RV-Archive.digest.vol-en
April 05, 1998 - April 13, 1998
the list.
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GARY HARVELL <harvell(at)monroeville.gulf.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do I need a new skin? |
Tony Moradian
Don't you hate it when that happens. Your first
mistake are always the hardest to get over.
That's no problem, Just use a little bond-o later.
I'll tell you thats not the first time thats happened.
RV6A
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do I need a new skin? |
A quick tip: If your dimpling a thin skinned control surface DEFINATELY
use that spring return on the C-frame. Even a light tap will make an
ugly dent.
Moe Colontonio
> >Some how I managed to be careless and punched
> a hole with the dimple dye right next to a pre-punched hole.
>
> Is the skin salvagable? Any suggestions?<
>
> Tony,
> I E-mailed a sugggestion off list that appeared on this list a few months
> back on how to fill a hole. Before you decide on fill or replace, look at
> the price of a new skin and decide if you want to spend the money for a
> hole that will be barely noticable after paint (maybe not at all depending
> on location). Structural integrity should not be a problem so the biggest
> question is do you plan on a Grand Champion? It's your money, you decide.
>
> By the way, you can avoid this promblem in the future if you use the return
> spring on the C-frame. If you don't have one, Avery will send one cheap.
> Go ahead, ask me how I know! (it was only a small dent)
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> N733JJ (reserved)
> waiting (impatiantly) for wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau) |
| Subject: | Re: M332B for RV 3 and RV 4 |
I checked out the engines and couldn't find pricing information.
Could be that it was there and I just missed it......
Paul M. Bilodeau
pbilodeau(at)att.com
732-957-6611
RV-6A Empennage
Building Horizontal Stabilizer.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do I need a new skin? |
Tony,
I did that, and worse than that, I did it twice. I e-mailed Van's with a
red-face and an open wallet, and the nice folks there told me smooth things
out as best as possible and to keep building. If you still feel terrible
about it when you've finally got the whole airplane done, you can redo the
HS.
The word to remember is "KEEP BUILDING". I get smarter each time I do
something stupid.
Nick Knobil
RV8 80549 LE
Bowdoinham, Maine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Stiffners |
.032"
Scott
N4ZW -Just sealing up a tank...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Isaac Lewis" <rv8zz(at)hotmail.com> |
Dear builder/owners,
I am looking for a new or almost new RV-4. I'm not looking for a
showpiece, but a well built aircraft that flies straight and true, and
has a VFR panel with radio, transponder and maybe a vacuum system.
Please contact me off the list at rv8zz(at)hotmail.com. or call me at (610)
668-4964.
Isaac Lewis
rv8zz(at)hotmail.com
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture '98 (was: EAA Oshkosh '98) |
> My question is: What are the best anchors to buy for the trip to
> secure the aircraft to Mother Earth?
>
Get the 'auger' type -they hold better than the spiral types. Also you
might consider welding the loop at the top shut, unless the rod mat'l is
really heavy. There are other designs out there -one using three pins
through a plate a angles -I have no experience with these, but I can't
imagine them holding any better. It's your plane -get the best. It also
helps if the guy next to you isn't trying to use wooden stakes and
'string' -happened to me one year at OSH (I'm not a big complainer but I
complained). The best tie downs in the world aren't gonna help if your
neighbor's plane ends up on top of yours cause it pulled loose. It's
handy, by the way, to have a rod of some type to use as a handle for
screwing the things into the invariably stony earth.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture '98 |
>> My question is: What are the best anchors to buy for the trip to
>> secure the aircraft to Mother Earth?
>>
>Get the 'auger' type -they hold better than the spiral types. Also you
>might consider welding the loop at the top shut, unless the rod mat'l is
>really heavy. It's handy, by the way, to have a rod of some type to
use >as a handle for screwing the things into the invariably stony earth.
Scott
Several years back at a regional EAA fly-in the local chapter had made tie
down kits that they would sell to you for $15 (it was *SEVERAL YEARS AGO*)
and after the fly in you could turn them in for a refund of $5. I liked
mine so I just kept them and felt it was well worth the $15 for 3 very
efficient tie down stakes. They had taken a steel rod about 2' long and
bent a loop in the top end for a rope leaving aboutm 18" for the stake,
then sharpened the bottom of the stake at a 45 degree straight cut off.
About 3" above the point of the stake they welded a 4" dia "washer" of
metal which had been cut from the outside to the center at an angle and
then bent to create an inclined plane which made the "auger" portion of the
tie down. With the disk welded on the shaft as a spiral, the stake will
bite into the earth and with a little pressure and several turns it will
bury itself in the earth up to the tie down ring. I use an old length of
rebar as a handle to install the tiedowns, and even in fairly rocky ground
they will install quickly. I found an excellent canvas bag to hold all
ropes, 3 stakes and the installation tool at a Miltary Surplus store.
They live in the hangar except when going X-C, then they go into the
baggage area just in case I need tiedowns at some remote airport. (Its
happened a couple times when the weather made me stop and wait. Both times
it seems that there were no convenient ropes to tie down with, and since
the weather was deteriorating and the wind was kicking up, I was *SO* glad
to have them along for the ride.
Anyone who can build an RV series could certailn build some really sharp
tiedowns in an evening or two. Give it a try.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Stiffners |
The RV6 drawing #18a calls for 3/4 x 3/4 x .032 stock for the tank
stiffeners (Man, you sure know how to give a guy a close encounter with
a heart attack!)
Sam Buchanan (just finished closing tanks....)
"The RV Journal" http;//www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Cristy Van Artsdalen wrote:
>
>
> Here's one from the stupid question department:
>
> Which set of angle do we use for the fuel tank stiffeners, the .016 or the
> .032? I'm guessing the .032. I look through the plans and in the manual
> and couldn't find anything that would tell me what to make these out of?
> Can somebody please tell me where these are called out?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 - Wings (Fuel Tank)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
> First of all, you have the most control of your airplane when the tail is on
> the ground. You may not feel the most comfortable, but the tailwheel
> steering when coupled with the rudder is more effective.
It ain't necessarily so...
Remember that BRAKES can be used for directional control as well (on
landing anyway), and they work better (as in you will save your tires
-and mabye your plane) with more weight on the mains (tail up). Also in
a crosswind you are better off with the wings at a lower angle of attack
so gusts can't pick them up (especially on landing rollout). On takeoff
rudder effectiveness is a non-issue because of propwash over the tail
(LOTSA rudder there), the problem is that transition period on landing
in a crosswind when you are going slow enough to have rudder authority
reduced to less than the effect of the crosswind (i.e. you've run out of
rudder), but are still rolling along quickly. This is worse where
someone (not me, if I can help it) has a quartering tailwind (landing
downwind in a X-wind) on landing (a BIG NO-NO Instant ground loop for
many folks...) Brakes are your ONLY savior in this case -tailwheel
steering won't always cut it. The best heavy crosswind technique in most
taildraggers is to wheel land (upwind always, of course, assuming it's
not a perfect 90 deg cross) and then keep the tail up as long as
possible while braking fairly aggressively till going really slow (taxi
speed), then drop the tail and pin the elevator back (your ailerons
should be full over also, by this point). This technique takes a certain
'feel' on the elevator -a balancing act. It's worked for me for 1000
hours in a Cessna 140 (plus other types), including landing in 52 knot
gusts (40 sustained -no kidding).
Also, if you can't do consistant wheel landings in varying conditions
you are not yet a complete taildragger pilot. PERIOD. Practice...
Practice... Practice...
Flame away -This time I KNOW I'm right. I also know I sound arrogant, so
don't bother telling me ;)
Scott
N4ZW - CFI specializing in light TD's :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Stiffners |
>
>Here's one from the stupid question department:
>
>Which set of angle do we use for the fuel tank stiffeners, the .016 or the
>.032? I'm guessing the .032. I look through the plans and in the manual
>and couldn't find anything that would tell me what to make these out of?
>Can somebody please tell me where these are called out?
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 - Wings (Fuel Tank)
>
Scott,
Use the 3/4"x3/4"x.032" 2024 T-3 aluminum angle. Dwg. 18a, far right hand
side of page appx. halfway up the page. It's a cutaway in the tank root rib
depiction. Use AN426AD3-3.5 rivets at a 1 1/4" nominal spacing.
Hope this helps.
>
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Wing Spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cristy Van Artsdalen" <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Stiffners |
>
>.032"
Great! Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | vlemasters(at)midamer.net (Vern Lemasters) |
| Subject: | Starter Relay Sticking |
Fellow Listers,
I have one more problem that I need some advice on. My starter relay stuck
in again this afternoon. That is the second time it has happened. The first
time I reasoned it away because the battery was weak when it happened and I
thought that perhaps the electromagnet didn't suck the plunger in tight
enough due to the low battery voltage and the contacts arced and welded
themselves together. I tapped on the relay and all appeared fine but of
course I replaced the relay and thought all was fine. Same thing this
afternoon except the battery was full charge. Could the auto V6 I am
running be pulling more amps for starting current than the aircraft starter
relay is designed for and that is causing the contacts to arc and stick or
what? All thoughts welcomed.
Vern Lemasters
15.1 hours on RV6A-V6 N97VL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)CompuServe.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Stiffners |
Plans page 18a end view for the RV-6A shows 3/4 X 3/4 X .032 for the fuel
tank stiffners.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6A - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RCL50 <RCL50(at)aol.com> |
Has anyone seen the RV8 Quick-Build kit?
I'm curious about the quality...are skin edges rolled? are joints primered
before riveting? Cosmetic appearance, etc.
I'm a new pilot (140hrs) & have never built an aircraft. I'm trying to
investigate the new RV8A QB kit.
Any info/opinions welcomed! Thanks!
Roy C. Lewis Jr. RCL(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder return springs - RV4 |
Fellow Listers:
I am in the process of completing the installation of the rudder pedals in
my RV-4. I see that the RV-4 does not use rudder return springs relying on
the pilot maintaining foot pressure on the rudders. My Citabria has springs
both at the rudder pedals themselves and at the rudder tail post, thus
maintaining tension on the rudder cables.
Can anyone comment on the reason for the lack of rudder return springs on
the -4. Is there any benefit for considering such an installation? Would
this improve yaw stability (I've flown in several -4s and never really
noticed any signficant yaw instabilty... not any worse than any other low
wing airplane) so maybe that is not even a factor. Your opinions?????
Doug
*******************************************
Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marhyde primer on Quickbuild |
Which Sherwin Williams primer did you use? I am using the 988 self etching
primer from them, and I love it...it dries fast, smooth and comes in spray
cans that are filled very full with the product...
Paul Besing
RV-6A
Rudder
>
>I have been using the Mar-Hyde primer on my RV6 since day one, but
because of
>the Primer Thread, I went to the local Sherman Williams & purchased 2 cans of
>there primer.
>
>Well that was a mistake - the parts I primed with good old Sherman Williams
>all
>flaked & blistered, so I cleaned them all up and re-primed with Mar-Hyde,
>never had another problem. The Mar Hyde is more money but I cant argue with
>the results.
>
>BSivori(at)AOL.COM
>N9292RV ( Reserved )
>Wings& Tanks
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F Mark40 <FMark40(at)aol.com> |
Can anyone comment on the FL406 (or FL606 for the RV6) Flap Bracket? This is
the assembly of two angles and one plate on the root end of the flaps. The
plans look like the angle is bent, but this can't be right. Is the 1/8 inch
plate to be bent? Also, where the 3/4 inch angle fits into the root rib which
is angled in at the top, it does not lay flat. Is the rib and skin to be
forced to the correct angle?
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: RV Flying Tips |
I'd have to look at mine, but, I think it is neg 4 to plus 8
g's. The tape is guaranteed for 25 g's left or right.
y behind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> |
<< Can anyone comment on the FL406 (or FL606 for the RV6) Flap Bracket? This
is
the assembly of two angles and one plate on the root end of the flaps. The
plans look like the angle is bent, but this can't be right. Is the 1/8 inch
plate to be bent? Also, where the 3/4 inch angle fits into the root rib
which
is angled in at the top, it does not lay flat. Is the rib and skin to be
forced to the correct angle >>
Mark,
The I/8 inchplate is bent. On the 6 plans, one can see that the 3/4 angle
does appear to be less than 90's by a small amount. I did not bend the angle
and it all looked ok when it was clecoed together. I am going to the hangar
now and will look at it again. Will let you know if I think it should be bent
slightly.
Bernie Kerr
6A , SE fla.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
F Mark40 wrote:
> Can anyone comment on the FL406 (or FL606 for the RV6) Flap Bracket? This is
> the assembly of two angles and one plate on the root end of the flaps. The
> plans look like the angle is bent, but this can't be right.
Mark,
I just finished making these. Yes, you bend the FL-406A angle to 88
degrees. I used soft jaws on my vice, a block of wood and a 4 pound
engineer's hammer.
>Is the 1/8 inch> plate to be bent?
No
> Also, where the 3/4 inch angle fits into the root rib which
> is angled in at the top, it does not lay flat. Is the rib and skin to be
> forced to the correct angle?
Only if you want to end up with a twisted flap! :-)
The FL-406C angle must also be bent so that it's angle matches the
angle of the inboard end of the spar. I forget the exact angle at the
moment. I think it's about 85 degrees. Place a protractor onto the spar
to get the proper angle. Bend the FL-406C till it's angle matches the
angle set on your protractor. I bent this with vice, wood & hammer,
also. It really wasn't difficult or time consuming.
I would also like to mention one "gotcha" in the Orndorff method.
Drilling and riveting the FL-406B&C assembly to the FL-406A BEFORE
riveting the FL-406C to the inboard (FL-404) rib & skin could cause a
twist here if everything doesn't lay just perfectly. Riveting the
FL-406B&C assembly to the inboard rib & skin first, THEN drilling and
riveting the FL-406A to the FL-406B (which has already been riveted to
the FL-406C) will prevent any strain on the skin & inboard rib. If there
is a small gap between the FL-406A angle and the FL-406B plate, make a
shim before riveting. Otherwise the assembly will be under strain.
Strive to make the installed distance (fore to aft) of the 1/4" hole on
the FL-406B plates identical on both flaps. This is where the control
linkage connects. Having these holes at different distances will make
rigging the flaps a headache. My RV-8 prepunched kit has a rivet hole
(for the inboard rib) in the lower skin that lines up with the reference
point for the 1/4" hole perfectly. I hope this helps. Now get your
hammer out and start singing John Henry!!! :-)
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 flaps & ailerons
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> |
<< I just finished making these. Yes, you bend the FL-406A angle to 88
degrees. I used soft jaws on my vice, a block of wood and a 4 pound
engineer's hammer. >>
Mark,
Are you more confused now? I bet over half the RV's flying did not bend
either angle!
I think my plans definitely show the "A" peice is still 90 degrees if you look
at section A-A' on drawing 17 and the "B" peice is bent. My neighbors very
nice 6A did not bend the "C" angle, but both he and I concur it should be bent
slightly to be parallel to the bottom surface. When we put a straight edge
spanwise on his flap, we can see a slight imperfection just where the 3/4 inch
angle is.
Bernie Kerr
6A SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
Yeah that what I thought too when they took the tailwheel off off the
tandem F-4 Phantom and moved it to the front!!!!
Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelli Lewis [SMTP:mikel(at)dimensional.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 1998 10:33 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8A Pix
>
>
> Great pictures of the RV-8A. Gotta admit, though, my reaction was
> similar to
> seeing a tricycle Taylorcraft or J-3 Cub. UHhhhhhhhh....... The -6A
> looked
> OK with the tail wheel in front. But there is something that doesn't
> look
> quite right when an airplane that "normally" has a tailwheel, suddenly
> has a
> nose wheel. Especially a tandem. However, it will give those not
> wanting a
> tailwheel the oportunity to have a really cool airplane. It should do
> quite
> well.
>
> Michael
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | CS4-4 rivet, accepted practice for getting smooth surface? |
What is the accepted practice to arrive at a smooth surface using CS4-4
rivets?
I have tried drilling #40, dimpling for #3 size, then drilling #30.
I find the CS4-4 head still sits a little proud from the skin surface.
Is there a better way?
Doug Gray
RV-6 empennage still!
Sydney, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Relay Sticking |
Vern, I had the same problem with a new relay from Vans, so have
several other listers. If I remember correctly, someone on the list was
compiling an inventory of relays that stuck while still new and was
going to report the results. I ordered a new one and have not had a
reoccurance in 45 hours.
chet
--
Abby Razer
Barbara Razer
Molly the Dog and
Chet Razer
razer(at)midwest.net
http://scribers.midwest.net/razer/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture '98 (was: EAA Oshkosh '98) |
>My copilot and I have already started planning our trip to Oshkosh
>with my SIX for this year. We plan on camping with the plane.
>
>My question is: What are the best anchors to buy for the trip to
>secure the aircraft to Mother Earth?
>
>Please respond off list if you do not think that this is a subject for
>the list.
>
>RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
>
>
The hardware section of Home Depot has metal, screw-in-the-ground anchors
that will work perfectly for this. They are about 20 inches long and will
be more than adequate to act as a tie-down. These stakes are usually used
for pets. Screw it into the ground, tie a rope to it and your dog can run
the radius of the length of the rope. I just purchased three of these
stakes and the necessary rope for about $10 last Saturday.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying (100 hrs in the first six months :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Shelton <k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov> |
>
>Great pictures of the RV-8A. Gotta admit, though, my reaction was similar to
>seeing a tricycle Taylorcraft or J-3 Cub. UHhhhhhhhh....... The -6A looked
>OK with the tail wheel in front. But there is something that doesn't look
-snip-
The preview plans didn't show the 3 view of the 8A. It looks MUCH BETTER
than I expected! Sure would like to see it with the wheel pants though.
Talk about a true sport plane no-worries kinda fun. Not that TD's aren't
(flame avoidance disclaimer).
I suppose it will be offered in a Quick Build??
KJ
Kevin Shelton KA4UWE aka Sparky
NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton VA
(757) 864-4470 k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov
http://members.aol.com/EAA156
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVator <RVator(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Flying Tips |
Actually the adhesive functions as the "G" meter. when you pull 4G the meter
starts to slide across the panel. You know you've reached 6g when it flys
off.
:)
Rvator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVator <RVator(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture '98 |
<< They had taken a steel rod about 2' long and
bent a loop in the top end for a rope leaving aboutm 18" for the stake,
then sharpened the bottom of the stake at a 45 degree straight cut off. >>
I believe you can buy these at Farm n Fleet or similar stores. They are what
I use and although they take more effort to place, hold very well. Be mindful
of what your neighbor is using. You don't want his airplane cartwheeling over
yours.
S
teve Schmitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJKKS502 <DJKKS502(at)aol.com> |
Roy C. Lewis Jr.
A guy in Redding CA has just picked up RV-8 QB #1 and the workmanship
appears to be great (perfect compared to mine). Looks like all areas needing
primed have been. Skin edges if they were rolled are not apparent, but they
are flat and flush, they look good!! I built a 4 from a 1989 kit and this QB
kit looks real builder friendly.
If you got the bucks, do it, you'll never regret it.
Don Simmons RV-4 N144DN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
F Mark40 wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone comment on the FL406 (or FL606 for the RV6) Flap Bracket? This is
> the assembly of two angles and one plate on the root end of the flaps. The
> plans look like the angle is bent, but this can't be right.
Mark, you are correct. The angles ARE NOT bent.
Is the 1/8 inch
> plate to be bent?
Yes, bend per the plans.
Also, where the 3/4 inch angle fits into the root rib which
> is angled in at the top, it does not lay flat. Is the rib and skin to be
> forced to the correct angle?
You will find the following photos to be helpful:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/flap_log.html
This is an area that trips up a lot of builders, so don't be bashful
about asking for clarification.
Hang in there!
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TPhilpin <TPhilpin(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture '98 (was: EAA Oshkosh '98) |
<< >My question is: What are the best anchors to buy for the trip to
>secure the aircraft to Mother Earth?
>
>RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
The hardware section of Home Depot has metal, screw-in-the-ground anchors
that will work perfectly for this. They are about 20 inches long and will
be more than adequate to act as a tie-down. These stakes are usually used
for pets.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying (100 hrs in the first six months :)
>>
Guys,
I have used these type tie downs for some time. Beware, they readily break
just below the triangle shapped handle where they have been flattened to
attach a ring and swivel. Suggest you cut the screw stake at this point and
weld a piece of bar staock for a new handle, or resection the top and bottom
with a sleeve. Otherwise count on it breaking in hard soil when you need it
the most.
Tony Philpin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Bendix/Stromberg PS-5c Carburetor |
Does anyone have any knowledge/experience in using the PS-5c carburetor on
their projects? Besides the diaphragm nightmare ($1200-1800 to update), I
only know enough to stay away from them, that's what I've been told, is
there a definite truth to that?
Rob Reece
_________________________________________
Rob Reece
InfoTech Manager,
Scorpius Range Coordinator / Liaison Engineer
Microcosm/InfoTech
c/o EMRTC
New Mexico Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
Phone: (505) 835-5716
Fax: (505) 835-5714/5680
Email: reece(at)rt66.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
charset="us-ascii"
>It ain't necessarily so...
Remember that BRAKES can be used for directional control as well (on
landing anyway),
>
Scott,
no flames here,
I agree with most of what you have said about landings. My disagreement with
you is regarding the brakes. Use of brakes during landing should very
limited and use of brakes with the tail up should never be categorically
recommended. My personal philosophy is "Brakes are for Mistakes." I don't
see them as a primary flight control, rather, a get out of trouble free
card. In some airplanes it works, in others it is an instant disaster (DC-3
with expander tubes for instance, not an RV however). I don't want to start
a thread on that either.
My post was about take off's only. For the take-off, in most single engine
airplanes, I stand by what I said.
PLEASE, I don't want to start a discussion of wheel landings vs. 3 points.
There is no simple answer to that question. The answer is always, "It
depends," on the airplane, the pilot, the runway, the wind, and how many
people are watching ;-).
Tailwinds, .
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanArtsdalen, Scott" <scott.vanartsdalen(at)lmco.com> |
| Subject: | Starter Relay Sticking |
Vern, I had the same problem with a new relay from Vans, so have
several other listers. If I remember correctly, someone on the list was
compiling an inventory of relays that stuck while still new and was
going to report the results. I ordered a new one and have not had a
reoccurance in 45 hours.
Can the relay housing be opened? If so you could burnish the contacts..
Do people still do that? :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
>What is a reasonable minimum distance for txpdr/comm antenna? Is two feet
>OK?
Finally got around to looking up the specs I got from COMANT... Here's
the poop. The instructions for all the antennas I got from COMANT (VOR, COM,
MKR) all say:
"As a general rule, this antenna should be at least one antenna length
from any other (the greater of the two lengths)."
I got a surplus Narco TXP antenna so don't know about that but I think
if you stick to that same "general guideline" you'd be fine.
In case anyone is interested in more detail, here is the mounting
locations" portion of the instructions for my COM antenna.
"Communications antennas may be mounted on top or to the underside of
the aircraft. Normally only blade or bent whip styles are mounted on
the underside since ground clearance must be considered under worst
case conditions. Remember to include the flex of the landing gear in
a hard landing at stall angle. The antenna should not be mounted
between the landing gear unless the gear is retractable and the
antenna will not be used for ground communication.
"For maximum signal strength, the length of antenna coax to the
receiver should be minimized. A ground plane is required and the
antenna base must contact the ground plane."
In addition to the above, you should use doublers when mounting, per
FAA AC43.13-1A, "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices -
Aircraft Inspection, Repair and Alteration".
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
Thanks to the quick response of Bob Skinner, I was once again off
and running this morning. I got the canopy frame pretty much in
place and ran into a problem fairly early. After getting the WD625
trimmed for fit, I eyeballed down the thing to see how it fits to the
fuselage side. Although there is just a tiny bit of adjustment needed,
I'd like to get that done. I tried using my fluting tool and quickly found
out that it doesn't get it. I'm not a machinist, so I'd rather not have to
try to make the large fluting tool. I asked the local FBO if they have a
stretcher or shrinker. No dice. Since I'm sure most of us out here
don't have access to either, what did you fellas do to get the
WD625A where you want it? In my case, the thing needs shifting
about 1/16" for a short stretch and the reverse for another short
section. It's the same on both sides. So close and yet so far. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A #22220
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
----------
> From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying Tips
> Date: Monday, April 06, 1998 12:12 PM
> >It ain't necessarily so...
> Remember that BRAKES can be used for directional control as well (on
> landing anyway),
> Scott,
> no flames here,
> My post was about take off's only. For the take-off, in most single engine
> airplanes, I stand by what I said.
> dougr(at)petroblend.com
> http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
Doug,
I forget if you sent the words of wisdom about takeoffs and keeping the
tail
on the ground as long as you can. Also there was mention about years of
training
in a T-6.
First off I'll never be convinced that keeping the tail of an RV down on
takeoff
in a crosswind or gusty conditions is correct. I once put my back under the
wing
of my RV4 and lifted it out of a groundhog hole that I fell into. When you can
do
that with a T-6, Then I'll consider the argument. Until then I'm going to keep
control with a tried and true method (for me anyway)
Jim
N444JN (flame me, burn me , make me see red)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
Hi all,
Bill Nash wrote:
>>If you want to be real fancy and fool your AI at license time, (he'll
squawk the antenna as "defective" without a ball tip, even though it
works perfectly), pick up some small beads at the craft store and
epoxy one onto the tip.<<
Without the little ball, isn't there a chance that static electricity will
think your antenna is a static wick?
Now, who has a good cheap design for a GPS antenna?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
>
>PLEASE, I don't want to start a discussion of wheel landings vs. 3 points.
OK, you're off the hook under one condition. I believe that you
mentioned that your 4 weighed 920 ( that's my fondest hope for mine ). You
also mentioned ( a while back ) that you were planning to add a vacuum
system. So, I have two questions:
1. Can you load the airplane to gross and keep it in the CG range?
A. If not, how heavy can you get in back and still be in CG?
2. Could you update us on the weight of the plane after you finish your
upgrades?
thanks in advance.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder return springs - RV4 |
Gust locks - I want them so that when parked outdoors while waiting in line for
the next available hangar at $400+ per month (an expected four year wait!), my
little bird won't get beat to hell.
Does anyone have a design for safe but effective gust locks for the RV6a?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating canopy
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/Stromberg PS-5c Carburetor |
Rob listen to what the others have said. Stay away...Before I would spend the
$1000 plus to update the boat anchor (ps5), I would contact AirFlow
Performance for one of their fuel injection systems. I believe the price to
be less than the update. EVERYONE that I know that has their system likes
it. I'll have one of theirs on my six when I start it.
Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
I have some former thinnet cable which is 50 ohm coax & marked RG58 (or is it
RG58A?). Not RG58 A/U Is the difference between these a concern? I can
afford to buy some RG58A/U but now I'm not even sure that is exactly the right
stuff and besides, I am just interested.
By the way, *EVERYTHING* I have ever bought from Radio Shack has been either
poor quality, mislabled or no bargain. I think they deal in manufacturers
rejects. For many items, if too many in a lot, such as 5 in 100 are defective
the whole lot is rejected. The manufacturer who made the lot can often find
buyers who don't care so that it isn't worth it to re-make or test each.
What are:
RG58
RG58 A/U
RG58 C/U
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
>
> Now, who has a good cheap design for a GPS antenna?
Check out http://www.lowe.co.uk/gpsant.html
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Moradian" <tonym(at)enviroaqua.com> |
mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com, Barnes_Eric(at)tandem.com,
fredboyd(at)internetMCI.com, mikeb(at)lsil.com, 70773.2700(at)CompuServe.com,
JTB520(at)aol.com, carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu, midnight(at)UDel.Edu,
hinkleyc(at)fca.gov, TOMRV4(at)aol.com, jcimino(at)epix.net, jbc1(at)ziplink.net,
vcochran(at)svip.com, pauldan(at)mindspring.com, sdixon(at)laker.net,
72000.3470(at)CompuServe.com, theredbaron(at)earthlink.net,
yogieb(at)pipeline.com, N95MF(at)aol.com, brianh(at)ns.net, jhth(at)msn.com,
AB320FLYER(at)aol.com, hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk, himsl(at)mail.ws,
| Subject: | Fw: Do I need a new skin? |
Thanks for everyone's insight regarding this silly unwanted hole on my HS
skin. It did ruin my day, but knowing that it is a common virtue does make
me feel a little better. I will try to salvage the skin with the methods
mentioned.
