RV-Archive.digest.vol-ek
March 15, 1998 - March 21, 1998
| From: | "David L. Macintire" <dave_mac(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
tom sargent wrote:
> If I put the alignment bushings in the outboard HS413's and stretch
> the string across, everything lines up well except the inboard > brackets of
the HS413s. They're off by about 0.022.
Tom,
I would ask Van to send you some HS-413's without the holes in them, or
at least one. Then you could align them exactly and then backdrill
through the bottom of the spar. You should still have pretty good edge
distances doing this. It is interesting to read problems encountered
with the new kits with pre-punched holes. I had the non-prepunched
empenage kit, but I have almost started with my wing kit which is
pre-punched. Hope this helps. By the way, where are you from?
Dave Macintire
Orlando, FL
RV-6 LE/trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
I inadvertently put the hole on the top side rather than the bottom
>Options:
>1. Call vans and get replacement ribs.
I think you should start over. You are not that far along.
Don Jordan~~ 6A-wings~~ Arlington,Tx
donspawn(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
<< The engine's breather fitting is a beaded 3/4" fitting (included
with engine). I plan to use Aeroquip 303-12 (3/4" ID) to go from the
breather fitting to the ACS #10570 Air/Oil Separator. I'll use
stainless steel hose clamps at the engine and the seperator. The
separator has 5/8" fittings, so I'm hoping the hose clamp will be
able to tighten the hose enough to hold it firmly.>>
Tim-
Just replace the fitting on the engine with an AN840-10D Hose Nipple. Even
the big Continentals (6 cylinder dual turboed) use 5/8" oil breather fittings
so I wouldn't worry about inadequate capacity. Then you can go down to the
local Ford dealer and get some of the blue Motorcraft 5/8" ID silicone rubber
heater hose that they use on police cars (you may have to call around). Use
this hose for the entire oil breather system down to a 5/8" dia aluminum tube
just above the pipe. Slice a whistle notch in the hose just above the
aluminum tube to deal with the icing issue.
<< The return line from the air/oil separator will go via
Aeroquip 303-something (don't know the size of the separator port
yet) to an AN807-6D hose fitting, which will attach to a short piece
of 3/8" aluminum tubing leading to an AN 824-6D "T" fitting. The "T"
fitting will go in the existing oil return line from one of the
cylinder heads.>>
IMO, don't bother. After the first 2 fl oz of water (neutral pH tested)
gathered during the very first flight, there's not enough moisture retrieved
to put in your eye. I run my condensate drain into a clear Matco brake fluid
reservoir equipped with a curtis valve. I modified the ACS separator by fly
cutting a large hole in the front of it and installing a cover (similar to the
technique used on the fuselage rear access covers) and installed two large s/s
"brillo" pads rolled into one another as media. I get virtually nothing out
of the breather on a new O-360 engine. Of course I'm in a relatively dry area
(SF Bay).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV Flying)
(just back from flight over GG Bridge and along the Pacific Coast from SFO
down to WVI and back to LVK via Lick Observatory). What a cool plane!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | How much space behind RV-8 instrument panel? |
RV-Listers,
I am building an RV-8 - finishing tail kit and starting on the wings.
I am starting to think about the layout of my instrument panel. I've
looked at the preview plans, but can't determine exactly how much
room there is between the F-803 instrument panel and the F-866
baggage hold bulkhead. Is there the same amount of depth available
behind all areas of the panel, or are there other things that get in
the way in some areas?
I am thinking about buying the Panel Planner software package. I
understand that it has a template of the RV-8 instrument panel. How
accurate is the template? I have seen all the previous listing
raving about how good a package Panel Planner is, so I don't need any
testimonials - I just need to know how well it works for the RV-8.
What about access behind the panel? From studying the preview plans,
it looks like the only access as designed is by unscrewing the panel
and pulling it aft - how well does that work in practice?. Has
anyone designed any other way to access the back of the panel?
TIA
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators & wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Video Tape |
Dr. John Cocker wrote:
>
>
> I would like a copy of the tape, please mail to
> Dr John Cocker
> 16787 Warden Avenue, RR 3,.
> Newmarket ON L3Y 4W1
> Canada
>
> Charge to VISA XXX
> Thanks
Hi John,
You inadvertantly posted your Visa number to several hundred RV listers. While
I certainly
hope that 100% of them are honest folks, I would exercise extreme caution when
using
credit cards over the Internet.I speak from experience. I had a mysterious $20
USD per
month charge appear on my Visa, and it took over six months to resolve the issue,
although
Visa did refund most of the charges in the end.
I would suggest you scrutinize your bill for the next couple of months. Truly secure
Internet credit card transactions are not yet a reality.
Just some friendly advice.
Curt Reimer, P.Eng.
Winnipeg, MB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Tank Ribs |
N13eer wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> While drilling the 1.5" fuel transfer holes in the T-804L ribs for the left
> wing tank I inadvertently put the hole on the top side rather than the bottom
> of all five ribs. I
I have a 6, but I think that the tank construction is similar. I don't remember
the transfer hole size but I would not hesitate to cut the holes on the proper
side and keep on building like nothing had happened. If your really uncomfortable
about this, call Van's and see what they say.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A Skinning Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
Alan:
You wrote: "... I don't think the fuel will move properly with the
hole in
this position so I am now faced with the dilemma of how to fix my
mistake.
Options:
1. Call vans and get replacement ribs.
2. Drill another hole and use the top hole as a large vent hole.
3. Drill another hole and fill the top hole with a patch and drill
the vent
hole the correct size."
I'd suggest getting new ribs from Vans, but option 3 would probably
also be okay. Option 2 won't work...you need to put a piece of tubing
through the vent holes.
Good luck.
George
]#80006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | RV8 ELT antenna placement |
Brian:
How about mounting the ELT antenna on the vertical stabilizer?
G'day.
George
#80006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plugs (O-360-A1A Massives) |
What plug are those of you running the new O-360 using. Mine came with a set
of REM38E plugs installed. Despite my aggressive leaning on the ground and
proper idle mixture, I keep getting a slight loading up of the plugs that
needs to be cleared at the runup. My buddy runs an 0-320 and uses the REM40E
plugs (supposedly hotter). Would these help? Further, what is the story with
the REM37BY plugs? How about fine wire types?
Lyc Service Instruction 1042T says that either of these types may be used, but
I would like comments from those of you with first hand experience running a
new engine. What say you?
TIA,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
I just wanted to offer this to anyone who is intereted.
I have a JPG file of a RV-6, tip-up line drawing. This would be great
for anyone who might want to figure out their paint scheme on their
computer.
Just drop me a private e-mail at glenng(at)megsinet.net
I will be happy to send it out. If you need a format other than JPG, I
can probably convert it, however it might not get to you as quick.
-Glenn Gordon
far from painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
> > I have a recent tail kit with everything "pilot drilled". If
I put the alignment >bushings in the outboard HS413's and stretch the string
across, everything lines up well >except the inboard brackets of the HS413s.
I think you could live with a slight misalignment but not of the magnitude that
you describe. The pre-punched parts gives the builder the misconception that
all he has to do is cleco the parts together, drill the hole to the proper size
and rivet. I fell into this trap on my
F-604 fuselage bulkhead. This is the bulkhead pre drilled at Phlogiston with the
wing spars. I clecoed the parts together, stuffed in some rivets and back riveted
them. There was enough slop in the rivet holes that the parts could move
around to the tune of being 1/4" to narrow
at the top of the bulkhead. I carefully drilled out my rivets, squared the parts
up and re-riveted. Came out great the second time around.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A Skinning Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>tom sargent wrote RV-List message posted by: sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom
>sargent)
>> I have a recent tail kit with everything "pilot drilled".
If I put the alignment >bushings in the outboard HS413's and stretch the
string across, everything lines up well >except the inboard brackets of the
HS413s. Put another way, a drill rod going
>>thru the HS413 makes an angle of 3 deg. with the spar center line.
it makes it hard >to put the bolt thru the rod end bearing. Although I can
assemble it all, it's clearly going to
>> be a "pre-stressed assembly".
>> I guess I could Any comments? Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
Tom,
I wouldn't worry about it. One of mine I think came out that way. I just
cleaned the holes up with a pass through with a 3/16 drill bit and forgot
about it. The way the rod-end brg works makes it unnecessary for these to
be perfect, at least from a functional standpoint. It makes it kind of a
pain in the butt to get the bolt through when hanging the elevator, but once
in there and tight the bolt will line everything up. The amount of
prestress that a .022" misalignment would impose would be negligible. Just
please don't fly over my house.....
Only kidding!! Keep building!!
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Tank Ribs |
>
>Hi All,
>While drilling the 1.5" fuel transfer holes in the T-804L ribs for the left
>wing tank I inadvertently put the hole on the top side rather than the bottom
>of all five ribs. I don't think the fuel will move properly with the hole in
>this position so I am now faced with the dilemma of how to fix my mistake.
>Options:
>1. Call vans and get replacement ribs.
>2. Drill another hole and use the top hole as a large vent hole.
>3. Drill another hole and fill the top hole with a patch and drill the vent
>hole the correct size.
Personally, I don't like to screw around with the design of a proven
fuel system, so I would not leave the extra holes. The extra vent
holes could let fuel slosh around more causing problems in turbulence
when low on fuel.
I think that the top part of the tank rib would be in compression,
and the bottom in tension due to the lift in positive g flight. I
would expect that the bottom would be more highly loaded than the
top, so if a 1.5 inch hole is OK in the bottom corner, it should be
OK in the top. So, it should be OK to put little patches over the
holes. Nothing fancy, a bit of leakage should be OK.
Just my opinion - I am no expert.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators & wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 canopy drillining |
Fellow Listers:
This question is for a fellow builder not on the Internet who is in the
process of working on his RV-4 canopy. He is in the initial stages of
fitting the skirt to the canopy and then to the steel framework. Van's
instructions call for to "tack" the sides of the skirt to the steel frame
through the canopy with a number of pop rivets to hold everything together
during the fitting process. My friend is aware that you should drill the
holes in the canopy itself somewhat larger than normal to allow for
expansion of the pop rivets and also thermal expansion so as to not stress
the canopy. His questions is how did other RV-4 builders drill these holes
in assembly to a larger size without also ending up with the pop rivet holes
in the skirtt and the steel frame oversize also (thus effecting the proper
attachment of the pop rivets). Hope I explained all this clearly!
*******************************************
Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Reading ahead... |
>I haven't even had a chance to look ahead at what goes in
>that center bearing that is slightly tilted. The other response today
>by Jerry Calvert said something about a rod end going in the HS 413 (end
>hinge brackets). (?)
It might behoove some of us to read ahead and spend some time familiarizing
ourselves with the details of what it is that we're building (the airplane,
that is). I certainly don't want to point any fingers or step on any toes,
but it certainly does make building easier to know how what you're building
at the time will interact with something else you will build in the future
or have built in the past.
I bought my pre-view plans in May, 97 while living with my parents and
waiting for our new house to be built. I had RV fever BAD and at the same
time, not having any place to build, the only RV-related activity I could do
was read my plans and learn about the enormous project I was embarking on.
I consider this time priceless in terms of the project. It has really
helped thus far.
-off of soapbox-
Keep building.....
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)startext.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to ruin your Concord battery with 2 extra |
volts, any comments or advice ?
John Ammeter wrote:
>
>
> I believe the correct charging voltage is NO MORE than 14.2 volts.
My notes of wisdom collected from the List indicate that RG batteries
should be charged at 14.4 to 14.8 v.
Will (Keeping notes) Cretsinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Tank Ribs |
N13eer wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
> While drilling the 1.5" fuel transfer holes in the T-804L ribs for the left
> wing tank I inadvertently put the hole on the top side rather than the bottom
> of all five ribs. I don't think the fuel will move properly with the hole in
> this position so I am now faced with the dilemma of how to fix my mistake.
> Options:
> 1. Call vans and get replacement ribs.
> 2. Drill another hole and use the top hole as a large vent hole.
> 3. Drill another hole and fill the top hole with a patch and drill the vent
> hole the correct size.
> If any one out there has made this mistake please help.
> Thanks in advance,
> Alan Kritzman
> RV-8 wing tanks
>
The one thing that has bugged for the nine years I have been
flying my RV-6 is that when I fuel it up it takes a long time to
fill the tanks as they get towards full because fuel will go in
faster than the small vent holes in the top of the ribs will allow
the air to escape. If I was to build again I would drill some bigger
vent holes in the top of the ribs to allow faster fueling. I would
leave the holes and drill some new holes along side for the vent line.
JMO
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
<< The 5/8" output
of the separator will go via Aeroquip 303-12 to a piece of 3/4" OD
aluminum tube out the bottom of the cowling. The tube will have a
whistle notch cut in it as recommended by Lycomming (see the Lycoming
Flyer reprints available from Lycoming tech support) to prevent a
frozen breather tube end from causing an engine oil seal to
rupture. >>
I'm at this point in my engine plumbing also. Can't figure for the life of me
how that tube coould ever freeze, though. It's in the engine compartment on
the "hot" side of the engine coling air, with hot crankcase blow-by gasses
flowing through it.... the end can terminate between the exhaust stacks, well
inside the bottom cowl. (right?) If the tip can freeze (moisture from
exhaust gasses??) why can't the whistle notch also freeze? Won't the notch
leak oily residue and defeat the purpose of venting this stuff overboard??
Bill B
not planning on a whistle notch at this point, just to be obstinate
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com |
Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to the second
to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to dimple
the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my pop rivet dimpler
and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole without success.
Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this point.
Mark
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV-6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Tank Ribs |
GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com wrote:
> 1. Call vans and get replacement ribs.
> 2. Drill another hole and use the top hole as a large vent hole.
> 3. Drill another hole and fill the top hole with a patch and drill
> the vent
> hole the correct size."
>
> I'd suggest getting new ribs from Vans, but option 3 would probably
> also be okay. Option 2 won't work...you need to put a piece of tubing
> through the vent holes.
I agree... At the very least, he should patch the hole in the inboard
rib, but I think patching them all would be better.
If he's considering aerobatics then it's worth thinking about what
will happen when inverted or pulling lateral Gs -- fuel will rush
sideways through those large holes, perhaps leaving the flop tube
sucking air. Note also that there's no anti-surge stiffeners on the
upper skin.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone Live in Redding, Calif? |
I am building an RV-8 and am contemplating a move to the Redding, California
area. If any of you are in or around Redding, please E-mail me,as I would like
to know some things such as hangar availability, RV-activity, etc. Contact off
list. Thanks!
Von Alexander
Oregon
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy drillining |
<< His questions is how did other RV-4 builders drill these holes
in assembly to a larger size without also ending up with the pop rivet holes
in the skirtt and the steel frame oversize also (thus effecting the proper
attachment of the pop rivets). Hope I explained all this clearly!
>>
Doug,
Instead of tacking with pop rivets try cleco's. Initially drill
everything with #30 holes. Before final assembly disasemble and step up the
holes in the (plexi only) to the desired oversize. Some will disagree but I
found a #27 worked perfectly. Afterward make sure the edges around the holes
are burr free and all of the work hardened material is removed prior to final
riveting.
Ryan Bendure
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | seaok71302(at)juno.com (mike a adams) |
While we're on the fuel tank....
comments, suggestions, recommendations, considerations,
and points of interest on the scratch built fuel pickup VS the optional
finger screen.
Thank you
Mike Adams -4 #2316
_____________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McCall <mccall(at)cayman.ds.boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's College Oz |
On Sun, 15 Mar 1998, Carol Richards wrote:
>
> We are holding the first Australian 'Van's College' in June. We will have
> about 20 participants working for two days gaining hands-on skills and
> confidence to tackle their own projects.
> We are assembling a WORKSHOP MANUAL which will be sent to participants
> prior to the weekend workshop. There will be a section entitled, 'What I
> Wish I'd Known Before I Started or HINTS, SLICK TOOLS, AND CHEAP TRICKS.'
> If any listers have any of the above which aren't already common knowledge
> we'd appreciate hearing from you.
> If your contributions are detailed, lengthy or have enclosures you can
> e-mail direct. Many thanks, Sam Richards - RV-6 (ribs on wings)
This sounds really valuable. Can you make the manual available to others
once it's ready?
Don McCall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F Mark40 <FMark40(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 3/16/98 1:06:52 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
> Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the
> second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
> dimple the last hole.
I took the dimple dies and squeezed them with a pair of modified vise-grips.
Use a piece of nail about 1/4" long to keep the dies aligned. The vise-grip
mod simply involves grinding the nose down to fit into the narrowest point you
need to dimple.
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy drillining |
<< My friend is aware that you should drill the
holes in the canopy itself somewhat larger than normal to allow for
expansion of the pop rivets and also thermal expansion so as to not stress
the canopy. His questions is how did other RV-4 builders drill these holes
in assembly to a larger size without also ending up with the pop rivet holes
in the skirtt and the steel frame oversize also (thus effecting the proper
attachment of the pop rivets). Hope I explained all this clearly! >>
I understand what you've said. Here's my $.02: With the canopy tack riveted
(3/32" pops, right?) in place, remove the skirts. Use a $ #1 unibit (the
smallest one). The tip is 1/8", and the next size is 5/32". The tip will pilot
in the existing holes, and the next step will ream the plexi a bit oversize.
De-burr the back side, countersink the front (a bit deeper than usual), and
presto! You're in business!
I will say that some -4's have what appears to be a 4 pc skirt system. These
fellas have used a "V" shaped pc at the tail end to get a better fit. This
area of the factory skirts sometimes fits, and sometimes doesn't. 1/2" UHMW
tape at the skirt edges where they would touch the turtledeck will reduce
chafing to a minimum.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO" <lewisth(at)af.pentagon.mil> |
| Subject: | All-Steel Fittings in Engine Compartment? |
Listers,
A fellow lister (Scott Gesele) recommended that I go with all steel
fittings EVERYWHERE within the engine compartment. Lycoming and many
A&Ps recommended using only steel fittings when attaching to the engine
itself, but I hadn't heard previous advice to use steel EVERYWHERE in
the engine compartment. I asked Scott for his experience. Here's what
he said:
"Out of the firewall was an AN aluminum bulkhead 90 connected to a
Flowscan
turbine, for fuel flow. The Flowscan turbine is connected to the
firewall
by a bracket. Out of the Flowscan was an AN aluminum 45. Aeroquip hose
is
connected to the 45, the other end of the hose connects to the engine
driven
fuel pump. All AN aluminum fittings have been replaced with steel. The
leak developed in the aluminum 45 AN fitting coming out of the Flowscan
turbine. Take a close look at an aluminum fitting of this general
style.
They appear to be cast in two halves and then joined lenthwise. My leak
developed in both seams where the two halves were joined. This was
verified by applying compressed air to the fitting. The leaks was quite
impressive. I should have saved the fitting, but tossed it as I have no
intention of accidentally installing it in my airplane.
Consider the possible consequences of fuel leaks in the engine
compartment.
The steel fittings aren't that much heavier or expensive."
What's the experience of others? Was Scott's an isolated case of a
defective fitting, or have other folks experienced similar failure in
aluminum fittings in the engine compartment?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
Springfield VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Hi Austin,
Congratulations on the first flight. My cheeks got tired just putting
myself in your place. Keep up informed thru the test period.
Cecil
You wrote:
I can't remember much of the 17 mile drive home. I do know that the
famous 'RV grin' was making my cheeks tired. Just one last comment which
might prove useful for those that are debating slider against tip-up
canopy. I really like the tip-up because it looks so racy and cool and
unobstructed visibility like a helicopter, but guess what, I have a
slider because I want to be cool on hot days and I worried whether the
frame and side posts would get in the way. Well, it is no different than
the cars we drive every day that have door posts in your peripheral
vision and I didn't even think about it on landing. Visibility is just
fine. Thanks for listening...Austin
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plugs (O-360-A1A Massives) |
<< I keep getting a slight loading up of the plugs that needs to be cleared at
the runup. >>
Make sure you run your engine hard (hi rpm) while in flight. This will raise
your cht's which should help scavange the lead out. You might want to run the
engine at 1000 rpm for 30 or more seconds at a lean mixture prior to shut-
down.
<>
I know they work for the O-320's but not sure about the 360's.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N95MF <N95MF(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How much space behind RV-8 instrument panel? |
Kevin, and other -8 builders. Behind the -8 panel there is around 12.5 inches
to the rear part of the baggage compartment. This is adequate for most radios.
I did have to send one back when I discovered it wouldn't fit. It was a Val
ILS 400. The radio itself is over 12.5 inches long, and then there are the
plugs that plug into it that are 1.5 inches long. As far as servicing the
radios by unscrewing and pulling out the center panel, I am curious about this
also. I figured I would leave a little extra wire (or pitot line, etc) so the
panel could be pulled forward to get at things. The panel planner does have a
template for the -8. I found it to be not accurate in size and dimensions. I
would just get someone with an undrilled panel to make a paper one-cheaper and
exactly what you will have to work with. Good luck, Mark Goldberg #80087
finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Speaking of Overvoltage... |
I installed a new sealed liquid battery recently. With my old battery my
system would charge at 14.4 to 14.8 volts. I installed the new battery (the
only change) and now I'm charging from 14.6 to 15.5 volts! Could it be the
combination of a new battery and the cold Wx (it was 30 degrees Sunday).
Any thoughts?
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dbergh(at)micron.net |
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>
> Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to the
second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to dimple
the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my pop rivet
dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole without success.
Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this point.
>
> Mark
> mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
> RV-6A
> Sacramento
>
Hi Mark,
Averys "Vice Grip" dimplers work well in these tight spots but
they are a little pricey ($28 I think) for the amount of use they get.
Dave Bergh
-6 wings
Mtn Home ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Nolan <nv_nolan(at)apollo.commnet.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Video Tape |
Do you still have one of these fiberglass/composite tapes left? If so,
please advise and I'll CALL you with billing info.
Thanks.
Ed
>
>We have purchased a small quantity (5) of an EAA produced
>fiberglass/composite instructional video tape which we meant to include
>in the RV-ation bookstore catalog. (Yes, there is fiberglass work to be
>done on your RV.)
>
>Unfortunately, after watching the tape, I have found that the type of
>glass work is describes (fiberglass/foam layups, square joints, hot
>knifing, etc) is not the type of work done on the RV finishing kit
>(filling, forming, bonding)
>
>Thus, I have decided NOT to include this tape in our catalog, as it is
>not very appropriate for RVs. They seem produced mostly for an
>introduction to Long-Eze type building methods.
>
>Meanwhile, I have these 5 tapes to get rid of, and would be glad to sell
>them at our cost of $12 each. If you want one, e-mail or call direct at
>970-887-2207. This tape is not getting on our web page.
>
>I'm still looking for a more appropriate glass work tape that would be
>more specific to our needs. If you know of one, please let me know.
>
>Andy Gold
>RV-ation Bookstore
>www.rvbookstore.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to ruin your Concord battery with 2 extra volts, any |
commen
<< My notes of wisdom collected from the List indicate that RG batteries
should be charged at 14.4 to 14.8 v. >>
I don't know where you got your info, but RG batteries should be charged at no
more than 2.35V per cell (6 in your 12V battery = 14.1V). So says the RG tech
experts at Battery Man magazine.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT antenna placement |
>Brian:
>
>How about mounting the ELT antenna on the vertical stabilizer?
>
>G'day.
>
>George
>
>#80006
For another idea on how to mount the ELT, check out Phil Arter's page on the
fuselage at http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/fuse2.html where he has the antenna
in the cockpit between the front and back seats.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Macintire" <dave_mac(at)bellsouth.net> |
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>
> Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, > to the
second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't > manage to dimple
the last hole.
Mark,
Did you try using the dimple die set pop rivet dimpler with a copper
nail? I could usually bend the copper nail enough to reach just about
any hole. Otherwise, put a rivet in the hole, put two small pieces of
0.032" aluminum with a #40 hole drilled in them (stack them together) to
act as a bucking bar; and clamp these pieces in there snug. Put another
piece of aluminum over the rivet head. Then take a small vise grip
pliers and squeeze lightly. That should provide you an adequate dimple.
Buck the rivet with a cold chisel and use a rivet gun very carefully to
finish the job. Hope this helps.
Dave Macintire
Orlando, FL
LE/trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bstobbe(at)corotec.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole >at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage
to dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening >the length of the nail of
my pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the
>hole without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything
at this point.
Here's another way to get dimples into really tight spots. Get a small
piece of steel, nothing fancy, about 1/4 x 1/4 x 1 inch long. Drill a #40
hole close to one end and countersink the hole more than you normally would
for a flush rivet. Try to work it out so that the edge of the c'sink is
right at the edge of the steel piece - then you will be able to dimple
holes just about anywhere.
Put a short flush rivet (one that won't extend beyond the thickness of your
new die) into the hole you want to dimple and your new steel die on the
opposite side. Use your squeezer and flush rivet sets to force the rivet
into your die, which forms a dimple in the part. Note that if you use the
flush sets in your squeezer you do not need to be centered on the rivet
head to make this work - just make sure you cover the rivet head with the set.
Try it out on scrap first to see if you like the results. The dimples
produced are not as good as those you are used to seeing from your high
quality dies and squeezer, but they're good enough for most situations.
Bruce Stobbe
RV6
canopy stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 information |
Hi All!
This is my first attempt at sending out a message on this list, so. . . .?
