RV-Archive.digest.vol-ej
March 07, 1998 - March 15, 1998
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV curing was Sealing/Caulking Rear Canopy Skirt |
MLaboyteau wrote:
snipped
I used a 50 year sealant/caulk that's white but dries clear,
> cleans up with water, non-toxic, supposed to be superior to everything else,
> paintable, etc. Will it ever dry? I don't know. But> I wonder, all sealants
and RTV's seem to rely on exposure to air to cure,
Mark,
RTVs rely on moisture in the air (humidity) and heat to cure. Once the
surface "skins" this process slows down but does continue. If you are in
an area of low temperatures/humidity, the process may take a month in
thick areas. Have faith, it will cure.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 inventoried wing kit today
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
I am trying to decide on a vendor for the seat cushions in my -6. I
have noticed DJ's seats are very high in quality, but pricey. Can
anyone tell me if the Orndorf seats are comparable in quality? I have
not seen any yet and would like to know if anyone has had experience
with them.
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Network Consultant, MCSE
ImageMax, Inc.
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 200 hp IO-360 |
Dear Jerry,
Consider contacting Monty Barrette at Barrette Performance engines in
Tulsa, OK for your 200 Lycoming. I am using Monty for mine and am very
pleased. Monty has and excellent reputation for honesty and integrety
etc. He has done a lot of the 200 Lycomings for the aerobatic crowd and
they like him. Telephone 918 835 1089.
Dick Martin
Green Bay, Wis.
RV8 80124 fuselage almost complete, received finish kit, looks good
----------
> From: Jerry C Paterson <jerryinak(at)juno.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 200 hp IO-360
> Date: Thursday, March 05, 1998 9:12 PM
>
>
> I am considering ordering an IO-360 A1B6 from Aero Sport in Kamloops B.C.
> Would be interested in how happy previous customers have been.
>
> Jerry Paterson
> Anchorage AK
> RV-8 80479
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | less_drag(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft painting/Spanwise strips |
<3.0.1.32.19980306200025.006ebcb8(at)pop.mindspring.com>
writes:
>
>
(Snip)
>Adding gloss and "depth" to the paint. If you have several colors, and
>they are striped over a base like we normally do on the planes, then
clear
>will allow you (with proper technique) to flush the edges so that it is
>smooth. This is especially critical when the stripes are span wise.
The
>little 0.003" lip of each stripe is a perfect trip for the boundary
layer,
>and will kill lift. This results in a poor climbing, strange stalling
plane.
(Snip)
>Bob Steward, A&P IA
>AA-1B N8978L
>AA-5A N1976L
Hi All,
Try applying any spanwise strip aft of the spanwise leading edge skin
joint.
The airflow has already been disturbed by the spanwise skin joint.
Additionally, by using the spanwise skin joint as the forward side of a
spanwise strip, it hides the skin joint and rivet line.
(Just a pointer that a Douglas aerodynamist, Bob Smith, told me.)
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
I'm torn with which one to build, any of you guy's & or gal's have an opinion
on the pro & cons of each I would love to hear them.
Thanks
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings in Jigs & Starting Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire splicing |
If you would prefer a connector, see this previous posting of mine from the
archives. I have since bought some and they are as advertised and will do
the job, and they are not heavy. I'm going to use them (actually, one of
my next tasks)
...Gil (connect it) Alexander
******** from the archives ***********
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 1995 16:47:13 -0800
From: gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander)
Subject: Re: RV-List: Suitable CONNECTORs for electric TRIM
>If you are not looking for a waterproof CONNECTOR, it's hard to beat the
>old square, white Molex CONNECTOR. I've used them in aircraft for
>years. They are cheap and reliable (they are NOT reliable if they are
>constantly being connected and disconnected though.) I would recommend
>the style that uses the .092-diameter pins instead of the smaller
>.063-diameter pins.
>
>If you are looking for something waterproof, the only thing I've found
>are those mil-spec Cannon plugs, but they are heavy. Cannon makes a
>lighter plastic variety, but they are not waterproof.
RV-guys.....
Just checked my Newark catalog. Mil-spec CONNECTORs are $100+ .. WOW!!
But ....
They Newark sells "Conxall" brand weathertight 'Mini-Con-X Cable End
CONNECTORs' that are designed for outdoor use. Mated, the plug/socket
combo. is about 2.7 inches long by 0.7 inch diameter, but it's made of
high-impact molded material, so should not be heavy. The length dimension
includes the "weathertight rubber grommet/seal" and strain relief. They
have gold-plated solder cup connections, so no special crimping tools are
needed, just solder the wire to the CONNECTOR.
For the Pacific Northwet, I believe these CONNECTORs would be better than
the Molex ones, and more weatherproof than the plastic DIN CONNECTORs
supplied by MAC.
For 6 contacts, the part numbers are:
stock# Conxall part# description price ($)
89F4115 6282-6SG-3XX 6 contact cable end socket conn. 6.69
93F7231 8282-6PG-3XX 6 contact cable-cable pin conn. 3.42
A panel mount version is also made:
8F4135 7282-6PG-300 6 contact panel mount socket conn. 5.80
They are a normal stock item (200+ at the local warehouse).
Newark is a supplier of electronic components, etc., and has
distributors all over the US, and has a good, 2+ inch thick catalog. Call
and get their catalog since they have a $25 minimum charge :^)
Catalog requests go to 1-800-298-3133 ext 48, and the catalog lists
all of the regional offices.
... hope this helps ..... Gil Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
RV6A, #20701
PS .. I haven't bought these CONNECTORs, but after finding them in the
catalog, I think I will use them for all of my electric TRIM cable
hook-ups. The micro version of the above CONNECTOR at 0.540 inch diam. (2
or 3 contacts) should make a good CONNECTOR for the PTT switch in the
removeable passengers control stick.
********* end of archive posting ************
>
>
><< What is the recommended method of splicing the small trim servo wires to
> lengthen them? >>
>If you find you need to splice these wires, the recommended method would
>probably be the installation of moisture proof splices. These are sold by
>Ray-Chem, and should be available through an electrical supply store. Be
sure
>to ask about equiptment necessary to make the splices also. They are strong,
>and the moisture seal will make them last.
>Jim Nice
>RV6A
>
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
Newsletter Editors: Permission given to re-print if
credit is given and a courtesy copy is sent to me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
I'm ready to rivet the skin to my VS, and in the manual and the Orndorf
video it mentions running pull cords so I can pull wire through later.
Why would I run wire through my VS? I have the rudder light option, but
do those wires run through the VS or the lower fuse? Should I run these
cords if I don't plan on putting any lights on the VS? If I run them, is
there any special type of grommets I should use?
Moe Colontonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition by Empire Development |
Hi Will,
> Does anyone have an electronic ignition from Empire Development Corp of
> Redondo Beach, CA, installed and operating?
I don't have any information on that, but I have been trying to contact
them for some time regarding their capacitave fuel sender advertised at
http://users.aol.com/chanik/ed/kk.htm (surely these must be the same
outfits?)
Despite numerous email attempts to chanik(at)aol.com I have never had a
single response.
HTH,
Frank.
(About to start tanks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire splicing |
>But ....
>
>They Newark sells "Conxall" brand weathertight 'Mini-Con-X Cable End
>CONNECTORs' that are designed for outdoor use. Mated, the plug/socket
>combo. is about 2.7 inches long by 0.7 inch diameter, but it's made of
>high-impact molded material, so should not be heavy. The length
dimension
>includes the "weathertight rubber grommet/seal" and strain relief.
They
>have gold-plated solder cup connections, so no special crimping tools
are
>needed, just solder the wire to the CONNECTOR.
>
Gents,
The Conxall connectors are indeed very good. I use them...by the
HUNDREDS in my job at Intel. They are used on environment control
sensors for easy removal for calibration of the transmitter. They take a
healthy push and turn to lock in place, so a bulkhead installation needs
to be FIRMLY mounted so it doesn't turn when you're trying to plug the
ends together. This is the only "flaw" that I can see. But, once
connected, they do NOT come apart. I may use them in my RV, but am not
even close to doing any cockpit wiring yet.
Best regards,
Brian Denk
RV-8 #379
finally closed the left wing.
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wires in the VS |
Moe
You can use the Snap Rings that Van Sells as a grommet or your local Home
Depot
in the Elecrical Isle will have rubber grommet's in a few diffrent sizes. Run
your Drag Line through the grommet and tie them off, or attach something
larger that the hole so dont lose it.
Some real light poly line - Like what they have at the Home Depot to ie things
to you car with, makes a great drag line, I always pull and leave in the drag
line - if you change something or want to run another line at a future date,
the Drag is the way to go, even on the wings etc.
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT 8127 <PILOT8127(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
BSivori,
Build it with the wheel on the back! If you ain't a " tailwheel-pilot" , you
ain't !
Gary &5AJ RV-3 (160)
w/240TT, slider.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wires in the VS |
You only need to run wire through your VS if you are going to put an
antenna or beacon strobe up there.
PatK - RV-6A
MoeJoe wrote:
>
> Why would I run wire through my VS?
That's one reason why I decided on the t/w version. Also, let's face it,
it looks better and is easier to build :>)
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6 (notice the A is conspicuously missing)
%$&@ canopy frame
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HillJW <HillJW(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 200 hp IO-360 |
Dick:
I saw your post on the IO-360. As I have the same engine (ready to M.O.H.) to
be put in an 8, I am wondering what compression ratio you plan on using?
Concern about the future of av-gas has me wondering whether to go with
standard 8.7:1, rather than some higher ratio????
Thanks.
hilljw(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wires in the VS |
>I'm ready to rivet the skin to my VS, and in the manual and the Orndorf
>video it mentions running pull cords so I can pull wire through later.
>Why would I run wire through my VS? I have the rudder light option, but
>do those wires run through the VS or the lower fuse? Should I run these
>cords if I don't plan on putting any lights on the VS? If I run them, is
>there any special type of grommets I should use?
>
>Moe Colontonio
>
Moe,
I have wires running up to the top of my VS as the strobe and nav antenna
are located there. There is no reason to run drag to the top of the VS if
you don't plan on putting anything there. I didn't put any snap bushings or
drag in my VS during construction. It was very easy to add later. The hole
in the leading edge center rib was drilled with a unibit on a 12 inch
extension. Unless you are sure that you will be installing equipment on top
of the VS, I would just close the VS and not worry about it.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
>
>
>I'm torn with which one to build, any of you guy's & or gal's have an
opinion
>on the pro & cons of each I would love to hear them.
>
I am assuming you are not currently flying tailwheel airplanes, If you are
you already know the advantages and disadvantages of each. If you are
looking for technical differences between the 2 models, I am told there are
few and they really don't matter. What is important is you end up with an
airplane that is right for you.
My opinion is to build the Tailwheel airplane. That is for me however, you
have to do what is right for you. If you enjoy challenges and learning new
things. If you feel you have, at least, average flying ability and are
willing invest the effort in aquiring this new skill then go for it! You
will have a better airplane (my opinion) and more fun with it.
If on the other hand you are conservative and cautious and want to take the
route of lowest risk, you may be happier with a nose wheel.
A good way to resolve this, again assuming you are not flying t/w aircraft,
is go find an instructor you trust, take some dual and ask his opinion. A
good instructor should be able to give you some guidance in this area.
What ever you do, don't be swayed by the blowhards on either side of this
issue that will tell you, 1, Tailwheel pilots have the "right stuff" and on
water to fly them. or 2. If you don't fly a tailwheel airplane, you are
some kind of wimpy second rate slacker. These are both BS. You are
building this airplane for you, not the hanger flyers at the coffee shop who
seldom, if ever leave the ground. Do what is right for you! Either way, to
quote a recent first flyer on this list, "You are gonna LOVE this airplane."
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal ATP CFI MEI
dougr(at)petroblend.com (my old netins.net is no longer valid)
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. John Cocker" <jcocker(at)istar.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight!!! |
Congratulations, and many more happy hours.
John
oug Rozendaal >>
I aggree with Doug. Thanks Doug for telling (BSivori(at)AOL.COM N929RV) the
truth and not giving him a lot of B.S.
Its up to BSivori to decide which is right for him.
Go get som tailwheel time then decide. Try the tailwheel plane in different
wind conditions (with an instructor of course).
Good luck
John L. Danielson
JLD AirCraft Tools
Jdaniel343(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
----------
> From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
>
> What ever you do, don't be swayed by the blowhards on either side of
this
> issue that will tell you, 1, Tailwheel pilots have the "right stuff" and
on
> water to fly them. or 2. If you don't fly a tailwheel airplane, you are
> some kind of wimpy second rate slacker. These are both BS. You are
> building this airplane for you, not the hanger flyers at the coffee shop
who
I wholeheartedly agree. I also love these debates almost as much as opening
up a new airplane magazine. Just can't put it down for awhile. At my
airfield, we have both nose and tail wheel a/c. The latest to fly was an
example built by a man who flew 4s and previously F104s etc. and was a
died-in-the-wool, nothing but, t/w pilot who thought the 6 was "a fat pig".
Well, guess what, he built a 6A, "for the wife" and he loves it ! He is now
telling us how great the landings are and how unlike a t/w, the landing is
over once the nose wheel sets down. Etc.
I remember during flight school seeing 17 yr old girls flying tail draggers
and we thought that was normal. Besides, if a girl can do
that..........Taildraggers offer a different dimension and it is kind of
fun to have that mindset ingrained when you climb into one that they take
off differently and land differently, but honest to God when you are used
to it, it is like riding a bike, I'm 64 and I still can do both.....just
have fun and enjoy..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)eagle.ais.net> |
| Subject: | Need Advice On Larger Alternator, Fit Problems etc. |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD4A8F.757B1020"
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I have an RV6A with Vans 180 HP engine and a constant speed prop. I =
currently have Vans 30 AMP alternator which is not enough for my =
electrical load, and as of late, has developed an alternator whine in my =
headset.=20
I am contemplating putting a 60 AMP B&C alternator in but have heard =
some people say it will not fit because the constant speed prop governor =
line ( that comes with Vans engine ) is in the way.
Is there anybody out there who can verify this one way or the other, or =
give me some alternatives for more amperage that will fit.
Thanks in advance for those who take the time to respond.
Scott Johnson
rvgasj(at)mcs.com
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD4A8F.757B1020
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
I have an RV6A with Vans 180 HP engine and a =
constant speed=20
prop. I currently have Vans 30 AMP alternator which is not enough =
for my=20
electrical load, and as of late, has developed an alternator whine in my =
headset.
I am contemplating putting a 60 AMP B&C =
alternator in but=20
have heard some people say it will not fit because the constant speed =
prop=20
governor line ( that comes with Vans engine ) is in the =
way.
Is there anybody out there who can verify this one =
way or the=20
other, or give me some alternatives for more amperage that will=20
fit.
Thanks in advance for those who take the time to=20
respond.
Scott Johnson
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD4A8F.757B1020--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
> >
> >
> >I'm torn with which one to build, any of you guy's & or gal's have an
> opinion
> >on the pro & cons of each I would love to hear them.
> >
Who wants an airplane with a training wheel on the front???
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVHI <RVHI(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
Seems to be a tailwheel day. I went for the 6A. I really think the nose
wheel version looks better on the ground. The 6 looks better in the air. I'm
always on the ground when I look at them. My plane will be primarily for
cross country in comfort travel. Why bother with sometimes tricky landings.
Last tailwheel aircraft I trained in, it hit an aircraft tow vehicle, the
pilot couldn't see it over the nose. ( I was not in it at the time) Of course
the 6 does have visability over the nose. After the 6A is completed I really
wouldn't mind a RV8 tail dragger.
L. Adamson -- RV6A fusalage 0360 CS prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
>Who wants an airplane with a training wheel on the front???
USAF, USN, Army, etc.....
United, Northwest, Delta, etc....
Most fortune 500 companies that fly airplanes....
Most Inc 500 companies that fly airplanes....
Most people who buy and fly General Aviation airplanes....
To name a few......
As I said earlier, A tailwheel airplane is right for me and it might be
right for you. That does not mean that it is right for everyone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
I'm about to place a couple of huge orders so that I can start with
the completion of things. However, a couple of items have me
stumped. Maybe you can give some good hints. :-)
1) I need a couple of fuel gauges; but, I don't want the expensive
ones that work with the old S/W senders I got with my wings. What
do you guys recommend? I already have a couple of off brands that
work; but, I'd like something new. What works?
2) I also need a reasonably priced fuel pressure sender. The UMA
one sorta scares me based upon what I've read here and there. Any
suggestions?
I should be placing an orders for about $6K within a week or so. I'm
hoping that will get me close to having everything to finish out except
for the glass, paint, hoses, etc. I'm running out of money! :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A #22220
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343 <JDaniel343(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
>Who wants an airplane with a training wheel on the front???
USAF, USN, Army, etc.....
United, Northwest, Delta, etc....
Most fortune 500 companies that fly airplanes....
Most Inc 500 companies that fly airplanes....
Most people who buy and fly General Aviation airplanes....
>>
Way to tell him Doug!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD4AA7.CE6A2AA0"
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I am fitting my wing tips on my RV-4 and have a question. I am working =
on the left tip. It fits fine except for one small problem. There is a =
slight droop in the trailing edge of the tip when referenced to the =
aileron trailing edge. It is slight (about 1/8 inch), but it looks kind =
of sloppy. BTW, the entire length of the tip back to that point is =
perfectly flat with the top wing skin. Is this a common problem? Is =
there a reasonable fix (destroy tip, start over, ect.)?
Joe
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+ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT color+AD0AIw-000000 size+AD0-2+AD4-I am fitting my =
wing tips on my RV-4 and have a=20
question.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- I am working on the left tip.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- It =
fits fine except for one=20
small problem.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- There is a slight droop in the trailing =
edge of the tip=20
when referenced to the aileron trailing edge.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- It is slight =
(about 1/8=20
inch), but it looks kind of sloppy.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- BTW, the entire length =
of the tip back=20
to that point is perfectly flat with the top wing skin.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- Is =
this a common=20
problem?+ACY-nbsp+ADs- Is there a reasonable fix (destroy tip, start =
over,=20
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<3502E889.5AE3(at)greenapple.com>
43-44,47,49-50,52-53,55,59,62,66-68,71-81
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Who wants an airplane with a training wheel on the front???
>John Kitz
>N721JK
>Ohio
>
>
>
Apparently a lot of people since they out sell the rear wheeled model by
a slim margin.
I don't want to get involved in what this could become (I'm more of a
pilot than you are debate).
As was already eloquently stated by Doug this is a personal decisions
that should be decided by factual differences, not personal opinion
information. Especially from people that haven't flown a number of hours
in both models (or even worse, haven't completed there own RV yet but
think that such and such looks better, etc.)
I have flown both so will add a couple of comments that may be helpful in
making a decisions.
With no prior tail dragger experience your insurance premiums will be
higher than for the RV-6A until you get an accumulation of hours
(assuming you will be carrying total hull coverage)
The RV-6 built as a basic airplane (wood prop) is a little more aft C.G.
when empty than an equivalent 6A which would be "slightly" more limiting
in useful C.G. range (with constant speed prop it's not really a factor).
The RV-6A is heavier than an RV-6 equipped the same by about 15 lbs.
The RV-6 is more adapted to using rough strips (because it is a tail
dragger).
The RV-6A can probably take off and land shorter (by an RV pilot with
average skills) than a equivalently equipped RV-6 (also flown by an RV
pilot of average skills). Not that this is really an issue with the
great performance that all RV's have.
Flame all you want, but this is true.
Resale value tends to run slightly higher for 6A's. (There is a lot
larger pilot/buyer market that is qualified in tricycle airplanes only)
If you do not already have some tail dragger time in your book you will
have to get some time logged ahead of time if you intend on doing any of
the test flying.
With the 6A most pilots that are current find that an hour or 2 and they
feel comfortable to go fly there own.
Bottom line is that it is great there is both models to fit the personal
preferences of most pilots.
Side Bar - On the subject of the macho thing, and many (not all) of the
tail dragger pilots talking down to the nose dragger pilots.
I had a 6A that I built for my self because most of my flight time had
been in trikes. Also it got my wife even more involved in the flying
than she would have been otherwise because of all the stuff she always
heard from those high class tail dragger pilots.
She would taxi the airplane and also do takeoffs, but may not have tried
with a tail dragger. (after our family began to grow in size we never
got back to her training and got her finished up on learning landings).
As for the macho pilots? I can't even count the # of times that we had a
breakfast fly out scheduled to somewhere, and on that morning the wind
would be blowing hard. I would go ahead and go, and have no trouble at
all, but I would eat breakfast by my self.
One would say he over slept, another wasn't feeling well, etc, etc.
I have landed RV-6A's in 20 mph direct cross winds. This of course is
also possible with the tail dragger, but I'll bet it would take more
attention of most RV pilots than it does with the 6A.
Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. Finally Sold!
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
The nose wheel vs tail wheel debate is sorta like discussing religion with
someone: both participants in the discussion are convinced they are right
and can't understand WHY the other guy doesn't see things the way he does.
With little jabs thrown in about training wheels and chest hair, cross wind
landings and visibility. The truth is, there is no right or wrong type of
airplane (religion) to have as long as you have one. And it has to be one
that you will be comfortable living with.
You WILL be able to fly either one and, if you do things right, fly it well.
Some pilots think they could NEVER learn to fly a taildragger. That's OK;
it may not be right, because you can, but it is OK to think that. And the
-A should be your airplane. There are pilots that have several thousand
hours in taildragging airplanes and couldn't stand the thought of dragging
the nose of an airplane around all the time. That's OK too. And if you
have always WANTED to learn to fly a taildragger, or liked the time you have
in one, maybe now is the time to build one.
LOOK at the two different types. Which one would you rather be the proud
owner of? For a long time. Some people think the taildraggers look the
best, others think it's the -A types. What is your brain (heart) telling you?
You CAN fly a taildragger, if you want. With a little training (which we
should all do anyway), you will get comfortable with them. And like it.
And be good at it. It is one of those "increasing your skills to match the
airplane's potential" deals. Are they better "in the rough"? Yes, to a
certain extent. However, one of the most popular bush planes in Alaska is a
Cessna 206, a nose dragger. The places you would take the taildragger, you
could probably get the nose dragger in, so that is a sortof issue. What
ABOUT crosswinds? The nose dragger probably has a small advantage there,
but taildraggers can be taught (by your developed skills) to land in hellish
crosswinds.
SO: this doesn't help. It just gives you some more things to think about.
Which airplane do you WANT to have (not which SHOULD you have)? Build that
one. Either one you build, you are gonna LOVE your new airplane.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flyin', doin' the taildraggin' thang
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<< Who wants an airplane with a training wheel on the front??? >>
If you know someone giving one away, I DO!!!
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
Hi Joe,
Its a common problem with the RV wingtips. All you have to do is run a
saw cut along the entire wingtip trailing edge, This will allow you to
clamp it flat in relation to the aileron and to then re epoxy the
trailing edge together. If your worried about the trailing edge
separating at a later date add 1 layer of cloth on the inside of the
wingtip trailing edge. This has not been necessary of any of the tips we
have fixed over here.
Cheers
John Morrissey
RV4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Rex [SMTP:jfr(at)ix.netcom.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 09, 1998 7:35 AM
> To: rvlist(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: wing tips
>
> I am fitting my wing tips on my RV-4 and have a question. I am
> working on the left tip. It fits fine except for one small problem.
> There is a slight droop in the trailing edge of the tip when
> referenced to the aileron trailing edge. It is slight (about 1/8
> inch), but it looks kind of sloppy. BTW, the entire length of the tip
> back to that point is perfectly flat with the top wing skin. Is this
> a common problem? Is there a reasonable fix (destroy tip, start over,
> ect.)?
>
> Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | vlemasters(at)midamer.net (Vern Lemasters) |
| Subject: | Another RV is Born! |
At times I wandered if it would ever happen but on Friday Afternoon
(3-6-98) I flew N97VL for her maiden flight. I really wasn't prepared to
fly her yet so I didn't get any real performance figures or anything else
that I should have done. I stayed close to the airport and did some slow
flight and just got used to flying it a little bit. Didn't notice any out
of rig condition or anything but I didn't let go of the controls either. I
don't remember having to hold rudder or aileron pressure though. We flew
for about 45 minutes but then the only problem of the flight forced me to
land. I turned the heater on and it would not shut off! I didn't have time
to check it out but when I landed (with fresh air on) it was 103' in the
cockpit! I believe the hot water heater will keep the cabin toasty.
It is a much better airplane than I am a pilot. I am definitely going have
to get smoother on the controls. It is fun to fly but will take some
getting used to the light controls.
Keep at it guys, there's nothing else like flying something you built with
your own two hands!
Vern Lemasters
N97VL
V-6 powered RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Description |
While looking through an on-line list of used engines, several were
described as "disassembled time expired". Can somebody tell me what that
means? What would be the procedures, requirements, costs, etc., to bring
an engine such as this to airworthiness?
The discussion on gascolators has been interesting. I was not sure what
exactly one was until I looked it up in the Aircraft Spruce catalogue. I
laughed when I found them. There was such a device on my fathers 1936
Minneapolis model KTA, 1951 John Deere G, and 1964 Ford 2000 (all farm
tractors). We always called them "sediment bowls". The thought occured
to me that I never remember one of our tractors failing due to fuel
contamination.
Martin Shorman
Lawton, IA
RV-6 Builder "Gonna-be"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Toad <toad(at)favorites.com> |
| Subject: | Wing on vans website |
Hello
Not wanting to bring up the primer thing again, I noticed on vans
website the wing there with a grey primer on it, what primer is that?
I want to go with that just for color, I do not want to reopen the
primer war again, just want to know what primer is that grey stuff and
where do I get it?
thnx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
Thanks to all that replied to my question, I did not think it would start
that type of traffic on the net here. I have been flying for 3 years out of
Republic Airport in Farmingdale Long Island, the flight school I am a product
of has no tail wheel aircraft. And I have come to learn no flight school on
the field has a tail wheel aircraft.
So I guess I have to start looking at one of the other local fields and see
who has a Tail Dragger for rent for some dual. I could not even find a CFII
at Republic that has Tail Dragger Time,
I own a Piper Seneca ( Nose Wheel ) funny funny - so I think Doug put it well,
Get some tail dragger time & then make an educated decision.
Thanks again to Doug & Scott - and all those that replied.
Bill Sivori
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings & Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Hinge |
Jon,
An electrical ring connector can be used by crimping it to the hinge
pin after removing the blue insulator. I used a 16-14 connector. Bend the
ring back toward the trim tab. Drill a very small hole in the trim tab
flange. Run a lock wire throught the connector ring and hole. If the
crimp loosens the connector will capture the pin and the lock wire will
hold it in place. Looks like this will work, although I haven't flight
tested it yet.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
John
RV6A, finishing kit started, Chevy V-6 out of the machine shop this week.
----------
> From: Jon Elford <jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Trim Tab Hinge
> Date: Friday, March 06, 1998 11:26 PM
>
>
> Thanks to all who responded about my trim tab hinge pin. I haven't yet
done
> anything, but as usual I now have so many ideas that I will spend more
time
> deciding what to do than actually doing it!
>
> Jon Elford
> RV6 #25201
> Finishing up empennage-
> WINGS ON THE WAY!!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing on vans website |
>
> Hello
> Not wanting to bring up the primer thing again, I noticed on vans
> website the wing there with a grey primer on it, what primer is that?
> I want to go with that just for color, I do not want to reopen the
> primer war again, just want to know what primer is that grey stuff and
> where do I get it?
> thnx
My guess is that the primer isn't gray; it's green. It's probably
Sherwin Williams wash primer applied so thinly that it just looks gray
because you see the metal right through the primer.
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>I am fitting my wing tips.. It fits fine except for one small problem.
There >is a slight droop in the trailing edge of the tip when referenced to
the >aileron trailing edge.
Hey, Joe: Common problem. It takes splitting the trailing edge and doing
whatever modification necessary to get the aileron and tip trailing edges to
match up. And then, sometimes, they won't.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Formative Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV is Born! |
Congradulations Vern, I cant wait to hear that big V-6 roaring overhead.
--
Abby Razer
Barbara Razer
Molly the Dog and
Chet Razer
razer(at)midwest.net
http://scribers.midwest.net/razer/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing on vans website |
>
>Hello
>Not wanting to bring up the primer thing again, I noticed on vans
>website the wing there with a grey primer on it, what primer is that?
>I want to go with that just for color, I do not want to reopen the
>primer war again, just want to know what primer is that grey stuff and
>where do I get it?
>thnx
I have some Marhyde self etching primer that is grey...but don't know if
this is what's shown on the Website picture. I bought a can of it at my
local auto paint supply store and it's quite nice for small jobs when I
don't want to mix up some Variprime and deal with the cleanup. It takes
a while to dry, but is really tough stuff once it does. I think it is
available in a two-part mix for spray gun use as well.
Hope this helps.
Brian Denk
RV-8 #379
working on the right wing, when I'm not toying around with my new
Lowrance Airmap GPS!!
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing on vans website |
Jack,
The Sherman William's Primer I used (1 Can Only did not care for it at all it
pealed )
finished in a dark grey. There is also another manufacture Mar-Hyde Self
etching metal primer, that I used on the entire project to date, it dries to a
light grey and according to the manufacture will hold up real well. I never
had any pealing with the Mar-Hyde. It is available in spray cans & quarts &
gallons if you are using a spray gun.
Most important is a good filterd mask, dont be a macho man and stand in the
fumes.
The self etching primers are not the best thing to be breathing in & out.
Good Luck
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings & Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 200 hp IO-360 |
Dear HillJW,
I am going to use the 10:l pistons and dual electronic ignition..As far as
using low octane fuel and or auto fuel, the IO360 series engines are all to
high of compression for that fuel. As far as the future of Avgas, I think
that it will change eventually but not in the near future. If and when it
does change, I will confront that situation at that time.
----------
> From: HillJW <HillJW(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 200 hp IO-360
> Date: Sunday, March 08, 1998 8:33 AM
>
>
> Dick:
> I saw your post on the IO-360. As I have the same engine (ready to
M.O.H.) to
> be put in an 8, I am wondering what compression ratio you plan on using?
