RV-Archive.digest.vol-ew
June 16, 1998 - June 22, 1998
>building an RV-6A, the thing that is concerning me is will i fit into the
>thing and be able to close the canopy without any problems?
>I have read through the archives and seen a few people ask similar
>questions and the standard reply was you can lower the height of the seat
>when your building. This however isnt an option for me as i live in
>Australia and kit planes must be built *exactly* to the specs in the kit
>with no deviations at all. (there are ways around this, but dealing with
>C.A.S.A and getting aprovals is like shi#*@ing gravel through a funnel)
>Basically i need to know that i will fit into the beast and remain
>comfortable when i'm up in the air.
>
>Secondly, are there any builders in far Northern New South wales on the
>list that I could get in touch with to talk to?
>
>cheers
>Todd
Todd,
Van's own Ken Scott is a very big guy (no offense Ken). He is 6'3" also and
has broad shoulders as well. He owns an RV6, which he flies comfortably. I
don't know what, if any, modifications he has done to it. FWIW....
Regards,
>
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Banks, OR
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurancetypes="text/plain,text/html"; |
>
>Now to my question. Have any of you had dealings with Skysmith, especially
>claims? I am very tempted to change, since the coverage sounds much better
(I feel
>that I have almost no liability protection with Avemco), and the price is
almost
>20%
>lower.
I had my insurance with Skysmith when I wrecked the red racer. There were
some "issues" involved in that accident that could have made it more
interesting, but I had no trouble, they paid and sold me the salvage for a
fair price.
Having said that if there had been a lawsuit I am sure it would have been a
different issue.
Your comments about your insurance policy is correct, if you buy a 1
million/ 100,000
each person you will have to have 10 people claim against you to get your
policy limits. That mean that if you fly a single seat airplane for all
intents and purposes you have a $100,000 policy. If 1 people claim against
you there is not enough insurance in the world.
I think Scott knows his business and has an excellent RV package and my
experience with his agency has been good. Even after my wreck they still
wrote my policy on my -4 when I bought it. Most companies would not do
that..
The airplane insurance business is really getting tough as evidenced by
these lousy policy limits that are availible now.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurancetypes |
> From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
>
> a quickbuild kit is simply an aircraft that is not flying.
As I understand it, aircraft "parts" are NOT an aircraft. Only when an
airworthiness certificate has been issued by the FAA (in the U.S. anyway),
is an assembly of aircraft parts an aircraft.
Rob (RV-6Q, Socal).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV Fly-in July 11 at 2G3 |
Does anyone on the list have more info on the RV fly-in at
Connellsville?
I was born and raised in Fayette County and learned to fly at 2G3.
Would love to bring my flying RV-6 from Los Angeles to the airport I
learn to fly at.
The following was taken from the latest RVATOR.
July 11: Lemont Furnace, PA. RV fly-in at Connellsville Airport
FMI Bill Flaherty 412 864-3396
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
I'm about to start on the sliding canopy for my 6A - I hear it's a lot of
fun :-) I'm planning to buy the special plexi drill bits from Avery & I
could use some wisdom on sizes to order. The manual only talks about #40
initial holes later enlarged to #30.
Are these the only two sizes needed?
The smallest in the Avery catalog is 1/8", so do I need to grind a a #40 or
is a standard #40 OK.
Looking for an 80+ deg summer in Wisconsin!
Jim (Cone), I've been studying your canopy plans & find them extremely
helpful. Sorry to hear about the loss of your 6A. Seeing it at OSH last
year was one of the deciding factors in getting us started with our 6A.
Regards,
Chris Good,
RV-6AQ
West Bend, WI.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6(A) Brake pedels (was) advice |
> So....I have two questions:
>
> 1. How much brake pedel movement is there, after the brakes are bled, to command
full brake?
> 2. Has anyone who is flying done what I've described, and how much did you angle
them forward? Was it too much, or too little, or just right?
>
Laird,
I did the exact same thing, setting up the pedals on my workbench. Same questions
too. I decided to wait until I could sit in the plane and sort it out then.
Well, the other night my wife and I finally sat in the fuselage for the first
time and I played with the rudder rudder and brake pedal positions and still
have no ideal where they should go, or at what angle. So I have left well
enough alone and will do my next position test when I get the rudder all hooked
up. Then I will most likely have to wait until I get the brakes installed. Then
again when I get the seat cushions done. Don't rush into drilling the brake
pedals, wait until you are sure you will like their position.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A Installing the manual flaps
Pine Junction, CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
What is the correct way to attach the HS404's to the HS606 spar webs. It
appears that the HS404's are to be notched to fit over & between the HS810 &
HS814. This I am basing on an exploded view on the plans. Is this a recent
change? I have seen other 8 Horiz stabs with the HS404's on top of the
HS810 & HS814 without the notch and not attached to the spar web, but simply
riveted through the HS810 & HS814 with 2 rivets.
Mark Steffensen
8-A Horizontal Stab
Wings on Order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <RandyLervold(at)csi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Hori Stab |
>>What is the correct way to attach the HS404's to the HS606 spar webs. It
appears that the HS404's are to be notched to fit over & between the HS810 &
HS814. This I am basing on an exploded view on the plans. Is this a recent
change? I have seen other 8 Horiz stabs with the HS404's on top of the
HS810 & HS814 without the notch and not attached to the spar web, but simply
riveted through the HS810 & HS814 with 2 rivets.<<
I mounted mine on top of the HS810 and HS814 as the plans indicate. I know
some others have notched it, but it seems like that would put it closer to
the spar and thus cause the profile of the HS skin to taper sooner toward
the tip... not good. When in doubt, go with the plans.
Randy Lervold
-8, #80500, wings
Vancouver, WA
Home Wing - Van's Air Force
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines/props |
<< Subj: Re: RV-List: Alternative engines/props
Date: 98-06-16 21:21:02 EDT
From: willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills)
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
I saw a beautiful composite fixed pitch prop on an RV-4 at Bakersfield a
week and a half ago. Unfortunately, I didnt get much info as the pilot was
departing. He did say that the prop boosted cruise significantly without
any negative effects on climb compared to the original prop (Pacesetter). I
didnt get any numbers from him though. The prop was made by Lightspeed
(the ignition guy) and was a solid hub prop, no individual blades, bolts,
mounting lugs, etc.. The owner said its the smoothest prop he's ever flown
behind. Anyone know anything more?
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil >>
Hi All,
You had to have been talking to John Lynch. He has a very nice RV-4.
John said that he gained 15 mph with the prop.
LightSpeed (Klaus Savier) has been making props for EZ's for some time now.
Klaus said that if there is enough demand, he would make the prop for RV's.
Klaus thought they would be around $2,200 each.
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Safety wire sizes |
This order to Avery is getting more & more complicated! I can't find any
reference for safety wire sizing in different locations on a 6A. Avery's
list .020, .032 & .041. Should I just buy all three? How do I decide what
size to use where? Is it just the largest wire that will fit through the
available hole?
The only references that I could find in the archives mentioned .032 for
securing the trim tab hinge pin.
Regards,
Chris Good.
RV-6AQ
West Bend, WI.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6(A) Brake pedels (was) advice |
>1. How much brake pedel movement is there, after the brakes are bled, to
command full brake?
>Laird Owens (SoCal)
>RV-6 22923
Laird,
On my six with the floor mounted rudder pedals, I found that there was
very, very little movement until the brakes took hold. I don't know if
Van's has changed brake cylinders but I suspect, not. The brake set up was
quite different from what we're used to on spam cans. All of the factory
airplanes I have owned or flown seem to have a lot of slack before the
brakes are activated. Not so on the RV-6. I had to drill new mounting
holes for the brake cylinders so the rudder pedals tipped away at the top so
I wouldn't be riding the brakes all of the time. The accidental brake
application problem was greater with greater delfelction of the rudder
pedals. An interesting situation in cross winds.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines/props |
>
>I saw a beautiful composite fixed pitch prop on an RV-4 at Bakersfield a
>week and a half ago. Unfortunately, I didnt get much info as the pilot was
>departing. He did say that the prop boosted cruise significantly without
>any negative effects on climb compared to the original prop (Pacesetter). I
>didnt get any numbers from him though. The prop was made by Lightspeed
>(the ignition guy) and was a solid hub prop, no individual blades, bolts,
>mounting lugs, etc.. The owner said its the smoothest prop he's ever flown
>behind. Anyone know anything more?
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 fuse
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
I think Lightspeed makes the composite prop for the Bercut kit. I remember
reading that the prop they use doesn't allow the engine to get anywhere near
full RPM until it's on the takeoff roll, but that it was the only one they
would allow to be used on the Bercut.
Terry Watson
RV 8 #80729
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder & Elevator leading edges |
39-40,43-44,46-47,50-58
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I did roll the edges, but was not entirely
>satisfied, so
>I actually blended the edge with the curve using body filler. Sanded
>smooth, put some glaze putty on it, and primed it...now it looks like
>a
>fiberglass leading edge.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
>Mounting empennage
>
>
Paul,
I don't mean to slam you in any way with this post, and I would have sent
it to you directly but I would just like to be sure that new builders on
the list don't get started off on the wrong track.
So please don't be offended. I know that you are a new builder and
probably haven't really considered the whole scope of what you have just
done on your rudder, but here goes.
You may now have a rudder leading edge that looks like fiberglass... but
at what cost.
If you look on finished RV's, you will find that this seam is almost
impossible to see.
If someone does look at yours now they will just wonder what you are
hiding.
It may look like fiberglass rudder L.E. but it's still a metal rudder,
for a metal airplane.
This metal airplane will have 16 or so skin lap joints on the fuselage
alone. We don't need to be ashamed to have them show.
We can be proud of the fact that we smart enough to stay away from the
itchy smelly stuff as much as possible because of what kit we chose to
build :) .
The last thing I personally would want to do is give me more fiberglass
work on an RV project to do.
Aside from the extra work you gave yourself is the extra unneeded weight
that you added to the airplane (in just about the worst place that you
could add it)
I know it probably isn't a significant amount, but it does add up.
every extra pound that you build in "Will" effect the "Total
Performance" of your airplane.
Bottom line... Don't be to concerned about having done this on your
rudder, but think through the true value in anything that you do that can
add weight or construction time to your project.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6(A) Brake pedels (was) advice |
<< And did you notice in the most recent RVator that Van's is saying the
"short spring" issue is actually a result of people over-compressing
the brake cylinders with no fluid in the system? I guess we need to
be careful about this. I haven't checked my springs yet but I'll bet
I did this. >>
This is quite likely true and it never occurred to me until I saw it in the
RVAtor. I bet that while we were all sitting there making airplane noises and
playing with the rudder pedals, we were sacking out the original springs with
no fluid in the system. Sheesh!
It's certainly possible,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines/props |
>
>I saw a beautiful composite fixed pitch prop on an RV-4 at Bakersfield a
>week and a half ago. Unfortunately, I didnt get much info as the pilot was
>departing. He did say that the prop boosted cruise significantly without
>any negative effects on climb compared to the original prop (Pacesetter). I
>didnt get any numbers from him though. The prop was made by Lightspeed
>(the ignition guy) and was a solid hub prop, no individual blades, bolts,
>mounting lugs, etc.. The owner said its the smoothest prop he's ever flown
>behind. Anyone know anything more?
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 fuse
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
I think Lightspeed makes the composite prop for the Bercut kit. I remember
reading that the prop they use doesn't allow the engine to get anywhere near
full RPM until it's on the takeoff roll, but that it was the only one they
would allow to be used on the Bercut.
Terry Watson
RV 8 #80729
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder & Elevator leading edges |
39-40,43-44,46-47,50-58
| From: | smcdaniels(at)juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I did roll the edges, but was not entirely
>satisfied, so
>I actually blended the edge with the curve using body filler. Sanded
>smooth, put some glaze putty on it, and primed it...now it looks like
>a
>fiberglass leading edge.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
>Mounting empennage
>
>
Paul,
I don't mean to slam you in any way with this post, and I would have sent
it to you directly but I would just like to be sure that new builders on
the list don't get started off on the wrong track.
So please don't be offended. I know that you are a new builder and
probably haven't really considered the whole scope of what you have just
done on your rudder, but here goes.
You may now have a rudder leading edge that looks like fiberglass... but
at what cost.
If you look on finished RV's, you will find that this seam is almost
impossible to see.
If someone does look at yours now they will just wonder what you are
hiding.
It may look like fiberglass rudder L.E. but it's still a metal rudder,
for a metal airplane.
This metal airplane will have 16 or so skin lap joints on the fuselage
alone. We don't need to be ashamed to have them show.
We can be proud of the fact that we smart enough to stay away from the
itchy smelly stuff as much as possible because of what kit we chose to
build :) .
The last thing I personally would want to do is give me more fiberglass
work on an RV project to do.
Aside from the extra work you gave yourself is the extra unneeded weight
that you added to the airplane (in just about the worst place that you
could add it)
I know it probably isn't a significant amount, but it does add up.
every extra pound that you build in "Will" effect the "Total
Performance" of your airplane.
Bottom line... Don't be to concerned about having done this on your
rudder, but think through the true value in anything that you do that can
add weight or construction time to your project.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
All Listers, ZERO-INDIA-TWO (0I2)
Saturday July 11th, (9 to 3) is the 2nd. annual All Day "Fly-In / Cruise-In."
At the Brazil-Clay Co. Airport. Located in west central Indiana, on the St.
Louis Sectional.
There will be Trophies and Plaque Awards for many aircraft classes. There will
be awards for the different RV "Types" 3, 4, 6, 6A, 8, 8A. Last year,
Chris May's beautiful RV-4 won the trophy. This year, several more RV's are
expected. Including a Harmon Rocket. This is rain or shine. Food, cheap-fuel,
family fun, prizes and "Aircraft" displays (Full-scale and RC-models). For
more info, Email or call 812-
442-0624. Last year, 42 Custom/Show Cars and 46 Show Planes attended. Plan
now to attend ! Gary Rodgers @ the Brazil-Clay Co. Airport and the Terre
Haute Chapter # 83 EAA PS. Chris May also won a case of AeroShell w100 for
the "Farthest Distance Flown". See you on the eleventh. Gary and RV-3 N5AJ
slider
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder & Elevator leading edges- extra work |
<< If you look on finished RV's, you will find that this seam is almost
impossible to see.
snip
Bottom line... Don't be to concerned about having done this on your
rudder, but think through the true value in anything that you do that can
add weight or construction time to your project.
Scott McDaniels >>
True enough! FWIW- in building the empennage for the Rocket, we don't even
rivet that joint together! The plans show to cut the metal back to about where
the bend is on the supplied parts, re-bend the 1/4" flange, and then roll the
LE. The two flanges are close, but do not touch, and are not riveted (same as
my Ol' Cessna 140). I'll bet you can't tell the difference by looking at the
a/c on the flight line.
You've added a nice touch (but it is v hard to see after assy), and a little
weight. It's your a/c, tho...
I suppose the extra weight will help offset that 700SHP turbine you have
planned for the fan...;-)
Check six!
Mark
all vacuum hose, and #8 tinnerman c/s washers (with the #6
screws) to hold the windshield on. This method allows a bit more float/less
stress on the plexi.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Gravity inhibited engine |
I would like to get my Lycoming engine off the floor and make it more
portable. An engine stand seems to be the answer, but without an engine mount
the attachment looks a little difficult. Can anyone give me some ideas?
Yeah, I know, go buy an engine mount you cheapskate! But any other ideas?
Joel (ab320flyer(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Moore" <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines/props |
From: Terrence C. Watson
>I think Lightspeed makes the composite prop for the Bercut kit. I remember
>reading that the prop they use doesn't allow the engine to get anywhere
near
>full RPM until it's on the takeoff roll, but that it was the only one they
>would allow to be used on the Bercut.
Perhaps I haven't fully understood what you have said, or.....
perhaps you do not fully understand that no fixed pitch prop
will (or should) allow the engine to reach rated RPM until the
aircraft has reached maximum straight and level airspeed.
The C-172 in which I give flight instruction, has an O-320 Lyc.
that is rated at 150 hp @ 2700 RPM. During a normal take-
off, the RPM will never exceed 2250 RPM and at a normal
climb speed of 70-80 KTS, one never sees more than 2350 RPM.
Only after accelerating in level flight to about 115 KTS will the
engine reach 2700 RPM and a full 150 HP.
If the engine were to reach full rated RPM static or during the
takeoff roll, it would overspeed seriously at full throttle in level
flight.
Bob Moore
ATP CFI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder & Elevator leading edges |
> Aside from the extra work you gave yourself is the extra unneeded weight
> that you added to the airplane (in just about the worst place that you
> could add it)
> I know it probably isn't a significant amount, but it does add up.
> every extra pound that you build in "Will" effect the "Total
> Performance" of your airplane.
>
> Bottom line... Don't be to concerned about having done this on your
> rudder, but think through the true value in anything that you do that can
> add weight or construction time to your project.
Also if you are using a wood prop every pound of weight in the tailplane ,
rudder area is going to lose you 3 to 4 pounds of baggage carrying ability
due to CG problems.
Brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gravity inhibited engine |
>I would like to get my Lycoming engine off the floor and make it more
>portable. An engine stand seems to be the answer, but without an engine
mount
>the attachment looks a little difficult. Can anyone give me some ideas?
>Yeah, I know, go buy an engine mount you cheapskate! But any other ideas?
>Joel (ab320flyer(at)aol.com)
The engine stand(s) which shops use attaches to the crank flange just like
the prop would. I bought one which is made from 3 pieces of 1.5" x 1.5" x
1/8" steel angle for the legs, a 3/8" x 7" dia. plate with holes for crank
pilot and bolts machined in it (looks flame or plasma cut, not tooled), and
3 pieces of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle used for straps between legs about 4" off
floor.
One could build this cheaply if one has access to welding equipment.
I paid $140 including nice particle board spacer "cushion" to prevent crank
from touching the stand. Came nicely painted bright *YELLOW* with
provision for wheels (available for extra $$). It will ship UPS. Bought
it from one of the Aircraft Tool places in Michigan. (ATS?)
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder & Elevator leading edges |
I did think about the weight that this would add, but due to the nature of
my perfectionism, I could not sleep knowing what it looked like. It was
not pretty. I had several problems of the joint puckering up and having
gaps. I just could not get the bend right....maybe down the road if there
is a problem with the weight, I will order new rudder parts and rebuild it.
Thank you very much for your constructive critism, though. I am in no way
offended by it. I find it very helpful and informative, and I look forward
to hearing more of your RV wisdom!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Mounting Empennage
>Paul,
>I don't mean to slam you in any way with this post, and I would have sent
>it to you directly but I would just like to be sure that new builders on
>the list don't get started off on the wrong track.
>So please don't be offended. I know that you are a new builder and
>probably haven't really considered the whole scope of what you have just
>done on your rudder, but here goes.
>
>You may now have a rudder leading edge that looks like fiberglass... but
>at what cost.
>
>If you look on finished RV's, you will find that this seam is almost
>impossible to see.
>
>If someone does look at yours now they will just wonder what you are
>hiding.
>
>It may look like fiberglass rudder L.E. but it's still a metal rudder,
>for a metal airplane.
>
>This metal airplane will have 16 or so skin lap joints on the fuselage
>alone. We don't need to be ashamed to have them show.
>We can be proud of the fact that we smart enough to stay away from the
>itchy smelly stuff as much as possible because of what kit we chose to
>build :) .
>
>The last thing I personally would want to do is give me more fiberglass
>work on an RV project to do.
>
>Aside from the extra work you gave yourself is the extra unneeded weight
>that you added to the airplane (in just about the worst place that you
>could add it)
>I know it probably isn't a significant amount, but it does add up.
>every extra pound that you build in "Will" effect the "Total
>Performance" of your airplane.
>
>Bottom line... Don't be to concerned about having done this on your
>rudder, but think through the true value in anything that you do that can
>add weight or construction time to your project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Hori Stab |
>>What is the correct way to attach the HS404's to the HS606 spar webs. It
appears that the HS404's are to be notched to fit over & between the HS810
&
HS814. This I am basing on an exploded view on the plans. Is this a recent
change? I have seen other 8 Horiz stabs with the HS404's on top of the
HS810 & HS814 without the notch and not attached to the spar web, but
simply
riveted through the HS810 & HS814 with 2 rivets.<<
I mounted mine on top of the HS810 and HS814 as the plans indicate. I know
some others have notched it, but it seems like that would put it closer to
the spar and thus cause the profile of the HS skin to taper sooner toward
the tip... not good. When in doubt, go with the plans.
Randy Lervold
This is not a recent change, and the plans do not show the 404s mounted on
the 810s/814s. I had the same question on my 6A HS - the configuration is
identical. I called Van and was directed to the drawings which show that
the HS-404 should be notched to fit over the HS-610 and 614 so that it is
riveted to the spar, not to the 810/814. You can do it otherwise, but you
have to force the HS-404 into a position which is 1/8 in or so higher than
intended. Your concern over the taper is actually reversed. I doubt that
it makes a big difference, though, and if it is already riveted on the
810/814, I would leave it. You are not going to significantly alter the
shape of the skin on the leading edge of the HS.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
-6A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
| Subject: | O-360 A4K in a -6A |
The builders manual says that this engine will not fit in a RV without
extensive mods, but it doesn't say why and something tells me that it has
already been done. Any takers?
Chris Browne
Atlanta
-6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gravity inhibited engine |
I mounted my engine on top of an old piece of furniture, I think you would
call it a night stand, with drawers, I put casters on the bottom and drilled
the top and put hardware style bolts through it and mounted the engine right
to the top. Not very elegant, but I have an engine stand with two drawers
that is also portable, and the piece of furniture cost me about $25 in an
auction in 1978!
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
<< I would like to get my Lycoming engine off the floor and make it more
portable. An engine stand seems to be the answer, but without an engine
mount
the attachment looks a little difficult. Can anyone give me some ideas?
Yeah, I know, go buy an engine mount you cheapskate! But any other ideas?
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire sizes |
Generaly speaking, 020 for light things such as elect connectors
032 for engine safeties, brakes ect
040 for props
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines/props |
-->The C-172 in which I give flight instruction, has an O-320 Lyc.
>that is rated at 150 hp @ 2700 RPM. During a normal take-
>off, the RPM will never exceed 2250 RPM and at a normal
>climb speed of 70-80 KTS, one never sees more than 2350 RPM.
>Only after accelerating in level flight to about 115 KTS will the
>engine reach 2700 RPM and a full 150 HP.
>
>If the engine were to reach full rated RPM static or during the
>takeoff roll, it would overspeed seriously at full throttle in level
>flight.
>
>Bob Moore
>ATP CFI
>
Bob,
Now you made me go find what I was trying to remember. Let me quote the
paragraph from the December 91 issue of Sport Avaition, in an article about
the Bercut by Jack Cox: I believe this entire paragraph is a quote from
Dave Ronneberg, creator of the Bercut:
The Klaus Savier prop - "Klaus' prop is huge! It looks like too much prop,
and on the test flight, sure enough, we got only 2022 static rpm. On the
takeoff roll, however, we were seeing 2150 at 40 mph, 2250 at 70 and 2,300
at lift-off. I could sustain 2300 at 110-115 mph indicated and the climb
was really a kick. Much better than I expected at 2300 rpm. At 4,000 ft.
and full throttle, it will turn 2900 rpm. It's really amazing. When Klaus
is determining the size and shape of a prop, he factors in the drag profile
of the airframe, and we've obviously got a low drag airframe. One of the
factors that allows the prop to perform as it does is the fact that it is so
stiff. You can grab an aluminum prop at its tip and bend it and twist it,
but you can't do either with this one. It is stiff! Over three times
stiffer than any prop Klaus has ever made, he tells me. A friend of mine
had a piece of a carbon cowl go through his Klaus Savier prop on takeoff,
and although the cowl was chopped to pieces, there wasn't a nick in the
prop!"
Elsewhere in the article, it says that the power was supplied by a "Dick
Demars modified 10-360B1A ... that produces 205 hp at 2,700 rpm.
Terry
+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gravity inhibited engine |
> I would like to get my Lycoming engine off the floor and make it more
Why not just make a dolly with a chunk of plywood and 4 casters ? Make up a
small wooden support from 2x4s to support and set the engine on, attach a
small rope to dolly and it moves around easily. I hope this is not too
simplistic and that what I read is your need for a bit of convenience. If
you want to lift the engine to above floor height to test how it sits in
front of your project, then I misread the post.....I found the above dolly
to allow me to push the thing around with one hand when I needed more floor
space......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Gravity inhibited engine |
> I would like to get my Lycoming engine off the floor and make it more
> portable.
Why, exactly? Do you want to be able to work on it or are you just
concerned with being able to move it around? If it's the latter, you
can just put some casters on the bottom of the crate (assuming it's in
a crate) and it will roll around easily.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: large pilot needs advice |
> > I blocked my pedals up by 1" which was plenty for my size 13s even
> > with 3/4" thick insulation on the floor.
>
> Hmmm....your ankles are more flexible than mine . With a bare floor and
> the pedals raised 1.5", I am BARELY able to slip my feet underneath (shoes
> on).
Hmmm HMMMM. I guess we are talking at cross-purposes here. I never
even considered trying to set it up so I could put my feet UNDER the
pedals. I guess if I were larger (I'm 6') I might be more concerned
with being able to stretch my legs out, but my main goal was to
optimize the height and distance for best rudder and brake action,
i.e. the brakes should be easy to apply but not too easy to push
unintentionally, and there should be good leverage on the rudders with
heels on the floor.
I flew a bunch in Ken Scott's plane before it was smashed, and it had
the floor mounted rudder pedals (no chance of stretching your legs out
there!) I found it was virtually impossible to keep off the brakes
with my feet in a "normal" position on the rudder pedals, i.e. with
the balls of my feet on the bottom bar. I eventually developed a
technique of keeping just my toes on the bottom bar while on landing
approach, then just after landing, I would "jump" my feet up to where
I could apply the brakes. Sounds scary but it worked a lot better
(lots less tire wear on landing!) after I got in the habit of doing
that. The above experience was foremost in my mind while I was
installing my own rudder pedals.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
OK this is relevant to RV and future fliers and is only a partial waste of
bandwidth.....When you must at some point, go out cold turkey and get in
and fly that thing by yourself, you will find that this is a different
bird. But she treats you kindly (like a nice chick should) unless you are a
real hammerhead and don't show some respect...(Some thought and
gentleness). I found I could get off the ground OK, but each landing was a
new one. Just because the last one was great, the next would be a bouncer.