I'm purchasing an RV-3 project (serial # 45), and know that i need to put
the revisions and the spar mods on the aircraft that is approximately
80-90% complete. In realistic terms, how much work is it to have to drill
out the wing skins and incorporate the mods supplied by Vans? How much
work would it be to incorporate the wing fuel at the same time as the mods?
If there is anyone who has done the mod, I'd love to talk to you direct
(reece(at)rt66.com). Thanks for your time.
Rob Reece
_________________________________________
Rob Reece
Scorpius Range Coordinator / Liaison Engineer
Microcosm/InfoTech
c/o EMRTC
New Mexico Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
Phone: (505) 835-5716
Fax: (505) 835-5714/5680
Email: reece(at)rt66.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote Radios |
>we'll be using the Infinity grips with as much HOTAS as possible. I've
>searched several manufacturer's web pages, but can't seem to weed out which
>radios support both frequency selection and flip-flop using remote switches.
>Can anybody recommend any that do (prefer gps/comm combo but the remote comm
>capability is more important), and any comments on how exactly you have *your*
>Infinity grip or the like hooked up function-wise.......
I have the Infinity grip and HIGHLY recommend it. It is well made and both
comfortable and functional, just the right size for a gloved or bare hand.
I have the "china hat" hooked to the ICOM 2000 radio with which you can
select a preprogrammed channel and/or flip-flop the channels from the
standby. I also have a hookup the the press-to-ident for the transponder.
REALLY handy. These airplanes go too fast to be down in the cockpit very
long changing channels etc. I also have my landing/taxi lights on the grip.
The trigger is hooked to the 50 caliber machine guns........I mean it's
hooked to the push-to-talk.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Formative Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose/Tail Chatter |
>...it makes me wonder what their real intent is; perhaps to pump out airline
>captains, not pilots.
>You were doing pretty well till you got to the last sentence.
>
>Maybe you would be so kind as to share the difference between a pilot
>and an Airline Captain.
>
>Don
Hey, Don: Oooh, ow, yikes! SORRY about that!! I didn't catch what that
sentence may have implied until you said something. That was NOT the intent
of that statement! My gripe was about those flight schools whose sole
intent seems to be churning out as many airline captains as possible, rather
than teaching folks how to fly. OOOooooo. (I just read it again.)
With your 44 years of flying experience, I KNOW you have seen some major
changes and much of it isn't pretty. I have 26 years (99% tailwheel) and,
even in that "short" time, have seen aviation in a major state of change. (I
reflect back on the "good old days" of aviation when I learned to fly; that
wasn't THAT long ago!) And I am not sure how to change things. I think
perhaps a start may be making folks aware, to look at themselves or those
around them to see if they are part of the problem. I have tried in my
little ways (the posts you see on this list are an example) to try and make
things better. Your post offering the tailwheel time brought a spontaneous
cheer from me when I read it, and I replied to your post: that was great!
Thanks for the note. I will be more careful in the future to be more
exacting in what I am trying to say.
Keep them tails a'draggin',
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>
> Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to the
second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to dimple
the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my pop rivet
dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole without success.
Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this point.
>
Mark,
I haven't dimpled those yet, but I took a look at them and tried my
vice-grip dimplers for a fit . It takes just a little work, but it looks
like they will do the job if the rivet hole is in the center of the
flange. They are just small vice-grips that have dimple dies welded to
them. I got mine from Avery. I would imagine that the other tool
vendors have them also. Possibly a builder near you has one they might
loan you. Another way to do it is take a piece of flat steel plate that
has a 3/32" hole drilled and countersunk(I wouldn't use my countersink
bit for this! There may be a drill bit available with the right angle)
for a rivet. The countersunk hole is near the edge of the plate. A
rivet is put in the rib hole and the plate placed under the rib flange
with the rivet going into the hole in the plate. Take you rivet gun and
tap the rivet. The rivet will press the flange into the countersunk
plate and form the dimple. It may sound like a lot of trouble to make,
but it probably would be useful in other areas too.
Jerry Calvert
-6a Edmond Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bright <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder... I can't manage to
dimple the last hole.
I bent the nail in two places, straightened it after insertion, broke it
with the squeezer.
John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john.bright(at)bigfoot.com,
H:757-886-1161, W:757-875-7324, RV-6/6A 25088, elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy drillining |
Mark,
Any problems with that Unibit causing cracking of the plexi? After the
horror stories Ive heard, I would be hesitant to use anything but a plexi
bit on my canopy.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (fuse)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>I understand what you've said. Here's my $.02: With the canopy tack riveted
>(3/32" pops, right?) in place, remove the skirts. Use a $ #1 unibit (the
>smallest one). The tip is 1/8", and the next size is 5/32". The tip will pilot
>in the existing holes, and the next step will ream the plexi a bit oversize.
>Check six!
>Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
>
>March 14,1998..another RV6 took to the skies at Langley, B.C.,.. I was
>surprised at just how busy I was.
>Some instruments need verifying and airspeed was 140 with about 2300 rpm on
>an electric tach, no wheel fairings as yet. I have a Sterba 69x69,
>
>Great Austin!
I know the felling! I have a 69x69 by a Surrey fellow and find myself a
little slower than some of the guys on the list but also am flying in the
north coast BC. Climb is super and I really have to watch running over
citiberas and the like.
Would really like some imfo from you as to procedures in and out of
langley as have relitives there and finally finished the paint job on RV-6
C-FXXG. Ready to adventure around. Would love to see your craft. Am planing
for a trip this summer your way.
Sounds like running your oil cooler open should do the trick.
Congrats again, nice to have a new 6 not far away!
Ed Hobenshield.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plugs (O-360-A1A Massives) |
<< << I keep getting a slight loading up of the plugs that needs to be cleared
at
the runup. >>
Make sure you run your engine hard (hi rpm) while in flight. This will raise
your cht's which should help scavange the lead out. You might want to run
the
engine at 1000 rpm for 30 or more seconds at a lean mixture prior to
shutdown.>>
Gary-
Yes, I do that too and though it seems to help somewhat, I feel that it is
still not optimum. I want to try the REM40E plugs but the cost to fit is
daunting if they don't solve the problem. Are you using the REM38E or the 40
plugs in yours?
Thx,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of Overvoltage... |
<< I installed the new battery (the
only change) and now I'm charging from 14.6 to 15.5 volts! Could it be the
combination of a new battery and the cold Wx (it was 30 degrees Sunday).
Any thoughts? >>
Gary-
Only one. Yikes!!! Can you say poof? How is your battery temperature after
1/2 hr of charging at this high voltage? A linear reg w/crowbar would
probably be a good investment IMO.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary kozinski" <KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | Steel vs. Aluminum Fittings |
The question was raised as to the type of fittings we should use firewall forward.
It is correct that steel is the preferred material for all critical fittings firewall
forward. Per a conversation with our local designated inspector, he said
a common mistake he saw were people using aluminum which just can't handle
the vibrations and eventually will fail. Sure, there will be the exception but
its not worth the chance and shouldn' t even be disputed. Don't skimp on the
important stuff.
Gary RV-6 20038 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Dunlap <chuck(at)zekes.com> |
>
> Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to the
second to last
hole at the
> narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to dimple the last hole. I've tried
shortening the
length of
> the nail of my pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through
the hole
without
> success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this point.
>
Mark - I made a female dimple die out of a scrap of 3/8" steel plate and
mounted it in a vise, then use it to dimple the rib as usual with the
male die in the rivet gun. I made the special die by drilling #40 near
the corner edge of the plate (about 2" x 3")and then machine
countersinking it. I also used a plate in this way (mounted in the vise)
as a bucking bar for those same hard to reach rivets. Works really good
and its cheap to make.
Chuck Dunlap
S.E. Arizona
RV-4 Flying, working on RV-6 canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to ruin your Concord battery with 2 extra |
volts, any comments or advice ?
| From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
>I purchased a new Concord sealed battery (X25) for my RV6A and it died
>after one year of use. I think the reason was I had my voltage =
>regulator set to high. Initially, I adjusted Vans voltage regulator
>to about 13.6 volts ( which may have been to high for that battery ?
),
>however, over the years time my charging voltage crept upward until it
>reached about 14.5 volts. I kept lazily putting off getting under the
Was this the initial charging voltage (within 30 minutes of engine
start), or was it charging at that voltage all of the time? I have the
fixed regulator from Van's and it reads about 15.5v at startup, then
settles down to around 14.5v after 30 minutes or so. I have been told by
Bob Nuckols and others that this is about right for an RG battery.
Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy@juno.com - http://members.aol.com/rv67em/
-
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | RG battery charging/testing specs |
<< I don't know where you got your info, but RG batteries should be charged at
no
more than 2.35V per cell (6 in your 12V battery = 14.1V). So says the RG
tech
experts at Battery Man magazine.
-GV
>>
Mr GV is correct- I have the owners manual/logbook for the RG25XC in front of
me:
To test for airworthiness (every 600 hrs or annually):
Make sure the battery is charged at 2.35 volts per cell (14.1 V for a 12 V
battery), and is considered charged when the current stabilizes for one hour.
With the battery at 59 deg F (15C) or above:
Discharge the battery for 1 hour at 20 amps (this for the RG25XC). Min voltage
after testing is 9 volts. Discard if 9 volts is not available.
RG25 should be tested at 16.8 volts, and deliver 9 volts after testing.
"If the battery fails to deliver 80% of its rated ampere hour capacity it has
reached the end of its life...."
I'm not making this up! Isn't this a severe test?
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy drillining |
<< Mark,
Any problems with that Unibit causing cracking of the plexi? After the
horror stories Ive heard, I would be hesitant to use anything but a plexi
bit on my canopy.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (fuse) >>
Naw, no problems after probably a dozen canopy installations. You see, the
unibit doesn't try to pull itself into the hole like a regular drillbit, so
the chance of breakage is greatly reduced. That being said, nothing is
foolproof, because fools are so ingenious! Consider that most common accident
for a 172 is a groundloop! But I digress....We run the unibit at the slower
speed (400 rpm) of a Makita battery drill.
For you -6 and -8 slider builders: We ream the windsheild to roll bar holes
to 5/16" in the plexi, insert a short pc (1/8" or so) of small vacuum tubing
(fits around the #6 screws perfectly), and use a #8 SS tinnerman washer under
the head of the #6 screw. Do not tighten this screw fully- leave the thing
about 1/4 turn loose. Lay up your fiberglass per the instructions. The
windshield plexi is free to stretch and shrink as it pleases with this
fastener system- it isn't locked to the roll bar too tightly. You can adjust
the length of the tubing to "shim" the plexi out to match the edge of the
slider portion if needed- it smooshes out behind the plexi if cut longer.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | I THINK THEREFORE YOU ARE <PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.intel.com> |
Here is an idea I had when I ran into this problem. Go get a small (2 inch)
c-clamp. Take it apart and drill then countersink a hole in the top (non screw
inside) of the clamp. Put the clamp back together and you have a dimpler that
will work in the tightest places. Use a rivet as the male die. When you clamp
the rivet down it will dimple the hole. Cost is under 2 bucks and about 10
minutes of time. The dimples are not as good as a regular dimple die set but
once you rivet them, the rivet head will end up flush with the skin.
Just my $.02, but I saved more than that.
Pat Kirkpatrick
RV-6A skinning fuse
Rio Rancho NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Hey guys, how 'bout just bending the flanges apart enough to insert the
pop rivet dimpler? Form the dimple, then bend the flanges back into
position.
Worked for me!
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to the
second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to dimple
the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my pop rivet
dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole without success.
Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this point.
> >
>
> Mark,
>
> I haven't dimpled those yet, but I took a look at them and tried my
> vice-grip dimplers for a fit . It takes just a little work, but it looks
> like they will do the job if the rivet hole is in the center of the
> flange. They are just small vice-grips that have dimple dies welded to
> them. I got mine from Avery. I would imagine that the other tool
> vendors have them also. Possibly a builder near you has one they might
> loan you. Another way to do it is take a piece of flat steel plate that
> has a 3/32" hole drilled and countersunk(I wouldn't use my countersink
> bit for this! There may be a drill bit available with the right angle)
> for a rivet. The countersunk hole is near the edge of the plate. A
> rivet is put in the rib hole and the plate placed under the rib flange
> with the rivet going into the hole in the plate. Take you rivet gun and
> tap the rivet. The rivet will press the flange into the countersunk
> plate and form the dimple. It may sound like a lot of trouble to make,
> but it probably would be useful in other areas too.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> -6a Edmond Ok
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of Overvoltage... |
<< A linear reg w/crowbar would probably be a good investment IMO. >>
I have both??? The crow OV protection bar has not thrown the breaker though?
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
nt. Plugs (both mag and EI) show
little signs of lead on inspection.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | How to ruin your Concord battery with 2 extra volts |
Just got back from our second weekend seminar gig of 1998 in
Manassas, VA. Dee and I got home about 1:00 a.m. today
and I had 600 pieces of e-mail to sort through! This is
a thread formed of comments from several listers on the
same topic but possibly from or more than one list . . . .
Yep . . . two extra volts is indeed one way to kill 'em dead.
>I purchased a new Concord sealed battery (X25) for my RV6A and it
>died after one year of use. I think the reason was I had my voltage
>regulator set to high. Initially, I adjusted Vans voltage regulator
>to about 13.6 volts ( which may have been to high for that
>battery ? ), however, over the years time my charging voltage
>crept upward until it reached about 14.5 volts. I kept lazily
>putting off getting under the panel to readjust it. I noticed
>the battery getting weaker every time I went out to the airport,
>until it was at 8 volts this week.
>What should I set that the voltage charging rate to so I don't
>fry my new battery ?
13.2 was NOT too high; 14.5 was not terribly abusive for short flights
but probably too high for extended cross country travel (see below).
-----------------
>I installed a new sealed liquid battery recently. With my old battery my
>system would charge at 14.4 to 14.8 volts. I installed the new battery (the
>only change) and now I'm charging from 14.6 to 15.5 volts! Could it be the
>combination of a new battery and the cold Wx (it was 30 degrees Sunday).
Possibly but I doubt it. Depending on your regulator, it MIGHT be
temperature compensated for battery charging requirements. In any
case 14.4 to 14.8 was too high for about any choice of battery
technology.
--------------------------
>> My notes of wisdom collected from the List indicate that RG batteries
>> should be charged at 14.4 to 14.8 v. >>
>
>I don't know where you got your info, but RG batteries should be charged
at no
>more than 2.35V per cell (6 in your 12V battery = 14.1V). So says the RG
tech
>experts at Battery Man magazine.
A possible source of "elevated charge voltage requirements" for the
RG batteries may have started with B&C some years back. The literature
from B&C's manufacturer of RG batteries was recommending a higher
bus voltage for short cycle ops like 1-4 hours per week in an airplane.
If one wanted to use an RG battery in a continuous float mode (like
standby power in an uninterruptable power supply or emergency lighting)
the classic lead-acid 13.8 volts at room temperature numbers applied.
Early recommendations for Concord agreed. About two years after B&C
won their STC on the RG battery and several years after Concord came
out with their early entries into GA battery sizes (they were
building RG battereies for bigger airplanes for some time), Skip
Koss of Concord showed me data at OSH demonstrating that their RG
products would achieve 100% of recycle recharge in airplane service
with the classic 13.8V figure.
This is a recommendation from one manufacturer of sealed lead
acid batteries that may illustrate the source of confusion . . .
"Cycle Applications: Limit initial current to 0.20C (C is the nominal
A.H. capacity of the battery). Charge until battery voltage
(under charge) reaches 2.45 per cell at 68 degrees F (20 deg.C).
Hold at 2.45 volts per cell until current drops to approximately
0.01C ampere. Battery is fully charged under these conditions, and
change to float voltage."
Interpretation of this paragraph is as follows: Suppose you have
a 17 a.h. battery with unknown state of charge (you've not flown
in several weeks and you just used it to crank a fussy engine).
You can RAPIDLY stuff energy back into this battery by setting
the charge voltage at 14.7 volts (2.45 x 6 cells) and holding
it there until current going into the battery drops to .17
amps (17 a.h. x .01C) whereupon you REDUCE bus voltage to
the appropriate "float" value.
"Float of Stand-By Service: Hold battery across constant voltage
source of 2.25 to 2.30 volts per cell continuously. When held at
this voltage, the battery will seek its own current level and maintain
itself in a fully charged condition."
This paragraph says that if you want to maintain a battery on
a constant voltage bus for periods of time AFTER 100% recharge
has been achieved, then the bus voltage should be between
13.5 (2.25 x 6) and 13.8 (2.3 x 6) volts. Of course these values
are 68F/20C temperature values.
Sooooooo . . . if you do a lot of short flights, 14.7 is good,
long flights 13.8 is better. Obviously, the NEXT generation
voltage requlators should be getting "smart" to the extent that
they not only accomodate a battery for its temperature MODULATES
bus voltage appropriately to take care of both the short flight
and long flight scenario.
Since this product does not yet exist . . . may I recommend that
the 14.0-14.2 volts is a good compromise . . . in any case,
CONTINUOUS bus voltage operations above this value are not healty
for any battery . . . thing is, for wet ones, you can replace
lost water . . for sealed batteries, once cooked always cooked.
I didn't ask Skip about how much TIME it took to get a Concord
battery back to 100% at the "float" voltage level . . . obviously
it will be LONGER than a the "cycle" level but lacking means
for dynamic control of voltage during each recharge cycle, to
err on the side of minimum smoke is good policy . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RG battery charging/testing specs |
>Mr GV is correct- I have the owners manual/logbook for the RG25XC in front of
>me:
>
>To test for airworthiness (every 600 hrs or annually):
>Make sure the battery is charged at 2.35 volts per cell (14.1 V for a 12 V
>battery), and is considered charged when the current stabilizes for one hour.
>With the battery at 59 deg F (15C) or above:
>
>Discharge the battery for 1 hour at 20 amps (this for the RG25XC). Min
voltage
>after testing is 9 volts. Discard if 9 volts is not available.
Don't know about the 9 volts . . . airplane goodies are pretty well
off-line below 10.5 volts . . . but by the time the battery is down
to 10.5 it's FADING FAST . . ..
>RG25 should be tested at 16.8 volts, and deliver 9 volts after testing.
Don't know what the "16.8 volts" is about . . .
>"If the battery fails to deliver 80% of its rated ampere hour capacity it has
>reached the end of its life...."
>
>I'm not making this up! Isn't this a severe test?
The battery industry generally considers a battery to be end of life
at 80% of capacity. For airplanes, I try to get my builders to
architecture
essential busses to draw no more than 3 amps so that a 24 a.h. battery
can be expected to carry essential goodies for 4 hours when the battery
has degraded to 50% of capacity. -OR- when flight critical electrics
are on board and dual batteries are indicated, a pair of 17 a.h.
batteries are used. The main battery (carries essential bus) is replaced
EVERY year . . .i.e. never less than 12 a.h. of capacity and moved to
the auxiliary battery slot. Sooooo . . . no battery is more than two
years old, one battery is always less than one year old . . . VERY
reliable, rudundant sources.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy drillining |
>Mark,
> Any problems with that Unibit causing cracking of the plexi? After the
>horror stories Ive heard, I would be hesitant to use anything but a plexi
>bit on my canopy.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 (fuse)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
Mike,
I had excellent results by using a unibit on the plexiglass.
Take care.
Scott Gesele N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 information |
No RV-3 guys/gals out there?
Can anyone reference me to someone for the below question?
Rob Reece
>
>Hi All!
>
>This is my first attempt at sending out a message on this list, so. . . .?
>
>I'm purchasing an RV-3 project (serial # 45), and know that i need to put
>the revisions and the spar mods on the aircraft that is approximately
>80-90% complete. In realistic terms, how much work is it to have to drill
>out the wing skins and incorporate the mods supplied by Vans? How much
>work would it be to incorporate the wing fuel at the same time as the mods?
> If there is anyone who has done the mod, I'd love to talk to you direct
>(reece(at)rt66.com). Thanks for your time.
>
>Rob Reece
>_________________________________________
>
>Rob Reece
>Scorpius Range Coordinator / Liaison Engineer
>
>Microcosm/InfoTech
>c/o EMRTC
>New Mexico Tech Mail Station
>Socorro, NM 87801
>
>Phone: (505) 835-5716
>Fax: (505) 835-5714/5680
>Email: reece(at)rt66.com
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________
Rob Reece
Scorpius Range Coordinator / Liaison Engineer
Microcosm/InfoTech
c/o EMRTC
New Mexico Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
Phone: (505) 835-5716
Fax: (505) 835-5714/5680
Email: reece(at)rt66.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Steel vs. Aluminum Fittings |
> It is correct that steel is the preferred material for all critical
> fittings firewall forward. Per a conversation with our local
> designated inspector, he said a common mistake he saw were people
> using aluminum which just can't handle the vibrations and eventually
> will fail. Sure, there will be the exception but its not worth the
> chance and shouldn' t even be disputed. Don't skimp on the
> important stuff.
That prompted me to call my local A&P IA (also tech counselor and
flight advisor) who teaches at an A&P school. He recommended
aluminum except where steel is required by strength. Steel would be
a good idea, he said, where fittings go from firewall to the engine,
unless adel clamps can be used to isolate the hose vibration from
the fitting. Then aluminum would be fine, and would corrode less.
Good points, I thought.
Tim
----------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>
>> > I have a recent tail kit with everything "pilot drilled".
>> If I put the alignment >bushings in the outboard HS413's and
>>stretch the string across, everything lines up well >except the inboard
>>brackets of the HS413s.
>
For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
rivets. That's what I'm going to do. It's not very dificult and it
relieves me of worrying about having the 413s stressed. So, my plane gets
heavier by 8 bolts, nuts and washers. There's a few lessons here.
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacksie31 <Jacksie31(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Steel vs. Aluminum Fittings |
You guys are talking about steel and alum, How about brass fittings in the
eng compt?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
These drawings are also available on Vans' website.
Walt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Steel vs. Aluminum Fittings |
>The question was raised as to the type of fittings we should use firewall
forward.
>
>It is correct that steel is the preferred material for all critical
fittings firewall forward. Per a conversation with our local designated
inspector, he said a common mistake he saw were people using aluminum which
just can't handle the vibrations and eventually will fail. Sure, there
will be the exception but its not worth the chance and shouldn' t even be
disputed. Don't skimp on the important stuff.
>Gary RV-6 20038 finishing
Take a tip from Lycoming and go with steel. Several years ago we had an AD
on *ALL* Lycoming's with external oil lines to C/S props. Had to replace
the fittings with steel, and secure the (new) oil line with adel clamps at
precise bolt holes on the sump to eliminate failures caused by vibration.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BStobbe <coro_01(at)weblabs.com> |
| Subject: | rv6 tip-up canopy frame probs |
Listers,
I'm desperately trying to get the canopy frame in place and aligned per the
plans, but alas, thus far to no avail. These are the problems I am facing:
1. In order to get the top of the channel on WD616 to align with a line
projected from the firewall to F668 I need a 3/8 space at the front and a
3/4 inch space at the back. Even so, the top of the aluminum tubing is
still 1/2 inch below the firewall-to-F668 projected line (not a good
situation) - in order to get the aluminum tube in proper alignment I would
need almost a 1 inch space at the back.
2. If I then attempt to mate the side channels (WD625) which are to be
spaced 1/8 inch above the longerons to the WD616 I have a problem in that
the lower flanges are not even close to being aligned (a 5/8 inch gap
exists since the aft end of WD616 is so high and the WD625 is only 1/8 inch
off the longerons) and therefore, cannot be riveted together as called for
in the plans.
3. If I line up the bottom flanges of WD616 and WD625 so that they can be
joined properly, the side channel/longeron gap increases from 1/8 inch at
the back to 3/4 inch where it meets the WD616. I don't know if this will
cause problems down the line and don't really want to find out the hard
way. Any comments?
I am continuing to study this in an attempt to figure out what I need to do
to wrestle this thing into submission. In the mean time, if anyone out
there has experienced this or can offer some assistance or even some advice
as to which dimensions are the most important and must be maintained, I
would certainly appreciate it! At this point it looks like I will need to
rework my instrument panel too because of interferences with the WD616... :>(
Bruce Stobbe
RV6
looking for high speed goggles at this point
(the slider HAS to be easier than this!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 information |
<< Can anyone reference me to someone for the below question? >>
Contact Van's aircraft. Really, without knowing your level of experience and
prior projects it is impossible for us to determine what you can and can not
do. For someone who hasn't had any experience, the mods you want to perform
are HUGH. For someone who has built an aircraft the mods are hugh.
Converting the aircraft from a header tank only to wet wings will require
drilling off 1/3 of the leading edge and making a new "D" cell sections. The
rear spar mod, as far as I know, has not been approved by Van's yet so we
can't really tell you what is involved but make no mistake, it will be a major
modification (and important as many RV-3's have been lost because of poorly
constructed rear spars).
The fine people at Van's can best answer your questions.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
Mike:
Being cheap and in a hurry, I made mine. Took about 30 minutes.
I think the screen is a good idea, and probably worth the money...
might keep a washer out of the fuel system.