> Concern about the future of av-gas has me wondering whether to go with
> standard 8.7:1, rather than some higher ratio????
> Thanks.
> hilljw(at)aol.com
>
>
>
e Development Corp of
> > Redondo Beach, CA, installed and operating?
>
> I don't have any information on that, but I have been trying to contact
> them for some time regarding their capacitave fuel sender advertised at
> http://users.aol.com/chanik/ed/kk.htm (surely these must be the same
> outfits?)
>
> Despite numerous email attempts to chanik(at)aol.com I have never had a
> single response.
>
> HTH,
>
> Frank.
> (About to start tanks)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Another RV is Born! |
>vlemasters(at)midamer.net (Vern Lemasters) writes:
>At times I wandered if it would ever happen but on Friday Afternoon
>(3-6-98) I flew N97VL for her maiden flight
Congratulations Vern:
Sometime you need to post a piece on the engine/prop & how much she
weights. Amazing how the flight plan gets changed with a new bird.
Don Jordan~~ 6A-wings~~ Arlington,Tx
donspawn(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Parts Rebuilder in Oregon |
| From: | m.talley(at)juno.com (Michael L Talley) |
Any of you listers in Oregon heard of a company named "ECI" and have a
phone number, city or address for them? I looked in Trade-A-Plane and
didn't find them.
Mike Talley Arlington, WA finishing RV-6 wings and having to major a C-85
to keep my RV-0 (C-140) in the air.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing on vans website |
Dear Toad,
I don't know what van uses, however I found that the color of the Marhyde
Self Etching primer sold in most auto parts stores is a very attractive
color grey. I am using it on the cockpit area of my RV8 and it looks good.
I wanted some enamel for my control sticks etc. with a harder finish and
just went to an auto paint store and had some Centari with gloss modifier
added mixed to match the Marhyde grey and it has worked out very well.
Dick Martin
RV8 80124 fuselage almost done
----------
> From: Toad <toad(at)favorites.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing on vans website
> Date: Sunday, March 08, 1998 6:08 PM
>
>
> Hello
> Not wanting to bring up the primer thing again, I noticed on vans
> website the wing there with a grey primer on it, what primer is that?
> I want to go with that just for color, I do not want to reopen the
> primer war again, just want to know what primer is that grey stuff and
> where do I get it?
> thnx
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
I fly out of a 1900' foot grass/dirt/mud strip that boasts bumps, holes and soon
- frost heaves.
I'll take a tailwheel aircraft any day to prevent plowing pea furrows with my prop.
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Me
'46 Aeronca 11AC
'9? RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BStobbe <coro_01(at)weblabs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing on vans website |
>Hello
>Not wanting to bring up the primer thing again, I noticed on vans
>website the wing there with a grey primer on it, what primer is that?
>I want to go with that just for color, I do not want to reopen the
>primer war again, just want to know what primer is that grey stuff and
>where do I get it?
Marhyde 5111 is a self-etching grey primer, but I don't know if that is
what was used on the wing in question. You can get the stuff from
automotive paint suppliers and it comes in spray cans, which makes it
really convenient for small jobs (I actually did my entire airframe with
the stuff using the spray cans).
Bruce Stobbe
canopy frame
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice On Larger Alternator, Fit Problems etc. |
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
> I have an RV6A with Vans 180 HP engine and a constant speed prop. I
> currently have Vans 30 AMP alternator which is not enough for my
> electrical load, and as of late, has developed an alternator whine in
> my headset.
>
> I am contemplating putting a 60 AMP B&C alternator in but have heard
> some people say it will not fit because the constant speed prop
> governor line ( that comes with Vans engine ) is in the way.
>
> Is there anybody out there who can verify this one way or the other,
> or give me some alternatives for more amperage that will fit.
>
> Thanks in advance for those who take the time to respond.
>
> Scott Johnson
> rvgasj(at)mcs.com
Scott:
Not true!!! I purchased the 60amp alternator from B&C and it mounting
hardware and have no problem in it's mounting. I too have a C/S and an
O-360.
Good Luck
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
JDaniel343 wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >Who wants an airplane with a training wheel on the front???
>
>
> USAF, USN, Army, etc.....
> United, Northwest, Delta, etc....
> Most fortune 500 companies that fly airplanes....
> Most Inc 500 companies that fly airplanes....
> Most people who buy and fly General Aviation airplanes....
> >>
> Way to tell him Doug!!!
Sure but this is not the choice of the pilot.. It's the choice of the
manufacturer. Maybe your too young to remenber the DC-3 owned by all
airlines and so on and so on..
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV is Born! |
Congrats Vern!! I know just how you feel; mine, (RV-6A) was born last
Saturday, Feb.28. Made flight # 4 & 5 today. Total time is now 4 hours. It's
a wonderful feeling, isn't it?!
Walt Hastings N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing on vans website |
>
>Not wanting to bring up the primer thing again, I noticed on vans
>website the wing there with a grey primer on it, what primer is that?
The gray primer is the green Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash Primer P60G2
and the Wash Primer Catalyst Reducer R7K44. This primer is green when
mixed per the instructions at 1 part primer to 1.5 parts catalyst. When
mixed 1 part primer to 2.0 or 2.5 parts catalyst, it is gray.
An advantage to the 1 to 2.0 or 2.5 formula is that it sprays more
uniformly. The 1 to 1.5 formula has a tendency to orange peel.
At 1.0 primer to 2.5 catalyst, the color is pewter.
****************************
Bob Haan
Home 503-579-2729
Mobile 503-789-3439
Office 503-579-3675
Mobile 503-720-1132
FAX 503-579-4458
mailto:bhaan(at)easystreet.com
****************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Parts Rebuilder in Oregon |
>Any of you listers in Oregon heard of a company named "ECI" and have a
>phone number, city or address for them? I looked in Trade-A-Plane and
>didn't find them.
>Mike Talley Arlington, WA finishing RV-6 wings and having to major a C-85
>to keep my RV-0 (C-140) in the air.
ECI (AKA Engine Components Inc.) Page 148 in a recent TAP.
1-800-ECI-2-FLY
http://www.eci2fly.com
info(at)eci2fly.com
They have locations in Texas, Florida, and Oregon
They did my crank at OH, they made my new "Classic Cast" cylinders. No
complaints, yet.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
Vanremog wrote:
>
> To me the 6 looks like a stubby polliwog and the 6A a sleek swan.
>
> JMO,
> -GV
>
Not taking sides because I think everyone should build what they like
but here in RV country the RV-6A's are known as VanGrummans,:-) just
don't call it that in front of Van. As far as it looking like a
polliwog or a sleek swan I think it all depends on the paint scheme.JMO
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting Ailerons, RV-8 |
I am ready to mount the ailerons onto my wings, which are setting on tables,
top side down, I have not closed the bottom skins yet, of course. My question
is, what is the procedure to mount the ailerons? The manual simply says; "The
position of the ailerons is determined when the A-406-407 brackets are pinned
to the W-414-413 brackets" My assumption is that I attach the two brackets
together with bolts or temporary means, using the hole locations shown on the
plans, then using the aileron template, hang the aileron in positon, then
drill the bracket to the aileron. Then the flaps are matched to the ailerons.
Is this correct? Any input appreciated.
Von Alexander
RV-8 #544
Independence, Or.
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVHI <RVHI(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<< >Who wants an airplane with a training wheel on the front???
>
>
> USAF, USN, Army, etc.....
> United, Northwest, Delta, etc....
> Most fortune 500 companies that fly airplanes....
> Most Inc 500 companies that fly airplanes....
> Most people who buy and fly General Aviation airplanes....
> >>
> Way to tell him Doug!!!
Sure but this is not the choice of the pilot.. It's the choice of the
manufacturer. Maybe your too young to remenber the DC-3 owned by all
airlines and so on and so on..
>>
While pondering this question of 6 or 6A which went on for months, I happend
to ask my uncle who flew for the Air Force since the end of World War II &
ended with the KC 135 Tanker ( Boing 707). His reply was the nose gear cured
all the problems caused by the tail wheel. Go with the nose gear he said, so I
did.
Now I'm imagining doing a 3 point stalled landing in the cockpit of a
tail wheel 747.
L. Adamson RV6A fusalage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice On Larger Alternator, Fit Problems |
etc.
>I have an RV6A with Vans 180 HP engine and a constant speed prop. I
currently have Vans 30 AMP alternator which is not enough for my electrical
load, and as of late, has developed an alternator whine in my headset.
>
>I am contemplating putting a 60 AMP B&C alternator in but have heard some
people say it will not fit because the constant speed prop governor line (
that comes with Vans engine ) is in the way.
>
>Is there anybody out there who can verify this one way or the other, or
give me some alternatives for more amperage that will fit.
>
>Thanks in advance for those who take the time to respond.
>
>Scott Johnson
>rvgasj(at)mcs.com
>
Scott,
I have the B&C alternator (L60) and a new 180 with C/S from Van's. There is
no conflict.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. Denman" <mikedenman(at)earthlink.net> |
RV6's have a problem in the floor between the firewall and the spar with
the 3/32 rivets working loose that hold the floor to .063 angle
stiffeners. (apparently it is a bigger problem for those who countersunk
the floor rivets rather than those who dimpled) A past issue of the
RVator suggested a fix. What was it? And those people on the list that
have used it and have subsequently flown a lot...what has been the
result? Does it stay fixed?
Mike Denman
RV6
"Pay attention to the details, Sweat the small shit!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy William Benedict <jbenedic(at)up.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
You're right on about the impossibility of determining which is better.
But, believe it or not, there is a perfectly simple solution to the
madness:
Just built one of each. Say a RV-6A and a RV-4/8, or a RV-6 and a
RV-8A. Your choice of the combo. That way, if you're concerned about
nose-wheeler, or if you just want to be a sport/fighter pilot around the
local area, take the taildragger, etc...it works!!!
Good luck,
Jeremy [but hey, what do I know, I haven't built/don't own an RV ;-) ]
jbenedic(at)up.edu
BTW: Yeah, my suggestion wasn't really intended to be practical. Oh, well.
StdDisc: Even if I had an employer, I still wouldn't be speaking for
him or her.
> The nose wheel vs tail wheel debate is sorta like discussing religion with
> someone: both participants in the discussion are convinced they are right
> and can't understand WHY the other guy doesn't see things the way he does.
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy William Benedict <jbenedic(at)up.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing on vans website |
Actually, the wing pictured on Van's web site belongs to Don Mack.
A larger version of it can be found on his web site at:
http://www.flash.net/~donmack/rv6a/wing_leading_edge_cleco.html
I don't know if Don is on the list [or if he even knows that picture is of
his airplane :-)], but I'm 99.999% sure he could tell you what primer it
is. Try him at: donmack(at)flash.net
Best wishes,
Jeremy [I just happened to notice it was Don's while surfing tonight ;-) ]
jbenedic(at)up.edu
StdDisc: Same as last message.
> >Not wanting to bring up the primer thing again, I noticed on vans
> >website the wing there with a grey primer on it, what primer is that?
________________________________________________________________________________
What is the best way to repair a rib flange? I have found the
guidance in AC 43.13 a little confusing. I have replaced several ribs
due to bad edge distances, but I'm told that they are repairable.
Chris Browne
-6 emp
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
>
> To me the 6 looks like a stubby polliwog and the 6A a sleek swan.
>
> JMO,
> -GV
----------
Can you say "Flying Milkstool"? Just borrowing a term from a time gone by.
RV-4 forever!
JMO
Jerry Isler
RV4 # 1070
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
You wrote:
I have been flying for 3 years out of Republic Airport in Farmingdale
Long Island, the flight school I am a product of has no tail wheel
aircraft. And I have come to learn no flight school on the field has a
tail wheel aircraft.
So I guess I have to start looking at one of the other local fields and
see who has a Tail Dragger for rent for some dual. I could not even find
a CFII at Republic that has Tail Dragger Time,
End Quote
If you stand back and re read that quote, It looks like it is making a
very loud statement.
Cecil Hatfield
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Rear seat rudder pedals |
Fellow Listers:
I'm working on my RV-4 fuselage and am now debating the merits of rear seat
rudder pedals. I have flown in RV-4s with and without them and am curious
as to other's opinions as to whether they are worth the effort. I do intend
to install the footwells which I know does greatly add to the rear
passenger's comfort.
Comments??
Doug
*******************************************
Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver <A20driver(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
Yuk!!! The 3's for me..:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <scott.vanartsdalen(at)lmco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<< >Who wants an airplane with a training wheel on the front???
>
>
> USAF, USN, Army, etc.....
> United, Northwest, Delta, etc....
> Most fortune 500 companies that fly airplanes....
> Most Inc 500 companies that fly airplanes....
> Most people who buy and fly General Aviation airplanes....
> >>
> Way to tell him Doug!!!
Sure but this is not the choice of the pilot.. It's the choice of
the
manufacturer. Maybe your too young to remenber the DC-3 owned by
all
airlines and so on and so on..
>>
While pondering this question of 6 or 6A which went on for months, I
happend
to ask my uncle who flew for the Air Force since the end of World
War II &
ended with the KC 135 Tanker ( Boing 707). His reply was the nose
gear cured
all the problems caused by the tail wheel. Go with the nose gear he
said, so I
did.
Now I'm imagining doing a 3 point stalled landing in the
cockpit of a
tail wheel 747.
L. Adamson RV6A fusalage
You've almost hit on the answer here. I have about 700 hours tailwheel time
and used to be part of the
he-man-tailwheel-pilots-are-just-that-much-better-than-the-rest-of-you-mere-
mortals crowd. I still fly conventional geared aircraft and probably always
will. I like the looks and, frankly, I'm more comfortable in them.
You have to look at the mission of the airplane just the way the designer of
the above airplanes did. Obviously a conventional geared 747 makes no sense
whatsoever. On the flip side, however, a tri-geared bush plane make no
sense to me. What is the mission profile of your airplane? Are you mostly
a Sunday flyer that flies from airport to airport on breakfast runs? Are
you a dyed-in-the-wool bush pilot that will be operating out of short rough
strips? Are you somewhere in between?
If I were you, I'd think about how often I was going to land off airport.
How rough are the strips you are going to be going into... If you intend
to fly mostly to paved airports with the occasional trip to the well
manicured grass field then tri-gear is just fine. If you intend to land
off-airport more often, and the strips are other than pristine, manicured
lawns, I'd go with the conventional gear.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Systems and Network Administrator
Lockheed Martin Enterprise Information Systems
408-743-2224 Pager: 1-800-225-0256 Pin 635776
"the essence of character is doing what's
right, when nobody's looking." -- J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose Rivets |
I had the worst case scenario: countersunk and 3/32 rivets. Also the
180 HP engine with C/S, which is purported to be the worst offender. I
went back and added 1/8 universal head rivets between each 3/32 rivet on
the floor stiffeners and on the bottom firewall front row. 160 hours so
far with no observed looe rivets.
Good luck.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat rudder pedals |
<< I'm working on my RV-4 fuselage and am now debating the merits of rear seat
rudder pedals. >>
Totally useless. The GIB cant land from back there (I have once and it was a
total pain for me and the front "passenger" who had to squat down in the seat
so I could see) nor does the GIB need rudders for most sportsman aerobatics
(do you really want the back seater doing hardcore acro?). Any flying from
the back is mostly a courtesy to the poor sob stuck back there. Youll find
that your passengers rest their feet on them which will drive you crazy.
Other then the above I have no feelings either way :-)
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Lervold <RLervold(at)compuserve.com> |
Listers:
I've now begun the task of putting the wing skeleton together aft of the
main spar. The manual reminds me to plan for grommets or conduit for both
the pitot tubes and the wingtip wiring. It recommends the lower forward
corner of the main wing ribs. A few questions:
-Install two sets of grommets, one above the other, one for pitot tubes,
one for wingtip wiring?
-Distances from edges for locations?
-What tye of grommets, plastic snap-in or rubber?
-Can wiring be put through the same grommets as the pitot tubes?
-Is conduit a better way to go?
-Are there any other plumbing/wiring considerations to allow for behind the
main spar?
-Is there anything to allow room for other than the aileron rods &
bellcrank?
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
-8 #80500, starting wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
>Resale value tends to run slightly higher for 6A's. (There is a lot
>larger pilot/buyer market that is qualified in tricycle airplanes only)
>Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. Finally Sold!
Scott,
I was wondering if you could share some of the trials and tribulations of
selling your RV. What buyers are looking for. The effect of
engine,equipment, etc. Who is interested in buying Homebuilts? This kind of
info.
Your observations on the 6 vs 6a issue mirror my ruminations on the
subject. I do think the 6 is better looking with the swept back main gear.
I wish Van had given the 8 more of a swept look. The Harmon Rocket is by
far the best looking RV type plane.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: capacitance fuel level |
| From: | Kate and/or Jack <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> |
Information about capacitance fuel level systems:
http://airstuff.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose/Tail Chatter |
>>I have been flying for 3 years out of Republic Airport in Farmingdale
>>Long Island, the flight school I am a product of has no tail wheel
>>aircraft. And I have come to learn no flight school on the field has a
>>tail wheel aircraft. I could not even find a CFII at Republic that has
Tail >>Dragger Time.....
>
>If you stand back and re read that quote, It looks like it is making a
>very loud statement.
(Yikes: is THIS going to generate some mail!!)
Yes: that there are a whole lot of pilots/instructors out there who are
satisfied with the status quo, the easiest way to go, building hours, not
exploring aviation for what it has to offer. My guess would also be that
there are few if any pilots/instructors at Republic Airport who have built
or flown their own airplane. Or even flown IN one. Or landed off airport.
Or done any aerobatics (tail wheel airplanes all). That there are a whole
lot of really cool airplanes those pilots/instructors will never be able to
fly because of what, not haveing any tailwheel time? That's a pretty lame
excuse to not be involved in their own profession. THAT'S the loud
statement I hear.
It is an indicator of changes I have been seeing in aviation over the past
5-10 years that I just don't like. Time was when you landed a differert
airplane (J-3 Cub, RV, etc.) at an airport, the hardest thing about getting
a fast turn around was getting the people away from your airplane. Now: No
one seems that interested anymore. Or just "too cool" to come over and
visit, or what ever it is. Could I tell you stories. It is not good for
aviation. If there is a flight school at a major airport that does NOT
teach in tailwheel aircraft, or even know where to send you for some, it
makes me wonder what their real intent is; perhaps to pump out airline
captains, not pilots. Aviation is in BIG trouble right now and there are
many different reasons. Part of it is an attitude that has come on like
clouds of a warm front over the very people that attitude is going to have
an affect on. Which just happens to be all of us.
Thats what I hear.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing plumbing |
> It recommends the lower forward corner of the main wing ribs. A few
questions:
>-Install two sets of grommets, one above the other, one for pitot
>tubes,
>one for wingtip wiring?
Randy, I am working on a 6. An 8 could be different. but
you can use grommets & let the wires hang..or. plastic tubing .or. rigid
pipe.
After you get the ribs clecoed on, find your best area that does not
violate something else. I put mine 2" from the main spar & had bucking
bar problems for the double row in the main spar flange. Once the run is
nailed you can use a greenlee punch set or a unibit to cut the holes.
>-Distances from edges for locations?
Some where aft of the main spar & forward of the bellcranck.
>-What tye of grommets, plastic snap-in or rubber?
both are good
>-Can wiring be put through the same grommets as the pitot tubes?
The pitot is ran in front of the main spar.
>-Is conduit a better way to go?
I ran 1/2 x .038 6061 but I think it was over kill. I am bad about that.
>-Are there any other plumbing/wiring considerations to allow for
>behind the main spar?
P-P tubes run horz to the bellcrank & then to the aileron is all.
Don Jordan~6A wings~Arlington,Tx
donspawn(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fuselage Kit |
>
>Was wondering roughly how long most of you are taking to build the fuselage
>kit for the RV-8?
Hello,
I have been at the fuselage almost a year (March) and am now on the right
elevator with parts of the left elevator to go. This is part time
averaging roughly 10 hours per week (some 0 some 15) with absolutely no
previous experience.
Work is moving faster now that I am doing less learning and more
constructing so with your concentrated time and experience you should be
able to cut my time down considerably.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8-R. Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
I put in a pretty big piece of conduit through the wing. I put this
through the original holes with the plastic grommets. I had to drill
out the holes and flare them for the installed conduit. I like the
conduit idea because it will be easy to later thread wires through. How
big a piece you should put in there depends on what is going to be in
the wing tips. I have wing tip lights and my pitot is out by the 2nd to
last rib. I used the Gretz pitot. I ran my pitot lines through the
conduit. (I have a pitot and static line) plus wires for the pitot
heater and wires for the strobes and wing tip lights. I have no antenna
in the wingtips. That would have added a coax to the antenna.
I am considering putting my marker beacon antenna in my wingtip (right
one). I have one of those nasty RVs that is IFR equipped although I
don't plan on shooting approaches down to 100 and 1/4. Unless I have to
that is.
Hope this helps. It's a real rewarding time when you get the wings
closed, then the apprehension comes about what have I left out.
Gary Fesenbek
Roanoke, VA 6A, Control stick
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Lervold [SMTP:RLervold(at)compuserve.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 09, 1998 12:11 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Wing plumbing
>
>
> Listers:
>
> I've now begun the task of putting the wing skeleton together aft of
> the
> main spar. The manual reminds me to plan for grommets or conduit for
> both
> the pitot tubes and the wingtip wiring. It recommends the lower
> forward
> corner of the main wing ribs. A few questions:
>
> -Install two sets of grommets, one above the other, one for pitot
> tubes,
> one for wingtip wiring?
> -Distances from edges for locations?
> -What tye of grommets, plastic snap-in or rubber?
> -Can wiring be put through the same grommets as the pitot tubes?
> -Is conduit a better way to go?
> -Are there any other plumbing/wiring considerations to allow for
> behind the
> main spar?
> -Is there anything to allow room for other than the aileron rods &
> bellcrank?
>
> Thanks!
> Randy Lervold
> -8 #80500, starting wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | My Apoligy. was Nose v. Tail |
To All,
My apologies for my smart A#$ remark to John Kitz's "who would want a trike"
question. But my answer remains the same. There are places where a nose
dragger just makes more sense.
I will say it all again in a different way. Then I will shut up, I promise!
Let me make my position Absolutely Clear! I never said, and do not believe
that Trikes are better. They are better for some people and some missions.
I believe the best comparison of this is... I love to fly round engines
and Tailwheel airplanes. I am one of the fortunate few who get to do it
nearly every weekend.(I used to fly a DC-3 and will again) There is nothing
wrong with round engines or tailwheels. The airlines (and the others I
listed), however, no longer fly round engines or tailwheel airplanes. That
might be different if the pilots got to choose, but I doubt it. I spent many
nights in the ice and snow in a Twin Beech and I love that airplane, but I
would have traded for a C-90 in a new york second when it was "horse hockey
and half" with moderate ice. It is because turbines and trikes are better
suited to the mission. Is the Twin Beech more exciting to fly and more
demanding of her pilots? You bet.
I have an RV-4, I love it. It is right for me. So as others have said and
I repeat, build the airplane that BEST suits the pilot and the mission.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition by Empire Development |
Received this morning from the owner of Empire Developments:
ChaniK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have 'retired' from the business to take up a full time job, and the only
> product still shipping is the autopilots. Made and marketted by Steve
> Egolf
> in Massachusetts (email Ximbibwe(at)aol.com) None of the other porducts are
> active and I personally only hit this email address every couple of weeks
> so.
>
> Thanks for the interrest, though
>
> -Kurt
________________________________________________________________________________
jmflying(at)gte.net, jakearns(at)dallas.net, lisamartin(at)ibm.net,
rv-list(at)matronics.com, Sunajj(at)aol.com
| From: | Charlie <ckfiber(at)dallas.net> |
| Subject: | New e-mail address |
Juli and my email addresses will combine on 3-11 and become
"kearns(at)gte.net", please update your address books.
Thanks
Juli, Charlie @ Cody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Selling Your RV |
Shelby,
Boy is that comment going to stir up some folks! But I couldnt agree more,
the Rocket is a beauty! It may have to be my next RV (assuming I ever finish
this one).
Mike Wills
RV-4 (fuse)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
The Harmon Rocket is by
>far the best looking RV type plane.
>
>Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 brake master cylinders |
Fellow Listers
Gentlemen, I am in the process of installing my rudder pedals in my RV-4. I
am referring to drawing 37. This calls for the brake master cylinders to be
mounted to the pedals with the cylinder/piston on the bottom (connecting to
F-474C). Clearance is very tight to allow movement of the pedal between the
outboard footwell and the F-413 bulkhead. I happen to have an antique RV-4
construction video and they showed these master cylinders mounted with the
cylinder/piston at the top. This seems to allow plenty of room for rudder
pedal travel. Is this permissible? Does it really matter?
Thanks,
Doug
*******************************************
Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
| From: | rvpilot(at)juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Hi Scott,
I agree with everything you said except that part about a 6A probably
having a shorter take off run. 15 extra pounds, all else being equal, has
to result in a longer take off run. Care to comment?
Regards, Bill RV4 N66WD
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505 <RBusick505(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Selling Your RV |
<< The Harmon Rocket is by
far the best looking RV type plane.
Shelby in Nashville. >>
Is that the Rocket 3 or Rocket 4, and when will the Rocket 6 hit the market?
Bob Busick
Non Rocket 6
Fremont Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing plumbing |
>
>
>Listers:
>
>I've now begun the task of putting the wing skeleton together aft of
the
>main spar. The manual reminds me to plan for grommets or conduit for
both
>the pitot tubes and the wingtip wiring. It recommends the lower forward
>corner of the main wing ribs. A few questions:
>
>-Install two sets of grommets, one above the other, one for pitot
tubes,
>one for wingtip wiring?
>-Distances from edges for locations?
>-What tye of grommets, plastic snap-in or rubber?
>-Can wiring be put through the same grommets as the pitot tubes?
>-Is conduit a better way to go?
>-Are there any other plumbing/wiring considerations to allow for behind
the
>main spar?
>-Is there anything to allow room for other than the aileron rods &
>bellcrank?
>
>Thanks!
>Randy Lervold
>-8 #80500, starting wings
>
>Randy,
I installed the pitot tubing exactly as shown on the plans, through the
plastic grommets as supplied. I used the plastic conduit as supplied by
Van's for the wing tip light and landing light wiring, with a pull
string in place for anything else that may come to mind later. It is run
through the bottom forward corner of the main ribs, the holes were
drilled with a unibit. I stabilized the tubing with RTV, although it
stays put very nicely without it. The approx. position of the conduit
holes are just up and aft of the bottom rib corner, without interfering
with the stiffener ring. I had no problem getting a bucking bar around
it when installing the bottom skins...can push it out of the way, or use
a slender bar of some sort.
Enjoy!
Brian Denk
My date with Proseal cometh...
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jawilcox(at)nb.sympatico.ca (jawilcox) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fuselage Kit |
>
>>
>>Was wondering roughly how long most of you are taking to build the fuselage
>>kit for the RV-8?
>
>
>I have an 8 ready to test fit wings. Have built three RV6s, a fuselage for
a 6 and a set of wings for a Harmon. My feeling on construction time.
1. tail same as RV6.
2. wing slightly quicker than 6or4 due to redesigning and pre assembled
spar.
3. fuselage I unpacked this fus kit Dec 1st and today it is setting on
its gear for the first time. As I said earlier I will be starting
the wing fitting tomorrow. I have found the 8 fus kit to be of
excellent quality in every way but the 8 seems to me to be a sumwhat
more complicated structure. I may be wrong on this but I think it
will take longer to build an 8 fus kit than a 6.
4.finish kit and canopy, havent got much done on that yet but am not
expecting any surprises.
Hope to fly this 8 and a 6 I have nearly complete this June. If anyone is
interisted the 6 will be for sale. contact me off list on that.
Jerry Wilcox
jawilcox(at)nb.sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 brake master cylinders |
| From: | rvpilot(at)juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Doug,
The Master Cyls. were mounted upside downin the early 4's because of a
percieved clearence problem. Later it was discovered that they would fit
ok right side up. they will work fine either way. I have done it both
ways but "right side up " requires a little tweeking with washers and
bending here and there to get it right. They just look better right side
up.
Regards, Bill, RV4, N66WD
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose/Tail Chatter |
Mike,
I agree with you 100 & 10 percent, There is no one else at Republic Airport
building a RV or any other type of Home Built Aircraft, to me its a sad state
of affairs. I was even told that it would not be a good idea to do my test
flying ( when the time comes) at this field. There is only one other
Expermintal Aircraft on the field, and it a WW2 Itilian Fiat - the only one
flying in the world ( so we have been told )
I am however lucky to have meet other builders ( thanks to this net ) on Long
Island that are building RV's One RV8 & 3 RV6's. And this section of Long
Island was at one time a very large Aircraft Production Area - Home of Grumman
- Where did it all
go .
Thanks for your reply.
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<<
> >>
> Way to tell him Doug!!! >>
This "debate" regarding tailwheel vs. nosewheel is pointless and a waste of
space on the list. Let's discuss important issues, shall we?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Gleixner <agleix(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RTV on Elevators |
I am working on the elevators for my RV8 and was wondering if I need to put RTV
at the trailing edge of the stiffeners similar to the rudder. The manual does
not say to do this for the elevators, but the construction is similar to the
rudder. If cracking is a problem for the rudder, it seems it would be a problem
for the elevators as well. Has anyone else been putting RTV in the elevators?
Aaron Gleixner
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Ailerons, RV-8 |
Von:
You are correct. It sounds more fearsome than it really is. With
the aileron brackets clamped to the aileron, it's possible to shift
them around until you are satisfied with the alignment. The airfoil
templates are not precise, but get you very close. Double check
vertical alignment vs. the spar at each end. Also check the spanwise
location: the further inboard you get the aileron, the less aileron
travel you'll have (though I don't think you can get it far enough
inboard to get under the minimum specified deflection).
