RV-Archive.digest.vol-eb

January 12, 1998 - January 20, 1998



      are at
              drilling out 3/32" flush rivets.
      
              Have you already drilled/deburred the horn attachment holes? If
      not,
              then if you don't drill out the rivets, you can't deburr their
              insides. Not to mention all those Al shavings rattling round
      inside.
      
              If anyone comes up with other solutions, I'd like to add them to
      my
              "Bunny's Guide to RV Building"...
              http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunny1b.htm
      
              Frank.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
Date: Jan 12, 1998
> From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> > Which construction has a better rollover protection? I can offer no statistical support, but here's my opinion. The slider has a rollbar as a high point on the fuselage and is located near the head, right in between two other crush zones (the foreward cowl/engine/skin and the top rear skin). The tip-up locates your head as the high point (for us taller folk anyway) between the rollbar and front skin. Thus, maybe the slider is better in this regard? Rob (RV-6Q). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bdserv(at)usa.net
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: elevator pushrods
I was installing the elevator pushrods yesterday and ran into some problems. First, maximum up elevator travel is limited by the forward pushrod bearing, which contacts the inside of the clevis on the control stick assembly before the clevis is within 1/8 inch of the F604 as Van's specifies. In my case, the bearing hits the clevis when it is still almost 1/2 inch from the F604. Second, down elevator travel is limited by the cutout in the F605. However, enlarging the cutout will not solve the problem because the pushrod is already very close to scraping on the underside of the floor. In fact, even if I somehow fix the problem with the bearing/clevis interference it looks like the pushrod will contact the underside of the floor with very little additional movement. I read in the archives about someone with a similar problem who filed the clevis and bent the pushrod for clearance. Has anyone else encountered this problem, and if so, what do you recommend? Bruce Stobbe RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Olaus Walsh" <olaus(at)linkport.com>
Subject: Re: Test Mail
Date: Jan 12, 1998
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00AD_01BD1F64.2C613280" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00AD_01BD1F64.2C613280 test ok ------=_NextPart_000_00AD_01BD1F64.2C613280 http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
test ok
------=_NextPart_000_00AD_01BD1F64.2C613280-- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVGEM <RVGEM(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: Re: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
having sampled both tip-up and slider, I would go for the slider every time especially if you are in a warmer climate. Draughts are no problem then. A couple of points that have not been mentioned --- in the event of an oil leak, I guess it is more effective to slide the canopy back and squint out the side and in the event of an upside down arrival I think You might be marginally better off getting out from the slider. By the way, I started out as a tip-up and converted to slider. Beware, Van doesn't tell you all the bits you need to make the change. Not expensive but messy and timeconsuming. Regards from Scotland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVGEM <RVGEM(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: Re: first flight!
I am very interested to hear how your friend got on with the o-360 / Constant Speed that you referred to in your mail. This is the same spec that I am building and hoppe to take to the air in about 2 to 3 months time. Look forward to hearing from you regards ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: elevator pushrods
> I was installing the elevator pushrods yesterday and ran into some problems. [snip!] I had similar problems with my elev. pushrods. What it took to make it work was to 1) enlarge the hole in the rear spar so the pushrod would go as high as possible, 2) grind the aft corners of the elevator horns (quite a bit in fact, but you have plenty of extra there) and 3) monkeying for hours with both pushrods until I wound up with the right combination. Changing the pushrod lengths was really a trial-and error thing -- I'd swear it defies the laws of physics what happens to one pushrod when you lengthen or shorten the other one. I may have also ground the front control clevis a bit but I don't remember for sure. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: elevator pushrods
> >I was installing the elevator pushrods yesterday and ran into some problems. >I read in the archives about someone with a similar problem who filed the >clevis and bent the pushrod for clearance. Has anyone else encountered >this problem, and if so, what do you recommend? > >Bruce Stobbe >RV-6 Bruce, Cant add any constructive help, but am certain of one thing - I would never (repeat never as many times as necessary for emphasis) bend the pushrod! Mike Wills RV-4 (fuse on order) willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: elevator pushrods
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> >I was installing the elevator pushrods yesterday and ran into some problems. > >First, maximum up elevator travel is limited by the forward pushrod >bearing, which contacts the inside of the clevis on the control stick >assembly before the clevis is within 1/8 inch of the F604 as Van's >specifies. In my case, the bearing hits the clevis when it is still almost >1/2 inch from the F604. > >Second, down elevator travel is limited by the cutout in the F605. >However, enlarging the cutout will not solve the problem because the >pushrod is already very close to scraping on the underside of the floor. > >clevis and bent the pushrod for clearance. Has anyone else encountered >this problem, and if so, what do you recommend? > Bruce, I had ALL these problems. I ground out the weldment to eliminate that interference. I enlarged the F605 hole to eliminate that one and I cut a hole in the floor and bent the ends of the hole up to eliminate that one (concealed by electric flap mechanism cover). I had another one I won't mention because you didn't. Only four interferences in one part. This is why it seems to take a long time to do every little thing. I wish someone could tell me how to fix my canopy frame interferences. I'm about to take a grinder to my beautiful panel to get the frame to come down far enough. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM Pacer N8025D RV-6QME N441LP Reserved Tip-Up Canopy Frame ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: Charlie <ckfiber(at)dallas.net>
Subject: No Messages
I hate to whine again but I haven't received a single message from the list in over a week, my other mail is coming and going fine! I subscribed again on 1-9 with no result, if anyone is having the same problem or knows the cure let me know. Thanks in advance Charlie Kearns N113JK RV-8 wings, waiting on fuselage und, doin' loop-de-loos and whatchamajiggers, and then it just fell out of the sky! The motor sounded kinda funny, then it just stalled on him and the plane just fell out of the sky. I mean, it just dropped like a rock." The next day-- Initial examination of yesterday's wreckage of a small airplane just on the outskirts of town were inconclusive, officials of the National Transportation Safety Board and the Federal Aviation Administration reported. The aircraft, initially reported to be a Piper Cub, was more likely a homebuilt airplane, known as an RV. "It will likely be months before we know the exact cause of the crash," an NTSB spokesperson announced. "The aircraft, an RV-5A, is an amateur-built airplane, probably built in the pilot's garage. While the damage to the airframe is extensive, and final results won't be available for many months, our initial examination focuses on a mis-drilled hole in the horizontal stabilizer--the little wing on the back of the plane--where the builder made a mistake." Regarding the increasing number of homebuilt aircraft on the FAA's registry, the NTSB official went on to say, "There are lots of these little buggers out there!" An FAA representative commented on the increasing prevalance of homebuilt aircraft saying, "This is what you get when you let a bunch of amateurs horse around with airplanes! These darned little homemade airplanes are gonna take out an airliner someday and wipe out a school full of kids, and then there'll be hell to pay! Do you know how much paperwork that'll be?" The FAA representative and the NTSB official then went out for doughnuts. The NTSB official was heard to call out as they left, "Yeah, what he said!" Two weeks later-- The preliminary report of the National Transportation Safety Board's examination of the wreckage of a small airplane that went down on the outskirts of town two weeks ago indicated that their initial findings were probably correct. An unnamed NTSB official was quoted in the report: "Cursory examination of the wreckage showed a definite correlation between a mis-drilled hole in the internal structure of the horizontal stabilizer and the subsequent loss of control of the aircraft. The third rib of the left horizontal stabilizer was found to have a 'figure-eight' hole--caused by careless construction technique on the builder's part--which had a domino effect on the rest of the aircraft, ultimately leading to total structural failure." A reporter from the Enquirer asked the NTSB official if there were similar building errors in the wreckage. "No, essentially none. From what we can gather from the wreckage, everything else was built satisfactorily. It was all due to this one figure-eight hole." Seven months after the accident-- The NTSB released its final report on the crash of an RV-5A Piper Cub just outside of town seven months ago. The report stated that the preliminary findings were in error regarding the cause of the crash. According to the Board's initial report, the builder, who was not seriously injured in the crash, had made a critical error in building the homemade airplane. However, after further investigation, it was determined that the pilot/builder had been informed by a Technical Counsellor from the Experimental Aircraft Association that the mis-drilled, "figure-eight" hole would probably disqualify him from winning an award at Oshkosh, whereupon he apparently became deranged. The pilot then allegedly took off in a rage, screaming that he no longer had a reason to live. The FAA and NTSB have closed the investigation. "We still shouldn't let you people build your own airplanes...look what happened to that Denver guy..." the FAA official was heard to mutter. The builder/pilot, having undergone psychiatric testing and treatment, was ordered to submit to remedial flight training by the FAA before being allowed to fly again. When asked about any plans to build another airplane, he said, "You bet! Van's gives a discount for second-time builders...and Van doesn't give ANYTHING away!!" DISCLAIMER: If this essay bothers anyone on the list (and it probably will), please accept my apologies. I've just been drilling, deburring and dimpling so long I temporarily lost my mind. I feel better now. As a new builder, I've fretted long and hard and remade perfectly good pieces as I envisioned my plane coming apart a the seams due to some small error, like a figure-eight hole. So, to all new builders, relax about the occasional boo-boo. There are lots of RVs out there with lots of hours that have figure-eight holes and bent rivets. Just enjoy building! (If anyone wants to bawl me out for wasting archive space, do it off-list, please. However, I've endured many lines of drivel that you've probably submitted, so that makes us even!) --Don McNamara Humble RV builder ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: elevator pushrods
Larry, Can you describe what interferences you're having with your canopy frame? I assume it is a tip-up. Have you contacted the factory for advice? Les Williams/RV-6AQ (2nd tip-up)/Tacoma WA I wish someone could tell me how to fix my canopy frame interferences. I'm about to take a grinder to my beautiful panel to get the frame to come down far enough. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM Pacer N8025D RV-6QME N441LP Reserved Tip-Up Canopy Frame ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: elevator pushrods
Bruce, I think someone recently posted that it is necessary to remove a bit of the clevis (yoke) weldment to keep the pushrod bearing from contacting it. I don't like the idea of doing that on such an important part unless it is first approved by Van's. Are you sure that you have begun the fitting of the forward pushod with the bellcrank in the vertical position and the control stick in the slightly forward position as detailed in the instructions and shown on the plans? If the pushrod is too short, it will cause the bellcrank to swing too far forward, and up, and may result in the pushrod rubbing the floor. I would go over the geometry of this linkage carefully and try to come up with an adjustment that will work. IMO, bending of the pushrod is an absolute no-no. I remember having to fiddle with this quite a bit on my first -6A, but it worked out fine. Persevere. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/2nd tip-up/Tacoma WA I was installing the elevator pushrods yesterday and ran into some problems. First, maximum up elevator travel is limited by the forward pushrod bearing, which contacts the inside of the clevis on the control stick assembly before the clevis is within 1/8 inch of the F604 as Van's specifies. In my case, the bearing hits the clevis when it is still almost 1/2 inch from the F604. Second, down elevator travel is limited by the cutout in the F605. However, enlarging the cutout will not solve the problem because the pushrod is already very close to scraping on the underside of the floor. In fact, even if I somehow fix the problem with the bearing/clevis interference it looks like the pushrod will contact the underside of the floor with very little additional movement. I read in the archives about someone with a similar problem who filed the clevis and bent the pushrod for clearance. Has anyone else encountered this problem, and if so, what do you recommend? Bruce Stobbe RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: MoeJoe <moejoe03(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: RV Accident Report
What is a figure-eight hole? I probably should never have asked that, as I can't make one if I don't know what it is. I've made plenty of "oblong" holes. Moe Colontonio Cherry Hill, NJ RV-8 Rebuilding HS front spar because of "oblong" holes. > aircraft. The third rib of the left horizontal stabilizer was found to > have a 'figure-eight' hole--caused by careless construction technique on ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ShowCtrGuy <ShowCtrGuy(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: Re: Flight Simulator-98
<< Would the person with FS-98 designed to be an RV built please send me a copy so I can fly before getting mine built? >> Hey, I'd like to recieve a copy of this too.. just bought FS98 3 days ago.. Thanks in advance. Jeremy King RV4#3981 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: Engine Cowl and Heated Pitot Tubes
From: gretz-aero(at)Juno.com (Warren Gretz)
I have dedeided to sell my standard RV6 engine cowl. It has never been installed, no damage or scratches. I am in the Metro Denver area. Van's sells this cowl for $450 as part of the finish kit plus shipping. I will sell my cowl for $400, or offer that is close to this price, plus shipping. Also I now have in stock Heated Pitot Tubes! These are the AN5814 12 volt pitot tubes. Soon I will also have the AN5812 12 volt pitot tubes also. I have for some time been making the pitot tube mounting brackets and provide them in kit form for the RV aircraft. These mounting brackets are available for either the AN5814 or AN5812 pitot tubes in a chrome finish or paintable form. If you would like flyers on my products, please contact me and I will mail them out to you. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero 3664 East Lake Drive Littleton, CO 80121 (303) 770-3811 (leave message) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: lrivera(at)corp.home.net (Lawrence Rivera)
Subject: test
Accept me , do not bounce me!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Engine installation
Royce, It's been a while since I installed my new 0-320 from Van's but it sounds to me like you're in need of a little help. First off, I assume you've got an 0-320 D1A engine, unless you ordered a special model. You can check the data plate to be sure. Service Instruction 1472 dated August 12, l994 covers ALL Textron Lycoming aircraft engines. The D1A is a carbureted engine, thus there is no fuel servo which is for a fuel injected model, and no requirement to remove any risers. Since your engine has an oil filter, there is no oil screen to clean, but do clean the carburetor fuel inlet screen. None of this is mentioned in Tony's book because it isn't applicable to your engine. Also, the D1A does come with Slick mags, not Bendix. Good luck. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA Hi all, After bolting the Van's new o-320 engine into the RV-6A, I was carefully following the instructions in the wonderfull :-( owners manual and couldn't understand what they were talking about until I realised that this 1973 document covered dozens of different models/options. After removing the sparkplugs and letting the oil out and turning the engine as instructed, I tried to find a "oil strainer" . Is this the "oil suction screen" at the back(aft) of the sump? The Service Instruction (#1472) says to inspect the "induction riser". What is this? It has to be clean and dry before installing the "fuel servo". What's a "fuel servo"? If not oil free, clean the induction system in the sump. What is involved in this operation? "t may also be necessary to inspect, clean and reinstall the intake pipes." Don't tell me, these are the large tubes coming from the sump, right? Tony B's Engine book makes no mention of these operations when he installed his new engine in his RV-6A. I guess a detailed diagram of the engine supplied would be an unreasonable inclusion for an $18,000 engine. There isn't one picture with a spin-on oil filter. Forget about the new starter. My engine has 2 Slick magnetos not even mentioned. My model should have Bendix units Thanks Royce roycec(at)ozemail.com.au ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: RV Accident Report
Moe, a figure eight hole is an oblong hole except that it is made by drilling two holes too close to each other resulting in an oblong hole with two protruding sharp points somewhere in the middle that hasn't been hogged out yet to a long oblong hole, Moe or Les! BTW, I used to work with a guy named Moe. Guess what they called us??? Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA What is a figure-eight hole? I probably should never have asked that, as I can't make one if I don't know what it is. I've made plenty of "oblong" holes. Moe Colontonio Cherry Hill, NJ RV-8 Rebuilding HS front spar because of "oblong" holes. > aircraft. The third rib of the left horizontal stabilizer was found to > have a 'figure-eight' hole--caused by careless construction technique on ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: Re: RV Accident Report
From: jepilot(at)Juno.com (J E REHLER)
Fun to read. Thanks. J. E. Rehler RV6A flying Corpus Christi, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com>
Subject: Re: elevator pushrods
Date: Jan 12, 1998
>>I read in the archives about someone with a similar problem who filed the >>clevis and bent the pushrod for clearance. Has anyone else encountered >>this problem, and if so, what do you recommend? >> >>Bruce Stobbe >>RV-6 > >Bruce, > Cant add any constructive help, but am certain of one thing - I would never >(repeat never as many times as necessary for emphasis) bend the pushrod! > >Mike Wills Consider that a PUSH rod is in column compression sort of like driving a nail. Notice that once the nail is slightly bent it takes much less to bend it more? Don't bend push rods, ever, unless the designer/engineer designed it that way (even then I would question it). Mike is right! Dan Morris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
I chose a slider, because I spent so many nights at "White Castle" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RE:Elevator Control Horn and "Pop" rivets
>>Would it be acceptable to use Cherrymax or other type of pop rivet? >>Do any other ideas pop into your minds beside drilling out the skin >>rivets? >Negatory on the cherry max, this isn't as big a mistake as you might think. >I would just drill out the bottom side enough to get a bucking bar in there >and put in the correct AN rivets. Once you get started it won't seem like a >big deal. I would pad the top skin with something so you don't ding it with >the bucking bar. >Eric Henson Actually CherryMax (the trade name of a particular rivet) is an approved substitute for a driven rivet in almost any location on certified A/C. Beech gave me a letter authorizing replacement of any driven rivet with CherryMax on all Beech products. Cessna used to have an aversion to them in the wing spar for repairs, but they were legal everywhere else. Cherry publishes a chart showing the shear strength of driven and CherryMax rivets, and for all diameters the CherryMax is significantly higher. (Remember it has a steel stem.) If you pay $1 each for CherryMax, you are paying *WAY* too much. They are commonly available in TAP for $38/hundred and less. Still this is many times the cost of driven AD rivets, so only use them as required. As to the "other type of pop rivet", no way. AVEX are OK for holding things which aren't structural, and can be bought for ~$16/hundred, but never use "pop" rivets, they have no means to lock the stem, and usually don't have any corrosion protection either. Bob Steward, A&P IA AA-1B N8978L AA-5A N1976L ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Internal corrosion protection
Date: Jan 12, 1998
"Mills, Trevor R" > >As I have just ordered my RV8 empenage I have many choices to make. >One that I would like some help with is "Internal corrosion protection" >I have spoken to a few local flyers and found many option's. > >NO.1 US paint Systems Alumiprep/Alodine/Primer > >NO.2 Clean / Primer > >The question? Is NO.1 an overkill and will NO.2 do the job. > >(I have seen a lot of Cessna's that were shinny inside and also a lot of >20 to 30 year old gliders.) Trevor, It largely depends on your environment..and how you intend to park the plane...tied down or hangared? I live in New Mexico..mostly dry, arid dessert climate..but also have some heavy rains at times. I have chosen to prime (Du Pont Vari-prime) all internal surfaces after a mild scuffing with Scotchbrite pad and a solvent cleaning. Vari-Prime is self etching, and does not need any additional chemical treatment to the bare surface before spraying. I know this is not really necessary..but I'm looking waaay down the line someday..what if I get an offer on my plane from someone who lives in a coastal (wet) area that is too hard to pass up? It would be like tearing out my heart, but...???? There are also more moderate measures: you can only prime non-alclad parts, and save a LOT of time and primer cost. But you MUST prime or corrosion proof in some way, the steel parts. Any open area of alclad that is not in contact with another part, can be left as is. One other point, as soon as your tail kit arrives..clean and prime the steel parts...they can start corroding even before you receive them! The steel elevator horns had a fine layer of corrosion on the welds as I removed them from the crate...so I buffed them, cleaned them and primered with three coats of Vari prime. Once corrosion starts...it cannot be 100% removed..tiny pits develop..so it's best to stop it NOW. Hope this helps..and welcome to the club! Brian Denk -8 #379 wings ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: elevator pushrods
Illegal-Object: Syntax error in References: value found on mail.telusplanet.net: References: ^-illegal end of message identification n5lp wrote: > > I wish someone could tell me how to fix my canopy frame interferences. > I'm about to take a grinder to my beautiful panel to get the frame to > come down far enough. > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > Pacer N8025D > RV-6QME N441LP Reserved > Larry, I am at to same place on my tip up canopy and resolved the interferance problem with the instrument panel by grinding a small relief in the side forward canopy weldement. About 1/8" on each side right beside the instrument panel gave me enough room to make it all fit. The only other idea I have if that won't work is to make the instrument panel slightly narrower. Good luck on your project. Doug Murray RV-6 working on tip up canopy frame ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: Re: first flight!
First flight was brief, however as the testing progresses I'll pass along all the performance data. Walt. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: elevator pushrods
les williams wrote: > > > Bruce, > > I think someone recently posted that it is necessary to remove a bit of the > clevis (yoke) weldment to keep the pushrod bearing from contacting it. I > don't like the idea of doing that on such an important part unless it is > first approved by Van's. > > Bruce Stobbe > RV-6 I called Van,s a week or so ago and was told to grind a little of the weld out in the control yoke. It get the correct clearance ( I was 3/4" short of the forward measurement) I ground out less than 1/8" on the rear half of the yoke. The folks at Van,s gave me the impression that the small amount needed to be removed would not harm the integrity of the part. Doug Murray RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: masking tape!!!!!
Some advice and a question: DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? thanks, Walt. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Elevator alignment
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 12, 1998
What is the proper amount of threads considered to be safe? Thanks alot. Michael. (It sure looks better >with >the elvator tips lined up) > > > Michael, They system is designed so that if both the jam nuts came loose and the tube began to rotate; It should bottom out on the jam nut and rod end that it is threading on to before it threads itself all the way off of the opposite end. For this safety to be in place, both rod ends must be threaded in at least a distance slightly longer than 1/2 of the threads on the longest rod end. Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 12, 1998
>Can the RV-8 be flown with the canopy slid open? No! I thought I saw a >picture somewhere. I am also looking for a picture of a black RV-4 >that >I saw in a magazine a few months back. Is there a reason why there are >so few black aircraft out there? Heat build-up? Yes! Visibility? Yes! Nice looking.... No! (my opinion) Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing Spar Flange Strips
<19980112.100552.11374.0.rvpilot(at)juno.com>
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Your spar ,if anything , will be stronger >because >the stresses will be more evenly distributed along its length. > Lighter Yes! Stronger; Not necessarily! Tapering the spar stiffeners has always been an option not a requirement (It definitely reduces weight, and allows more room for the tank nut plates). I posted to this thread because far to often I see Ideas posted that are based on Theory not verified testing. I also am not meaning to pick on Bill by any means, but their are so many new (or potential) builders on this list that I don't want anyone to get the wrong idea from something that someone else says, and I hope you all call me on anything that I say that sounds misleading. The basis for my comment is that until someone has tested a wing to destruction they don't know where it fails. The weak point could already be located at the root rib. If so then anything you do (for strength) outside of that point is worthless. Do it to save weight, not because you think it will make the wing fail at 9.5 G's instead of 9 G's. Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Securing Interior Panels
What about using sticky back Velcro? Mike Robbins RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: Internal corrosion protection
> > As I have just ordered my RV8 empenage I have many choices to >make. One that I would like some help with is "Internal corrosion protection". I have spoken to a few local flyers and found many option's. > > NO.1 US paint Systems Alumiprep/Alodine/Primer > > NO.2 Clean / Primer > > The question? Is NO.1 an overkill and will NO.2 do the job. David Carter replies: I don't think using alodine is overkill (phosphoric acid PPG DX579 is the equivalent treatment for steel brackets). > I'm building an RV-6 in Nederland, TX (SE Tex Gulf Coast humidity) and have opted for total internal protection. I put on latex rubber exam gloves (to protect skin and keep skin oil off of parts), (1) use PPG DX330 Degreaser and scrub with 800 grit red Scotchbrite pad, then take to kitchen sink for ribs & other small stuff (or bathtub with homemade 3 mil plastic liner to avoid dark alum. marks on porcelin for HS spar parts), (2) wash with warm water & liquid dish soap, rinse, and dry. Then I immediately use plastic wash "basin" (or section of plastic roof gutter/drain with ends sealed with silicone adhesive for long HS spar parts), (3) slosh with PPG 533 acid etch cleaner brightener for 3', rinse in sink or gutter section, dry (to avoid mineral spots). I skip the acid etch if part is alclad - not needed. The ribs don't look alclad (dark with sfc corrosion). Rinse the container and (4) slosh each part for 3' with PPG 503 gold alodine. (THIS STUFF GETS WEAK FAST - today did 6 ribs that go between aft and fwd spars of HS and used a 3oz plastic cup of alodine for 2 ribs. The third rib using same liquid would not change color enough to be effective, so use new chemical fairly frequently. If I was to do my spar parts again, I'd change the alodine liquid more frequently than I did.) Rinse WELL and dry (I use lots of paper towels) (5) Same day - don't wait overnight is universal emphais by all the tech supt people & literature - spray on your choice of zinc chromate primer. I have done a complete surface coverage and cost comparison of PPG, Sherwin Williams, DuPont, and Pratt & Lambert and chose Pratt & Lambert epoxy zinc chromate as 1) least expensive per square foot, 2) used by major companies for commercial painting of aircraft, & 3) simple mixture (1:1 of green stuff and the adduct/catalyst/activator). Dallas, TX, dealer (in Mesquite, actually) ph is 214-216-9698. Company Lab in Wichita, KS is 316-733-1361. I use a DeVilbiss HVLP top load gun that cost $79 March 1997 from local PPG store - brand new product line. It uses standard air compressor (I'm using 2hp Sears 20 gal tank) with air gage and regulator at heel of paint gun, I set 8 or 10 psi and it does a fine job. YOU DON'T NEED THE EXPENSIVE ($4-500) "VACUUM CLEANER" (TURBINE) AIR SUPPLY ANYMORE!!!!, i.e., there's no reason to use a std paint gun anymore, for any reason - cost or otherwise. Mix paint in glass bowl, not "waxed paper cup"! I use two air driers in line, downstream of the Sears "clear glass whatever-it-is-that-does nothing" to remove moistuer in air: Paid $30 for a 3 foot air hose with male quick disconnect fittings on both ends that goes on air compressor, then used MD60 "roll of (toilet) paper filter" to dry air, and put a silica gel drier down stream from that (connected with a 90 degree fitting and short piece of pipe, both laying on ground by air compressor, with no weight/strain on the pipe sticking out side of air compressor). When silica gel starts turning from blue to pink, I know to change the filter roll in first and bake silica gel in 2nd until it is blue again. Without the "roll of paper" drier, metal parts that I spray air on get drippy wet, along with my hand. With the drier, they do not get wet. This means my fisheyes and other blemishes are not due to water, but to "too wet" adjustment or dwell time on part or other applicator errors of a first time builder. Sorry for the long post, but I spent weeks researching this so I could paint my first parts (the center bearing assembly) way back last year when I started. Call me at (409) 722-7259, fax at (409) 722-6733, e-mail dcarter(at)datarecall.net. Good luck, and high resistance/immunity to "plans/book frustration". David Carter, RV-6 Horizontal Stab & V. Stab spars (and wing kit waiting in box) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: elevator pushrods
> > Larry, > > Can you describe what interferences you're having with your canopy frame? I > assume it is a tip-up. Have you contacted the factory for advice? > Les, I will try to describe it but I don't have the drawings with me so I am short on part numbers. The front aluminum weldment has two flat pieces oriented fore and aft that come back and connect to some aluminum rod. These flat pieces contact the top of the panel and prevent the front of the canopy frame from coming down enough. Originally I was trying to bend the weldment around the panel but this made the rear of that front weldment way too narrow. I had already spread the front part of the weldment 1/2 inch. At this time I contacted Tom at Van's. He gave me some dimensions to check like the width of the bulkhead the spar goes through. That dimension is correct. I haven't called again. I checked all the panel dimensions. They are correct. I really can not see anything to do except grind slots in the panel or widen the weldment by cutting the aluminum tube and splicing a piece in then wrapping the weldment around the panel. Slots in the panel seems the lesser of two evils. I've gotten real used to "hogging out metal" to make things fit. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6Q Canopy Frame ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Adjusting Voltage Regulator
Craig, I think you should first make sure that the battery is fully charged before condemning the regulator. While running the engine at high idle (1200 rpm or so) and all accessories off, the battery is likely not fully charged if the ammeter shows above 10 amps. If it is above that, either run the engine until it drops below 10 amps or put the battery on a charger, then check the voltage again to see if it has made any difference. I believe the ambient temperature also has an effect on charging voltage. The lower the temp, the higher the voltage. Personally I would not worry about charging at 14.5 volts if the battery is not fully charged or the ambient air temperature is below 65 degrees. My auto battery charger puts out 16.1 volts verified with a DMM at around 50 degrees while hooked up to my Micro Encoder and Micromonitor on the test bench. The only other thing that might exist is that the voltage regulator you have may have been adjusted for the gel cell batteries that Van's used to carry. I don't know when they switched over to the RG batteries. If you got the regulator quite a while ago, this might be the problem, although I think it was adjusted higher than 14.5 volts for the gel cells. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA ----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Craig Hiers Sent: Sunday, January 11, 1998 10:24 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting Voltage Regulator SCOTT R MCDANIELS wrote: > You should not adjust the regulator with the engine running for > chance that you could raise the voltage too high and damage something, > but you do have to check it with it running and everything powered up > otherwise the alternator and regulator aren't functioning. > Also I don't thing 13.8 Volts is the proper value, but that > depends on what battery you are using. > At Van's we set the reg. to provide a voltage of about 14.2 or > 14.3 being measured at the bus by the instruments ( with the small amount > of voltage drop between there and the battery that puts the battery > voltage at 14.1 or 14.2 or so). I don't know if that is exactly the > correct setting but we get good life from our RG batteries and it seems > to work well through out the different temp. conditions that we encounter > during the year. > As for adjusting the reg. make very small changes at a time and > then recheck the output. I am pretty sure that counter clockwise on the > pot. lowers the voltage; and clockwise raises it, but after you make the > first adjustment double check that it is going the correct way. > Only turn it about 1/8 of a turn at a time to prevent over doing > it and maybe damaging something. > I believe what you are primarily adjusting is the charge voltage of the > battery so the most precise way would be with a DVM on the battery > terminals and set the reg for the battery charge voltage that you want, > regardless of what your panel instrument says the buss voltage is. > Hope this helps. > > Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. > These opinions and ideas are my own > and do not necessarily reflect the opinions > of my employer. > I was told the non-ajustable regulator that I installed was set at 13.8 volts, my RMI was showing 14.5 volts. So I did what any good builder would do, chock the wheels, tie the tail wheel down, jump in fire it up and shove my head under the instrument panel with a digital meter. The meter showed 14.5, so the RMI monitor is right. Now what do I do? A) replace the regulator B) just leave it and hope for the best C) throw a tantrum fit D) drink heavily for 4-5 days and pretend the whole thing never happend. Inquiring minds want to know? Craig Hiers RV-4 N143CH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: masking tape!!!!!