George
#80006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | R410 rudder reinforcement bracket |
I fabricated the R410 with great care and there's no way it's gonna
fit!! The ears that will be riveted to the R404 rib flanges witn pop
rivets have gaps that cannot be corrected without shims being fabricated
that will go between the ear and the rib flange. So....I make a new
R410 and moved each bend line out about 3/32". This make the R410 wider
and the ears meet with the rib flanges perfect! Now, if I can figure
out how to rivet it to the R405PD, my 2" sqeezer doesn't look like it's
gonna do it :^(
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | Aircraft Soundproofing web site |
You're invited to visit our new web site at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
Lots of info about soundproofing aircraft including text of a "How To"
booklet. Also on how to use common materials in aircraft, home and
shop, as well as info on specially manufactured products only
available from us!
Send email to infobot(at)pdsig.n2.net for a directory of interesting stuff!
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Bill Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Aircraft Remanufacturing Corp
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1531 Avohill Dr
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760) 749 0239
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)pdsig.n2.net Web Site:
http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. I drew a centerline on my jig and on each end of the
spar, secured some thread to the jig centerline, lined up the spar, then
ran the thread thru all the brackets without using the alignment bushings.
I found that 3 out of the 4 HS413s were out of alignment. I wonder if we
can diddle with the holes and use 5/32 rivets instead of 3/16 bolts. I
have a couple of questions which I shall post to you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 tip-up canopy frame probs |
BStobbe wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm desperately trying to get the canopy frame in place and aligned per the
> plans, but alas, thus far to no avail. These are the problems I am facing:
>
> 1. In order to get the top of the channel on WD616 to align with a line
> projected from the firewall to F668 I need a 3/8 space at the front and a
> 3/4 inch space at the back. Even so, the top of the aluminum tubing is
> still 1/2 inch below the firewall-to-F668 projected line (not a good
> situation) - in order to get the aluminum tube in proper alignment I would
> need almost a 1 inch space at the back.
>Bruce:
I just finished that area and if I understand you correctly I think that
you may have mounted the sub
panel too high on the longerons. If you very carefuly go back over the dimensions
you will find that Van's
plans will bring the front weldament and the instrument panel into place. The only
change in the plans I have
consistantly run across is the need to lower the instrument panel by an additional
1/4". If the sub panel is
too high it will raise the skin line upwards at an angle that will get worse as
you progress toward the back
and what you are describing with the side channels not meeting properly sounds
just like this problem. The tip
up canopy really is fiddlely but is not nearly as labout intinsive as the slider.
I hope this helps. Chin up! - You made it through the fuel tanks so this ought
to be a cinch:-)
Doug Murray RV-6 canopy is getting trimmed to fit And looking great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Steel vs. Aluminum Fittings |
<< How about brass fittings in the
eng compt? >>
Why? They usually have an 45 flare incompatible with JIC fittings, are
heavier than steel or s/s, are about as strong as steel or s/s, they corrode
and, worse yet, will illicit snickers (not the candy bar) from your airplane
saavy friends. If your friends are plumbers, however, they may be impressed.
Aside from these small points, there's not a thing wrong with them. I used
s/s fittings (from Shulgins) on the engine and aluminum fittings (from ACS) on
the firewall. Van's used mostly aluminum on the original factory RV-8... I
looked.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
MR GEORGE T KILISHEK wrote:
>
>
> Mike:
>
> Being cheap and in a hurry, I made mine. Took about 30 minutes.
> I think the screen is a good idea, and probably worth the money...
> might keep a washer out of the fuel system.
>
> George
> Mike: I am not sure where you live but I would check on local
laws & with your inspector. I live in Canada and
after I had made a couple of very well built pickup tubes (if I might say so my
self), my AIR ABA inspector
informed me that I HAD to change to pickup tubes with screens on them. Van has
them in the options catalog for
a very reasonable price but I was a bit put out as I felt that the plans built
pickup tubes were very
adaquate. OH WELL -- RULE IS RULES :-))
Doug Murray RV-6
Sunny Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
planing
> for a trip this summer your way.
HI Shirley & Ed !
Thanks for your note ! I was about to work on my
baffle for the oil cooler tonight, but my wife volunteered me to wallpaper
my mother-in-law's bathroom instead...lucky me..
I don't know how familiar you are with the Lower Mainland area,
but you should have a good time if you head down this way. Langley is a
sleepy little field that has little traffic. 119.0 twr. I don't know how
they justify a tower here. Langley has 7 RVs on the field and 2 more
coming. You will have lots of friends here and no trouble getting a place
to stay with one of us. There are lots of neat places to fly to for fun or
lunch. Good thing you have your a/c flying because Transport Canada just
upped their fees to double and more. I was to pay $200 for airworthiness
and letters and now it is $360 as of Jan. 1 they say there is lots more to
come that we haven't dreamed of yet. I wish RAA and COPA would get on the
job and raise hell. I'll bet they wouldn't get away with this below the
49th. I really think they are trying to kill sport flying. We are in the
way. Although I was told they are looking at boaters, fishermen, hunters,
whatever to get total cost recovery. RAA does all the paper work and
Transport jacks the fees.
Anyway, apart from the gloom, we are in for a lot of
formation flying and photo shoots of each other when we get good enough to
stay out of each others' way. My a/c is white with candy apple red and
candy plum rudder and elevators. Did it myself..why not ? Just a basic a/c
because I don't have all the $$ to put in a fancy panel. I would like a GPS
and transponder some day. I intend to fly right across North America and
wherever I can afford to go. This is a dream I have worked toward for a
very long time. BTW, I am 63 and I think the average around here is about
55. I have a tail dragger and apart from all the BS related to that, I like
it a lot because that is what I learned on so long ago...........Write me
when you can, I would be glad to know you more and answer all I can that
would be of interest to you.....Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped quarters.
I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was exasperated. I returned
home tonight after a long day at work to discover 14 or so responses with
some really creative/great ideas. I responded to everyone individually (at
least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to the list how grateful I am for
the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 tip-up canopy frame probs |
BStobbe wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm desperately trying to get the canopy frame in place and aligned per
the
> plans, but alas, thus far to no avail. These are the problems I am
facing:
>
> 1. In order to get the top of the channel on WD616 to align with a line
> projected from the firewall to F668 I need a 3/8 space at the front and a
> 3/4 inch space at the back. Even so, the top of the aluminum tubing is
> still 1/2 inch below the firewall-to-F668 projected line (not a good
> situation) - in order to get the aluminum tube in proper alignment I
would
> need almost a 1 inch space at the back.
>Bruce:
I just finished that area and if I understand you correctly I think
that you may have mounted the sub
panel too high on the longerons. If you very carefuly go back over the
dimensions you will find that Van's
plans will bring the front weldament and the instrument panel into place.
The only change in the plans I have
consistantly run across is the need to lower the instrument panel by an
additional 1/4". If the sub panel is
too high it will raise the skin line upwards at an angle that will get
worse as you progress toward the back
and what you are describing with the side channels not meeting properly
sounds just like this problem. The tip
up canopy really is fiddlely but is not nearly as labout intinsive as the
slider.
I hope this helps. Chin up! - You made it through the fuel tanks so this
ought to be a cinch:-)
Doug Murray RV-6 canopy is getting trimmed to fit And looking great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. I drew a centerline on my jig and on each end of the
spar, secured some thread to the jig centerline, lined up the spar, then
ran the thread thru all the brackets without using the alignment bushings.
I found that 3 out of the 4 HS413s were out of alignment. I wonder if we
can diddle with the holes and use 5/32 rivets instead of 3/16 bolts. I
have a couple of questions which I shall post to you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. I drew a centerline on my jig and on each end of the
spar, secured some thread to the jig centerline, lined up the spar, then
ran the thread thru all the brackets without using the alignment bushings.
I found that 3 out of the 4 HS413s were out of alignment. I wonder if we
can diddle with the holes and use 5/32 rivets instead of 3/16 bolts. I
have a couple of questions which I shall post to you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
instrument panel into place.
The only change in the plans I have
consistantly run across is the need to lower the instrument panel by an
additional 1/4". If the sub panel is
too high it will raise the skin line upwards at an angle that will get
worse as you progress toward the back
and what you are describing with the side channels not meeting properly
sounds just like this problem. The tip
up canopy really is fiddlely but is not nearly as labout intinsive as the
slider.
I hope this helps. Chin up! - You made it through the fuel tanks so this
ought to be a cinch:-)
Doug Murray RV-6 canopy is getting trimmed to fit And looking great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. I drew a centerline on my jig and on each end of the
spar, secured some thread to the jig centerline, lined up the spar, then
ran the thread thru all the brackets without using the alignment bushings.
I found that 3 out of the 4 HS413s were out of alignment. I wonder if we
can diddle with the holes and use 5/32 rivets instead of 3/16 bolts. I
have a couple of questions which I shall post to you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 tip-up canopy frame probs |
BStobbe wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm desperately trying to get the canopy frame in place and aligned per
the
> plans, but alas, thus far to no avail. These are the problems I am
facing:
>
> 1. In order to get the top of the channel on WD616 to align with a line
> projected from the firewall to F668 I need a 3/8 space at the front and a
> 3/4 inch space at the back. Even so, the top of the aluminum tubing is
> still 1/2 inch below the firewall-to-F668 projected line (not a good
> situation) - in order to get the aluminum tube in proper alignment I
would
> need almost a 1 inch space at the back.
>Bruce:
I just finished that area and if I understand you correctly I think
that you may have mounted the sub
panel too high on the longerons. If you very carefuly go back over the
dimensions you will find that Van's
plans will bring the front weldament and the instrument panel into place.
The only change in the plans I have
consistantly run across is the need to lower the instrument panel by an
additional 1/4". If the sub panel is
too high it will raise the skin line upwards at an angle that will get
worse as you progress toward the back
and what you are describing with the side channels not meeting properly
sounds just like this problem. The tip
up canopy really is fiddlely but is not nearly as labout intinsive as the
slider.
I hope this helps. Chin up! - You made it through the fuel tanks so this
ought to be a cinch:-)
Doug Murray RV-6 canopy is getting trimmed to fit And looking great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
MR GEORGE T KILISHEK wrote:
>
>
> Mike:
>
> Being cheap and in a hurry, I made mine. Took about 30 minutes.
> I think the screen is a good idea, and probably worth the money...
> might keep a washer out of the fuel system.
>
> George
> Mike: I am not sure where you live but I would check on
local laws & with your inspector. I live in Canada and
after I had made a couple of very well built pickup tubes (if I might say
so my self), my AIR ABA inspector
informed me that I HAD to change to pickup tubes with screens on them. Van
has them in the options catalog for
a very reasonable price but I was a bit put out as I felt that the plans
built pickup tubes were very
adaquate. OH WELL -- RULE IS RULES :-))
Doug Murray RV-6
Sunny Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
MR GEORGE T KILISHEK wrote:
>
>
> Mike:
>
> Being cheap and in a hurry, I made mine. Took about 30 minutes.
> I think the screen is a good idea, and probably worth the money...
> might keep a washer out of the fuel system.
>
> George
> Mike: I am not sure where you live but I would check on
local laws & with your inspector. I live in Canada and
after I had made a couple of very well built pickup tubes (if I might say
so my self), my AIR ABA inspector
informed me that I HAD to change to pickup tubes with screens on them. Van
has them in the options catalog for
a very reasonable price but I was a bit put out as I felt that the plans
built pickup tubes were very
adaquate. OH WELL -- RULE IS RULES :-))
Doug Murray RV-6
Sunny Southern Alberta
I was to pay $200 for airworthiness
and letters and now it is $360 as of Jan. 1 they say there is lots more to
come that we haven't dreamed of yet. I wish RAA and COPA would get on the
job and raise hell. I'll bet they wouldn't get away with this below the
49th. I really think they are trying to kill sport flying. We are in the
way. Although I was told they are looking at boaters, fishermen, hunters,
whatever to get total cost recovery. RAA does all the paper work and
Transport jacks the fees.
Anyway, apart from the gloom, we are in for a lot of
formation flying and photo shoots of each other when we get good enough to
stay out of each others' way. My a/c is white with candy apple red and
candy plum rudder and elevators. Did it myself..why not ? Just a basic a/c
because I don't have all the $$ to put in a fancy panel. I would like a GPS
and transponder some day. I intend to fly right across North America and
wherever I can afford to go. This is a dream I have worked toward for a
very long time. BTW, I am 63 and I think the average around here is about
55. I have a tail dragger and apart from all the BS related to that, I like
it a lot because that is what I learned on so long ago...........Write me
when you can, I would be glad to know you more and answer all I can that
would be of interest to you.....Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. I drew a centerline on my jig and on each end of the
spar, secured some thread to the jig centerline, lined up the spar, then
ran the thread thru all the brackets without using the alignment bushings.
I found that 3 out of the 4 HS413s were out of alignment. I wonder if we
can diddle with the holes and use 5/32 rivets instead of 3/16 bolts. I
have a couple of questions which I shall post to you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. I drew a centerline on my jig and on each end of the
spar, secured some thread to the jig centerline, lined up the spar, then
ran the thread thru all the brackets without using the alignment bushings.
I found that 3 out of the 4 HS413s were out of alignment. I wonder if we
can diddle with the holes and use 5/32 rivets instead of 3/16 bolts. I
have a couple of questions which I shall post to you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 tip-up canopy frame probs |
BStobbe wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm desperately trying to get the canopy frame in place and aligned per
the
> plans, but alas, thus far to no avail. These are the problems I am
facing:
>
> 1. In order to get the top of the channel on WD616 to align with a line
> projected from the firewall to F668 I need a 3/8 space at the front and a
> 3/4 inch space at the back. Even so, the top of the aluminum tubing is
> still 1/2 inch below the firewall-to-F668 projected line (not a good
> situation) - in order to get the aluminum tube in proper alignment I
would
> need almost a 1 inch space at the back.
>Bruce:
I just finished that area and if I understand you correctly I think
that you may have mounted the sub
panel too high on the longerons. If you very carefuly go back over the
dimensions you will find that Van's
plans will bring the front weldament and the instrument panel into place.
The only change in the plans I have
consistantly run across is the need to lower the instrument panel by an
additional 1/4". If the sub panel is
too high it will raise the skin line upwards at an angle that will get
worse as you progress toward the back
and what you are describing with the side channels not meeting properly
sounds just like this problem. The tip
up canopy really is fiddlely but is not nearly as labout intinsive as the
slider.
I hope this helps. Chin up! - You made it through the fuel tanks so this
ought to be a cinch:-)
Doug Murray RV-6 canopy is getting trimmed to fit And looking great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
planing
> for a trip this summer your way.
HI Shirley & Ed !
Thanks for your note ! I was about to work on my
baffle for the oil cooler tonight, but my wife volunteered me to wallpaper
my mother-in-law's bathroom instead...lucky me..
I don't know how familiar you are with the Lower Mainland area,
but you should have a good time if you head down this way. Langley is a
sleepy little field that has little traffic. 119.0 twr. I don't know how
they justify a tower here. Langley has 7 RVs on the field and 2 more
coming. You will have lots of friends here and no trouble getting a place
to stay with one of us. There are lots of neat places to fly to for fun or
lunch. Good thing you have your a/c flying because Transport Canada just
upped their fees to double and more. I was to pay $200 for airworthiness
and letters and now it is $360 as of Jan. 1 they say there is lots more to
come that we haven't dreamed of yet. I wish RAA and COPA would get on the
job and raise hell. I'll bet they wouldn't get away with this below the
49th. I really think they are trying to kill sport flying. We are in the
way. Although I was told they are looking at boaters, fishermen, hunters,
whatever to get total cost recovery. RAA does all the paper work and
Transport jacks the fees.
Anyway, apart from the gloom, we are in for a lot of
formation flying and photo shoots of each other when we get good enough to
stay out of each others' way. My a/c is white with candy apple red and
candy plum rudder and elevators. Did it myself..why not ? Just a basic a/c
because I don't have all the $$ to put in a fancy panel. I would like a GPS
and transponder some day. I intend to fly right across North America and
wherever I can afford to go. This is a dream I have worked toward for a
very long time. BTW, I am 63 and I think the average around here is about
55. I have a tail dragger and apart from all the BS related to that, I like
it a lot because that is what I learned on so long ago...........Write me
when you can, I would be glad to know you more and answer all I can that
would be of interest to you.....Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. I drew a centerline on my jig and on each end of the
spar, secured some thread to the jig centerline, lined up the spar, then
ran the thread thru all the brackets without using the alignment bushings.
I found that 3 out of the 4 HS413s were out of alignment. I wonder if we
can diddle with the holes and use 5/32 rivets instead of 3/16 bolts. I
have a couple of questions which I shall post to you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
hem together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Push Rod |
The elevator push rod (part # 689) that goes from the stick to the rear of
the bagage compartment is supposed to be 47 1/2 inches long. At that
length, it will not fit into the "channel" in order to be installed.
I am assuming that the aluminum tube should not be bent. That means that
the opening in the bulkhead must be enlarged. Right??
Anyone else have this problem? Any other fixes??
Bob, San Antonio
RV-6 Carb Air Box
---
"The opinions expressed herein are solely the author's
and are not necessarily the opinions of USAA."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. I drew a centerline on my jig and on each end of the
spar, secured some thread to the jig centerline, lined up the spar, then
ran the thread thru all the brackets without using the alignment bushings.
I found that 3 out of the 4 HS413s were out of alignment. I wonder if we
can diddle with the holes and use 5/32 rivets instead of 3/16 bolts. I
have a couple of questions which I shall post to you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 tip-up canopy frame probs |
BStobbe wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm desperately trying to get the canopy frame in place and aligned per
the
> plans, but alas, thus far to no avail. These are the problems I am
facing:
>
> 1. In order to get the top of the channel on WD616 to align with a line
> projected from the firewall to F668 I need a 3/8 space at the front and a
> 3/4 inch space at the back. Even so, the top of the aluminum tubing is
> still 1/2 inch below the firewall-to-F668 projected line (not a good
> situation) - in order to get the aluminum tube in proper alignment I
would
> need almost a 1 inch space at the back.
>Bruce:
I just finished that area and if I understand you correctly I think
that you may have mounted the sub
panel too high on the longerons. If you very carefuly go back over the
dimensions you will find that Van's
plans will bring the front weldament and the instrument panel into place.
The only change in the plans I have
consistantly run across is the need to lower the instrument panel by an
additional 1/4". If the sub panel is
too high it will raise the skin line upwards at an angle that will get
worse as you progress toward the back
and what you are describing with the side channels not meeting properly
sounds just like this problem. The tip
up canopy really is fiddlely but is not nearly as labout intinsive as the
slider.
I hope this helps. Chin up! - You made it through the fuel tanks so this
ought to be a cinch:-)
Doug Murray RV-6 canopy is getting trimmed to fit And looking great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HS-413s (was the evils of pilot drilled kit) |
Am I missing something here? I am about to rivet the skins on my HS,
and I am puzzled over the concern. Van prepunches these spars with
very accurate equipment, and I am wondering just how egregious this
problem is. Was it in the spar holes or the HS-413? The whole idea
of prepunching is to reduce builder error, and I cannot believe that I
could do a measurably better job with these brackets by hand with a
ruler and a string!. For proof, I offer the HS-610/614s!. The rear
spar is fexible, more so in the horzontal plane than the vertical, but
nonetheless all the bracket hole centers will be aligned in the jig,
yes? That is how mine is. If the axis of the bracket is not
coincident with the spar by 3 degrees, why does that matter? Before
prepunching, all of this was done manually. When I install my rear
spar into the jig, I have to fiddle with it a little, but the jig
brackets align the HS-413 centers and the skin will "lock it" in,
correct? I doubt that this is a big problem, and if there is a gross
error here on Vans part, maybe he needs to look at his equipment.
Something tells me that this is not worth worrying about. If it fits
in the jig, don't start drilling out rivets. I'd agonize over the jig
fixtures, not the prepunched spar. I'm guessin, but I'll bet the
builder introduces alot more potential error there than Vans punching
machines.
Chris Browne
-6 emp
Atlanta
______________________________ Reply Separator ____________________________
_____
Subject: Re: RV-List: the evils of pilot drilled kit
Date: 3/17/98 11:27 AM
>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>rivets.
I'm interested. After reading your post I checked my rear spar, which I
just finished and was so proud of how well I did, being the first thing I
had ever riveted. ... I have a couple of questions which I shall post to
you off line.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Starting to agonize over the front spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Anyone else getting a hundred copies of the same email from this guy???
marshan(at)meritorauto.com
Moe Colontonio
RV-8 Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <dzflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Maurice Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 17, 1998 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dimple Help
>
>Anyone else getting a hundred copies of the same email from this guy???
>
>marshan(at)meritorauto.com
>
>Moe Colontonio
>RV-8 Rudder
>
YES... I had 60 this morning!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
Mark, I agree with what seems to be the general consensus about the
vice-grip dimpling. However, when I first ran into the problem, I did
not want to wait while tools were delivered (I wasn't going to risk my
current dies or vice-grips), so I tried the following: I took the scrap
from the rudder/elevator jigs and put one of the triangular pieced in
the rib I wanted to dimple. I drilled through the hole into the wood
and then removed the wood and countersunk the holes, makeing female
dies. I then replaced the wood and set the dimples into the
countersinks with a male die and rubber mallet. It doesn't take much to
dimple the thin aluminum. Two notes - you don't need to hit the male
die so hard that you crush the particle board and it is easier to fit
the scrap in the rib if you have not already dimpled the other holes.
The resulting dimples were not as crisp as the others, but you cant tell
it once you've set the rivets.
I also used the fold-over method for closing the ends of the trim tab
and got good results by rounding the edges of one of these pieces of
scrap and forming the aluminum over it (using palm pressure only). I
have not examined a tab built with riblets, so I can't compare, but I am
pretty happy with how my tab turned out. Good luck.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 information |
>
>Hi All!
>
>This is my first attempt at sending out a message on this list, so. . . .?
>
>I'm purchasing an RV-3 project (serial # 45), and know that i need to put
>the revisions and the spar mods on the aircraft that is approximately
>80-90% complete. In realistic terms, how much work is it to have to drill
>out the wing skins and incorporate the mods supplied by Vans? How much
>work would it be to incorporate the wing fuel at the same time as the mods?
> If there is anyone who has done the mod, I'd love to talk to you direct
Rob,
I haven't done the mod myself but I have talked to a guy who did it to a
finished RV3.
It is a big job and very difficult/awkward to do. If I were to buy an RV3
that's "80-90% complete", I would finish the airplane as is and fly it
limiting it to 4.4g per factory recommendation.
Van has stated that he intends to design a new one piece spar ( like the
RV8 ) for the RV3. He also implied it could be retrofit to existing
airplanes. When this spar becomes available, I would build a whole new
set of wings with the new spar and fuel
tanks. In the meantime, I would just fly the plane.
One other thing. One of the replies mentioned that RV3s had been lost due
to incorrectly built rear spars. I have seen no evidence to support this.
As far as I know, ALL RV3 wing failures were due to the main spar failing
when overstressed. I believe that Van originally "suspected" the rear
spar attach point because some of the early accident airplanes had rear
spars pull away. The theory was that the failure occurred at the rear spar
and overloaded the main spar. I believe that the current theory is the
opposite ( i.e. main spar failed, pulling rear spar away). Anyway, you
should definately have a conversation with Van and get everything straight.
He won't B.S. you.
Personally, I had hoped that the value of RV3s would suffer as a result of
the wing spar issue and that I might be able to "steal one". It doesn't
appear that they have lost any value as a result of this situation at all.
It's still one of my favorites and if I could justify a single seat
airplane, I would be building one.
Good luck
John (RV4 builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: R410 rudder reinforcement bracket |
I'd check and see how the fairing fits over the assembly. My rudder is
in storage, and I don't really recall well enough to visualize, but the
slight bending from 90 degrees required to remove those gaps might be
required to clear the fairing. Put another way, that 3/16" difference
might be due to the way the fairing curves inward at the bottom. Just a
thought.
PatK - RV-6A
jerry calvert wrote:
>
> I fabricated the R410 with great care and there's no way it's gonna
> fit!! The ears that will be riveted to the R404 rib flanges witn pop
> rivets have gaps that cannot be corrected without shims being fabricated
> that will go between the ear and the rib flange. So....I make a new
> R410 and moved each bend line out about 3/32". This make the R410 wider
> and the ears meet with the rib flanges perfect!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: R410 rudder reinforcement bracket |
>
>I fabricated the R410 with great care and there's no way it's gonna
>fit!! The ears that will be riveted to the R404 rib flanges witn pop
>rivets have gaps that cannot be corrected without shims being fabricated
>that will go between the ear and the rib flange. So....I make a new
>R410 and moved each bend line out about 3/32". This make the R410 wider
>and the ears meet with the rib flanges perfect! Now, if I can figure
>out how to rivet it to the R405PD, my 2" sqeezer doesn't look like it's
>gonna do it :^(
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>-6a
>Jerry,
Checking my notes I read that I had to make a special little bucking
bar to get in to buck those rivets.....one you will only use for that
particular job.
.....tail/fuse fairing.....
>
>
>
>
Marc DeGirolamo
-4 #3289
Saskatoon,SK.
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
quarters. I guess you could tell from the tone of my post that I was
exasperated. I returned home tonight after a long day at work to discover
14 or so responses with some really creative/great ideas. I responded to
everyone individually (at least I think I did), but I wanted to reafirm to
the list how grateful I am for the RV-List and everyone's participation.
Thanks!
