 inch. Not good.
Brian Denk
RV-8 #379
Workin on the wings
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)atheria.europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build without the tail? |
>
>
>
>> The construction of the QB is excellent! I understand that the people in
>the
>> Philippines who build them used to work on F16s before Mt Pinatubo blew
>up
>> and they closed the AF Base there.
>
>that's odd, it's my understanding that the Philippine craftsmanship was bad
>so the whole thing got moved to Malaysia where they are now turning out
>very nice QB's. kevin 6A, made in OR.
Kevin, Shame on you. There has never been a problem with the Philippine
craftsmanship. Van's got the Malaysian operation started in anticipation of
a demand that was greater than the Philippine operation could handle. To
date, 98% of the quickbuilds sold have been from the Philippines, and we
are very pleased with their quality. Bill
Bill
RV-4-180 flying. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris McGough <cmcgough(at)eck.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Left elevator |
Hi Ladys & Gents,
I am new to the list, and am building a 6a. My problem
is after completing the trailing edge bend on the L/elevator I have a
slight bow where the E606 is. So, when I put a ruler from leading edge
to trailing edge, there is a slight bulge where the E606 is under the
skin. Is this normal, or a problem? I have not drilled the E 606, to
the skin yet. Any ideas???
Chris (Broadford, AUSTRALIA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Attaching silicon baffle material |
I elected to us the red silocon baffle material instead of the black fabric
stuff that comes with Van's baffle kit. The special 'large-head' pop
rivets furnished in the kit are not long enough to be used with the silicon
material, and I thought I would pass along to the list what I did.
My local Ace Hardware store sells aluminum pop rivets and Backing Plates.
These backing plates are essentially an aluminum washer 3/16" in diameter
with a 1/8" hole. Simply slip the backing plate onto the rivet under the
head before installing it. Presto. You now have a pop rivet with a large
head.
And on another subject: I've noticed that the 360 scoop is wider than the
320 scoop. This means the opening at the back of the scoop for exhausting
the cowling's low-pressure air is larger for the 360 scoop than it is for a
320. From time-to-time I've heard that 360-powered RV-6s have fewer
problems with cooling. I wonder if this could be part of the reason why?
Best REgards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Attaching scoop to cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | OOPS! should have said AILERON bellcrank |
Sorry folks, the last message should have been titled AILERON bellcrank.
Still can't get any blood up into my brain after my aerobatic lessons
last week. *laughing*.
Brian Denk
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Tim Lewis - wing root fairing |
Tim,
Thanks for the note. I also saw the note in the archives and did it about
that way. Worked very nicely. I had to trim quite a bit. My bigger
problem was how to drill the holes to attach the fairing to the wing.
Drilled out every other rivet in the wing skin. Then drilled new holes in
the tank to attach it. Left a gap of about 1/8th to 3/16th of an inch
between the edge of the skin and the fuselage. Worked real well.
Next step is to mount the selector valve and fuel lines.
Hope you're getting settled in Va. Stay in touch.
Bob
---
"The opinions expressed herein are solely the author's
and are not necessarily the opinions of USAA."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wmills(at)southwind.net (William H. Mills) |
| Subject: | For Sale - RV-4 Wing and Tail Kit |
Listers,
This was placed in our local EAA Chapter (88) Newsletter; don't know any
more about this than what it says, or if it's still available:
FOR SALE: RV-4 Wing and Tail Kit.
Tail is complete. Pre-punched wings, just started with spars riveted. Mac
servos. All epoxy primed with excellent workmanship.
Lycoming O-320, wide deck, first run, with accessories, lightweight
starter, etc.
Contact:
Clint Andrews
Rt 1 Box 285
Carthage, MO 64836
Phone/Fax (417) 246-5819
Thought some of you might find it of interest.
Bill Mills
Wichita
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)GEON.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 elevator bellcrank bushing |
Brian,
Mine as well as another local RV-8 builder had the interference you are
mentioning. The only logical reason is that each assembly can be custon
fit to very close tolerances. Something not easily achievable in a mass
production process (at a reasonable cost). Be aware of centerline
offset in the welded steel bellcrank. I used a home-made hone to polish
and true the I.D. of this steel component. With about 30-minutes of
work, you can have a very good fitting assembly with no slop.
One thing I learned the hard way building my wings - don't use the rear
spar alone to align the back of the ribs to the rear spar.
Specifically, don't rely on the one offset side of the spar (top) to
align the rib. Duh... I did and I have a small offset causing a small
top skin misalignment. It isn't too bad, but it's the first thing I see
every time I look at the left wing! Use the same technique you used
with the empennage where two strips of wood and four c-clamps aligned
the rib to the spar - much nicer results using this with the right wing.
I can't blame Van, he said to use this technique in the instructions.
I just received my RV-8 (#313) fuselage! You wouldn't (or maybe you
would) believe the quality of the weldments! Very nice...
Bryan Jones
JONESB(at)GEON.COM
>
> g'day mates!
>
> The brass bushing that goes through the aileron bellcrank pivot simply
>
> will NOT allow the AN4-32 bolt to fit! Did anyone else experience
> this?
> It's not merely a tight fit..but won't go in whatsoever. Yes, I
> deburred
> the ends and can only get the bolt in maybe 1/16 inch. Not good.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV-8 #379
> Workin on the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Cheap - FUN flying while your building |
OK folks, I know this is not exactly RV related but at least its about
airplanes. One of the things that kept me going while I built my RV-6A
was the fact that I had something else to fly during construction.
This message is to place my Phantom UL for sale.
Now I know that a lot of people laugh at ultralights, (particularly
people have have never flown one), but THIS IS ONE FUN AIRPLANE,
especially for punching holes in the sky, chasing cows and more or less
anything else other than getting to far away place quickly. Why am I
selling it? No, its not because I have a "better" plane now. It is
because I need to trade it for a different model with folding wings so I
can squeeze it in my hangar next to the RV. I will ALWAYS have an
ultralight to fly. For what it does well, nothing does it better.
Ultralights are a kick in the pants. The modern airframes are extremely
strong and well built. The engines are reliable and the performance is
much improved over older models. My Phantom flies from 25 mph to 85 mph.
It will climb about 1200 fpm at sea level and can be safely operated
from a 300' grass field. It is as aerobatic as an RV and with few
exceptions will do anything you can do. I've even seen one outside loop.
I've had mine up to 15,000' and it's still nimble enough to play around.
So here's my offer:
FOR SALE
Phantom ultralight type aircraft. It's too fast to be considered a true
FAR 103 type ultralight. (certificated as N-636AG)
Rotax 503DC - CDI - free air cooled, 2.58:1 Rotax B gear box.
40 hours STOH. 3 blade adjustable 62" carbon fiber Sport Prop
flaps, brakes, chrome molly gear, extended windshield, floor on pod,
like new blue, light blue, and white split sails with windows,
10.5 gallon tank with sump and drain, BRS-5
panel: airspeed, altimeter, dual cht, dual egt, digital tach, hour meter
primer, 720 channel VHF radio with booster and remote mounted antenna
Always hangared and currently located in Granby, Colorado (100 miles
north west of Denver)
The price is $9500. ($8500 without the BRS)
Andy Gold
PO Box 270
Tabernash, CO 80478
970-887-2207 days
970 887-2194 evenings
(Thanks for your patience. I won't post this on the RV list again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
CHRIS
I AM BUILDING A -4 BUT I THINK SIMILAR PARTS. LOOK TO BE THE TRIM TAB
SPAR. CHECK THE DETAIL DRAWING FOR OVER ALL DIM. AND CHECK THE ANGLE OF
THE FLANGES, MINE CALC. OUT TO 94 DEGREES. YOU HAVE TO CHECK ALL ANGLES
TO BE SURE THE SKIN WILL LAY FLAT. THIS MAY BE ENOUGH TO CAUSE A LUMP IN
THE THIN SKINS.
WAYNE NEAR TO CLOSING WINGS
Chris McGough wrote:
>
>
> Hi Ladys & Gents,
> the skin yet. Any ideas???
>
> Chris (Broadford, AUSTRALIA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PRIMER QUESTIONS |
<< I HAVE BEEN USING "TEMPO BRAND ZINC CHROMATE AVIATION PRIMER" >>
EEGADS- primer again!!! Look out!
I know of two ways to check the primer being used:
Laquer thinner- if LT takes the stuff off, so will fuel- bad, bad, bad.
Imagine this getting at the primer from behind, as in the case of a fuel
spill inside the fuse (likely when "leak-testing" the system before flying.
Benair, dunnatt (Vari-Prime). I use Mil-Spec epoxy now...
Tape: put a pc of masking tape on the stuff (after a reasonable cure time),
leave it on overnite, and pull it off the next day. Does your primer stick??
This is not definative, but Ol' Rust-o-leum "Clean metal primer" passes both
tests after a fair cure time. Their red oxide brush-on stuff is REALLY
sticky. T. Bingelis agrees with this outlook- quick, easy, and thorough. He
told me that he wonders why more folks don't use this stuff (he's a local). I
don't know if a topcoat is necessary over this stuff, but I think it's a v
good idea.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Does anyone have a new web address for Greg Travis? The old address I
have no longer works.
Thanks,
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Barbara Osgood <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Stop block |
I am about to attempt the installation of the aileron stop block on my
6A left wing. Any tips
about this?? Cant' find much in the way of documentation anywhere.
Thanks
--
Rick and Barbara Osgood
RandBOsgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Blind Holes |
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan) |
Thanks Gary
I think I saw them at Bob Avery's
Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <r.acker(at)thegrid.net> |
Greg Travis home page @ http://www.prime-mover.org/
Rob Acker (RV-6Q)
----------
> From: Edward Cole <ix.netcom.com!emcole(at)matronics.com>
> Does anyone have a new web address for Greg Travis? The old address I
> have no longer works.
> Thanks,
> Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
| Subject: | Light Weight Wiring Conduit |
United States Plastics, 1-800-537-9724 sells thin walled plastic tubing
perfect for wire chases in wings or fuselage. This tubing is much lighter
weight than the typical thin wall PVC tubing available at hardware stores.
The tubing is made from Tenite butyrate, is clear, and in the diameters of
interest is available with wall thicknesses of only 1/16" or 1/32". Their
stock no. 42122, for example, is 7/16" by 1/2", and is only $.23 per foot.
I have it through the wings, and will put one under the floor prior to
closing.