Tony Moradian
Empenage #80398
N100TM reserved
tmoradia(at)ix.netcom.com
--
>I feel embarassed about this one!!! Here I am all excited about finally
>riveting the skind to the HS. I start dimpling all of the holes in the
skin
>with the C-frame from averys. Some how I managed to be careless and
punched
>a hole with the dimple dye right next to a pre-punched hole.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
Date: Saturday, April 04, 1998 8:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder fit
>
>ship>.
>
>2. How do I thread the bearings into the rudder spar without damaging
>them?
>
Glenn,
I made a tool from a length of 1/2" (inside) black pipe (water pipe would
work). Drill a 3/8" hole through it about a half inch from an end, then
using a hack saw, form a slot by making two lengthwise cuts to the holes.
File, debur and polish. Mine is about 12 inches long and I can get all the
torque I need without using other tools but if torque is an issue, drill
another hole in the opposite end and insert a t-handle.
Tom -6 fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cristy Van Artsdalen" <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Stiffners |
>> From: Sam Buchanan[SMTP:SBUC(at)TRAVELLER.COM]
>> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 1998 4:27:17 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Stiffners
>> Auto forwarded by a Rule
>>
>
>The RV6 drawing #18a calls for 3/4 x 3/4 x .032 stock for the tank
>stiffeners (Man, you sure know how to give a guy a close encounter with
>a heart attack!)
Good for the circulation! :-)
Seriously, as I already told Jon, I have an older set of plans which does
not have dwg 18a! Maybe I'll find the info somewhere in the 18 years of the
RVator (when it arrives).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/Stromberg PS-5c Carburetor |
<< Does anyone have any knowledge/experience in using the PS-5c carburetor on
their projects? Besides the diaphragm nightmare ($1200-1800 to update), I
only know enough to stay away from them, that's what I've been told, is
there a definite truth to that?
Rob Reece >>
Bob:
The system from Airflow is sooooo smooth. I haven't touched the thing from
initial set-up (225 hrs). Why even have one of those difficult to keep tuned
PS5's when the price for a good F I System is so close?
Of course, a carb works good for pos G.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
>Without the little ball, isn't there a chance that static electricity will
>think your antenna is a static wick?
sure . . . any narrow cross-section, sharp edged protrusion from
the airframe will tend to concentrate p-static charges and provide
a jumping off point for the corona. the transponder itself is
not especially vulnerable to the noise but if you're flying through
precip and the reply light seems to be on much more than normal or
if ATC complains about intermittant transponder, it might be fixed
by adding a METAL ball . . .
>Now, who has a good cheap design for a GPS antenna?
there have been several designs published in ham magazines over
the past 5 years or so . . i think i downloaded one design from
an amtature radio interest site about two years ago. wasn't able
to put my hands on it quickly. you might consider a web-search.
the best antennas will be "active" meaning that they have
a low noise amplifier built into the antenna assembly. there's
a company on the web called Downeast Microwave that might be
persuaded to develop/offer a low cost active antenna.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM (scott fink) |
| Subject: | Re: Do I need a new skin? |
--IMA.Boundary.669409198
Tony,
I did the exact same thing, don't get discouraged! I did replace the
skin since my hole was on the top side and I didn't want it to show,
but people who replied to me said that you could either put a rivit in
it (mine was too close to the real hole and would have intefered with
the rib flange) or undimple it, cut the head off of a rivit and
squeeze it into the hole (don't know if this would not fall out
eventually).
Welcome to the club, but don't let it deter you from continuing, we
all make mistakes (sometimes like this one, the same one). This is
one of the reasons I use the "pop rivit dimple set" from Avery's a
lot.
Best regards, and keep on,
Scott Fink
RV6, left wing skins drilled to skeleton, working on fuel tank
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Do I need a new skin?
Date: 4/5/98 11:07 AM
I feel embarassed about this one!!! Here I am all excited about finally
riveting the skind to the HS. I start dimpling all of the holes in the skin
with the C-frame from averys. Some how I managed to be careless and punched
a hole with the dimple dye right next to a pre-punched hole.
Is the skin salvagable? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tony Moradian
Empenage #80398
N100TM reserved
tmoradia(at)ix.netcom.com
--IMA.Boundary.669409198
SMTP
-0700
(firewall-user@prometheus-gate.Microchip.COM [198.175.253.129]) by
titan.Microchip.COM (8.6.12/8.6.12) with SMTP id NAA16853 for
via smap (3.2)
From: "Tony Moradian" <tonym(at)enviroaqua.com>
philip.arter(at)MCI2000.com, mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com,
Barnes_Eric(at)tandem.com, fredboyd(at)internetMCI.com, mikeb(at)lsil.com,
70773.2700(at)CompuServe.com, JTB520(at)aol.com, carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu,
midnight(at)UDel.Edu, hinkleyc(at)fca.gov, TOMRV4(at)aol.com, jcimino(at)epix.net,
jbc1(at)ziplink.net, vcochran(at)svip.com, pauldan(at)mindspring.com,
sdixon(at)laker.net, 72000.3470(at)CompuServe.com, theredbaron(at)earthlink.net,
yogieb(at)pipeline.com, N95MF(at)aol.com, brianh(at)ns.net, jhth(at)msn.com,
AB320FLYER(at)aol.com, hatters(at)overvne.demon.co.uk, himsl(at)mail.ws
Subject: RV-List: Do I need a new skin?
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 11:07:25 -0700
--IMA.Boundary.669409198--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
>RG58
50 Ohm Coax, 20AWG solid Center conductor, single layer tinned overbraid
>RG58 A/U
50 Ohm coax, 20AWG (19 strands x .0071"), single layer tinned overbraid
>
>RG58 C/U
Brief data sheets I have at home don't show the difference between a/u and
c/u . . . I'll check the Mil-C-17 slash sheets at Raytheon tomorrow.
Performance wise, all of these cables are equivalent. The solid strand
center conductor is a little easier to work with while crimping on
connectors. The stranded is more resistant to center conductor cold-flow
through insulation when making sharp bends . . .
By the way ANYBODY can claim to make RG-58 coax but unless it's a name
brand like Times, Alpha, Belden, etc. it can be confirmed to be a good
cable if it has a "QPL" number called out on the spool lable.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
Does anyone know where I can find a certain power tool mounting table
called a " ShopTender" ? It's a metal frame 24"X24" or 24"X30".
Does not come with a top or lower shelf that I know of.
Harbor freight stopped carrying them and I can't find one
locally.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WstcttPrss <WstcttPrss(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A couple more picky questions |
In a message dated 4/3/98 7:30:47 PM, you wrote:
<>
Ed-
Try Avery's Cleco's
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)CompuServe.com> |
Pleeze someone, state a price and approximate waiting time for the RV6 QB.
Wannabeee LKD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Relay Sticking |
<< I had the same problem with a new relay from Vans, so have
several other listers. If I remember correctly, someone on the list was
compiling an inventory of relays that stuck while still new and was
going to report the results. I ordered a new one and have not had a
reoccurance in 45 hours. >>
I am the guy who was going to report back. Here is what I found. There were
three reports of alledged starter contactor failure sent to me. The only
thing they had in common was that they were on airplanes. They were
manufactured by:
Cole-Hersee, White-Rogers and Stancor. They were all different P/Ns and
different current ratings. Bob Nuckolls subsequent comment about there being
slim chance of a common thread was right IMO.
Now it's possible that all three of these failed contactors were defective in
some way, but I would like to suggest that something more basic is going on
here. Is it possible that they are being damaged during installation.
It is possible that tightening the nuts on the high power terminals is turning
the internal contact surfaces such that the internal disc contact faying
surface no longer meets coplaner surfaces. This might set up a condition
whereby a concentrated arcing begins to erode a notch a the points of contact.
A lazy battery might also cause sluggish (no pun intended) motion in the
contactor, promoting more prolonged arcing during separation. IMO, either or
both of these mechanisms could be at fault.
So, buy whatever contactor you will, mount it so that it will not close due to
g forces (I like the sideways mounting), watch the nut tightening torque, keep
your battery in good shape and hope for the best. If you learn anything more
from someone smarter or better connected than me, be sure to let us know.
-GV RV-6A N1GV
(28.4 hrs TTAE and free at last, free at last, GGAM we are free at last)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do I need a new skin? |
>The word to remember is "KEEP BUILDING". I get smarter each
>time I do something stupid.
I agree; but, can you explain why we continue to do stupid things as
we get smarter? :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A #22220 (Starting canopy frame and about to register #22220)
Gee, I dunno. Skill, I guess.
Nick Knobil
RV8 # 80549 LE
Bowdoinham, Maine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Sam, Bernie & Mark,
I don't mean to step on anyone's toes but:
My RV-8 plans show the angles being bent, not the plate. As my prints
are only 2 months old, I suspect they are quite a bit more up to date
than yours. (I could be wrong though) This may be something that has
been changed or "improved" since you received your plans.
I suppose bending the FL-406B plate 2 degees where it meets the FL-406A
would also be acceptable. You must bend the FL-406C though, or you will
have not have a smooth lower skin in that area.
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> F Mark40 wrote:
> >
> >
> > Can anyone comment on the FL406 (or FL606 for the RV6) Flap Bracket? This
is
> > the assembly of two angles and one plate on the root end of the flaps. The
> > plans look like the angle is bent, but this can't be right.
>
> Mark, you are correct. The angles ARE NOT bent.
>
> Is the 1/8 inch
> > plate to be bent?
>
> Yes, bend per the plans.
>
> Also, where the 3/4 inch angle fits into the root rib which
> > is angled in at the top, it does not lay flat. Is the rib and skin to be
> > forced to the correct angle?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com wrote:
> >Now, who has a good cheap design for a GPS antenna?
My GPS page <http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/gps.htm> has links to
various GPS & mapping resources.
Unfortunately our net.link is flakey right now, so I can't find which
one has this stuff. And anyway, it might be difficult for RV-listers
to get to my page.
I believe that <http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter/> and
<http://rampages.onramp.net/~gcraze/> would be good places to start.
Another good place to try would be the sci.geo.satellite-nav newsgroup
-- it's almost all GPS discussion, including homebrew receivers and
antennae.
Frank.
[PS: Anyone who emailed me last week expecting a reply and didn't get
one, could you try again... I know that some of my mail has been lost
:-(]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
> Not RG58 A/U Is the difference between these a concern? I can
> afford to buy some RG58A/U but now I'm not even sure that is exactly the right
> stuff and besides, I am just interested.
>
>
> What are:
>
> RG58
I don't know exactly what this cable is.
> RG58 A/U
This is 50 ohm coax cable with stranded center conductor, usually #22 AWG
> RG58 C/U
This cable is exactly like RG58 A/U except it has a noncontaminating vinel
jacket. this cable is what was reccommended by the local avionics shop for my com
coax. It cost me 16 cents per foot.
If a King KT76-C Transponder is used it requires RG142 coax. It cost me $4.14
per foot. If a King KT76-A is used they told me that RG58 C/U would be sufficient.
Carroll, RV-4, N311CB Reserved.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernie Amadio" <e_amadio(at)vaxxine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder return springs - RV4 |
Hal:
Take a look in your old From The Ground Up, somwhere in the airmanship
section there are illustrations of the correct way to stake out a
taildragger. They show long wooden ( I assume) slats secured at both ends
with carriage bolts and wing nuts. I finaly got off my duff and made a set
for my 170 this year out of 3/8" plywood about 4" wide and just long enough
to clear the stb and rudder about half way down. I put a piece of rubber
fuel line over the bolt between the slats to protect the paint and act as a
spring washer to maintain tension on the wing nut. I made sure that when it
was tightened up the slats were directly over a rib in the stab to prevent
deforming the skin. It worked like a charm, the rudder was locked up, it
was quick cheap and easy to make, and goes on and off in seconds. The only
negatives I"ve found so far are that it wont fit into the plane to take on
a trip, and it looks like hell ( even with my premium ARMOR COAT paint job.
Maybe primer would have helped ?) .
Any way, I can vouch for its serviceability since it did the job in
50 MPH 90 deg.cross winds this winter. You may find that it is all the
rudder lock you ever need. If not, it will certainly get the job done until
you find something more to your liking without investing huge amounts of
time or money for a temporary solution.
Ernie Amadio
Cessna 170-B C-FJJK
RV6 Someday after I sell the 170
e_amadio(at)vaxxine.com
----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
There is a prepunched hole in the bottom inboard right wing skin on the -8
for a ventilation line. Do I need to buy and install a fitting for this
hole before I close the wing or is this item included in the fuselage or
finish kits. If I need to purchase this item how about some input on what
my options are.
Thanks
Bill Pagan
-8A (really glad to see it flying)
workin on the 2nd leading edge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Relay Sticking |
>They were manufactured by:
>Cole-Hersee, White-Rogers and Stancor. They were all different P/Ns and
>different current ratings. Bob Nuckolls subsequent comment about there being
>slim chance of a common thread was right IMO.
>Now it's possible that all three of these failed contactors were defective in
>some way, but I would like to suggest that something more basic is going on
>here. Is it possible that they are being damaged during installation.
>It is possible that tightening the nuts on the high power terminals is
turning
>the internal contact surfaces such that the internal disc contact faying
>surface no longer meets coplaner surfaces.
I believe White-Rogers has purchased Stancor (which was RBM controls
when I first saw these contactors on the Cessna's in the 60s. So,
I think were talking about one and the same style of part. . .
> . . . . This might set up a condition
>whereby a concentrated arcing begins to erode a notch a the points of
contact.
I've identified this as a common problem in some work we did at
Cessna way back when . . . I think later designs on the RBM/Stancor/W-R
part may have reduced the possibility but it's still VERY important
to put a wrench on the nut next to the housing and keep it from turning
while tightening the upper nut.
>A lazy battery might also cause sluggish (no pun intended) motion in the
>contactor, promoting more prolonged arcing during separation. IMO, either or
>both of these mechanisms could be at fault.
This is very another strong contributor to sticking when internal contact
PRESSURES are low . . . an inherent defeciency of the RBM/Stancor/W-R
design . . . even when purchased in the intermittant duty versions. Oh
yeah, did you know they came in two flavors? Continuous duty (battery
contactors) and intermittant duty (starter contactors). If one
inadvertently installs a continuous duty device as the starter
contactor, the probability of sticking goes up.
>So, buy whatever contactor you will, mount it so that it will not close
due to
>g forces (I like the sideways mounting), watch the nut tightening torque,
keep
>your battery in good shape and hope for the best. If you learn anything more
>from someone smarter or better connected than me, be sure to let us know.
You're on target Gary. We'll be offering a pair of contactors from
our website catalog as soon as I can get busy and split up our
catalog page into multiple pages (my .html editor barfs on files
bigger than 25K!). You can get a peek at them at
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/1.jpg> for the battery and . . .
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/2.jpg> for the starter contactor.
The starter contactor is the same one B&C has been selling for
about 5 years and seems to have a very low "stick" rate. We tore
some apart and found a very HIGH pressure design in the contacts
combined with intermittant duty (high force) solenoid structure.
a nicely built part. This part is also internally diode "suppressed"
to mitigate some of the stresses on your starter button.
Anywho, note the vertical orientation of the studs on the starter
contactor . . . they cannot be missaligned by installation error.
Wish I could find a continuous duty contactor in the same configuration
. . . we're still looking.
If an installed contactor sticks repeatedly, it's DAMAGED and
should be replaced. However, we're all flying airplanes with
failure tolerant designs . . . right? We LOOK to see if the
contactor is stuck after every start and a simple flick of the
master switch keeps it from being anything other than a maintenance
event . . . right? RIGHT?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS4-4 rivet, accepted practice for getting smooth surface? |
Doug,
Use a 120 degree by #30 machine countersink. The normal countersinks are
only 100 degrees, hence your problem. I don't know if 120 degree dimple
dies are available. After c'sinking, you'll need to open the hole a small
amount, since the shank of the CS4-4 is around .130 or so.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN
-
> What is the accepted practice to arrive at a smooth surface using CS4-4
> rivets?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Relay Sticking |
<< If you learn anything more
from someone smarter or better connected than me, be sure to let us know.
>>
Has anyone installed a starter button or toggle instead of a relay type
contactor?
You know, kind of like the starter button on the floor of antique cars? It
could be wired to work with a key, and should never fuse together, or would
it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder return springs - RV4 |
All I used for a control lock was a strong bungee cord with hooks
on each end. I pulled the stick full aft and to the left and
hooked each end on the flap actuator rod. It holds pretty
solidly. Nothing for the rudder, though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | 18 Years of the RV-ator, in the mail |
To all the people who have pre-ordered and have patiently been waiting
for your 18 YEARS OF THE RV-ATOR BOOK.
Your wait is finally over. Over 200 of them were shipped out today by
priority mail.
Thanks again for your patience.
For those who have yet to order; there are plenty left.
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder return springs - RV4 |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Gust locks - I want them so that when parked outdoors while waiting in
> line for
> the next available hangar at $400+ per month (an expected four year
> wait!), my
> little bird won't get beat to hell.
>
> Does anyone have a design for safe but effective gust locks for the
> RV6a?
>
> Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating
> canopy
> halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
> Hal,
Check out the one's in the Cleavland CatalogEd Cole RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: It is now an airplane |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>well, my RV-6 is now officially an airplane. The local DAR, Mac
>Childers,
>came out this afternood and signed it off. Of course the weather gods
>cooperated nicely (Sarcasm Generator set to HIGH) and the wind chose
>that
>moment to pick up and get real gusty. So the first flight has been
>postponed to another day.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>RV-6 N601DB
>Ready for first flight (I've waited a long time to say that.)
>
>
>
Congrats Dave.
The finish line is in sight.
Let us know when the big day has arrived.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Pleeze someone, state a price and approximate waiting time for the RV6
>QB.
>Wannabeee LKD
>
>
>
Try the Van's aircraft web page at WWW.vansaircraft.com
Or you can call the office at 503-647-5117 and ask for the free brocure
to be mailed to you
The wait time mostly depends on how quick you can get there to pick it
up!
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Tips -LONG |
> > Remember that BRAKES can be used for directional control as well (on
> > landing anyway),
> > Scott,
> > no flames here,
> > My post was about take off's only. For the take-off, in most single engine
> > airplanes, I stand by what I said.
> > dougr(at)petroblend.com
> > http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
Ever have those times when you regret clicking on 'send' right after
you've done it? "I want that email back!"...
I knew I was gonna be in for it. I seem to be good at making an
empennage (figuratively speaking) of myself in front of 700 odd (don't
take it personally) list members ;)
OK so... First off, Yeah, as much as it sounded like I did, I don't want
to start a pissing contest of any sort, much less wheel landings -vs- 3
pointers. That would go on forever. They both have their place for sure.
I still believe in LIFTING the tail on takeoff for many reasons most of
which have been mentioned in this thread. I don't believe directional
control is sacrificed, in fact I believe the opposite. We aggree to
disaggree here, OK? ...and I've never flown a T-6 eh? (much as I'd love
to -hey you'll just have to give me some T-6 time and set me straight
ok?)
As far as "Brakes are for mistakes" -well, it's a catchy phrase, and I
must admit I've even said it myself. I don't want beginning TD students
to use 'em. However when a student has learned to use ALL the rudder
FIRST, then it's time to talk brakes. Airplanes have independant L & R
brake systems for a reason -differential braking. Differential braking
has a purpose -steering. No, they are not primary filght controls by any
means, and to say they are a 'get out of trouble free card' is similar
to what I'm trying to convey here. Brakes augment rudder -they don't
replace it. Rudder first. But ask Delmar Benjamin how he lands that
GeeBee (I did) -he'll tell you it would be next to impossible without
differential braking in the last part of the rollout as that little
rudder becomes largely ineffective. Our rudders are largely ineffective
as well in the last part of a rollout in a X wind of any significance.
And the brakes work better with the tail up when it's gusty (unless you
like barking sounds). It takes practice to learn how not to nose over
-but nosing over is harder than you think.
I screwed up by 'categorically' recommending keeping the tail up while
braking. It works for me, has done so for years, and has saved my
empennage (both literally and figuratively this time). I realize it will
be a different case in different planes and with different pilots.
As far as that 50 knot gust story (geez, did that sound bad... there I
wuz...). But it's true. Liberal, Kansas early spring '92. Clear blue
skies. And no, it wasn't a crosswind -cause I cheated and landed across
the runway at a 45 deg angle. It would have been though... There were
paving machines on the runway I really needed. Taxiing in was a whole
lot scarier than landing and took forever. The 140 was jumping and
dancing like a kid who hadn't found a bathroom yet. Line guy met me at
the tiedowns and he tied the wings while I sat inside and 'flew'. Then
he asked me just what the h#ll I thought I was doing flying a
featherweight plane in this stuff. Dead calm when I left New Mexico at
sunrise a couple hours earlier. It pays to practice in wind...
The moral of all this gobbledegook is that we all need to practice
constantly, carefully try different techniques and in so doing we will
find out what works for us, and become confident in varying conditions.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Fwd: Humor/Chat/Whatever] |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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From: DRich0302 <DRich0302(at)aol.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 00:01:05 EDT
lottmc(at)datastar.net
Subject: Fwd: Humor/Chat/Whatever
boundary="part0_891921666_boundary"
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From: LKLASH01 <LKLASH01(at)aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: Humor/Chat/Whatever
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 23:37:57 EDT
boundary="part1_891921666_boundary"
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From: SHELLBU <SHELLBU(at)aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: Humor/Chat/Whatever
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 19:53:05 EDT
boundary="part2_891921666_boundary"
--part2_891921666_boundary
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by rly-za01.mx.aol.com (8.8.5/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0)
with ESMTP id IAA11937;
world.std.com (TheWorld/Spike-2.0)
by italy.it.earthlink.net (8.8.7/8.8.5) with SMTP id FAA22678
From: Bob DuPuy <bobdupuy(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Humor/Chat/Whatever
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 07:49:08 -0600
boundary="part3_891921666_boundary"
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with ESMTP id IAA11937;
world.std.com (TheWorld/Spike-2.0)
by italy.it.earthlink.net (8.8.7/8.8.5) with SMTP id FAA22678
From: Bob DuPuy <bobdupuy(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Humor/Chat/Whatever
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 07:49:08 -0600
Especially for our Docs and other health care professionals in Thyca
Subject: Have you forgotten your chemistry?
Element: WOMAN
Symbol: Wo
Atomic Weight: 120 +/-
Physical Properties: Generally round in form. Boils at nothing and may freeze
anytime. Melts whenever treated properly. Very bitter if not used well.
Chemical Properties: Very active. Possesses strong affinity to gold,silver,
platinum, and precious stones. Violent when left alone. Able to absorb great
amount of exotic food. Turns slightly green when placed beside a better
specimen. Ages rapidly. Usage: Highly ornamental. An extremely good catalyst
for disintegration of wealth. Probably the most powerful income reducing agent
known. Caution: Highly explosive in inexperienced hands.
-----
Element: MAN
Symbol: XY
Atomic Weight: 180 +/- 100
Physical Properties: Solid at room temperature but easily gets bent out of
shape. Fairly dense and sometimes flaky. Difficult to find a pure sample. Due
to rust, aging samples are unable to conduct electricity as easily as young,
fresh samples. Chemical Properties: Attempt to bond with Wo any chance it can
get. Also, tends to form strong bonds with itself. Becomes explosive when
mixed with Kd (element Kid) for prolonged period of time. Pretty basic.
Neutralize by saturating with alcohol. Usage: None really, except methane
production. Good samples are able to produce large quantities on command.
Caution: In the absence of Wo, this element rapidly decomposes and begins to
smell
--------------------------------
Bob DuPuy
bobdupuy(at)earthlink.net
/\__/\
o o
= + =
--part3_891921666_boundary--
--part2_891921666_boundary--
--part1_891921666_boundary--
--part0_891921666_boundary--
--------------FFACB2B821A487D4717B41F5--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
I think I accidentally forwarded a message to the list. Sorry.
It was just a dumb joke forwarded to me and a pile of others.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder return springs - RV4 |
>Does anyone have a design for safe but effective gust locks for the RV6a?
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating canopy
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
Hal,
I saw a pretty slick set up at a fly in. It was a "long "U" shape" piece
of round, heavey gauge, very stiff wire. The builder had drilled a hole in
the rudder stop and another one in the rudder horn and slid the ends of the
"U" into their respective holes. Gravity held the the "U" in place. Maybe
this is what Cleavland has for sale in their catalog, I don''t know as my
catalog is quite old.
Bob Skinner RV-6 405 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>There is a prepunched hole in the bottom inboard right wing skin on the
-8
>for a ventilation line. Do I need to buy and install a fitting for
this
>hole before I close the wing or is this item included in the fuselage
or
>finish kits. If I need to purchase this item how about some input on
what
>my options are.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bill Pagan
Bill,
You'll need to purchase a NACA inlet from Van's accessories catalog.
They're made of plastic, and can be glued in place, or riveted, as long
as some sort of backing is used to keep the rivets from pulling through
the plastic. While you're at it, buy the scat tubing as well, so you can
affix it to the inlet before closing the wing. Van's has a complete
ventilator kit with all the goodies, and it doesn't cost much at all.
There will be a need for two such kits, for both the wing and forward
fuselage vents. I'm going to install the wing vent very soon, and will
probably use some Proseal or automotive gasket sealant along with some
blind rivets to mount the vent.
Best of luck.
Brian Denk
-8 #379
tank time
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | advice re: fuel leak |
After the last couple of flights, I noticed a small amount of fuel dripping
from the bottom of the cowl. After further investigation I found that it was
coming from the air filter box, ( thru the 1/8" hole in the bottom of the
box). Looked into the box with a flashlight, there was a "puddle of fuel" in
there which would drip out the hole. Any thoughts from you engine guys?
Thanks,
Walt. RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Tips -LONG |
spencer wrote:
>
>
> > > Remember that BRAKES can be used for directional control as well (on
> > > landing anyway),
> > > Scott,
> > > no flames here,
> > > My post was about take off's only. For the take-off, in most single engine
> > > airplanes, I stand by what I said.
> > > dougr(at)petroblend.com
> > > http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
> >
> Ever have those times when you regret clicking on 'send' right after
> you've done it? "I want that email back!"...
>
> I knew I was gonna be in for it. I seem to be good at making an
> empennage (figuratively speaking) of myself in front of 700 odd (don't
> take it personally) list members ;)
>
> OK so... First off, Yeah, as much as it sounded like I did, I don't want
> to start a pissing contest of any sort, much less wheel landings -vs- 3
> pointers. That would go on forever. They both have their place for sure.
>
> I still believe in LIFTING the tail on takeoff for many reasons most of
> which have been mentioned in this thread. I don't believe directional
> control is sacrificed, in fact I believe the opposite. We aggree to
> disaggree here, OK? ...and I've never flown a T-6 eh? (much as I'd love
> to -hey you'll just have to give me some T-6 time and set me straight
> ok?)
>
> As far as "Brakes are for mistakes" -well, it's a catchy phrase, and I
> must admit I've even said it myself. I don't want beginning TD students
> to use 'em. However when a student has learned to use ALL the rudder
> FIRST, then it's time to talk brakes. Airplanes have independant L & R
> brake systems for a reason -differential braking. Differential braking
> has a purpose -steering. No, they are not primary filght controls by any
> means, and to say they are a 'get out of trouble free card' is similar
> to what I'm trying to convey here. Brakes augment rudder -they don't
> replace it. Rudder first. But ask Delmar Benjamin how he lands that
> GeeBee (I did) -he'll tell you it would be next to impossible without
> differential braking in the last part of the rollout as that little
> rudder becomes largely ineffective. Our rudders are largely ineffective
> as well in the last part of a rollout in a X wind of any significance.