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
>
>Hey guys, how 'bout just bending the flanges apart enough to insert the
>pop rivet dimpler? Form the dimple, then bend the flanges back into
>position.
>
>Worked for me!
>
>Sam Buchanan
>sbuc(at)traveller.com
>"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
This is exactly what I did, too. Worked well for me also.
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Finishing up empennage-
WINGS ON THE WAY!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod |
<< I am assuming that the aluminum tube should not be bent.>>
That would be a fair assumption!
<>
That too would be a fair assumption! You will find that the hole depicted in
the plans is too small and needs to be enlarged anyway to provide clearence.
The bell crank causes the rod to travel up and down . If I had to guess I
would say that my hole in the baggage bulkhead is 1"x 2".
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Forward Top Skin |
FYI, I came up with an innovative way to cut the curve on the f-675 forward
top skin (for the tip up model)
After brainstorming different ways to connect some reference points and
maintain an arc, I came up with the following:
After making the refence marks per the plans, drill a small hole just on
the "south" side of each mark, or the side that will yield the waste
material, and put in a sheet metal screw. Now, you have screws at each
mark that you can connect the lines with. I used a piece of steel wire
that is the same thickness as the pin inside of the hinges that you attach
your seats with. I bent the wire around the screws (along the outside)
with the exception of the first one by the bottom edge, it went on the
inside (the scrap side). This makes a perfect arc around the predetermined
points!
Hope this helps someone (If someone has not done it already!)
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)
Working on Top Skins....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
FROM: Department of Encouragement
RE: Ongoing Test Flights
My ears hurt. I just got back from yet another series of timed climbing
trials. I found that, to get accurate curves for the flight manual (you DO
have a flight manual, don't you) you have to go out and to a lot of climbs.
Oh darn. Except that this airplane is such a screamer for climbing, your
ears can get a little sore. From getting pushed out as you rocket up at
1400+ fpm, and sucked in as you come back down. Then you get home deaf.
And the guys hanging around at the fuel pumps are yelling at you to get you
to hear. NICE LOOKING AIRPLANE YOU HAVE HERE. DID YOU BUILD THIS?
This airplane likes to fly. The performance is like nothing you have ever
had the chance to fly before, believe me. I have been in airplanes that, on
takeoff, you are looking seriously at what is at the end of the runway to
see which trees you are going to fly between. (Well, there's a GOOD look at
the flag on that flag pole. And I see the stars are actually sewn on, not
printed. Always wondered about that.) No so the RV. Maybe I'm glad our
"sealevel" around here starts at 5280 feet. I can now only imagine the
climb rate below 5000 feet. Here: at 11,000 I was testing 160mph and was
still climbing at 400fpm. I won't tell you what I was doing at 100 mph.
OK, yes I will. But these are preliminary results, mind you. At 11,000:
870. Feet per minute. At 85% of gross weight. WOW. As I said before,
climbs like a scalded cat.
I tested 100mph up to 160mph today in 10 mph increments. Lots of data. Fun
stuff. And to combine my flight cards, I did glide speeds and G testing on
the way down. Up and down a lot. Quickly. Power off glide is one of the
most important pieces of information you will obtain as it lets you
determine your best glide speed if the noise stops.
In this neighborhood (Denver and north) there are a lot of airports in a
fairly dense area. Which means lots of airplanes, especially on a weekend.
Which means you have to look around...a LOT. In an RV, the are coming at
you at a pretty good clip. This is not a problem in an RV as the visibility
is nothing less than phenomenal. But you do have to LOOK. Keep your head
out of the cockpit. This is a fast, rather small airplane and is hard to
see, I think. You have to watch out for THEM. And, even though this
airplane is a screamer, you don't HAVE to fly it fast all the time. Like in
a high density area, for example. Because it is also very well behaved
going slowly. I have a "slow down" boundry where the Close Encounters seem
to occur more frequently. Also gets you slowed for the eventual Runway
Encounter. (Landings and takeoffs are improving, by the way.) Also says
something for wing-mounted landing lights: makes you more visible.
So: the flights are going well, albeit not frequent enough (will they ever
be?). We now are 38.5 hours out of the required 40 and, as I said before, 40
is not going to be enough. Which just means the time will be "flown off"
and I will be able to legally fly out of my test area but the test flying
will continue.
It is great fun getting to know this airplane. What a sweetie. It is fun
to see my landings (and takeoffs) becoming more precise, better controled.
I am better able to hear and feel what the airplane is telling me, and this
airplane TALKS, if you will listen. A good partnership is developing here.
You are going to LOVE your new airplane!
Michael (WHAT, SAY AGAIN???)
RV-4 N 232 Suzie Q
Formative Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft soundproofing/interiors |
We've added a discussion group to our web page. It's at
http://aircraft_r.321media.com/321/discussion/bbs?formmodname=SUPERSOUNDPRO
OFING
You're all invited to submit soundproofing Q&A's
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM (Mike Thompson) |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, you wrote:
>
>
>
>Thank you one and all for giving me your dimpling ideas for cramped
Make it stop! Make it stop!
:\
- Mike (RV-6 emp on order)
I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Moore" <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: marshan(at)meritorauto.com <marshan(at)meritorauto.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 17, 1998 12:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dimple Help
What gives with all of these repeat posts from marshan(at)meritorauto.com?
He has single handedly overloaded the internet today.
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
Mark:
If you need to send to someone off line, save their address & then send.
This rv-list will auto reply to the 700 on the list by repling to the
message.
Don Jordan~6A wings~Arlington,Tx
Kit due Monday!!!!!!!
donspawn(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WstcttPrss <WstcttPrss(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 ELT antenna placement |
In a message dated 3/14/98 7:07:32 PM, you wrote:
<>
Brian-
I recently saw a 6 with all of its antennas being imbedded in the fiberglass
main-gear fairings. The builder is not part of this list. He is located at
Whiteman, just a few hangers up from Walt Hastings.
Jeff Carpenter
Wstcttprss(at)aol.com
RV-6... a few trim tab holes away from hanging the wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W B Ward <WBWard(at)aol.com> |
<< >Anyone else getting a hundred copies of the same email from this guy???
>
>marshan(at)meritorauto.com
>
>Moe Colontonio
>RV-8 Rudder >>
I didn't count them, but after I read a few and recognized that most of them
were the same, I just started deleting them. Looks like some kid playing
games.
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WstcttPrss <WstcttPrss(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 3/15/98 10:40:55 PM, you wrote:
<>
Mark,
I bought a riveting block from Avery (part#4500-1, page 15 of the 1997
catalog), ground out the center, leaving two thin surfaces... one with the
female half of a dimple die and the other smooth for setting a rivet against.
To dimple, I put a rivet in the hole and give it a few quick strokes with my
#3 gun and flush head set into the female half of this tool. Then, I flip the
tool over to set the rivet. There are plenty of other control surfaces where
you'll run into this problem, so it is worth investing time and money in a
good solution.
Jeff Carpenter
RV-6
wstcttprss(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <dzflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
Matt...
So far today I have received over 140 replies to the RV List from the same
person.... marshan(at)meritorauto.com... they are all from 3 or 4 threads and
they are the same thing over.. and over... and over... and over...
Can this stop sometime real soon?
Thanks
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Who is: ""? Has The List been taken over by
aliens? Suddenly, all the posts are from there.
Yikes!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
Gary,
Thanks. Good idea. FWIW, Lycoming tech support agreed with your
5/8" breather idea.
Given the small amount of gunk your air/oil separator is picking up,
is it even worth having one? I could just dump the breather tube
overboard.
Tim
On 15 Mar 98 at 21:41, Vanremog wrote:
> From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 21:41:30 EST
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: More Engine Hookup Hardware
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> << The engine's breather fitting is a beaded 3/4" fitting (included
>
> with engine). I plan to use Aeroquip 303-12 (3/4" ID) to go from
> the breather fitting to the ACS #10570 Air/Oil Separator. I'll use
> stainless steel hose clamps at the engine and the seperator. The
> separator has 5/8" fittings, so I'm hoping the hose clamp will be
> able to tighten the hose enough to hold it firmly.>>
>
> Tim-
>
> Just replace the fitting on the engine with an AN840-10D Hose
> Nipple. Even the big Continentals (6 cylinder dual turboed) use
> 5/8" oil breather fittings so I wouldn't worry about inadequate
> capacity. Then you can go down to the local Ford dealer and get
> some of the blue Motorcraft 5/8" ID silicone rubber heater hose that
> they use on police cars (you may have to call around). Use this
> hose for the entire oil breather system down to a 5/8" dia aluminum
> tube just above the pipe. Slice a whistle notch in the hose just
> above the aluminum tube to deal with the icing issue.
>
> << The return line from the air/oil separator will go via
> Aeroquip 303-something (don't know the size of the separator port
> yet) to an AN807-6D hose fitting, which will attach to a short
> piece of 3/8" aluminum tubing leading to an AN 824-6D "T" fitting.
> The "T" fitting will go in the existing oil return line from one of
> the cylinder heads.>>
>
> IMO, don't bother. After the first 2 fl oz of water (neutral pH
> tested) gathered during the very first flight, there's not enough
> moisture retrieved to put in your eye. I run my condensate drain
> into a clear Matco brake fluid reservoir equipped with a curtis
> valve. I modified the ACS separator by fly cutting a large hole in
> the front of it and installing a cover (similar to the technique
> used on the fuselage rear access covers) and installed two large s/s
> "brillo" pads rolled into one another as media. I get virtually
> nothing out of the breather on a new O-360 engine. Of course I'm in
> a relatively dry area (SF Bay).
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV Flying)
> (just back from flight over GG Bridge and along the Pacific Coast
> from SFO down to WVI and back to LVK via Lick Observatory). What a
> cool plane!
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
I wish I had a better understanding of the RV3 wing spar overload problems. I
am not building an RV3, hower, I can't help but wonder exactly what the
differences are between the wing spars of an RV3, and the same on an RV4 or an
RV6.
There have failures with the other airplanes, but at least one was explained
away as missing bolts, and the problem was not a wing failure.
Anybody care to educate me?
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marshan(at)meritorauto.com |
>
>Okay, I need help dimpling the ribs of the rudder. I can get, barely, to
the second to last hole at the narrow end of the rib, but I can't manage to
dimple the last hole. I've tried shortening the length of the nail of my
pop rivet dimpler and bending the nail to try and get it through the hole
without success. Any suggestions, I'm ready to try almost anything at this
point.
>
>Mark
Try cutting the nail off so short that it is shorter than the two dimple
dies together and then use it to align the two dimple dies, then squeeze
them together with a set of vice grips or pliers
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rver(at)caljet.com
Phoenix, AZ
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | I THINK THEREFORE YOU ARE <PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.intel.com> |
Your welcome already. Matt!!!!! Save us!!!!! This thing is stuck in a in a in
a in a in a in a (thump) loop.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
On 15 Mar 98 at 20:05, Craig Hiers wrote:
> Tim
> Why are you not using firesleeve on the oil cooler lines?
Van's catalog, in the section where they are selling their hose,
says firesleeve is only needed for fuel lines. I'm not too worried
about the oil to/from the cooler getting too hot. There's no
significant heat source in the path to the oil cooler other than
radiant heat from the engine case, and the oil should already be at
that temperature (give or take a bit) when it exits the engine on
the way to the cooler.
Tim
----------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Wilcox <rwilcox(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>
>>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>>rivets.
There seems to be significant discoveries of misalignments. Can anyone
offer suggestions on how to properly align the brackets?
Ron Wilcox
4th in my office building a -6
N826LR (Reserved) getting ready to install brackets
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod |
Hi Robert,
I had the same delima, I solved it by enlarging a hole that was in the
F604A. This hole was already there in mine. It is located like as if it
was put there for this purpose. But its not large enough. I used a
unibit and made it just a little larger.
If it bothers you to enlarge the hole, call Vans and ask them.
Good Luck,
Cecil
writes:
>
>The elevator push rod (part # 689) that goes from the stick to the
>rear of
>the bagage compartment is supposed to be 47 1/2 inches long. At that
>length, it will not fit into the "channel" in order to be installed.
>
>I am assuming that the aluminum tube should not be bent. That means
>that
>the opening in the bulkhead must be enlarged. Right??
>
>Anyone else have this problem? Any other fixes??
>
>Bob, San Antonio
>RV-6 Carb Air Box
>
>---
> "The opinions expressed herein are solely the author's
> and are not necessarily the opinions of USAA."
>
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
Listers,
When drilling the C659 side skirt to the slider frame, it is important that
the holes are centered on the steel tube of the frame. Rather than
measuring from some offset point to locate where to drill, I simply drilled
a 3/8" or so hole in between where each rivet hole would be. Through these
holes, one can see where the 659 contacts the steel tube, and hence
accurately locate vertically the rivet holes. The outside skirt will cover
the holes, and my plane might climb about .0003 feet per minute faster due
to the lighter weight. Enjoy those fuel tanks, the canopy is still ahead.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <dzflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Messages... |
Matt...
My delete key thanks you.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Lindquist" <lindquid(at)cadvision.com> |
>>
>>Anyone else getting a hundred copies of the same email from this guy???
>>
>
>YES... I had 60 this morning!!
>
My!!! He must be REALLY grateful for the help!
By the way, any builders in Fairbanks or Anchorage (Alaska) of RV aircraft
that would welcome a visitor to see their aircraft? (Built or in the
process) I am taking a short course in Fairbanks to get my A&P rating from
May 5 to 26 this year. (Just finishing my Canadian AME training)
Thanks!
---
Daniel Lindquist
"No gain, no plane!"
--Famous quote by my wallet
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How much space behind RV-8 instrument panel? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>I am thinking about buying the Panel Planner software package. I
>understand that it has a template of the RV-8 instrument panel. How
>accurate is the template? I have seen all the previous listing
>raving about how good a package Panel Planner is, so I don't need any
>testimonials - I just need to know how well it works for the RV-8.
I know that a previous post mentioned that the RV-8 template didn't match
very well. He probably doesn't have the latest version of it (it's
probably available on the Panel Planner web site) because we provided
them a copy of the .DXF file that actually punches the panel parts, so it
matches the panel blank exactly.
>
>What about access behind the panel? From studying the preview plans,
>it looks like the only access as designed is by unscrewing the panel
>and pulling it aft - how well does that work in practice?.
The yellow RV-8 prototype and now the RV-8A prototype have molex and or
cannon plugs on all wires that go to the main panel.
All that is required to remove either panel is to disconnect a few
connectors, disconnect the pitot and static lines, remove two bolts for
the avionics stack bracing at the rear, and then unscrew and remove the
panel!
Has
>anyone designed any other way to access the back of the panel?
>
>TIA
>
>Take care,
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators &
>wings)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Ottawa, Canada
>
>
>
Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. Finally Sold!
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by cc.newcastle.edu.au
| From: | Carol Richards <crcar(at)cc.newcastle.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Vans College Oz Workshop Manual |
I recently made a general request for 'hints, slick tools and cheap tricks' to
be included in our workshop manual for our first Australian Van's College to
be held in June. Don McColl asked if it would be available for others. If fellow
listers will contribute ideas to make it a worthy publication I would be
pleased to do what it takes to get it all assembled and distributed. Again, I
welcome direct e-mails for lengthy or detailed communications with attachments.
Many thanks to those who have responded thus far.
Regards, Sam Richards (RV-6 Wings in Jigs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>
>>
>>>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
>>>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
>>>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
>>>rivets.
>
>There seems to be significant discoveries of misalignments. Can anyone
>offer suggestions on how to properly align the brackets?
>
>Ron Wilcox
Ron:
I think I should have assembled the brackets with the rod end
bearing bolted in place first to check how the holes lined up with those in
the spar. It might have been possible to align the assembly so as to
distribute the alignment errors over the 8 holes. As it is, I'll never know
for sure how much of the error was my placement versus Van's drilling. I
did clamp the brackets down and inspect the alignment with the spar holes
with a magnifier before drilling them out with a #30, so I'm inclined to
think that the majority of my .020 error was in the predrilled holes. If
that's true, there's nothing to do but what I did. If the error was mostly
my positioning of the brackets, then I might have been able to split the
difference and reduce the error to about .010 which I could probably have
lived with. Van should predrill the spar for only one for the hinge
brackets in each pair. Then there wouldn't be a problem.
I should also mention that even those hinges (hs412) that are well
aligned have the brackets a little too close together. You can get the rod
end bearing in there, but it's tight. My guess is that the holes in the
spar are accurately placed but the steel hing brackets aren't formed as
accurately.
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All,
I have a question reguarding my options on placement of my
battery on my RV-6 .Plans call for putting the battery inside the cockpit
up against the the firewall.
Personally, I would rather mount it to the firewall in the engine
compartment.I heard thru the grapevine that the RV-8 has a box in the
engine room and that it may work for the 6, Is this true? If not does
anybody have a sketch or Idea reguarding this .
Thanks,John RV-6 #23054 Fus out of jig in
So.Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Lervold <RLervold(at)CompuServe.com> |
| Subject: | Static location? |
Listers:
Does anyone have any experience on pitot-static system accuracy relative to
location of the static port? I've just purchased Warren Gretz's nicely made
pitot mount and tube with the static port located at the tube. Seemed clean
at the time... both tubes to one location. But then I was reading about
another kit plane where this was done and the readings were highly
erroneous.
Thoughts?
Randy Lervold
-8 #80500, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dropped posts |
I have had several posts not make it to the list. Anyone else having
problems? Of course, if this message doesn't make it, no one will know.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
John,
I have seen a couple of 6's with a smaller 17 AH battery mounted on the
engine side of the firewall. I liked the look of it and plan to at
least consider it when I get to that point. It does not look like a
difficult installation.
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, skinning fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hughes [SMTP:jhughes@net-quest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 1998 2:26 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Battery Box
<jhughes@net-quest.com>
Hi All,
I have a question reguarding my options on placement
of my
battery on my RV-6 .Plans call for putting the battery inside
the cockpit
up against the the firewall.
Personally, I would rather mount it to the firewall in the
engine
compartment.I heard thru the grapevine that the RV-8 has a box
in the
engine room and that it may work for the 6, Is this true? If not
does
anybody have a sketch or Idea reguarding this .
Thanks,John RV-6 #23054 Fus out
of jig in
So.Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
Ron, I did not have the pp empennage, but I can speculate on the
problems from my experience with the pp wing kit. Some parts of the
wing kit are computer punched individually. Since they are generally
accurate they assemble well and slight misalignments (inevitable even
with machine accuracy) can be corrected when drilling in assembly.
These parts are generally punched with undersized holes.
The other method is parts predrilled in assembly. I have only seen the
wing spars/bulkhead and firewall done in this fashion. These parts are
drilled in a jig that ensures alignment and are delivered assembled but
not rivetted. However, again, even machine drilled parts are not 100%
accurate and the parts will only remain in perfect alignment if they are
not swapped around. Most of these assemblies contain parts that are
near duplicates or that can even be installed backwards and/or upside
down (like the spreader bars in the wing spar). Care must be taken in
preparation to return these parts exactly where they were when they were
drilled.
Without knowing which method was used on the HS spar, I can still tell
you how to check and fix the alignment. Christopher Browne was correct
that the jig is important; hopefully I've answered him on why the
problem occurs. However, the Orndorff tapes are still valuable for
showing some alignment techniques. In this instance, use the alignment
guides available from Avery and a string running from outboard bracket
to outboard bracket. Position the other brackets until they are
aligned. If they were predrilled in assembly, swap them around until
you get alignment on them all (you may need to swap the outboard
brackets, too). Otherwise, get as close a match as you can and then
final drill in alignment. You can use the same technique to align the
jig brackets, which will hold the spar in place with no twist or bend
while completing and skinning the skeleton.
That this topic has become so hot points out one of the dangers of the
pre-punched kits. The builder is still responsible for checking and
maintaining the alignment of parts. Just because it was pre-drilled
does not mean that it will go together without the builder investing
some thought in the process. By the way, it happens to the rest of us,
too. I found myself drilling out rivets because I had mismatched parts;
I had focused on the immediate task and forgot to check what I was doing
before proceeding. However, with the pp kits we have to guard against
the attitude that it must be right because it was pre-punched. Ok, I'm
getting off my soapbox now. I hope I've helped you, Ron, and all the
others starting out.
PatK - RV-6A
Ron Wilcox wrote:
>
> There seems to be significant discoveries of misalignments. Can anyone
> offer suggestions on how to properly align the brackets?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
Disclaimer: I am not employed by Van's Aircraft, only indebted to them
for manufacturing a great kit and a large hole in my VISA account. (This
is my third kit plane, so I have some familiarity with kit building)
That said.....I am concerned about the message being transmitted to
potential or new builders by the subject line and messages of this
thread. I would like to offer the following reminder:
An RV kit IS NOT a "pop-together" airplane....you must BUILD it! I have
been amused/disturbed by folks finding .020" "errors" in their emp kits.
This has convinced me that I am indeed a very sloppy builder. I hereby
confess that I NEVER measured anything in the emp kit with a dial
caliper. I also am guilty of the odious transgression of running a 3/16"
drill bit through the hinge brackets to create a nice fit for the
bearing bolts.
Was there a .020" error in my kit? I don't know! Do I care? NO! Why?
Because I am "building" this aircraft, and any structure as complex as
an airframe (and assembled by amateur fabricators) is going to require
"fitting" due to individual accumulation of tolerances.
I suggest we stop wringing our hands about normal inconsistencies found
in any manufactured product and just get out in the shop and put the
thang together!
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
tom sargent wrote:
>
>
> >
> >>
> >>>For those who are interested, I talked to John at van's today. He advised
> >>>me to reposition the inboard hs413 brackets properly, drill out the holes
> >>>with a 3/16 drill, and use AN3-3A bolts on those brackets instead of
> >>>rivets.
> >
> >There seems to be significant discoveries of misalignments. Can anyone
> >offer suggestions on how to properly align the brackets?
> >
> >Ron Wilcox
>
> Ron:
> I think I should have assembled the brackets with the rod end
> bearing bolted in place first to check how the holes lined up with those in
> the spar. It might have been possible to align the assembly so as to
> distribute the alignment errors over the 8 holes. As it is, I'll never know
> for sure how much of the error was my placement versus Van's drilling. I
> did clamp the brackets down and inspect the alignment with the spar holes
> with a magnifier before drilling them out with a #30, so I'm inclined to
> think that the majority of my .020 error was in the predrilled holes. If
> that's true, there's nothing to do but what I did. If the error was mostly
> my positioning of the brackets, then I might have been able to split the
> difference and reduce the error to about .010 which I could probably have
> lived with. Van should predrill the spar for only one for the hinge
> brackets in each pair. Then there wouldn't be a problem.
>
> I should also mention that even those hinges (hs412) that are well
> aligned have the brackets a little too close together. You can get the rod
> end bearing in there, but it's tight. My guess is that the holes in the
> spar are accurately placed but the steel hing brackets aren't formed as
> accurately.
>
> ---
> Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Push Rod |
Gary,
Thanks for the note. What about your length? Did you have to shorten the
push rod that connects the stick to the bell crank or was it 47.5 as the
plans call for?
"Finishing"!! What a beautiful word.
Bob
----------
> On my RV-6 I put the unassembled push rod into the fuselage then
installed the end caps witht he rod ends. Once it was in there, there was
no taking it back out. This didsn't seem to be a problem.
>
> Gary RV-6 20038 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. John Cocker" <jcocker(at)istar.ca> |
| Subject: | Credit card # on the rv-list |
Thanks to all the list members who pointed out that I had sent my credit
card # to all 800 people on the list.
I changed the number as soon as my error was pointed out, but for the
record, no one tried to use it, which has re-affirmed my impression that
rv guys are honest.
Thanks again, John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>
>That this topic has become so hot points out one of the dangers of the
>pre-punched kits. The builder is still responsible for checking and
>maintaining the alignment of parts. Just because it was pre-drilled
>does not mean that it will go together without the builder investing
>some thought in the process.
Pat, I must take exception with this statement. If the factory drills the
brackets to the spar, then the alignment of parts is set by the factory.
If this alignment is incorrect, then the factory f***ed up! PERIOD!
While the RVs are wonderful airplanes, the factory is not perfect and we
should stop making excuses for them.
The amount of pre-fab in my wing kit (RV4) is stunning. I estimate at
LEAST 100 hours of work is done in the standard kit. However, I wish the
factory would stay away from pre-fab which locks the positions of parts
together. I.e., the pre-drilled skins. I'm screwed on the inner wing ribs
because the spar holes for the rib brackets do not match the pre-drilled
holes in the wing skins. This causes a huge amount of work to compensate
for this mistake. It would have been MUCH easier to just back drill the
wing skins in assembly with the ribs. In the case where parts are match
drilled at assembly (wing root/fuselage interface, spreader bars etc.),
this is simply THE MOST
accurate way to do it. Granted the parts are not interchangable but this
is no problem, particularly with all the parts individualy coded.
Similarly, the elevator hinge brackets can be aligned accurately and easily
using the string method and then drilling the brackets in place. The
pre-fab does not save much work and in fact makes matters much worse if not
done correctly. I think the factory should pick their spots and not try to
"help" us too much.
John (always happy to provide an opposing viewpoint<1/2g>)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
FROM: Department of Encouragement
RE: Ongoing Test Flights
My ears hurt. I just got back from yet another series of timed climb
trials. I found that, to get accurate curves for the flight manual (you DO
have a flight manual, don't you) you have to go out and to a lot of climbs.