> >Some advice and a question: > >DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a >extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it >leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. >Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? > > thanks, Walt. > Walt, ... Isopropyl alchohol will help and is safe on all your parts (and won't even remove VariPrime ...:^) It will just sort of soften the tape residue, and gentle scraping or rolling will probaly be needed. But I disagree with "DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project" statement. You just have the wrong tape. ONLY use the 3M Long Life masking tape (the blue stuff). I just removed stuff that has been on my fuselage for over a year with no problem ... just came right off. I don't have any other kind in my workshop, and it's available at your local friendly hardware store, or Home Depot. Gil (use the blue tape) Alexander ------------------------------------ RV6A, #20701, finishing kit "REPLY" sends to entire RV-list mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: masking tape!!!!!
Mineral spirits, turpentine or paint thinner will do it. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA Some advice and a question: DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? thanks, Walt. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LesDrag <LesDrag(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Re: RV Accident Report (Chatter)
> >What is a figure-eight hole? I probably should never have asked that, as >I can't make one if I don't know what it is. I've made plenty of "oblong" holes. > >Moe Colontonio >Cherry Hill, NJ >RV-8 >Rebuilding HS front spar because of "oblong" holes. > Figure-eight holes have a center to center distance greater than 0.5 diameter and less than 1.0 diameter. This is covered in the Structural Repair Manual (SRM) Chapter 53-22-11, figure 3. ;-) BTW, oblong holes have a center to center distance of .5 diameter, or less. IMHO, if you are drilling oblong holes, you need sharper drills; preferably with the second grind at the point. Standard high speed steel drills aren't normally ground properly for drilling aluminum. Jim Ayers LesDrag(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rokinron" <rokinron(at)lightspeed.net>
Subject: Re: Cell Phones
Date: Jan 13, 1998
yea i read it along wiht teh 80 other messages fo mali that i haev beenreeding since eihtg oclocky. its late and my eyes are crossed. oh by the way, would you happen to have an airborne vacuum pump in your pocket? mine broke#$@^^&%!!@#* aint notin 300 smackers won't handle-- new world math -- avaition = $ + $ cubed = fun (sometimes) check your wallet Ron ---------- | Cellular Frequently Asked Questions - From FCC Web Page | http://www.fcc.gov/wtb/cellular/cellfaq.html | 9. Can I use my cellular phone in aircraft (to include hot air balloons, | etc.) | Answer: | Section 22.925 of the Commission's rules, 47 CFR Part 22, provides that | cellular telephones installed in or carried aboard | airplanes, balloons or anyother type of aircraft must not be operated while | such aircraft are airborne (not touching the | ground). When any aircraft leaves the ground, all cellular telephones on board | that aircraft must be turned off. The | following notice must be posted on or near each cellular telephone installed | in | any aircraft: | "The use of cellular telephones while this aircraft is airborne is prohibited | by FCC rules, and the violation of this rule could | result in suspension of service and/or a fine. The use of cellular telephones | while this aircraft is on the ground is subject to | FAA regulations." | Clear to me.. | -- | Jeffrey S. Davis | Senior Research Engineer | Advance Vehicle Technology | Ford Motor Company | Phone (313)845-5224 Fax (313)845-4781 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au
Date: Jan 12, 1998
Subject: Re: 6A Slider frame
> Should the frame > be about one plexiglas thickness below a forward extension of the turtle > deck skins? Aim to get the projected line of the skin to meet the middle of the bow. This will give a slight convergence of the skirt and skin lines. You won't achieve this right down the sides, but get as close as you can. Unless you cut the bow and reweld it at the centre, The top bow will make the plexi sit off the rear bow. I used shims, but I'd be tempted to completely reweld the rear bow if I were doing it again. I had to use too many shims for my liking, the max being 1/4" (and that's after lengthening and rewelding the right siderear bow). > 2. Is it important that the side rails be parallel with the main longerons, > as viewed from the side? Unless I shorten the rear canopy bows, the side > rails are going to have to be lower at the aft end than at the front. I disagree with Scott McDaniels on this. If you raise the rear of the tracks slightly, SHAPINGTHE SIDE SKIRTS TO MATCH, the front of the side skirts won't foul the longerons at the rear of the slide range. Whatever you do, don't make the rear of the tracks lower though. Welding tabs along the side bows is a huge help in aligning the side skirts, BTW. Peter Bennett Sydney Australia RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Re: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
Black Aircraft: Mattiuck - The Engine People own a RV4 - I meet the Texas Rep out at Mattituck this past Summer. The Aircraft is BLACK with RED Lettering along the side that says " MATTITUCK " looked like a great paint job. They were not the original purchaser, the took the project over from another builder. They are also in the process of building another RV - The Texas Rep only had GREAT THINGS to say about Van's & The RV. FYI Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM Wing ribs going in! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com>
Subject: Re: first flight!
Congradtulation Walt Your message was brief also. What version did you fly and any interesting impressions/reactions during flight? Ed RV-6A N494BW Awaiting Inspection Rvator97 wrote: > > First flight was brief, however as the testing progresses I'll pass along all > the performance data. > > Walt. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com>
Subject: masking tape!!!!!
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Aircraft spruce has a product called mask off that has worked well for me. -----Original Message----- From: Rvator97 [SMTP:Rvator97(at)aol.com] Sent: Monday, January 12, 1998 10:58 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: masking tape!!!!! Some advice and a question: DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? thanks, Walt. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com>
Subject: Re: elevator pushrods
You guys have got me convinced I need to go back and check my controls as I don't recall any problem in that area - so else I got a "better" control weldment or I don't realize I have a problem. Ed Douglas G. Murray wrote: > > les williams wrote: > > > > > > Bruce, > > > > I think someone recently posted that it is necessary to remove a bit of the > > clevis (yoke) weldment > > > > Bruce Stobbe > > RV-6 > > I called Van,s a week or so ago and was told to grind a little of the > weld out in the control yoke.Doug Murray > RV-6 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Spar Flange Strips
Date: Jan 13, 1998
The 6 flanges come tapered except for the longest and thinnest one which I just rounded over. I figured I was more likely to screw it up by tapering that long piece. Since it is the thin one, little weight gain. ---------- > > > I would like to know if it is worth it to taper the spar flange strips. > Does it save very much weight? Are they stronger if they are left alone and > not tapered? > Thanks for any replies. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Eckstein" <eckstein@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Cowl and Heated Pitot Tubes
Date: Jan 13, 1998
> > Also I now have in stock Heated Pitot Tubes! These are the AN5814 12 volt > pitot tubes. Warren, I've got your mount kit for this tube. What size of tubing and wire do I need to rough in for it? Thanks Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Re: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
<< Mattiuck - The Engine People own a RV4 - I meet the Texas Rep out at Mattituck this past Summer. The Aircraft is BLACK with RED Lettering along the side that says " MATTITUCK " looked like a great paint job. They were not the original purchaser, the took the project over from another builder. They are also in the process of building another RV - The Texas Rep only had GREAT THINGS to say about Van's & The RV. FYI Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM Wing ribs going in! >> You're referring to Bruce Bohannon, of Pushy Galore fame (Thats MISTER time-to climb to you, pal). His whole team is nuts about airplanes, especially ones that go fast. My shop is doing some of the the sheet metal work (fuselage, with re-inforcements) for this project. You fellas won't believe what this monster is gonna do when it finally flies, sometime this summer. Even Tim Taylor would be impressed! I will admit to the installation of a VERY healthy Lyc, built by the fine folks at Mattituck. I could tell you about some other tricks, but then I'd have to kill you. ;-) Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Re: Securing Interior Panels
<< What about using sticky back Velcro? >> The velcro won't let go, but the glue holding the velvro the the panel will. Bennair Dunnatt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: RE:Elevator Control Horn
and "Pop" rivets Unistar Computers wrote: > If you pay $1 each for CherryMax, you are paying *WAY* too much. They are > commonly available in TAP for $38/hundred and less. Still this is many > times the cost of driven AD rivets, so only use them as required. Bob, OK, give me a hint. Who or what is TAP? Charlie Kuss by the spray paints) and K Mart (near the kitchen floor waxes). It comes in a small (6oz?), clear plastic bottle with a yellow and black label. It is citric acid based. It is completely harmless to all materials including plexiglass and clear plastics. Soak the tape, wait 5 minutes and the tape comes right off. IMPORTANT Do Not buy Goof Off (a competitor) This stuff is petroleum based and doesn't work worth a hill of beans IMHO. WD40 also works well, however, it contains silicone. This is not something you want to get on your primer. It will cause fisheyes in your finish paint. Ask any professional painter. Charlie Kuss RV-8 elevators Remade E-615PP shim out of aluminium Boca Raton, Fl. s with more info on these two products? Charlie Kuss RV8 Boca Raton, Fl. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson)
Subject: An oopsie to not make
Date: Jan 13, 1998
I just thought I would warn people who are about to start drilling their wing skins to not skip a step that I glossed over. There's a 1.5-inch aluminum strip from the trim kit that is used as a splice plate between the outboard forward skins and the take skins. It goes between the innermost forward rib and the forward skin. It's drilled in combination. The proper procedure seems to be drill it all at once. I, of course, glossed over that part in the directions and had to do it later. Not a big deal, but kind of a pain, as you need to NOT drill the rib twice, and you can't see the rib with the strip in place, so you can't see if you're going to hit the same holes you hit before. If you're thinking "forward skins" and not thinking "tanks", it's maybe an easy mistake to make. Or maybe I'm just an idiot. (At least I caught it by the second wing.) -Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: three questions answered
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Paul and Janet Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Thanks to the many RV listers who took time to answer my post with three questions. Here are the answers I recieved: 1. Shielding power wires to remote strobe powersupplies is unneccessary. (12 replies - unanimous opinion, too.) 2. I'm on my own building baffles for my IO-360. ( rats! ) 3. I do need a special type of valve for the sump drain - It's called a "snuffle valve". Now back to work... I hate fiberglass work so much that I get a lot of things done other places on the RV to avoid the wheelpants, etc. Cheers, Paul 6A IO-360 90% done/90% to go _____________________________________ * The Leins * * 1555 South Brinton Road * * Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628 * * (517) 644-2451 * _____________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Lycoming 0-360 A1A for sale
Dale, I haven't forgotten you, I'm still working on this end. This will probably take the rest of the week to figure things out. I will be in touch. -Gene ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Re: masking tape!!!!!
From: rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr)
Walt, Soak it with naptha ( Coleman fuel ) it will come off. Regards, Bill RV4 N66WD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: Where to buy Cherry Max rivets was Re: RV-List:
RE:Elevator Control Horn and "Pop" rivets Charlie, I think TAP is Trade-A-Plane. You can kick yourself or smack your forehead now, your choice. Al > >Unistar Computers wrote: > >> If you pay $1 each for CherryMax, you are paying *WAY* too much. They are >> commonly available in TAP for $38/hundred and less. Still this is many >> times the cost of driven AD rivets, so only use them as required. > >Bob, >OK, give me a hint. Who or what is TAP? > >Charlie Kuss ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Re: Wing Spar Flange Strips
<19980108.092959.9702.11.SMCDANIELS(at)juno.com>
From: rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr)
Scott, You are quite correct. Poor choice of words on my part. I did not mean to imply that the wing would be stronger than the specified design "G" rating, only that tapering the strips would reduce possible stress risers where the full width strips left off. The wing spar will certainly be no weaker after tapering the flange strips. Regards, Bill RV4 N66WD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com>
Subject: Re: masking tape!!!!!
Try "Goo Gone". Available at finer drug stores and wherever snake oil is sold. Chris > > Some advice and a question: > > DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a > extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it > leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. > Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? > > thanks, Walt. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Pushy Galore: was Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
>You're referring to Bruce Bohannon, of Pushy Galore fame (Thats MISTER time-to climb to you, pal). His whole team is nuts about airplanes, especially ones that go fast. My shop is doing some of the the sheet metal work (fuselage, with re-inforcements) for this project. You fellas won't believe what this monster is gonna do when it finally flies, sometime this summer.< I missed part of this thread. Is Pushy being retired / replaced by a Rocket? Scott A. Jordan -8, waiting for wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Marc Hanson <paintbox(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: All jigged up over the jig
Will be ordering tail kit this week! But, I'm all worked up over building the jig. May be making more of this than it's worth and am looking for advice from any veterans out there.(I'm building the 6A) Here are my ?????'s: 1-I am building in a basement with concrete floor, but sheet-rocked and painted ceiling.Holes cut into the ceiling seem minor,( compared to removing the sliding patio door to get the fuse out someday),but if there is a free-standing jig option...??? 2-I've been thinking about building a jig that would just be big enough for the emmpenage for space saving right now. If that is a reasonable thing to do, what would I need for the HORIZONTAL distance between the uprights? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Marc Hanson paintbox(at)rconnect.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: JIM RUZICKA UNIVERSITY OF NEW MEXICO HOSPITAL (4-EAST) (505)272-2172 <JRUZICKA(at)mozart.unm.edu>
Subject: Re: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
I am in the process of tooling up and setting up my shop to start work on a RV-6. I was looking through the Avery and Cleavland tool catalogues and was wondering if anyone out there had any ideas on which C-frame tool is the most versatile.. The price is about the same. Thanks in advance for any ideas/opinions on the way to go here. Jim Ruzicka ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
>Tip up canopy. Do I make the frame as wide >as the fuselage longerons, or am I supposed to leave the thickness of >the skirt? Are the skirts supposed to over hang the fuselage sides or do >they butt up to the side skins just above the cockpit rails? If they >butt up to the rails, what seals the canopy? >Doug Murray Doug, As I remember, the plans call for the canopy side skins to be flush with the fuselage longerons. On my tip up, I elected to overlap the side skins which requires wider material for the canopy skirts and possibly new material for the canopy forward skin. I made the forward and rear of the new canopy skirts line up with the bottom edge of the forward and rear fuselage skins. My feeling was that it would be easier to seal out cold air with this overlap. Also, alignment is not as critical. I have seen too many tip ups that were flush that didn't match up well. With the wider side skirts, you can do a little "tweaking" to allow for any over or under width condition of the canopy frame in this area. If you do this, I would recommend the addition of a guide to the F-621A that will help the front corner of the front canopy skin to pass over the fuselage side. I used a piece of 1/4" aluminum with a 45 degree bevel on it. I slotted this piece for "in & out" adjustment and attached it to a nutplate installed on the bottom of F-621A. I put some thin UHMW tape on the 45 degree slope and on the inside of the front canopy skin to eliminate wear. Bob Skinner RV-6 390 hr. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Re: All jigged up over the jig
I had the same situation as far as concrete floor and sheetrocked ceilings, etc. I checked into the free standing jig, but it looks like quite a bit of work for something that can't work for the wings. Your best bet if possible is to go ahead and build the jig as shown in the plans. No holes in the ceiling or floor are necessary; I used one of those u-shaped metal brackets used in construction to mount 4 x 4 posts. Just attach the bracket to a ceiling rafter with screws and then attach the 4 x 4 to that. Down on the concrete, I simply used liquid nails construction glue in caulk tube to glue the bottom of the 4 x 4 to the floor, using a thick filet of it around the base, in addition to under it. This has worked great for my last 2 jigs. When you are done with it, just hit it with a sledge hammer (after cutting with razor knife), then scrape the glue residue off the floor. On the RV-8 the wing jig is only a foot or two longer than for the HS, so you would be better off to just get set up for both while you are at it. Von Alexander MAlexan533(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Re: masking tape!!!!!
What about removing the residue from the plexigalss? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1998
From: Joe Belany <jsbelany(at)win.bright.net>
Subject: Re: masking tape!!!!!
Rvator97 wrote: > > > Some advice and a question: > > DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a > extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it > leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. > Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? > > thanks, Walt.Walt, I have been using a product called "Goo Gone", bought it at the hardware store. My uses are on wood, so I don't know what the side affects would be on metal. This stuff works wonders on anything sticky, it even removes dried glue. I have not had a problem with this stuff staining the wood either. Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: battery problem
I made the mistake of letting my new battery sit unused in the plane for 4-5 months; now it is only putting out 11 volts or so. I have tried re-charging it at 14.5 volts with a regulated charger but can't seem to get it back to proper voltage. Is this battery history? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: elevator pushrods
And once it is bent, don't straighten it, replace it! hal > Consider that a PUSH rod is in column compression sort of like driving a > nail. Notice that once the nail is slightly bent it takes much less to bend > it more? Don't bend push rods, ever, unless the designer/engineer designed > it that way (even then I would question it). Mike is right! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: C-frame tool
Jim, I think you will find only minor differences in the various tools. Mine is from U.S. Industrial Tool supply and it works fine. Check out this page on my RV6 site for a way to mount the C-frame that I highly recommend: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/odd-ends.html Good luck on your project, and don't hesitate to ask questions! Sam Buchanan sbuc(at)traveller.com http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 JIM RUZICKA UNIVERSITY OF NEW MEXICO HOSPITAL (4-EAST) (505)272-2172 wrote: > > > I am in the process of tooling up and setting up my shop to start work on a > RV-6. I was looking through the Avery and Cleavland tool catalogues and was > wondering if anyone out there had any ideas on which C-frame tool is the most > versatile.. The price is about the same. > > Thanks in advance for any ideas/opinions on the way to go here. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Subject: Re: All jigged up over the jig
> Down on the concrete, I simply >used liquid nails construction glue in caulk tube to glue the bottom of the 4 >x 4 to the floor, using a thick filet of it around the base, in addition to >under it. This has worked great for my last 2 jigs. When you are done with it, >just hit it with a sledge hammer (after cutting with razor knife), then >scrape the glue residue off the floor. A little acetone will also help to remove the construction adhesive from a concrete floor. Mark Nielsen RV-6; flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: Re: All jigged up over the jig
Marc Hanson wrote: > > > Will be ordering tail kit this week! But, I'm all worked up over > building the jig. May be making more of this than it's worth and am > looking for advice from any veterans out there.(I'm building the 6A) Marc, Try not to get too torqued about the jig. The only purpose of the jig is to hold the assemblies straight and to impress other builders. > > Here are my ?????'s: > 1-I am building in a basement with concrete floor, but sheet-rocked and > painted ceiling.Holes cut into the ceiling seem minor,( compared to > removing the sliding patio door to get the fuse out someday),but if > there is a free-standing jig option...??? The jig pictured on my RV6 site was free-standing when I inherited it. It had simple 2x4 "feet" which were braced to the uprights with 2x4s. I removed the feet and mounted it to the floor and ceiling since this was no problem in my shop and I wanted to avoid tripping over the jig's and my own feet: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/ready.html > > 2-I've been thinking about building a jig that would just be big enough > for the emmpenage for space saving right now. If that is a reasonable > thing to do, what would I need for the HORIZONTAL distance between the > uprights? Mine is 108" between uprights. A plumb bob arrangement is most helpful. > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. You are very welcome, and good luck with the project! Sam Buchanan sbuc(at)traveller.com http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "Patrick E. Kelley" <webmstr(at)kalitta.com>
Subject: Re: All jigged up over the jig
Marc Hanson wrote: > > Will be ordering tail kit this week! But, I'm all worked up over > building the jig. May be making more of this than it's worth and am > looking for advice from any veterans out there.(I'm building the 6A) > > Here are my ?????'s: > 1-I am building in a basement with concrete floor, but sheet-rocked and > painted ceiling.Holes cut into the ceiling seem minor,( compared to > removing the sliding patio door to get the fuse out someday),but if > there is a free-standing jig option...??? Check the archives, plenty of info on this. However, in brief: see my pictures at http://ic.net/~patk/rv-6a.htm and you will see my version of a free-standing jig. The jig (or fixture, if you prefer) is only for holding parts in alignment; make sure to measure all alignments on the parts, not the jig. (It is possible to have misaligned parts on a perfectly true jig and perfectly aligned parts on a crooked jig.) More important than trueness is that the fixture is stable; it should not move while parts are clamped in it. Mine has turnbuckles galore for alignment, but I measure and check relentlessly during building to make sure that I haven't bumped it out of line. > 2-I've been thinking about building a jig that would just be big enough > for the emmpenage for space saving right now. If that is a reasonable > thing to do, what would I need for the HORIZONTAL distance between the > uprights? If you need to save space now, will you be able to build the bigger parts later? However, if you are sizing the jig with an eye toward building the wings on it, the wing should be suspended between the uprights, with enough room for the arms they will be suspended on. I seem to recall that the wing spans 104" from root rib to tip. If you use 1.5" steel angle to hang the wings on, then you want 107" inside the uprights (the actual distance may be different; I don't have the plans in front of me). Also, you will need to be able to get rid of that cross-member; if you are building a free-standing jig, make allowance for this. Good luck, and spend more time building your kit than you do on the jig. PatK - RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: Internal corrosion protection
>Charlie Kuss wrote: David Carter wrote: > > I use a DeVilbiss HVLP top load gun that cost $79 March 1997 from local PPG store - > > brand new product line. . . > > (also) used MD60 [actually, M30 - disregard MD60] "roll of (toilet) paper filter" to dry the > > air - and put a silica gel drier down stream from that (connected with a 90 degree fitting > > and short piece of pipe, both laying on ground by air compressor, > > David, > Could you supply us with more info on these two products? HVLP paint gun: "FinishLine, by ITW DeVILBISS", made in England, model FLG-631, comes with 1/2 liter gravity cup" (FLG-621 comes with 1 liter suction cup). - Cost me $174 [ not $79 that I mis-stated in last post] local PPG autopaint store. Was a brand new item that just came in stock the week I was shopping - I was about to buy a used hi press DeVilbiss from an auto paint shop for $150!! - Absolutely works with standard air supply systems - no special "turbine" supply needed. - Caution, to avoid damage to gun: When you are fiddling around trying to figure out what combination of pipe thread fittings to use: DO NOT REMOVE THE METAL FITTING that goes into bottom of the plastic/composite handle of the gun - says so in instructions but it seemed so natural to "examine it" [ignorantly]; it is sealed & rips out the composite threads & peels some of metal threads off of the fitting. I barely repaired mine with a dental pick to clean internal threads - lady at customer svc that sent me the free replacement metal fitting said "lots of people do that" (!!!) Don't be one of them. - I'm painting such small batches of parts, and have such monumental "buck fever" everytime I pull the trigger, that I'm a bit slow to get the adjustments down just right - I'm still learning to paint! However, based on yesterday (3rd use of gun) I use not more than 10psi at heel of gun. There are two other knobs, 1 for "round" pattern or "flat [just a vertical line of paint coming out" - I use "flat to avoid getting too much paint on a surface; the other knob is "wetness": It is 6 turns from full in (max dry) to full wet. I used 2 turns out from full dry yesterday and it was way too wet. I'll start with 1/2 turn next batch. I try to practice on paper on the wall before I hit the parts but I'm not seeing all I should in those brief practice sessions. Think I need to be more conservative with wetness and make more passes over the part instead of "gooping" it up as I hit it from 45 degrees left and right to get rib flanges, then straight on to get big flat "webs" - its already been too wet by then. - I always save the little bit of left over paint and use little pieces of sponge rubber as "paint pops" to go over spots I missed - I miss a corner or back side of a tab or flange every time. "Roll of paper filter/air dryer": "M-30 Filter" (inlet & outlet on bottom of unit) or "M-60" (in-line inlet & outlet on opposite sides at top of unit) - same price, from Motor Guard Corporation, Manteca, Calif, 1-800-227-2822 (call for local retailer - they only sell to warehouses/dealers). Bought mine from local sign & auto paint store for $67.50 (mfr sug retail is $76). Best to use their paper roll filters, suggested retail $24.75 for box of 4 ($6 ea). Lady says some users even remove moist rolls and let them air dry & re-use them. My local guy says can use Charmen (sp?) toilet paper in emergency. Company says toilet paper used should be 1.5 inch inside diameter core, 4.5 inches high, 500 sheets 2 ply. - This is same concept as used for auto oil filters back in 1970s, just a different application - to provide dry air. Really works in my high humidity application on Gulf Coast. I just did a post on the "desiccant air dryer" a few minutes ago so won't repeat it here. David Carter, RV-6 empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: An oopsie to not make
jpl(at)showpg.mn.org wrote: > The proper procedure seems to be drill it all at once. I, of course, > glossed > over that part in the directions and had to do it later. Not a big deal, > but > kind of a pain, as you need to NOT drill the rib twice, and you can't see > the rib with the strip in place, so you can't see if you're going to hit > the same holes you hit before. Hi Joe, I just finished drilling my first LE skin (including the W-623 flange strip). I didn't like the 'drill through the flange strip into the rib and hope' technique, so I drilled & clecoed skin to ribs 9-14 with flange strip in place, then pilot drilled skin to rib 8A without the flange strip, then backdrilled through the rib flange into the flange strip. Other wing-building tips at http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunny2b.htm. Remember to NOT dimple the 8A ribs. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: All jigged up over the jig
paintbox(at)rconnect.com wrote: > 1-I am building in a basement with concrete floor, > > 2-what would I need for the HORIZONTAL distance between the > uprights? These and many more questions are answered at http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunny0.htm or go to bunnytop.htm for an index to the the other Bunny's Guide pages. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: battery problem
> > I made the mistake of letting my new battery sit unused in the plane for 4-5 > months; now it is only putting out 11 volts or so. I have tried re-charging it > at 14.5 volts with a regulated charger but can't seem to get it back to proper > voltage. Is this battery history? I just received and studied brochures about a product that reverses the debilitating "suphation" (?) of battery plates, i.e., the adverse build up of sulphur crystals. The product causes the sulphur to go back into solution in the electrolyte, restoring the plates'/battery's capability to provide voltage & current. It costs so much that the company is getting a good chunk of your "payback" on regenerating the battery. My gut feel is that the technology is fine but the economics is marginal, at today's price. The basic product is not a charger, so is an additional cost over and above buying a charger for maintaining the battery's charge. Here's the product & source: True Air Service, Inc, 6344 28th Avenue East, Palmetto, FL 34221, 1-800-539-8842 fax 941-729-8525. Solargizer Battery Maintenance System $59.95 ($119.95 for industrial version with 110vac adapter to provide power if can't use solar panel on 19 or 25 foot cord. Another version, without solar panel, is PowerPulse Battery Maintenance System $69.95- uses battery's own power to do the same thing as the Solargizer - again requiring a charger to maintain charge. Both these devices ONLY reverse and then prevent sulphation (you leave them on all the time). However, the company literature implies that you do get a VERY slight amount of charging function from the Solargizer, as it is getting external energy, whereas the PowerPulse has no power but the battery's. The bottom line, I think, is that you need a charger - or need to run the engine - regularly. Also, you need the Solargizer or PwerPulse to prevent sulphation, which charging does not prevent. From a forum at Oshkosh, though, I believe keeping a battery charged does reduce the sulphation - it was stated by an expert that every deep discharge of a battery causes an increment of "irreversable" reduction of capacity. However, the Solargizer concept seems to explicitely state that "that reduction of capacity" IS reversable. The solar cell is sensitive to UV, which goes through clouds with hardly any loss. I have two old cars - 1 I don't drive at all, other I don't drive enough. Think I may try the Solargizer to regain & maintain capacity - and a charger to keep charge up. When I finish my RV, I'll move the Solargizer to it, to maintain battery capacity. David Carter, RV-6, empennage, Nederland, (SE) Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: Engine Overhaul
Ken Beene wrote: > It was running good but metal > was found in the filter during annual. The owner replaced it with a salvaged > engine and I bought the core from the owner. Upon teardown the cam and > lifters were found to be the problem as is common for these engines. It would > have been possible to replaced the cam and lifters and fly it as the plain > steel cylinders were within service limits - I decided to do a complete major > with an increase to 160 HP. Very wise to fully overhaul, in my opinion. Without a complete teardown, how would you get rid of the metal particles that were in oil galleries etc? This abrasive would quickly use up bearings etc causing safety risks and making overhaul even more expensive. How do you clean oil coolers for the Lycomings? Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating canopy halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <scott.vanartsdalen(at)lmco.com>
Subject: All jigged up over the jig
I have a garage that is finished. I screwed a 2x4 to the ceiling where my uprights were going to go. Then I put one upright at one end of the 2x4 and the other at the other end. I borrowed my jig from another local builder (Dennis Bailey, RV-6A. Thanks Dennis!) He used two steel u-channels. Each u-channel had a nut welded to the bottom with heavy threaded rod, and two metal feet. Then he screwed 2x4s to the u channel. You get the upright in position and then start turning the threaded rod until the upright has a real good friction seal with the ceiling and floor. But you have to be careful not to screw your rafters right off the walls! ---------- From: Marc Hanson[SMTP:paintbox(at)rconnect.com] Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 7:04 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: All jigged up over the jig Will be ordering tail kit this week! But, I'm all worked up over building the jig. May be making more of this than it's worth and am looking for advice from any veterans out there.(I'm building the 6A) Here are my ?????'s: 1-I am building in a basement with concrete floor, but sheet-rocked and painted ceiling.Holes cut into the ceiling seem minor,( compared to removing the sliding patio door to get the fuse out someday),but if there is a free-standing jig option...??? 2-I've been thinking about building a jig that would just be big enough for the emmpenage for space saving right now. If that is a reasonable thing to do, what would I need for the HORIZONTAL distance between the uprights? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Marc Hanson paintbox(at)rconnect.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: process of tooling up
Date: Jan 13, 1998
JIm: Avery is great. The c frame will be paid for out of the tail. His special tools , you got to have. Don Jordan~6A wings~Arlington,Tx donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Toad <toad(at)favorites.com>
Subject: Chat Room
A friend of mine has given me permission to set up a chat channel on his server for RV builders and flyers, If you are interested in this we could all meet on his server at a date and time. I just need some input as to when we want to try it, then I will post the info on how to get there using an IRC client software like mIRC or pIRCh. I am definently interested in this is anybody else? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Fuel Lube
I'd like to get a small quantity of fuel lube. Has anyone taken over the "fuel lube" business from Bob Skinner? (Fuel lube in a 35mm canister for $4) Paul Osterman RV6A Anderson,Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com>
Subject: Lycoming 0-360 A1A for sale
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Dale, I am interested in the Lycoming O-360 A1A you have for sale. If it is still available, I would appreciate some information about the engine. First, I am not familiar with the Dynafocal Lord mounts. Are they type D1 or D2? Second, was the engine stored? If so, how was it stored and how long? Third, how old is the engine? Fourth, does the engine include magnetos? Fifth, is the starter a lightweight starter? Sixth and last, I see that there was no engine damage but was the gyrocopter in a crash? I appreciate you taking time to answer these questions. I am very interested in hearing from you. You can reply to the address above or to beatonk(at)texas.net. Thanks in advance. Kevin Beaton -----Original Message----- From: Dale Kister [SMTP:dale(at)resource.net] Sent: Friday, January 09, 1998 12:15 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Lycoming 0-360 A1A for sale Lycoming 0-360 A1A for sale $16,400 OBO 3 Hours T.T. since new No prop strikes, sudden stoppage or damage. Have logs With following accessories: Alternator and regulator Fuel pump Exhaust stacks and muffler Carburetor Airtronics silicone ignition wires Dynafocal Lord mounts on a motor mount. Starter and flywheel Oil filter Oil cooler located in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho I have temporally given up on building an RV6 and therefore will sell my engine. I bought this engine from a friend who used it for 15 minute first flight in a Gyrocopter he was developing as commercial venture. Although it flew OK, needless to say the project was unsuccessful as a commercial venture and he sold me his engine. This was a brand new engine supplied by Lycoming for this project. I have all receipts. If interested, contact me for further information at: dale(at)resource.net or (208) 772-1467. Dale Kister Still Just dreaming of an RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: John Ciolino <jbc1(at)ziplink.net>
Subject: Re: masking tape!!!!!