Alex Peterson
6A Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 elevator bellcrank bushing |
Brian,
The bushing must be reamed with a reamer or honed to a close tolerance.
I
bought a reamer, worked real good.
Good Luck
>
>g'day mates!
>
>The brass bushing that goes through the aileron bellcrank pivot simply
>will NOT allow the AN4-32 bolt to fit! Did anyone else experience this?
>It's not merely a tight fit..but won't go in whatsoever. Yes, I deburred
>the ends and can only get the bolt in maybe 1/16 inch. Not good.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV-8 #379
>Workin on the wings
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com> |
| Subject: | naive avionics question |
charset="iso-8859-1"
I'm thinking about making a fully functional (IFR), yet minimal, instrument
panel.
My main question is whether or not it is prudent (and/or legal) to use an
RMI microEncoder for Altimeter, Air Speed, and Vertical Air speed, (danger
of losing three functions with a single failure), if I have a GPS that
provides backup for all three functions. IOW, with failure of the
microEncoder, I can get approximate altitude, vertical speed, and airspeed
from the GPS. (Yes, I know GPS is not as precise in altitude. Yes, I know
GPS would give true speed, not airspeed, ignoring winds aloft.)
Would this be prudent?
Would this be legal?
I'm still a student pilot, so I may be asking a dumb question. But it's fun
to think about, even if it will be a few years before I'm ready to do the
panel.
Second main question is whether I can use a single NAV/COM with glideslope,
while using GPS for all actual navigation other than instrument landings.
(The RMI web site posts the following warning: "NOTICE: The microENCODER
MUST NOT be used to replace more than one primary instrument in aircraft
certified for IFR flight. It is not prudent to chance a potential loss of
three important flight parameters during instrument conditions due to the
failure of one unit.")
Summary:
Flight Instrument Group
=================
Airspeed - mE (approximate backup GPS)
Attitude - electric gyroscope unit
Altitude - mE (approximate backup GPS)
Turn Coord - autopilot model
Heading Indicator - electric gyroscope unit
Vertical Speed - mE (approximate backup GPS)
Engine Instrument Group
=================
Ammeter - mM
Suction Gauge - n/a, electrical gyros
Oil Temp - mM
Oil Pressure - mM
Fuel Quantity - ???
Digital Clock - mM, mE, GPS
Tach - mM
Low Voltage Warn - mM
Low Vacuum Warn - n/a
EGT - mM
Carb Temp - mM
Flight Hour - mM
Engine Hour - mM
Other Avionics
=================
NAV/COM/GS - Narco Mark 12D+ ?
Course Deviation and GS - Narco ?
ELT - Narco ELT 910 ?
Transponder - Narco AT 150 + mE ?
Marker Beacon Indicator -
Audio Control Panel
Headset Jacks
Autopilot
Other Other
=================
Magnetic Compas - Yes
Thanks for any comments or suggestions.
--
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build without the tail? |
> Kevin, Shame on you. There has never been a problem with the Philippine
> craftsmanship. Van's got the Malaysian operation started in anticipation
of
> a demand that was greater than the Philippine operation could handle. To
> date, 98% of the quickbuilds sold have been from the Philippines, and
we
> are very pleased with their quality. Bill
I believe that I was told this by one of your employees. You're right
though, I shouldn't spurt out things like that. That guy though gets to
me. He is such a know-it-all, and he is hasn't even started yet I believe.
I've been hard selling your product though. We've had a number of
visitors at the hanger. I would guess that you guys are aware of how
anyone in aviation is either working on or has a friend that is working on
an RV. I flew into Dietz airpark the other day. This guy comes out, I
expected, to chew me out for landing without permission, but no, he wanted
to show me his RV8 that he started in Feb and now awaits the finish kit.
I would like to hear something about the logo ideas I sent to Van. With
no input I simply chose something and started the reiterative design
process. I am offering free design work here guys. Free is a very good
price!
Being self-employed and a bit tired of carpentry all the time I have been
playing with the idea of offering two week courses where the "campers"
could complete one portion of their kits. What do you think of this? It
would be fun to tap into the enthusiasm and help others get these planes in
the air. The potential group seems to be growing to a serious number. My
wife has mentioned offering classes and sight-seeing to non-building
spouses.
kevin 6A 30hrs!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flames! RV6 vs Mustang II |
>
>>Tony Cochran
>>T-18 driver RV-6 want to be ( or maybe I will just fly the T-18 and
>>keep
>>running over all those RV's :))
>
>See ya for lunch at GXY this Saturday... Maybe we'll get to see Walsh's
>new paint job.
>
>Rod Woodard
>Loveland, Colorado
>RV-8, #80033
>
>
>
> |Rob--- for christs sake, don't shoot the poor basterd bown while he's
>completeing his landing roll!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank assembly |
I sent a message a couple of days ago, but not sure it made it--never saw it
on the list. So here it is again.
Got the left wing skins all fitted with cleco's and now fitting the tank.
Wrong assembly sequence--too many sides to sorry about. I need to file the
tank skins a bit to get a perfect fit. Question: can I just drill the skin
to the baffle assembly ribs and then use the baffle as a carriage to slide
the tank against the leading edge to check for fit? It sure would be easier
than unstrapping the tank skin, filing, restrapping, etc. What would I be
screwing up if I did it this way?
Incedentally, I think the right sequence should be: top skins, LE, tank,
bottom skins.
Jon
RV6 wings
bcg007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stop block |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
Rick,
I usually make the block (the only important thing about
the size is that it clears interfere with the aileron travel).
I then clamp it in the approx. location using a long reach cleco
clamp.
Then using a protractor level move the aileron to the full up
travel amount from the neutral reference (airfoil template and/or
wingtip) The clamp will usually slip enough to let the block move to the
correct postilion. Double check a couple of times after the first
positioning. The steel aileron bracket should contact the entire side
of the stop.
Then tilt the aileron down out of the way and trace around the
stop so you know if it moves while drilling.
Clamp more securely and drill for a couple of AN426 rivets.
Install the stop and recheck the travel.
Remember; there is only an up travel stop, the down travel stop is the
opposite aileron hitting the up travel stop.
Hope this helps
Scott Mc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an RV |
>
>
Would like to help. Try Prince George, British Columbia.
I know of a RV-6a, 180 hp ,( was for sale ).
Contact me if search is unfruitful. Ed F-XXG.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING LESSONS |
>
>
>
> FLYING LESSONS FROM THE GEESE
>
>
> Mr BJ Nash - thanks for spending the time to type in a lesson on life.
Much apprecieted!
Keep up the good work!!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 elevator bellcrank bushing |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
. I'm not sure whether the Manual mentions it, but you have to run a
reamer through the bushing to get a slip fit clearance on the AN4 bolt.
Scott Mc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stop block |
>I am about to attempt the installation of the aileron stop block on my
>6A left wing. Any tips
>about this?? Cant' find much in the way of documentation anywhere.
>Rick and Barbara Osgood
Rick,
The degrees for up and down travel are given in the manual. I made the
two blocks, and taped them into position with double sided tape and tried to
install them parallel so the aileron hinge made full contact with the stop.
I shifted them around until the correct travel was attained. I'd pilot
drilled two, #40 holes in the blocks and, when positioned correctly, drilled
them on with a #40 and then enlarged to #30.
Bob Skinner RV-6 385 hrs Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownTool(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Blind Holes |
<< (Hole Duplicator?) but it looks like a
flat tweezer about 1/2 wide and 10" long. At the end is a dimple that
fit into the existing hole and on top of it is a bushing with the drill
size hole in it that you send the drill through. The tool comes in
various sizes (#30, #40, etc.). You place the undrilled sheet between
the two end pieces of the duplicaotr. They sell for around $15. I got
mind at the fly market. I'd assumn any tool supplier would have them. >>
The tool you are talking about is called a "Strap Duplicator" or in some
parts of the country it is called a "Hole Finder" (they are the same exact
tool). They are available in the common rivet and screw hole sizes. We have
them available for $8.95 each and I am sure the other tool suppliers have
them in that price range also. I would be happy to send you a free catalog
with a picture and description.
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
Oklahoma City, OK
1-800-587-3883
BrownTool(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
I'm about to fit the F674 to the fuslage for my RV-6A tip up. I've looked
at the plans to see how the canopy cut out is to be made and found
that there is much room for error with the dimensions being spaced so
far apart. Right now, I'm planning on just running some straight lines
between the critical points and do the real cutting later. Of course, I'm
leaving a bit of extra skin per the manual and your notes on the
subject. How did you fellas draw your curved lines without using
French (?) curves, etc. I've just about had enough of buying tools for
this project and am hoping I can do it without buying more. It dawned
on me that I might be able to use the bottom edge of the canopy, once
it's trimmed a bit.
Please give answers off the list to keep down the traffic for others.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
sears(at)searnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation |
boundary="PART.BOUNDARY.0.6917.mrin84.mail.aol.com.879249304"
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.6917.mrin84.mail.aol.com.879249304
3rd Annual "gatoRVator" TCAP* Fly In
We had a great time last year and look forward to doubling the number of RV's
attending this year. For details on where,when, etc. please look at the
attached file or call Bernie at 561-466-6701. If there is any one out there
that is more than a couple of hours flying time away, we can round up some
rooms here on the airpark.
Tracy Crook is staying with us, but there are several other RV'ers here who
would be happy to accomodate you!
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.6917.mrin84.mail.aol.com.879249304
name="LETTER~1.TXT"
=0D
Last year we had 16 RV=92s attend. This year let=92s hit 1/10 the number=
of Oshkosh RV=92s, i.e. 28 or more! After a delicious breakfast consisti=
ng of : eggs and sausage, hash brown potato casserole, fresh cut premium =
citrus, homemade biscuits, orange juice, and coffee; Tracy Crook gave a v=
ery informative update on his rotary powered RV4. Tracy plans on being b=
ack for an update of his progress over the last year. =
=0D
The main program this year will be Sam James doing a 3 hr seminar on fibe=
rglass. Yes as much as we think FG is for building porti potties, we do h=
ave to deal with it while building an RV and this seminar will make it l=
ess painful.
=0D
We will start serving breakfast around 8:30 ish and continue serving late=
comers as long as the food holds out( which it always has in the past and=
it would take a massive crowd to overwhelm our ladies). We would apprec=
iate an RSVP letting us know your plans so that we can be prepared. Eithe=
r return mail (return address label included), call Bernie Kerr at 561-46=
6-6701, or Email Bernie ( kerrjb(at)aol.com ). Even if your plan is soft, we=
would rather get a wrong input than no input, so please take a moment to=
let us know.