I found I was getting a pronounced right wing drop upon liftoff until
friends expressed the same thing at first and realized we were holding in
too much rudder for too long........What I do now is feed in throttle
gradually, allows me to keep centerline, lift the tail, (feels good and
this short a** pilot can see better, just a hint of back stick and up we
go.
I lessen my right pedal pressure and she flies out level. ..........For
landing, I was coming in a little too hot until I got full flap on and let
the airspeed get down lower and then flair low and let her settle.
Sometimes I add a bit of throttle to flow the air over the tail if I am
sinking too fast. It is nice to hear a chirp when you do it right. Very
nice to slide back the hood, sit up on the seatback, watch the others come
in, feel grin muscles locked in place, all shut down and waiting to enjoy
some Bravo Sierra !..................... No, I ain't a good flier and I'm
not even qualified to tell you how to do it. But if I can do it and love
this airplane and have fun while I'm at it, then so can you.
My wife, who does not like little airplanes and has not step foot in one
since we were single, has now flown in RV, 3 times now and loves it.. What
did I do ???...............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hill <hill(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Hori Stab |
I notched it as shown on the plans.... Moe's RV-8 web page has a good
picture of what this should look like at
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe/HS.htm
Chris Hill
RV8 closing HS
>
>What is the correct way to attach the HS404's to the HS606 spar webs. It
>appears that the HS404's are to be notched to fit over & between the HS810 &
>HS814. This I am basing on an exploded view on the plans. Is this a recent
>change? I have seen other 8 Horiz stabs with the HS404's on top of the
>HS810 & HS814 without the notch and not attached to the spar web, but simply
>riveted through the HS810 & HS814 with 2 rivets.
>
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8-A Horizontal Stab
>Wings on Order
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Boone, Iowa Flyin |
My wife wants to know if there is anything (shopping, etc,) to do other
than hang out with RV types at the Boone flyin this saturday
chet razer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)bigskytel.com> |
I know others have had this trouble, but many people do not. There must be
*something* different in the way it's done. I have around 15lbs of
pressure below 100mph to pull the shortened flap handle. I originally
installed the handle full length, and decided that shortening it would
allow the handle to lie completely flat on the floor, and not protrude up
above the seats the way the stock length does. After shortening, I made a
new notched bracket (that holds the arm position) with new notches to allow
the handle to go all the way to the floor. I believe this is also helpful
because full flaps now doesn't bring the handle up near as high, and gives
more leverage.
Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy@bigskytel.com - http://www.bigskytel.com/~ebundy/
> Way back in the Northumbrian period, I saw a note in the RV newsletter
> about what a great idea it was to cut the manual flap handle down 2.5 ".
I
> did this and so did some others. BIG mistake. Just as I was getting the
> first flights in my new bird and needed all resources, I found it
> impossible to get the second notch on for landing. Consequently, I got
> pretty used to 1 notch landings. I know what also caused me to shorten
the
> handle was my mistaken impression that it was too long when viewed lying
> stowed when the floor pans were not in place. I did want to use full
flap,
> if for no other reason than it was meant to be there for our use, so I
took
> it all out, put back the 2.5 " PLUS another 1.5",
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurancetypes |
Yes, but the way the policy is written, it is treated like an aircraft. You carry
liability and static hull coverage, but no flying coverage and no passenger
liability. If you have any specific questions, you can email me personally and
I
will answer them the best I can.
Moe Colontonio
Rob Acker wrote:
> > From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
> >
> > a quickbuild kit is simply an aircraft that is not flying.
>
> As I understand it, aircraft "parts" are NOT an aircraft. Only when an
> airworthiness certificate has been issued by the FAA (in the U.S. anyway),
> is an assembly of aircraft parts an aircraft.
>
> Rob (RV-6Q, Socal).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A Hori Stab |
Take a look at the HS section of my web page Mark, I have a picture of this
assembly there. You are supposed to notch the rib, and put two rivets through the
center.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Mark Steffensen wrote:
>
> What is the correct way to attach the HS404's to the HS606 spar webs. It
> appears that the HS404's are to be notched to fit over & between the HS810 &
> HS814. This I am basing on an exploded view on the plans. Is this a recent
> change? I have seen other 8 Horiz stabs with the HS404's on top of the
> HS810 & HS814 without the notch and not attached to the spar web, but simply
> riveted through the HS810 & HS814 with 2 rivets.
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8-A Horizontal Stab
> Wings on Order
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James S. Clare" <clare2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gravity inhibited engine |
Hi Joel
In his book Firewall Forward, page 44, Tony Bingelis has a drawing and
description of how to build a portable engine stand out of scrap lumber.
I built one in half a day and it worked great for me for several years.
Same chapter has great instructions on preserving an engine if you're
not going to use yours for awhile.
Jim Clare
RV-4 N430BZ
Cornelius, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Bocox" <rbocox(at)ryko.com> |
| Subject: | Computer views of aircraft |
I am presently working on making a Windows 95 program to automatically calculate/store
the weight and balance information for aircraft. This program would allow
you to pick your aircraft type, e.g.. low wing taildragger, high wing tricycle
gear, etc, and then you can input the data. The program would then allow
printing of the weight and balance sheet, and envelope chart.
I am looking for good side views in .bmp, .gif, or .tif formats which I could use
for the aircraft types. The pictures need to be straight on side views, so
that datum lines, CG location can be marked over them. If any one has any of
these, I would appreciate them being E-mailed to me. I will send free copies
of the software to you when I am done. I really plan on distributing the software
as shareware.
NOTE: Please do not send any copyrighted files. I will not use them, as this
is unethical.
Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ]
RV-6A N872RF in Des Moines area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire sizes |
<< Avery's
list .020, .032 & .041. Should I just buy all three? How do I decide what
size to use where? Is it just the largest wire that will fit through the
available hole? >>
Chris,
I dont have my AC43.13 handy and its been awhile since I went to
A&P school, but if memory serves me right you want the diameter of the wire to
be at least 75% the diameter of the safety hole. For what you are doing .032
is used the most. You might have a couple of aplications for .040 such as the
prop bolts but thats about it. I would by the .032 and the .040 this stuff is
always handy to have around. I dont recall ever using any .020 on the RV.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
I've been trying to access the Panel Planner software website without success,
have they changed their address, or folded, or what?
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
RV-8 Wings on Wait
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner |
> I've been trying to access the Panel Planner software website without
success, have they changed their address, or folded, or what?
www.panelplanner.com
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hawkins <jah(at)Adobe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Computer views of aircraft |
You can get side views from Van's web page. He has
a 3 view drawing of each model aircraft.
-Jeff
>
>I am presently working on making a Windows 95 program to automatically calculate/store
the weight and balance information for aircraft. This program would
allow you to pick your aircraft type, e.g.. low wing taildragger, high wing tricycle
gear, etc, and then you can input the data. The program would then allow
printing of the weight and balance sheet, and envelope chart.
>
>I am looking for good side views in .bmp, .gif, or .tif formats which I could
use for the aircraft types. The pictures need to be straight on side views, so
that datum lines, CG location can be marked over them. If any one has any of
these, I would appreciate them being E-mailed to me. I will send free copies
of the software to you when I am done. I really plan on distributing the software
as shareware.
>
>NOTE: Please do not send any copyrighted files. I will not use them, as this
is unethical.
>
>Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ]
>RV-6A N872RF in Des Moines area.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Gravity inhibited engine |
>I would like to get my Lycoming engine off the floor and make it more
>portable. An engine stand seems to be the answer, but without an
I built a strong table from 2x's & cut a hole for the 'splinded'
crankshaft on the E225-8. For flange cranks drill holes in the top bolt
the engine down. You end up working with it vertically. Makes a nice
SMALL work bench later.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Trusty" <dtrusty(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 builder in Grand Prairie,TX/Auto Gas Problems |
I lost the E-mail address for the RV-6 builder in Grand Prairie who is
interested in auto gas vapor return line. I have Van's article in RVator.
Sorry I lost your address.
Dennis Trusty dtrusty(at)iname.com
Granbury,TX
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurancetypes="text/plain,text/html"; |
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 16, 1998 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurancetypes="text/plain,text/html";
>
>(snipped)
>Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>> >Are there any Aircraft Insurance brokers on the list that want to write
a
>> >policy on my RV-4? Respond privately, if possible.
>> >Louis I. Willig
>> Scott Smith of SkySmith Intl. is an Insurance broker with a RV program,
it
>> http://www.skysmith.com/
>> is their website, tell him I sent you.
>>
>> Tailwinds,
>> Doug Rozendaal
>> dougr(at)petroblend.com
>
>I just got a quote from Mr. Smith, & I have both an observation and a
request for
>information.
>I hope the info about Avemco will help someone out there who, like me,
thought
>they were the only game in town & didn't pay much attention to the policy
when
>purchased.
>
>If someone has experience with Skysmith/AIG, I'd really like to hear about
it.
>
>Charlie England
>RV-4 N4375J
>601-879-9596
>
Another interesting feature of the Avmenco policy: They will pay you UP TO
$15 per hour for repairs you make yourself. I defy anyone to get a written
statement from Avmenco on how much they will ACTUALLY pay per hour. I'm
sure many happy policy holders have had equitable settlements, but as my
lawyer always says, if it isn't in writing, you can't count on it. I have
Avmenco now but I'm shopping!
Dennis Persyk 6A canopy
Barrington, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
http://www.panelplanner.com is active; I just punched into it; no
problems. try again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | HS814 and rib clearance |
On the HS814, the plans indicate that I should trim the prefabricated "tabs"
to clear the inboard tip ribs. Could someone please clarify this for me?
Does this happen after the HS front spar is all together, or should I cut
the ends off before I assemble the front spar? How much comes off? Photos at
one other RV8 website appear to show almost no "tab" left at all on the
814 - it looks like simply a big 810?
Thanks in advance
____
Chris Hinch
Dunedin, New Zealand, assembling HS forward spar
RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire sizes |
One place you should probably use .040 safety wire is on the oil
dipstick tube. Since this tube is plastic and just has a little tab
with a hole in it for the safety wire, using thicker wire will reduce
the likelihood of the wire pulling through the plastic. (credit Scott
McDaniels with this tip).
Randall Henderson (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
info requested
<< Way back in the Northumbrian period, I saw a note in the RV newsletter
about what a great idea it was to cut the manual flap handle down 2.5 ". I
did this and so did some others. BIG mistake. >>
I also shortened my flap handle. I don't recall exactly how much I removed,
but it was enough to let the handle lay flat and parallel with the floor.
Initially, I had 20 & 40 degree settings. My 40 actually measured 43 degrees.
Setting the flaps to 20 degrees below 100 IAS wasn't any problem, but going to
full 40 ( ok, 43) revealed a big difference. 90 mph IAS was ok, but the first
time I tried going from 20 to 40 while letting the airspeed build to 100 while
turning base to final and not watching the airspeed took a lot of pull to
achieve. So, I added notches for 10 and 30 degrees. I found that using 30
degrees feels better anyway. Using full 40 degrees really requires a steep
approach angle or using more power to drag it across the threshold, in my
opinion. So now I have the option, if I'm a little high on final, I'll go
ahead and use the 40 setting, otherwise 30 degrees does just fine and is much
easier to get than the full 40.
Mark LaBoyteaux
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
N106RV Flying
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
As pilots, we can learn from analyzing accidents because most accidents are
the result of pilot actions. As designers and builders, the analysis of
accidents helps us design and build planes that are stronger and more
dependable because accidents frequently provide failure data from
circumstances in which we can not test our aircraft. When the metals
analysis information from this tragedy is available, knowledgeable people
will be able to make informed conclusions. Meanwhile, reading the NTSB
(http://www.ntsb.gov/Aviation/LAX/98A171.htmlm) preliminary report, I have
two hypotheses and a few questions. (Hypotheses are conjectures for
discussion and testing; they help us organize our thoughts, they are not
conclusions.)
Roll Hypothesis: The wing failed as the pilot went into a left-hand roll.
I think it was the pilot's habit to do a left roll as a part of a
demonstration. The engine changes in such a maneuver might be what the
witness describes as surging, although the timing of the sounds seems off
and description suggests a previous maneuver produced the sound.
Q1) If spars were broken on a previous flight, leaving the wing supported
only by the skin, wouldn't skin deformities result that would be very
obvious on preflight? Can spars be broken by hard landings, repeated
stress, or extreme stress, and not show obvious signs of permanent skin
deformity?
Q2) Could the negative change in load on the left wing in a roll--in the
wing's weaker direction--cause a left wing with previously broken or
weakened spar to give way? What are the unequal G loads produced on the
wings by a normal left roll?
Q3) Could a roll at cruise speed or higher, (perhaps done by a person
inexperienced with the plane and its control forces) including a sudden
pull up such as entering a snap-roll-like maneuver, produce G loads in the
range of +9 G?
Dive Hypothesis: The spars broke and one wing failed due to 9+ G load from
pull up in a high-speed dive. In this hypothesis, the "engine surging"
resulted from a maneuver--a loop, a spin, a roll, or a dive--that the
witness did not see. (One can imagine very unusual circumstances that
could lead to a power dive other than an intentional maneuver. For
example, if the passenger's belt was loose and he fell or moved forward
against the stick. This could result in a power-on dive.) Since the sound
took some 8 seconds to get to the witness, he apparently started looking a
considerable time after this hypothesized maneuver. If the aircraft was
allowed to get into a 150+ K dive, a sudden pull out could produce 9+ Gs.
Q4) From the report of the witness, the plane was in level flight for some
time after this hypothesized maneuver. Is it typical for an overstressed
spar to fail 30 to 60 seconds after the stress?
Q5) Since the right spar was also broken, is it surprising that the right
wing did not also fold? In what circumstances would a spar break while the
wing remains connected by the skin? What portion of the strength of the
wing is due to the skin?
Q6) A mile and a half seems a very long way to hear the breaking of a wing.
He should have seen the break and spin 8 seconds before he heard the break,
which is relatively consistent with his report. Witness reports of weather
related breakups often are described as "explosions" and very loud noises.
Perhaps aluminum breakage is particularly suited to producing a loud noise
that carries very far in relatively quite air.
This tragic incident reminds me why building a RV is a good idea. I am
confident a detailed analysis and conclusions will be available for
examination and discussion. I also know there are hundreds of kits and
planes out there being examined, in a very large number of ways, for any
possible weakness. I recall Van saying something like "An airplane is a
collection of compromises." The more these compromises are examined, the
better off we are.
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
Is anyone on this list planning on going to the EAA Northwest Fly-In from July
8 thru July 12? I am curious, since I live two miles away from this location,
and would like to meet some of the folks that I converse with and correspond
with.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglas Filler |
> >I have been trying to locate a product called Awl Fair (?), made by US Paint
> >& Lacquer. It is supposed to be a very good easy to use epoxy type filler,
> >mixed 1:1.
Any opinions on pros/cons of using this or any other filler versus
polyester filler on the epoxy cowl and other epoxy parts? A
knowledgable source recommended a polyester "creamy bondo" type
filler, which he said is ok to use on epoxy even though it's
polyester, but I am still debating.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
I would like to start with an I'm sorry for repeating this message, but it
is the only way to answer them.
>Roll Hypothesis: The wing failed as the pilot went into a left-hand roll.
>I think it was the pilot's habit to do a left roll as a part of a
>demonstration. The engine changes in such a maneuver might be what the
>witness describes as surging, although the timing of the sounds seems off
>and description suggests a previous maneuver produced the sound.
>
The aircraft was NOT rolling, as the NTSB report mentioned level flight and
similar failures between spars.
>Q1) If spars were broken on a previous flight, leaving the wing supported
>only by the skin, wouldn't skin deformities result that would be very
>obvious on preflight? Can spars be broken by hard landings, repeated
>stress, or extreme stress, and not show obvious signs of permanent skin
>deformity?
>
A1) Yes, if the spars were broken previously, deformation of the stressed
skin will occur and a preflight (if you are lucky enough to be able to do
one, will reveal this fact. Yes, spars can be broken by the other mentioned
things and not show signs of skin deformity (until the next flight). In
this case, a hard landing is NOT a possible source (landing loads don't go
through the wing onn the -8).
>Q2) Could the negative change in load on the left wing in a roll--in the
>wing's weaker direction--cause a left wing with previously broken or
>weakened spar to give way? What are the unequal G loads produced on the
>wings by a normal left roll?
>
A2) Yes, but the ailerons will NOT cause both wings to fail. Simple
equations will give you the accelerations (and forces) to roll the -8 at
initial roll rate (highest loads) -Note: loads actually decrease as the roll
rate becomes stable.
>Q3) Could a roll at cruise speed or higher, (perhaps done by a person
>inexperienced with the plane and its control forces) including a sudden
>pull up such as entering a snap-roll-like maneuver, produce G loads in the
>range of +9 G?
>
A3) Most correctly performed rolls start with a pitch up so altitude is not
lost in the maneuver. If the aircraft was beyond Va, yes, the pitch up
could produce loads in excess of design loads. That's the definition of Va
(maneuvering speed).
>Dive Hypothesis: The spars broke and one wing failed due to 9+ G load from
>pull up in a high-speed dive. In this hypothesis, the "engine surging"
>resulted from a maneuver--a loop, a spin, a roll, or a dive--that the
>witness did not see. (One can imagine very unusual circumstances that
>could lead to a power dive other than an intentional maneuver. For
>example, if the passenger's belt was loose and he fell or moved forward
>against the stick. This could result in a power-on dive.) Since the sound
>took some 8 seconds to get to the witness, he apparently started looking a
>considerable time after this hypothesized maneuver. If the aircraft was
>allowed to get into a 150+ K dive, a sudden pull out could produce 9+ Gs.
>
>Q4) From the report of the witness, the plane was in level flight for some
>time after this hypothesized maneuver. Is it typical for an overstressed
>spar to fail 30 to 60 seconds after the stress?
>
A4) No! There is no doubt the aircraft was doing some aerobatic maneuvers
before the accident (eye witness mentioned engine surges).
>Q5) Since the right spar was also broken, is it surprising that the right
>wing did not also fold? In what circumstances would a spar break while the
>wing remains connected by the skin? What portion of the strength of the
>wing is due to the skin?
>
A5) No, typically both wings don't depart the aircraft, as the load
distribution is changed dramatically when the aircraft changes configuration
(ie. the aircraft rolls and relieves the other wing and both spars are not
perfectly identical to begin)
>Q6) A mile and a half seems a very long way to hear the breaking of a wing.
>He should have seen the break and spin 8 seconds before he heard the break,
>which is relatively consistent with his report. Witness reports of weather
>related breakups often are described as "explosions" and very loud noises.
>Perhaps aluminum breakage is particularly suited to producing a loud noise
>that carries very far in relatively quite air.
>
A6) AL breaks in the range of 45,000 psi. Have you heard a tire explode
with a mere 150 psi? The tire shakes our building at work. Not only is the
spar(s) breaking here; it is also tearing about 9 feet of wing skin (around
the airfoil).
If you have gotten this far in the e-mail, you really care about the correct
answer to the big question of "What happened?" The answer is . . . wait
for the NTSB report! They have a lot more information than we do and better
tools to analyze the situation for things like fatigue, stress fracture
(tension or compression) and . . .
Believing in the Design and Waiting for Answers, too
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hamilton McClymont <hammcc(at)istar.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA NORTHWEST |
Jim:
I'll be driving down and camping from the 10th to the 12th.
Cheers,
Hammy
--
Lamont Management Inc
Vancouver, BC 604-684-7702
http://home.istar.ca/~hammcc/INDEX.HTM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 A4K in a -6A |
>The builders manual says that this engine will not fit in a RV without
>extensive mods, but it doesn't say why and something tells me that it has
>already been done. Any takers?
>Chris Browne
>Atlanta
>-6a
We could start with what this engine was originally intended for...a
Grumman Tiger. This engine has an aft mounted side draft carburetor, and
probably interferes with the standard RV motor mount. The distance from
firewall to accessory cover is *MUCH* greater on the Tiger than on the RV,
so there is likely little room for the air box and filter after you modify
the engine mount to make it fit.
So, unless you have some compelling reason to use an O-360 A4K engine (a
Tiger crashed in your back yard?) why give yourself grief with an engine
that is known to *NOT* fit easily into an RV?
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip A Lehrke" <plehrke(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Right side stick attachment |
I plan to have my right stick removable (no PTT switch). What is the best
way to attach it? Should I just drill a hole through and stick and insert
an AN3 bolt with a nut on it? Also where is the best place to drill a hole
in the left stick to run wires up to the PTT switch? I have heard that
several sticks have broken in Pitts Specials at the location where the PTT
wire hole was drilled.
Phil Lehrke
RV-6A
Manual Aileron Trim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Robbins" <robm(at)am2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
Charles,
I appreciate your questions and could devote hours to answering each
separately. Having spent most of my adult life examining aircraft wreckage,
the failure mode of a wing spar is usually quite evident under examination,
particularly when one half of the fracture doesn't end up in the smoking
hole. Van's has been extremely proactive during accident investigations in
the past and I'm confident a reasonable outcome will result.
It is a disservice to the entire RV community to provide careless
speculation about the failure mode.
Reading between the lines in the NTSB preliminary implies a few things.
Unfortunately, witness accounts are often misleading. Mostly because
(despite the fact that our criminal justice system relies heavily on witness
accounts) people are extremely bad at remembering what they saw.
I have a few gee whiz accident investigation information pages on my web
site at: http://am2.com/consulting/how.htm and
http://am2.com/consulting/cases.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip A Lehrke" <plehrke(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flutter mechanics |
-----Original Message-----
From: GLOMBARD <gLombard(at)empire.net>
Date: Monday, June 15, 1998 5:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flutter mechanics
>
> Let's start with static stability and balance.
> So why are the elevators 100% balanced?
> On to dynamics. .
> For example, an aileron and its control linkage have a natural
>frequency determined by the elastic properties (ie. spring rate) of the
>control linkage and the inertia of the aileron.
> At some point, the aerodynamic natural frequency may approach the
>natural frequency of the control linkage and aileron.
> If there is play in the controls then the spring rate of the
>system is near zero and the natural frequency is very low so flutter is
>likely at much lower speeds.
> All of this discussion assumes that the airflow is steady before
>the fluttering starts.
> For a good mental picture of the flutter problem, think of a car
>pulling a trailer.
> If, on the other, the trailer is loaded with the center of
>gravity aft of the wheels, and you unhitch it at 60 mph it will likely
>execute a ground loop.
> If you are considering adding weight to balance the ailerons, try
>this first. I have not done it. Figure out where the CG of the aileron
>is relative to the hinge line.
>Greg Lombard - RV-8 drilling ribs to spars
>glombard(at)empire.net
I am also a Aero engineer and not an expert on flutter but I found this to
be an excellent discussion on what flutter is and it complications. I think
it is also a good lesson that leave the design modifications to the
professionals especially in the black science of flutter or you will end up
a statistic!!!!
Phil Lehrke
Advanced Design; Boeing St Louis
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA NORTHWEST |
Check in at the Puget Sound RVators tent. It should be in the southwest
corner of the field near the 'people' gate.
I believe a picnic is planned for Saturday afternoon, also.
John
>
>Is anyone on this list planning on going to the EAA Northwest Fly-In from
July
>8 thru July 12? I am curious, since I live two miles away from this
location,
>and would like to meet some of the folks that I converse with and correspond
>with.
>Jim Nice
>RV6A
>WA State
>
>
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
Seattle WA USA
1974 1/2 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/14/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EAA NORTHWEST |
Hamilton
I will keep my eye out for you. I am quite sure that if there is a gaggle of
RV's parked "together" at the fly-in, there is a chance I will see you there,
as I know I will be around there, too. I will have to be sure to ask folks
their names, and if they are building.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flutter mechanics |
<< I think
it is also a good lesson that leave the design modifications to the
professionals especially in the black science of flutter or you will end up
a statistic!!!! >>
To Phil
We would not have any problem with the black science of flutter if the aero
engineers would share applicable information on the subject.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
> the failure mode of a wing spar is usually quite evident under examination,
> particularly when one half of the fracture doesn't end up in the smoking
> hole.
Hi listers,
I'm wondering if there has been any information as to "which" spar (main
or rear) failed?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS814 and rib clearance |
Wait until you are ready to fit your skins to the HS frame. Fit the
skins in place, and decide how much you will have to trim so the 814
will clear the skin. I had to trim my tabs almost completely off. My 814
was cut from angle stock, as I screwed up the PP 814, so yours may
differ.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Chris Hinch wrote:
>
>
> On the HS814, the plans indicate that I should trim the prefabricated "tabs"
> to clear the inboard tip ribs. Could someone please clarify this for me?
> Does this happen after the HS front spar is all together, or should I cut
> the ends off before I assemble the front spar? How much comes off? Photos at
> one other RV8 website appear to show almost no "tab" left at all on the
> 814 - it looks like simply a big 810?
>
> Thanks in advance
> ____
>
> Chris Hinch
> Dunedin, New Zealand, assembling HS forward spar
> RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gravity inhibited engine |
An old car tire works well, without the rim of course.
skinning 2nd fuse
carey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bradgraves(at)aol.com |
[un]scribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bradgraves(at)aol.com |
unscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Boone, Iowa Flyin |
i don't thik that was brought up, but I am sure that she can find other
gals that will be glad to show her the sites of Boone this Sat. may wife
would like to show her around and when you get here let us know.
Ralph Koger
>
>My wife wants to know if there is anything (shopping, etc,) to do other
>than hang out with RV types at the Boone flyin this saturday
>
>chet razer
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA NORTHWEST |
>Is anyone on this list planning on going to the EAA Northwest Fly-In from
July
>8 thru July 12?
>Jim Nice
>RV6A
>WA State
Jim;
I plan to be there with my red Kitfox (N88MJ) on Saturday, and possibly on
Friday. Weather permitting, of course. I'm also hoping to fly down to
Scappose this Saturday for the fly-in.
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q #591
Issaquah
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EAA NORTHWEST |
I'll be there! RV-6A N79WH.
