RV-Archive.digest.vol-es
May 19, 1998 - May 26, 1998
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flaring primer tube |
>I went to flare my 1/8 copper priming tube last night and realised that
>*my* trusty Eastman flaring tool won't clamp tubing this small. How do I
>get it to fit my -2 T fittings. Does someone stock an itsy-bitsy flaring
tool?
>Leo Davies
ACS and others have 1/8" primer flaring blocks available. I know of no
adapters for Eastman (or any other) flaring tool to do Primer lines. Ask
around your local Chapter. This is just the kind of tool that a Chapter
should consider buying. Everyone needs it *ONE TIME* for a couple days,
and then never again until the next plane. Our Chapter has a Nicopress
tool (the big one with the handles) since one needs to do several cable
ends and not everyone is into doing 5-Tuck splices! ;-)
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Westover RV RendezVous |
Gary A. Sobek wrote:
>
> Anyone know how many RV's showed up?
>
> BTW, thanks Chris for inviting everyone. Are we going to do it again
> next year?
>
> ==
> Gary A. Sobek
Gary,
I counted 27 on the ground and 2 to 3 in the air after lunch. It was
great to see the variety there.
It was a great opportunity for us who are still building to get
pictures, crawl around the aircraft,
and speak with the guys who are flying.
Thanks to Chris, Bud, and the ladies who helped out!
Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage..ready to skin!
Cupertino, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: steenkeeng R410 |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>There is a new R410!! It is alleged to actually fit!!! Order P/N
>R410PP for
>around $5. I wish I had known this yesterday.....
>
>Check six!
>Mark
>
>
>
Yes it's true. It was one of the few parts that rookie builders seemed
to have problems with so engineering recently did a prepunch part that
was checked for fit on a PP rudder.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Hiney <dhiney(at)jps.net> |
Is there going to be a RV fly in at L45 (Bakersfield) in June?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flaring primer tube |
You can use the regular solder on brass fittings available for primer lines.
They are not cheap but offer a much stronger and reliable connection than
the Small 1/8 tube flares. After all reliability is what you are after. If
you
choose not to use them you might as well use the compression fittings
instead of the flare fittings. RV4 273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
Subject: | RV-4 fuse jigging |
More questions regarding jigging the bulkheads and longerons:
1) I assume that F-407 web has to be notched to clear the main longerons
though I havent found any mention or depiction of this in the plans or
manual anywhere. Is this correct? If this is required, why wasnt it done at
Vans like all the other notches on other bulkheads were?
2) Assuming the above is correct, it appears that these notches will be
placed about 3/8" - 1/2" down from where the flange starts on the F-407A's
if F407 is jigged using the dimensions given on SK-39; that is the flange
will need to be removed down to this point. Correct?
3) I assume the longeron horizontal surface must be notched where it passes
the bars on F-411 which serve as the mount for the horizontal stab. I cant
imagine you would want to notch the bars. Again I was unable to locate a
reference to this on the plans anywhere. Is this correct?
Is it just me or does the documentation for the fuse lack the detail that
was there when building the empennage and wings?
BTW, after spending much time (and $, bought a smart level) rejigging my
firewall, finally reduced the error mentioned last week to about 1/32".
Dont think I would be able to do better than that by rebuilding (still not
sure where I went wrong and what I would do differently) so I'm going to
use it as is.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Weight Penalty |
dear rv'ers
at the sun-n-fun, i saw some rv's finished so well you could not see evidence
of rivits, anyone know how this was accomplished? i tried to fill the heads
with light weight puddy, sanded smooth, primed with FEATHER FILL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
>Does anyone know of a available stab/wing jig in the Dallas area? Also I
had
>read in past issue of RV Aviator of a metal jig available, does anyone now
>of the manufacturer & aprox $'s.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>RV-8 Starting Horizantal Stab
>Email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
<< Is there going to be a RV fly in at L45 (Bakersfield) in June?
>>
You bet! 6 June. See ya there.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Weight Penalty |
dear rv'ers
at the sun-n-fun, i saw some rv's finished so well you could not see evidence
of rivits, anyone know how this was accomplished? i tried to fill the heads
with light weight puddy, sanded smooth, primed with FEATHER FILL . IT looked
very smooth until i painted it with imron and all the putty seams showed up
with reflection of the glossy coat. dissapointed with results, ready to
strip and start over unless the weight penalty isn't so great to sand and
putty some more? any comments would be help ful
thanks scott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
David,
June 6, for the Chapter 71 BBQ. There's always a bunch of RV's and Rocket's there.
I'll be there for sure, although not flyin my -6 :( It still needs a motor
and avionics! Anyone know of an easy bank to....No, I guess that would be
a bad idea. They probably would'nt let me build in the "Pen".
See ya there,
Laird SoCal
owens(at)aerovironment.com
RV-6 waiting on the finish kit (I can't wait to do the canopy! Really)
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, May 19, 1998 9:42 AM
Subject: RV-List: BFL fly in
Is there going to be a RV fly in at L45 (Bakersfield) in June?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Yohannes Kayir <yohannkayir(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
Fellow listers,
Does the aft facing, bottom flange of the stainless steel firewall on an
RV-4 go under the bottom (.040) of the belly skin or the other way
around? Not so clear in the plans. Thank you in advance.
Yohannes Kayir,
Pensacola, FL
RV-4 (fuselage out of the jig, in a week, I hope)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sport AV8R <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flaring primer tube |
Leo: following my A&P's advice I flared mine using a dull-tipped awl. Had to
hold the tubing in my hand (don't slip!) and worked the tip in, rolling the
side of the awl in ever-widening little circles to open the end of the tubing,
which is very soft and workable. Once you get enough of a flare for the nut
and sleeve to grip the tube, the fitting itself will burnish the flare as
things are tightened down. I have *not* yet had an opportunity to test this
installation, as my fuel system will continue to contain only air for the next
5 days, but soon enough I'll be gassing up for the first time, and if it
leaks, I'll let the list know.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
virginia
inspection 5/27!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
Subject: | Wanted RV4 or RV6 |
A friend of mine is looking for either an RV4 or RV6 to import to the UK
if you are selling please send details to me off list.
RV8 80274
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
On June 1 at 6 p.m., the Eugene RV Builders Group is having a mini-flyin at
the Creswell Airport located just south-east of Eugene, Oregon (Hobby
Field: see below for airport information). The purpose of the gathering
is to socialize (bring a potluck) and provide inspirational/motivational
rides to local builders/spouses/significant others and want-a-be's.
Someone at Van's will be flying down the RV-8A. I will have BBQ's hot if
you want to bring something to grill. We will be set up at the Local EAA
clubhouse on the south end of the field.
Ross Mickey
Finishing Kit 6A
++++++++++++++++++++++
Location
Lat/Long: 43-55-55.448N / 123-00-24.294W
(43.9320689 / 123.0067483) (estimated)
Elevation: 535 ft. / 163 m (estimated)
Variation: 19E (1985)
From city: 1 mile NE of CRESWELL, OR
Airport Operations
Facility use: Open to the public
Sectional chart: KLAMATH FALLS
Control tower: no
ARTCC: SEATTLE CENTER
FSS: MC MINNVILLE FLIGHT SERVICE STATION [1-800-WX-BRIEF]
NOTAMs facility: MMV (NOTAM-D service available)
Attendance: OCT-APR 0800-1800, MAY-SEP 0800-2000
Pattern altitude: 865 ft. AGL / 1400 ft. MSL
Segmented circle: yes
Lights: DUSK-DAWN
Beacon: white-green (lighted land airport)
Landing fee: no
Airline operations: not certified under FAR Part 139
Int'l operations: not permitted
Airport Communications
NOTE: Due to a database access problem, not all communications frequencies
may be listed. We
are aware of the problem. It will be fixed by June 18, 1998. Please do not
email about this. There
is nothing that can be done about it until then.
CTAF: 122.8
UNICOM: 122.8
Radio aids to navigate to the Airport
VOR radial/distance VOR name Freq Var
------------------- ----------------------- ------ ---
EUGr121/14.7 EUGENE VORTAC 112.90 20E
CVOr142/36.2 CORVALLIS VOR/DME 115.40 18E
Airport Services
Fuel available: 100LL 80
Airframe service: MINOR
Powerplant service: MINOR
Bottled oxygen: NONE
Bulk oxygen: NONE
Runway Information
Runway 15/33
Dimensions: 3100 x 60 ft. / 945 x 18 m
Surface: asphalt, in good condition
Runway edge lights: medium intensity
RUNWAY 15 RUNWAY 33
Traffic pattern: left left
Markings: basic basic
Markings condition: good good
Visual slope indicator: 2-light PAPI on left
Displaced threshold: no no
Touchdown point: no no
Obstructions: NONE NONE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Weight Penalty |
It is rather a waste of time to fill rivets. Feather fill might be great
but after all
this is a sheet metal airplane. Rivets are supposed to show!! What
happens when
the rivets work or the skin flexing causes the stuff to pop off??
Depending on
how much is used there can be a substancal weight gain. Weight adds up
quicker than you can believe.. Recomendation , Dont do it !
273sb RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
The skin should go under the firewall flange,, Keeps oil ect from getting
under
the .040 skin. Rule of thumb, skins should overlap front to back or
inboard
to out board. Just imagine you are the air flowing over it. which feels
better
or smoother.. 273sb RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Subject: | Oilcanning, final verdict? |
What was the final verdict on oilcanning? I have alot of it in two
panels on my elevator. It's perfectly straight, so I'm not sure what
caused it. Testing it at different temps didn't seem to affect it.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | airflow performance fuel injection |
To someone out there I had offered to send photos of my installation.
went on vacation, lost name of individual, ect ect..
are you still interested?????? 273sb RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
When trial fitting my flaps the forward "roll" of the flap stops on the
inboard edge of the flap brace(the part that steps up to rest on top of the
inboard doubler plate. The rest of the flap does not touch the flap brace.
Subsequently the flap does not line up with the aileron when jigged with
the wooden wing cutouts. Should the inboard foward end of the flap be
trimmed so the remainder touches the flap brace or is there some other
problem????
Bill Pagan
-80555 -tanks & things
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuse jigging |
From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Hi Mike
1, Correct. F-407 has to be notched to clear the upper longeron. The
joggle is already there but for some reason, the notch in the web was not
made . Mabey because this is in the area where the 2 sections overlap.
2, Do not recall having to cut away any flange at this point but may have
had to. The joggle at the top of 407A pretty much locates the longeron
position. do what is necessary to achieve the vertical dimension called
out.
3, look on Dwg. #30 upper R.H. ccorner, sectionB-B'. It says that the
longeron is to be notched to clear the F-411 vertical bars. The lower
longeron is left intact however and the bottoms of the bars are notched
Regards, Bill RV4, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
I cut mine to fit. (I cut off a portion of the 90 bend down on the
"roll" to clear the brace where it steps up.) It flys great. It will
line up after triming it.
---pagan wrote:
>
>
> When trial fitting my flaps the forward "roll" of the flap stops on
the
> inboard edge of the flap brace(the part that steps up to rest on top
of the
> inboard doubler plate. The rest of the flap does not touch the flap
brace.
> Subsequently the flap does not line up with the aileron when jigged
with
> the wooden wing cutouts. Should the inboard foward end of the flap be
> trimmed so the remainder touches the flap brace or is there some other
> problem????
>
> Bill Pagan
> -80555 -tanks & things
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144 <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> |
Bill Pagan asked:
>When trial fitting my flaps the forward "roll" of the flap stops on the
>inboard edge of the flap brace(the part that steps up to rest on top of the
>inboard doubler plate. The rest of the flap does not touch the flap brace.
>Should the inboard foward end of the flap be trimmed so the remainder touches
>the flap brace or is there some other problem???
I had this problem some time ago on my RV-6. The advice from the factory was:
Trim that portion of the flap back slightly, then bend a new flange. They
said this was a common problem.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Oilcanning, final verdict? |
Hi again Moe:
I sent Van's an E mail about my right elevator oilcanning, and Tom
said that it is not uncommon to get some in the control surfaces.
Bottom line is not to worry about it. Just the same, it really rubs me
the wrong way! My elevator is straight also, so I am quite puzzled as
to how this cropped up.
This *has* given me an idea for the name of my RV......the Tinman,
since it comes with its own oilcan!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171 on to the left elevator and that scary trim tab!
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV 4 Pat A <RV4PatA(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuse jigging |
In a message dated 5/19/98 6:01:26 PM, you wrote:
>
>2) Assuming the above is correct, it appears that these notches will be
>placed about 3/8" - 1/2" down from where the flange starts on the F-407A's
>if F407 is jigged using the dimensions given on SK-39; that is the flange
>will need to be removed down to this point. Correct?
>
>3) I assume the longeron horizontal surface must be notched where it passes
>the bars on F-411 which serve as the mount for the horizontal stab. I cant
>imagine you would want to notch the bars. Again I was unable to locate a
>reference to this on the plans anywhere. Is this correct?
Looks like you have it figured out ok to me. There is a note on dwg. 30 about
notching the longeron. There is other structure there to make up for what you
cut out. Have fun!
Pat Allender
Iowa City
-4 finishing forever
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV 4 Pat A <RV4PatA(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 5/19/98 9:13:52 PM, you wrote:
>
>Does the aft facing, bottom flange of the stainless steel firewall on an
>RV-4 go under the bottom (.040) of the belly skin or the other way
>around? Not so clear in the plans. Thank you in advance.
I put the stainless overlapping the skin. Looks good to me.
Pat Allender
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oilcanning, final verdict? |
<< Subj: RV-List: Oilcanning, final verdict?
Date: 98-05-19 21:01:20 EDT
From: moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net (MoeJoe)
What was the final verdict on oilcanning? I have alot of it in two
panels on my elevator. It's perfectly straight, so I'm not sure what
caused it. Testing it at different temps didn't seem to affect it.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe >>
Hello Listers and Lurkers,
The root rib and the tip rib have two different angles. Because of the
different angles of the ribs, the skin has a twist in it from one end to the
other.
This is a common design practice in homebults, but it doesn't make it correct.
Fortunately, there is a way to control any potential canning when you rivet
the skin down.
Rivet each end of the skin to the spar. Rivet the center point of the skin to
the spar. Rivet at the two mid points between the three rivets. Rivet at the
four mid points between the five rivets. Etc.
By the time you have half of the rivets installed, the skin should be locked
down, so you can install the remainder of the rivets.
Try this with clecos on a canned skin, and see for yourself.
BTW, what I just gave you was a standard practice from sixty years ago that
seems to have become forgotten.
Just an afterthought, aluminum sheets thinner than 0.032 thick can not support
its own weight. Just handling the 0.016, 0.020 and 0.025 skin panels by one
end can/will stretch the skin and create a canned section.
Additionally, removing the plastic film from the control surface skins can
stretch the skin, also.
It just takes a little care with the thinner sections to prevent creating
problems much later.
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
The pics of the RV Stand that I did are now up on Sam's site..
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/tips.html
Thanks again to Sam for a great site, and I hope this helps some of
you....It is a really handy method..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)
Controls and about to mount Empennage..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fred New <newf(at)ics.ee> |
On Tue, 19 May 1998, RVer273sb wrote:
> The skin should go under the firewall flange,, Keeps oil ect from
> getting under the .040 skin. Rule of thumb, skins should overlap front
> to back or inboard to out board. Just imagine you are the air flowing
> over it. which feels better or smoother.. 273sb RV4
The rule of thumb here isn't stated very clearly, but for less drag, front
to back, the back skin should go on top of the front skin. Imagine a tear
drop--blunt end ahead, tapered end in back. (In the archives, search for
"overlap" and "LesDrag".) For wings, the general consensus seems to be to
overlap like shingles so water doesn't get inside. The firewall flange
advice above makes sense too.
--
Fred New (newf(at)ics.ee) RV-6A wannabuild
Estonia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvbldr3170 <Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 5/20/98 12:12:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jorear(at)mari.net
writes:
<< This *has* given me an idea for the name of my RV......the Tinman,
since it comes with its own oilcan! >>
Well my wife has aptly named my RV-4 "the Mistress" becuase the airplane gets
all my love and attention (or so she says)
Regards Merle (flyin' in '99 ??) Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylortel.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flaring primer tube |
Avery Tools sells a flaring tool that will flare any tube from 1/8' to 3/4"
tubing.
Part # 212 . Made by Parker Hannifin the same folks that make your wheels and
brakes. Price $72.00.
Carroll Bird RV-4 just finished primer lines about two weeks ago.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
Subject: | fuselage in jig. |
What is the minimum amount of skins you can have riveted on the
fuselage before you remove it from the jig. I have all the
bottom skins on, and the side skins from the rear seat backward.
I need to move it from where it is. I would feel better waiting
until they are all on, but... Would it be safe with what I have
done? Thanks. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
I have tried to find out more about Jon's "golden" seat for
rv-4's, but have not. Has anyone else been lucky on this.
(price. availability, etc.) Thanks. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <TBronson(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Pneumatic squeezers |
Hi Folks,
Does anyone out there have an opinion on the suitability of alligator-type
(as opposed to the C-type) pneumatic squeezers for an RV project?
Thanks,
Tim - Pittsburgh - collecting tool$
PS - I like the idea of signing off with your location. It helps me get an
idea of where all these RV's are going together and flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MLaboyteau <MLaboyteau(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Hobbs time or tach time? |
During the flight testing period, what is used to determine that you have
met the 25 or 40 hour requirment spelled out in the operating limitations? Is
it tach time or "Hobbs" time? Because usually, one hour of hobbs, or flight
time, will not put a full hour on the tach.
Anyway, I've put 3.5 hours on the tach, and solved the heavy left wing. It
took two tries at squeezing the right aileron trailing edge, and it now flies
straight as an arrow. The next thing I want to work on is my oil temp. I think
that my inlet to the oil cooler may be the problem. I don't think there's
enough space for the air to diffuse properly, and its only cooling a 3"
diameter circle in the center of the cooler.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV s/n 22960
The testing continues ...........
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: fuselage in jig. |
<< What is the minimum amount of skins you can have riveted on the
fuselage before you remove it from the jig. I have all the
bottom skins on, and the side skins from the rear seat backward.
I need to move it from where it is. I would feel better waiting
until they are all on, but... Would it be safe with what I have
done? Thanks. Michael
>>
Micheal:
You can move the thing, but you will have to re-jig the fwd fuse before
riveting the fwd skins on. A slight twist could be present if you turn it over
and proceed to rivet the thing together. If you are aware of the method of
finishing a Stewart S-51 QB fuse, you might get away with using that method.
Can you leave it in the jig, and move the whole thing? You will still need to
re-level the jig, but this may be a safer method.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | fuselage in jig. |
Michael,
My RV-6A is still pretty flexible from the F-604 to the firewall with
all the skins on except the front bottom. I would at least want the
front skins clecoed in place before moving it around.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A fuselage upside down in the jig for landing gear drilling
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 1998 8:18 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: fuselage in jig.
What is the minimum amount of skins you can have riveted
on the
fuselage before you remove it from the jig. I have all
the
bottom skins on, and the side skins from the rear seat
backward.
I need to move it from where it is. I would feel better
waiting
until they are all on, but... Would it be safe with what
I have
done? Thanks. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kelvin Rempel" <krempel(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | RV Builders in Alberta |
I'm looking for any builders or pilots of RV's in the Alberta region,
specifically Edmonton. My fiance and I are looking at purchasing an RV-6
kit in the near future and would like to look at what's involved, and maybe
try on the cockpit for size before we plunk down money on the kit. Reply's
can be forwarded to krempel(at)telusplanet.net .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuse jigging |
Thanks Bill,
I thought I had seen that reference to notch the longerons @ F-411 at some
time in the past, but when I went back looking for it I couldnt find it.
Now on to the next problem. On the advice of a couple of listers and a
local builder, when I assembled my firewall I went ahead and rivetted on
the WD-402/403 weldments. Now that the firewall is jigged and I'm trying
to fit the longerons, the angle on WD-402s is wrong. That is the WD-402s
should point at the tops of F-404 so that the longerons will nest in the
weldment and properly fit the F-404. A straight edge placed on the
horizontal surface of the weldment should contact the jig at 28 9/16", but
on mine it is still 3/4" above the jig at this point. With the longeron in
place on the jig, the forward part of the longeron contacts the weldment
but there is a gap at the aft end of the weldment of about 1/8" (this gap
on the horizontal part of the arm of the weldment). If I pull the longeron
into place with a clamp, the longeron bows between the firewall and F-404.
Shims between the weldment and longerons would seem to be unacceptible, as
would shims between the weldment and the vertical firewall stiffeners. Any
advice on this?
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Hi Mike
>3, look on Dwg. #30 upper R.H. ccorner, sectionB-B'. It says that the
>longeron is to be notched to clear the F-411 vertical bars. The lower
>longeron is left intact however and the bottoms of the bars are notched
>
>Regards, Bill RV4, N66WD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Pneumatic squeezers |
>Does anyone out there have an opinion on the suitability of
>alligator-type
>(as opposed to the C-type) pneumatic squeezers for an RV project?
>
>Tim - Pittsburgh - collecting tool$
Tim:
I have a alligator ttype & please buy the C type. I have to use washers
to get the right height because the ram is not adjustable. Bob Avery's is
a good one I have heard.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Yohannes Kayir <yohannkayir(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
Subject: | firewall/bottom skin |
Thanks for all the replies.
While we're on this subject, I recall reading something to the effect
that we are better off not riveting this same forward bottom belly skin
(F-422). Until when? What are the benefits?
Thanks.
Yohann
Pensacola, FL.
RV-4 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezers |
> Does anyone out there have an opinion on the suitability
> of alligator-type (as opposed to the C-type) pneumatic squeezers
> for an RV project?
We've got both, and they're WWII era. The C-type squeezer gets used
very frequently. The alligator-type is very difficult to line up
straight, even with two people. Off-center rivets of drill-out
quality happen frequently with it. I wouldn't pay for one, but if
you're gifted with one, like us, then I wouldn't throw it out. I'd
just explore every avenue before using it.
--
--------
Rob Rimbold
rimbold(at)ntr.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | nfrance(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (NEIL FRANCE) |
Subject: | Re: Andair fuel valve. |
Is there anyone out there who knows of a U.K. source for the Andair fuel
valve suitable for the RV6.? Also any advice on obtaining or making the
stall warning device parts for U.K. approval would be welcome.
Thanks in advance
Neil France.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Heavyweight starter for sale |
From: | rvinfo(at)Juno.com (Dave Smith) |
I have a new Prestolite MZ-4222 starter for sale. This is a geared
starter for 149 tooth lycomings. This is a new starter, not a rebuilt.
$250 shipping included.
Bruce Green
BruceGreen(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuse jigging |
<< That is the WD-402s
should point at the tops of F-404 so that the longerons will nest in the
weldment and properly fit the F-404. >>
Mike,
Part of your problem might be that you are trying to install the
longerons inside the weldment. They are supposed to be on the outside of the
weldment.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4131rb <RV4131rb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: firewall/bottom skin |
<< While we're on this subject, I recall reading something to the effect
that we are better off not riveting this same forward bottom belly skin
(F-422). Until when? What are the benefits?
>>
Yohan,
Until the bottom skin is installed, it goes under this flange. No
benefit thats just the way it is.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezers |
Tim,
I asked this question before I bought my C type squeezer. I found the
opinions mostly negative. Although I have found many places on the
empennage where I wished I had one, the alligator squeezer is not as
flexible and guarantees that you start your rivet squeeze at an angle
of some degree. This may or may not be a big deal, I suppose, and
probably requires a little more finesse. Now, if I could find a used
one really cheap, I'd snag one. There are tight places where it is
just the thing, but if you only buy one, get the C Frame.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
-6A LE
______________________________ Reply Separator ____________________________
_____
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic squeezers
Date: 5/20/98 1:20 PM
Hi Folks,
Does anyone out there have an opinion on the suitability of alligator-type
(as opposed to the C-type) pneumatic squeezers for an RV project?
Thanks,
Tim - Pittsburgh - collecting tool$
PS - I like the idea of signing off with your location. It helps me get an
idea of where all these RV's are going together and flying.
"rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
subject.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hobbs time or tach time? |
>
> During the flight testing period, what is used to determine that you have
>met the 25 or 40 hour requirment spelled out in the operating limitations?
Is
>it tach time or "Hobbs" time? Because usually, one hour of hobbs, or flight
>time, will not put a full hour on the tach.
As defined in FAR part #1
"Time in service", with respect to maintenance time records, means the time
from the moment an aircraft leaves the surface of the earth until it touches
it at the next point of landing.
Flight time means:
(1) Pilot time that commences when an aircraft moves under its own power for
the purpose of flight and ends when the aircraft comes to rest after
landing; or
(2) For a glider without self-launch capability, pilot time that commences
when the glider is towed for the purpose of flight and ends when the glider
comes to rest after landing.
These came from the FAR's at www.landings.comTailwinds,
My guess is the FAA would chose the time in service method to answer your
question.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AIRPLANEIT <AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
There's an RV-6 hopping around the Twin City area with a frog painted on the
tail, and the name "RiVit"
-Nick Stolley
Woodbury, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
The name of my someday-to-be-flying RV-8 will nothing but "HEY-HO-A-LENA"!
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
(Located between Bowdoin, Maine and Merrymeeting Bay - Bowdoin is the green part
and Merrymeeting Bay is the blue part)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
Rvbldr3170 wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 5/20/98 12:12:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jorear(at)mari.net
> writes:
>
> << This *has* given me an idea for the name of my RV......the Tinman,
> since it comes with its own oilcan! >>
>
> Well my wife has aptly named my RV-4 "the Mistress" becuase the airplane gets
> all my love and attention (or so she says)
>
> Regards Merle (flyin' in '99 ??) Miller
RV'ers
My wife named mine "Li'l Huzzy". Says I spend more time with that "Li'l
Huzzy" than I do with her!!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Bright <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezers |
The c-frame ones are not adjustable either in standard form. Avery sells an
adjustable set holder.
John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john.bright(at)bigfoot.com, RV-6/6A 25088,
elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pilla, Michael" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
My wife has named my RV-4 (in progress) "Brass Handle" after the Monty
Python skit (the most boring guy, even his parents walked away from him,
etc.) My wife claims that homebuilding guys get so enthusiastic and
talk about all this boring stuff; so "Brass Handle" it is. I'm
seriously thinking of painting it on the side :-)
Mike Pilla
RV-4, #2866, plumbing the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355 <JNice51355(at)aol.com> |
I was kinda thinking of naming my RV6A MISS OVERTIME, since overtime pay is
what is mostly paying for this project.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
amp 497 Watt version costs $189 and puts out 1,696 BTU's
at 85 cubic feet per minute. All the hardware for an exhaust pipe setup
looks like it will run between $200 - $220. Minimal homepage at
www.dcthermal.qpg.com 281-486-0507
Ross Mickey
6A Finishing Kit- Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
I am about to build my empennage control surfaces. What is this "oilcanning" all
about. And what can I watch for to eliminate the potential problem.
Thank you
Gerald
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
First attempts at riveting elicited the nick-name
"Bondo Bomber"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)bigskytel.com> |
>
> You can use either, but Hobbs time is generally used for airframe hours
> and tach time is usually used for engine hours for TBO purposes.
> Assuming that your Hobbs starts running on engine start and shuts off on
> shutdown, then that is legitimate "time".
>
> As for your cooling problem, I would suggest checking a few things
> before you try to get more air to the cooler. I know a couple of local
> builders that had oil temps that were a bit high, but it was caused be
> cooler obstructions or mis-routing of the hoses rather than a lack of
> air. My installation runs a 3" SCAT tube to the cooler and if anything
> it runs too cool. I have a cockpit adjustable flap that can block off
> some to all of the air going to the cooler and unless the OAT is above
> 70, it is usually blocked off to keep the oil temp at 180. Especially
> if you are using a used oil cooler, have it cleaned and flow tested to
> make sure there are no obstructions. Also make sure the hoses are going
> to and from the proper ports on the engine. Also, #8 hoses are more
* efficient than #6. Good luck.
* >
Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy@bigskytel.com http://www.bigskytel.com/~ebundy/
>
>
> During the flight testing period, what is used to determine that you
> have
> met the 25 or 40 hour requirment spelled out in the operating
> limitations? Is
> it tach time or "Hobbs" time? Because usually, one hour of hobbs, or
> flight
> time, will not put a full hour on the tach.
>
> The next thing I want to work on is my oil temp. I think
> that my inlet to the oil cooler may be the problem. I don't think
> there's
> enough space for the air to diffuse properly, and its only cooling a 3"
> diameter circle in the center of the cooler.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
Hi all,
My RV is called "Valentine" as wife and I picked it up at Van's on Valentine's
Day 1997. It may keep the name and even have an insignia where stars and bars
go - a heart with an arrow thru it.
I want yellow over orange but aren't Valentine colors more like white and red??
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Sliding canopy fit at rear |
Hi all,
I'm having trouble getting my canopy frame below the skin at the rear. I assume
it must be below the level of the F6112 - if it is it looks like the rear skirts
will fit easily. Am I right?
One thing I did to get it lower was replace the UHMW block with a roller and two
"L" shaped keepers. Works with little finger. Anyone see problems I might
later face with this setup?