It helps to have a second person when you're doing this, but I
managed it solo.
Have fun.
George
#80006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
Way to go Doug, Actually my students try to land the 747-400 in the 3 pt
attitude sometimes. Boy does that make me nervous.
Have you had any more oil leaks from the Pink Pussy Cat?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
Would appreciate any input from the group re: a problem with radio reception
that I experienced yesterday. Was communicating with another RV on 122.85, he
was following me out of the airport. He was about 2 miles behind and above; he
could hear me fine but his transmissions were intermittent to me. As he got
closer, the reception got clearer. As we flew around, any time he got more
than a mile or two away, my reception got bad again.
I am using a Terra comm with the antenna on the bottom of the fuse, aft of the
baggage area.
Strangely enough, later when I was monitoring 122.9, I could hear CTAF
announcements for an airport over 90 miles away, very clearly!
Any thoughts/advice?
Walt RV-6A N79WH (4 hours new)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
What's RTV? I'm about to start my rudder, where do I get it?
Moe Colontonio
Aaron Gleixner wrote:
>
>
> I am working on the elevators for my RV8 and was wondering if I need to put RTV
at the trailing edge of the stiffeners similar to the rudder. The manual does
not say to do this for the elevators, but the construction is similar to the
rudder. If cracking is a problem for the rudder, it seems it would be a problem
for the elevators as well. Has anyone else been putting RTV in the elevators?
>
> Aaron Gleixner
> RV-8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
>
>
Has anyone else been putting RTV in the elevators?
>
>
Aaron,
I went ahead and put RTV on the trailing edge of the elevator stiffeners
even though the plans didn't say to do so. It seemed like a good idea and
had no impact if not really necessary.
Keep on buildin' !!
Bill Pagan
80555
wings in jigs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
Obviously enough people thought it was important to have so many
replies. It's helping a builder make a decision that is every bit as
important as what engine to use. Frankly, I think that if the size of
the archive is going to dictate what we talk about here, we should get
rid of it. It's a useful tool, but nowhere near as useful as the 800
plus builders here with up to date information.
Moe Colontonio
Rvator97 wrote:
> This "debate" regarding tailwheel vs. nosewheel is pointless and a waste of
> space on the list. Let's discuss important issues, shall we?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Landing Gear |
Don't want to start any wars, but I must respond to the comment on the RV-8
gear. I LIKE it. I think it is much more aesthetically pleasing than the
swept back ones. So you guys at Van's, don't change it!! (Yes, I realize
that it is that way for a purpose.) Sorry, I know this is trivial drivel,
but I couldn't help it.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Just finished HS rear spar and only had to drill out 6 rivets (and put in
one 5/32)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
>
>What's RTV? I'm about to start my rudder, where do I get it?
>
>Moe Colontonio
>
>Aaron Gleixner wrote:
>>
>>
>> I am working on the elevators for my RV8 and was wondering if I need
to put RTV at the trailing edge of the stiffeners similar to the rudder.
The manual does not say to do this for the elevators, but the
construction is similar to the rudder. If cracking is a problem for the
rudder, it seems it would be a problem for the elevators as well. Has
anyone else been putting RTV in the elevators?
>>
>> Aaron Gleixner
>> RV-8
I used RTV on the rudder only. I'm hoping the thicker skins on the tail
control surfaces (as opposed to the -6) will hold up OK even without it.
If not, I guess I'll get to "polish up" on my building skills some day.
Moe, RTV is that gooey, silicone glue that smells like vinegar and stays
flexible after it cures. It supposedly helps to dampen out any
vibrations that can crack the skins around the skin stiffeners. It can
be found at auto stores or Home Depot in the adhesives aisle.
Brian Denk
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
22>
>
>I'm about to place a couple of huge orders so that I can start with
>the completion of things. However, a couple of items have me
>stumped. Maybe you can give some good hints. :-)
>
>1) I need a couple of fuel gauges; but, I don't want the expensive
>ones that work with the old S/W senders I got with my wings. What
>do you guys recommend? I already have a couple of off brands that
>work; but, I'd like something new. What works?
If your SW senders are installed and working okay, you can
get a dual pointer, right/left fuel gage from Westach. We
can work up the adapter circuitry that will interface the
SW senders properly with Westach's meter movements. Their
2DA4-30 looks like it would work
>
>2) I also need a reasonably priced fuel pressure sender. The UMA
>one sorta scares me based upon what I've read here and there. Any
>suggestions?
Take a look at the Westach K2A8-8MS 0-15 psi instrument and
companion transducer.
>I should be placing an orders for about $6K within a week or so. I'm
>hoping that will get me close to having everything to finish out except
>for the glass, paint, hoses, etc. I'm running out of money! :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A #22220
>
>
>
>
>
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
cecilth(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> You wrote:
> I have been flying for 3 years out of Republic Airport in Farmingdale
> Long Island, the flight school I am a product of has no tail wheel
> aircraft. And I have come to learn no flight school on the field has a
> tail wheel aircraft.
>
> So I guess I have to start looking at one of the other local fields and
> see who has a Tail Dragger for rent for some dual. I could not even find
> a CFII at Republic that has Tail Dragger Time,
>
> End Quote
>
> If you stand back and re read that quote, It looks like it is making a
> very loud statement.
>
> Cecil Hatfield
>
>
Well if you look just a little further north, say Mass. NH. VT. Maine.
you'll find all the taildragger airports and instructers you need. I for
one can give time in my taildragger or can refer you to someone else.
Your Call
Don 44years taildragger experience
ATP CFI CFII MEI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose/Tail Chatter |
If there is a flight school at a major airport that does NOT
> teach in tailwheel aircraft, or even know where to send you for some, it
> makes me wonder what their real intent is; perhaps to pump out airline
> captains, not pilots.
You were doing pretty well till you got to the last sentence.
Maybe you would be so kind as to share the difference between a pilot
and an Airline Captain.
Don
ng your RV.
What buyers are looking for.
One of the problems I ran into was that besides deciding how the would
like it equipped most (not all) of the interested buyers I had contact
with are totally in the dark about what the difference is between a such
and such advertised for $35,000 versus a such and such advertised for
$65,000.
Even if they have looked at a few different RV's, unless they are looking
at them side by side the don't readily see any differences, and then
often not until you point them out.
A large portion of the people shopping are the type that wouldn't ever
attempt to build them self (the reason for shopping for already built)
As a result they often aren't the type of person that has an eye for the
details like the majority of builders probably do.
The seem to look at it from the view point of - "It has the equipment I
want, I like the paint scheme, how much do you want for it?
The effect of
>engine,equipment, etc.
The people who have the money to buy high quality kit planes seem to want
the top of the line in performance options. 180 HP, constant speed prop,
well equipped panel, etc.
Who is interested in buying Homebuilts?
A lot more of the general pilot population it seems (which can be nothing
but good for those of us that enjoy this past time). The general
aviation community a little at a time is giving more attention to the
"custom built" portion of aviation. Even AOPA and Flying regularly run
features about kit planes, etc. More and more pilots who fly just for
fun are finding out that there are a lot of airplanes that aren't
difficult to fly, but are a whole lot more fun than the cessna/piper
whatever that they fly all of the time. And probably less expensive to
own at the same time.
One thing I do know is that the resale value of RV's in general has
dipped slightly in the last couple years or so. There are more of them
available for sale than in the past (supply and demand!).
The retired fellow that bought mine just loves it (he bought it seeing it
only in photos).
Says that it is far more than he ever expected and he is very happy;
which makes me happy - and sad.....
Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. Finally Sold!
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat rudder pedals |
Doug:
How do you plan to land the 4 from the rear seat without rudder pedals? At
the very least, you should sleep better knowing that your passenger has a
reasonable chance of landing if you die or become incapacitated. There is an
additional advantage. With rudder pedals, a stick and throtle controls in the
rear, the PIC can legally fly in the rear seat. This may be a real benefit for
you if you lose your medical. ---- And, as the old saying goes, we are all just
one medical away from being an ultralight pilot.
Robert Miller
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I'm working on my RV-4 fuselage and am now debating the merits of rear seat
> rudder pedals. I have flown in RV-4s with and without them and am curious
> as to other's opinions as to whether they are worth the effort. I do intend
> to install the footwells which I know does greatly add to the rear
> passenger's comfort.
>
> Comments??
>
> Doug
>
> *******************************************
> Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<19980309.200658.11630.0.rvpilot(at)juno.com>
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Hi Scott, I agree with everything you said except that part about a
>6A probably
>having a shorter take off run. 15 extra pounds, all else being equal,
>has
>to result in a longer take off run. Care to comment?
>Regards, Bill RV4 N66WD
Sure Bill, I was rather surprised someone hadn't called my on this
sooner.
First off remember that in my post I mentioned RV pilots of average
piloting skills. (BTW from what I have seen the majority of RV pilots
aren't capable of flying there airplane anywhere close to what it,s
capabilities are - my self included)
Now anyone who has flown any of the tail dragger models very many hours
will tell you that it is quite easy to arrive on the runway tail wheel
first (even RV-4's with tall gear though it is close to optimum)
The explanation for this is that the airplane is capable of continuing to
fly at an angle of attack that is higher than its 3 point attitude on the
ground.
Without the ability to rotate to a higher AOA at takeoff then the three
point attitude you are stuck with unsticking at the airspeed which causes
flight at the 3 point AOA.
The RV-6A (and presumably the soon to be tested RV-8A) doesn't have this
problem. Rotating to a higher AOA at a lower airspeed will produce
flight in a shorter distance (assuming all other equipment, power, prop,
etc on the 2 airplanes to be the same except for gear placement).
For landing the same is true. Touch down at min. airspeed in a 6A
almost scraping the tail skid, dump the flaps while lowering the nose
wheel, and use maximum braking just short of skidding the tires.
This type of landing with maximum braking I believe is easier for an
average RV-6A pilot than an RV-6 pilot because even if we assume that the
touch down speeds are about the same, the RV-6A pilot has a rather easy
time using maximum braking but the RV-6 driver may not.
Is this difference of much value? Not very likely. What is the
difference between a landing of 400 ft roll out or one of 425 ft.
not likely to matter in every day flying (just guessing at possible
distance differences).
But it is something that all the nose dragger RV drivers can use as a
come back to a smart alec tail dragger pilot :-)
Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. Finally Sold!
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: { Fuel Senders } |
>>1) I need a couple of fuel gauges; but, I don't want the expensive
>>ones that work with the old S/W senders I got with my wings. What
>>do you guys recommend? I already have a couple of off brands that
>>work; but, I'd like something new. What works?
>
> If your SW senders are installed and working okay, you can
> get a dual pointer, right/left fuel gage from Westach. We
> can work up the adapter circuitry that will interface the
> SW senders properly with Westach's meter movements. Their
> 2DA4-30 looks like it would work
Bob,
... the Westach 2DA4 units work directly with no adapter circuitry.
Check the RV-list archives for my posting when I tested the meter's and the
S/W senders linearity.
... Gil (that's the meter I'm using) Alexander
PS I'm not sure about the -30 in your part number. My instrument is just
marked 2DA4 and it came from Aircraft $pruce. It does have internal
interface circuitry, but works with the S/W resistive senders.
*** big snip ***
> Bob . . .
> ////
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
Newsletter Editors: Permission given to re-print if
credit is given and a courtesy copy is sent to me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
Don,
The situation in Vermont is actually not much better than at the
Republic Airport. I agree that there are lots of taildragger airports
and instructors up here, but there are not enough taildragger airplanes.
I rent airplanes and fly out of a grass field just south of Burlington,
Vermont. In 1995 I began building a RV-6. I decided to build a RV-6 in
order to have more space between the prop and the turf. I also liked
the way they looked.
During 1995-1997 (while building the tail and wings of my RV-6) I looked
for a tailwheel airplane to rent and a tailwheel instructor in northern
Vermont. There was only one airplane for rent in all of northern
Vermont, a Taylorcraft at Franklin County (FSO) in Swanton, Vermont.
Franklin County is a couple of hours from my home. There were many
instructors around who could give me a tailwheel check out, but I had to
come up with the airplane. I decided that unless I could fly regularly
I did not see how I could become proficient at it. Two hours driving
each way was too far.
I heard from many people who claimed they knew people who would give
instruction in tailwheel airplanes. I followed every lead. Most leads
ended up with a guy who used to instruct, but who no longer would take
students, had sold the airplane, lost the medical, or sad to say, had
died. Some leads simply led nowhere.
I came to the conclusion that the only way to fly regularly in a
tailwheel airplane was to buy one myself. I did not really have the
money to both build and buy, although I looked around. There was a
T-craft in pieces in a barn that the owner needed to get $18,000 for.
There were several Cubs in the $24,000 range. I saw lots of
taildraggers that rarely flew, sometimes only a few hours a year. I
couldn't figure out why the owners would rather let them sit on the
ground than allow a non-owner to fly them. Then I looked into insurance
and realized that even the owner of a tailwheel airplane can't get
insurance until he has at least ten hours and a signoff!
I had finished my RV-6 empanage and wings by 1997 and decided to build a
RV-6A instead of a RV-6.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A fuselage in the jig,
All bottom and side skins drilled and in place!
-----Original Message-----....... if you look just a little
further north, say Mass. NH. VT. Maine.
you'll find all the taildragger airports and instructers you
need.....
Don 44years taildragger experience
ATP CFI CFII MEI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
I need to make some room in my garage, and I was thinking of hanging my
finished wings on the wall. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you do it?
Paul Besing
RV-6A QB (197AB)
Working on seats...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <dzflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Selling Your RV |
Scott...
What are the liability issues involved in selling a homebuilt? Do you have
to lay awake at night wondering if you are going to get a nasty gram from an
attorney someday?
Bob
6A empennage on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BStobbe <coro_01(at)weblabs.com> |
Would anyone who has used the West System epoxy on their fiberglass work
care to comment on the following:
1. Can it be used for all the fiberglass work, including the canopy?
2. How much would you estimate would be needed to do all the fiberglass
work on an RV?
3. Do you recommend using the West System, or would you do it differently
next time?
Thanks for the help!
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
getting ready to do some fiberglass stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
I went thru this "debate" myself over a year ago. I am still interested
in this one. I think lots of new guys are interested to. so keep it
going. Ads to the archives, I still haven't gone there after t 1/2 years
of building. Do we really need it?
CH
You wrote
>This "debate" regarding tailwheel vs. nosewheel is pointless and a
>waste of
>space on the list. Let's discuss important issues, shall we?
_____________________________________________________________________
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Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau <MLaboyteau(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: radio problems |
<< Was communicating with another RV on 122.85, he
was about 2 miles behind and above; he
could hear me fine but his transmissions were intermittent to me. As he got
closer, the reception got clearer.
I am using a Terra comm with the antenna on the bottom of the fuse, aft of
the
baggage area.
Strangely enough, later when I was monitoring 122.9, I could hear CTAF
announcements for an airport over 90 miles away, very clearly!
Any thoughts/advice?
Walt RV-6A N79WH (4 hours new) >>
I wonder about HIS radio installation? If you could hear transmissions over
90 miles away, I would be suspicious about the problem being your
installation. Also, what is the location of his antenna in relation to his
position to you? Maybe part of his airframe was blocking or reflecting the rf
energy. I also installed a Terra radio with the bent whip antennas on the
bottom just forward of the aft spar. But since it's still sitting in the
garage, I haven't had a chance to do any meaningfull testing yet. It will pick
up an ATIS broadcast from an airport 12 miles away. Let me know if you find
anything!
Mark LaBoyteaux
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
RV-6A N106RV Airport by April 1st or bust!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | QFA1 <QFA1(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Wings |
Paul,
I hung mine with adjustable cargo straps and some large "eye screws."
Make sure you pad the strap's buckles, hooks, etc. and provide protection from
car door dings. I hung them leading edge down. Works fine!
Greg-RV4AV8R2B-Hughes//fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Macintire" <dave_mac(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft painting |
Parker43rp wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
> I am in the process of painting my RV-6 with Centari without the hardner using
> a
> Croix LPHV sprayer. I am having trouble eliminating orangepeel texture in the
> cured finish. I have thinned the paint to the recommended viscosity, used a
> higher temperature reducer, and added retarder in different combinations with
> incomplete success. The size of the needle and air cap assembly of the
> sprayer is 0.7.
>
> The Centari is applied in 3 crosscoats over veriprime. Does anyone have
> experience with these products and equipment?
>
> Ray Parker
> RV-6 final assembly and painting
>
Ray, John and others,
I friend of mine had the Croix system which he liked very much(although
he was scared of the paint and took every precaution he could). He had
numerous problems with it at first including orange peel and others.
What he did to solve the problem was experiment with different needles
and nozzles. He told me that there was no correlation between
recommended needle/nozzle combinations for a non-HVLP gun and his gun.
I recall that he used a much larger nozzle than one would normally
consider.
As far as questions on the clear coating, I have painted a couple of
cars, one with acrylic enamel with urthane hardner and the other with
basecoat/clearcoat (urthane clear). The clear is not for protection, it
is for shine. However, it has hardener and can be sanded and buffed as
is the case with all two-step systems. The acrylic enamel had catylizer
in it and therefore was a one-step system that also could be sanded and
buffed. I would not recommend using a two-step process unless you had
specific, legitimate reasons for doing so. I completely concur with
what Bob says in that almost paint products are of high quality and will
give excellent results if used in accordance with the manufacturers'
instructions. I have seen beautiful planes at Sun-N-Fun every year and
almost all of them have different paint products on them. What does
that tell you?
Watch out for those isocyanates though! Some people are very sensitive
to them.
Dave Macintire
Orlando, FL RV-6 LE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Macintire" <dave_mac(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Hinge |
Jon Elford wrote:
>
>
> Thanks to all who responded about my trim tab hinge pin. I haven't yet done
> anything, but as usual I now have so many ideas that I will spend more time
> deciding what to do than actually doing it!
>
> Jon Elford
> RV6 #25201
> Finishing up empennage-
> WINGS ON THE WAY!!
>
Jon,
I have the electric trim option for the elevator. On the drawing that
Van's supplies which inclues drawings for both the elevator set-up and
the electric trim for the aileron, there is a detail drawing showing the
hinge pin on the aileron being secured with a cotter pin. The drawing
is very unclear, but one could assume that it shows the same system that
Cessna uses to secure the hinges on its aircraft. Hope this helps.
Dave Macintire
Orlando, FL
RV-6 LE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | QFA1 <QFA1(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Footwells & rudder trim |
Perhaps my first post of these subjects went to a "black hole" or were just
too stupid to desirve a reply, but I'll ask again. I'd like info pertaining
to constructing rear cockpit footwells for a -4 -- if possible, and a simple
(i.e. springs, etc.) system to control rudder trim. I'm wearing my nomex
underware for flame protection!
Greg-RV4AV8R2B-Hughes//fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: radio problems |
I have same arrangement and same experience. My radio is a King 135A.
Good news is that the situation you describe is the only "problem " I
have experienced in 162 hours. Only air to air with other airplane
blocked (his or mine).
I wouldn't change my antenna for anything. It works great and is
strongest in air to ground mode, with no compaints on ground ops.
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
>> the flight school I am a product of has no tail wheel
>> aircraft. And I have come to learn no flight school on the field has a
>> tail wheel aircraft.
>>
>Well if you look just a little further north, say Mass. NH. VT. Maine.
>you'll find all the taildragger airports and instructers you need. I for
>one can give time in my taildragger or can refer you to someone else.
>
>Don 44years taildragger experience....
YES!!!! All is not lost!! THIS is one of the things that make this list
great! And it is attitudes like Dons that, in some small way, may help bring
aviation out of this slump it is in. Don, thanks: we need more pilots like you!
One of the purposes of this list is to get hints of how to put these great
airplanes together. It has also brought a unique group of pilot/builders
together to support each other in an industry where support may not be a
given (you would think that would not be so). Keep up the good work!
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Formative Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505 <RBusick505(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Wings |
<< need to make some room in my garage, and I was thinking of hanging my
finished wings on the wall. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you do it?
>>
I use a long galvanized pipe through the lightening holes and then use some
rope to the supports or rafters to suspend the pipe. Using the pipe is also a
very easy way to carry the wings around. It gives some good firm hand holds
without damaging the wing.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)startext.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass work |
BStobbe wrote:
> Would anyone who has used the West System epoxy on their fiberglass work
> care to comment on the following:
> 1. Can it be used for all the fiberglass work, including the canopy?
Yes, for all fiberglass work including the canopy.
> 2. How much would you estimate would be needed to do all the fiberglass
> work on an RV?
I got the gallon size of resin but suspect that much less will be
needed...the cost break on the gallon size from Spruce is considerable
so I went that way...will give the considerable excess to a friend. Two
quarts of resin may be enough...
> 3. Do you recommend using the West System, or would you do it differently
> next time?
I haven't used the others but I like the odorless resin and some of the
others are not odorless. I know of no reason I would switch. And be
sure to get the West balloons...only a few ounces will do the whole
airplane!!! And milled fibers for the structural demands.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
RV-6A still "Westing" with the cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Macintire" <dave_mac(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> >
> >What's RTV? I'm about to start my rudder, where do I get it?
> >
> >Moe Colontonio
> >
> >Aaron Gleixner wrote:
> >>
>
> >>
> >> I am working on the elevators for my RV8 and was wondering if I need
> to put RTV at the trailing edge of the stiffeners similar to the rudder.
> The manual does not say to do this for the elevators, but the
> construction is similar to the rudder. If cracking is a problem for the
> rudder, it seems it would be a problem for the elevators as well. Has
> anyone else been putting RTV in the elevators?
> >>
> >> Aaron Gleixner
> >> RV-8
>
> I used RTV on the rudder only. I'm hoping the thicker skins on the tail
> control surfaces (as opposed to the -6) will hold up OK even without it.
> If not, I guess I'll get to "polish up" on my building skills some day.
>
> Moe, RTV is that gooey, silicone glue that smells like vinegar and stays
> flexible after it cures. It supposedly helps to dampen out any
> vibrations that can crack the skins around the skin stiffeners. It can
> be found at auto stores or Home Depot in the adhesives aisle.
>
> Brian Denk
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
You are not supposed to use the type of RTV that smells like vinegar.
It cures with acetic acid. There are types that cure without that
smell. I looked around and found some "Ultra Blue" RTV at Pep Boys.
After carefully checking the label and then asking the manager to show
me the MSDS data for it, I was convinced that I had the correct type. I
am not certain why Van's stated in the builders' manual not the use the
type with acetic acid, but I would suppose that it is hard on the
aluminum. Hope this helps.
Dave Macintire
RV-6 LE
Orlando, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Wings |
I just built a wooden cradle on castor wheels this weekend. It stacks the
wings vertically, with VS & HS between them, back to back so that I can
move them out of the way when required.
Nigel Marshall
Chevreuse, France
RV-4 (# 4062)
Finishing first wing
marshan(at)meritorauto.com
Paul Besing on 10/03/98 01:41:15
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Hanging Wings
I need to make some room in my garage, and I was thinking of hanging my
finished wings on the wall. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you do
it?
Paul Besing
RV-6A QB (197AB)
Working on seats...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com> |
I am ready to order a prop and have a question for you'all.
I have a RV-4 which will have a 0320 E2D (150 hp), airport altitude 1650 ft,
and want to do some mild acro. I want to have a middle of the road prop
which gives descent climb and a cruise speed. I have been told that a 70 x
70 is what I want. I know that there are a lot of things to consider when
picking the pitch, but will I be out in left field with this prop...or
should I go with some other pitch/length ?
It is not an `almost constant speed', and no I am not planning to cut my own.
Have any of you put this prop on your plane, if so what do you like/dislike
about it..?
Marc DeGirolamo
-4 #3289
Saskatoon,SK.
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Selling Your RV |
John Harmon told me last Oct. that the Rocket 6 and the Rocket 8 will never
happen. Said he likes what he has and in particular, couldnt understand why
anyone would even ask about a Rocket 8.
Mike Wills
RV-4(fuse)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Is that the Rocket 3 or Rocket 4, and when will the Rocket 6 hit the market?
>
>Bob Busick
>Non Rocket 6
>Fremont Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<< I went thru this "debate" myself over a year ago. >>
I too went thru this debate when I bought my RV kit. When I sent in my money
for my tail kit (1990) I advised Van's that I wasn't sure which mosel I would
be building. I got plans for a -6. I guess someone at Van's made the decision
for me:-)
To be honest though, I still go through this debate. Each design has its
advantages and disadvantages. I'm glad that I built the -6 for several
reasons: (1) Although I had 50 hours of TW time, flying the -6 has improved my
flying (landing) skills (2) I think it looks better (nobody ever thinks that
their child is ugly!), and (3) This is the real reason (really) I couldn't
stand to listen to my -4 friends give me a hard time about NOT building the
TW. As it is they all call my RV the RV-T (T for tanker) because of its extra
girth.
The only advantage I can see to the -6A is ground operations. I'm 6'1" and I
have a heck of a time seeing over the nose of my -6. I tend to stick my head
out the canopy and "S" turn. Once I get the tail up, no problem. As far as
landing, the RV's are about the easiest aircraft to land regardless of
configuration.
If you're not sure you should probably be building the 6A.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | caummisa(at)arn.net (Richard Caummisar, CSP) |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
Room Temperature Vinyl, usually blue.
>>
>>What's RTV? I'm about to start my rudder, where do I get it?
>>
>>Moe Colontonio
>>
>>Aaron Gleixner wrote:
>>>
>
>>>
>>> I am working on the elevators for my RV8 and was wondering if I need
>to put RTV at the trailing edge of the stiffeners similar to the rudder.
>The manual does not say to do this for the elevators, but the
>construction is similar to the rudder. If cracking is a problem for the
>rudder, it seems it would be a problem for the elevators as well. Has
>anyone else been putting RTV in the elevators?
>>>
>>> Aaron Gleixner
>>> RV-8
>
>I used RTV on the rudder only. I'm hoping the thicker skins on the tail
>control surfaces (as opposed to the -6) will hold up OK even without it.
>If not, I guess I'll get to "polish up" on my building skills some day.
>
>Moe, RTV is that gooey, silicone glue that smells like vinegar and stays
>flexible after it cures. It supposedly helps to dampen out any
>vibrations that can crack the skins around the skin stiffeners. It can
>be found at auto stores or Home Depot in the adhesives aisle.
>
>Brian Denk
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
Richard Caummisar, CSP
MDM/Lamb, Inc.
Pantex Plant
Amarillo, TX
____(+)_____
' '
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
<< I am ready to order a prop and have a question for you'all.
I have a RV-4 which will have a 0320 E2D (150 hp), airport altitude 1650 ft,
and want to do some mild acro. I want to have a middle of the road prop
which gives descent climb and a cruise speed. I have been told that a 70 x
70 is what I want. >>
Marc,
From that altitude even a good cruise prop will give you great climb
performance. 70X70 will be completely different from every prop manufactor so
dont worry about needing to know a specific pitch and length. Tell the prop
maker what you want to do with the airplane. If he is a reputable prop maker
he should be able to give you what you want from what you tell him. Once again
choose carefully! this is an area where you get what you pay for.
Ryan Bendure
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail) |
[snip]
> Ads to the archives, I still haven't gone there after t 1/2 years
> of building. Do we really need it?
Yes, we do.
This email list generates a large amount of email traffic, more than
some people can deal with, and enough that it has caused difficulties in
the past for Matt, the list administrator. I think it's up to all of us
to do what we can to minimize this traffic, for our sake and Matt's,
especially when it comes to repeat questions.
A lot of list traffic could be avoided if people would just make more
use of the archive. Just the other day I was wondering about whether to
use steel fittings on my carb/engine ports, and before asking the list,
I did an archive search and came up with the answer. No extra traffic
on the list and I got my answer a lot more quickly to boot.
I frankly don't understand why anyone would NOT take advantage of a
resource that contains the combined knowledge of members of the RV
community going back to 1990.
Matt spent a fair amount of time and effort creating the archive search
engine. And in fact he has a new improved version that he's going to be
putting on line before too much longer. Lets all take advantage of this
and not let his efforts go to waste.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DenClay <DenClay(at)aol.com> |
I need to "unsuscribe"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass work |
Bruce,
Cant answer your specific RV related questions as I havent gotten that far
yet. I can highly recommend West Systems though as I have used it
extensively in RC model construction, boat building and repair, etc... Wets
out very nicely, is easy to use (especially if you get the dispenser pumps),
cures reliably, and hasnt had any adverse effects on any
plastics/plexi/lexan that Ive used it with. No problems with any allergic
reactions either.
BTW, I understand that one of the developers of the product is an RV builder.
Mike Wills
RV-4(fuse)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Would anyone who has used the West System epoxy on their fiberglass work
>care to comment on the following:
>
>3. Do you recommend using the West System, or would you do it differently
>next time?
>
>Thanks for the help!
>
>Bruce Stobbe
>RV-6
>getting ready to do some fiberglass stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Avery no longer carries Marhyde, self etching primer. In my saved notes,
I see that some other builders have had good luck with Sherwin Williams 988
self etching primer which is less costly than the Marhyde. Can someone give
give me the phone number of someone who will ship either Marhyde or the S-W
primer? There are no "local" paint stores where I live.
Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 400 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
> You are not supposed to use the type of RTV that smells like vinegar.
> It cures with acetic acid.
I believe this has been disproven. Read the RV-List FAQ for a write-up
on the subject. If someone has any information that would dispute this
I'd be interested in the information.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Gray" <klgray(at)startel.net> |
I have the 70 X 70 almost constant speed prop from Warnke on an o320 e2d
150hp.
Static RPM is 2325
Cruise RPM is 2500 and will not go over.
I can vary the power quite a bit, about 2 in mp. and it will stay at 2500.
Climb on a 70 degree day is 1200 solo. Cruise is 180 to 185 mph. Nice
Prop, but wish it would go higher on the RPM straight and level. Been
through hard rain, clear ice and rime ice. The prop and me do not like the
rime ice, rime ice stalled the prop and had to reduce power a lot to keep
from the red line.
I did get the harmic ballancer, did not do anything for the prop, except
moving my cg forward, which is what I wanted.