Walt Hastings (Los Angeles area)
Planning on a flight of two with my hangar partner, Dwain. RV-6 N164DH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
> (Hypotheses are conjectures for
> discussion and testing; they are not conclusions.)
I agree completely. Speculation, if done in the spirit of learning (not
blaming) is a good thing. It is only the search for blame that is a
negative.
In this spirit I wish to add a thought. To this date, all discussion (at
least that I have been privy towards) has centered on the main spar's
failure as the primary cause. What has not been discussed is the role of
the engine surging at least 8 seconds (probably more like 12-15 seconds)
PRIOR to the break-up. What could have caused the surge, and could that
factor have been responsible 12 seconds later for the violent pitch-up
which failed the spars? Suppose an engine broke free and shifted due to
a broken mount or failed propeller blade; could a resulting CG shift
cause a sharp and uncontrollable pitch up?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: HS814 and rib clearance |
From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
>skins in place, and decide how much you will have to trim so the 814
>will clear the skin. I had to trim my tabs almost completely off.
So here's a Tell-Me-Why question for the list - why have the tabs in the
first place? Do the tabs make the 814 inherently stronger than the
'tab-less' style of the 810? If so, why? Or do the trimmed tab stubs fill
some later function when joining the empennage to the fuselage?
Chris
Dunedin, New Zealand, just trying to understand, you understand...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbabell(at)mediaone.net |
Bradgraves(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> [un]scribe
Hi Brad,
Your attempt to terminate your subscription to the RV List failed. You
must send the message to rv-list-request(at)matronics.com and you must
spell unsubscribe correctly.
I finally finished my right fuel tank last night. What a horror that
Proseal is.
See you one of these days.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA NORTHWEST |
>
>
> I'll be there! RV-6A N79WH.
>
> Walt Hastings (Los Angeles area)
>
> Planning on a flight of two with my hangar partner, Dwain. RV-6 N164DH
>
And of course weather permitting I will be there. But then I am
there every year. Looking forward to seeing your airplane Walt.
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake master cylinder springs. |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
As a follow on to the master cyl. spring thread that was on the list
recently I wanted to provide some more information.
Cleveland originally said that they had apparently shipped some incorrect
springs on some of the cylinders. Then the thought was that builders
were compressing them by over stroking the cylinders with no fluid in
them (I am doubtful that this is a cause).
In any case, they have been so swamped with calls (we have sold "Lots" of
Cleveland components over the years) that they sent Van's a big box of
springs.
So if you feel that you have springs that are not correct. Call Tom at
Van's and talk to him about it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Right side stick attachment |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I plan to have my right stick removable (no PTT switch). What is the
>best
>way to attach it? Should I just drill a hole through and stick and
>insert
>an AN3 bolt with a nut on it? Also where is the best place to drill a
>hole
>in the left stick to run wires up to the PTT switch? I have heard
>that
>several sticks have broken in Pitts Specials at the location where the
>PTT
>wire hole was drilled.
>
>
>Phil Lehrke
>RV-6A
>Manual Aileron Trim
>
>
>
In our area we can find little snap pins at better hardware sores.
They have a little snap retaining ball on one end and a round ring on the
other. They can be shortened as desired. You just drill a 3/16 hole in
the stick assembly and then get a 3/16 pin.
The prototype RV-8A has this on the rear stick along with a short little
cable that attaches the pin to the stick so it doesn't get lost.
BTW if you install a small 2 conductor plug connector in the appropriate
location on the wire you can still have a PTT switch with the removable
stick (Then some day when you join with the massive RV flights flying as
a group to the big fly-Ins that we are likely to see after there is 3000
or more of these airplanes flying, your passenger will be able to talk
also!).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Mike Talley's Wiring Diagrams... |
RV Listers:
I was noticing that there was a problem accessing Mike Talley's wiring
diagrams from the Hovan page over the last week or so. Since the web
server is now here locally, I've been able to keep a much closer eye
on traffic...
For those of you have have tried to access Mike Talley's very excellent
Diagrams and couldn't seem to get them, please give it a try again.
There were some filename case problem between the index.html file and
actual filenames. I've made all of the MikeT filename case consistant,
and modified the index.html file to point to the correct filenames.
If you havn't seen Mike's diagrams, please check it out as he has put a great
deal of hard work into them and it shows!
I'm sorry I didn't notice this problem sooner...
Matt Dralle
Matronics
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder & Elevator leading edges |
In a message dated 6/17/98 10:56:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au writes:
> > Bottom line... Don't be to concerned about having done this on your
> > rudder, but think through the true value in anything that you do that can
> > add weight or construction time to your project.
>
Unless the fiberglass comes loose and limits movement of the control surface.
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Stop the Rumor Mill |
Quit speculating and spreading rumors on the -8 proto accident. Read the
NTSB report. The main spar failed (the left outboard panel was .2 miles
from the remainder of the plane). AND I know our gov people are not always
on top of things, but there is no mention of the engine, propeller or any
other part NOT being with the remainder of the plane! Van also mentions in
his updates that they are looking at the main wing spar. Let Van and the
NTSB do their thing; they know a lot more than we do and will some day tell
us why the spar separated.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6(A) Brake pedels (was) advice |
> "short spring" issue is actually a result of people
> over-compressing the brake cylinders with no fluid in the system?
> This is quite likely true and it never occurred to me until I saw it
> in the RVAtor. I bet that while we were all sitting there making
> airplane noises and playing with the rudder pedals, we were sacking
> out the original springs with no fluid in the system. Sheesh!
>
> It's certainly possible,
> -GV
>
Negative Gary.
I had four short springs and have never operated the passenger brakes
with my feet, or otherwise compressed the springs.
The correct springs are in fact a different diameter wire - not much,
but definititely visible.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinder springs. |
>Cleveland originally said that they had apparently shipped some
>incorrect springs on some of the cylinders. Then the thought was
>that builders were compressing them by over stroking the cylinders
>with no fluid in them (I am doubtful that this is a cause).
In defense of the builders, I had the shorter springs in my brake
cylinders and had not been compressing them. Mine had just been
installed and had no fluid in them. I got the new springs. To me, the
new ones looked like the old ones stretched a bit.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Make a career out of the canopy installation. :-) )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <wknight(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Radios/Com/ICS/Instruments For Sale |
Have Whelen new A413 Strobe Power Supply, VAL 760 Com, PS Engineering
1000-II, and RV-6 Airspeed Indicator for sale. Package price is $850. These
came out of brand new RV-6 tip-up (with 80 hours on it) I have just
converted to slider and built new instrument panel for. Please reply to Bill
(561) 272-6420.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hchristi(at)HDPP.de |
| Subject: | RV8 builders in germany |
Hi,
I`m looking for RV8 builders in germany comming to the OUV meeting
in Speyer
Helge Christiansen
shortly before ordering -8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder & Elevator leading edges |
Just to clarify things, I did not put any fiberglass on the rudder. Only
body filler was used, which added about 10 ounces to the weight of the
rudder...
Paul Besing
>
>In a message dated 6/17/98 10:56:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au writes:
>
>> > Bottom line... Don't be to concerned about having done this on your
>> > rudder, but think through the true value in anything that you do that
can
>> > add weight or construction time to your project.
>>
>
>Unless the fiberglass comes loose and limits movement of the control surface.
>
>Mark McGee
>RV4 Wings
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>
>>Way back in the Northumbrian period, I saw a note in the RV newsletter
>>about what a great idea it was to cut the manual flap handle down 2.5 ". I
>>did this and so did some others. BIG mistake. >>
>
>I also shortened my flap handle. I don't recall exactly how much I removed,
>but it was enough to let the handle lay flat and parallel with the floor.
I have been watching this flap handle thread even though I'm 98% sure
I will go with electric flaps.
No has mentioned trying to have both a short handle to stow _and_ a long
handle for leverage. Why not arrange the handle like a car jack handle -
an outer tube around a smaller tube, the smaller tube connected to the
flaps? When the flaps are up, the outer tube is collapsed over the
smaller and the handle lays flat. To get the leverage, simply slide
the outer tube out after having lifted them both from stowed position.
I won't have to deal with that for a while.
I _have_ resolved the problem I posted from my home AOL account
(Grobdriver) last weekend regarding my HS forward spar. Thanks
to Jeff Orear, I chilled until I got the whole thing into the
Avery jig fixtures and checked again - everything lined up fine.
That was enough to make it a good weekend - but to top it off, Chapter
187 had a picnic/fly-in here in Austin and I got my first RV-6 ride
with Bob Siebert (Thanks Bob!). Made my face hurt for the rest of
the day (that RV grin)! Was just the inspiration I needed to get
the emp into the jig and start putting the skeleton together.
I can see I'm going to need some more inspiration in a couple of
weeks! What a machine! And Bob is so smooth I couldn't hardly
tell right-side-up from up-side-down!
:) ;) :)
- Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jensen, Keith (MC R&D)" <KJensen(at)simplot.com> |
| Subject: | Stop the Rumor Mill |
I second the motion.
Over a thousand "listers"! Wow! Matt has really done it.
With that large a percentage of Van's customers (or potential
customers), we could really cause some unintentional damage with open
speculation, couldn't we!
Keith Jensen
-6A, emp
> ----------
> From: Ronald Blum[SMTP:fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 1998 3:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Stop the Rumor Mill
>
>
>
> Quit speculating and spreading rumors on the -8 proto accident. Read
> the
> NTSB report. The main spar failed (the left outboard panel was .2
> miles
> from the remainder of the plane). AND I know our gov people are not
> always
> on top of things, but there is no mention of the engine, propeller or
> any
> other part NOT being with the remainder of the plane! Van also
> mentions in
> his updates that they are looking at the main wing spar. Let Van and
> the
> NTSB do their thing; they know a lot more than we do and will some day
> tell
> us why the spar separated.
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)mci.com> |
| Subject: | Solo construction |
Folks,
How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person. I have
"permission" to build but this my hobby - not hers. She is willing
to help of course, about ten percent or so but isn't willing to spend
as much time in the garage as it will take to get something like this
into the air.
I have been considering a Zenith SuperZodiac also but I want something
that can't be outrun by a Cessna 172. The Zenith certainly looks like
a simpler kit and faster to put together and get in the air - but I
think a little speed is worth waiting for.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA NORTHWEST |
>
>Is anyone on this list planning on going to the EAA Northwest Fly-In from July
>8 thru July 12?
Hi Jim, I go every year. There are a few of the local area people around
here show up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weichert, Wolfgang" <Wolfgang.Weichert(at)nrc.ca> |
| Subject: | Cracks in landing gear/motor mount on RV6 |
Our RV-6 has about 300hrs flight time. During an annual inspection, we
found a cracked weld in the motor mount on both sides. The affected weld
line is the lower weld between the 2 " long "DIA tube through which
the motor mount is bolted to the fuselage with AN6-30 bolts, and the 1
5/8" DIA tube which forms the socket for the landing gear. The bottom
edge of this weld has pulled off the 1 5/8" landing gear socket,
identical on both sides.
We have removed the motor mount and sent it to a licensed shop for TIG
welding.
VAN's have not seen any such crack as yet in any planes. Is there
anyone out there who has experienced similar cracking?
======================================
* Wolfgang Weichert System Support Unit
* Phone (613) 993-9589 Fax (613) 941-0175
* e-mail wolfgang.weichert(at)nrc.ca
======================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Sanding Ribs, Best technique? |
Hello,
Having my wing kit, it has quickly dawned on me that the bulk of my time
will be spent sanding/deburring ribs and small pieces. What follows is how
I do it with a request for any suggestions for improvement. I average
about one hour per large rib.
My Technique:
1. Using Dremel tool with router bit 650 (or equivalent) I do the rough
filing. It works especially well in the circular areas and at the corners.
2. Using Scotch Medium Wheel on bench grinder I deburr the edges of the
circular cutouts. I use the Dremel tool to deburr the rest.
3. Then I use medium grit emery cloth to fine sand the piece and
occasionally a round file in the corners.
4. I use the Avery double sided deburring tool.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4. (Sometimes more than once)
6. I finish off with medium (red) or coarse (green) scotch pads.
7. Then I stand there about five to ten minutes trying to think of an
easier/quicker way.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, ID - USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOMMY E. WALKER" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph E.Capen <Ralph.E.Capen(at)mci.com>
Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 10:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Solo construction
>
>Folks,
>
>How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person. I have
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>
>Ralph, Finding help isn't a problem.There are probably several RV builders
in your area! I have found that RV builders in general are more than willing
to help a fellow builder. Please don't build a Zinith, Zinair or whatever
they're called, there so ugley "a real two bagger".
Just my two cents
Tommy
6-A in Ridgetop, Tennessee
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
Ralph E.Capen wrote:
> How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person. I have
> "permission" to build but this my hobby - not hers. She is willing
> to help of course, about ten percent or so but isn't willing to spend
> as much time in the garage as it will take to get something like this
> into the air.
Ralph--
I'm building solo, and can assure you that it can be done. There are
times, of course, where two people become necessary for riveting skins
and stuff, and times where two people sure would be nice, so find
someone who has some experience and put him/her on the payroll! I've
accumulated lots of people who are eager for me to call for help, but
90% of the time I don't need anbody. Most of the building project is a
one-man(-woman) job.
My dear wifey has no interest in planes, and determined before I decided
to tackle this project that it was MY diversion, not hers. But, two
years into it, she has started wandering down to the shop and poking
around. She has a little more free time on her hands now, and is
"looking for a hobby." I half-heartedly suggested helping me, and quite
surprisingly she admitted having given it some thought. There are so
many mundane tasks that need to be done that she's willing to
do--stripping plastic coatings, prepping/priming parts, deburring,
etc.--anything she can contribute will only speed things up (and not
make me worry that she might be messing up MY PROJECT!) I guess
deburring sounds less traumatic to her than painting or wallpapering.
The moral of this story is: "Don't count her out yet." In time, she may
want to help you. She may not. As for which plane to build, the choice
is a simple one. Do you want a fast, economical, good-looking plane or
a goofy-looking one? :)
Good luck on your decisions.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
>How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person. I have
>"permission" to build but this my hobby - not hers. She is willing
>to help of course, about ten percent or so but isn't willing to spend
>as much time in the garage as it will take to get something like this
>into the air.
>
>I have been considering a Zenith SuperZodiac also but I want something
>that can't be outrun by a Cessna 172.
>Ralph Capen
Ralph,
I had a situation similar to yours. My wife was willing to help a little
but didn't want to be "full time". I built the empenage by myself. On the
wings, I had help when riveting on the top skins. With the two-piece wing
skins (standard in the kit) you could rivet the top and bottom skins on by
yourself but a better job on the top (visible) skins can be had with two
people. For a really nice job on the top skins, I recommend back riveting.
In this case, the person running the bucking bar, which is placed on the
factory head, doesn't need any skill. The only thing the bucker needs to
know is when to move on to the next rivet. When we're back riveting, I tell
the bucker not to move until I say "next". He then inserts the next rivet
and we set it. He leaves the bar on the rivet in case it needs to be driven
some more. After two people work together for a time, there is very little
"setting the rivet a little more." There is no way for the bucker to screw
up unless he removes the bar & you set the rivet some more. All of the
pressure to do a good job is on the person driving the rivet.
Back riveting also works very well on the fuselage. The fuselage is where
you will need the most assistance. I did a lot of places that I could
reach, by myself & riveting the conventional way, but you're taking a chance
on an "uh oh". Flaps, ailerons, wing tips, the cowling and even the canopy
can be done alone. But, if you have a friend or wife handy, use them as
much as possible. If you live in a populated area, I'll bet you can hook up
with a fellow RVer for help and advice.
Riveting really is a small amount of the time that you will spend on your
project and goes pretty fast. Most of the time is spent thinking, planning,
drilling & de-burring, dimpling, priming, etc. All stuff you can do by
yourself.
I'm sure the Zodiac would be easier to build but with the RV, you end up
with a really great airplane. You also have a great support network: the
RV-list, Van's and local builders. I would imagine that the resale value of
a RV would be better than the Zodiac.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fourazjs" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
Does anyone know if Proseal is compatible w/ jet fuel or kerosene. I would
guess that it is but I want to be sure. Looking ahead to the Renault diesel
that will be at Oshkosh this year.
Jeff Farrar, RV8A Empennage, Patiently??! waiting for QB, Chandler, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
JUST A THOUGHT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
Ralph,
before i would commit to a zenair, i would look closely at the way their
ailerons work.
i saw one at the sun and fun, there is no way i would fly a plane that the
wing and aileron was one unit, making it neccessary for the sheetmetal to
flex every time you bank the aircraft. also only pop rivits are used, no
trust there either. flexing sheetmetal back and forth a few hundred times
will eventually crack and fail,
just my .002cents worth
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Folks,
>
>How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person.
________________________________________________________________________________
an estimate of about 10 hours that help is needed. I think that is about
right.
I was worried about this before I purchased my kit but it is really a
non-issue. Some of the drilling and riviting of large skins are the main
time help is needed.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Mounting wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)geon.com> |
| Subject: | Solo construction |
> Ralph,
>
I agree with Don and would add that I work alone 95+ percent of
the time. I don't believe I have sacrificed quality, but have been able
to manage by myself more than others I've talked with. If your wife
wants to help, great! There are plenty of tasks which are pretty boring
and repetitive (I'm not generalizing, it just sounds that way)... What
I'm saying is you aren't drilling to fit your empennage or riveting
skins all of the time. Take advantage of what help you can get, but
don't let the issue stop you. Good luck and don't wait too long - you
can really make progress fast with these RV kits.
Also, the Zodiac is not even in the same class as an RV!!
...looks or performance... I have never built a Zodiac but I feel sure
saying that you won't beat the quality of an RV kit for the price.
Bryan Jones, Pearland, TX
RV-8 80313, attaching fuse top skin (talk about needing help!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA NORTHWEST Fly -In |
The annual Northwest EAA Fly-In at RVington uh Arlington, Washington
starts on Wednesday, July 8th and ends on Sunday, July 12th. There
will be a dedicated parking area just for RVs, located on the northern
side of the intersection of taxiways Foxtrot and Delta. If you come in
through the front gate, you cant miss it. If you fly in, Ramp Control
will guide you. This year, the RV parking area will be almost TWICE the
size of previous years! We look forward to comfortably parking all the
RV arrivals together. There should be lots of RVs to ogle bring your
camera(and a hanky to mop up all that drool)!
The Puget Sound Rvators will once again host a hospitality tent in the
RV parking area. Present and future RV-ers are invited to stop by, get
something cool to drink, and shoot the breeze. On Saturday, we will
have our annual hamburger and hot dog cook-out. Condiments, soft
drinks, tableware and napkins will be provided. Guests are encouraged
to bring a side dish or dessert to share.
All pilots planning to fly in should read the Notam regarding special
procedures during the fly-in, easily obtained at
http://www.nweaa.org/nweaa/. Please note that there are different
special arrival procedures for Saturday and Sunday than for Wednesday
through Friday. Be sure to stay away from the west side of the airport
during your arrivals and departures. Remember that fly-bys arent
allowed until youve gotten the fly-by pattern briefing on the ground.
This years Fly-in promises to be a great time for all. With daily
airshows, exhibits, big RV formation fly-bys, the fly market and much
more, there is always something to see and do. With our extra parking
space, the hospitality tent, on-site registration, and the picnic on
Saturday, youve simply got to come!
Mark Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | SOLO CONSTRUCTION |
My wife (terri) tho a great gal can't buck a rivet, she can't see well
and can't get the bucking bar square. So I have riveted about 93% of
our RV-4 you will need help one side of wing skins and fuselage. I found
she could rivet ok using Averys swivel flush set, she still has a
problem timing the rivet so I drill out a few too flat rivets. but we
are nearly finished and still married.
Wayne
Top skins on fuselage
starring at canopy.Ralph E.Capen wrote:
> How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person.
> Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
Fellow -6A drivers:
I'm 7 hrs into my (El Nino-tortured) flight test program and still hurting
from the fact that my very first landing was the best of all the dozens I've
tried since then. T/O roll seems long also. It occurs to me that the flight
speeds I'm using, assimilated from my 2 hrs with Mike Seager, might not be
ideal. For some reason my AOL browser won't let me access Scott Gesele's
Pilot Operating Handbook, where this information is probably readily
available.
So I'll ask you wise ones what speed one flies the approach for a normal and a
short-field landing, and at what speed on takeoff I should rotate the
nosewheel clear of the runway before she flies herself off.
Confession time: I've been shooting my landings at 90 mph indicated up to the
start of round out. Typically I will start the flare a bit high but end up
flying the plane onto the runway without getting a lap full of back-stick
before touchdown. So I tend to bounce a lot, but I get to log several
landings for each trip over the numbers. Early-on I was even adding power on
final because the VSI spooked me: 1200-1600 fpm descent on a stabilized 90
mph full-flaps approach seemed like too much sink rate to arrest with the
energy I had going into the flare. I've now learned not to look at the VSI on
final if everything looks okay outside the cockpit. The landings with Mike
impressed me with the steep approach possible in the -6 with full flaps, but
at the time I was concentrating more on the unfamiliar experience of landing a
taildragger.
On take-off, I am in the habit of rolling on all three gear until the ASI
shows 55-60 mph, then hauling slowly back until she becomes airborne. The
right rudder requirement seems high, and keeping the ball centered in ground
effect means bringing in enough right pedal to yaw the plane noticeably on the
centerline. Should I lift the nose at, say, 45 mph and then let acceleration
do the rest as we pass minimum flying speed?
What is the best short field approach speed? How much power to hold with
that?
Soft-field T/O with or without partial flaps?
Thanks, intrepid aviators. I want to do the best job of airmanship I can,
next time I fly. Your tips are appreciated.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
western VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Solo Construction |
Ralph Capen asked>>
>How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person?
I'm pretty far into the fuselage, and have done well over 90% of the work so
far myself. I could probably have done 95+% of the work myself, but if I can
get someone to help deburr, dimple, etc. it reduces the monotony. Looking
ahead, I figure the canopy will require some extra hands, as will moving big
pieces during final assembly.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Solo construction |
Ralph, I built the rudder for a CH601HDS Zodiac. I was not impressed at
all....first of all, the instructions were vague, the plans were hand drawn
with little hand written illegible notes written all over them..not to
mention, they were 8 1/2" X 11"..(hello, ever heard of CAD?) and their
performance figures are grossly inflated. I sent the rudder back to them
after I found all this out, but they did refund my money, less s+h....
Also, regarding the support, just to put it into perspective, there was
only one zodiac builder in the entire Phoenix area, and there must be 30 or
40 RV's...not much help there...also, last year at Oshkosh, there was,
count 'em ONE Zodiac there, and about 350 RV's (correct me if I am wrong on
the RV numbers, guys)
You have a great group of people both here on the list, and I am sure in
your area that would be glad to assist you with your decision, and
ultimately, your construction..
Good luck,
Paul Besing
Former Zodiac builder and Proud RV Builder
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fourazjs" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding Ribs, Best technique? |
Vince, Try using the deburring tool and/or a small mill basterd file to
take off the sheared edge and then hit it w/ 400 grit emery paper. All you
are trying to do is round off the edge. I don't think that you have to go
thru quite as much effort as you are doing. I have only done the empennage
and the ribs are muchsmaller but they probably took less than 5 minutes
each.
Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince S. Himsl <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu>
Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 9:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: Sanding Ribs, Best technique?
>
>Hello,
>
>Having my wing kit, it has quickly dawned on me that the bulk of my time
>will be spent sanding/deburring ribs and small pieces. What follows is how
>I do it with a request for any suggestions for improvement. I average
>about one hour per large rib.
>Regards,
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 Wings
>Moscow, ID - USA
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
I kept a log of the time when I needed help on the first plane,RV4, it
totaled 50 hours. On my second project I did not keep track of the time but
I know it was less then half of that.
Tom Martin
HR2 28hours!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS814 and rib clearance |
I think the tabs are a leftover from the RV-4/6, where the fuselage attach bolts
needed these tabs for edge clearance. Like I said in my previous post, my 814 was
custom made by yours truly after I screwed up the factory 814. I have no tabs left
whatsoever, but it is possible that my flange is just longer then the factory cut
flange. Don't cut those tabs off until you test fit the skin, you may need them.
Every plane is different.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Chris Hinch wrote:
>
> So here's a Tell-Me-Why question for the list - why have the tabs in the
> first place? Do the tabs make the 814 inherently stronger than the
> 'tab-less' style of the 810? If so, why? Or do the trimmed tab stubs fill
> some later function when joining the empennage to the fuselage?
>
> Chris
> Dunedin, New Zealand, just trying to understand, you understand...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
fourazjs(at)email.msn.com wrote:
> Does anyone know if Proseal is compatible w/ jet fuel or kerosene.
> I would guess that it is but I want to be sure.
Based on what Fred Hiatt wrote to the
RV-List some time ago, I'd guess it is... here's what he said, as
recorded by me in my Bunny's Guide at
<http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4809/bunny2c.htm>: For
those of you using the tank sealant that Vans now ships, here is more
information than you may ever want to know.
After reading the note from Wayne Bonesteel about fuel tank sealant
made by Advanced Chemistry & Technology, Inc., I called Nick Champlin
(if desired, contact Tel: (714) 373-2837 Fax: (714) 373-1913) at the
company to learn more (us engineers are ever curious).
He gave me permission to forward the following info regarding the
Thiokol MC-236 B-2 Fuel Tank Sealant:
The material is made to pass Mil-S-8802 specification which among
other things requires a hard cure time of 40 hours maximum. (This
stuff is used on the Stealth Bomber (B2) fuel tanks).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Seventh Annual Northwest RV Fly-In |
Just a reminder be sure to come to the SEVENTH ANNUAL NORTHWEST RV
FLY IN!
The fly-in this year (and every year) is at Scappoose, OR Industrial
Airport (1S4), and is this coming Saturday, June 20, starting at
10:00am.
Details can be found on the Home Wing Home Page, at
http://www.edt.com/homewing/flyin98.html.
At this point the weather forecast looks quite favorable, and we're
looking forward to a great fly-in.
See you there!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
> No has mentioned trying to have both a short handle to stow _and_ a long
> handle for leverage. Why not arrange the handle like a car jack handle -
> an outer tube around a smaller tube, the smaller tube connected to the
> flaps? When the flaps are up, the outer tube is collapsed over the
> smaller and the handle lays flat. To get the leverage, simply slide
> the outer tube out after having lifted them both from stowed position.