> >Some advice and a question: > >DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a >extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it >leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. >Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? > > thanks, Walt. > >Walt, Believe it or not, WD-40 will take it off, even on plexi, without any harmful after effects. > > John Ciolino RV-8 jbc1(at)Ziplink.net Hartford, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: John Ciolino <jbc1(at)ziplink.net>
Subject: Re: All jigged up over the jig
> >Will be ordering tail kit this week! But, I'm all worked up over >building the jig. May be making more of this than it's worth and am >looking for advice from any veterans out there.(I'm building the 6A) > >Here are my ?????'s: >1-I am building in a basement with concrete floor, but sheet-rocked and >painted ceiling.Holes cut into the ceiling seem minor,( compared to >removing the sliding patio door to get the fuse out someday),but if >there is a free-standing jig option...??? > Before you cut holes -- nail a 2x4 to the ceiling joists and attach top of jig uprights to that. I used L-brackets, masonary bit and concrete screws ( from local hardware store) to attach bottom of uprights to concrete floor. >2-I've been thinking about building a jig that would just be big enough >for the emmpenage for space saving right now. If that is a reasonable >thing to do, what would I need for the HORIZONTAL distance between the >uprights? Van's plans call for 106-109" between uprights for the -8. Mine was 107"--just about right. > John Ciolino RV-8 jbc1(at)Ziplink.net Hartford, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)Juno.com
Subject: Tail Tie-down on 6A
Date: Jan 13, 1998
I find where the plans tell you the tail tie-down was made. I can't find the plan sheet that tells you how to install or where to install it. How have others done this. Or tell me where to look. Cecil Hatfield Thousand Oaks, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Do I need a Jig for The Rudder?
I am due to receive my QB kit soon, and would like to know if I need a jig to build the rudder. I know I have seen pictures of the HS in the jig, but not the rudder.....If I do, is there anyone who has some plans that they can suggest via fax, email, etc? thanks.. Paul Besing -6A QB (197AB reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Re: RV Accident Report
> Moe, a figure eight hole is an oblong hole except that it is made by drilling > two holes too close to each other resulting in an oblong hole with two > protruding sharp points somewhere in the middle that hasn't been hogged out > yet to a long oblong hole, Moe or Les! > What is a figure-eight hole? I probably should never have asked that, as > I can't make one if I don't know what it is. I've made plenty of > "oblong" holes. I guess I always thought I could have done a better job when I built mine, but the longer I read the RV list, the more I realize I must have done a great job. I didn't have to bend my control rods because they fit right, they also were not cut short, the elevator horn fit like the plans, the incidence of the tail or wing didn't need changed, and if I had a figure-eight hole, I don't remember it. Does anyone else feel the way I do? John Kitz N721JK Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Re: masking tape!!!!!
Rvator97 wrote: > DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a > extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it > leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. > Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? > Go to K-Mart and get " Goop" It will remove tape residue. John Kitz N721JK Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Sliding or Tip-up Canopy on 6A?
I've owned both and like the Avery best. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA (4-EAST) (505)272-2172 I am in the process of tooling up and setting up my shop to start work on a RV-6. I was looking through the Avery and Cleavland tool catalogues and was wondering if anyone out there had any ideas on which C-frame tool is the most versatile.. The price is about the same. Thanks in advance for any ideas/opinions on the way to go here. Jim Ruzicka ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 13, 1998
Subject: Lightspeed vs Electroair Electronic Ignition
Listers, Tracy Saylor, who has a VERY fast RV and who sells gear leg fairings, told me that I should buy a Lightspeed electronic ignition as the number one addition to my RV, even ahead of his gear leg fairings. That's a pretty strong recommendation. Tracy's reasons include fuel economy, power, and most importantly, lowered EGT readings. Ken (The Dummy) in his RVator article confirmed that his lightspeed EI lowered his EGT readings by over 100F. That pretty much sells me on the idea of an electronic ignition, given the concerns over premature exhaust valve wear in Lycomings (http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/Marvel/index.html). Now, should I go with Lightspeed (by Klaus Savier) or Electroaire (by Jeff Rose)? Jeff's system is certainly easier to install (no bolts to mount in the flywheel, no tapping the engine case). On the other hand, Van's catalog says the Lightspeed system outperformed "the previous system" on Jon Johanson's round the world RV-4. I understand the previous system was a Jeff Rose system. Other concerns about the Electroair system (according to Klaus) are that it was designed for cars and has been adapted to aircraft, so the timing advance may not be ideally suited for aircraft engines. In addition, Klaus claims that the Electroair system doesn't use an absolute pressure measurement transducer, so the system can't tell the absolute air pressure of air in the manifold, only the differential pressure between the manifold and ambient pressure. This would result in improper advance at altitude. Klaus says that Jon Johanson found evidence of pre-ignition (burned spark plugs) using the Electroair system, which went away with Klaus' system. This claim seems to be substantiated by Van's catalog, which says "Jon reports the system gave him noticeable improvements in the idle speed, fuel economy and plug life over the electronic ignition system he already had." So, if Klaus' claims are correct his system sounds like the better choice, even though it is $939 vs Jeff's $785. Any comments from knowledgeable listers? Thanks, Tim Lewis FINALLY working on my plane again... mounting the gear ------------------------------------ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 San Antonio TX timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or timrv6a(at)iname.com ------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: elevator pushrods
Larry, When fitting the instrument panel, did it end up 1/4" lower than a straight line projected from the firewall over the sub-panel? Is the fore and aft placement of the subpanel per plan? It would seem that something has to be off if you had to spread out the canopy forward frame that much. Mine required about 1/4" and part of that was due to the subpanel being located rearward a little. It too seemed to pull the tubing down and I worked part of that out by carefully taking some of the curve out on the sides which gave a little more width to the frame at that point. Once I riveted everything together, it turned out fine. If you can't work it out enough, then I think you already have the solution. I have seen others with grooves cut out in the panel for this. Best wishes. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA > > Larry, > > Can you describe what interferences you're having with your canopy frame? I > assume it is a tip-up. Have you contacted the factory for advice? > Les, I will try to describe it but I don't have the drawings with me so I am short on part numbers. The front aluminum weldment has two flat pieces oriented fore and aft that come back and connect to some aluminum rod. These flat pieces contact the top of the panel and prevent the front of the canopy frame from coming down enough. Originally I was trying to bend the weldment around the panel but this made the rear of that front weldment way too narrow. I had already spread the front part of the weldment 1/2 inch. At this time I contacted Tom at Van's. He gave me some dimensions to check like the width of the bulkhead the spar goes through. That dimension is correct. I haven't called again. I checked all the panel dimensions. They are correct. I really can not see anything to do except grind slots in the panel or widen the weldment by cutting the aluminum tube and splicing a piece in then wrapping the weldment around the panel. Slots in the panel seems the lesser of two evils. I've gotten real used to "hogging out metal" to make things fit. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6Q Canopy Frame ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: Chat Room
Count me in... Paul > >A friend of mine has given me permission to set up a chat channel on his >server for RV builders and flyers, If you are interested in this we >could all meet on his server at a date and time. I just need some input >as to when we want to try it, then I will post the info on how to get >there using an IRC client software like mIRC or pIRCh. >I am definently interested in this is anybody else? > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: RV Accident Report
Yes. How soon one forgets, until he starts anew! Actually, I don't recall having any of those problems before, but then my recall isn't what it was used to be either. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA I guess I always thought I could have done a better job when I built mine, but the longer I read the RV list, the more I realize I must have done a great job. I didn't have to bend my control rods because they fit right, they also were not cut short, the elevator horn fit like the plans, the incidence of the tail or wing didn't need changed, and if I had a figure-eight hole, I don't remember it. Does anyone else feel the way I do? John Kitz N721JK Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: Don't Turn Back was, First Flight Anticipation
Date: Jan 09, 1998
All, Thanks to the 75 or so of you that went to: http://www.petroblend.com/dougr/dnt-turn.htm and read Don't Turn Back. A special thanks to those of you who shared your stories about lost friends who tried it unsuccessfully. Fly Safe! Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal dougr(at)petroblend.com (my old netins.net is no longer valid) www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: RV-6 Mount FS
Date: Jan 09, 1998
A friend of mine is building a -6. He needs a Dyna-Focal type 2 so he has a Type I mount and factory drilled gear legs for sale. they are primed, nothing else. Located in Iowa. Some one could save at least $100. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: F621 Arm Rest Strengthening
Date: Jan 13, 1998
I heard from one builder that his 6A arm rest was deformed when a passenger used the arm rest to get out of the plane. I wonder if any others have found a need to strengthen the arm rest and if so, how. Thanks. Dennis Persyk 6A Instrument Panel Barrington, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Do I need a Jig for The Rudder?
Date: Jan 13, 1998
> From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> > I am due to receive my QB kit soon, and would like to know if I need a jig > to build the rudder. I know I have seen pictures of the HS in the jig, but > not the rudder..... Paul, Yes, you need a rudder jig. My kit contained all the wood pieces required to construct it and instructions on putting them together, so you don't need materials or plans for it. The HS is all built up out of the box, so you won't need any jigs for it. Rob (RV-6Q). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: "Robert D. Gibbons" <planenuts(at)theonramp.net>
Subject: Fuel Pump
I plan on running the IO-360 engine from Van's in my RV-8. Does anyone know what kind of fuel pressure the engine-driven pump delivers? I want to get an electric aux fuel pump with the same capacity. Bob Gibbons #80067 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Torque Seal
HELP!!! Does anyone have a source for "Torque seal"? I can't find it in source catalogs I have. I don't want to use "Nail Polish" It's not the same in thickness. Appreciate it. Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Kam Yuk CHENG <kamy(at)cyllene.uwa.edu.au>
Subject: remove uncompleted wings from the jig
Due to the building reconstruction, we may need to remove the two wings from the jig to avoid accidental damage by workmen. The main section of the wings have been completed. Ailerons and flaps are being built and to be joined onto the wing section. By removing the two wings now, would we risk the wings being mis-aligned when we add ailerons and flaps ? Regards Kamy Cheng University of Western Australia - RV6A project ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: MoeJoe <moejoe03(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Chat Room
Sounds like a plan to me Moe Colontonio RV-8 Toad wrote: > > > A friend of mine has given me permission to set up a chat channel on his > server for RV builders and flyers, If you are interested in this we > could all meet on his server at a date and time. I just need some input > as to when we want to try it, then I will post the info on how to get > there using an IRC client software like mIRC or pIRCh. > I am definently interested in this is anybody else? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Torque Seal
I got mine from Avery. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA HELP!!! Does anyone have a source for "Torque seal"? I can't find it in source catalogs I have. I don't want to use "Nail Polish" It's not the same in thickness. Appreciate it. Don ________________________________________________________________________________
From: W B Ward <WBWard(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: remove uncompleted wings from the jig
<< By removing the two wings now, would we risk the wings being mis-aligned when we add ailerons and flaps ? >> If all the skins are riveted on, there is little chance that the wings will change shape, if removed from the jigs. Regards Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 1998
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Internal corrosion protection
David Carter wrote: > > >Charlie Kuss wrote: David Carter wrote: > > > I use a DeVilbiss HVLP top load gun that cost $79 March 1997 from local PPG store - > > > brand new product line. . . > > > (also) used MD60 [actually, M30 - disregard MD60] "roll of (toilet) paper filter" to dry the > > > air - and put a silica gel drier down stream from that (connected with a 90 degree fitting > > > and short piece of pipe, both laying on ground by air compressor, > > > > David, > > Could you supply us with more info on these two products? > > HVLP paint gun: "FinishLine, by ITW DeVILBISS", made in England, model > FLG-631, comes with 1/2 liter gravity cup" (FLG-621 comes with 1 liter > suction cup). > - Cost me $174 [ not $79 that I mis-stated in last post] local PPG > autopaint store. Was a brand new item that just came in stock the week > I was shopping - I was about to buy a used hi press DeVilbiss from an > auto paint shop for $150!! > - Absolutely works with standard air supply systems - no special > "turbine" supply needed. > - Caution, to avoid damage to gun: When you are fiddling around > trying to figure out what combination of pipe thread fittings to use: > DO NOT REMOVE THE METAL FITTING that goes into bottom of the > plastic/composite handle of the gun - says so in instructions but it > seemed so natural to "examine it" [ignorantly]; it is sealed & rips out > the composite threads & peels some of metal threads off of the fitting. > I barely repaired mine with a dental pick to clean internal threads - > lady at customer svc that sent me the free replacement metal fitting > said "lots of people do that" (!!!) Don't be one of them. > - I'm painting such small batches of parts, and have such > monumental "buck fever" everytime I pull the trigger, that I'm a bit > slow to get the adjustments down just right - I'm still learning to > paint! However, based on yesterday (3rd use of gun) I use not more than > 10psi at heel of gun. There are two other knobs, 1 for "round" pattern > or "flat [just a vertical line of paint coming out" - I use "flat to > avoid getting too much paint on a surface; the other knob is > "wetness": It is 6 turns from full in (max dry) to full wet. I used 2 > turns out from full dry yesterday and it was way too wet. I'll start > with 1/2 turn next batch. I try to practice on paper on the wall before > I hit the parts but I'm not seeing all I should in those brief practice > sessions. Think I need to be more conservative with wetness and make > more passes over the part instead of "gooping" it up as I hit it from 45 > degrees left and right to get rib flanges, then straight on to get big > flat "webs" - its already been too wet by then. > - I always save the little bit of left over paint and use little > pieces of sponge rubber as "paint pops" to go over spots I missed - I > miss a corner or back side of a tab or flange every time. > > "Roll of paper filter/air dryer": "M-30 Filter" (inlet & outlet on > bottom of unit) or "M-60" (in-line inlet & outlet on opposite sides at > top of unit) - same price, from Motor Guard Corporation, Manteca, Calif, > 1-800-227-2822 (call for local retailer - they only sell to > warehouses/dealers). Bought mine from local sign & auto paint store for > $67.50 (mfr sug retail is $76). Best to use their paper roll filters, > suggested retail $24.75 for box of 4 ($6 ea). Lady says some users even > remove moist rolls and let them air dry & re-use them. My local guy > says can use Charmen (sp?) toilet paper in emergency. Company says > toilet paper used should be 1.5 inch inside diameter core, 4.5 inches > high, 500 sheets 2 ply. > - This is same concept as used for auto oil filters back in 1970s, > just a different application - to provide dry air. Really works in my > high humidity application on Gulf Coast. > > I just did a post on the "desiccant air dryer" a few minutes ago so > won't repeat it here. > > David Carter, RV-6 empennage > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hughes" <jhughes@net-quest.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Seal
Date: Jan 14, 1998
A source for "Torque seal" is Avery Tools 1-800-652-8379 the part # 125 cost is $2.50 a tube... John Hughes RV-6 S/N 23054, Fuselage coming out of jig!! ---------- > From: Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Torque Seal > Date: Wednesday, January 14, 1998 12:33 AM > > > HELP!!! > Does anyone have a source for "Torque seal"? I can't find it in source > catalogs I have. I don't want to use "Nail Polish" It's not the same in > thickness. > > Appreciate it. > Don > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Rob Hatwell <hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Black Airplanes
In message <7bee8dfa.34ba4031(at)aol.com>, RBusick505 writes > > >Black is a very difficult color to see in the air. >Bob Busick Bob The RAF (Royal Air Force) have done colour trials to make their trainers more visable to other pilots. Surprisingly they found fast moving black aircraft were easiest to see. That is why the Hawk trainers are being painted black. If speed has anything to do with it, maybe that is why Glasairs are painted white. -- Rob Hatwell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)BP.COM>
Subject: Alumiprep/Alodine ?
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Thank you to the people who helped me with question of "Internal corrosion protection" Now that I know what to do, can anyone tell me how much Alumiprep/Alodine it will take to complete the RV 8 airframe. Trevor Mills Brisbane Australia. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils <Rvmils(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: fuel lines for rv4
I'm doing inverted fuel in the left tank and standard in the right. I'm having a hell of a time running the lines from the tank ells to the fuel selector inside the fuse. I just can seem to get the bends I need. Does any one have any ideas on bending this stiff alum line through all these coners? Carey Mills fuel lines ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com>
Subject: Re: Black Airplanes
I flew a black RV4 for two years. Everyone told me that it was the easiest plane to see in the air that they had seen. It was hotter sitting on the ramp, but not in the air, the plane is only as hot as the air around it. There are lots of black cars out there that seem to survive. It does take more effort to keep clean, that would be my only complaint. It sure turned a lot of heads wherever I went! Tom Martin planeless :-( ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: All jigged up over the jig
Date: Jan 14, 1998
> Will be ordering tail kit this week! But, I'm all worked up over > building the jig. May be making more of this than it's worth and am > looking for advice from any veterans out there.(I'm building the 6A) > > Here are my ?????'s: > 1-I am building in a basement with concrete floor, but sheet-rocked > and > painted ceiling.Holes cut into the ceiling seem minor,( compared to > removing the sliding patio door to get the fuse out someday),but if > there is a free-standing jig option...??? > > 2-I've been thinking about building a jig that would just be big > enough > for the emmpenage for space saving right now. If that is a reasonable > thing to do, what would I need for the HORIZONTAL distance between the > > uprights? > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. > Marc Hanson > paintbox(at)rconnect.com > Try plaster to hold your jig to the ceiling. The stuff holds really well and can be chipped off when you are finished with no holes to patch up in your ceiling. That's what I did and it worked fine. Good luck Rich Zeidman RV6A waiting for wing kit > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com>
Subject: Re: 3/8 prop flange bushings
Date: Jan 14, 1998
---------- > From: Kbeene(at)aol.com > To: robert.cabe(at)usaa.com > Subject: Re: 3/8 prop flange bushings > Date: Monday, January 12, 1998 6:49 PM > > Hi Robert, > > Thanks for the information and please send me Judy's number Ken, For information on prop extensions and prop flange lugs, contact Judy Saber: Woofter - Saber 1951 N.W. 84th Terrace Pembroke, Florida 33024 Tel: (954) 436-9496 Also, I'm curious to know how you removed the lugs from your prop flange???? Good luck, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Orndorff G <OrndorffG(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Tail Tie-down on 6A
cecil, the tail tie down is put on with the vert. stab. how ever I have a better way .the tie down that comes withthe kit can be pulled into the rudder jaming the rudder.i make a tie down that attaches to the F611 and the ring is removable. for more info call me at 817-439-3280....george orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: fuel lines for rv4
<< I'm doing inverted fuel in the left tank and standard in the right. I'm having a hell of a time running the lines from the tank ells to the fuel selector inside the fuse. I just can seem to get the bends I need. Does any one have any ideas on bending this stiff alum line through all these coners? Carey Mills fuel lines >> Carey: We use 3/8" inline filters, installed just in front and below the #2 bulkhead. This short amout of flexible line seems to allow for much easier install of these fuel lines. Even if you don't use this style of filter, a short pc of hose in the middle of a series of bends will allow more freedom in installing this particular line. Sounds like you're getting close!! Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Orndorff G <OrndorffG(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Lightspeed vs Electroair Electronic Ignition
Tim, I have the Electroair system and are very pleased with it . The system installs easy and runs well. Burt Rutan also must like it he puts it on most of his planes. Before I would diside I would call Jeff Rose at 423-622-8825 and get more info from him....George Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
<< I plan on running the IO-360 engine from Van's in my RV-8. Does anyone know what kind of fuel pressure the engine-driven pump delivers? I want to get an electric aux fuel pump with the same capacity. Bob Gibbons #80067 >> 25PSI, or so. I'd recommend the boost pump from Airflow Performance- less likely to go south if run dry for a few seconds than the Dukes. Tell Colleen I sent ya. Don't forget- Matt Dralle has a very good fuel computer for these applications! Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Lube
From: whays(at)Juno.com (Wes Hays)
Date: Jan 14, 1998
On Wed, 14 Jan 98 00:48:15 UT "Paul Osterman III" writes: >I'd like to get a small quantity of fuel lube. Has anyone taken over >the >"fuel lube" business from Bob Skinner? (Fuel lube in a 35mm canister >for $4) Paul, I havn't "taken over" from Bob, but I do have a can and have furnished some to other builders since Bob's move. If you would like to have some, please e-mail me off list. Wes Hays whays(at)camalott.com he F611 I think. It is much stronger than the tiedown provided and has the added feature of being removable. In addition, you do not have to install the tiedown ring along with the vertical stab. You can contact George at OrndorffG(at)aol.com Wes Hays whays(at)camalott.com RV6-A, Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "Patrick E. Kelley" <webmstr(at)kalitta.com>
Subject: Re: remove uncompleted wings from the jig
Kam Yuk CHENG wrote: > > Due to the building reconstruction, we may need to remove the two wings > from the jig to avoid accidental damage by workmen. > > The main section of the wings have been completed. Ailerons and flaps are > being built and to be joined onto the wing section. > > By removing the two wings now, would we risk the wings being mis-aligned > when we add ailerons and flaps ? If the wing skins are riveted on, there will be no more danger of movement than when you actually remove the wings to attach them to the fuselage. If the skins are not riveted, I would suggest removing them and the fuel tank to make the assembly easier to move. Then, when you replace it in the jig (or even move it to a new jig), you simply measure the alignment to within an inch of it's life (or .001" if you prefer) until you are happy with it again. Remember, a jig is for holding alignment, but you have to align the parts and clamp them in the first place. If you did it once, you can do it again. PatK - RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Torque Seal
A parts/repair facility on my airport carrries it, if you really get desparate, let me know and I'll send you a couple of tubes. (about $2.50 per). Walt. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: fuel pump vent line
Question for 6A builders: Where did you route the engine driven fuel pump vent line? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Marc Hanson <paintbox(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: RV-list: Jigging Solutions
To all who replied or will: I can't believe how fast you all responded to my questions about jigging up for my RV. Would you all "like to be my neighbors?!" With the response I recieved, I could very easily put together a manual on this subject. Many,many different and innovative ideas.I should have no trouble finding a satisfactory solution. Thanks again..... Marc R. Hanson paintbox(at)rconnect.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BrownTool <BrownTool(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Torque Seal
<< Does anyone have a source for "Torque seal"? >> We have Torque Seal available in the 1/2 oz poly squeeze tube. Available in blue or high visibility orange. Visit our website at: http://www.browntool.com Best Regards, Michael Brown Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. Bethany, OK 73008 1-800-587-3883 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170 <Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Chat Room
Count me in !! Regards, Merle ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com>
Subject: Re: RV Accident Report
I am with you, John. In fact reading about all the problems folks seem to have makes me feel like either I had a good set of parts or else I obliviously missed these problems - hope its the first case. John Kitz wrote: > e the > plans, the incidence of the tail or wing didn't need changed, and if I > had a figure-eight hole, I don't remember it. Does anyone else feel the > way I do? > John Kitz > N721JK > Ohio > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Chat Room
From: bob.char.reeves(at)Juno.com (Robert L Reeves)
Count me in! I've looked for a place to chat for some time, only one I've found is on AOL called "Pilots Lounge" , but its all airline pilots and the chicks that would like to hook them.... Hope this works out.... Bob Reeves Building Bearhawk, Flying RV-4 Hidden River Airport, Sarasota, Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Black Airplanes
<< If speed has anything to do with it, maybe that is why Glasairs are painted white. >> Most compost planes are painted white not for visibility, but for ramp heat reduction that can degrade the structure over time. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: fuel lines for rv4
<< I'm doing inverted fuel in the left tank and standard in the right. I'm having a hell of a time running the lines from the tank ells to the fuel selector inside the fuse. I just can seem to get the bends I need. Does any one have any ideas on bending this stiff alum line through all these corners? >> Try making a mock up using welding rod or something else that is simple to bend and cheap. Then reverse engineer it for the tubing thru measurement of distances and angles using a tape and angle finder. The balance can be muscled into place. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Qmax LLC <QmaxLLC(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: masking tape and WD-40 - NO!