Ken Gray
klgray(at)startel.net
N69KG with 350 hours since Jan 96.
----------
> From: Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: prop choice
> Date: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 10:55 AM
>
>
> I am ready to order a prop and have a question for you'all.
> I have a RV-4 which will have a 0320 E2D (150 hp), airport altitude 1650
ft,
> and want to do some mild acro. I want to have a middle of the road prop
> which gives descent climb and a cruise speed. I have been told that a 70
x
> 70 is what I want. I know that there are a lot of things to consider when
> picking the pitch, but will I be out in left field with this prop...or
> should I go with some other pitch/length ?
> It is not an `almost constant speed', and no I am not planning to cut my
own.
> Have any of you put this prop on your plane, if so what do you
like/dislike
> about it..?
> Marc DeGirolamo
> -4 #3289
> Saskatoon,SK.
> Canada
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver <A20driver(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail) |
Randy: I think a lot of builders don't use the Alchive because they don't know
how to get there....Maybe we should run the process every couple of weeks or
once a month on continuing basis...Jim...A20driver(at)aol.com...Both 3 @ 4
flying...3 was built in 77..It votes this year!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. John Cocker" <jcocker(at)istar.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
The RTV is most important.
Terry Jantzi, finished an RV 6A about a year ago, and he already has
cracks at the end of the stiffners in the rudder and the elevators. Also
he added some similar stiffners at the rear of the fuselage where there
seemed to be expanses of unsupported aluminum, and he felt more support
might prevent "oil canning ". When Terry built his, RTV was not
mentioned.
He has the 180 hp Lycomining, plus constant speed prop.
My airctaft is identical, but I don't have any cracks (yet) the major
differnce is that I used the RTV as recommended.
On the fuelage, I glued some plastic foam the kind used to insulate the
fire wall - as recommended by George in his videos.
Another diffrence which might be relevant, Teryy tells me he cruises at
2,500 rpm, and 25 inches, as the motor/prop combination seem especially
smooth at that combination. I tend to cruise at 2,300rpm and 23", as it
is more quiet and uses less fuel for a small drop in speed.
Anyway, please add the RTV, it seems to adsorb the vibrations which
cause cracking.
John C-GDOC, 110 hours and holding, ( for better weather)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
<< From that altitude even a good cruise prop will give you great climb
performance. 70X70 will be completely different from every prop manufactor so
dont worry about needing to know a specific pitch and length. >>
Marc,
I should have mentioned that the length is important. I would try
and avoid using anything longer than 70". If you go to a 72" you are cutting
your ground clearance a little thin. At least with the old gear legs you are.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Manufacturer litigation and selling issues |
Following some questions on the RV list some time ago about litigation and
seller protection, I sent an email to a lawyer friend of mine in the US -
some of you may know Tony Pucillo through his postings to
rec.aviation.homebuilt. I found his response enlightening, and while my
original question dealt with hypothetical litigation against a manufacturer,
Tony also addresses the reselling issue. I thought it may be of interest to
other RV builders, and Tony was kind enough to agree to my sharing his
response with the list.
Disclaimers: my questions arose from MY concern that a law suit could result
in even the best, most respected and most conciencious kit manufacturer in
the world (ie. Vans Aircraft - who else?) having a interruption to their
business, which would impact builders. I am sure that Van and his business
advisors and lawyers has done everything in their power to prevent this from
happening. My questions arose from concerns about the litigation friendly
environment that the US appears to have. Any editing errors are mine, in an
attempt to make this appropriate to the list.
Thanks Tony!
--- my original message ---
Hi Tony
About two or three months ago there was a rvlist thread about protecting
oneself from lawsuits when selling a homebuilt aircraft. The general
consensus was that there wasn't a great deal that could be done.
As I have no intention of selling my -8 when she's finished, I didn't pay
too much thought to this. However, subsequent thought has got me thinking
about what would happen if a kit manufacturer went out of business while
builders were building.
My (possibly uninformed) assumptions first -
1. There is an increasingly "litigation friendly" environment in (not just)
the USA
2. Sport Aviation is probably seen by nonparticipants as a "target rich"
environment for such litigation. A kit manufacturer deemed as "successful"
by the industry could be a more likely target than a builder whose spent all
their money on building a plane.
3. Kit manufacturers probably walk a thin line between profit, sustained
existence and bankruptcy. Even a succesful defence against any form of
litigation could force them out of business.
Now, consider this hypothetical scenario - Joe Smith builds an RV. He
crashes it on his first flight and kills himself. The grieving family
alleges negligence (or whatever) against Van's. A protracted court battle
ensues. Van's successfully defends himself by referring (in part) to the
various disclaimers signed by the late pilot builder. However, the cost of
the defence forces Van to close up shop.
Result of this hypothetical scenario, thousands of builders around the world
are left with no way to finish their aircraft. Together, these builders
stand to lose millions of dollars, not to mention time, emotional distress
(*grin*).
Question 1.
Could these builders submit a class action suit against Joes family for
damages?
Question 2.
If Joes family had been successful in their suit against the kit
manufacturer, would this change the answer to Q1?
Question 3.
Could the possibility of such a class action be used to dissuade people from
taking out frivoulous suits against manufacturers, or is this somewhat
unethical? Or would this be the responsibility of the families lawyer to
advise them of the potential downside to their suit?
--- tony's reply ---
Chris:
Good questions. First, (thankfully) most of the world hasn't followed the
U.S. the the edge of economic suicide by self-imposed products-liability
law. Much of this is the outgrowth of rigid Constitutional constraints on
innovation in judicial procedures. For example, anyone has a right to try
any suit for damages to a jury. Can't change that without amending the
Constitution. Add to that further Constitutional restraints on jury
selection (intelligence,
education, common sense, even literacy aren't prerequisites and one cannot
even limit jury pool sourcing to driver's license rolls, voter registration
rolls, telephone books -- all economically discriminatory).
We've largely tossed out the old Common Law doctrines that used to limit
stupid lawsuits, like the contributory negligence rule. It used to be that
if one's own negligence was PARTLY contributory to the injury, one had no
remedy. Now, one's own negligence merely reduces the recovery even if it
rises to 99% in most jurisdictions. You can rear-end another driver and
claim he was 1% at fault for suddenly stopping, I'm afraid. You may not
recover much, but you can impose a lot of expense.
Fortunately, the pendulum is swinging back, with limits on noneconomic
damages, with the spread of the Economic Loss Rule (which says that if you
have a contract, you can only sue under it and NOT for negligence, and that
in effect, contractual limitations on damage recoveries are often
enforceable).
Anyway, on the issue of a third-party action by "victims" of the failure of
a manufacturer, no chance. Even if the case were frivolous, there would be
no standing (and if it had gotten that far, it would clearly not be seen as
frivolous anyway). If they won, by definition the case was meritorious.
What protects most Exp-aviation manufacturers and indeed builders is simple
economics. The big guys like Van have liability coverage AND the volume to
support both that and the research to back up their defense of the design.
Van's design is very tough to attack, his material use is conservative and
he "manufactures" in the normal sense, very little. He takes stock
materials with clearly-specified characteristics, does some cutting and
punching (not to minimize the effort or value) which doesn't change the
underlying material characteristics and then lets the builder proceed to
assemble it. If you can't attack the design without attacking every
certified aircraft as well (Van's are better in almost every category),
can't attack the materials which are conventional or the construction
methods (ditto), all you can attack is the failure of materials not meeting
spec and having a concealed flaw.
Putting aside the right to pass that liability on the the ultimate
manufacturer of the materials, it's tough to argue that a flaw which the
builder couldn't spot should have been caught by Van's. Should he x-ray
every piece of aluminum (if one think's the cost is merited one can of
course do so oneself.)
Then, of course, there's the contract disclaimer. Largely enforceable
unless one can show a severely negligent practice, misrepresentation, etc.
You ARE the manufacturer and accepting responsibility for the product is not
unreasonable. Your reliance on Van is really for the design and materials
selection, right? And both are pretty solid.
So who's gonna sue? The case will be well-defended by the insurer and the
defense enthusiastically supported by the company and 1000 other builders (I
can see a hundred of them flying in to the trial, doing aerobatics over the
courthouse). It's a tough case and, even if lost, the insurer pays. Yes,
the premiums go up. More likely, the case fails or the recover never
justifies the effort and expense, and the next guy doesn't even try.
The same thing applies to most other biggies, say Stoddard-Hamilton, Tri-C,
Lancair, etc.
Now, what if they DO succeed? These folks have smart lawyers. To the
extent the design is capable of being protected by patents or other
proprietary rights, they won't be owned by the company but by another entity
that leases or licenses them to it. Most of the equipment will either be
leased from a leasing company (an affiliate) or will be "owned" but will be
collateral for a loan by the original funding sources: usually a money
limited partner or two. The minute the company becomes insolvent, all its
assets will be repossessed by the secured creditor, the company taken over
and liquidated and a new company established to carry on. The trade
creditors will be paid from the proceeds actually available, if any. ALL
THIS IS PERFECTLY LEGITIMATE, AS LONG AS THERE REALLY WAS FUNDING FROM A
SOURCE THAT IS OWED ENOUGH TO EXCEED THE LIQUIDATION VALUE OF THE ASSETS.
That is trivially simple and usually occurs anyway.
With smaller companies, the planning is poorer, but the recovery is unlikely
anyway. In the case of Berkut, the bankruptcy trustee actually abandoned
the composite molds as valueless, and the design wasn't patentable nor
saleable. Most just fold during the course of a litigation and are in
business again before it's over.
Now, where there's a certified design, things are very different. One
stands behind every rivet, and one has very valuable intangible assets.
Recall that Piper's assets were never put on the block and indeed offers of
purchase THAT EXCEEDED LIABILITIES were refused, and instead the major
creditors simply put together a deal that converted their accounts into
capital and became owners. They KNEW they'd get all their money and more
that way.
On the issue of individual builder liability, it's much murkier, mostly
because individuals have differing economic profiles. It is usually easy to
remain judgment-proof in the U.S. at least. If Florida, for example, one
merely needs keep all assets in the name of husband and wife and they cannot
be reached by a creditor of only husband. We also have unlimited homestead
exemptions, etc. Most states have enough loopholes of one kind or another
to protect the family of one who has a legitimate misfortune (as opposed to
theft or fraud, where the assets can be followed as proceeds).
One should be able to sell one's own aircraft under an agreement that
exculpates one in MOST jurisdictions, and the issue is one of marketing. I
can sell it to you as salvage, provide that you have all obligations of
inspection and bear all risks, etc. Problem is, if the aircraft kills
someone else who wasn't a party to it the agreement (a passenger, say), the
airplane wasn't scrapped in fact and all knew it wouldn't be scrapped (look
at the price, for example) some jurisdictions would permit possible recovery
IF negligence could be proved. Say, for example (this is a real case) it
turns out that most of the plies of fiberglass holding the horizontal
stabilizer on were omitted?
This is one reason why composite aircraft, at least those which aren't
mostly prefabbed, have relatively low resale value (and as time goes on, why
they decline). It's impossible to properly inspect all structural parts.
No such problem with and RV, right?
Again, these are personal decisions, but there's reason RV's bring more than
their cost of construction on resale, when most experimentals don't. You
know what you have, and it's expected economic life is at least comparable
to a certified aircraft. If maintained, there is in fact no chronological
life-limit, though you could argue there must be one in use [30,000 hours??
a century of use? :) ]
Your best protection on resale is to have proper documentation and photos of
the assembly, inspections by a good tech consultant a few times, proof that
you followed the plans correctly, then a proper inspection before resale and
a good agreement. {When selling an RV, you should have the bargaining
position to dictate a take-it-or-leave-it disclaimer, because the buyer
knows what he's buying and is relying on the design and materials and
inspection, not on your word that you did it right. You might have to limit
the total disclaimer to the airframe to avoid an inference that you're
hiding some defect in the engine, for example, and simply represent that
there are no known engine problems.)
Then it's a matter of having done what you ought to have done by the time
you have a net worth capable of being a target; think through your form of
ownership and local exemptions. Many people, for example, have family
trusts or limited partnerships or (what amounts to the same thing in
practice sometimes) keep most things in the wife's name -- a practice I
don't recommend due to both divorce statistics and the liability attendant
to operating a motor vehicle. What do you do when SHE gets sued for a
traffic accident? These questions are local in nature, by jurisdiction, but
always have answers. The usual one is to keep HER car in her name and YOURS
in your own, and not drive each others' because most jurisdictions hold the
owner liable along with the driver, thereby eliminating the protection
otherwise available.
As you can see, there's a lot more that could be said about this, but the
bottom line is this: [personal comment removed] people only get sued when
the plaintiff's lawyer sees a pot of gold. If there's insurance coverage,
there's a likely payoff, but so also defense coverage and indemnity, at
least up to policy limits. Most cases can be settled within policy limits,
partly because an insurer who refuses to do so where the case clearly merits
it, may be sued by its OWN insured, and because most people aren't worth
pursuing further.
[personal comments removed]
Tony Pucillo
____
Chris Hinch Phone: +64-3-477-2995
Animation Research Ltd Fax: +64-3-479-9751
Systems Manager e-mail: chinch(at)arl.co.nz
442 Moray Place, PO Box 5580, Dunedin, New Zealand
RV-8 Builder #80630
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony Wiebe <awiebe(at)cadvision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
I seem to remember reading that RTV silicons have properties that cause or at
least assist in the corrosion process. I would followup on this by contacting one
on the major manufacturers such as GE or Loctite before applying.
Best Regards,
Anthony
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> >What's RTV? I'm about to start my rudder, where do I get it?
> >
> >Moe Colontonio
> >
> >Aaron Gleixner wrote:
> >>
>
> >>
> >> I am working on the elevators for my RV8 and was wondering if I need
> to put RTV at the trailing edge of the stiffeners similar to the rudder.
> The manual does not say to do this for the elevators, but the
> construction is similar to the rudder. If cracking is a problem for the
> rudder, it seems it would be a problem for the elevators as well. Has
> anyone else been putting RTV in the elevators?
> >>
> >> Aaron Gleixner
> >> RV-8
>
> I used RTV on the rudder only. I'm hoping the thicker skins on the tail
> control surfaces (as opposed to the -6) will hold up OK even without it.
> If not, I guess I'll get to "polish up" on my building skills some day.
>
> Moe, RTV is that gooey, silicone glue that smells like vinegar and stays
> flexible after it cures. It supposedly helps to dampen out any
> vibrations that can crack the skins around the skin stiffeners. It can
> be found at auto stores or Home Depot in the adhesives aisle.
>
> Brian Denk
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
Forget about pitch numbers with the wood props. There is too much variation
between prop manufacturers. You can talk pitch with an individual prop maker
but to compare XX pitch between to completely different manufacturers is
almost meaningless. The wood prop makers can hardly make two XX pitch props
of their own that have the same performance.
Weight and Balance seems to be a common concern of -4 drivers. About the best
prop you can get for a -4 is the Sensenich prop. It does everything well and
gives you a useful 40 lb. (with spinner) weight at the front end.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | New RV conversion! |
charset="us-ascii"
Have you all heard about the New twin RV-6 Mod?
Here is the deal....
Twin engine V-6 Chevy on one side, Lycoming on the other
Ivo Prop on one side Constant speed on the other, You pick...
(wood prop runs the alternator)
Retractable gear, all three independently controlled
4-seats If you solo from the rear it is a tail dragger, If you solo from the
front It is a trike.
fuses on the radios, circuit breakers on the lights
King radio, Narco xponder, Garmin Gps, Apollo Loran, Terra backup for
everything
Marhyde primer on the outside, Sherman Williams on the inside.
Tip up canopy on the front seats slider in back
Fuel Injection to the front cylinders carbs for the back ones
Electronic Ignition opposite the fuel injection
And my personal favorite feature:
When the engines quit it has a device that locks the controls so you can't
turn back!
This was designed by a lurker who knew nothing about airplanes, but learned
a lot from this list.
If there is anyone's toes I missed I'm sorry! I'll try harder next time!
For more entertaining nonsense, and some good sense, join us on the
RV-chat. Nightly around 03:00Z
If you don't know how to hook up Check the archive. ;-)
If we can't laugh at ourselves we won't
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh, no--primer |
1-800-SWULTRA
They can put you in touch with a local distributor. I use the 988 and I love it,
much easier then mixing, cleaning, etc.
Moe Colontonio
RV-8 VS
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
> Avery no longer carries Marhyde, self etching primer. In my saved notes,
> I see that some other builders have had good luck with Sherwin Williams 988
> self etching primer which is less costly than the Marhyde. Can someone give
> give me the phone number of someone who will ship either Marhyde or the S-W
> primer? There are no "local" paint stores where I live.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 400 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
<< Nice Prop, but wish it would go higher on the RPM straight and level. >>
Sounds like you have a "cruise" prop. Repitching - or shortening the prop 2
inches - would probably improve your climb performance and increase your RPM
in cruise with the result being the same cruise speed. Thats right, more rpm
but same speed. The advantage to the pitch that you have now is that you get
good fuel burn but at the expense of climb performance. What is more
important?
IMHO, I would repitch the prop because (assuming an average weight -4) you
should be getting about 1500 fpm (or more) on a 70 degree day, solo.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh, no--primer |
> Avery no longer carries Marhyde, self etching primer. In my saved notes,
>I see that some other builders have had good luck with Sherwin Williams 988
>self etching primer which is less costly than the Marhyde. Can someone give
>give me the phone number of someone who will ship either Marhyde or the S-W
>primer? There are no "local" paint stores where I live.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 400 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
Bob,
Been using Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash Primer and Catalyst Reducer
mixed 1 to 2.5 for 2 1/2 years. Just started using "Sherwin Williams 988
GBP Self Etching Primer" in a spray can on small parts as a replacement for
Marhyde and like it. Same hard finish like the S/W Industrial Wash Primer.
However, it is gray not green.
When I picked it up in Portland, I asked Ron Plumb if they would ship to RV
builders and he said yes. Here is his business card:-
The Sherwin-Williams Company
510 North Russell Street
Portland, OR 97227
503 288-6096
Fax 503 288 1847
Ron Plumb
Branch Manager
I asked if he would give a special discounted to RV builders and he said he
would think about it so you might ask again.
Bob Haan
bobh(at)cdac.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Fuse out of jig, working on Engine Mount
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass work |
<< Would anyone who has used the West System epoxy on their fiberglass work
care to comment on the following:
1. Can it be used for all the fiberglass work, including the canopy?>>
Bruce-
I have used the West (Gougeon Bros) Epoxy primarily for small fill areas. Use
microballoons, chopped E-glass or fumed silica to tailor the hardness you
need. It has poor high temp performance compared to the better resins.
Vinylester is the best high temp material and bonds well to the polyester
parts Van's supplies. This is what I used.
<< 2. How much would you estimate would be needed to do all the fiberglass
work on an RV?>>
About a gallon max.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<< It's a useful tool, but nowhere near as useful as the 800
plus builders here with up to date information. >>
My opinion is that possibly the "archive" should be edited from time to time,
to clean up the content.(stuff like congratulatory messages, etc.)
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
Listers:
We're planning dual left throttles/right sticks on the RV-6 after my
fiancee took me for a little acro ride in a Robin Sport configured this
way, and loved the setup.
So it looks like we'll be using the Infinity grips with as much HOTAS as
possible. I've searched several manufacturer's web pages, but can't seem
to weed out which radios support both frequency selection and flip-flop
using remote switches.
Can anybody recommend any that do (prefer gps/comm combo but the remote
comm capability is more important), and any comments on how exactly you
have *your* Infinity grip or the like hooked up function-wise (speak up
Suzie Q )?
Thanks,
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Carburetor Ice Detectors |
In the process of evolving the design of my instrument panel, I noticed
an item in the Panel Planner database called the Iceman Carburetor Ice
Detector from Iceman Aviation Supplies. It costs $299. I have roughly
four square inches of panel space left, so I thought I'd try to fill it
up just for the sake of completeness (:^). Does anyone know anything
about this or any similar device? Would it be worth installing one in
an IFR-equipped aircraft? How do they work?
Thanks.
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
<< I seem to remember reading that RTV silicons have properties that cause or
at
least assist in the corrosion process. >>
I would check the archives on this. I believe that the there is no
possibility of corrosion in the "cured" state.
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVHI <RVHI(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh, no--primer |
ABC Auto Paint Supply in Salt Lake City, Ut carries Marhyde. Ph# 801- 466-9195
I don't know if they ship, but at least it's close to Wyoming. Aerosol &
cans.
L. Adamson RV6A - fusalage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D Hiatt" <ottopilot_msn(at)email.msn.com> |
The recent conversation about propellers reminded me of something I saw at
Oshkosh two years ago, but missed last summer: The QCS propeller. I don't
remember who was building it but it's a composite prop with lots of
computer thought behind it, to make each blade more an exact duplicate than
has been possible before.
But the big draw, to me, was the way the thing was built. As load and rpm
change, the pitch angle of the blades changes, too. Talking with the guy a
couple of years ago they were saying that they were getting about
three-quarters of the constant-speed advantage with about a third of the
weight and about half of the cost. It sounded perfect, to me. You bolt it
on once and wipe the bugs off, pocketing that overhaul money.
Does anyone remember these folks? Are they still around? Is the prop
development progressing? Were they at Oshkosh last summer?
Just something I thought about, while shoveling 13" of snow this afternoon.
--
Mark D Hiatt Visit us on the new MSN v2.5!
OttoPilot_MSN@msn.com http://Forums.msn.com/Aviation
Aviation Forum Manager, AvChat Mondays 10pm Eastern
The Microsoft Network
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
| Subject: | RTV on Elevators |
One thing to remember is that when you goop all that RTV into the trailing
edge you're blocking the natural drainage path for water!!
I forgot to leave some kind of passage so I'll be now drilling a small hole
right into the bottom elevator skins at the trailing edge. Hope I don't
whistle too loudly as I pass by!
One thing I thought of later was that I could have used a small section of a
plastic soda straw crammed into the trailing edge to keep an open passage
for the natural draining action of the control surface. My IA is pretty
strict with keeping the drains on my other plane unblocked as water
accumulation there promotes corrosion and can freeze creating an unbalanced
situation.
-Mike
#80047
>
> I seem to remember reading that RTV silicons have properties that cause or
> at
> least assist in the corrosion process. I would followup on this by
> contacting one
> on the major manufacturers such as GE or Loctite before applying.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Anthony
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
I believe that somewhere in my RV-6A tail kit manual it says to use the
Ultra Blue made by Permatex or equivalent. It is non-corrosive. Some is.
Suggest you check it out before you use it. Ultra Blue is a silicone gasket
material and is commonly available at auto parts stores.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>>What's RTV? I'm about to start my rudder, where do I get it?
>>
>>Moe Colontonio
>>
>>Aaron Gleixner wrote:
>>>
>>> I am working on the elevators for my RV8 and was wondering if I need
>to put RTV at the trailing edge of the stiffeners similar to the rudder.
>The manual does not say to do this for the elevators, but the
>construction is similar to the rudder. If cracking is a problem for the
>rudder, it seems it would be a problem for the elevators as well. Has
>anyone else been putting RTV in the elevators?
>>>
>>> Aaron Gleixner
>>> RV-8
>
>I used RTV on the rudder only. I'm hoping the thicker skins on the tail
>control surfaces (as opposed to the -6) will hold up OK even without it.
>If not, I guess I'll get to "polish up" on my building skills some day.
>
>Moe, RTV is that gooey, silicone glue that smells like vinegar and stays
>flexible after it cures. It supposedly helps to dampen out any
>vibrations that can crack the skins around the skin stiffeners. It can
>be found at auto stores or Home Depot in the adhesives aisle.
>
>Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh, no--primer |
> Avery no longer carries Marhyde, self etching primer. In my saved notes,
>I see that some other builders have had good luck with Sherwin Williams 988
>self etching primer which is less costly than the Marhyde. Can someone
give
>give me the phone number of someone who will ship either Marhyde or the S-W
>primer? There are no "local" paint stores where I live.
Another excellent and handy primer is available at NAPA auto stores. It is
their Martin Senour Self-Etching primer (model #7220). $5 for a 15 oz can.
Goes on very smooth dries in 2 minutes. Is more durable than Vari-Prime
(but does not advertise any corrosion-resistance).
Doug Weiler, Mn Wing
RV-4 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Where can I find some good examples of paint schemes for an RV-4? Thanks
in advance.
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
<< you're blocking the natural drainage path for water!!
>>
Very good point. Thanks for mentioning this.
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV conversion! |
Doug, is the new RV conversion available in a Quick Build kit
chet
--
Abby Razer
Barbara Razer
Molly the Dog and
Chet Razer
razer(at)midwest.net
http://scribers.midwest.net/razer/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
----------
> I have the 70 X 70 almost constant speed prop from Warnke on an o320 e2d
> 150hp.
> Static RPM is 2325
> Cruise RPM is 2500 and will not go over.
>
> I can vary the power quite a bit, about 2 in mp. and it will stay at 2500.
> Climb on a 70 degree day is 1200 solo. Cruise is 180 to 185 mph. Nice
> Prop, but wish it would go higher on the RPM straight and level. Been
> through hard rain, clear ice and rime ice. The prop and me do not like the
> rime ice, rime ice stalled the prop and had to reduce power a lot to keep
> from the red line.
>
> I did get the harmic ballancer, did not do anything for the prop, except
> moving my cg forward, which is what I wanted.
> N69KG with 350 hours since Jan 96.
Ken,
I wasn't going to respond to your e-mail on your 70X70 Warnke ACS but I
couldn't help myself. You see, I run a Warnke ACS 70X70 on my 0-320-E3D.
The numbers I get are completely different from yours. I'm not saying you don't
know what your numbers are. I'm saying Warnke would be the last Prop maker
I would have thought would make two completely different props that have the
same pitch and length. I guess it goes to show what alot of people are saying
is true. (no two are alike).
My prop static's at 2500 rpm. Red lines at 2800 rpm. Cruses at 178mph
(75%)
And when I weighed 200, it would climb out over 1700 fpm. Now I weigh 250 and
it climbs out at 1300 fpm. I have been nothing but tickled with my prop choice.
In fact I just got back from Kokomo , where I bought Dennis Shirley's
Warnke
70X74 ACS he had for sale. I had been so impressed with Dennis's prop after
he outclimbed and outrun me so bad last summer, that when he bought a new
Sensenich I jumped at the chance of buying his. (Don't think Warnke will be
building any more, not from what I've heard about him being sick)
Sorry this message was so long but I thought you might be interested.
Jim Nolan ( Going to 160 hp at overhaul time )
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
-----Original Message-----
From: John B. Abell <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Carburetor Ice Detectors
>
>In the process of evolving the design of my instrument panel, I noticed
>an item in the Panel Planner database called the Iceman Carburetor Ice
>Detector from Iceman Aviation Supplies. It costs $299. I have roughly
>four square inches of panel space left, so I thought I'd try to fill it
>up just for the sake of completeness (:^). Does anyone know anything
>about this or any similar device? Would it be worth installing one in
>an IFR-equipped aircraft? How do they work?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jack Abell
I have an ARP ice detector in my Skyhawk; the Iceman is an updated version
with voltage regulator so one doesn't have to adjust sensitivity threshold
as the load varies (landing lights, for instance). It consists of a light
source and a phototransistor in a probe that screws into a hole already
tapped into an M-S or modern replacement carb. When ice forms the light
beam is attenuated and a Sonalert and light goes on.
I installed it because I had a scary experience over mountains in my
previous 150. I often detect ice in the Skyhawk carb under conditions when
I wouldn't expect it (like full power climb and ground operations) but LONG
before there would be any detectable RPM drop.
I don't think I will put one in my 6A because the induction system layout in
the RVs seem less prone to icing -- some are better (Pipers for instance),
some are worse (Skylanes particularly bad).
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Barrington, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Wings |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I need to make some room in my garage, and I was thinking of hanging my
> finished wings on the wall. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you do it?
Paul,
I'm just starting my wings. However, I needed to make space in my loft
for the wing kit so I built racks for all the tail parts on the wall. I
intend to do the same for the wings, ailerons & flaps. I can email you a
photo of my setup if you'd like. I can't send photos to the RV List [It
chokes on graphics :-)]
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings studying plans 7 deburring parts
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
<19980308.181134.6462.4.SMCDANIELS(at)juno.com>
| From: | rvpilot(at)juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
OK Scott, I'll buy that. It looks as if those of us of the taildragger
persuasion will have to remove our tail wheels and install skids in order
to compete.
Regards, Bill
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Footwells & rudder trim |
| From: | rvpilot(at)juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Hi Greg,
Pardon me for not responding to this before. I tried the spring on the
rudder cable idea on an earlier 4. It was moderatly successful. The
spring has to be quite heavy- -
more than you would imagine. With the spring that I wound up with, the
net effect was about 1\4 ball deflection either side of center with full
travel of the adjusting screw. This was enough to compensate for a rear
seat passenger.It was necessary to adjust the fixed rudder trim wedge to
get the spring range in the middle. Final opinion? It just wasn't worth
it and I left it off the latest 4.
For the foot wells, make a posterboard pattern. Try to design it so the
part that your sole rests on is at a natural angle. Locate it as far
foreward as possible without interfering with the aileron push pull
tubes. It can be bent up from 1 piece of metal but 2 makes life easier.
Regards, Bill, RV4 N66WD
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV conversion! |
Man Doug, that one just really screwed up the archive. :)
Moe Colontonio
RV-8 VS Skinning (just learned that a claw hammerhead will double as a
bucking bar in a pinch)
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
> Have you all heard about the New twin RV-6 Mod?
>
> Here is the deal....
> Twin engine V-6 Chevy on one side, Lycoming on the other
> Ivo Prop on one side Constant speed on the other, You pick...
> (wood prop runs the alternator)
> Retractable gear, all three independently controlled
> 4-seats If you solo from the rear it is a tail dragger, If you solo from the
> front It is a trike.
> fuses on the radios, circuit breakers on the lights
> King radio, Narco xponder, Garmin Gps, Apollo Loran, Terra backup for
> everything
> Marhyde primer on the outside, Sherman Williams on the inside.