Oh darn. Except that this airplane is such a screamer for climbing, your
ears can get a little sore. From getting pushed out as you rocket up at
1400+ fpm, and sucked in as you come back down. Then you get home deaf.
And the guys hanging around at the fuel pumps are yelling at you to get you
to hear. NICE LOOKING AIRPLANE YOU HAVE HERE. DID YOU BUILD THIS?
This airplane likes to fly. The performance is like nothing you have ever
had the chance to fly before, believe me. I have been in airplanes that, on
takeoff, you are looking seriously at what is at the end of the runway to
see which trees/buildings/poles you are going to fly between. (Well,
there's a GOOD look at the flag on that flag pole. And I see the stars are
actually sewn on, not printed. Always wondered about that.) No so the RV.
Maybe I'm glad our "sealevel" around here starts at 5280 feet. I can now
only imagine the climb rate below 5000 feet. Here: at 11,000 I was testing
160mph and was still climbing at 400fpm. I won't tell you what I was doing
at 100 mph. OK, yes I will. But these are preliminary results, mind you.
At 11,000: 870. Feet per minute. At 85% of gross weight. WOW. As I said
before, climbs like a scalded cat.
I tested 100mph up to 160mph today in 10 mph increments. Lots of data. Fun
stuff. And to combine my flight cards, I did glide speeds, stalls and G
testing on the way down. Up and down a lot. Quickly. Power off glide is
one of the most important pieces of information you will obtain as it lets
you determine your best glide speed if the noise stops.
In this neighborhood (Denver and north) there are a lot of airports in a
fairly dense area. Which means lots of airplanes, especially on a weekend.
Which means you have to look around...a LOT. In an RV, the are coming at
you at a pretty good clip. This is not a problem in an RV as the visibility
is nothing less than phenomenal. But you do have to LOOK. Keep your head
out of the cockpit. This is a fast, rather small airplane and is hard to
see, I think. You have to watch out for THEM. And, even though this
airplane is a screamer, you don't HAVE to fly it fast all the time. Like in
a high density area, for example. Because it is also very well behaved
going slowly. I have a "slow down" boundry where the Close Encounters seem
to occur more frequently. Also gets you slowed for the eventual Runway
Encounter. (Landings and takeoffs are improving, by the way.) Also says
something for wing-mounted landing lights: makes you more visible.
So: the flights are going well, albeit not frequent enough (will they ever
be?). We now are 38.5 hours out of the required 40 and, as I said before, 40
is not going to be enough. Which just means the time will be "flown off"
and I will be able to legally fly out of my test area but the test flying
will continue.
It is great fun getting to know this airplane. What a sweetie. It is fun
to see my landings (and takeoffs) becoming more precise, better controled.
I am better able to hear and feel what the airplane is telling me, and this
airplane TALKS, if you will listen. A good partnership is developing here.
You are going to LOVE your new airplane!
Michael (WHAT, SAY AGAIN???)
RV-4 N 232 Suzie Q
Formative Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Orndorff Tape Rudder, Elevator Mounting |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD528B.6E082040"
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------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD528B.6E082040
I am searching for the Orndorff tape where he illustrates mounting the =
elevators and especially the manual trim connection. I also am looking =
for the vertical stab mounting sequence. It seems to not be in the same =
order as either Justice or Van's instructions. I have searched the =
Fuselage series, all the way through Finishing Kit 1 and still haven't =
found it!
Dennis Persyk 6A tail mounting
Barrington, IL
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD528B.6E082040
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
I am searching for the Orndorff tape where he =
illustrates mounting the elevators and especially the manual trim =
connection. I=20
also am looking for the vertical stab mounting sequence. It seems =
to not=20
be in the same order as either Justice or Van's instructions. I =
have=20
searched the Fuselage series, all the way through Finishing Kit 1 and =
still=20
haven't found it!
Dennis Persyk 6A tail mounting
Barrington, IL
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD528B.6E082040--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
John,
Surprised to hear about your problem. I assume you are refering to the spar
holes to which you attach angle which is in turn riveted to the rib webs? On
my wing I had one of these, which when drilled as required by the prepunched
skins, resulted in insufficient edge margin. The fix was to insert a shim
between the angle and the rib web which pushed the angle over enough to
work. Of course if the holes are way off or if they are off in the opposite
direction (so the holes through the angle are too close to the web of the
rib, you have a bigger problem.
Not to make excuses for Van's, but I think your problem is probably with
the location of the holes in the spars and not the skins. I believe all this
drilling is done by Phlogiston and not Van's (I'm sure I'll be corrected if
wrong here).
So how are you fixing this, and is Van's helping you out with this since it
appears to be a problem from the factory?
Mike Wills
RV-4 (fuse)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Pat, I must take exception with this statement. If the factory drills the
>brackets to the spar, then the alignment of parts is set by the factory.
>If this alignment is incorrect, then the factory f***ed up! PERIOD!
>While the RVs are wonderful airplanes, the factory is not perfect and we
>should stop making excuses for them.
>
>The amount of pre-fab in my wing kit (RV4) is stunning. I estimate at
>LEAST 100 hours of work is done in the standard kit. However, I wish the
>factory would stay away from pre-fab which locks the positions of parts
>together. I.e., the pre-drilled skins. I'm screwed on the inner wing ribs
>because the spar holes for the rib brackets do not match the pre-drilled
>holes in the wing skins.
>
>John (always happy to provide an opposing viewpoint<1/2g>)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | PRE PUNCHED KITS |
I'm sorry but I can't hold back any longer. After reading the first few
chunks of mail about the pp kits and their lack of fit, I said I would keep my
mouth shut. But I can't ///O agree with Sam Buchanan some of you guys seem to
be obsessive about this. I am a commercial pilot and an A&P, I work on them
and fly them. If some of you guys saw the inside of a Cessna, Piper, Beech
etc. you would faint, especially you guys talking about .020 errors!!! I
recently finished putting a 172 back together from the door posts foreward.
If some of you could have seen Cessna's pre punched alignment holes you
probably would have shot yourselves. Look inside a Kingair wing, Merlin's,
etc. they are allowed to bend some rivits over. I am currently "helping" a
friend build his Glasstar.....Another friend just got through with a Lancair
4p, and ALL I'VE GOT TO SAY IS 'VAN IS GREAT, VAN IS GOOD, GOD BLESS HIM. You
guys don't know when you've got it good. Just like I tell my wife (when she
can't hear me), "quit your bitchin'". There I've said it, now I'll be quiet!
Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BERTRV6 <BERTRV6(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Messages... |
3/18/98
Who is this guy is Dralle, is he really a living member:?
I have repeatedly sent e-Mails to the address, as mentioned in the list, but
never
reply.
Maybe this person or persons are to be remove from the list
Unless he is such a big shot he cannot answer mail
Maybe some one can answer
thank you
bertrv6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Manual trim cable/tab attachment |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01BD52A1.E3573F00"
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------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BD52A1.E3573F00
My questions deal with upgrades to the trim tab hardware made since =
1994, when I began my empennage (I=92m kinda slow). If anyone has =
experience with both old (1994) trim tab hardware and the more recent =
versions I=92d like to hear from you.
1) I understand that recent kits have the Wd-415 steel angle that =
captivates the manual trim cable mounted to a removable access plate. I =
am told this is called out on dwg 5pp (I have 5a rev 7). Is this easily =
retrofitable to a finished elevator? This is mainly a maintenance issue.
2) I believe that the trim tab horn is now affixed differently than it =
was in the circa 94 plans. This was done in response to problems with =
the old horn design developing cracks. I wonder if this too is =
retrofitable. This seems to be a safety-related issue as if the horn =
becomes loose on the tab (or departs the tab) the flutter =
characteristics may be modified.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Barrington, IL
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BD52A1.E3573F00
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
My questions deal with upgrades to the trim tab hardware made since =
1994,=20
when I began my empennage (I’m kinda slow). If anyone has =
experience with=20
both old (1994) trim tab hardware and the more recent versions I’d =
like to=20
hear from you.
1) I understand that recent kits have the Wd-415 steel angle that =
captivates=20
the manual trim cable mounted to a removable access plate. I am told =
this is=20
called out on dwg 5pp (I have 5a rev 7). Is this easily retrofitable to =
a=20
finished elevator? This is mainly a maintenance issue.
2) I believe that the trim tab horn is now affixed differently =
than it=20
was in the circa 94 plans. This was done in response to problems with =
the old=20
horn design developing cracks. I wonder if this too is retrofitable. =
This seems=20
to be a safety-related issue as if the horn becomes loose on the tab (or =
departs=20
the tab) the flutter characteristics may be modified.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Barrington, IL
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BD52A1.E3573F00--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PRE PUNCHED KITS |
I think every new builder is going to be super-anal. I was like that in
starting my HS, to the point where I rebuilt my HS front spar because of
one slightly oblong rivet hole. I took some time to look inside the
local club's planes, and was very surprised at what I found. Whole rows
of underdriven rivets in the trailing edge of the wing on the Arrow I
fly regularly. Bent over rivets and extra holes in the wing of a
Bonanza. I realized that perfection isn't attainable, but it is
something to strive for. If you screw up, move on. If you don't know
what to do right then, go around it, as you gain experience you'll
figure it out. My HS and VS are hanging on the wall, and I never checked
either for straightness or bracket alignment. I'd rather not know until
I mount them, because by then I will have a better idea of how to fix it
anyway. Don't sweat your brackets until it's time to mount them. You
won't know if you really have a problem until you put the elevators on
anyway. Don't worry about any negative comments you may get here either.
What you are experiencing is natural for a new builder, and I'm sure
every person on this list has experienced it at one time or another. You
won't know if your mountain is a mole hill until you ask.
Moe Colontonio
RV-8 Rudder
QB order goes out Friday!
Rwbrv4 wrote:
>
>
> I'm sorry but I can't hold back any longer. After reading the first few
> chunks of mail about the pp kits and their lack of fit, I said I would keep my
> mouth shut. But I can't ///O agree with Sam Buchanan some of you guys seem to
> be obsessive about this. I am a commercial pilot and an A&P, I work on them
> and fly them. If some of you guys saw the inside of a Cessna, Piper, Beech
> etc. you would faint, especially you guys talking about .020 errors!!! I
> recently finished putting a 172 back together from the door posts foreward.
> If some of you could have seen Cessna's pre punched alignment holes you
> probably would have shot yourselves. Look inside a Kingair wing, Merlin's,
> etc. they are allowed to bend some rivits over. I am currently "helping" a
> friend build his Glasstar.....Another friend just got through with a Lancair
> 4p, and ALL I'VE GOT TO SAY IS 'VAN IS GREAT, VAN IS GOOD, GOD BLESS HIM. You
> guys don't know when you've got it good. Just like I tell my wife (when she
> can't hear me), "quit your bitchin'". There I've said it, now I'll be quiet!
>
> Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Messages... |
BERTRV6 wrote:
>
>
> 3/18/98
>
> Who is this guy is Dralle, is he really a living member:?
> I have repeatedly sent e-Mails to the address, as mentioned in the list, but
> never
> reply.
> Maybe this person or persons are to be remove from the list
> Unless he is such a big shot he cannot answer mail
>
> Maybe some one can answer
> thank you
>
> bertrv6(at)aol.com
>
Yes Bertrv6, Matt Dralle is a real person I have met him and even taken him for
a ride in my RV-6
serveal times. He is doing this list out of the goodness of his heart and his love
of the RV's but
like the rest of us he is a very busy person between his work and and building
his RV-4 and keeping
this list and the Zenith list running and building some very fine products for
aircraft. I have
never had a problem with him answering email if I sent him some. He does get some
donations for his
efforts on the list but mostly he covers it out of his own pocket, I certainly
don't call this being
a big shot.
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
Hi all,
Someone wrote:
>> If I put the alignment bushings in the outboard HS413's and stretch
the string across, everything lines up well except the inboard brackets of
the HS413s. They're off by about 0.022.
<<
Wow! Even less than 1/32nd of an inch. Hit it with your hammer! :-)
Autos and other machinery have slots in many such places so that slight error
can be adjusted for.
Maybe I am beating a dead horse but one thing I don't understand is the lack of
manufacturing tolerances for the construction of the RV kits. Often
manufacturing drawings will specify some "default" tolerance if none is shown on
the plans. In critical places I see tolerances on Van's drawings but in many
places we builders are required to be engineers.
Conscientious builders suffer when tolerance info is missing. For schlock
builders, the airplane suffers!
Aristotle said something like, "Moderation in all things is good".
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Bert,
Boy, are you gonna get hammered! :-)
Matt owns the hardware etc and is the genius that makes the list possible! He
is right up there with Van hisself!
Apology probably not needed if you send him ten bucks as the rest of us have.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | 0-360 vs. I0-360 Questions |
I am getting ready to start my RV-8 fuselage kit , and am giving some thought
to what engine to use. My question is, I have heard that the IO-360 200 hp is
extremely expensive to overhaul and maintain when compared to the carb
version, but I notice that in Trade-a-plane, the various parts seem to be
comparative in price. I know the TBO is lower and fuel injection is involved,
but other than these, what additional costs are involved over the carb
version? Is there more of the IO's on the market? Are they easier to locate?
Seems everybody and his uncle is after the 0-360's, drying that market up.
Those of you that have these engines; how about your experiences for the
benefit of all on the list? Is any particular dash number more desireable or
more reliable than others? I notice that what few RV-s I have seen takeoff
with these engines and a CS prop, really have impressive performance,
noticeably more than the 180's. Observations? I need to decide pretty soon
because I want to purchase an engine this summer, hoping to fly by late fall
(yeah,sure).
Thanks
Von Alexander
RV-4 N107RV
RV-8 #544
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gasobek(at)JUNO.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Static location? |
Randy:
I am using a Piper "blade type" pitot / static tube on my RV-6. It is
very accurate in altitude and airspeed. Verified by test, GPS and other
aircraft.
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
>
>Listers:
>
>Does anyone have any experience on pitot-static system accuracy
relative to
>location of the static port?
---------- snip ----------
>Randy Lervold
>-8 #80500, wings
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <airshows1(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 landing lights |
Just got Van's landing light kit to install on RV-6 I just bought. Very
disappointed...real cheezo auto parts store stuff. Local builders tell me
there is an after-market supplier of landing light kits which are much
better. Anyone know the seller's address and phone number? Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Messages... |
>Who is this guy is Dralle, is he really a living member:?
>I have repeatedly sent e-Mails to the address, as mentioned in the list, but
>never
>reply.
>Maybe this person or persons are to be remove from the list
>Unless he is such a big shot he cannot answer mail
>
>Maybe some one can answer
>thank you
Oh, dear, are you in for some mail.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McCall <mccall(at)cayman.ds.boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
On Wed, 18 Mar 1998, Hal Kempthorne wrote:
> Aristotle said something like, "Moderation in all things is good".
Didn't he actually say --
"Moderation in all things... including this one." ?
Coulda sworn I read that in school :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty Emrath" <emrath(at)msn.com> |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01BD52B5.D9793740"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BD52B5.D9793740
Recently, there was more on the list about the Sherwin Willams G988 and =
I noticed the list had nothing about the following:
While doing my research at Sherwin Willams Automotive Finishes, I =
learned that the G988 self etching spray can that others have noted as a =
competitor to Marhyde comes in two part gallon cans under the numbers =
E2-G980 (olive drab) or E2-G983 (chromate Free). These are the =
equivalent to the G988, are self etching filler primers. The spec sheet =
calls out the reducer activator as R7-K981 Fast or R7-K982 Slow when =
mixed 1 to 1 or reduce 2 E2-G980 or 983 to 1 part R7-k985. The =
combination of G980 with K981 has a usable pot life of 7 days, but the =
others for only 1 day, ALL PER THE SPEC SHEET. This is supposed to be a =
sandable finish. Just thought Inquiring Minds Should Know, I have not =
used this paint, but thought others might like to know. The Industrial =
Wash primer P60G 2 with R7 K 44 is sold by my local SW Chemical Coatings =
Div, and the guys at the Automotive Div. could not tell me anything =
about it. The filler primer is about twice as much money as the wash =
primer and goes on thicker so probably weighs more upon completion.=20
Now for my question, does anyone know about a two part water based =
primer that is sold by DEFT? I visited a local EAA member's project =
last night and he was using this on a GlasStar wing. Said it was very =
tough, resists MEK and such but a bit expensive, about $100 for a one =
gal. kit. Purchased in Florida.
Boy, here we go again with the primer thread but a water based paint =
surely must be better health wise for us.
Marty, RV6 VS in Jig - just getting started.
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BD52B5.D9793740
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
Recently, there was more on the list =
about the=20
Sherwin Willams G988 and I noticed the list had nothing about the=20
following:
While doing my research at Sherwin =
Willams=20
Automotive Finishes, I learned that the G988 self etching spray can that =
others=20
have noted as a competitor to Marhyde comes in two part gallon cans =
under the=20
numbers E2-G980 (olive drab) or E2-G983 (chromate Free). These are =
the=20
equivalent to the G988, are self etching filler primers. The spec =
sheet=20
calls out the reducer activator as R7-K981 Fast or R7-K982 Slow when =
mixed 1 to=20
1 or reduce 2 E2-G980 or 983 to 1 part R7-k985. The combination of =
G980=20
with K981 has a usable pot life of 7 days, but the others for only 1 =
day, ALL=20
PER THE SPEC SHEET. This is supposed to be a sandable =
finish. Just=20
thought Inquiring Minds Should Know, I have not used this paint, but =
thought=20
others might like to know. The Industrial Wash primer P60G 2 with =
R7 K 44=20
is sold by my local SW Chemical Coatings Div, and the guys at the =
Automotive=20
Div. could not tell me anything about it. The filler primer is =
about twice=20
as much money as the wash primer and goes on thicker so probably weighs =
more=20
upon completion.
Now for my question, does anyone =
know about a=20
two part water based primer that is sold by DEFT? I=20
visited a local EAA member's project last night and he was using =
this on=20
a GlasStar wing. Said it was very tough, resists MEK and such but =
a bit=20
expensive, about $100 for a one gal. kit. Purchased in=20
Florida.
Boy, here we go again with the =
primer=20
thread but a water based paint surely must be better health wise for=20
us.
Marty, RV6 VS in Jig - just getting =
started.
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BD52B5.D9793740--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Messages... |
> 3/18/98
>
> Who is this guy is Dralle, is he really a living member:?
> Maybe this person or persons are to be remove from the list
> Unless he is such a big shot he cannot answer mail
>
> Maybe some one can answer
> thank you
>
> bertrv6(at)aol.com
If you're talking about Matt Dralle, then I must say the guy IS a big
shot ;)
Matt is the great guy who created and administers this great list and
gives a lot of time, effort, and $$ to making our hobby/sport much more
fun and user friendly. Good luck removing him from the list -He IS the
list. I know you've gotta be laughing, Matt.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | deluxe line drawing |
Hi,
Since I have been receiving an overwhelming request for the line drawing
up the RV-6 Tipup, I have posted it and a new "deluxe"version to my web
page.
http://www.megsinet.net/glenng/line_plane.jpg
http://www.megsinet.net/glenng/rv6tu.jpg
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Messages... |
>--------------
>
>3/18/98
>
>Who is this guy is Dralle, is he really a living member:?
>I have repeatedly sent e-Mails to the address, as mentioned in the list, but
>never
>reply.
>Maybe this person or persons are to be remove from the list
>Unless he is such a big shot he cannot answer mail
>
>Maybe some one can answer
>thank you
>
>bertrv6(at)aol.com
>--------------
Bert,
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "repeatedly sent e-Mails". Did you
send these emails to me directly at "dralle(at)matronics.com" or to the
automated list manager at either "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" or
"majordomo(at)matronics.com"? If you sent your messages to either of the
last two addresses, I generally would never see this mail since it is
handled by automatic processes. If you sent mail to me directly, I
apologize if I some how deleted your messages. If you sent them during
the Black Tuesday email flood, it is quite possible that I missed it in
the mass of mail. I've checked the current RV-List and your address is
not listed so it would appear that you were able to get your request
through at some point.
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 landing lights |
William G. Knight wrote:
>
>
> Just got Van's landing light kit to install on RV-6 I just bought. Very
> disappointed...real cheezo auto parts store stuff. Local builders tell me
> there is an after-market supplier of landing light kits which are much
> better. Anyone know the seller's address and phone number? Thanks!
>
William
The "real cheezo auto parts store stuff" will last many time longer
than the the high priced aviation lamps. I have a couple 100 watt
halogen auto parts store lamps and they light up the runway like a
highway at night. in over 800 hrs I have not yet had to replace a
landing light. If you bought the kit from Van's I assume
it is the Duckworks kit manufactured by Don Wentz and they work
very well.
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: 0-320 Lycoming] |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------14AB8BA4A79E74B3928C5F10
Found this in rec.aviation.homebuilt if anyone is interested.
Subject:
0-320 Lycoming
Date:
18 Mar 1998 23:31:09 GMT
From:
"dersonan"
Organization:
InfiNet
Newsgroups:
rec.aviation.homebuilt
For Sale
0-320-150hp (Conical Mount)
232 since NEW, Starter, Generator, Carb, Harness, oil
cooler, Mags & Crate included. $9,900 614-344-3596
......................................................................
http://www.infinet.com/~dersonan/flythekoop.html
Keep'em Fly'n!
Chris Anderson
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
--------------14AB8BA4A79E74B3928C5F10
From: "dersonan" <dersonan(at)infinet.com>
Subject: 0-320 Lycoming
Date: 18 Mar 1998 23:31:09 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: nwk-tc2-a152.infinet.com
Xref: ix.netcom.com rec.aviation.homebuilt:79252
For Sale
0-320-150hp (Conical Mount)
232 since NEW, Starter, Generator, Carb, Harness, oil
cooler, Mags & Crate included. $9,900 614-344-3596
......................................................................
http://www.infinet.com/~dersonan/flythekoop.html
Keep'em Fly'n!
Chris Anderson
--------------14AB8BA4A79E74B3928C5F10--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit/HS413 brackets |
Gentlemen;
Some of you think we may be bitching about nothing, but the fact is I
cannot get the bolts though both pairs of the HS413 brackets on my RV-8 HS
rear spar. One is off by about 1/16". The inboard ones seem to be the
ones out of alignment. Now, if I can't even get the bolts in the brackets,
how do you suppose I am going to mount it the the jig brackets? I couple
of us do have problems, and we are not imagining it. Yes, we should have
measured before assembly, but we didn't. This is the first part we have
built, and I guess we ASSumed that it would be punched correctly. Well, at
least we learned our lesson early. I have ordered new un-punched brackets
(which are available and in stock) and will drill my own holes. Don't be
too hasty to criticize until you have stood in our shoes.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 #591
Issaquah, WA
Reworking, and proceeding carefully
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com (MARK W. GILBERT) |
| Subject: | Re: Dropped posts |
Kelli, I have not had the problem of dropped posts. In fact, mine seem
to multiple like rabbits, without any help on my part. If you don't
want to loose your posts, title it "Re: Dimple Help," then duck.
Mark Gilbert
mgilbert(at)ixnetcom.com
RV6A
Sacramento
Grateful for the help, up to a point.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | Re: Credit card # on the rv-list |
>>
>>Thanks to all the list members who pointed out that I had sent my credit
>>card # to all 800 people on the list.
>>I changed the number as soon as my error was pointed out, but for the
>>record, no one tried to use it, which has re-affirmed my impression that
>>rv guys are honest.
>>Thanks again, John
>
Say! i must have missed that message! What was that number
again??????
Send email to infobot(at)pdsig.n2.net for a directory of interesting stuff!
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Bill Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Aircraft Remanufacturing Corp
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1531 Avohill Dr
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760) 749 0239
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)pdsig.n2.net Web Site:
http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 landing lights |
airshows1(at)msn.com wrote:
> Just got Van's landing light kit to install on RV-6 I just bought. Very
> disappointed...real cheezo auto parts store stuff. Local builders tell me
> there is an after-market supplier of landing light kits which are much
> better. Anyone know the seller's address and phone number? Thanks!
Which landing light kit are you talking about?
Did you get Van's $30 wingtip kit or the Airtech wingtip kit Vans
sells for $149? I'm considering the Airtech one, and wondering what
it's like. Anyone seen used this?
Another option for wingtip lights is RMD -- from a previous RV-List
message, you can get in touch with Bob DeBorde @ 503-628-6056. I was
told they're about $500 (dunno whether that's US$ or NZ$) or so
though. Also don't know whether that includes lights or if its just
the lens and mounting hardware. Anyone got details?
Also there's LE landing lights -- Olds and I think Duckworks??? I've
seen the Olds one, and it looks OK to me.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Static location? |
>
>Randy:
>
>I am using a Piper "blade type" pitot / static tube on my RV-6. It is
>very accurate in altitude and airspeed. Verified by test, GPS and other
>aircraft.
>
Gary,
Where did you mount your pitot/static tube? Inquiring must must
know, because we must match that location if we hope to also the same
accuracy you got.
There are several versions of the Piper "blade type" pitot/static
tube, all with different angles on the bottom where the static port
is. Different type aircraft need different angles on the bottom to
get the lowest position error. Do you know what model aircraft your
tube came from, or what its part number is?
