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-GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Subject: Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post
<< started my first RV 9 years ago, at the tender age of 29. >> I didn't realize that the RV9 kit has been available for years. Who knew and didn't tell me? -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
From: ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
>That the improper fit of the C-666 rear canopy skirt can cause an >indentation in the firewall. I know, because after my third failed >attempt at getting the skirt to fit that's where I kicked the SON-OF-A- RV6A. >Anyone with advice, tips, tricks, or techniques on getting these >shirts to fit, I would love to hear from you. Steve, my RV6A shirt fits very well, maybe you need a larger size... Sorry. I am not real happy with the fit of my canopy skirt either. Jim Cone had a really great article in his newsletter that describes riveting on a narrow (approx 2") skirt, then cutting a series of tabs that can bend up/down. You then rivet on another skirt to that for the other bend. In other words, you are using two separate pieces of aluminum, each curving a different way to avoid the compound curve of a single piece. It's very hard to describe, but the pictures in the article make it simple. I plan on doing that one of these days. I just FINALLY got around to making those $*#&# cuff fairings for the gear legs. I've been having too much fun flying! Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Subject: Using capacitance fuel level senders?
Has anyone installed a capacitance fuel level sender instead of the float-type one? Whose sender did you use? Did you mount it via the existing access plate, and run it uphill (and outboard) the entire length of the tank? Vision Microsystems lists an option for this type of sender. Has anyone used it? 'Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
From: Bob Nuckolls <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding
>I recevied today from B&C Specialty a 24 position ground bus. >I understand that the firewall is sandwiched inbetween the brass >bolt, with the negative wire from the battery attached on the aft >side, and the engine ground led on the other. Is that all there is >to it? > Yes. An important goal during the installation of stuff behind the panel is "single ground point" in order to eliminate the possibilty of the dreaded "ground loop" . . . Local grounding of things like landing lights or nav lights in an airplane with metal structure poses no risks of increased noise in the radios, etc. But grounding everything behind the panel to a single ground block is an important first step in designing possiblities of noise out of an airplane. Mike Busch on AVWEB did an article a few weeks back reviewing the new Cessnas . . . one of the features that Cessna is hawking as a "significant improvement" in current production airplanes is the single point ground system behind the panel. I'd like to believe that happend as a result of my having given some copies of The AeroElectric Connection to several folk on the single engine programs a couple of years ago. >The ground bus has blade type connections rather than the screws >that I would have expected. Has anyone ever had a problem with >these losing contact, or coming off? They sure don't LOOK substantial . . . but check out an article I did on our website. . . . See <http://www.aeroelectric.com/fast_on.html> . . . . and considere the fact that if a threaded fastener backs of 1/4 of a turn, you've lost the joint. Most ground busses I've seen in amateur built airplanes thread a piece of brass or copper and stick wires to them with ring terminals and screws. Unless you use screws with some form of thread locker or put locking nuts on the back side, there's a potential failure. The other feature of these installations was multiple grounds on single screws . . . loose one screw and loose several gizmos. The "forest of tabs" ground block was developed to discourage sharing ground points. There are enough on the ground block to let every gizmo enjoy it's own fastener. Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
From: Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com>
Subject: setting wing incidence
I have the wing bolted into the fuse for the all important task of drilling the rear spar attatch point. After squaring the wing to the fuse(it is level) I made the 2.8 in spacer block required to give the +1/2 deg of wing incidence. When I leveled the wing I do not have the minimum edge clearance for the attatch bolt (5/8 in). What I am thinking I will do is, keep the wing level and move the fuse to get the correct clearance. This is all good so far, but the empennage will have to be adjusted in relation to the fuse so that it maintains 1/2 deg less incidence than the wing. Because I am keeping the wing level I should only have to level the Horiz Stab and everything should be OK. My question to you guys/gals. Am I correct in understanding the relationship between the Wing and the Horizontal Stab. The wing should have 1/2 deg positive (up) and the Horiz Stab should be 0 deg of incidence. The fuse doesn't care where it sits in relation to this, (not taking the engine into account). I want to be very sure about this before drilling that hole in the rear spar. Have any of you run into this problem when setting your wing incidence, if so what did you do ? Are there any alligators lurking if I should do it this way.....:)! note: I am not sure if this message came through to everyone as I did not read or get one comment. I am hoping that this is the case(maybe these type of questions are taboo here?). Anyway I am posting again as I would like to hear other builders opinions. I have BTW now drilled the rear spar to the fuse attatch point. I did have to move the rear of the fuselage up to maintain the edge clearance,and keep the incidence at 1/2 deg,relative to the horizontal stab . Although it was not much it had to be moved, as there were no other alternatives. I am now aligning the tail to the fuse. Marc DeGirolamo RV-4 setting up wings and tail Saskatoon, SK mdee(at)dlcwest.com Marc DeGirolamo RV-4 Saskatoon,SK. Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
Steve: > Van's should let builders of the RV6/6A, with the sliding canopy know -- > That the improper fit of the C-666 rear canopy skirt can cause an > indentation in the firewall. I know, because after my third failed attempt > at getting the skirt to fit that's where I kicked the SON-OF-A- RV6A. Calm down, Steve... that's it, a couple of deep breaths -- in, hold for a second... then out. Now, isn't that better? The first piece of advice I'd give you is to walk away for a day or two, whatever it takes. You'll think a lot better when you get back to it, and maybe have formulated some solutions while you were away. The thing about the aft canopy skirt is that how it fits, and what you have to do to make it fit, depends on a lot of factors -- I imagine each plane is different. In fact, mine was different on one side vs. the other. I will give you some examples of fit probelms and solutions that I had, but I'm sure your mileage will vary. The main variable of course is the location of the canopy in relation to the aft skin when closed. Ideally you should be able to take a ruler and hold it on the plexi, at the angle of the plexi at the aft end, and have it contact the aft skin right where you want it to. Of course unless you're really lucky this won't be the case all the way around -- the angle of the plexi won't be right all the way around no matter what you do. I just made sure it was at least high enough or maybe higher but not low anywhere. I wasted a number of those C=665 stop blocks before I got it to be where I wanted it when closed. I then used a sanding block to grind down the aft edge of the plexi (I cut the plexi 1" longer than the canopy frame at the aft end) till it was at the right angle. In some places this meant beveling it pretty good, other places none at all. Also I "rolled" the fwd edge of the skirt, which helps it want to angle down at the back. When I fitted the skirts, I cracked the canopy open just enough so that the canopy sat about 1/8" high at the aft end. Once drilled, the skirts fit too tight when clecoed on, but when the pop-rivets go in it tends to make the skirt lift at the aft end, so having the canopy high when fitting should cancel that out. When drilling, you really need to pull forward on the bottom of the skirt as you go along. Best to have someone help with this part. One trouble you might have is if you already fitted skirts and drilled them, you will have to match drill the new ones. A strap duplicator here can interfere with the skirt fitting nice and tight but if you make one out of really thin material it will help. I screwed up one skirt half and used a combination of strap duplicator and the old skirt as a template, and the second one turned out better. This is tricky but if you are careful it can be done. Even after all of the above my skirts have a little gap at the top, about 1/16", out about 8" each side of center. I plan to do something I have seen others do about this, which is to make some straps out of .063, about 2.5" long x 1/2" wide, and pop-rivet one end to the underside of the aft canopy bow and rivet the other end to the skirt, such that they pull the skirt down. That's it for now. Any other questions email me and I'll try to help. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Subject: UHMW tape
Let's see if I can get my foot out of my mouth! I posted the wrong # earlier- I grabbed the wrong dang catalog too! U. S. Plastics 1-800-537-9724 UHMW tape: 1" #46243 13.04 for 18 yd 3" #46236 44.60 for 18 yd I sure hope I got this right! Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Tank Seal
Date: Nov 13, 1997
RTV is not impervious to gasoline. Try aviation cement or fuel lube. ---------- > > Tested my fuel tanks, it appears the proseal does workso far. I did > incoundter two leaks one at the gasket where the fuel pick up is at (I = may > have tightened to much) can I use rtv or some such thing. The other = leak > is at the gas cap I tried tightening the nut but is really tight. Any > words of wisdom > > joe(at)mcione.com > joe/wing/tank > > > | | | > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Tank Seal
Date: Nov 13, 1997
rtv is not impervious to gasoline. Try aviaion cement or fuel lube ---------- > > Tested my fuel tanks, it appears the proseal does workso far. I did > incoundter two leaks one at the gasket where the fuel pick up is at (I = may > have tightened to much) can I use rtv or some such thing. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Subject: Re: Sealing canopy
>What have others used to seal the skin-plexi joint from water leaking in? >Silicone would probably squish out and make a mess of the plexi, would it not? >Maybe some kind of windshield sealer? Don't use windshield sealer: big mess. >Also, how do you keep the skins from scratching the paint on the fuselage >where they make contact? Hey, Pat: I used Silicone and it worked just fine. I used a clear type and not very much (but just enough, if you know what I mean): just enough to squish out and make a good seal, not enough to squish out all over the place. I used electricians tape to protect the edges both against the fuselage and the glass. I also advise putting on and trimming the skirts in cool weather (easy to do now). Why? I trimmed my canopy in the sun so I could see better and to keep the glass heated (?) and was trimming molecules off to get the fit I wanted. NOW: when it is in the sun or heated, the canopy skirts are a tight fit. Cooled off, there is a gap at the most rearward curved portion of the skirt. Still a good fit, however. Too picky? Yup, sure am. Have fun............. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William G. Knight" <airshows1(at)msn.com>
Subject: $70,000 - $75,000 For Your RV-6
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Still looking, guys. Need 180 HP RV-6 with slider and c/s prop and light IFR package, Phlogiston spar and/or quick-build or built by recognized (OSH awards) and experienced builder. At this price, must be low-time factory new or reman engine and new prop. Less $ for respected overhauler like Mattituck. Please e-mail or call 561-278-8369. Thanks, Bill Knight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Frank Justices wingkit.doc
> Randall, > I am about to start my 6A Emp kit. So I came here to get FJ's > instructions on the EMP kit. A colleague is about to do his wings and > so I thought I'd get him those instructions. The intro mentions the > Wingkit.doc and if he has done his fuse one guesses he has done his > wings(???- someone on the RVList said he was flying) so I am wondering > where the wing bits is?? > > Graham Jones I just recently got the rest of the current FKJ instructions and have been converting them to HTML as I have time. The emp and fuse are there (at http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice.html) I'll get the wings and finish on there as soon as I can, hopefully within a few days. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Subject: Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post
<< Also, I just turned 30, and it seems like most of the posts I've seen >come from people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I >suspect I've currently got. Anyone else building from a >bright-eyed/bushy-tailed perspective? >> Matt, I jumped in with both feet when I was 27 and was flying by 32. I am now an experienced old man of 35. Unless your a total poindexter I would imagine you would have no more problem than the rest of us. Good luck and welcome aboard. Ryan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com>
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
Date: Nov 13, 1997
---------- the skirt to fit that's where I kicked the SON-OF-A- RV6A. > > Anyone with advice, tips, tricks, or techniques on getting these shirts to > fit, I would love to hear from you. > > Steve White > RV 6A - CANOPY Contact Jim Cone at jamescone(at)aol.com he will soothe your pains and enable you to fit a draught free and tight fitting canopy. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com>
Subject: Fw: Electric trim
Date: Nov 13, 1997
---------- > From: Austin Tinckler <tinckler(at)axionet.com> > To: Im4(at)juno.com > Subject: Electric trim > Date: Thursday, November 13, 1997 7:13 AM > > Hi Mr. MacDonald, > I read your post last night re: the elec. trim. > I have a new, unused complete trim system for my RV-6 which I will not be > using. You are welcome to have it if interested. > I am located on the West coast of Canada, but that should not > matter as far as postal service goes. > Just shoot me a note if you care to. > Regards, > Austin Tinckler. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6AIR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
Try fiberglas! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com>
Subject: Question on construction videos - Also first post
Date: Nov 13, 1997
>>Also, I just turned 30, and it seems like most of the posts >>I've seen come from people with a lot more >>experience/confidence/ability then I suspect I've >>currently got. Anyone else building from a >>bright-eyed/bushy-tailed perspective? >Matt, > I jumped in with both feet when I was 27 and was > flying by 32. I am now an experienced old man of 35. > Unless your a total poindexter I would imagine you > would have no more problem than the rest of us. I started when I was 31 last year, and hope to be flying before I'm 42. Why I remember starting my canopy a month ago, a vibrant spunky fellow with all the hopes and dreams you would expect. God I miss that version of me. Everybody hits an area that seems very problematic and mentally defeating from time to time: for me, one was the electric trim on the elevator. After thinking about it for a few days I finally got fed up and just did it. I don't know what was so difficult at the time. Another is the canopy right now. I'm sure looking forward to being on the other side of this one! A friend (let's call him E.B.) is currently in a mental headlock with himself about his rudder and hasn't built in two months! Wow. We're thinking of having an intervention to snap him out of it... Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME working on the sliding canopy...arg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tank Seal
From: donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan)
Date: Nov 13, 1997
1>> one at the gasket where the fuel pick up Use Halimar 2>> at the gas cap I tried tightening the nut but is really tight. Rvator a few months back. Indicated O ring needs to be changed if it was the wrong color. Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: tail trailing edges
<346A4569.67B8(at)arlington.net>
From: donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan)
Date: Nov 13, 1997
<<< and used my hand seamer to produce a smaller radius. <<< Will: What is a seamer & how do you use it?? Working on the 3rd fuel cell. It is a shame I am going to leave one home. Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding
<3.0.1.16.19971113093612.2fef45ca(at)dtc.net>
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 13, 1997
I wrote, " can get loose or pulled off over time" not WILL get loose or pulled of over time. Working as an A&P doing a lot of avionics work in the past I have found lots of noise/ground loop problems caused by these type of connectors. I didn't say don't use them, I just mentioned that from my experience I prefer not to. (BTW I think all of us that have ever owned or done maint. on Cessna aircraft know that just because cessna did it on there airplanes doesn't mean its the best/only way (I 'm not talking specifically electrical items). I have never had an alternator C.B. trip open nor have of ever heard of anyone else mentioning it, but if what you say is true then an alternate installation might be a good idea. Yes Bob, I know what it describes, that's why I mentioned a way to do the same type of protection IF you are using the more inexpensive toggle switches instead of the split rocker switch. I wasn't at all advocating using it. And if you want to talk about expensive, seems to me those pullable breakers are a little on the pricy side compared to the standard type. (but maybe not any more than the combined cost of a breaker and a switch). Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: "Anthony Self" <CHEVY_TRUCK(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Vortec RV-4
>Hi all, I'm a new subscriber to the list and I'm building a -4 using a Chevy >V-6 for motive power. I have the airframe basically completed and am >beginning the engine installation now. It is, like any engineering exercise, >a very interesting project. >I would be interested in hearing from some of the "auto engine" >proponents in >the group. I haven't started (RV6A) yet, but have been planning and saving for the project for about 2 years. Any day now, I'll make an order. I am VERY interested the Chevy V-6. I don't plan on doing any areobatics, mainly cross country. I work in electronics, not mechanical engineering, but I am a diehard Chevrolet fanatic. I own a Corvette, 2 Camaros, and a Chevy truck, so a Chevy powered RV would fit nicely into the growing collection. Please don't let any of the negative comments you'll probably receive discourage you from keeping the rest of us informed of your progress. There seems to be a lot of closed minded people around, including Van's, IMHO. I think some of the older guys, no offense, keep the rest of us scared to bring up the topic. Everytime you do, you're attacked with all the negative comments. I am very hungry for any Chevy V-6 info. you have. Are you using Belted Air Products? Is your engine an all aluminum block? How many cubes? Any hi-perf parts or add-ons? Engine mounts? Anthony K. Self CHEVY_TRUCK(at)MSN.COM RV6A (starting sometime soon) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
From: Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
> > > >Anyone with advice, tips, tricks, or techniques on getting these shirts to >fit, I would love to hear from you. > >Steve White Steve - If its any help, get every thing as close to tolerance & get into fiberglass to seem up. Thats what we did and everything worked out OK. Hope this helps. - Ed. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding
>I recevied today from B&C Specialty a 24 position ground bus. > >The ground bus has blade type connections rather than the screws >that I would have expected. Has anyone ever had a problem with >these losing contact, or coming off? Craig: I used a similar ground bus in my RV-6. I used spade connectors for the ground bus, my fuse block and probably 80% of the other electrical connections. (All of the probes which came with my VM 1000 engine monitor also use spade connections.) I haven't had any problems with connections loosening, and don't expect any in the future. I did have problems getting the connectors apart! They grip tight; a few times I had to resort to pliers to separate them. To get a tight connection, it is imperative that you use a good quality connector. Some of the connectors that you see in the home centers and auto parts stores are next to useless. (See Bob Nuckolls' dissertation on connectors in the AeroElectric Connection.) Mark Nielsen RV-6, flying. 146 hours since April 97. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
I made my canopy skirt out of fiberglass and it fits perfectly. It requires no seal and does not leak any air or water. Jim Cone RV-6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Left elevator
after completing the trailing edge bend on the L/elevator I have a > slight bow where the E606 is. So, when I put a ruler from leading edge > to trailing edge, there is a slight bulge where the E606 is under the > skin. Is this normal, or a problem? I have not drilled the E 606, to Chris, I had the same problem three years ago, and if one looks at finished planes, the bulge is quite evident in most. I split the spar most of its length (didn't need to at the inboard end), and riveted on a doubler. I probably took out about 3/16" or so at the location which corresponds to the outboard end of the trim tab. Enjoy summer down under. Alex Peterson 6A Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
STEVE WHITE wrote: > Van's should let builders of the RV6/6A, with the sliding canopy know -- > That the improper fit of the C-666 rear canopy skirt can cause an > indentation in the firewall. I know, because after my third failed attempt > at getting the skirt to fit that's where I kicked the SON-OF-A- RV6A. > > Anyone with advice, tips, tricks, or techniques on getting these shirts to > fit, I would love to hear from you. > I just made my rear skirt out of fibreglass. Took about an hour to do the layup. Looks like there will be a lot of filling and sanding before I'm done, but the fit is perfect. After hearing all the horror stories, I didn't even try to do it in aluminum. As far as getting shirts to fit, well I'd say it might be time to go on a diet. That's my plan. Works for pants too. :-) Curt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rodwoodard(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 13, 1997
Subject: E.B. procrastination (chatter)
writes: >A friend (let's call him E.B.) is currently in a mental >headlock with himself about his rudder and hasn't built >in two months! Wow. We're thinking of having an >intervention to snap him out of it... Let's go, E.B.!! 3 weeks ago we were at the same stage... Now I'm hoping to have my elevators finished by this weekend... Except I won't because I can't find a few parts. I'll at least get the stiffners riveted on. Was going to go with the tape, but I'm chickening out. Get building or I shall chastise you some more. :-) Rod Woodard Loveland, Colorado RV-8, #80033 [the _second_ slowest RV-8 builder...] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WBWard(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: Re: High Temps
Guys, I've heard a lot of this high oil temp., and vapor locking talk, but most of the conversations seem to have been related ro RV-6's, and -6A's. I haven't heard too much about this same problem in the RV-4's. Is this problem as prevalent in the RV-4, as it seems to be in the RV-6, and -6A? Way back when, in the old round motor days, they used a pretty simple arrangement to dump super heated air from inside the cowling of the radials on the ground. The mechanism was called cowl flaps, and they provided a larger opening for exhausting heated air overboard, when the airplane was being operated on the ground, during engine run-ups, and extended taxi events. They seemed to work well in Yuma, Arizona back in the 60's, and it seemed to me that it got pretty hot down there, from time to time. I am wondering if some enterprising RV builder might be willing to give something like that a shot, just to see if it might eliminate at least a modicum of this problem.?? I have looked at a few drawings and pictures of the cowling, on both the RV-4 and RV-6 aircraft types, and it would seem that the best place to put these things, would be somewhere near the lower aft portion of the cowl, near, and slightly outboard of where the exhaust pipes exit under the fuselage. The cowl flaps, like those back in the "old" airplane days, would be utilized in the full open position on the ground, and closed in flight. It worked way back when. No reason to think it wouldn't work now. Just something to think about. Regards Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM Slave to the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CHRIS.BROWNE(at)bge.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: QB question
For any of the QB'ers out there, how many hours of work is there to do before you have to decide on an engine and order the finishing kit? I am doing the emp, so the rudder will be done. Chris Browne -6A emp shortly, more tools to buy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: charles(at)onramp.net (charles young)
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
Made mine out of fiberglass, great fit. If you can fiberglass the windscreen on, you can do the canopy skirt too. Why the slider versus the tilt up? I think it is personal preferene. I for one, think the slider really adds to the airplanes overall looks. The wind cant catch it when open or partially open, seems more sturdier. And you can taxi around with that elbow hanging out, it is realy cool in more ways than one in the summer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Vortec RV-4
Anthony, just jump in, Your on the right track. N9267Y ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
Ditto. Jim is correct. I did use a U.S. Industrial Metal Shrinker to help the metal fit perfectly. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell writes: > >I made my canopy skirt out of fiberglass and it fits perfectly. It >requires >no seal and does not leak any air or water. > >Jim Cone >RV-6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: "Anderson Ed" <AndersonE(at)bah.com>
Subject: Re: Local DARs???
Thanks Tom, I think I recall hearing Fred a number of years ago at one of the Fredrick RV flying. I will given him a try. Ed ---------- From: Tom Goeddel Subject: Re: RV-List: Local DARs??? Date: Wednesday, November 12, 1997 9:47PM Hi Ed, >I reside in Northern Virginia (Outside Washington D.C.) and aircraft is >stationed at Manassas Regional airport. Does anyone have phone >number/address of DARs in this region?? Would appreciate any points of >contact. There is a fellow named Fred Kacena in Newark, DE that is a DAR that might be able to help you. I haven't used him myself yet, but he gave a talk at our local EAA chapter a few years ago, and at the East Coast RV Forum in Frederick, MD this year. I'm not sure what he charges. The number I have for him is (302) 368-3781. Hope this helps. Tom Goeddel RV-6a (still on the fuse...) tgoeddel(at)monmouth.com | | | ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roth Klaus <Klaus.Roth(at)med.siemens.de>
Subject: WG: Towing gliders
Date: Nov 14, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" > Hello listers,=20 >=20 last Sunday, I towed (is this the correct word ??) a glider 3 times > with my RV-4, D-ERKR. >=20 > The glider was a Astir CS with about 450 kg weight. > I have a Lycoming O-360 and a three blade > CS prop. > In this configuration I got a climb rate of 5 m/s with 25 manifold=20 > and 2500 rpm. (Temperature was 11 =B0C and the airfield is 1600ft = MSL) >=20 > The rope is winded up after separation in flight. I can cut the > rope in emergency cases. > The hole thing is mounted outside on the bottom of the fuselage > and I think I can assemble it within a half an hour. I don't plan > to have it assembled every time > (Yes, I already did a stress test with 500 kg) >=20 > I intend to tow gliders up to 600 kg maximum flight weight. >=20 > The only thing I have to change is the tail wheel. I need to have=20 > a tail wheel which is two inches higher. >=20 Has another guy experiences in towing gliders with a RV ?? > Best regards >=20 > Klaus Roth > Germany >=20 >=20 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Aerobatic Tank Fuel Level Sender
I am at home so I'm not sure on all the names and #'s. Cut the mounting sender plate out of the access plate, you can use this as a temp plate while drilling into your baffle. Then flush rivet it to the inside of the baffle w/nut plates. I also beleave it has a top side to it so make sure don't put it in upside down. Blue skies, Carey Mills ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Light a fire under EB (Chatter)
<< A friend (let's call him E.B.) is currently in a mental headlock with himself about his rudder and hasn't built in two months! Wow. We're thinking of having an intervention to snap him out of it... >> Bring this EB character with you out to LVK any Sunday and we'll jumpstart him upon seeing my 6A with actual paint and some final hardware on it. Planning a January liftoff. He's gotta snap out of it! -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tank Seal
joseph.wiza wrote: > Tested my fuel tanks, it appears the proseal does workso far. I did > incoundter two leaks one at the gasket where the fuel pick up is at (I may > have tightened to much) can I use rtv or some such thing. Joe, Definitely do not use RTV. Gasoline as well as most strong solvents will desolve it. Believe me, I know. I've had to rebuild more than one carburator where some genius used RTV on the carb or intake gaskets.(Can you say vacuum leak, boys & girls?) Charlie Kuss RV8 VS, deburring & dimpling Boca Raton, Fl. s to finishing kit if you already have the empennage completed. At this rate I'll have my quickbuild done in about 5 years :( Rob (RV-6Q). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: RV-ation bookstore now open
Yes, we finally made it, and my thanks to all those who helped us a couple months ago by suggesting titles important to RVers. Our web page is under construction and should be up late next week. See us then at WWW.RVBOOKSTORE.COM Our catalogues are at the printer and should also be mailed late next week to those on our list. Anyone who would like to receive a FREE catalogue, please e-mail us with your name and address. Our inventory is in and on the shelf, and we are NOW READY to ship your order. Here is a listing of items in stock: 16 YEARS OF THE RV-ATOR - $27.95 SPEED WITH ECONOMY - $24.95 VAN'S PROMO VIDEO; THE RV STORY - $10.00 AC 43.13-1A, 2A ACCEPTABLE METHODS OF REPAIR - $18.95 1998 FAR/AIM - $14.95 STANDARD MAINTENANCE HANDBOOK - $10.50 AIRCRAFT WEIGHT & BALANCE - $11.40 KITPLANE CONSTRUCTION - $29.95 AIRCRAFT SYSTEMS FOR PILOTS - $25.95 EAA'S CUSTOM BUILT SPORT AIRCRAFT GUIDE - $14.95 AIRCRAFT SHEET METAL - $18.65 CAM 107 POWERPLANT HANDBOOK - $24.95 AIRCRAFT RECIPROCATING ENGINES - $15.50 LYCOMING 0-320 OPERATOR'S MANUAL - $19.00 LYCOMING 0-360 OPERATOR'S MANUAL - $19.00 TONY BINGELIS SERIES: FIREWALL FORWARD - $21.95 TONY BINGELIS ON ENGINES - $21.95 THE SPORT PLANE BUILDER - $21.95 SPORTPLANE CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES - $21.95 AIRCRAFT PAINING AND FINISHING - $13.45 EAA BASIC AIRCRAFT PAINTING VIDEO - $24.95 AIRCRAFT CORROSION CONTROL - $10.35 EAA CORROSION CONTROL VIDEO - $24.95 AIRCRAFT ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS - $14.50 IGNITION & ELECTRICAL POWER SYSTEMS - $10.35 ELECTRONICS AND RADIO INSTALLATION - $12.45 FLIGHT TESTING HOMEBUILT AIRCRAFT - $19.95 ALAN IN WONDERLAND - THE NIGERIAN RV-6 AIR BEETLE PROJECT - $15.00 GEORGE ORNDORFF VIDEOS: RV SHEET METAL TOOLS VHF-$16.50 PAL-25.50 EMPENNAGE CONSTRUCTION VHF-$36.00 PAL-$46.00 PRE-PUNCHED EMPENNAGE VHF-$36.00 PAL-$46.00 RV-4,6,6A WING CONSTRUCTION VHF-&41.00 PAL-$51.00 RV-8 WINGS VHF-$41.00 PAL-$51.00 FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION VHF-$51.50 PAL-$66.50 FINISHING KIT CONSTRUCTION VHF-$56.50 PAL-$71.50 RV AIRCRAFT SYSTEMS VHF-$41.00 PAL-$51.50 RV-6 INTERIOR VHF-$20.50 PAL-$25.50 RV-6A QUICK BUILD KIT VHF-$56.50 PAL-$71.50 LOG BOOKS PILOT LOG $8.75 ENGINE LOG $5.15 AIRFRAME LOG $5.15 5 ways to order: Mastercard/Visa or check (US funds) 1] by return e-mail 2] e-mail your phone number and we will call you back 3] by phone at 970 887-2207 4] by fax at 970 887-2197 5] by mail at: RV-ation Book Store PO Box 270, Tabernash, CO 80478 Shipping fees: US orders - $3.00 for first item; $1 for each additional item International - We will compute based on weight and destination. Any questions? Please feel free to write or call at 970 887-2207 or winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com Thanks you Andy Gold RV-6A N-5060 (flying) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: E.B. procrastination - MORAL (chatter)
Yea, ok, so I have some good excuses. Won't go into them though, because they don't add up to 7 weeks worth of excuses (close!). BUT, you guys will be happy to know that I was recently so encouraged by 1)Mike Denman leaving me off the chapter newsletter as "Members who are Building" and 2)Mitch, as he was driving us home from the EAA meeting, AT 85 ON A VERY CROWDED HIGHWAY 101, made me swear on my Medical that I'd begin again, or he'd hit the passenger eject seat on his BMW), that guess what... At 2am the next morning, THE RUDDER's DONE! I made up 5 diagonal stiffners, after I determined a new tip rib wouldn't take the oil-canning out, and used Dan Parks 3M tape to put them in. Worked like a charm! Primed the Rudder brace, got out the no-hole yoke I lifted from Mitch (didn't know I had it, did you! ;-) ), and now I already have the stiffners layed out for the elevator! MORAL: There will be times when you will want to set the project aside. If it goes on too long, your friends will kick you in the ass, or publicly humiliate you until you get going again. Especially if you know Mitch (God, I love that guy!)! BUT THAT'S OK! It will get done, someday. I take solice in the famous Mike Denman quote - " When a tough step rears its ugly head, just remember, once you finish it, YOU'LL NEVER HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN!" EB #80131 elevators (really!) San Mateo, CA > writes: >>A friend (let's call him E.B.) is currently in a mental >>headlock with himself about his rudder and hasn't built >>in two months! Wow. We're thinking of having an >>intervention to snap him out of it... >Let's go, E.B.!! 3 weeks ago we were at the same stage... Now I'm >hoping to have my elevators finished by this weekend... Except I won't >because I can't find a few parts. I'll at least get the stiffners >riveted on. Was going to go with the tape, but I'm chickening out. >Get building or I shall chastise you some more. :-) >Rod Woodard >Loveland, Colorado >RV-8, #80033 >[the _second_ slowest RV-8 builder...] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com>
Subject: Visit Colorado Projects?
Date: Nov 14, 1997
I'm in Colorado from now until November 21, and I'm looking for RV projects to visit. I'm in Fort Collins until the weekend, then I'm going down to CSprings. Reply to me directly to keep the chatter down. Tedd McHenry tedd(at)idacom.hp.com Surrey, BC (RV-6 tail) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuselage jig needed in DENVER area
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Two years after my move from the ST. Louis area I now need a 6/6A jig. Anybody in the Front Range area knows of a jig I can use please give me a call or e-mail. Thanks, Safe and happy landings -ALWAYS! Lothar* K.|| Denver, CO || (303) 922-2329 || istalling airlines in FLIGHTSHED (~carriagehouse)|| loocking for RV- 6 JIG ||| *(pron'd: "low-TARR") ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Subject: Filling and Bleeding Brake Lines
This is in response to the question from RVATOR97(at)aol.com. A local A&P suggested the following method for filling the brake system. I used it, and it worked like a charm. 1. Procure an oil can (the kind with the thumb activated pump) from your local hardware store, and fill it with red hydraulic oil. (Don't even think of using automotive brake fluid. It will ruin your brakes.) 2. Attach a plastic tube between the oil can and the brake bleed valve at one wheel. I used safety wire to secure the tubing. 3. Attach a plastic tube between the fluid reservoir (The one mounted on your firewall) and an empty container. I removed the breather cap and screwed in a AN816-2D tube nipple. I slipped a piece of plastic tubing over the other end of the nipple. 4. Open the bleeder valve, then pump away on the oil can until the fluid comes out the top of your fluid reservoir. (If necessary, and if you are careful, you can refill the oil can as required without introducing air into the system.) Close the bleeder valve before removing the plastic tubing. This will prevent air from getting in the system. 5. Repeat step 4 for the brake on the other wheel. Continue pumping until all the air bubbles are gone. When I filled my system, I had a few bubbles in the passenger side brake system. I alternated between pumping the brakes and pumping more oil through the system with the oil can. This cleared the bubbles without too much effort. Mark Nielsen RV-6, flying. 146 hours since APR 97. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
Subject: WING INCIDENCE ANGLE
MARC DEGIROLAMO - SINCE NO ONE ELSE IS ANSWERING YOUR QUESTION I LOOKED IN THE "16 YEAR OF RVATOR" FOUND ARTICLE WRITTEN BY VAN DATED 6/93 VERIFING WHAT YOU ARE DOING IS CORRECT, COULD FAX A COPY IF YOU NEED IT IF YOU CONTACT ME OFF LIST WAYNE BONESTEEL RV-4 CLOSING WINGS wayneb(at)oakweb.com Marc DeGirolamo wrote: > > > I have the wing bolted into the fuse for the all important task of drilling > 1/2 deg positive (up) and the Horiz Stab should be 0 deg of incidence. kit work and have not needed to decide on an engine. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM Pacer N8025D RV-6QME N441LP Reserved Rebuilding rudder stops to eliminate interference Redrilling rudder cable holes next, to eliminate interference ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: RV Aerobatics
With these discussions on aerobatic fuel stuff, I would like to know if there is some basic guidelines on what has to be done in order to make a -6A proficient at aerobatics. Is it just a fuel issue for inverted flight, or are there other things that should be done? thanks.. Paul Besing RV-6A QB (still waiting on kit) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: E.B. procrastination - MORAL (chatter)
Eric, Let's revisit this statement after you have finished your first rivet job using pro seal! Having to face a second fuel tank may drive you over the edge. Recommend you do both tanks at the same time when you get to that point. Mike Wills RV-4(wings done!; saving pennies for the fuse kit) willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil >Mike Denman quote - " When a tough step rears its ugly head, just >remember, once you finish it, YOU'LL NEVER HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN!" > >EB #80131 elevators (really!) >San Mateo, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: 3M Tape for Stiffners
From: rodwoodard(at)juno.com (Rodney W. Woodard)
I know I just posted a note where I said I decided to just go with rivets for my stiffners... Well, I've changed my mind again. This time, however, I spent a little money, so the decision's final. I was able to find the 3M VHB 4930 1/2" wide x 25 mil thick tape at a supplier in Denver. The price was $73.25 for a 72 yard roll, plus shipping and tax. The name of the company is R. Sam Hughes. Their number is 303-371-9440. He said they had the tape in stock and it would ship to me today. All goes well, and I'll have it on Monday. Plugging away... slowly. Rod Woodard Loveland, Colorado RV-8, #80033 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: "Charles H. Ennis" <105523.2542(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: QB question
Re: how many hrs.??? Cris, I have almost exactly 1000 hrs. working on a 6A and I am in the process of riviting the first (bottom) skins on the fuselage. Wings, empenage and control surfaces are done. I figure I'll be ordering the finishing kit in another 100 hrs.or less. Seems to me Van is about right with his 2000 hour estimate for total time. Charlie Ennis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: High Temps
Date: Nov 14, 1997
There is an RV that was built in GA that has a cowl flap installed. I spoke with the builder about it (last year) and I **think** he said that he ended up not needing it. I am not sure as to whether it was just not needed or was not as effective as he thought it would be. The work looked really nice and clean. If someone REALLY needs info on this, I can try to track the individual down. Since I have not spoken with him about this and since I am not sure if he subscribes to the list,I will not give out his name (respect for privacy). If you need to, feel free to contact me off list and I will try to make the contact. James RV6AQ ...wings ... this weekend?? ---------- > From: aol.com!WBWard(at)matronics.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: High Temps <<>> > on the ground. The mechanism was called cowl flaps, and they provided a > larger opening for exhausting heated air overboard, when the airplane was > being operated on the ground, during engine run-ups, and extended taxi > events. They seemed to work well in Yuma, Arizona back in the 60's, and it > seemed to me that it got pretty hot down there, from time to time. > > I am wondering if some enterprising RV builder might be willing to give > something like that a shot, just to see if it might eliminate at least a > modicum of this problem.?? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Re: QB question
5 years to do the finish kit? How often do you work on your plane? Paul > >> For any of the QB'ers out there, how many hours of work is there >> to do before you have to decide on an engine and order the >> finishing kit? I am doing the emp, so the rudder will be done. >> Chris Browne >> -6A emp shortly, more tools to buy > >Chris, >I am 330 hours into my QB, and guesstimate I have about 50-80 hours to go >before I start on "finishing kit" items. It took me 80 hours to complete >the empennage (lots of elevator rework, conversion from manual to electric >trim). > >So, that's about 300-330 hours to finishing kit if you already have the >empennage completed. At this rate I'll have my quickbuild done in about 5 >years :( > >Rob (RV-6Q). > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: High Temps
Date: Nov 14, 1997
I know that Jess Myers, in Vegas, has this feature in his 6A. Several things have been tried by various builders. A 4 place 6A. One with air brakes under the fuselage. Another has retrac's. Several have auto conversions. I've not heard of any with a BRS. Nor have I heard of one that will jettison the fuel tanks just before hitting something solid. But then . . . Give us time Cecil Hatfield writes: ? > >Way back when, in the old round motor days, they used a pretty simple >arrangement to dump super heated air from inside the cowling of the >radials >on the ground. The mechanism was called cowl flaps, and they provided >a >larger opening for exhausting heated air overboard, when the airplane >was >being operated on the ground, during engine run-ups, and extended taxi >events. > >I am wondering if some enterprising RV builder might be willing to >give >something like that a shot, just to see if it might eliminate at least >a >modicum of this problem.?? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)startext.net>
Subject: Procrastination
I procrastinated and almost forgot to mail my contribution for list support to: List Support Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94550 I wrote a check today and will mail tomorrow. If you haven't written and mailed your check yet, now is a good time. I get more from the RV-List than from any magazine subscription, don't you? Thank you, Matt. Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX RV-6A Trimming the tilt canopy and writing notes for my next RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RBusick505(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
<> How did you attach it to the canopy? Bob Busick RV-6 Fremont CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: High Temps
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Vapor lock type problems can happen in any model depending on the fuel system design/installation. RV-4's in general have lower CHT and oil temps than do RV-6(A)'s. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: TCOlson <tcolson@Cedar-Rapids.Net>
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
Steve, we have recently done 3 RV6's with sliders in my area. the rear canopy bow on all of them was a little longer on the left side. One cut out about 1/4 of an inch on the left bow and welded it back together. The other two of us lowered the mounting height of the rear lock pin on the left side about a 1/4 inch below the height on the right. If you take the later approach plan to also raise the right front bow at the bottom with a spacer and mabey also remove some from the bottom of the left front bow. This will help the left rear fit if it appears high versus what you are getting on the right side. Good luck Tom Olson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV Aerobatics
>... to make a -6A >proficient at aerobatics. Is it just a fuel issue for inverted flight, or >are there other things that should be done? My vote would be an inverted oil system then the inverted fuel/injection. If the engine continues to make power upside down you'll want that oil pressure up. Mike McGee sn23530 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UHMW tape
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 14, 1997
Thought I would pass this along as a general tip. I really like this UMHW tape. It is great for abrasion protection in lots of places on RV's. Particularly with things that wont end up showing as a problem until the airplane is a few years old and things made of aluminum that rub on other things made of aluminum or who knows what. We used it on a lot of things on the new YELLOW RV-8. Here is a few that I can think of. - along the bottom edge of the canopy skirts where they overlap the sides of the fuselage. - along the bottom trailing edge of the top wing skin where the flap intersection skin seal rubs (then you don't have to use the stainless steel tape [which is ugly IMHO]) - on the forward seat back were it touches (rubs) on the forward seat back brace. - used a lot of it on the baffling. anywhere that baffle parts slip together between cylinders, and used it anywhere that the baffle contacts the cylinder itself. After a few years the thin cyl fins will start wearing grooves in the baffle if its not protected. - we put some on the portions of the gear leg fairings that are under the intersection fairing molded on the wheel pant and under the root fairing at the top of the gear leg which will prevent wear of the fairing from the gear leg shaking around during ground ops. The tape seems to hold up well to high temperatures, even in contact with the cylinder fins. I really don't know what the long term durability is. I think the only portion that might be effected by heat is the adhesive that sticks it in place. The yellow RV-8 is over 300 hours already (in just 8 months) and we haven't seen any problems with the tape yet. Even if you didn't us it in the engine compartment I think you would find it very useful in many other places. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Holes in my Confidence
Date: Nov 14, 1997
From: "William H. Watson" <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net>
Folks, What do you think about this? I have drilled some "extra" holes (#40) in rib flanges in a few places. In cases where the intended hole is well spaced away, I have ignored the extra hole and riveted the part together with the correct hole. I a couple of places (don't ask me to confess my full stupidity of how this happened) I have some extra holes under the pre-punched skin. I plan to put a rivet through the prepunched hole into the new (correct) hole. If the correct hole is too close to the extra hole, I will put in the rivet, but add another rivet (between pre-punched holes) to make sure I have the strength. Will this fly (pun intended)? Thanks William H. Watson wmwatson(at)earthlink.net H: 415 254-1656 W: 408 553-4225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
I wrote, " can get loose or pulled off over time" not WILL get loose or pulled of over time. Working as an A&P doing a lot of avionics work in the past I have found lots of noise/ground loop problems caused by these type of connectors. I didn't say don't use them, I just mentioned that from my experience I prefer not to. (BTW I think all of us that have ever owned or done maint. on Cessna aircraft know that just because cessna did it on there airplanes doesn't mean its the best/only way (I 'm not talking specifically electrical items). I have never had an alternator C.B. trip open nor have of ever heard of anyone else mentioning it, but if what you say is true then an alternate installation might be a good idea. Yes Bob, I know what it describes, that's why I mentioned a way to do the same type of protection IF you are using the more inexpensive toggle switches instead of the split rocker switch. I wasn't at all advocating using it. And if you want to talk about expensive, seems to me those pullable breakers are a little on the pricy side compared to the standard type. (but maybe not any more than the combined cost of a breaker and a switch). Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV Aerobatics
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
An RV-6A is proficient at aerobatics without inverted fuel or oil systems. It is more dependant on how you do maneuvers and/or how you want to do maneuvers. Without inverted fuel and oil all maneuvers must be done with positives G's (which often can even mean as little as 1/4 to 1/2 of a G depending on the maneuver). example: a true hammer head usually requires a period of time near 0 G's but by cheating it just a little you can stay slightly positive and everything works normally (it only takes a small amount of positiveG's to keep the oil and fuel {and you} in the proper place). So it all depends on how far you want to go with aerobatics. If outside loops and humptybumps are your thing or hanging upside down in the straps for minutes at a time then go with inverted fuel and oil. Otherwise save on the money and weight because there is still loads of maneuvers you can do. The just may not look quite perfect, but only a competition judge could tell. BTW I have over 600 hrs. of RV time and I don't feel like I'm proficient in even 1/3 of the maneuvers that an RV can do without inverted systems. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: "Steven Janicki" <SJANICKI(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: RV6 For Sale
boundary="=_ORCL_15865696_0r0" --=_ORCL_15865696_0r0 I recently purchased an RV6 that I am reluctantly putting up for sale due to a difference of opinion with my wife. If you are interested please visit http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/2186/ for specifications and send me an email directly for further details. Regards, Steve ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation. When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Steven B. Janicki Director ORACLE Data Center --=_ORCL_15865696_0r0 BAMAAKAFAABMWkZ1Hhn64P8ACgEPAhUCpAPkBesCgwBQEwNUAgBjaArAc2V07jIGAAbDAoMy BEcIVQey7QKDMxMPFBN9CoAIzwnZ4jsW0jI1NRcsFgENosELYG5nMTAzFJALA/BsaTE4DfAF EBrCC1WBFJFzMTcgSSAW4IJjCfB0bHkgcAhwExGxEfBkIAORUlY2nCB0EcAFQBxAYW0cUT0K QGMBkBylAkALgGcgWHVwIAIQBcBzB0Bl7CBkClAd8G8dgCCQBpCOZgSQCfAcgCBvZiHQanAL gGkCICAD8B4AIM5tHNAD8CFgLiAcMCHwrnkIYB2AFuAgC4B0IXEucyRQHXALUGUdQSB2EwQA IqAgaAJAcDovBC93JiAuZ2VvYxMioAiQcy4FoG0vQ4hhcGUnQG5hdgSQmQdAL0gZ0QrALzIa wBw2LyAEJ2AmkGZpY/8eICJRBCAAcB1wEfAqMQeA/R2CZQDAAxEhMBxhHLIgEv5mCHAeABPh DbABkAMQJuAlCoUgCoVSZShRZHPuLCNgLbYuuFMkUCfALr/9CsEtMY8ynzOvNL81VzBn7wyC NuQtpzb4VCyAIEABkD8kUAeAAjAqBCIVBCBleH5wJHEdUiyBKsEkASLhb153A6AqIjefNyBk IPBu+m8FQG4ccQQQCsADEBzQbxbgOqIckR3xbyUhIeFPzSfgYyBxCFBycAWwKbP3I1EwWQqF VyyAA6ACICGxPyOyEcAwIQGQJJMZsGln3yWwLqEKhSOyA/BsAyAgEeswEQXAdwdAax3xIIAl AE8sYSKEI7EFwGV5B5F05whwPgAqQWt5RhALIERo9yASLHJC6WIJ4S6gKiJJuPdFQwdARhB5 BCAWcB+xIOH/FuBH8iNRLU1On0+vUFg2QV5MJnAnoAsgIPBEIRBW/wuAJpBNr1OvVL9VRi+K A6DaQiNQSgBwKZBrAKA3BztYLVYKRCuDBbEKhU9S8EFDTEVSEQGQE4Ackf8T4VxPVfteL18/ YE9dP2HfX2LsUr4KhWVsFgEAZvA= --=_ORCL_15865696_0r0 I recently purchased an RV6 that I am reluctantly putting up for sale due to a difference of opinion with my wife. If you are interested please visit http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/2186/ for specifications and send me an email directly for further details.