> And the brakes work better with the tail up when it's gusty (unless you
> like barking sounds). It takes practice to learn how not to nose over
> -but nosing over is harder than you think.
>
> I screwed up by 'categorically' recommending keeping the tail up while
> braking. It works for me, has done so for years, and has saved my
> empennage (both literally and figuratively this time). I realize it will
> be a different case in different planes and with different pilots.
>
> As far as that 50 knot gust story (geez, did that sound bad... there I
> wuz...). But it's true. Liberal, Kansas early spring '92. Clear blue
> skies. And no, it wasn't a crosswind -cause I cheated and landed across
> the runway at a 45 deg angle. It would have been though... There were
> paving machines on the runway I really needed. Taxiing in was a whole
> lot scarier than landing and took forever. The 140 was jumping and
> dancing like a kid who hadn't found a bathroom yet. Line guy met me at
> the tiedowns and he tied the wings while I sat inside and 'flew'. Then
> he asked me just what the h#ll I thought I was doing flying a
> featherweight plane in this stuff. Dead calm when I left New Mexico at
> sunrise a couple hours earlier. It pays to practice in wind...
>
> The moral of all this gobbledegook is that we all need to practice
> constantly, carefully try different techniques and in so doing we will
> find out what works for us, and become confident in varying conditions.
>
> Scott
> N4ZW
>
Finally a Pilot That I agree knows how to fly a tail dragger.
Pleasure to meet you sir!!! Don Champagne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
If I could make a suggestion, leave this part unfinished until you mount
the wings to the fuse. Sometimes the flap is too close to the body of the
aircraft and the flap can then be adjusted to fit. The whole thing will make
sense when you see where it is supposed to go.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvmils <Rvmils(at)aol.com> |
I went by radio shack and it sure looks like I would save alot of money if I
went with their switches, wire strips, and circuit breakers instead of Van's
circuit breaker switches and bus bar(accessories catalog p.39). Is this the
standard or do you guys normally go with the radio shack stuff.
23 more days...
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bright <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CS4-4 rivet, accepted practice for getting smooth |
surface?
Doug wrote: CS4-4 rivets sit a little proud from the skin when drilling
#40, dimpling for #3 size, then drilling #30.
Alex wrote: Use a 120 degree by #30 machine countersink. The normal
countersinks are only 100 degrees, hence your problem. I don't know if 120
degree dimple dies are available. After c'sinking, you'll need to open the
hole a small amount, since the shank of the CS4-4 is around .130 or so.
My method: Drill #30, dimple size 4. Don't machine skins in general because
they are thin. The issue with your assembly is use of #3 dimple instead of #4,
John Bright, 406 Nicewood Drive, Newport News, VA 23602, USA,
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com, H:757-886-1161, W:757-875-7324, RV-6/6A 25088,
elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>I went by radio shack and it sure looks like I would save alot of money if I
>went with their switches, wire strips, and circuit breakers instead of Van's
>circuit breaker switches and bus bar(accessories catalog p.39). Is this the
>standard or do you guys normally go with the radio shack stuff.
>
>23 more days...
>Carey Mills
A difficult question to answer in an e-mail message to a list
server. May I recommend some reading materials not the least of
which may be found at <http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles>
and elsewhere on that site. The answer isn't going to be a,
"no I buy from brand B." It's imporant to have some appreciation
for what individual parts are expected to do for you. If you're
airplane project is going to be the clone of a spam-can (in
spirit if not in sheet metal) then you'd better be looking for
every STC-PMAd and holy watered part you can find. However,
as an amateur builder, you have an opportunity to build better-
than-spam-can and fly it in confidence because you KNOW the
system and understand it and are ready to deal with its limitations.
This puts much broader responsabilities on you as a builder/
pilot and we'd do you a terrible dis-service at this time to
either recommend or slam any particular SOURCE of parts . . .
the devil is in the details.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Relay Sticking |
>Has anyone installed a starter button or toggle instead of a relay type
>contactor?
>You know, kind of like the starter button on the floor of antique cars? It
>could be wired to work with a key, and should never fuse together, or would
>it?
When the starter "button" was on the floor, tromping the thing
with your foot (1) moved the starter pinion gear into engagement
with the engine ring-gear and (2) made a heavy duty electrical
contact to apply power to the motor. . . . not a terribly attractive
alternative for airplanes. Starter contactor "sticking" is a
pretty rare event that can be made still more rare by judicious
selection of starter contactor, keeping the battery up to snuff
and avoiding attempts to crank the engine when the battery is
getting soggy . . . more wear and tear is brought upon cranking
system components by "squeezing one more start" from a sub-par
system than by all other starts when things are working as they
should.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Control Stick Length |
It seems to me that the control sticks come very long. Is this needed for
leverage? I would think that the plane would have a much sporterier look
with shorter sticks. Has anyone cut these down?
Paul Besing
RV-6A
Controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | CFI RVer in the SE? |
I have a request from a friend who has his RV flying ( lucky dog) and he has
several hundred hours in a 3 that he built and received a Sun n Fun
construction award. He now has over a hundred hours in his 6A, but feels like
he would like to get some pointers and critique of his flying techniques. He
is willing to fly anywhere in the SE usa if there is someone out there is a
CFI with RV experience.
You can either reply to list in case there are others who might be interested
or reply off line to kerrjb(at)aol.com
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: advice re: fuel leak |
>After the last couple of flights, I noticed a small amount of fuel dripping
>from the bottom of the cowl. After further investigation I found that it was
>coming from the air filter box, ( thru the 1/8" hole in the bottom of the
>box). Looked into the box with a flashlight, there was a "puddle of fuel" in
>there which would drip out the hole. Any thoughts from you engine guys?
>Thanks,
>Walt. RV-6A
Is your engine injected? If so, then this is "normal". Lycoming fuel
injected engines have a "sniffle" valve to let puddled fuel out when
manifold pressure=atmospheric. The intent is to help with flooding.
If yours is carbureted....then its a different matter.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
Your title said RV8A QB but message said RV6A QB. Guess you meant the
RV6A.
It is best to check directly with Vans. 503-647-5117 if memory serves
me.
Also check www.vansaircraft.com.
The quickbuild cost sans tail sans finish kit is about 15 Gs(last year
price). Delivery time for mine was 4 weeks to pack date, 2 weeks to
pack and 1 week for delivery. I live in the beautiful (now thanks to
spring) Blue Ridge Mountains in Roanoke, VA. That was for a kit they
had in stock. If it is not in stock you mileage may vary.
Hope this helps. If it is any help, the quality of the quickbuild is
excellent and it is packaged very well for shipment. Better eat your
wheaties when you get it though because the big box (fuselage) weighs in
around 1000 pounds (depending on what other orders you consolidate with
the shipment).
Gary Fesenbek
Roanoke, VA
RV6A QB, fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry.K.Daudt [SMTP:B747400(at)CompuServe.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 06, 1998 8:31 PM
> To: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A QB
>
>
>
> Pleeze someone, state a price and approximate waiting time for the RV6
> QB.
> Wannabeee LKD
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system design |
I've been emailing to an engineering friend of mine about aux tank designs.
Here's part of one of his responnses. You'll want to read it through.
-Joe
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Since it's tax time, I've included handy form RV-6)
1. What kind of range will your ordinary main tanks give you? ____
2. How many hours is this in the air? ____
3. How long can you fly without needing to stop and pee? ____
4. If the answer to 3 is less than the answer to 2,
check this box [ ]; and if you will be the only pilot
of this aircraft, stop here. You don't need aux tanks.
5. How much will the aux tank system weigh when empty? ____
6. How much does one pound of weight reduce your range? ____
7. Multiply line 5 by line 6. ____
8. Subtract line 7 from line 1. This answer is the amount
your normal range will be after installing the aux system. ____
9. If line 8 is shorter than your common destinations, and
line 1 is not shorter than your common destinations,
check both of these boxes [ ] [ ]
If you continue to fill out this form, you will be audited.
10. How much fuel will the aux tanks hold? ____
11. How far can you fly on one gallon of fuel? ____
12. Multiply line 10 by line 11. This answer is the amount
your range will be extended if you add aux tanks. ____
13. If line 12 doesn't get you any place line 1 already reaches,
check this box [ ]
14. Will you be flying over moutainous terrain?
If NOT, check this box [ ]
15. Will you be flying over vast stretches of uninhabited
country?
If NOT, check this box [ ]
16. Will you be flying over large bodies of water?
If NOT, check this box [ ]
17. How much time will it take you to design and install an
aux fuel system? ____
18. Multiply line 17 by $20. ____
19. How much will you spend on parts for the aux fuel system? ____
20. Add lines 18 and 19. This is the cost of the aux system. ____
21. If line 20 is greater than $800, check this box [ ]
22. How many hours per week have you spent on construction? ____
23. No, honestly, how many hours per week, really? ____
24. Divide line 17 by line 23, and multiply the result by 1.3,
because you're still lying. This is the number of weeks
adding an aux fuel system will add to your construction. ____
25. Count the number of boxes you have checked in lines 4, 9,
13, 14, 15, 16 and 21. ____
26. Subtract line 25 from the number "8" (8 - line 25) ____
27. Multiply line 26 by 3: ____ If this is greater than the
number in line 24, check this box [ ]
28. If line 27 is checked, add one to line 25 and write the
result here, otherwise just write line 25's value here. ____
29. Each box checked represents a strike against installing
aux tanks. If line 28 is 3 or less, you have a strong
case for installing aux tanks. If line 28 is 6 or more,
you'd be installing aux tanks for very little gain.
If the answer is somewhere in between, flip a coin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
<< Is this the
standard or do you guys normally go with the radio shack stuff. >>
I would advise against the R/S stuff. Most of it is just too darn rinky dink
for an a/c IMO.
Get an Allied Catalog and buy some good stuff. It really doesn't cost that
much more, in the grand scheme of things, to get the better stuff.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Length |
<< It seems to me that the control sticks come very long. Is this needed for
leverage? I would think that the plane would have a much sporterier look
with shorter sticks. Has anyone cut these down? >>
Absolutely. Mine are about 4" shorter but have the Northwestern Grips woody
jobs which extend a bit above the cut end of the sticks. Depending on the
grip you use you should cut the stick length accordingly. But think ahead.
Position all of the controls where they are going to be.
My throttle, prop and mixture knobs are on a 1.5"H x 7.5"W horizontal bracket
hanging off the center bottom edge of my panel (which is already about 1"
lower than standard). I cut the sticks so that I had about 1.5" clearance
from the stick grip top to the throttle shaft when in the full right forward
quadrant. This puts it also about 1.5" below the panel edge (even though it
doesn't go under the panel).
My buddy said if it were his a/c he would cut them off about another 2".
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
charset="us-ascii"
Scott,
I think we are saying the same thing in a different way. I never said I
don't lift the tail. And I too wish there was a recall button on some posts
that I have made
This all started because I responded to this line in a post:
<>
My response was:
<>
Raising the tail too early with an AFT CG can get you in trouble!
Then I went on to say:
<>
I think this is where the rub came, I went on to clarify Single Engine. Are
there other exceptions? You bet. Did I stray into the opinion area?
Probably. Where did that come from?
My "Opinion" comes from my T-6 training where the concern is the P-factor,
Gyroscopic precession, and slipstream effect coupled with the desire for new
warbird pilots to show off. This causes many T-6's to take an immediate left
turn as the tail is being raised. The solution is to teach a neutral
elevator take off which will result in the tail raising and the airplane
lifting off moments later. I think this is the take off profile that the
military taught in those airplanes to prepare pilots for the Mustang.
Do we learn and practice the raise the tail and drive method? You bet. In
formation it is a must! How do I normally take off? Raise the tail (not
early however) and drive. I would still instruct a beginner to learn the
tail low take off first. Because my "Opinion" is, it is the safest!
I "Know" (10 yr. nite freight BE-18) that raising the tail too early can
cause problems. Will the RV forgive you for this behavior? Yes, but not all
airplanes will. Larry Daudt could talk long, I am sure, about the
consequences of rushing the tail up in a Mustang. Van has designed a
remarkably forgiving airplane. It will forgive many bad habits, raising a
wing with aileron in a stall, for instance, but that doesn't mean that
behavior should be tolerated by instructors, even if the airplane will.
As for the brakes issue, I was trying to be gentle. I was sure you did not
mean it how it sounded, but could not in good conscience allow endorsement
of brakes with the tail up go with out a comment. The forgiveness of the
RV allows this as well. I agree with rev. 2.0 of your brake discussion.
In closing, I do not see this discussion as a "pissing contest." Your
comments have never had that tone, I hope mine have not either. I think it
is healthy discourse on the subject and I am certain that several have
learned from it, I always do. For those times when I state my "opinions"
with too much emphasis, I apologize.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lundquist" <DLUNDQUIST(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sherwin Williams Primer |
Listers,
Although I currently using Veriprime and reasonably happy with it, I was
considering using a bit of the SW 988 for convenience on small parts since
it is available in spray cans. I didn't know which local stores stock the
stuff so, I gave their 800 # a call. The guy on the phone was quite
helpful and was trying to identify a SW store which carried the stuff near
me. After a few unsuccessful tries, he paused for a moment and said,
"well, I'm really not supposed to tell you this but, is there a NAPA auto
parts store near you? OK, ask for their #7220 primer, It's our 988 packaged
for them".
Hope this helps those who would like to use 988 and need a local source
Dave Lundquist
RV-6
Empennage nearly complete, Wing kit on the Truck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
SNIP
>By the way, *EVERYTHING* I have ever bought from Radio Shack has been either
>poor quality, mislabled or no bargain. I think they deal in manufacturers
>rejects. For many items, if too many in a lot, such as 5 in 100 are
defective
>the whole lot is rejected. The manufacturer who made the lot can often find
>buyers who don't care so that it isn't worth it to re-make or test each.
>
SNIP
I heartily second that. If, by some chance I find something I need at
Radio Shack, it never works right. I would NEVER put ANYTHING from Radio
Shack into an airplane where it could endanger my life when it failed. Get
real electronic parts from someone like DigiKey http://www.digikey.com or
Newark http://newark.com. Digikey specializes in supplying small
quantities of parts to "experimenters", and while they don't go out of
their way to solicit them, Newark readily accepts small orders from
individuals, and their free catalog is HUGE.
Don Hyde
6A, Tools ordered, order tail as soon as I can unload the boat...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
The other day I wrote:
"By the way, *EVERYTHING* I have ever bought from Radio Shack has been either
poor quality, mislabled or no bargain. I think they deal in manufacturers
rejects. For many items, if too many in a lot, such as 5 in 100 are defective
the whole lot is rejected. The manufacturer who made the lot can often find
buyers who don't care so that it isn't worth it to re-make or test each."
For my airplane, I want to buy quality products from reputable merchants.
Maybe RS is okay. One of the very good arguments for not using auto parts is
that there are many shoddy even dishonest manufacturers and suppliers. You can
get cheated by aircraft suppliers too. Bogus parts for airliners is big
business - worth it becuase their parts cost ten times what they do for a gen
av plane. There was a crook a few years ago operating a gyro overhaul facility
in Kansas. He stuck illegal yellow tags on his stuff. The FAA caught him and
did little more than slap his hands.
WHo makes good stuff? Alco, Grayhill, C-H and more. I suspect that what you
get from AC Spruce is good.
Whose brand name is on the Radio Shack switches?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating canopy
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
That was a great joke, though I'm sure someone will complain. :)
Moe
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
> I think I accidentally forwarded a message to the list. Sorry.
> It was just a dumb joke forwarded to me and a pile of others.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: CFI RVer in the SE? |
[snip]
> he would like to get some pointers and critique of his flying techniques. He
> is willing to fly anywhere in the SE usa if there is someone out there is a
> CFI with RV experience.
Mike Seager posted the following a few weeks ago. It would be well
worth the effort to get hold of him and go flying.
> Anyone wanting to get some rv flight training I will be taking the RV6
> 66RV on the road for three stops the week before sun and fun. The first
> stop will be Grand Rapids Mich April 8,9,10 (apt is 3GM) and the contact
> is John Gill at 616 776-0840. My second stop is at Hampton Rds Va April
> 12, 13, 14 (apt PVG) the contact is Dick Reynolds at 757 627 8743. Third
> stop is at Dublin Ga April 16, 17, 18 (apt DBN)and the contact is Brent
> Mayo at 912 275-4320 or you can reach me at 503 429-5103 between
> 0700am-0900am Pacific time
> MIKE SEAGER rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Length |
<< I would think that the plane would have a much sporterier look
with shorter sticks. Has anyone cut these down? >>
I cut mine down for two reasons. 1) They were different lengths so I made
them even and 2) I added some wooden stick grips that would have made my
sticks long enough to hit the panel. I think that with my stick fully
forward, it is about 2 inches below the panel.
Before you go cutting your sticks down do the following:
Install your seats and arm rest and get comfortable in the plane. See where
your hand naturally rests. Dont cut a thing yet! Make a mental note of where
your hand rests.
Find an RV-(anything) and get/beg a ride. Now hold the stick where you thought
you might like it to make sure that the stick forces arent too high. As the
sticks get shorter the force required to move em increases because you loose
leverage. THE nicest thing about the RV series of aircraft is the control
harmony. I wouldnt want to trade the control feel of my aircraft just to make
it "look cool".
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
See ya at SNF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | NAPA 7220 Primer |
Thanks Mr. Lundquist,
Called NAPA for price and I was told $5.04 a can. Does this ring true with
you and others on the list?
Another option is cheap BONDO primer(etching qualities unkown) at WALMART,
$2.25/can. After spraying, I place the items over my kerosene heater to
bake it on. 1 can about covers both elevator horns, stiffeners, servo
plates, small skeleton elements, trim tab, hinge, etc for left elevator.
Oh, I use Variprime via a cheap harbor freight touch up sprayer for the
skins and bigger projects. I only alodyne non alcad parts. I am now
debating whether I should drop my anal factor down a notch or two and stop
painting alcad. I really do hate painting!!!!!
Regards
Vince Himsl
RV8 Left Elevator
Wings on Order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Length |
There have been a couple of posts about this in the past as well as at
least one article in the RVator written by Van. He recommends against any
cutting of the stick because the reduced leverage results in heavier
control feel. Recommend you build the stick full length initially and
simply grasp it lower during your test flight phase to determine whats best
for you. Lot easier to trim after the fact than to add length.
Mike Wills
RV-4(fuse)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
At 06:01 AM 4/7/98, you wrote:
>
>It seems to me that the control sticks come very long. Is this needed for
>leverage? I would think that the plane would have a much sporterier look
>with shorter sticks. Has anyone cut these down?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A
>Controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Length |
On Tue, 7 Apr 1998, RV6junkie wrote:
> Before you go cutting your sticks down do the following:
>
> Find an RV-(anything) and get/beg a ride. Now hold the stick where you thought
> you might like it to make sure that the stick forces arent too high. As the
> sticks get shorter the force required to move em increases because you loose
> leverage.
Having beggede a ride (thanks Louise), I can say that stick force isn't an
issue. Just the opposite, in fact. RVs are light and sensitive on the
controls. So a small movement of the stick results in a big change in
aircraft attitude. A shorter stick will make it even worse.
> THE nicest thing about the RV series of aircraft is the control
> harmony. I wouldnt want to trade the control feel of my aircraft just to make
> it "look cool".
Agreed. Better to have a cool plane than a cool-looking plane.
> See ya at SNF
I wish!
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
> "By the way, *EVERYTHING* I have ever bought from Radio Shack has been either
> poor quality, mislabled or no bargain.
Ditto, everything I buy from them breaks.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
>RG58
50 Ohm Coax, 20AWG solid Center conductor, single layer tinned overbraid
>RG58 A/U
50 Ohm coax, 20AWG (19 strands x .0071"), single layer tinned overbraid
>
>RG58 C/U >>
Bob: doesn't one of those letter suffixes (perhaps the "U") indicate a
noncontaminating plastic outer jacket that won't ruin the dielectric quite as
quickly?
That's what I remember from the early days of hamming, anyway. The
noncontaminating cables were thought to be superior, and certainly worth it in
an installation where cable replacement is difficult to accomplish. What's
your opinion on the service life of modern coax at VHF and beyond?
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
Rvmils wrote:
>
>
> I went by radio shack and it sure looks like I would save alot of money if I
> went with their switches, wire strips, and circuit breakers instead of Van's
> circuit breaker switches and bus bar(accessories catalog p.39). Is this the
> standard or do you guys normally go with the radio shack stuff.
>
> 23 more days...
> Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Leg Fairings |
Hello Mark,
I heard that you make and sell your own gear leg fairings.
A friend of my with an RV-4 (just flying) is interested in them. What
information do you have on them?? Cost, availability, etc.
Jim Ayers
Least Drag
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CFI RVer in the SE? |
<< Third
> stop is at Dublin Ga April 16, 17, 18 (apt DBN)and the contact is Brent
> Mayo at 912 275-4320 or you can reach me at 503 429-5103 between
> 0700am-0900am Pacific time
> MIKE SEAGER rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com
>>
Randall,
Sounds good, but my friend called some time ago and was told it was sold out.
He has talked to Mike about possibly getting with him and SnF. Mike told him
to stand by and see him when he got there, but did not sound to promising . Is
there no other CFI in the SE who flies RV's regularly? Thanks for Mike's email
address.
Bernie kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
Thanks Doug: Just remember your T-6 requal is due soon. Am I in trouble
now? See you way up nort when the Hvd gets up.
Larry
Gotta get a ride in that Panther.
Did you get the oil leak stopped?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hoffyrv6 <hoffyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net> |
So how do you get that 1000 pound box off the truck and into your garage (or
basement in my case). When I received a tail kit and wing kit a few of us could
hike it down there. I don't think I have enough friends to get a 1000 pounds into
my basement. Even if I did I'm not sure I could get them there when the truck
shows up. How did you manage it?
Fesenbek, Gary wrote:
>
> Your title said RV8A QB but message said RV6A QB. Guess you meant the
> RV6A.
>
> It is best to check directly with Vans. 503-647-5117 if memory serves
> me.
>
> Also check www.vansaircraft.com.
>
> The quickbuild cost sans tail sans finish kit is about 15 Gs(last year
> price). Delivery time for mine was 4 weeks to pack date, 2 weeks to
> pack and 1 week for delivery. I live in the beautiful (now thanks to
> spring) Blue Ridge Mountains in Roanoke, VA. That was for a kit they
> had in stock. If it is not in stock you mileage may vary.
>
> Hope this helps. If it is any help, the quality of the quickbuild is
> excellent and it is packaged very well for shipment. Better eat your
> wheaties when you get it though because the big box (fuselage) weighs in
> around 1000 pounds (depending on what other orders you consolidate with
> the shipment).
>
> Gary Fesenbek
> Roanoke, VA
> RV6A QB, fuselage
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry.K.Daudt [SMTP:B747400(at)CompuServe.com]
> > Sent: Monday, April 06, 1998 8:31 PM
> > To: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A QB
> >
> >
> >
> > Pleeze someone, state a price and approximate waiting time for the RV6
> > QB.
> > Wannabeee LKD
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
----------
> From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying Tips
> Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 11:09 AM
> One Lister said you could get in trouble by lifting the tail too soon.
> Now I'm not being sarcastic, so please, please don't take this wrong
> My response was:
>
> < the ground. You may not feel the most comfortable, but the tailwheel
> steering when coupled with the rudder is more effective.
> Raising the tail too early with an AFT CG can get you in trouble!
> Then I went on to say:
> < I think this is where the rub came, I went on to clarify Single Engine. Are
> there other exceptions? You bet. Did I stray into the opinion area?
> Probably. Where did that come from?
> My "Opinion" comes from my T-6 training where the concern is the P-factor,
> Gyroscopic precession, and slipstream effect coupled with the desire for new
> warbird pilots to show off. This causes many T-6's to take an immediate left
> turn as the tail is being raised. The solution is to teach a neutral
> elevator take off which will result in the tail raising and the airplane
> lifting off moments later. I think this is the take off profile that the
> military taught in those airplanes to prepare pilots for the Mustang.
>
> In closing, I do not see this discussion as a "pissing contest." Your
> comments have never had that tone, I hope mine have not either. I think it
> is healthy discourse on the subject and I am certain that several have
> learned from it, I always do. For those times when I state my "opinions"
> with too much emphasis, I apologize.
Doug,
I never,never took your replies wrong. I'm grateful for the response. I
really
didn't think you posted opinions you didn't believe in. That's why this list is
so beneficial. You get a lot of opinions from varied sources and at varied
experience
levels.
I may not agree with your opinion but I'll fight to the death for your
right to
express it (well, maybe not to the death) you know what I mean.
Jim
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hombilt(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Do I need a new sheet? |
Re the thread asking whether to buy a new skin because of an extra rivet
hole.
An old Chinese proverb says:
Everthing needs a flaw in it for the devil to escape. I'd hate to think
of flying my RV-6 around with the devil trapped inside. I have enough
problems without hauling the devil around.
Cheers
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
Carey, don't do it. If you can't find aircraft surplus or salvage, then buy
from Van's, Spruce etc. If you don't know how to inspect and test salvage
parts then stick with surplus or new (same difference). In any case use
aircraft wire, and parts.
Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Hi,
the heat muffs that Vans sells don't fit a Vetterman exhaust (they are all
too long). I bought one not knowing this. Anyone with a fix for this
expensive part?
Thanks
Royce Craven
RV-6A Melbourne Oz
roycece(at)ozemail.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>There is a prepunched hole in the bottom inboard right wing skin on
>the -8
>for a ventilation line. Do I need to buy and install a fitting for
>this
>hole before I close the wing or is this item included in the fuselage
>or
>finish kits. If I need to purchase this item how about some input on
>what
>my options are.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bill Pagan
>-8A (really glad to see it flying)
>workin on the 2nd leading edge
>
>
>
>
The vent kits are supplied in the fuselage kit I believe.
It is not at all difficult to install the vent housing after closing the
wing.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: advice re: fuel leak |
<< s your engine injected? If so, then this is "normal". Lycoming fuel
injected engines have a "sniffle" valve to let puddled fuel out when
manifold pressure=atmospheric. The intent is to help with flooding.
If yours is carbureted....then its a different matter. >>
My engine is carbureted. What do yo think?
Walt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>After the last couple of flights, I noticed a small amount of fuel
>dripping
>from the bottom of the cowl. After further investigation I found that
>it was
>coming from the air filter box, ( thru the 1/8" hole in the bottom of
>the
>box). Looked into the box with a flashlight, there was a "puddle of
>fuel" in
>there which would drip out the hole. Any thoughts from you engine
>guys?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Walt. RV-6A
>
>
>
>
My first guess would be that you have a bad needle/seat for the float in
your carburetor (does the engine also seem to be running really rich?
This would be evident on the ground taxiing if it runs better with the
mixture pulled way out.
Another possibility is that the float is stuck, or that you still have
the old black fiber float (which has A.D.'s against it) in your carb. and
it has soaked up fuel and sunk (reason for the A.D.).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Length |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>It seems to me that the control sticks come very long. Is this needed
>for
>leverage? I would think that the plane would have a much sporterier
>look
>with shorter sticks. Has anyone cut these down?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A
>Controls
>
>
>
>
Paul, I highly recommend (as other have) that you don't trim the sticks
just for the sake of appearance. You can always do it later after you
are flying.
I think most RV pilots will agree with me that the stick gets held in a
lot of different locations depending on what you are doing it the time.
When doing aerobatics it is usually near the top ( the control forces
firm up quite a bit when the airspeed is up in the yellow arc range).
Level flight on a cross country a lot of pilots rest there arm on there
leg and hold the stick down low ( you don't need much control input to
keep the blue over your head).