Is the canopy is pushed upwards during flight or downwards? If the inflight
loads are upwards and strong then my roller deal might be unsafe.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Weight Penalty |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
> dear rv'ers
> at the sun-n-fun, i saw some rv's finished so well you could not see
>evidence
> of rivits, anyone know how this was accomplished? i tried to fill
>the heads
> with light weight puddy, sanded smooth, primed with FEATHER FILL .
>IT looked
>very smooth until i painted it with imron and all the putty seams
>showed up
>with reflection of the glossy coat. dissapointed with results, ready
>to
>strip and start over unless the weight penalty isn't so great to sand
>and
>putty some more? any comments would be help ful
>thanks scott
>
>
>
Scott, Is this a whole airplane you have painted with this problem or
just a small portion of it?
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 3/4x3/4x.062 Angle |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Doe's this angle go full width on the f-605E that the seat back slips
>into?
>Or do you cut it in 16" lengths the same as the 2024 T3 shims?
>
>Regards Mike Comeaux
>
>RV6A--QB
>
>
>
>It goes full length as one piece. This adds stiffness to the F-605
bulkhead also.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
The Pink Panther came about because when I bought my -4 it had pink trim, It
looked really good, but I believe that pickup trucks, airplanes, and
lipstick, should all be "Blood Red."
I certainly could not stand for the Mary Kay jokes etc. so my plan was to
paint the airplane. My wife was even teasing me and said I should put a
pink flamingo on the tail, NOT! But a panther might work...... I thought.
I put a note pad in my (red)truck and started writing down captions. The
one that stuck was "got a problem with pink?"
I would not paint it for anything now. It was a big hit at OSH and every
where else I go, It really draws people to the airplane and gives me an
chance to tell all the story of RV's and home made airplanes. I would
highly reccommend nose or tail art and a name for your bird!
Tailwinds from MCW,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr pink panther pictures here!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV 4 Pat A <RV4PatA(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuse jigging |
In a message dated 5/20/98 6:14:29 PM, you wrote:
>the angle on WD-402s is wrong.
I had the same problem on mine, and Tom at vans suggested splitting the
weldment where it bends and bending the resulting tabs to fit. I guess the old
weldments were built that way to start with. I did not like the idea of taking
a hack saw to the nice new parts, but I could not think of any other way to do
it. When the longeron is bolted and riveted to the tabs they aren't going
anywhere. The thing I didn't like about it when it was done was that the edge
distance for the bolts was a little slim where the longeron fastens to the
weldment.
I wish they would get that fixed. Good luck, whatever you decide to do.
Pat Allender
Iowa City
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
>My wife has named my RV-4 (in progress) "Brass Handle" after the Monty
>Python skit (the most boring guy, even his parents walked away from him,
>etc.) My wife claims that homebuilding guys get so enthusiastic and
>talk about all this boring stuff; so "Brass Handle" it is. I'm
>seriously thinking of painting it on the side :-)
And I'm going to paint my wife's name on the side of my RV-6. She deserves
it for being so supportive and understanding for all these years. I figure
that if Chuck Yeager can paint "Glamorous Glennis" on the nose of his
airplanes, I can paint "Marvelous Merry Ann" on mine.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
Glendale, AZ
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Bright <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
My building notes are at http://www.hroads.net/~john/ if anyone wants to
visit.
John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john.bright(at)bigfoot.com, RV-6/6A 25088,
elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Elevator spar, E-602pp |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>We have a possible problem with the elevator spar, part E-602pp.
>After
>dimpling, the spar developed a slight twist and curve along its
>length. Our
>concern is if this condition will cause problems later on down the
>line?
>Will it cause "oil canning?" The elevator looks okay after clecoing
>the
>spar into the jig and attaching its skin. But we are concerned about
>this
>condition and will not rivet, yet. What do you think, continue to
>truck, or
>get a new spar?
>
>Jim Tillman and Chris Landry
>RV8, 80655, wings to be delivered 6/18
>Newnan, GA
>
>
Jim,
Unless you have done something wrong it should be fine. Dimpling a spar
flange like this does tend to put a slight bow in it but it still lines
up ok. This is the same way 4000 + other empennages have been built.
Keep at it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: DC Thermal Cabin Heaters |
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
> The 12 volt 35 amp 497 Watt version costs $189 and puts
> out 1,696 BTU's at 85 cubic feet per minute.
500W isn't a lot of heat, but then it doesn't have to heat a lot of
space. Probably plenty for an RV, I guess, unless it's leaky. The $189
won't include wiring, fuse, and switch, I guess.
> All the hardware for an exhaust pipe setup
> looks like it will run between $200 - $220.
The installation price isn't the only consideration.
Check whether it's on/off, or is the heat output controllable?
You'll need a larger (heavier, more expensive) alternator to pump out
35 Amps continuously PLUS run radios, landing lights, etc.
Remember that the 500W is initially provided by your engine (how many
HP is 500W?). When the heater's on, your engine will need to produce
more power and will therefore use more fuel. You'll also have reduced
rate of climb and increased takeoff roll.
OTOH, exhaust heat is essentially free (after you've paid for the
installation hardware).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oilcanning, final verdict? |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Hello Listers and Lurkers,
>
>The root rib and the tip rib have two different angles. Because of
>the
>different angles of the ribs, the skin has a twist in it from one end
>to the
>other.
>This is a common design practice in homebults, but it doesn't make it
>correct.
>
>Jim Ayers
>Least Drag(at)aol.com
>Thousand Oaks, Ca.
>
>
>
>
Jim, I'm not entirely disagreeing with you, but I'm not so sure that a
twist in the skin is causing the problem (not entirely any way).
Because the ribs have different tapper angles... I agree that if they
where perpendicular to the trailing edge, then what you say would be so.
But they are not 90 degrees to the trailing edge, and they are different
lengths on the cord line so it is possible they are not flat after
assembled.
The reason I replied to your post was to mention some other things that
can cause the oil canning on control surfaces.
If the rib flanges are not adjusted to the correct angle to mate flush
with the skin it will attempt to pull the skin to match the rib (the rib
material is heavier than the skin, particularly the .016 that is on
RV-3,4,and 6's)
Since the tail surfaces do taper (particularly the rudder) the rib
flanges have to be adjusted to something other than 90 deg.
Another thing that can cause a problem is after finishing the metal work
you install the fiberglass tips. they sometimes don't lay flush on the
skins or flanges that have been riveted on so that when you install the
blind rivets it pulls the flanges out of line which then tweaks the skin.
And we all know that tweaked skins can cause oil cans.
Hope this is also of some help.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuse jigging |
<3.0.3.32.19980520081353.00c8951c(at)manta.nosc.mil>
From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Mike:
I'm having a little trouble visualizing this but is it possible that you
have the longerons inside the weldment? The longerons should be on the
outside such that the skin when installed will transition smoothly from
the longeron to the firewall flange.
Regards, Bill, N66WD S.W. Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: DC Thermal Cabin Heaters |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 20, 1998 4:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: DC Thermal Cabin Heaters
>
>Has anyone tried the STC'd, in-cabin, instant infra-red forced air heaters
>sold by DC Thermal, Inc.
>. The 12 volt 35 amp 497 Watt version costs $189 and puts out 1,696 BTU's
>at 85 cubic feet per minute. All the hardware for an exhaust pipe setup
>looks like it will run between $200 - $220. Minimal homepage at
>www.dcthermal.qpg.com 281-486-0507
>
>Ross Mickey
>6A Finishing Kit- Oregon
>
I am very interested as well, but to augment the muff heaters -- I like
winter flying, night flying included.
The 497 W is achieved at 14.2 V, not 12V.
At 75% power from a 150 HP engine I estimate the power out the exhaust to be
about 17 kW (for 60% Carnot efficiency and one half of heat to exhaust, one
half to cylinders and other non-exhaust). You need only capture 3% of that
with the heat muff(s) to equal the 497W, so I suspect the 35A heater will
not be enough in cold (20F OAT) conditions. I'd like to hear from someone
who has done a more rigorous calculation!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Barrington, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
PINK?????YUK!!!!!I HEAR EVEN ITS OIL IS PINK!!!!!
IT JUST BETTER BE FAST OR THE PANTHER WILL BE FISH FOOD
GUESS WHATS COMIN DOWN THE LINE DOUGIE!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | cooloing the mags |
Does somebody out there have a really good way to cool the mags?
Tony B. seems very adamant about doing this.
While we are at it who's cooling the gascolator and fuel pump?
It was 101 degree's here in Tallahassee today. I was thinking about
vapor lock, and the problems it could cause. I was hoping someone
has already given some thought to this and had come up with a
good plan.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvator97 <Rvator97(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hobbs time or tach time? |
Mark, Is yours a new/ or 0 - time rebuilt engine? My rebuilt motor ran fairly
hot( 210-220 f) until about 25 hours; then cooled down sustantially. Flew her
over four hours last Sunday with climbs to 10,500 ft.; oil temp never exceeded
200 F.
Walt. RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Andair fuel valve. |
<< Is there anyone out there who knows of a U.K. source for the Andair fuel
valve >>
Huh? I thought Andair was based in Britain. Check their website. It's
listed in the Yeller Pages on the net.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: cooloing the mags |
>Does somebody out there have a really good way to cool the mags?
Many certified ships have "blast tubes" from the aft baffles aimed at the
mags. Think 3/4" EMT conduit....
>Tony B. seems very adamant about doing this.
So are the mag manufacturers!
>While we are at it who's cooling the gascolator and fuel pump?
Many certified ships have "collars" around the FP and Gascolator with small
SCAT running to them. 1" on some 2" on others. Most are simply a 0.025"
AL cylinder of rolled sheet with oversize holes for each hose to go in or
out. This is connected to the SCAT off an aft baffle. Saw one once at OSH
on an EZ which combined gascoltor mounting bracket and cooling shroud all
in one piece.
>It was 101 degree's here in Tallahassee today. I was thinking about
>vapor lock, and the problems it could cause. I was hoping someone
>has already given some thought to this and had come up with a
>good plan.
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
>Tallahassee,FL.
Orange Aeroquip Fire Sleeve on all exposed hoses in the engine compartment
is a good way to reduce heat soak and vapor lock potential for fuel and
increase useful life on other hoses.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
Subject: | Re: DC Thermal Cabin Heaters |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 20, 1998 6:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: DC Thermal Cabin Heaters
>
>Has anyone tried the STC'd, in-cabin, instant infra-red forced air heaters
>sold by DC Thermal, Inc.
>Ross Mickey
>6A Finishing Kit- Oregon
>
>I found the heater to be a fair hand warmer at best in my RV-4. Due to
alternator output (35 amp) I was only able to run 2 of the 3 coils but I
don't think all 3 would be much of an improvement. I don't have any cockpit
insulation which certainly didn't help. An attractive idea but didn't work
for me. Did I mention mine is for sale at an attractive price?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Subject: | Re: Oilcanning, final verdict? Oops! |
Well, after reading scott's post I think I know what caused my problem.
After riveting my elevator, I noticed that my rib flanges were not quite
90deg. The skin made kind of a ski slope effect at either end of the
elevator. I put a hand seamer to them, skin and all, and bent them
inline so the skin laid nice and flat. I noticed the oilcanning after
this. I should have known better, but I guess I'm still learning. Oops.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
> Another thing that can cause a problem is after finishing the metal work
> you install the fiberglass tips. they sometimes don't lay flush on the
> skins or flanges that have been riveted on so that when you install the
> blind rivets it pulls the flanges out of line which then tweaks the skin.
> And we all know that tweaked skins can cause oil cans.
>
> Hope this is also of some help.
>
> Scott McDaniels
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Gerald
Oilcanning is a term used for a condition where if you press on an
area of aluminum skin, for example on a control surface, and an area
next to where you are pressing pops up. It is the result of having the
skin in compression, where it is not tight.
On the control surfaces, the main way to prevent it is to ensure
that your fixtures on which you build them are aligned properly so as to
not build in a twist to the surface. I am still pondering why I have
gotten some in one elevator, but that is another story. It has been
suggested that due to the empenage control surfaces using .016 skins,
one must be very careful how you handle them, such as removing the
protective vinal. Since the skins are so thin, one can easily distort
them.
Once we move on to the wings, a good way to prevent oilcanning is to
heat the skins prior to drilling and riveting. This will cause the skin
to expand, but not the skeleton beneath. When the skin cools, it will
contract and tighten up.
Hope this clears things up for you.
Regards, '
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171 Left Elevator
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy fit at rear |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Hi all,
>
>I'm having trouble getting my canopy frame below the skin at the rear.
> I assume
>it must be below the level of the F6112 - if it is it looks like the
>rear skirts
>will fit easily. Am I right?
>
>One thing I did to get it lower was replace the UHMW block with a
>roller and two
>"L" shaped keepers. Works with little finger. Anyone see problems I
>might
>later face with this setup?
>
>Is the canopy is pushed upwards during flight or downwards? If the
>inflight
>loads are upwards and strong then my roller deal might be unsafe.
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
>
The aerodynamic loads on the RV canopys are generally upwards at the
rear.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: cooling mags and more |
<< Does somebody out there have a really good way to cool the mags?
Tony B. seems very adamant about doing this.>>
The ribbed 5/8" hoses that Van's sells are good and light for this purpose.
<< While we are at it who's cooling the gascolator and fuel pump?>>
I'm cooling the gascolator, but not the pump. I used 1" SCAT tubing to a s/s
shroud.
I have placed Tempilabels on various things within the new O-360 engine
compartment on my 6A and I keep my oil temp at about 185F with a cockpit
adjustable oil cooler door. These are the max temps I have gotten in about 60
hrs of flying (and heat soaking post-flight on the ramp) in 75F max ambient
air. Gascolator shroud 170F, Fuel pump bottom cover 150F, Rocker Covers
(with the non-stock thick silicone gaskets installed) 250F, Rear Baffle 180F
and Upper Engine Crankcase 210F. This gives a good idea of the temp
distribution on things and if the deltaTs track roughly the same offset in
hotter ambient conditions, the gascolator might be able to boil water in
Phoenix.
I'll put some Tempilabels on the mags next chance I get and let the list know
the temps.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
. I would
> highly reccommend nose or tail art and a name for your bird!
My RV is named..."BLEW BYOU"...........Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
Hi All,
My RV-3 is named the Maroon Marauder. As if you didn't already know that.
My daughter came up with that name.
What's weird is a friend of mine (remember Rocky with the Porsche Red IO-320
power RV-3) suggested I call it the Maroon Goon.
I knew that name was used for a Turner racer in the thirties.
The weird part is that when Rocky suggested Maroon Goon, I had the Lycoming
O-290 engine in the RV-3. Now I have the LOM four cylinder in-line engine in
my RV-3, and my RV-3 actually resembles the Turner racer with the in-line
Menasco engine.
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | W B Ward <WBWard(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hobbs time or tach time? |
<< one hour of hobbs, or flight time, will not put a full hour on the tach. >>
You can ask your friendly local FAA man, but I believe they will accept
"Hobbs" time, and if so, that's what I'd go with.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | W B Ward <WBWard(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
<< "Li'l Huzzy". Says I spend more time with that "Li'l Huzzy" than I do with
her!! >>
Wives are like that. They just don't understand what makes us tick, do they?
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
The "Junkyard Dog" RV-4, Ser. No. 4239
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeremy William Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
Subject: | Your RV in KITPLANES |
The September issue of KITPLANES will feature the annual overflow of the
regular "Completions" column. If you haven't sent KITPLANES a photo and
brief write-up of your completed RV, make sure to do so by June 10th!
KITPLANES is adding more pages to the September issue and will print all
reasonable submissions, this should include you!
In addition to seeing your RV in print, you will also be entered in a
contest to win a Bendix-King KLX-100 GPScom worth about $1400. If you
played PowerBall and didn't win, you'll have much better odds here!
Details: "Completions" letters may be typed or even hand-written, but
e-mail entries cannot be accepted. KITPLANES also needs a single good
sharp color print or slide (no digital images) that they will keep.
Air-to-air photos are not required nor encouraged. Contact KITPLANES for
more information.
Your submission must be received by KITPLANES by June 10th--send to:
KITPLANES "Completions"
8745 Aero Drive, Ste. 105
San Diego, CA 92123
(Neither I nor Van's Aircraft, Inc. are associated with the above, we are
just providing the information for your information...)
~Jeremy
Portland, Oregon
jwb@europa.com | http:/lhotse.up.edu/~jbenedic | (503) 514-3100 vm/pager
Memorial Day at SF Bay?!? Please weather, cooperate this time! 3 weeks
of 50 degrees, overcast and drizzle is enough!!! Let there be SUN!!!!
Disclaimer: I speak for no one, not even myself.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
My RV-4 was named RaVen, painted all black with the outline of abirds
feathers on the wings. I sure got lots of attention.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | : Names for RV's |
From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
While building, I spent 40+ Hrs/week in the garage (in addition to a
full time job!). Now that my RV-6A is flying, my wife says that I spend
all my free time in it. She picked the N number N925RV because it's
"Nine to five RV" for me!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
(Working on second RV-6A - Chevy Powered!)
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil canning vs.Elevator skin twist |
Hi Listers,
Van's manual defines exactly how much twist is built into the elevator skins
on the RV-4 and RV-6, so the evelator will be straight.
If the elevator skin was built flat, it would set on a flat surface.
However, if you build the elevator on a flat surface, Van's manual states that
you should use a shim under the tip end of the spar.
This means that the root end of the spar, root TE and tip TE are all setting
on a flat surface, and the tip end of the spar is shimmed up to align the two
rib centerlines. If the same amount of shim is required when the elevator is
turned over, then the elevator is straight. However, both elevator skins are
twisted, slightly.
Van's manual calls for a shim on the RV-6 of 1/16", and a shim on the RV-4 of
3/32". Not very much, really. But a skin twist, nevertheless.
But the point I was trying to make is still valid. If you have an assembly
that wants to oil can, you use a technique that will reduce, or even
eliminate, the problem.
By riveting the ends of the elevator skin to the spar, you have contained any
oil canning between the rivets. By adding a "center" rivet, you have created
twice as many areas which have half as much oil canning. And you just
continue to add "center" rivets, doubling the number of areas with half the
oil canning, each time.
A modification of this technique would be used if there was an obvious high
spot between a skin and the frame (such as the edge of the bottom or top
fuselage skin along the longeron). You just install the third rivet at the
high point, instead of the "center" point. Then you use "center" rivets in
each of the unequal length areas remaining.
Again, try this with clecos to see what it does.
BTW, quite trying to defend Van's design. IMHO, Richard Van Grunsven is the
best aircraft designer around.
(Gee, I hope I spelled Van's name correctly. Otherwise, some lister is going
to flame me for spelling errors.) :-)
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
> > << This *has* given me an idea for the name of my RV......the Tinman,
> > since it comes with its own oilcan! >>
> >
> > Well my wife has aptly named my RV-4 "the Mistress" becuase the airplane gets
> > all my love and attention (or so she says)
> >
> > Regards Merle (flyin' in '99 ??) Miller
> RV'ers
>
> My wife named mine "Li'l Huzzy". Says I spend more time with that "Li'l
> Huzzy" than I do with her!!
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6a
>
We have an RV-4 flying here in Oregon that has written
on the side of it "Divorce One."
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Weight Penalty |
SCOTT,
just the emp at this point
SCOTT REVIERE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
Ya know, I was thinking of putting....."Check Six!" on the side of my bird.
Somehow, I think that some of the other fellas' ideas relating to the a/c
competing with the wife unit seems more appropriate....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: cooloing the mags |
We use that blue ribbed plastic conduit from Home Depot in a 7/8" dia. If you
would take a heat gun to the stuff, you can soften the end, and get it to fit
tightly in the appropraitely sized hole when it cools. A dab of RTV will keep
the tube from rotating. You should also use the heat gun the shape the tube,
so it will point at the mag coil area.
I don't know if the black tubing from Van's has the same properties....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
SORRY TO INFORM YOU, PINK PANTHER IS ALREADY FLYING ON A RV ON THE INTERNET
THERE ARE PICTURES OF IT
SCOTT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
Mine will be named " SLIPPERY" because of the paint scheme i came up with.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil canning vs.Elevator skin twist |
<< Hi Listers,
Van's manual defines exactly how much twist is built into the elevator skins
on the RV-4 and RV-6, so the evelator will be straight.
If the elevator skin was built flat, it would set on a flat surface.
Correct! But it's not, so it won't. Imagine two triangles superimposed on each
other. These triangles have the same dimensions as the tip and bottom ribs of
the rudder (or the elevator). The base and side lengths are different, but not
enough to keep the long sides parallel (re: the rudder/elev ribs). In other
words, the two triangles are not scaled drawings of each other. Thus, the
plane that would form the skin would have to have a slight twist in it.
snip
But the point I was trying to make is still valid. If you have an assembly
that wants to oil can, you use a technique that will reduce, or even
eliminate, the problem.
By riveting the ends of the elevator skin to the spar, you have contained any
oil canning between the rivets. By adding a "center" rivet, you have created
twice as many areas which have half as much oil canning. And you just
continue to add "center" rivets, doubling the number of areas with half the
oil canning, each time.
I used this excellent explanation on one of my helpers yesterday, as he was
assembling a -8 rudder. He immediately understood what I had been trying to
communicate for the last few years- Thanks, Jim, for the help! BTW- the
technique works, and it has other applications, too.
snip
BTW, quite trying to defend Van's design. IMHO, Richard Van Grunsven is the
best aircraft designer around.
snip
Amen, altho Kelly Johnson (SR-71) and Kurt Tank (FW-190) did a pretty good
jobs, too. BTW- Mr John Harmon showed that even a great design can be improved
...
Jim Ayers
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
Ed Komoroski's wife came up with a great name for his Red and Yellow -4.
"Just 4 Play". Emphasize the words as you like.
My -6 is called "Malia's Misery".
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Sensinich Prop and Spinner |
I have heard thru the grapevine that Sensinich has come out with a long, sleek
metal spinner to fit the fixed pitch metal props they make. Anybody know
anything about this? I am looking to install a chrome plated spinner on my
RV-8, and so will need to go with metal of course. Any leads on this?
Von Alexander
RV-8#544 Getting ready to install fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | eprth(at)kneehill.com (Tim Houle) |
Alberta/BC/Saskatchewan Listers,
Anyone attending the Camrose fly-in on the 31st of May? I'm in the building
process and am planning on going to Camrose and would like to see some RV's
there if any one is going.
Tim Houle
RV6 empennage
***************************
Tim Houle
email: eprth(at)kneehill.com
***************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 fuse jigging |
William R. Davis Jr wrote:
> 3, look on Dwg. #30 upper R.H. ccorner, sectionB-B'. It says that the
> longeron is to be notched to clear the F-411 vertical bars. The lower
> longeron is left intact however and the bottoms of the bars are notched
My first impulse was this has to be incorrect as you do not want to
notch those bars, but on checking the drawing I find he is right. It
shows the top longerons notched but at the bottom the bars are notched.
I missed that on the drawing (which really needs a notation to make it
more clear) and have already notched all 4 longerons. Called Van's this
morning and they say it makes no difference how you do it at the bottom,
but it is important not to notch the bars at the top.
--
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
http://www.execpc.com/reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Reiff <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 fuse jigging |
> Now on to the next problem. On the advice of a couple of listers and a
> local builder, when I assembled my firewall I went ahead and rivetted on
> the WD-402/403 weldments. Now that the firewall is jigged and I'm trying
> to fit the longerons, the angle on WD-402s is wrong.
Mine were off a considerable amount also. The longerons from the
firewall weldments were about 2" out of proper location at F404. Called
Van's and suggested they adjust the fixture they use for welding these
parts. They said just bend the longerons to make them fit.
--
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
http://www.execpc.com/reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MoeJoe" <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Subject: | Re: Oil canning vs.Elevator skin twist |
I'm going to try this method when I rivet my left elevator. My question is,
when do I rivet the skin to the end ribs? Do I do these first or last?
Moe
>
>
> But the point I was trying to make is still valid. If you have an
assembly
> that wants to oil can, you use a technique that will reduce, or even
> eliminate, the problem.
>
> By riveting the ends of the elevator skin to the spar, you have contained
any
> oil canning between the rivets. By adding a "center" rivet, you have
created
> twice as many areas which have half as much oil canning. And you just
> continue to add "center" rivets, doubling the number of areas with half
the
> oil canning, each time.
>
> A modification of this technique would be used if there was an obvious
high
> spot between a skin and the frame (such as the edge of the bottom or top
> fuselage skin along the longeron). You just install the third rivet at
the
> high point, instead of the "center" point. Then you use "center" rivets
in
> each of the unequal length areas remaining.
>
> Again, try this with clecos to see what it does.
>
> BTW, quite trying to defend Van's design. IMHO, Richard Van Grunsven is
the
> best aircraft designer around.
> (Gee, I hope I spelled Van's name correctly. Otherwise, some lister is
going
> to flame me for spelling errors.) :-)
>
> Jim Ayers
> Least Drag(at)aol.com
> RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
> Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sensinich Prop and Spinner |
>I have heard thru the grapevine that Sensinich has come out with a long,
sleek
>metal spinner to fit the fixed pitch metal props they make. Anybody know
>anything about this? I am looking to install a chrome plated spinner on my
>RV-8, and so will need to go with metal of course. Any leads on this?
>Von Alexander
>RV-8#544 Getting ready to install fuse skins
Yes, they have metal spinners for their metal props. It's even called
an "RV-6 Spinner kit".
Is a RV-8 spinner identical to a RV6 spinner??
All details on their web-site, and I believe they are only available
from the factory. I have one, and it's nicely made, all trimmed,
pre-drilled, nutplates mounted and alodined. Just ready to fit and go.
I'm not sure if I would describe it as long and sleek though, it's only
slightly 'sharper' than Vans glass spinner.
Gil (check their web site) Alexander
RV6A, #20701, tail details
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuse jigging |
<3.0.3.32.19980520081353.00c8951c(at)manta.nosc.mil>
Bill,
Thanks for the response. I have the longerons located correctly (got that
question answered a couple of weeks ago). Let me try to clarify the
problem. The WD-402 is welded together such that the arm that projects out
from the firewall should nest with the longeron. This means the arm should
be angled slightly out and slightly up (or down as installed in the jig).
My weldments have the correct out angle but the up angle is too shallow so
if I clamp the longeron to the weldment the longeron is bowed between the
firewall and the F-404 when viewed from the side. I spoke to Tom at Vans
and he said that this is a common problem. He recommended that I do just
that, force the longeron into position and accept the bow in the longerons.
I dont like that approach and think I have decided to machine a wedge
shaped shim to fill the gap. Another lister said that he took a hacksaw to
the weldment arm and split it along the bend to form seperate horizontal
and vertical tabs to which the longeron is attached. Apparently the old
versions of the weldments came from Vans this way. I'm still considering
this approach.
Thanks again,
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>Mike:
>
>
>I'm having a little trouble visualizing this but is it possible that you
>have the longerons inside the weldment?
>Regards, Bill, N66WD S.W. Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's |
>
>IT JUST BETTER BE FAST OR THE PANTHER WILL BE FISH FOOD
>
>GUESS WHATS COMIN DOWN THE LINE DOUGIE!!!
>
You all need to know that Larry flies a Mustang and P-40, You all know the
P-40 has shark teeth. What you may not know is that the great "Whale Capt"
(note the humble handle he uses....) lives in the land of Red Tailed
airliners and fishermen. (read minnesota). Do you suppose this new -8 he is
building will have Walleye teeth on the nose..........
Just remember Larry, Cats like fish for lunch!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: cooloing the mags |
Craig,
I use blast air on the mags, eng driven fuel pump and elect boost pump.
IT is easy to do and I dont know of any one who suffers on cylinder
head temp by using air off the back baffle. I wish I could get my eng to
run hotter!!! It is free,, easy and who knows when it might save your
butt. I used 5/8 scat tube over 5/8 tube which has a flange welded to
it
for attachment.
Stewart RV4 273sb
close and then ground a taper on
the aft edge of the plexi wherever it was high. I think it's better to
be a little high and wide than it is to be low and narrow, since you can
taper the plexi and/or pull the fairing in while you're
drilling/riveting.
> One thing I did to get it lower was replace the UHMW block with a roller
> and two "L" shaped keepers. Works with little finger. Anyone see problems
> I might later face with this setup?
Sounds like a good solution! I'd like to see a drawing of this. Is it
adjustible? I went through about 8 of those little UHMV blocks before I
was happy with mine. I don't know if others had to do this but I would
recommend buying a bunch of them before you start. A little bit off
here and the thing will stick and be a real pain.
Randall Henderson (finish/engine)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | nfrance(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (NEIL FRANCE) |
Subject: | Re: Andair fuel valve. |
>
>Huh? I thought Andair was based in Britain.
Correct, but they don't answer email, can't find a phone number for them,
and their website just refers to Chief Aircraft inc. or Aircraft Spruce, I
just thought there might be a quicker/ cheaper way.
Neil.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mlfred <Mlfred(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil canning vs.Elevator skin twist |
<< My question is,
when do I rivet the skin to the end ribs? Do I do these first or last? >>
We did ours last. Make sure the rudder or elev is still in the jig when you
start this, and that your v-blocks are aligned v closely. You can slide one
end or the other out a bit to get your squeezer at the rivets.