Regards,

Steve

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.

When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

 -- Leonardo Da Vinci


Steven B. Janicki
Director
ORACLE Data Center





--=_ORCL_15865696_0r0-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com>
Subject: Re: RV Aerobatics
> >With these discussions on aerobatic fuel stuff, I would like to know if >there is some basic guidelines on what has to be done in order to make a -6A >proficient at aerobatics. All stock RVs' are very proficient at aerobatics. It is the pilots that we need to work on. Unless you are a competition calibre pilot built it as Van suggests Tom Martin RV4 the RaVen, sold, the next one flying in the spring! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: QB question
Date: Nov 15, 1997
>Re: how many hrs.??? > Cris, > I have almost exactly 1000 hrs. working on a 6A and I am in the >process of riviting the first (bottom) skins on the fuselage. Wings, >empenage and control surfaces are done. I figure I'll be ordering the >finishing kit in another 100 hrs.or less. Seems to me Van is about right >with his 2000 hour estimate for total time. >Charlie Ennis Hmmm. I guess that depends on how old your kit is. Mine is one of the older ones that didn't have much done for me. So far, I've got about 2000 hours in mine and am just putting on the top skins of the fuselage. That doesn't include about 400 hours of misc. running/getting/head scratching time. I hope to get mine done in about 2700-2800 hours. That equates to about mid-1998. :-) ________________________________________________________________________________ cut that time by quite a lot. The only improvement I've gotten before the last kit has been the prepunched firewall. What with the quality of that, I almost wished they had left the drilling of the angle stock to me! They were crooked! Jim Sears RV-6A #22220 AA5A Cheetah N26276 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Nandang Jasin <nandang(at)ibm.net>
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
Steven Janicki wrote: > > I recently purchased an RV6 that I am reluctantly putting up for sale due to > a difference of opinion with my wife. If you are interested please visit > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/2186/ for specifications and > send me an email directly for further details. > > Regards, > > Steve > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and > do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation. > > When once you have tasted flight, > you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, > for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. > > -- Leonardo Da Vinci > > > Steven B. Janicki > Director > ORACLE Data Center > > > > > > > The Cost? Thanks & Regards NANDANG JASIN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: E.B. procrastination - MORAL (chatter)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
>BUT THAT'S OK! It will get done, someday. I take solice in the >famous Mike Denman quote - " When a tough step rears its ugly >head, just remember, once you finish it, YOU'LL NEVER HAVE TO >DO IT AGAIN!" Unless you're crazy enough to build another one. :-) Jim Sears RV-6A #22220 (getting close to making airplane noises) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: Vortec RV-4
<< Are you using Belted Air Products? Is your engine an all aluminum block? t's not an alumnum block but I did find a set of 1st design aluminum heads (actually 4 sets but I sold 3) << How many cubes?>> It's 4.3 liters (262 ci) with .030 overbore I think that works out to 265 ci <> II bought a runout from my local boneyard for a song, and had my friend Dave Weber (top alcohol dragster) balance and blueprint the short block. I had Don Rivera from Airflow Performance build me a fuel injection setup (Sean Tucker also uses AP fuel injection). and I bought a dual ignition setup from Jeff Rose (Electroair). I'm using the GM factory marine cam, and of course the stock roller lifters. The only change to the bottom end was forged pistons, and of course magnaflux inspection of everytthing. <> I'm just staring the engine installation as we speak and it's going to be an exercize in "efficient use of available space". The -4 has a much smaller engine compartment than the -6 and it's going to be interesting to see if I can use the stock cowl ( I'd like to if at all possible) I'll keep you posted ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: RV Aerobatics
Date: Nov 11, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" > >With these discussions on aerobatic fuel stuff, I would like to know if >there is some basic guidelines on what has to be done in order to make a -6A >proficient at aerobatics. Is it just a fuel issue for inverted flight, or >are there other things that should be done? At the risk of restating the obvious, if you don't have fuel injection, inverted oil and fuel are a waste of effort. Unless you enjoy negative Gs, most people don't, you can do more acro than most people care to and keep all the dirt on the floor. (no inverted systems at all) If you are going to go the distance you need 5pt harness, all seat cushions need to mechanically secured. A high quality G-meter (several are not), and an RG battery. The most important acro accessory in any airplane is good judgement. Tailwinds, RV-4 N240 Doug Rozendaal ATP CFI MEI dougr(at)petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UHMW tape
<19971113.020650.4567.3.SMCDANIELS(at)juno.com>
From: whays(at)juno.com (Wes Hays)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Sorry I missed the original post on this, but where do you get it? Wes Hays RV6-A (Fuselage Skeleton) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: Holes in my Confidence
Let he who is without a figure eight hole in his RV speak first. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
Get rid of the wife and keep the SIX. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net>
Subject: Has anybody seen the stretched RV-6+ modified by Dalton & Nys
? Looking through kitplanes Nov 1997 issue I saw a picture of an RV-6 that was stretched / modified by a Bart Dalton and John Nys. Does anybody know how to contact these guys ? Has anybody seen this plane up close ? I am trying to figure out what to build next .... still thinking about the RV8A. Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com RV6A flying 345RV 70 hrs TT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: High Temps
>The mechanism was called cowl flaps, and they provided a >larger opening for exhausting heated air overboard......... Go back to the May, 1994 Sport Aviation and read Dean Hall's excellent article on his RV-4. He installed a cowel flap and, as I recall talking to him, he says it helps while climbing but not on the ground, which is where it would be most helpful. Seems like he said he may not do it again, given the choice. I think he is on The List, too, but I don't know his address. Keep building............. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: emcole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Holes in my Confidence
William H. Watson wrote: > > > Folks, > > What do you think about this? I have drilled some "extra" holes (#40) in > rib flanges in a few places. In cases where the intended hole is well > spaced away, I have ignored the extra hole and riveted the part together > with the correct hole. > > I a couple of places (don't ask me to confess my full stupidity of how > this happened) I have some extra holes under the pre-punched skin. I > plan to put a rivet through the prepunched hole into the new (correct) > hole. If the correct hole is too close to the extra hole, I will put in > the rivet, but add another rivet (between pre-punched holes) to make sure > I have the strength. Will this fly (pun intended)? > > Thanks > > William H. Watson > wmwatson(at)earthlink.net > H: 415 254-1656 > W: 408 553-4225 > Bill, If the holes are to close together, you can always double the area with a small piece of aluminum. Of course, I've only heard about this and never had to do it! :^) Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage---200 HP IO360 on it's way !! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: emcole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV-ation bookstore now open
rkymtnhi.com!winterland(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > Yes, we finally made it, and my thanks to all those who helped us a > couple months ago by suggesting titles important to RVers. > > Our web page is under construction and should be up late next week. > See us then at WWW.RVBOOKSTORE.COM > > Our catalogues are at the printer and should also be mailed late next > week to those on our list. Anyone who would like to receive a FREE > catalogue, please e-mail us with your name and address. > > Our inventory is in and on the shelf, and we are NOW READY to ship your > order. Here is a listing of items in stock: > >> > Thanks you > Andy Gold > RV-6A N-5060 (flying) > Andy, I look forward to ordering from you, but you might want to make those videos "VHS" instaed of "VHF" :^) ED COLE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: QB question
I would say that the airframe is only about 65% of the building time. Once the airframe is complete, installation of the sytems, (radios, engine, instruments) and painting is a lot more time consuming than most people think. How about a response from some "flyers", anybody comment ? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: RV-ation bookstore now open
> Andy, > I look forward to ordering from you, but you might want to make those > videos "VHS" instaed of "VHF" :^) > > ED COLE YES, YES, you're right. My mistake. There is no such thing as a VHF tape. Actually, you are the 6th person to correct me on this so far. I suppose I've been daydreaming too much about flying my 6A, when I should have been concentrating on work. I also suppose I'm not the only one on this list who suffers from this affliction, or at least, who soon will. Anyway, send me your address, and I'll put you down for a catalogue when they get finished next week. Andy RV-ation Bookstore ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: QB question
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
I have built a few RV's to completion now, and the build time has gotten shorter with each one. The first one (an RV-6A w/slider that I still own [and have for sale]) took about 2300 hours to complete ready to fly with paint that I did my self (this was not a BASIC VFR equipped RV, I'm sure other builder/fliers can comment on how much time some of the seemingly simple extras or modifications can take). When it was completed to the same point that customers receive a quick build I was at between 1000 and 1100 hours. This was using one of the very early kits (prepunch nothing). So "cutting build time in half" as advertised is pretty close for an average of all builders because an over all average for an RV basically equipped is about 2000 hrs. Another factor to figure with a quick build is that there is a very steep learning curve diving in to the project at the point it is supplied. Someone building from a regular kit has 2 or 3 years of experience by the time they get to that point Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: Vortec RV-4
If anyone is interested, the part numbers for the aluminum heads I am using is 14011056. These heads are no longer in production, but I was able to find a new set. These heads are actually made for the earlier 229 C.I. V-6 but the reason I wanted to use them is because they have the smaller valves, more suited to the RPM range I''ll be running my engine. Also the part number for the cam is 10134321. It's listed in the "GM Performance Parts" catalog, available from any Chevy dealer. If you are considering doing ANY GM conversion for aircraft, this book is indispensable. The most important thing about doing a conversion IMHO, is to match all the components for the intended purpose. These engines are bulletproof, when the proper parts are properly assembled. Also in the interest of depenbability I used the pushrod guide plates the stock roller rockers and the stock compression ratio forged pistons. If there are any more questions please feel free to ask away ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent)
Subject: water-based epoxy primer.
My Sherwyn Williams store showed me info on a "water based catalyzed epoxy primer" for aluminum, steel, and galvanized steel. I checked the archives but found no reference to it, so excuse me if this has been discussed before. The stuff looks interesting. It's not an isocyanate and the hazards sheet makes it sound fairly benign as these things go. It is an epoxy and so forms a real moisture barrier. Water soluable sounds great. Pot life is 12 hours. On the minus side it's expensive ($50/gal). It has a "sweat in" time of 1/2 to 1 hour. (I gather that's letting it sit after mixing it?) Of course, if it was really terrific, I assume everybody would already be using it. So, what am I missing here? Has anyone used this stuff or has anyone considered it and rejected it for some reason? Thanks, --- Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: QB question
<19971113.155403.4823.0.SMCDANIELS(at)juno.com>
From: donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Scott: I am needing to order my 6A kit preaty quick. What is the current kit situation? I am not talking about the Quick build. What is Pre punched if any? What should I order with it? Dual brakes, ventalation, tip up, What would the differance be for a quick build? >>>>RV-6A w/slider that I still own [and have for sale])<<<< Please send information for my partner on your plane. What did you prime ( the outside skin with?) & what type of paint did you use or you would recommend? Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-ation bookstore now open
From: donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Please send catolog to: Don Jordan 111 N. Main st. Mansfield, Texas 76063 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Scotch Bright polishing wheels
Hello builders; I have for sale a limited quanity of 3M brand scotch bright polishing wheels at a good price. I have 3 different types described by 3M as: # 7A VFN Cut and Polish #7S FN light deburring wheel #6S VFN general purpose All give an extremely smooth finish and a natural radius on the parts. No filing is necessary after sanding on a belt sander. The wheels are 12 inch diameter and 3 inches thick. They have a 5 inch bore. I machined an adapter to fit them on a 1/2 HP motor. I saved tons of time on the construction and have all very smooth parts throughout the airplane. Price is $ 35.00 each plus freight. Freight to the west coast is $ 7.00 and less in the midwest. If interested, email me direct. Also, did anyone see me demonstrating my canopy latch design on the Oshkosh video on TV? John Kitz N721JK 186 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Has anybody seen the stretched RV-6+ modified by
Dalton & Nys ? Scott, I saw this plane at MERFI and it was done quite nicely. At first they were going to make a clipped wing RV-6 but then decided to strech it into a four place. So when you look at the wing it looks a little strange because it has shortened ailerons. I have a paper around here somewhere with the addresses. I'll see if I can dig it up. They recommend that NO aerobatics be performed in this aircraft. Mail me privately if you want more info. Al > >Looking through kitplanes Nov 1997 issue I saw a picture of an RV-6 that was >stretched / modified by a Bart Dalton and John Nys. Does anybody know how to >contact these guys ? Has anybody seen this plane up close ? I am trying to >figure out what to build next .... still thinking about the RV8A. > > >Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com >RV6A flying 345RV 70 hrs TT > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net>
Subject: NAS Bolts
Do the close tolerance wing bolts get torqued to the same value as the corresponding size AN bolts. -- Chet Razer crazer(at)egyptian.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: "Eric O. Caldwell" <cirenewo(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Has anybody seen the stretched RV-6+ modified by Dalton &
Nys ? Scott Johnson wrote: > > > Looking through kitplanes Nov 1997 issue I saw a picture of an RV-6 that was > stretched / modified by a Bart Dalton and John Nys. Does anybody know how to > contact these guys ? Has anybody seen this plane up close ? I am trying to > figure out what to build next .... still thinking about the RV8A. The RV-6+ was at the Southwest Regional Fly-in at Kerrville TX last month and I picked up a flier on it. Here is a summary of the details. IO540 Lycoming 14" more baggage room 68 gallons of fuel They also provide the following items for building the RV-6+ Drawings and info packet on how to perform the modifications Engine mount Gear legs Axel attachments for 6.00/6 wheels and tires (or 5.00/5) Engine exhaust Canopy They can be reached at: P.O. Box 205 Owasso, OK 74055 (918) 272-8551 or 272-2504 Eric O. Caldwell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Streamlined faring Wing to Fuselage
Recently I was in Oswego County at a fly-in and saw a couple of aircraft with these farings that are like the ( curved style. I was told by one individual that a person in Florida made them. Does anyone on here know the man's name or any other source that I may obtain them from? I recently retiered with 31 years from Delta Airlines and bought this RV-6 Quick Build kit last December and have been going great guns on it all this year. As it looks right now a Spring launch is not out of the question. I purchased everything I needed to build this airplane, so that I would not be delayed at anytime for lack of parts. It will be equipt as a partial IFR aircraft with an O-360 and constant speed prop. I have spared no expense in building this airplane, as it has been a dream I've always had since a boy. My background is heavy in tail draggers and I'm a CFI. If I can help anyone in my area for a check out in an RV give me a holler. I live in NH. My son is an A&P and has been working with me on the RV and If I can help anyone with their quickbuild let me know and I'll do our best. I have been reading a lot of the messages on this LIST and I thought that I would offer my help and experience for what it's worth to anyone interested. If I don't know the answer I'll tell you. Happy Building Don Champagne RV-6 (N767DC) reserved Installing engine/Instrument panel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV Annual Inspection Form
Date: Nov 15, 1997
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0070_01BCF1E9.3F3F0560" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BCF1E9.3F3F0560 charset="iso-8859-1" Fellow Listers: I have a local RV builder that would like me to make an inquiry. Does = anyone have a source of a complete annual inspection checklist for RV = aircraft? (specifically an RV-6A). Seems to me I have seen reference = such a checklist somewhere but I don't recall if it was a someone's = website or on the RV List. Your assistance would be appreciated. Many Thanks, Doug, MN Wing ******************************************* Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI=20 715-386-1239 =20 email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BCF1E9.3F3F0560 charset="iso-8859-1"
Fellow Listers:

I have a local RV builder that would = like me to=20 make an inquiry. Does anyone have a source of a complete annual = inspection=20 checklist for RV aircraft? (specifically an = RV-6A). =20 Seems to me I have seen reference such a checklist somewhere but I don't = recall=20 if it was a someone's website or on the RV List. Your assistance = would be=20 appreciated.