Might work if you give it lots of thought and trial (which only takes away
from building time), but what about the disengage button which you need to
activate ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
> How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person. I have
All of it except where you need a helper to buck rivets that you can't
reach by yourself...Also a bit of lifting from time to time...
> I have been considering a Zenith SuperZodiac also but I want something
> that can't be outrun by a Cessna 172. The Zenith certainly looks like
> a simpler kit and faster to put together and get in the air - but I
> think a little speed is worth waiting for.
Boy ! is this wide open for comment and opinion ! Get a ride in both a
Zodiac and any RV then ask yourself again. But even without a ride, check
out the quality and finesse of each and more important, bang for the buck.
You be the judge...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
At my EAA meeting last night, I spent about two hours talking with various
builders, several of them RV builders. The general consensus was that the 8 spar
looked plenty beefy, and they all thought that Van's design was overbuilt if
anything. The prop failure was ruled out because they said it would be detected
very quickly in the investigation. Several of them SPECULATED that the aircraft
may have been abused in it's role as demo plane, and it may have caught up with
it. Now a question for the list, those of you out there that have had demo rides
in the 4 or 8, did you do aerobatics? If yes, what type, and were you allowed to
try anything? Was the plane overweight at the time?
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
> I agree completely. Speculation, if done in the spirit of learning (not
> blaming) is a good thing. It is only the search for blame that is a
> negative.
> In this spirit I wish to add a thought. To this date, all discussion (at
> least that I have been privy towards) has centered on the main spar's
> failure as the primary cause. What has not been discussed is the role of
> the engine surging at least 8 seconds (probably more like 12-15 seconds)
> PRIOR to the break-up. What could have caused the surge, and could that
> factor have been responsible 12 seconds later for the violent pitch-up
> which failed the spars? Suppose an engine broke free and shifted due to
> a broken mount or failed propeller blade; could a resulting CG shift
> cause a sharp and uncontrollable pitch up?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
>
>It is a disservice to the entire RV community to provide careless
>speculation about the failure mode.
>
My post must not be as clear as I intended. It is not my intention to
"speculate on the cause" but to understand possible causes of similar
possible failures. The NTSB report and Van's analysis will be based on
more knowledge and information than I have available and will inform us
about this accident. I intend to ask questions to better understand
accidents and possible accidents of a similar nature.
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gravity inhibited engine |
Thanks for all the informative responses. There were a couple of other
considerations that prompted my original post. Right now my engine is
horizontal, upside down, and leaking some oil that I'm having a little trouble
corraling. Besides the portability issue, and having a better way to catch
the oil, I envisioned being able to attach the engine horizontally so that I
could occasionally rotate it to keep the oil coating distributed, but maybe
that's not a big deal if the engine is kept full of oil.
One other question. Are there any negative considerations in storing the
engine vertically on the prop flange type stand?
Joel RV-8 Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Aeronautical ideas in a 8th grade class |
My niece (trece(at)pld.com) teaches 8th grade and would like to include
something aeronautical in her integrated math and science class next fall.
The hopes to inspire some interest in aviation. Can anyone offer
suggestions for projects or leads to materials she might use?
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
If you can get 10% help that should be about 8% more than necessary. I'm into
the fuselage and have only needed help on the wing skins and removing the wings
from the jig, about 8 hours maximum.
Brian Eckstein
----------
>
>
> Folks,
>
> How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person. I have
> "permission" to build but this my hobby - not hers. She is willing
> to help of course, about ten percent or so but isn't willing to spend
> as much time in the garage as it will take to get something like this
> into the air.
>
> I have been considering a Zenith SuperZodiac also but I want something
> that can't be outrun by a Cessna 172. The Zenith certainly looks like
> a simpler kit and faster to put together and get in the air - but I
> think a little speed is worth waiting for.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>Might work if you give it lots of thought and trial (which only takes away
>from building time), but what about the disengage button which you need to
>activate ?
:\
Good point.
Change my 98% to 100% - I think I'll do electric flaps :)
- Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
>My post must not be as clear as I intended. It is not my intention to
>"speculate on the cause" but to understand possible causes of similar
>possible failures.
Charles, I think your post was clear and constructive. Discussion on and of
accidents have always been helpful to me and should be to any pilot and
builder. RVs are proven airplanes. That is why I selected it, and why
recommend them to anyone who asks, "what should I build."
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
> it. Now a question for the list, those of you out there that have had demo
rides
> in the 4 or 8, did you do aerobatics? If yes, what type, and were you allowed
to
> try anything? Was the plane overweight at the time?
I would caution people who is inclined to ask or answer questions
like this to bear in mind that your discussions are broadcast to ~1000
people and could easily end up being read by anyone, and possibly used
in an NTSB or FAA investigation, court action, newspaper article, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
Ralph,
I thought I was gonna have the same problem Cheap Good Help. However once I
hooked up with some of the builders in the area, there is always a body that
will enjoy driving rivetts with you.
BSivori(at)Aol.Com
N929RV ( Reseved )
Closing Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Talley's Wiring Diagrams... |
Lister's
What is the URL for this page?
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle 510-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 2:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mike Talley's Wiring Diagrams...
510-606-1001)
>
>
>RV Listers:
>
>I was noticing that there was a problem accessing Mike Talley's wiring
>diagrams from the Hovan page over the last week or so. Since the web
>server is now here locally, I've been able to keep a much closer eye
>on traffic...
>
>For those of you have have tried to access Mike Talley's very excellent
>Diagrams and couldn't seem to get them, please give it a try again.
>
>There were some filename case problem between the index.html file and
>actual filenames. I've made all of the MikeT filename case consistant,
>and modified the index.html file to point to the correct filenames.
>
>If you havn't seen Mike's diagrams, please check it out as he has put a
great
>deal of hard work into them and it shows!
>
>I'm sorry I didn't notice this problem sooner...
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics
>
>
>
>
>--
>
>Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Right side stick attachment |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Phil,
I didn't secure the right side stick in my RV-6A. It's already a snug
fit due to the paint. I find it VERY convenient to be able to remove it
in flight, or just before takeoff, especially when it's gusty and the
passenger's thigh's are at bit large!!! With the stick removed there
won't be any control interference, but I can still insert it while flying
if the passenger wants to try his/her hand at it...
The down side to this is that I don't have a PPT switch in the right
stick. I have, however, installed one on the right lower corner of the
panel where the person in the right seat can easily access it. (In fact,
I put one on both sides so that the pilot doesn't have to touch the stick
to transmitt when the co-pilot is flying...)
With 1095+ hrs on N925RV, I haven't had any problems with this
arrangement....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
fourazjs wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know if Proseal is compatible w/ jet fuel or kerosene.
Listers:
I've been wanting to ask this for a while now and I hope it doesn't fall
into the "stupid questions of the week category". Sorry if it does, here
goes:
What exactly is this pro-seal stuff? (Other than a product to seal the
tanks)
Is it epoxy based?
What are the post "icky" characteristics?
Where can I get a spec sheet/sample?
Thanks in advance.
martin shorman
lawton, ia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re:save it for later. |
>
>At my EAA meeting last night, (snip)
>it. Now a question for the list, those of you out there that have had demo
rides
>in the 4 or 8, did you do aerobatics? If yes, what type, and were you
allowed to
>try anything? Was the plane overweight at the time?
>
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>Check out my RV-8 page at:
>http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
>I repeat.
> RV-List: N58RV Accident>Listers: regarding the recent RV8 crash;
I for one will not feel free to comment further on, or respond to
remarks regarding this subject untill the appropriate official reports are
made public.
There are lots of real questions still begging answers. In spite of
any and all good intentions it is still best to wait in silence while real
information is still being studied. Rumors often arise out of innocent
postulations and gain ever stronger validity each time they are responded or
referred to. Lets all wait for word from appropriate sources (NTSB, Vans',
FAA, etc.), then we can question and answer the string to its eventual end.
Jon and all others please note, Do not take offence, There is no criticism
intended in this statement.
jim RV6-eh wing rivets and tanks to do. Kelowna, B.C., Canada >
>
* When dreams come true the sky's the limit *
jjewell(at)okanagan.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
* When dreams come true the sky's the limit *
jjewell(at)okanagan.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in landing gear/motor mount on RV6 |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Wolfgang,
Have you experienced any front wheel shimming incidents that could
have caused your problem? I've had a few during the 1095+ Hrs and I
don't know how many landings in my -6A, but so far, no cracks in that
area. But, next oil change, I'm going to look a lot closer.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Talley's Wiring Diagrams... |
Hum, sorry guess I should have put this in the message... :-) The URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan
Its down towards the bottom of the main hovan page.
Matt
>--------------
>
>Lister's
>What is the URL for this page?
>
>
>>
>>RV Listers:
>>
>>I was noticing that there was a problem accessing Mike Talley's wiring
>>diagrams from the Hovan page over the last week or so. Since the web
>>server is now here locally, I've been able to keep a much closer eye
>>on traffic...
>>
>>For those of you have have tried to access Mike Talley's very excellent
>>Diagrams and couldn't seem to get them, please give it a try again.
>>
>>There were some filename case problem between the index.html file and
>>actual filenames. I've made all of the MikeT filename case consistant,
>>and modified the index.html file to point to the correct filenames.
>>
>>If you havn't seen Mike's diagrams, please check it out as he has put a
>great
>>deal of hard work into them and it shows!
>>
>>I'm sorry I didn't notice this problem sooner...
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>Matronics
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding Ribs, Best technique? |
>
>Hello,
>
>Having my wing kit, it has quickly dawned on me that the bulk of my time
>will be spent sanding/deburring ribs and small pieces. What follows is how
>I do it with a request for any suggestions for improvement. I average
>about one hour per large rib.
(snip)
>7. Then I stand there about five to ten minutes trying to think of an
>easier/quicker way.
Vince:
>
One very good way to speed things up would be STOP STANDING AROUND !! :`)
grin now ,your certain to grin later).
otherwise Your doing just fine. >
Jim 6-eh- wing tanks
* When dreams come true the sky's the limit *
jjewell(at)okanagan.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fourazjs" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
You can ask for the MSDS ie. Material Safety Data Sheet. All manufacturers
are supposed to have one for each product that could be hazardous. Jeff
Farrar, RV8A Empennage, Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net>
Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Proseal
>
>Where can I get a spec sheet/sample?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>martin shorman
>lawton, ia
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Lister's,
The power of this list and the internet is incredible.
I recently came across a salvage aircraft that was up for bid in
Hagerstown, MD (I'm in California)
and needed some one to act as my eyes and ears out there. I put out a
request on the RV list for
members who lived in Maryland. Within hours I had 5 responses. I'd like
to thank these folks publicly
on the list to let you all know what great people the RV builders are.
Bob Scherer who drove 3 hours round trip to take pictures for me, 1 hour
develop them , and had them
Fed-Ex'd to me.
John Armstrong of Virginia who drove down on his own and reported back
to me via the 'net.
Gene Gottschalk who was ready to roll at any time and put up with many
emails from me!
Ed Anderson
Carl Froehlich
Curtis Hinkley ---These guys all responded quickly
Gary VanRemortel for introducing me to Marc Schrick who has dealt with
salvage aircraft and offered good advice.
Yes, I did win the bid. It was a Velocity damaged in a high speed taxi
accident.Only 17 hrs since the guy registered it
and it never left the ground) It had a 50 hr IO-360 and $14,000 worth
of Gyros, radios, and GPS goodies.
Stay tuned as I offer some of this stuff to the list.
Anyone, want a Velocity to rebuild----?
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuselage--skinnin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding Ribs, Best technique? |
Get yourself a couple of craytex or scotchbtite wheels of several
diameters. These are like grinding wheels to use in a drill or
diegrinder.
RVer273sb Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Observations from Fuselage Land |
A couple of things I've learned while building my RV-6 fuse...
1) My J-channels were not straight. I had assumed they were, but alignment
problems between the channels and the depressions in the bulkheads were
persistant. I finally looked down the channels and saw that they were not
straight. A few flutes later, and everything fit much better.
2) I hate priming, but I did learn a new trick on the fuse. I bought three
4' long sections of wire shelf material from the local home store. Laying
parts on top of these while priming allowed the paint to spray much more
evenly than my old method of laying all the parts on a piece of cardboard or
plywood. This is because the spray could flow around the parts instead of
being deflected by the underlying surface. Also, with the old method, I
usually ended up chasing smaller parts around and around with the spray gun.
$9 well spent. No need to wait for the fuse for this, it would work well for
all those tail and wing ribs, angles, etc.
Kyle Boatright
Atlanta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Hi Bill,
This is just my personal preference but on all of my RV's (2 4's & a 6),
I found the best average approach speed to be 70 MPH. This should be
modified as necessary naturally if conditions warrant. For short fields
you can go to 65 MPH, this still allows enough for a decent flare. I
think that you are possibly flying it too fast. The real key is a
STABILIZED approach. Don't go from 90 to 70 all at once, creep up on it
in 5 MPH increments until you feel confortable.
Best regards, Bill, RV-4 N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aeronut <aeronut(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
Ralph:
You'll need her help to buck rivets (or to operate the rivet gun. My
experience so far has been: empennage about 6 hours; fuel tanks about 4
hours each. Wing leading edge to main spar attachment: about three hours
each. Wing skins: about 6 hours each wing. For me, this has been spread
out over two years.
George
#80006
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph E.Capen <Ralph.E.Capen(at)mci.com>
Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 11:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Solo construction
>
>Folks,
>
>How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person. I have
>"permission" to build but this my hobby - not hers. She is willing
>to help of course, about ten percent or so but isn't willing to spend
>as much time in the garage as it will take to get something like this
>into the air.
>
>I have been considering a Zenith SuperZodiac also but I want something
>that can't be outrun by a Cessna 172. The Zenith certainly looks like
>a simpler kit and faster to put together and get in the air - but I
>think a little speed is worth waiting for.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
I like to lift the nose wheel off ASAP, (per Mike's instructions), and hold it
a few inches off until the runway; then when the airspeed gets to about 60,
she lifts off.
I am still experimenting with landings myself... recently I have been holding
her at about 75-80 indicated with full flaps and alittle power to reduce that
sink rate. This seems to work out well most of the time.
Isn't this FUN!
Walt RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Bob Scherer who drove 3 hours round trip to take pictures for me, 1 hour
develop them , and had them Fed-Ex'd to me. >>
Thank you Bob. You may have been the one responsible for my latest Reliability
Incentive Pay bonus. (RIP) I work as an aircraft maintenancw technician for
Fed EX.
Regards
Wendell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
When I started flying my first -6A several years ago, I asked Van about some
problems I was having doing good landings. His suggestion was to get up to
altitude and practice, practice, practice slow flight until I felt really
comfortable flying at/near minimum controllable airspeed. After that, about
80 mph with full flaps on final, slowing to 70 mph going over the numbers,
usually worked out pretty well for me. My engine idle speed was also set
too high at 900 rpm. Resetting it to 700 rpm also helped a great deal. For
short fields, I usually tried to drag it in with power (enough to arrest the
sink rate) at 60/65 mph or so with full flaps. Some of the landing
techniques will probably vary depending on what type prop you're using.
Mine was wood. Flying behind a constant speed is a little different because
of the braking effect of a fine pitch prop setting.
For take-offs, I used 20 degrees of flap almost always (which also gives a
little better directional control), and enough back-pressure to raise the
nose as soon as possible on the roll, for earliest lift-off. I believe this
is generally what the factory guys do as well.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>So I'll ask you wise ones what speed one flies the approach for a normal
and a
>short-field landing, and at what speed on takeoff I should rotate the
>nosewheel clear of the runway before she flies herself off.
>
>Confession time: I've been shooting my landings at 90 mph indicated up to
the
>start of round out. Typically I will start the flare a bit high but end up
>flying the plane onto the runway without getting a lap full of back-stick
>before touchdown. So I tend to bounce a lot, but I get to log several
>landings for each trip over the numbers. Early-on I was even adding power
on
>final because the VSI spooked me: 1200-1600 fpm descent on a stabilized 90
>mph full-flaps approach seemed like too much sink rate to arrest with the
>energy I had going into the flare. I've now learned not to look at the VSI
on
>final if everything looks okay outside the cockpit. The landings with Mike
>impressed me with the steep approach possible in the -6 with full flaps,
but
>at the time I was concentrating more on the unfamiliar experience of
landing a
>taildragger.
>
>On take-off, I am in the habit of rolling on all three gear until the ASI
>shows 55-60 mph, then hauling slowly back until she becomes airborne. The
>right rudder requirement seems high, and keeping the ball centered in
ground
>effect means bringing in enough right pedal to yaw the plane noticeably on
the
>centerline. Should I lift the nose at, say, 45 mph and then let
acceleration
>do the rest as we pass minimum flying speed?
>
>What is the best short field approach speed? How much power to hold with
>that?
>Soft-field T/O with or without partial flaps?
>
>Thanks, intrepid aviators. I want to do the best job of airmanship I can,
>next time I fly. Your tips are appreciated.
>
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A
>western VA
________________________________________________________________________________
Wonder if the government has an MSDS sheet for Peroxicare Toothpaste?
Regards
Wendell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Paint booth ideas? |
At the risk of doing irreperable damage to the New Zealand Tourism industry,
it's the middle of winter here, and the temperature is rarely getting above
6 degrees C this far south, let alone the 10 degrees C needed before I can
spray Imron 830 (which is great by the way - goes on like a dream and is
near bulletproof!). Last time I sprayed was a week ago, and it's driving me
nuts watching the thermometer. I've been spraying outside, but now am
starting to think seriously about building a small paint booth for the
inside of my (non-insulated) workshop. The Imron requires a dual filter
mask but is non carcinogenic and non isocyante based. I'm using a HVLP
conversion gun (which incidentally has worked VERY well so far, best NZ$150
I ever spent) on my 12cfpm compressor, so there's not a lot of overspray,
but I am worried about getting a fine layer of primer over everything if I
start spraying inside.
I'm thinking along the lines of an open top, four sided enclosure (something
about the size of a normal door lying down on sawhorses) with a mesh wire
shelf, and an (sparkless) extractor fan exhausting to a wooden baffle box to
capture overspray, then exhausting to the outside. But what about the
heating problem? If I put a non thermostat (= no sparks) oil filled heated
inside the box and put a lid on it, I could prewarm the parts and
surrounding air to a suitable temperature before spraying.
Does anyone have any ideas, alternatives, or horror stories regarding small
spray booths? My final paint job will probably be done at a professional
shop, but I want to do the priming myself.
Hey, what am I worried about the Tourism industry for? We got great skiing,
RV builders are spending all their money on their RV's or workshop, not
travel, and the US$ buys 2 NZ$.... great for the American listers, lousy for
us Kiwis, my -8 project nearly doubled in all up cost.... *ouch*
Chris
Dunedin, New Zealand
RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8aviator(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 builders in germany |
Hi Helga, das wuerde mich auch interressieren wieviel RV8 builder wier in
deutschland haben. Ich bin duetsch-americaner, lebe in florida, habe eine
Mooney
und fange grade an eine RV8 zu bauen. Greetings, walter Eisenmann
MooneyBum(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
<< For short fields
you can go to 65 MPH, >>
Not to intrude, but has Bill calibrated the ASI already? He might want to if
he uses a speed of 65MPH indicated. I would hate to see him get too slow too
close to the ground. After all, he is in the test phase, correct?
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
Hi Bill,
I've only been able to put 15 hours on my -6a, for various reasons (weather,
inspections, new baby) and I also started out using 90 mph IAS in the pattern,
as this was how Mike Seager instructed. I've found that I'm more comfortable
using 80 mph and 20 degrees of flap on downwind, and 30 degrees on final. I've
watched my airspeed during the short final-roundout-flare, and find that
usually when I'm just off the end of the runway and I know I've got it made, I
go ahead and reduce power to idle. Usually, just as I cross the threshold I'm
down to 70-75 mph, and as I start the round out-flare I'm down to around 65.
I've got a c/s prop and my cg is in the forward range (empty weight 1078 lbs,
cg 68.6" aft of spinner tip) so it's taken a little practice to learn how
aggressive I need to be with the stick during the flare to hold the nose wheel
off for as long as possible. For my take-offs I hold full up elevator untill I
feel the nosewheel get light, then I try to hold this untill she flies off,
usually the mains will clear at about 60-65 mph IAS, then accelerate to 90 for
initial climb out. I haven't practiced any short field take offs or landings
yet, I'm still checking out the handling at max wt's and aft cg's, and low
airspeed accelerated stalls. I know it's not much info, but maybe it'll help.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Willemssen" <cwillems(at)isd.net> |
| Subject: | RV's at Davenport, Iowa Thunderbirds show |
Hey-
I was wondering if any fellow RV builders are planning to fly to the
airshow in Davenport at the end of this month. Weather permitting, I
plan to fly an RV-6A there. Has anyone flown into Davenport for this
show? I am curious about various fly-in details. Please respond
off-list (cwillems(at)isd.com) if you might be of assistance or whatever.
Thanks.
builders are
planning to fly to the airshow in Davenport at the end of this
into
Please respond off-list (| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
When I find myself having trouble landing any airplane it is nearly always
because I am not slowing it down. The best way to determine the landing
speed for a strange airplane is to set up in landing config and stall it.
This will tell you what a particular airplane stalls at with all it's
pitot/static errors etc. Take this speed and multiply by 1.3. If it is 55
use 72 as a wings level on final speed.
For short field landing you can use 1.2 but I wouldnt unless you are very
comfortable in the airplane. I would still use 1.3 nearly always.
As for takeoffs, raise the nose early in the take off roll and let the
airplane fly off when it is ready. If you think your roll is too long raise
the nose more. Do not get in the habit of rotating in single engine
airplanes, that's for twins.
One thing that puzzles me is your comment about how fast your RV comes down.
Typically RV's tend to be floaters and gliders. If you have a constant
speed prop and the low pitch stops are set too low, it can behave as a huge
air brake. I flew a T-28 that the prop dome had been installed one tooth
off. At idle the prop was in reverse. I could not land it to save my butt.
Reseting the low pitch made a wonderful difference.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal ATP CFI MEI
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wallace R. Penney" <wallyp(at)interlog.com> |
| Subject: | Another RV-8 Takes to the Air |
This is just a note to say that Charlie Douma's brand new RV-8, CG-CSQ, took to
the air for the first time tonight from Brampton Flying Club, just outside Toronto.
This is Charlie's third RV, having already built an RV-4 followed by an
RV-3. Charlie reported that the plane was a delight to fly and that everything
worked well in this IO-360 powered machine. Doug Buchanon flew chase in his
RV-4 and his son Todd took lots of video from the back seat. Charlie's 8 joins
four RV-3's, two RV-4's and three RV-6's (under construction) at BFC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding Ribs, Best technique? |
> 1. Using Dremel tool with router bit 650 (or equivalent) I do the rough
> filing. It works especially well in the circular areas and at the corners.
I used my Scotch Brite wheel on the bench grinder for this. A couple of passed
on
each edge removes the shearing marks and polishes the edge super smooth. The
corners can also be done but with a little more careful work.
>
>
> 2. Using Scotch Medium Wheel on bench grinder I deburr the edges of the
> circular cutouts. I use the Dremel tool to deburr the rest.
Get yourself a mandrel and small Scotch bright wheel and stick it in your die
grinder. This works in about 10 seconds to debur the lightening holes and polish
the edge of the holes. I find that the grooves left in the wheel actually speed
things up.
> 3. Then I use medium grit emery cloth to fine sand the piece and
> occasionally a round file in the corners.
Why are you sanding your ribs? Any big scratches can be polished out with the
Scotch wheel mounted in your die grinder. Then wash the ribs/parts in simple green
using a green scotch pad (as scrubber) to rid the parts of oil, rinse and then
etch in alumi-prep then prime.
> 4. I use the Avery double sided deburring tool.
There is no known method to fast deburring.
> 7. Then I stand there about five to ten minutes trying to think of an
> easier/quicker way.
This standing around is going to make the project last for years. It should only
take about 10 minutes per rib (sans priming) to ready for paint.
Gary Zilik, Pine Junction CO.
6A - getting ready for the top fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS814 and rib clearance |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>So here's a Tell-Me-Why question for the list - why have the tabs in
>the
>first place? Do the tabs make the 814 inherently stronger than the
>'tab-less' style of the 810? If so, why? Or do the trimmed tab stubs
>fill
>some later function when joining the empennage to the fuselage?
>
Ok, I'll fess-up.
As I think Moe eluded to; way back when the design work was done on the
RV-6(A) it was found that some builders had slightly short edge distance
on the bolt that goes through that portion of the angle and then down
through the longeron.
This is because the RV-6(A) horizontal stab skins actually overhang
inboard over the fuselage (does that make sense?).
When doing the design work on the RV-8 The tail kit was worked up before
the fuselage kit design work was finished. Since the fuselage width
profile was going to change slightly from what it was on the original
blue prototype, engineering wanted to make sure we would not have a
repeat of what happened on the RV-6. So they added a little extra for
good measure.
We now know (from building our 2 prototypes, and the experiences of the
first few builders to fit emp. to fuse) that it was more than necessary
which is why there is a note in the plans to trim these tabs back just
enough to clear the skin and the rib flange.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
also, last year at Oshkosh, there was,
>count 'em ONE Zodiac there, and about 350 RV's (correct me if I am
>wrong on
>the RV numbers, guys)
>
Actually it was 279 (as far as we know).
279 or 350 either way it is a bunch.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>What is the best short field approach speed? How much power to hold
>with
>that?
>Soft-field T/O with or without partial flaps?
>
>Thanks, intrepid aviators. I want to do the best job of airmanship I
>can,
>next time I fly. Your tips are appreciated.
>
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A
>western VA
>
>
>
Bill,
Do you have a fixed pitch prop. or a constant speed?
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeronautical ideas in a 8th grade class |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>My niece (trece(at)pld.com) teaches 8th grade and would like to include
>something aeronautical in her integrated math and science class next
>fall.
>The hopes to inspire some interest in aviation. Can anyone offer
>suggestions for projects or leads to materials she might use?