Out of 3 we've done in the last two days, one has a slight can in it, before
riveting. As I'm still waiting for the new R410PP's for two of 'em (one is
finished), so I'll report how that goes after the parts arrive. It looks like
a bit of squeezing on the trailing edge will cure the canning, along with the
RTV blob at the stiffener ends.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: cooling the mags |
RVer273sb wrote:
>
> Craig,
> I use blast air on the mags, eng driven fuel pump and elect
> boost pump.
> IT is easy to do and I dont know of any one who suffers on
> cylinder
> head temp by using air off the back baffle. I wish I could get
> my eng to
> run hotter!!! It is free,, easy and who knows when it might
> save your
> butt. I used 5/8 scat tube over 5/8 tube which has a flange
> welded to it
> for attachment.
> Concerning the "blast cooling of the mags"..Since the mags are
> securely bolted to the
> accessory case/engine case, I don't see how one could cool the mags
> appreciably do to the large mass
of hot metal to which they are connected. It seems to me that
whatever the engine case temperature is,
that is what the mag temperature would be.
Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage, ready to skin
Cupertino, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
Subject: | flight over populated areas |
I was reading the FAR's last night (I had trouble sleeping) and read the
limitations section on planes with experimental certificates. If I'm
reading it right it says that without some special documentation I won't be
able to fly over densely populated areas in my RV. Is that true? I'm
curious if anyone has heard of that being enforced or addressed during their
certificaiton process. Obviously there are thousands of people flying
overhead in experimentals all the time so I must be missing something.
Thanks,
-Mike
RV8 #80047 perpetually rigging left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: about those harnesses |
dear rv'ers
a few weeks back everyone was talking about light weight titanum harnesses, i
ordered a five point set for my dune buggy and today they arived. not titanum
and 3" wide belts weighed 3 pounds apiece. does anyone know the weight of the
titanum harness and the belt width?
scott
wingin it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Shaftela <Shaftela(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Tank Mis-match |
just a sugestion- see if the working head of the rivets on the tank could be
interfering.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
Michael and listers,
If anyone is having trouble getting through to Jon Johanson, please
respond to me off the list, and I will pass it on.Michael I have passed
on your request. Jon has received a lot of e-mails,on his seats, but he
moves around a lot, and sometimes his forwarding mail box has a
"electronic brain fart" or some other orgasmatronic event, and nothing
gets through.I am working hard to try and get a web page (some guys on
the list have set a very high standard to follow) up and running, so you
can see what it looks like. Those that said G'Day to Jon at Oshkosh, its
the same seat.
Ken Glover Newcastle OZ
through to
Jon Johanson, please respond to me off the list, and I will pass it
on.Michael I
have passed on your request. Jon has received a lot of e-mails,on his
seats, but
he moves around a lot, and sometimes his forwarding mail box has a
"electronic brain fart" or some other orgasmatronic event, and
nothing
gets through.I am working hard to try and get a web page (some guys on
the list
have set a very high standard to follow) up and running, so you can see
what it
looks like. Those that said G'Day to Jon at Oshkosh, its the same
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: flight over populated areas |
Michael Angiulo wrote:
> I was reading the FAR's last night (I had trouble sleeping) and read the
> limitations section on planes with experimental certificates. If I'm
> reading it right it says that without some special documentation I won't be
> able to fly over densely populated areas in my RV. Is that true? I'm
> RV8 #80047 perpetually rigging left wing
>
Short answer: don't worry about it too much.
Long answer: if you are anywhere near a densely populated area, odds are you will
have to talk to ATC. If it's convenient for them, they will route you over
anything they please. Takeoffs & landings are excepted from the rule, so you can
land anywhere the factory guys can. At least that's been my experience.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy fit at rear |
hi everyone
this is how I "drilled"the holes in the two UHMV blocks for the sliding
canopy:
I heatet the fingers of the frame with a gas torch untill the glow
darkred.then slide them
into the block bit by bit which then creates a hole which fits exactly.you
have to do
this many times to reheat the finger and also to cool the block down with
compressed air so it doesn't melt away.it's really a two person job and it
worked for me first go.make sure not to inhale the smoke !!!!!wear a mask
in a good ventilated area.the trick is realy
to do it in small steps......and keep the block cool.
I also made the rear scirt 666 out of two pices which worked well
thought I let you know this alternative method.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary E. Rush" <gerush(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Sensenich metal prop for O-360 question & RV8 WINGS FOR SALE |
I was checking out the web page for the new Sensenich metal prop for the
180hp 0-360 and the performance numbers looked outstanding. I may be all
wet but how much better will a variable pitch prop be and is it worth going
to a V.P. prop with all the added weight and expense when this prop seems to
perform so well.
I solicit your comments and observations from those RVers that have
experience in this area.
By the way I have a set of RV8 wings and center section for sale, about 75%
complete, I have decided to go with the Quick Build kit since I have more
money than time. Price is $3000 for listers. I just submitted an ad in
trade a plane price there is $3250.
Ph: (760) 930-9208
Gary Rush
RV8 80352
Tail complete, awaiting QB kit
Carlsbad, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Weight Penalty |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>SCOTT,
>just the emp at this point
>SCOTT REVIERE
>
>
>
>
With that being the case then I would do the following if it were me.
Decide whether you plan to us a fixed pitch prop (especially on a tail
dragger RV). If you are then I would strip it and start over.
If I was planning to for sure use a constant speed prop and I decided
that I was more willing to carry around the extra weight than I was to
strip it, then I would wet sand the whole thing and shoot one more light
gloss coat on it and forget it.
My suggestion for the rest of the airplane is that you don't fill rivets.
It is still a metal airplane know matter what you do to it, and even with
rivets filled you will still have skin lap joints that show, etc.
If you still like the idea of some what hiding the rivets one thing that
you can do is fill with primer. When priming for finish paint first make
a couple of narrow wet passes on the rivet lines. Then prime the whole
surface. After its dry, (carefully) wet sand over the rivet lines using
400 wet/dry and a sanding block without sanding all the way through the
primer. When painted the rivets will be nearly invisible (assuming you
had reasonably good quality riveting to start with, as this wont hide
dent, smiles, etc.).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Has anyone got any information on bidding and/or dealing with insurance
companies
on damaged or salvage aircraft. I'd like to bid on a couple of wrecks to
salvage
out panels and hardware.
Ed Cole
Cupertino, CA
RV6A Fuselage..ready for skinning!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy fit at rear |
Karl Ahamer wrote:
>
> hi everyone
> this is how I "drilled"the holes in the two UHMV blocks for the
> sliding
> canopy:
> I heatet the fingers of the frame with a gas torch untill the glow
> darkred.then slide them
> into the block bit by bit which then creates a hole which fits
> exactly.you
> have to do
> this many times to reheat the finger and also to cool the block down
> with
> compressed air so it doesn't melt away.it's really a two person job
> and it
> worked for me first go.make sure not to inhale the smoke !!!!!wear a
> mask
> in a good ventilated area.the trick is realy
> to do it in small steps......and keep the block cool.
> I also made the rear scirt 666 out of two pices which worked well
> thought I let you know this alternative method.....
>
Another method that I suggested to a fellow builder was to temporarily
replace the UHMW
blocks with a clay block the same dimension and slide the pins into the
clay to note the angle
of entry.
Ed Cole
Cupertino, CA
RV6A Fuselage...ready to skin!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil canning vs.Elevator skin twist |
I'm going to try this method when I rivet my left elevator. My question is,
when do I rivet the skin to the end ribs? Do I do these first or last?
Moe >>
Hi Listers,
The basic concept is to start with each end, and then add the "center" rivets.
The tip rib is part of the elevator spar rivet pattern, so this is one of the
end rivets. The other end rivet is on the root end of the elevator spar.
The root rib is not part of the elevator spar rivet pattern. However, when
you rivet the skin to the root rib, you should again start at each end of the
rib and then add the "center" rivets.
This also applies to the tip rib, except you have already installed one of the
end rivets for the tip rib at the elevator spar.
Hope this helps get the basic concept across. It's not really to critical
about the deals.
Just remember, if the skin stands off of the spar/rib/frame, install cleco's
in the same pattern as you are going to rivet the skin down, to verify that
the can will go away.
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuse jigging |
<3.0.3.32.19980521084620.00b92424(at)manta.nosc.mil>
From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Hi Mike,
Sorry for being so dense, I understand your situation now, It is true
that the older 4's had a "split finger" arangement on these weldments. I
believe that the best solution would be to hack saw them apart and then
bend to suit unless you have access to a milling machine and can make a
tapered shim. I definitly would not force a bow into the longeron.
Got to "unsubscribe" for a week or so as the wife and I are taking 66WD
up to NJ for some family and friends visiting.
Best regards, Bill, S.W. FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Names for RV's / "My Sanity" |
"My Sanity" is in the paint shop and I hope to have the name painted
on before Oshkosh. I started building "My Sanity" after getting
separated from my first wife. I met my second wife while I was
finishing the wings. Did some fuselage work while married. Jumped
into the project with both feet after separating from the second wife.
The first wife cost me one house, 3 rental properties, and a car.
The airplane helped me keep my sanity through all this. The second
divorce was not as hard. She wanted half the plane and all of
everythig else. I had receipts to show that I only spent $1,500 US
during the time we were married on the plane. She got the house with
payments, I got my S-10 with payments and the RV-6 parts that were
paid for. Great trade. :-) Are you starting to see how this airplane
has allowed me to keep my sanity and why it is named "My Sanity"?
Over 100 hours of flying in 8 months and I can say the RV-6 is more
fun than any (all) of my ex-wives.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy fit at rear |
Karl wrote:
"this is how I "drilled"the holes in the two UHMV blocks for the sliding
canopy:
I heatet the fingers of the frame with a gas torch untill the glow
darkred.then slide them
into the block bit by bit "
Has anyone tried casting a block using fiberglass and resin, or bondo or JBWeld
or whatever? Drilling them is pretty weird.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Subject: | Re: cooloing the mags |
>Does somebody out there have a really good way to cool the mags?
>While we are at it who's cooling the gascolator and fuel pump?
>Craig Hiers RV-4 N143CH Tallahassee,FL.
Craig,
I used the ribbed, black conduit that Van's supplies. I drilled a couple
of holes on the rear baffle and tie wrapped the ends of the tubing so they
would stay pointed at the mags. I used the same conduit for the alternator
blast tube and to direct air to a cooling shroud that I built around my
gascolator. For the engine driven fuel pump, I used a shroud off of a
Cherokee 140 (150 hp Lycoming) fuel pump. This shroud utilizes 2" scat
tube. No vapor lock problems in 415 hours of burning 100 LL.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)MCI2000.com> |
Subject: | Electronic Compasses |
Does anyone have experience with the digital marine compasses that sell for
about $100? They use a flux gate apparently.
Alex Peterson Maple Grove MN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)startext.net> |
Subject: | RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
Listers, Where is the best location for an OAT probe for RV-6A? The
other end connects to my EIS but no firm recommendation is made as the
location of the probe.
Also, I cannot find the F453A (does it have another part number?) clevis
for my manual elevator trim connect to the trim tab. I suspect it was
in a bag attached to the trim cable and I've misplaced the bag, correct?
Am I the only one that cannot find everything immediately?! Thanks for
any help...
Will Cretsinger, Arlington TX
RV-6A Instrument panel and fiberglass
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry.K.Daudt" <B747400(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Keep Dialog Polite and Respectful... |
Just kidding Dougie!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
>I was checking out the web page for the new Sensenich metal prop for the
>180hp 0-360 and the performance numbers looked outstanding. I may be all
>wet but how much better will a variable pitch prop be and is it worth going
>to a V.P. prop with all the added weight and expense when this prop seems to
>perform so well.
>
>I solicit your comments and observations from those RVers that have
>experience in this area.
>Gary Rush
>RV8 80352
A number of years ago Van did a back to back comparison of several wood
props from various well known prop makers, and also a C/S prop all in one
day on the proto-type RV-6. Scott McD. or other Van connected individuals
may remember which issue of Kit Planes or Sport Aviation it was in.
The tests were *VERY* enlightening. I recommend the back issue to anyone
who is trying to decide what to do about prop on their RV. Those who have
already decided would likely not be swayed, so you can just ignore this.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: flight over populated areas |
>> I was reading the FAR's last night (I had trouble sleeping) and read the
>> limitations section on planes with experimental certificates. If I'm
>> reading it right it says that without some special documentation I won't be
>> able to fly over densely populated areas in my RV. Is that true? I'm
>> RV8 #80047 perpetually rigging left wing
>
> Short answer: don't worry about it too much.
>
>Long answer: if you are anywhere near a densely populated area, odds are
you >will have to talk to ATC. If it's convenient for them, they will route
you over >anything they please. Takeoffs & landings are excepted from the
rule, so you can
>land anywhere the factory guys can. At least that's been my experience.
>Charlie
The EAA made a good point on this some years ago. In X-C flying *ANY* area
flown over is for the purpose of T/O or Landing. You are either taking off
from the departure airport, or you are enroute to landing at the
destination. The FAA seems to have followed this logic in "enforcing" the
"no flight over densely populated areas" rule. If you are not hot dogging
and acting irresponsible (buzzing ground targets) you should get no notice
from the FAA.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | fit of the F 604 in 6A |
I am trying to fit the F604. I got the lower & angled stiffeners almost
done.
Will have to un clamp & file some more. I got to looking at the rivet
patterns & the wd 603 weldments shows 5 rivets ( no call out on the Dwg)
in the side of the lower longeron which comes out about 3/4 spacing. The
skin rivet Dwg calls out 1.25 inch spacing. I want the spacing to look
equal. Should the rivets in all the weldments be of closer spacing?
I got a bunch of clamps holding everything together and can't decide
where to start drilling. Should I lay out all the spacing & drill or just
drill key holes to hold everything for now. Georges vedio made it all
look so easy, I feel like a big Dummy tonight. If I go ahead a layout my
pattern & drill it I could back drill through the skin later.
I started with a 2D distance from the edge, then devided the distance
between the ends by four to get the spacing . I ended up with the ends
being to close to the edge. Based on the size of rivet, What should be
the edge distance??
How do I line up the lower longeron & f 6101 super gusset at the bottom
of the F-604? Should I use a straigt egde from the 601 or the 605?
Don Jordan ~ N76DJ ~ 6A-fuselage
donspawn(at)juno.com ~ Arlington, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
I remember seeing the name "Miss Appropriated Funds" on some plane
somewhere (a racer I think). Also "Miss Alignment", "Miss Guided", "Miss
Fire", "Miss Fit". It's endless...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: NAPA 7220 Primer |
D
> Dare I ask if anyone else has used Veriprime and SW/NAPA and how they
> compared?
>
> Dave Lundquist
Dave,
Several months ago I called Dupont "Hi Performance and Imron" specialist
at 800 572 1568. I want to prime the wings and tail and store in the
barn. He told me if I use Veriprime I must put on a sealer or top coat
as the primer alone will retain moisture. He suggested I use 824S epoxy
primer leave it over the winter, then scuff prior to painting. I have
been using S/W 7220 on the remaining parts.
The only way I can compare the two is removing the primers with lacquer
thinner. The 7220 is much more difficult to remove.
Marty RV-6AQ Installing controls
Erwinna, Pa.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sensenich metal prop for O-360 question |
I was checking out the web page for the new Sensenich metal prop for the
180hp 0-360 and the performance numbers looked outstanding. I may be all
wet but how much better will a variable pitch prop be and is it worth going
to a V.P. prop with all the added weight and expense when this prop seems to
perform so well. >>
I was going to leave this one alone, since no one wants to hear about a VP
prop which weights less than a metal fixed pitch.
Just because the VP prop allows the engine to provide the full RPM for take-
off and climb, it couldn't possible allow a shorter ground roll and a higher
climb rate.
And just because you can pick the RPM to run the engine for cruise, regardless
of altitude and throttle setting (within reason), this couldn't affect fuel
consumption cruise performance.
But since I'm referring to the Ivoprop Magnum electric In-Flight djustable
Prop, someone is bond to start talking about life insurance.
Please make all such Email messages directly to me. As a Personal Financial
Analyst for Primerica financial Services, I would be very happy to discuss
your life insurance needs. :-)
Gotcha :-) :-)
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Limaluk <Limaluk(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
I placed my OAT probe on my left front vertical baffle, facing the engine and
about one inch behind where the cowl wraps around to meet the baffle. It gets
lots of fresh prop-air. The only time it reads incorrectly is when you shut
the engine down, it gets the engine heat. This has been a good place on my
RV-6.
E. Luke/RV-6/700 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
<< Where is the best location for an OAT probe for RV-6A? The
other end connects to my EIS but no firm recommendation is made as the
location of the probe. >>
I installed mine in the NACA vent.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Weight Penalty |
Scott,
i'm building a 6-a and plan on 180 w/ cs prop, and i think i will take your
advice
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Andair fuel valve. |
>
> Also any advice on obtaining or
> making the stall warning device parts for U.K. approval would be
> welcome.
I bought a very nice stall warning system from:
Don Richardson
"Sharbrook", Turnhill Rd,
High Ham, Langport
Somerset TA10 9DF
United Kingdom
Price was $51 including shipping to US.
Tim
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | fit of the F 604 in 6A |
Don,
I can answer two parts of this. First, I backdrilled everything. There
is too much small stuff under that fuselage skin and I didn't want to
miss any of it when I drilled. Second, the F-6101 requires a lot of
hand filing and hand fitting to go in the space between the angle
reinforcing and the F-604. As I recall on mine, it did not exactly line
up with anything, but did finally fit everywhere. The rivet spacing is
on the plans, but takes a long time to worry out. The skin rivet
drawing controls for the most part, but it gives way to specific rivet
sizes and spacing call-outs on more detailed drawings. Hope this helps.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A Fuselage still upside down in the jig with the wings on
-----Original Message-----
fit of the F 604 in 6A
I am trying to fit the F604. I got the lower & angled
stiffeners almost
done. >>>>>>>>>
Don Jordan ~ N76DJ ~ 6A-fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MLaboyteau <MLaboyteau(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
<< << Where is the best location for an OAT probe for RV-6A? The
other end connects to my EIS but no firm recommendation is made as the
location of the probe. >>
I installed mine in the NACA vent.
-GV
>>
So did I. Yesterday, I climbed to 8000', and my OAT was indicating 31C, the
same as it was on the ground. Huh? That can't be right. Sure enough, the air
coming out of both vents still felt kinda warm, while the side of the aircraft
was nice and cool. After I landed, I noticed that there's a small gap in the
top cowling, just above where it sets on top of the lower cowling, and it's
right in line with my naca vents. Just enought to let a little air escape from
the accessory area and get sucked into the vents. I'm going to try and use
some of my leftover baffle seal material and seal these up. One more little
detail to take care of.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV Flying!
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
I use the Vision Microsystems gauges. The OAT probe is only about 3/8" so
Installed it in the NACA inlet for the air vent (right side). No interruption
of airflow to the vent (it's like a blast tube!).
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
Subject: | Re: Salvage Bidding |
>
>Has anyone got any information on bidding and/or dealing with insurance
>companies
>on damaged or salvage aircraft. I'd like to bid on a couple of wrecks to
>salvage
>out panels and hardware.
>Ed Cole
>Cupertino, CA
>RV6A Fuselage..ready for skinning!
Ed,
There are a couple of places You can look.
http://www.acpi.org/salvage.html - AIG
http://www.barnstormers.com/rebuildr.html - Loss Management/Avemco
The bidding is usually a sealed bid type process. The bidding in my
experience is very aggressive. All the Salvage companies seem to be working
it very hard and also seem to be efficient at remarketing the parts. Get as
good a description as possible of all parts and price them out. The
companies do not disclose the amount of the high bid. So usually you don't
know whether you were even close. I don't understand the rationale behind
not disclosing the price. In my experience(automobiles) the more
information available the higher the bids.
Shelby in Nashville.
Fuselage RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BELTED AIR <BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
You may find an error in the reading as air from the cowl inlet will flow back
over that area, we ended up installing it just ahead of the com antenna aft of
the canopy. we could maintain 33 degrees c to 10,000 feet in the winter
belted air
las vegas, nv
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
>Listers, Where is the best location for an OAT probe for RV-6A?
Placed mine in the NACA vent, BUT, have not had good luck with accurate
readings (reads about 10-15 deg. high). I am getting engine heat from the
top cowl during flight since it has a tendency to bow out due to pressure
(another good reason for an enclosed pressure chamber). The NACA is in
direct trail of where the cowl bows (right above where top and bottom cowl
split).
I have recommended to a few builders that they put the probe on the bottom
of the wing intersection fairing. The thermocouple probe wires should be
long enough to reach (does everyone know you should never cut and shorted
thermocouple wires?). This should be out of the way of any heat, exhaust
should not be a factor.
Dave
RV-6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
Somewhere I recall that someone is manufacturing and selling tow bars
for RVs - can any lister remind me who was selling them? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Andair fuel valve. |
>
>I bought a very nice stall warning system from:
>
>Don Richardson
>"Sharbrook", Turnhill Rd,
>High Ham, Langport
>Somerset TA10 9DF
>United Kingdom
>
>Price was $51 including shipping to US.
>
>Tim
Tim,
Do you have any specifics on this system? Is it a switch like the
certified systems?
What kind of indicator does it use etc.. I can't find anything on it in
the archive.
Thanks in advance.
John ( banging away in Southern New Hampshire)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
David Hudgins wrote:
> I have recommended to a few builders that they put the probe on the bottom
> of the wing intersection fairing. The thermocouple probe wires should be
Thats where I put mine, to keep it out of the direct sun. Does it work --- no.
Reads accurately on the ground in my hangar. Reads high when parked on hot asphalt
(of course). In flight it reads high due to air leakage from around cowl/gear leg
intersection fairings.
Terry
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
At 11:54 AM 5/22/98, David Hudgins wrote:
SNIP
>of the wing intersection fairing. The thermocouple probe wires should be
>long enough to reach (does everyone know you should never cut and shorted
>thermocouple wires?).
SNIP
The "magic" in thermocouple wires is not in their length, but in the
materials they are made of. In general, it should be OK to shorten them,
but splicing ordinary wire on to extend them will introduce some
inaccuracies. A thermocouple is a junction of two dissimilar metals,
(called the hot junction) which when heated generates a small (millivolt)
voltage. At the other end of the thermocouple wire, where it connects to
the instrument, there is also a junction of dissimilar metals. This is
called the cold junction. Most thermocouple-based instruments have some
other temperature-measuring device such as a thermistor to measure the
temperature of the cold junction (basically, the terminals at the back of
the instrument) and apply a formula using that temperature and the measured
voltage in order to calculate the temperature of the hot junction. If you
extend the thermocouple by splicing some other kind of wire, then you form
a "cold junction" somewhere other than at the back of the instrument. If
this location is not at the same temperature as the one being measured at
the back of the instrument, then you have introduced an error into your
measurement.
Anyway, most OAT instruments use either thermistors or sophisticated
integrated-circuit measuring elements, which do not share this peculiarity
of thermocouples, so splices are generally OK, though wire length could
become a factor with some designs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vince S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
Subject: | RV8/LeftElevator/TrimTab |
Hello,
I am finishing up the left elevator (wings on order) and have hit a snag.
The plans call for AD3-4 flush rivets in both the LE spar (E606) and the
trim tab itself (e607).
Problem:
Oh the HINGED sections of both the E607 and E607 spars, I can not get any
bucking bar or squeezer head I have to fit in the small space without
hitting the hinge. My attempt to "finesse" a rivet resulted in 2 hours of
reforming a hinge section. The hinge is ooooooh so easy to hit and mess up!
My proposed solution:
Use MK-319-BS "pop" rivets for the entire top of the trim tab itself and
for the remainder of the E606 rivets.
Question:
Is there a better way? My position on pop rivets is that their beauty goes
up in direct proportion to the cost of the tool required to avoid using them.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
Moscow, ID
RV8/Left Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerry parr <parravion(at)mcmail.com> |
Subject: | RV-4/6 - IO-360 experience |
Mayday! Mayday!
I am co-building an RV-6 and for our sins, we plan on putting an IO-360
200hp angle-valve Lycoming in the front.
This is not being done out of any want for extra performance but is
purely down to what was available at the time, over here in England. And
yes, we do know what we are letting ourselves in for!
Our regulating authority in the UK, the Popular Flying Association, is
not quite so broad minded as the EAA when it comes to deviating from the
plans.
Whilst they will OK the engine installation they are worried about our
want to put a Hartzell C/S prop on the front because of the extra
weight. (They have already approved a '6 with a wooden prop and an
IO-360).
We desperately need anyone who has or knows of an RV-4 or RV-6 with a
200hp IO-360 on the front (especially if it has a Hartzell C/S) to let
us know as much of the following as possible (any info will assist us):
1)RV type
2)Registration number
3)Engine type
4)Propeller type
5)Hours flown
6)Date of first flight
7)Contact name, address, tel no, e-mail address etc.
If we can prove there are at least 2000 hours total time of RVs flying
about with the big motor and prop then they will ok ours.
I look forward to reading all those replies soon! Then we can get on
with modifying those cowlings (made of something they call 'fibreglass'
apparently....)
Many thanks, in anticipation
Jerry Parr
RV-6 G-RVVI
Fuse complete, starting on the systems....
Peterborough, England
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: flight over populated areas |
The following announcement was copied from www.eaa.org web site today:
EAA Efforts Lead to FAA Clarification on Homebuilt Overflight Policy
May 22, 1998
EAA is pleased to report that due to EAAs efforts, FAA has clarified the
ongoing issue of homebuilt flights over populated areas. That is an issue
that is very important to homebuilt owners and pilots. A controversy arose
in California this spring after local FAA officials there began calling
homebuilt owners, saying they may be in violation of regulations by flying
over congested areas.
EAA worked with FAA on an almost daily basis to develop a clarification of
the long-standing policy that allowed homebuilts to fly over urban areas.
The FAA bulletin issued last week states that once flight testing is
completed, Experimental amateur-built aircraft may operate over densely
populated areas, both en route and during takeoffs and landings, and
operate within congested airways.
We appreciate FAAs responsiveness and thank EAA members and staff who
worked to resolve this issue.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
<< Somewhere I recall that someone is manufacturing and selling tow bars
for RVs - can any lister remind me who was selling them? >>
Ken Barto makes the RV-6A nose gear towbar. He's listed in the Yeller Pages.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J VanGrunsven" <rvforpla(at)pacifier.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezers |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8/LeftElevator/TrimTab |
A
>
>Question:
>Is there a better way? My position on pop rivets is that their beauty goes
>up in direct proportion to the cost of the tool required to avoid using them.
>
Yes there is a better way. You need to use a rivet squeezer with a small set
to get behind the hinge eyes
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Somewhere I recall that someone is manufacturing and selling tow bars
>for RVs - can any lister remind me who was selling them? Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>Don't remember his name but I believe he is list in the optional parts
catalog.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>A number of years ago Van did a back to back comparison of several
>wood
>props from various well known prop makers, and also a C/S prop all in
>one
>day on the proto-type RV-6. Scott McD. or other Van connected
>individuals
>may remember which issue of Kit Planes or Sport Aviation it was in.
>
>The tests were *VERY* enlightening. I recommend the back issue to
>anyone
>who is trying to decide what to do about prop on their RV. Those who
>have
>already decided would likely not be swayed, so you can just ignore
>this.
>
Sorry I don't remember what issue it was, but I believe it is in the 16
years of the RVator because it was reprinted (in part at least) in the
newsletter.
Just my 2 cents on the prop. comparison. If the performance #'s that the
orig. poster was referring to were cruise speeds I would agree that their
may be no point in the extra expense if that is your main focus/need for
your RV. Any good quality fixed pitch prop that is optimized for best
cruise performance at a given altitude will probably be very close to
what a constant speed or variable pitch prop would do at that same
altitude on that airplane... but that is what you are stuck with.
With the constant speed you get full rated power output (assuming the
pressure altitude you are at makes it available) for takeoff and the
option to adjust for different operating conditions in cruise.
I am not endorsing a constant speed prop as the only way to go, just
providing info on a comparison. My personal feeling though
would make me lean much harder towards speeding some of my airplane
building money on a constant speed and maybe even do with out some of the
other options and gadgets that most of us can do without if we need to.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Salvage Bidding |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>>Has anyone got any information on bidding and/or dealing with
>insurance
>>companies
>>on damaged or salvage aircraft.
>The bidding is usually a sealed bid type process. The bidding in my
>experience is very aggressive. All the Salvage companies seem to be
>working
>it very hard and also seem to be efficient at remarketing the parts.
>Get as
>good a description as possible of all parts and price them out. The
>companies do not disclose the amount of the high bid. So usually you
>don't
>know whether you were even close. I don't understand the rationale
>behind
>not disclosing the price. In my experience(automobiles) the more
>information available the higher the bids.
>
>Shelby in Nashville.
>Fuselage RV6A
>
>
>
I agree entirely with Shelby. probably 90% of the bids go to the major
salvage co. as they can afford to invest more (they will be make money on
the salvage for years afterwards).
I did this for 2 years and finally called one of the salvagers to buy the
parts that I wanted. I missed being high bid by 36$ once against
Wentworth Salvage. (The winning bidders list that was sent to me was a
photo copy where the prices had been blocked out but it bled through).