=0D
Our 4000=92 grass strip is located at N 27 degrees 14=92 27=94 and W 80=
degrees 29=92 19=92. We are on the Miami sectional if anyone still read=
s maps these days.
=0D
We will have someone on 122.9 to give advice regarding surface conditions=
, active runway, and any known traffic. We will park all the RV=92s on th=
e south side of the runway where the activities are occurring and we will=
park spamcans etc. at the east end of the field. Ground transportation w=
ill bring you over to the south side.Once you clear the active, the groun=
d handlers will be on 122.95 to assist you to a parking space.
=0D
We look forward to having a real good time together. A word of warning is=
that please fly within regs when you are in our vicinity because we have=
a neighbor that thrives on getting you breaking a reg on video and turni=
ng you in to the FAA.
=0D
For the builders who drive in, we are located on highway #609. It is 5.3 =
miles N of #714 out of Stuart or 4 miles S of #709 out of Ft Pierce. Turn=
W off #609 on Skyking Drive to Grumman Way and turn right to the parking=
area. There are several RV=92s at various stages of construction on the =
field for you to see plus all of the airplanes that fly in.
=0D
* Treasure Coast Air Park
=
=93gatoRVators=94 Y=92all come to Breakfast =
=0D
--PART.BOUNDARY.0.6917.mrin84.mail.aol.com.879249304--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
>I read your message about bubbles causing operational problems in fuel
>injected Lyc engines. My partners and I have been fighting for months, low
>power setting rough running, stalling during taxi and occasional burps at
>even high power settings. Combinations of header tank and boost pump had
>little effect but pump off and header tank on worked best.
>
>Three factors in combination contributed to the problem, ALL fuel related.
>
> 1. Bendix (now Precision Airmotive) fuel servo was rebuilt because of sloppy
>shaft bearings & age. This improved the situation only a little
>
>2. Cleaning the injectors in gun cleaner per Lyc service bulletin. This
>helped a lot in that the engine would now idle but only with the fuel pump
>on.
>
>3. ReBuilding the Dukes fuel pump. This fixed the problem entirely. The
>fuel pump was determined to have a bad bearing and shaft seal that allowed
>air to enter the fuel system. This problem was aggravated by selection of
>wing (lowest) fuel when close to empty with the fuel pump off. Pump on would
>help but only after a min had past and the bubbles in the line went into the
>fuel servo
>
>Speaking to a mechanic, I was told that the injector system is freaked by
>even the smallest air bubbles at low speeds. What drew us to the fuel pump
>was that fuel would run out of the relief tube on the fuel pump when turned
>on with the engine off. Also fuel would run out of the plane if shut down
>with the header tank selected. I thought this was a normal condition
>necessitated by a priming the pump but Dukes says there should be zero
>leakage. The bubbles in our fuel were leaking in at the shaft seal with the
>engine fuel pump running and placing the fuel lines (and electric pump) in
>vacuum with wing tank selected.
>
>A tight fuel system is a must. There is no tolerance.
I thought this might be of use to someone. It was from Peter
Burnham of Seattle, WA.
Have a good one.
Denny RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Ok, I give up! WHEN is this event being held?????
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on second RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Problems |
In the early days of our auto engine development we found a leaking selector
valve, Tom Jones said it was quite common in the early days of brass plug
type valves. It is called a static leak ie no fuel leaks but would allow air
to the engine. This was in a Swift, with the upping of power and FI units it
was like a shot of air to the heart, the engines would quit, usually on take
off before a relight could occur usually with very bad results. In our case
this was solved by relapping the valve and installing the boost pump before
the valve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Project for Sale |
A good friend of mine has decided to sell his RV-4 project. His work is
first class.
Project includes:
Empenage - 95% complete
Wing - Spars complete, Left wing in jig.
All parts internally primed. Wing includes one piece .032 top
skins. Fuel
gauges/senders included. Asking $5500.00
Call Jim Longley, NW Chicago area (815) 455-7424
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hamilton McClymont <hammcc(at)istar.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation |
Hi:
Always on the lookout for an excuse to visit my brother (he lives in
Stuart), I read of the 3rd Annual "gatoRVator" TCAP* Fly In with
interest. When is it?
--
Hammy [CYVR]
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/2688/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Dallas/Ft.Worth Seminar |
George and Becky Orndorff have graciously offered to co-host
a weekend seminar on aircraft electrical systems in their
hangar next February. Persons interested in attending this
event may get details of the presentation and register thier
interest at <http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html>
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation |
> Always on the lookout for an excuse to visit my brother (he lives in
> Stuart), I read of the 3rd Annual "gatoRVator" TCAP* Fly In with
> interest. When is it?
> --
> Hammy [CYVR]
> http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/2688/
It'll be at Treasure Coast Airpark (aka FL37) on December 6th. TCAP
is to the East of the Northern tip of Lake Okeechobee, halfway to the
coast.
I got an empty message from Bernie via the RV-List. I've asked him to
re-send it. That message should have better directions, times,
frequencies, etc.
Bernie and I are building an RV6A. Also at TCAP, Tom Benton finished
his RV6A last year. This will be our 3rd annual RV fly-in. This
year, we hope to have at least more than twenty or so RVs stop by.
'Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F674 cut out |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Jim
With all due respect ,I thought this forum was for the purpose of
disseminating info for those of us who had not reached the 'difficult
bits'yet,among other things.I for one appreciate answers to build
problems posted ON the list.My thanks to you guys who share your answers
to problems encountered.
Derek Reed RV6A [lots of problems ahead!]
>
>
> Please give answers off the list to keep down the traffic for others.
>
> Jim Sears
> RV-6A #22220
> sears(at)searnet.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | LIVE IN RV HEAVEN! |
Owner of RV-4 must sell new home and hangar on the Independence, Oregon
Airpark. Many RV's here, outstanding close-knit airpark. Home is 3 years new,
approx. 1800 sq.ft., 4 bdrm, 21/2 ba, hangar is 44 x 48, fully finished. This
is a luxury home with all options. $269,000. If interested, please E-mail for
complete portfolio package. For sale by owner, no broker fees. First time
advertised.
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
MOE TEMPO IS ONE OF THE PRIMERS LISTED IN VANS CONSTRUCTION MANUAL
CHAPTER 5 "CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS AND PROCESSES". THERE ARE BETTER NEWER
PRIMERS BUT THIS PRIMER HAS BEEN USED SINCE WWII COMES IN A SPRAY CAN
AND REQUIRES SURFACES TO BE ONLY CLEAN AND DRY. I AM ONLY PRIMING
INTERIOR SURFACES THAT CONTACT OTHER SURFACES (RIBS TO SKIN ETC.) FOR
ALCLAD SURFACES CLEAN WITH SCOTCH BRITE PAD AND MEK, FOR NON ALCLAD
PARTS I CLEAN WITH ALUMIPREP 33 AND ALODINE 1201 THIS ETCHES THE BARE
ALUMINUM AND SEALS THE SURFACE FOR PRIMING, THEN PRIME WITH THE TEMPO.
WAYNE
RV-4 WINGS
Maurice Colontonio wrote:
> Do you have to use an etching material with this, or is it self etching?
Moe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
I've made the preliminary cut on the F674 skin for my -6A tip up.
When I fit it to the fuselage, I found that it didn't seem long enough
along the longerons. I had to pull it forward quite a bit to get it flush
with the front edge of the F631 cabin frame. So, I got out DWG#51
for a closer look.
DWG#51 shows a 1/4" gap between the F631A canopy frame and
the cabin frame's F631C support at the bottom of the cabin frame. If
I measured correctly, that means there's a 1/8" gap between the
F631A canopy frame and the F631 cabin frame because the front
edge of the F631C is about 1/8" back from the front of the cabin
frame. If the plan is incorrectly drawn, it could also mean that there is
1/4" between canopy frame and the cabin frame. I drew this
conclusion since I see no lines showing the front of the F631 unless
that line leading from the front edge of the F631C is actually the front
edge of the F631. ( A clarification would be nice here.) It also looks
like the canopy in the canopy frame overlaps the cabin frame a little
for sealing. Since the DWG#51 isn't real clear, I'm guessing a bit.
With all that said, where does the front edge of the finger on the
F674 skin fall? Is it flush to the front of the F631 cabin frame or flush
to the front edge of the F631C support angle at the bottom of the
cabin frame? Since I'd prefer a good fit here, I can give up a bit at
the rear edge of the F674. However, if it's really supposed to flush
up to the F631C instead of the F631 cabin frame, I can get most of
the lost length back! I'm depending on a correct answer on this one
since this is such a high visibility spot. My guess work isn't good
enough.
As usual, I really appreciate your help. You may want to send this
direct to keep down the RV-list traffic.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
sears(at)searnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching silicon baffle material |
I too, have used the red silicone.. I fastened it on with 10-32 stainless
truss head with a nilock nut. Use a washer on the slicone side. Works well
and easy to fix in the future.
hawkbud about to fly ( week from Saturday) RV-6 first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <airshows1(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation |
Where is it being held?
-----Original Message-----
From: Frederic w Stucklen <juno.com!wstucklen1(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 11, 1997 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation
>
>Ok, I give up! WHEN is this event being held?????
>
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> (Working on second RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
>wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GatoRVavator Fla. Flyin is Dec. 6 |
Sorry that the date did not come out on the first note. I tried to attach a
file to maybe keep it out of the archive, but is came through as part of the
basic mail without the title which had the date. For more info call: Bernie
Kerr at 561-466-6701 or email kerrjb(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com> |
Jim, I made a cardboard template of the layout and looked around the house/
yard for something that had a curve that somewhat matched. In my case, I used
the rim of a wheelbarrow as a starting point. Not very definitive, but you
can make it any shape you want, within reason.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
Listers,
I'm about to fit the F674 to the fuslage for my RV-6A tip up. I've looked
at the plans to see how the canopy cut out is to be made and found
that there is much room for error with the dimensions being spaced so
far apart. Right now, I'm planning on just running some straight lines
between the critical points and do the real cutting later. Of course, I'm
leaving a bit of extra skin per the manual and your notes on the
subject. How did you fellas draw your curved lines without using
French (?) curves, etc. I've just about had enough of buying tools for
this project and am hoping I can do it without buying more. It dawned
on me that I might be able to use the bottom edge of the canopy, once
it's trimmed a bit.