>
>Charles Woodson
>http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
>
>
Give her a phone number to call EAA. I think they have a lot of
ideas/programs that can be used for kids.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LLOYD G SMITHEY" <SMITHEY(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV Accident |
----------
> From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: N58RV Accident
> Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 17:06 PM
>
>
>
> >My post must not be as clear as I intended. It is not my intention to
> >"speculate on the cause" but to understand possible causes of simila
>
> Charles, I think your post was clear and constructive. Discussion on and
of
> accidents have always been helpful
The most probable cause seems to be a snap roll far above max.
man. speed.
this could account for every thing the observer saw and heard. But lets
wait for the NTSB report. I feel bad about replying to this but I could not
help myself.
Lloyd Smithey
dreaming of an RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Sanding Ribs, Best technique? |
> Then wash the ribs/parts in simple green using a green scotch pad (as scrubber)
> to rid the parts of oil, rinse and then etch in alumi-prep then prime.
In my regular job, Simple Green is prohibited for washing anything on the aircraft
due to the possibility of "hydrogen embrittlement" of the metal. Maybe it
just hasn't gone through the Mil-Spec approval process? Anyway, some cleaners
are pretty rough on aluminum. I once tried to degrease a model airplane engine
crankcase with Formula 409. It removed the grease, and the top layer of aluminum
was permanently etched to a dull gray.
Also, I've been told to avoid the green Scotch Pads that may leave microscopic
pieces of abrasive in the aluminum that can cause corrosion, and to instead use
the brown or gray pads. Similar to using aluminum oxide sandpaper instead of
silicon carbide? Can anyone comment on this?
Darrell Anderson
RV-4 wings
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Solo construction |
| From: | "William H. Watson" <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> |
I have just finished the left wing and am now working on the right wing.
I have not had help on a single rivet. I haven't even had help lifting
anything - that will come for the first time when I need to remove the
finished left wing from the jig. I also used all driven rivets on the
wing walk.
Just make sure you get the Avery swivel-mushroom riveting head.
Otherwise, you will have more smiles that a Liberachi (spell?) re-run.
Bill
RV6A
MOUNTAIN VIEW, CA
>How much of the RV6A kit can be put together by one person. I have
>"permission" to build but this my hobby - not hers. She is willing
>to help of co
William H. Watson
wmwatson(at)earthlink.net
H: 650 254-1656
W: 408 553-4225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Rumor Mill |
<< With that large a percentage of Van's customers (or potential
customers), we could really cause some unintentional damage with open
speculation, couldn't we! >>
Since all engineers know that nature abhors a vacuum, Van's should get some
concrete info (and not spin) out here soon or the crowd could get ugly, and
IMO it has every right to.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in landing gear/motor mount on RV6 |
<< I've had a few during the 1095+ Hrs and I
don't know how many landings in my -6A, but so far, no cracks in that
area. But, next oil change, I'm going to look a lot closer.....
>>
Listers,
I thought this might be good time to mention that when it is time
to paint or powder coat your landing gear and engine mount assemblies that its
a good idea to use a light color. Colors such as gray or white will show
cracks easily, while colors such as black make cracks very hard to detect.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Paint Booth ideas? |
I'm thinking along the lines of an open top, four sided enclosure
(something
about the size of a normal door lying down on sawhorses) with a mesh wire
shelf, and an (sparkless) extractor fan exhausting to a wooden baffle box
to
capture overspray, then exhausting to the outside. But what about the
heating problem? If I put a non thermostat (= no sparks) oil filled heated
inside the box and put a lid on it, I could prewarm the parts and
surrounding air to a suitable temperature before spraying.
Being in the same situation, but on the other end of the planet, I built
just about the same kind of "winter" paint booth that you have. The
problem I found was that I did not allow for a large enough air "intake"
vent to allow my exhaust fan to work properly (made quite a nice vuccumn
though). What I ended up doing was make a larger hole with a filter over
it to accomodate the flow of air that the exhaust fan was trying to
generate. Worked better. Pleased spouse.
BTW (Other listers) - Spent honeymoon with spouse on the South Island of NZ
(Tasman Downs - lake Pukaki) and feel that if there was ever a reason to
install long-rage tanks on an RV it would be to renturn there. It is one
of the finer places on the planet, covered with people to match.
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
RV8 Wings on Wait
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's at Davenport, Iowa Thunderbirds show |
>
>
>
>Hey-
>
>Has anyone flown into Davenport for this
>show? I am curious about various fly-in details.
Chris and all,
The Quad City Airshow at Davenport Iowa is one of the Top Airshows in the
country. I have flown in many times and will be there this year as well.
(flying a B25 not an RV-4) Check the Notams to find Airport closing times
and that is really all you will need to know. It will be busy there so make
it a heads up operation. The fighters are always out playing somewhere in
the morning and they even let us bombers fly once in a while ;-). Any
listers that show up stop by the B-25 the silver "Miss Mitchell" and
introduce yourselves.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weichert, Wolfgang" <Wolfgang.Weichert(at)nrc.ca> |
| Subject: | Cracks in landing gear/motor mount on RV6 |
There were several replies to my post about cracks in the landing
gear/motor mount of our RV6, some with questions.
There was one report of similar cracks on an RV6 at about 200hrs.
First to answer the few questions:
We have done very few wheel landings, the majority of landings are
3-pointers.
We have occasional wheel shimmy, usually at a speed when you would just
think of turning off the runway, after braking. Tapping the brakes
usually stops it. This appears to occur on paved runways only, though it
is possible that we simply don't feel it on a grass strip.
I have had no private e-mail reports of similar fractures other than
what was sent to the list.
The engine mount on our RV is painted in a light grey color, which made
the detection of the cracks easy, as was also pointed out by Ryan
Bendure.
Some additional information may be helpful: We fly off a glider airport
which has some rough grass runways. In future we will avoid one of the
runways which is particularly rough. Over the last 20 years we have had
2 gear leg failures on our 2 Citabria tow planes. Those 2 planes have
done a total of about 20,000 landing cycles.
Our mount has been welded up and we will install it tomorrow. Our
vacation plans are centered around the airplane for a round trip from
Ottawa, Canada to Vancouver and return, starting on 29th June.
======================================
* Wolfgang Weichert System Support Unit
* Phone (613) 993-9589 Fax (613) 941-0175
* e-mail wolfgang.weichert(at)nrc.ca
======================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. E. Asher" <mcash(at)silverstar.com> |
who
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
<< Your tips are appreciated.
>
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A
>western VA
>
>
>
Bill,
Do you have a fixed pitch prop. or a constant speed?
Scott McDaniels >>
Many thanks to all who responded both on and off list to my quest for
knowledge. I have a handful of new ideas now and the confidence to try them
out next time I get to fly... When El Nino gets through messing with the
Virginias' weather system, I intend to do just that.
Several have asked what my particular setup was, and for the interset of any
other listers who might want to weigh in with their 2 cents worth, I offer the
following technical specs on my plane, which I should have included in the
first place:
RV-6A N30YD; Paint scheme inspired by "G-RIVT"
150 hp O-320
Sensenich fixed metal prop
Empty wt 1034 lbs
presently flying without wheel pants
7.7 hrs into the test program
home field 2300 ft MSL / 7000 ft paved rwy (LWB) Lewisburg, WV
All help appreciated.
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
Take this speed and multiply by 1.3. If it is 55
>use 72 as a wings level on final speed.
*That is what we were taught in every new aircraft we check on.
*Do you guys use power approaches as a normal operation? When
returned to general aviation about four years ago my instructor advised me
to carry power for the approaches. I had recalled from my last "light"
airplane flying back about 40 years that it was considered bad form to carry
power on final except for very special approaches, short field, etc. The
theory was that it set you up for using power for the judgement. And
thereby limiting judgement as to "am I going to make that field in an
emergency?" In the heavies it was naturally necessary to carry power.
What are your feeling on this....especially in the RV-6?
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hamilton McClymont <hammcc(at)istar.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Salmon Arm Fathers Day Fly in |
Ken:
I look forward to meeting you and all the other RVrs on Sunday. Mode of
transport will be green van (alas, Plymouth, not RV).
Fly safe everyone. Cheers,
Hammy
--
Lamont Management Inc
Vancouver, BC 604-684-7702
http://home.istar.ca/~hammcc/INDEX.HTM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Nolan <nv_nolan(at)apollo.commnet.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth ideas? |
>BTW (Other listers) - Spent honeymoon with spouse
Very good idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Rumor Mill |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Since all engineers know that nature abhors a vacuum, Van's should get
>some
>concrete info (and not spin) out here soon or the crowd could get
>ugly, and
>IMO it has every right to.
>
>-GV
>
>
>
This post makes it sound like you assume he is not working as fast as
possible to find an answer.
Your wrong!
I'm sure all members on this list realize that Van's Aircraft Inc. has a
much higher interest in finding an answer than any one single RV builder
customer, but I understand how it is easy to lose sight of that fact if
you have an RV-8 kit sitting in your shop.
Please be patient a little longer.
BTW I have resisted posting on this discussion until now, but I will not
post again so please don't direct any questions to me.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Rumor Mill |
>
>Since all engineers know that nature abhors a vacuum, Van's should get some
>concrete info (and not spin) out here soon or the crowd could get ugly, and
>IMO it has every right to.
>
>-GV
>
Imagine it was your company in the middle of this crisis. (whether you own
it or work for it your livelihood depends on it) Would you, or would you
want your boss to, ignore the advice of your lawyer and your insurance
company (who if you don't cooperate with can refuse coverage) and publish
all the companies laundry on a daily basis? I think not.
Sure we would like to "know" what happened. All outward appearances are
that no one "knows" what happened. This is not one of those, plane flies
into thunderstorm, plane falls out bottom of thunderstorm, case closed,
accidents. As I said before it is likely that we never will "know" the
whole story. I will not jump on anyone for asking questions, but I think in
this case Van's actions are defendable and probably the only option he has.
As for a vacuum, as much as nature abhors it, most of the universe is a
vacuum, and as for the "crowd," they can get as ugly as they like. That
won't change the speed at which lawyers tell us anything.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | EAA NORTHWEST FLY-IN-RV-4 FOR SALE |
I will be also flying my RV-4 in for the fly-in tomorrow at Scappoose, weather
permitting. I will have my RV-4 for sale, in order to finance my RV-8 project.
Look for the for sale sign and N107RV. 1985 Bakersfield built, 160 hp, wood
prop, 950 ttaf, 1900 tt engine, 40 hours on complete top overhaul, with high
compression pistons, work done by the late Everett Hatch. This aircraft is in
my opinion cleaner than average, rating about 8 out, 9.5 in. Sacrifice at
$34,500 firm. Has been flown daily. Would also consider selling without the
engine and prop at $27,500.
See you there!
Von Alexander
Independence, Or.
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
RV-8#544 Working on the gear box/fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. E. Asher" <mcash(at)silverstar.com> |
who
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
I'm getting ready to assemble my engine for my RV-3 (Lycoming O-290) and
wanted to know what everyone's opinions were on the best kind/brand of
engine enamel to use. Also, any "needs-to-know" in doing a good job of
prepping the engine for painting? I wouldn't even mind hearing your color
choices. . . .as if it matter?
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45 (starting spar mods, and firewall forward)
Socorro, NM
Rob Reece
Microcosm Manager - Rocket Engine Test Site (RTS),
& Scorpius Launch Coordinator/Liaison Engineer
Phone: (505) 835-5716
Fax: (505) 835-5714/5680
Email: reece(at)rt66.com
Microcosm Inc.
c/o Energetic Materials Research & Testing Center
Mail Station, New Mexico Institute of Mining Technology
Socorro, NM 87801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
> *Do you guys use power approaches as a normal operation? When
>returned to general aviation about four years ago my instructor advised me
>to carry power for the approaches. I had recalled from my last "light"
>airplane flying back about 40 years that it was considered bad form to
carry
>power on final except for very special approaches, short field, etc.
Editorial starts here:
Denny,
I don't carry power in my RV-4 because if I do it will never land. I
actually normally hold the throttle back to keep the engine as slow as
possible. Having said that in a heavy, IFR, constant speed, RV6 that I fly,
I carry just a touch of power. Back in time before mountains, electricity,
and indoor plumbing, when you learned, :-) most assumed that every landing
was an engine failure. When I learned (recently of course) with modern and
high tech engines of the '70's,(same ones you learned with, right?) I was
taught to fly the pattern at 1700 rpms. Part of this change comes from the
amount of flying that is done at tower controlled airports where we often
don't fly a pattern at all and need to keep speed up as much as possible.
What is not taught nearly as much as should be is the importance of getting
ALL the power off before landing. There are few exceptions to that rule,
but I see people land all the time with power on and then continue down the
runway and even apply brakes before getting ALL the power off. (pet peeve
here)
Engines don't quit nearly as much as they used to, and if take care of them
they quit even less. If you are flying a 300 hp turbo 6 cylinder you really
do want to carry some power in the pattern. If you have an IO-360 with
counter weights you may also want to carry power around the pattern. As
for the other 4 cylinder lycs, they can take the idle and I think it is
better form to do it power off. IMHO
Tailwinds, ATP CFI MEI
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
> *Do you guys use power approaches as a normal operation? When
>returned to general aviation about four years ago my instructor advised me
>to carry power for the approaches. I had recalled from my last "light"
>airplane flying back about 40 years that it was considered bad form to carry
>power on final except for very special approaches, short field, etc.
Yes indeed Denny.
I am old enough to remember when normal approaches were power off and
short-field approaches were power on (behind the power curve). Today the
FAA wants normal approaches to be power on and short-field approaches to
be power off. Just like clothes fashions, isn't it.
When I flew with Mike Seager we pulled the power to idle on downwind to
decelerate to flap speed then brought power on for the rest of the
approach until the flair. We did not do any power off approaches.
Being the scofflaw I am, I have been know to do it the old way. The
disadvantage of the old way is it may be harder on the engine. The
disadvantage of the new way is you are not going to make it to the runway
if the engine quits.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Mounting wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: PLEASE READ - Re: I'm Not Getting List Mail Anymore... |
If you suddenly stop receiving List mail, please surf over to
RV-List -> http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/index.html
Zenith-List -> http://www.matronics.com/zenith-list/index.html
and select the link intitled "Hey, I'm Not Getting List Mail Anymore".
This will take you to a new dynamic web page that lists in reverse order
every single email address that has been removed from the List. It also
lists a short description of why the email address was removed, i.e.
user unknown, mailbox full, etc. If you find your address listed with a
recent date stamp, rest assured your address has been removed from the
List. If you are confident that your email is working correctly again, there
are hyperlinks from this new page that allow you to easially resubscribe.
It's quick and easy!
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint booth ideas? |
Chris Hinch wrote:
>
>
> At the risk of doing irreperable damage to the New Zealand Tourism industry,
> it's the middle of winter here, and the temperature is rarely getting above
> 6 degrees C this far south, let alone the 10 degrees C needed before I can
> spray Imron 830 (which is great by the way - goes on like a dream and is
> near bulletproof!). Last time I sprayed was a week ago, and it's driving me
> nuts watching the thermometer.
Hello Chris
I was having the same feelings in January of 1995 here in Ohio. I
finally went to a local auto repair shop with a paint booth. He let me
use it for 20 dollars one evening. He furnished the compressed air with
that. I primed my entire fuse in parts. The next day it was back on
the jig and starting to rivit.
Call some shops.
John Kitz
N721JK
215 hours
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)geon.com> |
| Subject: | Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
Another 2 cents on the issue of landing and patterns... I was taught to
keep the pattern as close as reasonably possible (for glide to airport
in the event of engine out). Nowdays, students fly so far out they may
as well be making IFR approaches! Really annoying...
Bryan Jones, Pearland, TX
RV-8 80313, attaching fuse top skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Enamels? |
Rob:
Strip the engine components to bare metal using paint stripper. Clean
completely first with lacquer thinner and then with Dupont's 3812S enamel
thinner. Mask off all that you do not want painted. Use Randolph's Engine
enamel (I used Lycoming gray). Do not use a primer!! Then bake the
components at 200 degrees for 2 hours (believe it or not, I used my wife's
oven and you can squeeze the various pieces in one by one.) My engine
(installed on a Citabria) has now 100 hrs since this paint job and it looks
like new. It should not peel or chip using this process.
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
>
>I'm getting ready to assemble my engine for my RV-3 (Lycoming O-290) and
>wanted to know what everyone's opinions were on the best kind/brand of
>engine enamel to use. Also, any "needs-to-know" in doing a good job of
>prepping the engine for painting? I wouldn't even mind hearing your color
>choices. . . .as if it matter?
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN 45 (starting spar mods, and firewall forward)
>Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Enamels? |
>I'm getting ready to assemble my engine for my RV-3 (Lycoming O-290) and
>wanted to know what everyone's opinions were on the best kind/brand of
>engine enamel to use. Also, any "needs-to-know" in doing a good job of
>prepping the engine for painting? I wouldn't even mind hearing your color
>choices. . . .as if it matter?
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN 45 (starting spar mods, and firewall forward)
>Socorro, NM
Rob,
John Schwaner had some interesting thoughts on engine painting in his "Sky
Ranch Engineering Manual", chapter 3, pages 203-206. I highly recommend
this book and have found a lot of helpful engine tips in it.
He recommends alodining the case and cylinder cooling fins. Alodining is
easier, faster, cheaper and helps with engine cooling. He does give tips
for painting, as well. I overhauled my O-320 and if I had it to do over
again, I think I'd go the alodine route.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
ditions are nasty. At Buffalo, the locals advised not to use the
first third of the runway when landing. I kind of figured this out by
myself when I hit a couple of "sinkers" when landing to the south:( Air
over the mountains can do some pretty interesting things.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piloting tips requested: RV-6A |
Back in time before mountains, electricity,
>and indoor plumbing, when you learned, :-) most assumed that every landing
>was an engine failure.
*When Orville and I were learning, ;^( ,we agreed you can't count
on them engines.....
I agree that it is much easier to carry the standard 1700 rpm and in
most cases I believe this good enough. I keep seeing these airplane after
engine out landing, that are shown fairly frequently in our papers around
here. They generally show this airplane laying on its back in some farmers
field. And the caption generally says something like "there was no fuel
found in the tank" or "the pilot report he heard a noise and it quit" or
"carburator ice is suspected". What bothers me in this is they all seem to
end up on there back. There was one this morning in the paper. What I keep
wondering could the airplane been save in some cases, after the originating
cause, if the the pilot would have been use to no power landings....
I am mostly wondering what can I expect the sink rate will be in
this machine with no power and a C/S prop, And what the approximate CAS for
a minumum rate descent, before the first test flight. Will Mike teach that
proceedure?
Speaking Of no power approaches, in 1966 I was getting a check ride
in a CL-44. I made an approach in to Mojave airport and there sat in the
sand right off the approach end was a very polished American Airlines 727.
My check pilot asked another AA aircraft in the pattern what happened. The
answer was one Check Capt. was giving another Check Capt. a check ride. The
checker said "you lost all power (simulated), where you going to land?" We
were told this was a favorite surprise for this check Capt. to pull. " I can
make it to Mojave from this altitude", was the answer. When they discovered
they weren't quite going to do it, they tried to spool up and got nothing.
But they sure were close.....when they stopped...
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loren D. Jones" <Loren(at)LorenJones.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Rumor Mill |
I think Van is trying to give as what he can. If you monitor their web
site, there have been three updates since the accident. It appears they are
trying to give as much information as they can. (They've also setup a
mirror site to handle the excess traffic this has evidently created.)
Loren
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, June 19, 1998 1:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Rumor Mill
>
>
><< With that large a percentage of Van's customers (or potential
> customers), we could really cause some unintentional damage with open
> speculation, couldn't we! >>
>
>Since all engineers know that nature abhors a vacuum, Van's should get some
>concrete info (and not spin) out here soon or the crowd could get ugly, and
>IMO it has every right to.
>
>-GV
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Rumor Mill |
I remember when it was just women that gossiped
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
hi there,
i found that the paint on my brand new lycoming 0-360 cames off very easy
by just sratching it with the fingernail.it seems they
don't use any primer at all .this is not only on the rockercovers but on
all surfaces.is this normal or did i get a lemon??
if more people have this problem one should let lycoming know .i'am now
getting the rockercovers chromeplated...
Karl Ahamer
Sydney RV6AQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Enamels? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>I'm getting ready to assemble my engine for my RV-3 (Lycoming O-290)
>and
>wanted to know what everyone's opinions were on the best kind/brand of
>engine enamel to use. Also, any "needs-to-know" in doing a good job
>of
>prepping the engine for painting? I wouldn't even mind hearing your
>color
>choices. . . .as if it matter?
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN 45 (starting spar mods, and firewall forward)
>Socorro, NM
>
Rob,
I will tell you one thing "not to do".
A friend once decided it would be neat to have a bright red Lycoming
engine in his RV.
So he bought some bright red engine enamel at the auto parts store.
>From the day of the first flight through at least his whole test flight
period the paint out gassed.
It was very easy to see were all air that exited the cowling was going.
It stained the white paint on the belly, fuselage sides, and some of the
cowling.
I have had pretty good results with the Tempo brand Lycoming Gray.
In fact from what I have seen of the paint finishes on the brand new
Lycomings I would guess that the last thing they do is hit them with a
spray can and drop them in the box.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard S. Ward" <ward(at)hyperspectral.com> |
| Subject: | Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
I made my first flight of my RV4, N3321L, last May 15, 1998. Wow, what an
airplane, it is everything Van said it was! I now have 21 hours on it.
Keep buckin' those rivets, payday will come!!
I have one perplexing problem that puzzles everyone I ask.
During rapid climbs my fuel pressure drops about a psi per 1000'. At sea
level it is typically 6 psi; when I climb rapidly (> 2000'/min) to 4500' or
5000' it drops to 1 psi where I have my MicroMonitor set to initiate an
alarm. Sometimes it will even go to zero. After several minutes it will
rise back to 2 psi. Sometimes it will go back to 4 or 5 psi. Turning on the
boost pump will always raise the pressure back in the 4-5 psi range.
The other day I was doing lazy eights and discovered I can make it happen
every time. At the peaks (1300-1500 ft rise) the pressure drops one psi;
when diving back down it increases.
Other observations & info:
1. The vent lines are per the plans and are clear. The vent line ports are
orthogonal to the air flow.
2. Pressure is being measured between the mechanical fuel pump and carb.
3. One may think it is the sensor, but the pressure goes up when turning
on the boost pump.
4. This is opposite of the normal problem, i.e., rapid descents with
clogged vent lines causes a vacuum in the fuel tank.
5. A valid fuel pressure range is 0.5 to 8 psi. O-320-D1A.
6. My MicroMonitor only has single digit resolution,i.e., 0,1,2,3,... psi;
therefore I set the alarm at 1.
7. If I leave the boost pump off and leave the pressure low, the engine
still runs
8. The problem is independent of tank. Each tank has its own filter.
Of course the mechanical fuel pump could be bad but since it is new, that
is kinda my last choice. This obviously smells of a differential pressure
problem but I can't put my finger on it.
Have any of you guys out there seen this problem??
Thanks,
-- Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: engine enamels |
> i found that the paint on my brand new lycoming 0-360 cames off very easy
> by just sratching it with the fingernail.
Yes mine is the same way. Mine is one that was built by management
during the strike. I don't know if that has anything to do with it
however. Someone told me that Lycoming seems to just stick on there
whatever they can get cheap as it changes from time to time. The paint
on my buddy's O-360 which was built "pre-strike" looks like it has
a different gloss to it but I don't know if it's tougher or not.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Rumor Mill |
I agree with those who think that Vans is probably doing everything
possible to find out and tell us what went terribly wrong that morning in
Blythe a few weeks ago. I appreciate the difficulty of trying to piece
together the apparently very limited information into a rational and
accurate explanation. And I understand the concern about rumors and how
easily they are to start. Look what happened this last week when someone
facetiously said Vans was giving away Lycoming engines. I also appreciate
the legal concerns. In todays sue everyone climate, the last thing we want
to do is give ammunition to those who make a living distorting the truth and
extorting fortunes out of conscientious and creative people who make our
dreams possible.
But I am very uncomfortable with the STOP THE RUMOR MILL reaction to any
attempt to try to understand the possible ways this could happen. If we can
t talk about it here -- suggest possibilities and ask questions of those
obviously more knowledgeable than ourselves about structural and aerodynamic
questions, then where can we do it? What group of people has more interest,
more knowledge, and more at stake than an RV forum? Some of us are or are
going to be putting our butts on the line in a very real way in these
machines, and we have not just the right but the responsibility to
understand as much as we can about what can go wrong.
We also have to be prepared to face the very real possibility perhaps the
probability that we will never know just what happened. All the resources
of the NTSB and Boeing have not been able to come up with definitive answers
to a couple of their tragic losses.
So I suggest the following: Respect the victims and their families; be
patient with those who are digging hard to find the answers we so badly
need, remember and acknowledge speculation for what it is and squash rumors
quickly without verbally assassinating those who dare to venture an opinion.
Then lets get on with sharing what is known and what is not. I thought the
discussions of flutter were very helpful. If the Air Force taught me about
flutter in aerodynamics classes 30 plus years ago, its completely gone by
now. I have pulled enough gs to black out with a g suit on, but I dont
remember discussing or even thinking about the effects on the structure of
rolling gs. There is a tremendous amount of useful knowledge in the people
using this list. Lets not silence the best because we dont want to hear a
hypothesis that might not turn out to be proven true.
Terry Watson
RV-8 tail
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
Mine does exactly the same thing. I have the same setup as yours only with an
0360a1a
chet 65 hours now
Richard S. Ward wrote:
>
> I made my first flight of my RV4, N3321L, last May 15, 1998. Wow, what an
> airplane, it is everything Van said it was! I now have 21 hours on it.
> Keep buckin' those rivets, payday will come!!
>
> I have one perplexing problem that puzzles everyone I ask.
>
> During rapid climbs my fuel pressure drops about a psi per 1000'. At sea
> level it is typically 6 psi; when I climb rapidly (> 2000'/min) to 4500' or
> 5000' it drops to 1 psi where I have my MicroMonitor set to initiate an
> alarm. Sometimes it will even go to zero. After several minutes it will
> rise back to 2 psi. Sometimes it will go back to 4 or 5 psi. Turning on the
> boost pump will always raise the pressure back in the 4-5 psi range.