It is possible to do though. A friend won the bid on a storm damaged
Cherokee 140 and got it for about $7000 (and he only had to go acrossed
town to pick it up).
The biggest problem is that you are bidding blind and if you bid
aggressively enough to get one you could end up with something that (to
you) is not worth what you had to pay for it. I even traveled to inspect
a couple that I bid on, and I was sure glad that I did. The info
provided is usually rather vague, though I found that if you call the
usually provided phone # of the party that is holding/storing the salvage
they are usually helpful with answering questions and giving more
information.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Andair fuel valve. |
> How about some details on this unit? Description, installation,
> how does it work etc.
The stall warning system I bought was originally mentioned in the
April 96 issue of the RVAtor on page 16. The unit is very much like
the Piper Traumahawk/Warrior/Archer/Arrow stall warning system... A
little metal tab protrudes from the leading edge of the wing
(instructions tell you exactly where to mount it). When the A/C is a
few knots above the stall sufficient air flows from below the tab up
over the top of the wing to lift the tab up. When the tab is lifted
it closes a contact on the stall warning switch. The switch is
connected to a stall warning horn or light (provided by the
builder--I used a two tone Radio Shack horn) which activates, warning
that a stall is approaching.
The stall warning kit consists of the tab/switch/housing assembly, a
little cover plate to go over the hole you cut in the wing (just big
enough to let the tab stick out), a couple of screws, and
instructions. Very simple, very light, and put together well. I
think it's worth the money.
I recall reading somewhere that U.S. homebuilts have a higher
stall/spin accident rate than U.S. spam cans. If that's true I
suspect that two contributing factors are the higher wing loading of
many experimentals (not a player in the RV series) and the dearth of
installed stall warning systems.
I think it's well worth $51 to have a little horn that yells "hey
dummy, reduce that AOA."
Tim "Finishing that $%#^& baffling this weekend" Lewis
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Listers, Where is the best location for an OAT probe for RV-6A? The
>other end connects to my EIS but no firm recommendation is made as the
>
>location of the probe.
>
I know there has already been a lot of posts on this but my experiences
differ from them all so thought I would also.
The problem I have found with most of the temp sensors that I have
experience with - Vision Micro Systems, Electronics International,
Rocky Mountain, etc. is that they all us sensors that have bodies that
can conduct heat to what is supposed to be the sensing tip of the sensor.
Some of them tell you this (Rock Mountain I believe does, many of the
others don't). AS a result if there much of a temp. difference between
the 2 sides of the structure that you are mounting the sensor in, it will
produce an error. As an example; I have found that mounting it in the
NACA vent inlet on the side of the fuse is about as bad a place as any
that you can use. The probe tip is in outside air but the probe body is
always in cabin air which we seem to try and keep warmed to at least 70
deg. if we are able, even if it is 20 deg F. outside (BTW this is not
very hard to do if you are at altitude with a clear sky and the sun
shinning in that open topped canopy, a bit more difficult if you are
under cloud cover).
I have seen sensors in the NACA have an error of 15 deg or more.
Bottom line is I have found the bottom of the wing root fairing to be the
best. All of the airplanes at Van's now have the sensors at this
location and it seems to work fine with no errors in temp.
If you have a sensor already mounted in a location that you are getting
an incorrect reading in temp you can try to insulate the back side of the
sensor from the higher temp. (making the assumption that know one has yet
completed an RV with air conditioning) air source in some way. Some
builders have had success using the aerosol can urethane foam. You can
use a paper or foam cup as a mold and mold the foam around the sensor.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8/LeftElevator/TrimTab |
> Problem:
> Oh the HINGED sections of both the E607 and E607 spars, I can not get any
> bucking bar or squeezer head I have to fit in the small space without
> hitting the hinge. My attempt to "finesse" a rivet resulted in 2 hours
of
> reforming a hinge section. The hinge is ooooooh so easy to hit and mess
up!
>
> My proposed solution:
> Use MK-319-BS "pop" rivets for the entire top of the trim tab itself and
> for the remainder of the E606 rivets.
>
> Question:
> Is there a better way? My position on pop rivets is that their beauty
goes
> up in direct proportion to the cost of the tool required to avoid using
them.
This problem seems to keep coming up. Use your squeezer and a small bar of
steel to set the AN rivets. The bar goes between the shop heads and the
squeezer set. The bar is anything thick enough, yet narrow enough, to keep
the set out of the way of the hinge eyes. This set "extender" concept
works in many places.
Alex Peterson Maple Grove MN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
>AS a result if there much of a temp. difference between
>the 2 sides of the structure that you are mounting the sensor in, it will
>produce an error. As an example; I have found that mounting it in the
>NACA vent inlet on the side of the fuse is about as bad a place as any
>that you can use. The probe tip is in outside air but the probe body is
>always in cabin air which we seem to try and keep warmed to at least 70
>deg. I have seen sensors in the NACA have an error of 15 deg or more.
I have the Rocky Mountain Instruments uMonitor. What I did was to place
the entire temp probe inside the scat tubing that is attached to the NACA
duct. The temps I've seen so far seem pretty accurate.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RBusick505 <RBusick505(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4/6 - IO-360 experience |
<<
We desperately need anyone who has or knows of an RV-4 or RV-6 with a
200hp IO-360 on the front (especially if it has a Hartzell C/S) to let
us know as much of the following as possible (any info will assist us):
>>
Jerry
Check out Barnard Aircraft (916) 676-5601 or info(at)barnardaircraft.com or
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
Steve has put an IO 360 in an RV 6 with a constant speed, he also makes a cowl
for the RV6 as Vans cowl will not fit without modifications. Read all about
it on his web site.
Good Luck
Bob Busick
RV-6 Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: DC Thermal Cabin Heaters |
Just as a commnet 1 horsepower is equal to 746 watts.
Frank van der Hulst wrote:
>
> rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
> > The 12 volt 35 amp 497 Watt version costs $189 and puts
> > out 1,696 BTU's at 85 cubic feet per minute.
>
> 500W isn't a lot of heat, but then it doesn't have to heat a lot of
> space. Probably plenty for an RV, I guess, unless it's leaky. The $189
> won't include wiring, fuse, and switch, I guess.
>
> > All the hardware for an exhaust pipe setup
> > looks like it will run between $200 - $220.
>
> The installation price isn't the only consideration.
>
> Check whether it's on/off, or is the heat output controllable?
>
> You'll need a larger (heavier, more expensive) alternator to pump out
> 35 Amps continuously PLUS run radios, landing lights, etc.
>
> Remember that the 500W is initially provided by your engine (how many
> HP is 500W?). When the heater's on, your engine will need to produce
> more power and will therefore use more fuel. You'll also have reduced
> rate of climb and increased takeoff roll.
>
> OTOH, exhaust heat is essentially free (after you've paid for the
> installation hardware).
>
> Frank.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
Subject: | Engine ignition option ordering info? |
Bernie and I are about to order the engine from Van's for our RV-6A.
We're going to get an O-320, and would like to use a Lightspeed
ignition for one set of plugs, and a regular magneto for the other.
Has anyone else ordered this combination from Van's? Can it be
ordered this way? Any comments on the relative quality of the
Slick magneto that comes as standard equipment?
Rob Rimbold, rimbold(at)ntr.net
RV-6A, Fuselage, Treasure Coast Airpark, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gregory Young <gyoung(at)net1.net> |
Subject: | RV-4/6 - IO-360 experience |
On Friday, May 22, 1998 17:22 PM, jerry parr
[SMTP:parravion(at)mcmail.com] wrote:
> Mayday! Mayday!
>
> I am co-building an RV-6 and for our sins, we plan on
> putting an IO-360
> 200hp angle-valve Lycoming in the front.
>
> We desperately need anyone who has or knows of an RV-4 or
> RV-6 with a
> 200hp IO-360 on the front (especially if it has a
Hartzell
> C/S) to let
> us know as much of the following as possible (any info
> will assist us):
>
Jerry,
Try contacting Steve Barnard at Barnard Aircraft
(http://www.barnardaircraft.com/). He makes the "Holy cowl"
for the 6/6a with IO-360. He's a real advocate of the
IO-360-C/S combo particularly for weight & balance. I'm
planning to use it on my -6 with an IO-360 w/ C/S.
While it's not an official endorsement, also check these
entries from Van's Web site, Accessories Catalog, Props
page:
HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4 for use with 0-360 engine (and IO-360
with short cowl). Compact hub, 72" diameter, 1/2" flange
bolts. Requires constant-speed cowl. Weight 50 lbs.
PART NUMBER PRICEPROP
C2YK -1BF/F7666A4 $4435.00
M2YR for use with IO-360 engine and Barnard Cowl (from BAC
Aircraft).
PART NUMBER PRICEPROP
MY2R $5200.00
At least the combo is prevalent enough to warrant inclusion
in the catalog.
If the PFA's objection is strictly weight & balance you
should be able to show by calculation that extra weight
forward is beneficial in reducing the possibility of
exceeding the aft CG limits (dangerous!). If the objection
is elevator authority at forward CG, look at the elevator
travel limits in the construction manual. There is a 5
degree difference between the "design" and "minimum
acceptable" travel. Assuring that you hit the "design"
point should provide a cushion for fwd CG. Of course if
you load to stay within Van's CG envelope then it is not an
issue in either case.
Good luck!
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) fuselage out of jig, fitting controls,
pondering panel
________________________________________________________________________________
Can anyone tell me how to remove the crank plug? It looks like I need
some special tool. Can't wait until that big Hartzell is swingin!
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Network Consultant, MCSE
ImageMax, Inc.
Carmel, IN
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8/LeftElevator/TrimTab |
From: | seaok71302(at)Juno.com (mike a adams) |
BACKRIVET, JUST LIKE THE STIFFENERS, EXCEPT, TO STRIKE THE BLOW, SINCE
THE BACKRIVET TOOL WILL NOT FIT, USE A SMALL PIECE OF STEEL AND A HAMMER;
DON'T LAUGH, IT WORKS GREAT!
MIKE ADAMS/#2316/-4/Vancouver, WA
>
>Problem:
>Oh the HINGED sections of both the E607 and E607 spars, I can not get
>any
>bucking bar or squeezer head I have to fit in the small space without
>hitting the hinge. My attempt to "finesse" a rivet resulted in 2
>hours of
>reforming a hinge section. The hinge is ooooooh so easy to hit and
>mess up!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | F Mark40 <FMark40(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8/LeftElevator/TrimTab |
In a message dated 5/22/98 6:08:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu writes:
> Oh the HINGED sections of both the E607 and E607 spars, I can not get any
> bucking bar or squeezer head I have to fit in the small space without
> hitting the hinge. My attempt to "finesse" a rivet resulted in 2 hours of
> reforming a hinge section. The hinge is ooooooh so easy to hit and mess
up!
>
I cut out a piece of 0.125 steel stock about 3/8 inch square and taped it to
the flush set. This gave the necessary clearance to squeeze the rivets in the
hinge.
Mark McGee
Upstate NY
RV 4 Skinning Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine ignition option ordering info? |
On 23 May 98 at 0:24, rimbold wrote:
> Bernie and I are about to order the engine from Van's for our
RV-6A.
> We're going to get an O-320, and would like to use a Lightspeed
> ignition for one set of plugs, and a regular magneto for the other.
>
> Has anyone else ordered this combination from Van's? Can it be
> ordered this way?
Be aware that Klaus recently modified the standard configuration of
the Lightspeed Plasma ignition so it doesn't have a "groundable p
lead" function. Thats now a $50 option. You need the option only if
you want to use the Lightspeed with a standardx A/C key switch. If
you plan to use on/off switches the "standard configuration" will
work just fine.
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
ect.com>
>Can anyone tell me how to remove the crank plug? It looks like I need
>some special tool. Can't wait until that big Hartzell is swingin!
>Bob Japundza
The "special tool" is an automotive dent puller. Drill a small hole in the
front plug and thread the dent puller into it. "Tap" the dent puller
weight out to remove the plug. I have seen them removed with a prybar
stuck through a hole drilled in the plug and braced against a block of wood
to prevent marring the crank, too.
Remember before you get ahead of yourself that you must put the rear plug
in *BEFORE* hanging that new expensive C/S prop!!
For those who have never seen a dent puller it is nothing fancy. A metal
rod with a sliding weight and a self tapping screw on one end. There are
probably several other ways to remove the crank plug. The key thing to
remember with any method one devises is that you want no shavings left in
the crank snout, excessive force inline with the crankshaft should not be
needed (and is hard on the thrust surfaces), and it should not involve
metal tools striking, prying or scratching the nice cad plate on the crank
flange.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine ignition option ordering info? |
Any comments on the relative quality of the
>Slick magneto that comes as standard equipment?
>Rob Rimbold, rimbold(at)ntr.net
Uhhh, yeah. They fly spam cans around everyday with a minimum of care and
feeding. I have owned several sets which went well past 2000 Hr TBO with
nary a whimper. Would you like to sell your brand new Slick(s) so that you
can install the LS ignition?
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8/LeftElevator/TrimTab |
F Mark40 wrote:
>
>
> > Oh the HINGED sections of both the E607 and E607 spars, I can not get any
> > bucking bar or squeezer head I have to fit in the small space without
> > hitting the hinge. My attempt to "finesse" a rivet resulted in 2 hours of
> > reforming a hinge section. The hinge is ooooooh so easy to hit and mess
> up!
>
I have been watching the posts on this subject and an surprised that no one has
referred to the tool shown on page 3 in the book "14 years of the RVator". You
can
also refer to the RVator - March 03/89. This tool is made of 3/8" stock and
notched along one edge with cutouts that clear both the hinge eyes and the fold
up along the edge of the skins. It took me about 1 hour to make one up and I have
never stopped lending it out to other builder in my area since. This took will
make perfect shop heads every time and does not damage the hinge. If you
need the plans for this tool contact me and I will photo copy them for you.
Doug Murray - Southern Alberta - RV-6 - Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sensenich metal prop for O-360 question |
> I was checking out the web page for the new Sensenich metal prop for the
> 180hp 0-360 and the performance numbers looked outstanding. I may be all
> wet but how much better will a variable pitch prop be and is it worth going
> to a V.P. prop with all the added weight and expense when this prop seems to
> perform so well. >>
>
>I was going to leave this one alone, since no one wants to hear about a VP
>prop which weights less than a metal fixed pitch.
>But since I'm referring to the Ivoprop Magnum electric In-Flight djustable
>Prop, someone is bound to start talking about life insurance.
>Jim Ayers
Having installed and tested some of the IVO props on a FAST experimental
let me say that rumors of lost blades aside, the IVO prop was the smoothest
running prop I ever saw. I installed the early version which was *NOT*
cockpit adjustable as an alternative to a Vari-Prop and a couple wood props.
The old IVO was so smooth and quite that one could hardly hear the fan
turning. It was also very light installed with the adjustable pitch
option. After not being able to get much above 120 MPH out of a 200+ MPH
airplane IVO repitched the blades and I tried again. Even after installing
the second complete set new of blades and the electric prop pitch
adjustment kit 140 MPH was still an unachievable goal. The props all ran
smoothly and quitely and pushed the plane well on T/O (former Navy flight
officer said it was closest thing to Cat shot he'd experienced!), it had
*NO* top end. I eventually tired of IVO's "blade set of the month club"
and went with a F/P wood and occasionally the Vari-Prop. Gave up the "Cat
shot" T/O but gained top end. 200+ cruise is no problem, 235 is available
when a Bonanza or Mooney needs its clock cleaned.
What did I learn from this? IVO makes a great prop for Slower aircraft,
but the pitch seems to flatten out at high RPM, thus limiting the
airframe's cruise performance. I never lost a blade from an IVO prop and
had several sets of blades to try with. I ran 2 and 3 blade
configurations with ground and cockpit adjustable setups. All seemed to
hold the engine well for static runups, and at altitude they all absorbed
as much power as could be thrown at them. Couldn't really figure this part
out. It seemed that they were pitched well on the ground, but if the
blades flattened out at high RPM, why didn't they want to overspeed? If
they were *NOT* flattening out at high RPMs, why would the plane not
continue accelerating with additional power like it would with the other
(Non-Ivo) props? The IVOs just would *NOT* allow the proven plane to
perform at cruise like any of the other props I tried.
I consider the FP wood prop, FP metal prop, and the hartzell style C/S
props to be the best for higher speed homebuilts, based on my personal
experience.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
Here is the reply I received from Jon concerning his seats. I am
interested in one but, the shipping cost is very high. Jon says
they can put at least 4 seats in one box and the shipping would
be the same. Would 4 others be interested in going in with me
and getting some seats? We could get them shipped to one persons
house, then UPS them to the others. Let me know. Michael
All the best from Aus,
Jon Johanson
The seat used in VH-NOJ is a carbon kevlar moulded seat similar
to those
used in race cars. I went to this seat simply because the
standard RV-4
seat was only good for three hours at best and I needed 16 hours.
There are
a few of these seats being used in RV-4s now with the comment
being made by
everyone that they wish they had put one in earlier. I also have
one in the
back now much to my passengers delight - have you ever sat in the
back of
an RV-4 for a few hours? Its not a lot better than the front.
These seats will also be perfect for the RV-8, I would not build
one
without using these seats. There are no -8s here that I have been
able to
fit a seat to as yet but as the fitting is very easy I am sure
they will go
in without any trouble.
I have found that the RV-6 seating is far superior to the -4 and
as a
result I have not been tempted to fit these seats into a -6. That
is not to
say they would not fit, I am sure they would, its just that I
have not
been approached to do so.
As far as fitting the seat into an RV-4 goes it is almost
ridiculously
easy. The hardest part is dealing with the flaps. If electric
flaps are
being used there is no problem but with manual flaps a new
bracket is
needed to hold the flap position as the standard RV seat back
where this
usually takes place is removed. As my seat is a little wider than
the
standard seat the flap handle needs to be bent out a little as
well. This
reduces the room for passengers feet but is very little more
restrictive
than the standard RV-4. I had manual flaps for both of my world
flights but
found the packing space they took up was inconvenient and have
since fitted
electric flaps which I find very good.
To fit the seat its self all that is required is to remove the
original
seat down to floor level and sit the seat in place. The seat is
captured by
a rebate that sits up against the main spar on the bottom and the
head rest
section fits snugly between the apex of the roll bar resting
against the
roll bar cross member. When the pilot is strapped in (for smart
pilots a
five point harness is the minimum) the seat is fixed solid and
good for a
flight of 15 hours and 12 minutes, any more than that I cant
vouch for.
As far as adjusting the seats for the pilot goes there is room
for
adjustment by packing under the rebate on the spar and at the
roll bar. The
only pilot I know who has had trouble fitting into my RV is only
about 5
foot 3 inches tall and that is to be expected for an aircraft
built for a 6
foot 1 inch pilot.
The seats can come either as carbon Kevlar or straight
fibreglass:-
Carbon kevlar 2.2kg (4.9lbs) A$950.00
(~US$620.00)
Fibreglass 4Kg (8.8lbs) A$550.00
(~US$358.00)
There are seven colours to choose from:- Grey (same as NOJ),
bright red,
electric blue, navy blue, black, bright yellow and green (a bit
lighter
than billiard table green).
Air freight and packaging costs to your door in America from
Australia are
~A$525.00 (~US$342.00)
The size of the package is cubed rather than taken on weight so
if possible
the more seats in each package the cheaper as the freight cost
will be very
close to that quoted wether there are one or four seats in the
box.
jon2.jpg
Name:
jon2.jpg
Type:
JPEG Image (image/jpeg)
Encoding:
base64
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
Subject: | Re: RV-4/6 - IO-360 experience |
>
>Mayday! Mayday!
>
>I am co-building an RV-6 and for our sins, we plan on putting an IO-360
>200hp angle-valve Lycoming in the front.
>
>1)RV type
>2)Registration number
>3)Engine type
>4)Propeller type
>5)Hours flown
>6)Date of first flight
>7)Contact name, address, tel no, e-mail address etc.
>
>
>Many thanks, in anticipation
>
>Jerry Parr
>RV-6 G-RVVI
>Fuse complete, starting on the systems....
>Peterborough, England
Jerry,
Which engine are you using? Is it counterweighted? Steve's is
counterweighted and is using an extended hub prop - both engine and prop is
heavier than non counterwieghted and standard HC-C2YK Hartzell.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Shelby in Nashville.
IO-360 A1B
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>Somewhere I recall that someone is manufacturing and selling tow bars
>for RVs - can any lister remind me who was selling them? Thanks.
The Tail Dragger Dragger is a good one for the non-A series. They make a
special version for the RV series that is angled to miss the rudder. I
modified mine to make it work better.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
Subject: | Re: Salvage Bidding |
>It is possible to do though. A friend won the bid on a storm damaged
>Cherokee 140 and got it for about $7000 (and he only had to go acrossed
>town to pick it up).
>The biggest problem is that you are bidding blind and if you bid
>aggressively enough to get one you could end up with something that (to
>you) is not worth what you had to pay for it. I even traveled to inspect
>a couple that I bid on, and I was sure glad that I did. The info
>provided is usually rather vague, though I found that if you call the
>usually provided phone # of the party that is holding/storing the salvage
>they are usually helpful with answering questions and giving more
>information.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
Some more good information from Scott. The bid I won(by $98) was heavily
researched including an expert in the aircraft type(my partner basically),
the previous mechanics(both airframe and avionics that worked on the
plane), every owner I could track down, FAA title and modification/repair
searches, and pricing out every part/accessory with any value. I still
tried to factor in/out what I thought would be a profit for the salvage
bidders, but ultimately it came down to what I would have to pay for the
parts on the market as well as what I felt I could afford.
The jury is still out as to how well I did. There were a couple of tricks
that helped me but I have but in some bids since and have missed every one.
It is the age old scenario of buying what you need when you need it even if
it is a little more expensive. Also, if the engine or part you buy from the
salvage company is bad you have some recourse. If you win the salvage bid
it's like your wife - for better or worse.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Qmax LLC <QmaxLLC(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: flight over populated areas |
I had hoped to fly my 6 out of San Carlos Airport but the FAA has prohibited
the first 40 hours from here. Kinda picky....I mean what's the big deal about
having 4 million people underneath you? You see, SQL is on the San Francisco
Bay, so it makes sense.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
<<
Subj: RV-List: crank plug
Date: 98-05-23 01:41:44 EDT
From: bjapundza@iis-intellect.com (Bob Japundza)
Can anyone tell me how to remove the crank plug? It looks like I need
some special tool. Can't wait until that big Hartzell is swingin!
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Network Consultant, MCSE
ImageMax, Inc.
Carmel, IN
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com >>
Hello Listers,
I taked to a Lycoming tech rep about this very subject. He said you use a
punch and hammer.
Place the punch at the center of the plug, and hit the punch with the hammer.
I haven't done this myself. But I understand the principle. By canning :-)
the center of the plug, it reduces the diameter of the plug, so it is free to
be removed.
The Lycoming tech rep also recommended to NOT drill a hole. This creates
debris that can get into the engine.
BTW, the new plug is already canned. To install it, you flatten it out inside
the crank to make it a larger diameter.
Jim Ayers
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
<< Can anyone tell me how to remove the crank plug? It looks like I need
some special tool. >>
I took a 5/16" drill bit and drilled a shallow hole in it (just to thin it
out). Then cleaned up the chips and took a hammer and punch the rest of the
way. Twist it around and voila! Then just swab out the uckum-yucky from the
hollow crank.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
I just wanted to add that if you are pulling this crank plug on a used
eng for any reason,,, clean and inspect the bore for rust and pitting.
I believe this is Lyc SB 505 Stew RV4 273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
Subject: | John in New Mexico |
To John ? in New Mexico.
The message you left on your answering machine was garbled and I
couldn't get your last name or phone number.
If you are reading this, please call or e-mail back.
Sorry to everyone else for this personal message.
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
Winterland Publications
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>>Somewhere I recall that someone is manufacturing and selling tow bars
>>for RVs - can any lister remind me who was selling them? Thanks.
>
>The Tail Dragger Dragger is a good one for the non-A series. They make a
>special version for the RV series that is angled to miss the rudder. I
>modified mine to make it work better.
Got sent before I was done.....
Really handy for dragging the airplane in tight quarters in the hanger. Or
just moving it around. Caution has to be used so you don't bang it into the
tailfeathers, but shouldn't you ALWAYS be careful of that?
Skyline Aviation
8298 Reid Road, Hanger #11
Swartz Creek, MI 48473
810-635-8724
Tell them what airplane you have as there are several different models.
Would also be pretty easy to make if welding is in your list of talents.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
WAY Beyond The Boundries
us, why not? By the way, Kelli
is not jealous of the new addition to our lives. She calls it the Magic
Carpet. The story of our first long cross-country is coming soon to an RV
list near you.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q (aka Magic Carpet)
WAY Beyond The Boundries
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
<< My personal feeling though
would make me lean much harder towards speeding some of my airplane
building money on a constant speed and maybe even do with out some of the
other options and gadgets that most of us can do without if we need to >>
Scott, would you share your opinion (which I highly respect), on a list of the
gadgets we are seeing in RV's these days and rank them in your priority order.
TIA
Bernie Kerr, 6A fuselage, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Riedlinger" <paulried(at)ornaprod.com> |
Subject: | Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
Ok, I have beat myself to death on this one.
What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank rib
before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring? My hole cutter
only goes up to 4" and I looked at Lowes and they have hole cutters for
plumbing that go up to 4-1/2" max.
Help!
Paul Riedlinger
paulried(at)ornaprod.com
http://paulried.home.mindspring.com (My RV-6A homepage)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
Subject: | Lycoming 0-320 Crank AD |
The FAA AD on inspecting hollow crank shafts on 0-320's calls for
applying some "product" (I assume it's a rust preventative) on the
hollow interior if all is well, prior to reseating the sealing plug.
WHERE CAN THIS BE OBTAINED?
BTW a past issue of Sport Aviation had a detailed article on how to
remove the plug, and reseat a new one, etc. It was a Tony Benglis
article. I can get more specific if anyone wants details.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
How did you cut all the holes in the wing ribs? Oh, that's right, you're
one of those lucky guys that got the kit with the holes already cut.
Those of us that built our RV's from the raw ore already have the tool
needed to cut that simple little hole.
You need a 'fly-wheel' cutter; no, I don't know why it's called that. It
consists of a center drill bit and a horizontal arm with a vertical cutting
tooth. Chuck the cutter into your drill press and clamp the rib securely
onto the table (very securely; you don't want to think of the damage a
spinning rib can do to your tender anatomy). You want to cut at the
slowest speed your drill press can handle.
John
>
>Ok, I have beat myself to death on this one.
>
>What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank rib
>before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring? My hole cutter
>only goes up to 4" and I looked at Lowes and they have hole cutters for
>plumbing that go up to 4-1/2" max.
>
>Help!
>
>
>Paul Riedlinger
>paulried(at)ornaprod.com
>http://paulried.home.mindspring.com (My RV-6A homepage)
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
Seattle WA USA
1974 1/2 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/14/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0-320 Crank AD |
I believe you will find that the coating you mentioned is not available
in the field. As of yet any way. It could be available too us someday.
Contact lycoming for details .
Stew RV4 273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Just received a set of superior gears for a lycoming eng. They had been on
order for one year. Any one need a set of gears??
Stew RV4 273sb CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
I have put a new 0-360 ex Vans in my RV6A and just removed the front plug
when
I put the CS prop on.I was told this is all I have to do so I didn't worry
about the "back"
plug to be put in.My prop has to come off again anyway and it hasn't been
lockwired
so it isn't a big deal.But now I'm really not sure wether I have to put
this back plug in or not.
Would there be a specialist out there to clear this up.
thank you!
Karl Ahamer RV6AQ near Sydney
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
All:
Guys, as far as I'm concerned, my Hartzell Constant Speed Prop is worth
every nickel I paid for it. takeoff performance is phenomenal. By the
time I have all the power in, she's airborne. Even when I use a climb
speed of 110 mph, by the time I turn from crosswind to downwind, I'm at
2000 feet agl. By the time I'm downwind abeam, I'm punching through the
top of the Class D and the tower is saying "Frequency Change Approved". And
this is with a 320, not a 360.
Until now, I have NEVER owned an airplane with this kind of exhilerating
performance.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
My el-cheapo fly cutter also wasn't large enough to cut the inspection
cover hole in the tank root rib. I resorted to a tool all of us probably
have in the box.....a pair of aviation snips. Use either the red or
green handled variety and cut in the appropriate direction. They work
best if you cut to within a 1/4" the first pass, then cut to final size
the second time around. A few passes with the 2" ScotchBrite wheel
cleans up any burrs.
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
John Ammeter wrote:
>
> You need a 'fly-wheel' cutter; no, I don't know why it's called that. It
> consists of a center drill bit and a horizontal arm with a vertical cutting
> tooth. Chuck the cutter into your drill press and clamp the rib securely
> onto the table (very securely; you don't want to think of the damage a
> spinning rib can do to your tender anatomy). You want to cut at the
> slowest speed your drill press can handle.
>
> John
>
> >
> >Ok, I have beat myself to death on this one.
> >
> >What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank rib
> >before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring? My hole cutter
> >only goes up to 4" and I looked at Lowes and they have hole cutters for
> >plumbing that go up to 4-1/2" max.