> Tip up canopy on the front seats slider in back
> Fuel Injection to the front cylinders carbs for the back ones
> Electronic Ignition opposite the fuel injection
>
> And my personal favorite feature:
> When the engines quit it has a device that locks the controls so you can't
> turn back!
>
> This was designed by a lurker who knew nothing about airplanes, but learned
> a lot from this list.
>
> If there is anyone's toes I missed I'm sorry! I'll try harder next time!
>
> For more entertaining nonsense, and some good sense, join us on the
> RV-chat. Nightly around 03:00Z
> If you don't know how to hook up Check the archive. ;-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV on Elevators |
<< Room Temperature Vinyl, usually blue. >>
Not quite. It stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing (unrelated to vinyl in
any form). Further, it comes in Clear, White, Grey, Black, Copper, Blue, Red
and probably tutti-fruiti.
Don't get wrapped around the axle on the corrosive vs non-corrosive recipes.
Both work fine with aluminum IMO. This was an issue primarily with copper
when used with electronic circuitry.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Wings |
RBusick505 wrote:
>
> << need to make some room in my garage, and I was thinking of hanging my
> finished wings on the wall. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you do it?
> >>
>
> I use a long galvanized pipe through the lightening holes
What a marvelously elegant idea! When I get back home to the Bay Area,
I'm gonna kiss you! I've been agonizing over how to get my wing off the
jig safely ever since I've finished it. I've now finished the cradle
for it and the aileron and flap of the other wing and once the skeleton
of the right wing is done I'll need to use the jig. You've really made
my day.
Ok, just so you won't stay awake nights worrying, I was just kidding
about the kiss. :) But that is still a fantastic idea. Way to go.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | RTV on Elevators |
>What's RTV? I'm about to start my rudder, where do I get it?
>
>Moe Colontonio
>
Moe,
RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. This is the super
chemist/rocket scientist way of describing regular old silicone. I used it
liberally at the trailing edge of all my stiffeners. The idea is to
"encase" the ends of the stiffeners and the skin in the stuff so they won't
work around as much during flight. The thin skin will have a tendency to
"drum" or oscillate under certain conditions. This can cause cracking at
the aft rivet on the stiffener. I use RTV at work on a daily basis, so I
have plenty of half-empty tubes of it that I used. It is available at your
local auto parts store or if you're interested, I use GM part #12346192.
This particular part # is for sealing the front and rear of GM intake
manifolds, but it works well on control surfaces. It is firm, but quite
pliable when cured.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
John B. Abell wrote:
>
>
> I noticed
> an item in the Panel Planner database called the Iceman Carburetor Ice
> Detector from Iceman Aviation Supplies. Does anyone know anything
> about this or any similar device? Would it be worth installing one in
> an IFR-equipped aircraft? How do they work?
>
A friend has one in his Cessna 140. He says it works. Uses an optical
sensor in the carburetor (in the carb temp 'hole')-only goes off when it
'sees' something. When I fly with him it seems to go off too much to me
-like it reacts to condensate that collects on its little mirror when
the throttle is quickly opened or something. Heck mabye that's ice...
Definitely on the safe side. Like everything in aviation it seems kinda
pricy $$ I'd put the money toward fuel injection myself, and use my carb
heat a lot in the meantime...
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harry E.\"Bud\" Hawkins" <hawkbud(at)gate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh, no--primer |
Bob
try Fasco Dist
1815 Coquina dr
Sarasota FL
1-941-924-9292 I have purchased self etch grey & works great
Bud Hawkins N400BH now at 20 hrs and based at SRQ
----------
> From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Oh, no--primer
> Date: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 2:11 PM
>
>
> Avery no longer carries Marhyde, self etching primer. In my saved
notes,
> I see that some other builders have had good luck with Sherwin Williams
988
> self etching primer which is less costly than the Marhyde. Can someone
give
> give me the phone number of someone who will ship either Marhyde or the
S-W
> primer? There are no "local" paint stores where I live.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 400 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
> My opinion is that possibly the "archive" should be edited from time to
time,
> to clean up the content.(stuff like congratulatory messages, etc.)
There is an easier solution, as requested by Matt continually in
both the rv-list FAQ and the "tip of the day". Don't post such messages to
the list (but by all means do so personally) and then no clean up would be
needed.
Just an observation from someone trying to respect the list owner's
rules/requests. After all, I'm a guest here as all of us are (thanks Matt
for the great resource).
Rob (RV-6Q).
carb ice
detectors. As I remember, they don't actually detect the ice, they're
basically thermometers that measure the air temp within the carb venturi.
One they pictured had an analog display with freezing down to about
-10 or -15 degress C marked off in red. The other was just an idiot light.
Theory says you pay attention to the temperature and turn on carb heat as
required to keep the temp out of the danger zone.
Note that you do NOT need to be in IFR conditions to encounter carb ice.
All you need is sufficiently moist air such that the dew point is above
the venturi temperature and the venturi temp is freezing or below.
In my infinite experience flying spam cans :-) I've come to rely on a poor
mans carb ice detector. In questionable weather, about every 10 or 15
minutes, I pull the carb heat. If the RPM drops more than 150 revs, then
climbs a little, I *had* carb ice. Note that I do not know how fast the
ice can really form, so this might not really be as much protection as I
like to think.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear-seat Rudder Pedals |
| From: | fitton(at)juno.com (Robert D Fitton) |
A few months ago I posted a question about the value of RSRP and asked if
there were any good designs being used. I received many thoughtful
answers that supported arguments both for and against installing them.
I'd like to summarize what I have learned from postings on the list and
subsequent discussions in my hanger.
The question is in two parts: (1) Is it useful to install RSRP in an
RV-4? (2) Are there any good designs available to do so?
(1) Most of the arguments in favor centered around the PIC (me) becoming
incapacitated and the rear-seater having to save us both by landing the
plane. This is really an exercise in conditional probability. What is
the probability that I will become incapacitated while flying my RV-4?
Given that it happens, what is the probability that I'll have someone in
the back seat? Given that there is someone there, what is the
probability that he/she can safely land the airplane from the back seat
using the questioned rear-seat rudder pedals thereby saving us both? In
my view, knowing the way I intend to fly my RV-4, the probability of all
this happening approaches zero. Doesn't quite make it but approaches it.
The person with whom I share the hanger has a beautiful RV-4 in which
I've had the pleasure of flying a few times. He is a retired Air Force
fighter pilot who loves to do aerobatics in the plane. He can hardly
wait until I've finished my bird so he can teach me aerobatics prior to
us doing air combat maneuvering. He thinks he can get to and stay on my
"six" regardless of what I do. He may be right. The issue is, however,
that he can't teach me aerobatics in my airplane without RSRP's. To me,
and I emphasize TO ME, this makes a compelling argument. It does bring
up the question of a design for a good installation.
(2) I've not seen any designs that are light weight and unobtrusive for
the rear-seater who doesn't fly and needs the foot space to put his/her
feet. (I keep hoping there will be a "her" back there occasionally). If
anyone has a design which they like that meets these criteria, light
weight and not in the way of non-pilots, I'd sure like to hear of it.
One RVer responded to my earlier posting, which I really appreciate, and
sent me a set of drawings he thinks may have come from Vans. They look
good but fail on both issues.
Because of the desire to take aerobatics training in my own airplane, I
would like to have RSRP's installed. Once more, are there any good
designs out there that work for the person who installed them?
Bob Fitton
RV-4 about to hang the engine but still able to install the pedals
Off list: fitton(at)vegas.infi.net
Fax: (702) 255-2163
Voice: (702) 255-1820
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144 <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Design Modifications |
I'm currently working on the fuse for my RV-6 slider and am considering a
couple of modifications from the "standard" configuration. These are:
1) Tilting instrument panel - like the one installed on the Young Eagle's
RV-6A.
2) Dual throttles.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from anyone who made these modifications.
In particular, I would be interested in sketches, parts call outs, etc.
Kyle Boatright
Just made my first unintentional scrap out of a fuse part...grrrrr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Jim, would you be interested in selling one of those props? I'm
still waiting for my sterba to get here, but, the warnke sounds
real good. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
>
> I had finished my RV-6 empanage and wings by 1997 and decided to build a
> RV-6A instead of a RV-6.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A fuselage in the jig,
> All bottom and side skins drilled and in place!
Sorry to hear that Steve. If I had been on here then you be checked out
now.
DON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
I have one in my Piper ... comments below.
James
> In the process of evolving the design of my instrument panel, I noticed
> an item in the Panel Planner database called the Iceman Carburetor Ice
> Detector from Iceman Aviation Supplies. It costs $299. I have roughly
> four square inches of panel space left, so I thought I'd try to fill it
> up just for the sake of completeness (:^). Does anyone know anything
> about this or any similar device? Would it be worth installing one in
> an IFR-equipped aircraft? How do they work?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jack Abell
> Los Angeles
> RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
>
I am fairly sure that's the model I have. Its operation is based on an LED
and a detector inserted in the carburetor. At startup you set the threshold
for the audible warning to go off and back off a bit. When ice builds up
and reduces the sensed light the warning sounds.
They show a video at SnF and OSH and it is quite impressive to see how much
ice builds up inside a carburetor and how much is there before the engine
starts running rough.
I got it due to my feeling that carb ice had sneaked up on me one clear,
humid day in Florida as I was entering the pattern. Unlike the Cessna
books, the Piper book with my plane does NOT say "carb heat" on landing,
instead something like "at the first sign of carb ice" (don't quote me ...I
may be off a little).
It can be useful IFR **or** VFR!! It gave me peace of mind for the time
period of my icing worries and was therefore worth it to me. Again, I tend
NOT to turn it on now, but it is there if I need it.
James
RV6A-QB ... rudder done
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Selling Your RV |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Scott...
>
>What are the liability issues involved in selling a homebuilt? Do you
>have
>to lay awake at night wondering if you are going to get a nasty gram
>from an
>attorney someday?
>
>Bob
>6A empennage on order
>
>
>
>
Bob, the position that I take is basically as described in another post
that came out today.
I believe most of these type of cases are taken by lawyers on a
contingency/commission basis. The net worth/asset level that I am
currently at (and expect to ever be at) would be enticing enough for me
to have to worry. This may be false hope but I don't think so.
Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. Finally Sold!
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
Listers,
What is the general concensus about the O320 H2AD's? I just got my new
Trade-A-Plane and there's always a ton of them in there for cheap. Is this
for good reason as a "you get what you pay for" type of deal? I am building
a -6. What mods would have to be done to the cowl, mount, etc.?
Just curious. Not necessarily leaning this direction as I would like to go
with a C/S prop, which I don't think an H2AD will run.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Carburetor Ice Detectors |
>I installed it because I had a scary experience over mountains in my
>previous 150.
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Barrington, IL
>
>
I concur with Dennis. I also had a scary experience in a 150 not long ago
about 3 miles out over the Pacific Ocean. Full throttle, winging along, no
RPM drop and then all of a sudden the gerbils went on strike! Luckily,
standard emergency procedure got things going again. I guess all that
flight training does pay off.... All this to say that my RV WILL have some
form of carb ice monitor or detector system. I will be following this
thread closely.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W B Ward <WBWard(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
<< I concur with Dennis. I also had a scary experience in a 150 not long ago
about 3 miles out over the Pacific Ocean. Full throttle, winging along, no
RPM drop and then all of a sudden the gerbils went on strike! >>
That's how fast carb ice forms.
An ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure. Use carb heat, when you go
above cruise power, especially at altitudes below FL 10.
Carb ice usually takes place during high power settings, relatively high
humidity, and medium temps, like at takeoff. Protect against that. Use carb
heat.
Regards
The greasy nose picker.
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Cliffe <xcl80(at)dial.pipex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
John B. Abell wrote:
>
> I noticed an item in the Panel Planner database called the Iceman
Carburetor Ice Detector from Iceman Aviation Supplies. It costs $299.
Does anyone know anything about this or any similar device? Would it be
worth installing one in an IFR-equipped aircraft? How do they work?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jack Abell
> Los Angeles
> RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
>
John, ICEMAN,
Quoting from Nov.97 issue of FLYER ( UK Magasine )p.10,
".....Iceman works by sensing the light output of a super bright LED
within the carb. body, any build up of ice reducing the output and
kicking off a light and audio alarm. You can turn off the alarm but the
light only goes out when the ice has cleared ...
In England, Costs PStirling 265 ( !! )from Nord-Sud Aero Ltd, 68 Singer
Way, Woburn Road Industrial Estate, Kempston, Bedfordshire MK42 7AF
Tel UK 01234 840209 FAX 01234 840292
Hope this helps. Regards, Nick Cliffe, High Wycombe, England.
( considering an RV8 Quickbuild )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
>
> What is the general concensus about the O320 H2AD's?
I'm no engine expert, but did a lot of research on this engine before
buying one.
They seem to be fine provided all the mandatory AD's have been complied
with to fix the original problems (look for serial number ending in -76T),
you never start them cold (i.e. near or below freezing without preheat),
and fly them often. I came across several that are flying way beyond TBO
and still running strong, and you don't hear of 172's or Seminole's falling
out of the sky all the time do you? Check
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/C172.ENGINES.html for some really good
info on the H2AD from Greg Travis, as well as the rv-list archives.
This engine will not run c/s (the H1AD does). The mods required to fit an
RV-6 are the H2AD engine mount from Van's (which will fit *any* dynafocal I
mount engine you may wind up with), you may or may not need a small bump on
the cowl for fuel pump clearance, and the engine baffling is a little
different but Van's kit can be modified to fit.
Also, perform SB505B and have a signoff on the AD on any engine you
buy...don't get caught by it like I did. Fortunately, my source for the
engine specifically requested this to be checked before the engine was
shipped to me, it was not and he's correcting the situation
(whew...Lycomings "special" pricing on cranks needing replacement under
this AD is $5,800 !!!...outrageous).
Good luck,
Rob (RV-6Q).
lost the plane.
His tip to me was that if the engine ever quit because of carb ice, go full
hot on carb heat, and pump the *PRIMER* to get some fuel in the engine.
This generates heat for the exhaust to pre-heat the intake air. He claimed
that in some circumstances (like the ones described with the "sudden onset"
of carb ice) that there may not be enough heat left in the exhaust to melt
the ice in the carb before things get out of hand if you are close to the
ground. (Like maybe patrolling power and pipelines? )
To make this RV relevant, lets consider that we could "experiment" with
several ways to measure ice in the carb. The optical methods and
temperature methods,and the direct measurement method (like my examiner's
device) all have merits. Who has carb ice detectors on this list? What
kind?, Why did you choose it?, and how well does it work? (if you are flying)
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear-seat Rudder Pedals |
>
>(2) I've not seen any designs that are light weight and unobtrusive for
>the rear-seater who doesn't fly and needs the foot space to put his/her
>feet. (I keep hoping there will be a "her" back there occasionally). If
>anyone has a design which they like that meets these criteria, light
>weight and not in the way of non-pilots, I'd sure like to hear of it.
>One RVer responded to my earlier posting, which I really appreciate, and
>sent me a set of drawings he thinks may have come from Vans. They look
>good but fail on both issues.
I have thought about this often and wonder if temporary removable rudder
pedals are the answer. In my first RV4 as the front seat guy I never missed
them. Rear seat pilots always asked about them at the beginning of a ride
but afterwards I never heard someone say that he/she wanted them.
I wonder about a loop of cable clamped to the rudder cables at the rear seat
passengers foot position. This loop could incorporate some sort of toe clip
to keep the loop on your feet. After training the whole thing could be removed.
Tom Martin
HR2 flying this spring
Now, after studying this far, can't I use an "X" in my registration on my
aircraft?
Instead of N106RV, it would be NX106RV. With the "X" denoting experimental. So
when I contact ATC, "November xray one zero six romeo victor" would tell them
that I'm experimental, right? And the passage about being operated without
displaying marks in accordance with 45.21 and 45.23 through 45.33 would allow
me to omit the 2" letters spelling "experimental" located in the cabin or
cockpit. Has anyone else seen this?
Mark "studying the far's" LaBoyteaux
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
RV-6A "NX106RV"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim R. Stone" <Stonedog(at)compuserve.com> |
Gary,
You said you put a "pretty big piece of conduit" thru your wings. How big
is it? Did you use PVC? Did you use the white variety or the gray?
Details man, I need details!
Thanks,
Jim
Rocket wings
Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
Louis,
Check out the RV Photo Album section of the "RV Journal":
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
Louis Willig wrote:
>
> examples of paint schemes for an RV-4? Thanks in advance.
>
> Louis I. Willig
> larywil(at)home.com
> (610) 668-4964
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "taborek" <taborek(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Faster RVs Change of Address |
A few weeks ago I posted a three part note on flight test procedures to
measure if the new Framus you installed makes your RV go faster. I offered
to help with the analysis if anyone was interested.
Shortly after my Email service failed and I have been off the list for two
weeks. I am now back with a new address, namely taborek(at)pathcom.com.
Ron Taborek Rv-4 Installing O-320 Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
Couple of questions on the bracket we must fabricate to hang the rear part
of theVetterman cross-over exhaust system.
1. What did you use to make the bracket?
2. How did you make the rubber suspension part of it?
3. How much "movement" does this arrangement allow?
Thanks,
Bob Cabe RV-6
San Antonio
---
"The opinions expressed herein are solely the author's
and are not necessarily the opinions of USAA."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | priming and painting cabin |
I want to paint the inside of my cabin, and was curious to know if I should
prime and paint them while installed, or before I install them. Also,
which kind of primer, if any, and paint should I use?
thanks....
Paul Besing
RV-6A QB
local fire department for a donation of
ten dollars. I'll use this to hang me wings from the ceiling of the
hanger. A lamanated wood beam found in many garages would be a great place
to attach the hose.
As a former fire fighter, I can tell you the hose will likely have many
thing imbeddied in the outer lining (glass, wood splinters and or metal)
from years of being dragged around burning houses and car wrecks. So I'll
split the hose and place the inside rubber liner against mw wing.
Dave
RV-8 (8001)
fuel tanks
rv-8 (80001)
Up to my ears in pro seal!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
"The RV Journal" has introduced a new section on product reviews. You
may access this feature from the Front Page:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
It is also time for another reminder about submitting a photo or two of
your completed RV for inclusion in the RV Photo Album. Instant
celebrity-dom is assured.
Thanks,
Sam Buchanan (getting close to pro-sealing)
sbuc(at)traveller.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | dougr(at)petroblend.com |
Hey do they have a quickbuild for that yet?
;' )
G Fesenbek from RV (Ronaoke, Va.)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Denis Walsh [SMTP:dwalsh(at)ecentral.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 8:52 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: dougr(at)petroblend.com
>
>
> I like it but you should have mentioned another advantage of the
> conversion: It
> will take at least two generations to build so is entirely suited to
> those who
> would rather debate and build than fly any of the marvelous RV models
> that are
> available!
>
> 8=)
>
> DLW
>
> Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> > Have you all heard about the New twin RV-6 Mod?
> >
> > Here is the deal....
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors revisited |
----------
> From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
[stuff deleted]
> To make this RV relevant, lets consider that we could "experiment" with
> several ways to measure ice in the carb. The optical methods and
> temperature methods,and the direct measurement method (like my examiner's
> device) all have merits.
Who has carb ice detectors on this list?
++ JEC in a PIPER Archer II
What kind?,
++ LED in the carburetor throat
Why did you choose it?,
++ 1. Ingeneral: Concerns about icing (picked up during training in
Cessnas) & different view toward it in Pipers
++ 2. Particular type: Good video explaining the problem and efficacy of
their solution. Ease of installation. Adjustable threshold for
annunciation.
and how well does it work? (if you are flying)
++ Works almost too well! So well I tend to not turn it on these days (I do
at times I suspect there is a *chance*. By this I mean, it goes off when
there is ice buildup and that is LONG before your engine sounds or feels
rough. The trick is backing off enough so that you do not get nuisance
warnings. As mentioned in an earlier post, its greater value to me was/is
peace of mind. That value will vary from person to person.
>
>
>
> Bob Steward, A&P IA
> AA-1B N8978L
> AA-5A N1976L
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
>
> This engine is used in C-172 with fixed pitch props. These engines have
> alot of ADs out. I believe the most costly is the crankshaft corrosion
> AD. It appears that since this engine is for fixed pitch props,
Just to help clear up the continued misconceptions surrounding this
engine...the H2AD *had* a lot of AD's almost twenty years ago. Most all
were one-time mandatory AD's, the remaining H2AD's in service have long ago
complied with them so they are no longer an issue.
There are currently very few recurring AD's on the engine, and are of the
same nature that plague the entire Lycoming O-320/360 series
(i.e. mags, harnesses, etc.).
Regarding the crankshaft corrosion AD, it is not limited to the H2AD by a
long shot. Most all 160+ hp Lycoming O-320's and O-360's with hollow
crankshafts using fixed-pitch props are affected, making the H2AD a very
small minority population in this regard.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allen Duberstein <Allen_Duberstein(at)ccm.fm.intel.com> |
Text item:
I have a 320H2AD in my RV6A. The biggest issue I have with it is the
unit comes from a Skyhawk and cannot be fitted with a C.S. prop.
There is another -H2AD from a Piaggio (sp?) twin that actually has the
gov. pad machined and can be fitted with a c.s. prop. I think these
are VERY rare.
The classic AD issue with this engine relates to the 'automotive'
style lifters used. There was a rash of cam lobe spalling early on
that led Cessna to do a recall to fix the engines. Since then there
is an additive from Lycoming you can put in the oil. Or you can use
one of several multi viscosity oils (Shell 15W50). Also be kind and
preheat if OAT is below 35-40 degrees.
The crank AD is not a serious issue (in my opinion). least from the
view of expenses. It requires an insppection for pitting. If found
it then requires a crack test. At rebuild this can be terminated by
coating the inside of the crank. This same AD applies to ALL Lyc's
using a F.P. propeller and producting 160 or more H.P. The only
exceptions are those with solid cranks. The only way to avoid this is
to use a constant speed prop .... and that's more costly than a
crank.
allen
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com AT SMTPGATE on 03/11/98 08:32
Subject: RV-List: O320 H2AD
This engine is used in C-172 with fixed pitch props. These engines
have alot of ADs out. I believe the most costly is the crankshaft
corrosion AD. It appears that since this engine is for fixed pitch
props, the acids in the oil sit in the hollow crankshaft and
eventually eat the metal. If you read through the construction
manual, there is some very good information regarding engines. It has
a list from Lycoming with information on all the different models.
Robert
Athens, GA
Text item: External Message Header
The following mail header is for administrative use
and may be ignored unless there are problems.
***IF THERE ARE PROBLEMS SAVE THESE HEADERS***.
Subject: RV-List: O320 H2AD
From: "robert l. wadsworth" <rv6_wads(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:32:00 -0500
by thalia.fm.intel.com (8.8.6/8.8.5) with ESMTP id KAA25044
ST)
[132.233.247.11]) by fmm ail.fm.intel.com (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id
KAA06229 for <Allen_Duberstein@ccm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Marks-question |
>
> amateur-built aircraft and which has the same external configuration as
an
> aircraft built at least 30 years ago may be operated without displaying
marks
> in accordance with 45.21 and 45.23 through 45.33 if...
Mark,
As I read it anyway...you are exempt from the normally required markings if
the amateur built aircraft you want to register is a close replica of an
aircraft built at least thirty years ago. I don't think the RV-6 qualifies
yet .
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver <A20driver(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-3 accident |
Does anyone have the details on the RV-3 accident in Elbert,CO on 8th
March????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
I used the thin wall stuff that is white. I think it may be schedule
40. I removed the existing grommets (I have a quickbuild) and drilled
the hole out to 3/4". Then using two sockets (3/4" drive I believe) I
flared the hole out to accept the conduit. Finish the holes. Next it's
time to flare. I chose sockets to flare with. The sockets you choose
should be one small 3/4" drive socket 1/2" or so such that the socket
side is flared down from the drive side to the socket opening side.
Slip this in the hole with another socket 15/16" I believe. Put a bolt
through the works and tighten until the hole is flared. If you have a
quickbuild the wingwalk area will be difficult but not impossible to do.
I know this sounds kinda complex if you don't get it let me know and
I'll try to draw you a picture.
Slip the conduit in there. I bought a 90 degree elbow and cut two half
inch slices off each side of the elbow and glued these on the conduit at
the wing root and then again at the most outboard rib for both wings
(hence you will need four). Leave 3-4 inches of conduit on the wing
root side. You can later trim this off to the appropriate length when
you fit the wings.
Hope this helps.
Happy landings.
Gary Fesenbek, RV6AQ, control stick
RV (Ronaoke, VA)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim R. Stone [SMTP:Stonedog(at)compuserve.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 9:35 AM
> To: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing plumbing
>
>
>
> Gary,
> You said you put a "pretty big piece of conduit" thru your wings. How
> big
> is it? Did you use PVC? Did you use the white variety or the gray?
> Details man, I need details!
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
> Rocket wings
> Louisville
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | priming and painting cabin |
>>> which kind of primer, if any, and paint should I use?
Are you trying to start WWIII?
Hunker down and keep your powder dry.
G. Fesenbek RV6AQ, epoxy by the by
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Jones <gratech(at)acslink.aone.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV conversion! |
chester razer wrote:
> Doug, is the new RV conversion available in a Quick Build kit
Nah!, The Canopy will come pre-assembled with pre-formed skirts and
sealing
strips (and random cracking thru an exclusive service provided by UFS or
is it
UPS, I just can't make out the FAX ) and the Cowling will have a
combination of
piano hinge, AN5 screws and Dzus fasteners (randomised respectively
either way )
formed in place when the glass is laid up....if you don't get the
matching set you'll
have to consult the RV-List archives and this list to find out who has
got your
matching parts.......
The rest of the metal will be, as an ultimate customer choice service,
in baggies
as powder.......bauxite, copper, silicon, zinc, etc This way you get to
put it
together from first principles...... (now see them litigate that
liability through the
courts......)
Mr VanGrunsven reckons he's been making it tooo easy on you guys for too
long and
you're just not grateful enuff! All this complaining about to prepunch
or not to
prepunch, that is the question. (Alas poor CNCpunch I knew him
well.....) and
To P&$%# or not to P*&@#$, Get a life Zelda! 8->>
graham jones
-6A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Marks-question |
Sorry Mark,
... the RV-6A you are building is neither 30 years old, nor a replica
of a 30 year old plane (contained in the first sentence). This 2 inch reg.
number exception does _not_ apply.
If you want, my "how to register a homebuilt" document, it is still
available via _personal_ return e-mail. It does describe the applicable
marking requirements.
... Gil (I would like 2 inch numbers too..:^) Alexander
PS ... last time I sent 30 copies of the document out.
>
> Regarding the external registration marks required by FAR 45.22b
> "A small U.S. registered aircraft built at least 30 years ago OR a U.S.
>registered aircraft for which an experimental certificate has been issued
>under 21.191(d) or 21.191(g) for operation as an exhibition aircraft or as an
>amateur-built aircraft and which has the same external configuration as an
>aircraft built at least 30 years ago may be operated without displaying marks
>in accordance with 45.21 and 45.23 through 45.33 if:
> (1) It displays in accordance with 45.21(c) marks at least 2 inches high on
>each side of the fuselage or vertical tail surface consisting of the Roman
>Capital letter "N" followed by:
> (i) The U.S. registration number of the aircraft; or
>> (ii) The symbol appropriate to the airworthiness certificate of the
aircraft
>("C", standard; "R", restricted; "L", limited; "X", experimental) followed by
>the U.S. registration number of the aircraft; and
> (2) It displays no other mark that begins with the letter "N" anywhere on
>the aircraft, unless it is the same mark that is displayed under paragraph
>(b)(1) of this section"
>
> Now, after studying this far, can't I use an "X" in my registration on my
>aircraft?
>Instead of N106RV, it would be NX106RV. With the "X" denoting
experimental. So
>when I contact ATC, "November xray one zero six romeo victor" would tell them
>that I'm experimental, right? And the passage about being operated without
>displaying marks in accordance with 45.21 and 45.23 through 45.33 would allow
>me to omit the 2" letters spelling "experimental" located in the cabin or
>cockpit. Has anyone else seen this?
>
>Mark "studying the far's" LaBoyteaux
>MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>RV-6A "NX106RV"?
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
Newsletter Editors: Permission given to re-print if
credit is given and a courtesy copy is sent to me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. John Cocker" <jcocker(at)istar.ca> |
Bob, I bought a suspension piece from an auto store, theer was a strip
of rubber with a metal bracket on each end, I had to shorten it, and
then I have attached the metal bracket to the exhaust pipe with a pipe
clamp. The rubber is only 3 or 4 inches. The other metal end is attched
with another clamp onto the engine mount.
I know most articles say the exhaust should be attached to the engine,
not the frame, but the Vetterman instructions suggest to the engine
mount.
On a slightly different subject, for my 100 hour inspection, I found a
small exhaust leak by a gasket. It is difficult to tighten these nuts,
but is important, as an exhaust leak can get into the heating system,
and thence into the cockpit. Unfortunately the heater boxes which enclos
e the exhaust are prone to come loose.
Hope this helps. John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
<< Couple of questions on the bracket we must fabricate to hang the rear part
of theVetterman cross-over exhaust system.
1. What did you use to make the bracket?
For each stack: One hose clamp, one "J" shaped stainless hanger (1"x 2 1/2")
bent at 90 degree angles 1/2" - 3/4" - 1 1/4", rubber strap (about 1/4" thick
1 1/4" x 2 1/2"), two bolts, two nyloc nuts, four large area washers and one
Adel clamp.
2. How did you make the rubber suspension part of it?
For each stack: The adel clamp goes around the lower cross member (at the
vertical/horizontal weldment) of the engine mount. The "J" strap goes between
the stack and the hose clamp. Drill/bolt the top of the "J" to the rubber
strap. Drill/bolt the strap to the adel clamp. To keep the stacks from
sliding on the engine mount I used a trusty tiewrap tied from the adel clamp
to one of the vertical engine mount tubes. 200 hours no problems.