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators & wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Attention Jim Tennison was Re: Cp Distribution] |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------46564F964135
Hi listers,
This message is for Jim Tennison. Sorry to waste bandwidth, but my email
address for him seems to be out of date. The original, off list message
bounced back to me.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 ailerons
--------------46564F964135
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998 00:29:34 -0500
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Cp Distribution
Jim Tennison wrote:
>
> Hello RV-listers and friends.
>
> Thanks for your replys on the RV-4 and 8 pressure mappings. Sorry, I have
> not had the opportunity to model up the two aircraft yet. I will be working
> on it in my spare time, so hold tight.
>
> I will contact you again when I have some preliminary results.
>
> (Jody, if you don't know what this is all about, contact Charlie Kuss.)
>
> Jim Tennison
Jim,
I was just editting some of my favorite RV-List posts. Your calculating
wing loads post was right up there!!! :-) Thanks. It's been about 8
months since you sent me the above reply. I was just wondering if you
had made an headway? Just wondering.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 starting ailerons today
Boca Raton, Fl.
--------------46564F964135--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Stratmoen <dstrats(at)ruralink.com> |
| Subject: | pretty nose cowl jowls |
I'm helping a friend get his rv4 ready for the paint booth. He is trying
to figure out how to make those cowl cheeks, jowls, whatever they are
called, look decent.(those fiberglass scopes that are riveted on behind
the cowl) He said he'd seen at osh where you couldn't even see the
seam. We assumed it must be body putty used to get that look and it
would proably crack in a short time. Any experience or advice would be
appreciated. thanks in advance
David working on 6AQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gasobek(at)JUNO.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Static location? |
Kevin:
Mounted as close to were plans said. Do not know the part number or
aircraft it came from. I traded an RV-3 builder / pilot for it. Price
was right (free). I have not seen any noticable differences in any of
the "Piper" pitot tubes I have seen / handled. Know about flying 4 RVs
with them. The only difference has been if the heating elements were
installed.
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
writes:
>
>
>
>>
>>Randy:
>>
>>I am using a Piper "blade type" pitot / static tube on my RV-6. It is
>>very accurate in altitude and airspeed. Verified by test, GPS and
other
>>aircraft.
>
>Gary,
>
>Where did you mount your pitot/static tube? Inquiring must must
>know, because we must match that location if we hope to also the same
>accuracy you got.
>
>There are several versions of the Piper "blade type" pitot/static
>tube, all with different angles on the bottom where the static port
>is. Different type aircraft need different angles on the bottom to
>get the lowest position error. Do you know what model aircraft your
>tube came from, or what its part number is?
>
>Take care,
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators &
>wings)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
>Transport Canada
>Ottawa, Canada
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pretty nose cowl jowls |
<< We assumed it must be body putty used to get that look and it
would proably crack in a short time. >>
I would use glass and resin over the seam. Body fill will crack.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <dzflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Now I get to play with the big boys... |
While in my shop building the empennage jig, the doorbell rang. It was UPS
with my empennage kit, and an order from Cleveland Tools... talk about
perfect timing!
Now I get to play with the big boys...
Bob Dz
624DZ (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Web Page, POH |
Listers,
I've finally gotten around to updating my home page to reflect the
completion (except for trim paint) of my RV-6A. The instrument panel, final
assembly, engine test, taxi tests, etc are now included.
The latest version of the RV-6A Pilot's Operating Handbook is also posted.
A few revisions have been made since it's original distribution. This is
probably as close as I'll get to a final version. For those who had
difficulties reading the Word 97 version because they didn't have Word 97,
I've posted the Word 97 viewer from Microsoft for both Win95 and Win31.
Sorry DOS and Mac users. There are instructions on how to download it by
using WS_FTP. Unfortunately this method will not work at the current time.
You will still be able to download it with a web browser. Try back in a few
days when the server is allowing downloads with WS_FTP.
There was a thread a few weeks ago regarding the location of the gascolator.
FWIW, my installation, in the right wing root area can be seen.
The home page is at:
http://villagenet.com/~scottg
The POH has a link from the RV section, but can be directly accessed from:
http://villagenet.com/~scottg/poh.html
The gascolator can be seen at:
http://villagenet.com/~scottg/final.html
Please let me know if anyone has a problem with the POH. I'll post to this
list when WS_FTP will work on the villagenet server.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvmils <Rvmils(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static location? |
Can anyone tell me where I can buy the pre made static ports as a kit.
Carey Mills
45 more days
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Reichert" <reichera(at)clark.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Messages... |
If you had bothered to read your initial item after you subscribed to this
list (you did keep a copy, didn't you), you would know that Matt runs the
list.
If you had any experience running a system or mailing lists, and I can
claim both, you would know that one can not always get to responses in a
timely manner.
Sit back, relax, and enjoy the list. Yeah, there are occasional
glitches... expect them.
- Alan
On Wed, 18 Mar 1998, BERTRV6 wrote:
>
> 3/18/98
>
> Who is this guy is Dralle, is he really a living member:?
> I have repeatedly sent e-Mails to the address, as mentioned in the list, but
> never
> reply.
> Maybe this person or persons are to be remove from the list
> Unless he is such a big shot he cannot answer mail
>
> Maybe some one can answer
> thank you
>
> bertrv6(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian.Carrigan(at)sciatl.com |
unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505 <RBusick505(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Link |
Last night while looking for the F-6119 rudder cable link and did not find it.
It is suppose to be .050 4130 steel 1/2" X 1 3/4" (approx). I looked in all
of the small parts bags and the parts list for the bags. Could not find it.
I do have a .050 1/2" X 20" piece of steel that I have no idea what to use it
for. Is this piece to become the four F-6119s?
Thanks for the help.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Chicago Area RV Builders |
Well, my wife got her residency assignment and, much to our surprise, we
are going to be in Chicago for the next four years (She was expecting to
go to Stanford Hospital). We're expecting to move around mid-June. If
you folks from Chicago would care to reveal yourself to me off the list,
I'm going to want advice on everything from where to look for housing
to how to contact the local EAA. I look forward to meeting new
friends. Thanks.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: the evils of pilot drilled kit |
>
>John,
> Surprised to hear about your problem.
>Of course if the holes are way off or if they are off in the opposite
>direction (so the holes through the angle are too close to the web of the
>rib, you have a bigger problem.
Hi Mike,
Yes, they are off in the "opposite" direction. You have to grind the bolt
heads to move the brackets (YUCK!).
It was pretty common when they started the pre-punched kits. The solution
is to move the skin so that the outboard ribs just barely have enough edge
clearance and then on the inboard angle brackets you have to grind the bolt
heads to buy a tad more clearance. With a lot of jury rigging, you can
barely get all the ribs under the inboard skin to pretty much line up.
However, it would have saved a LOT of work if the spar holes were drilled
correctly for the angle brackets to begin with.
Once again, I appreciate the pre-fab effort. But some things require more
precision than the factory is able/willing to provide. These things should
be left for the builder.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static location? |
<< Can anyone tell me where I can buy the pre made static ports as a kit. >>
They come from Vans ($15) They are simply two rivets w/o a mandrel (the
static ports) and some clear tube and fittings.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Noel E Drew <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
For a longer life of your battery keep it cooler by leaving it pilot side of the
firewall.
This has been well demonstrated by statistics of battery life vs location in motor
vehicles and also between climates in different countries. A mild environment
and a well adjusted regulator makes a big difference.
Noel Drew
RV6 1995
South Africa
noeldrew(at)iafrica.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.Henson(at)cendantmobility.com |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Me |
>>>Who is this guy is Dralle, is he really a living member:?<<<
Ex hit man for the mob, took over the business after Ted Kazinski went on
the Gubment payroll. I wouldn't mess with him, bad news man!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.Henson(at)cendantmobility.com |
| Subject: | Re: Static location? |
Hey Kevin,
I've got a Piper Pitot I'll sell for $50.00. It's in good shape, not heated.
Eric Henson
eric.henson(at)cendantmobility.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WstcttPrss <WstcttPrss(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Allignment, aluminum, size changes |
RV Crowd-
With all this talk of allignment problems and pre-drill accuracy, I thought I
could shed a little light on where some of these problems are comming from.
I own a commercial printing business (sheetfed offset lithography). We print
with .008 Aluminum plates that are about 20 x 26 inches each. When we hang
four of these plates on our four color press, the image on each of the four
plates must be perfectly alligned to the others (to the naked eye). The eye
(mine anyway) can pick up a variation (we call it misregister) of about .003
inches. A five degree temperature change from one plate to the next when
imaging will cause misregister in the neighborhood of .012 inches over 26
inches (remember what happens when we pre-heat skins). So, temperature must
be very consistent when we image out plates if we are to do a good job of
printing.
Imagine the compound effect of much greater temperature fluctuations over much
greater distances when these parts are being manufactured. Drilling out the
under-sized pre punched holes to their proper diameter should compensate for a
lot of that variation, though I can certainly envision situations where it
will not.
I'm sure the engineers amoung us know the precise temp/size change numbers for
aluminum, though I feel my numbers are accurate enough for discussion
purposes.
All that having been said, I wonder just how fine we have to get with this
stuff. I'm sure a big curve in the VS will produce a plane that flies in
circles. Smaller misallignments here and there could produce the happy
accident of a plane that flies straight.
Jeff Carpenter
wstcttprss(at)aol.com
Altadena, CA
RV-6... hesitant to attach the trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com> |
| Subject: | Chicago Area RV Builders |
That's too bad, we're just resurrecting the Bay Area RVators and have
about 150 names in the database! There are also several people helping
me, so it's more likely to stay active and regular even if one or two
people get busy with work/family. Enjoy Chicago, and I can give one
priceless phrase which will get you through the four years:
MyPie Pizza Pie (on Clark St.)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Patrick Kelley [SMTP:patk(at)mail.ic.net]
> Sent: Thursday, March 19, 1998 11:12 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Chicago Area RV Builders
>
>
> Well, my wife got her residency assignment and, much to our surprise,
> we
> are going to be in Chicago for the next four years (She was expecting
> to
> go to Stanford Hospital). We're expecting to move around mid-June.
> If
> you folks from Chicago would care to reveal yourself to me off the
> list,
> I'm going to want advice on everything from where to look for housing
> to how to contact the local EAA. I look forward to meeting new
> friends. Thanks.
>
> PatK - RV-6A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.Henson(at)cendantmobility.com |
| Subject: | Now I get to play with the |
Welcome to the club Bob. Just remember, for every hour you spend reading
ahead in the manual and studying the plans you can cut two off your build
time. Make friends with that learning curve, it's a great experience.
Eric Henson
>>>>Now I get to play with the big boys...<<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pretty nose cowl jowls |
David,
Body putty will work fine as a filler but its pretty heavy. I
suggest using micro balloons and fiberglass resin. Once you have the filler to
the shape you desire you need to cover the filler with a couple of layers of
light glass cloth. This was the method I used and so far no cracks 450hrs.
Ryan
Bendure
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Link |
>I do have a .050 1/2" X 20" piece of steel that I have no idea what to use it
for
BINGO!
Have you found an airport yet?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
>Can anyone tell me where I can buy the pre made static ports as a kit.
Cleveland Tools (clevtool(at)tdsi.net) makes a REALLY nice pair. Mount flush,
look cool.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 vs. I0-360 Questions |
Von wrote:
>
> I am getting ready to start my RV-8 fuselage kit , and am giving some thought
> to what engine to use. My question is, I have heard that the IO-360 200 hp is
> extremely expensive to overhaul and maintain when compared to the carb
> version, but I notice that in Trade-a-plane, the various parts seem to be
> comparative in price.
>
Not just expensive but aren't engine bearings currently on long term backorder?
I was thinking that I might build an RV-8 next and put the new Corvette all
aluminum V8 in it. I'd de-tune it so that it didn't produce the full 350 hp of
course. Then I heard talk that the RV8 is just the RV6 stretched and made
tandem seating. Still....
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Excessive Repeat RV-List Me |
>>Ex hit man for the mob, took over the business after Ted
Kazinski went on
>>the Gubment payroll. I wouldn't mess with him, bad news man!
Dammit! You just blew his cover in the Witness Protection
Program!
Call in the eraser!!
G. Fesenbek
RV-6a in RV(Roanoke, VA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Moore <76147.3367(at)compuserve.com> |
unsubsctibe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Allignment, aluminum, size changes |
In my case, I am hoping that the small misalignments will cancel each
other out and let the machine fly straight!
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Riveting the fuselage at last
-----Original Message-----
Smaller misalignments here and there could produce the happy
accident of a plane that flies straight.
Jeff Carpenter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | rust spots on elevator horns |
I received my -8 empennage kit just over a month ago, and I've noticed that
my rudder horns have just developed several small surface rust spots. Common
sense dictates that I should clean them off with a scotchbrite and prime
them, but I'm still buying tools and building jigs (the NZ$ just plummeted
against the US$ - my emp kit ended up costing $3250 landed, and a hand
squeezer is going to cost $350... yipes...) and I can't afford a spray gun
and booth just yet. What can I do in the interim - clean them and cover it
with oil? WD40? vaseline?
Thanks for any advice
Chris
____
Chris Hinch Phone: +64-3-477-2995
Animation Research Ltd Fax: +64-3-479-9751
Systems Manager e-mail: chinch(at)arl.co.nz
442 Moray Place, PO Box 5580, Dunedin, New Zealand
RV-8 Builder #80630
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvmils <Rvmils(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Financing for RV's |
I recently read on the list where someone will finance RV's. I have $15,000
on hand now and would like to finance the rest. Kurt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvmils <Rvmils(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for used RV4 |
I am looking for a used RV4. Preferrably with O-360 but will settle for
O-320. Kurt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 vs. I0-360 Questions |
I purchased an IO-360-B1E (180 HP. Injected) for my Rv-8. I am currently
moving the injector to the front of the engine. I talked to some people
who know engines and they felt that the 200 HP engine does not hold up as
well as the 180. It seems the 200 is having troubles with cranks and
cylinders. They felt that the small amount of power increase was not worth
the troubles. I am finding a lot of 200's being pulled for conversion from
Mooneys, most have bad cranks.
>
>I am getting ready to start my RV-8 fuselage kit , and am giving some thought
>to what engine to use. My question is, I have heard that the IO-360 200 hp is
>extremely expensive to overhaul and maintain when compared to the carb
>version, but I notice that in Trade-a-plane, the various parts seem to be
>comparative in price. I know the TBO is lower and fuel injection is involved,
>but other than these, what additional costs are involved over the carb
>version? Is there more of the IO's on the market? Are they easier to locate?
>Seems everybody and his uncle is after the 0-360's, drying that market up.
>Those of you that have these engines; how about your experiences for the
>benefit of all on the list? Is any particular dash number more desirable or
>more reliable than others? I notice that what few RV-s I have seen takeoff
>with these engines and a CS prop, really have impressive performance,
>noticeably more than the 180's. Observations? I need to decide pretty soon
>because I want to purchase an engine this summer, hoping to fly by late fall
>(yeah,sure).
>Thanks
>Von Alexander
>RV-4 N107RV
>RV-8 #544
>Oregon
>
>
>
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Static location? |
Gary,
Thanks for the info on the location. The differences between the
different versions of the "Piper" pitot is pretty small. Just a
different angle on the bottom surface. I was involved in flight
testing of the latest version of the Diamond Katana with the IO-240
engine. They tried all the different versions of the "Piper" pitot,
and eventually had to machine one to yet another angle on the bottom.
The error in the static system was markedly different between
different versions of the "Piper" pitot. They also tried different
locations under the wing. The difference between the best and worst
was more than 15 kt at high speed (160 KCAS), less at low speeds.
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators & wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada
>
>Kevin:
>
>Mounted as close to were plans said. Do not know the part number or
>aircraft it came from. I traded an RV-3 builder / pilot for it. Price
>was right (free). I have not seen any noticable differences in any of
>the "Piper" pitot tubes I have seen / handled. Know about flying 4 RVs
>with them. The only difference has been if the heating elements were
>installed.
>
>Gary A. Sobek
>RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
>So. CA, USA
>
> writes:
>>
>>Gary,
>>
>>Where did you mount your pitot/static tube? Inquiring must must
>>know, because we must match that location if we hope to also the same
>>accuracy you got.
>>
>>There are several versions of the Piper "blade type" pitot/static
>>tube, all with different angles on the bottom where the static port
>>is. Different type aircraft need different angles on the bottom to
>>get the lowest position error. Do you know what model aircraft your
>>tube came from, or what its part number is?
>>
>>Take care,
>>
>>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators &
>>wings)
>>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>>Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
>>Transport Canada
>>Ottawa, Canada
>>
>>>Randy:
>>>
>>>I am using a Piper "blade type" pitot / static tube on my RV-6. It is
>>>very accurate in altitude and airspeed. Verified by test, GPS and
>>>other aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: deluxe line drawing |
Re: Line drawing up the RV-6 Tipup
Glen,
Good job!! Can this be "paint brushed" and/or made into a screen saver?
Martin Shorman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | UFOBUCK <UFOBUCK(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Financing for RV's |
You might E-mail bkclary @aol.com. He is a banker in Amarillo, Texas , has a
RV-6A and might be of some help to you. Its the Amarillo National Bank. They
are a large independent bank and are aggressive lenders.
What do you want to finance ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rust spots on elevator horns |
Chris;
You could try your local hardware (ironmonger?) store and see if they have a
phosphoric acid, here there is a brand called OSPHOS. It is a blue liquid
usually in a bottle. Brush or swab it on the metal. It neutralizes the
acid and forms a protective coat that they claim is ok as a primer for the
steel. I don't want to bring that up again.! It isn't final protection for
the steel, but it sure neutralizes it well and puts a type of protection on
it. Where there is rust, it brings up a sort of scabbby, rough spot on the
metal. I think a 32 oz bottle cost me about 3.50 US.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
>my rudder horns have just developed several small surface rust spots.
Common
>and booth just yet. What can I do in the interim - clean them and cover it
>with oil? WD40? vaseline?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael V Seager <rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primers (again) |
Marty Emrath wrote:
>
> Recently, there was more on the list about the Sherwin Willams G988
> and I noticed the list had nothing about the following:
> While doing my research at Sherwin Willams Automotive Finishes, I
> learned that the G988 self etching spray can that others have noted as
> a competitor to Marhyde comes in two part gallon cans under the
> numbers E2-G980 (olive drab) or E2-G983 (chromate Free). These are
> the equivalent to the G988, are self etching filler primers. The spec
> sheet calls out the reducer activator as R7-K981 Fast or R7-K982 Slow
> when mixed 1 to 1 or reduce 2 E2-G980 or 983 to 1 part R7-k985. The
> combination of G980 with K981 has a usable pot life of 7 days, but the
> others for only 1 day, ALL PER THE SPEC SHEET. This is supposed to be
> a sandable finish. Just thought Inquiring Minds Should Know, I have
> not used this paint, but thought others might like to know. The
> Industrial Wash primer P60G 2 with R7 K 44 is sold by my local SW
> Chemical Coatings Div, and the guys at the Automotive Div. could not
> tell me anything about it. The filler primer is about twice as much
> money as the wash primer and goes on thicker so probably weighs more
> upon completion.
>
> Now for my question, does anyone know about a two part water based
> primer that is sold by DEFT? I visited a local EAA member's project
> last night and he was using this on a GlasStar wing. Said it was very
> tough, resists MEK and such but a bit expensive, about $100 for a one
> gal. kit. Purchased in Florida.
> Boy, here we go again with the primer thread but a water based paint
> surely must be better health wise for us.
>
> Marty, RV6 VS in Jig - just getting started.
>
Marty, I have used PPG wash primer DX1791 and catylast DX1792 for the
last few years it goes on very thin is mek resistant, and only cost
about $55.00 dollards for two gallons. No one ever talks about it too
much but when people come look at my project everyone thinks it is
anodized.Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael V Seager <rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 landing lights |
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
> William G. Knight wrote:
> >
> >
> > Just got Van's landing light kit to install on RV-6 I just bought. Very
> > disappointed...real cheezo auto parts store stuff. Local builders tell me
> > there is an after-market supplier of landing light kits which are much
> > better. Anyone know the seller's address and phone number? Thanks!
> >
> William
> The "real cheezo auto parts store stuff" will last many time longer
> than the the high priced aviation lamps. I have a couple 100 watt
> halogen auto parts store lamps and they light up the runway like a
> highway at night. in over 800 hrs I have not yet had to replace a
> landing light. If you bought the kit from Van's I assume
> it is the Duckworks kit manufactured by Don Wentz and they work
> very well.
> Jerry
> --
> Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
> jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
> William, I concur with Jerry I used the aviation 100 watt bulbs and had to replace
them every 25 hours. I found the 100 watt halogen automotive bulbs to be
brighter and last longer also is very nice installation. Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Financing for RV's |
I got a loan from Greentree, they are outstanding for both service and
rates.
Marcus
RV-6, Finishing kit in progress, engines on the floor ready to go.
>
> I recently read on the list where someone will finance RV's. I have
$15,000
> on hand now and would like to finance the rest. Kurt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
I am trying to get in touch with Hugh Drummond of Australia whom I
believe is on this list.
If not, do any of our Australian readers know him, or can anyone confirm
if _____@acslink.net is a legitimate Australian internet carrier?
Perhaps, if I am off by a letter, you can correct me.
Thanks,
Andy Gold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rust spots on elevator horns |
I was told by somebody at Vans that they use a light coat of WD-40 on
the quickbuilds to keep away corrosion during shipping. I'm not sure how
hard it will be to get this stuff off at priming time. There are many
rust conversion coatings available out there. I use a spray on product
called "extend". Clean off all the rust, and spray this stuff on. It
converts any surface rust into a hard black primer like coating that
paint loves to stick to. It also neutralizes any microscopic corrosion
that you may not have gotten with that scotchbrite wheel. Hope this
helps.
Moe Colontonio
RV-8 Rudder
QB ordered
Chris Hinch wrote:
>
>
> I received my -8 empennage kit just over a month ago, and I've noticed that
> my rudder horns have just developed several small surface rust spots. Common
> sense dictates that I should clean them off with a scotchbrite and prime
> them, but I'm still buying tools and building jigs (the NZ$ just plummeted
> against the US$ - my emp kit ended up costing $3250 landed, and a hand
> squeezer is going to cost $350... yipes...) and I can't afford a spray gun
> and booth just yet. What can I do in the interim - clean them and cover it
> with oil? WD40? vaseline?
>
> Thanks for any advice
> Chris
> ____
>
> Chris Hinch Phone: +64-3-477-2995
> Animation Research Ltd Fax: +64-3-479-9751
> Systems Manager e-mail: chinch(at)arl.co.nz
> 442 Moray Place, PO Box 5580, Dunedin, New Zealand
>
> RV-8 Builder #80630
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Drain Thread Sealant? |
Installing the brass tank drains into the aluminum threaded unit that holds
it, do I need to use any sealant of any kind, or just thread it in? The plans
show it threaded all the way in against the aluminum, or should it only be
turned in until tight?
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 #544
on Alexander
N107RV
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ian Kerr <ikerr(at)macromedia.com> |
A bit OT,
Has anyone noticed the "RV-6 Plus" for sale?
http://www.ASO.com/ad/21744/
It seems to be a 260 bhp, 6-cylinder RV-6 with Harmon Rocket type
modifications.
Does anyone know anything about this?
-Ian
And what the heck is a Harmon Rocket, anyway? Good? Bad? Safe? Dangerous?
Easy to build? Cheap? Expensive?
You get the idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Excessive Repeat RV-List Messages... |
spencer wrote:
>
>
> > 3/18/98
> >
> > Who is this guy is Dralle, is he really a living member:?
>
> > Maybe this person or persons are to be remove from the list
> > Unless he is such a big shot he cannot answer mail
> >
> > Maybe some one can answer
> > thank you
> >
> > bertrv6(at)aol.com
>
>Bert;
The only out of this is to get your check book out, write a check for 20
bucks and send it to the following address.
List Support
c/o Matt G. Dralle
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, Ca. 94551
All will be forgiven.
Marty RV-6AQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gasobek(at)JUNO.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Static location? |
<v03130300b13754266969@[209.195.64.90]>
Kevin:
Mine does read low at the low end. Stall is an indicated 40 Kts. Should
be about 43 Kts. Have not test verified any speeds below 80 KTAS. Top
end 130 throug 175 Knots is within 2 KTAS. (Low side.) 175 KTAS in level
fight is only on a good day.
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
writes:
>
>
>Gary,
>
>Thanks for the info on the location. The differences between the
>different versions of the "Piper" pitot is pretty small. Just a
>different angle on the bottom surface. I was involved in flight
>testing of the latest version of the Diamond Katana with the IO-240
>engine. They tried all the different versions of the "Piper" pitot,
>and eventually had to machine one to yet another angle on the bottom.
>The error in the static system was markedly different between
>different versions of the "Piper" pitot. They also tried different
>locations under the wing. The difference between the best and worst
>was more than 15 kt at high speed (160 KCAS), less at low speeds.
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators &
>wings)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Ottawa, Canada
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rust spots on elevator horns |
----------
> From: Chris Hinch <chinch(at)arl.co.nz>
> To: rvlist(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: rust spots on elevator horns
> Date: Thursday, March 19, 1998 4:10 PM
>
>
> I received my -8 empennage kit just over a month ago, and I've noticed
that
> my rudder horns have just developed several small surface rust spots.