BTW the stick on the right being slightly longer makes it even less
sensitive for your rookie RV flyer passengers.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder return springs - RV4 |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>>Does anyone have a design for safe but effective gust locks for the
>RV6a?
>>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating
>canopy
>>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
>
>Hal,
>
> I saw a pretty slick set up at a fly in. It was a "long "U" shape"
>piece
>of round, heavey gauge, very stiff wire. The builder had drilled a
>hole in
>the rudder stop and another one in the rudder horn and slid the ends
>of the
>"U" into their respective holes. Gravity held the the "U" in place.
>Maybe
>this is what Cleavland has for sale in their catalog, I don''t know as
>my
>catalog is quite old.
>
>Bob Skinner RV-6 405 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
>
>
This is very similar to what I did. I used a short piece of .063 angle
with 3/16 holes drilled in each end. Then drill matching holes in the
rudder horn bracket and the rudder stop.
Any time you have to leave the plane out side that it may get windy bolt
the angle in place using bolts and AN310 nuts.
BTW you shouldn't even need a flag on it because if you can taxi to a
runway with the rudder locked on an RV-6A then you have to be asleep.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: switches and electrical |
<< Who makes good stuff? Alco, Grayhill, C-H and more.>>
IMO, Microswitch (Honeywell), Grayhill, Otto, Carlingswitch are good
Military/Industrial Complex stuff. C-H and Alco are Computer/Consumer grade.
<< I suspect that what you get from AC Spruce is good.>>
It is probably adequate.
<>
Made in Taiwan.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
----------
> From: Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Heat Muff
> Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 9:08 PM
>
> Hi,
> the heat muffs that Vans sells don't fit a Vetterman exhaust (they are all
> too long). I bought one not knowing this. Anyone with a fix for this
> expensive part?
Royce,
That's the one I use with my Vetterman exhaust. I had to disassemble it
and
shorten the body. Five yrs later I had to replace the hinge on one side where
it
had been rubbing the other exhaust pipe. But it works fine, it's good to 20
degrees
for me (dumps out on my legs) but the back seat passenger freezes their _ _ _
off.
Jim
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
>>If yours is carbureted....then its a different matter. >>
>My engine is carbureted. What do yo think?
>Walt.
I'd be looking at the float level. If the fuel is dripping out of the
throat of the carb. then the float level may be too high.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
> > I think it
> > is healthy discourse on the subject and I am certain that several have
> > learned from it, I always do.
Yeah. I do too.
For those times when I state my "opinions"
> > with too much emphasis, I apologize.
Ditto.
Doug,
We agree much more than we disagree... I can see that now. It's down to
fine points. And you were right to call me on that first post I sent...
...And I still think you better give me some time in the AT-6 just to
make sure we both see eye-to-eye. Since I'm a slow learner it will
probably take several hours of dual ;)
But seriously, we can definately agree that this list is great. Like Jim
Nolan said, "It's more fun than a circus"
Scott
N4ZW
Back to lurking...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>
>Hi,
>the heat muffs that Vans sells don't fit a Vetterman exhaust (they are all
>too long). I bought one not knowing this. Anyone with a fix for this
>expensive part?
>
>Thanks
>
>Royce Craven
Royce,
Van's are very good about accepting parts back (yeah, I know the shipping
is murder). The Vetterman muffs are excellent.
Leo
Leo Davies
6A Many little jobs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EDWARD HASCH <EDWARD_HASCH(at)amrcorp.com> |
| Subject: | CFI RVer in the SE? -Reply |
I CAN HELP.
ED HASCH CFI....RV-6..RV-6A...AND RV-3
BASE M33 GALLATIN TN 615-824-4704
BEEPER 1-800-759-7243 PIN # 78147
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
<< the heat muffs that Vans sells don't fit a Vetterman exhaust (they are all
too long). I bought one not knowing this. Anyone with a fix for this
expensive part? >>
Send them back and get Rick Robbins' muffs. He's listed in the Yeller Pages
and is a first rate supplier. You won't be disappointed.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lifting the Boxes |
>So how do you get that 1000 pound box off the truck and into your garage....
I didn't have that big a box but rented a hand operated "forklift" from one
of the local rental places and used that. Of course, get one that handles
1000 pounds and gets to the level of the back of the truck.
Getting it into the basement? Open it up and take the parts down in small
batches.
Good luck and have fun (Christmas in April!)
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
<< Van's are very good about accepting parts back (yeah, I know the shipping
is murder). The Vetterman muffs are excellent.
>>
Royce,
I agree, see if vans will accept the heat muff you have for a
credit. Larry Vetterman does not make a heat muff. These are made by Rick
Robbins for the Vetterman Exaust. Like I always say, give credit where credits
due. You will find these to be one of the finest quality products of anything
you purchase for your airplane.
Rick Robbins (303)-422-9389 Colorado number
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
I E-mailed Van's on Monday to inquire on a RV6 Fuselage QB only, since my
Wings are almost finished. I was informed that the QB is only sold Wings &
Fusealge toether. Does anyone have a reason why.
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com> |
Listers-
Saturday I will be flying to Key West and on to Sun and Fun on
my return Sun 4-19. Since my 6a is still in the jig, I'll be in a '56
c-172.(Long slow trip from Delaware.) Hope to see all RV lister east of
the Miss and some west too.
Do you think RV attendance might top Oshkosh? That would be
impressive.
Rich Zeidman
RV6A
building wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
Actually the big box may have been 1200 pounds, but whats a couple of
hundred pounds between friends. If you get it delivered you have the
option of picking it up at the terminal or having it home delivered. I
have seen pictures of folks on the web unloading this by hand. I don't
recommend it however. One slip and you could be giving out a toe tag
not to mention damage to your RV.
If you opt for home delivery(in my area), you are responsible for
unloading it off of the truck. However, if you pick it up at the
terminal, they will load it on your truck for you.
If you get a UHaul (as I did) you can simply drive it home and get one
friend to help you uncrate the works inside the truck. The actual parts
are not that heavy. The fuselage can be easily lifted with two people
that are in decent shape. The wings are even easier becaue they are not
so bulky. It only took me about 2 hours to uncrate and load the stuff
into my garage. Most of the time will be spent getting inside the
crates. Have plenty of hammers, crobars and your metal shears handy.
You will also need a phillips to get the wings out of the crate. Try to
keep a piece of plywood or two in decent shape for you airfoil
templates.
ALSO!!!!! If you are going to build your plane rapidly and have the
time to do so I would recommend ordering your finish kit immediately.
There has been quite some delay in getting my finish kit. Some
scuttlebut I heard was that they are having probs in getting the engine
mounts or something. There's always other stuff you can do while
waiting, but I could have ordered my finish kit earlier but I went by
what was published in the RVAviator for lead times for my JIT
manufacturing technique.
Hope this helps,
If you need more infor just drop me a line.
Gary Fesenbek
RV (Roanoke, VA), 6A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hoffyrv6 [SMTP:hoffyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 6:50 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A QB
>
>
> So how do you get that 1000 pound box off the truck and into your
> garage (or
> basement in my case). When I received a tail kit and wing kit a few of
> us could
> hike it down there. I don't think I have enough friends to get a 1000
> pounds into
> my basement. Even if I did I'm not sure I could get them there when
> the truck
> shows up. How did you manage it?
>
> Fesenbek, Gary wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Your title said RV8A QB but message said RV6A QB. Guess you meant
> the
> > RV6A.
> >
> > It is best to check directly with Vans. 503-647-5117 if memory
> serves
> > me.
> >
> > Also check www.vansaircraft.com.
> >
> > The quickbuild cost sans tail sans finish kit is about 15 Gs(last
> year
> > price). Delivery time for mine was 4 weeks to pack date, 2 weeks to
> > pack and 1 week for delivery. I live in the beautiful (now thanks
> to
> > spring) Blue Ridge Mountains in Roanoke, VA. That was for a kit
> they
> > had in stock. If it is not in stock you mileage may vary.
> >
> > Hope this helps. If it is any help, the quality of the quickbuild
> is
> > excellent and it is packaged very well for shipment. Better eat
> your
> > wheaties when you get it though because the big box (fuselage)
> weighs in
> > around 1000 pounds (depending on what other orders you consolidate
> with
> > the shipment).
> >
> > Gary Fesenbek
> > Roanoke, VA
> > RV6A QB, fuselage
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Larry.K.Daudt [SMTP:B747400(at)CompuServe.com]
> > > Sent: Monday, April 06, 1998 8:31 PM
> > > To: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A QB
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Pleeze someone, state a price and approximate waiting time for the
> RV6
> > > QB.
> > > Wannabeee LKD
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
Yes there is a fix in fact. It involves cutting about 1 inch out of the
middle of the muff and reattaching the ends.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6a, Roaoke, VA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Royce Craven [SMTP:roycec(at)ozemail.com.au]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 10:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Heat Muff
>
>
> Hi,
> the heat muffs that Vans sells don't fit a Vetterman exhaust (they are
> all
> too long). I bought one not knowing this. Anyone with a fix for this
> expensive part?
>
> Thanks
>
> Royce Craven
> RV-6A Melbourne Oz
> roycece(at)ozemail.com.au
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Leg Fairings |
<< Hello Mark,
I heard that you make and sell your own gear leg fairings.
A friend of my with an RV-4 (just flying) is interested in them. What
information do you have on them?? Cost, availability, etc.
Jim Ayers
Least Drag
>>
Hello Jim!
I got a look at that little bipe Rick picked up out there a while back. Geez-
that thing makes these RV's look easy...
Yes, I make some 'glass fairings. Cost is $150/set, and the install is easy. I
have them on the shelf (if it's in stock, we have it!). Shipping seems to run
about $8-9 or so, so if you want a set, lemme know!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Buying Junk AC for parts |
An RV-4 builder/friend near me routinely gets notices from insurance
companies auctioning wrecked AC which they have totaled. We discussed
the potential advantage of stripping such a craft for instruments,
engine case, possibly the crank, maybe prop parts, and all of those
various little fittings and other small parts in the engine
compartment that nickel and dime you to death. There is a C-177RG
(Cardinal) near me in such condition which had to do a landing without
the benefit of one of the main gear. If I could get the whole banana
for a song, maybe this would be cost effective. How could my wife
*possibly* object to a junk airplane in the driveway? 8^{ Has anyone
done this?
Chris Browne
-6A RE
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
> From: BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com>
> I E-mailed Van's on Monday to inquire on a RV6 Fuselage QB only, since my
> Wings are almost finished. I was informed that the QB is only sold Wings
&
> Fusealge toether. Does anyone have a reason why.
Aren't the wing spar and associated fuselage attach bulkhead match drilled
to each other? If so, that would explain why.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
<< I bought one not knowing this. Anyone with a fix for this
expensive part? >>
Yes, return it and buy one from Larry Vetterman.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
See ya' at SNF
carried by two people.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
See ya at SNF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
<< I was informed that the QB is only sold Wings &
Fusealge toether. Does anyone have a reason why. >>
Two reasons: 1) Each wing spar is drilled to match (exactly) with the spar
carry through in the fuselage and 2) Each QB is completed as one unit
(airplane). If they were to break-up the "set" they would be left with a set
of wings with no fuselage.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
See ya at SNF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
I thought so also, however I could send them my parts and have them build it,
so I thought.
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying Junk AC for parts |
<< If I could get the whole banana for a song, maybe this would be cost
effective. >>
Its a great idea however, if the aircraft had a prop strike (I'd bet my money
that it did) you'll want to have the crank dialed in. If the crank is out of
tolerance maybe its not such a good "song" after all.
Check to see if the salvage company will allow a pre-purchase inspection. If
it is being offered "as is, where is" you might want to steer clear.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
See ya at SNF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lifting the Boxes |
I unpacked mine while it was still in the truck!
Paul Besing
>
>>So how do you get that 1000 pound box off the truck and into your garage....
>
>I didn't have that big a box but rented a hand operated "forklift" from one
>of the local rental places and used that. Of course, get one that handles
>1000 pounds and gets to the level of the back of the truck.
>
>Getting it into the basement? Open it up and take the parts down in small
>batches.
>
>Good luck and have fun (Christmas in April!)
>
>Michael
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
> I was informed that the QB is only sold Wings & Fusealge toether. Does
anyone >have a reason.......
The distance between the front and rear spar of the wings and their
respective fittings on the fuselage is fairly critical. It is going to vary
some depending on building techniques etc. I would imagine this would limit
their ability to ship just the fuselage unless you didn't build the wings
until after your fuselage arrived. Just a guess.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
Surely they explained it to you, but here goes: The wing spar is
drilled with the fuselage bulkhead that it goes with. If you already
have the wings, you already have this bulkhead. The fuselage cannot be
built without it, and a fuselage with a bulkhead not match drilled for
your wings cannot be gauranteed to fit. In fact, since the larger bolt
holes are for close-tolerance bolts, it is almost a sure thing that it
would not work. As for the idea you may have had of replacing the
bulkhead in the fuselage with the one from your wing kit, I don't think
the many other parts that tie into it would be easy to make work, not to
mention the wings that Vans would then have no matching fuselage for.
However, you may still be able to work around the problem. I don't know
if any of the shops still exist that will build a kit for you, but if
they do, you may be able to get one to assemble your fuselage kit for
you. If you have done all your work up to now and do the finishing
yourself, you should be able to make a case for the 51% rule. Or, if
you are simply weary of building, try selling your kit and buying a
completed RV. Anyway, good luck.
PatK - RV-6A
BSivori wrote:
>
> I E-mailed Van's on Monday to inquire on a RV6 Fuselage QB only, since my
> Wings are almost finished. I was informed that the QB is only sold Wings &
> Fusealge toether. Does anyone have a reason why.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjnash(at)connectnet.com (BJ Nash) |
| Subject: | Re: DO-IT-YOURSELF CARPETING? |
>>After having staggered out of the local upholstery shop suffering from sticker
>>shock (It seems my airplane is the equivalent of a good-sized living room when
>>it comes to carpeting cost) I started to think about do-it-yourself.
>>
>>Has anyone had experience either with do-it-yourself kits, or knows of a
>>source of FAA-approved carpet by the yard? It seems it wouldn't be much of a
>>job to cut and fit the carpet. A local rug company would probably even
bind
>>it for me as necessary.
>>
>>Also, there is the remains of some sound/heat insulation under the carpet.
>>What is this stuff and where can you get more?
>>
>>Thanks
>>-Larry Proulx
You need our Booklet "How to Soundproof Light Aircraft" available from
Wicks, Wag-aero and Aircraft Spruce. We'll send you a copy Free!
This little "HOW TO" manual was first written in 1992 for the aircraft
mechanic, but is simple enough to follow for the handy plane owner or
homebuilder. It's been recently updated with more info and now
provides info on boats, cars, home and office! Covers materials,
application and fire safety, FAA regulations, certs, sources, etc.
You can get a text file of it (no illustrations) by return e-mail
from our MAILBOT:
soundprf(at)pdsig.n2.net
nothing is needed in the text message. Or send your name and address
for a free hard copy (with illustrations) by return US mail. A web
page is at:
http://www.freeyellow.com/members/aircraft-reman/page4.html
It links to our site below.
("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._ Will Nash
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`) Super Soundproofing Co.
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `.``-..-' 1291 E. Vista Way, #150
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,' Vista, Ca 92084 (760)-749-7049
(((),-'' (((),' (((.-' Email: bjnash(at)connectnet.com
SoundProofing Web Site: http://aircraft_r.321media.com/sphome.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Length |
I cut my sticks down right away on my 6A
I find the lower position is just a more natural way to hold the stick.
Also being able to steady your arm on your leg minimizes the possibility
of over controlling.
As far as increased stick pressures, yes, I'm sure they are a little
heavier, but they are still a whole lot lighter than anything else I
have ever flown. I think what's more important than light stick
pressures are smooth and consistent pressures, and that is something the
RV is very good at.
They also look better.
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Tom Martin wrote:
>
>
> If I could make a suggestion, leave this part unfinished until you mount
> the wings to the fuse. Sometimes the flap is too close to the body of the
> aircraft and the flap can then be adjusted to fit. The whole thing will make
> sense when you see where it is supposed to go.
>
> Tom Martin
>
Tom is right, it's a big can-o-worms if the flap is too close to the
fuselage. ask me how I know?
Craig Hiers
RV-4
TLH,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A fuselage riveting question |
>Hello,
>
>I have the RV-6A fuselage upside down in the jig. I'm riveting
on the
>bottom and side skins. I will want to remove the F-672 floor
skin under the
>rudder pedals, so that I can mount the wings and drill the
landing gear
>mount.
>
>I want to leave out enough rivets in the F-670 side skins to
make it
>easy to take the F-672 bottom skin off and put it on again some
day. How
>much of the lower part of the F-670's should I leave without
rivets?
>
>the ThThe advice I divine from the Frank Justice construction
notes are to drive no rivets within 8 inches of the F-672,
>but that looks excessive to me. I want the fuselage to be as
stiff as
>possible while I mount the wings and all of that ...
Any advice from those who have been there?
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: Buying Junk AC for parts |
>
>
>
> An RV-4 builder/friend near me routinely gets notices from insurance
> companies auctioning wrecked AC which they have totaled. We discussed
> the potential advantage of stripping such a craft for instruments,
> engine case, possibly the crank, maybe prop parts, and all of those
> various little fittings and other small parts in the engine
> compartment that nickel and dime you to death. There is a C-177RG
> (Cardinal) near me in such condition which had to do a landing without
> the benefit of one of the main gear. If I could get the whole banana
> for a song, maybe this would be cost effective. How could my wife
> *possibly* object to a junk airplane in the driveway? 8^{ Has anyone
> done this?
>
> Chris Browne
> -6A RE
> Atlanta
I'll share my experiences with this. About a year ago I purchased a salvage
from Avemco(Loss Management). In fact, I was in Florida at Sun & Fun, the
plane was in Orlando. After talking and pricing parts from all the salvage
companies at S&F - that'll get your head screwed up - I decided to make a
bid(sealed) on this Lake Buchaneer. It was a fuel starvation accident and
with the rear facing engine and the fact that it never made it to the
ground, I felt okay about the lack of a prop strike.
This plane had a turbocharged IO-360 A1B. My first call was to an
advertiser in trade-a-plane who specialized in Lakes(Lake Central). He was
very positive about the whole scenario. To make a long story shorter, we
effectively became partners. He purchased everything I did not want or
could not use. He valued the turbo alone at $5000. The prop, which turned
out to be bad, was $3000 - pusher props have good value if they are good.
And the balance was $2000. Although the prop was sour I think he still came
out pretty well. Lake parts can be extraordinarily expensive. For example
the windshield door frame is worth $3000.
I ended up with an engine(200hp) 765hrs, flight instruments, and some
radios, all for a little more than the cost of an engine core. That is if
there is no accounting for time, worry, and effort. We don't account for
that do we? Transportation from Orlando to Nashville was not that bad - two
days and (Penske).
There are no guarrantees and lots of issues to be faced, but I think right
now with the number of storm damaged planes out there, there has never been
a better time to be looking at these. Avemco is now listing on
www.barnstormers.com. AIG has a site also.
I would be happy to share, in more detail, my experiences by phone or on
the list.
Shelby in Nashville.
Fuselage started(Finally)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying Junk AC for parts |
> An RV-4 builder/friend near me routinely gets notices from insurance
> companies auctioning wrecked AC which they have totaled. We discussed
> the potential advantage of stripping such a craft for instruments,
> engine case, possibly the crank, maybe prop parts, and all of those
> various little fittings and other small parts in the engine
> compartment that nickel and dime you to death. There is a C-177RG
> (Cardinal) near me in such condition which had to do a landing without
> the benefit of one of the main gear. If I could get the whole banana
> for a song, maybe this would be cost effective. How could my wife
> *possibly* object to a junk airplane in the driveway? 8^{ Has anyone
> done this?
> Chris Browne
Chris,
Yep. I bought a wrecked, Cherokee 140 for $4000.00 back in 1985, or so.
It had been landed on a gravel road & ran into a ditch, crumpling the aft
section of the fuselage and wrecking one wing. The owners had a new prop
and a new wing and had intended on re-building but never got around to it.
I disassembled the engine and sent the crank, cam, etc. out as the engine
had a prop strike. Everything checked out OK. The cylinders were in first
class shape. My overhaul cost was around $4,800. I had the gyros
overhauled, stuck the vacuum pump on my six and everything has been workink
fine for 400 hours. I sold enough Cherokee parts that I ended up with a
free core and I still have a wing, landing gear, exhaust system and cowling
parts that I need to get rid of. All in all, it worked out well for me.
I know you can't expect to buy a wreck that cheaply, now, but, back in 85,
$4,000 went alot farther than it does now.
Bob Skinner RV-6 405 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Length |
<< I cut my sticks down right away on my 6A
I find the lower position is just a more natural way to hold the stick.
Also being able to steady your arm on your leg minimizes the possibility
of over controlling.
As far as increased stick pressures, yes, I'm sure they are a little
heavier, but they are still a whole lot lighter than anything else I
have ever flown. I think what's more important than light stick
pressures are smooth and consistent pressures, and that is something the
RV is very good at. >>
Andy-
I agree with you 100% and could not have said it better. The long stick is
just unnatural IMO. Kind of like those craaaazy folks who install that huge
manual flap handle protruding into the cabin (too high a goose potential upon
entry). The control harmony is really a non-issue because the stick (aileron
and elevator) is so light to start with and the rudder a little heavier to my
sense.
For the kind of flying I do (cross-country and mild aerobatics), I like the
great control feel with my sticks cut down and would recommend it to all
except those pilots that (a) were trained in Citabrias and want the greater
stick movement to avoid over controlling or (b) because they do so many power
aerobatics their arms would start looking like Popeye's if they didn't have
the lesser forces afforded by the longer arm.
Different sticks for different tricks,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>
><< Van's are very good about accepting parts back (yeah, I know the shipping
> is murder). The Vetterman muffs are excellent.
> >>
>Royce,
> I agree, see if vans will accept the heat muff you have for a
>credit. Larry Vetterman does not make a heat muff. These are made by Rick
>Robbins for the Vetterman Exaust. Like I always say, give credit where
credits
>due. You will find these to be one of the finest quality products of anything
>you purchase for your airplane.
>Rick Robbins (303)-422-9389 Colorado number
My apologies to Rick Robbins, his flyer comes with the Vetterman exhaust
and I mistakenly failed to give credit. The confusion is easy as they are
of the same (superb) quality as the exhausts Mr Vetterman makes.
Sorry
Leo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
Here's a new one. How does one go about tinting the canopy? I live in
sunny Arizona where it is bright, and hot in the summer, and I do not want
my black hair on my head burning!
Any suggestions?
Paul Besing
RV-6A
controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A fuselage riveting question |
>
> >Hello,
> >
> >I have the RV-6A fuselage upside down in the jig. I'm riveting
>on the
> >bottom and side skins. I will want to remove the F-672 floor
>skin under the
> >rudder pedals, so that I can mount the wings and drill the
>landing gear
> >mount.
> >
> >I want to leave out enough rivets in the F-670 side skins to
>make it
> >easy to take the F-672 bottom skin off and put it on again some
>day. How
> >much of the lower part of the F-670's should I leave without
>rivets?
> >
> >the ThThe advice I divine from the Frank Justice construction
>notes are to drive no rivets within 8 inches of the F-672,
> >but that looks excessive to me. I want the fuselage to be as
>stiff as
> >possible while I mount the wings and all of that ...
>
>
> Any advice from those who have been there?
> >
> >Steve Soule
> >Huntington, Vermont
Steve,
I don't have my plans in front of me so the part numbers are difficult but
I do have a picture of my 6A having its gear legs drilled (successfully) on
the wall of my office.
The skins on are the tail cone skins and the side skins. I had no floor
skins under the foot, seat or baggage areas. With the fuse still attached
to the jig rigidity was no problem. (Moving the jig and fuse out into the
garden and levelling it took an hour or two however.
The Frank Justice instructions worked for me every time, if Frank suggests
something and you are not sure what to do you are unlikely to get into
trouble following his lead. (Does anyone hear from Frank?)
Cheers,
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Dear List,
I am wrestling with instrument panel issues and am about to order a bunch
of stuff from Aircraft spruce for my vaccuum system. Having figured out
that I need a pump, a regulator, a filter and the gyro instrument (A/H only
in my system) I am left with hooking it all up. The Spruce catelogue lists
various sized ports for their vac regulator but doesn't mention what size
the ports on the pump are.
In addition I am not sure what hosing to use to connect the whole mess up
and how people normally get through the firewall. Does anyone have a quick
list of the bits they used to create a vaccuum system?
Cheers,
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
Van's muff can be made to work by placing it on the left stack and blocking
one of the exit tubes, the one that would otherwise point straight into the
carburetor. I ground the pipe off the side of the muff and pop-riveted a
plate over it with some high-temp RTV to seal it. Added a Y-connector to the
remaining output and *voila* two outputs to the cabil heat boxes. No problems
fitting Van's muff, full-length, to the Vetterman crossover on the O-320 using
this method. Still don't know how it will work, however, as it doesn't become
a real airplane until next month ;-(
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CFI RVer in the SE? |
For any that are looking for a CFI in the SE that flies regularly let me
introduce myself. Name is John Henley and I fly my newly completed RV6
out of the Yellow River airport in Holt, Fl (FD93). It is located at the
CEW 200/9.1 and consists of a 2500 grass strip. I can travel to you or
vice versa.
I am a retired AF Colonel with approx 6500 hours,mostly in terrain
following C-130s and have ATP, CFI and CFII ratings. I will be having
surgery on my neck soon so will be out of action for about a month. After
that I am open. If interested, respond to me directly at grihen(at)juno.com
or call me at 850-939-6432.
John Henley, N6LD, Flying
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144 <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> |
> From: BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com>
> I E-mailed Van's on Monday to inquire on a RV6 Fuselage QB only, since my
> Wings are almost finished. I was informed that the QB is only sold Wings
&
> Fusealge toether. Does anyone have a reason why.
>Aren't the wing spar and associated fuselage attach bulkhead match drilled
>to each other? If so, that would explain why.
>Rob (RV-6Q).
A year or so ago I asked about getting a QB fuse to go with my garage built
wings and tail. The answer was that the wing spars and carry through
structure are matched, so a new fuse might not match my spars. Also, Van's
didn't want to take back my spar carry through bulkhead and incorporate it
into a QB fuse... Too much hassle.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Horace W Weeks <74664.2105(at)compuserve.com> |
Leo,
This is what i bought for a vacuum a/h & dg:
________________________________________________________________________________
1- P/N 2H3-12 regulator $195.00
1- P/N 1J7-1 gyro filter $39.00
1- 1k8-6-10 hose fitting $59.00
1- 1K9-6-10 hose fitting $35.00
2 -1K31-4-6-4 tee hose fittings $59.00ea $118.00
2- 1K10-4-4 hose fitting $49.00ea $98.00
1- Sigma-tek 1U128 vacuum pump $359.00
________________________________________________________________________________
6ft.- 306-4H hose 1/4"id $2.25/ft $13.50
5ft.- 306-6H hose 3/8"id $2.94/ft $14.70
3ft.- 306-10H hose 5/8"id $4.69/ft $14.07
4 - 133-706R clamp $.37ea $1.48
10 - 170-706R clamp $.37ea $3.70
My a/h & dg both had 1/4"npt ports that items 3 and 4 fit into. The vacuum
pump has 3/8"npt ports.
Call if i can help.
Ace Weeks 74664.2105@compuserve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
<< How does one go about tinting the canopy? >>
I have heard that unless you order the "clear" canopy, you will recieve a
canopy that has a gray tint to it. Many folks have ordered their kit with a
clear canopy and have said if they did it again, they would take the stock
canopy.
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343 <JDaniel343(at)aol.com> |
Where are these photos located.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Here's a new one. How does one go about tinting the canopy? I live in
> sunny Arizona where it is bright, and hot in the summer, and I do not want
> my black hair on my head burning!