<< >DO NOT use any masking tape anywhere on your project and leave it for a >extended period of time! I am going nuts trying to remove the residue it >leaves on a couple of areas of my plane: including the plexiglass canopy. >Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? > > thanks, Walt. > >Walt, Believe it or not, WD-40 will take it off, even on plexi, without any harmful after effects. >> WRONG!!!!!!!! Don't do it! I've not tried it on the RV canopy because the manufacturer of my plastic camera housing for underwater photography specifically and adamantly says to not lube any of the controls w/ WD-40 as it will cause crazing to show up a few weeks after use. Okay, maybe we're talking about two different plastics. I'm not willing to take the bet. nice to know that it works on aluminum, though. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Chat Room
Toad wrote: > > > A friend of mine has given me permission to set up a chat channel on his > server for RV builders and flyers, If you are interested in this we > could all meet on his server at a date and time. I just need some input > as to when we want to try it, then I will post the info on how to get > there using an IRC client software like mIRC or pIRCh. > I am definently interested in this is anybody else? > Make it happen......... Craig Hiers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
Subject: Re:Mattituck
Paul M. Bilodeau Yes I still have the break in info. My mail will not send to your address for some reason. Send snail mail address or something and I'll get it to you. Apologies for using the list this way. John Darby Stephenville TX johnd@our-town.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: fuel lines for rv4
Rvmils wrote: > > > I'm doing inverted fuel in the left tank and standard in the right. I'm > having a hell of a time running the lines from the tank ells to the fuel > selector inside the fuse. I just can seem to get the bends I need. Does any > one have any ideas on bending this stiff alum line through all these coners? > > Carey Mills > fuel lines > Carey I've been there so....... Ditch the ALU fuel lines and go with the aeroquip flexable fuel line. ( Vans sells it ) It's not cheap but it makes it a lot easier. Craig Hiers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com>
Subject: Re: fuel lines for rv4
Carey, I had the same problem and after ordering a second section of tubing and that not turning out, I segmented the tubing using AN- fittings and nuts. I used AN-6 Bulkhead 90 deg elbow fittings and put it at the bottom of the fuel selector fixture with a nut where the tubing is suppose to go thru. One end of the fitting now pointed to the fuel selector valve and the other thru the bottom of the flange toward the side of the aircraft. I then was able to get adequate bends from the fitting coming thru the side of the airframe from the wing to the bottom of the fuel selector flanges and screwed them together. You generally want as few fittings in a fuel line as you can get, but this approach worked well for me. Ed RV-6A awaiting inspection Rvmils wrote: > > I just can seem to get the bends I need. Does any > one have any ideas on bending this stiff alum line through all these coners? > > Carey Mills > fuel lines > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: emcole(at)ix.netcom.com (Edward Cole)
Subject: Re: Fuel Lube
You wrote: > > >I'd like to get a small quantity of fuel lube. Has anyone taken over the >"fuel lube" business from Bob Skinner? (Fuel lube in a 35mm canister for $4) > >Paul Osterman >RV6A >Anderson,Ca > Paul, Send me your snail mail address, I can help you out. I've got a new can that will last me forever. Ed Cole emcole(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Hawaii RV's
I will be flying to Kona on Friday and staying for a week. I'll have lots of spare time and would be interested in seeing any projects or completed RV's in the area. Please contact me off list. Scott A. Jordan SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com -8 #331 waiting (impatiantly) for wings and warmer weather in NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: Alumiprep/Alodine ?
Date: Jan 14, 1998
> Thank you to the people who helped me with question of "Internal corrosion > protection" > Now that I know what to do, can anyone tell me how much Alumiprep/Alodine > it > will take to complete the RV 8 airframe. > > > This really depends on how you use it. I did the tail kit by spraying on the alumaprep & alodyne. That wasted a lot, gave me only ok coverage and made my hand tired (using a pump sprayer). For subsequent parts I bought two large plastic storage tubs at the store and I dip the parts. Dipping gives much better coverage, uses very little fluid and is easier on the local environment (read: your lungs). So far I've used a gallon of each. Someone told me once that a place in Oregon (McDermot?) sells powdered alodyne. That way is much cheaper to buy - you're not paying shipping charges on a bunch of water. He used a kiddie pool full to dip the large skins on a BD that he was rebuilding. Just a thought. -Mike RV8 - stalled on left aileron rigging. P.S. Is there a way to rig the ailerons without building wing templates?? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: Tail Tie-down on 6A
Wes, While at OSH a few years ago, I saw a pretty neat rear tie down on a 6A that I think I'd like to use on my 6A (unless I decide to build another 6). It was a flat plate of around 1/4" plate that was kind of a streamlined, tear drop shape that was sandwiched in between two pieces of angle that were attached to the tail cone. I can't remember if the angles spanned between F611 and F610, or not, but this seems like it would be stronger than just attaching to the rear, tail skin. This tear drop shapped center piece had a hole in it used for the tie down rope. If the center piece is attached to the two angles with screws, it would be easily replacable if damaged. This set up would be a better "skid" than an eye bolt sticking down, IMO, and therefore give better protection to the tail of the airplane. I've seen several rear tie downs that were bent on 6-A's (from over rotation) and I would think that repairs or replacement would be difficult when installed per plans or with this new method that you brought up. Bob Skinner RV-6 390 hr. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >I was talking to George Orndorff the other day and he told me about a new >mounting block for the tail tiedown similar to the wing tie downs. It is >a preformed aluminum block that bolts to the bottom of the F611 I think. >It is much stronger than the tiedown provided and has the added feature >of being removable. In addition, you do not have to install the tiedown >ring along with the vertical stab. >Wes Hays m to the list. Bob Skinner RV-6 390 hr. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >Now, should I go with Lightspeed (by Klaus Savier) or Electroaire (by >Jeff Rose)? Jeff's system is certainly easier to install (no bolts >to mount in the flywheel, no tapping the engine case). On the other >hand, Van's catalog says the Lightspeed system outperformed "the >previous system" on Jon Johanson's round the world RV-4. I >understand the previous system was a Jeff Rose system. > >Other concerns about the Electroair system (according to Klaus) are >that it was designed for cars and has been adapted to aircraft, so >the timing advance may not be ideally suited for aircraft engines. >In addition, Klaus claims that the Electroair system doesn't use an >absolute pressure measurement transducer, so the system can't tell >the absolute air pressure of air in the manifold, only the >differential pressure between the manifold and ambient pressure. >This would result in improper advance at altitude. Klaus says that >Jon Johanson found evidence of pre-ignition (burned spark plugs) >using the Electroair system, which went away with Klaus' system. >This claim seems to be substantiated by Van's catalog, which says >"Jon reports the system gave him noticeable improvements in the idle >speed, fuel economy and plug life over the electronic ignition system >he already had." So, if Klaus' claims are correct his system sounds >like the better choice, even though it is $939 vs Jeff's $785. >Tim Lewis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Subject: Re: fuel lines for rv4
> > I'm doing inverted fuel in the left tank and standard in the right. I'm > having a hell of a time running the lines from the tank ells to the fuel > selector inside the fuse. I just can seem to get the bends I need. Does any > one have any ideas on bending this stiff alum line through all these corners? > I used vinyl coated clothesline wire to make patterns for all my tubing runs. Install the wire where you want the tube to run, pull it out, then use it as a pattern for the bends in the tubing. The tubing can then be installed on the airplane and "tweeked" as required for a good fit. In my RV-6, I ran a one-piece line from my flop tube connection to the fuel valve. This included a fairly tight S-curve where the line penetrated the side of the fuselage. The wire is also very useful for determining the lengths and routing for engine hoses. MN RV-6; flying. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Black Airplanes
hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk wrote: > The RAF (Royal Air Force) have done colour trials to make their trainers > more visable to other pilots. Surprisingly they found fast moving black > aircraft were easiest to see. That is why the Hawk trainers are being > painted black. If speed has anything to do with it, maybe that is why > Glasairs are painted white. I believe I posted on this the last time we discussed this topic on the RV-list. Or maybe it was on rec.aviation.homebuilt. Anyway, here it is again, as best my failing memory can recall... Likewise the RNZAF did some trials for their trainers. The guy who was in charge of this is a local homebuilder (rebuilding the tail of a damaged RV-3 ZK-WHO), and he gave us a run-down... Technique was first to paint several boards in different colours and set them up at the airbase, and see which were visible at various distances. They then chose the best of these and painted one aircraft in each colour (red, yellow, blue, green, black, ...), and flew it straight and level. A second aircraft was radar-vectored onto it, and distance apart noted when the occupant saw the coloured plane. This was done at various relative altitudes, and against various backdrops (sea, pine forest, farmland, etc). The visibility of an aircraft depends on its colour *and* the background (not surprising really). Dark coloured aircraft are very visible against a sky or cloud background. However, they're practically invisible against pine forest backgrounds. Yellow is very good visibility-wise. Surprisingly, red doesn't show up well against a green background. The upshot is that the RNZAF trainers are now painted yellow, with black control surfaces. My opinion is that a plane should be painted a dark colour underneath to give good against-the-sky visibility, and light colour on top to give good against-the-ground visibility (and to reduce heat buildup). Incidentally... Some years ago, the NZ Dept of Conservation required all buildings in National Parks to be painted dark brown colours "to reduce their visual intrusion". This works fairly well up close. However, the sun reflecting off those flat, rectangular surfaces and windows makes them extremely visible from many miles away. Getting back to the topic... Many times, the first glimpse I've had of another aircraft has been when the sun reflects off it. So maybe including some polished aluminium in the 'paint' scheme might be a good idea. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TBRV <TBRV(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Pushy Galore
It is my understanding that Pushy Galore will retire pretty soon for the most part and is being replaced(not in Formula One of course) by a RV with some Rocket mods. It sounds interesting. Incidently, I was fortunate enough to get a ride in Bruce's Mattituck sponsored RV-4 with Don Davila. Lots of fun. I'm not sure about "heat buildup", etc., but the black color sure didn't slow it down. On the same day, I saw another black RV-4 on the field and got to drool on Check Six! Mark's rocket. Some days are good like that, I guess. Troy Black P.S. Don't count Pushy Galore out, yet. It just might try to reclaim that altitude record from the Long Eze. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Teardrop Tail Tie-down on 6A
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Bob, This sounds really nice. Was the angle a x ? If it was riveted to the outside of the skin, it probably made sense to run it from the F-611 to the F-612 so it tied into more of the structure. I like the idea of a skid on the tail. I fly out of a rough field and all of the tri-gear planes that are there very long get a tail skid to protect the eyebolt and tail skin. They are usually damaged in over-rotation while flaring to land. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont -----Original Message----- While at OSH a few years ago, I saw a pretty neat rear tie down on a 6A that I think I'd like to use on my 6A (unless I decide to build another 6). It was a flat plate of around 1/4" plate that was kind of a streamlined, ....>>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: STANAIR <STANAIR(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Chat Room
count me in ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Analog or Digital?
Date: Jan 14, 1998
For those of you have used both analog and digital (numeric type, not digital representations of analog) RPM & M.P. gauges, which do you prefer and why? I am considering the JP Slimline digital's, as they would fit nicely into my intended panel layout (the small size frees up round hole space, leaving room for future instrument expansion). For flight instruments, I prefer analog as I believe they are better at displaying trend information. RPM remains steady most of the time, but I'm unsure of how easy it is to reach a target RPM without the trend information. Let's say, for example, I want to go from cruise to descent power. With analog, I can readily determine the rate at which I am decreasing power using the engine sound and RPM needle's rate of change. This makes it easy to hit a new target RPM. A numeric display can't display this rate of change, is the engine sound enough? Am I making too much of this, is this just another thing you get comfortable with easily? All comments welcomed. Rob. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Seal
Don Champagne wrote: > > > HELP!!! > Does anyone have a source for "Torque seal"? I can't find it in source > catalogs I have. I don't want to use "Nail Polish" It's not the same in > thickness. > > Appreciate it. > Don Torque Seal is available from Avery. Jack Abell Los Angeles RV-6A N333JA (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: C&F Hiatt <hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel Lube
Paul Osterman III wrote: > > I'd like to get a small quantity of fuel lube. Has anyone taken over the > "fuel lube" business from Bob Skinner? (Fuel lube in a 35mm canister for $4) > > Paul Osterman > RV6A > Anderson,Ca > Paul, and others in need: I have a can of fuel lube that I will distribute. Maybe Bob Skinner would tell me how much lube he put in each film can. How bout it Bob? Fred Hiatt, RV-6A hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: Chris McGough <cmcgough(at)eck.net.au>
Subject: Re: Dribble
Anderson Ed wrote: > > > I am with you, John. In fact reading about all the problems folks seem to have > makes me feel like either I had a good set of parts or else I obliviously missed > these problems - hope its the first case. > > John Kitz wrote: > > > e the > > plans, the incidence of the tail or wing didn't need changed, and if I > > had a figure-eight hole, I don't remember it. Does anyone else feel the > > way I do? > > John Kitz > > N721JK > > Ohio > > > I bet you blokes have made people having a bit of trouble feel real good.I thought blowing own trumpet would be better on chat room not on a list where we should be helping each other!!! Can we please talk about building? Chris RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com>
Subject: Archives??
Date: Jan 14, 1998
The address we've been using to access the RV-List Archives is no longer available to us. Could someone provide a good address for the Archives? Thanks, Bob --- "The opinions expressed herein are solely the author's and are not necessarily the opinions of USAA." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Chat Room
Great idea! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Analog or Digital?
Robert: I have been doing Design, Development, Integration and Test for the past 19 years. Early on, all I used was analog meters for performance testing. In 1983 when I used my first digital meter, I did not like it at first. After about a month, I liked it more than the analog. I have the RMI microMonitor installed in my FLYING RV-6. I like the digital display better than the analog. This is my personal preference. Digital does have its draw backs. It gives what I call a HARD number. NO interpolation necessary. Digital displays may toggle between 2 numbers when a reading is between both of them. One must learn to take a reading and ignore the toggle. Some people may not be able to get use to the digital. When I start a descent, I pull the throttle back for a 1" decrease in MP. If I only get .9 or 1.1 that is close enough. The RMI reads RPM in 10 RPM increments. It displays 4 digits but the ones place is always 0. i e: 2,700-2,690-2,280.... I have found that this is not a problem. When changing RPM with the propeller control (blue knob), I rotate it to the nearest 20-30 RPM and leave it. 20-30 RPM off of a desired RPM is closer than you will get with an analog tach. Most analog tachs have more error than the digital. The RMI also allows me to calibrate most transducers so that what you see is an actual reading. No lines on the gauges to show where 211 F oil temp is. As for CAT fluctuations on transmit with the RMI, I tried 123.0 and 126.4 this weekend. I found NO change in reading during transmit both on the ground and in the air. I have a KX-125 and the FAA approved B-5 probe from Aircraft Spruce. Just like sliding canopies and tilt up on the -6(A), both have pros and cons. Only the individual can determine what is best for him. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell writes: > >For those of you have used both analog and digital (numeric type, not digital representations of analog) RPM & M.P. gauges, which do you prefer and why? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Toad <toad(at)favorites.com>
Subject: Chat stuff
Ok! what a great response! seems there is interest for a chat room! so here is the stuff: Point your irc software (mIRC or pIRCh) to server: rco.iglobal.net port: 6667 join #rvchat If you do not have the irc programs, go to: http://www.rconline.com then find your way to the chat area for the models, rvchat will be there. I will try to be in the chat at 8:00pm mst each night If you go there and the room is not setup, using pirch or mirc, type: /join #rvchat that will make the room. it is suggested that you use pirch or mirc chat software as it is much faster. you can find those software programs by searching in yahoo for them, Pirch is free, so is the personal version of mIRC I be waiting for ya! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eric.Henson(at)cendantmobility.com
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Aluminum ding filler
The other day someone asked if there was a "ding filler" formulated just for aluminum. My paint shop recommended Z-grip, by Evercoat. It's much denser than microballoons so more ding resistant. The can says it is for aluminum because it's formulated with, well, it's formulated with some whiz-bang stuff but it sounds good enough for a simple country boy like myself. Available at you local paint store. Eric Henson Dana Point, CA Top Skins ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Keep Replies Relevant!
RV-List Tip of the Day wrote: > > > **** Automated RV-List Usage Tip of the Day **** > > --> DO NOT use the list to respond to a post unless you have something > > relevant to add, that will be of broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I > agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better > sent > to the original poster directly, rather than to the list at large. > > Matt , I've received this message several times over the past week. I don't believe it applies to me. Any comments? Ed Cole ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuel sender ring cutout
Date: Jan 14, 1998
g'day all, How large should the hole be made for the tank sender/access plate reinforcement ring in the tank root rib? Should only the inside of the stiffener depression be removed or the entire inside piece AND the stiffener ring..thus making the hole the same diameter as the reinforcement ring inside diameter? I can't find the hole diameter specified in the manual or the plans. And, I've found the little tiny tooling hole in the rib will NOT serve as the center for the fly cutter bit! It's off by just a wee bit. Now, to remember basic geometry to find the center of a circle...draw tangential lines, bisect the angle, do it again...or sumthin.... Brian Denk -8 wing stuff ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel pump vent line
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 14, 1998
> >Question for 6A builders: Where did you route the engine driven fuel >pump >vent line? > > > > The reason for a line off of the fuel pump is in case a diaphragm fails, this port is where fuel will be dumped out. So you want to route the line down near the cowl air exit so that you know for sure that any fuel will exit the engine compartment for obvious reasons.. Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. s tight of bends as you can without kinking the tube. As already mentioned it's best to have as few line connections as possible but go ahead and use a couple more 90 deg. bulkhead fittings (AN822-6D I think) to help make a tight corner. Just my opinion... I am not a fan of using regular fuel hoses for the lines It is the easy way out but much more expensive, much heavier, and a life limited item. Alum lines properly made, clamped, and supported in the proper places should last the life of the airplane. Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: fuel pump vent line
<< Where did you route the engine driven fuel pump vent line? >> My plan is to use 1/4" dia flex hose to attach it to a fitting on the lower cowling near the bottom left corner of the firewall. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: An oopsie to not make
Joe Larson wrote: > > I just thought I would warn people who are about to start drilling > their > wing skins to not skip a step that I glossed over. > -Joe > Would this be RV4...6.....8 ????? Derek Reed OR RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Navaid Servo Installation
From: m.talley(at)Juno.com (Michael L Talley)
Recently there was information on the installation of the Navaid aileron servo in the wing of the RV-6. I am about to close up the second (right) wing and would like to put provisions in for the servo in case I decide to install the system later. I have the footprint drawing and a picture of the servo from Navaid but I'm curious as to how to attach the servo pushrod to the aileron linkage so I can see where to install the unit. If anyone has info or a sketch I'd appreciate getting the info. If you prefer, you can respond directly to m.talley(at)juno.com or if you have a graphics file send to miket(at)aol.com. Thanks. Mike Talley RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: battery problem
If this is a gel cell, you'll have to up the charging voltage to about 15.5 volts I believe and even then it may not take a charge. It could have become sulfated. You don't say where you live, but if it has been frozen, which it will easily do in a discharged condition, it is history. Not an expert, but I do have some experience with this. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA I made the mistake of letting my new battery sit unused in the plane for 4-5 months; now it is only putting out 11 volts or so. I have tried re-charging it at 14.5 volts with a regulated charger but can't seem to get it back to proper voltage. Is this battery history? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Tail Tie-down on 6A
The tie down bracket that was supplied on both my -6A kits was stainless steel. And it is actually pretty malleable. I know, because I bent mine by going over a hump a little too fast when parking at a fly-in. It bent back but didn't hit the rudder. It was rather easily straightened, partially by hand. In retrospect, I'm not too sure that having a solid skid would have been good. It might have damaged the tail cone structure, which would have been much more difficult to repair. Something to think about. Of course, if we were to use a little more caution taxiing plus learn not to over rotate, we probably wouldn't have to think about this at all. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA Hi all, The tail tie down on the 6A is really odd. As a tie down it is "hell for stout" and makes me wonder if the whole tail wouldn't pull off the aircraft before the hook gave out. It is made of mild steel and for it's weight may not actually be as sturdy as it looks. It looks much stronger than the one on my Debonair which is much larger and heavier than a 6A. As a tail skid it looks as tho the eye hook would be rather ineffective and as one lister said would bend when used. Should give lotsa drag, tho. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating canopy halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: fuel lines for rv4
I found that using a union fitting (AN815) in the line from the flop tube to the selector valve sure solved a lot of fitting problems for me. Didn't cost that much in time or money. It is another couple of possible leak points. However, this will also make it much easier to unassemble, if ever necessary. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA I'm doing inverted fuel in the left tank and standard in the right. I'm having a hell of a time running the lines from the tank ells to the fuel selector inside the fuse. I just can seem to get the bends I need. Does any one have any ideas on bending this stiff alum line through all these coners? Carey Mills fuel lines ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Seal
John Hughes wrote: > > > A source for "Torque seal" is Avery Tools 1-800-652-8379 the part # 125 > cost is $2.50 a tube... > John Hughes RV-6 S/N 23054, Fuselage Thanks for the info John. Don Rv-6 S/N 60034 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1998
From: Howard Williamson <skybolt(at)mail.erols.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pump vent line
SCOTT R MCDANIELS wrote: > > > > > >Question for 6A builders: Where did you route the engine driven fuel > >pump > >vent line? > > > > > > > > > The reason for a line off of the fuel pump is in case a diaphragm fails, > this port is where fuel will be dumped out. So you want to route the > line down near the cowl air exit so that you know for sure that any fuel > will exit the engine compartment for obvious reasons.. > > Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. > These opinions and ideas are my own > and do not necessarily reflect the opinions > of my employer. > A good practice is to ensure the fuel pump vent line does not exit near the engine exhaust for obvious reasons. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 1997
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Keep Replies Relevant!
Edward Cole wrote: > > > RV-List Tip of the Day wrote: > > > > > > > **** Automated RV-List Usage Tip of the Day **** > > > > --> DO NOT use the list to respond to a post unless you have something > > > > relevant to add, that will be of broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I > > agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better > > sent > > to the original poster directly, rather than to the list at large. > > > > > > Matt , > I've received this message several times over the past week. I don't > believe it applies to me. Any comments? > Ed Cole > Ed I think it is going out randomly to the list, I've got them also and I am sure Matt would not be sending to me personally:-) Jerry -- Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: fuel pump vent line
Could you give more detail on how you installed the fuel pump vent line in your 6A? What kind of hose/fittings etc. Is it safe to route it so close to the exhaust pipes? Thanks for your help. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Jan 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Analog or Digital?
>For those of you have used both analog and digital RPM & M.P. gauges, which do >you preferand why? >With analog, I can readily determine the rate at which I am decreasing >power using the engine sound and RPM needle's rate of change. This makes >it easy to hit a new target RPM. A numeric display can't display this rate >of change, is the engine sound enough? I have analog for all but EGT/CHT and also backup RMI airspeed etc. I prefer analog as you get used to where a needle is pointing, making it a quick reference. With digital it takes a second computation to determine if what you are seeing is what you want to see. Analog, the needle is pointing to its usual area of the gauge. It amazes me how the RV tells you what is happening by the sound of the engine. I usually am aware of a climb or dive, as small as they sometimes are at cruise, before I can see any change in the altimeter or tach, just from the sound of the engine. I guess it may be because of the high speed vs rpm ratio; this allows small changes to make an audible difference in the sound of the engine. I wouldn't worry too much about what the "target RPM" will be as a lot of it is done by feel/sound. Just get the gauge you will be happy looking at for 2 or 3 thousand hours. Just my $.02. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: RV photo album
There is nothing like a ride in an RV to keep the building enthusiasm going. However, for many of us, a neat photo of a completed RV will have to suffice. I am starting an RV photo album on my RV6 web site. Please e-mail a photo of your completed plane (any RV model) for inclusion in the web album. If you can't e-mail the photo, you may send a reprint that you will not want returned to the snail-mail address on my site. You will have an e-mail link next to your photo so folks can get in touch with you for additional info about your plane. DO NOT SEND PHOTOS TO THIS LIST! DO NOT SEND PHOTOS TO THIS LIST! Hopefully the RV Photo album will become an archive that all of us can enjoy. I don't know what kind of response to expect, but hopefully we will get enough to give a prospective and/or current builder a good representative sampling of the RV line. Wow, if half of the 1800 flying RVs end up in the album......(gulp)...... Thanks in advance for your participation. Gord MacMurchy has the album off to a great start with his gorgeous -6A. You can check out his handiwork at: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/album.html Send your photos to: sbuc(at)traveller.com Thanks, Sam Buchanan http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: Analog or Digital?
Rob, I think anolog or digital is a personal preference. I personally prefer anolog. This way I still have most of my instrumentation if I have an Electrical failure. Also if I am on a long trip and one instrument fails I have only lost that instrument. It may be something I can get by without and continue on, repairing when I get home. If you loose everything in one shot you can probably get on the ground ok, but once the airplane's on the ramp you are grounded until you can fix the problem. Ryan Bendure ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: Tail Tie-down on 6A
From: wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Listers, I've bent my tail tie down ring for the last time! To keep it from happening again, I've bent a belly mounted antenna such that it contacts the runway prior to the tail tie down ring. Works like a curb finder on a car, but in this case I'll call it a Runway Finder..... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV (Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!) wstucklen1(at)juno.com On Thu, 15 Jan 98 03:42:07 UT "les williams" writes: > > >The tie down bracket that was supplied on both my -6A kits was >stainless >steel. And it is actually pretty malleable. I know, because I bent >mine by >going over a hump a little too fast when parking at a fly-in. It bent >back >but didn't hit the rudder. It was rather easily straightened, >partially by >hand. > >In retrospect, I'm not too sure that having a solid skid would have >been good. > >It might have damaged the tail cone structure, which would have been >much more >difficult to repair. Something to think about. Of course, if we were >to use >a little more caution taxiing plus learn not to over rotate, we >probably >wouldn't have to think about this at all. > >Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA > > >Hi all, > >The tail tie down on the 6A is really odd. As a tie down it is "hell >for >stout" >and makes me wonder if the whole tail wouldn't pull off the aircraft >before >the >hook gave out. It is made of mild steel and for it's weight may not >actually >be >as sturdy as it looks. It looks much stronger than the one on my >Debonair >which >is much larger and heavier than a 6A. > >As a tail skid it looks as tho the eye hook would be rather >ineffective and as >one >lister said would bend when used. > >Should give lotsa drag, tho. > >Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating >canopy >halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: elevator pushrods
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> >> >Larry, > >When fitting the instrument panel, did it end up 1/4" lower than a straight >line projected from the firewall over the sub-panel? Is the fore and aft >placement of the subpanel per plan? It would seem that something has to be >off if you had to spread out the canopy forward frame that much. Mine >required about 1/4" and part of that was due to the subpanel being located >rearward a little. It too seemed to pull the tubing down and I worked >part of >that out by carefully taking some of the curve out on the sides which gave a >little more width to the frame at that point. Les, Luckily I haven't been able to work on this since I am waiting for parts from Van's; one I broke and one that was missing. I checked on it last night. The panel is about 1/4" below the projected line and the sub-panel is in the correct position. I don't know a way to check to see if the fuselage is too wide at the front of the canopy frame weldment. I fiddled around with bending the weldment (carefully, as this is how I broke the part I'm waiting on). I was able to get it to fit on one side and may be able to get it to fit on the other. It is a little complex for me to grasp. When I widened the front by 1/2" that put some twist in then when I moved the hinge points back toward the center that put another kind of twist in. It looks like the key is reducing the radius of the curve in the aluminum tube at the back of the weldment. I appreciate your help. I think you made me pause long enough to find a way to make this work without grinding out the instrument panel. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM Pacer N8025D RV-6QME N441LP Reserved Tip-Up Canopy Frame ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: Re: RV photos
Jerry, Just send what you have in jpg format and I will adjust the size and resolution for the page. Also, feel free to include a few lines about equipment, engine, etc. Thanks, and spread the word! Sam Jerry Springer wrote: > > Great idea any particular size or format you would prefer? > Jerry > -- > Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR > jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: Archives??