Please give answers off the list to keep down the traffic for others.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220
sears(at)searnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation |
where can I get the gatorRVato
hawkbud
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <airshows1(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation |
Where is airport near? When?
-----Original Message-----
From: aol.com!Kerrjb(at)matronics.com <aol.com!Kerrjb(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 11, 1997 8:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fla. RV Fly-in Invitation
>
>3rd Annual "gatoRVator" TCAP* Fly In
>
>We had a great time last year and look forward to doubling the number of
RV's
>attending this year. For details on where,when, etc. please look at the
>attached file or call Bernie at 561-466-6701. If there is any one out there
>that is more than a couple of hours flying time away, we can round up some
>rooms here on the airpark.
>Tracy Crook is staying with us, but there are several other RV'ers here who
>would be happy to accomodate you!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick E. Kelley" <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
Bill Benedict wrote:
>
> >Kevin, The heavy wing is the one that wants to drop when you let go of the
> stick.
I happened to be watching the construction videos this weekend (it was
too yucky out to do anything else) and ran across the trim section.
George mentions trimming the rudder first. This is good advice, because
the wing will tend to drop on the side that the plane yaws toward. Not
sure if that would cause the effect he was noting, but it kinda sounded
like crossed controls to me.
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ve7fp(at)jetstream.net (Ken Hoshowski) |
| Subject: | Installing baffling material |
Just a tip for those who have not yet installed the black baffling material
as supplied by Vans to seal that cowl. If you glue the material on and let
it set for a day before installing the pop rivits you will avoid the
bulging between rivits that you get if you simply pop rivit them on.
Ken Hoshowski, Editor Western Canada Rvator
(Soon to be retired I hope)
RV6 C-FKEH 160 HP-CS First flight Sept.8/93
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: F674 cut out |
Make sure you leave a good inch, as Van's plans advise.
I found that mine, the side skirts on canopy frame was almost perfectlay
straight across on the top edge of that F674 trim line at plus the 1 inch.
Had I trimmed it closer I'd be miffed. It would look terrible. I did use
slightly higher canopy side skin placement and did do overlapping canopy
skirts on the side skins on the frame, so the ones Van's sends were junked.
I found that you need to be flat for about 4 inched in the centerline, rear
most cut out position. Draw a centerline on the skin, going fore and aft.
Cut that same centerline down to the proposed 1" plus trim point. Then I
cut out side ways one way. Oh yeah, Drawing with sharpie, I free handed the
remaining arc intersecting Van's dimensions given.
Now you cut only one half away. You take your trimming and flip it over,
trace it on the otherside and presto the cut is symetrical. I did no further
trimming on my skin after that and it looks fine IMHO.
Further trimming? It's really up to how flush the plexi and skin rest
together, then how close you make your C/S screws are to skin edge and if you
can drill the mess so as to work out any small wow's. I did turn the edge
slightly with that round tool with the 2 draw rollers, made for overlapping
skin joints.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tail trailing edges |
I have spent the last couple of nights mounting the tail to my -6
fuselage and making sure it is level, etc. It has probably been at
least a year since I have closely inpected the tail components, and some
concerns have come to mind that I had long ago (about 3 years) when I
had built the tail components. I have noticed some slight oil-canning
when I apply pressure to the areas between the stiffeners. Does anyone
know if this oil-canning can cause flutter? If so, would injecting slow
expanding foam insulation give the trailing edges some apparently needed
stiffness? Also, I have noticed the elevators don't appear to be bent
at their trailing edges as far as they could be--I am thinking about
"braking" them some more with the home-made 2X6 brake. Will elevators
not "braked" enough cause wandering of the trailing edges in pitch
during flight? I am wondering if anyone has bent them down more after
flying the airplane and if this can improve pitch responsiveness. I
don't want to "brake" them too much for fear of not maintaining the
proper radius for strength purposes.
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Integrated Information Services, LLC
Carmel, IN
bob@iis-intellect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
<< it kinda sounded
like crossed controls to me. >>
Sounded like a cross trim situation to me too, Pat.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Slave to the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 S/No 4239
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail trailing edges |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
Bob,
It is important to have the proper shape on the trailing edges of
ALL control surfaces (ailerons also). An easy way to check is use a 12
in. steel ruler and lay it on edge along the cord line (from front to
back of the control surface). If the trailing edge is bent closed
properly the rule will contact the skin on its full length until it gets
to the tight bend radius at the trailing edge. If it doesn't you should
bend it closed further.
As you mentioned, if not bent closed enough, the surface tends to float,
reducing stability, and control effectiveness.
The oil canning is probably caused bulges resulting from the
trailing edges not being squeezed enough. Did you put RTV or proseal at
the trailing edges when you built them. This should stabilize them
enough. I stay away from the expanding foam though, very easy to do
damage with the expansion of that stuff.
Scott Mc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Lost Pwr in T/O, pilot ok, Questions |
When I insulated my gascolator and added a blast tube to the box surrounding
it, the vapor lock problem got worse, not better. That was because I took
air from the back of the baffles. When the plane was moving, I got cool air
through to the gascolator, but when the plane was sitting still, the air
blowing onto the gascolator was actually very hot air from the area above the
cylinders. Be careful if you add a blast tube that you don't make the same
mistake that I did. I eventually took the gascolator off and moved the fuel
filter into the cockpit. Then I added the return line from the carb so that
I could pump the hot fuel out of the cowl area. That worked.
Jim Cone
RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank construction |
A question before I screw up my project!
I'm fitting the left tank up. All the surrounding skins are already cleco'd
in place. This makes for quite a challenge in fitting and filing the fuel
tank. I'm trying to think of an easier way than strapping it down, marking,
removing, filing, re-strapping, etc. Can I just mount the tank to the ribs
and then slide the baffle back and forth to get fit and file the tank against
the LE? What would I screw up?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F674 cut out |
to Jim (and Derek and all....)
> leaving a bit of extra skin per the manual and your notes on the
> subject. How did you fellas draw your curved lines without using
> French (?) curves, etc. I've just about had enough of buying tools for
> this project and am hoping I can do it without buying more. It dawned
> on me that I might be able to use the bottom edge of the canopy, once
> it's trimmed a bit.
-the plans give some points to pass thru. Plot them out on the sheet.
Draw some initial curves thru these points. Now put your eye down close to
the line looking along it. I found it easy that way to see the flat spots
in the initial curve. Several attempts and you can get a very nice, smooth
curve. Note that the height of the canopy cut elevation is aesthetically
critical to the same height of the tilt-up portion, i.e. it should appear
to carry thru from the front to the back. Be sure to compensate if the
tilt-up portion is overlapping the fuse.
-the canopy looks nice if trimmed on the interior with a piece of aluminum
to cover the cut edge and distribute the pop rivet load. The trick here is
to not attempt the final cuts on either edge because this curved piece
travels thru 3-D space offset by the thickness of the canopy. Simply
tracing the curve of the skin aluminum doesn't work. So, trace the curve
onto some aluminum and then cut the trim piece a good 2" on each side of
this line. Now when you fit the trim piece you will have extra width,
because as you reach the rear of the canopy you will start getting more and
more off the original line due to the thickness of the canopy plastic. So
just keep drilling and clecoing. When done remove and cut both finish
edges based on the rivet holes. You should have at least 1" or so to make
the trim piece. If you were really thinking ahead this trim piece can be
cut from the skin drop from the above step. (It took me several attempts
otherwise to learn this method)
kevin 6A tilt-up 32hrs!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
:
> > >Kevin, The heavy wing is the one that wants to drop when you let go
of the
> > stick.
>
> I happened to be watching the construction videos this weekend (it was
> too yucky out to do anything else) and ran across the trim section.
> George mentions trimming the rudder first. This is good advice, because
> the wing will tend to drop on the side that the plane yaws toward. Not
> sure if that would cause the effect he was noting, but it kinda sounded
> like crossed controls to me.
having been previously threatened by the lurking builder wannabe attorney
from whom I purchased my crooked empennage I won't say anything more :=)
but 5/8" out of line is enough to warrant reskinning my V-stab. Scott McD
at Van's agrees with you that the yaw has to be corrected first and even
leg fairings can be the culprit. Given the choice of reskinning vs. moving
the base of the v-stab over and building a new fairing(involving the "F
word") and still not being sure it will be right I guess I have no choice
but to sue, no, I mean reskin. Meanwhile, it's still honeymoon time with
flights daily(it's tough being self-employed. "gee, the line's busy, guess
I'll have to fly over to Vans and talk with Scott or Phil") kevin 6A
32hrs!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stop block |
> I am about to attempt the installation of the aileron stop block on my
> 6A left wing. Any tips
> about this?? Cant' find much in the way of documentation anywhere.
Rick-
Maybe this already got answered, but I clearly am not getting all the posts
- anyone else also having trouble?
Halfway up the left edge of dwg 16 shows, without position information,
generally where the stop goes. On page 7-18 in my '93 vintage manual (in
the section called "Attaching Ailerons and Flaps to Wings"), the up travel
limit is specified as 30 degrees. The left aileron up stop provides the
down stop for the right aileron and vice-versa.
Once the steel U shaped aileron hinge bracket (the one the pushrod connects
to) is drilled to the bearing, a protractor can be used to mark out the
appropriate angles (you don't need the whole aileron, only the bracket).
Draw some straight reference line on the bracket, align the bracket
perpendicularly to the chord, then rotate it the specified angle, then mark
where the edge of the U bracket is on the bearing bracket. Then rivet a
small plate on at this marked line to the bearing bracket with 3 or 4
number 4 rivets. Be sure to understand the lateral positioning of the
steel hinge bracket before determining how thick the stop needs to be.
Alex Peterson
6A Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew J. Leary" <mjleary(at)elitesys.com> |
| Subject: | Question on construction videos - Also first post |
As a pre-builder (just sent for plans) I'm trying to learn as what I can
and make up for my lack of knowledge as much as possible before setting
gun to rivet. I've seen reference to some construction videos which
would seem to be great help in this.
Any suggestions on which videos and where to get them? Apologies in
advance if this has been posted in some archive, but I'm just getting
this mailing list figured out.
Also, I just turned 30, and it seems like most of the posts I've seen
come from people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I
suspect I've currently got. Anyone else building from a
bright-eyed/bushy-tailed perspective?