>
> The other day I was doing lazy eights and discovered I can make it happen
> every time. At the peaks (1300-1500 ft rise) the pressure drops one psi;
> when diving back down it increases.
>
> Other observations & info:
> 1. The vent lines are per the plans and are clear. The vent line ports are
> orthogonal to the air flow.
> 2. Pressure is being measured between the mechanical fuel pump and carb.
> 3. One may think it is the sensor, but the pressure goes up when turning
> on the boost pump.
> 4. This is opposite of the normal problem, i.e., rapid descents with
> clogged vent lines causes a vacuum in the fuel tank.
> 5. A valid fuel pressure range is 0.5 to 8 psi. O-320-D1A.
> 6. My MicroMonitor only has single digit resolution,i.e., 0,1,2,3,... psi;
> therefore I set the alarm at 1.
> 7. If I leave the boost pump off and leave the pressure low, the engine
> still runs
> 8. The problem is independent of tank. Each tank has its own filter.
>
> Of course the mechanical fuel pump could be bad but since it is new, that
> is kinda my last choice. This obviously smells of a differential pressure
> problem but I can't put my finger on it.
>
> Have any of you guys out there seen this problem??
>
> Thanks,
>
> -- Rich
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stop the Rumor Mill |
I agree completely with Terry. Lets be rational and reasonable, and let us
also try to learn what we can, because we have a very legitimate need to know
how to proceed with our projects. I for one am not completely comfortable
with just blindly proceeding with my 8a, without having the best facts that
can be dug out of the tragedy. So---I am awaiting the studies, presuming there
will be info on which to base my decision as to how to proceed.
hilljw(at)aol.com
Jimmy
8a tail finished, wings in box.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
It sound like the static port on the pressure transducer could be
clogged or restricted.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem
Date: 19-06-98 17:18
I made my first flight of my RV4, N3321L, last May 15, 1998. Wow, what an
airplane, it is everything Van said it was! I now have 21 hours on it.
Keep buckin' those rivets, payday will come!!
I have one perplexing problem that puzzles everyone I ask.
During rapid climbs my fuel pressure drops about a psi per 1000'. At sea
level it is typically 6 psi; when I climb rapidly (> 2000'/min) to 4500' or
5000' it drops to 1 psi where I have my MicroMonitor set to initiate an
alarm. Sometimes it will even go to zero. After several minutes it will
rise back to 2 psi. Sometimes it will go back to 4 or 5 psi. Turning on the
boost pump will always raise the pressure back in the 4-5 psi range.
The other day I was doing lazy eights and discovered I can make it happen
every time. At the peaks (1300-1500 ft rise) the pressure drops one psi;
when diving back down it increases.
Other observations & info:
1. The vent lines are per the plans and are clear. The vent line ports are
orthogonal to the air flow.
2. Pressure is being measured between the mechanical fuel pump and carb.
3. One may think it is the sensor, but the pressure goes up when turning
on the boost pump.
4. This is opposite of the normal problem, i.e., rapid descents with
clogged vent lines causes a vacuum in the fuel tank.
5. A valid fuel pressure range is 0.5 to 8 psi. O-320-D1A.
6. My MicroMonitor only has single digit resolution,i.e., 0,1,2,3,... psi;
therefore I set the alarm at 1.
7. If I leave the boost pump off and leave the pressure low, the engine
still runs
8. The problem is independent of tank. Each tank has its own filter.
Of course the mechanical fuel pump could be bad but since it is new, that
is kinda my last choice. This obviously smells of a differential pressure
problem but I can't put my finger on it.
Have any of you guys out there seen this problem??
Thanks,
-- Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
Yes I have seen this pressure problem.
It turned out to be the eng driven pump
was bypassing too much fuel. I take it
your boost pump is feeding the eng pump?
Or do you have them in parallel?
RVer273sb in Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loren D. Jones" <Loren(at)LorenJones.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth ideas? |
>
>I'm thinking along the lines of an open top, four sided enclosure
>(something
>about the size of a normal door lying down on sawhorses) with a mesh wire
>shelf, and an (sparkless) extractor fan exhausting to a wooden baffle box
>to
>capture overspray, then exhausting to the outside. But what about the
>heating problem? If I put a non thermostat (= no sparks) oil filled heated
>inside the box and put a lid on it, I could prewarm the parts and
>surrounding air to a suitable temperature before spraying.
>
>
>
>Being in the same situation, but on the other end of the planet, I built
>just about the same kind of "winter" paint booth that you have. The
>problem I found was that I did not allow for a large enough air "intake"
>vent to allow my exhaust fan to work properly (made quite a nice vuccumn
>though). What I ended up doing was make a larger hole with a filter over
>it to accomodate the flow of air that the exhaust fan was trying to
>generate. Worked better. Pleased spouse.
>
I've built one identical to the one described above with a major (220V)
squirrel cage blower. The intake is definitely an issue, so I'm putting a
furnace filter over a nearby window for intake. The seems to work well.
The question is: I'm not sure what I'll do in the winter. I'll have to
figure out a way to run the intake through some kind of warming process or
it will drop the temp pretty quick. Any thoughts?
Loren
Just starting tail....and enjoying summer in Minnesota.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard S. Ward" <ward(at)hyperspectral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
At 08:26 AM 6/20/98 , you wrote:
> It sound like the static port on the pressure transducer could be
> clogged or restricted.
>
Yeah, I've thought about this, but the fact that pressure goes right up
when turn the boost pump tells me the sensor is ok. Am I missing
something here??
-- Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
> During rapid climbs my fuel pressure drops about a psi per 1000'. At sea
> level it is typically 6 psi; when I climb rapidly (> 2000'/min) to 4500'
or
> 5000' it drops to 1 psi where I have my MicroMonitor set to initiate an
> alarm. Sometimes it will even go to zero. After several minutes it will
> rise back to 2 psi. Sometimes it will go back to 4 or 5 psi. Turning on
the
> boost pump will always raise the pressure back in the 4-5 psi range.
Richard,
It seems as though the pressure regulator, which I presume is built in to
the mech. fuel pump (A&P's, is this true?), is not venting properly (the
non-fuel side of the diaphragm needs to vent for typical regulators to
work). Painted over perhaps? All speculation based upon my complete
ignorance of A/C fuel pumps, but this would fit all of your observations.
Please let us know.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Wings for sale |
I just visited with my friend, Art Chard, who worked for Van's for many
years (and the builder of the forunner of the RV-6), and he told me he still
has a set of RV-4 wings for sale. He is moving to Montana shortly and would
like to get them sold so he won't have to move them. They are complete:
fuel tanks, flaps & ailerons. He'd like around $10,000 for them but may
take less. Make a reasonable offer. His phone number in North Plains is:
503-647-9803.
Art's a great craftsman so I know any buyer would be pleased with the
workmanship. On a lot of the wings he builds, he uses one piece top skins.
I'm assuming this set is so equipped but don't know for sure.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
>
> Yeah, I've thought about this, but the fact that pressure goes right up
> when turn the boost pump tells me the sensor is ok. Am I missing
> something here??
>
> -- Rich
Maybe I missed it but I didn't see you say anything about whether
you were changing power settings or not. At full power such as in
a climb there will not be as much fuel pressure as there is in say
2200-2400 rpm cruse. I don't know all the details as to why but I see
this same thing on my -6 and in allot of low wing airplanes with aux.
pumps I instruct in. Normally in a hard climb I see 1-2lbs.in my -6.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth ideas? |
>The question is: I'm not sure what I'll do in the winter. I'll have to
>figure out a way to run the intake through some kind of warming process or
>it will drop the temp pretty quick. Any thoughts?
Attics and and crawl spaces under the floor can be great sources of heat
tempered air -- the crawlspace will be cooler in the summer and warmer in
the winter. The attic may be warmer, summer and winter. In Minnesota, I'm
not so sure about whether warmer in winter would be enough.
Terry
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Cleveland brake springs |
The other day I posted that my passenger side brake master cylinders
had never been fully cycled so the springs had never been compressed,
but were short at 3.5". On thinking further, I realised I HAD cycled
them when checking clearance from the rudder pedals. Maybe Van is
right and I had done the damage myself.
I took one of the old springs, stretched it to 4.0", then compressed
it fully. It relaxed back to 3.0".
As vanremog said, "Sheeesh!"
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
I thought I would share with you an experience I had with my RV4 while
taking a Avid Flyer pilot for a ride.
We were tooling along at about 180 mph when he asked if he could fly the
airplane. I said yes and released the stick. He promptly GRABBED hold of
it and pulled BACK as quick as he could. The plane shot straight up and my
head began competing with my balls for the limited seat space available. With
every once of energy I had left I wrestled the stick away from this idiot. The
G forces experienced were more than I had ever seen before.
I excitedly asked him, WHAT THE F--- DO YOU THINK YOU'RE DOING!
His comment was -" Boy, this things touchy"- I informed him that he wasn't
flying a dump truck and to never touch the stick on my airplane again. I believe
if I could have gotten hold of his neck, I would have choked the living s--- out
of him. Before this flight I thought he was an above average homebuilder and
an excellent pilot. Afterwards, I thought he flew a kite and was a blooming
idiot.
I thought I'd tell you this story to let you know that strange things can
happen in LEVEL FLIGHT.
P.S. I haven't spoken to the SOB since that flight. And yes, it was that
scary an event. I was more than grateful I had wings left on the airplane.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
I know of at least 2 T-18's that have had their wing skins wrinkled by just
such an event. Know and brief anyone that you take for a ride, regardless of
what kind of airplane you are flying.
Wally Hunt
RV-4, installing engine, canopy and instruments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
>
>
> Maybe I missed it but I didn't see you say anything about whether
> you were changing power settings or not. At full power such as in
> a climb there will not be as much fuel pressure as there is in say
> 2200-2400 rpm cruse. I don't know all the details as to why but I see
> this same thing on my -6 and in allot of low wing airplanes with aux.
> pumps I instruct in. Normally in a hard climb I see 1-2lbs.in my -6.
> --
> Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
> jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
Me too. Always happens./ I just assumed it was high demand and gravity ( steep
pitch angle) whch caused the lower pressure; consequently I use the boost pump
for climbs and takeoff/ patterns.
D Walsh O360A1A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
> 1. The vent lines are per the plans and are clear. The vent line ports
> are orthogonal to the air flow.
FWIW I believe the plans for my -6AQ call for the fuel vents to terminate in an
AN bulkhead fitting that's ground off at an angle so the opening faces into the
relative wind. As a relatively inexpensive experiment you could try this on one
fuel vent and see if it helps.
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Enamels? |
>Rob,
> John Schwaner had some interesting thoughts on engine painting in his "Sky
>Ranch Engineering Manual", chapter 3, pages 203-206. I highly recommend
>this book and have found a lot of helpful engine tips in it.
> He recommends alodining the case and cylinder cooling fins. Alodining is
>easier, faster, cheaper and helps with engine cooling.
I got out my Sky Ranch Engineering Manual and reread this section. When you
alodine I guess all parts are coated, inside and out? And How hard is it to
do this? Are there any special precautions? Also, the Cylinders are steel
and the heads aluminum. You still alodine the steel cylinders? and How?
Inside and out? I guess you have to brush it on the outside in this
scenario?
Shelby in Nashville.
RV6A -fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
<< 8. The problem is independent of tank. Each tank has its own filter.
Of course the mechanical fuel pump could be bad but since it is new, that
is kinda my last choice. This obviously smells of a differential pressure
problem but I can't put my finger on it.
Have any of you guys out there seen this problem??
Thanks, >>
Rich,
You dont mention what kind of engine your running. We have a guy at
Longmont who had the same problem. He was running an 0360 FP with an Ellison
TBI. He changed the mechanical pump several times with no help. Changed all
the fuel lines no help. Fire sleeved all the fuel lines no help.
When you say the problem is independent of each tank does that mean you only
have a problem on one tank?
I came over one day and put a vynal hose on the vent on the fuselage fitting,
blew into it and compared one side to the other. We decided that one side had
quite a bit more resistance then the other so we remved the tank and began
searching. What we found was that durring assembly a large glob of proseal had
covered the end of the vent in the tank. Once that was cleaned up he hasnt had
any problems. No guarantee's but it will give you one more thing to look at.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
***snip***
JimNolan wrote:
>
> I thought I'd tell you this story to let you know that strange things can
> happen in LEVEL FLIGHT.
> P.S. I haven't spoken to the SOB since that flight. And yes, it was that
> scary an event. I was more than grateful I had wings left on the airplane.
>
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
>
OK as long as we are admitting to things that have happened to us in
our RV's, I will tell what happened in mine. I had a guy from where I
work with me and we were doing some maneuvering when he decided he needed
to grab hold of something, you guessed it the control stick. the g meter
showed well over 5g, if we had been going faster this could have been
a bad day.
Another time I had a very experienced RV-4 pilot with me and he wanted to
get some stick time with my -6. He decided to to do a roll, when we were
inverted he pushed forward on the stick very abruptly causing both of
us to be pinned to the canopy. This is scary stuff, I don't trust standard
seat belts as it is, and if they had come undone......well I would
probably have my own set of personal wings now, or not.
I have really changed my attitude about the way I fly with other people
and about letting other people have stick time without a VERY through
checkout.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine enamels |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> > i found that the paint on my brand new lycoming 0-360 cames off very easy
> > by just sratching it with the fingernail.
Randall,
This is special high temperature paint, necessary to withstand the high
cylinder temps associated with aircooled engines. Normal enamels would
blister and peel off when subjected to such heat. Single stage high temp
paints normally require heat to fully cure. After you operate your
engine for a few hours that paint should become rock hard. Before that
time comes, be careful with it. Touch it up as necessary before you
first operate it.
Mike Mckenna (mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net)
Lawrenceville, Ga.
RV8 - working on elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard S. Ward" <ward(at)hyperspectral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
At 09:36 PM 6/19/98 , you wrote:
>
>>
>> Yeah, I've thought about this, but the fact that pressure goes right up
>> when turn the boost pump tells me the sensor is ok. Am I missing
>> something here??
>>
>> -- Rich
>
>Maybe I missed it but I didn't see you say anything about whether
>you were changing power settings or not. At full power such as in
>a climb there will not be as much fuel pressure as there is in say
>2200-2400 rpm cruse. I don't know all the details as to why but I see
>this same thing on my -6 and in allot of low wing airplanes with aux.
>pumps I instruct in. Normally in a hard climb I see 1-2lbs.in my -6.
Climbing is when I first noticed the problem. But in the Lazy Eight case,
I was using 21" and 1900 rpm. The fuel flow at that setting is relatively
low compared to take off. Also the pressure doesn't return to normal when
I power back.
-- Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
For Sale KY196 TSD with Rack
Please respond off list
BSivori(at)AOL.Com.
N929RV ( Reserved )
Closing Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV-Jim Nolan |
Jim Nolan, it is a sad thing that the "blooming idiot" you took for a ride
probably has no idea that he did anything wrong. While I have not finished my
RV yet due to interruptions in my life, I have had the opportunity to fly
people in other aircraft I have owned including a Yankee and my Kfox. I have
had a few minor incidents with passengers, but two stick out in my memory. One
was a non-pilot who decided during a panic attack on Base that he knew how to
fly better than me. He nearly killed us before I was able to over power him on
the yoke. Yankees are very intolerent of yanking the yoke esp. in the landing
mode. Apparently I had not briefed him on a Standard Landing pattern and he
thought when he did not see a runway in front of him on Base we were
crashing--nearly did! Another was in my Kfox when I took a Spam Can pilot for
an introductory ride. I too thought much of him and thought him to be a good
pilot. He wanted the stick so I gave it to him with a warning something like
"the controls are very light and sensitive"--guess what he did--you bet --he
pulled the stick straight back in his lap---we had been tooling along at
1000AGL with the doors open at about 75mph. The Fox entered an accelerated
stall standing on its tail--slowly rolled on to its back before I could get
the stick away from the guy and did a 1 turn spin before I got control at
about 300 feet AGL. He latter told me he became "confused " when he felt no
resistance in the controls--I just looked at him with a disgusted look. The
moral of all this is be sure of who you let have your controls and maybe stay
on the controls with them. This might also apply when giving Young Eagle
rides--stay on those controls with the kids and brief them extra good---most
have no idea about airplanes except what they saw on Iron Eagle--may think you
are supposed to pull 12G's.Take care and I hope your RV-4 was not damaged. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
>During rapid climbs my fuel pressure drops about a psi per 1000'.
Check the fliter in the carb.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOMMY E. WALKER" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Flap-Aileron fit |
After mounting my aileron and then clamping the flap in position beside the
aileron I noticed that the flap extends about 3/16's cordwise longer than
the aileron. Two options come to mind, either trim the trailing edge of the
bottom skin, or fabricate some spacers to fit between the aileron and the
steel aileron mount bracket.
What do you people out there in RV land suggest?
Tommy
6-A Wings
Ridgetop, Tennessee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6(A) Brake pedels (was) advice |
Randall Henderson wrote:
> A lot of people are adding a piece of heater hose or something similar
> to the bottom crosspiece of each rudder pedal to keep the toes a bit
> further away from the brake pedal.
>
Another idea--
>I'm fabricating the rudder pedals now and will borrow an idea from my cherokee
and glue auto brake pedal rubber to the bottom of the rudder pedals. I picked
them up at Pep Boys auto parts store (#20755 for a Honda). I'm going to contact
cement a piece of blue foam inside the center prior to installing. This gives
the foot something to pivot on.
The top of the pedal doesn't move more than 1/2" for full braking on my
Piper.
Marty RV-6AQ 464MS rsvd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N58RV-Jim Nolan |
Sorry about my earlier post about nutty passengers--I did not mean to imply
anything regarding the RV8 accident or it's occupents--I was just responding
to the post about my experiances with other pilots. My apology--I meant to
remove the N58RV from the header and forgot to--my fault. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurancetypes="text/plain,text/html"; |
> >
> Another interesting feature of the Avmenco policy: They will pay you UP TO
> $15 per hour for repairs you make yourself....
I had AVEMCO ins the first 11 years I owned my Cherokee. Around
renewal time I receive a letter "your insurance has been Cancelled" no
reason!! I called and found out that my wife forgot to pay the
premium. We paid and promptly started shopping for the next year. I've
been with AIG 8 years. I think it was the same coverage but the cost
dropped from about $600. to $400.
I was sorry to hear EAA support them.
Marty RV-6AQ 464MS rsvd
Erwinna, Pa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Flap-Aileron fit |
> I noticed that the flap extends about 3/16's cordwise longer than the
aileron.
Two options come to mind, either trim the trailing edge of the bottom
skin, or fabricate some spacers to fit between the aileron and the steel
aileron mount bracket.
Tom:
You need to work the aft line together. Not much can be done to move the
aileron.
When you fit the flap, if you need to add, You can get wider hinges.
Be careful when aligning the flap bracket with the skin & hinge. You
will tend to roll the trailing edge of the wing skin up. use a straight
edge on the skin. May have to file the hinge bracket.
You need to call out your type. I am working on a 6A. the 8 may be
different. I don't think your aileron bracket is steel.
Check aileron to wing tip fit, flap to aileron, & straight trailing edge
of both.
Don't drill the pin hole in the aileron bracket until everything is
nailed down.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
> We were tooling along at about 180 mph when he asked if he could fly the
>airplane. I said yes and released the stick. He promptly GRABBED hold of
>it and pulled BACK as quick as he could...
There is certainly something to be said for NOT putting dual controls in
your airplane.
WHen I had my Bonanza, it had the single, throw-over yoke. I initially
thought I would dislike that configuration. Instead, I really liked it.
For non-pilot passengers, it gave them a lot more room, and they found the
lack of a yoke wiggling in front of them to be less intimidating.
For this reason I have configured my right stick to be easily removable.
I'm now beginning to see the value for *pilot* passengers to.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: Flap-Aileron fit |
>
> After mounting my aileron and then clamping the flap in position beside the
>aileron I noticed that the flap extends about 3/16's cordwise longer than
>the aileron. Two options come to mind, either trim the trailing edge of the
>bottom skin, or fabricate some spacers to fit between the aileron and the
>steel aileron mount bracket.
>
> What do you people out there in RV land suggest?
Tommy,
I fretted over this also. Mine, however came out fairly close. I just
adjusted for the hinge position to where everything lined up. 3/16 seems
like alot to be out.
You are welcome to come by and look at mine.
Shelby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: Insurancetypes="text/plain,text/html"; |
>been with AIG 8 years. I think it was the same coverage but the cost
>dropped from about $600. to $400.
> I was sorry to hear EAA support them.
>
>Marty RV-6AQ 464MS rsvd
>Erwinna, Pa.
Marty,
Have you checked with AIG for a rate on the RV6? Just wondering how AIG and
Avemco compare on RVs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tvelvick(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6a fuel tank vent fitting |
On the bulkhead elbow that is attached to the inboard rib of the fuel tank
for the fuel vent line, the plans shows the elbow facing forward. Is this
correct of should it be pointing down?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a tanks
Phoenix, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | YBoulais1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing removal??? |
Hi,
I just acquired a RV6 and I will have to move it by truck. Does anybody know
if I can remove the wings and if so what kind of work is involved?
Yves
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Top <jjtop(at)cts.com> |
I need to locate a used Hartzell HC-F2YL prop for a Lycoming 0-320 DID
engine on my Grumman Cougar. Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
I no longer subscribe to the RVlist so please reply direct.
John Top
Phone: (619) 549-3556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Insurancetypes="text/plain,text/html"; |
<< I called and found out that my wife forgot to pay the
premium. >>
What a bunch of creeps. A reputable insurance company would have sent a
reminder notice, and kept the insurance in force at least long enough for you
to respond.
These are the same kind of folks that will cancel you for that reason, and
then refuse to pay if you had an accident before you "knew" your policy had
been cancelled. There oughta be a law.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | additional confessions.... |
>OK as long as we are admitting to things that have happened to us in
>our RV's, I will tell what happened in mine.
Those who don't like story telling push delete now.
I too have some "pulled too hard" stories, I was going to a T-6 pre OSH
barbeque at Boscobel WI. Doc Rush, a retired Vetrenarian that mentored me
in the T-6 and taught me formation was with me. Doc was a Navy pilot in the
Big War and flew nearly all the Navy's fighters. Doc was riding with me
because our friend whose T-6 we flew had passed away. I was showing off for
Doc in my new RV-4 and he was loving it rolling and looping across northern
Iowa. I asked him if he wanted to fly. Doc taught me how to do rolls in
the first place. Doc said, "mind if I roll it?" I had no concern at all,
and after all he taught me how. Why would I refuse? Doc started a roll and
about 2/3 the way around it started to dish out. I felt the first G onset
and went for the stick. When we got around we had pulled over 5 G's.
More confessions, I was flying a Stearman with my Cessna 195 partner. It
did not have an intercom. We were doing the old wiggle the stick to pass
control and wiggle the stick to accept it. We were out in an unpopulated "a
hem" area flying some "a hem" shall we say "ground reference manuvers" etc.
It was a little bumpy and I wiggled the stick and it wiggled and I crossed
my hands on my chest to enjoy the ride. The airplane was gracefully turning
and decending and I had no concern at all. ( remember that line from the
first story?) We were getting "a hem" what you might call very close to
the ground. I still had no concern at all. (Maybe there is a pattern
here....)
Any of you who have had the priviledge to fly a Stearman know that the
visibility is awesome in every direction except the one in which you are
traveling. Simaltaneously my partner and I noticed an errant tree limb
appear to the right of the cowling. We both grabbed the stick and pulled
HARD! Remember in a previous post I said that no one ever collected Mr
Stearman's offer $10,000 to break one? We tried to pull the wings off and
failed. We missed the tree. He turned around and looked at me with a white
face and pointed at me and I was pointing at him. No one was flying the
airplane!
Last story. (I promise) I was flying home from Milwaukee this spring FDH
(fat dumb & hungover) when I spied about 30 Canada geese at my altitude
converging. I pulled hard and missed them by a few feet. One of them gave
me a dirty look, tucked a wing and rolled under me, as we passed. When it
was over I had a 4 G reading on the meter. What if I had had a heavy helper
in the back seat plus bags who saw them when I did and helped me pull? The
wreckage would have been scattered across southern Wisconsin and the NTSB
would have said I was goofing off doing acro at a weight above the areobatic
weight limit and overstressed the airplane. Case closed. The readers of
this list would have said "we all knew talked about acro a lot, I guess it
caught up to him." After a few posts about what a great guy I was and how
my contributions to this list will be missed, and Van putting an article in
the RVator again about how most RV accidents involve acro, that would be the
end of it.
Their are several morals to these stories. I won't bore you further by
repeating them.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New heated pitot tubes |
| From: | gretz-aero(at)Juno.com (Warren Gretz) |
Hello to you all,
I have just received a shipment of new heated pitot tubes from the
manufacture and they are ready for shipment. I was temporarly out of
stock for a short period of time. Sorry for that.
I do have a some bad news about the price. According to the manufacture,
his supplier of the heating elements has been constantly raising the
price and the manufacture has been passing that increase on to us all.
The price is now at a point where I am embarrased to pass it on to you,
but, I must. I have only a very small profit margin on these parts. The
manufacture has also told me he has stopped production of the popular
heated pitot tube AN5812 while waiting to see if he can find another
source of heaters. He said it will be at least nine months before it can
be certified after he does find a heater source. Meanwhile his prices
continues to go up. I will not be able to reorder any more AN5812 pitot
tubes until he is again manufacturing. I still have a supply of the
AN5812 pitot tubes that I am asking $150 for while my supply lasts.
I will continue to stock the AN5814 heated pitot tube that has the static
source in it. My price for this pitot tube continues to be competitive
with other suppliers at $190.
The good news is that I am continuing to supply my pitot tube mounting
kits for the RV aircraft with no price increase since I started providing
the kits two years ago. The mounting kits are $105 in chrome finish. All
my prices include shipping to you.
I do supply other products for the RV. They are an alternative electric
elevator trim mounting kit and the RV ToolKey. If you would like
information on my products please contact me and provide me with you
postal mailing address and I will send you my product flyers.
Warren Gretz, (Gretz Aero)
3664 East Lake Drive
Littleton, CO 80121
(303) 770-3811
gretz-aero(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
<< >During rapid climbs my fuel pressure drops about a psi per 1000'.