>-------------- >>Matt, > >Thanks for the prompt response. We've been using >http://dunkin.princeton.edu/drvlist > >The message we now get is "The RV Mailing List search services are no >longer available here on dunkin.Princeton.edu". > >Thanks for the help, >Bob >-------------- Hi Bob, That was somewhat of a mirror site, and not supported by Matronics. Try out "http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/archive.html" and "http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/search.html". Matt -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef <Cafgef(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: cracked nuts
I was installing the wheels on my -6A yesterday and again today when I realized that locking nuts are supposed to go on with some resistance. Specifically the socket head screw and castle nut that retains the U403 flange on the axle. Reference the AN363-420 castle nut. They cracked while turning them onto the screw. Now, I figured that the brakes might not work if that screw fell out. Vans is sending me some new ones but I thought that some of you might want to check your castle nuts. There is a chance that there is a bad batch out there. I have done enough airplane failure analysis to get suspicious when two of two break. These nuts came with the finishing kit. Mine came to last winter, 1997. If you remember the nuts going on easy then you have busted nuts. Gene Francis, Boulder CO, and glad I found them now instead of later. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson)
Subject: Re: An oopsie to not make
Date: Jan 15, 1998
> > I just thought I would warn people who are about to start drilling > > their wing skins to not skip a step that I glossed over. > > -Joe > > Would this be RV4...6.....8 ????? > > Derek Reed OR RV6A I'm building a 6A. The 6 wing is identical in this area. I bet the 4 and 8 are, too, but don't know for sure. -Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: Analog or Digital?
From: ebundy(at)Juno.com (Ed Bundy)
>For those of you have used both analog and digital (numeric type, not >digital representations of analog) RPM & M.P. gauges, which do you >prefer and why? Hi Rob. I have an analog MAP, and an E.I. tach. The tach has a digital window and a series of LED's that show an analog arc. After the first 15 minutes, I have never even noticed the arc. All of the lights could be burned out for all I know. The digital display is very intuitive and easy to read. So is the analog MAP. I think either way will be your "favorite" after you spend a few hours with it. Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFaile <DFaile(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: masking tape and WD-40 - NO!
I do not know how it reacts with plastic, but Avon Skin-So-Soft is great for removing the sticky stuff and a whole lot more. If anybody knows how it works on plastic, I hope they will share that information. david faile CFII/A&P Christen Eagle since '82 RV6 started Fairfield, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William G. Knight" <airshows1(at)msn.com>
Subject: Changing tip-up to slider
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Am about to buy a tip-up and want to change it to a slider. Anybody done that or have some familiarity with what you have to do. Will need new canopy kit, of course, plus some structure and will also have to re-skin parts of upper fuselage. Thanks. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com>
Subject: Re: cracked nuts
Oh man! You're just _asking_ for it. Chris > > If you remember the nuts going on easy then you have busted nuts. > > Gene Francis, Boulder CO, > and glad I found them now instead of later. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: Navaid Servo Installation
> Recently there was information on the installation of the Navaid aileron > servo in the wing of the RV-6. I am about to close up the second (right) > wing and would like to put provisions in for the servo in case I decide > to install the system later. I have the footprint drawing and a picture > of the servo from Navaid but I'm curious as to how to attach the servo > pushrod to the aileron linkage [snip!] I have a copy of a hand-drawn sketch I got from Navaid -- it is not their drawing, it originally came from a customer, but they provided it to me. Their number is (615) 267-3311 If you can't get it from them, email me privately and I will dig it out and send you a copy. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
This months Sport Aviation (1/98) on p.77-79) has an article about dimpled tape to prevent or reduce airflow separation on airplane surfaces. The article reports a 10mph increase on a 150 HP RV3 (N107SS) with dimple tape at the max thickness of the prop and the airfoils, and a 8 mph increase on another RV3 (N894FS) with tape just on the prop. Does anyone out know about this and how creditable the test is? It would be my guess, that adding dimples to crude aero shapes such as spheres or tubes would reduce the drag significantly, but would probably increase drag on thin airfoils like a propeller running at just below Mach 1 at the tip. But it wouldn't be the first time that my intuitive sub-sonic aero analysis was in left field. Bernie Kerr , Finishing wings and starting bulkheads on 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: Paul Peterson <paul.peterson(at)ibm.net>
Subject: PPG DPX-171 Primer
Hello fellow RVers Has anyone any experience with PPG's DPX 171 primer? I checked the archives and didn't find any references. Can anyone tell me if it would a good primer for the inside surfaces? Paul Peterson RV-8...starting the rudder. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVGEM <RVGEM(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: Changing tip-up to slider
Did it last year on a 6a. Youn will need top front skin recut rear skin revised fus. ribs from firewall to panel new panel Apart from that its easy !! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
My understanding of the theory is that this technique should work for any non-laminar flow airfoil. Probably as with all black magic there is a right and wrong way to do this, what is right for one airfoil may be wrong for another, and done incorrectly it probably would be worse than what you started with. Has anyone tried one of the Felix props written up in Sport Aviation a few months ago? This appeared to be another piece of magic that got my interest. You play left field and I'll play right field. Mike Wills RV-4 (fuse on order) willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil > >It would be my guess, that adding dimples to crude aero shapes such as spheres >or tubes would reduce the drag significantly, but would probably increase drag >on thin airfoils like a propeller running at just below Mach 1 at the tip. But >it wouldn't be the first time that my intuitive sub-sonic aero analysis was in >left field. > >Bernie Kerr , Finishing wings and starting bulkheads on 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Don't know how credible this testing is, or if 'dimples' are the best answer. This guy must be an avid golfer. The general idea is sound, however. It has to do with re-energizing the boundary layer of airflow across a surface (wing), just ahead of the point where the flow tends to separate (there are methods for finding this point -smearing oil on your wing and going flying being one). The sailplane crowd has been at it for years (decades). High performance glass sailplanes are often seen with 'turbulator tape' strategically placed (spanwise) on their wings (along with other go-fast 'tricks'). This tape is often called 'zig-zag tape' -being roughly .020 thick and ~1/4" wide and cut in a zig zag pattern (kinda' like it was cut with large pinking shears). It is proven to work, and is not even disputed (as far as I know). Very similar results as with vortex generators -as it serves the same function, basically. However it apparently works best on really clean (laminar flow) wings. The first I had heard of such tape used on a powered plane was on the Lancair 'Dream Catcher' -the builder admitted looking at sailplanes for performance ideas. Anyway, he claimed about 5 mph or something like that in cruise just from the tape (on the wing). He must have believed in the stuff to stick it on his otherwise immaculate airplane. Don't know just how effective this would be on RV wings. My guess is that Van, being a 'glider guider' and performance nut, would have the stuff on his planes if he thought it would work there (I'll bet it's on his DG 600). I haven't had the chance to try it on my -4 yet. But the thought occurred to me some time ago. I'm sure there are people out there who know a lot more about this than I do... Scott N4ZW Glider CFI (among other notorious things) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: Ron Wilcox <rwilcox(at)qnet.com>
Subject: Re: PPG DPX-171 Primer
The other 3 RV-6 builders in my office have used it exclusivly and have recommended it to me. I understand it will become difficult to find in California (South Coast enviornmental protection agency) in the future, but works fine on aircraft. (Oh darn, do I have to make a trip to Las Vegas to buy it! :-) ) Ron Wilcox 4th in my office building a RV-6 N826LR (Reserved) Empenage > >Hello fellow RVers > >Has anyone any experience with PPG's DPX 171 primer? I checked the >archives and didn't find any references. Can anyone tell me if it would >a good primer for the inside surfaces? > >Paul Peterson >RV-8...starting the rudder. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK)
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: cracked nuts
If you remember the nuts going on easy then you have busted nuts. > > Gene Francis, Boulder CO, > and glad I found them now instead of later. > Sounds painful. George #80006 Nuts intact, last time I looked. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK)
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Alumiprep/Alodine ?
Trevor: can anyone tell me how much Alumiprep/Alodine it will take to complete the RV 8 airframe. Trevor Mills Brisbane Australia. Trevor: I used almost a gallon of each on empennage. Have now switched to one step primer. George #80006 Fuel tank leak tested: no leaks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: aerobatic weight - RV-8
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Hi all, Still waiting impatiently for my empenage kit. I can't find a listing for the aerobatic weight of the RV-8. I assume it's less than gross, but is it enough to allow a passenger to ride along without limiting the fuel too much? Just curious. Russell Duffy SlingShot SS-003, N8754K RV-8 empenage in the mail Navarre, FL rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Re: cracked nuts
I thought this was going to be a post about the need for _guys_ to be careful when climbing into or out of the airplane. Ask me how I jumped to that conclusion. Bill B -careful to wear non-slip shoes- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK)
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Fuel sender ring cutout
>>> "How large should the hole be made for the tank sender/access plate reinforcement ring in the tank root rib? Should only the inside of the stiffener depression be removed or the entire inside piece AND the stiffener ring..thus making the hole the same diameter as the..." Brian: It's well hidden, but check Section C-C on the fuel tank drawing. There's an undimensioned line there, which, if scaled, indicates this opening should be about 4 3/4" in diameter...smaller than the reinforcing ring i.d. That worked fine for mine. g'day. George #80006 Fuel tank passed leak test. reinforcement ring inside diameter? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pmartin Compaq" <Pmartin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender ring cutout
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Dear Brian, I experienced the same problem. I have serial no 2 wing kit. I called Van at the time and discovered that apparently some of the first kits have incorrect embossments in the fuel tank root rib. Van apologized and promptly sent me new tank root ribs with the correct embossments. normally the hole is cut about 3/4" smaller than the O.D. of the access plate and the embossment is removed entirely. Dick Martin RV8 fuselage out of jig next week---------- > From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Fuel sender ring cutout > Date: Wednesday, January 14, 1998 8:09 PM > > > g'day all, > > How large should the hole be made for the tank sender/access plate > reinforcement ring in the tank root rib? Should only the inside of the > stiffener depression be removed or the entire inside piece AND the > stiffener ring..thus making the hole the same diameter as the > reinforcement ring inside diameter? I can't find the hole diameter > specified in the manual or the plans. And, I've found the little tiny > tooling hole in the rib will NOT serve as the center for the fly cutter > bit! It's off by just a wee bit. > > Now, to remember basic geometry to find the center of a circle...draw > tangential lines, bisect the angle, do it again...or sumthin.... > > > Brian Denk > -8 wing stuff > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > > y help would be greatly appreciated. And to Matt Dralle, > this may be off the subject, but it was the best way to find the information I > needed, I apologize. > > -Nick > Stolley > Woodbury, > MN, US > 30 hour > student pilot > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net>
Subject: Re: PPG DPX-171 Primer
Ron Wilcox wrote: > > ... > The other 3 RV-6 builders in my office have used it exclusivly > Ron Wilcox... > 4th in my office building a RV-6 > N826LR (Reserved) Empenage Wow. WHERE do you work??? Lockheed??? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Date: Jan 15, 1998
Subject: Guideline Reminder Messages...
Hello everyone, Well, there seems to be some confusion over the automated Guideline postings that I started about a week ago. I had been receiving an increased amount of "complaint email" about the signal-to-noise ratio on the (RV)List of late. Someone suggested that perhaps the individual paragraphs from the Guidelines could be sent out in some simi-random order every few days. This would make it more likely that everyone would actually read them. It seemed like a good idea to me so I came up with a scheme and it has been working pretty well. The process is *completely automated*, so if one of the Guidelines shows up right after your posting to the List, *PLEASE DON'T* think that it was directed solely at you! As far as I'm concerned, the automated Guideline postings serve to remind us all of what the List is actually for and how we should use it. With the help of a fellow Lister, I will be adding a few more Guidelines to the current list soon. Please take a moment to read each of the Guidelines when they are posted to the List. They are short and only take a second to read and, if followed, will contribute greatly health and high-level content of this List. Thanks for all your support!! Matt Dralle RV and Zenith List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144 <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Lycoming Overhaul Manual
I'm about to dig into my *new* (old) O-320-D2J and need the appropriate overhaul manual. Is the Lycoming Direct Drive Overhaul Manual offered by Aircraft Spruce for <$20 the document I'm looking for? Some of you engine experts please point me in the right direction. Thanks, Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel pump vent line
<34BDB02F.1E23(at)mail.erols.com>
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 16, 1998
>A good practice is to ensure the fuel pump vent line does not exit >near >the engine exhaust for obvious reasons. > > > > > Very true; which is way I didn't feel I had to mention it. Having it exit the cowl at the main air exit in the bottom doesn't mean it has to be right next to an exhaust pipe! Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: cracked nuts
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 16, 1998
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: "Robert G. Miller" <rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net>
Subject: Re: Black Airplanes
Du Ponte's color chart for Chroma One has a chart on the back which depicts the temperatures on the inside of closed vehicles with different color exterior finishes. According to du Ponte, at 90 deg. F., the inside temperature of a white car will reach approx. 130 deg., while the inside temp. of a black car will reach 220 deg. If this is true, the higher temperature not only makes the plane more uncomfortable during the summer months, but also reeks havoc on the avionics, instruments and interior. Additionally, most plastic planes are painted white for precisely this reason, the darker color absorbs more heat which damages the fiberglass. Robert Miller Tom Martin wrote: > > I flew a black RV4 for two years. Everyone told me that it was the easiest > plane to see in the air that they had seen. It was hotter sitting on the > ramp, but not in the air, the plane is only as hot as the air around it. > There are lots of black cars out there that seem to survive. > It does take more effort to keep clean, that would be my only complaint. It > sure turned a lot of heads wherever I went! > > Tom Martin > planeless :-( > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 1998
From: "Robert G. Miller" <rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net>
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
I am personally familiar with the designer of this dimple tape and have flown both ot the RV's cited in the article. Quite frankly, I personally did not notice any difference between before and after. However, others have. Testing is quite difficult because the slightest change in density altitude could account for the minor increases claimed. I also recall an article that blasted the droop tips popular a decade or so ago. According to the article, the tips did not affect speed, but rather affected the indicated speed, thus creating the impression of increased performance. Anyway, there was a mistake in the article-- the two RVs were RV-4's, not -3's as indicated. For anyone interested, both planes will be at Sun 'n Fun. If anyone is interested, email me direct and I will provide you with the names and phone numbers of the two owners. Robert Miller rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net Kerrjb wrote: > > This months Sport Aviation (1/98) on p.77-79) has an article about dimpled > tape to prevent or reduce airflow separation on airplane surfaces. The article > reports a 10mph increase on a 150 HP RV3 (N107SS) with dimple tape at the max > thickness of the prop and the airfoils, and a 8 mph increase on another RV3 > (N894FS) with tape just on the prop. Does anyone out know about this and how > creditable the test is? > > It would be my guess, that adding dimples to crude aero shapes such as spheres > or tubes would reduce the drag significantly, but would probably increase drag > on thin airfoils like a propeller running at just below Mach 1 at the tip. But > it wouldn't be the first time that my intuitive sub-sonic aero analysis was in > left field. > > Bernie Kerr , Finishing wings and starting bulkheads on 6A > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcowens126 <Rcowens126(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: masking tape and WD-40 - NO!
Masking tape on the windshield canopy is a No No. Many years ago I left masking tape on the plexiglass side window of my Culver V for a couple of weeks before getting around to painting the adjacent area. When I peeled off the tape I found that the volatiles (solvents) in the tape had deeply etched the plexiglass. I tried to rub it out with paint rubbing compound without much luck. Back during WWII while I was in the US Navy I carved model planes and made a 10" P-51 with bubble canopy. I get a chunk of plastic from the canopy of a wrecked F4U and started sawing, filing, sanding (first with about 250 grip sandpaper and progressed to the finest grit available which I can't remember). Finally I polished for weeks with toothpaste, the only abrasive compound available, until I had a near-perfect bubble canopy clear as a real one. IMHO this technique will probably be the solution of last resort as it takes a whole bunch of sanding and polishing. Also check out FAR 43 Repair Manual for the repair method for windshields. I'm sure you will find it similar to the technique used on my model P-51. Bob Owens Tujunga, CA A&P plus other stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Johnnie989 <Johnnie989(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Why not just call the Guy and ask him about his ideas on the tape, He's a Very intelligent man and would probable welcome any comment you might have. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Around The World On A Wood Prop
My view of wood props has changed after reading the article in the new Sport Aviation magazine about Dick Rutan and Mike Melvill flying around the world, thru extreme weather conditions, etc. with wood props on their Long EZ 's. Shows that these props are tougher than we think. Lycoming O-320 (160 hp) and wood prop, thats a hard to beat package in the 'bang for the buck' department, and is my choice for my upcoming RV-8. Thanks Dick and Mike! Von Alexander MAlexan533(at)aol.com RV-8 # ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re:Sun & Fun Question
Does anyone know who or what to call for Accomodations at Sun & Fun - Any recomendations. Thank's Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Procedure to am landing lights.
How are the flying RV's adjusting the landing lights? After 4 night flights and the landing lights appears to do nothing except make me visible to others. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170 <Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: masking tape and WD-40 - NO!
<< including the plexiglass canopy. >Any advice as to removing this stuff!!? >> Has anyone tried Rain-X it sure does make the plexi shed water !!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbldr3170 <Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Analog or Digital?
<< For those of you have used both analog and digital (numeric type, not digital representations of analog) RPM & M.P. gauges, which do you prefer and why? >> My personal preference is analog, because you get used to the relative position of the needles and can scan quicker. with digital you must look closer to get the actual numbers. Only a difference of an eye blink - but............. My $.02 worth Regards, Merle (that crazy guy that thinks Chevy engines will fly) Miller ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WmSH <WmSH(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re:Sun & Fun Question
Bill Go to the Sun N Fun www page. Will have contacts there (www.sun-n- fun.com)......I think. Been a while since I visited the page. Also check out www.eaa.org for links to SNF site, listed under Regional Flyins link. T Regards Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
From: bob.char.reeves(at)Juno.com (Robert L Reeves)
Anyone know where you can get either tape, Turbulator or Dimpled? I'd like to give it a try. Bob Reeves Building Bearhawk, Flying RV-4 Hidden River Airport, Sarasota, Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver <A20driver(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Good question,Bob...I was wondering that!!!Also is the sizing and spacing of the dimples critical?? Jim Brown---A20driver Flying.. 3&4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Lycoming Overhaul Manual
From: rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr)
Kyle, Thats the one you want. You will also find it extreemly helpful to have the parts manual on hand . You can get it direct from Lycoming, #PC-103. Last time I looked it was $30 Regards, Bill RV4 N66WD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Overhaul Manual
>I'm about to dig into my *new* (old) O-320-D2J and need the appropriate >overhaul manual. Is the Lycoming Direct Drive Overhaul Manual offered by >Aircraft Spruce for <$20 the document I'm looking for? Some of you engine >experts please point me in the right direction. >Thanks, >Kyle Boatright The Lycoming Direct Drive OH Manual is sold through several outlets. The key issue is whether or not it has a current "Table of Limits" included. The process of removing the cylinders and splitting the crankcase hasn't changed in decades. The tolerances which are legal to assemble a new engine *DO* change as Lycoming tries to fix problems (exhaust valve sticking, Main Bearing distress from case fretting, etc.) You'll also want a copy of the parts manual for your engine (if you want to be able to shop TAP ads for the low price. :-) Most vendors will be much happier if you call and ask for stock and price on an LW-19764 rather than "that thing-a-ma-jigee that goes to the what-cha-call it. Especially if you are looking for 3 or 4 items... I'd give El Reno Aviation a call at 800-521-0333. Be sure and ask for *THEIR* engine parts catalog as well. They have a nice listing of parts for each engine family (O-235, O-320, O-360, etc.) with pricing which I have found to be reasonable. The Lycoming Parts catalog is loose leaf with binder and used to cost $35 plus postage. (Its been a while since I bought parts catalogs, you only need 1 for each model.) Bob Steward, A&P IA AA-1B N8978L AA-5A N1976L ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net>
Subject: Re:Sun & Fun Question
Hi, Pages 80 & 81, Jan. '98 Sport Aviation. www.sun-n-fun.org > >Does anyone know who or what to call for Accomodations at Sun & Fun - Any >recomendations. > >Thank's > >Bill >KB2DU(at)AOL.COM > > > > > Bruce Knoll RV6A to be QB Empennage Started snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Loren D. Jones" <Loren(at)LorenJones.com>
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Date: Jan 16, 1998
>minor increases claimed. I also recall an article that blasted the droop tips >popular a decade or so ago. According to the article, the tips did not affect >speed, but rather affected the indicated speed, thus creating the impression of >increased performance. Well, I put a pair of droop tips on the C-182 I owned back in '83 and my landing distances were *dramatically* shorter, so in addition to affecting indicated airspeed, they also affected "indicated landing distance"! Loren ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Akzo primer
Date: Jan 16, 1998
G'day folks, OK, here's a primer question for ya..(got my asbestos shorts on today, so flame away!): I just received the latest Aircraft Spruce catalog and noticed a two gallon zinc chromate kit that is pretty inexpensive..only $100 for the primer and catalyst. It's called "Akzo"...(I think). Any experiences with it? Will it require acid etching before application, thus negating cost savings somewhat? I've been using Vari prime and am very pleased with it...but it ain't cheap by any stretch of the imagination. Thanks in advance. Brian Denk -8 #379 wing stuff ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HillJW <HillJW(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Ref: Turbulator tape Do any of you know where to place the turbulator tape on lancair wings? (excuse the use of my bad language "lancair") I am a lancair owner who would like to know more about the placement of the tape during the interim while I repent, reform, and build my RV. thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: emcole(at)ix.netcom.com (Edward Cole)
Subject: Re: Lycoming Overhaul Manual
You wrote: > > >I'm about to dig into my *new* (old) O-320-D2J and need the appropriate >overhaul manual. Is the Lycoming Direct Drive Overhaul Manual offered by >Aircraft Spruce for <$20 the document I'm looking for? Some of you engine >experts please point me in the right direction. > >Thanks, > >Kyle Boatright > Kyle, I just ordered the complete set of manuals from Lycoming which included the overhaul manual, operators manual, and parts manuals. All for around $100. These are all at the curent rev level and include a card for updates. I believe the overhaul manual alone costs around $40. You can also order them from Sacramento Skyranch. (see archives for addresses and websites). If you need an order form from Lycoming, email me personally and I'll send you a copy. Ed Cole RV6A #24430 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RBusick505 <RBusick505(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Changing tip-up to slider
<< Am about to buy a tip-up and want to change it to a slider. Anybody done that or have some familiarity with what you have to do. Will need new canopy kit, of course, plus some structure and will also have to re-skin parts of upper fuselage. Thanks. Bill >> Bill Are you buying a plane that is already built and flying? As an earlier post indicated it is easy in the building process to make the change, a completed aircraft is something else, I would think that it would require some sort of additional paperwork with the FAA and an additional test period. As noted you will have to redo the instrument panel which might be a big deal if you have a lot of stuff already in it. You will probably have to take all the instuments/avionics out to put in the new structure. Bob Busick RV-6 Fremont CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: emcole(at)ix.netcom.com (Edward Cole)
Subject: Re:Sun & Fun Question
You wrote: > > >Does anyone know who or what to call for Accomodations at Sun & Fun - Any >recomendations. > >Thank's > >Bill >KB2DU(at)AOL.COM Bill, Sun and Fun has a web site with an area for accomodations. Look in up on Alta Vista or some other search engine. Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enha
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> >Anyone know where you can get either tape, Turbulator or Dimpled? I'd >like to give it a try. >Bob Reeves In my soaring days a lot of us used to make the tape by printing periods interspersed with spaces on Dymo label makers. Worked fine. The commercial soaring suppliers like Knauff and Grove have higher priced zig-zag tape. I think the Dymo tape would stick better to a propeller. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM Pacer N8025D RV-6QME N441LP Reserved Tip-Up Canopy Frame ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Bob Reeves, I believe that the author of the article, Tony Occhipini at 504-831-1816, would be a good place to start hunting the tape. If you are going to do it, I would be happy to help you with a simi-rigorous flight test program to document the results. I am a retired aero engineer, you came to my house at the TCAP gatoRVator Breakfast. Write me offline. Bernie Kerr ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: Thomas Frazer <tfrazer(at)sonic.net>
For Turbulator tape, gap seals and all that kinda stuff try: Tim Mara of Wings and Wheels (716) 664-6894 or wings(at)netsync.net His primary business is sailplane supplies (instruments, radios, the occasional glider) and he has been super to deal with. Tom Frazer who just ordered the preview plans for an RV-8 and is deciding if he wants to try his hand at homebuilding ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Akzo primer
<< I just received the latest Aircraft Spruce catalog and noticed a two gallon zinc chromate kit that is pretty inexpensive..only $100 for the primer and catalyst. It's called "Akzo"...(I think). Any experiences with it? Will it require acid etching before application, thus negating cost savings somewhat? I've been using Vari prime and am very pleased with it...but it ain't cheap by any stretch of the imagination. Thanks in advance. Brian Denk -8 #379 wing stuff >> Brian: I've posted this before, but one more time sure won't hurt. I've used this stuff (donated by John Hovan), BUT!! I've been told (geez- who told me this? It was a lister, I'm sure- Gary Corde maybe?) that this specific primer is for interior corrosion control only- not meant for topcoating. My fuzzy memory recalls Lockheed (MD-11 application) in the same conversation. It also sounds like this is exactly the application (interior only) you are intending to use it for. U S Paints makes some v good stuff, but I don't know if it is available on your side of the planet. Email me off the list for part #'s , if you want. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Black Airplanes
rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net wrote: > Du Ponte's color chart for Chroma One has a chart on the back which depicts > the > temperatures on the inside of closed vehicles with different color exterior > finishes. According to du Ponte, at 90 deg. F., the inside temperature of > a white > car will reach approx. 130 deg., while the inside temp. of a black car will > reach > 220 deg. Some years ago, (as I mentioned in an earlier post), NZ Dept of Conservation required all buildings in National Parks to be painted dark brown. I am a member of a ski club with a lodge in a National Park, and we dutifully changed the colour scheme as required. We noticed immediate problems with the building; doors sticking due to warping of the structure, planks splitting, nails pulling out, etc. I taped thermocouples to samples of various paint colours and logged the data for about 2 weeks during August (winter). The dark colour certainly heated up much more during the day (unfortunately, I've lost the actual figures). However, it also got much colder at night (black body radiation, etc). Obviously, this means that there's a temperature-related differential shrinkage problem as well as an expansion problem.. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Lycoming Overhaul Manual
We carry the official Lycoming Operators Manual for both the 0-320 and 0-360 series. And, yes, it does include the table of limits. The price is $19.00 plus $3 for postage. Andy Gold RV-Ation Bookstore www.rvbookstore.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: F604 cutout for sticks
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Listers, I've cut out the slots in the F604 as far as I dare for stick clearance. However, I've watched the Orndorff tapes concerning this cut out; and, George says it should be cut out until I hit the stops on the stick assembly. Well, that's no problem when pulling the stick back; but, if I do it on the forward stick, I could end up into the spar by the time I get enough clearance! I stopped enlarging cutout when I had it cut out around the bend in the flange. I still have some to go; but, I don't want to do any more right now. How far did you guys have to cut down on the web of the F604 before you quit? As best I can tell from the video and the manual photos, I should be about there. However, my sticks are still bumping the bulkhead long before bottoming out on the mount. For me, having the rear stops cleared is more important that going forward that far. The most I'll ever do is an inside loop or roll. :-) Jim Sears RV-6A #22220 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dbergh(at)micron.net
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
HillJW wrote: > > > Ref: Turbulator tape > Do any of you know where to place the turbulator tape on lancair wings? > (excuse the use of my bad language "lancair") > I am a lancair owner who would like to know more about the placement of the > tape during the interim while I repent, reform, and build my RV. > thanks. > Hello Just curious- what made you decide to build an RV after owning a Lancair? Dave Bergh. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Spruell" <sspruell(at)idexsystems.com>
Subject: Alumiprep/Alodine ?