Many Thanks,

Doug, MN Wing

*******************************************
Doug Weiler, = Hudson, WI=20
715-386-1239 &nb= sp; &nbs= p; =20
email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com= =20
------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BCF1E9.3F3F0560-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Sealing canopy
Mark, At G.I. Joes, I found some Elmer's Squeez-N-Caulk (siliconized acrylic latex, 20 year warranty) which dries clear, takes paint, etc. Comes in 7 5/8 FL OZ squeeze bottle. Don't know if this is the same stuff you're using or not but sounds very similar except for life of product. Who makes the stuff in the yellow tubes with 50 years on it and where do you find it? Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA << I am getting close to riveting the side skins to my RV-4 canopy, and would like some input from the list. What have others used to seal the skin-plexi joint from water leaking in? You will need a sealer that won't attack the plexi, but will still take paint. This rules out an awful lot of sealers (pure silicone, and automotive style sealers). We use the stuff in the yellow tubes with the real big letters "50 YEARS" on it. This stuff is siliconized latex, and will take paint, and won't attack the plexi. We use the grey color, as it closely matches the grey we use to paint the cabin area. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: RV Annual Inspection Form
>I have a local RV builder that would like me to make an inquiry. Does anyone have a source of a complete annual inspection checklist for RV aircraft? (specifically an >Doug, MN Wing Doug, Maybe the one of following will be usefull to you. Bob Skinner RV-6 386 hrs Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ******* INSPECTION REPORT Type of Inspection __________________ OWNER: _________________________ DATE: _________ MAKE: _________ HOURS: _________ "N" #: _________ SER. #: _________ DESCRIPTION A. PROPELLER GROUP 1.______ Inspect spinner and back plate 2.______ Inspect blades for nicks and cracks 3.______ Check for grease and oil leaks 4.______ Lubricate propeller per lubrication chart 5.______ Check spinner mounting brackets 6.______ Check propeller mounting bolts and safety 7.______ Inspect hub parts for cracks and corrosion B. ENGINE GROUP CAUTION: ground mags before working on engine 1.______ Remove engine cowl 2.______ Clean and check cowling for cracks, distortion and loose or missing fasteners 3.______ Drain oil sump 4.______ Clean suction oil strainer at oil change 5.______ Clean pressure oil strainer or change full flow oil filter element 6.______ Check oil temp. sender for leaks and security 7.______ Check oil lines and fittings for leaks, chafing, security, dents and cracks 8.______ Clean and check oil radiator cooling fins 9.______ Fill engine with oil per lubrication chart 10._____ Clean engine 11._____ Check condition of spark plugs, adjust gap to:______ clean, test, rotate 12._____ Check ignition harness and insulators 13._____ Check magneto points for proper clearance maintain at .018 +- .006 14._____ Check magneto for oil seal leaks 15._____ Check breaker felt for proper lubrication 16._____ Check distributor block for cracks, burned areas or corrosion 17._____ Check magnetos to engine timing Left______ Right _______ 18._____ Remove air filter and clean 19._____ Drain carburetor and clean inlet line fuel strainer 20._____ Check condition of carburetor heat air door and box 21._____ Check intake seal for leaks and clamps for tightness 22._____ Clean fuel screens 23._____ Clean and check gasolator 24._____ Inspect condition of fuel lines 25._____ Check fuel system for leaks 26._____ Check electric fuel pump for operation 27._____ Check engine controls throttle, carb heat, mixture, and prop 28._____ Inspect exhaust stacks, connections, gaskets 29._____ Inspect heat exchange, baffles and shrouds 30._____ Check breather tube for obstructions and security 31._____ Check crankcase for cracks, leaks, security of bolts 32._____ Check engine mounts for cracks and loose mountings 33._____ Check all engine baffles 34._____ Check firewall seals 36._____ Check condition and tension of alternator and drive belt 36._____ Check condition of starter 37._____ Check fluid in brake reservoir 38._____ Lubricate all controls 39._____ Inspect engine for general condition, loose parts, chafing, proper safties and proper installation 40._____ Check condition of alternator 41._____ Check vacuum pump and lines 42._____ Compression check #1______ #2______ #3 ______ #4 ______ #5 ______ #6 ______ 43._____ Grease starter gear with moly 44._____ Reinstall engine cowl C. CABIN GROUP 1._____ Inspect canopy and windows 2._____ Check upholstery for tear 3._____ Check seats, seat belts, shoulder straps 4._____ Check trim operation 5._____ Check rudder pedals 6._____ Check control column, systems and connection 7._____ Check landing, nav, cabin, and instrument lights 8._____ Check instrument, lines and attachments 9._____ Check gyro operation, and electric turn and bank 10.____ Check or replace gyro air filter 11.____ Clean or replace vacuum regulator filter 12.____ Check altimeter 13.____ Check operation of fuel selector valve 14.____ Check operation of engine primer 15.____ Check condition of heater controls 16.____ Check condition and operation air vents 17.____ Check flap operation 18.____ Check fuel drains 19.____ Lubricate aileron, flap and elevator controls 20.____ Check general condition uder panel for loose wires, chafing, etc. 21.____ Check brake cylinders for operation and leaks D. FUSELAGE AND EMPENNAGE GROUP 1._____ Remove inspection plates and panels 2._____ Check battery box, battery and cables 3._____ Check electronic installations 4._____ Check bulkheads and stringers for damage 5._____ Check antenna mounts and wiring 6._____ Check fuel lines and valves 7._____ Check vertical fin and rudder surfaces 8._____ Check rudder horn and attachment 9._____ Check vertical fin attachments 10.____ Check rudder bolts for wear 11.____ Check horizonal stabilizer and elevators 12.____ Check horizonal stabilizer attachment 13.____ Check elevator horn 14.____ Check elevator bolts for wear 15.____ Check elevator bell cranks and controls and trim system 16.____ Lubricate all bearings as needed 17.____ Check general condition of skin 18.____ Check doors, latches and hinges 19.____ Check wiring for damage and security 20.____ Check cables for damage, security and operation 21.____ Check cabin heater and controls 22.____ Service hydraulic brake system 23.____ Check drain holes in rudder bottom and fuselage 23.____ Reinstall inspection plates and panels E. WING GROUP 1._____ Remove inspection plates and fairings 2._____ Check surfaces and tip for damage and loose rivets and condition of walkways 3._____ Check aileron mounts and attachments 4._____ Check aileron bellcrank and control tubes 5._____ Check flaps and attachment for damages 6._____ Check all wing attachment bolts 7._____ Check fuel tanks and lines for leaks and chafing 8._____ Check fuel tank vents 9._____ Check pitot 10._____ Reinstall inspection plates F. LANDING GEAR GROUP 1._____ Check nose gear travel and damper tightness 2._____ Check main gear attachments 3._____ Check tires for cuts and wear 4._____ Remove wheel, clean, and repack bearings COTTER PINS IN AXLES? 5._____ Check wheels for cracks, corrosion and broken bolts 6._____ Check tire pressure_____ 7._____ Check brake lining and disc 8._____ Check brake lines 9._____ Check tailwheel assembly for integrity and grease tailwheel G. OPERATIONAL INSPECTION 1._____ Check fuel pump and fuel tank selector 2._____ Check fuel pressure 3._____ Check oil pressure and temperature 4._____ Check alternator output 5._____ Check manifold pressure 6._____ Check alternate air 7._____ Check vacuum gauge 8._____ Check gyros for noise and roughness 9._____ Check Cabin heat operation 10.____ Check magneto switch operation 11.____ Check magneto RPM variation Left_____ Right_____ Run up rpm_______ 12.____ Check throttle and mixture operation 13.____ Check propeller smoothness 14.____ Check electronic equipment operation: fuel gauges, tach, engine instrumensts 15.____ Check ELT for operation and battery date 16.____ Check static rpms 17.____ Check idle rpms H. GENERAL 1._____ A.D.s complied with 2._____ Manufacturers service letters complied with 3._____ Registration, Airworthiness Cerfificate, Operating Limitations Signature_________________________ Certificate No.________________________ ************ Second type of form-credit to John Orndorff INSPECTION REPORT HOURS: MAKE: SERIAL #: REGISTRATION #: DATE: DESCRIPTION COMMENT A. PROPELLER GROUP 1. Inspect spinner and back plate.... 2. Inspect blades for nicks and cracks.... 3. Check for grease and oil leaks.... 4. Lubricate propeller per lubrication chart.... 5. Check spinner mounting brackets.... 6. Check propeller mounting bolts and safety.... 7. Inspect hub parts for cracks and corrosion.... B. ENGINE GROUP CAUTION: ground mags before working on engine 1. Remove engine cowl.... 2. Clean and check cowling for cracks, distortion and loose or missing fasteners.... 3. Drain oil sump.... 4. Clean suction oil strainer at oil change.... 5. Clean pressure oil strainer or change full flow oil filter element...... 6. Check oil temp. sender for leaks and security.... 7. Check oil lines and fittings for leaks, chafing security, dents and cracks.... 8. Clean and check oil radiator cooling fins.... 9. Fill engine with oil per lubrication chart... 10. Clean engine.... 11. Check condition of spark plugs adjust gap.... 12. Check ignition harness and insulators.... 13. Check magneto points for proper clearance maintain at .018 +- .006.... 14. Check magneto for oil seal leaks.... 15. Check breaker felt for proper lubrication.... 16. Check distributor block for cracks, burned areas or corrosion.... 17. Check magnetos to engine timing.... 18. Remove air filter and clean.... 19. Drain carburetor and clean inlet line fuel strainer.... 20. Check condition of carburetor heat air door and box.... 21. Check intake seal for leaks and clamps for tightness.... 22. Clean screens in fuel pump.... 23. Clean and check gasolator.... 24. Inspect condition of fuel lines.... 25. Check fuel system for leaks..... 26. Check electric fuel pump for operation..... 27. Check engine controls throttle, carb heat, mixture, and prop.... 28. Inspect exhaust stacks, connections, gaskets.... next page (1) DESCRIPTION COMMENT 29. Inspect hear exchange and baffles.... 30. Check breather tube for obstructions and security.... 31. Check crankcase for cracks, leaks, security of bolts.... 32. Check engine mounts for cracks and loose mountings....... 33. Check all engine baffles.... 34. Check firewall seals.... 36. Check condition and tension of alternator and drive belt.... 36. Check condition of starter.... 37. Check fluid in brake reservoir.... 38. Lubricate all controls.... 39. Reinstall engine cowl.... C. CABIN GROUP 1. Inspect canopy and windows.... 2. Check upholstery for tears.... 3. Check seats, seat belts, shoulder straps.... 4. Check trim operation... 5. Check rudder pedals.... 6. Check control column, systems and connection..... 7. Check landing, nav, cabin, and instrument lights.... 8. Check instrument, lines and attachments.... 9. Check gyro operation, and electric turn and bank.... 10. Check or replace gyro air filter.... 11. Clean or replace vacuum regulator filter.... 12. Check altimeter.... 13. Check operation of fuel selector valve.... 14. Check operation of engine primer.... 15. Check condition of heater controls.... 16. Check condition and operation air vents.... D. FUSELAGE AND EMPENNAGE GROUP 1. Remove inspection plates and panels... 2. Check battery box, battery and cables... 3. Check electronic installations.... 4. Check bulkheads and stringers for damage... 5. Check antenna mounts and wiring.... 6. Check fuel lines and valves.... 7. Check vertical fin and rudder surfaces.... 8. Check rudder horn and attachment.... 9. Check vertical fin attachments.... 10. Check rudder bolts for wear... 11. Check horizonal stabilizer and elevators... 12. Check horizonal stabilizer attachment... 13. Check elevator horn... 14. Check elevator bolts for wear.... next page (2) DESCRIPTION COMMENT 15. Check elevator bell cranks and controls.... 16. Lubricate all bearings as needed..... 17. Reinstall inspection plates and panels.... E. WING GROUP 1. Remove inspection plates... 2. Check surfaces and tip for damage and loose rivets and condition of walkways.... 3. Check aileron mounts and attachments.... 4. Check aileron bellcrank and control tubes.... 5. Check flaps and attachment for damages.... 6. Check all wing attachment bolts.... 7. Check fuel tanks and lines for leaks and.... 8. Check fuel tank vents.... 9. Reinstall inspection plates.... F. LANDING GEAR GROUP 1. Check nose gear travel and damper tightness.... 2. Check main gear attachments... 3. Check tires for cuts and wear.... 4. Remove wheel, clean, and repack bearings... 5. Check wheels for cracks, corrosion and broken bolts.... 6. Check tire pressure.... 7. Check brake lining and disc.... S. Check brake lines.... G. OPERATIONAL INSPECTION 1. Check fuel pump and fuel tank selector.... 2. Check fuel pressure.... 3. Check oil pressure and temperature.... 4. Check alternator output.... 5. Check manifold pressure.... 6. Check alternate air.... 7. Check vacuum gauge.... 8. Check gyros for noise and roughness.... 9. Check Cabin heat operation.... 10. Check magneto switch operation.... 11. Check magneto RPM variation.... 12. Check throttle and mixture operation.... 13. Check propeller smoothness.... 14. Check electronic equipment operation.... NOTES ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: Holes in my Confidence
Let me know if you don't get the answers you are looking for. I build wide- body jets, but I am an electrician. I know that when there are extra(wrong) holes in commercial jets, the mechanics use what is called "freeze plugs" They are put into the hole at extremely low temperature. When they expand, they are almost part of the metal they are placed in. Then they use a device called a microshaver to make it flush to the part of the airplane that they placed the freeze plug into. If you like, I will ask someone who has had to use freeze plugs alot if this would be practical for you. Seems better than extra rivets too close together. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: GARY HARVELL <harvell(at)monroeville.gulf.net>
Subject: manual flaps
Does anyone know of, or had any problems with the operation of the manual flaps on the rv6 or the rv6a? I heard that there might be and, electric flaps were the fix.. wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: Ivoprop VP Magnum prop (was Ivoprop cheap shot)
If the post from JA answering my question regarding the number of installations was understood correctly by me on the Maroon Maurauder I feel vindicated in my opinion of the IVO prop. I have no interest in this issue or gain to be made but the safety of fellow builders. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re:Abuse tolerent
Perhaps abuse tolerent was not a good choice of words---we should not purposely abuse our RVs. Hopefully Van has engineered into these fine aircraft the ability to live in the real world were not all rivits are perfect and all bolts perfectly torqued and all maintanence on time and always executed perfectly by only the most skilled of mechanics with all ac safely enscounced in warm, dry hangers between flights on sunny bluesky days piloted only by the most expert aviators who never blow a maneuver or have a hard landing --- I am currently working for an outfit restoring a type of classic ac ( unnamed because I want to keep my job) and you would be amazed at what I see ,yet these old birds did not fail. Perfection is not obtainable, but a certain amount of overbuilding and failsafe design is. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Conditional inspection checklist
From: ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
I'm in the process of doing my first conditional inspection, and I seem to recall that there are a couple of checklists floating around out there that other folks have used. I couldn't find it in the archives, does anyone have one that they could send me? Thanks, Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: RV Annual Inspection Form
From: ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
> Maybe the one of following will be usefull to you. >Bob Skinner RV-6 386 hrs Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com > >INSPECTION REPORT Type of Inspection __________________ Well, look what I found in my mailbox 2 seconds after I sent the last post. Bob, you are a mind reader. Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Re: RV Aerobatics
I am not planning any Extra300 type moves. Maybe an emmellmen, inside and outside loops, rolls, hammerheads etc...nothing extreme..then again, I do not know what any of these feel like, as I have never even been in a roll...just a spin or two... Paul Besing RV-6A QB (still waiting on kit) > > > >> >>With these discussions on aerobatic fuel stuff, I would like to know if >>there is some basic guidelines on what has to be done in order to make >a -6A >>proficient at aerobatics. Is it just a fuel issue for inverted flight, or >>are there other things that should be done? > > >At the risk of restating the obvious, if you don't have fuel injection, >inverted oil and fuel are a waste of effort. > >Unless you enjoy negative Gs, most people don't, you can do more acro than >most people care to and keep all the dirt on the floor. (no inverted systems >at all) > >If you are going to go the distance you need 5pt harness, all seat cushions >need to mechanically secured. A high quality G-meter (several are not), and >an RG battery. > >The most important acro accessory in any airplane is good judgement. > >Tailwinds, RV-4 N240 >Doug Rozendaal ATP CFI MEI >dougr(at)petroblend.com >www.petroblend.com/dougr > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
I second this suggestion! > >Get rid of the wife and keep the SIX. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Subject: Re: QB question
> For any of the QB'ers out there, how many hours of work is there > to do before you have to decide on an engine and order the > finishing kit? I am doing the emp, so the rudder will be done. > > Chris Browne > -6A emp shortly, more tools to buy Chris, The finishing kit components (canopy, engine mount, etc) came with my QB from the beginning. I decided on a dynafocal mount and slider from the beginning (I have an early quickbuild--slider was the only option). I now have just over 1000 hours of construction time, and I'm 95% finished with the panel wiring (IFR panel, which added time, as did the landing lights, other odds and ends, and my cautious approach). The next step for me is the gear, then it's engine mounting time. The engine lead time from Van's can vary from a couple of weeks (if they have what you want in stock) to several months (if there's a back log). Hope this helps. Tim Lewis ------------------------------------ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 Springfield VA timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or timrv6a(at)iname.com ------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com>
Subject: Re: NAS Bolts
> >Do the close tolerance wing bolts get torqued to the same value as the >corresponding size AN bolts. >-- >Chet Razer >crazer(at)egyptian.net > Yes. Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying (just finished my test period :) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
>I recently purchased an RV6 that I am reluctantly putting up for sale due to >a difference of opinion with my wife. If you are interested please visit >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/2186/ for specifications and >send me an email directly for further details. > >Regards, > >Steve > Steve, Keep the RV6 and sell the wife. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
>Does anyone know of, or had any problems with the operation >of the manual flaps on the rv6 or the rv6a? I heard that there >might be and, electric flaps were the fix.. Gary, I haven't had any problems with manual flaps in my RV-6. However, sometimes when I have a passenger, I have a hard time pulling on the last notch of flaps. Solo, it's not a problem. I think it's probably age or lack of muscle but I get a "hitch" in my shoulder when I can't move my arm into the passenger area. I do have the shortened flap handle (so the handle lays flush to the floor.) I may put electric flaps on the six I'm building, now, I haven't decided yet. One downside to the electric flap (I think) is that it is kind of a permanent installation. For annuals, it's nice to be able to remove the upright support and the baggage bulkheads so I can lay down and inspect up under the instrument panel. With the fixed, electric flap upright, I guess you'd have to straddle it. At 6'3", 220 lbs, fat and out of shape, I don't think I'm that flexable anymore. Bob Skinner RV-6 385 hrs Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com>
Subject: Re: QB question
> >I would say that the airframe is only about 65% of the building time. Once >the airframe is complete, installation of the sytems, (radios, engine, >instruments) and painting is a lot more time consuming than most people >think. >How about a response from some "flyers", anybody comment ? > > > No arguments here. That's why when a project is 90% done, there is 90% to go. All those little details in the airframe and systems eat up more time than anyone could imagine. Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying and finished with the test period :) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NAS Bolts
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
I am pretty sure that close tolerance NAS bolts have the same strength ( and same torque) rating as an equiv size standard AN bolt. I don't have my aircraft standards book here at home so can check for sure, but in the shop we use the same torque values as AN bolts. The only difference is that they are made to a very narrow tolerance for diameter (I think within .001 in.) Standard AN bolts are much more liberal. If you ever can't get a bolt to slip into a hole, try another bolt. You might be surprised. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: QB question
<19971115.034029.8223.5.donspawn(at)juno.com>
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
You will have to call the office to find out the availability of kits, usually the longest lead time for any sub kit is 6 - 8 wks (sorry I'm in the prototype shop so I'm not very connected with sales) I believe you can take either the 6 or 6A standard kit price and add $8000 to it and you are very close to the Q.B. price. Then for any options just add to that what the option cost or exchange difference is. Do you have any of our current order forms? If not call the office and they can send or fax them to you. These break down all the prices for you. Also ask for an options catalog, it will cover all the option costs. My airplane is painted with PPG durethane with the recommended DP-40 primer underneath. We painted the Yellow RV-8 with Superflight SystemIV. As far as we could tell its nearly identical to Durethane. The primer even looks and smells like DP-40. We really liked it and I would recommend either. They are both a true Urethane and dry rather slowly (don't get near it for 8 hrs) so you need a rather clean environment for painting to keep the dirt out, but the slow dry is what gives it that great smooth wet look. I believe it's good to use a product that someone else has had success with and can recommend but if you have painted before, consider using a product that is similar to what you have used in the past. There is a lot of good products that would be great for an RV besides just these, and some are a lot less expensive if you are building on a tight budget. Save yourself some grief though and use the recommended system for the whole job from the bare metal on out. I will send you some info about the RV-6A that I have for sale, off list. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: manual flaps
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 15, 1997
I have the manual flaps in my RV-6A and have always been happy with them. I have never heard of any problem with them. The main issue is operational. The flap handle does take up space in the cockpit that for larger sized people in the seats is an issue. Some pilots have mentioned difficulty pulling on the flaps, but I think it is dependant on flight technic. I have a flap handle that was shortened slightly and I have no problems, but my technic in landing is to not use the last notch (the full 40 deg) until late in the approach when I have the runway made and Ind. airspeed is down to 80 mph or below. If I do need full flaps earlier in the approach to help lose extra alt. I slow down first. If I pull the last notch at the top of the white arc it does take a good pull, but I can do it even with a shorted handle. There are good and bad points with both types but 1 of the nice things is that with manual you can have as much or little flaps as you want almost instantly. Raising the flaps immediately after touch down helps you stay put and protects them from rocks if the runway is so equipped. Also, a 6A if you get the flaps up you can hold the nose wheel off for a longer period of time such as in soft field landings. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A for sale
How much? Is is still for sale? thanks.. > >I apologize ahead of time if I am out of place for posting this here >(I didn't see anything about it in the user guide lines). > >I am new to the list, thought it would be interesting to see what was >being discussed in RV builders land. > >I moved to the Portland area 1 1/2 years ago to work in the prototype >shop at Van's Aircraft, and have enjoyed working there >except for one thing. My wife and I cannot afford to buy a house in this >area that is comparable to what we had in PHX because there is such a >large price differential between the 2 locations. As a result, our pride >and joy RV-6A is regrettably for sale. >It was featured as the march photo of the 1997 Vans aircraft calendar, >and is a very nice airplane. >If any of you run acrossed some one who - Loves RV's Wants an RV Can't >build one wants one right now - kind of thinker. >Please have them get in touch with me and maybe they can buy a real nice >airplane , and we can finally move out of this tiny apartment. > > Thanks > Scott Mc RV-6A N64SD > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Holes in my Confidence
Date: Nov 15, 1997
> > Let he who is without a figure eight hole in his RV speak first. > > I have some pre-punched figure eight ribs for sale for those without :=) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
GARY HARVELL wrote: > > Does anyone know of, or had any problems with the operation > of the manual flaps on the rv6 or the rv6a? I heard that there > might be and, electric flaps were the fix.. > The flap handle sits between the seats in the manual flap rv's, this can get in the way of elbows and stuff. This is the only problem that I know of. With electric flaps there is no handle. Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 22993 Starting fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV Aerobatics
Date: Nov 15, 1997
> >I am not planning any Extra300 type moves. Maybe an emmellmen, inside and >outside loops, rolls, hammerheads etc...nothing extreme..then again, I do >not know what any of these feel like, as I have never even been in a >roll...just a spin or two... > >Paul Besing >RV-6A QB (still waiting on kit) > Paul, Keep in mind ANY outside, or negatively loaded maneuvers will require full inverted systems. I've just completed an aerobatics course with Mudry Aviation (French Connection Airshow team) and an outside loop is is most DEFINITELY NOT on my plan of maneuvers with my RV-8! Even with inverted systems, it's a lot of negative load on the spars, seat mounts, tail mounts, etc. Leave this stuff for the Extras and Sukhois. I do plan on loops, rolls, hammerheads and spins..basically Sportsman category maneuvers. I'll also give my two cents worth for safety here..get some dual in unusual attitudes before you even consider it in your new RV. By the way, a 4G push kinda hurts yer noggin! You'll swear your head is gonna come off! Hope this helps. :) Brian Denk RV-8 Wings IAC member ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-8 Flaps
Date: Nov 15, 1997
Greetings folks, Does anybody know if the -8 will support a manual flap option? I want to keep my plane simple...as few wire runs, servos and associated electrical nonsense as possible. I'm not even close to working on the flaps yet, but want to make any changes necessary so I don't have to retro-fit anything later. Thanks, Brian Denk framing the wings ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us>
Subject: Re: QB question
My log shows about 800 hrs on QB, before needing an engine....I am slow..! This does not count tail kit which was built before ordering QB. Ron Vandervort, RV-6 QB Seattle area ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Luker, Michael G." <luker.michael(at)mayo.edu>
Subject: Props, speeds, etc
Date: Nov 16, 1997
A while ago I installed an Aymar Demuth 68X78 IFR prop. on my 0-360-A1A powered RV6A but because of poor weather and, other obligations I've been unable to do some flight testing. Well on Wednesday 11-12-97 The weather cleared enough to do some top speed performance testing, and they are as follows. Airplane had 26 gallons of fuel, 6 quarts of oil, and my 215 pounds of pure muscle. Do to weather the 4000 ft altitude was used. My airplane appears to have a much better top speed then the old prop. My top speed with the old prop was about 190 MPH. Needles to say I'm very pleased with the Aymar Demuth Propeller! Because so many people post airspeeds and do not specify whether it is true or whatever. I'm posting airspeed readings three different ways. IAS, Over the ground GPS reading, and True Airspeed. Airplane was flown at full power: Max RPM_____________________________ 2660 Altitude_______________________________ 4000 Temperature__________________________ -3C Pressure at altitude_____________________ 29.80 Manifold pressure? forgot to write down can't remember! Age, or lack of s__, well I won't get into that. But with these type of airspeeds who cares! Speed= MPH. OTG= Over the ground E6B= True airspeed computed with GPS E6B function. If done right? OTG E6B Direction IAS GPS TAS 359 degrees 207 213 209 180 degrees 210 229 212 270 degrees 208 189 210 90 degrees 204 209 206 TOTAL : 829 840 837 Average speed= 207.25 210 209.25 After getting the above reading I met up with a backward flying airplane known as a Cozy, this particular Cozy used to give me BEEP BEEP road runner communications as he passed me with my old prop. Now the tables are turned. I guess they call it a Cozy because it has that warm fuzzy feeling, not because it's fast. Now I have a particular looking Glasair in my sites, They call it the Bumble Bee. Apparently the pilot has been avoiding me because he to is afraid that he'll have to inhale my vapor trail. Future performance data will be shared as it is documented. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PILOT8127(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
Paul, If you MUST get rid of RV-6. I'll trade you my wife of 26 yrs. for it. That will give you two wives, and me two RV's ! I think RV's are much easier to live with............ Gary, flying RV-3 (160) N5AJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: RV Aerobatics
Date: Nov 12, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" > >I am not planning any Extra300 type moves. Maybe an emmellmen, inside and >outside loops, rolls, hammerheads etc...nothing extreme..then again, I do >not know what any of these feel like, as I have never even been in a >roll...just a spin or two... Paul, All the manuvers you describe, EXCEPT the outside loop, could be performed without an inverted system. (maybe have to cheat alittle bit once in awhile & may sputter alittle bit once in awhile) Before you spend a bunch, my recommendation is that you go find a Decathalon or something and get an acro intro ride. As for the outside loop, -4g's is nothing I am interested in an RV or an Extra It would hurt (6'1" 215#). In the RV you would be operating at the -G limit. In the Extra it would just hurt. No matter which way you go, put a flop tube in at least one tank. The rest of it can be added later. Tailwinds, RV-4 N240 Doug Rozendaal ATP CFI MEI dougr(at)petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
Date: Nov 12, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" I have manual flaps on my -4. The cockpit space is not an issue on the -4. I am a big guy and fairly strong. The first notch is no problem, but even at 80 mph I have to pull hard enough to get full flaps on that I just don't use full flaps very often. This is merely an inconvienance, however on take off or go-around it is a different story. I can not retract the flaps at any aispeed with full power. The flap lever twists and feels like it will bend if I pull harder. To get them up I climb to about 500 AGL pull the power back retract the flaps and then continue. I do not like this scenario. I have the electric flap kit and plan to install it this winter. I don't know if there is a geometry problem with my installation, but that is the way mine works. Anyone else? Tailwinds, -4 N240 Doug Rozendaal ATP CFI MEI dougr(at)petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: manual flaps
<19971114.031104.4823.1.SMCDANIELS(at)juno.com> Manual flaps, short handle RV-6. My comments: Agree with the following post. I go from 3rd notch (30 degrees) to the 4th notch (44 degrees) when airspeed drops below 65 KIAS. I have and can go higher but do not find it worth the effort. Push the prop forward, puff the throttle back and the manual flaps go down with no problem. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell R MCDANIELS) writes: > >I have the manual flaps in my RV-6A and have always been happy with >them. I have never heard of any problem with them. >The main issue is operational. The flap handle does take up space in >the cockpit that for larger sized people in the seats is an issue. >Some pilots have mentioned difficulty pulling on the flaps, but I >think it is dependant on flight technic. I have a flap handle that >was shortened slightly and I have no problems, but my technic in >landing is to not use the last notch (the full 40 deg) until late in >the approach when I have the runway made and Ind. airspeed is down to >80 mph or below. If I do need full flaps earlier in the approach to >help lose extra alt. I slow down first. If I pull the last notch at >the top of the white arc it does take a good pull, but I can do it >even with a shorted handle. There are good and bad points with both >types but 1 of the nice things is that with manual you can have as >much or little flaps as you want almost instantly. Raising the flaps >immediately after touch down helps you stay put and protects them from >rocks if the runway is so equipped. Also, a >6A if you get the flaps up you can hold the nose wheel off for a >longer >period of time such as in soft field landings. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
Paul: My RV-6 cost me 2 wives, 1 girlfriend, 2 houses, 3 rental properties, and a car. Yes it was worth it. (actually it is worth more.) I would do it again. The RV-6 gives more satisfaction, is less temperamental and does not mind when I fly another airplane. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell writes: > >Paul, If you MUST get rid of RV-6. I'll trade you my wife of 26 yrs. >for it. >That will give you two wives, and me two RV's ! I think RV's are much >easier >to live with............ > >Gary, flying RV-3 (160) N5AJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Mike Denman <mikedenman(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
GARY HARVELL wrote: > > > Does anyone know of, or had any problems with the operation > of the manual flaps on the rv6 or the rv6a? I heard that there > might be and, electric flaps were the fix.. > > wings > >I've been a passenger in a RV6 from California to Oshkosh and the pilot's elbow tends to get in the passenger's way during application of the flaps. Other than that, they seem to work fine. I put electric flaps in my RV6. These also work fine and the assembly can be easily removed during annuals if needed. Mike Denman RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rodwoodard(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: High Temps
Dean Hall isn't on the list as far as I know. He does have an e-mail address: deandoc(at)verinet.com I'm sure he'd be happy to answer any questions you might have. Rod Woodard Loveland, Colorado RV-8, #80033 writes: > >>The mechanism was called cowl flaps, and they provided a >>larger opening for exhausting heated air overboard......... > >Go back to the May, 1994 Sport Aviation and read Dean Hall's excellent >article on his RV-4. He installed a cowel flap and, as I recall >talking to >him, he says it helps while climbing but not on the ground, which is >where >it would be most helpful. Seems like he said he may not do it again, >given >the choice. I think he is on The List, too, but I don't know his >address. > >Keep building............. > >Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net>
Subject: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ?
About a year ago I saw an RV add-on for Microsoft Flight simulator created by some enterprising individual. It had been programmed with the same flight parameters and look of an RV. Does anybody know if one exists for flight simulator 98 ? Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com RV6A 70 TT N345RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MKswing(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: RV Aerobatics
Brian, Sounds like you had a great time taking the aerobatic course. Has taking the course given you any second thoughts about possibly building something more aerobatically inclined or do you feel the RV-8 will satisfy those aerobatic urges. Mike Kiess RV-6A QB on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: "Steven Janicki" <SJANICKI(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
--=_ORCL_57884064_0_11919711161227180 It will cost more in the end! Regards, Steve ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation. When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Steven B. Janicki Director of Client Services ORACLE Data Center Voice (415)506-2740 Fax (415)633-2933 --=_ORCL_57884064_0_11919711161227180 Date: 15 Nov 97 20:07:27 From:"Scott Gesele " Subject:Re: RV-List: RV6 For Sale >I recently purchased an RV6 that I am reluctantly putting up for sale due to >a difference of opinion with my wife. If you are interested please visit >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/2186/ for specifications and >send me an email directly for further details. > >Regards, > >Steve > Steve, Keep the RV6 and sell the wife. --=_ORCL_57884064_0_11919711161227180 name="anonymous-attachment-1"; charset="us-ascii" filename="anonymous-attachment-1" It will cost more in the end!