Check the fliter in the carb.
>>
This probably won't be the culprit, as the pressure sensor pick-off is usually
before the carb, at the outlet of the pump. To properly diagnose this problem,
we need to know exactly which type of gage you have, what its range is, how it
is hooked up, and how it is mounted. If you have a mech gage mounted near the
top of the panel, you will have a substantial press drop in the line leading
to the gage, giving false readings. I've ridden in more than a few RV's, and
there is an amazing variety of doing/attaching/mounting etc everything on
these airplanes! Who would disagree that no two are the same?
I will say that if your engine continues to run, you have enough pressure to
do the job, so fly the airplane. However, you want to know what that pressure
is, and I agree with this also. Don't put an "inop" sticker on the thing and
press on.
So: The engine manufacturer says .5 psi is a min. Your engine continues to
run, so it has at least that much, right? It looks like your gage is giving
you a faulty reading, for whatever reason. Bad gage, improper hookup,
something else. The pressure we ask these gages to read is v close to 0- the
gage manufacturer would have to supply a v good instrument to read this low
pressure accurately. Troubleshoot the gage, or its installation, if you can.
Would you be able to run two gages for a test?
I have little pitot-tube chingaderas on the vent outlets of my fuel system.
I'd estimate that they add about 1.5 psi to the system, due to the fact that
the tank looks (in flight) just like it did while undergoing the infamous
pressure test- slightly bulged. Actually, it matches the rest of the LE/top
skin bulging due to flight loading. I don't know that these would help in your
case, but my vents seemed to be located in a low press area, causing the tanks
to appear as if under a slight vacuum before I installed the pressure
increasing pitot thingerators. This is on a Harmon Rocket 2, BTW.
I hope some of this helps! Please post to the list what you find to be the
problem...
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | One wife's veiws of RV building and flying. |
I was forunate to get to meet Dale and Cathy Lamport at the S-n-F RV dinner
last year and they were on the verge of flying their new 6. I sent them an
email to see how their flight testing and this is what I got back. Hope Cathy
will not be upset by me putting this on the list W/O her permission, but it
is too good to not share.
Subj: Re: How is your flight test program?
Date: 98-06-20 20:03:44 EDT
From: cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Cathy Lamport)
Reply-to: cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca
To: Kerrjb(at)aol.com, cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca
Hi Bernie:
Just went for my first flight today. Dale just finished flying
off his 25 hours this week. Inclement weather and the fact that Dale has
a regular job interfered with working off the hours. A month ago today
was the first flight.
Dale has not had any mechanical problems or otherwise during the
25 hours. The one problem he had during the first flight was that a pen
he took with him to make notes starting leaking. He changed the oil at 12
hours and all was well. We read posts of other people working out
problems during their initial flying hours but we have nothing to report.
It flies as advertised.
My first flight - heading down the runway for takeoff today made
me say something along the line of "woo who". I couldn't believe the
speed at which we were accelerating. It was as if we were jet propelled.
After we got flying it was if we had a cushion of air under us or as if we
had a large platform under us. I guess seeing the wings below gives you a
feeling of comfort. Of course I was the chief bucking bar operator and
could look at the wing and remember the Saturday night we riveted the
wings. When we were working away Dale said to remember this night when I went
for my first ride and I did. Anyhow, even in rough air the RV seems to
handle it well. We have a wing leveller as well to keep us on the
straight and narrow. The seats made of temper foam are just like sitting
in your favourite chair at home. Felt like we could have carried right on
to Florida today. Its wonderful and I hate to brag too much as some
people in this world are not as lucky as us to own such a wonderful flying
airplane. Today I noticed at times were cruising along at 197 MPH and
can climb at 1000 feet per minute. The one problem Dale had was to
remember to slow the airplane down long before you get to the airport. I
love the side by side seating as I have a clear view of all the
instruments. I was used to tandem seating looking at the back of
Dale's head. Dale mounted his Magellan GPS in the middle of the instrument
panel and I can just reach out and press a button to see when we are going to
reach our destination instead of saying "are we there yet". Also love the
Van's air vents that can blow off your hat off. Like being in a sports car
with the wind blowing in your hair.
Anyhow, we love it and will try and restrain ourselves from bragging
too much!! We are going to a fly-in breakfast tomorrow and I think I
will eat at home so I am available for any questions and photo ops!!
We have built ourselves a wonderful airplane, I can't say much more!
All the best to you and come he-- or high water we will be flying
to Sun 'N Fun next Spring. Happy building!
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>Flying so much that you don't have time to tell us how good it is? Have not
>seen any reports on the rv list. Is it going well?
>
>Bernie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Enamels? |
>I got out my Sky Ranch Engineering Manual and reread this section. When you
>alodine I guess all parts are coated, inside and out? And How hard is it to
>do this? Are there any special precautions? Also, the Cylinders are steel
>and the heads aluminum. You still alodine the steel cylinders? and How?
>Inside and out? I guess you have to brush it on the outside in this
>scenario?
>
>Shelby in Nashville.
>RV6A -fuselage
Shelby,
Of course, we've all done some alodining:) I've never dipped case halves
in a tank, though. I can't tell you how to go about doing the cylinders.
However, I have e-mailed John with a couple of questions and he responded in
a timely manner. His address is:
75655.1276(at)compuserve.com
Let us know what you find out.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
Listers,
I thought this would be an appropriate place to ask for general flying
advise not necessarily related to RV's. For the past 4 months I have been
striving to enter the ranks (lower) of that exalted breed of aviator who
flies airplanes in the configuration that God made them ... with
conventional gear. What I have been learning to fly is a Great Lakes in an
aerobatics course here. Anyway, landings are coming along except for one
thing. I don't pick up fast enough on a slight drift from a light
crosswind. 10 knot gusting to 15 are noticeable, no problem there. But the
light ones have me to one side of the centerline before I react.
My question is, what are the tricks. I have heard people talk about putting
your head back. Does that help? My eyesight is good, uncorrected (so far)
and I can see peripherally at better than 90 deg. However there is an
imbalance in that one eye is stronger than the other. Could this be causing
a problem in that I am not getting as clear a picture from the weaker eye?
I know that there are people w/ single eyesight who have gotten medical
variances. What do they do or are they restricted to tricycle gear? Anyway
thanks for indulging me and any advise is welcome.
Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage done waiting for Q.B., Chandler, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
Listers,
Much to my mechanics' chagrin (both of them) and the unbelief of my spam-can
flying friends, I built my RV-6A with an aftermarket electronic ignition in
place of the right magneto on my freshly overhauled O-320 E2D. Now the engine
is running erratically and seems over rich (poured black smoke on rollout from
2 bouncy rough-field sod landings today and actually quit on the runway once
(Dens. Alt 5000 ft. and perhaps I didn't lean enough on approach) but I am
frustrated trying to sort out what is carburetor trouble and what is the
ignition. In cruise, I get a slow surging of +/- 30 - 40 rpm that _maybe_
responds _partly_ to enriching the mix well beyond peak EGT but never really
goes away... when I select left mag in this regime, it slows just a bit but
runs okay... when I select the Electronics International unit (right "mag"),
hold your ears! BANG!! BANG!!! Stumble, lurch, pucker factor to maximum,
eventually smooths out if I'm brave enough to wait... this is no way to
cruise around in the test area in a new airplane. The plane seems to have
plenty of power on takeoff, but it's spooky to have the engine quit on
landing, even if only on the ground. I think I need to check tho carb float
level; maybe the nosewheel's porpoising sloshed too much fuel into the carb on
rollout... Thankfully it has never belched black smoke and quit on takeoff!
My mechanic is understandably not excited about troubleshooting the plane as
long as that black box ignition is on there making its own brand of trouble...
I admit I have not yet used the timing light on it to verify the settings,
which the manual recommends. That propeller scares me just enough during
ground ops... call me chicken. A local mechanic just lost his arm to a prop
strike. I'd just rather not play with a timing light around a prop.
My gut tells me to ditch the electronic ignition, even though it probavbly
does eveerything claimed for it when it is set up properly. My friends agree
it _should_ work, but it seems to need more work, so why keep at it?? "Put an
ancient magneto on it and be happy, go flying; forget 10% better mileage and 5
extra ponies and all that jazz." Then with the ignition variables out of the
loop, I can focus on possible carburetion problems and finally have a strong-
running engine to fly behind with confidence.
Anyone feel like experimenting? I'm not an engine whiz, and my A&P's have no
interest in fiddling with the latest non-TSO'd marvels, so... I'll sell the
Electro Aire unit for a loss (enough to cover a new magneto from Slick, plus
the core charge. I'm sure Jeff Rose, the Mfgr., would bench-check it for me
if you wanted. Email me off list and the latest fancy aftermarket CDI system
could be coming off my firewall and headed for your workshop!
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
9.9 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard S. Ward" <ward(at)hyperspectral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
At 05:17 PM 6/20/98 , you wrote:
>This probably won't be the culprit, as the pressure sensor pick-off is
usually
>before the carb, at the outlet of the pump.
I had the same thought.
> To properly diagnose this problem,
>we need to know exactly which type of gage you have, what its range is,
how it
>is hooked up, and how it is mounted. If you have a mech gage mounted near the
>top of the panel, you will have a substantial press drop in the line leading
>to the gage, giving false readings.
The pressure sensor is "T"ed right off the mechanical pump with 1/8" line.
The sensor is about 9" from the mechanica pump and at the same heigth. The
line is coiled severl times to isolate mechanical vibration to the senosr
which is mounted on the firewall. The port of the sensor is mounted facing
down so fuel doesn't rest in it. I thought that maybe there was air in the
line causing the problem, but I bled it the last time I had the cowling off
and it didn't help.
>I will say that if your engine continues to run, you have enough pressure to
>do the job, so fly the airplane. However, you want to know what that pressure
>is, and I agree with this also. Don't put an "inop" sticker on the thing and
>press on.
Yeah, but I sure would like to understand it.
>
>So: The engine manufacturer says .5 psi is a min. Your engine continues to
>run, so it has at least that much, right? It looks like your gage is giving
>you a faulty reading, for whatever reason. Bad gage, improper hookup,
>something else.
I've thought of the sensor/gauge right away, but when I put the boost pump
on the pressure goes back up telling the gauge is ok. Is my thinking
screwed up here?
>I have little pitot-tube chingaderas on the vent outlets of my fuel system.
>I'd estimate that they add about 1.5 psi to the system, due to the fact that
>the tank looks (in flight) just like it did while undergoing the infamous
>pressure test- slightly bulged. Actually, it matches the rest of the LE/top
>skin bulging due to flight loading. I don't know that these would help in
your
>case, but my vents seemed to be located in a low press area, causing the
tanks
>to appear as if under a slight vacuum before I installed the pressure
>increasing pitot thingerators. This is on a Harmon Rocket 2, BTW.
I've been thinking alot about this one too. Since it would explain the
behavior I see. But it should be a function of air speed. Today, I went
and after the pressure droped I slowed way way down. No help.
>
>I hope some of this helps! Please post to the list what you find to be the
>problem...
>
>Check six!
>Mark
Thanks Mark, will do and I will let everybody know.
-- Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a fuel tank vent fitting |
>
>
> On the bulkhead elbow that is attached to the inboard rib of the fuel tank
> for the fuel vent line, the plans shows the elbow facing forward. Is this
> correct of should it be pointing down?
>
I noticed today while mounting my wings that on my QB the elbow is
facing backward. As you state, the plans show it facing forward.
Wondering how critical this is and how to correct it. The elbow is
prosealed in place.
Sometimes the quick build is a real pain! I know, I know. You are
all crying for me.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
I suppose we all have an interesting tale or two about the all-knowing or
know-nothing passenger 'taking 'er for a few flip-flops'. Most of mine have
been rather benign as I always keep one hand gently around the stick. I put
both my hands in the air, the old method of saying 'it's yours' and drop my
right hand down to the stick instantly. Harder to do surreptitiously in a -6
type. I try to be always ready for anything. 'Course, it's hard to do
anything surprising in the Cub. The -4 is another matter. A thorough
briefing is in order. 'When you want to turn, don't move the stick; just
THINK about the turn and the airplane will do the rest for you. Honest. I'll
show you.'
The worst passengers seem to be pilots. Non-pilots are usually to timid to
touch ANYTHING. 'Say, you want to fly for a NOTHANKSI'DRATHERYOUDIDTHE
FLYING, IF YOU DON'T MIND THANK you very much'". With pilots, it is
sometimes uncertain who the pilot is, exactly. Sometimes I'll tell them,
'OK, I'm the pilot today; you're the passenger today. Don't worry about
flying at all.' Well, we were out on skis one time and Allen was in the
back, and we were in his Super Cub and..........ah, never mind. Hardly hurt
the fence or the airplane.
I had an Air Force jet jock and an airline pilot both try to tip us over.
'Let's not do that, K? Aaaaaaaand let's not do that either.' I mean, the guy
has 25,000 hours. Who am I to tell him about flying? I am. I am the pilot
today. NO one knows this airplane like I do, I don't care how many hours he
has. And there are certain things we aren't going to do today. I
occasionally "forget" to put the stick in the back. 'Oh, I shudda remembered
to put the stick in for you. Sorry. Next time.' But I also don't want to
take away the experience of them flying.
I enjoy giving rides and the few times something has happened won't
discourage me from that. You just have to be carful, that's all. And you as
a pilot don't have to do anything dumb showing off the airplane either. The
ride is impressive enough, why buzz the others waiting for a ride, pulling
up in a 2 G climb, blind into the pattern? I didn't like it; I doubt many
other people do either.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Building the Relationship
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: unfortunate typo:CDI post |
I accidentally wrote:
<< when I select left mag in this regime, it slows just a bit but
runs okay... when I select the Electronics International unit (right "mag"),
hold your ears! BANG!! BANG!!! Stumble, lurch, >>
That should NOT read "Electronics International unit."
It SHOULD say "Electro Aire unit." Don't know where my mind was. EI makes
some nice instrumentation, but I don't have any, so that's no excuse. Sorry.
No slight intended.
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | N58RV clarification |
Listers,
Just a note. I fly young eagles, I fly all kinds of people. Always have, always
will.
But NOW I don't take anything for granted ( especially THEIR skills at flying MY
airplane ). And now my hand is a lot closer to the stick than it was before. (
I learn
fast ).
Please don't take this THREAD as an implication that I believe what happened
to me could have happened to N58RV.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: One wife's veiws of RV building and flying. |
After reading this I just had to share an article that my favorite bucker
wrote for one of the issues of my newsletter, Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing.
She is as disappointed as I am about the loss of "Rudy" as I am and has
promised to help a lot more on "Rudy II." She wrote:
Wifely Reflections by Bev
I think it's time for me to say a few words about "our" RV-6A. I must start
with a confession - I have not always been the patient, understanding wife
that Jim may have led you to believe. In fact, I have been quite the opposite
a lot of the time. Since this was our second plane being built in the
basement, I was somewhat familiar with the process. Still, I hated the noise,
the smells, and the time it took away from our time together to build this
airplane. I would have much rather been traveling to exotic places around the
world than spending the time and money on an airplane that I probably wouldn't
even like flying in. I did help with the bucking of lots of rivets, but I
wasn't always generous in my attitude about it. I barely tolerated the
project. I did enjoy the trips to Oshkosh and seeing other peoples' planes,
but building was not my thing. I have always been very proud of Jim and his
ability to put this plane together. (I can't even read a pattern to sew a
dress!) I am amazed that he can remember what size rivet goes in each hole
long after he has completed that step of the building. (This is the same guy
who still can't find anything in our kitchen after 11 years in this house!)
He remembers all the numbers and steps and can spit out facts as though he has
a computer in his head. I am proud of his newsletter. He spends many long
hours putting it together each quarter, and I think he does an excellent job.
I feel so good when I read the comments his readers send him, and I feel they
are well deserved. However, this building process was getting to me. I was
even stupid enough to once make the comment that it was either me or the RV.
Jim was very diplomatic with his answer; he just said to never make an
ultimatum unless I was willing to accept either answer. I learned my lesson!
Well, as you all know, the project went on, and finally, after 3 years and 3
months, it was completed. I will never forget the day that Jim was in the
basement painting. He came upstairs with tears in his eyes. I thought, "Oh
no. What's happened now?" Jim asked me to come to the basement and see the
paint job. I was convinced something horrible had happened. What I saw was
the fuselage after the tape had been removed reveling an absolutely stunning
airplane! Jim was so pleased that his emotions overcame him. All that work,
and look how it turned out!
This was great, but for me the worst was yet to come. He was now ready to
take this plane to the airport and actually fly the thing. And he expected me
to fly with him. Now, my idea of a plane ride is to sit in First Class, have
a glass of wine and a nice meal, maybe watch a movie, and end up in London,
Paris, Rome, Sequim... You get the idea. Fly in a little plane that bumps
around the sky with no restroom facilities - you have got to be kidding. I
watched as the plane was hauled to the airport; I watched as the wings were
re-attached; I watched the entire test-flying phase. I was becoming more
comfortable with the idea that this plane was not going to fall out of the
sky. I was even beginning to catch some of Jim's excitement about becoming
airborne. In fact, by the time he had his 40 hours flown off (his engine is
considered "experimental" also, hence the 40 hours), I was begging for the
first ride. Something happened that I never expected; I loved it! For the
first time I could understand what Jim had been telling me all along about the
freedom of flight. You do get to see the world from a whole new perspective.
Jim is a very conservative pilot and has done everything he can to make me
feel at ease with his flying. On our first cross-country flight to Boone,
Iowa, in June, I even fell asleep on the way! Wives have told me that they
have flown with their husbands for years and refuse to close their eyes in
fear of their husbands' flying abilities. I don't feel that way with Jim. I
am confident of his building skills and his flying skills. I have also become
very confident of Van's RV design.
It pleases me to no end to see the "RV grins" on the faces of the people Jim
has flown in his plane. Now I look back and am sorry for all the complaining
I did earlier. I am so glad that Jim kept going and has a truly wonderful
flying machine!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
Is there any protocol for the length that rudder bearings should come out of
the rudder? It seems if I screw them in to their minimum distance, there is
not enough room between the skins of the fuselage to allow for significant
movement. Any suggestions on how much the rudder should be able to move?
Thanks in advance
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Mounting Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Can anyone help with the following questions about firewall forward hoses.
1) As the mechanical fuel pump and the carb. 'move as one' has anyone used a
solid Al line fitted with fire sleeve? (Cheaper and easier to fabricate).
2) My inspector said that I should use cad. plated steel fittings on the
flexable lines. He suggested 303 tubing, but the only steel fittings I can
find are -4 and -6 the -8 is -8D in both the Wicks and Spruce catalogs. Any
other supply?
3) I read that 701 is better (higher temp - more expensive, but lower max
working pressure than the 303, 1500 vs 3000 ). This is the hose that Vans
sells so I bought these. All the fittings he sent (including the pipe
fittings to go into the engine and oil cooler) were Al. not steel. Bill
tells me that that is all they sell. Looking again in the Wicks and Spruce
catalog this is all they sell too (except for the pipe fittings). What's the
view of steel vs. Al.?
The block and the oil cooler are both Al. any views on connecting dissimilar
metals. (a favored method for generating a replacement part market as far as
our automotive friends are concerned)
Any views on 701 vs 303?
3) Spruce sells mandrels (factory ones they say) for $28-$47. Wicks sells
theirs for $16.41 no matter what size. Any comments?
They say that these mandrels are for 303 hose and 491 fittings. The fitting
instructions do not mention any mandrels for 701 into 816 fittings. The Sky
Ranch manual metions this only for the 303 hose. Am I correct in assuming
that I do not need these mandrels?
Thanks for your help
Royce Craven
Melbourne Oz.
RV-6A fitting engine bits
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Engine or Panel First? |
I am starting to think about my next purchase for my -6A. Which should come
first if one does not have the luxury of having both at the same time? The
engine or the panel? I am planning on an 0-320 with a fixed prop, and a VFR
panel with RMI monitors, Navaid, GPS, MicroEncoder, gauges, intercom,
etc...no gyros...
Thanks in advance....
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Mounting Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Insurancetypes="text/plain,text/html"; |
<< Have you checked with AIG for a rate on the RV6? Just wondering how AIG and
Avemco compare on RVs. >>
The AIG policy on my 6A is about $500 less than Avemco bid.
-GV
ng down? >>
Forward is correct. If you route downward you would create a fluid trap in
the line.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: unfortunate typo:CDI post |
If it runs good on the mag, then timing is the culprit with your
electronic ign. Do you have the elect ign timmed with the mag?
RVer273sb Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder bearings |
There are control surface displacement specs in your plans
and or builders manual. Another thing is to make sure you have
full thread through the internal nut, I am asuming the 8 uses the
rodend bearings like the rv4
RVer273sb Co
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
>
>My question is, what are the tricks. I have heard people talk about
putting
>your head back. Does that help? My eyesight is good, uncorrected (so far)
>and I can see peripherally at better than 90 deg. However there is an
>imbalance in that one eye is stronger than the other. Could this be
causing
>a problem in that I am not getting as clear a picture from the weaker eye?
>
If you promise not to tell anyone I will tell you the trick..... OK?
Promise?
Are you sure?
Don't tell anyone!
Here it is....
Fly.
As for your eyes, forget it. I am blind as a cave bat. 20/200 uncorrected
astigmatism and spectacles like the bottom of a beer glass. Don't let
anyone sell you that crock of horse hockey. Airlines and the Air Force pick
people with perfect eyesight because then they only have to wash out 50% of
their pilots instead of 90%. It has absolutely NOTHING to do with your
ability to fly. They
don't make the Air Force Colonels or the airline Captains quit when they get
their glasses.
I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine or Panel First? |
>
>I am starting to think about my next purchase for my -6A. Which should come
>first if one does not have the luxury of having both at the same time? The
>engine or the panel? I am planning on an 0-320 with a fixed prop, and a VFR
>panel with RMI monitors, Navaid, GPS, MicroEncoder, gauges, intercom,
>etc...no gyros...
>
>
>Thanks in advance....
>
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>Mounting Empennage
>
>
>
>
>
>
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
<< I don't pick up fast enough on a slight drift from a light
crosswind. 10 knot gusting to 15 are noticeable, no problem there. But the
light ones have me to one side of the centerline before I react.
My question is, what are the tricks. >>
Jeff,
No tricks, the biggest help is lots of practice. Try using the rudder
to keep the airplane in alignment with the runway then feed in enough aileron
to keep from drifting sideways. Thats the simplist way I can think to put it.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bransom(at)wlgore.com |
| Subject: | Re: technique-tail wheel wanted, |
I'm relatively new to "Conventional way" myself, After Purchasing my
Tailwind (C. WOODS 38CW) I've had some real"eye opening experiences".
(I'm still working on coming in at 80 KTS over the fence instead of 90.)
One of my best instructors gave me a great hint, keep your eyes focused far
down the runway, This is a habit that comes with lots of practice. In
theory this technique will allow attention to span to the far horizon and
include better drift recognition, flair attitude and so forth. But nothing
substitutes experience.
I guess I should apologize for being on a Low winger, all metal,
Non-builder- RV mailing thread, But hay, My tailwind has aluminum wings!
The tailwheel assembly on my Tailwind is shot. The standard RV tailwheel is
the same for my tailwind- 3/4 inch vertical swivel tube and such... Before
I fire up the welding torch next week- , please let me know if anyone has a
tailwheel assembly they would like to sell
bransom(at)wlgore.com - - Flagstaff AZ
"J. Farrar" on 06/20/98 06:38:09 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: technique
Listers,
I thought this would be an appropriate place to ask for general flying
advise not necessarily related to RV's. For the past 4 months I have been
striving to enter the ranks (lower) of that exalted breed of aviator who
flies airplanes in the configuration that God made them ... with
conventional gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
>Anyone feel like experimenting? I'm not an engine whiz, and my A&P's have no
>interest in fiddling with the latest non-TSO'd marvels, so... I'll sell the
>Electro Aire unit for a loss (enough to cover a new magneto from Slick, plus
>the core charge. I'm sure Jeff Rose, the Mfgr., would bench-check it for me
>if you wanted. Email me off list and the latest fancy aftermarket CDI system
>could be coming off my firewall and headed for your workshop!
>
I have Jeff Roses' system on my bird, I now have 30 hours and I like the
ignition. It is trouble free and there is no mag drop when I turn off the
left mag and run on the electronic ignition alone. It idles great and my hot
starts are no problem. This is a major advantage. I found Jeff to be very
helpful, do not give up on your system without at least trying to solve the
problem!
Tom Martin
HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Where do the brake lines go on the RV-6A |
The plans, drawing 49, show the aluminum brake lines go from the
firewall bracket near the brake pedals, along the side of the fuselage
and terminate at AN fittings in the side of the fuselage. The exact
place to drill holes for the AN fittings is not called out.
I would think that the brake lines would run along the side of the
fuselage and down in the hole through the floor along the gear legs
instead of passing through the side of the fuselage.
Would you 6A builders please tell me how you did yours? Thanks.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: General - Hoses |
On 21 Jun 98, at 4:52, Royce Craven wrote:
> 1) As the mechanical fuel pump and the carb. 'move as one' has anyone used
> a solid Al line fitted with fire sleeve? (Cheaper and easier to
> fabricate).
I recall asking tech support at Lycoming this same question. I can't find the
notes for that specific conversation, but I believe they recommended staying
with flexible hose. I know that's what I bought and intend to use (701).
> Any views on 701 vs 303?
>
> 3) Spruce sells mandrels (factory ones they say) for $28-$47. Wicks sells
> theirs for $16.41 no matter what size. Any comments? They say that these
> mandrels are for 303 hose and 491 fittings. The fitting instructions do
> not mention any mandrels for 701 into 816 fittings. The Sky Ranch manual
> metions this only for the 303 hose. Am I correct in assuming that I do not
> need these mandrels?
>
According to Rod at Aeroquip tech support (14 May 98) the 701 needs no
mandril. He said be sure to use light coat of oil (30W, for example) oil on
bore of hose and shank of nipple.
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
Jim and Jerry,
NO one grabs my stick (RV). It's in my -3 of course. No passengers, no
problems.
;^)
Gary N5AJ RV-3 , slider 160hp./Pacesetter Prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing removal??? |
Yves;
I haven't seen anyone else answer your question, so I'll try.