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Importance: Normal > can anyone tell me how much Alumiprep/Alodine it > will take to complete the RV 8 airframe. > > Trevor Mills > Brisbane Australia. Trevor, I used a 1 quart bottle of alumiprep (mixed 3-1 with water) and a gallon of alodyne (not diluted) for my empennage and wings. I will need to buy more for the fuselage. I used 1 quart garden spray bottles to spray the stuff on and 10' lengths of plastic gutter as dip/catch troughs. Steven Spruell RV-6A N316RV (fuselage) Houston Bay Area RVators http://www.iwl.net/customer/markr/hbar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Lycoming Overhaul Manual
El Reno Aviation engine parts list (catalog) is a MUST HAVE for any homebuilder. Agree that prices are reasonable and they have a good stock of new and used parts. They also have magneto and carburetor parts. They are as good as Van's when it comes to customer service. It is very nice to have their published prices when shopping around. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell writes: > > >I'd give El Reno Aviation a call at 800-521-0333. Be sure and ask for >*THEIR* engine parts catalog as well. They have a nice listing of parts >for each engine family (O-235, O-320, O-360, etc.) with pricing which I >have found to be reasonable. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Re: F604 cutout for sticks
Jim, I wouldn't cut out anymore until you have the ailerons and elevators installed. The stops on those is what really limits the movement of the stick and that determines the size of the cut out needed, not the mount. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA Listers, I've cut out the slots in the F604 as far as I dare for stick clearance. However, I've watched the Orndorff tapes concerning this cut out; and, George says it should be cut out until I hit the stops on the stick assembly. Well, that's no problem when pulling the stick back; but, if I do it on the forward stick, I could end up into the spar by the time I get enough clearance! I stopped enlarging cutout when I had it cut out around the bend in the flange. I still have some to go; but, I don't want to do any more right now. How far did you guys have to cut down on the web of the F604 before you quit? As best I can tell from the video and the manual photos, I should be about there. However, my sticks are still bumping the bulkhead long before bottoming out on the mount. Jim Sears RV-6A #22220 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Rudder Stiffeners
Hi, I am ready to drill and rivet the rudders stiffeners to the rudder skin on my RV-6 project. The plans specify a 3/4" distance to the trailing edge for the last rivet. With the last hole back this far, how am I meant to back rivet it? The skin doesn't seem to bend back far enough to allow this. Thanks, -Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
> I am personally familiar with the designer of this dimple tape and have flown both > ot the RV's cited in the article. Quite frankly, I personally did not notice any > difference between before and after. However, others have. Testing is quite > difficult because the slightest change in density altitude could account for the > minor increases claimed. Sounds like a job for CAFE, like they tested the effects of waxing a while back. If any of you know those folks perhaps you could put a bug in their ear. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: cowling air exit issues
I just spend a pleasant evening (yeah, right!) making the fairing for the nosegear leg -to-lower cowl junction on the -6A, and while I was down there looking up at the beast I got to wondering about the exit area for the cooling air... It seems very crowded on the lower firewall for a semi-cylindrical fairing to smooth the edge of the FW to aid the exit of the cooling air. Yet I've seen this somewhere in pictures as a drag-reduction item; is this best reserved for the taildragger model? Looks like lots of trouble and questionable effectiveness on the nose gear setup, with all that structure in the way. Comments? And is anyone mitering the air exit tunnel on the lower cowl, or should it be left squared-off to the belly skin, as supplied? Angling it a bit woould allow a slightly larger exit area for the cooling air, and give a tad more clearance around the exhaust stacks where they poke out. As it is, I have fiberglass within ~1/4 inch of the stacks at the outlet.... problem? Bill Boyd full temp probe instrumentation on 4 cyls is _expensive_ but so is aviation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HillJW <HillJW(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Dave: The lancair is a very nice flying little bird, but I need one to use on a short grass strip, and don't feel the lancair is the right thing for that. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Stiffeners
> > With the last hole back this far, how am I meant to back rivet >it? The skin doesn't seem to bend back far enough to allow this. Just completed mine Glenn. Seemed to work ok for me. Tight yes, but worked ok. Bill Pagan -8 Rudder > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: PPG DPX-171 Primer
>Paul Peterson paul.peterson(at)ibm.net wrote: > Has anyone any experience with PPG's DPX 171 primer? I checked the > archives and didn't find any references. Can anyone tell me if it would > a good primer for the inside surfaces? > Paul Peterson RV-8...starting the rudder. Paul, I gathered extensive info on PPG primers & paint and find no mention of a DPX-171 primer. There is a DX 1791 Self Etching Primer. I called PPG tech supt and they said this self-etching primer is not needed on clean aluminum if you use Alodine. Alodine provides the "adhesion" enhancement fully equivalent to an etching primer. Alodine is much cheaper and much easier/safer to apply. I suspect you or someone communicating with you dropped the "9" from DX 1791 to yield 171. In an earlier post last week I outlined my approach: Use PPG DX-330 wax/de-greaser, PPG DX 503 Alodine, then Pratt & Lambert epoxy zinc chromate primer. I asked two different paint company tech support offices why I should use the more expensive and more dangerous epoxy varient instead of simple zinc chromate: The answer is "adhesion" - epoxy primer sticks to things better. It is another "hedge" against any lapse or glitch in your surface preparation before priming - the epoxy primer will stick better. Good luck with your studying and decision making about all the many facets of building aircraft, as you join the rest of us as we dutifully "re-invent the wheel" on how to painfully & slowly build a great airplane. (YES -I want to be on the team of RV builders who "prototype" a new builder's manual. Notwithstanding Vans has a great product, great drawings, and a great (by comparison with others) builders manual, the manual stinks - but I can stand it!! (Please excuse me - I couldn't hold that back any more. I stayed silent during the dialog a couple of weeks ago about discontent in this area.) David Carter, RV-6 empennage (about to rivet the front spar on skeleton - parts are painted except for inside of skins); Nederland, (SE) Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Johnnie989 <Johnnie989(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
I would only say, as I have said before, Contact Mr. Ochipinti, I would bet he would be more than happy to answer any questions you might have on the Dimple tape you might have. He is an interisting man to talk with and also has a wealth of knowledge on propeller design and enginering. You can find his address in Sport Avation. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1998
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Akzo primer
>I just received the latest Aircraft Spruce catalog and noticed a two >gallon zinc chromate kit that is pretty inexpensive..only $100 for the >primer and catalyst. It's called "Akzo"... I used Akzo 2 part epoxy primer on my Kitfox 4 years ago. It's the primer Boeing used to use and I got it from their same wholesale source. It goes on easy and is extremely durable (put some on a steel hinge 4 years ago, didn't top coat it, and left it out in the rain. No rust yet). So when I went to look for it again for my RV-8 I found out that Akzo had sold their primer line to Dexter Aerospace. Anyway, to make a long story short, I contacted the local Dexter rep at Boeing, and he got me the same primer but now under their name. Cost me $86 for a 2 gallon kit. I don't know where A/C Spruce is getting theirs. But if you can get this stuff I would highly recommend it. It's been tested and certified by Boeing and will last longer than our airplanes. Mike Robbins RV-8 tail kit just starting ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson)
Subject: Re: Rudder Stiffeners
Date: Jan 16, 1998
> I am ready to drill and rivet the rudders stiffeners to the rudder skin > on my RV-6 project. > > The plans specify a 3/4" distance to the trailing edge for the last > rivet. With the last hole back this far, how am I meant to back rivet > it? The skin doesn't seem to bend back far enough to allow this. Yeah. It's a pain. If you have two pair of hands working on it, you can get them. You have to use at least one hand to hold the skin down, at least one more to pull the top skin back, and one to drive the rivet gun. As you can see, this process takes from 3 to 5 hands :-) You have to peel the skin back further than you would like. It feels like you're un-bending the trailing radius, but it didn't seem to cause a problem for me. But it's awkward. -Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Rudder Stiffeners
Date: Jan 17, 1998
Glen: I clamped the rudder to the table & used tape attached to the back of my table to hold it back out of my way. Allow a large bend ( let it roll back) & don't crimp it. YOu may have a too long gun. I have a short 2X & a long 3X. If your have help be sure you discuss with them, the skin on the rudder & elev must be handled gently & keep them straight even when dimpling. Don Jordan~~ 6A-wings~~ Arlington,Tx donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: aerobatic weight - RV-8
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 17, 1998
> >Still waiting impatiently for my empenage kit. I can't find a listing >for >the aerobatic weight of the RV-8. I assume it's less than gross, but >is it >enough to allow a passenger to ride along without limiting the fuel >too >much? Just curious. > >Russell Duffy >SlingShot SS-003, N8754K >RV-8 empenage in the mail >Navarre, FL >rad(at)pen.net >http://www.pen.net/~rad/ > > > > Russell, I am not certain, but I believe the RV-8 Aerobatic gross weight is 1550 lbs. Using the yellow RV-8 as an example; it would give you 540 lbs for fuel and people (empty weight 1060). With half fuel (20 gal at 120 lbs.) it would leave 420 lbs for people assuming you could have the C.G. somewhere other than near the aft end of the range. My preference would be to set a limit of no more than 2/3 of the way back in the range. Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 17, 1998
Subject: Re: cowling air exit issues
There is a short article on P94 of the 16 years of RVator by Bob Brumwell doing it on his RV6. Bob still has it on his plane, but has no idea if it helps. Bernie Kerr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dbergh(at)micron.net
Date: Jan 17, 1998
Subject: Re: Rudder Stiffeners
Hi Glenn & Judi wrote: > > > Hi, > > I am ready to drill and rivet the rudders stiffeners to the rudder skin > on my RV-6 project. > > The plans specify a 3/4" distance to the trailing edge for the last > rivet. With the last hole back this far, how am I meant to back rivet > it? The skin doesn't seem to bend back far enough to allow this. > > Thanks, > -Glenn Gordon Hi Glenn, As long as you have not completed the trailing edge bend the skin will open up enough to allow access to the last rivets, although I agree the "pucker factor" is a little high the first couple of times you open up the skin that far! Keep on building! Dave Bergh RV6 wings Mtn Home ID ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: Ron Wilcox <rwilcox(at)qnet.com>
Subject: Re: PPG DPX-171 Primer
> >Ron Wilcox wrote: >> >> ... >> The other 3 RV-6 builders in my office have used it exclusivly >> Ron Wilcox... > >> 4th in my office building a RV-6 >> N826LR (Reserved) Empenage > >Wow. >WHERE do you work??? Lockheed??? I work at the greatest place on earth. NASA Dryden Flight Research Center. We have the privilege of working on the most excellent aircraft in the world. And 4 of us have chosen the RV homebuilt, the most excellent homebuilt aircraft in the world!! I encourage you to browse our web site, and see what exciting things are happening in the Flight Research world. Ron ------------------------------------------------------------------ Ronald M. Wilcox National Aeronautics and Flight Operations Engineer Space Administration F-16XL Digital Upgrade Dryden Flight Research Center F-18 Active Aeroelastic Wing PO Box 273 MS: D2050 Flight Termination Systems Edwards, CA 93523-0273 ron.wilcox@dfrc.nasa.gov http://www.dfrc.nasa.gov ------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowen.com>
Subject: Lycoming Overhaul Manual
Date: Jan 17, 1998
I couldn't find El Reno on the Yeller Pages or Yahoo. How do I get this 'must have'? Larry larry(at)bowen.com RV-8 emp in the mail On Friday, January 16, 1998 6:58 PM, gasobek(at)Juno.com [SMTP:gasobek(at)Juno.com] wrote: > > El Reno Aviation engine parts list (catalog) is a MUST HAVE for any > homebuilder. Agree that prices are reasonable and they have a good stock > of new and used parts. They also have magneto and carburetor parts. > They are as good as Van's when it comes to customer service. It is very > nice to have their published prices when shopping around. > > Gary A. Sobek > RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell > > writes: > > > > > > >I'd give El Reno Aviation a call at 800-521-0333. Be sure and ask for > >*THEIR* engine parts catalog as well. They have a nice listing of parts > >for each engine family (O-235, O-320, O-360, etc.) with pricing which I > >have found to be reasonable. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: F604 cutout for sticks
Jim Sears wrote: > > > Listers, > > I've cut out the slots in the F604 as far as I dare for stick clearance. > However, I've watched the Orndorff tapes concerning this cut out; > and, George says it should be cut out until I hit the stops on the stick > assembly. Well, that's no problem when pulling the stick back; but, if I > do it on the forward stick, I could end up into the spar by the time I get > enough clearance! I stopped enlarging cutout when I had it cut out > around the bend in the flange. I still have some to go; but, I don't want > to do any more right now. How far did you guys have to cut down on > the web of the F604 before you quit? As best I can tell from the video > and the manual photos, I should be about there. However, my sticks > are still bumping the bulkhead long before bottoming out on the mount. > > For me, having the rear stops cleared is more important that going > forward that far. The most I'll ever do is an inside loop or roll. :-) > > Jim Sears > RV-6A #22220 >Jim : The easiest way to determine how much to cut out of F604 is to have the elevators installed so that the linkage can be adjusted for the proper travel of the elevator and you can use the control stops at the elevator to determine hoe much to remove from the F604 bulkhead. I have almost half of the flange on the F604 cut away but am no where near the curve to the web. Don,t try to cut away the flange & web until the control tube stops rotating as you will have cut too far. If you have already cut out the curve leading to the web of F604 you may repair it with a doubler that will fit from the flange area left and the area above the spars on the web. Good luck on your project ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
I see in the RVator that the -9 is flying. Anybody know the status of the 8A? Fuselage about ready for order? Flying? Problems? Bill Pagan -8A rudder (wings to ship in mid february) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: Toad <toad(at)favorites.com>
Subject: #rvchat
Hello: an RV chat room has been set up on another website. You can get to the room by either an irc client software,(recomended)or by a java enabled chat from the web. for irc, point your software to rco.iglobal.net port 6667, enter then type /join #rvchat to join or to make the room if you are the first to get there at that time. For access from the web, http://www.rconline.com make your way to the chat area of this model airplane oriented site, get into the java enabled chat, type /join# rvchat to join or make the room. that is all there is to it. If you want to talk on any topic concerning building or flying an Rv, and have not the patients to email privatly then wait for a reply, just go to the chat room for real time answers with your corespondants! simple. I will be in nightly from about 8:00 pm mst but ya can go there anytime to use the chat channell if needed. thnx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 17, 1998
Subject: Re: PPG DPX-171 Primer
Ron: How log did it take the Feds to get back to you on the Reserve Tail Number. Tnx Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re:
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 17, 1998
>I see in the RVator that the -9 is flying. Anybody know the status >of the >8A? > >Fuselage about ready for order? Flying? Problems? > >Bill Pagan Most of the design engineering and prototype work is completed, but construction is still underway. The fuse. interior was just painted so now we can begin final assembly and systems installation. We also are completing the wing construction. Even us guys in the prototype shop love this RV-8 kit. We can complete an RV-8 wing in about 6 working days (helps to have done it a few times before). I believe the plan we are working with right now is to complete the airplane and get it to sun and fun. We will also be getting as much flight time on it as we can (this is such hard work) so that we can lock in the design and get started shipping fuse kits. When will that be, and how much will they cost? I don't think anyone knows the answer to those questions at this time, but we are going as fast as we can. Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-4 for Sale
Date: Jan 17, 1998
This is directed to anyone interested in purchasing a finished RV-4. I just came back from Troy, Alabama, where Mr. Marcus Brooks has his 0-360, low time A/F and engine, neat military paint job aircraft for sale. With only backseat RV-4 time under my belt, I was given a checkride by Mr. Brook's "test pilot". We did straight and level and then some intermediate aerobatics. There are full controls in the back seat. When we landed, the "test pilot" suggested I take the front seat. I was really surprised, but did not hesitate even a gigasecond to say "OK". I do have some tailwheel time, but this was different. We spent very little time discussing systems, switches, etc. I started her up, taxied out to the numbers like she was my cessna 150, and eased in the throttle . It was exciting and at the same time a non-experience. RV's really are gentle. I flew her all over and did rolls and stalls, and I'm really not an experienced aerobatic pilot(though I have always dreamed of it). When I decided to land, I did a 360 to loose some altitude since I was at 2000 AGL and only a mile from the A/P and then I just pretended It was a J-3 cub that flies fast and floats. I did what was needed to get to the threshold and she set her down smoother that I ever landed my C-150. WOW, was it great!! I went to Alabama with the intention of purchasing this plane. Upon returning home, My neighbor decided to sell his 0-360,RV-4 to me. I said yes since he is nearby, but I would be equally ready to buy Mr. Brook's RV-4 as well. It is pretty well built, very smooth running, very straight and true, and the price is fair. He is asking $46.000, and it is well worth it. So... if any one is interested, call him at (334) 474-3212, or e-mail <brooks6@p-c-net.net> . This is a nice plane. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Re: Procedure to am landing lights.
gasobek(at)Juno.com wrote: > > > How are the flying RV's adjusting the landing lights? After 4 night > flights and the landing lights appears to do nothing except make me > visible to others. Gary, what kind do you have? I am just finishing the installation of the Duckworth lights from Vans and hope that isn't what you have. John Kitz N721JK Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: pjl51(at)Juno.com (Patrick J LaVigne)
subscribe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Delay in Feds processing N#s
>How log did it take the Feds to get back to you on the Reserve Tail Number. >Tnx >Bill >KB2DU(at)AOL.COM Although the N# wasn't for an RV, I think this bit is still important for you soon to be RVators out there. Last summer I purchased a plane and imported it from Canada. (Nice exchange rate...) I knew I was not going to be able to fly it in the US until *I* had the registration and N# applied, so I started early, 6 weeks before I took delivery of the plane. I sent the request with several N#s that I liked to FAA in OKC along with the necessary $$ in the form of a Certified Check. I also had some other registration papers in the envelope (you'll see why this is important in a minute). I waited patiently for 6 weeks while arrangements to ferry the plane to the US were being taken care of. When the plane arrived, and prior to signing the paperwork over from Canadian registration to me, we flew it briefly. I called FAA and tried to check the status of the N# registration, and found that they didn't have any record of my request. At first I thought it was "lost in the mail", and then I realised that I had gotten the "other" paperwork back complete from the FAA that was in the same envelope! So, they did get it, and then misplaced it. I tried to cancel the cashier's check, but they had "used" part of it for the other paperwork, and it had gone through weeks earlier. I ended up biting the bullet and sending a second request in (along with more $$$) and found that in the delay, my #1 choice N# had been taken by someone else. :-( It took a little over 3 weeks to get my N# confirmation back after the *SECOND* attempt. All during this time I was unable to fly my new toy because I didn't have an N#! The moral to the story? You can't start TOO early to reserve your N# with the FAA. It costs $10 per year to keep your choice active on their reserved list, but if you have selected a "cute" N# or just want a certain one which is special to you, then its a small price to pay even if you're building for 5 years or more. As a side note, I was told by a friend that I should have had AOPA do the N# for me, as they have people on staff for title searches and other requests like N# reservation, etc. If I had thought of that, I'd have been able to fly my new plane the very next day after it arrived, rather than fuming on the ground because of a bureaucratic screw up. Bob Steward, A&P IA AA-1B N8978L AA-5A N1976L ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Lycoming Overhaul Manual
>I couldn't find El Reno on the Yeller Pages or Yahoo. How do I get this 'must have'? >Larry >> >I'd give El Reno Aviation a call at 800-521-0333. Be sure and ask for >> >*THEIR* engine parts catalog as well. They have a nice listing of parts >> >for each engine family (O-235, O-320, O-360, etc.) with pricing which I >> >have found to be reasonable. They may not have a web site. But they do have a toll free number. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 17, 1998
Subject: Re: Wing Tapes
Does any one know if there are Wing Tapes for the Pre Punched Wings or just the set I have purchased from Van's by George & Becki Orndorff " RV Wings Construction " I started watching the tape & realized that George is drilling the skins. Then the light's went on " My skins are pre punched " Can I use these tapes for the pre punched skins - Thanks Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Tapes
> " My skins are pre punched " Can I use these tapes for the pre punched skins - > The only difference is that on the non pre punched skins YOU have to lay out the rivet spacing. Otherwise every thing is identical. Gary Zilik RV-6A s/n 22994 Fusalage in jig ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford)
Subject: Rudder Stiffeners
Glenn, Bend that baby back! Be careful, but as long as you pull the skin open gently it will be OK. You're going to be finishing the trailing edge anyway. One note on finishing the trailing edge... Be sure your "brake" has as tight of a hinge as you can find for it. I made the mistake of using 3 1/2" door hinges at first. The diameter of the pivoting portion was too large and the brake wouldn't crush my trailing edge enough. I ended up going with a piano hinge all along the length of the brake. This cured my problem. I just finished my rudder tonight... Onto the elevators! Jon Elford RV6 #25201 Right Elevator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RWilliJill <RWilliJill(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: archives
Does any one know if their is an archives list keep on rv-list questions and responses,if so,how do I connect to it? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144 <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: RWilliJill(at)aol.com
<< RWilliJill(at)aol.com >> Go to Matronics.com, search around for a few minutes, and you will find the online RV-List archives. The archives have a built-in search engine. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net>
Subject: Hangers
I have a friend who is looking for the address and phone number of a comapny that manufactures aircraft "T' hangars. The name of the company is "Port-to-Port". Has anyone ever heard of them? Thanks Fran Malczynski Olcott, NY RV6 (Wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau <MLaboyteau(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Micromonitor interference solved!
A couple of weeks ago I posted a question concerning radio frequency interference with my RMI Micromonitor. Well, I have managed to solve the problem. I believe that the main problem was that I installed a terminal block for all of the shield termination's that was too far away from the monitor. All of the shield drain wires were about 14" long. So I relocated the ground block as close to the monitor as possible, allowing me to shorten the drain wires to about 3". I have a multiple tab ground block from B&C on my firewall for all of my grounds. But for some reason the monitor picks up rf interference when it gets its main ground from this point. Mine works better when its main ground is connected to the radio rack that its mounted in. Originally, I had also deviated from the installation manual for the wiring of the oil and fuel pressure sensors. It specified two conductor shielded wire; a signal wire, signal ground, and the shield connected to common ground. I didn't think that it would make a difference, so I used single conductor shielded wire. Well, it does make a difference. Switching to the two conductor shielded wire eliminated the interference with these indications. Several other builders reported that they had an interference with their carb temp indications, but my engine is fuel injected so my carb temp indication is disabled. I'm very happy with the Micromonitor. Ron at RMI was always very happy to talk to me about the problems I was having, and I think it's a great product. I hope no one interpreted my problems as dissatisfaction with the Micromonitor. Thanks to everyone who responded on and off of the list. Mark LaBoyteaux MLaboyteau(at)aol.com RV-6a N106RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RWilliJill <RWilliJill(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: archives
Thanks for the quick response for my archive question. I have the information I need .No futher response will be nesscessary. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net>
Subject: Left Elevator
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Can someone give some advice: I'm assembling the left elevator skeleton I've got the E-605 clecoed in place in skin then I put the E-606 in place and it sits on top of the E-605 it sits below the skin line. Should I shim between 605-606 or let skin over hang spar by 1/16 of inch. Regards---Mike Comeaux RV6QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N95MF <N95MF(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Electronic ignitions
Several days ago there was some discussion of the the two experimental electric ignition sytems, Electroaire by Jeff Rose, and the Klaus Savior system. I am leaning toward the Jeff Rose system because of its ease of installation, and I met Jeff Rose at Oshkosh and he makes a very good case for his product. Has anyone out there had problems with the Jeff Rose system ? Has anyone using the system not realized the benefits that are supposed to occur? Inquiring minds want to know. Regards, Mark G. #80087, waiting for finish kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Qmax LLC <QmaxLLC(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
<< Ref: Turbulator tape > Do any of you know where to place the turbulator tape on lancair wings? > (excuse the use of my bad language "lancair") > I am a lancair owner who would like to know more about the placement of the > tape during the interim while I repent, reform, and build my RV. > thanks. >> "The Dimples must be placed spanwise on the maximum camber (usually the thickest part) of the airplane's airfoil, wings and propeller" ________________________________________________________________________________ My question, though, is how come this isn't on all the newer commercial prop- driven a/c? I assume the size of a 737 and it's cruise speed are factors, and re-cert costs keeps it off GA a/c being built, but there is a lot of newer commuter iron out there and this is not a new discovery. The article mentions wings and prop but says zero about the tail surfaces. Drag is drag so why not there as well? Bob Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: FAA data base
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Listers, I was just playing with the "N" number search for a few minutes and decided to take a serious look. However, when I looked at the FARs pertaining to the "N" number, I couldn't find anything on what is legal to use. I know there are a couple of numbers or letters not legal to use; but, what is legal and in what orders. For example, I'm interested in using a number that begins N0xxxx. Is it legal to have a leading zero after the "N"? I guess I need a source for this info so I can play my games with it and get my "N" number done since I'm planning to make my first flights this summer. (Wishful thinking?) Jim Sears RV-6A #22220 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FAA data base
Date: Jan 18, 1998
> From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> > I was just playing with the "N" number search for a few minutes and > decided to take a serious look. However, when I looked at the FARs > pertaining to the "N" number, I couldn't find anything on what is legal to > use... Jim, FAR Sec. 47.15: (b) A U.S. identification number may not exceed five symbols in addition to the prefix letter "N". These symbols may be all numbers (N10000), one to four numbers and one suffix letter (N 1000A), or one to three numbers and two suffix letters (N 100AB). The letters "I" and "O" may not be used. The first zero in a number must always be preceded by at least one of the numbers 1 through 9. Rob (RV-6Q). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FAA data base
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Don't have immediate source but from memory and discussion with FAA... N [1-9][0-9][0-9][0-9 or A-Z][0-9 or A-Z] First position after N cannot be 0. Middle two [0-9]'s not required. And, I think some letters of alphabet eliminated to avoid confusion (Like I and O) Many if not most 3 position N numbers already taken. Listers with more correct info, please correct me where if I am wrong. James RV6AQ .. Rudder ---------- > From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> > To: rv-list > Subject: RV-List: FAA data base > Date: Sunday, January 18, 1998 4:41 PM > > > Listers, > > I was just playing with the "N" number search for a few minutes and > decided to take a serious look. However, when I looked at the FARs > pertaining to the "N" number, I couldn't find anything on what is legal to > use. I know there are a couple of numbers or letters not legal to use; > but, what is legal and in what orders. For example, I'm interested in > using a number that begins N0xxxx. Is it legal to have a leading zero > after the "N"? I guess I need a source for this info so I can play my > games with it and get my "N" number done since I'm planning to make > my first flights this summer. (Wishful thinking?) > > Jim Sears > RV-6A #22220 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net>
Subject: Need Advice: Alternator noise in headset if cold outside.
I have noticed this winter and last that my alternator produces a high pitch noise in my headset when it is cold outside. It becomes quieter as the plane warms up, but does not go away in the winter time. I am using one of VANS 30 AMP alternators. What the heck would cause this ? Why would it matter if it was cold outside ? If I buy a noise filter rated for 50 amps, do I have to install the filter right at the alternator positive terminal, or can I install the filter on the firewall so it is mounted well. I would then take the positive output line from the alternator to the noise filter on the firewall, and then in series to the bus. I noticed the boat store had a 3 inch by 3 inch filter rated to 70 AMPS and incased in epoxy for vibration for 50 dollars. Aircraft spruce had the aviation version for $110. I can't see any difference. Any recommendation as always are appreciated. Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com 77 hrs TT RV6A 345RV HS and VS completed RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Cowl, Type S (RV-6/6A)/Camlock Fasteners
Has anyone installed the type S cowl yet? If so, do you have any experiences, good or bad, to share? I am thinking about putting Camlock fasteners on the side joint, as well as across the top, as the type S cowl comes with the lip molded in already to do this. Does anyone have any suggestion as to spacing on the sides and type Camlocks to use? Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic ignitions
>Several days ago there was some discussion of the the two experimental >electric ignition sytems, Electroaire by Jeff Rose, and the Klaus Savior >system. I am leaning toward the Jeff Rose system because of its ease of >installation, and I met Jeff Rose at Oshkosh and he makes a very good case for >his product. Has anyone out there had problems with the Jeff Rose system ? Has >anyone using the system not realized the benefits that are supposed to occur? >Inquiring minds want to know. Regards, Mark G. #80087, waiting for finish kit. Mark, I have Jeff's E.I on my 150 hp RV-6. Overall, I'm satisfied. His manual could use a little work. Also, I'm not fond of the way the spark plug wires attach. I would prefer the conventional method. Perhaps he has changed this by now. I found that I could drop my idle speed a bit, my fuel effeciency improved 5-8%, the plugs seem to burn a bit cleaner and my gut feeling is that take off and climb are a bit better. The engine seems smoother. I really liked his mag replacement housing. Installation is easy and setting the timing, a breeze. Bob Skinner RV-6 390 hr. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: Ron Wilcox <rwilcox(at)qnet.com>
Subject: Re: Reserved Tail Number
Mailed it in on Dec 9, 1997 and received the confirmation back on Dec 24th. > >Ron: > >How log did it take the Feds to get back to you on the Reserve Tail Number. > >Tnx >Bill >KB2DU(at)AOL.COM > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HillJW <HillJW(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Golf ball dimples as performance enhancer?