Thanks - M
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Johnson <jjohns(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post |
Matthew J. Leary wrote:
>
>
> As a pre-builder (just sent for plans) I'm trying to learn as what I can
> and make up for my lack of knowledge as much as possible before setting
> gun to rivet. I've seen reference to some construction videos which
> would seem to be great help in this.
>
> Any suggestions on which videos and where to get them? Apologies in
> advance if this has been posted in some archive, but I'm just getting
> this mailing list figured out.
Matt,
I am just starting myself. I purchased George Orndorff's tapes for the
Empennage and also his tapes for the wings. RV6/8.... I really
enjoyed the tapes and think that it helped me get a grasp of what I was
getting into... You can purchase the tapes from Avery 817-439-8400.
The Emp kit arrived today and I have not had time to really look it over
yet. I hope to inventory it tomarrow...
Good Luck,
John Johnson
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F674 cut out |
>
>Make sure you leave a good inch, as Van's plans advise.
>
>I found that mine, the side skirts on canopy frame was almost perfectlay
>straight across on the top edge of that F674 trim line at plus the 1 inch.
> Had I trimmed it closer I'd be miffed. It would look terrible.
I would echo this, while 1 inch extra might be enough in the center,
definitely start with TWO inches excess at the ends and trim later.
>I found that you need to be flat for about 4 inched in the centerline, rear
>most cut out position. Draw a centerline on the skin, going fore and aft.
> Cut that same centerline down to the proposed 1" plus trim point. Then I
>cut out side ways one way. Oh yeah, Drawing with sharpie, I free handed the
>remaining arc intersecting Van's dimensions given.
I used a spline since my freehand lines are somewhat "smoothness
challenged"...:^) ... any long, flexible object will do. I used a left
over piece of 1/8 inch square spruce from my model plane days. Just flex
it and hit as many points as possible, draw some of the curve, then move it
along and draw more of the curve.
>
>Now you cut only one half away. You take your trimming and flip it over,
>trace it on the otherside and presto the cut is symetrical. I did no further
>trimming on my skin after that and it looks fine IMHO.
Does this mean the final trim was done on the first pass?? .. doesn't
sound wise to me ....
The curve can be smoothed by sanding with the sandpaper put on a
standard hard rubber sanding block backwards (over the curved section, not
paper side out ...:^) This makes a nice way of smoothing out large concave
curves.
I think I cut to within 1/8 inch of the line with snips, and then sanded
away the rest with a 2 inch sanding disk on my angle die grinder. The
final hand sanding with the curved block really smoothed out the curve, and
I have no little 'snip marks' in the fianl part.
>
>Further trimming? It's really up to how flush the plexi and skin rest
>together, then how close you make your C/S screws are to skin edge and if you
>can drill the mess so as to work out any small wow's. I did turn the edge
>slightly with that round tool with the 2 draw rollers, made for overlapping
>skin joints.
>
Don't dimple the skin/bulkheads until the plexi is fitted ... this
makes it easier to lay out the old skin on top of a new piece of aluminum
and transfer holes when you over-trim the plexi ....:^) ... guess how I
know - see the archives.
Gil (keep on trimming, and trimming ...) Alexander
-------------------------------------------------------
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
Hi all, I'm a new subscriber to the list and I'm building a -4 using a Chevy
V-6 for motive power. I have the airframe basically completed and am
beginning the engine installation now. It is, like any engineering exercise,
a very interesting project.
I would be interested in hearing from some of the "auto engine" proponents in
the group. I don't need to hear anyone telling me why it is: (A) not a good
idea to do this (B) unsafe, (C) time consuming, (D) too heavy, etc., but if
you have any positive ideas or comments or can offer any engineering
expertise, please feel free to "drop me a line". I am a mechanical engineer,
and auto conversions are very intriguing to me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | F674 cut out; F675 bulkhead tracings |
I'd like to thank all who responded to my F674 cut out. The reason I
asked that this be responded to off line is because I was sure it would
be in the archives when they come back on line at a future date.
The preferred method, which I had used when I did the bulkhead
tracings on the F675 to sorta clean them up a bit, was to use a long
straight edge bent through the critical points to create a curve. I was
hoping this was the method to be used. I'll use it today to redraw my
lines and will cut out accordingly. I'm also allowing anywhere from
1.25" to 1.5" extra meat on the skins for fudge factor. Initial fit up looks
good with much extra.
For those doing the F675, it's easy to move the bulkheads a little each
way for clean up. When I traced the bulkheads on the insides, I saw
that they didn't quite match. I used a curve like the above to match
them up by plotting points on each side that matched. I then drilled
through the skins using the new lines as my guide. The new lines were
then used to position the bulkheads at drilling time. When I drilled the
bulkheads, the holes were right where I wanted them.
I hope this helps the ones who are just behind me.
Jim Sears
RV-6A #22220 (Doing the F674 skin. Overhauling the engine.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post |
>
>As a pre-builder (just sent for plans) I'm trying to learn as what I
can
>and make up for my lack of knowledge as much as possible before setting
>gun to rivet. I've seen reference to some construction videos which
>would seem to be great help in this.
>
>Any suggestions on which videos and where to get them? Apologies in
>advance if this has been posted in some archive, but I'm just getting
>this mailing list figured out.
>
>Also, I just turned 30, and it seems like most of the posts I've seen
>come from people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I
>suspect I've currently got. Anyone else building from a
>bright-eyed/bushy-tailed perspective?
>
>Thanks - M
>
Matt,
First of all...WELCOME! You're among friends. I'm 33, have built RC
aerobatic planes for many years, but never had a rivet gun in my hands
until it was time to put the tail kit together. You learn as you go..and
you WILL make some boo-boos...it's all a part of the learning process.
But..you'd be AMAZED at how much you will learn in a very short time. If
you can do basic home repair, change the oil in your car, etc., you can
build an RV! Van's instructions are very clear..concise and logical. If
there are any grey areas along the way, that's what this list is for.
The knowledge base here is incredible. Van's is also very supportive and
I've received immediate response to emails I've sent to them. (Thanks,
Bill!).
As for videos. I've borrowed the Tail kit videos made by the Orndorffs.
They KNOW what they're doing...and it's not some glossy, overproduced
mess that's just trying to sell something. So, buy the tail kit tapes
(part 1 and 2), and you'll see what it's like to build an RV. The skills
acquired building the tail are simply done over..and over...and OVER
again until you have a plane! (Will I EVER get all my wing ribs
prepped??! *laughing*)
Again, welcome to our little world.
Brian Denk
RV-8 #379
building rear spars and priming everything in sight.
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HinkleyC(at)fca.gov |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 elevator bellcrank bushing |
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent
the policy or position * * * *
* * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * *
Brian,
We used a ream to make the bolt fit.
Curtis Hinkley
RV-8 N815RV reserved
CHink11769 @ aol.com
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rodwoodard(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Question on construction videos |
>Any suggestions on which videos and where to get them?
You're gonna get a ton of responses on this one... George & Becki
Orndorff make the videos everybody refers to. They make separate videos
for each stage of construction. I haven't checked in a while, but I
think they're $30-$50 per stage with a discount if you buy the whole
shebang at once. If you've really never built before, I'd also suggest
their basic "Tools" video. I'm constantly loaning it to friends who are
building glass airplanes or just thinking about an RV. George just
announced that they have a web site: www.cybrsuites.com/gbi
>Also, I just turned 30, and it seems like most of the posts I've seen
>come from people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I
>suspect I've currently got. Anyone else building from a
>bright-eyed/bushy-tailed perspective?
I don't know about bright-eyed/bushy-tailed, but I'm younger than you
are!! The big three--ohhhh. Looks like you're on the downhill slide! :-)
I'm building an RV-8 (very slowly). I didn't have any building experience
whatsoever before I started. Maybe it's good, maybe it's bad, maybe it's
just downright arrogant, but I figured if all these other people could do
it, why couldn't I?
The biggest challenge you'll have is making time to work on the project.
I have a terrible time finding time during the week. I usually work late
during the week and then have one person or another wanting to meet for
dinner or some family member wanting help with whatever. I'm not
complaining about the family members or the food... that's just the way
it goes. I make most of my progress on the weekends.
Feel free to e-mail or call direct. I'm always in the mood to talk
airplanes.
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033
Loveland, Colorado
(970)667-4848
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wanted; prop hub and spinner |
Mark:
So, did you ever find the parts you were seeking? I know a fella with a
spinner, but I don't know if he'll let it go.
What stage of the building game are you at?
Check six!
Mark
HR 2 190 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I recevied today from B&C Specialty a 24 position ground bus.
I understand that the firewall is sandwiched inbetween the brass
bolt, with the negative wire from the battery attached on the aft
side, and the engine ground led on the other. Is that all there is
to it?
The ground bus has blade type connections rather than the screws
that I would have expected. Has anyone ever had a problem with
these losing contact, or coming off?
One last question, where do I connect the #8 wire from the alt?
I have seen diagrams with it connected to the master relay,
the buss bar, and the positive side of the battery. Does it
really make a diffrence, or is it just a matter of choice?
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <AndersonE(at)bah.com> |
Have completed Mazda powered RV-6A and was awaiting FAA inspection. Have
since been informed that local FAA will not be able to perform inspection
prior to Jan/Feb time frame. I have asked for Certification application
paperwork to be return to me so that I may engage a DAR for the inspection.
I reside in Northern Virginia (Outside Washington D.C.) and aircraft is
stationed at Manassas Regional airport. Does anyone have phone
number/address of DARs in this region?? Would appreciate any points of
contact.
Thanks in Advance
Ed Anderson
andersone(at)bah.com
(703) 902-7005 Work
(703) 759-6712 Home.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.Henson(at)hfsmobility.com |
| Subject: | Piper Pitot Installation |
Can anyone that has mounted a Piper Blade Type Pitot on their RV e-mail me
privately. I'm having problems with the concept of drilling two big holes
through my main spar flange to mount this thing. What are the recomendations
i.e. Mount it forward of the spar? Any help and comfort would be
appreciated.
Thanks Sincerely,
Eric Henson
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Bryan;
Sorry so late answering, but I've been on a car trip to Wash. state and
Calif., very long but enjoyable. To see old war buddies before they too old
for me!
As to the pipe, you must have more knowledge then most of us. And certainly
the experience to make valid suggestions. I may some day regret my
application, but I hope not.
Stephenville hasn't changed much, grown a little, picked up some of the
normal growing pains etc. I think that Granbury has grown more in
proportion than we have. I almost settled in Grand. when I retired in 73,
but thought that it was on it's last legs and would shrivel up and maybe
blow away. So much for my ability to forecast things.