> >
> >Help!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DAVENDANA1 <DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Did You Know... |
INFO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
Dave; Are you saying that in your opinion, if money were the issue, you would
rather have a constant speed prop on an 0-320 than a fixed pitch on a 0-360?
This is where I am at on my RV-8, trying to decide between the two, and so far
everything seems to point to cs prop and 320 as being a nice, economical, but
still high performance combo. Any other opinions?
Von Alexander
RV-8#544 Installing fuse side skins
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Wanted - Crankshaft |
<35510141.D6F80850(at)ctnet.net>
From: | tcastella(at)Juno.com (Anthony J Castellano) |
Does anyone know where I can get a good crankshaft for a Lycoming
O360 A1A?
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (fuselage now out of jig)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Help on IO 360 Offer |
From: | "William H. Watson" <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> |
A guy I know stopped by the hanger and offered to sell his used IO 360
A1B6D. He says: "what will you offer for it?" I try to act coy and say
I guess one could be stuffed in an RV 6A and will do some research and
get back to him.
It has 150 hours since a major overhaul, with about 1400 since new. It
includes a constant speed prop, governor, spin-on oil filter, Bendix dual
mag, starter, alternator, etc.
Assuming it is in OK shape (I wouldn't assume anything, but for purposes
of ballparking the price), what kind of bucks are we looking at?
I plan to look in the archives to see if it will fit in my 6. I thinks
there are some issues with the induction system plumbing?
Thanks for your help.
Skinning left wing.
William H. Watson
wmwatson(at)earthlink.net
H: 650 254-1656
W: 408 553-4225
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: flight over populated areas |
Just in from one of our people at EAA Chapter 242 ...
> > From: Dick Knapinski
> > Sent: Friday, May 22, 1998 4:14 PM
> > To: 'Cummings, Sue'; Bob Mackey; Bob Warner; Earl Lawrence; HG
> > Frautschy; Jack Cox; Joe Schumacher; Pete Moll; Mary Jones; Tim
> > Bogenhagen; Tom Poberezny
> > Subject: EAA receives FAA clarification on homebuilt overflights
> >
> > For more information contact:
> > Dick Knapinski, Media and Public Relations
> > (920) 426-6523
> > dknapinski(at)eaa.org
> >
> > FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
> >
> > EAA EFFORTS RESULT IN CLARIFICATION OF URBAN OVERFLIGHT GUIDELINES
FOR
> > EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT
> >
> > EAA AVIATION CENTER, OSHKOSH, Wis. - (May 22, 1998) - The
> > Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has issued a bulletin
clarifying
> > limitations for Experimental amateur-built aircraft flying over
> > populated areas, which will hopefully end confusion over the issue
> > that had emerged in the western United States.
> >
> > The Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA) and its members in
> > the region had requested the clarification after confusion over
> > operating limitations arose among local pilots and FAA officials in
> > the Los Angeles area. The confusion over proper operating procedure
> > threatened to slow or halt flying activity as pilots were
reluctant to
> > fly their Experimental "homebuilt" aircraft for fear of being
found in
> > violation of regulations or FAA policy.
> >
> > "EAA always maintained that FAA had established its policy on
> > amateur-built overflights of populated areas more than 25 years
ago,"
> > EAA President Tom Poberezny said. "That policy was based on
homebuilt
> > aircraft's excellent safety record after the test period. Although
> > this situation grew out of a singular case regarding an experimental
> > exhibition aircraft, it's important to reiterate current policy for
> > amateur-built operations."
> >
> > The FAA bulletin states that once flight testing is completed in
> > a homebuilt, an Experimental amateur-built aircraft may "operate
over
> > densely populated areas, both en route and during takeoffs and
> > landings, and operate within congested airways of the National
> > Airspace System (NAS)."
> >
> > EAA also asked FAA Headquarters to reiterate to local and region
> > offices that FAA Headquarters should establish policy for U.S.
> > airspace, to prevent a patchwork of regulations that might vary
> > throughout the country.
> >
> > The situation began when FAA's Flight Standards District Office
> > (FSDO) in Long Beach, Calif., contacted experimental aircraft owners
> > operating at John Wayne Airport in Orange County, Calif.
> > Representatives from that FSDO informed those airplane owners that
> > they may be in violation of FAR Part 91, which prohibits
Experimental
> > category aircraft over populated areas "unless otherwise approved."
> >
> > That was in conflict with FAA policy established in 1972, which
> > stated that amateur-built aircraft could operate over populated
areas
> > once certain conditions were met. The policy was created because
such
> > operations are not deemed a safety concern, but rather a means of
> > limiting risk during the initial test phase of such aircraft. This
> > clarification by FAA Headquarters reinforces that policy nationwide.
> >
> > FAA requested EAA's input on the issue, particularly in drafting
> > a clarification for operating limitations after initial test
flights.
> > EAA is continuing to work with FAA Headquarters and its Western
Region
> > offices to solve the particular situations regarding operations at
> > John Wayne Airport. The Long Beach FSDO is also involved in the
> > issue, so a reasonable solution to the current situation can be
> > implemented quickly. EAA has also asked FAA to clarify the same
issue
> > for experimental-exhibition aircraft.
> >
> > EAA is the world's leading recreation aviation organization,
> > with 170,000 members and more than 950 local Chapters. For more
> > information on EAA and its programs, call 1-800-JOIN-EAA
> > (1-800-564-6322) or explore EAA's World Wide Web site (www.eaa.org).
> >
> >
James
RV6A QB ... Electric Flaps
Columbia, SC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
I drilled inch holes all around the circumference of the hole, punched
out the resulting disk and then spent an hour per hole filing and
sanding it smooth.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403
tank rib
before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring? My
hole cutter
only goes up to 4" and I looked at Lowes and they have hole
cutters for
plumbing that go up to 4-1/2" max.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
Subject: | Lycoming 0-320 Crank AD |
The stuff you are referring to has the startling name of URETHABOND 104.
While it is a specialty item, you can probably scarf some from your local
FBO -- they're going to be using A LOT of this stuff this year. I don't
even want to tell you the jokes I've heard about warnings on the can in
case you get the stuff on certain parts of your body.
Regards,
Nick Knobil
RV-8 Wings on Wait
Bowdoinham, Maine
(You can't get here from there)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylortel.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
Paul Riedlinger wrote:
> What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank rib
> before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring?
I cut mine out on a scroll saw using a #7 blade. Works like a charm. I do
not
like fly cutters. I came very close to losing a hand to one of them. It sure made
the blood fly though.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, Tx. RV-4 90% complete 90% to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
>> >What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank rib
>> >before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring? My hole cutter
>> >only goes up to 4" and I looked at Lowes and they have hole cutters for
>> >plumbing that go up to 4-1/2" max.
>> >
>> >Help!
>
I found a "fly-cutter" type hole cutter that is big enough at Sears
Hardware, the cost was about $22. It's the drill type with the arm and
cutter attached. Worked great for the tank access hole. Be careful with a
hole cutter. Seems to be the most dangerous tool I ever used!!!!
Bill Pagan
80555 - still sealing the tanks & doin other wing stuff>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
If hole cutten is what you want try MALCO'S ( HC1 ) hole cutter, range is
from 2" to 12" perfect hole every time. If you live near a sheetmetal or air
conditioning supply shop, it should cost between 35-40 dollars.
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HillJW <HillJW(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
Am interested in this discussion. Have an io-360 200 HP, and need to decide
on a prop. Does anyone know what Sensinich has for that engine?
hilljw(at)aol.comm
rv-8a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
Does anyone recommend where I can get buy a good towbar (pushbar) for an
RV-6A?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
>I have put a new 0-360 ex Vans in my RV6A and just removed the front plug
>when I put the CS prop on. I was told this is all I have to do so I
didn't >worry about the "back" plug to be put in. My prop has to come off
again >anyway and it hasn't been lockwired so it isn't a big deal. But now
I'm >really not sure wether I have to put this back plug in or not.
>Would there be a specialist out there to clear this up.
>thank you!
>Karl Ahamer RV6AQ near Sydney
I can't tell you if there is possibly a Lycoming engine which doesn't need
the plug at the back of the crank snout for the C/S prop, but *MOST* all do
need them. The purpose of the back plug is to stop up the hole which would
let all the oil from the governor spill out into the crankcase rather than
pressurise the prop hub to tip the blades. I can't think of a way for the
prop to work without the plug at the back of the crank. If your local
expert is willing to bet a steak dinner on his "no plug" method, and then
come to the airport on Sunday afternoon and install the plug for you at no
charge if it doesn't work, take him up on it. Otherwise, get the plug
put in when the prop is off!
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0-320 Crank AD |
>The FAA AD on inspecting hollow crank shafts on 0-320's calls for
>applying some "product" (I assume it's a rust preventative) on the
>hollow interior if all is well, prior to reseating the sealing plug.
>WHERE CAN THIS BE OBTAINED?
I got mine from the local engine shop. Turned out *MINE* was the first one
they'd done. It is *EXPENSIVE* stuff. It came in a 1.5 gallon kit that
was over $200!!! I wasn't keen to do it myself after reading the warnings
on the can. I let them do the painting after I'd cleaned and honed the ID
of the crank.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | X-country flying |
Listers,
I just took my first really long trip in my RV-6A and had a great time. I
learned a few things that I thought that I would share. First, VFR conditions
do not always mean VFR flying. I took off from St. Charles, MO with barely
VFR conditions due to the haze from the fires in Mexico and as I climbed to
cruising altitude, could see less and less of the ground. I had both GPS (a
Garmin GPS Map 195) and Loran (a II Morrow 618TCA) so I thought I had no
problem finding my destination near Columbus, OH. I have gotten so used to
the GPS that I didn't set up the Loran. That was a mistake. After about ten
minutes of flight, I got a "Poor GPS Coverage" message and the screen went
blank. I then started to set up the Loran, but found that due to the poor
visibility, I was wandering all over the sky while setting it up. Even though
it was VFR, there was no horizon and only a small part of the ground was
visible. That made holding a heading very difficult. I changed the antenna
on the GPS and got the signal back. I just love the GPS moving map, but found
that it was still hard to keep a heading without a horizon. The HSI page on
the GPS is much easier to use to hold heading and track because it is much
more intuitive and easier to interpret. I didn't figure that out until I had
flown nearly 16 hours of hard "IFR" in VFR conditions.
The lessons learned from this trip are many, but a few are more important than
others. First, VFR is not always VFR. Three miles visibility with haze can
make it nearly impossible to fly without IFR instrumentation unless you want
to fly close to the ground and hope that you don't run into a tall antenna.
Second, use all available navigation aids that you have and get them set up
before you take off. If one proves unusable, you have the others ready. If
you plan to do much cross country flying, get a wing leveler so that you can
look at charts, set up GPS or Loran sets, etc., without having the plane
wander off of your desired course. The RV holds altitude very well and
listening to the RPM will give you an indication if you are climbing or
descending (if you have a fixed pitch prop), so something that will hold a
heading or course will make flying much easier. I plan to order a wing
leveler immediately. One thing that I learned is that the RV is an incredible
cross country flying machine. In nine days, I flew all over the eastern US
and had a great time, even though the weather was less than desirable. Thanks
go to Van for such a great plane.
Jim Cone
RV-6A flying GREAT!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Pitot line fitting, Tank attach angle |
Hi Listers,
I'm busy building fuel tanks (and have the blackened fingernails to
prove it!). Whilst waiting for the sealant to set, I'm doing other
bits and pieces, specifically the pitot tube fitting.
So,
1. The plans call out AN426AD4-7 rivets to attach T405/T410 to the
root rib. Why flush rivets? And which way round do they go? (I'd guess
the flush heads would be to the outside of the tank?)
2. How long should the pitot line be? Does it need to extend any
further inboard than the inboard end of the fuel tank? What fitting
goes on the inboard end of it? The plans only show it as far as Sta.
44.
3. To flare the pitot tube end, did you push it out the hole in the
spar? Or maybe through the inspection hole in the skin? I'd guess (but
haven't tried) that after flaring it won't fit through the plastic
grommets in the ribs.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: Help on IO 360 Offer |
wrote:
>A guy I know stopped by the hanger and offered to sell his used IO 360
>A1B6D. He says: "what will you offer for it?" I try to act coy and say
>I guess one could be stuffed in an RV 6A and will do some research and
>get back to him.
about a year ago, an RV-6 with an IO360 was featured in Sport Aviation.
The builders christened her "The Other Woman". In the Sport Aviation
article, they flat out said that they would never try to do it (put an
IO-360 in an RV-6) again, due to the extra work.
My suggestion would be to buy the IO-360, sell it to an RV_8 builder at a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Firewall insulation |
All:
I just finished installing the firewall insulation/soundproofing I bought
from George Orndorff some time ago. The sound level in the cockpit is
significantly lower now.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
> Guys, as far as I'm concerned, my Hartzell Constant Speed Prop is worth
> every nickel I paid for it
Okay everyone,
I've just ordered a c/s capable engine, after my dilemma with the first
Lycoming and the crankshaft AD. Thinking about a c/s to go with it (no
more crank AD worries).
I've figured out that a c/s prop will pay for its initial cost over a f/p
installation in fuel savings, after a thousand plus hours or so. But what
about ongoing costs? What are the recurring costs (i.e. normal maint.,
overhauls, etc.) and intervals?
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Loren D. Jones" <Loren(at)LorenJones.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
>
>The lessons learned from this trip are many, but a few are more important
than
>others. First, VFR is not always VFR. Three miles visibility with haze
can
>make it nearly impossible to fly without IFR instrumentation unless you
want
Sounds pretty much like IFR to me. What's technically legal is not always
safe. Perhaps the safer route is file IFR.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
>I've figured out that a c/s prop will pay for its initial cost over a f/p
>installation in fuel savings, after a thousand plus hours or so. But what
>about ongoing costs? What are the recurring costs (i.e. normal maint.,
>overhauls, etc.) and intervals?
The CS prop does have a TBO. I think it is 1500 hours. A local prop shop
gets about $2K for a normal prop overhaul, but the cost of the overhaul
will depend more upon who does it than any other factor, IMHO.
Frankly, I did not try to justify the cost of the CS prop in any way. I
just wanted one.
Best Regards
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don Pfeiffer <donp(at)scruznet.com> |
Subject: | Cowling clearance from Exhaust ? |
I have a 0-360 with Vetterman Crossover exhaust. On the left side the
Clearance is 1/2 to 5/8" between exhaust and cowling for about 6 to 8 inches.
Should the cowling be protected with some kind of heat shield or is this
sufficient clearance? If so what is best way to do this?
Don Pfeiffer
RV6
donp(at)scruznet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Riedlinger" <paulried(at)ornaprod.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
Update:
Went to Home Depot today and found a whole General Tools section. They had
an adjustable up to 8" fly cutter for 11.95. Took me a whopping 2 minutes
to cut the hole.
Thanks for the help
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylortel.com>
Date: Sunday, May 24, 1998 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407
>
>
>
>Paul Riedlinger wrote:
>
>> What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank rib
>> before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring?
>
> I cut mine out on a scroll saw using a #7 blade. Works like a charm. I
do not
>like fly cutters. I came very close to losing a hand to one of them. It
sure made
>the blood fly though.
>
> Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, Tx. RV-4 90% complete 90% to go.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Help Please. My computer has shot craps and I would appreciate if
someone will contact Matt and ask him to unsubscribe me from the list
until I can get my system back on line. Im writing this message from
a remote computer and am having difficulty unsubscribing from the list
in the normal way using a remote computer.
the following is the address that the system will recognize.
thnx
chet razer
razer(at)midwest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot line fitting, Tank attach angle |
Frank van der Hulst wrote:
> 1. The plans call out AN426AD4-7 rivets to attach T405/T410 to the
> root rib. Why flush rivets? And which way round do they go? (I'd guess
> the flush heads would be to the outside of the tank?)
>
On my six the plans call for AN470 rivets for this. Don't see any need for AN426
here.
> 2. How long should the pitot line be? Does it need to extend any
> further inboard than the inboard end of the fuel tank? What fitting
> goes on the inboard end of it? The plans only show it as far as Sta.
> 44.
I left mine about two feet longer on the root end after it exits from behind the
tank. This will get cut off and be attached to a vinyl / plastic line to and go
through the fuselage skin and up to the airspeed indicator.
>
>
> 3. To flare the pitot tube end, did you push it out the hole in the
> spar? Or maybe through the inspection hole in the skin? I'd guess (but
> haven't tried) that after flaring it won't fit through the plastic
> grommets in the ribs.
I used a 1 foot piece of copper tubing of the same diameter to exactly get the
bends in the right place as it goes through the lightening hole in the spar and
then through the tip ribs. My bottom skins were off so I flared the aluminum tube
and then routed it through the holes.
Gary Zilik
6A S/N 22993 Fuselage out of the jig.
Pine Junction, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
Starting to think about electrical wiring and wondering if anyone has
advice on crimpers for the wiring terminals. I understand that I will need
one that does a double crimp and they are expensive.
Thanks.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6-A, fuel tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>Remember before you get ahead of yourself that you must put the rear plug
>in *BEFORE* hanging that new expensive C/S prop!!
>
>Bob Steward, A&P IA
>AA-1B N8978L
>AA-5A N1976L
Bob,
The new engines from Van's have the back plug in place (as well as the
front), so for these you need only to remove the front plug if you are
installing a CSU. My understanding is that if you are converting an engine
that has been running a fixed pitch you then need to add the rear plug
behind the oil return bar.
I am prepared to bow to your superior knowledge on this but I think what I
am saying is correct.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
>Hello Listers,
>
>I taked to a Lycoming tech rep about this very subject. He said you use a
>punch and hammer.
>
>Place the punch at the center of the plug, and hit the punch with the hammer.
>
>I haven't done this myself. But I understand the principle. By canning :-)
>the center of the plug, it reduces the diameter of the plug, so it is free to
>be removed.
>
>The Lycoming tech rep also recommended to NOT drill a hole. This creates
>debris that can get into the engine.
>
>BTW, the new plug is already canned. To install it, you flatten it out
inside
>the crank to make it a larger diameter.
>
>Jim Ayers
>LesDrag(at)aol.com
>Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Jim,
The above sounds like the good oil. I drilled my plug (as noted on previous
post) and was very distressed at all the little metal bits inside my crank.
Spent a long time with rag, solvents and air gun getting it clean to my
satisfaction.
...... and I was wondering how the heck you installed a new plug, you
obviously stick it in with the convexity out and give it a whack....
so nice when the lights come on
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
ect.com>
>Can anyone tell me how to remove the crank plug? It looks like I need
>some special tool. Can't wait until that big Hartzell is swingin!
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Japundza
Bob,
The Tony Bingellis engine book has a nice diagram of this. I drilled a hole
in the plug, enlarged it with my Unibit, then levered it out with a bit of
steel that was a close fit to the hole. Carefull not to score the inside of
the crank. Carefull not to damage the oil return pipe about 3 inches back.
Leo Davies
Mounting Bob Nuckolls fuse blocks in my 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
> Loran (a II Morrow 618TCA) so I thought I had no
>problem finding my destination near Columbus, OH. I have gotten so used to
>the GPS that I didn't set up the Loran.
Jim
I am seeing Lorans for sale in Trade A Plane for $250-$350. For that
price I am thinking of getting one to use with my handheld as a backup.
Are there any cons to watch out for? Any suggestions on what type of used
Loran to get?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
RV-6a (Finishing $#@# fuel tanks for the 3rd time )
Phoenix, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
My RV-8 website is up and running. Not complete (are any of these? ever?)
but there is some content there for anyone who may be interested. Any
feedback welcome.
http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
____
Chris Hinch Phone: +64-3-477-2995
Animation Research Ltd Fax: +64-3-479-9751
Systems Manager e-mail: chinch(at)arl.co.nz
442 Moray Place, PO Box 5580, Dunedin, New Zealand
RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A Towbars |
<< Does anyone recommend where I can get buy a good towbar (pushbar) for an
RV-6A? >>
Andy-
Ken Barto has the best. Get the heavy gauge one as the lighter ones bend too
easily IMO. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
A man came to the airport yesterday and said he has a lot of time
in an rv-4 another man owns. He said it had a 150 in it with a
wooden prop (unknown manu.). He said it would do 185 at 8000
feet, full throttle. He then put the new metal f.p. prop on it
and the top speed went to 230 mph. He said the rpm restriction
has been removed from the new models of the metal prop. Is this
true? Is this speed change possible? Hard for me to believe,
but, you never know. Michael.
One other question. Is there anything else that would make a
prop overspeed at wide open throttle other than too little
pitch? I tried a 72" pitch and got 2950 rpm's, 76" pitch and got
2850 rpm's. He is now making me a 82" pitch prop that is really
for a 180 horse engine. This is on a 150 hp engine. And the
tach has been checked. Climb has been really good, but top speed
has only been about 185, with the 76" pitch. I suppose if the
plane was too draggy it would just bog the engine down instead of
turn too many rpm's. The prop maker doesn't understand it. He
thinks I have more hp than 150. I guess I will find out, if it
doesn't turn the bigger prop. Thanks for any insightful
guesses.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Pitot line fitting, Tank attach angle |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>1. The plans call out AN426AD4-7 rivets to attach T405/T410 to the
>root rib. Why flush rivets? And which way round do they go? (I'd guess
>the flush heads would be to the outside of the tank?)
>
>Frank.
>
>
>
This is called out because some builders install the bracket to the rib
before installing the rib in the skin. If you do it that way the rivet
heads can get in the way of squeezing the rivets in the skin/rib flange.
For this reason I always install the bracket after installing the rib.
But your right, the flush heads go on the outside of the bracket.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>>Dave; Are you saying that in your opinion, if money were the issue,
>you
>would
>>rather have a constant speed prop on an 0-320 than a fixed pitch on a
>0-360?
>>This is where I am at on my RV-8, trying to decide between the two,
>and so
>far
>>everything seems to point to cs prop and 320 as being a nice,
>economical, but
>>still high performance combo. Any other opinions?
>
>
>Yes, I think the 320/CS is a better combo than 360/FP. Given the
>price
>differential between a used 320 and a used 360, I also think that the
>two
>alternatives will cost about the same.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
>Flying
>
>
>
>
I almost agree entirely with Dave (he is a good friend so I'm sure he
wont mind :) ). Since you can buy a new O-360 for a little more than
$1000 more than an O-320 I think the O-320/constant speed combination
would probably be a little more expensive but would also probably be
easier to find if you are shopping for used engines.
It would still be my first choice. An RV with the O-320/constant speed
has excellent performance, and will probably come very close to matching
the performance #s of an RV with an O-360/fixed pitch prop.
It will be slightly heavier, the O-360 is approx 8 lbs. heavier than an
O-320, but the constant speed installation is approx 40 lbs heavier than
the fixed pitch.
One other consideration that I would like to add (some may disagree with
me) is that in real life service I believe the O-320 is a little more
fuel efficient in performance versus fuel burned than the O-360 is.
It is often said that "Ok I'll go with the 180 HP and then I can always
pull the power back a little and run with the 160 HP guys and burn the
same fuel". From my experience it doesn't work that way.
The O-320 has an MA4SPA carb and the O-360 has an MA5 carb. (which is a
larger bore carb.)
Also running a Lyc at less than full open throttle makes it less
efficient because the throttle plate acts as a deflector which causes
(more than normal) a mixture imbalance between the front and rear cyl's.
This prevents it from being leaned as far as it normally would.
This is not the case if both engines have fuel injection instead of
carburetors.
So if I had a choice... I would have a O-320/constant speed instead of an
O-360 with a fixed pitch prop.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
paulried(at)ornaprod.com wrote:
> What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank rib
> before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring?
I used a jigsaw. Not the neatest, most circular hole, but it's
functional, the right size, and no-one's going to see it anyway.
See http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunny2c.htm for
other tank-construction tips.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
48-51,57-59,63-64,66-67,71-77
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Scott, would you share your opinion (which I highly respect), on a
>list of the
>gadgets we are seeing in RV's these days and rank them in your
>priority order.
>TIA
>
>Bernie Kerr, 6A fuselage, SE Fla
>
>
>
Sure... as long as those itchy blow torch fingers keep in mind that this
is only my personal opinion, and you asked me for it.
If I were building on a limited budget, but was still determined to make
the best overall RV that I could I would do the following.
Build the airplane as light as practical
Build an instrument panel that was planned out with standard instrument
hole cutouts laid out in a logical manner to allow for installation of
upgrades and options later (meaning - fill the complete panel with
instrument holes and avionics cutouts).
Install just basic flight instruments and an electrical system that
allowed for easy upgrade and installation of new equipment.
For avionics I would install a single com unit (such as an Icom A-200)
with a stereo intercom, and a transponder/encoder (I like to fly cross
country above 10,000 ft when possible).
I would probably also install nav. lights and landing light(s)
Install an O-320 with a constant speed prop.
-Then working from this basic airplane as funds would allow (over and
above the basic airplane above) I would chose the following in approx.
this order.
-A GPS with moving map. (I know it is not a necessity, and I have flow
many RV hours with just a chart on my lap, but when the weather is bad
the situational awareness that it provides has mad me decide on it being
a Go/No-Go item for "Me" in dealing with any weather with less than 5
miles vis.
-A navaid auto pilot/wing leveler (coupled to the previously purchased
GPS
-An accurately calibrated fuel flow totalizer (such as the matronics
unit).
-Additional engine instrumentation for EGT and CHT
-At this point I would have a well laid out panel that would have painted
to match covers over "a lot" of the holes, and I can easily add other
things if I thought I needed them but I probably wouldn't change it much.
The plus side is that it makes it very easy for someone else to make it
into "there" ideal airplane if I would ever sell it (I have already sold
1 RV that I thought I would never sell).
The bottom line is only put in what you really need.
If you have never flown anything but the Cessna rent a wreck it the local
airport then maybe a good way to go is design for all contingencies but
keep it simple to start with, and then add later as you need it (this
will also be easier on the wallet and get you in the air sooner).
If you design your electrical system properly you can make it a
relatively simple project to add and upgrade.
Lastly ---- It's been said before (and will be again and again) every
single pound that you add to the basic airplane will effect its total
performance capability, whether you build with a 150 HP / fixed pitch
prop or a mega power fire breather with a constant speed.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Cathy Lamport) |
Subject: | First Flight of C-GLRV |
I am very pleased to report the first flight of our RV6A, C-GLRV, on
Saturday evening. My husband Dale took to the air about 7:15 p.m. and
never came down for another 50 minutes. I was on the ground with a
fellow builder and his wife and we were equipped with a receiver. Every so
often we would hear comments like "this is wonderful", "I am doing 160
miles an hour and all parameters are great" and more. I can't describe how
happy he was. After he made a perfect landing, he kept using the
word fantastic. He had test flown four other airplanes and said this was
the straightest flying airplane on the first flight. He was ecstatic to
say the least. The airplane performed as advertised.
Our baby is equipped with an Lycoming O360 and a McCauley C/S. We picked up
our first kit on November 11, 1994 (Remembrance Day in Canada) and have
logged approximately 2900 working hours.
It has been a pleasure being the bucking bar assistant, etc. etc. for this
project.
Dale and Cathy Lamport
RV6A - #23861
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Flying out of Smiths Falls Airport
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <TBronson(at)compuserve.com> |
Chet Razer wrote:
minimize
The number of folks that pass this on.
Tim - Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cowling clearance from Exhaust ? |
<< I have a 0-360 with Vetterman Crossover exhaust. On the left side the
Clearance is 1/2 to 5/8" between exhaust and cowling for about 6 to 8 inches.
Should the cowling be protected with some kind of heat shield or is this
sufficient clearance? If so what is best way to do this? >>
I have the same setup.
First of all, try to rotate the exit pipes in their ball joints so that you
have maximized the clearance from the lower cowl in this area. In the most
optimum position, this caused the "turn downs" on the pipe ends to toe in a
little bit. The two Robbins muffs (narrowest eccentric side) now clear either
side of the cowling by about 3/8".
The muffs make good heat shields.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kerrjb <Kerrjb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
<< Even though
it was VFR, there was no horizon and only a small part of the ground was
visible. That made holding a heading very difficult. I changed the antenna
on the GPS and got the signal back. I just love the GPS moving map, but
found
that it was still hard to keep a heading without a horizon. The HSI page on
the GPS is much easier to use to hold heading and track because it is much
more intuitive and easier to interpret. I didn't figure that out until I had
flown nearly 16 hours of hard "IFR" in VFR conditions. >>
Jim,
Thanks for the input on lessons learned. What other visual instruments
sources for holding the airplane level do you have?
Bernie kerr , 6A fuselage, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Least Drag <LeastDrag(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Slow Aircraft Ivoprop (was Sensenich metal prop for O-360 question) |
<< Subj: Re: RV-List: Sensenich metal prop for O-360 question
Date: 98-05-23 09:35:58 EDT
From: unistar(at)mindspring.com (Unistar Computers)
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
(Snip)
Having installed and tested some of the IVO props on a FAST experimental
let me say that rumors of lost blades aside, the IVO prop was the smoothest
running prop I ever saw. I installed the early version which was *NOT*
cockpit adjustable as an alternative to a Vari-Prop and a couple wood props.
(Snip) The IVOs just would *NOT* allow the proven plane to
perform at cruise like any of the other props I tried.