3. How much "movement" does this arrangement allow? >>
Enough to keep stress of the stacks but not enough to let it work loose.
Simple, light, cost effective.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Cleaning up the RV-List Archive |
Sayyy! Isn't Jim Nice to offer to clean up the archive!
We actually could select a few dozen editors, like one for each topic, and let
them put together "white papers". They could also remove wrong answers and
silly responses.
hal
> My opinion is that possibly the "archive" should be edited from time to time,
> to clean up the content.(stuff like congratulatory messages, etc.)
> Jim Nice
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT 8127 <PILOT8127(at)aol.com> |
Hi Bob,
I just completed installing my Hi-Country (Vetterman) on my RV-3. Using his
4-pipe system. I used auto style fiber-reinforced rubber. It is 1 and 1/2
inches wide and 8"
long. I didn't use the metal hangers. I attached it direct to the cross over
spreader.
I coudn't get to the engine for support, so I attached it to the eng. mount
tubes. Movement is restrickted to about 1/4" laterally, and 3/4" up and down.
Pretty firm!
I had an Alan Tolle sys. (crossover) before. Cracked twice in 20 hrs.
Cracked again when I removed it Sunday. Hope the HI-Counrty does the trick!!
Gary and RV-3 (160) N5AJ slider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
Just hang on for a little while. Larry Vetterman has designed and is in
production as we speak, of a universal RV- style exhaust system which will work
on all his systems and on the RV-4, or 6 or 6A!
It cannot be adequately described by my frail wordsmithing; however I have been
involved very slightly in the design and testing of same and can tell you all it
is up to Vetterman's standards for workmanship and quality. Don't know what the
price will be but it will probably cost more than the typical jury rigged systems
I have seen.
What I love about it the most is the fitting is a snap compared to the kluged up
system I had installed previously which took me hours of fiddling on my 6A.
Robert Cabe wrote:
>
> Couple of questions on the bracket we must fabricate to hang the rear part
> of theVetterman cross-over exhaust system.
>
> 1. What did you use to make the bracket?
> 2. How did you make the rubber suspension part of it?
> 3. How much "movement" does this arrangement allow?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Cabe RV-6
> San Antonio
>
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-3 accident |
A20driver wrote:
>
> Does anyone have the details on the RV-3 accident in Elbert,CO on 8th
> March????
>
> There are no details available that I have found regarding the recent RV-3
> crash near Elbert, CO. Apparently the crash was erroneously reported as an
> RV-6 in the initial reports. The pilot was Chris Coffland who I had met a
> couple times and understood to be an extremely competant pilot with lots of
> experience in many types of airplanes including RV-4 and RV-3. He had told me
> he purchased the plane while in California prior to moving to Colorado. He did
> not build it. The local press said according to witnesses, the wings failed
> during acrobatics, about two miles east of Kelly Airpark, (which was his home
> base).
> He seemed to be a very nice person and I will certainly miss him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote Radios |
> .......we'll be using the Infinity grips with as much HOTAS as possible. I've
> searched several manufacturer's web pages, but can't seem to weed out which
> radios support both frequency selection and flip-flop using remote switches.
>
> Can anybody recommend any that do (prefer gps/comm combo but the remote comm
> capability is more important), and any comments on how exactly you have *your*
> Infinity grip or the like hooked up function-wise.......
Radio:
There is a nifty German radio popular in sailplanes that you should consider.
The Becker AR 4201 VHF AM Tranceiver which is a dandy and can be channel selected
via remote switch.
Flip Flop selections of standby freq and 99 memory channels. 760 Freq channels,
meets all TSO reqmts, etc.
Includes an intercom as standard.
Fits neatly in a 2.25 round hole in the panel and weighs only 1.5 lbs.
There is another nifty German radio by Walter Dittel which is a bit simpler and
does not have remote switching of freqs.
Both Dittel and Becker are superb radios and VERY compact, fitting nicely in a
2.25 inch round hole in the panel.
Call Tom Knauf, famous glider pilot known to Van, at 814 355 2483 for more
information about the radios.
Infinity Grips:
The gent who sells these grips will lead you by the hand, literally, as you make
your switch selections.
Frank Zeck
-4 this summer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com> |
Can anyone supply me with the email address for looking up acft
registration numbers?????
joe(at)mcione.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV conversion! |
Does any body know this Rezendahl guy besides me???
He is a real wierd fellow. You should see his Titty Pink rv4.
Absolutly awwwwwwwwsome!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
----------
> Subject: Re: RV-List: prop choice
>
> Jim, would you be interested in selling one of those props? I'm
> still waiting for my sterba to get here, but, the warnke sounds
> real good. Michael
Michael,
I just got back from flying my RV4 with the new prop I just got.(70X74). I
still
have the tired 150hp. Static was 2100, initial climb was a little over 2000 rpm
(what
climb there was) Since it was getting dark, I decided to go ahead and land.
Don't
know what rpm it will get flat out, I'll try to find out tomorrow if weather
permits.
This is WAY too much prop for what I have got now, but just wait. (Gives
me
something to look forward to)
I'll probley won't sell the 70X70 even after I rebuild my engine. ( I
busted the
1st prop I had due to ignorance, so I know it can happen)
The prop I have now has saved my butt plenty of times by being able to pour
the coal to it and climb out of a bad situation.
I believe I would prefer a climb prop over a speed demon if I were just
learning
to fly my plane. Now that I'm so damn good at it (ha) I'm looking for speed.
I've got a friend in Wakeman, Ohio that had a Sterba prop for sale. He had
it on a 150 hp RV4. Give him a call. It was a good looking prop and best I
remember he didn't take a back seat to mine either. His name is Dave Ross
216-839-2664.
Jim
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning up the RV-List Archive |
charset="us-ascii"
Would it be possible to have a code that could be included in the subject
line or msg body that would prevent it from being archived? Like the
"chatter" that some include in the subject line?
I personally enjoy the discourse that occurs. It forces me to think my
positions thru and commit them to writing, a skill that was almost lost in
our society. It adds a social element to the list. Some of you may find
it hard to believe that in that "commit to writing" process I find myself
hitting the "x" in the upper right hand corner. (not enuf you say?)
I would hate to see feel guilty and suppress their questions, answers, or
thoughts, (or good humor) for fear of burning up bandwidth in the archives.
Or we could all just send Matt another $20. At $100 /gig for hard drives we
could just, "Let the Wisdom Roll!"
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote Radios |
>
> There is a nifty German radio popular in sailplanes that you should
consider.
> The Becker AR 4201 VHF AM Tranceiver which is a dandy and can be channel
> > selected via remote switch.
First, thanks to all either responded or will respond to my question. I
was aware of this radio but not that it had this capability. They are
priced at around $1700 in the states (too pricey for me)...but I am
tentatively going to Germany this summer. I wonder if they are priced
lower there?
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Wings |
Hey Charlie
I would really be interested in a picture of your wing swing thing. Thank
you, Brad Bundy flying a Chard 6- Looking to build a 6 or 6A
----------
> From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hanging Wings
> Date: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 7:14 AM
>
>
> Hi listers,
> I would suggest that anyone using this idea (hanging parts from pipe)
> use plastic PVC instead of galvanized iron. Remember that they may be
> sitting up there for years. The dis-simular metals will promote
> corrosion of the contact areas. Perhaps wrapping the contact areas with
> electrical tape would also suffice.
> I considered this before making wooden wall racks. I chose the racks
> for ease of removal and replacement. I can email a photo to anyone
> interested.
>
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8 deburring wing parts
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> > RBusick505 wrote:
> > >
> > > << need to make some room in my garage, and I was thinking of
hanging my
> > > finished wings on the wall. Has anyone done this? If so, how did
you do it?
> > > >>
> > >
> > > I use a long galvanized pipe through the lightening holes
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryon Timothy Maynard <bmaynard(at)communique.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass work |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------6EB5204DCA6738850D8076C3
Check out this Web Site
http://www.concentric.net/~westsys/index.shtml
BStobbe wrote:
>
> Would anyone who has used the West System epoxy on their fiberglass work
> care to comment on the following:
>
> 1. Can it be used for all the fiberglass work, including the canopy?
>
> 2. How much would you estimate would be needed to do all the fiberglass
> work on an RV?
>
> 3. Do you recommend using the West System, or would you do it differently
> next time?
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> Bruce Stobbe
> RV-6
> getting ready to do some fiberglass stuff
>
--------------6EB5204DCA6738850D8076C3
ex.shtml"
404 Not Found
404 Not Found
The requested URL /`westsys/index.shtml was not found on this server.
--------------6EB5204DCA6738850D8076C3--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Vasey <vasey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-3 accident |
The local newspaper said it was an RV-6. According to the press account, a witness
said it look like the wing folded during aerobatics.
Keith Vasey
Denver
A20driver wrote:
>
> Does anyone have the details on the RV-3 accident in Elbert,CO on 8th
> March????
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing plumbing |
Dear Brian,
I installed a 3/4" O.D x .035 Polycarbonate tube approx 3/4' aft and down
from the top of the main spar. for Nav wire Strobe cable and antenna cable.
Before you install the wing ribs make a templete and drill the holes for
the tube.in each rib. After the ribs are installed you will be able to
slip the tube in place. Allow it to project on each end to the end of the
aluminum skin. Install the pitot llines below and behind this tube. The
engineers from Whelen assure me that if you properly install the strobe
cable, it will not cause RF interference with wing antennas.
Polycarbonate tube is available from most commercial plastic suppliers. It
comes in 8 ft. lengths and is easy to glue splice. Glue a collar on each
end to prevent tube from sliding in or out.
Dick Martin
RV8 80124 fuselage almost done
----------
> From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing plumbing
> Date: Monday, March 09, 1998 7:55 PM
>
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >Listers:
> >
> >I've now begun the task of putting the wing skeleton together aft of
> the
> >main spar. The manual reminds me to plan for grommets or conduit for
> both
> >the pitot tubes and the wingtip wiring. It recommends the lower forward
> >corner of the main wing ribs. A few questions:
> >
> >-Install two sets of grommets, one above the other, one for pitot
> tubes,
> >one for wingtip wiring?
> >-Distances from edges for locations?
> >-What tye of grommets, plastic snap-in or rubber?
> >-Can wiring be put through the same grommets as the pitot tubes?
> >-Is conduit a better way to go?
> >-Are there any other plumbing/wiring considerations to allow for behind
> the
> >main spar?
> >-Is there anything to allow room for other than the aileron rods &
> >bellcrank?
> >
> >Thanks!
> >Randy Lervold
> >-8 #80500, starting wings
> >
> >Randy,
>
> I installed the pitot tubing exactly as shown on the plans, through the
> plastic grommets as supplied. I used the plastic conduit as supplied by
> Van's for the wing tip light and landing light wiring, with a pull
> string in place for anything else that may come to mind later. It is run
> through the bottom forward corner of the main ribs, the holes were
> drilled with a unibit. I stabilized the tubing with RTV, although it
> stays put very nicely without it. The approx. position of the conduit
> holes are just up and aft of the bottom rib corner, without interfering
> with the stiffener ring. I had no problem getting a bucking bar around
> it when installing the bottom skins...can push it out of the way, or use
> a slender bar of some sort.
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Brian Denk
> My date with Proseal cometh...
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Qmax LLC <QmaxLLC(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
I'f you're really nice to me I'll send you a mess of photos I shot of RV's at
Osh 96 and Van's homecoming 97.
They're originals so you gotta promise to return them. Must be better than 50
different RV's. Haven't counted.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR <JRWillJR(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail. |
There is much to be said for the tri-gear configuration. I like both and could
be happy with either, but when the wind blows that trike gear is really nice
and I have many hours in with tailgear types. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
This was taken from the maintenance log on Doug Rozenthalls Super RV and
attended to by his Crew.
>
> > > Problem: "Left inside main tire almost needs replacement."
> > > Solution: "Almost replaced left inside main tire."
> > >
> > > Problem: "Test flight OK, except autoland very rough."
> > > Solution: "Autoland not installed on this aircraft."
> > >
> > > Problem #1: "#2 Propeller seeping prop fluid."
> > > Solution #1: "#2 Propeller seepage normal."
> > >
> > > Next night:
> > > Problem #2: "#1, #3, and #4 propellers lack normal seepage."
> > >
> > > Problem: "The autopilot doesn't."
> > > Signed off: "IT DOES NOW."
> > >
> > > Problem: "Something loose in cockpit."
> > > Solution: "Something tightened in cockpit."
> > >
> > > Problem: "Evidence of hydraulic leak on right main landing
> > gear."
> > >
> > > Solution: "Evidence removed."
> > >
> > > Problem: "DME volume unbelievably loud."
> > > Solution: "Volume set to more believable level."
> > >
> > > Problem: "Dead bugs on windshield."
> > > Solution: "Live bugs on order."
> > >
> > > Problem: "Autopilot in altitude hold mode produces a 200 fpm
> > > descent."
> > > Solution: "Cannot reproduce problem on ground."
> > >
> > > Problem: "IFF inoperative."
> > > Solution: "IFF inoperative in OFF mode."
> > >
> > > Problem: "Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick."
> > > Solution: "That's what they're there for."
> > >
> > > Problem: "Number three engine missing."
> > > Solution: "Engine found on right wing after brief search."
> > >
> > >
> > ****************************************************************
Regards Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
>
> Carb ice usually takes place during high power settings, relatively high
> humidity, and medium temps, like at takeoff. Protect against that. Use carb
> heat.
>
>>
Wendall, Do you really want to take off with the carb heat on?
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N Number Search |
Joe,
Here is that address you were looking for...
http://www.landings.com/_landings/pages/search.html
-Glenn Gordon
RV-6, Riveting wing skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration database |
joseph.wiza wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone supply me with the email address for looking up acft
> registration numbers?????
>
> joe(at)mcione.com
>
Joe,
Go to www.landings.com and scroll to bottom of the page and select
"DATABASES". On the next screen, at the top of the page, click on
"SEARCH". This will take you to the page where you can check current and
reserved registrations.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6a Working on Emp & wing kit just arrived.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | oil temps/pressure |
My 6A has an 0-320, 160hp with the oil cooler mounted on the firewall. 2" scat
tubing provides air from the rear right baffle. I am somewhat concerned about
my initial oil temps (4.6 hours on the plane now, freshly rebuilt motor). I am
seeing 200-210 degrees F during level flight at full throttle, (2450-2500rpm)
. If I do any climbing at all it rises up to 219 degrees. The Lycoming manuel
says that "desired" oil temp should be 180, with a max of 245 degrees. I
haven't done a sustained climb test yet to see if it approaches max temp. I am
just concerned that if it is at 200- 210 when the outside air temp is just 70
degrees, what is it going to be at this summer when the O/A is 90 - 100??
My hangar partner has the same exact setup on his 0-360; his oil temps are
always about 180 degrees.
What do you guys think???
PS: Oil pressure never gets above 61psi.
I also have installed a B&C oil filter setup.
Walt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
Hi Jim,
My new Sterba should be here by Friday. I just wanted to get a
tried and true prop from someone that knew exactly what it did on
their similar airpane. That way I would have something to
compare to when I tried it on mine. Today I and another rv-4
flew to Destin Fla. from home (180 miles). He was backed off to
2150 rpm to let me keep up. I was at 2500 rpm. I was full rich
all the way and mine took 10.6 gallons to his 8.3 gallons. Mine
is 150 h.p. and his is 180. This is with a borrowed warnke 70x72
prop. It only does 160 at 2500 rpm. I hope with the new sterba
I gain back the 12-15 mph I lost when I busted my last prop. The
numbers you said you got with those props sounded real good to
me. That is why I thought I should at least ask if you would sell
one. I just want more speed. I finally got some gear leg
intersection fairings on today, but, didn't notice any speed
increase. Was hoping for 3 or 4 mph. It was really too bumpy to
figure. Let me know how your final numbers end up. I will
keep your friends number until I see how my new prop does. Thanks
alot . Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com |
I was wondering, would the plastic wing conduit trap water condensation from humid
air and then keep the water in close proximity to the wiring? Should the
plastic conduit be cut at the bottom so water condensation may escape more easily?
Every Winter (here in foggy Sacramento)I get water condensation on the
inside surface of the fuselage skin of my Piper just aft of the passenger compartment.
It eventually evaporates through the tail cone etc. So, I was thinking,
water vapor might condense inside the plastic wing conduit where it could
remain for some time. Maybe this isn't a real problem, but I was wondering .
. . .?
Mark
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV 6A; empennage nearing completion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gregory Young <gyoung(at)net1.net> |
On Wednesday, March 11, 1998 19:05 PM, joseph.wiza
[SMTP:joe(at)mcione.com] wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone supply me with the email address for looking
up
> acft
> registration numbers?????
>
> joe(at)mcione.com
Try http://www.landings.com/_landings/pages/search_nnr.html
At the bottom of the page there are links to other/related
search pages
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) fuselage out of jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temps/pressure |
Rvator97 wrote:
>
>
> My 6A has an 0-320, 160hp with the oil cooler mounted on the firewall. 2" scat
> tubing provides air from the rear right baffle. I am somewhat concerned about
> my initial oil temps (4.6 hours on the plane now, freshly rebuilt motor). I am
> seeing 200-210 degrees F during level flight at full throttle, (2450-2500rpm)
> . If I do any climbing at all it rises up to 219 degrees. The Lycoming manuel
> says that "desired" oil temp should be 180, with a max of 245 degrees. I
> haven't done a sustained climb test yet to see if it approaches max temp. I am
> just concerned that if it is at 200- 210 when the outside air temp is just 70
> degrees, what is it going to be at this summer when the O/A is 90 - 100??
> My hangar partner has the same exact setup on his 0-360; his oil temps are
> always about 180 degrees.
> What do you guys think???
>
> PS: Oil pressure never gets above 61psi.
> I also have installed a B&C oil filter setup.
>
> Walt.
>
Hi Walt
The temps you are seeing are not really out of line for a new or new
overhauled engine, you may not see them settle down until you get
20-30 hrs on it.
I also would be a little suspect of your 2" scat tubing, I think 3"
would be a better way to go, my hanger partner has his mounted on the
firewall with 3" and his engine runs cold as dose mine. I have my
cooler mounted on the baffling in front of # 2 cyl.
I would rather see 70-80lbs oil pressure at cruse rpm but before
changing the pressure valve make sure your gauge is correct by trying
another one. Which type gauge do you have? If it is mechanical check that
there is no air in line.
Have fun
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
>
>>
>> Carb ice usually takes place during high power settings, relatively high
>> humidity, and medium temps, like at takeoff. Protect against that. Use carb
>> heat.
>>
>>>
>
>Wendall, Do you really want to take off with the carb heat on?
>
>Don
>
On most aircraft, when running with carb heat on you're drawing unfiltered
air into your engine. IMHO not a good idea on the ground. That 20 kilobuck
Lycoming likes clean air...
>
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
>
>>
>> Carb ice usually takes place during high power settings, relatively high
>> humidity, and medium temps, like at takeoff. Protect against that. Use carb
>> heat.
>>
>>>
>
>Wendall, Do you really want to take off with the carb heat on?
>
>Don
>
On most aircraft, when running with carb heat on you're drawing unfiltered
air into your engine. IMHO not a good idea on the ground. That 20 kilobuck
Lycoming likes clean air...
>
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
Thanks to all for the good H2AD info. I was just surprised to see so many
of them out there and for so cheap.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Loose Rivets |
<35038D0A.717C(at)earthlink.net>
| From: | rv6a(at)juno.com (Paul A. Rosales) |
>>RV6's have a problem in the floor between the firewall and the spar
>with the 3/32 rivets working loose that hold the floor to .063 angle
>stiffeners.
My Technical Counselor and owner/builder of several RVs recommended that
I dimple the pan, close the floor rivet spacing to 1" and then use 1/8"
rivets.
I'm not flying yet but the floor is definitely solid.
Paul Rosales
RV-6A N628PV panel in progress
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170 <Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Schemes |
<< Where can I find some good examples of paint schemes for an RV-4? Thanks
in advance.
>>
If you get Van's calendars (current and past) you'll see many good examples of
paint schemes.
Also you can download from Van's homepage an RV-4 bitmap and experiment
yourself if you have MS paint, (included with windows of all iterations) as I
did
Regards,
Merle Miller (flying in '99)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
>
. Today I and another rv-4
> flew to Destin Fla. from home (180 miles). He was backed off to
> 2150 rpm to let me keep up. I was at 2500 rpm. I was full rich
> all the way and mine took 10.6 gallons to his 8.3 gallons. Mine
> is 150 h.p. and his is 180. This is with a borrowed warnke 70x72
> prop. It only does 160 at 2500 rpm. I hope with the new sterba
> I gain back the 12-15 mph I lost when I busted my last prop. The
> numbers you said you got with those props sounded real good to
> me.
Mike,
The Sterba prop that Dave has in Ohio had to do 100 rpm more than me
to keep up with me. When he increased his hp at overhaul he went to 168 hp
and ordered a new Sterba prop. Now he does exactly the same rpm that I do.
He outclimbs me,( hell! everybody outclimbs me, I weigh 250 lbs).
Me or Dave neither have calibrated tachs, but I don't really think they
would be off that much.
I don't know if you read it or not but a man named Ken wrote to the list
with a Warnke 70X70 and indicated he didn't have numbers that were like
mine at all. That really surprised me.
I'll repeat my numbers so you'll have something to compare with.
55% 2150rpm and 20.5mp 150mph @ 6.5 gph
65% 2300rpm and 22 mp 165mph (exactly) 8.2 gph
75% 2500rpm and 23 mp 178mph @ 10 gph
100% 2800rpm and ?mp 195mph @ ? gph (ain't been there that much, just
long enough to find out what the top end was)
I'll let you know what the numbers on this 70X74 are when I fly it this
evening.
You've got to remember I've had 650 hrs. to gather the numbers above. I'll only
have this evening to find out what the numbers of this new prop is.(it's coming
off as soon as I play with a little bit)
If you don't have a manifold pressure guage, try to be at about 3000ASL to
get approximately the same results with a carberated Lycoming.
Jim
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Registration Marks-question |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Mark,
From the aircraft that I have seen with this type
of registration, your comments are 100% correct.
But in fact, the FAA doesn't hand these out unless
you happen to know one of them personally. I did
see one RV at in NJ a few years ago with the
NX... style registration.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on 2'd RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
**** Snip ****
>
> Now, after studying this far, can't I use an "X" in my registration
on my aircraft?
>Instead of N106RV, it would be NX106RV. With the "X" denoting
experimental. So
>when I contact ATC, "November xray one zero six romeo victor" would tell
them
>that I'm experimental, right? And the passage about being operated
without
>displaying marks in accordance with 45.21 and 45.23 through 45.33 would
allow
>me to omit the 2" letters spelling "experimental" located in the cabin
or
>cockpit. Has anyone else seen this?
>
>Mark "studying the far's" LaBoyteaux
>MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>RV-6A "NX106RV"?
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil temps/pressure |
Walt;
If all else fails, try checking the accuracy of your system. Mine was
giving slightly high readings, I couldn't figure, but then the FBO told me
it wasn't unusual for the gauges to be off 30 degrees etc. He had a test
gauge, I tested, and sure 'nuff-mine was17-18 degrees off in the 180-200
range.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
>my initial oil temps (4.6 hours on the plane now, freshly rebuilt motor). I
am
>seeing 200-210 degrees F during level flight at full throttle,
(2450-2500rpm)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Hendrickson-WTH001 <Thomas_Hendrickson(at)css.mot.com> |
http://www.landings.com/_landings/pages/search.html
Try this URL
Thomas J. Hendrickson Telephone: (815) 884-0137
Manufacturing Manager Fax : (815) 884-1314
Greater China GSM/PCS SKYPAGE PIN # 1067562
Cellular Subscriber Sector E-Mail Thomas_Hendrickson(at)css.mot.com
2001 N. Division St.
Harvard, Ill. 60033
>-----Original Message-----
>From: joseph.wiza [SMTP:joe(at)mcione.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 5:05 PM
>To: rvlist
>Subject:
>
>
>Can anyone supply me with the email address for looking up acft
>registration numbers?????
>
>joe(at)mcione.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
In one of the recent "Flying" magazine accident reports, a cause
for an accident on takeoff was blamed on the pilot not using carb
heat for takeoff when conditions called for it. I guess you
would just have to plan for a little less power on takeoff?
Better than no power?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV conversion! |
>
>Does any body know this Rezendahl guy besides me???
>He is a real wierd fellow. You should see his Titty Pink rv4.
>Absolutly awwwwwwwwsome!!!
Bill Clinton should be so lucky as to have Larry K Daudt (modest, note the
unassuming handle, whale captain extrordinaire) as his P.R. guy!
dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505 <RBusick505(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Delaware Corporation |
Last night after a tough night in the RV factory, I was reading Sport Aviation
and noticed an ad for establishing a Delaware Corporation for aircraft
registry. What are the benefits to this option and is it possible for a
homebuilt?
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing plumbing |
>I installed a 3/4" O.D x .035 Polycarbonate tube approx 3/4' aft and down
>from the top of the main spar. for Nav wire Strobe cable and antenna cable.
Is there any particular advantage to polycarbonate tubing over the PVC
tubing thats readily at home improvement stores? (ie lighter or more
durable?)
Alan Carroll
RV-8 #80177 (Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HillJW <HillJW(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temps/pressure |
IMO you need a 3" scat tube to the cooler. Thats the change I made and it
made a much lower oil temp.
hilljw(at)aol.com
+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | More carb heat errata |
<< In one of the recent "Flying" magazine accident reports, a cause
for an accident on takeoff was blamed on the pilot not using carb
heat for takeoff when conditions called for it. I guess you
would just have to plan for a little less power on takeoff? >>
This reminds me of an instructors story:
An instructor was teaching his student about high altitude take-offs, and was
using less than full throttle to simulate the reduced engine output available.
The lesson went well, and the student proceded to actually fly to a higher
altitude airport. Upon returning, the student thanked his instructor for that
specific lesson, relating that he was very tempted to use full throttle for
takeoff at the higher airport.
My first instructor told me: Use whatever control input necessary to get the
desired result. Hey- if you think you need carb heat on take-off, by all means
use it! Be ready for an extended ground roll, and a slower climb.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.Henson(at)cendantmobility.com |
| Subject: | Re: Delaware Corporation |
In order to be a corporation in most states you have to show intent to make
an income from your incorporated operation. Delaware is very leinient on
this issue and also has no state tax. When you sell your bird you would
excape paying FICA, Medicare and state tax on the capital gains. Along the
way you could offset your cap gains with expenses such as maintenance and
any capitalized assets you wanted to depreciate. This asumes you will
eventually sell. My question is, and maybe someone has looked into this, can
you use your out of state business status to escape a use tax? Probably not
but it might be worth looking into. I briefly talked to a CPA friend about
this and he could see no great benefit if you intended to keep your plane
indefinitely.
Eric
----------
From: RBusick505
Subject: Re: RV-List: Delaware Corporation
Date: Thursday, March 12, 1998 11:21AM
Last night after a tough night in the RV factory, I was reading Sport
Aviation
and noticed an ad for establishing a Delaware Corporation for aircraft
registry. What are the benefits to this option and is it possible for a
homebuilt?
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pjl51(at)juno.com (Patrick J LaVigne) |
frankly don't understand why anyone would NOT take advantage of a
resource that contains the combined knowledge of members of the RV
community going back to 1990.
Some of us don't have access to the internet. For various reasons Be
it spouse,too many kids sharing the compuoer or whatever.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration data base |
joseph.wiza wrote:
>
> Can anyone supply me with the email address for looking up acft
> registration numbers?????
>
> joe(at)mcione.com
Hi Joe,
Can't tell from your address where you are, but if your looking for Canadian
registration try
the following.
http://www.tc.gc.ca/aviation/ccarcs/default.htm
Tailwinds, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2 RAA #4061 EAA #229708
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
>I was wondering, would the plastic wing conduit trap water condensation
Mark
I think the 3.5 degree slope will let it drain out.
Don Jordan~6A wings~Arlington,Tx
donspawn(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
letely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New RV conversion! |
| From: | rvinfo(at)juno.com (Dave Smith) |
Does the new RV conversion have one of those new Bose seats?? the ones
that cancel out turbulence.
Bruce Green
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVGEM <RVGEM(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bose Headset evaluation |
hey guys,
like a lot of people I guess, I have not had the opportunity to check the
various ANR headsets comparatively in a real situation.
What I can say is that the Lightspeed 20K set that I bought last year after
the Sun-and-Fun run, is most impressive in reducing the bark of a Lycoming
fitted in the RV6a and at the same time is great for going trans-Atlantic in a
Jumbo -- with the appropriate stero adapter.
Has my vote for value for money.
RV6a/ close to taxying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANNAIR <PANNAIR(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV conversion! |
There is a spy in my camp!!!! How did you know what I was building??? If you
look in my shop you will also find Dwg.'s for heads up displays and Laser
navigation equipment....I guess I could'nt keep this secret forever!!!!
Batman---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANNAIR <PANNAIR(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
Jack---
I have an "ICEMAN" installed in my Cessna 150..(4 yrs.) I installed it
because Continental engines are notorious for carb ice!! Lycomings, which I
think you will have or have in your RV6A rarely are effected.. It works well,
to well, It senses or sees any ice formations forming in the carb by the
change of light.... Many days are close to icing conditions (high humidity)
but really not a threat because as the ice marginally forms in the carb the
heat of the engine melts it. So the "ICEMAN" is continuously sounding it's
warning horn and flashing it's red light at you... This is truly a pain after
while. It does work, but I find myself just leaving it off due to it's false
alarms, You have to keep resetting it or the horn will drive you nuts... It
has some maintenance problems too if your interested E mail me.
Dave===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
PANNAIR wrote:
>
> Jack---
> I have an "ICEMAN" installed in my Cessna 150..(4 yrs.) I installed it
> because Continental engines are notorious for carb ice!! Lycomings, which I
> think you will have or have in your RV6A rarely are effected.. It
> has some maintenance problems too if your interested E mail me.