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A
> controls
>
To keep the sun out purchase a package of the "stick-on" plastic sun
shades from the RV Bag - Van's relative - they stick on by static
attraction, can be removed without leaving any trace of their presence
and can be trimmed so that two of them (they come 4 in a package) just
fit over the canopy. I have used them for several years and they work
fine. They only cost a few bucks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Intersection fairings |
I just made a new set of well fitting gear intersection fairings (fuselage
to gear fairings). Am using the aluminum gear fairings from VANs on my RV-4.
What are suggesstions for attaching the intersection fairings? They area
fairly stiff and I am afraid of cracks if I attach too firmly as the gear
flexes on landing.
Thanks for ideas.
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
<< Here's a new one. How does one go about tinting the canopy? I live in
sunny Arizona where it is bright, and hot in the summer, and I do not want
my black hair on my head burning!
Any suggestions?
Paul Besing
RV-6A
controls
>>
Not a new one! I used some Gila brand static cling tint on the top of my
canopy. I use the mat'l with holes in it, as it will cling to the curves
easily. Wal-mart or Pep-Boys was the supplier. This stuff was to be used on
the back window of a pickup, so that should give you some idea of the
dimensions. It has caused no harm to the plexi (perspex).
Sure helps the neck!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
hoffyrv6 wrote:
>
>
> So how do you get that 1000 pound box off the truck and into your garage (or
> basement in my case).
My $.02 worth:
A small forklift, or bobcat with pallet forks would be a good approach.
Cost is less than a hernia operation, broken bones, or broken qb!!
martin shorman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lifting the Boxes |
Sounds like that box is big enouigh to live in. HA!!!
LKDRV8Wannabee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
HI All,
Progress report: What I found and what I did:
MY high oil temps were due to having a sender which was not compatible to
the gauge. Changed same and now all is well, confirmed by a cyl. head temp
gauge that reads in the normal range.
Left wing heavy was corrected by pinching down the trailing edge of
LIGHT wing. Did it too much and right wing became heavy. Undid this by
taking a soft(ish) cedar block and smacking judiciously with rubber mallet
to undo the too tight squeeze. Now flies hands off, but may need a tad of
rudder trim.
Electric tach reads too high as calibrated against a prop tach check
device.
(I thought elec. tach was accurate..silly me). At real rpm, I show 155 mph
at 2250 rpm as verified by formated RV and radio calls giving GPS readout.
At 2650, showing 185 mph (yes I know, fresh outflow wind made me look
good).
OK, here is where I come clean and tell of my break-in to pilot an
RV. Might give encouragement to those who have only flown Cessna/rentals
etc. (No put down intended). I am an older fart, last flew solo in a 172 2
years ago, last taildragger solo in a TIRED old J5 Cub 10 years ago. I had
three sessions with a very good commercial pilot who is the resident RV
guru and high RV timer.
Shot 10 landings in that time. First landing best one. Remainder mixed
between pretty good, so-so, and laughable. Well, I soloed it today, all
went well, landings good (I thought). rolls beautifully on rollout.
Straight and honest.
I need to lengthen flap handle (don't cut it down), as it is very hard to
get last notch as my elbow is up near my ear. I found that take-off is easy
and more rudder is called for once you climb out. Visibility is wonderful,
response to control input is velvet and very little effort and movement. I
hardly ever touch the trim. Nicer than anything I have had a ride in except
another RV.
I am so happy to be at this stage. Only small squawks like radio
reception and intercom to look at. My soldering must be primitive.
So there you are. I know it isn't smart to relate how out of currency I
am and how much rust has to be knocked off to make me a good pilot, and I
am truly not saying "look at smart ass me for doing this" I just felt that
now was as good a time as any since I was just back from an hours dual and
since the start my instructor never touched the controls at any time...I
liked the feel of the airplane and it is honest and the wind was
reasonable, so I went for it.
There, I made my confession and the flame suit is on and I live 1 block
from the fire-hall, so have at it....Your welcome...................Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Length |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Different sticks for different tricks,
>-GV
>
>
>
Exactly! And since there are a lot of different preferences as far as
stick length goes, how can we just recommend that what is good for me is
good for you.
Hence, the recommendation to plan your installation to allow for easily
trimming the stick length (don't permanently attach any stick grips,
etc.) and then wait until you fly the airplane so that you can decide for
your self.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com |
It's because the wing spar is drilled in the jig with fuslage bulkhead it
mates to.
Wing spars and fuslage 'mating bulkhead' are not interchangable.
Cecil
>
>I E-mailed Van's on Monday to inquire on a RV6 Fuselage QB only, since
>my
>Wings are almost finished. I was informed that the QB is only sold
>Wings &
>Fusealge toether. Does anyone have a reason why.
_____________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
>
>> From: BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com>
>> I E-mailed Van's on Monday to inquire on a RV6 Fuselage QB only, since my
>> Wings are almost finished. I was informed that the QB is only sold Wings
>&
>> Fusealge toether. Does anyone have a reason why.
>
>Aren't the wing spar and associated fuselage attach bulkhead match drilled
>to each other? If so, that would explain why.
>
>Rob (RV-6Q).
>
Rob,
This is correct. The spars and the spar carry-through's are match drilled
in a jig so that dihedral is pre-set and this critical dimension is a done deal.
Regards,
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Wing Spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A fuselage riveting question |
>The Frank Justice instructions worked for me every time, if Frank suggests
>something and you are not sure what to do you are unlikely to get into
>trouble following his lead. (Does anyone hear from Frank?)
>
>Cheers,
>
>Leo Davies
>
I saw Frank last Saturday. After collecting money all morning for our EAA
Chapter 105 fly-in breakfast, he had a big smile on his face and was heading
for his -6A parked in front of his hangar. Lucky dog!!
Regards,
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Wing Spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
<< shades from the RV Bag - Van's relative - >>
Actually, the RV-Bag is not Van's relative; if she were, she'd probably deck
you for calling her that. But, a relative of Van does own a business by that
name
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A fuselage riveting question |
> >bottom and side skins. I will want to remove the F-672 floor
> skin under the
> >rudder pedals, so that I can mount the wings and drill the
> landing gear
> >mount.
> >
> >I want to leave out enough rivets in the F-670 side skins to
> make it
> >easy to take the F-672 bottom skin off and put it on again some
> day. How
> >much of the lower part of the F-670's should I leave without
> rivets?
I still haven't riveted the side skins forward of the F604 bulkheads (only
the aft row in 604 is done), nor have I riveted the fwd bottom skin on, and
I am just about done with the slider canopy. It sure makes for easy
access. Good general advice is to delay any riveting as long as possible.
Just need lots of clecoes. I don't plan to rivet on top fwd skin until
after instrument panel has been completed, either.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
| From: | jepilot(at)Juno.com (J E REHLER) |
Austin - thanks for the report. A pleasant read.
J. E. Rehler RV6A flying, Corpus Christi, Texas, W5KNZ
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Intersection fairings : Richard Bibb |
Richard,
I just put mine on 3 weeks ago. I split mine at the aft end to
allow installation. I have 3 screws evenly spaced across the top
half,(One in front, slightly low, one in middle, one at far back
end). I epoxied in a small wood block near the split in the back
so i could put a screw in to hold the split together. I have no
screws in the bottom half of the fairing, this allows the fairing
to flex with the gear leg without breaking anything. Stays tight
fitting, and no cracks yet in about 15 hours. I plan on
installing nut plates where I am using sheet metal screws right
now as soon as i get (take) time to finish them for painting.
Good luck. I noticed no difference in speed since I installed
them, for what it;s worth. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
I have put it off too long.
I am planing manuel flaps on my 6A. Am working on the F605 bulkhead.
What would it take to switch to Electric flaps? do I need a different
weldment?
I know it costs a motor.
Don Jordan~~ 6A-fuselage~~ Arlington,Tx
donspawn(at)juno.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 canopy (side-hinged tip-up) |
I'm cutting and fitting and cutting and ...
Is there any good reason not to have the 1/2" tube/bow stop at about the
forward top skin instead of following the canopy all around the front?
With a fairly precise fitting and maybe a thin rubber seal glued to the
bottom of the canopy edge (or on top of the forward fuselage skin) it
would eliminate the need for the forward canopy/skin fairing and give
1/2 - 1" better view.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
Leo Davies wrote:
>
> In addition I am not sure what hosing to use to connect the whole mess up
> and how people normally get through the firewall. Does anyone have a quick
> list of the bits they used to create a vaccuum system?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Leo Davies
>
Leo
Sorry it has been so long ago that I built my airplane that I don't remember all
of
the hose sizes etc. without looking them up. But I can tell you that the regulator
that I used mounts to the firewall on the inside with the port going through the
fire wall sorta
like a firewall fitting with the nut screwed on from the engine side.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
<< I am wrestling with instrument panel issues and am about to order a bunch
of stuff from Aircraft spruce for my vaccuum system. Having figured out
that I need a pump, a regulator, a filter and the gyro instrument (A/H only
in my system) I am left with hooking it all up. The Spruce catelogue lists
various sized ports for their vac regulator but doesn't mention what size
the ports on the pump are.
In addition I am not sure what hosing to use to connect the whole mess up
and how people normally get through the firewall. Does anyone have a quick
list of the bits they used to create a vaccuum system? >>
Leo-
Rapco sells a Complete Vacuum System Kit that includes everything but the gyro
instruments. If you have (or can borrow) the April 98 issue of Kitplanes, it
is detailed on page 65. As they say, one picture is worth a thousand words.
If you still want to part it out, e-mail me direct. I will go through the ACS
catalog and make a list for you.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
The same "stick-on" plastic tinting can be bougnt at Wal-Mart and most auto parts
stores.
John W. Fasching wrote:
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> >
> > Here's a new one. How does one go about tinting the canopy? I live in
> > sunny Arizona where it is bright, and hot in the summer, and I do not want
> > my black hair on my head burning!
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A
> > controls
> >
> To keep the sun out purchase a package of the "stick-on" plastic sun
> shades from the RV Bag - Van's relative - they stick on by static
> attraction, can be removed without leaving any trace of their presence
> and can be trimmed so that two of them (they come 4 in a package) just
> fit over the canopy. I have used them for several years and they work
> fine. They only cost a few bucks.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Intersection fairings |
----------
> From: Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Gear Intersection fairings
> Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 6:52 PM
> What are suggesstions for attaching the intersection fairings? They area
> fairly stiff and I am afraid of cracks if I attach too firmly as the gear
> flexes on landing.
> Thanks for ideas.
> Richard E. Bibb
> RV-4 N144KT
> Oak Hill, VA
> rbibb(at)fore.com
Richard,
I riveted metel tabs to the inside or the fairings (top and bottom) and
attached
a piece of wire to each going to the inside of the cowling. Then I attached a
spring to the wire and attached the spring to the landing gear. It's holds the
farings in place without having to attach the fairing with screws. Alot of
people
do it this way.
Jim
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Overhead Rudder Pedals |
Can someone tell me what "overhead" rudder pedals are?
Thanks
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)
Controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com> |
Just make sure you dont use ac switches instead of DC I found this out the
hard way on another ACFT
Joe/fuselage
----------
> From: Rvmils <Rvmils(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: wiring
> Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 7:36 AM
>
>
> I went by radio shack and it sure looks like I would save alot of money
if I
> went with their switches, wire strips, and circuit breakers instead of
Van's
> circuit breaker switches and bus bar(accessories catalog p.39). Is this
the
> standard or do you guys normally go with the radio shack stuff.
>
> 23 more days...
> Carey Mills
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
>Here's a new one. How does one go about tinting the canopy? I live in
>sunny Arizona where it is bright, and hot in the summer, and I do not want
>my black hair on my head burning!
>Any suggestions?
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A
I looked at dyeing the canopy darker overhead and visited my local optician
who showed me the dyes they use to do the gradient tint on prescription
lenses. They are from a company called "Brain Power, Inc." They need to
be heated and to have the plastic immersed in them for prolonged periods to
infuse into the plastic. I scratched it off as impractical and expensive
and went looking for other solutions.
Find a 2-place "Grumman" AA-1x and look at their factory canopy sun shield.
It is a 1/16" formed plexi part that matches the canopy curve and attaches
with clips front and rear. Shouldn't be too hard to do the same with an RV
canopy (at least the -6 and -6A). Several densities of color are available
from plastics houses, you might even get together with Van's on who forms
their canopies and have them form you a matching sun shade. This might
work out to be an accessory for Van's to sell to those of us who live in
the sunnier climes. Or an enterprising RV builder might get them made and
sell them to -6x flyers who have blisters on their heads form lack of sun
screen.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Lifting the Boxes |
Listers: Larry wrote a really good idea:
>Sounds like that box is big enouigh to live in. HA!!!
>
Actually, I think that the box will be big enough to live in, but your
spouse will start making little noises that you wouldn't want to hear.
However, I have a couple of suggestions for you.
First, sort out all the little stuff that came in the box, and put it
together. You won't be able to live in that either - but you'll want to!!
Second, take the box to any one of the many remote, unimproved airports, as
a portable potty. If this catches on, we could establish a non-profit
foundation so that they can be set up at little airports all over the place.
Each building would have a sign like "This moment is brought to you by
another happy RV builder". Larger pilots (who can't sit in the back seat of
an RV-4) will be restricted from "Number 2".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Just make sure you dont use ac switches instead of DC I found this out the
>hard way on another ACFT
>
>Joe/fuselage
May I recommend an article available at:
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html>
wher you can download the title:
"Switch Ratings - What Does it all Mean?"
BTW, I got a call from some guy at MicroSwitch
who was interested in the original source material
that prompted my production of this article. He
said that since MicroSwitch was mentioned in
the articles, he'd like to have his engineering
department review what was written to see if there
was any disagreement (or perhaps bad words about
MicroSwitch that needed rebuttal?).
I gave him the data I'd reviewed and never heard
from them again. I'll guess they were satisfied
with what they read.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
>
> Electric tach reads too high as calibrated against a prop tach check
> device.
So Austin, what brand electric tach should I be avoiding while I plan my
panel? I too thought all electrics would be spot on, the tach I really
like looks-wise is mechanical but want accuracy.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
> Rapco sells a Complete Vacuum System Kit that includes everything but the
gyro
> instruments. If you have (or can borrow) the April 98 issue of
Kitplanes, it
> is detailed on page 65. As they say, one picture is worth a thousand
words.
Good ad, the Rapco people were nice enough to list all the components.
Using the list I looked up prices from Chief, Wag-Aero (*much* cheaper than
Chief for Airborne fittings), Wicks, and ASS. I found you can make up your
own "kit" for about $100 less.
Rob (RV-6Q).
y build the fuse using the customer's parts, ship the
completed wings and fuse back to Van's, and then to the customer. Yuck.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Rudder Pedals |
Paul, "Overhead" in the RV context refers to the mounting position for the Rudder
pedals. Older RV-6s had hinge point of rudder pedals mounted to the floor, later
versions hinge points are on the sides of the fuselage above the feet or
"Overhead", "Overfeet" would be a closer descriptive term than "Overhead".
Ed
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Can someone tell me what "overhead" rudder pedals are?
>
> Thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
<< The same "stick-on" plastic tinting can be bougnt at Wal-Mart and most auto
parts
stores. >>
Friends don't let friends shop at Wal-Mart.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVator <RVator(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
Congratulations Austin !! Sounds like you've got a great flying airplane !
Steve Schmitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Rudder Pedals |
<< Can someone tell me what "overhead" rudder pedals are? >>
overhead pedals hang down as opposed to the old style that have the hinge
point below the pedals.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Young <gyoung(at)bcm.tmc.edu> |
| Subject: | Overhead Rudder Pedals |
>
> Can someone tell me what "overhead" rudder pedals are?
>
They are the style you probably have in your kit unless it's pretty old.
The pedals hang down from the support tubes which are mounted to the
horizontal angles about mid-way up the fuselage sides. If you have the
older style floor mounted type you can get the parts from Van's to switch
to the overhead style. The overhead style seems much better since it
leaves the floor uncluttered and doesn't need return springs.
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) fuselage - controls and panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McCall <mccall(at)cayman.ds.boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Rudder Pedals |
On Thu, 9 Apr 1998, Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Can someone tell me what "overhead" rudder pedals are?
Obviously, they're to be used when you're upside down, doing aerobatics...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Rudder Pedals |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Can someone tell me what "overhead" rudder pedals are?
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB)
> Controls
> Answer: Overhead rudder pedals are merely pedals suspended from above, rather
than anchored and pivoted on the floor of the plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Luker, Michael G." <luker.michael(at)mayo.edu> |
Fellow builders and flyers,
I need to build a hanger and I'm looking for anyone on the list who
may have a lead on building an inexpensive(not cheap) hanger from
scratch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kbeene <Kbeene(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
I used the Rapco kit and have been happy with it. When you price out the
individual parts it comes to about the $850 list price. I was happy to find
that the kit is discounted when ordering from the suppliers. I think that I
paid $650 from Varga.
Ken Beene
Burnsville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
Leo Davies wrote:
>
>
> Dear List,
>
> I am wrestling with instrument panel issues and am about to order a bunch
> of stuff from Aircraft spruce for my vaccuum system. Having figured out
> that I need a pump, a regulator, a filter and the gyro instrument (A/H only
> in my system) I am left with hooking it all up. The Spruce catelogue lists
> various sized ports for their vac regulator but doesn't mention what size
> the ports on the pump are.
>
> In addition I am not sure what hosing to use to connect the whole mess up
> and how people normally get through the firewall. Does anyone have a quick
> list of the bits they used to create a vaccuum system?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Leo Davies
Hi Leo,
I called Parker-Hannifin today for advice about the best design for my vacuum
system. I recall talking with someone from Parker last summer at Oshkosh.
He recommended a pressure system rather than a vacuum system and explained
why. (Now that I'm 66 and brain-dead, I have an excuse for not remembering
all of that conversation.) In any event, the chief technical guru wasn't in
today, but I'm expecting a call back from him on Monday. If you can wait
until you hear from me in a few days to place your order to Spruce, perhaps
we can both profit from his advice. BTW, one of their technical pamphlets
says, "Installation of a back-up power source for the air driven gyros or a
back-up electric attitude gyro is recommended in all single-engine aircraft
which fly IFR."
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin Tinckler" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
>
> So Austin, what brand electric tach should I be avoiding while I plan my
> panel? I too thought all electrics would be spot on, the tach I really
> like looks-wise is mechanical but want accuracy.
Mine was a Westach by Westberg out of A/C Spruce. They can put an external
adj. on it, or a sensor from the tach drive for another $40. Next time I
would go for a digital made by Taskem of Mass. seen in back of Sport Av.
mag.
BTW, a friend has a $360 unit by E.I. (Van's catalog), and it was wonky
right off the bat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Here's a new one. How does one go about tinting the canopy? I live in
> sunny Arizona where it is bright, and hot in the summer, and I do not want
> my black hair on my head burning!
>
> Paul Besing
Hi Paul,
If you want a really effective (and elegant) solution to the problem of
cockpit heating through the canopy, I suggest that you contact Aero Sound
Shield in Van Nuys, California at (818) 374-5355. Ask for Olin. He uses a
process that deposits a 7 micron thick layer of 24 karat gold on canopies
in a vacuum chamber. This deposit is then covered with a hardcoat that is
virtually impervious to scratches. The gold deposit blocks something near
99 percent of the IR energy from the sun. He also provides firewall shields
and soundproofing treatments. Olin informs me that the finished result
still transmits 70 percent of the incident light, an FAA requirement.
Olin will soon visit my own project. I will probably be able to provide
additional details after that.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Hi,
I've never built a hangar but would if I had the space! I built one house and
rebuilt several others. When I say "I built" I mean I sawed, hammered,
plumbed, wired etc.
I built an add-on carport on my workshop up in the forests of Washington State.
I did that from scratch. I cut some proper sized trees, skinned off the bark
etc. You don't want to do that.
For an RV or even Debonair sized plane, I should think some of the standard
bookstore books on building a small house would be very good. These small
house designs tend to be 30 by 40 feet or so with eight foot ceilings. The
shell for one of these builds pretty fast and is easy if you do it exactly
according to custom. The floor and foundations can be one concrete (thick
edge) slab. Then you build four walls on the slab and tilt them up. Stick on
some trusses and cover with roofing! Minnesota climate (??) may require
something different. If it is a success, your wife may be asking for a house!
You are probably familiar with the steel buildings available.
There was a small book written by a guy named Bonniksen (sp?) in or for the
State of Oregon. He illustrated many clever material and labor saving
buildings for the farmer. He had a machine shed that would be ideal as a
hangar. Check your library.
If you have trouble finding book titles, I'll look for mine at home.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Horace W Weeks <74664.2105(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
Listers,
Fox Lite Inc. in Fairborn, Ohio makes all of Van's canopys and many others
used on homebuilts. Their product line includes sky lights for home and
industrial use. Many are tinted in dark and gold shades. They are
extremely helpful to RV builders! I took my uncut canopy to their factory
and they helped me lay it in a female RV-6 mold and then mark all trim
lines for the RV-6 slider/windshield. If there was enough interest, they
may make some sun shades for us.
Their address is:
Fox Lite Inc.
8300 Dayton Road
Fairborn, Ohio 45324
(937)864-1966
Ace Weeks RV-6 at fiberglass stage
7664-2105@compuserve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | RV-List:Hartzell Prop Governors |
I have a Hartzell Prop governor and understand they may be a little tight
in fitting in the standard firewall recess.
Anyone with experience - please let me know.
Thanks,
Shelby Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
>
> I used the Rapco kit and have been happy with it. When you price out the
> individual parts it comes to about the $850 list price. I was happy to
find
> that the kit is discounted when ordering from the suppliers. I think
that I
> paid $650 from Varga.
Well...I'll have to take back my previous post then. I priced out the
individual parts at $750 from various suppliers, if you can buy the Rapco
kit for $650 that's a much better deal.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas |
----------
> From: Rob Acker <n164ra(at)mindspring.com>
> To: Mitch Faatz
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Coax Cable, (new) making antennas
> Date: Monday, April 06, 1998 5:38 PM
>
> > From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com>
> >
> > Did you purchase one of these? This sure sounds cheaper than the
> > external antenna quoted by SkyForce.
>
> Mitch,
>
> It was the outrageous cost of the Skyforce antenna that led me to
tracking
> down a cheaper alternative. The Skymap II requires a standard spec
active
> +5vdc +26db antenna, which the Lowe antenna is...and no I haven't flown
it.
>
> However, I've had several e-mail exchanges with the owner of the outfit.
> He's a homebuilder (Jodel) and using it on his plane (as well as several
of
> his flying buddies).
>
> Also on the web site, there's a comparison of this antenna to several
> others. Turns out it's an OEM version of the Terra-Trimble aviation gps
> antenna...so for $65 vs. Skyforce's $394 I'd risk trying it out.
>
> Rob (RV-6Q in $$$ halted mode).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Rudder Pedals |
<< Can someone tell me what "overhead" rudder pedals are? >>
The pivot point is above the pedal, not below.
All of the new pedals, since 1994 on the 6/6A, are overhead or hanging pedals.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Gauge Quality: was Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
>
> > So Austin, what brand electric tach should I be avoiding....
> Mine was a Westach by Westberg out of A/C Spruce.
That confirms what I have heard about Westach gauges, and UMA seems a real
close
runner to them. Bad stuff both?
> BTW, a friend has a $360 unit by E.I. (Van's catalog), and it was wonky
> right off the bat.
Wonky? I like the sound of that word...but I assume it means bad. That
totally
unconfirms what I have heard about E.I. gauges.
Can anybody comment on Mitchell 2 1/4" mechanical tachs?
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
<< Or an enterprising RV builder might get them made and
sell them to -6x flyers who have blisters on their heads form lack of sun
screen. >>
You can also avoid these nasty blisters by flying upside down!
Jim Nice
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Graf <markgraf(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
RE: Tinted Canopies
I fly a 6 an have good luck with the stick on vinals. Just remember to
remove them if the aircraft is to be parked with the canopy closed on a
hot summer day. I have a friend that had the plex warp (just a little)
when he left his sunshade on.
Another opttion is to paint the outter surface of the canopy just where
you want the shade. It is permanent, low cost, and did the job well
acording to the pilot/builder (Pheonix area) I saw this on one six, and
it didn't look bad at all.>
Mark Graf
N71CG RV-6 150hp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
Guy's
Hangars ( Aircraft Type ) are a nightmare to Plan & Build - And to make
matters worse, build one in NY on State Leased Land. I have built 2 Hangars
14,000 SqFt and 21,000 SqFt - both took over 5 years to get the States
Approval to get a building permit. The actual construction is a snap, it
takes more time to plan.
Once your gonna park a plane with Aircraft Grade Fuel - all the rules change.
All electrical devices must be expolsion proof ( special boxes ) and every
thing must be in pipe forget about BX or Romex Cable.
Good Luck
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings\Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSivori <BSivori(at)aol.com> |
If you need any other questions answered re:Hangar Construction you can
respond off line to BSivori(at)AOL.COM. Be glad to ive you what ever advice I
can.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
Luker, Michael G. wrote:
>
> I need to build a hanger... an inexpensive(not cheap) hanger from scratch.
>
Michael:
Your budget, location, and "other uses" will determine your cost, and
the most cost effective building materials. For example, do you live in
North Dakota, or Florida.
At our local home improvement center in Sioux City, there is a computer
that will take you through a series of questions and options to give you
the right dimensions, doors, siding, etc, for your perfect garage
(hangar) project. If the budget allows it, insulation will make your
hangar more comfortable, no matter where you are. In warmer, damper,
climates, you will want to insulate the roof of steel structures to
prevent condensation.
The construction company I work for purchased a "quanset" shed for a job
shelter a couple years ago. The shed was made of radiused, corrigated,
galvanized steel, which was put together with neoprene head sheet metal
screws. This type of shelter will require a concrete footing. It was
very nice, and fairly inexpensive per square foot. It went up in a
hurry. I'll try to get the manufacturer and send it to you next week.
I believe a "kit" type of building will be less cost than trying to buy
the individual members and assembling them, i.e., "stick building". Of
course, you can always hit auction sales and pick up used materials.
Whatever you build, be sure to save enough money to buy a good fire
extinguisher and provide a **permanent** mounting next to the door. Also
plenty of lights (something other than incandescent, i.e., flourescent,
metal halide, or sodium vapor) and plenty of electrical sockets.
Depending on your local building officials, you may also need to check
out the National Fire Protection codes, and the National Electric Codes.
Have fun on your building project, and let everyone else know what you
find to be the best methods.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Gauge Quality: was Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
Hi all you guys who really believe in airplane parts,
What about some of the gauges used in non flying machines such as super high
dollar ambulances and fire trucks? I understand that VDO is a top name. In
auto stuff catalogs such as Summit Racing, VDO gauges are $30 and up and
senders under $20.
Why buy Certified Junk? I recently had to buy a new throttle cable for my
Debonair (Beech - like the F33) and list was $641. The exact same cable from
the exact same manufacturer - CableCraft - was about $60! I found a dealer who
discounts and got it for about $320.
One of the major computer manufacturers will sell you a replacement hard disk
drive for four times what you could buy the exact same drive for in the computer
store. I got that straight from the horse's mouth.
Even at the prices charged, much of the stuff for airplanes is of shoddy
quality. Yellow tags have gotten to be a joke.
Am I wrong? Clue me in!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport & sweating canopy
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
BSivori wrote:
>
>
> Guy's
>
> Hangars ( Aircraft Type ) are a nightmare to Plan & Build - And to make
> matters worse, build one in NY on State Leased Land. I have built 2 Hangars
> 14,000 SqFt and 21,000 SqFt - both took over 5 years to get the States
> Approval to get a building permit. The actual construction is a snap, it
> takes more time to plan.
>
> Once your gonna park a plane with Aircraft Grade Fuel - all the rules change.
> All electrical devices must be expolsion proof ( special boxes ) and every
> thing must be in pipe forget about BX or Romex Cable.