I consider the FP wood prop, FP metal prop, and the hartzell style C/S
props to be the best for higher speed homebuilts, based on my personal
experience.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L >>
After a direct Email with Bob, I just want to add a point of clarification.
The Ivoprop Bob was describing was an Ivoprop Ultralight prop on a 120 hp
engine (An alternate powerplant). What Bob has said about the performance of
the Ivoprop Ultralight prop on a high performance aircraft agrees with what
Ivo says about that prop.
I just don't want to have any extra confusion about the Ivoprop left on the
RV-list.
The Ivoprop Magnum prop is designed for high performance aircraft (200 mph+)
with engines having up to 450 hp.
(Actually, there is an airboat which has a 600+ hp engine using a six bladed
Ivoprop Magnum prop.)
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs - Flight test |
---SCOTT R MCDANIELS wrote:
>
---------- snip -----------
> >>everything seems to point to cs prop and 320 as being a nice,
> >economical, but
> >>still high performance combo. Any other opinions?
> >
> >Yes, I think the 320/CS is a better combo than 360/FP. Given the
> >price
> >differential between a used 320 and a used 360, I also think that
the
> >two
> >alternatives will cost about the same.
> >
> >Best Regards,
> >Dave Barnhart
> >rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
> >Flying
> >
--------- snip ---------
Since you can buy a new O-360 for a little more than
> $1000 more than an O-320 I think the O-320/constant speed combination
> would probably be a little more expensive but would also probably be
> easier to find if you are shopping for used engines.
>
> It would still be my first choice. An RV with the O-320/constant
speed
> has excellent performance, and will probably come very close to
matching
> the performance #s of an RV with an O-360/fixed pitch prop.
---------- snip ----------
> One other consideration that I would like to add (some may disagree
with
> me) is that in real life service I believe the O-320 is a little more
> fuel efficient in performance versus fuel burned than the O-360 is.
> It is often said that "Ok I'll go with the 180 HP and then I can
always
> pull the power back a little and run with the 160 HP guys and burn the
> same fuel". From my experience it doesn't work that way.
---------- snip ----------
> So if I had a choice... I would have a O-320/constant speed instead
of an
> O-360 with a fixed pitch prop.
My 2 cents:
I have an O-320 CS and would not trade it for an O-360 FP. Two
friends that HAD RV-4's had that combination. The O-320 CS would out
speed and climb the O-360 fix pitch.
On an April or May 1998 flight of two RV-6s from CCB to North Las
Vegas and back, an O-320 CS, Carb, Bendix Mags vrs O-360 CS, Fuel
Injection, one Light Speed Electronic ignition, one Bendix mag, 4 in
to One cross over exhaust, and Lycon soup-ed up overhauled engine had
the following results.
Northeast bound ground speed 172 Knots @ 7,500 , Southwest bound
ground speed was 148 knots at 8,500 both aircraft stayed within 1/4
mile except the last 50 Nm. Both aircraft had full fuel on departure
and filled at the same fuel island on return. Hobbs time was 3 hours
round trip. Fuel burn was 26.4 for the 160 O-320 and 26.3 for the 180
O-360 soup-ed up engine. Lycoming performance charts for the two
engines show that a stock O-360 will burn less pounds of fuel per
horsepower produced when operated at the same horsepower output of the
O-320. One flight does not make a valid test but it leads me to
believe that the fuel burn will be the same at the same airspeed or
the O-360 will burn more fuel if ignition, carburation and exhaust are
the same. BTW, my O-320 ran up and back at full throttle and 2,500
RPM. (8.8 GPH)
I few in formation with an O-320 Props Inc wood prop RV-4 from
Westover to CNO last weekend. We both had full fuel when we left.
Will be filling up together next weekend when I get my -6 back. I am
interested in learing what the difference in fuel burn was. The north
bound trip, I burned 2 gallons more but was not full when we departed.
IMHO, if I buy cheap, it is a used O-320 with NEW CS prop. (I am
CHEAP!) If I were to buy NEW everything, (money no object) it would
be O-360 CS. Having flow both CS and fix pitched RV's, I would like
what ever I am flying at the time. I like my RV but I love my Constant
Speed Prop.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David and Beth Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation |
>I just finished installing the firewall insulation/soundproofing I bought
>from George Orndorff some time ago. The sound level in the cockpit is
>significantly lower now.
One other good source for insulation is John McMahon at
http://www.rv6@earthlink.net
I installed one of his kits that came with templates, instructions, etc.
For those interested, drop him a line for more info. I am totally satisfied
with the product.
Dave RV-6A
Flying - Nashville
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pmartin Compaq" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Subject: | Re: Help on IO 360 Offer |
Dear Bill,
Based on what it cost me to buy my IO360A1B6 first run out and what it
is costing me for a quality overhaul and also what a new constant speed
prop costs, I believe it will cost well over 20,000 dollars to duplicate
this package. It this engine setup etc. has a quality overhaul and not a
Dupont major after a prop- strike, $15,000 would be cheap. The single mag
is no problem if you convert to a Lightspeed Electronic ignition.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
80124
Airftrame basically complete, installing innards
----------
> From: William H. Watson <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net>
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Help on IO 360 Offer
> Date: Saturday, May 23, 1998 11:36 PM
>
>
> A guy I know stopped by the hanger and offered to sell his used IO 360
> A1B6D. He says: "what will you offer for it?" I try to act coy and say
> I guess one could be stuffed in an RV 6A and will do some research and
> get back to him.
>
> It has 150 hours since a major overhaul, with about 1400 since new. It
> includes a constant speed prop, governor, spin-on oil filter, Bendix dual
> mag, starter, alternator, etc.
>
> Assuming it is in OK shape (I wouldn't assume anything, but for purposes
> of ballparking the price), what kind of bucks are we looking at?
>
> I plan to look in the archives to see if it will fit in my 6. I thinks
> there are some issues with the induction system plumbing?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Skinning left wing.
>
> William H. Watson
> wmwatson(at)earthlink.net
> H: 650 254-1656
> W: 408 553-4225
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
>I almost agree entirely with Dave (he is a good friend so I'm sure he
>wont mind :) ). Since you can buy a new O-360 for a little more than
>$1000 more than an O-320 I think the O-320/constant speed combination
>would probably be a little more expensive but would also probably be
>easier to find if you are shopping for used engines.
Yup, Scott's a good friend and I don't mind ;-) I was speaking of prices
for USED lycomings, however. When I was looking at used Lycomings, I found
a $4K-5K difference between comperable used 320s and 360s.
>If I were building on a limited budget, but was still determined
>to make the best overall RV that I could I would do the following...
It's also interesting to note that Scott's thinking and mine are pretty
close. (It must have something to do with what the Arizona heat does to
one's brain) I have cover-plates where the gyros would be (I figure that
omitting the gyros and vacuum system saves $1800 and 15 pounds). I have
reserved space for VOR heads and other goodies, but have a basic VFR
Day/Night airplane. I use the RMI uMonitor for engine instrumentation (and
LOVE it, by the way). I *did* spend a little extra on a PM2000 stereo
intercom, Blaupunkt CD player, and Bose headset. For avionics I have a King
KLX135A GPS/COM and a Transponder/Encoder (RMI uEncoder).
Even with the B&C lightweight alternator and starter, the airplane (with
the CS prop) is not as light as I would like it to be (1057 pounds).
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
In a message dated 5/24/98 10:41:58 PM Central Daylight Time, rver(at)caljet.com
writes:
<< Jim
I am seeing Lorans for sale in Trade A Plane for $250-$350. For that
price I am thinking of getting one to use with my handheld as a backup.
Are there any cons to watch out for? Any suggestions on what type of used
Loran to get?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
RV-6a (Finishing $#@# fuel tanks for the 3rd time )
Phoenix, AZ
>>
I think that the II Morrow 618TCA is the best unit available and has the best
database. I looked at them all before I bought mine (before GPS) and paid
$2800. for it. If you can find one for $350. it would be a bargain. The only
down side I see now that I have a good GPS is that it is slower to update (on
the order of several seconds) vs the update every second for the GPS.
Jim Cone
RV-6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: sensenich prop |
MICHAEL wrote:
>
>
> A man came to the airport yesterday and said he has a lot of time
> in an rv-4 another man owns. He said it had a 150 in it with a
> wooden prop (unknown manu.). He said it would do 185 at 8000
> feet, full throttle. He then put the new metal f.p. prop on it
> and the top speed went to 230 mph.
The best and cheapest way to make our airplanes perform better is
to lie about how fast they go. :-) with a 150hp he did not get
that kind of performance increase.
> He said the rpm restriction has been removed from the new models
> of the metal prop. Is this true?
The 2600 rpm limit has not be removed from the O-320 prop, he may have
heard about the prop for the O-360 which it appears at this time will
not have the rpm restriction.
> I tried a 72" pitch and got 2950 rpm's, 76" pitch and got
> 2850 rpm's. He is now making me a 82" pitch prop that is really
> for a 180 horse engine. This is on a 150 hp engine.
You did not say what the length is? And which prop maker? Some of
the prop makers measure each station a little differently. Sensenich
wood props have numbers that are not even close to anyone else.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cowling clearance from Exhaust ? |
>
>I have a 0-360 with Vetterman Crossover exhaust. On the left side the
>Clearance is 1/2 to 5/8" between exhaust and cowling for about 6 to 8 inches.
>Should the cowling be protected with some kind of heat shield or is this
>sufficient clearance? If so what is best way to do this?
>
> Don Pfeiffer
> RV6
> donp(at)scruznet.com
Don,
... if you think it's too close to the glass cowling, the fix is
actually quite easy. Add a layer of "Fiberfrax" (sp?) This is a ceramic
type cloth that just gets added to the inside of the cowling and prevents
any cowl warping or exterior paint blistering (check the undersides of some
RV cowls sometime...:^)
Aircraft $pruce sells it, and it must be good since the composite
folks use it as firewall material. I know of at least one RV3 and one RV6A
that needed this.
... good luck ... Gil (an ounce of prevention) Alexander
tail details
RV6A, #20701, N64GA rsvd. finish kit
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "S. R. Hales" <hales(at)garlic.com> |
San Jose, CA and vicinity listers:
Does anyone have excess clecoes he would like to part with? I think I'll
need at least 200 more to finish my wing. Reply directly please.
Sherm Hales
Finally back to work
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
>
>> What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank
rib
>> before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring?
>
>I used a jigsaw. Not the neatest, most circular hole, but it's
>functional, the right size, and no-one's going to see it anyway.
>
>See http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunny2c.htm for
>other tank-construction tips.
>
>Frank.
Frank,
I used a fly cutter. I clamped the rib to a piece of wood of sufficient
width, centered the cutter and slowed the drill press down as much as
possible. It came out perfect...although it won't be seen anyway. You
can find a suitable fly cutter at a home supply store in the tool
department (I just LOOOVE that place), which will also be used for other
operations (instrument cutouts, lightening holes, etc).
Enjoy! Oh, and use GLOVES when applying tank sealant! Latex,
non-powdered surgical gloves can be found at medical supply houses.
Brian Denk
-8 #379
fuselage on the way.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Subject: | Re: Cowling clearance from Exhaust ? |
><< I have a 0-360 with Vetterman Crossover exhaust. On the left side the
> Clearance is 1/2 to 5/8" between exhaust and cowling for about 6 to 8
inches.
> Should the cowling be protected with some kind of heat shield or is this
> sufficient clearance? If so what is best way to do this? >>
>
>I have the same setup.
>
>First of all, try to rotate the exit pipes in their ball joints so that you
>have maximized the clearance from the lower cowl in this area. In the most
>optimum position, this caused the "turn downs" on the pipe ends to toe in a
>little bit. The two Robbins muffs (narrowest eccentric side) now clear
either
>side of the cowling by about 3/8".
>
>The muffs make good heat shields.
>
>-GV
GV (or others),
I also have this setup. I have noticed that the Robbins muff is not a tight
fit on the exhaust even with the clamps done up maximally. It is possible
to hand rotate the muff with not much force.
Does this mean that under gravity and vibration the muff will gradually
rotate and slide distally? If so what techniques have people used to make
the muff "stick" to the pipe?
Cheers,
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Someone mentioned laying out your rivet spacing and drilling the holes.
Then placing your top skin in place and position it then back drilling into
the skin itself rather than drawing all your lines on the skin then
measuring
your rivet spacing and drilling. I'm working on a RV6A-QB rear top skin.
Anybody try this method?
Mike Comeaux RV6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DAVENDANA1 <DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com> |
Call "The Yard" in Witchita KS. Great prices on Amp T-Heads and also
sheetmetal tools
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DAVENDANA1 <DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
Big question is are they still supporting the database?
________________________________________________________________________________
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by cc.newcastle.edu.au
From: | Carol Richards <crcar(at)cc.newcastle.edu.au> |
Subject: | RV-List re: hole cutting |
The humble jeweler's saw is a quick answer to the cutting of odd shaped or
odd sized holes. This type of saw is similar to a coping saw except the
blades are clamped in position rather than with the use of hooks and lugs.
These are available from hobby shops and jewelry tool suppliers. A wide variety
of blade grades can be had - from the coarsness of coping saw blades to
teeth so fine you need a magnifier to see them. Need a square hole in a
panel for a switch? Forget about countless drill holes and a file. It
can be cut out to nearly the exact size then finished with a fine file.
The blades come in packs of 12 or 144 and (as implied) are easily broken
until you get used to them. To start a cut in the middle of a piece of material,
drill a small hole in the waste section; unclamp one end of the blade; pass
it through the hole and reclamp. Saw the hole and unclamp to extract the blade.
Blades need to be clamped under tension, so before you tighten the clamp
push the tip of the saw frame against a solid surface to 'flex' it slightly,
then clamp and withdraw the pressure. The blade should sound with a 'ping'
when plucked like a harp. If not, try retensioning.
Regards, Sam (RV-6 wings in jig) Newcastle Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | F Mark40 <FMark40(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0-320 Crank AD |
In a message dated 5/23/98 5:31:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
fasching(at)chaffee.net writes:
> BTW a past issue of Sport Aviation had a detailed article on how to
> remove the plug, and reseat a new one, etc. It was a Tony Benglis
> article. I can get more specific if anyone wants details.
It is also in Tony's Engine book.
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Subject: | Re: sensenich prop |
> A man came to the airport yesterday and said he has a lot of time
> in an rv-4 another man owns. He said it had a 150 in it with a
> wooden prop (unknown manu.). He said it would do 185 at 8000
> feet, full throttle. He then put the new metal f.p. prop on it
> and the top speed went to 230 mph.
Michael,
I've got some beach front property in Arizona I'd like to sell you.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Pitot line fitting, Tank attach angle |
Re the length of the inboard end of the pitot line: I ran it to the
side of the fuselage and installed a bulkhead fitting on the fuselage.
I flared the inboard end of the aluminum line and attached it to the
fitting. I will run a plastic tube from the airspeed indicator to the
fuselage fitting.
Re flaring the outboard end of the pitot tube: I pushed the tube out
into the inspection hole and flared it in there. I think you could pull
it through to open air above the skin, but watch that you don't crimp
the tube in the process.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A fuselage in the jig, wings on, landing gear mounts drilled,
looking for things to do before taking the wings off again
-----Original Message-----
2. How long should the pitot line be? Does it need to
extend any
further inboard than the inboard end of the fuel tank?
What fitting
goes on the inboard end of it? The plans only show it as
far as Sta.
44.
3. To flare the pitot tube end, did you push it out the
hole in the
spar? Or maybe through the inspection hole in the skin?
I'd guess (but
haven't tried) that after flaring it won't fit through
the plastic
grommets in the ribs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
When I decided to do my own overhaul all I could think about was saving
money.
I even bragged to Bob Steward about how cheap doing it myself could be. Well
I've
compiled a list of parts and prices. ( I thought some of you would like for
reference )
You'll notice that there isn't much of the old engine left.
QTY Part No. Description Price
4 SL-32000-A20P Millennium Cylinders 3999.84
8 SL78027 Rod Bolts 140.00
8 SL12186 Rod Bolt Nuts 17.92
4 SL69603 Hose 11.45
4 SL-STD-2180 Hose 3.36
1 SL53E19600 Vernatherm Valve 165.62
1 SL61084 Oil Press Spring 5.41
8 SL78290 Hydrolic Plungers 253.46
4 SL13444-1 Piston Pins 152.40
8 SL12892 Thrust Buttons 17.92
8 MM56S Drain Clamps 16.30
8 SL15592-8-28 Intake Clamps 15.06
1 SL61174A Oil Pump Shaft 112.00
1 SL76121 Tach Drive Shaft 101.86
1 AL05K19423-S Oil Pump Impeller Kit 200.27
1 SL69371-1 Major Overhaul Gaskets 149.95
1 SL78258 Oil Pump Housing 162.43
8 SL61662 Rod Bearings 99.28
8 SL68763A Main Bearings 148.88
1qt G-5436-EQ Lycoming Gray Paint 13.84
1 4370 Slick Magneto 485.00
1 4371 Slick Magneto 524.00
1 MA4SPA Fact. Rebuilt Carb. 539.00
1 LW15472 Lycoming Fuel Pump 189.00
1 S-400 High torque Starter 198.00
1 Line Bored, Lapped, Certified Crankcase ECI 780.00
1 Polished, Certified Crank ECI 276.00
1 Rebuit Rockers,Rods,Lifters, gears etc. ECI 429.50
1 AS18840 New Camshaft 581.30
1 Shipping Costs 335.00
TOTAL
$10124.05
Hope this gives you an idea of what you're getting into if you decide
to do your own overhaul.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
I know that this is the RV list but since I have owned a RV4 and still
follow the list I am going to report the first flight of my new airlplane.
On May 21, C-GCAZ took to the air. This is a Harmon Rocket and it is
everything that I could have hoped for. In the air, at RV speeds, if you
were to close your eyes you would swear that you were still flying the RV4.
This is not surprising as both aircraft use the same airfoil. Theaircraft is
very fast but those speeds comes with a price, that price being gph. On
saturday I flew with a flight of four RVs that came to visit me, thanks
guys, and at the same speed as they were flying I used the same fuel per
hour as I did in my RV4 180hp fixed pitch. This was a pleasant surprise, and
confirms that that at a given speed, a certain hp is being used and fuel
used is directly related to hp used. The point being if fuel use gets to be
a problem for me I can just fly slower and still chase most things out of
the sky!
At this point I have 10 hours on the aircraft. I have not explored the
upper limits but it stalls 5mph faster then my RV4 did in all
configurations. Very similiar to a heavy RV6 in that regard.
Why did I build a Harmon Rocket? I wanted to build again and did not want
to build the same thing. I like tandem seating, thus not a RV6. Why the
rocket and not an RV8? When I started the Rocket, seventeen months ago, not
all the kits were available for the 8. As well the performance numbers of
the eight were not that much better then my RV4. I am however probably
going to build again, something different again, who knows!
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: F-675 Top Skin |
mcomeaux wrote:
>
> Someone mentioned laying out your rivet spacing and drilling the holes.
> Then placing your top skin in place and position it then back drilling into
> the skin itself rather than drawing all your lines on the skin then
> measuring
> your rivet spacing and drilling. I'm working on a RV6A-QB rear top skin.
> Anybody try this method?
>
> Mike Comeaux RV6QB
>
Mike - Drill all your holes on pattern into the substructure first and then back
drill the skin. There is adequate room in the tail cone of a RV-6 but could get
a
little tight in an RV-4. I don't know about the RV-8 . Back drilling will ensure
that you don't miss or wander off the stringers & ribs the way it is possible to
do by front drilling through the skin. I found that back drilling is much faster
too as the skin needs placing only once. Get a helper to hold a block of wood
against the skin for you to drill into. This will stop the skin from 'floating
up'
under the drilling pressure and will the helper can install the clecos too. My
entire upper skins were drilled in about 45 minutes.
Have fun building.
Doug Murray - RV-6 - engine compartment
Sunny Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
<F0236224BD23D1118EE400805F14C05D029AD8@admin-nt.iis-intell ect.com>
>>Remember before you get ahead of yourself that you must put the rear plug
>>in *BEFORE* hanging that new expensive C/S prop!!
>>Bob Steward, A&P IA
>
>The new engines from Van's have the back plug in place (as well as the
>front), so for these you need only to remove the front plug if you are
>installing a CSU. My understanding is that if you are converting an engine
>that has been running a fixed pitch you then need to add the rear plug
>behind the oil return bar.
>
> I am prepared to bow to your superior knowledge on this but I think what I
>am saying is correct.
>Leo Davies
If they come that way from Van, Great! But if your engine isnn't from Van
then you'll need to check that the rear plug is installed or you'll be very
unhappy when you first try to chage pitch on the prop. :-(
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
>I am seeing Lorans for sale in Trade A Plane for $250-$350. For that
>price I am thinking of getting one to use with my handheld as a backup.
>Are there any cons to watch out for? Any suggestions on what type of used
>Loran to get?
>
>Regards,
>Tom Velvick
>RV-6a (Finishing $#@# fuel tanks for the 3rd time )
>Phoenix, AZ
Tom,
The main downside of Loran is the constant threat by the Coast Guard to shut
down all Loran chains in the near future. If you are sealing tanks now,
there is a good chance that Loran will be out of service by the time you are
ready to fly, or shortly thereafter.
I agree that you should have a backup to a handheld GPS for navigation if
you plan on long trips with the RV. In the panel, I installed a King KX-125
Nav-Com. This is the small unit with a built in CDI. My primary means of
navigation is a Garmin GPSMAP 195, with the King VOR receiver as a backup/
secondary means. On almost all trip (100 nm+), I have used both the GPS
and VOR's. Sometimes it is just easier to dial in a VOR freq, center the
CDI (just press a button on the KX-125) and fly to a station than it is to
fumble with the GPS and program in a waypoint.
Just my $0.02.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV (Flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MLaboyteau <MLaboyteau(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cowling clearance from Exhaust ? |
<< I have noticed that the Robbins muff is not a tight
fit on the exhaust even with the clamps done up maximally. It is possible
to hand rotate the muff with not much force. >>
I also have the Robbins heat muff on the right side of the Vetterman exhaust.
It will rotate by hand with a little force, but I've been told that once the
exhaust comes up to temp, it expands. If the clamps are too tight, it can
cause cracking. One thing I found with my exhaust, is the slip joint below the
#3 cylinder is blowing exhaust gas up on the underside of the cylinder. I
found exhaust residue on the spark plug, and I can see on my egt probe clamp,
a hot spot where the gas is blowing across it. This joint is very loose. I'm
trying to find a way to try and expand the inner pipe, or shrink the outer one
in order to reduce the clearance, and stop the leak. All of the other slip
joints seem to be sealing up ok during operating conditions. The testing
continues.......
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV s/n 22960
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
>>would rather have a constant speed prop on an 0-320 than a fixed pitch on a
>>0-360?
>One other consideration that I would like to add (some may disagree with
>me) is that in real life service I believe the O-320 is a little more
>fuel efficient in performance versus fuel burned than the O-360 is.
Scott and others: Is it true, that the 0-320 can be certified to burn
autogas, while the 0-360 can not be certified for autogas? If this is the
case, than Scott's and others argument would have one more positive point
for using the 0-320, particularly loocking in to the future of AC fuel
supplies.!
Any comments?
Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO || Ready to jig fuselage||
TW and I very much respect his
opionon.
Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO || Ready to jig fuselage||
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TOMMY E. WALKER" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Aileron gap seals |
The plans show the gap seal butting the rear of the rear spar flang with a
second row of rivets about half way back on the top skin overhang. This
installation would require trimming the flat (top) part of the gap seal
about 1". Seems to me that the gap seal was made to slip under the top skin
between the skin and the top of the rear spar and riveted with the top
skin.This would omit the need for the extra row of rivets. Some one out
there in RV Land please advise!
Thanks,
Tommy
6-A Wings
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F-675 Top Skin |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Someone mentioned laying out your rivet spacing and drilling the
>holes.
>Then placing your top skin in place and position it then back drilling
>into
>the skin itself rather than drawing all your lines on the skin then
>measuring
>your rivet spacing and drilling. I'm working on a RV6A-QB rear top
>skin.
>Anybody try this method?
>
>
>Mike Comeaux RV6QB
>
>
>
I build whole RV-6(A) fuselages this way. Be sure you clamp something to
the bulkheads to make sure they stay in the correct position.
Something that works good for this is use some of the crate plywood and
make a false bulkhead with the center cut out of it that will allow the
installation of some clamps around the perimeter.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: sensenich prop |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>A man came to the airport yesterday and said he has a lot of time
>in an rv-4 another man owns. He said it had a 150 in it with a
>wooden prop (unknown manu.). He said it would do 185 at 8000
>feet, full throttle. He then put the new metal f.p. prop on it
>and the top speed went to 230 mph. He said the rpm restriction
>has been removed from the new models of the metal prop. Is this
>true? Is this speed change possible? Hard for me to believe,
>but, you never know. Michael.
-
Maybe the airplane had never been flown in a straight at the ground
attitude before... seriously, it maybe possible (though I doubt it) for
this speed change if he assumed that the RPM restriction being lifted
(which it hasn't as far as I know) meant that he could now turn 3600 RPM
with the sensenich prop.
If you see this person again, suggest to them that they call Sensenich
and ask about the rpm restriction. I believe Ken published in the last
RVator that Sensenich might look into removing the restriction because
they have some more advanced test equipment that wasn't used in testing
the O-320 prop back when they did all of the work developing it.
>One other question. Is there anything else that would make a
>prop overspeed at wide open throttle other than too little
>pitch? I tried a 72" pitch and got 2950 rpm's, 76" pitch and got
>2850 rpm's. He is now making me a 82" pitch prop that is really
>for a 180 horse engine. This is on a 150 hp engine. And the
>tach has been checked. Climb has been really good, but top speed
>has only been about 185, with the 76" pitch. I suppose if the
>plane was too draggy it would just bog the engine down instead of
>turn too many rpm's. The prop maker doesn't understand it. He
>thinks I have more hp than 150. I guess I will find out, if it
>doesn't turn the bigger prop.
>
>
>
I don't have any ideas for you but I would bet the list would like to
know who this prop maker is?
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cowling clearance from Exhaust ? |
<< I have noticed that the Robbins muff is not a tight
fit on the exhaust even with the clamps done up maximally. It is possible
to hand rotate the muff with not much force.
Does this mean that under gravity and vibration the muff will gradually
rotate and slide distally? If so what techniques have people used to make
the muff "stick" to the pipe? >>
Leo-
I routed the SCAT tubing (the 2" stuff is pretty stiff) inside the engine
mount tubing so that it holds the muffs at the correct clocking for max
clearance. If I rotate them forcibly, they rotate right back.
A trick that you might consider is to tweek the inside radius flange on the
end plates so that they grab tighter on the pipe when to cinch up the hose
clamps.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: First Flight of C-GLRV |
good job and congrates,
its nice to here the female side for once, i'm printing this e-mail as we
speak to show my wife for encouragement through this project
scott reviere
winging it in Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cowling clearance from Exhaust ? |
<< One thing I found with my exhaust, is the slip joint below the
#3 cylinder is blowing exhaust gas up on the underside of the cylinder. I
found exhaust residue on the spark plug, and I can see on my egt probe clamp,
a hot spot where the gas is blowing across it. This joint is very loose. I'm
trying to find a way to try and expand the inner pipe, or shrink the outer
one
in order to reduce the clearance, and stop the leak. >>
Mark-
I have observed the same thing. It's not a big deal, but I think Larry
expands the outer tubes a little too much for the inner tubing OD.
Let us know what you find works for you. I was thinking of taking the inside
pipes to a muffler shop in hopes they could expand the ends just slightly.
This is one of those rainy day projects.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals |
TOMMY E. WALKER wrote:
>
>
> The plans show the gap seal butting the rear of the rear spar flang
> with a
> second row of rivets about half way back on the top skin overhang.
> This
> installation would require trimming the flat (top) part of the gap
> seal
> about 1". Seems to me that the gap seal was made to slip under the top
> skin
> between the skin and the top of the rear spar and riveted with the top
>
> skin.This would omit the need for the extra row of rivets. Some one
> out
> there in RV Land please advise!
>
> Thanks,
> Tommy
> 6-A Wings
> Ridgetop, TN
>
Tommy,
Your first thoughts are correct. You do have to trim about an inch and
install a second row of rivits.
You can avoid pop rivits however if you slightly pull down the forward
edge and back rivit the seal
to the wing skin.
Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage
Cupertino, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Re: Help on IO 360 Offer |
I recently purchased a used IO-360 for $15,000. It has about 120 hrs.
since a Mattituck Overhaul. It came with a new crank, new mags, new fuel
pump, overhauled starter, alternator, prop governor, and fuel servo. It
did not have a prop. I don't think I got a steal, but I feel the price was
fair, and Mattutuck sent me a list of everything they did to it. I think
that who did the overhaul is very important. A used constant speed
Hartzell is worth about $2500 in good shape from a salvage yard.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
Howdy;
I have been following this thread, and must expose my ignorance.
What is a wing leveler? I assume that it is some sort of gyro that will
literally keep your wings level hands off? What does it entail to
install one, and is it best to do while constructing the wing and/or
fuselage? Also, is this something that must be tied into a GPS?