They are rapidly doing good things with the airport over there. Seems like
they may make it a really nice facility before it is over. Some new
construction and new organizations at the airport. Had some manager
problems but have it corrected now.
Hope your 8 is coming along nice. We went by Vans on our trip. Had to see
where they laid the eggs that can be incubated into finished birds. Spent
some time with Tom Green, we and a guy from Australia that had the bug.
They have sure improved the kits since my 1989 6 kit. It may well be my
next project.
John Darby
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Empenage fairing |
Fellow RVers:
Due to the large response for my empenage fairing and because of limited
shop space and time, I have sold my fairing mold and "business" to Mark
Frederick of Frederick Custom Airframe (also known as fellow lister, "check
six" Mark). Hopefully, he will be able to supply fairings in a more timely
manner than I am able to do.
Mark is going to make a male mold from my fairing which will give builders
an advantage in that they will no longer have to worry about cleaning and
sanding the outside surface for good bonds of the additional layers. The
floppy fairings from Mark will be smooth on the surface that is next to the
airplane and rough on the outside. Any mold release or wax will be on the
inside and the rough outside should require very little prep work. Just a
light sanding.
For all of the builders who have contacted me concerning my "floppy fairing",
please contact Mark, off list, at: Mlfred(at)aol.com I feel sure that he will
supply you with a quality fairing and in a much more timely manner than I
would be able to due to shop and time limitations. Sorry for any
inconvenience this may cause but I think this solution will be best for
builders (and allow me time for working on my second RV, hiking in the
mountains, trout fishing and traveling to visit my children.)
Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 385 hrs Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post |
Matthew J. Leary wrote:
>
>
> As a pre-builder (just sent for plans) I'm trying to learn as what I can
> and make up for my lack of knowledge as much as possible before setting
> gun to rivet. I've seen reference to some construction videos which
> would seem to be great help in this.
> Also, I just turned 30, and it seems like most of the posts I've seen
> come from people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I
> suspect I've currently got. Anyone else building from a
> bright-eyed/bushy-tailed perspective?
Matt,
Welcome to RV-dom! You will find this list to be a tremendous resource
as you gather info about your upcoming project.
Even though I am building more from a dim-eyed, slimy-tailed viewpoint,
you may find the photo log I am keeping of construction to be helpful.
My site is geared toward the prospective builder and the builder who is
in the early stages of construction.
And while I am in the process of overt, crass promotionalism, some of
the builders may be interested in seeing the dimpling table that now
resides on my workbench. While I am sure it is not an original idea, it
really makes it easier to handle those skins as you try to avoid leaving
a "nastie" while dimpling all those interior holes. The table can be
seen on the Getting Ready to Build page:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/ready.html
Home page is: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Shameless promotion mode .
Good luck on your project!
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank construction |
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan) |
>A question before I screw up my project!
>I'm fitting the left tank up. All the surrounding skins are already
cleco'd<<
I am assuming you have a PP kit. You want your baffle supported
with 2- 7/8 inch wood blocks ( cut a dado for the rivet heads). If your
LE section is right, the tank skin should fit. Main thing is ?does the
LE & tank leading edge end up straight. The edge of #6 rib should butt
up against the w-623 strip. If there is a tapper between the tank & LE,
file to fit. After the tank lines up right , you can file tank, LE, or
main skins to fit. Roll your edges that need it prior to drilling.
Drill all #8 screws holes to #30 & use a nut plate & 1/8 cleco to
locate the nut plate rivet holes BEFORE you in large the holes to #19.
If you do drill them #19, then use a #8 screw & nut plate to locate or
they will not be centered.
Your inbd 6 screws on upper & lower flanges ( aft row) can not be
dimpled on the aft row without Bob Avery's special tool. ( p/n 4540).
You want to dimple the 623 back plate & use K1100 recessed nut
plates & dimple the skin.
Aft row---- Demple skin, dimple flange, install K1100 recessed.
Fwd row-- Wait till the tank is Pro-sealed, then c/s the
skin/bafflle, & install K1000 flat nut plates.
Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan) |
Matt:
I am on my wings of a 6A. Down load Frank Justist's notes. George Ordoff
sells viedios & are read good. He is showing you a none PP kit, so your
learn a lot that you don't have to know. Van's b/p, & sketches are real
good, but keep in mind that they don't use normal convention on folding
views & his sections will not be right. Just make sure you know it is a
right or left views. I would not start on a fast build, at least build
the tail. big learning curve , but after that you will use every thing
you learn. The control surfaces are very thin & just not having the skin
normal to the dimple dies will produce a smilly , so don't get in a hurry
& understand what the instructions are telling you. The early cautions
get boring but later after you screw up & go back & read them again, sure
enough they said don't do that!!!
You are already ahead of me cause it took me a long time to find this
LIST.
Good luck
Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post |
> >Any suggestions on which videos and where to get them?
The Orndorff videos are available from Vans and Averys. My page
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/homebilt.htm has links to their pages,
amongst others useful to building RVs.
> >Also, I just turned 30, and it seems like most of the posts I've seen
> >come from people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I
> >suspect I've currently got. Anyone else building from a
> >bright-eyed/bushy-tailed perspective?
At 39, I'm not as, ummm, mature as some on the list. You gain skills
very quickly as you go along. With the skills comes confidence.
> But..you'd be AMAZED at how much you will learn in a very short time. If
> you can do basic home repair, change the oil in your car, etc., you can
> build an RV!
Hell, you don't even need to be that skilled! When I started, I was
encouraged by someone (already flying his RV) who said his only prior
metalwork experience was removing foil from Chinese meals. Over here,
Chinese meals don't have foil on them! You do more time than you
thought, more money than you thought, and a measure of determination and
persistence and patience, and an ability to get over your screw-ups. To
get you started, join your local chapter of EAA, and attend one of the
sheet metalworking classes run by Aircraft Spruce or whoever.
> Van's instructions are very clear..concise and logical.
I beg to differ, unless the RV-8 manual is 100% better than the RV-6
manual. You *will* want the Justice Supplemental Instructions, and later
Will Cretsinger's wing construction notes. IMHO, you'll find my own
Bunny's Guide useful too.
> (Will I EVER get all my wing ribs prepped??! *laughing*)
You think that's bad? Wait until you get to deburring the wing skins and
skeleton. And consider your self fortunate not to be building a
biplane! :-)
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com> |
| Subject: | Slider Vs. Tip-up |
I am about to make the decision for my canopy for my -6A. I like the
overall function of the slider, but I like the clear visibility of the tip
up. Any suggestions?
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
1. Does anyone know where I can get plans for a strobe light
system that would output the 400 lumins needed to be legal ?
2. Does anyone have a electric trim servo for the rv6 elevator
they want to part with ?
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <spruell(at)qedsoln.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage jig needed in Houston area |
charset="iso-8859-1"
I'm really trying to avoid building one if I don't have to. If you are
nearly through with your fuse jig and you live in the greater Houston
area,
please drop me a line.
Steven Spruell
RV-6A
Houston Bay Area RVators - http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider Vs. Tip-up |
Paul Besing wrote:
> I am about to make the decision for my canopy for my -6A. I like the
> overall function of the slider, but I like the clear visibility of the > tip
up. Any suggestions?
I let my emotions make this choice: I think the slider looks cool and I
don't want my pax seeing the back of the instrument panel when open.
I've flown in both a -6 and 6a slider and the visibility is such a
phenomenal improvement from my Citabria and other prod a/c that I never
noticed the windshield frame. 'course that could have been due to oohing
and aahing over my first RV flights:)
--
Greg Young gyoung@cs-sol.com
Citabria N90AV
RV-6 s/n 23070 skinning fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Colin Strong <Colin_Strong(at)ccm2.hf.intel.com> |
Text item:
There is a new set of tapes that deals with the PP kit now.
Colin Strong
RV6 #25216 - HS Skeleton taking shape.
George Ordoff sells viedios & are read good. He is showing you a none PP kit,
so your learn a lot that you don't have to know.
Text item: External Message Header
The following mail header is for administrative use
and may be ignored unless there are problems.
***IF THERE ARE PROBLEMS SAVE THESE HEADERS***.
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 12:30:48 EST
From: juno.com!donspawn(at)matronics.com (Don R. Jordan)
Subject: RV-List: New builder
>Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1)
by netcomsv.netcom.com (8.8.5-r-beta/8.8.5/(NETCOM v1.01)) id KAA04440;
by hebe.or.intel.com (8.8.6/8.8.5) with ESMTP id LAA11951
________________________________________________________________________________
I am getting close to riveting the side skins to my RV-4 canopy, and would
like some input from the list. What have others used to seal the skin-plexi
joint from water leaking in? Silicone would probably squish out and make a
mess of the plexi, would it not? Maybe some kind of windshield sealer?
Also, how do you keep the skins from scratching the paint on the fuselage
where they make contact?
Thanks in advance
Pat Allender
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com |
We have been flying a vortec V-6 in an RV-6 for over 1 year 177 hours to
date before that a Swift with a Buick V-8 for 14 years and 750 hours, your
welcome to come to LAS and fly the plane.
Jess Meyers
RV-6A N9267Y
(702)384-8006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Cheap FUN flying while you're building |
OK folks, I know this is not exactly RV related but at least its about
airplanes. One of the things that kept me going while I built my RV-6A
was the fact that I had something else to fly during construction.
This message is to place my Phantom UL for sale.
Now I know that a lot of people laugh at ultralights, (particularly
people have have never flown one), but THIS IS ONE FUN AIRPLANE,
especially for punching holes in the sky, chasing cows and more or less
anything else other than getting to far away place quickly. Why am I
selling it? No, its not because I have a "better" plane now. It is
because I need to trade it for a different model with folding wings so I
can squeeze it in my hangar next to the RV. I will ALWAYS have an
ultralight to fly. For what it does well, nothing does it better.
Ultralights are a kick in the pants. The modern airframes are extremely
strong and well built. The engines are reliable and the performance is
much improved over older models. My Phantom flies from 25 mph to 85 mph.
It will climb about 1200 fpm at sea level and can be safely operated
from a 300' grass field. It is as aerobatic as an RV and with few
exceptions will do anything you can do. I've even seen one outside loop.
I've had mine up to 15,000' and it's still nimble enough to play around.