> Dave===
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your constructive input on the ICEMAN carburetor ice detector. I
talked to the ICEMAN factory today and they're sending me some poop on the unit.
I also had an interesting conversation with someone named Tom at Van's yesterday
and he told me essentially the same thing you did, i.e., Lycomings are less
prone to carburetor icing than Continentals. Tom explained that the carburetor
inlet air in the Lycoming is drawn through a path that is surrounded by the oil
sump and is warmed by the hot oil in the sump. Apparently, Continentals are
built differently and that warming effect doesn't occur. I never flew a Cessna
150, having earned my private license in Piper Tomahawks, Warriors, and Archers,
but I guess the 150's Continentals are more prone to carburetor ice than
Lycomings for the reason Tom suggests. His explanation seems to make sense,
anyway, and also seems consistent with your experience and that of others.
Tom also said that NONE of Van's prototypes are equipped with carburetor heat
mechanisms. It's beginning to sound like a carburetor ice detector on a Lycoming
is about as useful as an ADF these days, but just so that I feel confident in my
decision, I'd appreciate hearing any more about your experience with the ICEMAN
that you'd care to relate and any maintenance problems you've had with it.
Thanks for your helpful comments.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temps/pressure |
I checked my oil temp probe by bringing water to a boil and putting the oil
temp prob in the water, if it reads 212F or 100C you can go on from there.
----------
> From: Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: oil temps/pressure
> Date: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 11:39 PM
>
>
> My 6A has an 0-320, 160hp with the oil cooler mounted on the firewall. 2"
scat
> tubing provides air from the rear right baffle. I am somewhat concerned
about
> my initial oil temps (4.6 hours on the plane now, freshly rebuilt motor).
I am
> seeing 200-210 degrees F during level flight at full throttle,
(2450-2500rpm)
> . If I do any climbing at all it rises up to 219 degrees. The Lycoming
manuel
> says that "desired" oil temp should be 180, with a max of 245 degrees. I
> haven't done a sustained climb test yet to see if it approaches max temp.
I am
> just concerned that if it is at 200- 210 when the outside air temp is
just 70
> degrees, what is it going to be at this summer when the O/A is 90 -
100??
> My hangar partner has the same exact setup on his 0-360; his oil temps
are
> always about 180 degrees.
> What do you guys think???
>
> PS: Oil pressure never gets above 61psi.
> I also have installed a B&C oil filter setup.
>
> Walt.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
Has anyone on the RV-list installed a video camera into the leading edge
of the vertical stabilizer?
I am looking for any information regarding this type of installation.
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
(riveting wing skins)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
"In one of the recent "Flying" magazine accident reports, a cause
for an accident on takeoff was blamed on the pilot not using carb
heat for takeoff when conditions called for it. I guess you
would just have to plan for a little less power on takeoff?
Better than no power? "
___________________________________
Flying Ice King in Carb Ice Heaven.
My Cessna 182 is rated as Ice King and living in Carb Ice Heaven I
definitely do take a interest in carb ice and use carb heat for
taxi/takeoff when required.
The C-182 Take-off Check states:
"Carburetor Heat -- Check operation, then set to cold unless icing
conditions prevail" (performance corrections not provided by Cessna for
using carb heat on take-off)
The advantage of a carb air temp. gauge over other forms of "ice
detectors" is that you can apply just enough carb heat to bring the carb
air temp above the freezing range, without suffering a major power penalty.
I have an excellent carb air temp gauge, think it is made by Electronics
International in Oregon. It has a digital temperature readout and an amber
caution light that comes on when carb venturi temp drops into the icing
range (below 39 deg.F). I will use this same unit on the RV-6A.
I may have interpreted a previous post incorrectly, it seemed to imply that
carb ice formed more rapidly at high power settings. That is not the case,
carb ice forms most rapidly at low power settings such as during taxi out
to the runway, or on approach, however in the right conditions carb ice
will form at all power settings.
(Holding in cloud in a 0-320 powered C-172 I have observed carb ice form at
2200 RPM and not return when the power was increased to 2450 RPM.)
On a rainey/drizzely winter day here in the Pacific Northwest the Ice King
can ice up to the point that it will quit during taxi out to the runway.
Dust is not a problem in these conditions so carb heat is used as required.
No idle power approaches in Ice King, carb heat and power maintained to
touchdown when operating in visible moisture and/or carb icing conditions.
I check Ice King carefully for carb ice during runup, if none has formed
during taxi out with the carb heat off in nice weather then carb heat is
not required for take-off.
Some pilots check carb heat during runup with a quick: On - RPM drop Off -
RPM increase and away they go. (nope cable is not broke)
I was taught - carb heat ON - RPM drop - then wait 20-30 seconds to see if
there is ice, indicated by a rise in RPM. Carb heat Off - check that RPM
returns to previous setting, any increased RPM indicates that you did have
ice.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6A - Wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Moore" <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
From: John B. Abell
>Tom also said that NONE of Van's prototypes are equipped with carburetor
heat
>mechanisms. It's beginning to sound like a carburetor ice detector on a
Lycoming
>is about as useful as an ADF these days, but just so that I feel confident
in my
>decision, I'd appreciate hearing any more about your experience with the
ICEMAN
>that you'd care to relate and any maintenance problems you've had with it.
The YAK-52 that I fly has a CAT (carb air temp) gage as did several military
a/c
that I have flown. I find it to be a better choice than an ice detector. I
can now
maintain a carb heat setting to avoid ice accumulation during any phase of
flight.
Bob Moore
ATP CFI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Conduit Q |
<< water vapor might condense inside the plastic wing conduit where it could
remain for some time. >>
If the pvc conduit and it's couplings are primed and glued using the
recommended glue, and the open ends are potted with a good electrical potting
compound, moisture inside the conduit should be minimal. Also consider that
the pvc is an insulator, and would not normally condense water vapor, unless
it has cold water running thru it.
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
>frankly don't understand why anyone would NOT take advantage
>of a resource that contains the combined knowledge of members of
>the RV community going back to 1990.
Since I'm a retired programmer and understand the costs of DASD
(disk storage) and hardware in general, I've tried using the archives
to help keep it from growing at an alarming rate. However, each time
I use it, I usually run into a garbled mess in short order. If I don't find
the answer in a few notes, I'll get no answer because I can't read the
garbage coming out of the computer. I don't know why it does that;
but, that tends to make me ask the question directly rather than
waste time chasing after the answer in the archives. The archives
are growing at an alarming rate. Needs to be pared down somehow.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A #22220
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temps/pressure |
<< I also would be a little suspect of your 2" scat tubing, I think 3"
would be a better way to go, my hanger partner has his mounted on the
firewall with 3" and his engine runs cold as dose mine. I have my
cooler mounted on the baffling in front of # 2 cyl.
I would rather see 70-80lbs oil pressure at cruse rpm but before
changing the pressure valve make sure your gauge is correct by trying
another one. Which type gauge do you have? If it is mechanical check that
there is no air in line. >>
Jerry: Oops! I was wrong on the size of the tubing, it IS 3". My oil
temp/pressure guage is an Electronics International unit.
Walt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail) |
I've tried to use the archive a couple times, but got very dated
information from it. The List itself provides the latest and greatest
information.
Larry
larry(at)bowen.com
RV-8 Emp.
On Tuesday, March 10, 1998 3:30 PM, A20driver [SMTP:A20driver(at)aol.com]
wrote:
>
> Randy: I think a lot of builders don't use the Alchive because they don't
know
> how to get there....Maybe we should run the process every couple of weeks
or
> once a month on continuing basis...Jim...A20driver(at)aol.com...Both 3 @ 4
> flying...3 was built in 77..It votes this year!!!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Lattimer" <m22(at)skypoint.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for some build time expectations and RV owners in Minnesota! |
Greetings!
I am new to the list, and joined primarily to get some initial passes on
just what I may be getting myself into :)
I'm strongly considering an RV-8 as good preparation for a Thunder Mustang,
both in terms of kit assembly and flying skills. I'm looking at doing a
*VERY* "stock" build; no mods of any kind. I'm also planning on going the
"quickbuild" kit route. Any pragmatists out there that have some thoughts
on build times?
I'm also looking for some RV owners in Minnesota that would be willing to
introduce me to RVs. I fly out of Flying Cloud, and I know I've seen at
least one nice RV-6A that just got finished this summer (yes, that was me
that kept driving by your hanger :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temps/pressure |
Rvator97 wrote:
>
>
> My 6A has an 0-320, 160hp with the oil cooler mounted on the firewall. 2" scat
Walt, I have the same set-up on the firewall but I use 3" scat.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing plumbing |
Dear Allen,
Many advantages. Polycarbonate is lighter, thinner wall,larger I.D. and
more stable in a high vibration environment.
Dick Martin
RV8 80124 fuselage almost done
----------
> From: Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing plumbing
> Date: Thursday, March 12, 1998 9:24 AM
>
>
> >I installed a 3/4" O.D x .035 Polycarbonate tube approx 3/4' aft and
down
> >from the top of the main spar. for Nav wire Strobe cable and antenna
cable.
>
>
> Is there any particular advantage to polycarbonate tubing over the PVC
> tubing thats readily at home improvement stores? (ie lighter or more
> durable?)
>
>
>
> Alan Carroll
> RV-8 #80177 (Wings)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | constant speed propellers |
Listers,
I am almost finished with the fuselage of my RV8, have received the finish
kit, and I am now getting serious about buying a propeller. I have
budgeted for a new constant speed propeller. Probably a Hartzell, however
a McCauley would also be acceptable.. My delema is that I am doing
everything possible to build my RV8 ''Light and hopefully fast"". and I am
having difficulty obtaining information on the preferred propeller design
to use. The prop that Van uses is a standard style that has been around
for some time. I know it is proven, however, I keep seeing the new
""Scimitar, cupped shape" blade disign in the various trade magazines etc
that are supposedly superior. Calls to Hartzell and McCauley yielded no
information at all as to suitability or possib le performance. I have seen
one of the new Hartzells on a friends new Glasair II. However he never
tried any other prop and also his airplane is very heavy, so his
experience (not fast) is of no value. I am using a Lycoming IO360A1B6
engine built up by Barrett Performance Engines of Tulsa yielding clost to
230 hp. If anybody has any information or exerience or know any friends
with experience with the New Design constant speed propellers, I would
appreciate any information available. Either E-mail me or call me
directly.
Dick Martin
RV8 80124 fuselage almost done
Green Bay, Wis
920 432 4845 mornings cst
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR <JRWillJR(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV3-6 incident |
Anymore info on the RV that lost its wings--was it a 6 or a 3?? JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GAS1MAN <GAS1MAN(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Wings |
Use galvanized for support, and slip plastic pipe over it for protection.
Warren RV6Q202
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen" <clevtool(at)tdsi.net> |
Many folks are using fuel gauges from local auto supply stores, that is one
cheap way out.
Fuel pressure senders are generally supplied with the gauge, try Wicks
Aircraft.
Buzz Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
1-800-368-1822 orders
1-515-432-6794 questions
1-515-432-7804 FAX
clevtool(at)tdsi.net
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Date: Sunday, March 08, 1998 3:27 PM
>
>I'm about to place a couple of huge orders so that I can start with
>the completion of things. However, a couple of items have me
>stumped. Maybe you can give some good hints. :-)
>
>1) I need a couple of fuel gauges; but, I don't want the expensive
>ones that work with the old S/W senders I got with my wings. What
>do you guys recommend? I already have a couple of off brands that
>work; but, I'd like something new. What works?
>
>2) I also need a reasonably priced fuel pressure sender. The UMA
>one sorta scares me based upon what I've read here and there. Any
>suggestions?
>
>I should be placing an orders for about $6K within a week or so. I'm
>hoping that will get me close to having everything to finish out except
>for the glass, paint, hoses, etc. I'm running out of money! :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A #22220
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pierre R. Durand" <pierre(at)durand.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Majordomo: Request Results: (no subject) |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------741D032C78B19FCBD660E6C7
I have done over and over as described ( unsubscribe in the body of a
message without any subject to rv-list-request(at)matronics.com) for many
months to get my name off the rv-list without success.
Can somebody help me in getting my name off this ... list.
Please.
pierre(at)durand.net
--------------741D032C78B19FCBD660E6C7
begin: vcard
fn: Pierre Durand
n: Durand;Pierre
org: First Access Help Desk Technologies Inc.
adr: 133 Highland Way;;;Sherwood Park;Alberta;T8A 5M6;Canada
email;internet: pierre(at)durand.net
title: Information Systems Architect
tel;work: (403) 499-4040
tel;fax: (403) 464-3316
tel;home: (403) 464-3314
version: 2.1
end: vcard
--------------741D032C78B19FCBD660E6C7--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed propellers |
<< If anybody has any information or exerience or know any friends
with experience with the New Design constant speed propellers, I would
appreciate any information available. >>
Try an MT Prop. Very expensive but very good.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Coolant System Info |
For those considering water cooled alternate engines as your aircraft
powerplant. There is a very good explaination of water coolant systems,
addresses certain incorrect notions about water flow rates and heat
transfer, effects of adding anti-freeze on heat transfer, and other
good guide lines that can be found at:
www.stewartcomponents.com/cooling.htm.
Ed
RV-6A N494BW (Mazda Powered)
anderson_ed(at)bah.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV3-6 incident |
| From: | gretz-aero(at)juno.com (Warren Gretz) |
It was a RV-3.
>
>Anymore info on the RV that lost its wings--was it a 6 or a 3?? JR
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Video Tape |
We have purchased a small quantity (5) of an EAA produced
fiberglass/composite instructional video tape which we meant to include
in the RV-ation bookstore catalog. (Yes, there is fiberglass work to be
done on your RV.)
Unfortunately, after watching the tape, I have found that the type of
glass work is describes (fiberglass/foam layups, square joints, hot
knifing, etc) is not the type of work done on the RV finishing kit
(filling, forming, bonding)
Thus, I have decided NOT to include this tape in our catalog, as it is
not very appropriate for RVs. They seem produced mostly for an
introduction to Long-Eze type building methods.
Meanwhile, I have these 5 tapes to get rid of, and would be glad to sell
them at our cost of $12 each. If you want one, e-mail or call direct at
970-887-2207. This tape is not getting on our web page.
I'm still looking for a more appropriate glass work tape that would be
more specific to our needs. If you know of one, please let me know.
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | rv-list: RV-3 Accident |
The following is from the NTSB site:
NTSB Identification: FTW98FA145
Accident occurred MAR-08-98 at ELBERT, CO
Aircraft: DUCI'S VANS RV-3A, registration: N99HV
Injuries: 1 Fatal.
On March 8, 1998, approximately 1510 mountain standard time, Duci's Vans
RV-3A, N99HV, was
destroyed when it collided with terrain while maneuvering near Elbert,
Colorado. The airline transport
rated pilot, the sole occupant aboard, was fatally injured. Visual
meteorological conditions prevailed,
and no flight plan had been filed for the local personal flight conducted
under Title 14 CFR Part 91.
The flight originated at Elbert approximately 1430. According to one
witness, the pilot had been
performing "loops, chandelles, and rolls." At the top of what appeared to be
a loop, he observed one of
the wings "fold" and the airplane dove to the ground. The on scene
examination disclosed the left wing
was separated from the fuselage and was found about 75 feet from a ground
crater. The right wing
was also separated from the fuselage and found at the end the wreckage path
near the empennage.
There were three creases across the top of the right wing, and it was bent
upward in a positive mode.
The right wing was also pulled out from the spar, leaving about 6 inches of
spar stub still attached to
the wing. Most of the spar remained with the left wing. It, too, was bent
upward in a positive mode.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
<< Can somebody help me in getting my name off this ... list.
Please.
pierre(at)durand.net >>
The RV-list is like the Eagles Hotel California...you can check-out anytime
you like, but you can never leave.
Gary Corde
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernie Billing <Ernie.Billing(at)seagatesoftware.com> |
| Subject: | constant speed propellers |
Aviation Consumer just did an article on 2 vs. 3 blade propellers as
Hartzell and McCauley are offering 3 blade STC's for lots of spam cans
these days. They pretty much said anything under 300hp is better off
with two blades for weight and performance. It helped me a lot as I was
thinking about putting a McCauley QZP on our Cardinal RG (IO360A1B6D.)
It looked like at least 15 extra pounds and a few knots loss in cruise
(though better climb performance.)
I don't remember the exact issue of Av. Consumer, but is was one of the
last three. I'll try to find it at home and let you know.
Ernie Billing
1976 Cardinal RG
RV-6 empennage in Fall.
________________________________________________________________________________
The insurance policy that I have with AVEMCO for my RV-6 is up for renewal.
Now that I am past the first flight, I would like to shop around for
something less expensive. The problem is, I don't know where to shop. I
would appreciate any referrals for other companies that write insurance for
experimental aircraft. Please send me the company name and phone number by
e-mail (off-list).
Thanks,
Mark
Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
>
SNIP
>Since I'm a retired programmer and understand the costs of DASD
>(disk storage) and hardware in general,
SNIP
>
As a non-retired programmer, I have to keep up with hard drive costs, so I
checked:
A Seagate ST410800N 9GB SCSI drive is $1999 from MicroWarehouse.
The largest message in my inbox for the last several weeks is 16KB.
That is almost 600,000 of the largest messages on that drive.
I seem to get maybe 50 messages a day, so 9GB would hold 12000 days or
about 32 years worst case.
If it's true that there are 800 users of this list, a donation of $3 apiece
would buy the drive, with enough left over for a nice fast controller.
Let me know where I can send the donation -- to Matronics perhaps?
I think the archive would be more useful and get more use if it had a
slightly nicer search engine. Simply returning articles most-recent-first,
and having a user-set limit of the number of articles that it returned.
I really do want to thank Matronics for providing the server space for this
list. I suppose the obvious way to say thank you is to buy their products,
huh?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Video Tape |
Dr. John: If I were you, I'd refrain from posting my credit card # to the
list where 600 plus people will see it. Maybe with thirteen digits displayed,
you are safe (mine has 16), but it still seems risky. Might want to consider
cancelling the card and starting over, for safety's sake.
Bill B RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Coolant System Info |
Anderson Ed wrote:
>
> For those considering water cooled alternate engines as your aircraft
> powerplant. There is a very good explaination of water coolant systems,
>
> addresses certain incorrect notions about water flow rates and heat
> transfer, effects of adding anti-freeze on heat transfer, and other
> good guide lines that can be found at:
>
> www.stewartcomponents.com/cooling.htm.
Hi Ed,
Been unable to reach this site. Says its a AOL site and unavailable to
me, to bad I would have
liked to seen the articles.
Have you seen the cooling articles written by Hans Mayer on the RAA site,
very good reading if
you haven't.
http://www.inforamp.net/~raac/
Look under Technical Tips.
Tailwinds, terry
Terry Mortimore 2.7L Subaru RV-6A
38 Cartier St.
Sault Ste Marie terry.mortimore(at)sympatico.ca
Ontario Canada
P6B-3K2 RAA #4061 EAA #229708
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
> From: Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> I think the archive would be more useful and get more use if it had a
> slightly nicer search engine. Simply returning articles
most-recent-first,
> and having a user-set limit of the number of articles that it
There's already a very nice search engine on the Matronics web site that
allows searching for single or multiple words (AND'ed or OR'ed), forward or
reverse direction, beginning or end or archive, limited to specific date
range...and it also shows you where the search keyword(s) are in a result.
Flexible enough?
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVGEM <RVGEM(at)aol.com> |
hey guys,
I have an O-360-A1A3D in my RV6a and bought a Lightspeed ignition to fit
later.
My problem is the same as yours....... what are the correct drive parts and
Slick numbers to make sure the magneto side is ok.
All help appreciated.
RV6/ close to taxying !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I
>would appreciate any referrals for other companies that write insurance for
>experimental aircraft. Please send me the company name and phone number by
>e-mail (off-list).
>
I will reply here as everyone buys insurance (I hope!). I buy mine from a
Broker in Ankeny Iowa Named Scott Smith. His company is called Skysmith.
Scott also does freelance writing for Kitplanes (I think) and publishes the
Cessna Skymaster Newsletter and the Smith Mini-Plane Letter. He can be
reached at 800-743-1439. Tell him I sent you. If you get his voice mail,
leave a msg, he will call back in minutes! Great service. When I crashed
the Lawn Dart, they paid, and When I bought the RV they still wrote my
insurance.
No financial interest etc.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com (my old netins.net is no longer valid)
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Video Tape |
<35096901.12(at)rkymtnhi.com>
| From: | rvpilot(at)juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Andy,
Contact Sam James
12185 Schooner Lane
Moore Haven, FL 33471
941-675-4493
Sam is an RV4 builder and a fiberglass guru and has produced an excellent
video on the subject. He also makes wheel fairings, wing root fairings,
engine plenums, and other parts for RV's.
Regards, Bill, RV4, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Video Camera |
Hi all,
My plan is to put a camera in the wing - maybe ever the tip. I was thinking of
one that looked down origianlly but have thought of making it tip up to look
forward. I thought I might use a servo like the Mac to tilt the camera.
Mounting in the V stab would have some advantages and disadvantages. Does the
tail shake more or less than the wing?
hal
>
> Has anyone on the RV-list installed a video camera into the leading edge
> of the vertical stabilizer?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
Mark D Hiatt writes:
>
> The recent conversation about propellers reminded me of something I saw at
> Oshkosh two years ago, but missed last summer: The QCS propeller.
Mark, I found this web site,
http://www.msbusiness.com/mbj961021/Aircraft.html
which is an article about Global Aircraft, who make the QCS prop.
Reading between the lines, I'd say it's a bit early for someone who
wants to install a prop this summer. But it looks promising.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
[-6 tail]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temps/pressure |
I am mistaken... It IS 3" scat . what kinds of oil temps are you seeing, Don?
"The RV Journal" http://ww.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANNAIR <PANNAIR(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim that Posting when Replying! |
Don't know how to trim. Can you help?
Dave---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowen.com> |
| Subject: | Carburetor Ice Detectors |
You mean no carb heat on the prototypes or no carb ice detectors?!?
Larry
larry(at)bowen.com
RV-8 Emp.
On Wednesday, March 11, 1998 11:43 AM, John B Abell [SMTP:jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com]
wrote:
[snip]
> Tom also said that NONE of Van's prototypes are equipped with carburetor heat
> mechanisms. It's beginning to sound like a carburetor ice detector on a Lycoming
> is about as useful as an ADF these days, but just so that I feel confident in
my
> decision, I'd appreciate hearing any more about your experience with the ICEMAN
> that you'd care to relate and any maintenance problems you've had with it.
>
> Thanks for your helpful comments.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Jack Abell
> Los Angeles
> RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Video Tape |
Dr. John,
Thanks for the fuselage kit!! Your card # ran just fine at Vans! I, of
course, am only kidding.....
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temps/pressure |
Rvator97 wrote:
>
>
> I am mistaken... It IS 3" scat . what kinds of oil temps are you seeing, Don?
>
I'm not flying yet Walt. But I have a freind who is and he gets 190's or
better in 20deg. temps. make sure your inlet is sealed all around and
that you have a door on the bottom to control the amount of air exiting.
This should help.
Good Luck
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
<< The problem is, I don't know where to shop. I
would appreciate any referrals for other companies that write insurance for
experimental aircraft >>
Check out the Yeller Pages on the net. I got mine from Falcon Insurance and
save $400/yr.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Larsen <larsenj(at)minot.ndak.net> |
Has anyone enlarged the mounting hole in their Avery CP wheel? I need 1 1/8" to
mount the wheel on my bench grinder.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Very trusting people |
<< You should be much more concerned about the biggest financial exposure
today..... the debit card!!!! >>
I must agree with that statement. The government would like to replace cash
with that little jewel!!
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
>--------------
>
>> From: Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> I think the archive would be more useful and get more use if it had a
>> slightly nicer search engine. Simply returning articles
>most-recent-first,
>> and having a user-set limit of the number of articles that it
>
>There's already a very nice search engine on the Matronics web site that
>allows searching for single or multiple words (AND'ed or OR'ed), forward or
>reverse direction, beginning or end or archive, limited to specific date
>range...and it also shows you where the search keyword(s) are in a result.
>Flexible enough?
>
>Rob (RV-6Q).
>--------------
Everybody get ready because I'm almost ready to release a brand new
web-based search engine for the RV-List archives (>42Mb these days).
I think that everyone will find the new engine quite exciting. The first
major improvment is that a 2 word ANDd search take only 3 seconds with
the new code and system! Thats a brute force, non-indexed search, by
the way!
I am also adding significant enchancments to the searching capability.
For example, the new engine allows you to search for as many words or
phrases as you can type on a line connected with the "&" and/or the "|"
symbols to represent the AND and OR functions respectivly. So, for
example, the follow search will be possible with the new engine:
rv4 & tail | rv6 & tail | rv3 & tail
The logic is simple enough, but the searching power is quite significant.
The initial search word takes about 3 seconds and each additional search
word adds an additional 1.5 seconds. So, for example, the above search
would take about 10.5 seconds! Impressive to say the least.
The output interface of the new search engine is also quite different
and will use the "frames" capability of most common web browsers.
The search results will be displayed in 3 horz. frames; the top frame
will allow the user to modify the current search parameters and search
again. The middle frame will be an index list of matching message
subjects, dates, and froms that will contain hyperlinks to each matching
message text. When a given hyperlink in the middle frame is clicked
on, the actual message text will appear in the bottom frame.
I will likely add assending/desending index display, match return limit,
and date ranging options in the near future. Although with the new found
speed and flexibility of the engine, these features become less important.
Now I bet you're excited! I hope to have something ready for testing
in a couple of weeks... Stand by.
Matt Dralle
Matronics
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GAS1MAN <GAS1MAN(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CP Wheel Mod |
Has anyone enlarged the mounting hole in their Avery CP wheel? I need 1 1/8"
to mount the wheel on my bench grinder. >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GAS1MAN <GAS1MAN(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CP Wheel Mod |
Has anyone enlarged the mounting hole in their Avery CP wheel? I need 1
1/8"
to mount the wheel on my bench grinder. >> >>
Jim, take the wheel to a bearing store and purchase a bushing that will fit
into the wheel, and slip over the shaft on the bench grinder. Measure the
diameter of the shaft before you jump in the FORD.
Warren RV6AQ202.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Nolan <nv_nolan(at)apollo.commnet.edu> |
>I
>would appreciate any referrals for other companies that write insurance for
>experimental aircraft. Please send me the company name and phone number by
>e-mail (off-list).
Would appreciate same.
Regards.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim that Posting when Replying! |
Depends on your email program. However, most Windoze programs
understand if you highlight the text you want to remove and then press
Control-X for cut or Del for delete.
PatK - RV-6A
PANNAIR wrote:
>
> Don't know how to trim. Can you help?
> Dave---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
Try Falcon Ins Agy of Dallas, Inc., (214)250-0800. I found them to be alittle
cheaper than Avemco. Also, they will cover you starting with the first
flight,(no flight advisor program requirements).
Walt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Ice Detectors |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> You mean no carb heat on the prototypes or no carb ice detectors?!?
>
> Larry
> larry(at)bowen.com
> RV-8 Emp.
I'm pretty sure he said no carb heat, but certainly no carb ice
detector. Call him up.
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | the evils of pilot drilled kit |
A major part of building this plane is knowing how good is "good
enough", since, like landing, you never really get it perfectly right. I'm
probably making a mountain out of a mole hill, but ...
I have a recent tail kit with everything "pilot drilled". The
problem is that the pilot holes are #31s and they're final drilled with
#30s which leaves you a whopping 0.0085" of adjustment room. In otherwords
the kit goes together essentially as they predrilled it. In general that's
fine, but my HS413's on the HS rear spar are not well aligned. (Van's
should leave out some pilot holes in the spar - they've over determined the
alignment problem.)
If I put the alignment bushings in the outboard HS413's and stretch
the string across, everything lines up well except the inboard brackets of
the HS413s. They're off by about 0.022. Put another way, a drill rod going
thru the HS413 makes an angle of 3 deg. with the spar center line. Doesn't
sound like much (looks real bad) but it makes it hard to put the bolt thru
the rod end bearing. Although I can assemble it all, it's clearly going to
be a "pre-stressed assembly".
Is this good enough? If not, how do I fix it? I guess I could
reposition the inboard HS413s, redrill them with a bigger drill and use
bolts in those holes instead of rivets. Or I could "move" the rod end
bearing hole over 0.022, ending up with an oval hole. Or I could just prime
everthing, rivet the spar together and get on with it. (At this rate it'll
take me 25 years to finish this thing.)
Any comments?
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by cc.newcastle.edu.au
| From: | Carol Richards <crcar(at)cc.newcastle.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Van's College Oz |
We are holding the first Australian 'Van's College' in June. We will have
about 20 participants working for two days gaining hands-on skills and
confidence to tackle their own projects.
We are assembling a WORKSHOP MANUAL which will be sent to participants
prior to the weekend workshop. There will be a section entitled, 'What I
Wish I'd Known Before I Started or HINTS, SLICK TOOLS, AND CHEAP TRICKS.'
If any listers have any of the above which aren't already common knowledge
we'd appreciate hearing from you.
If your contributions are detailed, lengthy or have enclosures you can
e-mail direct. Many thanks, Sam Richards - RV-6 (ribs on wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
,
March 14,1998..another RV6 took to the skies at Langley, B.C.,..about 8
miles North of the border. (or a strong beer bottle throw North).
Engine start was quick and strong, no traffic, took off straight
North and was at 2000 ft pretty quickly. Stayed right over the airport so I
could get down if need dictated and I was surprised at just how busy I was.
Some instruments need verifying and airspeed was 140 with about 2300 rpm on
an electric tach, no wheel fairings as yet. I have a Sterba 69x69, nice and
smooth but maybe underpitched. I need to do a tach check.
Quite a bit of patchy cloud moving through from 1200' to 2500 and
up so staying in the area and head in and out kept me busy. Left wing is
heavy and need adjusting on aileron..elec trim not much help. Just some.