Regards,

Steve

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.

When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

 -- Leonardo Da Vinci


Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933





--=_ORCL_57884064_0_11919711161227180-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: "Steven Janicki" <SJANICKI(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
--=_ORCL_57888901_0_11919711161247290 52k. Regards, Steve ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation. When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Steven B. Janicki Director of Client Services ORACLE Data Center Voice (415)506-2740 Fax (415)633-2933 --=_ORCL_57888901_0_11919711161247290 Date: 15 Nov 97 03:01:42 From:"Nandang Jasin " Subject:Re: RV-List: RV6 For Sale Steven Janicki wrote: > > I recently purchased an RV6 that I am reluctantly putting up for sale due to > a difference of opinion with my wife. If you are interested please visit > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/2186/ for specifications and > send me an email directly for further details. > > Regards, > > Steve > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and > do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation. > > When once you have tasted flight, > you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, > for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. > > -- Leonardo Da Vinci > > > Steven B. Janicki > Director > ORACLE Data Center > > > > > > > The Cost? Thanks & Regards NANDANG JASIN --=_ORCL_57888901_0_11919711161247290 name="anonymous-attachment-1"; charset="us-ascii" filename="anonymous-attachment-1" 52k.

Regards,

Steve

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.

When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

 -- Leonardo Da Vinci


Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933





--=_ORCL_57888901_0_11919711161247290-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Paul Riedlinger <paulried(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Solution - Inexpensive Spray Gun
I have found a happy median between an expensive spray unit and the ZIPgun sprayer that has the open top paper cups. Woodworkers Supply (mail-order 800-645-9292) has a spray unit called The Critter. It works along the same lines at the ZIPgun unit but it is all metal with brass fittings and has a glass jar to hold the paint. Since it works the same as the ZIPgun, on the siphon principle, cleanup is much easier than an HVLP unit and it works great for small to medium priming jobs. The unit costs $41.00 and is comes with a spare set of seals. The company that makes the unit has a web page at www.wwdc.com/critter or your can email them at critterspray(at)wwdc.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lovilla(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: subscribe
"subscribe" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ?
Scott Johnson wrote: > > > About a year ago I saw an RV add-on for Microsoft Flight simulator created > by some enterprising individual. It had been programmed with the same flight > parameters and look of an RV. Does anybody know if one exists for flight > simulator 98 ? > > Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com > RV6A 70 TT N345RV Scott, I designed a 6, 6A and 8 for MS flight sim 5.1. Although they can be converted to work with fs98, the flight model needs some tweaking. I'm working on it. I know a number of you asked me for these files about a year ago. I had to drop out of the scene for a while and I apologise to all those who asked and never revieved them. Assuming I can fix the flight model to work with FS98, I'll let the list know when the new versions are ready and try to post them to a web site. Curt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: RV-List:DAR's
QUESTION: What has been the charge from DAR's for their inspection? Is the charge for the inspection or plus mileage or ? It would be handy for us to know what the "usual and reasonable charge" would be. Reply on list or off. Thanks, Michael mikel(at)dimensional.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: Inspection
Inspection today. After two delays for weather, it finally happened. My DAR took about 45 minutes on the airplane (although not necessary, I had EVERYTHING open) and results were most excellent. Another 45 minutes for paperwork and I suddenly had my "pink slip" (Special Airworthiness Certificate). After 6 1/2 years of construction (and other various activies) N 232 SQ now has a birth certificate. WOW!!! My test period is 40 hours (Warnke prop) which I don't mind at all. The test area is large (which is a good idea due to the speed of this aircraft) and the next phase of this project is about to begin: Test Flight But not until I am ready.......... But SOON............. Micheal N 232 Suzie Q ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: manual flaps
From: bob.char.reeves(at)juno.com (Robert L Reeves)
Doug, your -4 sounds exactly like mine does concerning the flaps. I moved the "full flap" setting to about a 3/4 full setting and still seldom use it cause its so hard to work. I'd advise anyone to go with the electric flaps, at least on a -4. . Bob Reeves Building Bearhawk, Flying RV-4 Hidden River Airport, Sarasota, Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ?
Curt Reimer wrote: snipped > I designed a 6, 6A and 8 for MS flight sim 5.1. Although they can be converted to work with fs98, the flight model needs some > tweaking. Curt, Will the file work with FS 95? If so, I'd like a copy. That way I won't have to wait till I get the fuselage kit done to make motor noises!! :-) Charlie Kuss RV8 VS Alodining & priming Boca Raton, Fl. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
> Doug, > your -4 sounds exactly like mine does concerning the flaps. I moved the > "full flap" setting to about a 3/4 full setting and still seldom use it > cause its so hard to work. I'd advise anyone to go with the electric > flaps, at least on a -4. > . > Bob Reeves > Building Bearhawk, Flying RV-4 > Hidden River Airport, > Sarasota, Florida > > Damn, sure wish I had known about this a year ago. I'm to close to finishing to change it now. Craig +-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-6A for sale
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Yes, it's still for sale. I will send you info off list. Anyone else that is interested send me mail and I will gladly send you some info. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-8 Flaps
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Brain, The RV-8 was designed to have electric flaps only. The RV-4 has always been the design that benefitted from the elect flaps the most because of interferences between the flap handle and rear seat passengers leg, etc. So it was made standard on the RV-8. As a result the system was able to be designed so that the entire mechanism is hidden and out of the way. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1997
From: Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post
> > ><< Also, I just turned 30, > > people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I > >suspect > I jumped in with both feet when I was 27 and was flying by 32. . > Ryan > > > > Ryan & Co. - I started when I was 18, got delayed till 32, & yes I am 48 >now but really wished I had not wasted that time between. I now fly a >completed RV, after 5 or so years, and have kept my flying up with C-185s >& to Champ between. If you can work with old buggers such as guys like me, they will give you a lot of help & encouragement. Don't despair, we have all been there!!! Good luck on your project. --- Ed - C-FXXG. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: eprth(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle)
Subject: RV6 Empannage
Hi all, Well I've done all the reading and research I can and last week I took the plunge and ordered the rv6 empannage kit. My shop is ready and I can't wait to begin construction. My wife hasn't even been that opposed to the idea so things are really looking good so far. Anyway, thanks for all the usefull info on the list and I'm sure I'll be back for more posts. Tim Houle Three Hills AB Canada (no longer a RV wanabe) *************************** Tim Houle email: eprth(at)kneehill.com *************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: Streamlined faring Wing to Fuselage
<< Recently I was in Oswego County at a fly-in and saw a couple of aircraft with these farings that are like the ( curved style. I was told by one individual that a person in Florida made them. Does anyone on here know the man's name or any other source that I may obtain them from? >> I'd guess you saw a product from Sam James. He also makes a great set of wheelpants. Contact him at: 941-675-4493. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kbeene(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
0. The case has been cleaned and zygloed and is now ready to paint. I would like to use the same paint (color and type) which I used on the engine mount - acrylic urethane over DP-40 epoxy primer. Any experience or recommendations about this application? 1. Will this type paint withstand the heat on the case? On the cylinders? 2. Should the case parts be painted before or after assembly? It appeared that Lycoming painted after assembly because the bolts were painted. Ken Beene email: kbeene(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ?
Say, did your ADD-ON work for MS Flight Sim 6.0? That is what I am currently using. It would really be neat to have RV's installed, since I am planning on beginning an RV6 real soon!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
Regarding elec. vs manual flaps. I had the manual on my 6. The problem I encountered was not putting flaps down, but raising them. The handle being so up right, having to take the pressure off of the button and then depressing the button was the hard part. It caused a 'catch' in my right shoulder to the point I would have to use both hands to raise the flaps. That is to get the pressure off of the button and then depress the button. On the first ride my wife went with me, when I did the procedure, the plane bobbled, she screamed WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING!!! She didn't like it, nor did I. After I explained to her on the ground, she offered to buy me the electric flaps for a gift. Putting the flaps down was no problem, just pull up until the button clicked into place. I like the electric flaps much better than the manual. And I am not one to put little whiz bang gizmos in my a/c. She was much more pleased on her second flight with me until I talked about a barrel roll, but that is another story. John Darby Stephenville TX johnd@our-town.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Dull Unibit
Does anyone know if unibits (step drills) can be sharpened? As expensive as they are it seems a real shame to just throw them away when they get dull. Gary Zilik RV-6A S/N 22993 Building Fuselage Jig ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: manual flaps- RV-4 mod
<< Doug, your -4 sounds exactly like mine does concerning the flaps. I moved the "full flap" setting to about a 3/4 full setting and still seldom use it cause its so hard to work. I'd advise anyone to go with the electric flaps, at least on a -4. .. Bob Reeves >> Hi all: Please pardon my intrusion into this -6 flap handle thread- the following is a fix I applied to a -4: After flying my -4 for about 2 hrs, I decided that the flap handle was a "bit underdesigned" for my flying style. The fix I applied was the following: I installed a doubler of the same mat'l as the rest of the handle, attached to the portion aft of the aft bend, on the outide of this section. This pc would attach with no other mods, and actually you could attach this stiffener pc only to the two bolts (use longer fasteners) which hold the handle to the flap bar. This stiffened up the aft section of the handle considerably, and allowed a bit higher speeds for full flaps as more force is applied to the detents. A slight bend in the stiffener could apply even more force to the detents. Previously, the flaps would "retract" to 20 deg automatically above 85-90 MPH. I didn't consider this a desirable trait- seemed to me they ought to hold to the top of the white arc. I don't seem to have as much of a speed problem with my current bird, but the flaps are about 3" smaller, due to the shorter span (40 deg at 100 MPH is no problem), and the detents are closer to the pivot, as the seat back is a bit further aft (about 2"). I do have a "few" hours in the -6, and I can agree with the speed and elbow-room limit for the second detent. Speedwise, you just have to plan for it, which is more diffucult without the c/s prop. "Elbow-room wise", you'll have to skip those $80 fly-out hamburgers for a lo-o-o-o-o-ng time. :-( Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Re: manual flaps
I have manual flaps on my -4. I am almost finished with the test period. I thought mine were hard to retract to begin with until I found I was actually fighting the latching mechanism, not the airspeed. I can fairly easily deploy or retract them at 80-100mph with or without full power (20 or 40 degrees). This was part of one of the tests. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N63tx(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: RV-6a electri8 Flaps
Anyone know about the "fix---as in retrofit" for the RV6A electric flap? Have had a request in for some months now but ain't heard nothing. (This is top of electric motor is drilled ACROSS another hole to make it work........some concern evidently about "weakening" of the top portion). Now have approximately 843.8 hours flown on RV 6a, no problems with electric flap. Only way to go in my humble opinion. Marv Soward N63tx(at)aol.com (63 is how old I was when first flew and the tx of course is required ifn built in Texas...N63tx) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: High Temps
I put a fairly large cowl flap on my plane ( it was described in one of my newsletters and included some pictures) and it does not help on the ground. It does not do much good in the air until you get very cold and then you can keep the temperatures up a bit by closing off the area between the exhaust pipes. At slower speeds with the flap full open, which is about one inch below the line of the cowl, the temperatures actually go up, not down. I attribute this to the fact that Van got the size of the inlet and outlet exactly right and that opening the exit actually decreases the air flow through the engine. No change in airspeed, regardless of flap position. If I had it to do over, I wouldn't bother. Jim Cone jamescone(at)aol.com RV-6A Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: Cautionary Note Required ??
<> How did you attach it to the canopy? Bob Busick RV-6 Fremont CA I cut my canopy so that it was about 3/8" from the top fuselage skin and roughed up the Plexiglas from the rear tube of the canopy frame to the edge. I then layed up four layers of fiberglass and then drilled and pop riveted the fiberglass to the frame, even though it probably didn't need to be done. I filled the rivets and sanded them smooth and they are invisible after I painted the plane. Jim Cone jamescone(at)aol.com RV-6A Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: more info re: vapor lock
You asked: Saw your posting on the RV list regarding your vapor lock problem and your fix. Would be very much interested in getting some details about what you did. What kind of filter did you install in the cockpit and where in the system is it ? How is the "return line " from the carb installed? I am getting real close to flying my 6A; all this talk of vapor lock is kind of scary. I currently have a gascolator installed but no blast tube. Was planning on putting one in until I read your note. Now I am not sure if I will leave the gascolator in or not. There are alot of opinions out there, but it is great to here from somebody with first hand experience in flying these things. Thanks alot for any info you can send, Walt Hastings (Rvator 97(at)aol.com) The filter is a Fram HPG-1 (high performance gas) filter. It is about the size of an oil filter with a replacable filter element. It is downstream from the fuel selector but before the electric fuel pump. I put the return line from the other fuel inlet on the Ellison TB ( it has one on each side) and returned it to the unused port on the fuel selector. When selected to this position, the fuel is pumped in a run-a-round by the electric pump. The fuel lines, fuel fliter, and fuel pump in the cockpit act like a heat sink and cool the fuel. I can hear the difference when the hot fuel reaches the electric pump because it changes tone. I then select one of the wing tanks and start the engine. This has worked for me and I have had no problems whatever even on the hottest day. Jim Cone jamescone(at)aol.com RV-6A Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com>
Subject: RV-6 for sale
N16JA, 150 HP, fixed pitch wood prop, VAL 760 COMM, IIMorrow Loran, Xpnder with Mode C, Dual fuel monitors, remote oil filter, full swivel tailwheel, Electronics International EGT/CHT and Ammeter/Voltmeter, tip up canopy, strobes, position lites, landing/taxi light, etc. Call 206.525.5445 or email ammeterj(at)seanet.com for more info. Asking $48,500. Located at Paine Field north of Seattle. Always hangared. Airframe 220 TT and engine 650 SMOH. Engine 76/80 all cylinders last annual. John Ammeter ammeterj(at)seanet.com Seattle WA USA RV-6 N16JA First flight August 1990 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Re: Dull Unibit
I've had good luck sharpening mine on a diamond stone. I just looked at the stone but couldn't find any brand name on it. I placed the bit on the stone and just worked it back and forth. Seemed to sharpen the bit just fine. John > >Does anyone know if unibits (step drills) can be sharpened? As expensive >as they are it seems a real shame to just throw them away when they get >dull. > >Gary Zilik >RV-6A S/N 22993 >Building Fuselage Jig > > > > > > > > John Ammeter ammeterj(at)seanet.com Seattle WA USA RV-6 N16JA First flight August 1990 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6a electri8 Flaps
> (This is top of electric motor is drilled ACROSS another hole > to make it work........some concern evidently about "weakening" > of the top portion). Marv, the rework Van's will have done is to replace the casting containing the two cross holes. Call Van's. For those who have not yet drilled the cross hole (some motors supplied come with one hole already), don't. Van's will send you a small kit for free, which is simply a short steel tube and a bolt. The short tube extends the overall length an inch or two, so don't build the flap housing until you get the kit, as the mounting angle's vertical position will change. Alex Peterson 6A, finishing kit (almost) Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re:
>0. The case has been cleaned and zygloed and is now >ready to paint. I would like to use the same paint (color and type) which I >used on the engine mount - acrylic urethane over DP-40 epoxy primer. Any >experience or recommendations about this application? > >1. Will this type paint withstand the heat on the case? On the cylinders? >2. Should the case parts be painted before or after assembly? It appeared >that Lycoming painted after assembly because the bolts were painted. > >Ken Beene email: kbeene(at)aol.com Ken, The very most that I would do would be to use tried & proven paint for the engine. Could be an expensive mess if "experimenting" turned out badly. I've considered following a bit of advice that I got out of the "Skyranch Engineering Manual", page 203. To sum up several paragraphs, John Schwaner, author, recommends alodine on all aluminum parts, both case and cylinder cooling fins. He states that Continental no longer paints the aluminum parts on their engines. Alodine does not peel, flake, or need stripping at the next overhaul. Alodined cylinder fins help loose heat to the passing air the best. If you decide to paint, Schwaner recommends the use of Randolf engine enamel. The surface to be painted should be clean and oil free. After painting, for the most durable job, the parts should be baked in an oven for 1 hour at 200 degrees F. I guess I like the idea of alodine. Quick, simple and low cost. And, there's no danger of getting paint where it doesn't belong like the cylinder/crankcase mating area. Bob Skinner RV-6 385 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Subject: RV-6 Fuselage Jig
It seems a shame to cut up my nice RV-6 fuselage jig for scrap, but the airplane is flying, and I need the space. If someone wants to come to Green Bay, WI to pick it up, they can have it for $35. The jig is designed to be disassembled into two pieces so that it can be hauled in a pickup. If someone is interested, let me know before December 15th. Mark Nielsen RV-6, flying. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re:
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Just a little side line note to the question. Be careful using some of the autoparts store engine enamels. A friend of mine in PHX thought it would be neat to have a bright red engine. Painted it with rattle can high temp from the autoparts store (sorry don't know what brand). During the first 50 or 60 hours of flight while the paint baked on the engine, it out gased and stained his off-white colored RV-6 pink anywhere the engine compartment air came out of the cowling. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
From: Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us>
Subject: Alternator/CS oil line interference
Hello out there, I just mounted my 35 amp Van's alternator with Van's bracket to find the housing of the alternator touches the Constant Speed prop oil line, as alternator is positioned about 1/3rd up from its lowest position......not enough adjustment for belt that way in my opinion. Has anyone else seen this problem and how did you work around it? I hate to make up a new line routing if I don't have to. This is the stock one and they are quite pricey. Thank You...! Ron Vandervort, RV6Q Seattle area ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
>Damn, sure wish I had known about this a year ago. >I'm to close to finishing to change it now. > >Craig The Manual flaps work well Craig. I only ever use 20 degrees for landing and nothing on takeoff. Under 100 mph it is easy to add 20 degrees. If I need 40 degrees I slow to 85 raise the nose slightly, let it go, then pull the flaps. This greatly decreases the effort needed. I do not remember having any problem with reducing the flap settings under power. It could be that I have never tried. Tom Martin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Roger Embree <rae1(at)planeteer.com>
Subject: Trimming Flap Skin
SK-52 for the RV6 shows clearly how to trim skin at the root end of the flap, not! It looks like the bottom portion of the top skin is not trimmed. Where does the leading edge get trimmed to? Roger Embree ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough)
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: RV-6a electri8 Flaps
Anyone know about the "fix---as in retrofit" for the RV6A electric flap? Have had a request in for some months now but ain't heard nothing. I asked the same question about a month ago. Several folks responded saying they'd received theirs, I guess we must be way down on the list. Bill Benedict....any comment? Ken RV6A Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Alternator/CS oil line interference
I have an O-320 NARROW DECK engine. This uses an alternator bracket mounted to the engine case bolts. (Not boss mount.) I had the same problem. I solved the problem by installing the B&C alternator. I had an Aeroquip teflon/stainless braid hose made (3,000 psi and $53) to try to reduce the interference. I did not like the way it would rub against the bracket and clamping would have it rub against the case. No interference problem with the B&C. I have the alternator at the closest to the engine location on the adjustment arm. There is also more room with the B&C when it is fully extended to the farthest position from the engine. (apx. 3/8" clearance from the cowl.) Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell writes: > > >Hello out there, > >I just mounted my 35 amp Van's alternator with Van's bracket to find >the >housing of the alternator touches the Constant Speed prop oil line, as >alternator is positioned about 1/3rd up from its lowest >position......not >enough adjustment for belt that way in my opinion. > >Has anyone else seen this problem and how did you work around it? I >hate >to make up a new line routing if I don't have to. This is the stock >one >and they are quite pricey. Thank You...! > >Ron Vandervort, RV6Q >Seattle area > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: chuckie8 <chuckie8(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator/CS oil line interference
Ronald Vandervort wrote: > > > Hello out there, > > I just mounted my 35 amp Van's alternator with Van's bracket to find the > housing of the alternator touches the Constant Speed prop oil line, as > alternator is positioned about 1/3rd up from its lowest position......not > enough adjustment for belt that way in my opinion. > > Has anyone else seen this problem and how did you work around it? I hate > to make up a new line routing if I don't have to. This is the stock one > and they are quite pricey. Thank You...! > > Ron Vandervort, RV6Q > Seattle area > Ron- I had the same problem trying to fit my gov. cable bracket to my gov on a new engine from Vans. The oil filter is in the way. I wish Van would at least make his accessories fit his things that he sells. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Dull Unibit
Gary, yes ht eunbit can be resharpened. You need a small cone sharped stone like the one you can get be a drimel tool . Sharpen the inside of the cut out area of the bit not the out side. Good luck....George Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: "Anderson Ed" <AndersonE(at)bah.com>
Subject: Re: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ?
Curt, I am awaiting FAA inspection on my RV-6A and happen to have MS Flight Simulator (older version). Was wondering whether you have made available a copy of your previous version of the RV-6 and where/how might I acquire a copy. Ed Andersone(at)bah.com ---------- From: Curt Reimer Subject: Re: RV-List: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ? Date: Sunday, November 16, 1997 4:53PM Scott Johnson wrote: > > > About a year ago I saw an RV add-on for Microsoft Flight simulator created > by some enterprising individual. It had been programmed with the same flight > parameters and look of an RV. Does anybody know if one exists for flight > simulator 98 ? > > Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com > RV6A 70 TT N345RV Scott, I designed a 6, 6A and 8 for MS flight sim 5.1. Although they can be converted to work with fs98, the flight model needs some tweaking. I'm working on it. I know a number of you asked me for these files about a year ago. I had to drop out of the scene for a while and I apologise to all those who asked and never revieved them. Assuming I can fix the flight model to work with FS98, I'll let the list know when the new versions are ready and try to post them to a web site. Curt | | | ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Gear leg fairings
Does anyone on the list know of anyone that makes gear leg and gear leg intersection fairings for a -4? Thanks. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: RV-6a electri8 Flaps
In a message dated 11/16/97 22:10:53, you wrote: >Now have approximately 843.8 hours flown on RV 6A, no problems >with electric flap. Only way to go in my humble opinion. I decided on electric flaps after interviewing a lot of RV builders. The above opinion is quite typical! Personally I was inclined to favor the simplicity of the manual....... But I encountered 100% satisfaction with the electric, from everyone!! Including those who didn't have it?? They all said if they were doing it over they would install electric. So I went with the electric. Now I see why it has such a following. It is a very elegant design and the ultimate example of a Van piece of engineering. It is simple, cheap, extremely reliable, and easy to install. The toggle switch action is great. Have never seen it before but it is just the thing for an RV. In my humble opinion it is probably more rugged than the manual, and definitely more reliable. How can you beat a deal like that? Do I sound happy with mine? On the other hand the manual is a fine system, works ok and if you need to save some bucks, why not? My point is, of all the options I bought, this is the best deal. D Walsh 100 Hrs RV 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Sportcraft antennas for ILS & GS
I'm interested in using the Sportcraft wingtip vor antenna in my -6a. I was wondering if anyone has tried using it with a splitter, for a vor/loc and glideslope antenna? I realize that using one wingtip antenna for gs would put me 1/2 wingspan off of the gs centerline, but I think I could live with that. Would this work? Has anyone else tried this? Thanks. Mark LaBoyteaux Broken Arrow, Ok mlaboyteau(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Gear leg fairings
<< Does anyone on the list know of anyone that makes gear leg and gear leg intersection fairings for a -4? Thanks. Michael >> I make the (1 pc fiberglass) gear leg covers. As far as I know, no one is making the intersection fairings. I have considered a "floppy" style of the intersection fairing. I'd need a beta tester.... Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)mailhost.avici.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding/Alt. Breaker
> >I have never had an alternator C.B. trip open nor have of ever heard of >anyone else mentioning it, but if what you say is true then an alternate >installation might be a good idea. > When I had my Cessna 172M, the alternator breaker popped. In accordance with Murpy's law, it popped the first time I was flying in actual IFR without an instructor. Cheryl Sanchez csanchez(at)world.std.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Barry Wawrin" <mrb54(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuselage Interior Painting
Date: Nov 17, 1997
I am about ready to order my RV-6A Quick-build fuselage and have questions as to its interior painting. Is it advisable to paint the interior prior to installing all the cables, rudder pedels, seats, electric flaps, and other miscellaneous items or is this normally done afterwards? I understand Van ships the fuselage primed. Any thoughts/suggestions? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rimbold(at)apollo.hp.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
(azstarnet.com!sarg314(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: water-based epoxy primer.
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com writes: > My Sherwyn Williams store showed me info on a "water based catalyzed > epoxy primer" for aluminum, steel, and galvanized steel. I checked > the archives but found no reference to it, so excuse me if this has > been discussed before. > > The stuff looks interesting. It's not an isocyanate and the hazards sheet > makes it sound fairly benign as these things go. It is an epoxy and so > forms a real moisture barrier. Water soluable sounds great. Pot life is > 12 hours. Bernie Kerr and I have been using Deft (from Deft, not from Sherwyn Williams), which is also a water-reduced catalyzed epoxy primer. It does contain isocyanates. We've also tried Marhyde. Marhyde doesn't require a mixing or etching stage. It does require solvent to clean up. This gets each painting session started slightly faster than using Deft, but clean up is much harder. Like most non-epoxy primers, I expect that it doesn't form a moisture barrier. It dries fast enough so that a part can be flipped over after about 5 minutes. Deft takes a few minutes to measure and mix the components, but probably not longer than 10 minutes from start to finish (ready to spray). Cleanup is very easy, since you're using water to do it. It forms a moisture (and almost everything else) barrier. Really strong finish. Dimpling after priming doesn't mar the finish. Scratches are very hard to make in it. Flip-time after spraying is about 10 minutes in direct sunlight. I wouldn't go more than two hours with a batch in the gun. The time until it kicks off can be delayed by keeping it cool (unused portion in a jar cooled in a water bath). Cost is $350 for a case of 4 kits - the minimum that can be bought from the factory. A kit consists two one-gallon cans, one 2/3 full of base, and one 1/3 full of catalyst. This is mixed 2-1-5 base, catalyst, water. We bought our first kit from another RV person, and then bought a case from the factory and split it with other local RV builders. > On the minus side it's expensive ($50/gal). It has a "sweat in" time > of 1/2 to 1 hour. (I gather that's letting it sit after mixing it?) Remember that it's reduced before spraying, so you can't directly compare gallon quantities with other type paints. > Of course, if it was really terrific, I assume everybody would already > be using it. Well, we're using something similar and think it's great stuff. > So, what am I missing here? Has anyone used this stuff or has anyone > considered it and rejected it for some reason? I prefer Deft over Marhyde, but still use a Marhyde aerosol can for touch-up or small pieces that need to be done immediately. 'Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: AD list/Service bulletins
Is there an internet listing of AD's and/or service bulletins? I'm looking for Lycoming AD's. OR if anyone has a list of AD's on Lycimings since 1994, that would be helpful. Thanks..... Michael N 232 Suzie Q ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Rick Osgood <rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Fuselage Jig
Hi Mark.. I live in the Minneapolis area and am interested in your Jig. I am not sure if I can get to you real soon thou. How long can you hang on to it?? Is the first of the year to long?? Thanks Rick Osgood Mark Nielsen wrote: > > It seems a shame to cut up my nice RV-6 fuselage jig for scrap, but the > airplane is flying, and I need the space. If someone wants to come to Green > Bay, WI to pick it up, they can have it for $35. > > The jig is designed to be disassembled into two pieces so that it can be > hauled in a pickup. If someone is interested, let me know before December 15th. > > Mark Nielsen > RV-6, flying. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N63tx(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: RV-6a electri8 Flaps
What I was trying to say was: got the "kit" from VAN's, steel tube, et.al. but, since I'm already flying........NEED A NEW ELECTRIC MOTOR, ETC. from Van's Have sent kit back, sent FAX and letter saying.....NEED THE FIX ON ELECTRIC MOTOR FOR ELECTRIC FLAP FROM VAN's. Ain't heard nothing, but with over 800 hours perhaps it's OK Mar N63tx(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Buying a partially completed
I have found a -6A kit that is built to the same stage as a quickbuild that will save me about $3000. Should I buy it, and if so, what should I watch out for? It has a factory built spar, built for tip-up, electric flaps, and is at the finish kit stages. thanks... Paul Besing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Looking for a finish kit