So here's my offer:
FOR SALE
Phantom ultralight type aircraft. It's too fast to be considered a true
FAR 103 type ultralight. (certificated as N-636AG)
Rotax 503DC - CDI - free air cooled, 2.58:1 Rotax B gear box.
40 hours STOH. 3 blade adjustable 62" carbon fiber Sport Prop
flaps, brakes, chrome molly gear, extended windshield, floor on pod,
like new blue, light blue, and white split sails with windows,
10.5 gallon tank with sump and drain, BRS-5
panel: airspeed, altimeter, dual cht, dual egt, digital tach, hour meter
primer, 720 channel VHF radio with booster and remote mounted antenna
Always hangared and currently located in Granby, Colorado (100 miles
north west of Denver)
The price is $9500. ($8500 without the BRS)
Andy Gold
PO Box 270
Tabernash, CO 80478
970-887-2207 days
970 887-2194 evenings
(Thanks for your patience. I won't post this on the RV list again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank construction |
> Fwd row-- Wait till the tank is Pro-sealed, then c/s the
>skin/bafflle, & install K1000 flat nut plates.
And, when machine countersinking the fwd row of #8 screw holes, it is very
helpful to make a pilot guide out of thick aluminum that you can clamp to
the inside surface to hold the pilot steady when machine countersinking each
hole. If you try to machine countersink for a #8 screw in the thin metal
without this aid, you'll tend to end up with an enlarged, oblong countersink
hole.
Bob Skinner RV-6 385 hrs Bufffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com> |
Tested my fuel tanks, it appears the proseal does workso far. I did
incoundter two leaks one at the gasket where the fuel pick up is at (I may
have tightened to much) can I use rtv or some such thing. The other leak
is at the gas cap I tried tightening the nut but is really tight. Any
words of wisdom
joe(at)mcione.com
joe/wing/tank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)startext.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tail trailing edges |
Bob Japundza wrote:
> I have noticed the elevators don't appear to be bent
> at their trailing edges as far as they could be
Bob, Some of my trailing edges were not "sharp" as I felt was desirable
but I did not go back to the brake. I placed a small piece of cloth on
the trailing edge and used my hand seamer to produce a smaller radius.
Worked fine...the seamer is adjustable so you can control the
results...you work along the edge until you like what you see...a
sharper trailing edge.
Will Cretsinger
RV-6A Now trimming tilt canopy and writing notes to use for my next RV.
Arlington, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Robbins <robm(at)am2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post |
Matthew J. Leary wrote:
>
> Also, I just turned 30, and it seems like most of the posts I've seen
> come from people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I
> suspect I've currently got. Anyone else building from a
> bright-eyed/bushy-tailed perspective?
>
Welcome to the list. We did an ad hoc youngest builder survey on the
list about a year ago. I spent 6 years (before all of the wonderful
prefab) building my RV-4 and was 29 when I made the first flight (it was
a while ago but I won't say when).
Scott Geselle did his RV-6 first flight a few months ago and I think
he's probably the youngest to build and fly now. However, for some
strange reason, he hasn't been posting to the list much lately!?!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Vs. Tip-up |
>
>I am about to make the decision for my canopy for my -6A. I like the
>overall function of the slider, but I like the clear visibility of the tip
>up. Any suggestions?
Paul it is a very personal choice. I vote for a slider on the -6A
and a tip up on the -6. If fact I had the slider for the -6A kit I had
before I decided not to change the sump on my engine because the carb was to
close to the nose gear. So I changed to a -6 and a tip up. I'd rather
switch then fight. Any way they are all great looking to the father.
Have a good one.
Denny RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flyinghi(at)worldnet.att.net |
Contact Belted Air (Jess Meyers) if you have not done so yet. He can be
reached at (702) 384-8006 and I believe he can be a great help to you. I
am installing the Vortec in mine (-6A) currently.
Charles Golden
RV-6A
----------
> From: aol.com!Rvbldr3170(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Vortec RV-4
> Date: Wednesday, November 12, 1997 10:21 AM
>
>
> Hi all, I'm a new subscriber to the list and I'm building a -4 using a
Chevy
> V-6 for motive power.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Goeddel <tgoeddel(at)mail.monmouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Local DARs??? |
Hi Ed,
>I reside in Northern Virginia (Outside Washington D.C.) and aircraft is
>stationed at Manassas Regional airport. Does anyone have phone
>number/address of DARs in this region?? Would appreciate any points of
>contact.
There is a fellow named Fred Kacena in Newark, DE that is a DAR that might
be able to help you. I haven't used him myself yet, but he gave a talk at
our local EAA chapter a few years ago, and at the East Coast RV Forum in
Frederick, MD this year. I'm not sure what he charges. The number I have for
him is (302) 368-3781. Hope this helps.
Tom Goeddel
RV-6a (still on the fuse...)
tgoeddel(at)monmouth.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider Vs. Tip-up |
seems to me the sliding canopy would make it easier to exit in case of a
rollover. Cooler while taxiing as well. Looks much better, too(my opinion).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | Internet Message |
Matt:
You wrote: "Any suggestions on which videos and where to get them?"
George Orndorff made the videos and they're available from
Avery Tool. I'd recommend anyone buying at least the empennage
video: it'll give you a very clear idea of what's involved in
building this project.
You asked " Anyone else building from a bright-eyed/bushy-tailed
perspective?"
I am, but I'm well over 50 years old. There are,
I know, some 30 ish types building. Check your local EAA chapter as
well as the List.
Good luck and best wishes.
George Kilishek
RV-8 #80006.
Fuel tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< where do I connect the #8 wire from the alt? >>
To the output (switched side) of the master contactor or the master side of
the starter contactor, whichever is closer and simplifies routing. They are
electrically the same point anyway.
Then go from this same point to the main bus on your panel with something
like 10 or 12 AWG depending on how many toys you are powering. Do the calcs
in AC43.13-1A based on draw and distance. Or, better yet, get ahold of Bob
Nuckoll's AeroElectric Connection Book for the full story.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stop block |
> I am about to attempt the installation of the aileron stop block on my
> 6A left wing. Any tips
> about this?? Cant' find much in the way of documentation anywhere.
I ended up using a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" angle for the stop blocks. I
did this because I ended up with quite a bit of space betwen the
edge of the ailron bracket (attached to the wing) and the edge of the
steel bracket attached to the aileron.
I recall that I had to do some trial and error fitting to get the
stops set so that both ailerons could travel as far as possible in
either direction without exceeding the limits specified in the plans.
Good Luck!
Tim
------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023
Springfield VA
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Vs. Tip-up |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> I am about to make the decision for my canopy for my -6A. I like the
> overall function of the slider, but I like the clear visibility of the tip
> up. Any suggestions?
I started out wanting a slider because it gave me the feeling of a
fighter plane from WWII and I heard that it would be cooler. Then I had
a ride in an RV-6 with a flip up and was amazed at the panaramic view.
This made me question if I really wanted a slider. Fortunately I was
able to get a ride in a RV-6A with a slider on a hot August day at OSH.
The long delay to take off confirmed that the open slide canopy did keep
you cooler while waiting. Once in the air the roll bar was hardly
noticed compared to the overall visability that the canopy provides.
This ended my delema and now I'm finishing up the rear skirt of my
slider, not really as hard as it looks or people make it out to be.
Frank Smidler
Ready to drill the aft spar to the carry through.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eprth(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
Hi all,
Well I've done all the reading and research I can and today I took the
plunge and ordered the rv6 empannage kit. My shop is ready and I can't wait
to begin construction. My wife hasn't even been that opposed to the idea so
things are really looking good so far. Anyway, thanks for all the usefull
info on the list and I'm sure I'll be back for more posts.
Tim Houle
Three Hills AB Canada
(no longer a RV wanabe)
***************************
Tim Houle
email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)startext.net> |
joseph.wiza wrote:
> Tested my fuel tanks, it appears the proseal does workso far. I did
> incoundter two leaks one at the gasket where the fuel pick up is at (I may
> have tightened to much) can I use rtv or some such thing. The other leak
> is at the gas cap I tried tightening the nut but is really tight. Any
> words of wisdom
How do you know if the proseal really works until you have tested with
no leaks?? I had leaks at the gasket and at the screws but slight
tightening remedied the leakage...if it hadn't, I would have removed the
offending screw and reinstalled with proseal on the threads.
Vans advised me that the gas fillers were not supposed to be airtight
but I"ve seen listings saying fuel would be siphoned if they were not
airtight...so I'm confused. Anyway, I found some 3M tape used in
libraries which was wide enough to cover the filler while testing with
air pressure. The tape bulged out into a dome but held pressure for a
long term test.
The above information is in my Wing Construction Notes which was on the
net before Hovan departed.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
Apprehensively trimming tilt canopy and writing notes for my next RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D Hiatt" <ottopilot_msn(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fill rivets before painting? |
Jerry, you don't say what you're intending to use your RV for. I've heard
from Oshkosh judges that they actually count off points for doing this. One
even told me "If you want a plastic-look, build a composite airplane!"
I'm nowhere near the paint spraying stage, yet. I haven't decided what I'm
going to do, but I don't see how leaving a row of rivets showing enhances
anything.
--
Mark D Hiatt Visit us on the new MSN v2.5!
OttoPilot_MSN@msn.com http://Forums.msn.com/Aviation
Aviation Forum Manager, AvChat Mondays 10pm Eastern
The Microsoft Network
>
>Is it neccessary to fill the rivets so that don't show thru the paint?
>
>Jerry RV-6A Painting
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
*** big snip ***
>Vans advised me that the gas fillers were not supposed to be airtight
>but I"ve seen listings saying fuel would be siphoned if they were not
>airtight...so I'm confused. Anyway, I found some 3M tape used in
>libraries which was wide enough to cover the filler while testing with
>air pressure. The tape bulged out into a dome but held pressure for a
>long term test.
>
>The above information is in my Wing Construction Notes which was on the
>net before Hovan departed.
Will ... the notes are on my site at ....
http://www.flash.net/~gila
.. and this site is still up!
Gil (it's at my site) Alexander
>
>Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
>Apprehensively trimming tilt canopy and writing notes for my next RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider Vs. Tip-up |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I think its mostly a personal preference thing but I'll add my 2 cents.
I have an RV-6A with a slider but I have flown them and installed them
both.
I think the visibility issue should have minimal weight in the decision.
The 6 slider has much better vis than most any certif airplanes you
probably have flown. I don't think its a big issue.
The tilt up is easier to seal for air leaks etc.