>
> Good Luck
>
> BSivori(at)AOL.COM
> N929RV ( Reserved )
> Wings\Tanks
>
There is no requirement that EVERYTHING be explosion proof...see the
National Electric Code which has a section applicable to aircraft
hangars only.....certain spacings above and laterally exempt you from
using explosion proof devices/boxes/lights.....don't take the above
literally...but there ARE special requirements...very simple to
read....the library probably has a current copy of the National Electric
Code...read it first!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Multiple options exist. The motor is required along with new weldment. You
can replace the entire part or get the modification part and do the
weldment yourself.
James
----------
> From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Elec Flaps
> Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 11:49 PM
>
>
> I have put it off too long.
> I am planing manuel flaps on my 6A. Am working on the F605 bulkhead.
>
> What would it take to switch to Electric flaps? do I need a different
> weldment?
> I know it costs a motor.
>
> Don Jordan~~ 6A-fuselage~~ Arlington,Tx
> donspawn(at)juno.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Where are these photos located.
>
>
>
Vans aircraft Web page........ www.vansaircraft.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Here's a new one. How does one go about tinting the canopy? I live
>in
>sunny Arizona where it is bright, and hot in the summer, and I do not
>want
>my black hair on my head burning!
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A
>controls
>
>
>
>
>
>
Paul, since I flew me RV-6A in the Phoenix area for 3 years I can relate.
At that time I used the stick on tint that has already been mentioned.
But If I was doing it again now I would use on of the retractable shades
that are sold through the Accessories catalog.
We have one on the blue 6A demonstrator (which I have spent long periods
of time in doing demo flights in at Copper State with it 100 deg. F.)
which works great. The thing I like about it is that it is opaque but is
easily and quickly retractable, so as you enter a traffic pattern, etc,
you can retract it and have the totally unobstructed vis that is afforded
by the bubble canopy.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal padding |
Gentlemen: I've decided to take some old list wisdom to heart and add lengths
of radiator hose to the cross pieces of my rudder pedals to pad the foot rest
and help keep my feet from accidentally activating the brakes during ground
ops. Now I'm puzzled as to how to secure the pieces of hose (slit lengthwise
for installation). Hose clamps at each end? Nylon cable tie-wraps? Contact
cement? I want durability but also looks and light weight. Anyone with
experience on this little detail? Thanks!
Bill Boyd
RV-6A gettin' close in western VA!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harry E.\"Bud\" Hawkins" <hawkbud(at)gate.net> |
Talk to your farm friends and ask them about pole barn construction. Very
inexpensive, strong and durable. I had a 64 by 32 with a 12 foot ceiling
built for 14,000 four years ago in the Bay City area of Michigan
----------
> From: Luker, Michael G. <luker.michael(at)mayo.edu>
> To: 'RVlist correspondence'
> Subject: RV-List: Hanger
> Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 12:49 PM
>
>
> Fellow builders and flyers,
>
> I need to build a hanger and I'm looking for anyone on the list who
> may have a lead on building an inexpensive(not cheap) hanger from
> scratch.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
Is there a such thing as electrical Attitude and heading indicators? Can
someone please explain the pros and cons of each? I don't PLAN on ever
doing any IFR on purpose.
Moe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
When you find out, can you let the list know the cost, and whether or
not he can do the stock (tinted) canopies?
Thanks
Moe
John B. Abell wrote:
>
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> >
> > Here's a new one. How does one go about tinting the canopy? I live in
> > sunny Arizona where it is bright, and hot in the summer, and I do not want
> > my black hair on my head burning!
> >
> > Paul Besing
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> If you want a really effective (and elegant) solution to the problem of
> cockpit heating through the canopy, I suggest that you contact Aero Sound
> Shield in Van Nuys, California at (818) 374-5355. Ask for Olin. He uses a
> process that deposits a 7 micron thick layer of 24 karat gold on canopies
> in a vacuum chamber. This deposit is then covered with a hardcoat that is
> virtually impervious to scratches. The gold deposit blocks something near
> 99 percent of the IR energy from the sun. He also provides firewall shields
> and soundproofing treatments. Olin informs me that the finished result
> still transmits 70 percent of the incident light, an FAA requirement.
>
> Olin will soon visit my own project. I will probably be able to provide
> additional details after that.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Jack Abell
> Los Angeles
> RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
Luker, Michael G. wrote:
>
I need to build a hangar....
Michael:
One more thing that you will want to add to your hangar is a light gray
two part epoxy paint on the floor. This will help greatly when cleaning
up oil spills, and will let the light reflect off the floor when working
under your plane.
You will have to acid etch the floor before priming.
I'm sure you can get a lot of advice on what type of primer and paint to
use right here on the list (ha ha)!!
martin shorman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
James E. Clark wrote:
>
>
> Multiple options exist. The motor is required along with new weldment. You
> can replace the entire part or get the modification part and do the
> weldment yourself.
>
> James
>
> ----------
> > From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Elec Flaps
> > Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 11:49 PM
> >
> >
> > I have put it off too long.
> > I am planing manuel flaps on my 6A. Am working on the F605 bulkhead.
> >
> > What would it take to switch to Electric flaps? do I need a different
> > weldment?
> > I know it costs a motor.
> >
> > Don Jordan~~ 6A-fuselage~~ Arlington,Tx
> > donspawn(at)juno.com
> >
>
The electric flaps require EITHER a new weldment or you can modify your
existing manual part. I did that locally and it was relatively simple to
do. As to use, the electric are a vast improvement, and trouble free.
The problem with the manual flaps is that when fully deployed, on a
"go-around" under either semi-emergency conditions or a bounced landing
(I'm sure that never happens to anyone!) the back pressure on the flaps
transmits up the linkage and it become VERY difficult to depress the
release button on the flap handle end...the RV-6/A will fly well at
about 95MPH with full flaps from a go around, but you can release them
without using two hands, and then WHO IS FLYING THE PLANE? At low levels
this is a touchy situation. The electrics are the only way to go. I've
had mine for about 75hrs and wouldn't change back to manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gauge Quality: was Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
>Can anybody comment on Mitchell 2 1/4" mechanical tachs?
>Rob (RV-6Q).
Rob,
I initially purchased the Mitchell, 2 1/4" tach for my RV-6. Cute little
thing. Then because I had heard of cable driven tach inaccuracies and I had
possible plans to put the Sensenich CM70 prop on my plane, I elected to go
with the Braal tach. I sold the Mitchell to another RV builder and he
reported back that it was off 100 some rpms.
The Braal tach is very accurate and I'm generally happy with it. It's
worked fine for 3 years and 400 hours. I've checked it with a Prop Tach and
a Cadwick machine. The downside to the Braal: It's kind of small and
sometimes a bit hard to see and, the major drawback---you have to lay out
and paint 30, alternating black and white rectangles on the rear face of the
ring gear which was very time consuming.
Bob Skinner RV-6 405 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Printing Archives |
I have been searching the archives and have found alot of good info--my
problem? How do I print selected info.
I'm using Windows 95 & Netscape Navigator. Today I tried to highlight a
thread and print it but turned off the printer when I saw 17 pages.
wow!! I want to send my money to Van's not Office Max.
Marty, RV-6AQ Fuselage
Erwinna, Pa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Tach (wasTweaking RV-6 and me) |
(stuff cut)
Mine was a Westach by Westberg out of A/C Spruce. They can put an external
adj. on it, or a sensor from the tach drive for another $40. Next time I
would go for a digital made by Taskem of Mass. seen in back of Sport Av.
mag.
BTW, a friend has a $360 unit by E.I. (Van's catalog), and it was wonky
right off the bat.
>>
Hi All,
I had a Westach electric tach on my LOM powered RV-3. That was actually the
most dangerous installation I've made on the aircraft. Seriously.
I was fortunate to only have a puzzling engine miss which only occured above
2200 rpm. Since I couldn't get more than 2200 rpm on the ground with my
Warnke prop, it would only miss in flight. The higher the rpm, the worse the
miss.
I've been told that I was fortunate not to have gotten a complete engine
failure, which has occured on some USA manufactured engines(mags).
I installed the E.I. tach. It is a very nice digital/analog tach.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Spikes and Transorbs . . . |
I've finished my homework and brought the thread to
its current stopping point. The article is illustrated
with quite a bit of data . . . so it got kind of big.
Sorry 'bout that. Interested individuals will find it at
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html>.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Intersection fairings |
<< What are suggesstions for attaching the intersection fairings? They area
fairly stiff and I am afraid of cracks if I attach too firmly as the gear
flexes on landing.
Thanks for ideas.
Richard E. Bibb >>
Richard,
It may be to late but. I started out by making a 1 piece
fairing. I preped the lower cowl area for permanent attatchment of the
fairing and put a release agent on the fuselage and gear leg fairings. Once
the fiberglass has been laid up and finished curring I used a dremel tool with
a cutoff wheel and split the fairing where the cowling meets the
fuselage(verticly). At this time the rear half can be removed and the front
half is a permanent part of the lower cowl. Once the rear half has been
trimmed, sanded and filled it can be installed to the fuselage with screws and
nutplates or pop rivets. The split between the two halves will act as your
stress reliever and you will not have a problem with cracking. Now when its
time to remove the cowl you have no fairings to mess around with. Very neat
and simple installation.
Ryan Bendure
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J VanGrunsven" <rvforpla(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: First Flight Today |
----------
> From: J VanGrunsven <rvforpla(at)pacifier.com>
> To: re-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: First Flight Today
> Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 11:30 PM
>
> RV-6A, N164VG, made it's first, second, and third fights this evening ,
> Apr 9, from Olinger Airpark, Hillsboro, OR. N164VG has 180hp, hartzell
> C/S, sliding canopy, VM-1000, Rocky Mt encoder, Navaids wg leveler,
gyro's,
> DJ interior, and GPS. Flew real nice. Builders Stan and Jerry
> VanG-.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV home near SEATAC |
<3523EBF3.4E58(at)rkymtnhi.com>
| From: | seaok71302(at)Juno.com (mike a adams) |
I am looking for a house on an airstrip or a lot to build on in
Washington State within 1 hour drive of SEATAC.
Other RV builders on airstrip a big plus!
I need 3BR/2BA min if I'm buying a pre-existing house.
I do not have an agent yet.
Please respond off line, Thank-you.
Mike Adams/-4/2316
seaok71302(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F Mark40 <FMark40(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument Drawings |
Does anyone have instrument drawings in Autocad format that I could download?
These would be used for planning my future instrument panel. I am aware of
the commercially available Panel Planning software but am just looking for
instrument drawings at this time.
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gauge Quality:Mitchell mech tach |
I've had one, (Mitchell mechanical tach), in my RV4 for 600 hours now, and
love it. I had the hour meter break on it one time, but they repaired it for
free. When I build my 6 it will have 2.25" engine instruments in it also.
Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
Someone asked the question about electric attitude and directional gyros vs
vaccum.
The main difference is $ no silly me $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ . Unless you can find a
real good deal on electric, you can generally buy vaccum units and buy a
standby system, (or build one) for less than electric systems. Plus if you
ever lose a alternator you don't have long to get on the ground (if IFR)
before the battery gives out if you are using electric.
Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Orndorff G <OrndorffG(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Hartzell Prop Governors |
Shelby,
Did you put a firewall box in? If not the governor will not fit. If so how
big is the box? Standard size is 8x10x 3 inch deep.This size box will give you
all the room you need for the governor and an oil filter....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
You will find that state and local building codes are often times more
stringent than the NEC, but they cannot be less so. Therefore, what all
applies in one locality might not necessarily all apply in another. The
first step might be to check with your local building permit office and
airport authority (unless you are lucky enough to have your own airport) to
see just what the requirements are and then you would have a little better
idea about selecting an appropriate construction method.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ?Tacoma WA
-----Original Message-----
From: John W. Fasching <fasching(at)chaffee.net>
Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hanger
>
>BSivori wrote:
>>
>>
>> Guy's
>>
>> Hangars ( Aircraft Type ) are a nightmare to Plan & Build - And to make
>> matters worse, build one in NY on State Leased Land. I have built 2
Hangars
>> 14,000 SqFt and 21,000 SqFt - both took over 5 years to get the States
>> Approval to get a building permit. The actual construction is a snap, it
>> takes more time to plan.
>>
>> Once your gonna park a plane with Aircraft Grade Fuel - all the rules
change.
>> All electrical devices must be expolsion proof ( special boxes ) and
every
>> thing must be in pipe forget about BX or Romex Cable.
>>
>> Good Luck
>>
>> BSivori(at)AOL.COM
>> N929RV ( Reserved )
>> Wings\Tanks
>>
>
>There is no requirement that EVERYTHING be explosion proof...see the
>National Electric Code which has a section applicable to aircraft
>hangars only.....certain spacings above and laterally exempt you from
>using explosion proof devices/boxes/lights.....don't take the above
>literally...but there ARE special requirements...very simple to
>read....the library probably has a current copy of the National Electric
>Code...read it first!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
>
>Is there a such thing as electrical Attitude and heading indicators? Can
>someone please explain the pros and cons of each? I don't PLAN on ever
>doing any IFR on purpose.
>
>Moe
Yes there are. They are about $1200 each. Theoretically more reliable due
to the absence of air running through them but there appears to be very
little hard data to back that up. We had a big discussion on gyros a while
back including vacuum vs.
all electric etc. You might want to check out the archive. Just search
for GYROS.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
rocket2(at)etcrier.net, hr2pilot(at)etcrier.net
| Subject: | Aeroshell 3-D speed dash |
Listers:
Get your info and entry forms at:
http://www.shell-lubricants.com/3D-Dash/html/medallion.html
Remember: this is bracket racing (you are racing yourself!), and the finish
line is at 2000 AGL. A Cub could win...
It sounds like a lot of fun!
See ya there
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stanley Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems-backups |
It has been suggested that a backup vacuum system could be fabricated
easily. Does anyone know where to get a three-way valve that would fit the
5/8 id hose coming from the pump? It would need to be activated with a
cable.
The transducer to detect a low vacuum condition is only about $15-$20. So
if a valve could be found the system would be a lot cheaper than the $350
setup from Precise Flight.
Thanks,
Stan Blanton
RV-6
Lubbock, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
>
>Someone asked the question about electric attitude and directional gyros vs
>vaccum.
>Plus if you
>ever lose a alternator you don't have long to get on the ground (if IFR)
>before the battery gives out if you are using electric.
>Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
If one has removed the vacuum pump from an otherwise perfectly
good source of mechanical energy (vacuum pump pad) I'd highly
recommend installation of at 10-20 amp alternator on this pad
for backup power. See past article in SA on Dean Hall's all
electric installation and our articles on power system reliabilty
on our website.
Going total electric, while admitedly expensive, should be
the MOST reliable IFR flight system we currently know how
to assemble.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Drawings |
Go to the manufacturers web sites.. most have pictures of their products
you can download..
Paul Besing
RV-6A
Rudder Pedals
>
>Does anyone have instrument drawings in Autocad format that I could download?
>These would be used for planning my future instrument panel. I am aware of
>the commercially available Panel Planning software but am just looking for
>instrument drawings at this time.
>
>Mark McGee
>RV4 Wings
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TPhilpin <TPhilpin(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
>
>Is there a such thing as electrical Attitude and heading indicators? Can
>someone please explain the pros and cons of each?
>
Theoretically more reliable due
to the absence of air running through them but there appears to be very
little hard data to back that up. We had a big discussion on gyros a while
back including vacuum vs.
all electric etc. You might want to check out the archive. Just search
for GYROS.
John
>>
DITTO
Check the archives, it seemed cost effective to go electric if building an IFR
panel with backup considering reliability of the instraments and pump, the
cost of all the systems, and by using a backup up alternator and two
batteries, you also can backup your radio and nav equipment. In short --->
See the archives!!!!
Tony Philpin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Listers,
I'll report back to the list after I meet with Olin on the "gold plated
canopy" idea. I'll also ask him about RF transparency, or should I say,
opacity.
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505 <RBusick505(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
When I lived in the Southwest I learned to wear a wide brim hat, it did a
great job of keeping the sun off my thin head of hair and neck, but I have yet
to figure out how to wear the hat and a headset. Even a sunshade probably
will not be enough UV protection for the back of my head, I am seriously
considering a helmet.
Until I read most of the posts on this topic I thought that the Helmet option
was probably the most expensive solution to the problem (around $1000 with ANR
communications). However, with all the inventive ideas from the list, I must
admit that I am wrong.
One suggestion was 24 carat gold tint, the list discussed this about a year
ago and someone said that Airforce tests indicated that the tint effectively
blocked all radio transmissions. Now this is truly heresay, and before I made
a decision on the tinting I would want some more positive evidence one way or
the other.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gauge Quality:Mitchell mech tach |
Just a comment on Mitchell tachs. I bought one to install in my Citabria
when I reworked the panel. Accidently dropped it on a concrete floor (in
fact it flew about 15 feet across the concrete floor after several bounces).
Figured it was trashed. To my amazement it still worked fine, I installed
it and thus far for 50 hours it has worked perfect. Tough!!!
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
RV-4 fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, April 10, 1998 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gauge Quality:Mitchell mech tach
>
>I've had one, (Mitchell mechanical tach), in my RV4 for 600 hours now, and
>love it. I had the hour meter break on it one time, but they repaired it
for
>free. When I build my 6 it will have 2.25" engine instruments in it also.
>Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Hartzell Prop Governors |
>
>Shelby,
> Did you put a firewall box in? If not the governor will not fit. If so how
>big is the box? Standard size is 8x10x 3 inch deep.This size box will give you
>all the room you need for the governor and an oil filter....George Orndorff
I am putting the standard, as provided by Van's, firwall recess in. Another
builder here who installed a Hartzell said it did not clear the bottom of
the recess box and had to make another cut-out/extension.
If you put a Hartzell in maybe there was some other issue with his.
Thanks for the response.
Shelby Smith in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.Henson(at)cendantmobility.com |
| Subject: | Tweaking RV-6 and me (long) |
A Real-Live RV-6 Pilot Said:
>>>HI All,
>> Progress report: What I found and what I did:
>> There, I made my confession and the flame suit is on and I live 1
block
from the fire-hall, so have at it....Your welcome...................Austin<<
Here come the flames Austin, zip up that suit.
Posts like this build a fire under my ass like I can't tell ya. It does me a
world of good to hear Austin flying his rivet collection. Just a while back
I was reading the the trials and tribulations of Austin the metal smith. Now
I'm to the point that I remember Austin once being at. That means this
sucker is do-able and if I look hard enough I might be able see this thing
flying in my very near future. Yep, I'm all fired up! Thanks for taking the
time to let us live vicariously, Austin. And thanks to Suzie Q as well.
Eric Henson
Finishing Wings
Fuse Kit in the Oven at Van's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com> |
| Subject: | Seat Belts and Harnass |
Guys and Gals,
Be sure to consider Pacific Aero Harness for your RV seat belts.
I just got mine from Rob Huntsinger and cannot begin to describe the
quality of his work.
They are terrific. Cannot imagine how they could be better.
Rob is listed on Van's web page, so you can find him at:
http://home.att.net/~robh/
Here is his email address: robh(at)worldnet.att.net
Frank Zeck,
RV4 N2ZK June 98
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Hartzell Prop Governors |
> I have a Hartzell Prop governor and understand they may be a little tight
> in fitting in the standard firewall recess.
Is the governor made by Hartzell or is it the Woodward that Van's
sells? I have the woodward and didn't find it to be too tight. It is
a little tight getting nuts, bolts, cables, etc. on and off, but it's
not too bad. I used Van's bracket and a custom cable from ACS.
Worked out fine, the only issue was that I had to grind out the slot
in the bracket a little bit to clear the cable, but that was no big
deal.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Preview Plans |
If there are any other slow builders out there with an early version of the
wing drawings and instructions, I would suggest you buy the preview plans
for the RV-8 which are now available along with the instruction manual from
Van's for $55. There are several revisions to the drawings and building
instructions for the wings which would be worth your attention.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Jack,
Ant idea of the price? Can this be done after the canopy is split? Can it be done
on Van's standard
"smoked" canopy ?
Ed Cole
RV6A
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
On Wednesday, April 08, 1998 1:45 AM, John B. Abell [SMTP:jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com]
wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'll report back to the list after I meet with Olin on the "gold plated
> canopy" idea. I'll also ask him about RF transparency, or should I say,
> opacity.
>
> Jack Abell
> Los Angeles
> RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | MAC Elevator Trim Servo |
Hey All,
I'm kind of confused as how to mount the MAC Elevator Trim Servo with the
kit-enclosed Z-shaped supports. It looks to me like there's not enough
room to mount the servo on the supports without the servo hanging up
against the aft end of the supports themselves. It seems as though I'll
need to shim the servo up in order to get everything to clear.
Anybody else experience this issue?
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
RV8 80549 LE / Trim Tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Belts and Harnass |
Have you been able to compare them to the ones that van's offers? Also,
are they aerobatic?
Paul Besing
>
>Guys and Gals,
>
>Be sure to consider Pacific Aero Harness for your RV seat belts.
>I just got mine from Rob Huntsinger and cannot begin to describe the
>quality of his work.
>They are terrific. Cannot imagine how they could be better.
>
>Rob is listed on Van's web page, so you can find him at:
>
> http://home.att.net/~robh/
>
>Here is his email address: robh(at)worldnet.att.net
>
>Frank Zeck,
>RV4 N2ZK June 98
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty Emrath" <emrath(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling E613-pp Counter Balance Skins |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD6498.D8CD9440"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD6498.D8CD9440
Listeners, I am in the process of drilling the counter balance skin =
E613PP to the right elevator tip ribs E604 and E603 assembly. This is =
for an RV6 with pre-punched skins. The forward face of the E613PP is =
pre-punched with 4 holes. Thus there are 32 holes total. I know that I =
am to drill the 28 holes on the top and bottom of the elevator, but =
should I drill these 4 forward facing holes and dimple them to accept =
flush rivets? I cannot seem to find this in the drawings or in the =
instructions. Frank's notes say to drill the 28 holes but nothing about =
these forwards ones. Anyone have the answer?
Marty Emrath
Nashville, TN=20
RV6 Elevators
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD6498.D8CD9440
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
Listeners, I am in the process =
of drilling=20
the counter balance skin E613PP to the right elevator tip ribs E604 and =
E603=20
assembly. This is for an RV6 with pre-punched skins. =
The=20
forward face of the E613PP is pre-punched with 4 holes. Thus there =
are 32=20
holes total. I know that I am to drill the 28 holes on the top and =
bottom=20
of the elevator, but should I drill these 4 forward facing holes and =
dimple them=20
to accept flush rivets? I cannot seem to find this in the drawings =
or in=20
the instructions. Frank's notes say to drill the 28 holes but =
nothing=20
about these forwards ones. Anyone have the answer?
Marty Emrath
Nashville, TN =
RV6 =
Elevators
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD6498.D8CD9440--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum systems |
<< Can
someone please explain the pros and cons of each? >>
Yes, one word-MONEY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Dunlap <chuck(at)zekes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal padding |
I used automotive heater hose 5/8 or 3/4 (I can't remember which) - slit
it lengthwise and glued it on with proseal. I used ty-wraps to make it
fit tight while curing.
Chuck Dunlap
S.E. AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Dunlap <chuck(at)zekes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Printing Archives |
To print selected bits from the archives (or anything else), try this.
Highlight the text you want by "dragging" the mouse over it. Then click
on ,. This copies it to the clipboard. Then use Notepad or
your favorite word processor and paste the clipboard contents in there,
then print that.
Chuck Dunlap
S.E. AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
I'm leaving for Sun-N-Fun on the morning of the 18th (weather permitting)
I'll
leave Warsaw direct London-Corbin, Ky direct Dublin,Ga direct Lakeland. If
anyone
wants to fly lead with me, let me know. I flew with another RV to Sun-N-Fun
once
and it was more fun than flying alone.
Jim
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
<< Airforce tests indicated that the tint effectively
blocked all radio transmissions. Now this is truly heresay, and before I
made
a decision on the tinting I would want some more positive evidence one way or
the other. >>
As far as the GOLD blocking radio transmissions, there is some truth to this,
I believe. Take a look at the canopy, for example, on an EA6B Prowler radar
jammer.
I had always been told that the canopy protected the aircrew from radiation,
since they generate such so much power in the from the jamming pods. If you
can find an ex Prowler jock, I'm sure he would have some info, providing that
it is not classified.
Jim Nice
RV6A
P.S. Of course, it would not stop signals from coming and going from your
fuse or wing mounted antenna.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MAC Elevator Trim Servo |
Had a similar feeling when I started. It just fits.
Clamp the supports to the mounting plate. Slide MAC servo in place. Keep
sliding "forward"/"downward" until it rests on the the flanges. This will
*just before* it bottoms out.
Seemed to me though that the (L) and (R) may be reversed. The plans have
you drilling a hole for the wire on the "(L)" bracket but to make it work,
it really is the "(R)" bracket. Stared at that for a long time.
Hope I am remembering this correctly.
James
RV6AQB ... just finishing the elevator trim
----------
> From: Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net>
> To: 'RV-LIST'
> Subject: RV-List: MAC Elevator Trim Servo
> Date: Friday, April 10, 1998 4:35 PM
>
>
>
> Hey All,
>
> I'm kind of confused as how to mount the MAC Elevator Trim Servo with the
> kit-enclosed Z-shaped supports. It looks to me like there's not enough
> room to mount the servo on the supports without the servo hanging up
> against the aft end of the supports themselves. It seems as though I'll
> need to shim the servo up in order to get everything to clear.
>
> Anybody else experience this issue?
>
> Nick Knobil
> Bowdoinham, Maine
> RV8 80549 LE / Trim Tab
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <n164ra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Slider Bow Height |
Listers:
Where should the rear of the slider canopy frame (WD-640) be relative to
the top fuse skin and rear canopy track (C-662/663)? Should it be even
with the top of the track or the skin, so the canopy side skins wind up
being flush with both the canopy and fuse skin later?
Regardless of what the proper position winds up being, it looks as though
the gap between the front and rear canopy bows, with the slider fully
forward, will be uneven. It's 1/8" at the bottom, and 3/16" to 3/8" at the
top depending on where I line up the rear of the canopy frame.
Will this just be an aesthetic problem or am I in bigger trouble?
Thanks,
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Drilling E613-pp Counter Balance Skins |
>should I drill these 4 forward facing holes and dimple them to accept
>=
>flush rivets? I cannot seem to find this in the drawings or in the =
>instructions. Frank's notes say to drill the 28 holes but nothing
>about =
>these forwards ones. Anyone have the answer?
>
>Marty Emrath
>Nashville, TN=20
>RV6 Elevators
Marty:
I seam to remember that they are fllush but my drawings are at work.
Don Jordan~~ 6A-fuselage~~ Arlington,Tx
donspawn(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling E613-pp Counter Balance Skins |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000F_01BD64C3.68174E00"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BD64C3.68174E00
I looked on my plans and fail to see any mention of the four =
holes/rivets either. I (did) counter sink and rivet the four holes in =
mine. Dimpling should work as well.=20
Tom -6 fuse skinning
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty Emrath <emrath(at)msn.com>
To: RVlist
Date: Friday, April 10, 1998 5:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling E613-pp Counter Balance Skins
=20
=20
Listeners, I am in the process of drilling the counter balance skin =
E613PP to the right elevator tip ribs E604 and E603 assembly. This is =
for an RV6 with pre-punched skins. The forward face of the E613PP is =
pre-punched with 4 holes. Thus there are 32 holes total. I know that I =
am to drill the 28 holes on the top and bottom of the elevator, but =
should I drill these 4 forward facing holes and dimple them to accept =
flush rivets? I cannot seem to find this in the drawings or in the =
instructions. Frank's notes say to drill the 28 holes but nothing about =
these forwards ones. Anyone have the answer?
=20
Marty Emrath
Nashville, TN=20
RV6 Elevators
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BD64C3.68174E00
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
I looked on my plans and fail to see =
any mention=20
of the four holes/rivets either. I (did) counter sink and rivet =
the four=20
holes in mine. Dimpling should work as well.