Placed on maximum camber on top of wing, or on bottom? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: Keith Vasey <vasey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Hangers
At Centennial, Jeffco, and Aurora airports (Denver area) they use "Port-A-Ports". You can find them advertised in Trade-A-Plane. Fran Malczynski wrote: > > I have a friend who is looking for the address and phone number of a > comapny that manufactures aircraft "T' hangars. The name of the company > is "Port-to-Port". Has anyone ever heard of them? > > Thanks > > Fran Malczynski > Olcott, NY > RV6 (Wings) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Hangers
There are about 30 of these Port-A-Port T hangars at my home field - FRG Farmingdale Republic - Long Island NY, I am building my RV6 in my T hangar - while I park my Seneca 1 there also. Hope it helps. Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re:Wing Skin Question.
I put the Leading Edge Skin on today - no drilling just checking the fit. I would like to confirm the Skin overlaps the Wing tip by 1/2 Inch & sits flush on the W408, with the W623 Under it. I think I have it set up right. Thanks Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM RV6 #28167 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343 <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Chat Room
Those of us who use AOL seem to be left out if we want to use a chat room other than those provided by AOL. The chat room that (Toad) has set up thru the RC model area is not going to work for use who use AOL as our provider. If someone can tell me how to connect with this chat room thru AOL please enlighten the rest of us. In the mean time I am suggesting that those of you who use AOL go to People Connection and look for a chat room called special interests and at 8:00 pm each night I will set up a chat room call RV aircraft. AOL members lets give this a try. John Danielson Jdaniel343(at)AOL.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: John Bright <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Stiffeners
Gentlemen: > Be sure your "brake" has as tight of a hinge as you can find for it. I made the mistake of using door hinges.... Hardware stores have flat hinges... I think they're called gate hinges. John Bright Newport News, VA H:757-886-1161 W:757-875-7324 john.bright(at)bigfoot.com RV-6/6A empennage 25088 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR <JRWillJR(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Hangers
For a somewhat portable hanger that is reasonably priced ck out the SKYSHIELD hangers. I have no affiliation but have looked at them out front of the SKYSTAR booth at OSHKOSH. They seem very nice and they can hold more than one airplane-----T - Hangers make little sense unless they are nested for conserving space. For the same amount of material and a bit more slab you can build a square hanger with lots more room. At my airport we are able to long term lease the ground for 100$ per year. I built a 46X46 wood framed and metal covered hanger that is very nice for about 10,000$---I have a temp. door until I can afford or make a folding door. The SKYSHEILD stuff is cheaper and seems to be a good deal. Why a T -hanger?? hope this helps.JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Chat Room
I am an AOL user and have had no trouble accessing Toad's RVchat room. You need to download mIRC, and set it up in your Programs file. With this done, just log on to AOL, then go to the mIRC program and click, then type in down at the bottom: /server rco.iglobal.net 6667 and hit Enter. You will be connected to the right server. Then type in /join #rvchat. It's that simple. Jim Nice ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Builder Tip
The folowing idea occured to me this weekend while attaching the rear spars to the carry-through. I may be re-inventing the wheel, but I've not seen it posted here before: First, some background: When you slide your wings onto your fuselage, you may find that one or both of your wings have a slight forward sweep (My right wing exhibited a slight forward sweep.) If this happens, it is due to: 1. The 'tab' on the inboard end of the rear spar is too ling, or: 2. The 'fork' of the carry-through structure is too long. 3. Or both This tip pertains only to the case where the 'tab' on the inboard end of the rear spar is to long. You may be tempted to trim it a bit in order to achieve the correct fit. The problem is that you must drill a 5/16 hole in there, and if you trim the tab very much, you won't have the edge distance you need. OK, Here's the tip: If the tab on the inboard end of the spar is 'too long', think for a minute. It is hitting that little spacer you installed eons ago in the fork of the carry-though. There are no shear loads on that spacer. It is being held in compression. Sacrificing a little edge distance on the spacer is no problem. SO: Remove the spacer from the fork, finish installing the wing. When you are all done, you can file the side of the spacer until it fits back in the fork. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: AOL Chat Rm
Guys I set up an RV Builders Chat Rm under special Intrest's for all the AOL users that can't get into the other chat rm. Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1998
From: "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: Micromonitor interference solved!
>I believe that the main problem was that I installed a terminal block >for all of the shield termination's that was too far away from the monitor. I thought I would use this opportunity to pass on a construction technique that I learned from an avionics-tech friend. The use of a terminal block or other such device for all those shield wires is usually due to the difficulty of neatly dealing with all those shields in the multiple wires. Here's a way to handle them: For this example lets use two-conductor shielded wire. On a typical radio installation, you may have a dozen or so of them, and typically there is ONE pin on the radio's connector to which you are supposed to tie the shields from ALL those wires. Boy, can that be an ugly mess. I know. I've been there. Lets say that you are going to crimp a pin on each lead, and you have to do SOMETHING with those shields. 1. Strip the required amount of outer insulation off the two-conductor shielded wire. Usually this will be 1-2 inches. 2. Now unbraid the exposed portion of the shield, twist the shield strands together, and apply some solder to them so that they form one single lead (usually this lead is an eighth of an inch in diameter. 3. Cut the 'shield lead' formed in step 2 to about a quarter-inch long. 4. Cut a 2-inch length of 22ga single-conductor unshielded wire. Strip about 1/4-inch of insulation from each end. 5. Solder one end of the 22ga wire to the 'shield lead'. You now have a pigtail. 6. Cover the exposed solder joint with a short length of heat-shrink tubing. 7. If you are going to crimp pins onto the two regular conductors, do it now. 8. Now you are finished with the first two-conductor shielded wire. 9. Build the next two-conductor shielded wire in the same way as the first, EXCEPT: you will additionally solder the free end of the first's shield pigtail to the shield of the second. When you are finished, you will have all the shield leads all nicely dressed and daisy-chained together, with a minimum of exposed unshielded wire. You will also have just one shield lead to attach to the 'shield' pin on the radio's connector. I have the CHT & EGT leads from my uMonitor going to a 4-way switch (so I can display the temps of all four cylinders). Of course, you want to maintain the continuity of the shields all the way out to the probes. The above technique is just about the only way to do it well. Best Regards, Dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB flying soon. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Timbo" <htim(at)micron.net>
Subject: Re: Reserved Tail Number
Date: Jan 18, 1998
How does one go about reserving a tail number? Thanks, Timbo ---------- > Mailed it in on Dec 9, 1997 and received the confirmation back on Dec 24th. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Electronic ignitions
Date: Jan 18, 1998
> I have Jeff's E.I on my 150 hp RV-6. Overall, I'm satisfied. Bob: I am starting on a 6A fuselage. Need to decide on Carb or injection. HOw much does the EI conversion run? . What do I do to install? Would you recommend the change to EI? Don Jordan~~ 6A-wings~~ Arlington,Tx donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Wing Skin Question.
Date: Jan 18, 1998
>would like to confirm the Skin overlaps the Wing tip by 1/2 Inch & sits flush on the W408, with the W623 Under it. Yes, The LE inbrd rib( my # was 8a) is smaller so the W623 (piece of AL.) strip can attach the Leading edge section to the fuel tank. Its scary to drill, but calculate & mark the rivet, #8 screws, & all the overlaps & it will work out. Rib #6 in the tank will be back enogh to allow the tank to overlap the 623. The 1/2 on the tip ribs will be used to attach the fiberglass tips. I missed that on the HS & may get to start over. When you get it drilled & in the fixture, get bucking help around the nose. You are learning for the wonderful world of Prosealing for the tank. Don Jordan~~ 6A-wings~~ Arlington,Tx donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TPowers284 <TPowers284(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re:Wing Skin Question.
Yes, you are right Bill the leading edge skin sits flush on the W408, with the W623 under the skin. On my wings I installed the W623 flush with the rib flange and then I trimmed it after I finnished fitting the fuel tank. TOM POWERS RV6 25103 N5UA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Builder Tip
Date: Jan 18, 1998
>OK, Here's the tip: If the tab on the inboard end of the spar is 'too long', think >for a minute. It is hitting that little spacer you installed eons ago in the fork of >the carry-though. There are no shear loads on that spacer. It is being held in >compression. Sacrificing a little edge distance on the spacer is no problem. >SO: Remove the spacer from the fork, finish installing the wing. When you are >all done, you can file the side of the spacer until it fits back in the fork. > Regards, >Dave Barnhart Dave you are way ahead of me, but I would like to understand what your point is. Where does the "little spacer" come from? I saw the part on the drawings to trim the edge of the rear spar fitting, but I am waiting on that.. I am finishing my wing & havent put the F604 assy together yet. Does the spacer come in there? Don Jordan~~ 6A-wings~~ Arlington,Tx donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Electronic ignitions
From: rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr)
Mark, I have been using dual Electroair systems in my 0-360 powered RV4 for about 6 Mo. now . I am very happy with it and with the support that Jeff supplies. My engine always starts on the second blade, runs very smoothly, and idles down around 550 RPM. The biggest benefit might be that the engine can be leaned to peak EGT and even beyond before encountering any roughness. I could never do this before on a carburated engine. EGT's at 65% run about 1400-1450 when leaned to peak. Am unable to quote any fuel savings since this aircraft was flown from day one with this system but I know they are there. Biggest gains will occur when at altitude ( lower manifold pressures) Hope this helps, Regards, Bill RV4 N66WD t. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: oil pressure problem
Started my freshly rebuilt 0-320 today for the first time. The good news is that it started right up, the bad news is that after approx. 20 seconds there was no oil pressure. I had followed the recommendations of the engine builder: take out the plugs and crank the engine for 15 seconds at a time until you get oil pressure of 20psi, then put plugs back in and start. Should get normal oil pressure within a few seconds. I tried cranking the motor without the plugs but never got any oil pressure. My hangar partner did the same thing a month ago. He did not get any pressure reading while turning the engine over with the stater motor either. However he did get 80psi within a few seconds after the engine fired up. I disconnecterd the oil hose to the oil pressusre transducer and it appeared to be dry. Also removed the spin on oil filter and it showed no signs of oil either. Thoughts form various "experts" at the airport include: Possible that with the recommended 50 weight oil and the cool weather, the engine did not run long enough to get the thick stuff circulating. One guy suggested pumping oil back through the engine from the oil cooler hose , thereby priming the pump. Or maybe I have a problem in the oil sump, blockage at the pick-up point. Possibility of a failed oil pump? Would appreciate any thoughts/ advice from the group. Thanks, Walt RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: Additions to web site
Ever wondered what would happen if a suicidal bird decided to end it all by center-punching your beautiful RV canopy? RV6 pilot John Perri has first-hand knowledge of the excitement that a deranged pigeon can create. John has kindly submitted the true story along with incredible photos to my web site. This is a must read, especially for pilots who regularly fly in areas of bird concentration (which includes nearly all of us!). Point your browser to the following link for this incredible tale: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/bird.html ALSO.....several RV pilots have submitted photos and write-ups to the RV Photo Album. We are off to a great start toward having the best collection of RV photos on the web. However, we still need YOUR photos! To see how the Photo Album is developing, start at my home page and navigate to RV Photo Album: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/ Send your photos to: sbuc(at)traveller.com Thanks to those who have already sent in their photos, and thanks in advance for the photos yet to come! Sam Buchanan sbuc(at)traveller.com http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Hangers
<< The name of the company is "Port-to-Port" >> Port-to-Port is a Labor and Expense Charging concept. Port-a-Port is the hangar. I don't have a phone number, but they should be listed in TAP. They are the popular Green colored Ts that exist at virtually every airport on the planet. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Need Advice: Alternator noise in headset if cold outside.
<< I have noticed this winter and last that my alternator produces a high pitch noise in my headset when it is cold outside. It becomes quieter as the plane warms up, but does not go away in the winter time. I am using one of VANS 30 AMP alternators. >> Get a good >20,000 ufd 30-50VDC aluminum electrolytic capacitor with screw terminals and mount it well at the alternator. + side goes to alternator B- lead terminal, - side goes to ground. Bingo. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: FAA data base
<< Is it legal to have a leading zero after the "N"? I guess I need a source for this info so I can play my games with it and get my "N" number done since I'm planning to make my first flights this summer. (Wishful thinking?) >> Call them and ask. The number is in the Yeller Pages. I know they won't let you have N6ULDV8. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Cowl, Type S (RV-6/6A)/Camlock Fasteners
<< Does anyone have any suggestion as to spacing on the sides and type Camlocks to use? >> Les- I used the 27S3 (Stainless) Series Camlocs on about 4" centers across the top cowling joint. They use a 1/4" dia hole in the cowling placed at a distance of 7/16" from the cowling edge to the hole center. The 40S5 (Stainless) Series can handle more shear if strength is in question due to the use of a grommet (ferrule). They require a 15/32" dia hole in the cowling placed at a distance of 5/8" from the edge to the hole center. Check with ACS or Skybolt. They both carry them. Skybolt even has the adjustable depth receptacles so they only use a -3 stud. -GV N1GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 1998
Subject: Re: Hangers
<< Hangers make little sense unless they are nested for conserving space. >> I prefer the wooden ones. No more wire hangers, ever! -Mommy Dearest ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 1998
From: Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us>
Subject: FAA response to Reserve registration #
Bill, According to my records, I sent my request for N84N on March 11, 1997, and their response with reserved number was March 30, 1997. Not too bad. Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, just went onto the gear...Yeah, Yeah...! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com>
Subject: Baffles
I am making my own engine baffles as I have an engine that Van does not supply a kit for, I0-540. His baffle plans are somewhat helpful and suggests that you may use 2024 or 6061 allumiun. Now I was able to pick up some utilty type aluminun at a local supplier and it would appear to work. I have heat tested a scrap in the old wood stove along with a scrap of 2024 and they seem to melt at the same time, The material is "soft" easy to work and should not crack as easy as 2024, can any one see a problem with using this material? Thanks Tom Martin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Baffles
Hi Tom Wondering what RV you are installing the IO540 on. And if it is a TC version, and what problems you hae run into. Bill KB2DU(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Subject: Re: oil pressure problem
Walt, I purchased a standard household garden sprayer, filled it with 8 qts of oil and primed the entire system through the oil pressure port on the upper right side of the accessory case, this is the way George Orndorff did it in his video, could be your pump is not primed and you haven't turned the engine enough to distribute oil everywhere in the engine. This method primes everything including the oil pump I think -- Abby Razer Barbara Razer Molly the Dog and Chet Razer razer(at)midwest.net http://scribers.midwest.net/razer/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Frank(at)ammicro.com (Frank Cruz)
Subject: RV 8 Tail Kit and all the tools need FOR SALE
RV-8 tail kit with MAC electric trim 40% complete..All assembled sections alumiprep,alodined, and primed with Dupont Corlar. I would love to take this project to completion but sad reality of no time has hit.... Over $1800 in tools from Avery including...to name a few : CP 3X rivet gun pneumatic rivet squeezer manual rivet squeezer including 2 different yokes fluting pliers all the clecos you'll need in three sizes cleco pliers assorted cleco clamps rivet cutter drill bits counter sinkers and cage measuring tools bunking bars dies and sets hand riveter & dimpling tool air drill paint gun flanging tools Orndorf tapes etc etc $2700 takes everything including nice jig made.... > In S.Florida Frank Frank(at)ammicro.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: oil pressure problem
>Started my freshly rebuilt 0-320 today for the first time. The good news is >that it started right up, the bad news is that after approx. 20 seconds there >was no oil pressure. >I disconnecterd the oil hose to the oil pressusre transducer and it appeared >to be dry. Also removed the spin on oil filter and it showed no signs of oil >either. I have always filled the filter before installing it. >One guy suggested pumping oil back through the engine from the oil cooler >hose, thereby priming the pump. I use an "ACCU-SUMP" which is a race car part that stores oil under a piston held by air pressure allowing preoiling the engine before start, and it keeps oil pressure if the oil pickup ever gets unported and draws air. (I don't have this installed on the plane, I just used it to preoil the engine prior to first start.) >Or maybe I have a problem in the oil sump, blockage at the pick-up point. One can check for blocked pickup by pulling the large fitting out of the sump and inspecting the pickup tube and screen. (Remember to drain *ALL* the oil out before loosening this fitting...We had a rather humorous episode last summer when one of the local FBO mechanics took the screen out without draining the oil. 8 Quarts is a *LOT* of oil on the hangar floor!) >Possibility of a failed oil pump? If your engine was assembled properly it seems wildly unlikely that the oil pump has failed in less than 1 minute of operation. >Thanks, Walt RV-6A C.Razor sez..... Walt, I purchased a standard household garden sprayer, filled it with 8 qts of oil and primed the entire system through the oil pressure port on the upper right side of the accessory case, Probably works as good as the Accu-Sump, though might be messy if you're not careful. Bob Steward, A&P IA AA-1B N8978L AA-5A N1976L ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Baffles
<< I was able to pick up some utilty type aluminun at a local supplier and it would appear to work. I have heat tested a scrap in the old wood stove along with a scrap of 2024 and they seem to melt at the same time, The material is "soft" easy to work and should not crack as easy as 2024, can any one see a problem with using this material (for engine baffles)? >> Is the aluminum similar to 5052-T0? If so it should work fine. You will need to support it well in long areas of span because it will deflect more under vibration because of its lower strength, but it has high fatigue resistance. This deflection and the associated micromotion will work harden the material eventually and cracks can still develop. However, supporting it well at attach points to help minimize cold flow will go a long way to reducing this tendency. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Baffles
>I am making my own engine baffles as I have an engine that Van does not >supply a kit for, I0-540. His baffle plans are somewhat helpful and suggests >that you may use 2024 or 6061 allumiun. Now I was able to pick up some >utilty type aluminun at a local supplier and it would appear to work. I have >heat tested a scrap in the old wood stove along with a scrap of 2024 and >they seem to melt at the same time, The material is "soft" easy to work and >should not crack as easy as 2024, can any one see a problem with using this >material? >Thanks >Tom Martin Can you say "Work Hardening", sure I knew you could. "Surplus" aluminum or Tin Shop scrap is likely to be 3000 or 5000 series aluminum, and I would be concerned about cracking and breaking caused by work hardening through vibration when attached to your engine. Just because it is "soft" right now is no reason to count on it being "soft" after it has been installed and working for a while. I find that 0.040" 2024-T3 is excellent baffle material. I have some 10 year old baffles which I made during an engine OH that still serve well. No cracks, no problems, 10 years service. Bob Steward, A&P IA AA-1B N8978L AA-5A N1976L ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WstcttPrss <WstcttPrss(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Akzo primer
I've been using Akzo primer for the past couple of years... it was reccomended to me by Jerry Scott. My only problem is clean-up. I've not been able to find anything that can cut it. Acetone works... sort of... but I plug the nozzle on my gun or air-brush in pretty short order just the same. Any suggestions? Jeff Carpenter RV-6 Altadena, CA wstcttprss(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WstcttPrss <WstcttPrss(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Rudder Stiffeners
In a message dated 1/16/98 10:44:34 PM, you wrote: << With the last hole back this far, how am I meant to back rivet > it? The skin doesn't seem to bend back far enough to allow this.>> Be sure to cleco the skin to the work surface. You can pull the top of the skin up with one hand and back-rivet with the other. Jeff Carpenter RV-6 wstcttprss(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: oil pressure problem/ cheap inverted system/pre-oiler/ chatter
<< I use an "ACCU-SUMP" which is a race car part that stores oil under a piston held by air pressure allowing preoiling the engine before start, and it keeps oil pressure if the oil pickup ever gets unported and draws air. (I don't have this installed on the plane, I just used it to preoil the engine prior to first start.) >> I know of a fella who used the 3 qt model for an inverted system on his -4. Worked fine, he said, for limited neg g's -10-15 sec or so. I don't know how he had it plumbed into the oil system. It would be a nifty pre-oiler for general use, also, if a bit heavy to carry around all the time. As for the dry start: Sounds like the pump was dry, and couldn't get a prime. I suggest not running the thing until you can get pressure with the starter motor turning the engine. The pressure sprayer sounds like a good method, but make sure those connection are good. The 65 Contasaurus in my Champ used to need an oil pump prime from time to time- we would use a pump oiler at the pressure line to prime the pump. This fix was actually suggested by the Aeronca club! My students thought I was a bit eccentric (or just plain nuts!) when this would occur, and we fixed it in 2 min. with a train oiler. Of course, this engine (bottom end) was assembled circa 1946, so I suspect the pump had a touch more clearance than it really needed. This quirk disappeared when the engine was o/h'd with 1800 hrs SNEW on the bottom, and 600 hrs (but 25 yrs) on the top. It had 40 lbs of compression (plenty!) when it was decided to do the deed. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Steve Beckham <76623.1166(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Unsubscribe
Please unsubscribe 76623,1166(at)compuserve.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: right seat navigator needed
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Brian and I (-6A's)are in the planning stages of a trip to Sun-N-Fun and have a seat available. It would be nice to have someone along who has some cross country experience. We are leaving from Portland and would probably head towards LA before heading east so could possibly pick you up on the way. Please respond off-list. kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re:Wing Skin Question.
Hi Bill, > I put the Leading Edge Skin on today - no drilling just checking the fit. > I > would like to confirm the Skin overlaps the Wing tip by 1/2 Inch & sits > flush > on the W408, with the W623 Under it. Hope you're right, cause that's how I've done it. And I've just drilled the second one. Get Will Cretsinger's instructions... they're invaluable. My additional tips on fitting LE skins are at <http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunny2b.htm>. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Introduction
I've been reading the list for a while and decided to get involved. I have the RV6A empennage kit and my wing kit will arrive around March. I have Avery's tools and George's empennage and wing videos. I have studied the plans for weeks and lost track of how many times I've watched the videos. I should start building very soon. The information on the "List" has been very informational and appreciated. A few questions: (1) Hate to use the "P" word, but has anyone tried the Rustolem primer that is industrial grade. It's called "Hard Hat". (2) Has anyone thought about offsetting their HS to decrease the amount of right rudder on take off? If so, how much?? (3) I am thinking about buying my engine now because prices will be higher when I do need it. Any ideas on engine storage? It will probably be 3-4 years before first flight. (3) Anyone from Oklahoma??? Thanks, Jerry Calvert RV6A #25305 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: STANAIR <STANAIR(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Chat Room
How do you down load mIRC from aol ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pmays(at)Lexmark.com
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: RV4 tail-kit for sale
For Sale: RV4 tail-kit Horizontal,vertical and rudder done. excellent workmanship! Asking $950.00 . Phone # Days (606) 232-7125 , Nights (502) 868-0662. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rudder Stiffeners
From: lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald)
Date: Jan 19, 1998
>In a message dated 1/16/98 10:44:34 PM, you wrote: > ><< With the last hole back this far, how am I meant to back rivet >> it? The skin doesn't seem to bend back far enough to allow this.>> A builder told me that he: A. Clecoed the skin to a table with a string of rivets setting over a metal plate that was routed into the table. B. Placed a thin cover over the work area, and a 1/4 inch by 2 inch metal plate over that, extending over a rivet. C. Hammered on the metal plate plate, transferring the shock to the rivet. He told me the procedure worked fine. Larry Mac Donald ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Re: oil pressure problem/ cheap inverted system/pre-oiler/ chatter
> << I use an "ACCU-SUMP" which is a race car part that stores oil under a > piston held by air pressure allowing preoiling the engine before start, and [snip!] I would like to hear more about this set-up. Is this on an RV? How do you hook it up? Do you have to remove the cowl? I like the idea of a pre-oiler but don't want a permanently installed one, for weight reasons. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Micromonitor interference solved!