Does anyone know of anyone who may have a -6a finish kit for sale? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Trimming Flap Skin
I had the same problem. I decided to leave it full length, and trim it at the time of final installation. Chris > > SK-52 for the RV6 shows clearly how to trim skin at the root end of the > flap, not! > > It looks like the bottom portion of the top skin is not trimmed. Where > does the leading edge get trimmed to? > > Roger Embree > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1997
Subject: Re: Tank Seal
From: less_drag(at)juno.com (James E Ayers)
R MCDANIELS) writes: > On the end plates and fuel senders I prefer to just put them on with >proseal and then you can be almost sure they wont leak. Leaks are a >pain (they are anywhere, but...) but it is very tight to work in that >area after the wing is on the airplane. Don't worry, if you do use >proseal you can get it apart if you ever have to. In fact it doesn't >seem to be to much worse than with a cork casket with casket sealer >that's been in place for a few years > (cleaning off the proseal residue to reseal the part is another story). If you square off the end of a pop sickle stick, or tongue depressor, and sharpen the end, you can scrap the proseal off without damaging the aluminum. This is really just a wooden chisel. Jim Ayers Less_Drag(at)juno.com (Still trying to work the bugs out of my recent windows 95 upgrade. I keep loosing the use of the modem.) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Malott" <drmalott(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Trimming Flap Skin
Date: Nov 17, 1997
>From owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com Mon Nov 17 08:02:59 1997 >Received: (from uucp@localhost) > by netcomsv.netcom.com (8.8.5-r-beta/8.8.5/(NETCOM v1.01)) id HAA25237; >>Received: by matronics.com (4.1/SMI-4.1) >Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com >Message-Id: <34704E6F.250(at)planeteer.com> >Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 06:02:23 -0800 >From: Roger Embree <planeteer.com!rae1(at)matronics.com> >X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.03 (Win95; I) >Mime-Version: 1.0 >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Trimming Flap Skin >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com >Precedence: bulk >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > >SK-52 for the RV6 shows clearly how to trim skin at the root end of the >flap, not! > >It looks like the bottom portion of the top skin is not trimmed. Where >does the leading edge get trimmed to? > >Roger Embree > >When I built my flaps, I waited until I was able to fit the flap to the wing with the wing installed on the fuselage. Cut and fit a bit at a time. David Malott > > > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TBRV(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: air compressor
I'm gearing up for my first RV project and am in need of a new air compressor. The new oilless styles seem common now and more attractively priced. I would like to know some builders' opinions. Are they as reliable long term? How about tank size? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Trimming Flap Skin
Date: Nov 17, 1997
If I recall the plans correctly, you trim the skins when the wing is on the plane and you can see where the fuselage/flap skins are. I left my flap skins long. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont -----Original Message----- From: Roger Embree [SMTP:planeteer.com!rae1(at)matronics.com] Sent: Monday, November 17, 1997 9:02 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Trimming Flap Skin SK-52 for the RV6 shows clearly how to trim skin at the root end of the flap, not! It looks like the bottom portion of the top skin is not trimmed. Where does the leading edge get trimmed to? Roger Embree ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)GEON.com>
Subject: High Temps
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Exploding bolts on the drop tanks?! Just kidding... actually, aside from the rapidly moving instrument panel, the tanks are my greatest fear in a mishap with something solid. Keep thinking, maybe there is a way to make something like this work. Bryan Jones JONESB(at)GEON.COM > Nor have I heard of one > that will jettison the fuel tanks just before hitting something solid. > > But then . . . Give us time > > Cecil Hatfield > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: engine paint
Date: Nov 17, 1997
> > 0. The case has been cleaned and zygloed and is now > ready to paint. I would like to use the same paint (color and type) which I > used on the engine mount - acrylic urethane over DP-40 epoxy primer. Any > experience or recommendations about this application? > > 1. Will this type paint withstand the heat on the case? On the cylinders? > 2. Should the case parts be painted before or after assembly? It appeared > that Lycoming painted after assembly because the bolts were painted. > FTIW, I used a rattle can of Lycoming gray because: 1. you don't paint a Chevy Ford blue (unwritten rule) 2. if high temp paint starts to burn you may have internal problems, if regular paint burns it tells you little 3. certain areas aren't supposed to have paint on them so they seat and torque correctly, it's way easier to paint after assembly 4. used engines for sale painted funny, are. 5. you're gonna' scratch that pretty paint cause that baffling forces you to squeeze wrenches in tight spaces. kevin 6A -32 hrs in 32 days! flying's way more fun than painting. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)meridium.com>
Subject: Used Avionics
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Anybody got some contacts for used/yellow tag avionics vendors? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us>
Subject: Re: air compressor
> > I'm gearing up for my first RV project and am in need of a new air >compressor. The new oilless styles seem common now and more attractively >priced. I would like to know some builders' opinions. Are they as reliable >long term? How about tank size? > You'll probably get a ton of replys on this subject. Don't get an oilless compressor. They are way too noisy! There has been a lot on this subject in the past and you might want to check the archives. Ray and Nancy Murphy murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us North Bend, OR RV6A empenage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com>
Subject: Re: Sportcraft antennas for ILS & GS
aol.com!MLaboyteau(at)matronics.com wrote: > > I'm interested in using the Sportcraft wingtip vor antenna in my -6a. I was > wondering if anyone has tried using it with a splitter, for a vor/loc and > glideslope antenna? I realize that using one wingtip antenna for gs would put > me 1/2 wingspan off of the gs centerline, but I think I could live with that. > Would this work? Has anyone else tried this? Have exactly that setup in my RV-6. Even went with a really cheap splitter when I couldn't get my hands on a real GS/VOR one. I wasn't concerned with the 1/2 off centreline as I was about a weaker signal for the VOR. I am getting satisfactory reception (about 65-70 miles at 5500'). Terry Jantzi RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: zero G's
Date: Nov 17, 1997
What condition actually causes a carburated engine to quit as the plane goes negative? It seems to me that as it passes thru less than 1 G the float becomes less buoyant, since the density of the fuel is less, which opens the valve and overflows the bowl and the engine quits, being too rich. However, perhaps the inertia of the fuel in the bowl sloshes up against the float at zero G's and actually causes the valve to close. Since the fuel to the venturi is siphoned off the bottom of the bowl it goes dry and the engine quits, on the too lean condition. I am experiencing my engine quitting on what seems mild G ratings, like simply pushing the nose over at 1/2 G. Having little prior experience with Lycomings I don't know if this is normal or not for a larger displacement carburated engine. I was wondering if the float level or mixture could be a factor. The float measures all of a 1/64" too low when using the 7/32" drill bit method specified in the metal float AD directions. It's hard to believe that would make a difference. My engine originally was in a 172. Someone said that the carb. could be jetted differently depending on what plane it was in originally. What is the best criterion for sizing the jets, mixture knob pull, spark plug color, absolute EGT temps? kevin 6A O-320 D2J 160hp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Bob Nuckolls <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding
> >I wrote, " can get loose or pulled off over time" not WILL get loose or >pulled of over time. >Working as an A&P doing a lot of avionics work in the past I have found >lots of noise/ground loop problems caused by these type of connectors. Can you describe the "noise" mechanism . . . was the terminal physically loose on the tab? What system had the terminal problem and what system was victim to the noise? > . . . . I >didn't say don't use them, I just mentioned that from my experience I >prefer not to. Have you never found a loose screw on a ring terminal that exhibited similar problems? > . . . (BTW I think all of us that have ever owned or done >maint. on Cessna aircraft know that just because cessna did it on there >airplanes doesn't mean its the best/only way (I 'm not talking >specifically electrical items). My ONLY reason for refering to Cessna's use of the terminals was to point to a demonstrated successful application of the technology . . . indeed it's a DIFFERENT way to do it. Given that BOTH the Fast-On and ring terminals have failure modes then my recommnedations have to encompass a wider range of considerations including ease of one-handed, blind installation and increased system reliability due to lower parts count. >I have never had an alternator C.B. trip open nor have of ever heard of >anyone else mentioning it, but if what you say is true then an alternate >installation might be a good idea. I've been doing forums at various fly-ins and weekend seminars for over 10 years. One question I try to ask every audience is "how many people have had a breaker open in flight?" Followed by, "how many people got the system back on line by reseting the breaker?" Invariably, alternator b-lead breakers top the list for frequency -AND- continued useful service from the alternator after reset . . . this is a prime indicator that the breaker is UNDERSIZED . . . it nuisance trips more often than any other breaker on certified airplanes. Landing gear systems and flap systems are next in line and getting useful service out of the system by reseting the breaker was a toss-up. There have been a smattering of other systems spoken to . . . almost none of these were nuisance trips . . . something was broke and the breaker immmediately reopend. >Yes Bob, I know what it describes, that's why I mentioned a way to do >the same type of protection IF you are using the more inexpensive toggle >switches instead of the split rocker switch. I guess I lost you here . . . looked back over my previous messages and didn't plug into the drift of this statement. >I wasn't at all advocating using it. And if you want to talk about >expensive, seems to me those pullable breakers are a little on the pricy >side compared to the standard type. (but maybe not any more than the >combined cost of a breaker and a switch). Never recommended that anyone use pullable breakers as the general distribution bus protection . . . they are indeed expensive. The systems I design use ONE pullable breaker in the alternator field circuit to allow manually disabling the alternator for (1) ground ops with battery only and (2) in flight if the regulator is getting fussy, but not wild enought to trip the OV system . . . . you still need to kill the main bus by opening the battery contactor until the airport is in sight. Then, if you think you have enough battery left you can bring the main bus up to power lights, gear pumps, etc. etc. The alternator needs to stay off line so you'll need to pull a breaker to keep it off. Breaker-switches are useful if (1) you plan to have a clasic breaker-patch and would like to have a single component handle both functions and (2) if you don't mind having the breaker- switches located on the right side with the other breakers. As soon as you move them to the left side, you have expanded the amount of distribution bus wiring and hardware to both sides of the panel. From an idealized failure modes viewpoint, ZERO wiring between battery and bus is goal. The installation I plan to STC onto a Tri-Pacer mounts the fuesholders right next to the battery box . . . VERY short bus feeders. Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: zero G's
Date: Nov 17, 1997
What condition actually causes a carburated engine to quit as the plane goes negative? It seems to me that as it passes thru less than 1 G the float becomes less buoyant, since the density of the fuel is less, which opens the valve and overflows the bowl and the engine quits, being too rich. However, perhaps the inertia of the fuel in the bowl sloshes up against the float at zero G's and actually causes the valve to close. Since the fuel to the venturi is siphoned off the bottom of the bowl it goes dry and the engine quits, on the too lean condition. I am experiencing my engine quitting on what seems mild G ratings, like simply pushing the nose over at 1/2 G. Having little prior experience with Lycomings I don't know if this is normal or not for a larger displacement carburated engine. I was wondering if the float level or mixture could be a factor. The float measures all of a 1/64" too low when using the 7/32" drill bit method specified in the metal float AD directions. It's hard to believe that would make a difference. My engine originally was in a 172. Someone said that the carb. could be jetted differently depending on what plane it was in originally. What is the best criterion for sizing the jets, mixture knob pull, spark plug color, absolute EGT temps? kevin 6A O-320 D2J 160hp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Gary kozinski <KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com>
Subject: 172 Alternator CB Failure
SMCDANIELS Wrote: (On a 172) -I have never had an alternator C.B. trip open nor have of ever heard of anyone else mentioning it, but if what you say is true then an alternate installation might be a good idea. Well here goes: My C-172K, departed IFR 1000 ft overcast, radios, lights, pitot heat all on. About 10 minutes at 2000 MSL into the flight the whine in the headsets went away. Having had an alternator failure before I honed in on the ammeter which was now in the deep negative zone. I declaired an emergency (best thing I ever could have done), ATC clear me for an approach to where I departed. I shut everything down except for one radio w/LOC. I arrived safely on the ground w/fire truck escort to my tie down. Lesson learned: Check the breakers! Once on the ground I saw the 60 amp breaker poped out. I chucked a bit and figured if I had been far from an airport I would have eventually caught it. Witih my departure airport within 10 miles, I was focused on flying the plane and getting back in one piece. I now always fly with my handheld fully charged and ready for emergency usage. Its cheep life insurance. Probable cause: I sat on the ground idling with everything on waiting for a release clearence. I figure this drained quite a bit from the battery and once airbore the alternator was putting out near maximum which caused the breaker to pop. So now you can say you heard on one triping. Its never happened again and if it did I'd likely go right to the breakers. Gary RV-6 20038 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Bob Haan <bobh(at)cdac.com>
Subject: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
RV6 regarding the 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns about which the elevator control horns rotate on the center hinge fastened to the horizontal stab: After drilling these 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns to match the location of the center bushing in the center hinge of the Horizontal Stab(FS411), the holes are to close to the torque tubes that are welded perpendicular to the horns for the AN4 bolt or nut to be turned. I can grind either the bolt or nut to clear the tube but either the nut or bolt will need to be rotated so one can not be ground. How can this be fixed without building new elevators? I noticed on plans print 5A that there is a note to not weld in the area where these bolt holes are located next to the welded torque tube in order to have clearance for the bolt head and nut. Mine are weld all the way around the torque tube. Sounds like this is a know tight area for clearance so hopefully some of you have dealt with this problem. Thanks, Bob Haan bobh(at)cdac.com Portland, OR 503-579-2729 RV6A 24461 Fuse out of jig, working on mounting tail ________________________________________________________________________________
From: REGAES(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Dull Unibit
UNIBITS ARE RADIALLY RELIEVED AND BY GRINDING THE FACE OF THE CUTTING EDGE UNTIL ALL WEAR IS REMOVED YOU WILL BE ALL SET TO AGAIN PUT THE UNIBIT TO FULL USAGE. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re:
Ken, I suggest that you buy the Sacramento Sky Ranch engine maintainance book by John Schwanner. This is available through AvWeb. A fantastic book overall and has an excellent section on engine painting. Leo Davies RV6A (and now I have to put UHMW tape in those damn baffles!?) > >0. The case has been cleaned and zygloed and is now >ready to paint. I would like to use the same paint (color and type) which I >used on the engine mount - acrylic urethane over DP-40 epoxy primer. Any >experience or recommendations about this application? > >1. Will this type paint withstand the heat on the case? On the cylinders? >2. Should the case parts be painted before or after assembly? It appeared >that Lycoming painted after assembly because the bolts were painted. > >Ken Beene email: kbeene(at)aol.com > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Fuel tank in crash (was High Temps
Hi all, Bryan Jones hit on a subject of great interest to me - I think I posted on this a few weeks ago but I've heard nothing on it so... I worry about fuel tanks in crashes since many survive the crash only to be barbecued. I have been trying to think of a way to minimize the risk of the soft aluminum fuel lines coming into the cabin. In a crash where the fuel tank is crushed, I imagine the fuel being forced under significant pressure into the cabin via the main line *AND* via the vent lines. If this happens and the lines become cut or torn open.... I thought I could put push on rubber tubing on the lines while inside the wings and hope they pop off. Then I realized that I might be actually making the crash much more likely. Then I thought maybe I could route these lines so that they would be pinched shut by the crash. Then I got back to work! I wonder if anyone has any ideas on this or has done anything to improve crashworthiness in RVs?? Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- WANTED TO BUY - a used Chevy V-6 setup. halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Shaun Maki <ee(at)europa.com>
Subject: Tandem instruments.
Attached bellow is a message I saw posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt by Dan Rihn about a new/economical tandem guage he used in his DR-109 prototype. I would like the back of my RV-8 to have limited (low-weight) guages and have been keeping my eye open for options. Today, I called Greg at Grand Rapids Technologies and found him to be very helpful. The tandem electronic front/rear guages are almost identical and intended to show what's going on under the cowl with preset alarms. Total 4-cylinder CHT/EGT tandem guage setup is $1224 with sensors. Fuel analysis/flow adds $375. The VM-1000 Van's uses in the RV-8 only has one guage for the front with similar information and is almost $3K. Grand Rapids seems to be offering two guages for half the price! $651 gets the basic guage with RPM, up to 6cylinder CHT/EGT (price comes with two sets of his higher quality cylinder sensors, $603 is the price with the other older-type sensors), oil pressure, oil temp, & volt meter with two aux inputs which are most commonly used for MAN (add $60 for sensor) and fuel pressure ($35 for the sensor). The optional fuel flow package for $375 (including a nice $280 fuel flow sending unit) adds to the guage readout total fuel on board, flow rate, and time to empty at current rate. $148 would add sensors to monitor all four cylinders in a Lycoming (today's guage reads out only two cylinders at a time and a guage which will display up to six at once is under development with a goal of having it out by Sun-N-Fun). $330 would add a nearly identical tandem guage with exact readout as the front seat (for $35 less you can get a 1/2 sized tandem display). Hope this is useful to someone. Looks to be a great way to get engine information to the back seat. Greg told me he has about 100 guages flying in RVs. FYI, -- Shaun Maki RV-8 #80496 >Subject: Re: Tandem instruments? > >In rec.aviation.homebuilt, danrihn(at)aol.com (Danrihn) wrote: > >>Check out the Engine Engine Information System from Grand Rapids >>Technologies, 616-531-4893. >>I use their system in the prototype DR-109, 2 seat tandem. It has two >> independent displays. Really nice unit for a great price. >>Dan Rihn >>Rihn Aircraft Corp. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re:
<> I ran a corrosion test once upon a time on chromate coatings (alodine). This is not to be confused with anodizing. Using 6061 and 2024 aluminum alloy samples, I baked the samples at room temperature, 120,150, 175 and 200 degrees F. for a couple of hours. The net result was corrosion resistance went away after a half an hour above 170 F. The resistance reverted to equal bare aluminum. Something to do with drying out the hydrated chromate coating. Don't bother using alodine on anything that is exposed to long term about 170 F temperatures. Paint adhesion was not effected, so if you are just using allodine for a paint base, I guess that would be OK. Although, a good cleaning would make the paint stick just as well on aluminum castings. Gene Francis, Got my can-o-peas bolted down. looking forward to a lot of fibreglas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Inspection
CONGRATULATIONS, hope all goes well. Just in the planning stages of an RV project myself. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Alternator/CS oil line interference
In a message dated 11/17/97 10:01:05, you wrote: > Has anyone else seen this problem and how did you work around it? I hate >> to make up a new line routing if I don't have to. This is the stock one >> and they are quite pricey. Thank You...! >> There are four of us with RV-6s ,180 HP, C/S and 35 Amp alternators that I know of in the Denver area. All four wound up putting a "bubble" or wart on the bottom of the cowl to accommodate the required lower position of the alternator. This only needs to add about a half inch to the clearance, which allows the alternator to drop down enough for adjustment and clearance of oil line and cowl. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)startext.net>
Subject: Re: Trimming Flap Skin
Roger Embree wrote: > It looks like the bottom portion of the top skin is not trimmed. Where > does the leading edge get trimmed to? Roger, It seems like a hundred years since I worked on flaps but I seem to recall that the upper skin at the root is trimmed to permit use of squeezer but that the leading edge and bottom remain in place to be trimmed to fit when the wing in installed on airplane. My Wing Construction Notes are parked behind the red RV-6A at http://www.flash.net/~gila You might see if there is anything there to help you. Good luck, Will Cretsinger Arlington, Tx RV-6A Installing tilt canopy and writing notes for my next RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
Bob Haan wrote: snipped > After drilling these 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns to match > the location of the center bushing in the center hinge of the Horizontal > Stab(FS411), the holes are to close to the torque tubes that are welded > perpendicular to the horns for the AN4 bolt or nut to be turned. I can > grind either the bolt or nut to clear the tube but either the nut or bolt > will need to be rotated so one can not be ground. > > How can this be fixed without building new elevators? Bob, How about substituting socket head cap screws (commonly refered to as "Allen head"screws) for the hex head aircraft screws that come in the kit. They have round heads with a diameter smaller than the hex head screws. Does anyone know if aircraft grade bolts come with socket heads? Standard socket head cap screws are grade 8, which is quite hard. Would these be suitable for Bob's application? Charlie Kuss RV8 VS priming parts tomorrow, shooting rivets Thursday Boca Raton, Fl. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: RV6 For Sale
> >Get rid of the wife and keep the SIX. > > > > You got that right! All I was trying to do was help someone purchase a >well built RV-6 who I thought wanted a good aircraft! It still stands, The guy I know of is an excellent builder and loves to build. Ed Hobenshield. ________________________________________________________________________________ <199711141101.AA2361(at)POST.TANDEM.COM> with last message <199711141101.AA2361(at)POST.TANDEM.COM>
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: E.B. procrastination - MORAL (chatter)
Is there any-one out there who may know of someone, or has mounted Skiis on a RV-6 ? Would much appreciate some imfo as I am not going to plow my strip this year. Thanks again - Ed Hobenshield, C-FXXG. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Trimming Flap Skin
<< It looks like the bottom portion of the top skin is not trimmed. Where does the leading edge get trimmed to? >> You need to wait until the wings are attached to the fuselage. Then you will mark conservatively from the beaded leading edge to the trailing edge and cut a little at a time until you just clear the fuselage. Then take a compass or other spacer set at about .125" and strike off this distance following the contour of the fuselage. Finish the skin to this line. You can install a piece of angle riveted to the fuselage at the flap root to clean up the appearance of this interface, provided you don't use the optional steps. You are correct that the bottom portion of the flap root doesn't get trimmed. The bottom must be long enough to cover the flap link access holes when the flaps are retracted, so mark where the flaps end prior to enlarging these holes in the fuselage. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Question on construction videos - Also first post
> >> >> >><< Also, I just turned 30, >> > people with a lot more experience/confidence/ability then I >> >suspect >> I jumped in with both feet when I was 27 and was flying by 32. . >> Ryan >> >> >> >> Ryan & Co. - I started when I was 18, got delayed till 32, & yes I am 48 >>now but really wished I had not wasted that time between. I now fly a >>completed RV, after 5 or so years, and have kept my flying up with C-185s >>& to Champ between. > >If you can work with old buggers such as guys like me, they will give you a >lot of help & encouragement. Don't despair, we have all been there!!! > >Good luck on your project. --- Ed - C-FXXG. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Alternator/CS oil line interference
<> You can of course rotate the rear plate on the governor if you remove the screws and clock the plate differently without removing it. This may put the lever and stops in a position that is more conducive to a good fit. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: Gear leg fairing comparison
It seems I have a couple of choices in gear leg fairings: Tracy Saylor's are $195, made for the RV-6, and come with a bracket to attach them securely to the gear leg with hose clamp. Mark (Mlfred(at)aol.com) sells a set for $150. I've heard that Mark's are thicker (dimension perpendicular to the chord) than required for an RV-6, because they're designed for the Harmon Rocket's beefier gear legs. True? Mark's fairings rely on the intersection fairing to hold their orientation, as I understand it. Any comments on reasons for picking one over the other? Feel free to respond to me on or off list. Thanks, Tim Lewis ------------------------------------ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 Springfield VA timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or timrv6a(at)iname.com ------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: air compressor
> > I'm gearing up for my first RV project and am in need of a new air >compressor. The new oilless styles seem common now and more attractively >priced. I would like to know some builders' opinions. Are they as reliable >long term? How about tank size? > NOISEY!!! Listen to them run and listen to a belt drive run. You'll buy the belt drive. I live in an apartment complex with attached garages. My garage happens to be under my neighbor's apartment. When I run my belt drive 6 HP Campbell-Hausfeld ($~380 at Home Depot) the neighbors say it sounds like a bathroom fan running (their words). Also, you don't NEED 6 HP but when it runs it pumps up quick so you don't listen to the noise very long. Mike McGee sn23530 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
One thing you might consider is a high temp all-metal self locking nut which has a somewhat smaller diameter than a regular AN365 nut. This would be an MS21042-4 and is a common item at aircraft hardware suppliers. I used these on my brake mounting flanges on my first -6A because "someone" drilled the holes too close to the flanges! The other thing that might work, if the hole isn't too close, is to use a ground off washer or two to get out far enough from the weld to achieve turning clearance. Of course, this would require a little longer bolt. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA RV6 regarding the 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns about which the elevator control horns rotate on the center hinge fastened to the horizontal stab: After drilling these 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns to match the location of the center bushing in the center hinge of the Horizontal Stab(FS411), the holes are to close to the torque tubes that are welded perpendicular to the horns for the AN4 bolt or nut to be turned. I can grind either the bolt or nut to clear the tube but either the nut or bolt will need to be rotated so one can not be ground. How can this be fixed without building new elevators? I noticed on plans print 5A that there is a note to not weld in the area where these bolt holes are located next to the welded torque tube in order to have clearance for the bolt head and nut. Mine are weld all the way around the torque tube. Sounds like this is a know tight area for clearance so hopefully some of you have dealt with this problem. Thanks, Bob Haan bobh(at)cdac.com Portland, OR 503-579-2729 RV6A 24461 Fuse out of jig, working on mounting tail ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding
>I recevied today from B&C Specialty a 24 position ground bus. > >The ground bus has blade type connections rather than the screws >that I would have expected. Has anyone ever had a problem with >these losing contact, or coming off? Craig: I used a similar ground bus in my RV-6. I used spade connectors for the ground bus, my fuse block and probably 80% of the other electrical connections. (All of the probes which came with my VM 1000 engine monitor also use spade connections.) I haven't had any problems with connections loosening, and don't expect any in the future. I did have problems getting the connectors apart! They grip tight; a few times I had to resort to pliers to separate them. To get a tight connection, it is imperative that you use a good quality connector. Some of the connectors that you see in the home centers and auto parts stores are next to useless. (See Bob Nuckolls' dissertation on connectors in the AeroElectric Connection.) Mark Nielsen RV-6, flying. 146 hours since April 97. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6ator(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1997
Subject: looking to buy RV4
I am looking for a good clean RV-4 for a friend. Prefer 150/160 hp, minimum equipment VFR ship. Please reply to: Bill Mahoney Sherman, CT 860-354-6933 RV6ator(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: zero G's
Date: Nov 13, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RV-List: zero G's > >What condition actually causes a carburated engine to quit as the plane >goes negative? Good Question. > It seems to me that as it passes thru less than 1 G the >float becomes less buoyant, since the density of the fuel is less, The fuel density is not changed by the G force neither is the density of the float At Zero G the fuel and the float weigh the same, Zero. Their mass however is different. > which opens the valve and overflows the bowl and the engine quits, >being too rich. Possibly doubtful. If this does happen it is the fuel pump pushing on the needle and with no force on the float it opens. > However, perhaps the inertia inertia is what Gs are. No Gs inertia. > I am experiencing my engine quitting on what seems mild G ratings, like >simply pushing the nose over at 1/2 G. This is not normal. It should run until your sunglasses start floating off the glareshield. > What is the best criterion for sizing the jets, The carb overhaul manual. >kevin 6A O-320 D2J 160hp Kevin, I don't have an answer to your question, my guess is that the fuel is floating around in the bowl and unports the jet. Don't know and can't prove it but that is my best guess. I really don't think it goes rich. OTOH John Mohr (Stearman airshow pilot with no equal) does a slow roll with a stock stearman about 40 ft in the air and the engine quits.(so does my heart) When it comes around the fire flies about 20 ft down the side of fuse, But he is pumping the throttle all the way around. I'll ask John, he would know the answer to this question, but I won't see him for a while. He went to Thailand for an Airshow (Stearman and Helicopter in a 747). Then the economy crashed over there and the promoter went broke. Can't pay to get their airplanes home. The Northern Lights are in the same boat. No pun intended. Electric Bob is thinking, serves them airshow pilots right ;-) Tailwinds, -4 N240 Doug Rozendaal dougr(at)petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com>
Subject: Re: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
> >Bob Haan wrote: >snipped >> After drilling these 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns to match >> the location of the center bushing in the center hinge of the Horizontal >> Stab(FS411), the holes are to close to the torque tubes that are welded >> perpendicular to the horns for the AN4 bolt or nut to be turned. I can >> grind either the bolt or nut to clear the tube but either the nut or bolt >> will need to be rotated so one can not be ground. >> >> How can this be fixed without building new elevators? > >Bob, >How about substituting socket head cap screws (commonly refered to as >"Allen head"screws) for the hex head aircraft screws that come in the >kit. They have round heads with a diameter smaller than the hex head >screws. Does anyone know if aircraft grade bolts come with socket heads? >Standard socket head cap screws are grade 8, which is quite hard. Would >these be suitable for Bob's application? > the hardness or strength of the capscrews may not be the issue here. Usually these bolts have more thread than bearing surface(grip) therefore will probably not work for this application.I am not sure if there are AN capscrews available, any screws I have ever seen have those #*!!@ Philip heads. Marc DeGirolamo RV-4 attatching tail to fuse Saskatoon, Canada mdee(at)dlcwest.com Marc DeGirolamo RV-4 Saskatoon,SK. Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1997