Tom -6 fuse=20
skinning
-----Original =
Marty Emrath <emrath(at)msn.com>
To: =
RVlist=20
<rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date:=20
Friday, April 10, 1998 5:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: =
Drilling=20
E613-pp Counter Balance Skins
Listeners, I am in the =
process of=20
drilling the counter balance skin E613PP to the right elevator tip =
ribs E604=20
and E603 assembly. This is for an RV6 with pre-punched =20
skins. The forward face of the E613PP is pre-punched with 4=20
holes. Thus there are 32 holes total. I know that I am =
to drill=20
the 28 holes on the top and bottom of the elevator, but should I =
drill these=20
4 forward facing holes and dimple them to accept flush rivets? =
I=20
cannot seem to find this in the drawings or in the =
instructions. =20
Frank's notes say to drill the 28 holes but nothing about these =
forwards=20
ones. Anyone have the answer?
Marty Emrath
Nashville, =
TN=20
RV6=20
Elevators
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BD64C3.68174E00--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: MAC Elevator Trim Servo |
Nick, Hi,
Jim is right. Some of the drawings have the left & right brackets
reversed. Take a good look at the plans and use your common sense when
drilling the wiring hole. It does fit but is snug. I drilled the hole in
the wrong side but just made a new bracket, it was pretty simple and after
looking at the plans some more saw the mistake on the drawings.
keep on buildin!!!
Bill Pagan
-8A wings
80555
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: First Flight Today |
Congrats Jerry:
So do you like it??
Im still a Wannabee but getting close.
Larry K Daudt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Tach (wasTweaking RV-6 and me) |
Jim: I also have the EI tach and am having problems with it; every so often
it starts "jumping around". The readings fluctuate back and forth and then
stabilize for a while , then the same thing happens again. I called EI and
explained my installation to them,( I am using Lightspeed Eng. electronic
iginiton, along with one mag, one tach lead was connected to the mag switch.)
I wa told to connect both of the leads to the same mag switch. I did this but
the problem persists. I haven't had a chance to call back yet. Any ideas?
Walt RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Bow Height |
>
> Where should the rear of the slider canopy frame (WD-640) be relative to
> the top fuse skin and rear canopy track (C-662/663)? Should it be even
> with the top of the track or the skin, so the canopy side skins wind up
> being flush with both the canopy and fuse skin later?
I asked this question a few months ago, and someone from Australia was kind
enough to suggest that a starting point was to have the aft skin line up
about with the middle of the rear bows. I found that having the rear skin
about tangent to the top of the rear bows worked better for me.
> Regardless of what the proper position winds up being, it looks as though
> the gap between the front and rear canopy bows, with the slider fully
> forward, will be uneven. It's 1/8" at the bottom, and 3/16" to 3/8" at
the
> top depending on where I line up the rear of the canopy frame.
I bent my slider frame front bow for about 2 hours before I got it
acceptably close, maybe within 1/16 to 1/8 inch of the roll bar.
> Will this just be an aesthetic problem or am I in bigger trouble?
All told, I bent: forward slider bow, aft slider bows, side rails, plate
holding rear anchor pins (too far out), top center bar. I also cut the the
rear bows and shortened them (I also moved the point where they connect to
the side rails inward by one plexiglas thickness, flush as delivered makes
no sense - many have grooved the plexi to accomodate this problem).
Additionally, the position where the top tube is welded onto the forward
bow was not centered by 3/4", although I chose to leave it alone. For
cosmetics only, I plan to cut and reweld where the forward roll bar support
connects to the roll bar, so that it aligns with the off center slider
frame.
Just take a deep breath, and plan on a lot of work, it can be done. It is
clearly the most challenging structural work of the 6A.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 N144RS for sale. |
I hate to do this and would like to see him keep it but here goes.
My friend has his IO-320 C.S. RV-4 for sale. He is asking $45K and
will not budge on price. He is located near Sacramento California.
If interested, please contact Randy directly at staar(at)volcano.net
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy |
Edward Cole wrote:
>
>
> Jack,
> Ant idea of the price? Can this be done after the canopy is split? Can
>it be done on Van's standard "smoked" canopy ?
>
> Ed Cole
Olin estimated the price as $600.00 plus shipping back and forth to
someplace in New England, but the price won't be determined finally until
he measures the canopy and talks to his contractor. According to Olin,
Van's standard canopy transmits about 85 percent of incident light, and
the treatment brings that down to 70 percent.
I know others have similar questions about this procedure, but I can't
answer them all until after I meet with Olin and he provides some more
definitive information. I'm just thinking that, for myself, if this thing
works as advertised, it solves a lot of problems.
Stand by.
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Liebermann" <eliebermann(at)monmouth.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Aileron Trim. |
The drawing for the aileron modification for electric trim is confusing. The
write up refers to installing the trim tab at the root, while the "picture"
shows a tip instalation. So, which way to go? does it make any difference?
Eli
RV-6A Starting fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: First Flight Today |
>
>
>
>----------
>> From: J VanGrunsven <rvforpla(at)pacifier.com>
>> To: re-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: First Flight Today
>> Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 11:30 PM
>>
>> RV-6A, N164VG, made it's first, second, and third fights this evening ,
>> Apr 9, from Olinger Airpark, Hillsboro, OR. N164VG has 180hp, hartzell
>> C/S, sliding canopy, VM-1000, Rocky Mt encoder, Navaids wg leveler,
>gyro's,
>> DJ interior, and GPS. Flew real nice. Builders Stan and Jerry
>> VanG-.
>>
Jerry & Stan,
Congrats on your new bird. I can say to all on the list that when Jerry
took off from Van's house yesterday, after landing to show off the new bird
to the Home Wing group, THIS -6A GETS AFTER IT!! Nice climb rate! Of
course, Jerry could get a Champ to climb at 2500 fpm!! :-)
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Wing Spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling E613-pp Counter Balance Skins |
>Listeners, I am in the process of drilling the counter balance skin E613PP
to the right elevator tip ribs E604 and E603 assembly. This is for an RV6
with pre-punched skins. The forward face of the E613PP is pre-punched with
4 holes. Thus there are 32 holes total. I know that I am to drill the 28
holes on the top and bottom of the elevator, but should I drill these 4
forward facing holes and dimple them to accept flush rivets? I cannot seem
to find this in the drawings or in the instructions. Frank's notes say to
drill the 28 holes but nothing about these forwards ones. Anyone have the
answer?
>
>Marty Emrath
>Nashville, TN
>RV6 Elevators
Marty,
Yes, drill the 4 holes on the forward side for AN426 rivets. The holes
punched in the skin are for AN426AD3 rivets. Dimple both the skin and the
ribs for -3 rivets.
Keep at it!
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Wing Spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy William Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Movie/-8A/Sunshade/RV Flight Bag |
Greetings,
The University of Portland decided to delete my e-mail account (and 4
years worth of files = 65megs) without telling me, so I lost quite a bit
of stuff. I'll try to reply to what I can remember about, but if you sent
me something and got no reply, then try try again...
--------------------------
A little clarification about a movie with an RV in it that I recently
posted. It was in the "Canned Film Festival" not the "Cannes Film
Festival." Although I wish "takeback" (the movie's name) would be the
next Pulp Fiction, it won't. The "Canned" Festival was a small canned
food drive for charity. The movie short is an amateur production, not
professional. It won't be on satellite, sorry. I showed it to a few
people at the end of the Home Wing builders meeting -- I saw Randall,
Scott, and Van laughing, so it can't be all that bad :-)
---------------------------
It seems that thousands of different people looked at the RV-8A pix last
weekend, sorry if you couldn't get in, the web site was quite a bit
overloaded.
---------------------------
I'll be getting some more pix of the RV-8A with wheel pants and gear leg
fairings this week. I'll take a bunch of pix and choose the best for the
web site. If anyone is interested, I'll post the remaining (20 or 30
from all different angles) to my personal web site...
---------------------------
I've flown a number of hours in a -6A first with glue-on window tint,
then with the retractable sunshade. The glue-ons work good, but if I were
doing it, I would spend the $$ and go with the retractable. It works
great, and is especially nice on those cross-USA flights when the sun
moves. And if you're just transitioning into the RVs and are intimidated
by all that visibility, you can simulate a "roof" over your head, then
slowly start retracting it until you feel comfortable :-)
---------------------------
The name of the company run by Van's relative is:
RV Flight Bag -- http://www.europa.com/~rvfltbag
Contact Judy Van Grunsven at (503) 648-3464 for current
pricing and availability.
---------------------------
Now, stop reading e-mail and get back to building! :-)
Jeremy
jwb(at)europa.com
StdDis: I speak for no one, not even myself.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
| Subject: | Florida Airpark home for sale |
My house isn't near SEATAC (sorry Mike), but it is for sale. It's
at Treasure Coast Airpark, where there is one flying RV6A, another
under construction (Bernie and myself), and two other RV's experiencing
constructionus interruptus. See http://ntr.net/~rimbold/house.htm
One of the RV's not being built is an RV4. The kit owner bought it
partially completed and changed his mind. He would like to sell it
to buy an RV8 kit. If you're interested, contact Brad at 561-595-5126.
--
--------
Rob Rimbold
rimbold(at)ntr.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Luker, Michael G. wrote:
> I need to build a hanger and I'm looking for anyone on the list who
> may have a lead on building an inexpensive(not cheap) hanger from
> scratch.
In my experience, less expensive means more work. if this is ok, and you live
in
the south or another area with lots of chicken farmers, watch for used chicken
houses. Often, the truss structures are so rusted that they aren't usable, but
the
deals are out there. You probably will want new roofing tin.
If you prefer all new material, and want a hanger just big enough for an RV sized
plane, look in the yellow pages for metal roofing suppliers & ask for 14 guage
Z
channel purlins. They are used in commercial metal buildings to span between main
trusses, & the metal roofing is screwed to them (foam insulation can be inserted
between the purlins & roofing). 14 guage 8" tall purlins can span up to 30', &
cost $1.20-$1.50 per foot. Build 2 walls 30' apart with height tapered from 12'
to 8' & a third wall connecting the 8' ends of the other 2 walls, leaving the 12'
high end open. support the purlins across the tapered walls, install metal roofing
on the purlins.
This is the cheapest way I've found so far. If someone knows a cheaper way, pleas
tell us now, because I'm about to add a shop to my hangar this way.
Charlie RV-4 flying (purchased) building the shop to build the house to have time
to build the next plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 N144RS for sale. |
Importance: Normal
>
>
> I hate to do this and would like to see him keep it but here goes.
>
> My friend has his IO-320 C.S. RV-4 for sale. He is asking $45K and
> will not budge on price. He is located near Sacramento California.
>
> If interested, please contact Randy directly at staar(at)volcano.net
This is a nice one. Randy gave me a ride in it. A real sweet perfomer.
Money well spent, IMO. I hate to see him sell it too. Whooma gonna ride
with?
Hi Gary! I left Lockheed but I'm still on the list!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
The Flying Dutcman
svanarts(at)jps.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim. |
The drawing for the aileron trim was done when the tab was mounted at
the root. Later they moved the tab to the tip, however the dimensions in
the plans were never changed to reflect the move. The root nose rib is
mounted farther from the edge of the spar to allow for the wider hinge
bracket (aileron control rod attach).
I mounted the servo against the tip nose rib as shown in the
illustration and sized my access cover to fit. This allowed me a smaller
access cover the the plans called for.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
<< Someone asked the question about electric attitude and directional gyros vs
vaccum.
The main difference is $ no silly me $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ . Unless you can find a
real good deal on electric, you can generally buy vaccum units and buy a
standby system, (or build one) for less than electric systems. Plus if you
ever lose a alternator you don't have long to get on the ground (if IFR)
before the battery gives out if you are using electric. >>
I had the good fortune to pick up a used but very nice electric Horizon from a
helo for $200, which became the cornerstone of my panel and prompted my
decision not to install any vacuum system. The T/C is electric. and the GPS
nav screen emulates a DG well enough. But this DOES bring up electrical sys
reliability issues... which have been beaten to death on the list already.
One new twist...
my local FAA guy has indicated he has a problem with letting my microEncoder
serve as the only altimeter on my ship... so I had to send some documentation
and put him onto the Hillsboro FSDO which signed off the prototype RV-8 to fly
with just such an all-electric panel. Someone lost an alternator in that
plane at night and had to use GPS for speed and altitude... gosh, at least I
already have an analog airspeed in my panel... but I didn't want to duplicate
the altimeter- just not that critical for visual flight... FAA guy says "what
if you fly into scud - we all do..." and I said (politely) "speak for
yourself... won't catch me in no scud without a functional or redundant
electrical system!" So he's thinking it over. Why do these hitches have to
surface at the last minute?!
Bill Boyd
Inspection in 6 weeks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
writes:
>
>Luker, Michael G. wrote:
>>
> I need to build a hangar....
>
>Michael:
>
>One more thing that you will want to add to your hangar is a light
>gray
>two part epoxy paint on the floor.[snip]
>
>martin shorman
>
Martin:
My Hanger is concrete always dry. the one across from me is built the
same EXCEPT it has been painted. I visited the other day. No rain, but
humid that day & the neighbor's floor was very wet with water? I hate to
ask about paint but I wonder Why?
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx
donspawn(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Tach (wasTweaking RV-6 and me) |
>
>Jim: I also have the EI tach and am having problems with it; every so often
>it starts "jumping around". The readings fluctuate back and forth and then
>stabilize for a while , then the same thing happens again. I called EI and
>explained my installation to them,( I am using Lightspeed Eng. electronic
>iginiton, along with one mag, one tach lead was connected to the mag
switch.)
>I wa told to connect both of the leads to the same mag switch. I did this but
>the problem persists. I haven't had a chance to call back yet. Any ideas?
Try hooking to only one system and see if it settles down.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Noel E Drew <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
Nuckells might be right if one is using dry vaccum pumps. I went back through
my log books and found 9 pump failures. All were dry pumps. The pump on my
1960
Tripacer went 4000 hours without a failure. When the AC went through a
restoration, and engine rebuild the pump was sent out for OH. The shop asked
what was wrong with the pump that it needed OH.!!!! It got OH'ed anyway. The
wet pump on my RV4 had 3000 hours on it , I had it Oh'ed before installing it
on the 4. In all my years of flying and A&P'ing I have only changed out one
wet pump, and it failed because a oil line failed, pumped all the oil
overboard, subsequently the pump and the engine failed due to lack of oil. I
still say the vaccum gyros are a better buy from the cost standpoint, and
properly maintained will last just as long as electric units. I've had more
alternators fail than I can count, and we change out at least one a week at
the shop that I work at part time. I fly a lot of IFR and I'll take my wet
vaccum system with a simple standby over electric systems anyday. The BE30
that I fly (KingAir 300) has one redundant electrical system after another,
efis, etc. Several times we have come home with no electrics, but guess what
? The vaccum (pressure actually) units were still working! Enough
said...!!!!
Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wntzl(at)execpc.com (David M Wentzell) |
| Subject: | HS Skin to Skeleton |
My sequence for attachment of hor. stab. skin to skeleton is: cleco
together, drill pilot holes, de-burr all sides, dimple, cleco back
together, drill final holes, deburr, prime inside surface, rivet together.
Correct?, or am I getting too carried away here? Also, if the head of the
rivet seems to stick out just a little after dimpling is that OK (or even
preferred)? Does the riveting then drive it totally flush? - or should I
hit it again with the dimple die? Seems if I hit it too hard I get a
smiley.
rv6 - just starting. DW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Buying an Engine |
I'd appreciate any experience that any of you have had with
Wentworth Aircraft in Minnesota. I called him to inquire on
an engine and he has an O-320-D3G with 1900 TT and 450 SMOH
for $9,500. Have any of you purchased an engine from this
guy? Was your experience a good or a bad one. Thanks in
advance for your comments.
I'm about as far as I can go on the wiring without hanging
an engine on the front so I'm looking hard for something,
but patient enough to avoid a quick buying mistake.
Randy Pflanzer RV-6
N417G "Special Angel" - Wiring and various odds and ends.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Skin to Skeleton |
Don't bother with pilot holes. Final drill a few with a #41 bit and see
if the rivets and clecos fit ok. If they do, just final drill the whole
thing with a #41 bit. This will give you a tighter fit with the rivets
after dimpling. If it's too tight, just drill them out to #40. There is
no difference really, I just find that I have an easier time driving #3
rivets in a #41 hole. Use a fresh bit. Don't bother "pilot" drilling
holes here. Make sure everything fits properly, then final drill,
de-burr, dimple, prime, cleco together, rivet. Hit each hole VERY
lightly with a duburring tool, only a turn or two, right before putting
the rivet in and it will seat a little better. Your heads may protrude
very slightly, or you may see a minute little gap around the head. Don't
worry about it, the paint will fill it in. Just make sure the rivets are
driven properly. The bucking bars that come in most starter packages are
too large for the HS. I have drawings for a small bucking bar that works
very well for the HS and VS, and your local machine shop should make it
for under $15 if you can't do it yourself. Email me and I'll email you
back a drawing made with MS paint, or I can fax you a picture on monday.
Moe Colontonio
RV-8 Rudder
David M Wentzell wrote:
>
>
> My sequence for attachment of hor. stab. skin to skeleton is: cleco
> together, drill pilot holes, de-burr all sides, dimple, cleco back
> together, drill final holes, deburr, prime inside surface, rivet together.
> Correct?, or am I getting too carried away here? Also, if the head of the
> rivet seems to stick out just a little after dimpling is that OK (or even
> preferred)? Does the riveting then drive it totally flush? - or should I
> hit it again with the dimple die? Seems if I hit it too hard I get a
> smiley.
> rv6 - just starting. DW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim. |
<< The drawing for the aileron trim was done when the tab was mounted at
the root. Later they moved the tab to the tip, however the dimensions in
the plans were never changed to reflect the move. >>
I can't imagine why they moved it to the tip. There is no need for additional
authority IMO.
Mine is on the root of the right aileron and it takes only slight actuation of
the coolie hat to trim for all loading conditions. Of course, in my
installation, I added foam and glass to make a little wedge (airfoil trailing
edge) of the free hinge, so this may give it more authority from the get go.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical System on a PC Board. |
Importance: Normal
Does anyone have any experience with the company Control Vision and their
products? They market what they bill as an aircraft electrical system on a
PC board. Good product? Too good to be true? I haven't checked the
archives or anything...
Here's the link to the product on their web page:
http://www.controlvision.com/frame.cfm?link=expbus.htm
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying an Engine |
Randy J. Pflanzer wrote:
>
>
> I'd appreciate any experience that any of you have had with
> Wentworth Aircraft in Minnesota. I called him to inquire on
> an engine and he has an O-320-D3G with 1900 TT and 450 SMOH
> for $9,500. Have any of you purchased an engine from this
> guy? Was your experience a good or a bad one. Thanks in
> advance for your comments.
>
> I'm about as far as I can go on the wiring without hanging
> an engine on the front so I'm looking hard for something,
> but patient enough to avoid a quick buying mistake.
>
> Randy Pflanzer RV-6
> N417G "Special Angel" - Wiring and various odds and ends.
>
I went to Minneapolis to talk to Wentworth about a used engine...they
never even bothered to call me with any follow ups.....be careful!!!!1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Bow Height |
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> >
> > Where should the rear of the slider canopy frame (WD-640) be relative to
> > the top fuse skin and rear canopy track (C-662/663)? Should it be even
>
>
> All told, I bent: forward slider bow, aft slider bows, side rails, plate
> holding rear anchor pins (too far out), top center bar. I also cut the the
> rear bows and shortened them (I also moved the point where they connect to
> the side rails inward by one plexiglas thickness, flush as delivered makes
> no sense - many have grooved the plexi to accomodate this problem).
> Additionally, the position where the top tube is welded onto the forward
> bow was not centered by 3/4", although I chose to leave it alone. For
> cosmetics only, I plan to cut and reweld where the forward roll bar support
> connects to the roll bar, so that it aligns with the off center slider
> frame.
>
> Just take a deep breath, and plan on a lot of work, it can be done. It is
> clearly the most challenging structural work of the 6A.
>
Yea verily all of the above is true, to the nth degree, and as I was doing it I
didn't see how it could be worth it. I even recommended to others to build a tip
up unless they were really crazy about the slider.
BUT now that I have flown with it for 175 hours, I can say that for me it was
worth twice the fuss. It is something that once you get used to, you cannot live
without. It is great, on all counts.
The psychological problem I had and still do, is that it shouldn't be this hard!
Hopefully by now Van has solved the fitting problems. I know that a new vendor
has been doing the windshield frames for the last couple years.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Kimura" <skimura(at)dnc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tie downs, was AirVenture '98 |
If you want to get a set of lightweight, strong, non-rusting tie downs,
check out http://www.airtimemfg.com/, or email airtime@proaxis.com
This is a new company making _titanium_ tie downs, as a result of getting a
plane destroyed due to failure of the dog leash type pegs. I just got a set
and they are way cool! I really hated toting around those steel pet stakes.
Oh, and prices I believe are at introductory levels right now, so I'd jump
on it if you are at all interested.
Steve Kimura
-6A VS
----------
> From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: AirVenture '98 (was: EAA Oshkosh '98)
> Date: Sunday, April 05, 1998 5:27 PM
>
>
> My copilot and I have already started planning our trip to Oshkosh
> with my SIX for this year. We plan on camping with the plane.
>
> My question is: What are the best anchors to buy for the trip to
> secure the aircraft to Mother Earth?
>
> Please respond off list if you do not think that this is a subject for
> the list.
>
> RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> ==
> Gary A. Sobek
> RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
> So. CA, USA
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical System on a PC Board. |
There should be info in the archives because this item has been discussed
pretty thoroughly before. IMO, it isn't worth pursuing.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Does anyone have any experience with the company Control Vision and their
>products? >http://www.controlvision.com/frame.cfm?link=expbus.htm
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 #1054
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim. |
>I can't imagine why they moved it to the tip. There is no need for additional
>authority IMO.
>
>Mine is on the root of the right aileron and it takes only slight actuation of
>the coolie hat to trim for all loading conditions. Of course, in my
>installation, I added foam and glass to make a little wedge (airfoil trailing
>edge) of the free hinge, so this may give it more authority from the get go.
>
>-GV
>
Why would it matter where the trim tab is placed? Moving it toward the tip
won't give it more authority, would it? Because the trim tab deflects the
aileron, not the whole wing. Doesn't it? It shouldn't matter where along
the trailing edge of the aileron that the trim tab is mounted, it should
deflect the same. By my thinking I would want it at the root, because
that's where the control rod connects. This would minimize any "twisting"
action being applied to the aileron caused by having the trim tab pushing
one way or the other on the opposite end as the control rod.
I could be all wet on this. This is just the result of my brain sitting
idle here when I should really be out in the garage riveting my wing spars
together..... :-)
Regards,
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Wing Spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | Bolt plating question |
Here's one from the "Stupid Question, He Should Know This" file. Does it
matter if the cadmium plating on the bolts gets rubbed off? During the
priming of my wing spar components, I managed to get primer into the reamed
holes for the close tolerance bolts. Don't let this happen, all you
non-Phlogiston, pre-wing kit guys. Since the only tool I had at home
suitable for cleaning this out was a close tolerance bolt, that's what I
used. In the process, one of the bolts got most of the plating scraped off.
I know that the bolt itself is not damaged, but will having the plating gone
harm it's useful life? These dogs are over $3.00 each from Van's. All the
ones I used for aligning my flange strips got some plating rubbed off.
Should I get new ones or should I shut up and go build an airplane?
Thanks for the knowledge....
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Wing Spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical System on a PC Board. |
Importance: Normal
> There should be info in the archives because this item has
> been discussed
> pretty thoroughly before.
Yep, I just found it in the archives.
> IMO, it isn't worth pursuing.
Your opinion, yes. My opinion: it depends.
I can understand the manufactuors point of view and also agree with Bob of
AeroElectic. There are pros and cons no matter which way you decide to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim. |
<< Why would it matter where the trim tab is placed? Moving it toward the tip
won't give it more authority, would it? Because the trim tab deflects the
aileron, not the whole wing. Doesn't it? It shouldn't matter where along
the trailing edge of the aileron that the trim tab is mounted, it should
deflect the same. By my thinking I would want it at the root, because
that's where the control rod connects. >>
By being farther out on the wing it has more ability to deflect the aileron
with less tab deflection. So it does have greater authority (moment wise).
It is because it is farther from the point of rotation (the a/c roll axis).
This is the same as putting the tail farther aft to increase its authority in
the pitch axis without increasing size.
For you engineers this is old stuff, but he asked, so I answered. The torsion
force over the length (width) of the aileron would be infinitesimal even at
full deflection.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Scholl <jwschol(at)Ibm.Net> |
| Subject: | Re: MAC Elevator Trim Servo |
Make sure you are not trying to mount the serve on top of the brackets.
It sits between the mounting plate and the top of the brackets. Take a
close look at the drawing.
Jon
RV6 Wings
>
>
> Hey All,
>
> I'm kind of confused as how to mount the MAC Elevator Trim Servo with the
> kit-enclosed Z-shaped supports. It looks to me like there's not enough
> room to mount the servo on the supports without the servo hanging up
> against the aft end of the supports themselves. It seems as though I'll
> need to shim the servo up in order to get everything to clear.
>
> Anybody else experience this issue?
>
> Nick Knobil
> Bowdoinham, Maine
> RV8 80549 LE / Trim Tab
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>
>Fellow builders and flyers,
>
> I need to build a hanger and I'm looking for anyone on the list who
>may have a lead on building an inexpensive(not cheap) hanger from
>scratch.
Well, first you get about 3 feet of 1/8" wire.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <airshows1(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Trade RV-6 tip-up for slider |
I have RV-6 tip-up with 80 hrs on factory new O-360 and c/s prop and would
like to trade for RV-6 with slider. Please e-mail me off-list. Thanks.
airshows1(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Moore" <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim. |
From: Vanremog
><< Why would it matter where the trim tab is placed? Moving it toward the
tip
> won't give it more authority, would it? Because the trim tab deflects the
> aileron, not the whole wing. Doesn't it? It shouldn't matter where along
> the trailing edge of the aileron that the trim tab is mounted, it should
> deflect the same. By my thinking I would want it at the root, because
> that's where the control rod connects. >>
>
>By being farther out on the wing it has more ability to deflect the aileron
>with less tab deflection. So it does have greater authority (moment wise).
>It is because it is farther from the point of rotation (the a/c roll axis).
I don't think so. Being further from the fuselage has nothing to do
with moving the aileron up or down. Now having the aileron farther
from the roll axis does affect the roll rate. If one wants to get very
technical, any tab deflection reduces the aileron effectiveness to a
small extent since the tab moves in the opposite direction and if
the tab is placed further outboard, the reduced effectiveness of the
outboard portion of the aileron would have to be made up by more
tab/aileron deflection. Root position seems best to this engineer.
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Peck <dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A Parts Bag / Plans cross reference database available |
I have available a database of the Parts Bag List and Plans Parts Index
for the RV-6 / 6A.
I have a field for Part Number, Part Name, Drawing, and Bag.
This allows you to search by part number to find what bag a part is in,
or find the drawings a part is on.
Available in Microsoft Works 3 format, or text and tabs which should be
able to be imported into any database.
If you would like a copy, or can use it on your web site, reply to me
at;
dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au
but have patience please as I usually only get online once a week
David Peck
making spray booth prior to
starting RV-6A empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Peck <dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Sport Aviation Database Update |
I have updated the database of technical type articles from Sport Aviation.
It now covers mid 1990 to March 1998.
There is a field for Title, Content (for when the title gives no clue
to the article), Date, Page, and ATA (being airline trained, and most often
I can am looking for an article about a specific subject I find this the
easiest way to group articles).
The ones that I thought RV related are book marked.
Available in Microsoft Works 3 format, or text and tabs which should
be able to be imported into any database.