Date: Jan 18, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: David A. Barnhart <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> Date: Sunday, January 18, 1998 8:10 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Micromonitor interference solved! > >>I believe that the main problem was that I installed a terminal block >>for all of the shield termination's that was too far away from the monitor. > >I thought I would use this opportunity to pass on a construction technique >that I learned from an avionics-tech friend. > >The use of a terminal block or other such device for all those shield wires >is usually due to the difficulty of neatly dealing with all those shields >in the multiple wires. Here's a way to handle them: > >For this example lets use two-conductor shielded wire. On a typical radio >installation, you may have a dozen or so of them, and typically there is >ONE pin on the radio's connector to which you are supposed to tie the >shields from ALL those wires. Boy, can that be an ugly mess. I know. I've >been there. > >Lets say that you are going to crimp a pin on each lead, and you have to do >SOMETHING with those shields. > >1. Strip the required amount of outer insulation off the two-conductor >shielded wire. Usually this will be 1-2 inches. > >2. Now unbraid the exposed portion of the shield, twist the shield strands >together, and apply some solder to them so that they form one single lead >(usually this lead is an eighth of an inch in diameter. > >3. Cut the 'shield lead' formed in step 2 to about a quarter-inch long. > >4. Cut a 2-inch length of 22ga single-conductor unshielded wire. Strip >about 1/4-inch of insulation from each end. > >5. Solder one end of the 22ga wire to the 'shield lead'. You now have a >pigtail. > >6. Cover the exposed solder joint with a short length of heat-shrink tubing. > >7. If you are going to crimp pins onto the two regular conductors, do it now. > >8. Now you are finished with the first two-conductor shielded wire. > >9. Build the next two-conductor shielded wire in the same way as the first, >EXCEPT: you will additionally solder the free end of the first's shield >pigtail to the shield of the second. > >When you are finished, you will have all the shield leads all nicely >dressed and daisy-chained together, with a minimum of exposed unshielded >wire. You will also have just one shield lead to attach to the 'shield' >pin on the radio's connector. > >I have the CHT & EGT leads from my uMonitor going to a 4-way switch (so I >can display the temps of all four cylinders). Of course, you want to >maintain the continuity of the shields all the way out to the probes. The >above technique is just about the only way to do it well. > >Best Regards, >Dave Barnhart >rv-6 sn 23744 >N601DB >flying soon. > Just one added tip: Do keep the shield pigtails as short as possible. They are carrying RF from sources like the COM radio, strobes firing and ignition pulses. Unlike DC wiring, the length is critical to effect good shielding. The pigtails are in fact little antennas, so by all means keep them as short as possible! Dennis Persyk 6A Instrument Panel Barrington, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Subject: Re: Introduction
Hi, Stop reading and start working! Expect to make mistakes. Buying engine now is real big mistake, IMHO. First, 3 years of compound interest is serious money and you won't have storagge costs, insurance, possible deterioation etc etc. One thing you won't have to worry about is major improvements :-) You might even have some alternatives to the Lycoming by then. Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating canopy halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC > > (3) I am thinking about buying my engine now because prices will > be higher when I do need it. Any ideas on engine storage? It > will probably be 3-4 years before first flight. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KB2DU <KB2DU(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Sun & Fun
Gentlemen & Ladies Since we are all involved in one RV or the other maby we should take a head count of who is going to Sun & Fun and arrange a time & place to meet. It would be nice to see the faces of the other crazy's building Airplanes. I will be flying down in my Seneca with one passenger ( KOZINSKY(at)Symbol.com ) if there is any one in the NY NJ Area that need a ride E-Mail me at KB2DU @AOL>COM. Looking foward to meeting everyone Regards Bill Sivori ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eric.Henson(at)cendantmobility.com
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Introduction
Yes Sir, But I currently live in CA, does that count. What part of Ok? Let me know if I can be of any help. Hey, with all those gusty days, o/setting the rudder is the last of your problems. Welcome Eric Henson Dana Point, CA RV-6 finishing wings eric.henson(at)cendantmobility.com >>(3) Anyone from Oklahoma???<< ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Re: oil pressure problem
Rvator97 wrote: > Started my freshly rebuilt 0-320 today for the first time. The good news is > that it started right up, the bad news is that after approx. 20 seconds there > was no oil pressure. I had followed the recommendations of the engine builder: > take out the plugs and crank the engine for 15 seconds at a time until you get > oil pressure of 20psi, then put plugs back in and start. Should get normal oil > pressure within a few seconds. > I tried cranking the motor without the plugs but never got any oil pressure. > My hangar partner did the same thing a month ago. He did not get any pressure > reading while turning the engine over with the stater motor either. Walt, I cranked mine with the starter and got 40 psi immediately. The engine was never primed and had been unused for 14 years. I would prime the pump and use light weight oil, also helpful for break-in. John kitz N721JK Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WstcttPrss <WstcttPrss(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Introduction
In a message dated 1/19/98 2:15:29 PM, you wrote: <> In my brief time flying a 6-A, so little rudder was required at takeoff (or at any other time for that matter) that I couldn't imagine offsetting it. As for buying an engine 3-4 years in advance... why not put the money in the stock market and save yourself the storage fees. I doubt the price increases in the engine will outpace the market. And, if life should change and your kit takes longer than 3-4 years to complete... or if you should decide not to complete it... why having $20,000 sitting on the shelf gathering dust (or rust)? Jeff Carpenter RV-6 wstcttprss(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Dummy
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Someone from Texas sent me a message directly and I accidently deleted it. Please try again. Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Introduction
jerry calvert wrote: > > Has anyone thought about offsetting their HS to decrease the > amount of right rudder on take off? If so, how much?? > > I am thinking about buying my engine now because prices will > be higher when I do need it. Any ideas on engine storage? It > will probably be 3-4 years before first flight. > > > Thanks, > Jerry Calvert > RV6A #25305 > Hay Jerry I've got a good idea buy the engine now and you can store it on the front of my RV-6:-) As for off setting the HS I would not do it. Although there is a lot of P factor as you rotate and climb you will not even think about it after the first couple of flights. Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: oil pressure problem/ cheap inverted
system/pre-oiler/ chatter >> << I use an "ACCU-SUMP" which is a race car part that stores oil under a >> piston held by air pressure allowing preoiling the engine before start, and >[snip!] > >I would like to hear more about this set-up. Is this on an RV? How do >you hook it up? Do you have to remove the cowl? I like the idea of a >pre-oiler but don't want a permanently installed one, for weight >reasons. >Randall Henderson, RV-6 I got a couple off the list replies to this, so there seems to be some interest. I use this Accu-Sump to pre-oil newly built engines when I hang them on the airframe just prior to first start. All of the engines have had oil cooler lines to plumb into, so it has been a pretty simple job to remove the hose from the AN fitting at the accessory case and attach the aeroquip hose from the Accu-Sump. It has a ball valve in the line at the end of the cylinder, so I can pressurise the oil in the Accu-Sump and then open the valve at the appropriate time. I usually turn the Master on and see the oil pressure gauge read "X" pounds, thus verifying that all the passages have been filled. Accu-Sump is now empty, I shut the valve, turn off the Master, and re-connect the oil cooler hose, make last check of all items, and start engine for real. Oil pressure is instantaneous, and I don't even have to grind the starter to get OP. Lacking a pre-oiling device of some description I'd suggest packing the oil pump housing with white lithium grease on assembly. This is stiff enough to not run out, and yet is the type of lube often used to assemble engines, so it won't hurt anything to get a slug of it. If you have an external filter, I suggest removing the filter and filling with oil just before you're ready to crank it up. This prevents the engine from running "dry" for several seconds while your 1 quart filter fills up. With care, it can be a fairly clean operation to install a mostly full filter back on the accessory housing. I'd also agree with the idea of cranking the engine with the plugs out to get oil pressure, but it is *VERY BAD* for the magnetos to fire open plug wires. Either preground them when you remove the plugs, or leave the magneto switch in the "OFF" position if you have seperate start and mag switches. Bob Steward, A&P IA AA-1B N8978L AA-5A N1976L ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cafgef <Cafgef(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Baffles
<< The material is "soft" easy to work and should not crack as easy as 2024, can any one see a problem with using this material? >> Tom, Pretty much all aluminum alloys melt about 1050F. The "soft" alunimum that you got at the store will bend a lot easier than 2024 for fabrication BUT, it also has a lower fatigue strength. It will crack sooner in service. Vibration will get to it. Gene Francis, cafgef(at)aol.com, Boulder CO putting together the bottom cowl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford)
Subject: Re: Baffles
> >I am making my own engine baffles as I have an engine that Van does not >supply a kit for, I0-540. His baffle plans are somewhat helpful and suggests >that you may use 2024 or 6061 allumiun. Now I was able to pick up some >utilty type aluminun at a local supplier and it would appear to work. I have >heat tested a scrap in the old wood stove along with a scrap of 2024 and >they seem to melt at the same time, The material is "soft" easy to work and >should not crack as easy as 2024, can any one see a problem with using this >material? > >Thanks > >Tom Martin > Are you installing this IO540 in an RV? I'd like to see that!! > > Jon Elford RV6 #25201 Right Elevator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Introduction
>jerry calvert wrote: >> >> Has anyone thought about offsetting their HS to decrease the >> amount of right rudder on take off? If so, how much?? >As for off setting the HS I would not do it. Although there is a >lot of P factor as you rotate and climb you will not even think about >it after the first couple of flights. > >Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR >jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com > > My name's not jerry but I'm going to comment anyway, I looked into this and made a decision to offset my vertical stabilizer. I think offsetting the HS would be a bad idea :-). Almost all flying RVs have either offset or a permanent wedge on the rudder. There is a nice article about an RV4 (Dean Hall's from memory) in Sport Aviation that canvasses some of the issues. I thought that a trim system for the rudder was too much fiddle although others (Jim Cone for one) have done it. My aim was to have enough onset that I didn't need rudder input in the cruise. I offset the leading edge 1/4". One of the negatives is that this guarantees the fairing won't fit. Gil Alexander persuaded me that this was not a big issue (He lied, damn his soul) but I built one of my own and it is not too heavy (well a bit). I'm not flying yet so I can't tell you how it goes. Leo (I'm not really grumpy at Gil) Davies engine and radios in my 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com>
Subject: For Sale: RV6/6A Engine Cowl
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Anybody want to save some money? I have an untouched RV-6/6A engine cowl for sale, $400 plus shipping. If you live within two hours of the bay area in California I'll deliver it in exchange for a frosty Diet Coke. I'll even sing to it during the trip. Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME working on the sliding canopy... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction
Hal Kempthorne wrote: > > > Hi, > > Stop reading and start working! Expect to make mistakes. > > Buying engine now is real big mistake, IMHO. First, 3 years of compound > interest is serious money and you won't have storagge costs, insurance, possible > deterioation etc etc. > > One thing you won't have to worry about is major improvements :-) > You might even have some alternatives to the Lycoming by then. > > Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating canopy > halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC > > > > > (3) I am thinking about buying my engine now because prices will > > be higher when I do need it. Any ideas on engine storage? It > > will probably be 3-4 years before first flight. > > > Good advice Hal, maybe the Vortec V-6 will be a hot item by then!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Sun & Fun
KB2DU wrote: > > > Gentlemen & Ladies > > Since we are all involved in one RV or the other maby we should take a head > count of who is going to Sun & Fun and arrange a time & place to meet. It > would be nice to see the faces of the other crazy's building Airplanes. > > I will be flying down in my Seneca with one passenger ( KOZINSKY(at)Symbol.com ) > if there is any one in the NY NJ Area that need a ride E-Mail me at KB2DU > @AOL>COM. > > Looking foward to meeting everyone > > Regards > > Bill Sivori > I thought last year would be my "last year" of driving to S-N-F, I told myself I would either fly my -4 or walk! It's going to be a long walk to Lakeland, but I'll be there sat,sun, mon and tue AM.......walking back home tuesday afternoon. I look forward meeting a lot "RV-LISTERS" Craig Hiers RV-4 N143CH Tallahassee,FL Why is this taking so long ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Alternator Source
Gentlemen, I'm in the need of a 50/60amp alternator. I curently have Van's 35amp and it will not handle the loads I will have in the plane. Does someone have a replacement model I could purchase that would handle the load and not break the bank. I looked into a "Pelecan" but discovered that they are out of business. Appreciate your help, Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction
WstcttPrss wrote: > > > In a message dated 1/19/98 2:15:29 PM, you wrote: > > < amount of right rudder on take off? If so, how much? > > (3) I am thinking about buying my engine now because prices will > be higher when I do need it. Any ideas on engine storage? It > will probably be 3-4 years before first flight>> > > In my brief time flying a 6-A, so little rudder was required at takeoff (or at > any other time for that matter) that I couldn't imagine offsetting it. As for > buying an engine 3-4 years in advance... why not put the money in the stock > market and save yourself the storage fees. I doubt the price increases in the > engine will outpace the market. And, if life should change and your kit takes > longer than 3-4 years to complete... or if you should decide not to complete > it... why having $20,000 sitting on the shelf gathering dust (or rust)? > > Jeff Carpenter > RV-6 > wstcttprss(at)aol.com > Excellent advice Jeff, Thanks for the response. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)classic.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Akzo primer
I used MEK to clean up the BMS 10-11 Epoxy Primer made by AKZO. Seemed to work okay. I generally put the nozzle in it to soak between uses. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA I've been using Akzo primer for the past couple of years... it was reccomended to me by Jerry Scott. My only problem is clean-up. I've not been able to find anything that can cut it. Acetone works... sort of... but I plug the nozzle on my gun or air-brush in pretty short order just the same. Any suggestions? Jeff Carpenter RV-6 Altadena, CA wstcttprss(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Introduction
Leo wrote: > > I looked into this and made a decision to offset my vertical stabilizer. I > think offsetting the HS would be a bad idea :-). > Just checking to see if you were paying attention in class Leo:-) although I did have to raise the front of my HS about 1/16" > Almost all flying RVs have either offset or a permanent wedge on the > rudder. There is a nice article about an RV4 (Dean Hall's from memory) in > Sport Aviation that canvasses some of the issues. I thought that a trim > system for the rudder was too much fiddle although others (Jim Cone for > one) have done it. > > My aim was to have enough onset that I didn't need rudder input in the > cruise. I offset the leading edge 1/4". > I think getting the gear leg farings lined up has more to do with whether you need rudder trim at cruise or not. > -- Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: RV Classifieds
It was bound to happen..... You ask folks to submit photos of their planes, and sooner or later somebody is going to show up with an RV that needs a new home! So...........Sam Buchanan's RV6 Site now has a Classified Section: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/forsale.html Got sumthin' to sell, trade, borrow, beg, give away? Here is your chance to list it so the RV-List community can find it. And...........IT'S FREE! Send your listings to: sbuc(at)traveller.com Obviously, this is restricted to RV related stuff. (But then, when you're building an airplane, nearly EVERYTHING is RV-related....) Sam Buchanan sbuc(at)traveller.com http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 P.S. The RV Photo Album is growing quickly! Sent in your photos yet? http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/album_1.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WoodardRod <WoodardRod(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Re: For Sale: RV6/6A Engine Cowl
> Anybody want to save some money? I have an untouched RV-6/6A engine > cowl for sale, $400 plus shipping. If you live within two hours of the > bay area in California I'll deliver it in exchange for a frosty Diet > Coke. I'll even sing to it during the trip. > How much if you don't sing? Couldn't resist. Rod Woodard et his VS. He also built in electric rudder trim. He told me a few weeks ago that he actually needs a little more rudder offset, but he probably won't mess with doing it. As it stands now, he flies around with his rudder trim kicked in all the time... but he doesn't have the dreaded add-on trim tab that most Rv's have. :-) Dean told me not to mess with putting rudder trim in and suggested that I should check with the factory and other RV-8 builders to determine an appropriate VS offset when the time comes... pretty good advice, IMHO. Dean might have a little more torque than the average RV-4... he's installed an IO-360 that's putting out in excess of 200hp. It's pretty REAL impressive! Rod Woodard RV-8, #80033 Loveland, Colorado ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternator Source
<34C44E7E.356D(at)ix.netcom.com>
From: rv6a(at)Juno.com (Paul A. Rosales)
Date: Jan 20, 1998
>I'm in the need of a 50/60amp alternator. I curently have Van's 35amp >and it will not handle the loads I will have in the plane. Does >someone have a replacement model...... Hi Don, I know of several RVers using the same alternator found on Geo Metro/Suzuki/Sprint etc. It's small, 50 (or 55?) amp and has a built-in voltage regulator with simple 2-wire setup. And if you buy yours at Chief Auto/Kragen/Pep Boys etc., you can get a lifetime warranty too! Paul Rosales RV-6A N628PV Panel in progress ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave and/or Diane Irwin" <dirwin(at)ibm.net>
Subject: matching ammeter with alternater
Date: Jan 20, 1998
I am putting together the 'shopping list' for the panel on my RV-6A. I intend to use a 35 amp alternater and need to know if here is an problem with using a 30 amp ammeter with a 35 amp alternater. The ammeter has an external shunt. Dave Irwin 22607/C-GCRV dirwin(at)ibm.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com>
Subject: Re: Baffles
A Thanks for all the baffle replies. Not the engine is not going in an RV, it is a Harmon Rockett. Now as to the material, I had not thought about the work hardening and future cracking. Even with that I am going ahead with this material. I am making accurate patterns of the pieces and reproduction will not be a big problem. I am interested in the stuff as it is very easy to bump it out in areas where you have to get around things, like an engine mount. Tom martin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com>
Subject: Sun & Fun
Date: Jan 20, 1998
I will be taking a Beech Sierra from Roanoke to S N F. Not sure if I will land at Lakeland. Probably not because I need the flexibility to leave when needed. Will likely have two open seats if anyone is interested. Gary Fesenbek RV-6AQ, starboard wing flap brace Roanoke, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com>
Subject: Wing Jig
Date: Jan 20, 1998
I am pretty tight on space and have completed the tail and after my tech advisor drops by I will close the wings. My question is that as I am short on space, is it okay to ditch my H frame? Is there any reason to keep this a bit longer? I figure from here on out anything that I do with the wings will be on saw horses or better yet on the plane. Gary Fesenbek RV-6AQ, starboard wing flap brace Roanoke, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: For Sale: RV6/6A Engine Cowl
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: Paul and Janet Lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
>Anybody want to save some money? I have an untouched RV-6/6A engine >cowl for sale, $400 plus shipping. I, too, have a 6 cowl for sale - uninstalled/perfect condition for $300 in the mid- Michigan area. Paul 6A on gear _____________________________________ * The Leins * * 1555 South Brinton Road * * Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628 * * (517) 644-2451 * _____________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gasobek(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Off-set Vertical Stab.
On my -6, I built it to plans and in straight and level flight it flies with the ball centered. I spend more time in level flight than in climb. I would rather keep 1/2 rudder input in climb then need to use rudder on a cruise flight. Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFaile <DFaile(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Re: Reserved Tail Number
I do not usually comment on this system, but when I see so many questions about something that is so available, I think it is time. The package that the FAA FSDO (Flight Standards District Office) supplies to those who have identified themselves as homebuilders includes among other very useful information, a procedure for obtaining both any "N" number and your favorite "N" number. Try that first, then ask the list. Additionally, the "N" numbers you might search for on the several aviation data bases are not very accurate (specifically, there are a lot of "N" numbers that are reserved, especially low numbers used by the FAA). In my experience, the Oklahoma City Aircraft Registration Office has been extremely helpful in locating "N" numbers. I have received calls from them on a couple of occasions with suggestions. One of their suggestions was for an "N" number that was in the "dead" file but could not be reissued because the owner of the registered aircraft had not returned the (three year) registration certification card and the card was returned as "address unknown". I was able to track down the owner. The plane had been scrapped (wife ran over it with the car). The owner was willing to deregister the aircraft and I am hopefully getting the "N" number. So, please use the available information and resources. david faile CFII/A&P Christen Eagle since '82 RV6 started ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Re: Introduction
<3.0.1.16.19980120145742.33cfb302(at)koala.icn.su.oz.au>
From: bob.char.reeves(at)Juno.com (Robert L Reeves)
I offset the VS on my -4 and it came out nicely. But if I'm not mistaken, Van tried a bunch of different offsets on the -6 and it didn't seem to make any difference. Maybe because of the wider fuselage. I'd check with him before you offset a -6. Bob Reeves Building Bearhawk, Flying RV-4 Hidden River Airport, Sarasota, Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Orndorff G <OrndorffG(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Re: Alternator Source
Don, call B&C at 316-283-8000 they have some of the best equipment on the market.... George Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Jig
Date: Jan 20, 1998
---------- > From: Fesenbek, Gary <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RV-List: Wing Jig > Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 6:53 AM > > > > I am pretty tight on space and have completed the tail and after my tech > Gary, When you finish with the wings, you will no longer have a need for the wing jig ("H frame"). Give it to a new builder. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Re: Alternator Source
<< I'm in the need of a 50/60amp alternator. I curently have Van's 35amp and it will not handle the loads I will have in the plane. Does someone have a replacement model I could purchase that would handle the load and not break the bank. I looked into a "Pelecan" but discovered that they are out of business. >> I've heard that one of the Nippondenso alternators used on Hondas is a 55 Amp unit that is fairly light. You might want to take some quick measurements in the alternator area of your engine and schlep your present setup (including bracket) down to the local auto parts store for a perusal of their wares. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com>
Subject: Re: VS Offset
>> Almost all flying RVs have either offset or a permanent wedge on the >> rudder. There is a nice article about an RV4 (Dean Hall's from memory) in >> Sport Aviation that canvasses some of the issues. I thought that a trim >> system for the rudder was too much fiddle although others (Jim Cone for >> one) have done it. >> > >You're right, Dean Hall did offset his VS. He also built in electric rudder >trim. He told me a few weeks ago that he actually needs a little more rudder >offset, but he probably won't mess with doing it. As it stands now, he flies >around with his rudder trim kicked in all the time... but he doesn't have the >dreaded add-on trim tab that most Rv's have. :-) > >Dean might have a little more torque than the average RV-4... he's installed >an IO-360 that's putting out in excess of 200hp. It's pretty REAL impressive! Isn't the engine mount slightly offset already? I would caution anyone who might be considering offsetting the VS to first talk with Van's about it. A few years ago, their position was to not offset the VS. An offset VS will impact other parts of the aircraft, such as the fiberglass empenage fairing. For what it's worth, my personal experience is that with a well built RV, the offset VS may not be needed. I was either very lucky, or my anal retentive approach to building actually paid off because N506RV flew hands off the first time and did not need any trim changes (rudder, aileron or elevator). With the RV-4 mentioned above, I doubt that the engine mount offset from Van's was ever intended to properly compensate for an IO-360 putting out over 200hp. Just my $.02 Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying (and loving it :)))))) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: "robert l. wadsworth" <110014.1237(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: "Test Sit"
I will be attending SNF on Sunday only (I have a job with not much vacation). Wil be flying Sierra or Warrior from AHN to Lakeland. Would like to test sit an RV-6or -6A with slider canopy. Any volunteers? Reply offlist. Future Owner/Builder RV-6 Robert 110014.1237@compuserve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1998
Subject: Re: Introduction
From: ebundy(at)Juno.com (Ed Bundy)
Hi Jerry, welcome to the list. I won't use the "P" word. Rustoleum might be a bit too "cost effective" for this project. See the archives for LOTS of info. I don't think offsetting the HS will help much, but offsetting the VS might... ;-) You don't need to offset it, but on advise of local builders I offset mine 1/4" and it was perfect. Don't buy the engine now. A good mutual fund will keep up or beat the price increases, and storing an engine for 3-4 years is not very good for the engine. Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: polyester over epoxy?/RichReyn personal msg
My West Epoxy cans are giving out in the middle of my "Jim Cone" wing/fuse fairings; anyone know of any problems with completing the job with cheap, plentiful polyester auto body resin as long as I sand between layups for good adhesion to the cured epoxy? I'd hate to wait on UPS and pay the hazmat $$ for more epoxy from A/C Spruce! This is of course a non-structural part. Thanks. And would the gentleman flyinfg to SNF from ROA please hit me off-list? I'm in Clifton Forge, about 45 min away. RichReyn; I need your phone # off-list as I deleted it by accident! Bill Boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
Subject: Stick grips for sale
I still have a couple of stick grips for sale. These are real military surplus grips, somemewhat smaller than your average F-16 control, just right for an RV. They have a front trigger and left side PTT button, with good lengths of wire hooked to both. Since the thumb button is on the left side it makes them pretty much right hand drive, ideal for RV-3, -4 or -8 drivers, but not so good for RV-6 types (that's why I'm selling them). No hat switch, but the tops of the grips come off with a couple of screws so I'm sure one could be added. Price is $45 each. You can view a picture at <http://www.edt.com/homewing/classifieds.html> Email me PRIVATELY at randall(at)edt.com if interested. Randall Henderson, RV-6 randall(at)edt.com <http://www.edt.com/homewing> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-6 slider rollbar positioning...
Date: Jan 20, 1998
I am just starting on the sliding canopy, and have been referring to all the "sources" (i.e. plans, archives, FKJ's and Jim Cone's excellent canopy instructions, Van's $#%%$! instructions, Orndorff tapes, etc.). I clamped the rollbar and canopy frame into the "standard" position, and found that my 39.5" torso leaves only 1/2" head clearance to the canopy with NO seat cushion :( . Needless to say, I will need to incorporate the "enhanced height" modification. I'm trying to locate the rollbar as far forward as possible (without resorting to rebending/rewelding the base of the rollbar) to achieve maximum canopy "lift". The top fuselage longeron starts tapering inward in this area, and my observation is that the rollbar can be moved forward to the point where the forward rollbar base is even with the fuselage sides (so the top skin sits flush). All comments welcome, especially on raising the canopy in general. Also, how high does the top skin have to be where it ends at the rollbar base (I drilled my top skin on too far forward leaving it too short in this area, another reason I want to move the rollbar forward)? Rob (RV-6Q). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "TOMMY E. WALKER" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: rv-6a d-section wing skin
Date: Jan 20, 1998
at the skin joint on top of the spar flange, do you dimple the skin and c-sink the flange or just c-sink the skin? tommy walker 6-a wings twsurveyor(at)msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: What was that sound??
Listers: I just got off the phone with Bruce Bohannon. Guess what? We are all invited to participate in the bracket races (time to climb). The winner will have to make 5 runs to 1000 meters. All participants will make two runs (one qualifying, and one race). Sounds like a whole bunch of fun. I'll keep posting more info as I get it, or you can call Bruce at 281-992-8989. Check six! Mark ore epoxy from A/C Spruce! This is of course a non-structural part. Thanks. >> Sorry mate- you will have to spring for the good stuff. I did what you are thinking of doing a week ago. A call to Ol' Sam James confirmed what I had suspected: polyester is very lucky that it can stick to itself. It won't stick to epoxy, by any stretch of the imagination. Get enough stuff to finish your entire project. Just keep the two chemicals where they won't get too much moisture, and by all means, keep the resin warm- 80 F or so. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: hombilt(at)Juno.com
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Re: Stick grips for sale
Randall: I want one of your stick grips. Send me an address to mail you a check. Thanks Marvin Morrison Ph 512-898-2985 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Re: polyester over epoxy?/RichReyn personal msg
Don't do it. You can use epoxy over cured polyester, but polyester will not adhere to cured epoxy. Chris Brooks Murfreesboro,TN RV6, Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DenClay <DenClay(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Elevator travel
Greetings all, I just mounted the right elevator onto the HS as per the plans (2.25 in. between the spars). I have about 3in. downward travel at the trailing edge before the horn contacts the HS rear spar. Three in. tangent on about 15 in. radius is about 11.5 degrees of travel. Is this sufficient? Thank you oh wise ones. Dennis Clay RV-8 #473 Waitin for da wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: rv-6a d-section wing skin
twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com wrote: > at the skin joint on top of the spar flange, do you dimple the skin and > c-sink the flange or just c-sink the skin? Definitely DON'T countersink the skin. It's too thin (especially the .025" outboard skins). You could countersink the flange, I guess. However, I think it's best to dimple both skin and spar flange. At the ribs, and a couple of inaccessible places due to the stiffeners, you'll need to countersink. Check out Will Cretsinger's instructions at <http://www.flash.net/~gila/> -- they're indispensible. Also read my stuff at <http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunnytop.htm>. Frank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: paulr(at)colorado.cirrus.com (Paul Romano)
Subject: VS-Wiring
Howdy-- I will be ready to close the Vertical Stabilizer in another week or so, and would like some suggestions on how to handle the wiring for antenna/light--- 1. Is it worthwile to run a conduit, or 2. Hole(s) & grommet (one hole, 2 holes, etc.) 3. Other ideas... thanks! Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Re: Micromonitor interference solved!
<< The pigtails are in fact little antennas, so by all means keep them as short as possible! >> This is really good advice. Major aircraft manufacturers try to keep their pigtails no longer than 1 1/2 inches whenever possible. Jim Nice ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WmSH <WmSH(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: -6/6A Preview Plans
If anyone out there is contemplating purchasing the preview plans for the -6/6A, I have a new set (6wks old) for sale. First $40 gets them, and I'll pay shipping. If interested please e-mail off-line. Bill Hickman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: VS-Wiring
paulr(at)colorado.cirrus.com wrote: > I will be ready to close the Vertical Stabilizer in another > week or so, and would like some suggestions on how > to handle the wiring for antenna/light--- > > 1. Is it worthwile to run a conduit, or > 2. Hole(s) & grommet (one hole, 2 holes, etc.) I've setup my VS in case I ever want to put a strobe or antenna or whatever on top of it. What I did... "hole plus grommet"s through the 3 VS ribs aft of the front spar. "Hole plus grommet"s in the top and bottom VS ribs in front of the front spar. I've threaded a pull-string through all of these. My thinking is that if I was to put a strobe AND an antenna up on top of the VS, I'd like to run the wires separately so that the strobe doesn't interfere with the antenna. Having the spar as a ground plane in between would probably help. Any radio gurus want to confirm/deny that theory? Note that because there's only top and bottom ribs in front on the spar, you could always drill holes there later and be able to poke a wire through with a reasonable chance of success. However, I guess there's more chance of the wire flapping around inside there. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N95MF <N95MF(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: GAscolator
I was wondering if anyone could advise me as to which gascolator models available can handle the high pressure (25 psi) with an injected engine set up. ACS sells two models-one high dollar and a cheaper all metal "homebuilder" model. Any others worth considering? I am going to use a gascolator for sure, although I know many people don't. I would appreciate some advise from someone who is familiar with these models. Thanks. Mark G. #80087, waiting for finish kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBrowne714 <CBrowne714(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: Crummy Rivets
Having just started, I spent Saturday afternoon and the last few evenings practicing riveting 426 and 470 -4 and -3 rivets. I quickly reached the conclusion that, doubtless, everyone else has. A few lousy rivets are inevitable and drilling them out is tricky, at best. I have been advised by my "riveting instructor" from my EAA chapter who restores aircraft for a local museum that it is best to leave rivets alone unless they are really egregious. I am inclined to agree, but I have only driven 300 hundred or so. Given that there are about 13,000 these to do, I would like to set reasonable standard without being to anal - its an airplane, not a watch. One other observation. I thought my biggest problem would be smileys and I thought a rubber guard was a must. My instructor encouraged me to try the bare flush set and I found the rivets were seated tighter into the dimpled skin than with either the rubber guard or back riveting and that controlling the bucking bar was far more crucial to a good rivet. Is this picture correct or am I kidding myself? Chris Browne RV-6 Emp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale: RV6/6A Engine Cowl
I thought the Type S cowl from vans was $315???? > > >Anybody want to save some money? I have an untouched RV-6/6A engine >cowl for sale, $400 plus shipping. If you live within two hours of the >bay area in California I'll deliver it in exchange for a frosty Diet >Coke. I'll even sing to it during the trip. > >Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved) >RV-6AQME working on the sliding canopy... > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 20, 1998
Subject: shipping boxes
Listers: This does pertain to RV building, so please bear with me: If any of you have a connection with a cardboard box supplier, please email me off this list. I need a limited quantity of an apparently odd size to ship some RV associated supplies to customers. Check six! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1998
From: Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com>
Subject: Re: rv-6a d-section wing skin
>at the skin joint on top of the spar flange, do you dimple the skin and >c-sink the flange or just c-sink the skin? > >tommy walker I dimpled the skin and the spar flange both. Regards, Tom Velvick rv-6a wing tanks rver(at)caljet.com Phoenix, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Wisian" <av8r(at)flash.net>
Subject: IO540 RV-8
Date: Jan 20, 1998
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD25EB.BA4B9620" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD25EB.BA4B9620 Is it doable for reasonable? This is a serious inquiry to skilled, = knowledgeable, professional engineering/technical airplane types with an = interest in something challenging. This is directed to Barnard, Frederick, Harmon and Vans staff etc..I = wish to discuss building and RV-8 using an IO540 (ala Harmon Rocket) to = be completed in the Dallas area. If you can contribute to such a = project please contact me off line. Thanks to all RV-Listers, you keep our flying dreams alive. You also = give me a reason to get up every day and make peace with my computer = instead of wanting to choke it. HaHa! = =20 = Tails Up=20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD25EB.BA4B9620 http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
Is it doable for reasonable? This is a serious = inquiry to=20 skilled, knowledgeable, professional engineering/technical airplane = types with=20 an interest in something challenging.
This is directed to Barnard, Frederick, Harmon and = Vans staff=20 etc..I wish to discuss building and RV-8 using an IO540 (ala Harmon = Rocket) to=20 be completed in the Dallas area. If you can contribute=20 to     such a project  please contact me off=20 line.
 
Thanks to all RV-Listers, you keep our flying dreams = alive.=20 You also give me a reason to get up every day and make peace with my = computer=20 instead of wanting to choke it. HaHa!
          &nbs=


January 12, 1998 - January 20, 1998

RV-Archive.digest.vol-eb