Common
> sense dictates that I should clean them off with a scotchbrite and prime
> them, but I'm still buying tools and building jigs (the NZ$ just
plummeted
> against the US$ - my emp kit ended up costing $3250 landed, and a hand
> squeezer is going to cost $350... yipes...) and I can't afford a spray
gun
> and booth just yet. What can I do in the interim - clean them and cover
it
> with oil? WD40? vaseline?
>
> Thanks for any advice
> Chris
> ____
>
> Chris Hinch Phone: +64-3-477-2995
> Animation Research Ltd Fax: +64-3-479-9751
> Systems Manager e-mail: chinch(at)arl.co.nz
> 442 Moray Place, PO Box 5580, Dunedin, New Zealand
>
> RV-8 Builder #80630
>
Dear Chris,
I have found that LPS-3 is one of the best easy to use aerosol heavy
lubricant and preservaative that is out there. Is it in NZ ? I don't
know.
> You just spray it on and within a few days it drys to a waxy film. I
have used it for years to preserve antique engine parts etc. I t will
tolerate some handling without wearing off.
Good Luck.
Dick Martin
R V 8 80124 fuselage almost done+
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
| Subject: | rust spots on elevator horns |
You wrote: "... and I can't afford a spray gun
and booth just yet. What can I do in the interim - clean them and
cover it
with oil? WD40? vaseline?"
Chris:
WD40 would do it. You might also consider cleaning, alodyning and
brushing on a primer. A third option is spraying the part with an
aerosol can: zinc oxide is available in the USA in this form...
perhaps it is also in NZ, but if not, almost anything would protect
the part until you're ready to spray a proper primer on it.
Whatever you do, don't neglect the inside of this part. Clean it
well and slosh primer down inside it.
Good luck.
George
#80006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Bundy" <bundyb(at)infowest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All-Steel Fittings in Engine Compartment? |
> What's the experience of others? Was Scott's an isolated case of a
> defective fitting, or have other folks experienced similar failure in
> aluminum fittings in the engine compartment?
> Thanks,
Tim,
In doing the work of the annual inspection on my C172C, I found that two
aluminum fittings where cracked in the seam. I went with steel and am
strongly considering put steel at the fire wall also. I think that I would
rather put up with a little corrosion than to lose my oil in flight.
One must understand that this continental O-300-D is a six cylinder
producing for less power and vibration than even an IO-320.
After this experience I am convinced of the need to put all steel in my
Chard 6 with the Cont. IO-346 and the 4 high compression pistons and
TSIO-520 cylinders. Now this engine would put any Harley to shame when it
comes to vibration.
Brad Bundy Flying Art Chards' RV 6 N48AC and C172C N8270X
bundyb(at)infowest.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Link |
YES.
0 vs. I0-360 Questions
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998 22:39:11 -0600
Dear Von,
I am building an RV8 and faced the engine dilema last year. After talking
to everybody and then talking to people who know (Lycoming factory types
etc) , I learned the basic differences on the varous IO360 series engines.
Basically they are divided up into several types . A & C series that are
rated at 200 hp. B series rated at 180. A series has front mounted fuel
injector (preferred on the RV8 and the C series has a rear mounted
injector. It can however be converted at additional expense. It appears
that the earlier series engines without the crankshaft dampers such as on
most of the early Moonies are more likely to have cracked cranks etc. They
also can usually be bought runout at not much price difference from the 0
360 180 carbureted engines.
The engine of choice for the RV8 is the IO360A1B6 200 hp. This engine
has 2nd and 4th order crankshaft dampers ( this is the first question that
the Hartzell propeller people are going to ask you when you ask about a
propeller) and it is equipped with 2 magnetos. This engine is in
relativily short supply as their never were very many used.
The next choice is the IO360A3B6D 200 hp. This engine also has the 2nd
and 4th order crankshaft dampers. However it is equipped with a single
Dual magneto. also the propeller will stop at a slightly different
position, this was a Mooney requirement apparently. The only drawback is
the single magneto drive. However if you use an electronic ignition, it is
a moot point. It also has the front mounted fuel servo the same as the
IO360A1B6.
There are many other minor variations of this engine series and many of
them are usuaable. When looking at the model number look for the "B" in
the second or third last digit, It denotes the dampered crankshaft. The
suffix "D" on the end denotes single drive dual magneto.
If you call Lycoming, they will send you a brochure with all of the engine
designations and what they were typically used for.
I hope this helps you
Dick Martin
RV8 80124 Fuselage allmost done finish kit is here and looks good
----------
> From: MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 0-360 vs. I0-360 Questions
> Date: Wednesday, March 18, 1998 8:27 PM
>
>
> I am getting ready to start my RV-8 fuselage kit , and am giving some
thought
> to what engine to use. My question is, I have heard that the IO-360 200
hp is
> extremely expensive to overhaul and maintain when compared to the carb
> version, but I notice that in Trade-a-plane, the various parts seem to be
> comparative in price. I know the TBO is lower and fuel injection is
involved,
> but other than these, what additional costs are involved over the carb
> version? Is there more of the IO's on the market? Are they easier to
locate?
> Seems everybody and his uncle is after the 0-360's, drying that market
up.
> Those of you that have these engines; how about your experiences for the
> benefit of all on the list? Is any particular dash number more desireable
or
> more reliable than others? I notice that what few RV-s I have seen
takeoff
> with these engines and a CS prop, really have impressive performance,
> noticeably more than the 180's. Observations? I need to decide pretty
soon
> because I want to purchase an engine this summer, hoping to fly by late
fall
> (yeah,sure).
> Thanks
> Von Alexander
> RV-4 N107RV
> RV-8 #544
> Oregon
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Powersonic Battery? |
> Does anyone know about the PowerSonic battery I just bought from A/C Spruce?
> In the catalog it states it is a "Sealed Maintenance free, recombined oxygen
> cycle battery" (catalog page 324, 26 amp-hour). I took this to mean a
> recombinant gas battery (RG battery) as recommended by Bob Knuckolls.
>
> Now on opening the package, the invoice I get says it is a "Gell Cell
> battery" which Knuckolls does not recommend.
>
> THEN I call them to clarify, and they refer me to Allied Battery here in
> Seattle. I was just AT Allied shopping for a battery and they would NOT sell
> me the same battery I just bought from ACS. Allied said they could not
> guaranty the battery because it was not meant to be charged from an
> automotive type regulator.
>
> Who's right? Is this an RG or Gell Cell? Can it be charged with an
> alternator/regulator? Should I just give up and get a lead-acid battery?
> I have the same battery, it has worked fine for the first 8 hours, I like to
> know if there is a problem with this installation now that my A/C is
> aaaaalmost ready to fly.
I'd be very surprised if it's a real Gel-Cell . . . If operated
not over 14.4 volts it will be fine . . .
BTW, some conversations with various Lead-Acid battery manufacturers
over the past week has yielded the following:
There is a slight difference in recommended charging voltages between
batteries made from "virgin lead" versus "recycled lead" which has
some calcium in it. Most batteries have recycled lead and like to
operate at 13.8 for their 100% recharge voltage (room temp) while
a few batteries like the B&C products are new, clean lead and are
happier at the 14.4 setting.
The consequences of operating a virgin lead battery at "too low"
a bus voltage simply means that you don't recharge it as quickly
nor does it get "topped off" . . . the exact capacity limit is not
known to me yet but I suspect it's still better than 90%. Soooooo,
difference in performance will be hard to perceive and service
life will be good too.
I'll be talking to more folk over the next few weeks and will publish
a more complete article on the topic.
While on the topic of batteries, there was a lot of discussion
a few months back about the evils of paralleling and some
suggestions circulated about needing "battery isolators" for
proper operation of dual batteries. The piece I did on battery
paralleling <http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bat_iso2.pdf>
has been reviewed by two manufacturers and blessed. I'll
publish further details in a few weeks.
We'll be in California for the next week. I have a critical
design review to attend for a few days and I'm taking the
family along for some R&R. Back on-line the 29th.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary kozinski" <KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com> |
| Subject: | 3rd Class Medical and 40 yrs old |
The following questions was raised :
"My third-class medical expires in a couple of months, but since I have turned
40 during the last two years, does the 3-year medical for those under 40
apply? Would I get an extra year since I was under 40 when I got my medical?
Can't quite figure this one out. Anybody know for sure?"
NO, you need to get a medical which since your now over 40 will continue to be
good for only two years. I was confused too and asked AOPA for clarification.
The new rules only apply if you got a medical after the rules were in place
(I believe Aug 97) and you were not yet 40. I was under 40 and needed a medical
late in 97. So a 3rd class in my case would be usable for three years. Then
I'll be over 40 and have to go back every two years.
I hope this clarifies it for you.
Gary RV-6 20038 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 vs. I0-360 Questions |
| From: | rvpilot(at)JUNO.COM (William R. Davis Jr) |
Hi Dick,
Just a minor point or two. I believe that it is the "6" in the engine
model designation that denotes a counter-weighted crankshaft . The 6
means one 6th order counterweight and one 8th order counterweight.
Regards, Bill RV4, N66WD
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Drain Thread Sealant? |
| From: | rvpilot(at)JUNO.COM (William R. Davis Jr) |
Von,
auto parts stores. Use just a little starting on the 2nd thread. Finger
tight plus 1/2 to 3/4 turn is plenty. Do not use teflon tape, bits of it
will get in your fuel system.
Regards, Bill RV4 N66WD
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jensen, Keith (MC R&D)" <KJensen(at)simplot.com> |
>
> Gentlemen;
>
> Some of you think we may be bitching about nothing, but the fact is I
> cannot get the bolts though both pairs of the HS413 brackets on my
> RV-8 HS
> rear spar. One is off by about 1/16".
>
I wasn't going to say anything, but . . . if it helps someone in the
future, I put a bearing complete with nut and bolt through the two
halves of HS412/HS413 when doing the clecoing, drilling and final
riveting, so that I would be assured of being able to get the bearings
in after all was said and done. It IS a tight fit between halves, esp.
412; that's good. But now I can get my bearings in as needed, without
gouging open the holes with a 5/8" drill. :-)
Yes, my outer 413 brackets were off by something between 1/64" and 1/32"
(about 0.022" when divided out); the inner ones were right on. Because
of the floating bearing, this outer misalignment is halved, to about ten
thousandths. When queried, the design engineer said he wouldn't worry
about such a small number; his indication was that he'd start to worry
on HS413 if the FINAL misalignment were more than 1/16" (0.063").
Keith Jensen
-6A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505 <RBusick505(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Link |
Hal
Thanks for the reply. No I haven't found an airport. I work within 5
minutes of Palo Alto and live within 20 minutes of Livermore. I like both
places. I wonder how much trouble it will be to get a hanger or to share a
hanger at one or the other.
A friend of mine who started building with me when I was in New Mexico, just
moved to the Bay Area and has his flying RV-6 at Palo Alto. He does not plan
on getting a hanger. I guess that will work!
I'll keep looking, but in no hurry.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | 6A-QB flap brace fitting |
I'm just at the point of fitting the flap brace on my 6A-QB kit. It looks
like the flush rivet on each rib to rear spar joint was put in the wrong
place, 2nd from bottom instead of 2nd from top. So the flap brace sits on
universal rivet heads on the rear spar. I thought at first that I must
have the brace the wrong way up, but it is correctly positioned between the
edge of the bottom wing skin & the rear spar.
I could:
a) Drill out the universal rivets & pop rivet through the flap brace spar
& rib.
b) Cut clearance holes in the flap brace for the universal heads & pop
rivet either side.
c) Ignore the interference & just pop rivet the brace down.
None of these options sounds great! Has anyone else faced these problems?
I noticed in the wing bulding section of the preview plans that it says the
offending rivets MAY be flush, as though there's some alternative method.
Also, in checking this, I found that none of the rivets are flush in the
aileron area where the aileron gap seal is attached. At least I still have
access to this area so that I could replace the universals with flush for
the lowest rivets. Would you advise that I do this?
Both wings are the same in both respects.
Regards,
Chris Good.
West Bend, WI.
6A-QB #3091
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | Heres a source of used Lycomings |
At the risk of being accused of spamming, I'd like to pass on that
National Aircraft Salvage (Long Beach, Ca), regularly gets Lycs from
wrecked and salvage airplanes and sells them quite reasonable. (This
is only for those of you who don't buy everything brand new).
Their number is 562-426-8309
Send email to infobot(at)pdsig.n2.net for a directory of interesting stuff!
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Bill Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Aircraft Remanufacturing Corp
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1531 Avohill Dr
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760) 749 0239
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)pdsig.n2.net Web Site:
http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
Tim,
I had the separator on my 150 hp RV-6 for a couple of hundred hours. I
then removed it because I needed the location on my firewall for
installation of the module for the Rose electronic ignition. I now route
the breather straight to the exhaust pipe. After 150-200 hours, I've
noticed no difference in the amount of gunk on the belly of the aircraft
and, based on this experience, would not install a separator. It's
something that is easily retrofitted (if space is allowed) if you feel you
need one.
Bob Skinner RV-6 405 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Given the small amount of gunk your air/oil separator is picking up,
>is it even worth having one? I could just dump the breather tube
>overboard.
>
>Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Advice-P. Planner |
| From: | lm4(at)JUNO.COM (Larry Mac Donald) |
I've just received a hugh post card from " Panel Planner" and since I've
long thought of buying this, it's time to ask.
Would anyone care to comment on the usefulness of this product ?
Will it save me half of the panel construction time ?
Do I really need the two hundred dollar version, or would the one hundred
dollar version do nicely ? Since I'd have to buy a C.D. drive to use it,
is it really worth the cost of a C.D. drive plus 1 or 2 hundred ?
Thanks in advance.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice-P. Planner |
<< Would anyone care to comment on the usefulness of this product ?
Will it save me half of the panel construction time ? >>
I used Lotus Freelance Plus (a simple graphics program that I got from work).
I made instrument icons for each instrument and gauge and arranged and
rearranged them until I was happy. Printed a full size copy (at a cost of $10
at a print shop) and used it as a template. Worked great. Total cost...$10
for the printing. I was able to lay my template on top of the panel and
center punch all hole locations. I then used (borrowed) instrument punches
and hand cut the radio rack. Very easy...very cheep. I cant imagine anything
easier and Im sure that PP is the same but it come with the icons. Come-on
now, how hard is it to make a 3 1/8" circle and put a box with standard screw
locations. Once you make one you copy it and you have as many as you need.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Third Class Medical |
| From: | ebundy(at)JUNO.COM (Ed Bundy) |
>My third-class medical expires in a couple of months, but since I have
>turned 40 during the last two years, does the 3-year medical for those
under
>40 apply? Would I get an extra year since I was under 40 when I got my
>medical?
Hi Von. I went through this about 6 months ago. I finally got an answer
from my AME, and verified it with another local pilot that had just gone
through it. The 3 year medical does not extend your current 3rd class
medical from 2 to 3 years. I'm 36, and I didn't just get an extra year
when the 2nd year was up. You have to have your medical performed after
the date the change went into effect, and then it's good for 3 years from
that date.
I *think* that as long as you are under 40 when you have the medical
performed, that you get the 3 years even if you are 42 when it expires,
but I'm not sure. It may expire if you turn 40 between years 2 and 3.
In my case, I'll still be under 40 when it expires, so I know I'm okay
this time. Unfortunately, this doesn't help you much.
Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy@juno.com - http://members.aol.com/rv67em/
-
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | 6A-QB flap brace fitting |
I faced the same problem you did. The first wing I put clearance holes
in the flap brace. The second, I drilled out the rivets. I was
actually able to buck all but a couple of the rib rivets. The rest I
put pop rivets on. I think structurally, it may be better to drill out
becaue that is the only way you are going to be able to tie the flap
brace into the ribs. However, I don't think it is a big deal either
way.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Good [SMTP:101560.1256(at)compuserve.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 20, 1998 11:19 AM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: 6A-QB flap brace fitting
>
>
> I'm just at the point of fitting the flap brace on my 6A-QB kit. It
> looks
> like the flush rivet on each rib to rear spar joint was put in the
> wrong
> place, 2nd from bottom instead of 2nd from top. So the flap brace
> sits on
> universal rivet heads on the rear spar. I thought at first that I
> must
> have the brace the wrong way up, but it is correctly positioned
> between the
> edge of the bottom wing skin & the rear spar.
>
> I could:
> a) Drill out the universal rivets & pop rivet through the flap brace
> spar
> & rib.
> b) Cut clearance holes in the flap brace for the universal heads &
> pop
> rivet either side.
> c) Ignore the interference & just pop rivet the brace down.
>
> None of these options sounds great! Has anyone else faced these
> problems?
>
> I noticed in the wing bulding section of the preview plans that it
> says the
> offending rivets MAY be flush, as though there's some alternative
> method.
>
> Also, in checking this, I found that none of the rivets are flush in
> the
> aileron area where the aileron gap seal is attached. At least I still
> have
> access to this area so that I could replace the universals with flush
> for
> the lowest rivets. Would you advise that I do this?
>
> Both wings are the same in both respects.
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris Good.
> West Bend, WI.
> 6A-QB #3091
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: 6A-QB flap brace fitting |
Chris,
I am going to be doing this operation this weekend or next. I have done
trimming of flap brace and didn't notice a problem. If I see what you are
seeing, my solution will probably be b) - certainly not c) and a) sounds like
too much work.
hal
> I'm just at the point of fitting the flap brace on my 6A-QB kit. It looks
> like the flush rivet on each rib to rear spar joint was put in the wrong
> place, 2nd from bottom instead of 2nd from top. So the flap brace sits on
> universal rivet heads on the rear spar. I thought at first that I must
> have the brace the wrong way up, but it is correctly positioned between the
> edge of the bottom wing skin & the rear spar.
>
> I could:
> a) Drill out the universal rivets & pop rivet through the flap brace spar
> & rib.
> b) Cut clearance holes in the flap brace for the universal heads & pop
> rivet either side.
> c) Ignore the interference & just pop rivet the brace down.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
I saw a post to the list a few days ago about mounting a camera in the VS or wing,
but I missed the followups. Does anyone know where I can get information on this?
I'd like to put one in my wingtip, where the landing light goes.
Moe Colontonio
RV-8 Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice-P. Planner |
Larry Mac Donald wrote:
>
>
> I've just received a hugh post card from " Panel Planner" and since I've
> long thought of buying this, it's time to ask.
> Would anyone care to comment on the usefulness of this product?
I've put a lot of time and energy into the design of my panel. I started
out using a drawing program. When I finally bought Panel Planner, I
thought I'd died and gone to heaven. I highly recommend it. The Pro
version has some extra features, as you will have noted on the postcard,
and you can decide yourself whether they're useful to you or not. In
terms of panel layout, Panel Planner is extremely useful.
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Nguyen <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | 6A-QB flap brace fitting -Reply |
Chris,
I hope that you have fit checked the trailing edge of your flap against the
aileron trailing edge to make sure they are lining up ( at neutral position)
prior to attaching the flap brace to the wing rear spar. As for your flap
brace interference problem, I would go with option B.
For your aileron seal problem, I would locate those universal head
positions and drill clearance holes on the aileron seal to allow it to fit
flush against the rear spar. Then, I would come up with a 2" spacing
hole pattern overlapping the clearance holes to attach the aileron seal to
the rear spar. This seems to be less work than to drill out those
universal head rivets and then countersunk the holes on the rear spar
for the AN426 rivets.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A Fuselage
>>> Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> 03/20/98 10:18am
>>>
<101560.1256(at)compuserve.com>
I'm just at the point of fitting the flap brace on my 6A-QB kit. It looks
like the flush rivet on each rib to rear spar joint was put in the wrong
place, 2nd from bottom instead of 2nd from top. So the flap brace sits on
universal rivet heads on the rear spar. I thought at first that I must
have the brace the wrong way up, but it is correctly positioned between
the
edge of the bottom wing skin & the rear spar.
I could:
a) Drill out the universal rivets & pop rivet through the flap brace spar
& rib.
b) Cut clearance holes in the flap brace for the universal heads & pop
rivet either side.
c) Ignore the interference & just pop rivet the brace down.
None of these options sounds great! Has anyone else faced these
problems?
I noticed in the wing bulding section of the preview plans that it says the
offending rivets MAY be flush, as though there's some alternative
method.
Also, in checking this, I found that none of the rivets are flush in the
aileron area where the aileron gap seal is attached. At least I still have
access to this area so that I could replace the universals with flush for
the lowest rivets. Would you advise that I do this?
Both wings are the same in both respects.
Regards,
Chris Good.
West Bend, WI.
6A-QB #3091
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)startext.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
Bob Skinner wrote:
After 150-200 hours, I've
> noticed no difference in the amount of gunk on the belly of the aircraft
> and, based on this experience, would not install a separator. It's
> something that is easily retrofitted (if space is allowed) if you feel you
> need one.
Bob, I recently talked with Bobby Osborn, the gent from whom I
purchased my engine...he suggested not using an oil separator because he
felt my engine and many Lycomings did not need it. Your confirmation
was welcome...how are you liking the EI? I am going with mags for a
while...my H2AD engine with Siamese mags sort of discourages me from
going EI at this time...only one mag hole and not practical to discard a
mag and keep the case...
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
RV-6A still working the cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 vs. I0-360 Questions |
I notice that in Trade-a-plane, the various parts seem to be
>comparative in price. I know the TBO is lower and fuel injection is involved,
>but other than these, what additional costs are involved over the carb
>version? Is there more of the IO's on the market? Are they easier to locate?
I believe the TBO is the same 2000 HR on IO-360(200HP) or O-360(180HP).
There is an injected version of the 180(also designated IO-360). The 200HP
has the angle valve arrangement which is more expensive to overhaul($3000
Maybe). There is $9000 difference between Van's OEM price on the 180 and
200. As far as easier to locate, I would say maybe. They were in Mooneys,
Cardinals, Sierras and others. I think the Mooney modification people might
be a source for these engines. I've seen their ads in the Flyer, and
Trade-a-Plane.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: 0-360 vs. I0-360 Questions |
>Compaq"
>The engine of choice for the RV8 is the IO360A1B6 200 hp. This engine
>has 2nd and 4th order crankshaft dampers ( this is the first question that
>the Hartzell propeller people are going to ask you when you ask about a
>propeller) and it is equipped with 2 magnetos. This engine is in
>relativily short supply as their never were very many used.
>The next choice is the IO360A3B6D 200 hp. This engine also has the 2nd
>and 4th order crankshaft dampers. However it is equipped with a single
>Dual magneto. also the propeller will stop at a slightly different
>position, this was a Mooney requirement apparently. The only drawback is
>the single magneto drive. However if you use an electronic ignition, it is
>a moot point. It also has the front mounted fuel servo the same as the
>IO360A1B6.
>I hope this helps you
>Dick Martin
>RV8 80124 Fuselage allmost done finish kit is here and looks good
Dick,
Correct me if I am wrong. Van is selling the IO-360 A1"D""6". "A" stands
for Front mounted Fuel servo, "1" for Constant Speed Crankshaft, "D" for
front case mounted prop governor, "6" for the counterweighted(sixth & eight
order is correct I believe). This engine does not have the dual mags. This
would be designated by a "D" after the 6 - A1B6"D".
Hope this helps
Shelby in Nashville,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
TEST
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
I got my new Sterba prop yesterday. It is a 68x72. Cruise 130 mph at 2500
rpm. 160 mph at 2900 rpm. It would probably go to 3000 rpm if I let it.
It climbed great. This is on a 150 hp rv-4. I spoke to Mr Sterba last
night. He said he didn't understand what happened but is going to make me a
new one with a lot more pitch, possibly a 68x82. I don't try to second
guess these prop makers because I know they know a lot more about making
props than I do. Does anyone have any opinions on why I got those speeds?
It was at 1000 feet, using gps, 2 direction averaged. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
Listers,
I started my flaps today, and could not find a full scale drawing of the 606B
- The flat
part of the 3 Braces with the slight bend in it.
Am I missing something or I was just too tired to see it. That's the problem
building in your hangar and not the garage.
Thanks in advance for the reply.
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings & Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primers (again) |
Marty,
We used DEFT primer on a Glastar that I helped build. Your friend is
correct.
This primer is pretty much bullet proof. It's the most durable primer that
I've used but is kind of a pain to mix. It is a three part primer with one
part being water. One of the components is very thick, almost paste like
which makes blending a pain. You mix the two components together and then
thin with water. I wouldn't necessarily say that this primer is healthier
just because it has water. I use a mask or fresh air system for all
spraying. As I said on the list a few years back: "Hobby Air system,
$350----lung transplant, $100,000."
DEFT has a home page at: http://www.deftfinishes.com/
(Glad to do anything I can to keep the primer wars going:) )
Bob Skinner RV-6 405 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Now for my question, does anyone know about a two part water based primer
that is sold by DEFT? I visited a local EAA member's project last night and
he was using this on a GlasStar wing. Said it was very tough, resists MEK
and such but a bit expensive, about $100 for a one gal. kit. Purchased in
Florida.
>Boy, here we go again with the primer thread but a water based paint
surely must be better health wise for us.