Thanks in advance for enlightening me. From the sound of it, I
would probably be well advised to install one. Who makes them, anyway?
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171 Left Elevator
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: first flight |
>I am however probably
>going to build again, something different again, who knows!
>
>Tom Martin
>
Tom,
I don't have to fly a pink airplane..... A Rocket would look really good in
my hanger........ Just waiting.......
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
In a message dated 5/25/98 12:14:19 AM Central Daylight Time, Kerrjb(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Jim,
Thanks for the input on lessons learned. What other visual instruments
sources for holding the airplane level do you have?
Bernie Kerri, 6A fuselage, SE Fla
>>
I have a full IFR panel with a vacuum attitude indicator and an electric turn
coordinator, which, BTW, will be for sale when I get my Navaid Devices wing
leveler installed. Make me an offer off the list if you are interested. It
should be available in 10 weeks, which is the lead time for the wing leveler.
Jim Cone
RV-6A flying great
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
--part0_896126422_boundary
Leo Davies sent this to me and I thought that the list would be interested
too.
Jim Cone
--part0_896126422_boundary
with SMTP id CAA06925 for ;
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:23:21
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Smoke Haze
Jim,
I was very interested to read your post.
When I was a low time (VFR only) pilot I got caught by smoke haze in
Northern Australia.
There had been big fires several hundred miles from our flight path. There
was no visibility advisory in the forecast. We took off and after an hour
or so noticed that the horizon was "soft". As we flew on the horizon became
more and more difficult to identify and the perimeter of the ground
underneath us became smaller. From 10,000 feet we gradually had the
smallest patch of ground visible underneath us. Then we were IFR with no
horizon at all in any direction.
Fortunately there were two of us (both with less than 100 hours). I flew
the plane while the guy on the right navigated, corrected the DG etc. We
made a slow careful 180 and flew back the way we had come. It took an hour
to regain a horizon by which time I was getting aprehensive that we had
flown into some antipodean version of hades.
I now have my IFR rating and my 6A will have all the gear. I have never
forgotten how insidiously easy it was to transition to IFR flight without
making a conscious decision. I owe much to my ab initio instructor who had
spent more time than is required with me "flying on the clocks".
Cheers,
Leo Davies
--part0_896126422_boundary--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
In a message dated 5/25/98 4:29:16 AM Central Daylight Time,
DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com writes:
Big question is are they still supporting the database?
>>
You have to ask II Morrow. I would think that they do.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cutting hole in tank rib for T-407 |
From: | "William H. Watson" <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> |
I can't resist replying to this one, as no one has mentioned what I use...
I bought the 1/4" Aircraft Taper Pin Router Bit, p/n 933-4 from Avery,
$9.00. Chuck it up in your die grinder and you have an instant,
hand-held, milling machine. It's like a Dremmel on steroids.
Rough cut the shape or the hole, finish to final dimentions in minutes.
So far, I have used it on the tank access hole, tank forward 1/4" angle
flange, landing light hole, and push rod hole in rear wing spar.
Clamp the work well. A short learning curve is needed to avoid chatter.
Second "tip of the day:" get the Cleaveland 10' lightweight hose and
coupler kit, ACIT, $20. Those air tool swivels and heavy hoses (at the
tool level) are a thing of the past. Wish I had this when I started
building.
>
>What are people using to cut the 5-3/8" dia hole in the T-403 tank rib
>before mounting the T-407 tank access reinforcement ring? My hole cutter
>only goes up to 4" and I looked at Lowes and they have hole cutters for
>plumbing that go up to 4-1/2" max.
Bill Watson
RV6A, wings
Reid Hillview, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
As to shutting down Loran, the rest of the world is very much opposed to
shutting down the system and depending on the US to provide GPS coverage for
everyone. Now, they have control of the stations in their parts of the world,
but would loose control if Loran went away. I think that AOPA and other
organizations will prevail in having continuing funding of Loran for some time
in the future.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
In a message dated 5/25/98 3:00:11 PM Central Daylight Time, jorear(at)mari.net
writes:
Howdy;
I have been following this thread, and must expose my ignorance.
What is a wing leveler? I assume that it is some sort of gyro that will
literally keep your wings level hands off? What does it entail to
install one, and is it best to do while constructing the wing and/or
fuselage? Also, is this something that must be tied into a GPS?
Thanks in advance for enlightening me. From the sound of it, I
would probably be well advised to install one. Who makes them, anyway?
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171 Left Elevator
Peshtigo, WI
>>
Navaid Devices makes a wing leveler which is a single axis autopilot that will
keep the wings level and hold a heading or a GPS/Loran/VOR/ILS course. Check
the Yeller Pages for other makers of autopilots. I just ordered mine from
Navaid and they said the lead time was 10 weeks.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
>
>Starting to think about electrical wiring and wondering if anyone has
>advice on crimpers for the wiring terminals. I understand that I will need
>one that does a double crimp and they are expensive.
>
>Thanks.
>George McNutt, Langley B.C.
>6-A, fuel tanks.
>
George,
Talk to Bob at the Aeroelectric Connection (or go to his web page)
and buy one of his crimping tools. This is not an area you want to
cut any corners on. Just think of all those electrical connections
vibrating their way loose over time. Bob's tool is excellent and
provides a solid, professional crimp. I'm sure you can find the tool
elsewhere if you look, but Bob's service is so good I wouldn't waste
my time.
Randy Pflanzer
N417G "Special Angel"
RV-6 Wiring and other Stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PANNAIR <PANNAIR(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
Will--
I stuck my probe in the NACA vent on the right side! I drilled up from the
bottom about an inch back from the opening so you couldn't see it. I made the
hole a few thousandths undersized and added a tad of RTV when I inserted it,
seems very secure. Haven't tested it yet so can't give you any final details.
Dave---
RV6 hoping for Sept.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Damm" <relav(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | FOR SALE: Completed RV-6A |
For Sale - RV-6A
Professionally built, professionally painted, O-360 150 TTSN. KX-155
Nav-com, Garmin 150 GPS, Narco AT-150 transponder, ACK ELT,
electric flaps, electric trim, sliding canopy. Full gyro panel, full
dual controls.
Immaculate condition. Based in Phoenix, AZ - $68,000
Days - 602-732-5995
Eves - 602-899-6809
professionally
Narco AT-150
trim, sliding
Based in Phoenix,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | zeko(at)up.bresnan.net |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
Lothar Klingmuller wrote:
>
>
>
> > I just took my first really long trip in my RV-6A and had a great time. I
> >learned a few things that I thought that I would share. First, VFR conditions
> >do not always mean VFR flying.
>
> > Three miles visibility with haze can
> >make it nearly impossible to fly without IFR instrumentation unless you want
>
> Jim, thanks for sharing your experience.
>
> I just returned from Honduras (4 days late) which has also a big haze
> problems. 4 days no comercial airplanes. I was ready to take a banana boat
> for the return. This trip and comments and experience like yours convince
> me, that as a serious VFR cross country and night VFR flyer, a wing leveler
> is a must.
>
> RV-listers: Jim is a comercial pilot with TW and I very much respect his
> opionon.
>
> Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO || Ready to jig fuselage||
>
I'm new to the list and intend to build an Rv6qb. A friend (Dave}
and I just went on our first long trip in his Mooney. We traveled from
Michigan to L.A. That's right L.A. airspace! The whole trip was
a challenge and the most execiting adventure of my life. Weather,
desert thermals,headwind, mountains, unfamiliar airports,rain,
and lots of cockpit work and flight planning for a low time IFR
pilot (Dave) and his nonlicensed but very knowledgeable copilot(me).
WE took fifteen hours over two days going out and 11 hours in one day
returning. One day rest in between.
Don't be afraid to charge ahead and try it. We found the control
center people helpful and very kind to us rookies. Don,t be afraid
to file a flightplan and learn comm. skills. In fact just do it!
Good judgement, caution, and courage moved us one giant step foward
in our aviation lives. We did pretty good if I say so myself.
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Aaron Gleixner <agleix(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Priming Nutplates |
I am getting ready to install the nutplates for the fuel tanks on my RV8 and was
wondering if all these nutplates (outside the tank) need to be primed. There
are 100+ nutplates for the wing kit and priming them all would take all day.
If they need to be primed, is there an easy way of doing this? Cleaning all
the nutplates, nailing all 100+ nutplates to a board, spraying the primer, turning
over the nutplates, and then renailing and priming the other side seems
extremely difficult. I would welcome any and all suggestions to make this easier.
Thanks in advance.
Aaron Gleixner
RV-8A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
Guys; I just found out a few minutes ago thru the grapevine here at
Independence, Oregon Airpark that the factory RV-8 taildragger crashed (I
think it was in California) and killed the pilot, who was not named, but was
one of the factory guys. That is all I got on it, and I emphasize, this is not
verified as yet. Will let the list know as soon as I find out anything else,
unless someone else knows something more?
Alot of the fellows here at Independence are very close to the Vans bunch, and
that is how it was relayed to me. Will keep in touch.
Von Alexander
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David and Beth Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation |
One other good source for insulation is John McMahon at
rv6(at)earthlink.net
>I installed one of his kits that came with templates, instructions, etc.
>For those interested, drop him a line for more info. I am totally satisfied
>with the product.
>
>Dave RV-6A
>Flying - Nashville
>
Correction to John McMahon's address. You can E-MAIL him at the above
address, this is not a web site.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Cone <JamesCone(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
In a message dated 5/25/98 5:31:37 PM Central Daylight Time, PANNAIR(at)aol.com
writes:
Will--
I stuck my probe in the NACA vent on the right side! I drilled up from the
bottom about an inch back from the opening so you couldn't see it. I made the
hole a few thousandths undersized and added a tad of RTV when I inserted it,
seems very secure. Haven't tested it yet so can't give you any final details.
Dave---
RV6 hoping for Sept.
I put mine there and it works great.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A OAT probe location |
>Will--
>I stuck my probe in the NACA vent on the right side! I drilled up from the
>bottom about an inch back from the opening so you couldn't see it. I made the
>hole a few thousandths undersized and added a tad of RTV when I inserted it,
>seems very secure. Haven't tested it yet so can't give you any final details.
>Dave---
>RV6 hoping for Sept.
>
>
I have mine in the same location, but on the left side of the fuse. It is
extremely accurate when the airplane is parked in the hanger. In flight, it
is useless, it always reads high. If I had to do it over again, I'd
probably mount it in the wing root fairing or out on the wing tip. One item
on my "to do" list is to move this probe.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Limaluk <Limaluk(at)aol.com> |
I have a solid crank O320 160hp. I am interested in changing props and would
like to know if anyone has any experiences with the Ivoprop Magnum, or
Sensenich fixed pitch that they can share, in comparison to a wood prop.
Thanks.
E. Luke/RV-6/20179
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs - Flight test |
>On an April or May 1998 flight of two RV-6s from CCB to North Las
>Vegas and back, an O-320 CS, Carb, Bendix Mags vrs O-360 CS, Fuel
>Injection, one Light Speed Electronic ignition, one Bendix mag, 4 in
>to One cross over exhaust, and Lycon soup-ed up overhauled engine had
>the following results.
>
>Northeast bound ground speed 172 Knots @ 7,500 , Southwest bound
>ground speed was 148 knots at 8,500 both aircraft stayed within 1/4
>mile except the last 50 Nm.
To everyone's replies:
Thanks for the input on this subject. This is helping me come up with some
answers to my own questions as to engine/prop combination that I am going to
go with.
Could I ask that, when speed comparisons are made, the comparisons be made
in terms of true air speed? Ground speeds don't mean a thing to me because I
don't know what kind of a headwind/tailwind component the aircraft is
working with. Higher /lower outside air temps and higher/lower pressures
(in.hg.) need to be taken into account. These factors will correct indicated
air speed into true air speed.
Some airspeed indicators have the correction for TAS built into them. This
makes the calculation very easy.
Thanks for the future info.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)mail.startext.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation |
> One other good source for insulation is John McMahon at
> rv6(at)earthlink.net
Is this insulation "closed cell" and will not absorb water or gasoline?
Whatever insulation is installed, it should be verified that it is
closed cell.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Priming Nutplates |
Not necessary as nut plates are passivated or treated. Even boeing
doesn't prime them
RV4 273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
Subject: | Navaid general ?s |
Listers;
A couple of quick questions regarding the Navaid system as related to an
RV-8:
1. Can the entire system be installed when finishing the fuselage, or are
there parts that must go in the wings (where I am presently working)?
2. I plan on using my Garmin Pilot III as my GPS mounted horizontally on the
glareshield and wired into the plane for power and antenna. How does the
Navaid handheld GPS converter widget obtain the signal from the GPS unit?
3. Is there a comparable S-Tec product that should be considered
alternatively?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
-8, #80500, both wings just jigged
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MAlexan533 <MAlexan533(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Crash (more info) |
Listers; I am trying to find out more about the RV-8 crash in California. A
lister from California has heard the following on KNX1070 radio while driving
in the Mojave Desert today. He stresses the fact that the radio had a lot of
static and he did not get a complete report, so again, lets say that none of
this is completely verified yet. They reported a fatal accident involving an
RV-8 in the area of Ripley(?) California, and the name he believes he heard
mentioned was John Morgan as the pilot. It was possibly a demo flight so there
may be someone else involved, also.
Von Alexander
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Scott and others: Is it true, that the 0-320 can be certified to
>burn
>autogas, while the 0-360 can not be certified for autogas? If this is
>the
>case, than Scott's and others argument would have one more positive
>point
>for using the 0-320, particularly loocking in to the future of AC
>fuel
>supplies.!
>
>Any comments?
>
>
>The 150 HP O-320 is approved for auto fuel, it has a 7.0 to 1 comp.
ratio. The 160 HP O-320 is not approved for auto fuel, It has an 8.5 to
1 comp. ratio.
Though in amateur built aircraft certified or not you can do what you
want. You don't need an auto fuel STC. Some have run auto fuel in the
higher comp. engines using some care.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals |
From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>The plans show the gap seal butting the rear of the rear spar flang
>with a
>second row of rivets about half way back on the top skin overhang.
>This
>installation would require trimming the flat (top) part of the gap
>seal
>about 1". Seems to me that the gap seal was made to slip under the top
>skin
>between the skin and the top of the rear spar and riveted with the top
>skin.This would omit the need for the extra row of rivets. Some one
>out
>there in RV Land please advise!
>
>
>Thanks,
>Tommy
>6-A Wings
>Ridgetop, TN
>
>
>This would probably cause a bump in the skin where it dropped off of the
gap seal. Your right it is made too long. I believe this is necessary
in the mfging process. I suggest you trim it down and install per the
plans.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation |
This insulation does not absorb any liquid of any kind..Used by
military/commerical
aviation.
John McMahon
H.B.Aircraft
615-452-8742
Will Cretsinger wrote:
>
> > One other good source for insulation is John McMahon at
> > rv6(at)earthlink.net
>
> Is this insulation "closed cell" and will not absorb water or gasoline?
> Whatever insulation is installed, it should be verified that it is
> closed cell.
>
> Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
> RV-6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Starting to think about electrical wiring and wondering if anyone has
>advice on crimpers for the wiring terminals. I understand that I will need
>one that does a double crimp and they are expensive.
>
>Thanks.
>George McNutt, Langley B.C.
>6-A, fuel tanks.
Check our website catalog at:
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html>
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)bigskytel.com> |
Subject: | Re: Priming Nutplates |
Hi Aaron, I really don't think the nutplates need to be primed. I did,
however, prime most of mine. I just laid them all flat on a piece of
cardboard and shot them with a couple of light coats of Zinc Chromate out
of a can. Wait 20 minutes, flip them over and hit the other side. Didn't
take long at all.
Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy@bigskytel.com - http://bigskytel.com/~ebundy/
> I am getting ready to install the nutplates for the fuel tanks on my RV8
and was wondering if all these nutplates (outside the tank) need to be
primed. There are 100+ nutplates for the wing kit and priming them all
would take all day. If they need to be primed, is there an easy way of
doing this? Cleaning all the nutplates, nailing all 100+ nutplates to a
board, spraying the primer, turning over the nutplates, and then renailing
and priming the other side seems extremely difficult. I would welcome any
and all suggestions to make this easier. Thanks in advance.
>
> Aaron Gleixner
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | spencer <dspencer(at)kiva.net> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
Lothar Klingmuller wrote:
> Scott and others: Is it true, that the 0-320 can be certified to burn
> autogas, while the 0-360 can not be certified for autogas?
First off, certification is a moot point with experimentals -which is
wonderful.
What makes an engine capable of burning lower octane fuel is compression
ratio basically. The O-360 engines have too high a compression ratio to
use autofuel safely. There are two different pistons available for the
O-320 series -one provides 160 hp and basically the same compression
ratio as the O-360's. The other is a lower ratio piston which makes the
engine 150 hp and able to run on autogas ALL DAY without a whimper
(assuming other factors such as vaporlock don't come into play). I have
heard that low compression pistons are available for the 360's
(developed for third world countries, etc.) but have never actually seen
such. Oh, and by the way, lower compression ratios also mean lower
volumetric efficiency. So you'll have a higher fuel burn/hp with the 150
hp 320 than the 160 version. But it's still MUCH cheaper to run on
autofuel even when using a little more of it.
Scott IN
150 hp -4 hopefully flying again soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
Subject: | Paint scheme on PC - how do you do it? |
I've had a few requests from people about how I did my intended paint scheme
at my website, so I thought I'd post it here for anyone who may be
interested - my apologies if people consider this off topic.
The image involved a bit of trial and error - I'm sure there are better
ways, and it was just a quick hack - I'm no artist nor Photoshop wrangler.
I scanned the heck out of the side profile in Van's info pack (another
alternative would have been to download the DXF file from their website).
Anyway, scanned as line art at 500 dpi into Photoshop (overall width is
about 2500 pixels from memory). Increased colour depth to full RGB. (Scanned
as line art to reduce fill artifacts later on). Did the blue parts as solid
colour fills, then selected each of them in turn using the magic wand and
applied a simple linear gradiant (from blue to white). I filled the canopy
with a light gray, selected that colour using the magic wand and applied a
radial gradient (gray to white). Erased the propellor lines and ground
reference lines. Scanned and cut and paste the eagle into place. When all
ready, reduced the image size to about 20% of it's original size - this
smooths everything out and does rudimentary antialiasing. Saved the result
as a jpeg with minimum compression and put it onto the web server. Most of
the work is done (before the final image resize) with the image zoomed out
at about 50% or 33%. I've talked about Photoshop here, but PaintShop Pro has
the same tricks and tools, and is a good piece of cheap shareware if you
don't have Photoshop.
Hey, when you look at it, it looks just like any other post (just swap
rivets for pixels, prime for resize and alodyne for adobe) *big grin* I
know, I know, I should spend more time in the workshop and and less time in
front of the keyboard...
Chris
____
Chris Hinch Phone: +64-3-477-2995
Animation Research Ltd Fax: +64-3-479-9751
Systems Manager e-mail: chinch(at)arl.co.nz
442 Moray Place, PO Box 5580, Dunedin, New Zealand
RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Crash (more info) |
>Listers; I am trying to find out more about the RV-8 crash in
California. A
>lister from California has heard the following on KNX1070 radio while
driving
>in the Mojave Desert today. He stresses the fact that the radio had a
lot of
>static and he did not get a complete report, so again, lets say that
none of
>this is completely verified yet. They reported a fatal accident
involving an
>RV-8 in the area of Ripley(?) California, and the name he believes he
heard
>mentioned was John Morgan as the pilot. It was possibly a demo flight
so there
>may be someone else involved, also.
>Von Alexander
>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
All,
PLLEEEEEAAASE tell me this isn't true. This kind of news we should never
hear. I'm hoping someone from Van's will post something here quickly. I
have looked at the NTSB site and found no record of any incidents
today..at least as of 2100 hrs, Mountain time zone.
My prayers and best wishes to all...
Brian Denk
-8 #379
wings almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)atheria.europa.com> |
It is with regret that I write this note to inform the group that the yellow
RV-8 was destroyed on Sunday morning, taking John Morgan and an
acquaintance from Blythe California. John had borrowed the aircraft to
travel to Blythe and be with his family for the holiday.
Van was enroute to the area 6 hours after the accident but arrived after the
NTSB had removed the wreckage to Phoenix. Van and Andy Hanna, our
structural engineer are now in Phoenix but will not be able to review the
aircraft remains until Wednesday. They will be helping the NTSB, FAA and
Lycoming determine the cause of the accident.
We would like to keep the rumors to a minimum and intend to inform this
group of any findings as soon as available. We would appreciate people not
speculating as to the cause of the accident.
I just talked to Van and there was at least one witness and his comments
along with the description of the failure as described by John's son-in-law
do not make sense, therefore we will wait until Van returns for the
details. Although the NTSB may take weeks or months to reach a conclusion,
Van should be able to provide some details by the end of the week.
Our thoughts are with John's family and several of us will be out of the
office this week to attend the memorial service for John.
Bill Benedict
General Manager
Van's Aircraft, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jswitzer(at)Primenet.Com (John L. Switzer) |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Crash (more info) |
Von, Brian et. all:
I feel the same as you both, I am absolutely devastated at this news. I
went for a demo ride with John Morgan in N58RV at Sun-N-Fun last month.
Great pilot and a great machine. Hope to learn more soon.
John Switzer
>
>
>
>
>>Listers; I am trying to find out more about the RV-8 crash in
>California. A
>>lister from California has heard the following on KNX1070 radio while
>driving
>>in the Mojave Desert today. He stresses the fact that the radio had a
>lot of
>>static and he did not get a complete report, so again, lets say that
>none of
>>this is completely verified yet. They reported a fatal accident
>involving an
>>RV-8 in the area of Ripley(?) California, and the name he believes he
>heard
>>mentioned was John Morgan as the pilot. It was possibly a demo flight
>so there
>>may be someone else involved, also.
>>Von Alexander
>>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>>
>
>All,
>
>PLLEEEEEAAASE tell me this isn't true. This kind of news we should never
>hear. I'm hoping someone from Van's will post something here quickly. I
>have looked at the NTSB site and found no record of any incidents
>today..at least as of 2100 hrs, Mountain time zone.
>
>My prayers and best wishes to all...
>
>Brian Denk
>-8 #379
>wings almost done
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals |
<19980315.233654.9510.2.SMCDANIELS(at)juno.com>
From: | daviddla(at)Juno.com (Blah ba Blah) |
Tommy, their are a lot of builders in the Bakersfield area who do
sandwich the aileron gap cover between the top wing skin and the rear
spar. I have done it on my RV-6A wings and I like the results. Dave
Ahrens, Bakersfield, CA. Still working on wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Pace <wbpace(at)adnc.com> |
Subject: | RFI: Avery close quarter 8-32 screw dimpler |
Could someone who has used the Avery "Close Quarter 8-32 Screw Dimpler Kit"
please share their opinion of it with me? Does it produce results which
are substantially superior to just dimpling with an AN 509 screw and K1100
nutplate? Before I spend eleven bucks on it, I thought I would ask if it
was worth it. Given about 20 odd holes over two wings, the cost per hole
is over 50 cents - pretty pricy unless I eventually find other uses for it
to help amortize the cost.
While I'm at it, does anyone know the shear and tension strengths of LP 4-3
rivets? I can't find it anywhere. I want to use some BSPQ 5-4 rivets in
some wing ribs in place of the LP 4-3's where I had to drill some oversize
holes. I have the BSPQ numbers.
Thanks.
-----
Bill Pace
wbpace(at)adnc.com
RV-6A Skinning left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Subject: | anti-rotation washers for toggle switches |
Dear List,
Does anyone know of a source for the washers that stop toggle switches
rotating. These are the little guys with a tab on the inside that engages
the slot in the threaded part of the switch mount and a tab on the outside
that bends back at 90 degrees to engage a notch cut in the switch mounting
hole.
The RS components catalogue does not list these but I know they exist
(Van's electric flap switch comes with one installed.
I want the washers for the 15/32 standard toggle switch.
Thanks in advance.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: anti-rotation washers for toggle switches |
Leo ... how many do you need?? Gil A.
At 04:46 PM 5-26-98, you wrote:
>
>Dear List,
>
>Does anyone know of a source for the washers that stop toggle switches
>rotating. These are the little guys with a tab on the inside that engages
>the slot in the threaded part of the switch mount and a tab on the outside
>that bends back at 90 degrees to engage a notch cut in the switch mounting
>hole.
>
>The RS components catalogue does not list these but I know they exist
>(Van's electric flap switch comes with one installed.
>
>I want the washers for the 15/32 standard toggle switch.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Leo Davies
>
>leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>
>
>
>
>
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
I've been following the thread on auto gas usage and thought it was
time to chime in a little. :-)
I've been using auto gas in my airplanes for about twelve years. I used
it in my C-172 for about five years. The rest of the time has been in a
AA-5A Cheetah. Both using low compression engines. I've had no
problems other than mild vapor locks on the ground due to heat and
seasonal changes. Nothing to be concerned about, actually. I plan to
use autogas in my RV-6A when it's done. I'll start out with 100LL to be
sure the breakin is done by the book; but, shortly after that, it will be
weaned to autogas.
As for the higher compression engines, I sent a note to Petersen about
these and learned it was OK to use higher octane fuels in them. I was
looking at the idea of a O360 at that time. I finally decided on a O320.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Doin' the canopy thingy)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs - Flight test |
>
>Could I ask that, when speed comparisons are made, the comparisons be made
>in terms of true air speed? Ground speeds don't mean a thing to me because I
>don't know what kind of a headwind/tailwind component the aircraft is
>working with. Higher /lower outside air temps and higher/lower pressures
>(in.hg.) need to be taken into account. These factors will correct indicated
>air speed into true air speed.
>
>Some airspeed indicators have the correction for TAS built into them. This
>makes the calculation very easy.
However, any IAS or TAS numbers are worthless unless the tester has
determined the position and instrument errors (either separately or
as a total). I work as an engineering test pilot, and I have seen
prototypes from large companies that originally had airspeed errors
in excess of 10 kts at cruise conditions. Of course, after the
testing revealed the error, they would make changes to the static
system to reduce the error to something more reasonable.
So, if you quote IAS or TAS, it would be good to add a note saying
whether or not you have determined the position and instrument errors.
I don't want to get into a discussion as to how to measure the
position error. It is a pretty big subject. There is a pretty good
10 page description in "Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft" by Vaughan
Askue.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (starting wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Priming Nutplates |
For those who would like to use a spray primer on their nutplates, I
would suggest using a zinc phosphate primer, rather than zinc chromate.
Chromates prevent corrosion of aluminium alloys. Zinc phosphate is made
for ferrous metals. You can purchase it at quality automotive paint
supply stores. It's usually right next to the zinc chromate spray cans.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
>I really don't think the nutplates need to be primed. I did,
> however, prime most of mine. I just laid them all flat on a piece of
> cardboard and shot them with a couple of light coats of Zinc Chromate out
> of a can.
> > I am getting ready to install the nutplates for the fuel tanks on my RV8
> and was wondering if all these nutplates (outside the tank) need to be
> primed.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb <RVer273sb(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
About using auto fuel in 0360's... Our sailplane tow plane is STC'd for
auto fuel. We run 100ll every 10th tank for valve lubrication. We have had
verv good luck with the super cub. But keep in mind the cub is a gravity
feed
system. I personally would not think of using auto fuel in my RV4. I know
there are some people out there that have accicents using auto fuel. Is it
worth the difference in price?? A 100ll fuel substitute is under
development
as we speak. Stew RV4 273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SWasher1 <SWasher1(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Getting started |
To the members of this list:
I am an instrument-rated pilot with no building experience other than once
rebuilding the engine in my car. Yet I have been captivated by the beauty and
elegance of the RV-6A, not to mention the sheer volume and quality of the
communication on this list. I would like to ask for your expert opinions on 2
matters that are of concern to me. One: Is it really possible to construct
the major components of this airplane in my single-car garage? And two: What
preparation should I as a builder put myself through before I attempt this
insane task?
Thank you for your responses.
Steve Washer
Windsor, CT
SWasher1(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mack, Don" <DMack(at)tuthill.com> |
My prayers are with them and their families.
Driving to work this AM, I also heard on the news today that my flight
instructors for the Cub I rent went down last night (Morris IL, C09).
One is dead, the other is in critical condition. I will miss Bonnie and
will pray for Eric.
This will be a tough day for everyone.
Don Mack
donmack(at)allways.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 1998 12:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 (N58RV)
It is with regret that I write this note to inform the group that the
yellow
RV-8 was destroyed on Sunday morning, taking John Morgan and an
acquaintance from Blythe California. John had borrowed the aircraft to
travel to Blythe and be with his family for the holiday.
Van was enroute to the area 6 hours after the accident but arrived after
the
NTSB had removed the wreckage to Phoenix. Van and Andy Hanna, our
structural engineer are now in Phoenix but will not be able to review
the
aircraft remains until Wednesday. They will be helping the NTSB, FAA
and
Lycoming determine the cause of the accident.
We would like to keep the rumors to a minimum and intend to inform this
group of any findings as soon as available. We would appreciate people
not
speculating as to the cause of the accident.
I just talked to Van and there was at least one witness and his comments
along with the description of the failure as described by John's
son-in-law
do not make sense, therefore we will wait until Van returns for the
details. Although the NTSB may take weeks or months to reach a
conclusion,
Van should be able to provide some details by the end of the week.