The tilt up is easier to install for a very nice fit (don't get me wrong
the canopy installation, regardless of which kind or which RV model is
probably the most challenging part of the airframe construction for any
RV builder)
The slider can be fully opened for ground operations (built my airplane
while still in PHX.... 115 Deg. in the summer!)
Looks cool taxiing in with your arm hanging over the side, can make a
mess of your hairdo though.
Its easy to install a lock system that allows you to lock the canopy
slightly cracked open when you leave it parked out in the sun at all the
Fly-in's that you will attend.
Scott Mc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
On the end plates and fuel senders I prefer to just put them on with
proseal and then you can be almost sure they wont leak. Leaks are a pain
(they are anywhere, but...) but it is very tight to work in that area
after the wing is on the airplane. Don't worry, if you do use proseal
you can get it apart if you ever have to. In fact it doesn't seem to be
to much worse than with a cork casket with casket sealer that's been in
place for a few years (cleaning off the proseal residue to reseal the
part is another story).
Scott Mc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post |
<346A0431.491843D5(at)pec.co.nz>
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I remember back in the good old days (no that doesn't mean that I am a
more mature age than most builders, started my first RV 9 years ago, at
the tender age of 29. At that time I was the youngest builder that I
knew of. Good to see that trend changing) when to prep your ribs it meant
to cut out all the lightening holes with a fly cutter, debur, preplan
your rivet pattern for the skins so that you knew where to flute the rib
(Fluting diagrams? Didn't even dream of having something like that),
etc. etc. ......
--------- Prepunch Rules ---------- !!!!!!!!
(sorry, couldn't resist)
Scott Mc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
For ground connections I would prefer to use ring terminals and screws.
Blade type connectors can get loose/pulled off over time.
As for the 8 GA. wire, I am assuming you are writing of the supply
line from the alternator to the buss (is that correct?). I believe that
is typically routed too the buss through a fuse/breaker of the same value
as the output rating of the alternator. This is assuming that you have a
switch controlling the alternator field so that you can shut it down if
need be.
Another good thing to do is wire your alt. field circuit through the
unused side of a double throw master switch so that it is not possible to
turn off the battery (master) and leave the alternator still on line.
This is only necessary if you are using separate toggle switches for
battery/master and alternator field, if you use one of the combined
master / alternator rocker switch units it already has this protection
built in; the battery/master portion cant be switched off without the alt
field portion also switching off.
Hope this is of help.
Scott Mc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "STEVE WHITE" <SGWHITE(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Cautionary Note Required ?? |
Van's should let builders of the RV6/6A, with the sliding canopy know --
That the improper fit of the C-666 rear canopy skirt can cause an
indentation in the firewall. I know, because after my third failed attempt
at getting the skirt to fit that's where I kicked the SON-OF-A- RV6A.
Anyone with advice, tips, tricks, or techniques on getting these shirts to
fit, I would love to hear from you.
Steve White
RV 6A - CANOPY
S/N 24000
N 823SW (RES)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Blind Holes |
In message <3077C83501D641D9(at)davinci.symbol.com>, KOZINSKI GARY
writes
>
>Don Jordan Wrote: Any ideas on how to locate the already drilled holes
>for the #8 screws?
Don
You can make a hole finder in about 5 mins. Bend a strip of aluminum
back on its self and drill the appropriate size hole through both
pieces. Put a rivit through one sheet with the head between the strips.
Slide the rivit side under the sheet find the hole with the rivit and
drill through the hole on the exposed strip. Easy to do, hard to
descride. You could have made one of these in the time it has taken for
me to type this.
>
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank Blind Holes |
Look in the preview plans for the hole finder. There is a drawing of it
very close to the 'H' jig that must be made.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Hatwell
[SMTP:overvne.demon.co.uk!hatters(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 1997 3:39 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank Blind Holes
>Don Jordan Wrote: Any ideas on how to locate the already
drilled holes
>for the #8 screws?
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cheap FUN flying while you're building (re. cow chasing) |
<< ultralights, (particularly
people have have never flown one), but THIS IS ONE FUN AIRPLANE,
especially for punching holes in the sky, chasing cows and more or less
anything else other than getting to far away place quickly >>
Andy,
I agree wholeheartly with your comments about ultralights being the most fun
thing to fly if you do not wish to go anywhere. I've had flights in F-16's,
F-4's, T-38's etc. and they are certainly more esciting than UL's, but not as
much fun.
I do take exception with chasing cows. I grew up on a dairy farm and had you
chased my grandpa's cows, he would have shot you or anybody who looked like
you out of the air next time he saw one. Maybe not every farmer would do that
to day, but he certainly would not look favorably at pilots when we grip
about losing our UL freedoms.
Bernie Kerr , finishing RV 6A wings. email kerrjb(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sealing canopy |
<< I am getting close to riveting the side skins to my RV-4 canopy, and would
like some input from the list. What have others used to seal the skin-plexi
joint from water leaking in?
You will need a sealer that won't attack the plexi, but will still take
paint. This rules out an awful lot of sealers (pure silicone, and automotive
style sealers). We use the stuff in the yellow tubes with the real big
letters "50 YEARS" on it. This stuff is siliconized latex, and will take
paint, and won't attack the plexi. We use the grey color, as it closely
matches the grey we use to paint the cabin area.
Silicone would probably squish out and make a
mess of the plexi, would it not? Maybe some kind of windshield sealer?
Also, how do you keep the skins from scratching the paint on the fuselage
where they make contact?
U S Plastic Corp (1-800-362-1000) sells 020 UHMW tape in varying widths.
Somehow this stuff helps the rear skirts fit a bit better, too. Use the 1"
stuff on the canopy skirts, or any other chafing area. Use 3" on your flaps,
and the color will show thru (and no slicing you fingers on that nasty SS
tape).
Thanks in advance
Pat Allender
>>
You're welcome!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)GEON.com> |
| Subject: | Cheap FUN flying while you're building |
[Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)]
Andy,
Sounds like fun, but chasing cows will get you shot at around
these parts! I would like to try buzzing some of those Colorado hills
and valleys someday though. I've always been in a car or at 35,000-ft
while in/over your very scenic state.
Bryan Jones
JONESB(at)GEON.COM
... for punching holes in the sky, chasing cows and ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Spruell" <spruell(at)qedsoln.com> |
| Subject: | Aerobatic Tank Fuel Level Sender |
charset="iso-8859-1"
I'm about to install the fuel level sender in my left (aerobatic) tank
in the second rib bay. Did anyone else use another access plate (I have
an extra one) in the baffle or did you just cut the holes for the sender
in the baffle? If I don't use the access plate, I can get the sender a
lot closer to the 2nd rib and get a little more accurate tank reading.
Since the entire sender can be passed through the mounting hole, I don't
see it as a problem if later removal is necessary.
If Van's has a drawing of this installation, I sure haven't been able to
find it.
Steven Spruell
RV-6A - Wings
Houston Bay Area RVators - http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Vs. Tip-up |
I like the survey method for the undecided. Ask the pilots flying sliders if
they wish they had saved money ,effort and gone with a tip up for better
visiblilty?
Count me as happy with a slider.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
Have RV-6 flying well but we get alot of winter here in Northern BC Canada.
Is there any one out there who has developed skiies who can help me get
some off that nice winter flying?
Your help in providing imfo as to size and mounting would be muth
appreciated, Thank you.
ED & Shirley H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>For ground connections I would prefer to use ring terminals and screws.
>Blade type connectors can get loose/pulled off over time.
Not true. 25,000 Cessnas have used the push-on terminals
on the backs of the rocker switches for over 30 years with
what I must assume is good success . . . there are no ADs
out to replace the switches.
See <http://www.aeroelectric.com/fast_on.html>
>As for the 8 GA. wire, I am assuming you are writing of the supply
>line from the alternator to the buss (is that correct?). I believe that
>is typically routed too the buss through a fuse/breaker of the same value
>as the output rating of the alternator.
. . . another thing that 50,000 Cessna's do . . . and the breaker
nuisance trips with regularity. If you do choose to use the classic
alternator b-lead connection, make it a breaker 10-20 amps bigger
than the alternator output and size the wire accordingly. To
reduce alternator noise and magnetic effects in the cockpit, we've
been running the alternator b-lead directly to the hot side of the
battery contactor with a short piece of 4AWG wire and protecting the
wire with an 80 amp inline fuse
See <http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html> or you can
purchase the JJN-80 or JJS-70 fuse from local electrical supply.
> . . . . . This is assuming that you have a
>switch controlling the alternator field so that you can shut it down if
>need be.
Which is recommended for EVERY alternator system so that adequate
ov protection can be included in the system.
>Another good thing to do is wire your alt. field circuit through the
>unused side of a double throw master switch so that it is not possible to
>turn off the battery (master) and leave the alternator still on line.
>This is only necessary if you are using separate toggle switches for
>battery/master and alternator field, if you use one of the combined
>master / alternator rocker switch units it already has this protection
>built in; the battery/master portion cant be switched off without the alt
>field portion also switching off.
This describes the classic split-rocker switch used on most
single engine airplanes since 1967 or so. It's expensive,
needs a rectangular hole to mount and provides very little
utility over using a double pole toggle to bring alternator
and battery of and on together. A pullable breaker in the
altenrator field line permits the alternator field lead
to be opened for batty-only maintenance ops on the ground.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< << where do I connect the #8 wire from the alt? >>
To the output (switched side) of the master contactor or the master side of
the starter contactor, whichever is closer and simplifies routing. They are
electrically the same point anyway.
Then go from this same point to the main bus on your panel with something
like 10 or 12 AWG depending on how many toys you are powering. Do the calcs
in AC43.13-1A based on draw and distance. Or, better yet, get ahold of Bob
Nuckoll's AeroElectric Connection Book for the full story. >>
I'm sorry that I neglected to also say that the 8 AWG alternator lead should
go thru a 70A circuit breaker or fuse on it's trip (pun intended) to the
contactor. For those of us who prefer to use circuit breakers, the 70A
push/pull part is available from E-T-A as P/N 41-3-S14-LN2-70A. It is a very
high quality, robust part with 1/4-28 threaded terminals. They can be
reached at 847-827-7600. The little devils are pricey though so it may pay
to buy several for your EAA chapter to get the quantity price break. About
$65 each in quantity of 3.
Or you could go the fuse route. They are available from B&C. Check the
Yeller Pages for their ph#.
November 03, 1997 - November 13, 1997
RV-Archive.digest.vol-dq