From: Larry Schrader <leschrader(at)dvsdghse.com>
Subject: fuselage jig
I have a fuselage jig for a RV-4 that I have to liquidate to make room for a finish kit. It is of wood and metal construction that is broken down into 3 sections that will easly fit into a pickup. Mine is the second RV to be built on this jig and it's still in very good condition. The first $50 takes it. I am located in Barstow, CA. contact me at leschrader(at)dvsdghse.com or my home phone 760-256-8002 after 6pm. Larry Schrader RV-4, fuselage ready for finish kit Still squashin rivits :^) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WBWard(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Buying a partially completed
<< Should I buy it, and if so, what should I watch out for? >> First you find out why the guy/gal decided not to finish the kit. Some reasons are better than others. Next, you check for quality. Quality of workmanship and kit content, that makes this a SAFE purchase for you. Remember who is going to be sitting behind the instrument panel, and flying this thing at speeds of over twice what the legal highway speeds are, in most states. Make sure you get all the blueprints, along with a bill of sale, which will allow you to transfer ownership of the kit to you. Factory support can be a very valuable commodity, and to get that, you need the serial number of the airframe. Take a good inventory. Finish building the kit to factory specifications, at a minimum, and pour as much of your own quality into it as is possible. Remember, there are OLD pilots, and there are BOLD pilots, but there are NO OLD BOLD pilots. The same concept applies to aircraft builder/pilots. Regards Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternator/CS oil line interference
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 18, 1997
That is exactly how the gov. was designed, to be able to adjust it for proper orientation on many different airplanes. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Buying a partially completed
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Paul, I have done quite a few pre buy inspections on projects and completed RV's. The best advice I can give anyone is to find someone in the area not connected in any way with the owner of the project (or completed RV), that has completed and flown an RV them self to do an inspection for you. The next best thing would be someone who has nearly finished one. It is a real plus to find someone that built an exceptionally nice RV (well known in that particular area) for you can be sure that they will look with a critical eye and give you a thorough report. example - I have inspected projects that range from slightly better than the quickbuild workmanship to a project needing a lot of rework because the entire airframe had rivets only driven half way. Someone else bought that one, and to this day I wonder If they know what the inside of the wings and emp. are like. Under driven rivets are easy to detect but a lot of things are not. I guess my main point is that it is hard to tell you what to look for. It's best that someone with experience on the whole air frame takes a look. Hope this is of help. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Like I said in my initial post. I hadn't heard of alt breaker problems but that If it is a problem then it would warrant using a different circuit design. Now I have heard of a couple and it probably is worth while. So I can say that I have gained some knowledge from the original question being raised. The thing that bothers me about this RV-list is that every time a question is raised about anything electrical It seems that people are given the third degree if there opinion doesn't match someone else's. I know that there are members who have professional/expert back grounds in different fields and I think it is great that they take the time to provide their expertise to other RV builders (for free no less). But if only the experts were the ones providing information this list would be very limited in value to the average RV builder. Does anyone else agree? I will probably refrain from offering my "opinion" on subjects electrical in nature in the future, but this is done with no hard feelings toward anyone. I would just prefer to see some of the discussions handled a little differently in the future so that more people would be willing to offer their experiences without fear of criticism. Is this an Incorrect point of view? Sincerely Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mitch Robbins" <robm(at)am2.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank in crash (was High Temps
Date: Nov 18, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" Crashworthiness is of great concern to me also. Every fatality due to post impact fire is indeed tragic, however, my experience is that only about 1 in 10 fatal airplane accidents result in any kind of fire. IMHO The forces in a typical survivable impact scenerio generally are in the downward and/or forward directions. Fuel tanks are generally distorted and ruptured very early in the impact sequence if they are going to. Fuel sprays everywhere!!! A fire will only ignite if the correct mixture of vaporized fuel is in the same space as an ignition source, usually firewall forward. i.e. An internal postimpact leak through a line will probably be of little significance. Airworthiness is paramount, crashworthiness is only a plus. I've posted examples of a few investigations I've worked on the am2 website at http://am2.com/consulting/cases.htm and http://am2.com/consulting/how.htm Mitch Robbins > >Hi all, > >Bryan Jones hit on a subject of great interest to me - I think I posted on this >a few weeks ago but I've heard nothing on it so... > >I worry about fuel tanks in crashes since many survive the crash only to be >barbecued. I have been trying to think of a way to minimize the risk of the >soft aluminum fuel lines coming into the cabin. In a crash where the fuel tank >is crushed, I imagine the fuel being forced under significant pressure into the >cabin via the main line *AND* via the vent lines. If this happens and the lines >become cut or torn open.... > >I thought I could put push on rubber tubing on the lines while inside the wings >and hope they pop off. Then I realized that I might be actually making the >crash much more likely. Then I thought maybe I could route these lines so that >they would be pinched shut by the crash. Then I got back to work! > >I wonder if anyone has any ideas on this or has done anything to improve >crashworthiness in RVs?? > > >Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- WANTED TO BUY - a used Chevy V-6 setup. >halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Re: Gear leg fairings
I'm a good beta dummy, I mean tester! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcowens126(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Fuel tank in crash (was High Temps
The best method of improving crashworthiness is to keep all fuel and lines out of the cockpit. Install all fuel tanks at the wing tips ala Cessna 310. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: "Anderson Ed" <AndersonE(at)bah.com>
Subject: Mazda 13B installation photographs
Charlie, Got the photos, thanks Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: zero G's
kevin lane wrote: ++++snip+++ > I am experiencing my engine quitting on what seems mild G ratings, like > simply pushing the nose over at 1/2 G. Having little prior experience with > Lycomings I don't know if this is normal or not for a larger displacement > carburated engine. I was wondering if the float level or mixture could be > a factor. The float measures all of a 1/64" too low when using the 7/32" > drill bit method specified in the metal float AD directions. It's hard to > believe that would make a difference. My engine originally was in a 172. > Someone said that the carb. could be jetted differently depending on what > plane it was in originally. What is the best criterion for sizing the > jets, mixture knob pull, spark plug color, absolute EGT temps? > kevin 6A O-320 D2J 160hp > Kevin I quess when you called me about this my answer was not good enough but I will say it again "When you are floating your handheld radio you are not doing a mild pushover" also if you are going to be doing the aerobatics in your RV that I have heard you are doing you should get a G-meter and use it at least till you get a little more used to the airplane. Personally I don't think the 32 hours you have in your RV is enough time to be doing some of the things you are doing especially with out a g-meter. Jerry (flight instructor mode off now) Springer -- Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Re: Buying a partially completed
Yes it is a help. Maybe I can find someone to look it over....Does anyone know of an accomplished rv-4 builder in the Niagra Falls area? > >Paul, > I have done quite a few pre buy inspections on projects and >completed RV's. The best advice I can give anyone is to find someone in >the area not connected in any way with the owner of the project (or >completed RV), that has completed and flown an RV them self to do an >inspection for you. The next best thing would be someone who has nearly >finished one. It is a real plus to find someone that built an >exceptionally nice RV (well known in that particular area) for you can be >sure that they will look with a critical eye and give you a thorough >report. > >example - I have inspected projects that range from slightly better than >the quickbuild workmanship to a project needing a lot of rework because >the entire airframe had rivets only driven half way. >Someone else bought that one, and to this day I wonder If they know what >the inside of the wings and emp. are like. > >Under driven rivets are easy to detect but a lot of things are not. >I guess my main point is that it is hard to tell you what to look for. >It's best that someone with experience on the whole air frame takes a >look. > >Hope this is of help. Scott Mc > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
> >Bob Haan wrote: >snipped >> After drilling these 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns to match >> the location of the center bushing in the center hinge of the Horizontal >> Stab(FS411), the holes are to close to the torque tubes that are welded >> perpendicular to the horns for the AN4 bolt or nut to be turned. I can >> grind either the bolt or nut to clear the tube but either the nut or bolt >> will need to be rotated so one can not be ground. >> >> How can this be fixed without building new elevators? > >Bob, >How about substituting socket head cap screws (commonly refered to as >"Allen head"screws) for the hex head aircraft screws that come in the >kit. They have round heads with a diameter smaller than the hex head >screws. Does anyone know if aircraft grade bolts come with socket heads? >Standard socket head cap screws are grade 8, which is quite hard. Would >these be suitable for Bob's application? > >Charlie Kuss >RV8 VS priming parts tomorrow, shooting rivets Thursday >Boca Raton, Fl. I have some 12 point AN bolts that I got from somewhere. (probably Rockwell (B-1 Parts)) These bolts have an integral "shoulder" but are still smaller than a standard Hex. head. Look for some of these. If you need the numbers off of them E-mail me privately. Al ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator/CS oil line interference
For what it's worth, I have the case-mount alternator bracket from B&C Speciaties, and there is no interference between it and the prop governor oil line. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Grounding
>So I can say that I have gained some knowledge from the original question >being raised. > >The thing that bothers me about this RV-list is that every time a >question is raised about anything electrical It seems that people are >given the third degree if there opinion doesn't match someone else's. I >know that there are members who have professional/expert back grounds in >different fields and I think it is great that they take the time to >provide their expertise to other RV builders (for free no less). > >But if only the experts were the ones providing information this list >would be very limited in value to the average RV builder. > >Does anyone else agree? I can't Disagree! >I will probably refrain from offering my "opinion" on subjects electrical >in nature in the future, but this is done with no hard feelings toward >anyone. I have tried to refrain also. Re: Engeneering, Technical. >I would just prefer to see some of the discussions handled a little >differently in the future so that more people would be willing to offer >their experiences without fear of criticism. > >Is this an Incorrect point of view? No! > Sincerely > Scott Mc Scott, When I replied to the question regarding auto engines and aerobatics with a rather flippant PSRU's and gyroscopic forces I received some "stuff" from so called experienced experts. I also received some legitimate queries about why I felt that way. I researched my aviation references and sent the appropriate references to gyroscopic forces on PSRU's to the inquiring parties. I think they at least found them interesting and since the articles were written by experieced engineers and were published for peer review I think maybe I was vindicated. I believe it is fair to ask someone why and how they have formed their oppinion and any supporting references they may be able to present, But to just ridicule or blatantly blow off someone because thats not where they have a degree is a mistake. I have the greatest respect for Bob N. and his posts and think that he has a very tactfull approach to voiceing his oppinions but I really like to hear what others have to say about the related topics also. I bet Bob would be the first to agree! Al ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: The case for critical thinking . . .
>Like I said in my initial post. I hadn't heard of alt breaker problems >but that If it is a problem then it would warrant using a different >circuit design. Now I have heard of a couple and it probably is worth >while. > >So I can say that I have gained some knowledge from the original question >being raised. > >The thing that bothers me about this RV-list is that every time a >question is raised about anything electrical It seems that people are >given the third degree if there opinion doesn't match someone else's. I >know that there are members who have professional/expert back grounds in >different fields and I think it is great that they take the time to >provide their expertise to other RV builders (for free no less). Scott, I'm sorry you feel that way . . . but then it's difficult to deduce the tone of conversation from words written on a screen in front of you. Perhaps this bit of modern philosophy would be helpful in defining what I believe the goals and strengths of these list servers are and should be: Carl Sagan has written a number of books on science and the acute need for the ordinary citizen to develope skills in critical thinking. When you have sitting presidents conferring with astrologers and the Congress of the United States disolving their advisory committee on science, it does not bode well for our faith in authority. Even at our lowly levels of existence, people with power and no knowledge cost us time, dollars and freedoms. E.g., the FAA is making broad moves to require Form 337 submissions on even the most trivial modifications to certified airplanes. I'm doing an article on Form 337 issues that will appear on our website in a few days. In a nutshell, the ability of the front line regulator to deduce in a logical manner what parts of an airplane affect airworthiness and those that don't is erroding rapidly. Given no intellectual tools to remedy the situation, there is no choice but to make EVERYTHING critical to continued flight. I'm sure you can see where that is leading us. >But if only the experts were the ones providing information this list >would be very limited in value to the average RV builder. > >Does anyone else agree? I really don't like the word "expert" very much . . . what does it mean? Let's put some critical thinking to it. How do you determine the point at which someone becomes an expert? Where do you draw the line and how do you judge the qualifications of someone who steps over it? I've been doing this stuff for 35 years and I can write reasonably well about it but does that make me an expert? I've had people working for me with more time and who did a lot of writing who couldn't hook two wires together and explain what they were doing. I'd like to believe the difference between us was the willingness and ability to gather facts, be skeptical of all, defend those that stand up to today's critical review but remain willing to give up those that fall short tomorrow for whatever reason. >I will probably refrain from offering my "opinion" on subjects electrical >in nature in the future, but this is done with no hard feelings toward >anyone. Please don't do that . . . I'm sorry if I came off as adversarial and unfriendly, I DO get enthusiastic about probing into an idea and when I work thought a hundred list-server pieces a day, I can't take the time to reflect long on how my words may be perceived. Please understand that what I'm doing on these lists is expanding my own knowledge. Those who choose to arm- wrestle with me are helping that process and I hope they receive as much benefit from it as I do. I've learned more about airplanes in the last 10 years working on experimentals as I did the first 25 years working certified ships. Having said that, know that I WILL continue to ask that people who bring forth any piece of advice be able to explain it's foundations; that's the critical thinking process that we all need to learn and practice. > >I would just prefer to see some of the discussions handled a little >differently in the future so that more people would be willing to offer >their experiences without fear of criticism. >Is this an Incorrect point of view? I think it may be. If people do not participate in moving ideas forward, the "tomorrow" I mentioned never comes. We become mired down in traditional techniques and thinking. Let's work together to make sure we're building the best airplanes that ever existed. Scott, if we ever hold a weekend seminar convenient to where you live, I'll offer this invitation to attend tuition free . . . and I'll buy lunch. I hope we have a chance to sit down and get to know each other . . . I know it's difficult to do from the keyboards. But in the meantime, please hang in there . . . if you've been working with airplanes very long there's some things you know that I don't and we would all like to hear about it. Just remember, we criticize ideas here, not people. Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com>
Subject: Rudder
Does anyone know the amount of degree movement for the rudder. The gap between my vertical stabilzer and rudder is larger at the top then bottom? Joe/fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net>
Subject: Re: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
> >> >>Bob Haan wrote: >>snipped >>> After drilling these 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns to match >>> the location of the center bushing in the center hinge of the Horizontal >>> Stab(FS411), the holes are to close to the torque tubes that are welded >>> perpendicular to the horns for the AN4 bolt or nut to be turned. I can >>> grind either the bolt or nut to clear the tube but either the nut or bolt >>> will need to be rotated so one can not be ground. >>> >>> How can this be fixed without building new elevators? >> >>Bob, >>How about substituting socket head cap screws (commonly refered to as >>"Allen head"screws) for the hex head aircraft screws that come in the >>kit. They have round heads with a diameter smaller than the hex head >>screws. Does anyone know if aircraft grade bolts come with socket heads? >>Standard socket head cap screws are grade 8, which is quite hard. Would >>these be suitable for Bob's application? >> >>Charlie Kuss >>RV8 VS priming parts tomorrow, shooting rivets Thursday >>Boca Raton, Fl. > >I have some 12 point AN bolts that I got from somewhere. (probably Rockwell >(B-1 Parts)) These bolts have an integral "shoulder" but are still smaller >than a standard Hex. head. Look for some of these. If you need the >numbers off of them E-mail me privately. Al > > Can you use a socket set with a universal joint on one side or the other and an end wrench to hold it on the other side? > > > Bruce Knoll RV6A to be QB Empennage Arrived ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jensen, Keith (MC R&D)" <KJensen(at)simplot.com>
Subject: Fuel tank in crash
Date: Nov 18, 1997
halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) wrote: ...many survive the crash only to be barbecued... a way to minimize the risk of the soft aluminum fuel lines coming into the cabin. I'm new to all this (will be putting an empennage kit under the tree in six weeks). I was wondering if stainless steel tubing can be used inside the cabin for fuel lines (esp. heavy wall tubing like 0.062" wall). Sure, you have to invest in a tubing bender to make good bends, but it won't rupture or tear like aluminum. Is vibration-induced cracking likely to be a problem? Any comments on this thought? Keith Jensen kjensen(at)simplot.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rudder
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> >Does anyone know the amount of degree movement for the rudder. The gap >between my vertical stabilzer and rudder is larger at the top then bottom? > 30 to 35 degrees, per the construction manual (section 15). I had to go with 33 degrees. Even at that, the left rudder cable end fitting interferes with the forwardmost hole in the fuselage bulkhead, when the cable is in the rearmost position. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: eprth(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle)
Subject: Re: RE HS 607
Hi, How close should the first rivet be from the tip of the HS 607. Also any info on bucking in that area would be great. (ie do we have to use pop rivets? asking for a friend Tim Houle RV6 empennage *************************** Tim Houle email: eprth(at)kneehill.com *************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N95MF(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: RV-8 fuselage jig available
Fellow listors-I have an RV-8 fuselage jig that I am done with. I am in Austin, Texas. It is wood (redwood and fir), and would maybe like to reimbursed for the cost of materials ($60-$70).E-mail me off list at N95MF(at)aol.com. Mark Goldberg #80087 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: John Walsh <walsh@matrix-one.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank in crash (was High Temps
> >Crashworthiness is of great concern to me also. Every fatality due to post >impact fire is indeed tragic, however, my experience is that only about 1 in >10 fatal airplane accidents result in any kind of fire. > >IMHO The forces in a typical survivable impact scenerio generally are in the >downward and/or forward directions. Fuel tanks are generally distorted and >ruptured very early in the impact sequence if they are going to. Fuel >sprays everywhere!!! A fire will only ignite if the correct mixture of >vaporized fuel is in the same space as an ignition source, usually firewall >forward. i.e. An internal postimpact leak through a line will probably be >of little significance. Hi Mitch, Welcome to the private sector and good luck with your new business. I believe that your note implies the following: 1. It's unlikely that we will be able to make our fuel tanks crashworthy in small planes in general. 2. The key to preventing a fire is to prevent the fuel from being ignited. 2B. The most likely source of ignition is the hot engine. With this in mind, have you come across any accidents where a halon and/or other engine fire suppression mechanism was used? Do you think such a thing has practical value? Also, is there any statistical evidence to support my personal phobia about header tanks? I think putting 5 gals of gas about 2 feet behind a hot exhaust system is the dumbest idea I've ever heard of. However, I have no concrete reason for feeling this way. Later John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Scott Mcd-Grounding
>Like I said in my initial post. I hadn't heard of alt breaker problems >but that If it is a problem then it would warrant using a different >circuit design. Now I have heard of a couple and it probably is worth >while. Here's another one: My wife and I were flying a rented C-152 at night. On short final, I noticed that the lights got a little dimmer and the alternator whine disappeared from the audio. We landed, stoped and discovered that the alternator FIELD breaker had tripped. We reset the breaker, couldn't find anything else wrong, and flew back home. >The thing that bothers me about this RV-list is that every time a >question is raised about anything electrical It seems that people are >given the third degree if there opinion doesn't match someone else's. I admit, I've felt this way before when someone disagreed or had another opinion on some question I've posted to the list. But then I would stop, pull my head out of the sand, and listen. And almost always, I would learn something. One of the most important things I've learned is to listen to all sides of a discussion, and then decide what's best for me and my aircraft. >But if only the experts were the ones providing information this list >would be very limited in value to the average RV builder. True. But there are certain people on the list who's messages I always read first. >I would just prefer to see some of the discussions handled a little >differently in the future so that more people would be willing to offer >their experiences without fear of criticism. How would you like to see them handled? I work for American Airlines, doing avionics maintenance on Airbus aircraft for AA and Fed Ex. I have a lot of experience doing this, but no experience on ga aircraft. One of the things I value the most from my co-workers is constructive criticism. The same goes for my project out in the garage. Sometimes though, it's hard to see the constructive angle in some of the criticism. I think one of the biggest bonehead questions I've ever posted to the list was about connecting the main ground wire to one of the engine mount bolts. What was I thinking! Boy I got some dandy replies to that one. I don't think the replies I've seen to your post were that critical, but that's just my opinion. One more thing, Airbus uses fast-on tab type connectors in lots of places on their A-300 and A-310 aircraft, and so does the LaBoyteaux aircraft company. >Is this an Incorrect point of view? > Sincerely > Scott Mc Who's to say if it's correct or not? But thanks for sharing it. Mark LaBoyteaux Broken Arrow, Ok mlaboyteau(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Bob Nuckolls <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: re: Critical Thinking (was Grounding)
> . . . . . . .I believe it is fair to ask someone >why and how they have formed their oppinion and any supporting references >they may be able to present, But to just ridicule or blatantly blow off >someone because thats not where they have a degree is a mistake. I have the >greatest respect for Bob N. and his posts and think that he has a very >tactfull approach to voiceing his oppinions but I really like to hear what >others have to say about the related topics also. I bet Bob would be the >first to agree! Al, you betcha! I used to work with an engineer who was always whipping out a piece of paper and a pencil and saying "show me." This was before calculators and only a few of us carried slide rules. More than once I my original premise failed a "back-of-the-envelope-sanity- check" but EVERY time I walked away stronger. Never did he make me feel like I was dumb or misguided . . . rather stalled at some point in the evolution of an idea. EVENTUALLY, if I studied it enough on my own, I would have arrived at the same conclusion. Being able to work in a group applies collective understanding to an idea which will leap-frog ahead of solitary study and deduction. More importantly, it spreads the benefits of the result. Further, critical review of ideas roots out hearsay and superstition . . . aviation has plenty of that floating around. Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HinkleyC(at)fca.gov
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Grounding
* * * * The views expressed in this EMail are my own and do not represent the policy or position * * * * * * * * of the Farm Credit Administration. * * * * Scott, Your input to the RV-List is very important to everyone on the list. You have the practical experience of building several RV's which gives you a lot of knowledge that the rest of us want you to share. As a first time RV builder I enjoy your replies and the replies from other builders that have worked through all of the task that RV builders are faced with. Curtis Hinkley RV-8 N815RV reserved CHink11769 @ aol.com hinkleyc(at)fca.gov I will probably refrain from offering my "opinion" on subjects electrical in nature in the future, but this is done with no hard feelings toward anyone. I would just prefer to see some of the discussions handled a little differently in the future so that more people would be willing to offer their experiences without fear of criticism. Is this an Incorrect point of view? Sincerely Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Stanley Blanton <75472.372(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Fuselage Interior Painting
Re: Interior painting, I think it is much easier to paint the interior before any of the wiring, rudder cables, vent lines or fuel lines are done. I painted anything that was permanently attached. In addition I made templates for firewall/sidewall insulation before the various lines and wires were installed. This way you don't have to try and get the patterns behind the various lines/wiring bundles. Stan Blanton RV-6 interior sysytems 75472.372(at)compuserve.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: caummisa(at)arn.net (Richard Caummisar)
Subject: Re: The case for critical thinking . . .
Awsome informative philisophical professional interesting post...... Don't forget to send your donation to Matt Dralle for providing this forum : ) >>But if only the experts were the ones providing information this list >>would be very limited in value to the average RV builder. >> >>Does anyone else agree? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
Subject: Allison throttle body.
I know a man who has a Allison throttle body injection unit for sale. It has been factory rebuilt a few months ago and looks brand new. He said he would take half what a new one costs. I would like it myself but I need radios before I spend money on "niceties". ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4PatA(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Autopilot
If there is anyone who has installed a navaid (or other) autopilot on a -4, could you please describe the installation? Mine has footwells for rear passenger, which might limit the space for the servo. Pat Allender, Iowa City RV 4 Pat A(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: engine baffling
Dear list, This is actually a paint question but I selfishly kept the dreaded word out of the subject header to avoid delete keys. I wondered if people were priming/painting their engine baffles. I have this optimistic thought that the general oilyness (?sp) of the engine compartment might lead to a low corrosion environment. I suspect paint is going to rub off the baffles at many sites anyway (lots of sliding vibrating surfaces). I am not sure how temperature tolerant my primer is. The construction of the baffles is such that there is no logical point at which all/some of the bits declare themselves ready for painting. I'm looking for an excuse not to paint these bits. Is there an accepted view? Cheers, Leo Davies RV6A slow going in front of the firewall ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Brake mounts
From: donspawn(at)juno.com (Don R. Jordan)
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Need to order my fuselage. Which brake mount assy should I order? ( floor or overhead) Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net>
Subject: Re: Autopilot
Pat, I met a guy from Tennessee at a flyin recently, sorry I can't remember his name or N-number. He installed a Navaid autopilot in his purple RV4 and I believe he installed it under a panel where the rear passenger footwell would have been. It eliminated the installation of a footwell on the right side of the area in question. Naturally he didn't install a footwell on the left side either. -- Chet Razer crazer(at)egyptian.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com>
Subject: Re: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
> >Bob Haan wrote: >snipped >> After drilling these 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns to match >> the location of the center bushing in the center hinge of the Horizontal >> Stab(FS411), the holes are to close to the torque tubes that are welded >> perpendicular to the horns for the AN4 bolt or nut to be turned. I can >> grind either the bolt or nut to clear the tube but either the nut or bolt >> will need to be rotated so one can not be ground. >> >> How can this be fixed without building new elevators? How about putting some AN washers on each side of the nut and bolt. Then trim the washers to clear the tube. This may then position the nut and bolt far enough away to use. Regards, Tom Velvick rver(at)caljet.com rv-6 wings Phoenix, AZ USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SkyDoc2(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Fuel tank in crash (was High Temps
If one is worried about post impact fire we could all learn from the auto racing community. The use of non exploding fuel cells is required and very easy to adapt to our tank. Putting polyether safety foam into the tanks and a built in fire suppression unit should greatly improve our safety. These products are available at any racing store and add no more than a few pounds. How many Indy car drivers are now killed by fire ? With a few simple improvements, we can greatly improve the safety of our sport. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Harmonic Dampner
Has anyone on the list put one of Mark Landoll Harmonic dampners on an RV with the new constant speed cowl. As far as I can tell it looks like some major triming is going to have to be done behind the spinner. Not looking forward to doing that. Craig ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank in crash