Our thoughts are with John's family and several of us will be out of the
office this week to attend the memorial service for John.
Bill Benedict
General Manager
Van's Aircraft, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Auto Fuel in "High" compression RVs? |
>Scott and others: Is it true, that the 0-320 can be certified to burn
>autogas, while the 0-360 can not be certified for autogas? If this is the
>case, than Scott's and others argument would have one more positive point
>for using the 0-320, particularly loocking in to the future of AC fuel
>supplies.!
> Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO || Ready to jig fuselage||
As pointed out by other listers, these are "experimentals" and one is free
to experiment with fuels as well. Jim Sears added a point which I'd like
to amplify. I own a Grumman Cheetah (AA-5A) which came from the factory
with O-320 low compression engine and I bought the plane with an AutoFuel
STC for 87 Octane minimum. I OH the engine and put an STC'd conversion on
the engine which added the High Compression pistons to what had previously
been a Low Compression engine. This voided my 87 Octane STC, and I
purchased a NEW High Octane STC from the nice folks at Petersen Aviation in
Nebraska ($160=$1/HP). This now makes my Cheetah certified to run 91
Octane Minumum Auto Fuel. Petersen also has 91 Octane STCs for the 180 HP
O-360 family as well.
Why is this RV-List relevant?
This just shows that any O-320 powered and *MOST* O-360 powered RVs can
safely run the correct octane autofuel. The FAA has approved the use of
varying grades of autofuel for the engines most are likely to use in their
RVs. RVs don't need the STC since they are not "certified". This means
that we are not "experimenting" when it comes to Auto Fuel use in *MOST* RVs.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Getting started |
>
>To the members of this list:
>
>I am an instrument-rated pilot with no building experience other than
once
>rebuilding the engine in my car. Yet I have been captivated by the
beauty and
>elegance of the RV-6A, not to mention the sheer volume and quality of
the
>communication on this list. I would like to ask for your expert
opinions on 2
>matters that are of concern to me. One: Is it really possible to
construct
>the major components of this airplane in my single-car garage? And
two: What
>preparation should I as a builder put myself through before I attempt
this
>insane task?
>
>Thank you for your responses.
>
>Steve Washer
>Windsor, CT
>SWasher1(at)aol.com
Steve,
Welcome to our community!
It really doesn't take insanity to get started..but it helps. :)
The primary concern I had before starting my RV-8 was financial mostly
(can I really afford this?), followed by "what will my wife think about
this?".
Well, the financial matter is not such a big deal. You simply find a way
to buy each kit, without much reasoning required...as the Nike ads say,
"Just do it". I had a heart to heart talk with my wife, and was very
honest in my feelings about my flying endeavors..what it would take to
keep me smiling, and what would offer the most performance and safety
for the dollars spent. ANY RV fills the bill nicely. Once I showed her
Van's video from the information package, she was sold! She loves the
beach, and the shot of a formation of two RV's overflying the Pacific
coastline..really got her smiling. This brings to the fore the
importance of family support. You CANNOT do this alone. Involve your
family as much as they can comfortably accomodate, and make sure to
spend quality time with them..no matter how much you want to work on the
plane. It is VITAL that your life not come to a screeching halt to get
it built.
I build in a two car garage sized shop, and feel that it can be done
with less space. It will take some clever maneuvering of the finished
components, but it can..and HAS been done. You could utilize the ceiling
for storage of completed tail kit components and even the wings. This
would completely free up the floor for the fuselage. You'll soon find
out how clever you can be...and you'll come up with novel ideas to solve
space problems. If you can't figure out how to solve the space
situation, there is SOMEONE here on the RV list who has been there and
already come up with a fix for it. We are a very resourceful bunch of
folks...and love to share our victories...big and small.
Please feel free to ask any other questions you may have..either here,
or to me directly. I have pics on my homepage of my project, which may
give you a better perspective.
Best of luck to you!
Brian Denk
RV-8 #379
wings almost done.
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Subject: | Re: FP vs C/S prop on RVs |
MCDANIELS)
>The 150 HP O-320 is approved for auto fuel, it has a 7.0 to 1
comp.
ratio. The 160 HP O-320 is not approved for auto fuel, It has
an 8.5 to
1 comp. ratio.
Though in amateur built aircraft certified or not you can do
what you
want. You don't need an auto fuel STC. Some have run auto fuel
in the
higher comp. engines using some care.
Scott and others:
I believe STC's exist for 160 HP O-320's. The 160 HP Tripacer
is an example. The STC requires premium auto fuel. I heard (rumor) that
a lot of work was done attempting to STC older Mooneys with O-360's,
using premium auto fuel. But they gave up because of vapor lock
problems. Just more information for consideration.
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Priming Nutplates |
If they need to be primed, is there an easy way of
>doing this? Cleaning all the nutplates, nailing all 100+ nutplates to a
>board, spraying the primer, turning over the nutplates, and then renailing
>and priming the other side seems extremely difficult. I would welcome any
>and all suggestions to make this easier. Thanks in advance.
> Aaron Gleixner
This problem comes up over and over. How to prime (or paint) small objects
without blowing them away with the spray gun?
I was taught this trick over 20 years ago doing autobody work........
Put all your small pieces on screen wire and paint "through" them. The air
will go right past the parts and not disturb them. The size of the screen
varies with the size of the piece(s) to be painted. Chicken wire or Rabbit
wire for larger parts, window screen for tiny parts.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)empirenet.com> |
> Guys; I just found out a few minutes ago thru the grapevine
> here at
> Independence, Oregon Airpark that the factory RV-8 taildragger
> crashed (I
> think it was in California)
According to the Riverside County Press-Enterprise, the crash
occurred near Blythe, CA between 6:30 am and 7:15 am Sunday
morning.
> and killed the pilot, who was not named, but was
> one of the factory guys.
Per the same article, the pilot was John Morgan. Also killed was
the passenger, a pilot from the Blythe area.
Our thoughts are with the family and friend, as well as the Van's
organization during this difficult time.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rick_Smith(at)dev.tivoli.com |
If anyone has a set of early style RV-3 wings or wing kits without tanks
for sale, I would be interested in buying a set, actually two sets.
For the curious they will be used for a four-aileron, metal winged biplane.
to reply respond off list to r.smith(at)tivoli.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Keep on building... |
This weekend I took my RV-6 (which now has 210 hours on it) for a short flight
to visit some friends 275 nm away. Wx was great. At 8500', 45 degrees OAT,
2630 rpm, 21.7 in MP, I had a TAS of 168 Kts. Not bad for an O-320 with a
fixed pitched prop. On the way home I had 34 Kt tail wind. It's always nice
to break the 200 Kt GS barrier. I even got in a few rolls before I landed.
With all the discussion of late about FP/CS props, where to put the OAT and
all of the other good questions that we post it all comes down to one final
point.
The RV's are the best damn aircraft in the sky. Build it light and build it
right and you will not be disappointed.
Keep on building.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 (N58RV) |
dear rv'ers
it is a great loss to hear to the of the accident of John Morgan, My sympathy
to his family and friends. If this little bit of information helps, I meet
John for the First time at the Sun-N-Fun this year where I helped Him ready
the rv6 for take off, I asked him many questions, but the one that really
sticks in my mind ( I asked him how he liked his job. his comment was. (" IT
IS THE BEST JOB IN THE WORLD AND I WOULDN'T TRADE POSITIONS WITH ANYONE")
I hope that someday, if My number comes up, I could be doing somthing I
really love doing as much as John did.
god bless
scott reviere
ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie <RV6junkie(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Getting started |
In a message dated 5/26/98 10:15:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, SWasher1(at)aol.com
writes:
> Is it really possible to construct the major components
> of this airplane in my single-car garage? And two: What
> preparation should I as a builder put myself through before I attempt this
> insane task?
Yes, I built my RV-6 in a one car garage while living in a condo.
As a pre RV project I built an RC model Cub. I had someone fly it for me once
and I sold it. Didn't really have an interest in RC aircraft (though they are
cool to watch fly) but I was interested in the building process. This small
project confirmed to me that I had the discipline to follow through with the
project. After all, building an RV is just building a 100 or so small
projects that you bring together in the end.
I would also suggest that you find someone local who is building an RV and
spend an evening helping him/her. This will be a real eye opener for you.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
From: Department of Encouragement
Re: Going up in your airplane
Out this morning for a smooooooth Memorial Day early morning flight. Kind of
a haze layer at 7500 and I am above it in the smooth air, away from traffic,
dogging along, doing lazy to tight 2.5 G turns, feeling the airplane work
for me. Looking for traffic, always, cranking to look out of the top of the
canopy as I turn. And I SEE some...looks like four........BOGIES, ONE
O'CLOCK HIGH! Turning, hard right. Weapons armed. Manuvering to intercept.
Pullpullpullpull, check six. Gotta lock.....wait......they're ours. There,
in a tight turn towards me, 700 feet above, a diamond formation of F-16's,
coming around in a turn, over my canopy, and down to do a fly-by of a parade
somewhere. Yeehaa! I wanted to follow, fly wing with them. Well, THAT was
cool. Glad I was watching for traffic. Not sure they saw me but the slot was
hanging kinda low, probably saw something.
Well, you gotta watch. Lots of traffic to look out for and you have to
assume they don't see you. We are small and go fast. They (most) don't have
the visability we do. I went up today to go somewhere where there wasn't
going to be a lot of holiday traffic to contend with. Wasn't in the air;
there were a LOT of folks out flying today. Didn't expect to see the
military guys as we usually don't see them out this close to the mountains.
Good day to be flying. Glad to have been there.
Your airplane will sort of feel like a jet, it just won't be able to keep up
with some of them. You're gonna love it anyway.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Beyond the Boundries
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
Subject: | Re: Getting started |
I guess I should take this one guys!!! However, I am no expert!!!
I too am an instrument rated pilot and am currently in the throws of
building the best RV vans offers. The 6A of course!
I am building mine in a single car garage. I think the measurements are
14' by 20'. I should also mention that I have the
quickbuild kit, but I built the tail from the normal kit. If you decide
to go this way Vans will take $2000 off of the price of the quickbuild
kit. In the winter time
it was quite a bit cramped in there especially when I was working on the
wing and fuselage at the same time. I think you can do it in a single
car garage, but shop organization will be more important. Hell, there
is a guy that built one in an apartment.
I would recommend you consider building the tail from a normal kit.
This will cost about $1200 with another $1200 in tools. After you have
completed the tail
decide if you want to finish the rest or not. If you are pressed for
time and have a bit more money consider the quickbuild option.
If I can help further just drop me a line.
Gary Fesenbek
Roanoke, VA RV6A, fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SWasher1 [SMTP:SWasher1(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 1998 9:01 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Getting started
>
>
> To the members of this list:
>
> I am an instrument-rated pilot with no building experience other than
> once
> rebuilding the engine in my car. Yet I have been captivated by the
> beauty and
> elegance of the RV-6A, not to mention the sheer volume and quality of
> the
> communication on this list. I would like to ask for your expert
> opinions on 2
> matters that are of concern to me. One: Is it really possible to
> construct
> the major components of this airplane in my single-car garage? And
> two: What
> preparation should I as a builder put myself through before I attempt
> this
> insane task?
>
> Thank you for your responses.
>
> Steve Washer
> Windsor, CT
> SWasher1(at)aol.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Elevator Bearings |
Has anyone come up with a way to put the bolts through the bearings when
attaching the elevators to the HS? I had to stop after an hour of trying
to do one of them...it's pretty frustrating!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)
Mounting Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Rick_Smith(at)dev.tivoli.com wrote:
>
> If anyone has a set of early style RV-3 wings or wing kits without
> tanks
> for sale, I would be interested in buying a set, actually two sets.
> For the curious they will be used for a four-aileron, metal winged
> biplane.
> to reply respond off list to r.smith(at)tivoli.com.
>
> Rick,
Email me directly, I know a guy who has two RV3 kits in his garage.Ed
Cole
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Rick_Smith(at)dev.tivoli.com wrote:
>
> If anyone has a set of early style RV-3 wings or wing kits without
> tanks
> for sale, I would be interested in buying a set, actually two sets.
> For the curious they will be used for a four-aileron, metal winged
> biplane.
> to reply respond off list to r.smith(at)tivoli.com.
>
Rick,
email me directly, I know a guy with two RV3 kits in his garage.
Ed Cole
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BStobbe <coro_01(at)weblabs.com> |
The following is from the local paper:
Air crash kills area farmer, another man
By Sandra Stokley
The Press-Enterprise
RIPLEY
Two men, one a prominent Blythe-area farmer, were killed early Sunday when
the experimental plane they were flying crashed in the Ripley area, south
of Blythe.
Lawrence "Larry" Hull, 55, owner of the Road Runner Ranch in the Palo Verde
Valley and John Morgan Jr., 53, of Hillsboro, Ore., died when the Vans RV-8
crashed near the corner of 22nd Avenue and Neighbours Boulevard, coroner's
investigator Ric Gomes said.
Investigators with the Federal Aviation Administration were trying to
determine the cause of the crash.
FAA spokesman Bruce Nelson described the Vans RV-8 as home-built aircraft
assembled from a kit.
Hull's widow, Janet, said her husband had been contemplating buying a Vans
and was taking a test flight with Morgan Sunday morning when the crash
occurred.
Janet Hull said the men took off from Cyr Aviation at about 6:15 a.m. with
Morgan piloting the plane. She described Morgan as a veteran pilot who had
logged air time in Vietnam and had worked as a crop duster in Blythe.
Most recently, he worked as a salesman for the company that sold the
experimental Vans RV-8, Janet Hull said.
A dispatcher for the California Department of Forestry/Riverside County
Fire Department said someone drove into the Ripley fire station at 7:17
a.m. and reported the crash.
Debris from the crash was reported in a three-mile area.
Hull's death came 23 months after his parents, Dale and Mable Hull, were
killed when a single-engine plane piloted by his brother crashed shortly
after taking off from Big Bear City Airport.
Robert Hull was critically injured in the June 1996 crash..
"Who would have thought two brothers would have been involved in plane
crashes," Janet Hull said. "What are the odds of that?"
Janet Hull said it was her brother-in-law Robert who broke the news to her
Sunday morning that the plane her husband was riding in had gone down.
Janet Hull said her husband, who has been flying since 1977, had been
thinking of purchasing one of the experimental aircraft. The couple already
is part owner of a small plane.
"He thought he would like to build his own plane," she said.
Mr. Hull was born in Covina in Los Angeles County. The Hull family moved to
Blythe to farm in 1948.
After working in Los Angeles for 12 years, Mr. Hull returned to Blythe to
help his parents. In 1992, the farm was divided, with Mr. Hull working one
half and his brother the other.
Mr. Hull grew cotton, alfalfa, cantaloupes, wheat, tomatoes, corn and
onions. He was active in farming matters, and in May 1996 he and other
farmers dumped 200 tons of wheat at a Blythe mall in protest of shipping
delays tied to a government quarantine attributed to a wheat fungus.
Mr. Hull was president of the Palo Verde Irrigation District, a past
president of the California Wheat Growers Association and a member of the
California Tomato Commission.
In addition to his wife and brother, Mr. Hull's survivors include two
children, David Hull, 34, and Natalie Peauroi, 33, and two grandchildren.
Published 5/25/1998
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 (N58RV) |
> It is with regret that I write this note to inform the group that the
yellow
> RV-8 was destroyed on Sunday morning, taking John Morgan and an
> acquaintance from Blythe California.
My condolences to the families and friends of both. Please let the list
know if, and how, they wish any memorial contributions to be made.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Re: Getting started |
Steve,
A single-car garage will be tight. The challenge will be where to store
the completed wings, empanage, etc while working on the fuselage. The
only other preparation is to order the empanage kit and get started.
Steve Soule
RV-6A fuselage in the jig
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
. I would like to ask for your expert opinions on 2
matters that are of concern to me. One: Is it really
possible to construct
the major components of this airplane in my single-car
garage? And two: What
preparation should I as a builder put myself through
before I attempt this
insane task?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Bearings |
Here is the simple trick/tool I used with success.
Get a pair or needle nose pliars and file (I ground on bench grinder) a
samll V groove in the jaws near the tip. This enables one to hold a round
bolt by the shaft easier. Use the needle nose pliars in one hand holding
bolt while you work the elevator into position with the other. Yu quicly
get the hang of it. THere aare other more sophisitcated tools for this
purpose but this was quick and easy and worked.....
>
>Has anyone come up with a way to put the bolts through the bearings when
>attaching the elevators to the HS? I had to stop after an hour of trying
>to do one of them...it's pretty frustrating!
>
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Bearings |
>Has anyone come up with a way to put the bolts through the bearings when
>attaching the elevators to the HS? I had to stop after an hour of trying
>to do one of them...it's pretty frustrating!
>Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Mounting Empennage
Paul,
Using some scrap .032", I made a tool to hold the bolts. The handle can
be bent to suit and is 3 or 4 inches long. To the handle, I riveted another
piece of scrap with a slot cut in it to accept the shank of the bolt. You
then pry the two pieces apart and insert the bolt with the head against the
solid part (the handle) and this set up will hold the bot firmly.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | aeronut <aeronut(at)mci2000.com> |
Subject: | Re: Priming Nutplates |
> If they need to be primed, is there an easy way of
>>doing this>
I cleaned them by dunking them in a coffee can with solvent, drying, then
submerging them in a small amount of primer. Pick them out of the primer
(using a rubber glove) and spread on a clean sheet of polyethylene to dry.
Works fine.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ABAY MAN <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Bearings |
PAUL,
I did mine with a narrow curved needle nose pliers to get the bolts in the
hole. It took my brothers help, and you have to hold your mouth open just
right, once the bolts are through the nut isn't that bad
good luck
scott reviere
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti-rotation washers for toggle switches |
>Does anyone know of a source for the washers that stop toggle switches
>rotating. These are the little guys with a tab on the inside that engages
>the slot in the threaded part of the switch mount and a tab on the outside
>that bends back at 90 degrees to engage a notch cut in the switch mounting
>hole.
Leo,
I've got a 1,000 pieces on order. Should be in later next week.
I'll post and announcment, put the up on the web catalog and
get pricing as soon as they come in. They'll be supplied
standard with all future switch orders from us. Any rv-lister
who has ordered switches from us in the past and would like to
have these washers can receive them for the asking.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Young <gyoung(at)bcm.tmc.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Auto Fuel in "High" compression RVs? |
I don't think such a blanket statement is warranted. We ARE experimenting.
Others' experience may raise your confidence level somewhat, but it's
still an experiment. Check the archives for all the variations on oil temp
problems on similar or "identical" installations and translate that to all
the variations in fuel systems. Look at Petersen Aviation's web page <
http://www.webworksltd.com/WebPub/PetersenAviation/PetersenAviation.html >
for their list of airframes with STCs and other useful info. The list has
a mix of airframes but many are low performance, low powered which the RVs
are not. Also note some of the ones that FAILED: Navion, Musketeer,...,
and my 7KCAB Citabria - that is a low compression 150hp IO-320. Granted
it's injected, but it's also high wing and its systems are pretty simple
and straightforward. The conclusion I draw from all this is that there are
too many variables and therefore every installation should be thoroughly
tested.
My choice of an IO-360 will probably preclude my use of auto fuel but I
plan to test it anyway.
Be safe, test.
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) fuselage - controls and panel
> Why is this RV-List relevant?
>
> This just shows that any O-320 powered and *MOST* O-360 powered RVs can
> safely run the correct octane autofuel. The FAA has approved the use of
> varying grades of autofuel for the engines most are likely to use in
their
> RVs. RVs don't need the STC since they are not "certified". This means
> that we are not "experimenting" when it comes to Auto Fuel use in *MOST*
RVs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog <Vanremog(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Bearings |
<< Has anyone come up with a way to put the bolts through the bearings when
attaching the elevators to the HS? >>
I used a hemostat (forceps), modified by bending the tips slightly, to hold
the bolt shank. There are some folks who have built little grabbers out of
sheet stock that grasp the head of the bolt, but the forceps worked for me.
They are available at Hobby stores and medical supply outlets.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Bearings |
>>Has anyone come up with a way to put the bolts through the bearings when
attaching the elevators to the HS? I had to stop after an hour of trying
to do one of them...it's pretty frustrating!<<
I just held the bolt mid-shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers and nudged
it in while holding the elevator with the other hand and wiggling it
slightly to make sure it stayed lined up. I had the HS and elevators resting
on two plastic sawhorses. It couldn't have taken over 5 minutes for all four
bolts.
Give it a try, you can do it... be the bolt!
Randy Lervold
-8, #80500, mid-wings
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John C. Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Bearings |
Paul,
Try a pair of those surgeon's pliers sold at fishing supply stores.
They are very handy to hold and place bolts in tight places.
If they don't work, email me for some sailor phrases/words that have
come in handy during this project.
Best regards,
John
RV6A, SW Georgia, installing engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
Subject: | Re: Auto Fuel in "High" compression RVs? |
Dumb questions from a guy who has never flown anything but club aircraft
fueled with 100LL.
1) How do you get auto gas to the airport and into your plane safely? My
brother-in-law who owns a backhoe has a nice 50 gal aux tank with
pump/nozzle that he carries around in the back of his pickup to fuel his
backhoe (diesel). I thought about one of these, but its placarded against
gasoline. Is this just legalese to protect the manufacturer?
2) Where do you buy auto gas to ensure that you are getting gasoline and
not some blend (alcohol or??) which may or may not work properly?
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Bearings |
Paul, know what you mean. I purchased some "L"s of solid aluminum rod - a 6"
lenght of 3/16 aluminum with a 90 degree bend (one leg of the rod you hold) which
you stick the other leg of the rod into one side of the bearing/fitting and part
way through the bearing (to aline the holes). You then have a better change to
put the bolt into the alined holes on the otherside. Once the bolt is partway
in,
you can then withdraw the aluminum rod and continue to push the bolt thru. I
believe I got them from Avery. They certainly helped, but it was still a
frustating business with dropping of the bolts/nuts and washers.
Ed
RV-6A N494BW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 accident |
My condolances to anyone connected with the two reported people killed
in the RV-8 accident. John had just flown 2 demonstration flights with
my wife and I on the 11th. We subsequently put a deposit on a -8 QB kit
and I just recieved my confirmation Saturday.
John was a very cordial guy and really treated us nice in giving us a
tour of the factory and conducting our flights. I'm sure that he will
be missed by his family and at Vans. He told us that he had built his
own RV-4 years ago and had used it to commute to the deep south from
SoCal to follow crop dusting jobs. He went to work for Vans in the
recent past. His son is in Naval flight training in TX and John had
visited him in the 8A on his way back from Sun-N-Fun last month.
I'm sure that many of you have had contact with John also as he was one
of the technical advisors that you ask all of your questions to.
This is not the first time I've lost someone I know in an aviation
accident and those old rotten feelings in the gut have re-appeared. Now
is a good time to re-read the poem "High Flight". My wife just asked me
if I sitll want to build our airplane. Of course I do. Flight is a
special experience that not everyone is capable of having. Part of an
aviators bond with others so blessed is the gumption to keep going, even
after tragedy.
So long John, I'll meet you in that big holding pattern is the sky
someday.
Keep an eye on me until then.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Young <gyoung(at)bcm.tmc.edu> |
Subject: | Elevator Bearings |
Paul,
I got a 3/16 steel rod (59 cents) from the hardware store and made some
alignment pins from it. They are shaped somewhat like a question mark (?)
creating a handle for the pin. I also saw some from Avery's (I think) that
were two piece with a threaded handle that could be removed to check
control deflection. I found that once everything was properly aligned the
regular bolts were easy to install to check the deflection.
BTW I deferred this until last weekend when I mounted the empenage to the
fuselage (what a great feeling!). That also meant I deferred the
fiberglass work and lead balancing. I don't know that it was a big benefit
but I got some comfort being able to check assembled clearances, alignment
and control deflections before I drilled the elevator horns. I did not
originally defer it for this reason but it's an option.
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) fuselage - moving controls and making airplane noises
>
> Has anyone come up with a way to put the bolts through the bearings when
> attaching the elevators to the HS? I had to stop after an hour of trying
> to do one of them...it's pretty frustrating!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Canopy modification |
Listers:
I am just starting my sliding canopy and am very interested in any
modifications that will make it taller over the seating area.
In talking with various people, including Van, I have been told
that you can push the currently supplied canopy back from it's
normal position and thus gain an extra inch or so of height over
the seating area. I would like to do this but have some questions:
1) Has anyone on the list done this? If so, please contact me
directly via email. I would really appreciate being able to
communicate directly with you.
2) Does anyone have any knowledge of the modifications required?
I believe the roll-over structure (Wd-643) stays the same as
well as the front member of the sliding frame. Do I have to
replace/rebend the center bar of the sliding frame? How about
the rear cross-member? Or do you raise the whole frame up
somehow? Since the slope of the canopy over the fixed roll-bar
remains the same, I don't see how raising the whole frame would
work, but maybe there is something I'm not seeing.
Any leads on how to make this modification would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Doug Medema RV-6A #21140, working on sliding canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
Subject: | Re: X-country flying |
>I have a full IFR panel with a vacuum attitude indicator and an electric turn
>coordinator, which, BTW, will be for sale when I get my Navaid Devices wing
>leveler installed. Make me an offer off the list if you are interested. It
>should be available in 10 weeks, which is the lead time for the wing leveler.
>
>Jim Cone
>RV-6A flying great
Jim,
I am considering the Navaid Devices autopilot, but you, apparently, see no
problem replacing your electric turn and bank. Is it not required to have a
TSO'd turn and bank as a back up. This is one of the reasons I have been
looking at the S-tec system 20/30. I have also heard or read here that the
Navaid is not as accurate a turn and bank.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary kozinski <KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com> |
It was stated "A single car garage would be tight".
Boy, what discouraging words! Some of us don't have that luxury.
My dad and I have been building my -6 in the basement of his house. We took over
the family room to build the wings. The fuselage was done on the work side
with access to the bulk head leading outdoors. Wall to wall clearance in the
work area was about six feet. Considering the jig width was four feet that gave
us only two feet maximum to move around. We'd slide the jig from wall to
wall to work on each side. Fuselage maximum clearance was in the order of 44
inches and we had 46 inches of clearance leading to the outside! With her end
to end clearance of 14 feet that gave us about two extra feet on each end to
move around in an 18 foot area. We've since moved the fuselage outside under
an overhang and do our work there now.
I'm not ashamed to state I've been working on the -6 for 12 years now with what
I call slow BUT STEADY progress. I moved 100 NM away a year ago and am now doing
some long distance building. I fly to "the factory" with my 172 reminding
myself this 1 hour flight will soon take only 35 minutes. I've never built
anything like this before and simply did some up front research, bought the empennage
and the initial tools that Van recommended and had at it. I don't regret
anything I've done nor the time its taking. Its been a fantastic learning
project leading to many new friends too. It will fly before the year 2000!
Gary on Long Island, Plane in MA, finishing 0-360 c/s RV-6 20038
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
Subject: | Re: F-675 Top Skin |
<35696DE7.6536A54B(at)telusplanet.net>
>Mike - Drill all your holes on pattern into the substructure first
Doug:
How do I hold the skeliton togetrher while backdrilling the skins from
the stucture? Steve suggested driving rivets in the cross pieces & drill
out later, then backdrilling them to the skin.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Shaftela <Shaftela(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Priming Nutplate |
I just got done priming a bunch of nutplates for my rv-4 wing. This is what I
did- got a block of wood, drilled a about 40 3/8" holes in it, set the
nutplates in the holes, and sprayed the mating surface of them with 2 or 3
coats of primer. I then turned them over and placed the now primed flat
surface of the nutplates down on a clean surface(don't put them on a primered
surface, they will stick) and sprayed the other side of them. I takes longer
to write about it than to do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert D. Binzer" <robinzer(at)seidata.com> |
Has anyone checked out the Mar-Hyde Self Etching Primer for use instead
of Zinc Chromate or Zinc-Oxide? Can any one offer yeah or nay on this?
Bob Binzer
RV-6A tailfeathers
Madison, Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | sburch(at)norfolk.infi.net (stan burchett) |
Subject: | RV6A project FOR SALE |
The empennage kit is completed. The wing kit is halfway (1
wing and the spar, .. made @ NASA). The fuselage is about 1/5 completed
(bulkheads done and ready for jigging). Fus videos & jig included. Some
tools avail.
Death of partner and loss of my medical forcing sale. Asking $8600.
I'm in the pattern at PHF (newportNews/Williamsburg Intl) VA.
sburch(at)norfolk.infi.net or 121 Myers Rd.,Yorktown,VA ..757-867-7244.
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Shaftela <Shaftela(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Getting started |
I'm in the final stretch of assembling my -4 wings in my 2 car garage, but I
have only the use of one stall, as my wife uses the other for her car. It's
definately do-able. This is my first airplane, although I've done a bit a
woodworking before. The biggest factor in your success is motivation. I wanted
to build an airplane so bad my teeth hurt. It's really a satisfying
experience, sometimes it's hard to believe I'm actually doing it. If you think
you want to do it, go visit someone in your area who is building, I'm sure
they would be happy to show you their project. Brian- Redmond, WA
May 19, 1998 - May 26, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-es