After about 15 minutes, I noticed oil temp was 230. I have a small Setrab
cooler with 2/3 area blocked off for the cool weather. I need to open that
quite a bit before next flight.
Shot two landings and they were as sweet and smooth as you could
ask for. I can't explain it because I know all the rest will be less than
good. Strangely, l was not up tight for any of it although I guess it took
2 more hours to come down off the ceiling because I can't remember much of
the 17 mile drive home. I do know that the famous 'RV grin' was making my
cheeks tired. Just one last comment which might prove useful for those that
are debating slider against tip-up canopy. I really like the tip-up because
it looks so racy and cool and unobstructed visibility like a helicopter,
but guess what, I have a slider because I want to be cool on hot days and I
worried whether the frame and side posts would get in the way. Well, it is
no different than the cars we drive every day that have door posts in your
peripheral vision and I didn't even think about it on landing. Visibility
is just fine. Thanks for listening...Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Video Tape |
510-606-1001)
>
>I'm sure that John meant to send this just to the seller of the video and
>not the whole List. I have edited the archive and removed all occurances
>of this messages and its followups.
>
>Matt Drale
>RV-List Admin.
>
I took it as probable a joke on us since all credit cards that I am aware
of have 4 sets of 4 numbers totaling 16 digits not 1 set of 4 and 3 sets of
3 totaling 13.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv96a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANNAIR <PANNAIR(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim that Posting when Replying! |
In a message dated 3/14/98 9:00:21 AM Eastern Standard Time, patk(at)mail.ic.net
writes:
<< However, most Windoze programs
understand if you highlight the text you want to remove and then press
Control-X for cut or Del for delete. >>
I highlighted above and it brought it to my return reply message. Looks like
mine does the opposite! Thanks, think I know what to do now..
pannair---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANNAIR <PANNAIR(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Austin----
Hooray!!! And congratulations!!!!! Enjoy!!!!!
Dave---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose vs Tail) |
larry(at)bowen.com wrote:
> I've tried to use the archive a couple times, but got very dated
> information from it. The List itself provides the latest and greatest
> information.
True.
However, there *is* useful stuff in the archive -- I know, because I
have found it. The problem is that there's an enormous amount of 'noise'
too. Hopefully the new search engine will address this somewhat. Note
that Alta Vista, etc has indexes of the archive too, so you can use
their search engine (with sufficiently tight criteria) to search the
RV-list archive.
In any case, what I've tried to do is filter out the irrelevant and
obsolete. What I deem to be useful, I collect together in the
appropriate chapter of my Bunny's Guide
<http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunnytop.htm>.
There was a movement last year to clean up the archive (get rid of old
fly-in announcements, subscribe requests, etc). That effort seems to
have petered out now.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
tom sargent wrote:
>
>
>
> If I put the alignment bushings in the outboard HS413's and stretch
> the string across, everything lines up well except the inboard brackets of
> the HS413s. They're off by about 0.022. Put another way, a drill rod going
> thru the HS413 makes an angle of 3 deg. with the spar center line. Doesn't
> sound like much (looks real bad) but it makes it hard to put the bolt thru
> the rod end bearing. Although I can assemble it all, it's clearly going to
> be a "pre-stressed assembly".
>
> Is this good enough? If not, how do I fix it? I guess I could
> reposition the inboard HS413s, redrill them with a bigger drill and use
> bolts in those holes instead of rivets. Or I could "move" the rod end
> bearing hole over 0.022, ending up with an oval hole. Or I could just prime
> everthing, rivet the spar together and get on with it.
> Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
>
Tom,
I do not know how recent your kit is, I rec'd mine in January and didn't
have the problem that you have. The only problem I had with the HS413's
were that the bolt hole was a tad undersized and had to have a bit ran
through it. IMO, the way that a rod end bearing is built, the bolt that
goes through it can be tilted a little and *MAY* not cause a problem.
Also, it could be that the bolt hole in the HS413 if off center and you
may just need a new HS413. I have ran into little nagging things too
and if it's safe, I move on.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond OK
-6a..still working on EMP, wing kit is waiting to be inventoried.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 ELT antenna placement |
Greetings folks,
I just received shipment of various instruments, among them a new ELT.
Then, I noticed in the instructions it says to mount the antenna "on
top" of the airplane. This is fine for your garden variety spam can, but
there just isn't much real estate on the top of an RV8 to mount such a
thing! The canopy slides waaaay back almost to the fin leading edge..or
so it appears, and mounting it forward of the canopy would be hideous
looking. Can these little whip antennas be mounted on the belly? Or,
would a harsh arrival in the boonies snap it off? Probably so. Perhaps
there is an alternative antenna design out there that I don't know
about. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Brian Denk
workin' wings into eternity
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | loz(at)icanect.net (Philip R. Lozman) |
| Subject: | New Orleans RV Builders |
Listers,
I will be in New Orleans from March 19th to the 22nd, and I was wondering if
there were any RV builders in the area who would welcome a visiting builder.
Please respond off list.
Philip Lozman
loz(at)icanect.net
RV-8 Empennage
--
Internet Communications of America, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine pluming and hookup parts |
Listers,
I'm about ready to order a bunch of engine plumbing and hookup parts.
I'll list here what I'm ordering (and what it's for) in hopes that
1. Others may be able to use my work to accelerate their
progress
2. More experienced listers may see errors in my plan or point out
alternate approaches.
FUEL SYSTEM:
- From inside the firewall I'll use an AN833-6D Bulkhead fitting and
an AN924-6D nut for the bulkhead fitting (AN960-C916L washers).
Next I'll use 3/8" aluminum tubing to the gascolator with AN818-6D
nuts and AN819-6D sleeves. I'd like to use firesleeve on the
3/8" tubing. Does anybody know what size to order? AN816-6D
tube/pipe nipple will attach the tube to the ACS gascolator. Another
AN816-6D tube/pipe nipple will attach the gascolator to Aeroquip 666
-6 (3/8") teflon hose with fire sleeve (Lycoming now recommends only
teflon hose) to the mechanical fuel pump on the engine.
- A Van's part number KB-090 90 degree fitting (O ring is required,
not sure if Van's includes them) is used to attach the Aeroquip hose
to the fuel pump. A Van's KB-090-KT fitting goes from the fuel pump
output to another aeroquip hose leading to the carbeurator. The
KB-090-KT has a 1/8" NPT port for fuel pressure measurement. From
that port I'll use an AN816-4 (steel) and a 1/4" aeroquip hose
leading to my fuel pressure transducer mounted on the firewall. As
described later in this email, I'll use an AN-3 bolt to form a
restrictor in the AN816-4 fitting.
- The fuel pressure transducer has a male 1/8" NPT fitting, so I'll
use an AN910-1D coupling to attach an AN816-4D nipple to the
transducer. The tubing end of the nipple will attach to the aeroquip
hose (that's correct, isn't it... Aeroquip hoses have tube style
fittings rather than NPT pipe fittings?)
- To get the fuel from the mechanical fuel pump tot he carb I'll use
firseleeved Aeroquip 666 again, and an AN816-6 (steel) fitting at the
carbeurator.
PRIMER SYSTEM:
- From the top of the ACS gascolator an AN816-2D will connect to
1/8"OD copper tubing using AN818-2D nut and 819-2D sleeve. The
copper tubing runs to an electrically operated valve (ACS #05-29823)
which has 1/8" NPT female fittings. To match those fittings I'll use
AN816-2D nipples and AN818-2D nuts and AN819-2D sleeves. From the
valve copper line (with stress relief loop) will run to the engine.
- The primer system needs to use several "T" fittings to split the
primer line to the various primer ports. The choices for the "T"
fitting are the special union "T" (AN795-2) listed with the primer
fittings in the ACS catalog, or a AN824-2D "T". I elected to go with
the later because it's less expensive. Thus I plan to use the
AN824-2D "T" fitting and AN818-2D nuts and AN819-2D sleves. The
frimer fittings themselves are AN4022-1 fittings, and require an
AN800-2 union cone and AN805-2 union nut. I'm going to have the
primer feed 3 cylinders.
MANIFOLD PRESSURE:
- I think I'll use a primer fitting for this because it's a simple
way to get a restricted fitting (to minimize over-leaning if the line
should break). From the primer fitting I'll use the AN800-2 and
AN805-2 fittings to attach a 1/8" copper line (with stress relief
loop similar to the primer line's) back to the firewall. At the
firewall I'll use AN818-2D and 819-2D hardware to attach the copper
line to an AN823-2D bulkhead fitting secured by an AN924-2D nut.
Inside the cockpit copper line will be used until near the EIS
Manifold Pressure Transducer. The transducer uses a simple 1/8" OD
smooth plastic fitting, so I'll use a piece of flexible 1/8" ID
tubing to go from the copper tube to the transducer.
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR:
My firewall-mounted transducer has a 1/8" NPT male fitting, so I'll
use AN910-1D coupling and AN816-4D to couple the transducer to 1/4"
Aeroquip hose leading to the infamous AN823-4 fitting located
directly below the top right engine mount. To provide a restrictor
fitting at that point I plan to tap the AN823-4 (steel) fitting to
match an AN-3 bolt. I'll drill all the way thru the AN-3 bolt with a
tiny drill, torque the bolt into the fitting, and cut/grind the head
off the bolt (I got this idea from the RV list last year).
CONTROLS:
I plan to use the A-750 Vernier Controls for throttle, prop, and
mixutre. The cables will be secured to home made (plans obtained
from Gary VanRemortel) brackets using saddle clamp and shim from Air
Star (1-800-AIR-STAR, less than $5.00 per clamp/shim combo). I plan
to use 3 ea Cable Safe II to bring the cables thru the firewall. By
the way, on my RV-6A I found that 4 feet was a pretty good length for
each of the control cables. That's good -- I can order from ACS
stock.
OIL SYSTEM
BREATHER LINE
research continues. I'll post tomorrow.
Feel free to send me any ideas or questions you have on my plan.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
----------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Capacitance type fuel tank sensor for RV8 and others |
Many of you have asked me for detailed instructions on how to install flat
plate capacitance fuel tank sensors like the ones that I have installed in
my RV8. Following is a description of how to make and install these sensors
in your RV. Please keep in mind that I can talk much better than I can
write.
You will need the following materials:
.025 2024 T3 aluminum sheet
10 ft of 24 ga TEFLON AIRCRAFT WIRE no substitue, other wire will
deteriorate in gasoline
2 male BNC connectors AMPHENOL NO SUBSTITUTE others will leak
a piece of Delrin rod 1/2" dia. to make spacers from - available from
plastics suppliers
2 interface modules available from Electronics International
FL2C Fuel gauge Electronics International
Start by making the flat plate sensors. You will need 2 plates for each
gas tank. Each plate needs to be approximately 35 sq. inches in area for a
total of approximately 70 inches per tank. Make from 025 aluminum sheet.
Make the flat plates in the approximate configuration of the T804 tank
baffle . It should be 5/8 " less than the height of the T804 tank baffle.
Length is about 6 to 7 inches, enough that you end up with approximately 35
sq inches of plate area. I would suggest that you place them just forward
of the rear flow through hole in the T804. Vertical spacing should be as
follows: place one plate on the inner most T804 space up from the bottom
of the fuel tank 1/8". spacing from the top is not important but should be
at least 1/2". Locate it on the inboard side of the T804 if you have a
standard fuel pick up, and locate it on the outboard side if you have and
aerobatic flop tube pick up. Place the second plate on the outermost T804
and locate it the same for and aft, but change the vertical location so
that the plate is spaced down 1/8" from the top of the tank. Loacate plate
on the inner side of this outer baffle so that when fueling the airplane
you will not disturb the plate with a fuel nozzle or inrushing fuel. It
will be necessary to trim the ends of the tank bottom stiffeners in order
to maintain at least 3/8" clearance from plate sensor. I simply trimed the
end on a 45 deagree angle. The plates must be spaced off from the T804
3/8".
Fabricate spacers from the Delrin to accomplish this. I have been told
that Delrin spacers are available commercially, however, I couldn't find
any when I needed them, so I made them myself. It is very important that
you completely insulate the flat plate sensor from all the rest of the fuel
tank baffles , skin etc. The reason for the 2 sensors is so that you can
get a more accurate reading of the fuel capacity in both full as well as
low modes. My installation will measure to l quart increments. The 2
connectors must be connected electrically to each other. I did this by
installing a piece of 24 ga teflon wire between each sensor and then of to
the BNC connector installed in the T803 root end rib. I would suggest
soldering and eyelet connector rather than crimping. Attach the wire to
the flat plate with a 6-32 x 3/8 mach screw and a Hi temp friction nut(no
plastic insert to deteriorate from gas). Anywhere on the sensor plate is
ok, I installed mine near the center. Route the wire up to the fuel tank
vent line and twist it around the vent line and route it through SB437-4
plastic bushings on the tank baffles. ( I cut a 1/16 x 1/16 notch on the I
D of the bushing). 1 twist every 2 inches is sufficient. Route the wire
from the outer sensor to the inner sensor to the BNC connector. I also put
a few dabs of Proseal on the wire and vent tube to prevent vibration of the
wire. Locate the BNC connector l " aft of the fuel tank vent fitting in
the T803 root end rib. Per DWG 18 "Inverted Fuel Alteration section". When
you have soldered the stripped end of the 24 ga Teflon wire to the BNC it
is very important to thoroughly insulate the wire from the BNC back over
the wire insulation at least 1" with Proseal. If you don't do this it is
possible for moisture to follow the outside of the wire to ground.
Completely cover the BNC connection with Proseal on the inside of the tank.
That completes the sensor installation.
When installing the instrument, you need to place the interface module as
close as possible to the BNC connector outside of the fuel tank. I
installed mine 3 inches downline from the fuel tank.
Technical questions about calibrating the instrument can be answered by Ron
Robinson the engineer at Electronics International in Oregon who helped me
engineer this installation. I bought my instrument from Vans, he had the
best price. Some of you that I talked to, indicated that you were going
to build your own instruments. I think thats a good idea if you are an
electronics expert, however, I don't understand electronis well enough for
that, so I will save money on some other part of the plane.
Please don't ask me to elaborate on this project on the internet. It took
me an hour to write this.
I will be happy to talk to anybody about it on the telephone if you call
me.
I finally have a fuel gauge that works and is accurate.
Dick Martin
Green Bay, Wis
RV8 80124 N233M
920 432 4845 mornings cst
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
tom sargent wrote RV-List message posted by: sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom
sargent)
> I have a recent tail kit with everything "pilot drilled". If
I put the alignment >bushings in the outboard HS413's and stretch the string across,
everything lines up well >except the inboard brackets of the HS413s.
Put another way, a drill rod going
>thru the HS413 makes an angle of 3 deg. with the spar center line. it makes
it hard >to put the bolt thru the rod end bearing. Although I can assemble
it all, it's clearly going to
> be a "pre-stressed assembly".
> I guess I could Any comments? Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
Tom, I just finished my prepunched horizontal stab. When put it on the
H jig with the Avery brackets, I too found that the axis of the 2 center
bearing brackets & bearing (HS 411) was tilted and couldn't get the bolt
through after first pinning the end and intermediate hinges to the Avery
brackets. I never thought it through to installing the elevator like I
think you are doing - I just removed the HS, and with the tip and
intermediate brackets aligned, just took the wood screws out of the
center Avery brackets, pinned them to the HS hinge bracket (even though
misaligned) and just let the center Avery bracket rest on jig, to carry
weight (but not be aligned). I went ahead and riveted the thing up and
stored it on the bed in the guest bedroom and moved to Vertical Stab.
I would be interested to hear other builders comment on whether I'm
going to have a binding problem later on when I hang the elevator (not
built yet). I haven't even had a chance to look ahead at what goes in
that center bearing that is slightly tilted. The other response today
by Jerry Calvert said something about a rod end going in the HS 413 (end
hinge brackets). (?)
David Carter, RV-6, Vertical Stab (bottom rib 1/8 inch too long and
forceing fwd spar fwd so flange centerline doesn't align with
pre-punched holes, just like inbd ribs on H. Stab), Nederland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Austin Tinckler wrote:
>
> March 14,1998..another RV6 took to the skies at Langley, B.C.,..about 8
> miles North of the border. (or a strong beer bottle throw North).
Congratulations on your first flight, I can hardly wait to experience
that first flight RV grin. I 've been practicing but no substitute for
the real thing I'll bet....Congratulations again.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (Wings almost done, fuselage on order)
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine pluming and hookup parts |
>I'm about ready to order a bunch of engine plumbing and hookup parts.
>I'll list here what I'm ordering (and what it's for) in hopes that
>FUEL SYSTEM:
>>From inside the firewall I'll use an AN833-6D Bulkhead fitting and
>an AN924-6D nut for the bulkhead fitting (AN960-C916L washers).
>Next I'll use 3/8" aluminum tubing to the gascolator with AN818-6D
>nuts and AN819-6D sleeves. I'd like to use firesleeve on the
>3/8" tubing. Does anybody know what size to order? AN816-6D
>tube/pipe nipple will attach the tube to the ACS gascolator. Another
>AN816-6D tube/pipe nipple will attach the gascolator to Aeroquip 666
>-6 (3/8") teflon hose with fire sleeve (Lycoming now recommends only
>teflon hose) to the mechanical fuel pump on the engine.
I would caution you against the use of aluminum fittings in the engine
compartment. After about ten hours on my RV-6A, I had an aluminum fitting
develop a leak. Having fuel leaking in the engine compartment, right near
the exhaust scared the s*&t out of me. After this experience and per others
recommendations, all of my fittings in the engine compartment are now steel.
The cost and weight penalty of the steel fittings are minimal compared the
what could develop from fuel spillage near the exhaust.
>
>- A Van's part number KB-090 90 degree fitting (O ring is required,
>not sure if Van's includes them) is used to attach the Aeroquip hose
>to the fuel pump.
The parts from Van's comes with the O-ring
>CONTROLS:
>I plan to use the A-750 Vernier Controls for throttle, prop, and
>mixutre. The cables will be secured to home made (plans obtained
>from Gary VanRemortel) brackets using saddle clamp and shim from Air
>Star (1-800-AIR-STAR, less than $5.00 per clamp/shim combo). I plan
>to use 3 ea Cable Safe II to bring the cables thru the firewall. By
>the way, on my RV-6A I found that 4 feet was a pretty good length for
>each of the control cables. That's good -- I can order from ACS
>stock.
With the ACS cables, I personally found that the throttle and mixture used 3
foot cables while the prop took a 4 foot cable.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
David Carter wrote:
>
> tom sargent wrote:
> >
> > I have a recent tail kit with everything "pilot drilled". >
> If I put the alignment bushings in the outboard HS413's and stretch the > >
string across, everything lines up well except the inboard brackets of
> > the HS413s. Put another way, a drill rod going
> > thru the HS413 makes an angle of 3 deg. with the spar center line.
> > it makes it hard to put the bolt thru the rod end bearing. Although I can
> > assemble it all, it's clearly going to be a "pre-stressed assembly".
>
> Tom, I just finished my prepunched horizontal stab. When put it on the
> H jig with the Avery brackets, I too found that the axis of the 2 center
> bearing brackets & bearing (HS 411) was tilted and couldn't get the bolt
> through after first pinning the end and intermediate hinges to the Avery
> brackets.
Guys, I don't (didn't) have the pre-punched tail, but I can say that the
bearing holes *must* line up. This is a CRITICAL alignment. Tom, it is
not clear to me on which axis your bearings are misaligned, but if the
parts were pre-drilled in assembly at Vans (similar to the wing spars at
Phlogiston), then there will be a way the parts go together in
alignment. If there are no instructions about index marks (again, I am
going by the wing spars), then I would swap the bearing parts around in
various combinations to see if I could find a combo that aligned. Even
computer drilled parts have some variance and are not 100%
interchangable. If this does not help, I would ask Vans for an
undrilled set of brackets and drill them myself once clamped in
alignment on the spar.
David, you too need to revisit your hinges. I hate to say do it over,
as you have already skinned the part and it will be difficult, at best.
Get an IA or Tech Inspector over to look at the problem with you;
perhaps they can suggest a less catastropic fix. However, I reiterate
that it is critical that these bearings line up. At the center, the
elevator control horns are bolted to the center bearing and to a rod end
for the elevator pushrod. Obviously, there can be no offset here. What
is not so apparent is that, if the two hingelines out to the tips are
not perfectly aligned, there will be binding at the control horns, even
if both elevators swing freely independently. Sorry to be the bearer of
bad tidings.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
David Carter wrote:
>
>
>
>
> The other response today by Jerry Calvert said something about a rod >end going
in the HS 413 (end hinge brackets). (?)
>
David,
There are rod bearings on the elevator spar that go between each half of
the HS413 & HS412. Take a look at one and you'll notice that the part of
the bearing that the bolt(the bolts that attaches the HS413's &
HS412's)goes through will swivel around. So, If the HS413's & HS412's
are off just a little, it will compensate because it can swivel.
> David Carter, RV-6, Vertical Stab (bottom rib 1/8 inch too long and
> forceing fwd spar fwd so flange centerline doesn't align with
> pre-punched holes, just like inbd ribs on H. Stab), Nederland, Texas
>
I had a problem getting the HS front spars to line up so the skin holes
were centered on the spar. I used the vice-grip edge bending tool and
bent the rib tabs that attach the front and rear spar just a little.
This shortened the ribs a little. My centerline was right on after
that. I,m just starting the VS and will take a look at those ribs too.
Glad you mentioned it.
Jerry Calvert
-6a emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N95MF <N95MF(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT antenna placement |
Brian and fellow listers, I just unpacked my Ameri-King ELT this last week ,
saw the antenna, and made the same observation. What I am planning on doing
is use one of Bob Archer's sportcraft antenna in one wingtip solely for ELT.
His Comm antenna is for the correct frequency range. He (the designer) told me
it will work. And it is out of the breeze. Mark Goldberg. #80087 finishing kit
underway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT antenna placement |
>
>Brian and fellow listers, I just unpacked my Ameri-King ELT this last week ,
>saw the antenna, and made the same observation. What I am planning on doing
>is use one of Bob Archer's sportcraft antenna in one wingtip solely for ELT.
>His Comm antenna is for the correct frequency range. He (the designer) told me
>it will work. And it is out of the breeze. Mark Goldberg. #80087 finishing kit
>underway
>
>
This might be a good idea as long as the ELT is located close to the
antenna (i.e. in the wing tip). If the ELT is located in the
fuselage I am not convinced it would still be connected to the
wingtip antenna after a crash.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators & wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N13eer <N13eer(at)aol.com> |
Hi All,
While drilling the 1.5" fuel transfer holes in the T-804L ribs for the left
wing tank I inadvertently put the hole on the top side rather than the bottom
of all five ribs. I don't think the fuel will move properly with the hole in
this position so I am now faced with the dilemma of how to fix my mistake.
Options:
1. Call vans and get replacement ribs.
2. Drill another hole and use the top hole as a large vent hole.
3. Drill another hole and fill the top hole with a patch and drill the vent
hole the correct size.
If any one out there has made this mistake please help.
Thanks in advance,
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 wing tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT antenna placement |
>
>Brian and fellow listers, I just unpacked my Ameri-King ELT this last week ,
>saw the antenna, and made the same observation. What I am planning on doing
>is use one of Bob Archer's sportcraft antenna in one wingtip solely for ELT.
>His Comm antenna is for the correct frequency range. He (the designer)
told me
>it will work. And it is out of the breeze. Mark Goldberg. #80087 finishing
kit
>underway
>
Guys,
... caution with this. The ELT installation must meet TSO Standards.
Does the ELT manufacturer approve the use of this tip antenna??
-- for reference:
****************************************
Federal Register Note { attached to FAR sec 91.207 ... Gil }
59 FR 32050, No. 118, June 21, 1994
SUMMARY: This rule requires that newly installed emergency locator
transmitters (ELT's) on U.S.-registered aircraft be of an improved design
that meets the requirements of a revised Technical Standard Order (TSO) or
later TSO's issued for ELT's. This rule is prompted by unsatisfactory
performance experienced with automatic ELT's manufactured under the
original TSO. Further, it addresses certain safety recommendations made by
the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) and the search and rescue
(SAR) community. The FAA is also adopting improved standards for survival
ELT's. The rule is expected to have a dramatic effect on reducing
activation failures and would increase the likelihood of locating airplanes
after accidents. In addition, publication of this document coincides with
notice of the FAA's withdrawal of manufacturing authority for ELT's
produced under TSO- C91.
EFFECTIVE DATE: This document is effective June 21, 1994.
*****************************************
This is one of the few cases where Experimentals are not exempt from
TSO requirements. The ELT must meet the newer TSO C91a, which also means
that you DO have to connect up that little panel mounted display...:^)
... Gil (meet the TSOs where required) Alexander
------------------------------------
RV6A, #20701, finishing kit
"REPLY" sends to entire RV-list
mailto:gila(at)flash.net to reply privately
Newsletter Editors: Permission given to re-print if
credit is given and a courtesy copy is sent to me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)eagle.ais.net> |
| Subject: | How to ruin your Concord battery with 2 extra volts, any comments |
or advice ?
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD5017.759E7230"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD5017.759E7230
I purchased a new Concord sealed battery (X25) for my RV6A and it died =
after one year of use. I think the reason was I had my voltage =
regulator set to high. Initially, I adjusted Vans voltage regulator to =
about 13.6 volts ( which may have been to high for that battery ? ), =
however, over the years time my charging voltage crept upward until it =
reached about 14.5 volts. I kept lazily putting off getting under the =
panel to readjust it. I noticed the battery getting weaker every time I =
went out to the airport, until it was at 8 volts this week.
What should I set that the voltage charging rate to so I don't fry my =
new battery ?
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD5017.759E7230
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
I purchased a new Concord sealed =
battery (X25)=20
for my RV6A and it died after one year of use. I think the reason =
was I=20
had my voltage regulator set to high. Initially, I adjusted Vans =
voltage=20
regulator to about 13.6 volts ( which may have been to high for =
that=20
battery ? ), however, over the years time my charging voltage crept =
upward until=20
it reached about 14.5 volts. I kept lazily putting off getting =
under the=20
panel to readjust it. I noticed the battery getting weaker every =
time I=20
went out to the airport, until it was at 8 volts this week.
What should I set that the voltage =
charging rate=20
to so I don't fry my new battery ?
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD5017.759E7230--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
Please allow me to waste some bandwidth here to express my sincere thanks
for the many kind words I received about the inspiration that first flight
reports convey. In this way, this post is RV related. I have noted many
times on the list the doubt of self confidence, the fear even of failure or
screwing up if the task is attempted to build and fly this RV. I think that
in the end, confidence in yourself and the will to press on is what will
determine if you really can do this thing.
Visit other builders and ask,ask,ask. I, at one time could not fix a
leaky tap, or even knew which end of a hammer to pick up. As for fear and
self doubt, when I was a youth, I loved to ride racehorses for their
morning workouts and to do this I had to get a leg up on some scary beasts
that really scared the **** out of me. But I made myself do it to prove to
myself that I could stare down my fear. Sometimes we both went down hard at
40 mph, but got back up unbroken. I did feel that I could do what I set out
to do.....was it worth it ? YES ! because when it all went right and you
were at one with the ride, it was beyond description, the rhythm and beauty
of it. When you are at one with your RV up in the ether and racing along
with this metal thoroughbred that responds willingly to your two
fingertips..you will then say."I am the singer and this is my song and this
I created and wanted so long".
And tell yourself that if I can do it..you sure can too...Don't forget
that faint heart never won fair lady. ...Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | More Engine Hookup Hardware |
Continuing the thread on the hardware I plan to order for my RV-6A w/
O-360-A1A...
BREATHER:
- The engine's breather fitting is a beaded 3/4" fitting (included
with engine). I plan to use Aeroquip 303-12 (3/4" ID) to go from the
breather fitting to the ACS #10570 Air/Oil Separator. I'll use
stainless steel hose clamps at the engine and the seperator. The
separator has 5/8" fittings, so I'm hoping the hose clamp will be
able to tighten the hose enough to hold it firmly. The 5/8" output
of the separator will go via Aeroquip 303-12 to a piece of 3/4" OD
aluminum tube out the bottom of the cowling. The tube will have a
whistle notch cut in it as recommended by Lycomming (see the Lycoming
Flyer reprints available from Lycoming tech support) to prevent a
frozen breather tube end from causing an engine oil seal to
rupture.
- The return line from the air/oil separator will go via
Aeroquip 303-something (don't know the size of the separator port
yet) to an AN807-6D hose fitting, which will attach to a short piece
of 3/8" aluminum tubing leading to an AN 824-6D "T" fitting. The "T"
fitting will go in the existing oil return line from one of the
cylinder heads.
OIL COOLER:
- Both the "from cooler" and "to cooler" fittings on the engine will
be AN823-8 steel 45 degree fittings. I plan to use Aeroquip 666-8
(without firesleeve) to go to and from Van's oil cooler. The
fittings at the oil cooler will be AN822-8D (90 degree) fittings.
Right now I plan to mount the oil cooler on the right hand
side of the firewall about where the cross braces meet. ( I have a
parking brake valve and prop governor that cause interference on the
left hand side of the firewall.)
Thoughts/ideas/opinions?
Thanks
Tim Lewis
----------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
Tim Lewis wrote:
> OIL COOLER:
> - Both the "from cooler" and "to cooler" fittings on the engine will
> be AN823-8 steel 45 degree fittings. I plan to use Aeroquip 666-8
> (without firesleeve) to go to and from Van's oil cooler. The
Tim
Why are you not using firesleeve on the oil cooler lines?
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to ruin your Concord battery with 2 extra |
volts, any comments or advice ?
I believe the correct charging voltage is NO MORE than 14.2 volts.
> I noticed the battery getting weaker every time I went out to
>the airport, until it was at 8 volts this week. What should I set that
>the voltage charging rate to so I don't fry my new battery ?
>rvgasj(at)mcs.com
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
Seattle WA USA
1974 1/2 JH-5
RV-6 N16JA (FOR SALE--- Call 206-525-5445 or email for details)
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
March 07, 1998 - March 15, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ej