> > I was wondering if stainless steel tubing can be used inside the > cabin for fuel lines (esp. heavy wall tubing like 0.062" wall). Sure, > you have to invest in a tubing bender to make good bends, but it won't > rupture or tear like aluminum. Is vibration-induced cracking likely to > be a problem? > > Any comments on this thought? > > Keith Jensen > kjensen(at)simplot.com > > I used steel braided hose, not for crash protection, but for ease of installation. bending the alu tubing was a big pain so I decided to go with the aeroquip hose. If it gives, flexes, and does not rupture during an "incident" so much the better. The cost takes a little getting used to. Craig Hiers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: Fuselage Interior Painting
Date: Nov 18, 1997
I also have been looking into the interior painting, and so far the advice seems like the blind leading the blind. I am using the same primer wash from Sherwin Williams as Scott McDaniels is using. I went to the dealer with the following questions: How do you prep primer wash that is over a year old before interior paint. ? sand it. ? re prime it. The dealer spent lots of time looking for something to read without any help. So I asked for the factory tech. number. Calling the factory back east and talking to a tech. type named Jeff was worse. He said to just wash the old primer off. I said Huh? he said yep just wash it off and you can see it run down the drain, I said "your kidding me right?" He read of the Numbers I have on the can, to me and they indicated we were talking about the same thing. Instead of asking him what he was smoking I just hung up. reflecting on this, I believe he was talking about another product even tho he verified we were talking about the same thing. How have others handled this. Scotch bright old stuff? Just wipe with MEK and reprime. Use a blow torch the whole works or what (tongue in cheek guys) Cecil Hatfield writes: >Re: Interior painting, > >I think it is much easier to paint the interior before any of the >wiring, >rudder cables, vent lines or fuel lines are done. I painted anything >that >was permanently attached. In addition I made templates for >firewall/sidewall insulation before the various lines and wires were >installed. This way you don't have to try and get the patterns behind >the >various lines/wiring bundles. > >Stan Blanton >RV-6 interior sysytems >75472.372(at)compuserve.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mitch Robbins" <robm(at)am2.com>
Subject: Fire suppression, crashworthiness
Date: Nov 18, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" >1. It's unlikely that we will be able to make our fuel tanks crashworthy in >small planes in > general. >2. The key to preventing a fire is to prevent the fuel from being ignited. > 2B. The most likely source of ignition is the hot engine. > >With this in mind, have you come across any accidents where a halon and/or >other engine fire suppression mechanism was used? Do you think such a >thing has practical value? > >Also, is there any statistical evidence to support my personal phobia about >header tanks? I think putting 5 gals of gas about 2 feet behind a hot >exhaust system is the dumbest idea I've ever heard of. However, I have no >concrete reason for feeling this way. > OK - you asked for the thesis!!! That's a pretty good analysis of what I said. I guess I still have too much "fed" in me and didn't say it straight. I certainly don't want to suppress any of the creative ideas about this subject that come up. This is the reason we're all homebuilders. There is an entire spectrum of "crashworthiness." The most common scenario for a fire in a survivable GA accident is probably a low speed, high angle impact, such as with a low energy stall or spin. This keeps the parts and the fuel in the same general location and results in a "pool" fire. High speed accidents are less survivable and low impact angles tend to spread things out enough that there is less chance of ignition and flammable mixture coming together. Foams and honeycomb within tanks were developed by the military and are intended to inhibit flame propagation within the tank. Although a 707 with foam in the tanks was intentionally impacted a while ago as a test. This is an entirely different subject unless you plan on having incendiary projectiles penetrate your homebuilt fuel tanks. Halon production is banned under international treaty. Industry and military are stockpiling it until something as effective is discovered. Many military planes have areas inerted or suppressed including tanks, nacelles, cargo holds, and passenger compartments. Halon is used everyday on engine fires and is still the best. Using halon properly, a breathable environment can be produced that will not support combustion. The military has switched some systems to nitrogen. A larger volume percent is required for effective suppression. I know of several homebuilders who have installed plumbing and suppression systems. I don't know of one that was used. I don't have any stats on header tank susceptibility, but I haven't personally noted any difference. If a tank ruptures, the fuel sprays and runs everywhere. In an impact crater, it doesn't matter if it originated inside the fuse or outside! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ?
Charlie Kuss wrote: > > > Curt Reimer wrote: > snipped > > I designed a 6, 6A and 8 for MS flight sim 5.1. Although they can be converted to work with fs98, the flight model needs some > > tweaking. > > Curt, > Will the file work with FS 95? If so, I'd like a copy. That way I won't > have to wait till I get the fuselage kit done to make motor noises!! :-) > The problem is the same with FS95 unfortunately. I can only offer you the FS5.1 version for now. Curt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: AD list/Service bulletins
Kelli Lewis wrote: > > > Is there an internet listing of AD's and/or service bulletins? I'm looking > for Lycoming AD's. OR if anyone has a list of AD's on Lycimings since 1994, > that would be helpful. Try this: http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Manuf.html It's on Greg Travis' Home Page Curt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ?
aol.com!JNice51355(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > Say, did your ADD-ON work for MS Flight Sim 6.0? That is what I am currently > using. It would really be neat to have RV's installed, since I am > planning on beginning an RV6 real soon!! No, it has the same problem in FS95 (FS6.0). Curt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ShowCtrGuy(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: The case for critical thinking . . .
>>But if only the experts were the ones providing information this list >>would be very limited in value to the average RV builder. >> >>Does anyone else agree? > Makes me think of the sign in our hangar-- " The Titanic was built by professionals. The Ark was built by an ametuer. Jeremy King RV4 3981 , final rivets in Horizontal Stab ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Brake mounts
Not an option. Comes with overhead. You should have an order form for ordering the kits. It lists the options. Contact Van's via e-mail at info(at)vansaircraft.com to get current order forms, etc. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA ---------- From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Don R. Jordan Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 2:41 PM Subject: RV-List: Brake mounts Need to order my fuselage. Which brake mount assy should I order? ( floor or overhead) Don Jordan, RV-6A, Arlington, Tx Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B&S Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
Subject: Static Port
Date: Nov 18, 1997
I'm near finishing the wings, and need to fix on the pitot tube installat= ion. I know that Warren Gretz can provide everything I need to do this, = but I have a couple questions. If I go with the tube which has an integr= al static port, does this obviate the need for any fuselage static ports,= or does this only affecting the airspeed indicator? What are my plumbin= g needs? I intend to have an alternate static source in the cockpit. Thanks in advance Brian Eckstein 6A Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Fuselage Interior Painting
Cecil, I posted the recommendations from the product data sheet on this sometime back. If you get a copy from your local Sherwin-Williams dealer, it lists procedures. Basically, you need to clean it with a solvent, re-coat with the same primer, then seal it, then top coat it, according to the manufacturer. Sanding is not recommended. The product data sheet I got is for Corrosion Shield Vinyl Etch Primer E-2-G973, the retail product number for what's on the QBs. I have top-coated without the sealer, but it doesn't cover well. I think I read something from Van's that suggested doing it this way? In regard to the original post on this, there are quite a few things (too numerous to mention) that need to be done before painting the interior. You will have plenty of time to decide (figure out) at what point it is prudent to do this. It is not a cut and dried matter. If you do it too soon, you will find yourself doing a lot of touch up. If you wait too long, you will end up disassemblying a lot of things. Good luck! Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA I also have been looking into the interior painting, and so far the advice seems like the blind leading the blind. I am using the same primer wash from Sherwin Williams as Scott McDaniels is using. I went to the dealer with the following questions: How do you prep primer wash that is over a year old before interior paint. ? sand it. ? re prime it. The dealer spent lots of time looking for something to read without any help. So I asked for the factory tech. number. Calling the factory back east and talking to a tech. type named Jeff was worse. He said to just wash the old primer off. I said Huh? he said yep just wash it off and you can see it run down the drain, I said "your kidding me right?" He read of the Numbers I have on the can, to me and they indicated we were talking about the same thing. Instead of asking him what he was smoking I just hung up. reflecting on this, I believe he was talking about another product even tho he verified we were talking about the same thing. How have others handled this. Scotch bright old stuff? Just wipe with MEK and reprime. Use a blow torch the whole works or what (tongue in cheek guys) Cecil Hatfield writes: >Re: Interior painting, > >I think it is much easier to paint the interior before any of the >wiring, >rudder cables, vent lines or fuel lines are done. I painted anything >that >was permanently attached. In addition I made templates for >firewall/sidewall insulation before the various lines and wires were >installed. This way you don't have to try and get the patterns behind >the >various lines/wiring bundles. > >Stan Blanton ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Bob Haan <bobh(at)cdac.com>
Subject: Re: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
>RV6 regarding the 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns about which >the elevator control horns rotate on the center hinge fastened to the >horizontal stab: > >After drilling these 1/4 inch holes in the elevator control horns to match >the location of the center bushing in the center hinge of the Horizontal >Stab(FS411), the holes are to close to the torque tubes that are welded >perpendicular to the horns for the AN4 bolt or nut to be turned. I can >grind either the bolt or nut to clear the tube but either the nut or bolt >will need to be rotated so one can not be ground. > In less than 24 hours I had 7 helpful suggestions. The suggestion that looks like it will work for me is to use an MS21042-4 All Metal Stop Nut. This nut is smaller in diameter than the standard AN365-428 Elastic Stop Nut. The MS21042-4 nut has a shoulder that is round and rotates just clear of the torque tube. (I did grind off a small amount of the weld so the nut would seat.) The MS21042-4 nut head is inside the OD of this shoulder and is the size for a 5/16 wrench as opposed to the normal 3/8 wrench for a standard nut used on an AN4-X bolt. A friend here in Portland had an MS21042-4 and so I have tested the suggestion and it works great. Thanks again to all who responded. Is this list great or what . . . Bob Bob Haan bobh(at)cdac.com Portland, OR 503-579-2729 RV6A 24461 Fuse out of jig, working on mounting tail ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: High Temps
There is a possible fix for potential danger from the wet wing fuel cells just over the horizon. There is a project right now under way to market a V-4 TurboDiesel(200HP) . This engine runs on Jet-A, which is alot less volatile than Avgas or autofuel. The only problem is that this engine weighs alot less than a Lycoming, so folks would have to use different mounts and do a cowling mod. It is just a thought! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder
> >Does anyone know the amount of degree movement for the rudder. The gap >between my vertical stabilzer and rudder is larger at the top then bottom? > >Joe/fuselage >On the RV-4 the rudder has a 30 deg. movement each way. I beleive the 6 would be the same. You should have some adjustment in the hinge bearings, by moving them in or out as required, to give the proper clearances.Happy building :-) Marc DeGirolamo RV-4 putting tail on fuse. Saskatoon,Canada > > > Marc DeGirolamo RV-4 Saskatoon,SK. Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Barnes, Eric" <eric.barnes(at)Tandem.COM>
Subject: Re: Fuselage Interior Painting
Date: Nov 18, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" Calling the factory back east and talking to a tech. type named Jeff was worse. He said to just wash the old primer off. This may not be the case with all primers, but it apparently is the case with some. We had a very knowledgeable paint guy present at our EAA chapter, and he said the same thing. The primer makes a chemical bond with the paint, and after a couple days after spraying, it will no longer do this. I'm sure someone will explain this in more detail than I'm capable of... I had the same problem on my '90 Olds. Paint flaked off in large patches all over after 6 years, because they didn't get it painted fast enough after priming when they made it. The dealer had to strip it down to the metal (on GM's dime). I still shoot a line of primer down my rivet holes on the exterior though, as it keeps scratches from the dimple dies to a minimum. EB #80131 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash)
Subject: Re: Used Avionics
Date: Nov 19, 1997
>> >>Anybody got some contacts for used/yellow tag avionics vendors? >> Send email to av(at)pdsig.n2.net for a auto-response listing of what we have. =20 =20 Send email to infobot(at)pdsig.n2.net for a directory of interesting stuff! ("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Bill Nash `6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Aircraft Remanufacturing Corp (_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1531 Avohill Dr _..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760) 749 0239 (((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)pdsig.n2.net http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/index.html =20 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Oh, the choices
People, I have encountered a crisis. Well, maybe not a crisis, but certainly a dilemma. I am just about ready to complete my order for my -6A, and suddenly the -4 is growing on me..fast....I really love the fighter look and feel inside the cockpit. However, I like to go x-country, and would like a little more room for bags and such. Also, I do not know if I will regret throwing my better half in the back, with nothing to do but stare at the back of my head. Overall, I think I should build the 6A, but I REALLY like the -4, not to mention it will cost me about $20k less after fewer avionics, and a $7000 kit that I found... Help! Paul Besing RV-6A, -4, or maybe even a 172 (not in a million years) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RWeek91970(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Begining Empanage!
<> Just thought I'd let you know - you might end up sending these chemicals to your grand kids water supply - maybe even your own!! At the Flight School - where I rent, they even have me pour the fuel samples into a gas can by the pumps - so it does wreck the pavement, and so that it doesn't get into the eater supply - as they are on a well nearby!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Grounding
<< The thing that bothers me about this RV-list is that every time a question is raised about anything electrical It seems that people are given the third degree if there opinion doesn't match someone else's. I know that there are members who have professional/expert back grounds in different fields and I think it is great that they take the time to provide their expertise to other RV builders (for free no less). >> It's absolutely true that some believe that their truth is absolute. After all, how many truths could there be? (rhetorical question) The answer always depends on how you ask the question. Further, some questions are so thorny that they defy a universal answer. How would an expert answer certain questions and appear absolutely accurate to all observers? Such as: What is the best method of aircraft circuit protection? or: Among circuit protection devices, which provide the best value? or: How do I answer those that have pointed out the shortfalls of fuses in real life conditions? or: I like circuit breakers, will they work? or: Should I run fuel lines thru the cabin? or: Do I need to run primer lines? To how many jugs? or: Which is the best primer? Do I need to top coat? or: Where do babies come from, really? -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Paul: Good luck with your choice. I'm afraid I can't offer you much advice, except that most of my hours are in a two-seat, side-by-side airplane, and they've been plenty of fun. > not to mention it will cost me about $20k less after fewer > avionics, and a $7000 kit that I found... I found this an odd comment. A good deal on a kit I can understand, but why not just put the same avionics you would put in a -4 into a -6? You don't have to use the panel space just because it's there! My -6 will probably be VFR only, mostly due to cost. If you feel naked with all that left over panel space, park next to me at Oshkosh. ;-) Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC RV-6 tail ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Chris Edwards <CTE(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Does anybody have an RV for MS flight simulator 98 ?
I would like a copy of the drivers for MS Flight Simulator 95 and 98 plea= se email direct to cte(at)compuserve.com. Thanks, Chris cte(at)compuserve.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Fuselage Interior Painting
<< Is it advisable to paint the interior prior to installing all the cables, rudder pedels, seats, electric flaps, and other miscellaneous items >> IMO, yes, if you are able. It yields a higher quality appearance. Compare a repainted auto with the original paint job and you'll see what I mean. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: engine baffling
>I wondered if people were >priming/painting their engine baffles. I have this optimistic thought that >the general oilyness (?sp) of the engine compartment might lead to a low >corrosion environment. I suspect paint is going to rub off the baffles at >many sites anyway (lots of sliding vibrating surfaces). >Leo Davies Leo, I would think that the baffles would get pretty ratty looking if painted. I toyed with the idea of gold anodizing because I thought that looked pretty nice. One of my all time favorite airplanes is a beautiful Midget Mustang (an OSH Grand Champion, 1978?) built by Bruce Whittig (?). He had the gold anodizing on his baffles (and gold plated valve covers which I could do without.) When it was time to ship my baffleing to the company that did anodizing, I chickened out. Had visions of the Samsonite gorilla stomping on my box of baffles. I put the bare aluminum baffles on and wouldn't expect any corrosion problems. Heck, they'll crack out before they corrode although, after 385 hours, there are no cracks on the baffles. Besides, these planes take long enough to build without going out and finding additional things to do. I hope I follow my advice better on my second RV:) Bob Skinner RV-6 385 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: MoeJoe <moejoe03(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
What about a -8? It has the looks of the -4, the baggage capacity of the -6, and is faster than both! Moe Colontonio -8 emp Cherry Hill, NJ Paul Besing wrote: > > > People, I have encountered a crisis. Well, maybe not a crisis, but > certainly a dilemma. I am just about ready to complete my order for my -6A, > and suddenly the -4 is growing on me..fast....I really love the fighter look > and feel inside the cockpit. However, I like to go x-country, and would > like a little more room for bags and such. Also, I do not know if I will > regret throwing my better half in the back, with nothing to do but stare at > the back of my head. Overall, I think I should build the 6A, but I REALLY > like the -4, not to mention it will cost me about $20k less after fewer > avionics, and a $7000 kit that I found... > > Help! > > Paul Besing > > RV-6A, -4, or maybe even a 172 (not in a million years) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: Bolt hole clearance El Horn
Date: Nov 18, 1997
---------- > From: Marc DeGirolamo <dlcwest.com!mdee(at)matronics.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt hole clearance El Horn > Date: Monday, November 17, 1997 8:51 PM > > >Standard socket head cap screws are grade 8, which is quite hard. Would > >these be suitable for Bob's application? > > > > Be careful with assuming all socket head cap screws are Grade 8,last company I was with had a purchasing agent that found a great buy on SHCS's from out east somewhere,China? We soon found out why they were cheap as the heads parted company at less torque than a Grade 5 would take.Incidentally they looked great with a Cad.finish[that may be the way to recognise them visually]. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: AD list/Service bulletins
<34724E72.6923(at)mbnet.mb.ca> Another good spot is: http://www.safetydata.com This is sponsored by EAA and FAA. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell writes: > >Kelli Lewis wrote: >> >> >> Is there an internet listing of AD's and/or service bulletins? I'm >looking >> for Lycoming AD's. OR if anyone has a list of AD's on Lycimings >since 1994, >> that would be helpful. > >Try this: > >http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Manuf.html > >It's on Greg Travis' Home Page > > >Curt > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)juno.com
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Static Port
Brian: I am using a Piper blade type Pitot / Static tube on the wing. I read an indicated solo stall of 41 Kts. I believe that this is a low reading and have NOT verified it with GPS. An RV-4 with Van's factory pitot / static reads 49 MPH when I read 41 Kts. Buffet occurred at the same time in both aircraft. True cruise speed is accurate at 150 to 160 knots verified with GPS. Altitude appears accurate verified against 3 other aircraft. This information is accurate for my RV-6. My instruments are all calibrated and only the pitot / static errors have not been calibrated out. They are close enough to GPS that I do not intend on doing anything else. Good luck. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell writes: > >I'm near finishing the wings, and need to fix on the pitot tube >installat= >ion. I know that Warren Gretz can provide everything I need to do >this, = >but I have a couple questions. If I go with the tube which has an >integr= >al static port, does this obviate the need for any fuselage static >ports,= > or does this only affecting the airspeed indicator? What are my >plumbin= >g needs? I intend to have an alternate static source in the cockpit. > >Thanks in advance > >Brian Eckstein >6A Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
Date: Nov 19, 1997
I am just about ready to complete my order for my -6A, >and suddenly the -4 is growing on me..fast....I really love the fighter look Paul: Evaluate your long term needs. If this is a family project including finacing/help/enjoyment you will never be sorry to build a 6/6A. On any type of x-country it will get very boring to sit in the back of a tandem. Your PAX and even the best of wifes will get frustrated/annoyed/antsie etc. Don't let the looks fool you into something you will regret later. Remember all the convertible cars around. Yes they are great to look at, but less to drive. Build an 6/6A now and a 4 later! Safe and happy landings -ALWAYS! Lothar* K.|| Denver, CO || (303) 922-2329 || installing airlines in the new PILOT SHED (~carriagehouse)|| loocking for RV- 6 JIG ||| *(pron'd: "low-TARR") ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: zero G's
> >What condition actually causes a carburated engine to quit as the plane >goes negative? Think of it this way- The gas in the float bowl is set at a specified height, let's say 2 inches above the jet. This makes 2" of "fuel" pressure to feed the jet. This is like a gravity powered pump feeding the jet that meters the gas flow to the intake manifold/engine. So at 1 G the carburetor works as it should. If you push the nose over to create 1/2 G, the jet in the float bowl now has 1/2 of its gravity powered pump working ( 1 inch of "fuel" pressure) and delivering a little more than 1/2 of the fuel the engine really is designed to have (it's not exactly half but I'm not going into details about viscosity and suction related to flow). Now you can see why the engine doesn't run so well. The lower the G's are the leaner it runs until the gas actually floats up away from the jet that it's feeding and completely starvs the engine (it quit before this anyway from the lean mixture). If you don't have a positive fuel delivery (FUEL INJECTION, etc.) it's gonna quit when you push it over hard enough. The carb is probably designed so that it isn't that picky about the float level since it is in an airplane and one would expect that they thought of things like pushing the nose over a little hard at times or what turbulence can do to it. I'm only speculating but I would say that your float measurement is probably ok to +/- 1/16 or even 1/8. It seems to me that as it passes thru less than 1 G the >float becomes less buoyant, since the density of the fuel is less, Nope. Float buoyancy or fuel density does not change. Mike sn23530 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
Date: Nov 14, 1997
charset="iso-8859-1" Paul, If your wife weighs in at light weight go for the -4. It is a considerably nicer flying bird than the -6 and it will compete with the -6 on 20 less hp. If you want to fly with fat guys like me then you need the -6 or -8. The only gripe I have about my -4 is the back seat is weight limited and it lands too slow. ( I like highly wing loaded hot airplanes, until the engine quits. BTDT) However don't hold back on the radio gear. put it in! all that you can afford. And if the -4 kit is started you are that much closer to flying. What ever you do, Just do it! Tailwinds, N-240 Doug Rozendaal dougr(at)petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr (pictures here!) ________________________________________________________________________________ by roxy.matronics.com (8.8.5/LLNL-3.0)
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Test #1 To List
This is a test. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________ by roxy.matronics.com (8.8.5/LLNL-3.0)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)remarque.org>
Subject: Test From Berkeley!
This is a test ________________________________________________________________________________ by roxy.matronics.com (8.8.5/LLNL-3.0)
From: dralle(at)roxanne.llnl.gov (Matt G. Dralle 510-422-4896)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Double Reply?
>-------------- > >This is a test >-------------- Does this come out as a double reply? -- Matt G. Dralle Internet LAN/WAN Communications Specialist Open LabNet | Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory 7000 East Ave | PO Box 808 | L-267 | Livermore | California | 94550 510-422-4896 - Voice | 510-422-2425 - FAX | dralle(at)llnl.gov - Email ________________________________________________________________________________ by roxy.matronics.com (8.8.5/LLNL-3.0) Received-Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:01:01 -0800 (PST)
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Test to List...
This is atest. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Test
This is a test -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: trailer test..
> Can you use a socket set with a universal joint on one side or the other and an end wrench to hold it on the other side? > > > Bruce Knoll RV6A to be QB Empennage Arrived -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: trailer test..
> Can you use a socket set with a universal joint on one side or the other and an end wrench to hold it on the other side? > > > Bruce Knoll RV6A to be QB Empennage Arrived -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: trailer test..
> Can you use a socket set with a universal joint on one side or the other and an end wrench to hold it on the other side? > > > Bruce Knoll RV6A to be QB Empennage Arrived -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: trailer test..
> Can you use a socket set with a universal joint on one side or the other and an end wrench to hold it on the other side? > > > Bruce Knoll RV6A to be QB Empennage Arrived -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: trailer test..
> Can you use a socket set with a universal joint on one side or the other and an end wrench to hold it on the other side? > > > Bruce Knoll RV6A to be QB Empennage Arrived -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: trailer test..
> Can you use a socket set with a universal joint on one side or the other and an end wrench to hold it on the other side? > > > Bruce Knoll RV6A to be QB Empennage Arrived -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)roxanne.llnl.gov (Matt G. Dralle 510-422-4896)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Re: trailer test..
Well, do we strip this correctly? >-------------- > >> >Can you use a socket set with a universal joint on one side or the other and >an end wrench to hold it on the other side? > > > > > > > > >> >> >> >Bruce Knoll >RV6A to be QB >Empennage Arrived > > > > >-- > >Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > > >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle Internet LAN/WAN Communications Specialist Open LabNet | Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory 7000 East Ave | PO Box 808 | L-267 | Livermore | California | 94550 510-422-4896 - Voice | 510-422-2425 - FAX | dralle(at)llnl.gov - Email ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Nov 22, 1997
Subject: Hello? Is This Thing On??
Hello Listers! Matronics is back online! The cutover to the dedicated Internet connection appears to be successful at this point. I have reenabled the RV-List and Zenith-List email lists as of 7:30pm 11/22 and will start forwarding all of the queued posts shortly. I will be keeping a close eye on the operation of everything for a few days and will post updates as necessary. Welcome back! Matt Dralle RV and Zenith List Admin... -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Autopilot
<347133F1.959996F2(at)egyptian.net>
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 18, 1997
I did an installation in an RV-6A with the servo mounted in the wing using an .063 plate that attached with bolts and platenuts to the bellcrank rib braces (sorry I don't know part #'s) You can use the materials supplied with the servo to make a interconnect pushrod between the servo and an extra hole drilled in the bellcrank. You need to figure out a hole positions that when the ailerons move through full left and right travel, the hole has the same amount of movement as the servo arm. The installation worked very well and it reduces the chance of inducing any elevator input into the system, this sometimes happens with under seat installations in RV-6(A)'s because the pushrod between the servo and control column is not directly in line with the left and right travel of the system. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuselage Interior Painting
<19971118.165650.10303.0.cecilth(at)juno.com>
From: smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Cecil, What I have been doing for a while now (I learned it the hard way with some delaminated paint) is basically what you already mentioned. Most any primer coating that has been cured for a while wont be softened enough by an over coating of paint regardless of what solvents are in the paint. If you scuff all the surfaces with fine scotchbrite and then wipe everything clean with a surface prep. product like prepsol you usually will be ok. We don't use any other sealer or coating before paint and so far the Yellow RV-8 seems to have good abrasion resistance (it has probably already given over 250 demo rides) BTW, I recall that the spec sheet for even PPG DP-40 said that you had to scuff if the coating was more than 3 or 7 days old (I can't remember which), but it wasn't, a very long time. Scott Mc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 1997
From: "Steven Janicki" <SJANICKI(at)us.oracle.com>
Subject: GPS ANTENNA PLACEMENT ON RV6
boundary="=_ORCL_16058055_0r0" --=_ORCL_16058055_0r0 Does anyone have any recommendations at to the placement of a GPS Antenna on an RV6/A? The instructions state that it should be placed topside as it needs to have a line of sight to the GPS Satellite System. I don't like the aesthetics of it and perhaps someone has tackled this differently with success? Regards, Steve ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation. When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Steven B. Janicki Director of Client Services ORACLE Data Center Voice (415)506-2740 Fax (415)633-2933 --=_ORCL_16058055_0r0 TAMAADkGAABMWkZ1vReS8/8ACgEPAhUCpAPkBesCgwBQEwNUAgBjaArAc2V07jIGAAbDAoMy A8YHEwKD3jMERwhVB7ICgzQUPxVD/n0KgAjPCdkCgAqBDbELYGBuZzEwMxQgCwNs+GkxOA3w BRAaogtVFcHAczE3IERvB5EAcNJ5AiBlIBHAdhzAHHEWIBgQBaBtB4BuZGGcdGkCIBxRBUB0 bx6QZmgcwAtRY2UdwQVAb6JmHGAgR1AF8EECMD0J8G4f4AIgHGEH8FY2YC9BPyBUHuELgHPw dHJ1Yx4UIfAeABzASx7QHnFpBUBzaAhgbLhkIGIe9SPQHqBwAJD/DbAcYAQgI1EcsAmABCAe oT0c5CAagByxH7EAkGdo7x6HIAIGECBgbBqAItEGsAMh8B9QLiAgSSBk7QIgJwVAGoBrIuId EQeQ+x7RHhBjBCAfsSNRAHAj0L5wBJARwCSwIpADcGUcpNMlsQDQa2wkYmgEAClA7QaQZgSQ H3FsHVAD8B7QryKQIiAfQAQQPwqFIAqFyFJlZwsRcywpEC+mvTCoUyBgHQEwvwXALTN//zSP NZ82rzdHMlcMgjjUL5f/OOghkiKjH2IcUiPQJKALgPEeI2V4cBgQBBAkYR7glxgQHGA9MW0d UG93INLfI9A5jzkQKVAlYG8lUi7ivwrAAxAdUjySH3Ie0G8R8Dkfok9yANAtEBSxcnDfBbAe AykBMkkKhVce4AOg6wIgH0AgHJB1HNQBkCjB/yPQGZAnAjCRCoVE8gPwKECvReAFsDIBBcB3 B0BrHsM+ZQrALoEuY0TxBcBleR0HkXQIcBywI9Bza3n/SAALIEZYR4Eewj0xRPcj8P8J8DCQ K1JLqEczB0BIACiw+yZgAiBnHpIYEEniKQEvPe9Qj1GfUkg4MUwsQQsRHrDKRB/gVguAY2lP n1Wfr1avVzYxegOgQikASgBwPSqwawCgOPdaHVf6RGnvHXEeoAXAH7FDGoAfcgZhDnYqsAeR L6ZPUkFD/ExFVAEBkBSwH3EVEV9/CVfrVm9dgSAoNDEANSk1MDYtMjceNA3wWxdjL1e+RmF4 7WG0NhoAYkA5GgFazFUf/2hPaV9qbzJva/9Dmm3ubvwFFzEAcIA= --=_ORCL_16058055_0r0 Does anyone have any recommendations at to the placement of a GPS Antenna on an RV6/A? The instructions state that it should be placed topside as it needs to have a line of sight to the GPS Satellite System. I don't like the aesthetics of it and perhaps someone has tackled this differently with success?