If you would like a copy, or can use it on your web site, reply to me
at;
dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au
but have patience please as I usually only get online once a week
David Peck
making spray booth prior to
starting RV-6A empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt plating question |
<< Subj: RV-List: Bolt plating question
Date: 98-04-12 00:40:53 EDT
From: jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford)
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Here's one from the "Stupid Question, He Should Know This" file. Does it
matter if the cadmium plating on the bolts gets rubbed off? During the
priming of my wing spar components, I managed to get primer into the reamed
holes for the close tolerance bolts. Don't let this happen, all you
non-Phlogiston, pre-wing kit guys. Since the only tool I had at home
suitable for cleaning this out was a close tolerance bolt, that's what I
used. In the process, one of the bolts got most of the plating scraped off.
I know that the bolt itself is not damaged, but will having the plating gone
harm it's useful life? These dogs are over $3.00 each from Van's. All the
ones I used for aligning my flange strips got some plating rubbed off.
Should I get new ones or should I shut up and go build an airplane?
Thanks for the knowledge....
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Wing Spars
>>
Hi Jon,
Now that you have all the primer out of the bolt holes, and some of the cad
plating rubbed off of the bolts, the easiest solution is to install the bolts
wet with primer.
BTW, this is a standard aerospace practice for dissimilar metals.
This may be a mil spec process (Gil??). It is not neccessarily supported by
Van's airctaft, or the FAA. :-)
Just My Opinion. (JMO)
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim. |
<< Being further from the fuselage has nothing to do
with moving the aileron up or down. Now having the aileron farther
from the roll axis does affect the roll rate. If one wants to get very
technical, any tab deflection reduces the aileron effectiveness to a
small extent since the tab moves in the opposite direction and if
the tab is placed further outboard, the reduced effectiveness of the
outboard portion of the aileron would have to be made up by more
tab/aileron deflection. Root position seems best to this engineer. >>
I wasn't absolutely sure either but was hypothesizing that this was what Van's
engineers believed they were doing when they changed the span position of the
trim tab. I thought that the root position was best so that's where mine is.
I stand corrected that (1) the tab works against the hinge line,(2) the moment
imparted is unchanged by the spanwise position of the tab and (3) the aileron
is what rolls the a/c influenced by the tab.
So does anyone have a clue as to why they moved it? I took my shot, wrong as
it was. Come on you guys, hypothesize away. Don't be afraid, these flames
won't kill you.
-GV (returning to my physics books for a refresher course)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
>
>Nuckells might be right if one is using dry vaccum pumps. I went back
through
>my log books and found 9 pump failures. All were dry pumps. The pump on my
>1960 Tripacer went 4000 hours without a failure.
Not sure which of my words are referenced here but I'll recap the
analysis of electric versus vacuum with respect to reliability.
A vacuum pump becomes a single point of failure for both gyros
(of course, the electrical system is a single point of failure
for electric gyros too . . . unless . . . )
> . . . I fly a lot of IFR and I'll take my wet
>vaccum system with a simple standby over electric systems anyday. The BE30
>that I fly (KingAir 300) has one redundant electrical system after another,
>efis, etc. Several times we have come home with no electrics, but guess what
>? The vaccum (pressure actually) units were still working!
Which shows that the "redundancy" wasn't really there. It really
irks me that so many stories are told by pilots who bring
twins home "in the dark" that somebody doesn't wake up to
the deficiencies that MUST have existed in the system to
precipitate the event. Problem is, the systems are "certified"
and "conformed" . . . to raise any flags now is to admit
that there are problems with the original configuration
that got certified anyhow . . .
In amateur built airplanes, dual alternators also call for
dual batteries . . . totally independent electrical systems.
Either system should run goodies to get you home. Further,
when any system configuration is found deficient, the victim
will hopefully tell the story so that necessary changes
can be contemplated and implemented. For ALL the stuff
you see piled into a Kingair, it's still got only one
battery of significant capacity.
>Enough said...!!!!
I'll agree that the wet pump is 10X the reliability of
a dry one and that vacuum gyros are probably less prone
to failure than electrics (just from the parts count
perspective). Vacuum is still a viable energy source
for gyros on a classic engine configuration. The decision
takes on new urgency when the engine DEPENDS on electrical
power to run . . . perhaps then the vacuum pump pad becomes
more valuable as an alternator mount than as a vaccum
pump mount. If the electical system becomes truly redundant,
then electric gyros become more attractive because no
single failure brings down both gyros.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MAC Elevator trim servo |
| From: | gretz-aero(at)Juno.com (Warren Gretz) |
There is an alternative way of mounting the MAC elevator trim servo. I
did not like the method of mounting the servo inside the elevator. It
looked tedious, added weight to the elevator and had to be counter
balanced with LEAD.
My method employs the use of a short push/pull cable. It is very easy to
install the cable, and servo. The servo is mounted on the rear fuselage
deck, between the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical stabilizer and
covered over with the fiberglass fairing provided with the fuselage kit.
The weight of the servo is then farther forward and not adding weight to
the elevator. The only parts needed for the installation are the cable,
the servo, weldment wd-415 (shown in the plans for the manual trim cable
installation), a special sized clevis to attach the cable to the servo,
the metal clevis for the rear end of the cable to attach to the trim tab
control horn, and some small scrap pieces of angle and sheet material.
I can provide the hard to get items to make this kind of installation,
drawings, and instructions with photos. The list of items I can provide,
and the price follows:
New, push/pull cable of the correct length- $35
Surplus, but very serviceable push/pull cable like above(while they
last)- $18 Weldment wd-415- $6 (same price as Van's)
Special clevis for servo end of cable- $7
Bag of all mounting screws and nut plates needed- $3
Shipping is included in all of the above prices in the US if a cable,
weldment, clevis, and bag of hardware are purchased at once.
Also as a reminder, I provide heated pitot tubes, heated pitot tube
mounting brackets and ToolKey. Call or e-mail me for flyers on any of my
products or if you have further questions.
Warren Gretz, (Gretz Aero)
3664 East Lake Drive
Littleton, CO 80121
(303) 770-3811
gretz-aero(at)juno.com
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carol Knight <cknight(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Upholstery at Sun and Fun |
Kitplane Builders,
As I have received several more inquiries about my upholstery at Sun and
Fun, I am resending my original e-mail.
For those who asked if I would be at Sun and Fun, I won't; but my interiors
will. The owner of PaPa-51 has my interior in his Glasair and P-51 Mustang.
His Glasair is hard to miss. It is silver with a bright fuchsia and yellow
stripe with a blue bottom and blue leather interior.
SkyStar's factory-built Kitfox and Pulsar all have my interiors as do most
of the private owners of Kitfox.
There should be some of my interiors in the RV-6 and RV-4 there, but I don't
know whose will be there. You might ask the owners or you might be able to
match the interiors with the photos I sent out.
As I mentioned before, I have several interior upholstery products for other
models of kitplanes. Prices and photos for the RV-8 will be available soon.
Samples of fabrics will be provided upon request. Please indicate what type
fabric you are interested in and what color range. Again, photos are
available upon request.
If you have any further questions or comments, please let me know.
Telephone: (208) 342-2602; E-mail: cknight(at)rmci.net
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
I'm pretty sure the lawn darts (F-16s) have a gold plated canopy. The
Eagles had not much but then too we generally fly higher and can take
advantage of the natural AC, plus we all wear helments. Still on long
cross countries, I have gotten sunburn on my arms from rolling up the
sleeves of my nomex flight suit.
Gary Fesenbek
Roanoke, VA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RBusick505 [SMTP:RBusick505(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 10, 1998 11:50 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tinted Canopy
>
>
> When I lived in the Southwest I learned to wear a wide brim hat, it
> did a
> great job of keeping the sun off my thin head of hair and neck, but I
> have yet
> to figure out how to wear the hat and a headset. Even a sunshade
> probably
> will not be enough UV protection for the back of my head, I am
> seriously
> considering a helmet.
>
> Until I read most of the posts on this topic I thought that the Helmet
> option
> was probably the most expensive solution to the problem (around $1000
> with ANR
> communications). However, with all the inventive ideas from the list,
> I must
> admit that I am wrong.
>
> One suggestion was 24 carat gold tint, the list discussed this about a
> year
> ago and someone said that Airforce tests indicated that the tint
> effectively
> blocked all radio transmissions. Now this is truly heresay, and
> before I made
> a decision on the tinting I would want some more positive evidence one
> way or
> the other.
>
> Bob Busick
> RV-6
> Fremont CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Crash in South Dakota |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001E_01BD6609.3A03AC60"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BD6609.3A03AC60
Our local paper (Minneapolis) reports two people from Woodbury, MN died =
in an experimental plane crash in South Dakota. No date or type given. =
Does anyone know the type or info of this crash??
Thanks
Rick Osgood
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BD6609.3A03AC60
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
Our local paper (Minneapolis) =
reports two people=20
from Woodbury, MN died in an experimental plane crash in South Dakota. =
No date=20
or type given. Does anyone know the type or info of this =
crash??
Thanks
Rick =
Osgood
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BD6609.3A03AC60--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Builders in Wichita area |
I am building an RV-8 and will be spending much of the next few months in
Wichita. I am interested in visiting with RV-8 builders. I should be
available to provide assistance some evenings or Sundays.
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevators & wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot stuck in Wichita instead of home working
Transport Canada on the RV :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
Damn!!! I knew that message was going to start off the elect vs. vacuum
Jihad again!!!
Gary Fesenbek
based in
Roanoke, VA
presently in
Bordentown, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying an Engine |
----------
> From: John W. Fasching <fasching(at)chaffee.net>
> Randy J. Pflanzer wrote:
> > I'd appreciate any experience that any of you have had with
> > Wentworth Aircraft in Minnesota. I called him to inquire on
> > an engine and he has an O-320-D3G with 1900 TT and 450 SMOH
> > for $9,500. Have any of you purchased an engine from this
> > guy? Was your experience a good or a bad one. Thanks in
> > advance for your comments.
Randy,
A friend of mine in Ohio bought a 0-320 E3D from them a year before I had
to
buy an engine. He paid $4500 for his and it was 600SMOH. Mine was bought from
an individual and I paid $7000 for mine and it was 1180 SMOH. Boy was I
jealous.
Then my friend found metal in his oil filter (cam) and had to spend
another
$9000 to get it overhauled. I'm still running mine 650 hrs later with good oil
pressure and compression. I got logs, he didn't. Mine had been out of service
for a year, he had no idea how long his had been laying around a junkyard.
Advice- 450SMOH don't mean sh-- if it's been laying around collecting
rust. If
it comes with logs and the 450 hrs have been put on it within a reasonable
period of time (five yrs or less) you might be getting a good engine.
Jim
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harry E.\"Bud\" Hawkins" <hawkbud(at)gate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Florida Airpark home for sale |
ref RV-4 Bing it to Sun & Fun and sell it thru the Plane Parts Mart. We
have sold lots of partially built kits
Bud Hawkins Co Chairman
----------
> From: rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Florida Airpark home for sale
> Date: Saturday, April 11, 1998 8:40 AM
>
>
> My house isn't near SEATAC (sorry Mike), but it is for sale. It's
> at Treasure Coast Airpark, where there is one flying RV6A, another
> under construction (Bernie and myself), and two other RV's experiencing
> constructionus interruptus. See http://ntr.net/~rimbold/house.htm
>
> One of the RV's not being built is an RV4. The kit owner bought it
> partially completed and changed his mind. He would like to sell it
> to buy an RV8 kit. If you're interested, contact Brad at 561-595-5126.
> --
> --------
> Rob Rimbold
> rimbold(at)ntr.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Builders in Wichita area |
>I am building an RV-8 and will be spending much of the next few months in
>Wichita. I am interested in visiting with RV-8 builders. I should be
>available to provide assistance some evenings or Sundays.
Don't know of any . . but that doesn't mean their aren't
any. Give me a buzz sometime 676.3286 office hours 685.8617
evenings/weekends.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
.com>
>Damn!!! I knew that message was going to start off the elect vs. vacuum
>Jihad again!!!
>
Hmmmm . . . didn't know there ever was a war . . holy or otherwise.
For the most part, the two systems have fulfilled their intended
roles quite well over the years. Seems like a choice of one over
the other is driven by system requriements other than the need to
have any particular kind of gyro.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying an Engine, Wentworth |
The engine in my RV4 came from Wentworth, and has been fine. They are a
reputable outfit. The company that I work for part time buys salvage parts
from them often and they stand by what they sell. When it comes time to put
an engine on the 6 I will build, I'll look to Wentworth or Atlanta Air Salvage
for it.
Rick Bell RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Tach (wasTweaking RV-6 and me) |
<< Try hooking to only one system and see if it settles down.
>>
Bob: Originally I had one lead to the mag switch and the other not connected
to anything. Per EI, I have since connected both leads to the one mag switch,
but the problem persists.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
Nuckolls, I still don't follow you 100% on this discussion, but I'
ll buy you a beer at Sun-n-Fun!
Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt plating question |
<< Should I get new ones or should I shut up and go build an airplane?
>>
IMHO, I would replace the bolts with the plating removed. The plating is
there to protect against corrosion, and I would think that this is one of the
last places that I would want to have a corrosion problem. However, on the
other hand, this corrosion probably would not appear until your flying days
are done, unless you are a really young whippersnapper.
Jim Nice
RV6A
P.S. The point being, if the cadmium plating wasn't necessary, I would think
it would not have been placed on the bolts in the first place, Van always
trying to give us the best stuff while trying to balance cost.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rwbrv4 <Rwbrv4(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
Yeah but Gary isn't it great to live in a free country where guys like us can
HAVE different view points!!!
Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: Buying an Engine |
> > From: John W. Fasching <fasching(at)chaffee.net>
> > Randy J. Pflanzer wrote:
> > > I'd appreciate any experience that any of you have had with
> > > Wentworth Aircraft in Minnesota.
>
> Randy,
> A friend of mine in Ohio bought a 0-320 E3D from them a year before I had to
> buy an engine. He paid $4500 for his and it was 600SMOH. Mine was bought from
> an individual and I paid $7000 for mine and it was 1180 SMOH. Boy was I
> jealous.
>
> Then my friend found metal in his oil filter (cam) and had to spend another
> $9000 to get it overhauled. I'm still running mine 650 hrs later with good oil
> pressure and compression. I got logs, he didn't. Mine had been out of service
> for a year, he had no idea how long his had been laying around a junkyard.
Jim & Randy --
Wentworth has a so-so reputation amongst the builders in Minnesota. Some
of the guys mention his prices are high. Others complain that he's kind of
a "take it or leave it I can find someone else if you don't want it" kind
of guy.
But I stopped by the office before I ordered my tailfeathers -- fact-finding
mission and all that. They were very friendly and helpful when I was there.
It was shortly before closing, but Jim Wentworth (I think that's his name)
spent about a half hour with me talking about engines, avionics, what their
operation does and how they can help me.
I think what we're all finding, however, is that there's no cheap solution
for an engine. If you find a $4500 engine, you're getting what you paid
for, and you can assume need for an overhaul right quick.
If I were to go to Wentworth for an engine, I would buy one conditional upon
a mechanic's inspection. From what I understand, you can tell a lot about
the engine if you're willing to pull a cylinder. But that's probably good
advice for anyone who isn't either buying new or buying overhauled from a
reliable shop.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eprth(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
Listers,
I recently purchased quite a few tools from Micheal Brown of Brown Aviation
Tool and thought the list may be interested in the fact that the tools are
good quality and at decent prices. I thought they were very good to deal
with. Just thought someone looking for tools might find this info helpful.
Tim Houle
RV6 emp under construction
***************************
Tim Houle
email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
Can't one make a really cheap and reliable backup vacuum system simply by tapping
in to the intake manifold? It would seem that this would be the ultimate in
reliability. I suppose that the small vacuum leak could cause a mixture problem,
but any port will do in a storm.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim. |
>
> So does anyone have a clue as to why they moved it? I took my shot, wrong as
> it was. Come on you guys, hypothesize away. Don't be afraid, these flames
> won't kill you.
>
Aileron trim authority at low airspeeds? The root stalls first.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Builders in Wichita area |
At 13:02 12-04-98, you wrote:
>
>
>>I am building an RV-8 and will be spending much of the next few months in
>>Wichita. I am interested in visiting with RV-8 builders. I should be
>>available to provide assistance some evenings or Sundays.
>
> Don't know of any . . but that doesn't mean their aren't
> any. Give me a buzz sometime 676.3286 office hours 685.8617
> evenings/weekends.
>
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
I decided I wouldn't bother you on Easter Sunday - you probably don't get
much quiet time with the family as it.
I will be in Wichita until at least April 16th, and I will likely be back
for several weeks starting April 26th. I am staying at the Residence Inn
on Webb Road, 686-7331, room 123. I'll try and call you during the week
sometime.
Take care,
Kevin Horton
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Tim Houle wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I recently purchased quite a few tools from Micheal Brown of Brown Aviation
> Tool and thought the list may be interested in the fact that the tools are
> good quality and at decent prices. I thought they were very good to deal
> with. Just thought someone looking for tools might find this info helpful.
Tim & listers
I work about 3 miles from Brown Tool and have purchased some of my tools
from him. Michael carries a very good line of tools & supplies. I
recently purchased some extra clecos and side grips from him. I have
side grips from Avery's also, and Brown's have about twice the holding
power! I also puchased a small bucking bar from him that was perfect
for reaching up inside and riveting the HS & VS. Any new RV builders
out there looking for tools cannot go wrong on tool purchases if they
remember the ABC's of tool buying.......Avery's, Brown, & Cleaveland.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond OK
-6a Emp & Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty Emrath" <emrath(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim. |
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_016E_01BD664C.95D12020"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_016E_01BD664C.95D12020
Ok, here's my shot, for what it's worth (I should be building not =
sitting here). If the trim tab is on the tip end and if the efficiency =
is reduced as others have said, then you may have to hold down the =
switch longer, which may give you more sensitivity or feeling. As for =
me, I'm putting in manual trim. Flame suit on and fire extinguisher in =
hand. Fire away.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, April 12, 1998 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Aileron Trim.
>
>
><< Being further from the fuselage has nothing to do
> with moving the aileron up or down. Now having the aileron farther
> from the roll axis does affect the roll rate. If one wants to get =
very
> technical, any tab deflection reduces the aileron effectiveness to a
> small extent since the tab moves in the opposite direction and if
> the tab is placed further outboard, the reduced effectiveness of the
> outboard portion of the aileron would have to be made up by more
> tab/aileron deflection. Root position seems best to this engineer. >>
>
>I wasn't absolutely sure either but was hypothesizing that this was =
what Van's
>engineers believed they were doing when they changed the span position =
of the
>trim tab. I thought that the root position was best so that's where =
mine is.
>
>I stand corrected that (1) the tab works against the hinge line,(2) the =
moment
>imparted is unchanged by the spanwise position of the tab and (3) the =
aileron
>is what rolls the a/c influenced by the tab.
>
>So does anyone have a clue as to why they moved it? I took my shot, =
wrong as
>it was. Come on you guys, hypothesize away. Don't be afraid, these =
flames
>won't kill you.
>
>-GV (returning to my physics books for a refresher course)
>
>
>
>
------=_NextPart_000_016E_01BD664C.95D12020
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
Ok, here's my shot, for what =
it's=20
worth (I should be building not sitting here). If the trim =
tab is on=20
the tip end and if the efficiency is reduced as others have said, then =
you may=20
have to hold down the switch longer, which may give you more sensitivity =
or=20
feeling. As for me, I'm putting in manual trim. Flame suit =
on and=20
fire extinguisher in hand. Fire away.
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: =
Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Da=
te:=20
Sunday, April 12, 1998 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric =
Aileron=20
Trim.
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog =
<Vanremog(at)aol.com>
>
>=
In a=20
Being=20
further from the fuselage has nothing to do
> with moving the =
aileron up=20
or down. Now having the aileron farther
> from the roll axis =
does=20
affect the roll rate. If one wants to get very
> technical, =
any tab=20
deflection reduces the aileron effectiveness to a
> small extent =
since the=20
tab moves in the opposite direction and if
> the tab is placed =
further=20
outboard, the reduced effectiveness of the
> outboard portion of =
the=20
aileron would have to be made up by more
> tab/aileron =
deflection. =20
Root position seems best to this engineer. >>
>
>I =
wasn't=20
absolutely sure either but was hypothesizing that this was what=20
Van's
>engineers believed they were doing when they changed the =
span=20
position of the
>trim tab. I thought that the root position =
was best=20
so that's where mine is.
>
>I stand corrected that (1) the =
tab works=20
against the hinge line,(2) the moment
>imparted is unchanged by =
the=20
spanwise position of the tab and (3) the aileron
>is what rolls =
the a/c=20
influenced by the tab.
>
>So does anyone have a clue as to =
why they=20
moved it? I took my shot, wrong as
>it was. Come on =
you guys,=20
hypothesize away. Don't be afraid, these flames
>won't kill=20
you.
>
>-GV (returning to my physics books for a refresher=20
course)
>
>
>
>=20
p; =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; =20
Sites at=20
http://www.matronics.com =
; =20
|
>=20
| =
&=
nbsp; =20
--- &nbs=
p; =
; =20
href=3D"mailto:rv-list-request(at)matronics.com">rv-list-request(at)matronics.c=
om"=20
|
> | & put the word "[un]subscribe" in the=20
| =
&=
nbsp; =20
--- &nbs=
p; =
; =20
|
> | Please =
aggressively=20
edit quoted text on a followup =
posting! =20
|
>=20
p; =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; =20
------=_NextPart_000_016E_01BD664C.95D12020--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Skin to Skeleton |
Dear David,
When I started my RV8 I noticed a similar problem with rivit heads
protruding slightly and tried a variety a things to no avail. I finally
gave up after buying 2 different sets of cheap dimple dies and bought a set
of Avery "spring back" dies. This eliminated the problem. With these
dies I have been able to obtain perfect dimples every time. With these
dies the rivit fits PERFECTLY FLUSH every time and eliminates follow up
reaming etc.
Dick Martin
RV8 80124 finally finishing the last of the fuselage, waiting for engine
----------
> From: David M Wentzell
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: HS Skin to Skeleton
> Date: Saturday, April 11, 1998 4:15 PM
>
M Wentzell)
>
> My sequence for attachment of hor. stab. skin to skeleton is: cleco
> together, drill pilot holes, de-burr all sides, dimple, cleco back
> together, drill final holes, deburr, prime inside surface, rivet
together.
> Correct?, or am I getting too carried away here? Also, if the head of
the
> rivet seems to stick out just a little after dimpling is that OK (or even
> preferred)? Does the riveting then drive it totally flush? - or should I
> hit it again with the dimple die? Seems if I hit it too hard I get a
> smiley.
> rv6 - just starting. DW
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary E. Rush" <gerush(at)earthlink.net> |
I know this is a it depends questions... but I a nearing completion of my
wings for my RV-8 and have ordered the fuselage (due to arrive end of May).
I am curious for you 8 builders out there is the fuselage more or less time
consuming than the wings? How long did it take you for your wings and how
long did it take you for your fuselage?
See ya at Sun-n-Fun
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying an Engine |
Dont have experience personally but friends who have are not very
complementary of those guys. besides that they are very expensive.
log books are questionable if you even get them.
LKD8Wannabee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Sell Extra Aluminum? |
Does anybody know where to take aluminum to sell it (by the pound, like you
would cans)?. I have a complete, but unairworthy tail, including all control
surfaces, that I got with my RV-4. The tail was replaced after several hundred
hours due to the common trailing edge cracks. Anyway, there is a lot of
aluminum in that tail that ought to be worth something. Anybody know where to
take it?
Von Alexander
RV-8 #544
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sell Extra Aluminum? |
Look in the phone book for a scrap yard. Call around and ask for prices.
They buy by the pound.
Moe Colontonio
MAlexan533 wrote:
>
>
> Does anybody know where to take aluminum to sell it (by the pound, like you
> would cans)?. I have a complete, but unairworthy tail, including all control
> surfaces, that I got with my RV-4. The tail was replaced after several hundred
> hours due to the common trailing edge cracks. Anyway, there is a lot of
> aluminum in that tail that ought to be worth something. Anybody know where to
> take it?
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 #544
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheetah(at)saber.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 fuselage |
I've found the fuselage to be quite difficult compared to the wings. By
all means, purchased the Orndorf' video. Best of luck
Rob Miller
RV8 Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
Has anyone had any experience with Horizon Instruments? I am interested
in their electronic tach.
Thanks!
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, cowling & wiring
Seattle area
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| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
22>
<95345721.352fc996(at)aol.com>
<3.0.1.16.19980412105820.3abf088a(at)dtc.net>
>Can't one make a really cheap and reliable backup vacuum system simply by
tapping in to the intake manifold? It would seem that this would be the
ultimate in reliability. I suppose that the small vacuum leak could cause
a mixture problem, but any port will do in a storm.
>
>Brian Eckstein
>
A co-worker and acquaintance from a few decades back has
done that as an aftermarket add-on for certified ships.
His company was Precise Flight out of Bend, OR. The
engine can indeed be an alternate source of vacuum . . .
within limits.
Consider that for there to be a vacuum, the manifold
pressure must be several inches of mercury BELOW local
ambient pressure. Since most engines do an altitude
cruise at wide open throttle, tapping the intake
for backup vacuum requires that the throttle
be closed some amount . . . the gyros are RATED for
5" of vacuum . . . they may work on less but in any
case a reduction in available engine power is needed
to keep the hummers spinning. Depending on the altitude
you could find yourself very short on horspower after
the throttle is closed enough to keep the gyros up.
The stickiest scenario is go around when one is usually
expected to apply full throttle for climb and the
vaccum drops to essentially zero whilst climing back
into the clouds . . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
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| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | electric vs vaccum ag & dg |
Yes it really is and these discussions are very beneficial to me because
I'm pretty weak in the whole instrument and electrical area. What does
"Margaritaville Air Express" mean by the by. Does that mean you are
based in Key West or like to fly there?
Gary Fesenbek
RV6AQ
Roanoke, VA
Plane Jane Vacuum ag & dg.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rwbrv4 [SMTP:Rwbrv4(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 12, 1998 3:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: electric vs vaccum ag & dg
>
>
> Yeah but Gary isn't it great to live in a free country where guys like
> us can
> HAVE different view points!!!
> Rick Bell A&P RV4 N83RB "Margaritaville Air Express"
>
>
>
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| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Tach (wasTweaking RV-6 and me) |
<< Try hooking to only one system and see if it settles down.
>Bob: Originally I had one lead to the mag switch and the other not connected
>to anything. Per EI, I have since connected both leads to the one mag switch,
>but the problem persists.
Okay, this tells us it's a problem with the tach and not a wrestling
match between two different ignition systems for the tach's attention.
Have you been in communication with the manufacturer with this
bit of news? Any electronic tach should work well with a single
signal source. The problem with dual sources . . . ESPECIALLY if they're
not identical sources is that the timing pulses may not come out
exactly sycnronized with each other . . . the tach may get confused
and percieve that the engine is running twice as fast as true.
If the readings are jumpy with a single signal source, then there is
some deficiency in the tachometer's input signal conditioning and/or
installation . . . they should be able to help you with this. If
not, get me the name and number of a contact there. I'd be glad to
call them for you.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
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| Subject: | Manual or electric flaps (6a) |
| From: | paul lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
I had a one hour lesson with Mike Seager last Friday in "old blue." It
was a wonderful experience but I am re-evaluating my decision to use
manual flaps in my almost completed 6a. (Mike strongly recommends
electric flaps.) I have built the manual flaps with the flap lever
shortened a few inches as Van's recommends. My wife and I have been able
to sit in our fuselage and make motor sounds and I find the flap lever
more awkward to reach, now that the interior has everything in it, than
it was at first. Are there any RV Listers who have flown both and would
like to share advice? It would be very easy to convert my plane to
electric flaps at this point, on the other hand maybe I should wait until
I have flown with the manual flaps for a while.
Thanks in advance,
Paul
90% done, 90% to go in Michigan
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| From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
April 05, 1998 - April 13, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-en