>
>Marty, RV6 VS in Jig - just getting started.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HillJW <HillJW(at)aol.com> |
Yes, I know about the rv-6+. A friend of mine built/owns it. It is
stretched, with two seats added in the back. It is very well done, a
beautiful aircraft. Also very fast.
hilljw(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Drain Thread Sealant? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)JUNO.COM (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Installing the brass tank drains into the aluminum threaded unit that
>holds
>it, do I need to use any sealant of any kind, or just thread it in?
>The plans
>show it threaded all the way in against the aluminum, or should it
>only be
>turned in until tight?
>Thanks.
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 #544
>
>
>
At work we use fuel lube.
This makes a good seal but allows for easy removal.
Occasionally when sumping the tanks with the quick drains a small piece
of something will get caught under the seal and it will drip.
Having the fuel lube on the drain threads allows you to easily remove the
drain (with someone holding there finger over the hole so the fuel
doesn't all drain out) and clean the crud out of the seal, then
reinstall.
Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. Finally Sold!
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
> I started my flaps today, and could not find a full scale drawing of the
606B
> - The flat
> part of the 3 Braces with the slight bend in it.
>
> Am I missing something or I was just too tired to see it. That's the
problem
> building in your hangar and not the garage.
>
> Thanks in advance for the reply.
>
>
> BSivori(at)AOL.COM
> N929RV ( Reserved )
> Wings & Tanks
It's drawing 17 on my 6A set. Just completed that myself.
Regards,
Chris Good.
West Bend, WI.
6A-QB #3091
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryon Timothy Maynard <bmaynard(at)communique.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice-P. Planner |
I have been using it. works great.
Larry Mac Donald wrote:
>
> I've just received a hugh post card from " Panel Planner" and since I've
> long thought of buying this, it's time to ask.
> Would anyone care to comment on the usefulness of this product ?
> Will it save me half of the panel construction time ?
> Do I really need the two hundred dollar version, or would the one hundred
> dollar version do nicely ? Since I'd have to buy a C.D. drive to use it,
> is it really worth the cost of a C.D. drive plus 1 or 2 hundred ?
> Thanks in advance.
> Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A-QB flap brace fitting |
Chris Good wrote:
>
>
> I'm just at the point of fitting the flap brace on my 6A-QB kit. It looks
> like the flush rivet on each rib to rear spar joint was put in the wrong
> place, 2nd from bottom instead of 2nd from top.
Chris;
When I did my wings I drilled out all the universal head rivets that
were in the way except the first rib after the wing walk ribs,
countersunk and bucked solid flush rivets. I found it impossible to get
a bucking bar to that one rib so I cut a clearance hole for it.
I also replaced the bottom rivet in the aileron area with a flush rivet
so the aileron gap seal would lie flush.
Marty RV-6AQ N464MS (rsvd)
Working on seat backs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primers (again) |
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
> We used DEFT primer on a Glastar that I helped build. Your friend is
> correct.
> This primer is pretty much bullet proof. It's the most durable primer that
> I've used but is kind of a pain to mix. It is a three part primer with one
> part being water. One of the components is very thick, almost paste like
> which makes blending a pain. You mix the two components together and then
> thin with water. I wouldn't necessarily say that this primer is healthier
> just because it has water. I use a mask or fresh air system for all
> spraying. As I said on the list a few years back: "Hobby Air system,
> $350----lung transplant, $100,000."
We're using Deft on our RV-6A. It's a two-part epoxy primer, with water
used
as a reducer. It's easy to mix, much easier to clean up the gun (use
lots of
water), and as Bob said - bulletproof, really really really strong. I
use
a respirator that is safe for isocyanates, and that's a requirement for
being around un-cured Deft.
It's imperative that the surface be totally dressed with scotchbrite.
We
tested a few pieces and found that etching with alumi-prep alone wasn't
enough to keep the primer from coming off in flakes if it was scratched.
If it has a good mechanical bond, like with a surface that has been
dressed with scotchbrite, then it can't be scratched off, or riveted off
or hammered off, or any of the other things that have we've abraded the
surface with. MEK won't touch it once it's cured.
--------
Rob Rimbold
rimbold(at)ntr.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Drain Thread Sealant? |
> Installing the brass tank drains into the aluminum threaded unit that holds
> it, do I need to use any sealant of any kind, or just thread it in? The plans
> show it threaded all the way in against the aluminum, or should it only be
> turned in until tight?
> Thanks.
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 #544
I used Permatex gasket sealant, same stuff as I used to seal the fuel
pickup opening gasket. That however was before I learned about
Loctite 567 Master Pipe Sealant which seals my brake fittings.
Be guided by the torque, not the distance. Tight but not too tight.
I claim no guru status here. Check with others.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 tailwheel on, main gear happening
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ferdfly <Ferdfly(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heres a source of used Lycomings |
<< National Aircraft Salvage (Long Beach, Ca), regularly gets Lycs from
wrecked and salvage airplanes and sells them quite reasonable. >>
Bill and all, A friend of mine bought an engine from these guys and it turned
out to be JUNK. I bought a new engine from Vans and spent less money.You all
be carefull out there.
Fred LaForge RV-4 trial fitting exhaust system today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W B Ward <WBWard(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heres a source of used Lycomings |
<< National Aircraft Salvage (Long Beach, Ca), regularly gets Lycs from
wrecked and salvage airplanes and sells them quite reasonable. >>
Thanks a lot. That was a very useful bit of information, and I appreciate it.
I've filed it away for future use.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A-QB flap brace fitting |
I had this problem as I recall. Let's see, I *think* only one wing had the
problem, but I did "b" below.
James
RV6A-QB ... Electric Trim
>
> I'm just at the point of fitting the flap brace on my 6A-QB kit. It
looks
> like the flush rivet on each rib to rear spar joint was put in the wrong
> place, 2nd from bottom instead of 2nd from top. So the flap brace sits
on
> universal rivet heads on the rear spar. I thought at first that I must
> have the brace the wrong way up, but it is correctly positioned between
the
> edge of the bottom wing skin & the rear spar.
>
> I could:
> a) Drill out the universal rivets & pop rivet through the flap brace
spar
> & rib.
> b) Cut clearance holes in the flap brace for the universal heads & pop
> rivet either side.
> c) Ignore the interference & just pop rivet the brace down.
>
> None of these options sounds great! Has anyone else faced these
problems?
>
> I noticed in the wing bulding section of the preview plans that it says
the
> offending rivets MAY be flush, as though there's some alternative method.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A-QB flap brace fitting |
> I could:
> a) Drill out the universal rivets & pop rivet through the flap brace spar
> & rib.
> b) Cut clearance holes in the flap brace for the universal heads & pop
> rivet either side.
> c) Ignore the interference & just pop rivet the brace down.
>
>
Chris,
For your flap brace I would probably drill out the offending round head rivets
and
use LP4-3 rivets in their place to attach the flap brace. For the aileron gap seal
I would probably do the same, but cutting rivet release holes would be acceptable
as this is not a structural part. Big plus is that no one will see it.
The alternative to the flush head rivets in the flap brace area is to leave the
universal heads out until fitting the brace and then rivet the brace, spar and
rib
with one universal head.
Hopes this helps
Gary Zilik
RV-6A Skinning fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
<< Does anyone have any opinions on why I got those speeds? >>
Micheal,
Its simple. You are way under pitched. The reasons why it came
under pitched could be many. Like I said before pitch doesent necessarily mean
anything. Each prop manufactor measures differently,and some prop makers
wont get the same performance out of two props the same pitch and length. He
now has a better idea what you need and should be able to fix you up right on
the next try.
Since we are on the subject I would like to say that I had the opportunity to
fly an RV3 the other day with a sensenich fixed pitch prop. The performance
was wonderfull the climb was good and the cruise speed was great. The only
thing I didnt like was the continuous vibration that I felt. The prop had been
balanced but still felt rough compared to the wood props I am used to. Like
anything else associated with our little bullets It all comes down to choices,
what you like about one more than the other. Cost, weight, smoothness, rain
handling, ability to deliver correct pitch the first time are some of the
factors that deterimne choice. I still like wood! ;)
Ryan Bendure
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
>
>I got my new Sterba prop yesterday. It is a 68x72. Cruise 130 mph at 2500
>rpm. 160 mph at 2900 rpm. It would probably go to 3000 rpm if I let it.
>It climbed great. This is on a 150 hp rv-4. I spoke to Mr Sterba last
>night. He said he didn't understand what happened but is going to make me a
>new one with a lot more pitch, possibly a 68x82. I don't try to second
>guess these prop makers because I know they know a lot more about making
>props than I do. Does anyone have any opinions on why I got those speeds?
>It was at 1000 feet, using gps, 2 direction averaged. Michael
Michael,
Bad things happen if you rev these engines over 2700rpm. I know. In June of
last year I sucked and intake valve into the my engine and ended up in a
soybean field. I was at 2900 rpm and reducing power when it happened. I did
a lot of research after the fact. The truth is do not run these engines over
the rated speeds, period!
Tom Martin
sold the RV4, HR2 flying in June
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Need info on flaring. The aviation tool catalogs all list flaring tools as
37 degrees. Local tool suppliers don't seem to have any info on the
flaring tools as to what degree flare is being applied. The ones in the
catalogs seem very expensive to the ones I can buy locally. What is the
differance? Is it the degree of the flare? Are all aviation connections @
37 degrees?
Bill Pagan
-8A wings & stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvmils <Rvmils(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Financing for RV's |
I'm looking at financing 1/2 the cost.
Kurt...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbirdman <Rvbirdman(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice-P. Planner |
Regarding planning your panel layout: I fit my panel in my RV-6 completely,
then removed it and used cardstock templates I made to arrange the layout
using a Sharpie pen. To change layout I just wiped with thinner and re-drew.
Then I used a fly cutter to cut all inst. holes. Result was great, cost nil.
Just be aware of clearence required for the two "ribs" behind the panel, and
the intrusion of the tip up canopy frame when closed, if that is your canopy
style, ( items installed too near top of panel will be hit by frame). Also
know depth of your instruments before final layout.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6 N827GB
Ready to paint and fly this spring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbirdman <Rvbirdman(at)aol.com> |
You need a 37 degree flareing tool for aircraft use. The local ones are 45
degree for automotive use. Either pay the long price or see if you can borrow
one from local source, ie: friend, local EAA chapter, friendly A/P, etc. Good
luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
pagan wrote:
>
>
> Need info on flaring. The aviation tool catalogs all list flaring tools as
> 37 degrees. Local tool suppliers don't seem to have any info on the
> flaring tools as to what degree flare is being applied. The ones in the
> catalogs seem very expensive to the ones I can buy locally. What is the
> differance? Is it the degree of the flare? Are all aviation connections @
> 37 degrees?
>
> Bill Pagan
Bill: Aviation fittings are flared at 37 degrees. Your local cheap
flaring tools are flared to 45 degrees. The reason for the difference is
that we use aluminum tubing for aviation applications and the aluminum
has a tendency to crack if flared too much. This is a bad thing at
altitude when the line is carrying a combustable fluid. Auto
applications can flare more as the metal of choice is steel. Another
difference betwwen auto and aircraft is that auto applications double
flair (start the flare at twice the distance from the end of the tube
with a die until the tube has a bulb on it and then by removing the die
the tube is bent back in on itself) Aircraft flairing is only done to a
single flare as the aluminum cannot be bent to that extreme without
cracking. Don't over torque the fitting or the tube can also be ruined
and always use a fuel lube to lubricate and seal the fitting.
The bottom line is to spend a little extra and get the right tool. Do
the job right and you will minimize the grief you might cause your self.
Happy building.
Doug Murray RV-6
Sunny Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
>Need info on flaring. The aviation tool catalogs all list flaring tools as
>37 degrees. Local tool suppliers don't seem to have any info on the
>flaring tools as to what degree flare is being applied. The ones in the
>catalogs seem very expensive to the ones I can buy locally. What is the
>differance? Is it the degree of the flare? Are all aviation connections @
>37 degrees?
>Bill Pagan
>-8A wings & stuff
Most likely all the "local" ones you find are automotive type with 45
degree flare. The pretty red and blue anodized "AN" fittings are 37
degree, and *WILL* leak profusely if mated to a 45 degree flare. As for
the cost disparity, its just like everything else that says "Aircraft" on
it...
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
My IA uses Deft primer completely and one trick he's taught me is that
normal alcohol will cut it easier and mix easier than will straight water.
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)JUNO.COM (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
><< Does anyone have any opinions on why I got those speeds? >>
>Micheal,
> Its simple. You are way under pitched.
This is a very likely possibility, but before you do anything drastic you
need to verify a couple things.
If you are getting a new prop. I assume you maybe weren't happy with the
other one?
You need to verify that your tach. is reading correctly. (They often
don't; but you may have already done this)
Another is evaluate your airplane against the average RV-4 and let your
prop maker use this info to determine a prop. for your airplane.
One of the problems with fitting props to RV's is that they are all made
by a different mfr. As a result there are big differences in what final
cruise performance each can attain (assuming you put the exact same
engine installation / HP output in each). As a result each one would
need a little different prop (that's why you cant call up a certain prop.
maker and order a such and such pitch for your RV-4 just because you know
that it worked perfectly on 3 other RV-4's.
You may have a very cleanly finished RV-4 and/or a strong 150 HP
engine... or the prop. maker might have missed it by a little more that
is typical.
Scott McDaniels RV-6A N64SD 560+ Hrs. Finally Sold!
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Robbins" <robm(at)am2.com> |
I've been running a Sterba 68x68 on my 150 RV-4. The numbers I get are more
like 155 mph indicated@2,500 rpm low altitude. There must be some
inconsistency in pitch or blade shape changes. I bought this prop in
'91after a great deal of discussion with Ed Sterba. I was very pleased in
my dealing with Ed and the prop performed exactly as he said it would. I
deem it a worthy comprimise for climb and cruise performance - ideal for the
way I use my airplane.
>
>I got my new Sterba prop yesterday. It is a 68x72. Cruise 130 mph at 2500
>rpm. 160 mph at 2900 rpm. It would probably go to 3000 rpm if I let it.
>It climbed great. This is on a 150 hp rv-4. I spoke to Mr Sterba last
>night. He said he didn't understand what happened but is going to make me
a
>new one with a lot more pitch, possibly a 68x82. I don't try to second
>guess these prop makers because I know they know a lot more about making
>props than I do. Does anyone have any opinions on why I got those speeds?
>It was at 1000 feet, using gps, 2 direction averaged. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Static and Pitot location? |
> >>
> >>Where did you mount your pitot/static tube? Inquiring must must
> >>know, because we must match that location if we hope to also the same
> >>accuracy you got.
> >>
> >>There are several versions of the Piper "blade type" pitot/static
> >>tube, all with different angles on the bottom where the static port
> >>is. Different type aircraft need different angles on the bottom to
> >>get the lowest position error. Do you know what model aircraft your
> >>tube came from, or what its part number is?
> >>
> >>Take care,
> >>
> >>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators &
> >>wings)
> >>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
> >>Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
> >>Transport Canada
> >>Ottawa, Canada
>
> >>
> >>>Randy:
> >>>
> >>>I am using a Piper "blade type" pitot / static tube on my RV-6. It is
> >>>very accurate in altitude and airspeed. Verified by test, GPS and
> >>>other aircraft.
>
You might want to try my approach. I installed a $26 Piper used blade on my 6A,
and mounted it just aft of the main spar, and outbourd of the inspection plate
on
the left wing. Since I had mixed reports on the static source, I elected early
on to invest twenty bucks on Vans static system and try both systems and
compare! Weight cost is also very small. It probably doesn't matter which blade
you use.
My intuition liked the Vans fuselage system better so I went with it first.
The results were so good I still haven't gotten around to trying the blade static
stytem. My stall speeds are right on the money and the error is 2 MPH high
(optimistic) at high speeds around 200. Thsi is better than anyone elses I have
been able to verify.
I would be the first to agree that this kind of accuracy is not necessary, but
when you can get rugged cheap, light weight, and easy to install why not do it?
This is something you need to do before you close up the fuselage.
If I had known I would like it so well, I would have gone with Cleaveland's
system.
D Walsh RV-6A 170 Hours. Tires getting smooth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Southern California, Chino Airport, April 18-19, 1998 in Hal Woodruff's
hangar.
Check <http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html> for directions to Hal's
hanger and some motels in the area. THIS IS A GO PROGRAM - we're now taking
reservations. Check the seminars page for additional programs offered this
year. Can we do one in your neighborhood?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR <JRWillJR(at)aol.com> |
I have seen people flare with an auto tool--they do not fully flare and they
are getting a seal with the 37 degree fittings. I, however, recommend you use
the proper tool and follow the instructions. The tube should be left about 1/4
in. above the block. Do not squeeze into the bell. Use grease to lube when
flaring and beburr the tube in and out before flaring. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
pagan wrote:
>
>
> Need info on flaring. The aviation tool catalogs all list flaring tools as
> 37 degrees. Local tool suppliers don't seem to have any info on the
> flaring tools as to what degree flare is being applied. The ones in the
> catalogs seem very expensive to the ones I can buy locally. What is the
> differance? Is it the degree of the flare? Are all aviation connections @
> 37 degrees?
>
> Bill Pagan
> -8A wings & stuff
Hello Bill;
Most industrial distributors that stock industrial hydraulics have all
the 37 degree fittings and flare equipment. I believe Parker is one
such company that has country wide distributors. They also stock
industrial fittings of all kinds in steel, alum, brass, and in some
cases stainless. Their catalog will also help you learn the fitting
lingo and make it easy to pick out the right one. All their equipment
and fittings are a lot cheaper than those with the word aircraft on
them.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
On 21 Mar 98 at 8:05, pagan wrote:
> Need info on flaring. The aviation tool catalogs all list flaring
> tools as 37 degrees. Local tool suppliers don't seem to have any
> info on the flaring tools as to what degree flare is being applied.
> The ones in the catalogs seem very expensive to the ones I can buy
> locally. What is the differance? Is it the degree of the flare?
> Are all aviation connections @ 37 degrees?
I've found that 37 degrees is the standard for all aircraft AN
fittings that require you to flare a tube. Bengelis and all others
in the know say that one SHOULD NOT use automotive flaring tools
(wrong angle, won't fit right, tube will break, airplane crashes,
people die). I recommend you get a flaring tool that will go down to
1/8" so you can flare your primer lines. The largest I've had to
flare so far is the 3/8" O.D. fuel lines. I bought the Rolo Flare
that Avery sells. Works pretty well. $70 isn't couch change, but
the tool is well made, and I've found I use it frequently.
Tim
----------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Tom,
I did the same thing about six years ago and I'm interested to know if you
had
leaned your engine prier to running full throttle (2700) and if you backed out
of
the throttle slowly or quickly.
When I lost my valve, I had been running at 65% and leaned and then went
to
full throttle without going to full rich. Also I best remember backing off the
throttle
quickly. ( old Harley people say you suck cold air back up the exhaust when you
do that.) I've run my engine full throttle plenty of times since then but I
use full
rich and back out slowly, haven't had any trouble either.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
<v03130300b13754266969@[209.195.64.90]>
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Static and Pitot location? |
Denis,
You make a very good point. The vast majority of the error in a
pitot static system is due to position error on the static source,
which is greatly affected by location. The position error of the
pitot source is pretty much negligible, as long as the probe is
roughly pointed into the local airflow, is well clear of propwash,
and is not right behind some obstruction. So, it doesn't matter much
what pitot tube you use, or where you put it. Obviously, the pitot
tube should be heated if you are planning on IFR above the freezing
level.
Van's choice of location for the static source seems to work, so why
mess with it? Unheated aft fuselage static sources are used on lots
of aircraft, and they are almost immune from icing problems. As long
as you have an alternate static source, you are covered for icing
problems anyway.
I was planning on a pitot static tube, now I think I will use Van's
fuselage location for the static source.
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators & wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
>
>> >>
>> >>Where did you mount your pitot/static tube? Inquiring must must
>> >>know, because we must match that location if we hope to also the same
>> >>accuracy you got.
>> >>
>> >>Take care,
>> >>
>> >>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators &
>>
>> >>
>> >>>Randy:
>> >>>
>> >>>I am using a Piper "blade type" pitot / static tube on my RV-6. It is
>> >>>very accurate in altitude and airspeed. Verified by test, GPS and
>> >>>other aircraft.
>>
>
>You might want to try my approach. I installed a $26 Piper used
>blade on my 6A,
>and mounted it just aft of the main spar, and outbourd of the
>inspection plate on
>the left wing. Since I had mixed reports on the static source, I
>elected early
>on to invest twenty bucks on Vans static system and try both systems and
>compare! Weight cost is also very small. It probably doesn't
>matter which blade
>you use.
>
>My intuition liked the Vans fuselage system better so I went with it first.
>
>The results were so good I still haven't gotten around to trying the
>blade static
>stytem. My stall speeds are right on the money and the error is 2 MPH high
>(optimistic) at high speeds around 200. Thsi is better than anyone
>elses I have
>been able to verify.
>
>I would be the first to agree that this kind of accuracy is not necessary, but
>when you can get rugged cheap, light weight, and easy to install why
>not do it?
>This is something you need to do before you close up the fuselage.
>
>If I had known I would like it so well, I would have gone with Cleaveland's
>system.
>
>D Walsh RV-6A 170 Hours. Tires getting smooth.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
I have an AutoCAD R14 drawing of my RV-6 panel, which was accurate
enough to position all my instruments for CNC machining. I had the
instrument panel holes cut out on a 2 axis Bridgeport milling machine.
It sure was neat to watch the machine bore out all of the big holes and
drill the mounting holes, all in about 1.5 hours, and it did everything
with .001 accuracy. If anyone would like this drawing please respond to
me off-list.
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Network Consultant, MCSE
ImageMax, Inc.
Carmel, IN
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I had the separator on my 150 hp RV-6 for a couple of hundred hours. I
> then removed it because I needed the location on my firewall for
> installation of the module for the Rose electronic ignition. I now route
> the breather straight to the exhaust pipe. After 150-200 hours, I've
> noticed no difference in the amount of gunk on the belly of the aircraft
> and, based on this experience, would not install a separator. It's
> something that is easily retrofitted (if space is allowed) if you feel you
> need one.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 405 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
Bob
How did you attach the breather line to the exhaust pipe?
I have regular automotive heater hose coming off the engine,
I'm not sure what would be the best way to "dump" it onto
the exhaust pipe.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
Fiberglass sucks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
Sam,
I tried the Address you gave me, but came up "NOT FOUND"
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
You need an aviation flaring tool and can't get by without one.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Riveting side skins to upside down RV-6A
-----Original Message-----Need info on flaring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
> Bill: Aviation fittings are flared at 37 degrees. Your local cheap
> flaring tools are flared to 45 degrees.
TRUE
The reason for the difference is
> that we use aluminum tubing for aviation applications and the aluminum
> has a tendency to crack if flared too much.
NOT TRUE.
There are different types of aluminum alloys and many more differences
in treatments. Some are brittle (i.e. 2024-T6) and some are very soft
(i.e. 3003-0). The difference of a few more or less degrees in flare is
insignificant as far as cracking goes assuming you are flaring a
suitable alloy-treatment. The reason AN flares are 37 deg is simply that
the AN standard specs were written that way. I'm sure there must have
been SOME reason -but it wasn't cracking. There are also a zillion
different flavors of steel for that matter -and some are EXTREMELY
brittle.
Another
> difference betwwen auto and aircraft is that auto applications double
> flair (start the flare at twice the distance from the end of the tube
> with a die until the tube has a bulb on it and then by removing the die
> the tube is bent back in on itself) Aircraft flairing is only done to a
> single flare as the aluminum cannot be bent to that extreme without
> cracking.
again, NOT TRUE.
Double flares are quite common on aircraft. In fact almost EVERY tube
I've ever seen that came from Bell Helicopter is double flared.
>Don't over torque the fitting or the tube can also be ruined
Good advice.
> and always use a fuel lube to lubricate and seal the fitting.
This can't hurt (I do it on occaision), but the flare should seal dry
with no need for anything else, if it doesn't it ain't airworthy.
> The bottom line is to spend a little extra and get the right tool.
Good advice.
You guys aren't gonna believe this, but the ONLY tool I've ever gotten
from (gasp!) ATS and actually liked is a flaring tool (single flare only
-even does 1/8"). It is an EXACT copy of a much more expensive Imperial
Eastman tool (the REAL THING -like I use at work). Works great. I won't
buy anything else from them, though...
Scott
N4ZW
A&P and a factory-trained heli mech (I see LOTSA tubes, hoses, fittings
and flares)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Installation Instructions |
I'm looking for recommendations on which instructions to follow (besides
Van's that is) on installing the canopy in a 6A. If you could include a
URL for download that would also be helpful.
G. Ornoff sells some tabs for the canopy. I know if they come from
George they must be useful but can someone that has used them enlighten
me on them.
Also, I am planning on springing for the plexi drills. Is this a good
idea? What sizes do i really need? What other special tools should I be
thinking about. Please remember that I am a ....
Poor, poor RV builder
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A, Roanoke, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MarkVN <MarkVN(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Engine Hookup Hardware |
I have not been following this line, so perhaps my comments are not fitting.
Air/oil separators are useful when you have a high amount of oil in the
crancase vapor air. On my cessna 180 I have one because I use a wet vaccum
pump. I tried running with out one and, what a mess. Plus it used a lot of oil
that way...
Also Iam leary about venting to your exhaust as I think this is mostly
March 15, 1998 - March 21, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ek