Regards,

Steve

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.

When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.

 -- Leonardo Da Vinci


Steven B. Janicki
Director of Client Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (415)506-2740
Fax (415)633-2933





--=_ORCL_16058055_0r0-- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LesDrag(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 21, 1997
Subject: Ivoprop: answers to Kyle Boatright questions
> >Jim, (Snip) >1) How many current edition Magnums have been sold? Since July 1996, about 200 Ivoprop Variable Pitch Magnum props have been sold for Lycomings, and about 200 of the props for other types of engines, including my LOM M332A engine. (Alternate engine fans please note the ratio of Lycomings to alternate engines.) >2) How many owners of the current edition have had problems with their props? Not enough information available. IMHO, on a new product, if less than 5% of the people have problems for ANY reason, then the volume of problems is managable. In my three years experience with flying the Ivoprop Magnum prop, any problem has been addressed to the extent that the actual problem can be identified. I have not experienced any problems on the new configuration prop, but I've only made two cross country flights on my recently upgraded prop, so far. One to Oshkosh, and one to Hillsboro. >3) If there were problems, please break down by installation related problems, and by non- installation related problems. Not enough information available. >4) If there were problems, please list the most common causes and how the problems were identified. This is provided with the installation instructions as a separate sheet on what not to do. >5) How many current edition Magnum's are there actively flying today attached to O- 320/360's? Not enough information available. >6) How long has the current iteration of the prop been in service? Since July, 1996. >7) Is there an estimate of the number of total hours flown behind the props? > If so, please give figures. Not enough information available. >8) Has anyone done extensive acro behind a magnum? If so, what maneuvers were attempted, and how many hours of acro were done behind the prop(s)? The Ivoprop Magnum prop was installed on a Pitts with the sole purpose of trying to break the prop. It didn't happen. Not through snap rolls, tail slides, etc. IMHO, the aerodynamic and gyroscopic loads are much smaller than the four cylinder four cycle impulse loading. >9) Was there an engineering test program run on the magnums? If so, please describe. Give hours flown, etc. During the initial testing of the Ivoprop Magnum prop for the more extreme engines, additional criteria was provided for the inspection of the prop. I was one of these people, and I have reported previously what criteria I was working. The FAA certification effort has not started yet. >10) What are the advantages of the magnum over conventional wood or metal fixed pitch prop's? The Ivoprop flight adjustable Magnum prop allows full engine RPM (full horsepower) for take off and climb at sea level or at a high altitude airport. In cruise, you can select the engine RPM, and use the throttle to set the power level / fuel consumption. For top speed, how fast do you want to turn the engine?? (Hint: As the prop tip speed passes Mach 0.7, prop efficiency will start to decrease at the tip. (For very thin tips that sweep back, this may be increased to Mach 0.85.)) The two blade Ivoprop flight adjustable Magnum prop has the same installed weigh as a fixed pitch wood prop. The Magnum three blade prop weighs about 5 pounds more. (A simple way to fine tune the weight and balance on the RV. And that three blade prop does look good on an RV.) If damaged, the blades can be replaced separately from the prop hub. $220 per blade. If just the tips are damaged (bad landing, etc), the blades can be inspected (by the factory), and then trimmed to a slightly shorter length. The blades are a VERY robust design. >11) What are the disadvantages of the magnum compared conventional prop's? IMHO, none compared to a wood prop, or a hydraulic constant speed prop. Slightly higher inspection time involved, compared to a fixed pitch metal prop. >Thanks for your response, > >Kyle Boatright >RV-6 in progress >Kboatri144(at)AOL.com Jim Ayers LOM M332A engine Ivoprop VP Prop Sportcraft Antennas RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder Less_Drag(at)juno.com Thousand Oaks, California USA http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Static Port- one or two?
I'm near finishing the wings, and need to fix on the pitot tube installation. I know that Warren Gretz can provide everything I need to do this, but I have a couple questions. If I go with the tube which has an integral static port, does this obviate the need for any fuselage static ports, or does this only affecting the airspeed indicator? What are my plumbing needs? I intend to have an alternate static source in the cockpit. >> Brian: One static source is sufficient. The alt source/drain in the cockpit is also a good idea, but it will introduce a certian amount of error while in use. Be sure you know what the error is before you actually need to use the alt source- maybe check it during your test period, and note the figures in your a/c logbook. You'll need some sort of written record if your memory is anything like mine...too many Grateful Dead concerts, I think. Hmmmmmmm..... Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Engine painting
I received the following from John Schwaner, author of the Sky Ranch Engineering Manual concerning the topic of paint vs. alodining of aluminum engine parts: ******* I ran a corrosion test once upon a time on chromate coatings (alodine). This is not to be confused with anodizing. Using 6061 and 2024 aluminum alloy samples, I baked the samples at room temperature, 120,150, 175 and 200 degrees F. for a couple of hours. The net result was corrosion resistance went away after a half an hour above 170 F. The resistance reverted to equal bare aluminum. Something to do with drying out the hydrated chromate coating. Don't bother using alodine on anything that is exposed to long term about 170 F temperatures. Paint adhesion was not effected, so if you are just using allodine for a paint base, I guess that would be OK. Although, a good cleaning would make the paint stick just as well on aluminum castings. ******** Bob Skinner RV-6 385 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: "Kevin C. Lowery" <kevinlowery(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Streamlined faring Wing to Fuselage
Here is some information to use as you see fit concerning streamlining between the wing and fuse. I have taken over as editor of the Midwest RV-ator Newsletter from Jim Cone. He allowed me to continue supplying back issues to builders (and believe me there is alot of great information there). One of his issues describes how to build a fiberglass wing/fuse fairing complete with pictures! You can order back issues for $5.00/year starting in '95. He also has many articles on the RV-6 canopy installation, complete with pictures. If you are interested my address is: Kevin Lowery 1032 Picardy Ln. St. Charles, MO 63301 or e-mail me at: kevinlowery(at)compuserve.com The next issue is taking shape and Van's Airforce - MidWest Wing will be published in January. Subscribe now for only $5.00! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eric.Henson(at)hfsmobility.com
Date: Nov 20, 1997
Subject: Re: Fuselage Interior Painting
Hi Cecil, I'm not a paint pro, but my list of ah sh**s is pretty long. If you contaminated the primer with any oils, the paint will only stick for a limited time. Obviously you don't want to remove it all and you probably dont need to unless it's really nasty. I would just clean with an oil and wax remover such as PrepSol or PreCleano and scrub at the same time with green scotch brite. If your primer comes of with this switch to laquer thinner and get rid of the cheap crap. If it stays on, then lay another light coat for adhesion and then top coat. Personally, if the primer has cured for over a year, I would like another coat of prime to ensure a good chemical bond between the paint & old primer. Hope it helps Eric Henson Dana Point, CA (Big Clip) >>>How do you prep primer wash that is over a year old before interior paint. ? sand it. ? re prime it.<<< >>>How have others handled this. Scotch bright old stuff? Just wipe with MEK and reprime. Use a blow torch the whole works or what (tongue in cheek guys) >>>Cecil Hatfield ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: engine baffling
> I toyed with the idea of gold anodizing because I thought that looked pretty > nice. [snip!] > I chickened out. ... > Heck, they'll crack out before they corrode > although, after 385 hours, there are no cracks on the baffles. I'm sure you made the right choice here Bob. Remember that Anodizing converts the surface of the material to a highly corrosion-resistant, but much more brittle form, and reduces the fatigue life of the material. And baffles tend to be the first things to crack in an airplane. I imagine they'd crack out a lot sooner if they were anodized. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Don McCall <mccall(at)cayman.ds.boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
On Tue, 18 Nov 1997, Paul Besing wrote: > > People, I have encountered a crisis. Well, maybe not a crisis, but > certainly a dilemma. I am just about ready to complete my order for my -6A, > and suddenly the -4 is growing on me..fast....I really love the fighter look > and feel inside the cockpit. However, I like to go x-country, and would > like a little more room for bags and such. Also, I do not know if I will > regret throwing my better half in the back, with nothing to do but stare at > the back of my head. Overall, I think I should build the 6A, but I REALLY > like the -4, not to mention it will cost me about $20k less after fewer > avionics, and a $7000 kit that I found... > > Help! I've been grappling with this issue myself (although I'm lusting after the -8, not the -4). Had my S.O. pretty well convinced that sitting in the back seat would be the greatest thing since sliced bread. But, suffering a twinge of conscience and living just a few hours drive from Van's, we made the trip a couple of weekends ago to get the infamous $30,000 free ride (more like $50k in my case, with a full IFR panel and CS prop). On the way down, I remarked that there was also a side-by-side model available, in case the -8 wasn't to her liking. We first sat in the -8 and it took S.O. about 3 seconds to decide she would NOT fly in that airplane; she's not especially claustrophobic, but felt fairly isolated back there, with no chance of flying the plane by herself in an emergency, unable to help with chart folding or other essential cockpit duties, inferior view, etc. (Note: the -4 would be MUCH tighter for the person in back than the -8). So, we checked out the -6A, and she was tickled pink. I still prefer the -8, but my initial reservations about the -6A disappeared after seeing it for real, and getting a test flight (Tom Green took us both up, first time I'd flown a stick or experienced REALLY steep turns and aerobatics). Awesome airplane! There was more room in the side-by-side cockpit than I was expecting, performance and handling were incredible (if you're rating fighter-like qualities on a scale of 1-10, with a Cessna 172 a 1 and the -4 a 10, then the -6A would be about a 9.5 -- you just don't lose much by putting the 2nd seat alongside). So, 6A it is... One of my initial reasons for preferring the -8 (besides the pure sex appeal) was the baggage flexibility -- 100 pounds total in fore and aft compartments. The literature I've seen shows a 60 pound limit in the single large baggage compartment on the 6A, but Tom said the real limit is actually 100 pounds, although CG considerations will tend to keep it lower. I'm hoping that with a heavier engine (the 180 hp) and CS prop out front, I'll be able to get closer to 100 pounds back there. When stuffing that back compartment full of backpacks, sleeping bags, etc, Tom made the important observation that the tilt-up canopy would work much better in a situation like that -- since the back portion is fixed in place you can stuff more things back there (cg permitting), all the way to the top. With the slider, you can't fill up the baggage space as full because there's got to be clearance to move the canopy, and no way to "compress" everything in the meantime. One thing I especially like about the -8 is the throttle quadrant (3 levers) on the left wall of the cockpit, rather than the usual push-pull knobs on the panel (a la Cessna's and 6A). I'm hoping to be able to use the triple lever arrangement in the 6A (either in a console between, and just in front of, the seats, or possibly on the left wall) -- anybody done that, or got any advice on whether it's feasible? Last but not least... the 6A will be better for solo IFR, I'm expecting, with that right seat available for charts, plates, etc. Oh yeah, gross weight -- 1650 for the -6A, 1800 for the -8. Not an issue! Tom also told me that the two planes are structurally so similar that, if they were rating the -6A again, they'd make IT 1800 as well, with no change to the airframe (based on more recent information, etc.). So, I'm going to rate my -6A at 1750 or 1800, assuming the FAA buys into that -- I'm told they're pretty reasonable, it's our option generally to set the figure wherever we want. Hope this helps! Good luck... Don McCall ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
Paul, I dont get the conection here! A 4 vs a 6A? What about the 6? It does seem that most wives prefer the side by side seating. I have a 6 in the garage and my wife wants nothing to do with it. She says she prefers having her own space in the back of our 4. She says she can put her arms and legs where she pleases with no one complaining.( You could solve your bagage problems with an 8 and still have the fighter look.) My wife and I have flown all over the country in our 4 and we manage to take along all the bagage thats nescesary for the trip. You will always find a way to work with what you have. Why not ask your wife? mabe she likes the fighter look to. Ryan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gretz, Warren" <GretzW(at)tcplink.nrel.gov>
Subject: Static Port/Pitot Tube
Date: Nov 19, 1997
If you use one of my installation kits of pitot tube mounting bracket and one of the heated pitot tubes I also sell, which is the AN5814 with static source built into the tube, you do not need to install any additional static ports in the rear of the fuselage. Someone recently asked me if it would be best to use a pitot tube with static source and also install the static port in the rear fuselage, just for the accuracy it may make. My answer to the question was, it is not necessary and also will just make additional places for the static system to develop leaks which would be bad for accuracy. The heated pitot tubes with static sources in them are all accurate. It is the location of the pitot tube that makes them non-accurate. My recommended placement of the AN5814 pitot tube, which is in my complete instructions, will make for an accurate system. The entrance to the dynamic source of the pitot tube, in my installation kit, is nearly the same location as that of the known accurate placement of Vans bent aluminum tube pitot. Vans placement of his pitot tube is a compromise location that works very well. The only truly accurate location is at least 3-4 feet in front of any surface that is passing through totally undisturbed air. That is why you will see the long stinger pitot tubes with static ports in them on the aircraft that are undergoing very critical and accurate flight testing. You may contact me for a flyer on my installation kits and pitot tubes at the address below. Gretz Aero Warren Gretz 3664 E. Lake Drive Littleton, CO 80121 (303) 770-3811 gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PhilipR920(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Breaker source
I need a 70 amp. circuit breaker for the panel. If any one knows of a source, please advise. Phil Rogerson 6AQ 60057 Fernandina Beach, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Paul Besing <rv(at)tppal.com>
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
Basically, If I have the panel space, I will use it! I do not have much self control! > >Paul: > >Good luck with your choice. I'm afraid I can't offer you >much advice, except that most of my hours are in a two-seat, >side-by-side airplane, and they've been plenty of fun. > >> not to mention it will cost me about $20k less after fewer >> avionics, and a $7000 kit that I found... > >I found this an odd comment. A good deal on a kit I can >understand, but why not just put the same avionics you >would put in a -4 into a -6? You don't have to use the >panel space just because it's there! My -6 will probably >be VFR only, mostly due to cost. If you feel naked with >all that left over panel space, park next to me at >Oshkosh. ;-) > >Tedd McHenry >Surrey, BC >RV-6 tail > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Christopher Dahl <dahlhouse(at)cdepot.net>
Paul, "I am just about ready to complete my order for my -6A, and suddenly the -4 is growing on me..fast....I do not know if I will regret throwing my better half in the back, with nothing to do but stare at the back of my head." With the thin air at 12500 ft, the warming of the cockpit from the sun, the consistant purr of the engine and the discman putting forth the music of the Eagles' 'When Hell Freezes Over', mine takes a most restful and peaceful nap...and when she reaches REM sleep, I invert and pull hard. She loves it. Christopher Dahl RV-4 for ten years ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)roxanne.llnl.gov (Matt G. Dralle 510-422-4896)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Test From Berkeley!
>-------------- > >This is a test > >-------------- This is a reply test. -- Matt G. Dralle Internet LAN/WAN Communications Specialist Open LabNet | Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory 7000 East Ave | PO Box 808 | L-267 | Livermore | California | 94550 510-422-4896 - Voice | 510-422-2425 - FAX | dralle(at)llnl.gov - Email ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)roxanne.llnl.gov (Matt G. Dralle 510-422-4896)
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Double Reply?
>-------------- > >This is a test >-------------- Does this come out as a double reply? -- Matt G. Dralle Internet LAN/WAN Communications Specialist Open LabNet | Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory 7000 East Ave | PO Box 808 | L-267 | Livermore | California | 94550 510-422-4896 - Voice | 510-422-2425 - FAX | dralle(at)llnl.gov - Email ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
From: Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding
Al Mojzisik wrote: snipped I researched my aviation references and sent > the appropriate references to gyroscopic forces on PSRU's to the inquiring > parties. I think they at least found them interesting and since the > articles were written by experieced engineers and were published for peer > review I think maybe I was vindicated. Al, I don't know where I was when this topic went by the boards, but I would greatly appreciate receiving a copy of any technical info on PSRUs and/or their design. I have a friend (machinist) who is making a PSRU for a local Cozy builder. I would like to show this info to him also. I know he would appreciate it also. Thanks in advance. Charlie Kuss RV8 finished priming VS at 10:55pm Boca Raton, Fl. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVator(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 19, 1997
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
Paul; I have an RV-4 and it is a great airplane. However it is sensitive to how much weight you put behind the pilot. Also some of that weight can be very vocal about always riding in the back . If your backseater is lightweight, that is good for the C.G. but it may also mean they are not so very tall which makes it difficult for them to see. You can add booster cushions, but then they may find the leg angle uncomfortable, or harness restrictons. An RV-8 will provide additional baggage and elbow room, but your backseater will still have the same visibilty challenge. If your airplane is a family project, intended for family use, you may want to take another look at the RV-6 line. Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)IBM.Net>
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
> > I am just about ready to complete my order for my -6A, > >and suddenly the -4 is growing on me..fast....I really love the fighter look > Paul, I don't know about you, but I would have never got started on my project without the support, encouragement and yes consent of my wife. When I first contemplated building, I to was struck by the appearance and lines on the RV4. When I proposed this to my wife her response was "No way am I going to sit in back and not know whats going on up front. I don't want to be flown around, I want to fly this with you." Since that conversation I have been working on our RV6 and now that the canning is done she is helping with the deburring and is getting more involved in the construction. She also started flying lessons in August so that she can share in the flying duties once our airplane is finished. I look at this as something that would have never happened had I stuck with my initial decision to go with a RV4. Side by side and loving it. Fran Malczynski Olcott, NY RV6 (Wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Steve Dixon <sdixon(at)jet.laker.net>
Subject: Tank Slosh
Listers, This isn't RV related but maybe someone can help. I have a friend that has a 182 on floats. One of the floats has a leak in one chamber. He asked if I had some ideas for a repair and I remembered reading about a fuel tank slosh sealant that I think may solve his problem, but I can,t remember what it is called or where to find it. Any ideas? You can answer off the list to sdixon(at)laker.net Steve Dixon RV-8 makin' sloooow progress on the wings Ft Lauderdale, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1997
Subject: Re: Sportcraft antennas for ILS & GS
From: less_drag(at)juno.com (James E Ayers)
writes: > > I'm interested in using the Sportcraft wingtip vor antenna in my -6a. I was >wondering if anyone has tried using it with a splitter, for a vor/loc and >glideslope antenna? I realize that using one wingtip antenna for gs would put >me 1/2 wingspan off of the gs centerline, but I think I could live with that. >Would this work? Has anyone else tried this? >Thanks. >Mark LaBoyteaux >Broken Arrow, Ok >mlaboyteau(at)aol.com Yes. It has already been done in a Mooney. (More offset from centerline than the RV.) Bob Archer (Sportcraft Antenna) says it works fine. You can get a splitter from Aircraft Spruse, amoung other places. Jim Ayers Less_Drag(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: zero G's
Michael, I believe that losing an inch or two of fuel head pressure will reduce fuel delivered, but only by a few percent, not by half or so. The large pressure drop in the venturi is primarily responsible for fuel flow - the inch or two of fuel head pressure is small compared to the pressure drop in the venturi. If an engine were exactly at the point of almost too lean mixture, the effect could be noticed. I think the mystery remains unsolved. Alex Peterson 6A Maple Grove, MN > If you push the nose over to create 1/2 G, the jet in the float bowl now > has 1/2 of its gravity powered pump working ( 1 inch of "fuel" pressure) > and delivering a little more than 1/2 of the fuel the engine really is > designed to have (it's not exactly half but I'm not going into details > about viscosity and suction related to flow). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Empenage fairing
Fellow RVers, I'm re-posting a message that I sent out a week ago, or so. Since I never received any comment (off list, of course) nor has Mark heard from any of the 15 people who had requested a fairing from me, I was worried that the message didn't make it to the list. Neither Mark or I remember seeing it come in and I think it was sent during the RV-list overhaul. Forgive me if this has already been sent (but at least it's not about primers.) ******* Fellow RVers: Due to the large response for my empenage fairing and because of limited shop space and time, I have sold my fairing mold and "business" to Mark Frederick of Frederick Custom Airframe (also known as fellow lister, "check six" Mark). Hopefully, he will be able to supply fairings in a more timely manner than I am able to do. Mark is going to make a male mold from my fairing which will give builders an advantage in that they will no longer have to worry about cleaning and sanding the outside surface for good bonds of the additional layers. The floppy fairings from Mark will be smooth on the surface that is next to the airplane and rough on the outside. Any mold release or wax will be on the inside and the rough outside should require very little prep work. Just a light sanding. For all of the builders who have contacted me concerning my "floppy fairing", please contact Mark, off list, at: Mlfred(at)aol.com I feel sure that he will supply you with a quality fairing and in a much more timely manner than I would be able to due to shop and time limitations. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause but I think this solution will be best for builders (and allow me time for working on my second RV, hiking in the mountains, trout fishing and traveling to visit my children.) Thanks, Bob Skinner RV-6 385 hrs Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: Fuselage Interior Painting
Date: Nov 19, 1997
In regard to the original post on this, there are quite a few things (too numerous to mention) that need to be done before painting the interior. You will have plenty of time to decide (figure out) at what point it is prudent to do this. It is not a cut and dried matter. If you do it too soon, you will find yourself doing a lot of touch up. If you wait too long, you will end up disassemblying a lot of things. Good luck! Les and others, I am just now drilling my fuselage skeleton so my comments are all out of ignorance. It has occurred to me that one could paint the parts of the skeleton that will show after assembly, then paint the inside of the skins that will show, then rivet it together. This would leave the rivet heads unpainted and probably bucking bar marks. What are other disadvantages of this approach? I am thinking through the whole assembly/painting sequence to figure out the best time to paint and, never having done this before, I am having some difficulty. Suggestions would be appreciated. Ken Harrill RV - 6 fuselage skeleton ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: gcomfo(at)tc3net.com (Gordon Comfort)
Subject: Re: Oh, the choices
Paul Besing wrote: > > Paul: Since you seem to have defined the mission for the aircraft you will build, you might consider the following: 1) Since the disposeable load for both the RV 4 and RV 6 is aft of the C.G. (except for fuel) the loading options are fewer than for the RV 8 which has a forward baggage compartment. The 8 has a greater useful load than either the 4 or 6. On any of these birds, the choice of front end components (engine, propeller) can have a significant effect on baggage capacity. My RV 4 has an O-320 with a fixed pitch prop and when flying with the Sensenich metal prop and solid extension which is 26 pounds heavier than the wood prop with spool extension, I can carry 40 pounds in the aft baggage. At the same time the rear seat load is slightly over 200 pounds. To do this with the wood prop would be uncomfortable. The 6A would have a bit more forward bias due to the nosewheel but would be limited (as would the others) by the forward C.G. limit. If your cross country trips result in extended stays, UPS will deliver additional baggage for you. 2) If your wife likes to fly and is interested in the process, she would have the potential of keeping busy in the back seat about the same as she would in the front, backstopping the navigation, keeping flight diary, noting radio frequencies and the like. If she is not interested in the above, then she might listen to music or read, either of which are seating position neutral. If either of you feel the side by side seating to be more companionable and that is important, then the 6 is the choice. 3) The view from the front seat in an RV 4 is hard to beat. The view from the back is not as good. However the view from the 6 suffers from the inability to see the opposite side and to the rear as well as the other two. If you are into maneuvering flight very much the tandem arrangement has the advantage. Whichever you choose you will have a great flying airplane. Good luck. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 1997
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: High Temps
Nobody told you how far away that horizon is. Been hearing about new diesel aircraft engines for years, always "just over the horizon", but never getting to market. It will be great if it happens and if it lives up to expectations, but I wouldnt hold my breath while waiting. Mike Wills RV-4 (wings done!, saving pennies for fuse)

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