Yes, you can remove the wings of an RV6. In fact most all of them have been
done so. They are usually built at home, assembled completely and then
wings removed for the trip to the airport.
As to the work involved, it is a lot if you are unfamiliar and in a hurry.
But take your time and you can do it. What is needed is to remove the seat
pans, this exposes the primary bolts that hold the wing spar to the main
bulkhead. They are not easy to get to, and may be almost press fitted, but
they can be removed. Before the job is over, you will swear that there are
too many of them, but hang in there. As you remove these bolts, the wing
must be supported or it will drop down and may tear the skin of the fus.
Then the aileron push tubes must be disconnected from the control stick.
Outside, the wing fairing must be removed to expose the other bolts, wires,
and tubes that must be disconnected. There are bolts at the front of the
wing (between the fus. and the fuel tanks) and at the rear spar. Then after
everything is disconnected, you just slip the wing outboard as the spar
slips out of a 'tunnel' like affair on the main bulkhead.
Doesn't that seem as if it should be easy and no problem?
Have at it and enjoy the learning as to how your RV6 is constructed.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
>I just acquired a RV6 and I will have to move it by truck. Does anybody
know
>if I can remove the wings and if so what kind of work is involved?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GJOHNSON1(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/21/98 8:02:13 AM Central Daylight Time, PILOT8127(at)aol.com
writes:
<< rv-list-request(at)matronics.com >>
Please unlist my e-mail
thank you
GJOHNSON(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-360 in the pattern |
| From: | paul lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
Fellow Listers,
A few days ago there was a thread discussing pattern speed and one
comment got me wondering... I have a 6a with a lightweight wood prop, no
flywheel dampener, a Lightspeed EI and a IO-360 A3B6D ( with the
counterweights). I am hoping to set a low idle speed so I can slow down
and get a steeper glide angle on final ( I don't want to fly a 747 sized
pattern like some Glassairs I know ).
Does anyone know of any idiosyncracies the counterweighted engine has
that might make my plan a bad one?
Thanks for your comments,Cheers,
Paul Lein
6a almost done in Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
> when I select the unit (right "mag"),
>hold your ears! BANG!! BANG!!! Stumble, lurch, pucker factor to maximum,
>My gut tells me to ditch the electronic ignition, even though it probavbly
>does eveerything claimed for it when it is set up properly. My friends agree
>it _should_ work, but it seems to need more work, so why keep at it?? "Put an
>ancient magneto on it and be happy, go flying;
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A
>9.9 hrs
Bill,
I've been using the Rose ignition for 100+ hours with no problems and
really like it. I think it would be worth a call to Jeff. It's a pretty
simple installation & fairly well bullet proof. I set my system up so that
the right "mag", i.e. Electroair, fires the bottom plugs and the left mag
the top. From your description, it sounds like you have your plug wires
hooked up wrong. Is your system the "mag replacement" system or the
"flywheel/trigger" system? Mine is the mag replacement style which seems a
much easier installation. Ever thought of installing a right mag to check
things out? Maybe someone local has one sitting around that they'll let you
use.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | YBoulais1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing removal??? |
Thanks John.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Attention Von Alexander |
Listers,
Sorry to use band width but I erased Von's email regarding his RV4 for
sale. I spoke to a friend yesterday who would like to know more about
the aircraft. He is looking for an airframe to install a Mazda 13B
engine into.
Von, do you have any photos you could email me? Please send a more
complete description of the ship. I would also like to hear comments
from anyone who is familiar with Von's RV-4. Thanks in advance
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in landing gear/motor mount on RV6 |
> Our RV-6 has about 300hrs flight time. During an annual inspection, we
I find this very disturbing. Any further details? Are you always using a
rough strip ? Do you tow with this a/c ? Lots of RVs flying and some on
rough strips, I wonder why this happened to you . Bad mount maybe ?
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a fuel tank vent fitting |
Thomas Velvick wrote:
>
> On the bulkhead elbow that is attached to the inboard rib of the fuel tank
> for the fuel vent line, the plans shows the elbow facing forward. Is this
> correct of should it be pointing down?
>
> Regards,
> Tom Velvick
IMHO the answer is no. It is easiest to have it point aft.
ne leading
> to the gage, giving false readings.
Hey that's interesting comment. I was the "me too" sender and I have a
mechanical (direct reading) gage mounted at the very tippy top of the panel!
D Walsh O 360 with carb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Where do the brake lines go on the RV-6A |
<< The plans, drawing 49, show the aluminum brake lines go from the
firewall bracket near the brake pedals, along the side of the fuselage
and terminate at AN fittings in the side of the fuselage. The exact
place to drill holes for the AN fittings is not called out.>>
I'm sorry. I was supposed to post this awhile back but it slipped my mind.
My 1/4" right angle bulkhead fittings are installed in drilled holes (with the
outer skin drilled oversize to clear the socket wrench used to tighten the
nut) in the gear attach side stiffeners (6A). The holes are 8.25" ahead of
the spar fwd surface and 1.75" up from the inside of the lower large angle
(shorteron?) which goes from the f/w to the spar bulkhead flange. This puts
it in a good position for routing the line and is ultimately covered by the
wing root fairing.
<< I would think that the brake lines would run along the side of the
fuselage and down in the hole through the floor along the gear legs
instead of passing through the side of the fuselage.>>
Actually, going thru the side is quite straightforward. With the 6A you
cannot get a hole in the floor close enough to the gear leg that it wouldn't
suffer from excessive flexing IMO. And it might protrude into the airstream
unless you made huge intersection fairings.
-GV
Would you 6A builders please tell me how you did yours? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
Hi Chet,
I experience the exact same thing in my 6A too.
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
-----Original Message-----
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Date: Friday, June 19, 1998 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem
>
>Mine does exactly the same thing. I have the same setup as yours only with
an
>0360a1a
>
>chet 65 hours now
>
>Richard S. Ward wrote:
>
>>
>> I made my first flight of my RV4, N3321L, last May 15, 1998. Wow, what
an
>> airplane, it is everything Van said it was! I now have 21 hours on it.
>> Keep buckin' those rivets, payday will come!!
>>
>> I have one perplexing problem that puzzles everyone I ask.
>>
>> During rapid climbs my fuel pressure drops about a psi per 1000'. At sea
>> level it is typically 6 psi; when I climb rapidly (> 2000'/min) to 4500'
or
>> 5000' it drops to 1 psi where I have my MicroMonitor set to initiate an
>> alarm. Sometimes it will even go to zero. After several minutes it will
>> rise back to 2 psi. Sometimes it will go back to 4 or 5 psi. Turning on
the
>> boost pump will always raise the pressure back in the 4-5 psi range.
>>
>> The other day I was doing lazy eights and discovered I can make it happen
>> every time. At the peaks (1300-1500 ft rise) the pressure drops one psi;
>> when diving back down it increases.
>>
>> Other observations & info:
>> 1. The vent lines are per the plans and are clear. The vent line ports
are
>> orthogonal to the air flow.
>> 2. Pressure is being measured between the mechanical fuel pump and carb.
>> 3. One may think it is the sensor, but the pressure goes up when turning
>> on the boost pump.
>> 4. This is opposite of the normal problem, i.e., rapid descents with
>> clogged vent lines causes a vacuum in the fuel tank.
>> 5. A valid fuel pressure range is 0.5 to 8 psi. O-320-D1A.
>> 6. My MicroMonitor only has single digit resolution,i.e., 0,1,2,3,...
psi;
>> therefore I set the alarm at 1.
>> 7. If I leave the boost pump off and leave the pressure low, the engine
>> still runs
>> 8. The problem is independent of tank. Each tank has its own filter.
>>
>> Of course the mechanical fuel pump could be bad but since it is new, that
>> is kinda my last choice. This obviously smells of a differential
pressure
>> problem but I can't put my finger on it.
>>
>> Have any of you guys out there seen this problem??
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -- Rich
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Noel E Drew <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | South African SP Air Race |
In an earlier note to the web I mentioned my efforts to trim my RV 6 for our annual
air race.
The good news is that it was another race without incident and the other news is
that we came nowhere (44th out of 89).
All the little things I did to clean up the plane like triming the HS, fitting
a rear wheel fairing, streamlining the pitot tube and polishing until it even
the bugs could not sit on it made no discernable difference. A real problem was
throttling back for the Sensenich prop but I expected this and was trying to
reduce drag for the same power.
The race was however very good fun being a handicap and raced over open country
at an average altitude of 5000ft. Navigation is by 1 in 250000 maps with GPS's
sealed or removed. 350nm per day over two days at more or less full throttle
over countryside with very few navigational features. The first day is flown
with fastest going first to separate the field and the second day in handicap
order with adjustment for time lost or gained in the first day. The honours
go to the first across the line and trophies of all sorts are handed out. No
cash is distributed and the spirit of the race is in the participation and the
fun of passing and being passed by all sorts of aircraft. A Cessna 170 won
followed by a Jabiru with a handicap of 100.3 knots. We had 164.5 knots given
to us and we averaged just over 161. The winners usually maintain a track within
100 yds and we cannot claim that.
A high point for me was joining two Harvards for two legs of the race and passing
and being passed by them. Pylon turning at 200ft over the check point behind
the Harvard, avoiding its 500hp wake and going into a head wind over very sparce
countryside. The decision to slide down to 50ft agl found us smooth calm
air and the RV then walked past the warbird. We had to climb over some high
ground and he caught us and again led us through the next turn. We were joined
by a Piper Seneca and another Harvard and all of us went for height on a long
tail wind leg. We were together at the last turn point but on turning cross
wind on the last 60 miles we encountered turbulent air which took more from
our performance than the heavier aircraft and they all left us behind. Ironically
the Harvards were handicapped at a lower speed than us but such is the RV's
reputation!
Turbine aircraft are now kept out of the race and there were a fair sprinkling
of piston twins, Cessna 210s, Bonanzas, Mooneys etc. The Jabiru took the homebuilt
prize at an average speed of about 103 knots which irritated the only Lancair
which averaged about 190 knots. The Harvard pilot informed us that he could
have gone faster but would have run out of fuel!
I have a year in which to do some serious thinking and will be at Oshkosh to check
for new ideas. I hope to meet some of you there.
Noel Drew
ZU-APF RV6
Durban
South Africa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
I would suggest on this situation with the original poster that the airplane
not be flown again until the problem is resolved---(yep your going to have to
time the engine)---my thought for your safety. Also--not ever having delt with
an electronic ignition but with mags---there is supposed to be a drop in
RPM--lack of a drop is an indication of out of time or other things. My
question--with the electronic job-- does it vary the timing according to
engine speed--anyway it seems there should still be a drop with one plug
firing on the electronic and the mag grounded (Another post mentioned no drop
on the electronic) Just wondering how this setup works. JR A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
>
>Listers,
>
>Much to my mechanics' chagrin (both of them) and the unbelief of my spam-can
>flying friends, I built my RV-6A with an aftermarket electronic ignition in
>place of the right magneto on my freshly overhauled O-320 E2D.
I'm sure Jeff Rose, the Mfgr., would bench-check it for me
>if you wanted. Email me off list and the latest fancy aftermarket CDI system
>could be coming off my firewall and headed for your workshop!
>
>Bill Boyd
Bill,
Have you talked with Jeff about the problem? There are hundreds
of these systems flying in airplanes and thousands on engines
other than airplanes . . . . it's GOOD hardware and should
perform as expected . . . but before giving up, talk to the
guy who sold it to you.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing removal??? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Have at it and enjoy the learning as to how your RV6 is constructed.
>
>John C Darby Jr.
>RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
>Stephenville TX
>
>>I just acquired a RV6 and I will have to move it by truck. Does
>anybody
>know
>>if I can remove the wings and if so what kind of work is involved?
>
>
>
An additional tip not mentioned by John is one in setting your self up
with some appropriate sized driving tools to put in a 3X rivet gun.
You can then use the rivet gun to drive out the spar bolts with very
little effort (much easier than spending a large amount of time pounding
with a hammer).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Delivered-To: fixup-rv-list(at)matronics.com@fixme
| From: | Ron Caldwell <rlcaldwell(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Brake Problem |
1I started taxing my RV6A a few days ago. When I installed the
Cleveland Brakes, I noticed that the pads were rubbing against the
rotor. Not knowing nothing about brakes I thought maybe t0his was
normal until they got broken in. When first taxing, the right brakes
especially we're making a grinding (metal to metal ) type sound. A
friend yesterday told me this condition is not right and that I should
investigate. I jacked up the airplane, took my wheel and pads off. I
found the brake piston was not seated and stuck out. The pads did not
want to float around the rotor. I used a C clamp to squeeze and re-seat
the brake piston. After installation, I found the pads not to be
sticking to the rotor and the pads floating around the rotor. This
afternoon, I tried taxing again. Things were going great for a while
and then this same right brake locked up on me. It got very hot. I
could steer the airplane even with lots of power. I stopped the
airplane, killed the engine, and got a wrench and undid the brake pads
so I could move the airplane. I don't believe my right brake pedal is
hanging up or sticking. I still think something is wrong with the brake
piston. Would appreciate any ideas or suggestions. Thanks very much.
Ron Caldwell
rlcaldwell(at)uswest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
<< Bill,
Have you talked with Jeff about the problem? There are hundreds
of these systems flying in airplanes and thousands on engines
other than airplanes . . . . it's GOOD hardware and should
perform as expected . . . but before giving up, talk to the
guy who sold it to you.
Bob . . . >>
Okay, Okay, I confess... I was a bit down when I wrote that last night, I can
get that way after a good scare. My mechanic is out of town and I am
rebelling against the thought of having to stop flight testing until he gets
back... sheesh.
I did try Jeff on several occasions but got no answer by phone... an you are
certainly right: this contraption _ought_ to work and I should not yank it off
my plane until I at least talk to him about the problem, which I have not. I
shall do so and report back to the list, and try from now on to act like a
mature aviator. Sorry to have a pity party on the list's bandwidth. Thanks
for all the replies and interest shown, fellas.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
<<
<< I don't pick up fast enough on a slight drift from a light
crosswind. 10 knot gusting to 15 are noticeable, no problem there. But the
light ones have me to one side of the centerline before I react.
My question is, what are the tricks. >>
Jeff,
No tricks, the biggest help is lots of practice. Try using the
rudder
to keep the airplane in alignment with the runway then feed in enough aileron
to keep from drifting sideways. Thats the simplist way I can think to put
it.
Ryan Bendure Co.
>>
To which I'll add something that cured my attempts at cross runway take-offs:
dance the hell out the pedals. left-right-left/second starting the minute you
hit the gas. The rudder is more effective with speed and doing this allows
you to constantly find how much is needed.
You won't need to do it more than a dozen takeoffs before you've got the right
amount of rudder w/ zero dance. Kinda like riding a bike. Lot of little
corrections until you're smooth.
Second suggestion: buy The Compleat Taildragger. Knowledge is wonderful
thing for curing goofs.
Bob Fritz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: General - Hoses |
>
>Can anyone help with the following questions about firewall forward hoses.
>They say that these mandrels are for 303 hose and 491 fittings. The fitting
>instructions do not mention any mandrels for 701 into 816 fittings. The Sky
>Ranch manual metions this only for the 303 hose. Am I correct in assuming
>that I do not need these mandrels?
>
>Thanks for your help
>
>Royce Craven
>Melbourne Oz.
>RV-6A fitting engine bits
>
Royce,
The hoses and fittings that Van sells do not require mandrels.
Leo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a fuel tank vent fitting |
> On the bulkhead elbow that is attached to the inboard rib of the fuel tank
> for the fuel vent line, the plans shows the elbow facing forward. Is this
> correct of should it be pointing down?
On a slightly different topic, but relevant to Tom... my plans show
this near the top of the inboard rib. I noticed that in the video
George O has his mounted in the middle of the front stiffening circle.
Unless there's a pressing need to have it near the top (anyone know?),
I recommend George's way -- near the top means it's difficult to
connect a fitting to it. Worse yet, if you install it before rivetting
the rib to the skin, it gets in the way of a couple of rivets
(http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2c.htm).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Paint Booth ideas? |
You could try an industial technique...
Use a fan heater (or an air conditioner if it has a reverse cycle mode) to suck
(or blow) air through a filter box from outside.
Since this is fresh air there is no fire hazard. Dont recirculate the air in the
room.
The air is then fed to your spray booth and then vented (hopefully on the other
side of the building, down wind for preference)
This will use more heat but you will be breathing cleaner air and the paint will
dry faster as the solvent evaporates.
If you really want to dry primer fast try preheating the parts to 70C in an
oven. The solvent will flash off as the paint hits the part. Only try this with
steels, as you could over age Al alloy parts.
I've built one identical to the one described above with a major (220V)
squirrel cage blower. The intake is definitely an issue, so I'm putting a
furnace filter over a nearby window for intake. The seems to work well.
The question is: I'm not sure what I'll do in the winter. I'll have to
figure out a way to run the intake through some kind of warming process or
it will drop the temp pretty quick. Any thoughts?
Loren
Just starting tail....and enjoying summer in Minnesota.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Question |
I have decided to rebuild my trim tab because it's so damn ugly. I have
a question for the list:
When I fit the skin to the spar on my first tab, it didn't quite match
up with the spar correctly. I bent the spar to accomodate the skin, but
did I do it backwards? Anyone who has built a tab should know what I
mean. Once the lower skin is riveted to the spar, you have to force the
skin on top to match up with the edge of the spar. Should I have bent
the spar to make it match? I'm wondering about this because on my
current tab, when I fit it to the elevator, it was sitting too high. I
also riveted my hinge on upside down, so this may have caused the
problem, but after some thought I realized that by bending my spar, I
may have "shrunk" the tab chordwise, causing it to not match up flush
with the lower elevator skin. I hope this is all clear.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
>
>
><< Bill,
>
> Have you talked with Jeff about the problem? There are hundreds
> of these systems flying in airplanes and thousands on engines
> other than airplanes . . . . it's GOOD hardware and should
> perform as expected . . . but before giving up, talk to the
> guy who sold it to you.
>
>
> Bob . . . >>
>
>
>Okay, Okay, I confess... I was a bit down when I wrote that last night, I can
>get that way after a good scare. My mechanic is out of town and I am
>rebelling against the thought of having to stop flight testing until he gets
>back... sheesh.
>
>I did try Jeff on several occasions but got no answer by phone... an you are
>certainly right: this contraption _ought_ to work and I should not yank it
off
>my plane until I at least talk to him about the problem, which I have not. I
>shall do so and report back to the list, and try from now on to act like a
>mature aviator. Sorry to have a pity party on the list's bandwidth. Thanks
>for all the replies and interest shown, fellas.
>
No problem . . . IN FACT if you're testing a new machine, you can
make the job a lot easier by sorting things into easy, challenging
and to-hard piles . . . rather than hold up other testing, bolt
the mag back on and leave the electronic goodies in place for later
attention. Slay the other dragons first . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Rich,
Somewhere on your pressure transducer is a small vent hole. Make sure
that this is open-it may have gotten blocked or partially blocked when
the transducer was mounted to the firewall. It's worth checking.
Regards, Bill, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine or Panel First? |
Paul Besing wrote:
> I am starting to think about my next purchase for my -6A. Which should come
> first if one does not have the luxury of having both at the same time? The
> engine or the panel? I am planning on an 0-320 with a fixed prop, and a VFR
> panel with RMI monitors, Navaid, GPS, MicroEncoder, gauges, intercom,
> etc...no gyros...
>
I am about at the same crossroad and I figure that I would rather spend the one
big chunk on the engine first. You can't fly without an engine, and some of the
lessor panel goodies can wait until later
Gary Zilik
6A S/N 22993 Drilling aft top skins
Pine Junction, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
JRWILL
I believe you will find a mag drop is caused by the fact
the combustion is more complete with both sets of plugs
firing (both mags operating).. Depending on whether one is
timed more advanced or retarded than the other, rpm will
increase or decrease. or mag drop will increase or decrease.
I understand that with a good electronic ign, combustion
will be as complete as with both mags.
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Hello Listers;
I agree with waiting for answers about the failure of the wings on the
RV-8, but I do have a question that has been bugging me for some time.
Is it designed differently from the RV-4 wings? Sure would make me feel
better to know it is.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
Have you tried hooking up a mechanical gage temporarally
to cross check the elect gage?
I am running fuel injection and my fuel press does not vary
more than 2 psig from 5000 to16000 feet. Of course I am
using a 25 lb psi eng driven pump which is a higher press
version of what you have. I have a mechanical gage.
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Brake Problem |
If you suspect the puck is hanging up. you can remove
it , take the oring off and see if it moves free. they are not
a tight fit without the o-ring. Don't forget to reassemble with
a new o-ring and a lube. These brake systems are designed
to be 0 clearance. They will always drag a little, but not like
you describe! Sounds like you have pressure that is not
venting back to the master cyl.
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a fuel tank vent fitting |
>
>> On the bulkhead elbow that is attached to the inboard rib of the fuel tank
>> for the fuel vent line, the plans shows the elbow facing forward. Is this
>Unless there's a pressing need to have it near the top (anyone know?),
>I recommend George's way
Thanks everyone for their replys. On drawing 49 it also shows the fitting
pointed forward on one view and then at a 45 degree angle up facing forward
on another view. It looks like probably any position would work, it is
just a matter on bending the tubing to enter the fusilage where you want
and whats easiest to get to.
If you put the fitting in the center of the inboard rib stiffening circle
as Frank says George Orndorff shows in his video, then the tubing is routed
down from the top of the tank to mate with the fitting and you will have a
low spot that looks like it will trap fluid no matter which position the
fitting is in. GV mentioned in his reply to me that this could be a
problem. As you are burning off fuel, the tank should suck in air from the
vent line to replace the fuel that is being used. Will it also suck in any
fuel caught in a low point of the vent lines or will the fuel always stay
there?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a tanks
Phoenix, AZ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Paint Booth ideas? |
I've built one identical to the one described above with a major (220V)
squirrel cage blower. The intake is definitely an issue, so I'm putting a
furnace filter over a nearby window for intake. The seems to work well.
The question is: I'm not sure what I'll do in the winter. I'll have to
figure out a way to run the intake through some kind of warming process or
it will drop the temp pretty quick. Any thoughts?
Loren
Just starting tail....and enjoying summer in Minnesota.
You coulds try placing a heater in the duct with the fan, as an
alternative (and give an excess of enthusiasm) try placing a
convection heater after the fan discharge in a duct
Filter Fan Heater Filter Workshop Exhaust Filter
--------------------------------- -
--------------------------------- -
Heater should be interlocked to the fan ie no fan no heat
This works for gas fired boilers so it should work for you.
It will positively pressurise your workshop so dust will be blown out
of the area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
I wouldn't take any chances with it. I wouldn't trust anything
that isn't built by the FAA, or Lycoming. I would trash it
before something happens.
PS: how much do you want for it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
Thanks, Bob. Appreciate the advice. Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: QmaxLLC(at)aol.com <QmaxLLC(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, June 21, 1998 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: technique
>
>
><<
> << I don't pick up fast enough on a slight drift from a light
> crosswind. 10 knot gusting to 15 are noticeable, no problem there. But
the
> light ones have me to one side of the centerline before I react.
>
> My question is, what are the tricks. >>
>
> Jeff,
> No tricks, the biggest help is lots of practice. Try using the
>rudder
> to keep the airplane in alignment with the runway then feed in enough
aileron
> to keep from drifting sideways. Thats the simplist way I can think to put
>it.
> Ryan Bendure Co.
> >>
>
>
>To which I'll add something that cured my attempts at cross runway
take-offs:
>dance the hell out the pedals. left-right-left/second starting the minute
you
>hit the gas. The rudder is more effective with speed and doing this allows
>you to constantly find how much is needed.
>
>You won't need to do it more than a dozen takeoffs before you've got the
right
>amount of rudder w/ zero dance. Kinda like riding a bike. Lot of little
>corrections until you're smooth.
>
>Second suggestion: buy The Compleat Taildragger. Knowledge is wonderful
>thing for curing goofs.
>
>Bob Fritz
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a fuel tank vent fitting |
Tom,
I wondered, when building my RV-6, why they even used an angle fitting.
It seems that a straight fitting would be easier to hook up. I asked a
Van's employee, don't remember who, and they had no idea why an angle
fitting was used in this location. A straight fitting would have made it
easier to hook up and route the line on the six. Can't say on the 6-A.
By design, you have a low point in the vent line. A major low point. The
vent tube goes way up into the fuselage before it starts back down for the
hook up for the fuselage bottom mounted, angled AN fitting. I assume that
there, at any given time, be fuel in this line as I've seen fuel drip out of
the AN fittings when both tanks are not full.
By the way, it's a good idea to check for vent obstructions on a regular
basis. I carry some clear tubing that fits over the vents in the airplane.
Loosen the cap, slide the tubing over the vent opening and blow to check for
obstructions.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Thanks everyone for their replys. On drawing 49 it also shows the fitting
>pointed forward on one view and then at a 45 degree angle up facing forward
>on another view. It looks like probably any position would work, it is
>just a matter on bending the tubing to enter the fusilage where you want
>and whats easiest to get to.
>
>If you put the fitting in the center of the inboard rib stiffening circle
>as Frank says George Orndorff shows in his video, then the tubing is routed
>down from the top of the tank to mate with the fitting and you will have a
>low spot that looks like it will trap fluid no matter which position the
>fitting is in. GV mentioned in his reply to me that this could be a
>problem. As you are burning off fuel, the tank should suck in air from the
>vent line to replace the fuel that is being used. Will it also suck in any
>fuel caught in a low point of the vent lines or will the fuel always stay
>there?
>
>Regards,
>Tom Velvick
>rv-6a tanks
>Phoenix, AZ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim Tab Question |
Hi Moe:
I had a similar problem with my trim tab. If I lined up the top of
the spar with the leading edge of the skin, the prepunched holes in the
skin were in a postion that would have had me drilling the holes through
them into the bottom of the spar in such a way that they would have been
way too close to the spar web. There was no way that I had the spar
upside down, as the skin would distort and yank the trailing edge up on
one side of the skin. My solution was to compromise and line the spar
up so that I was close to the web with the holes drilled through on the
bottom, and I had a very slight amount of the upper spar flange that was
sticking out past the edge of the skin. I just trimmed off this excess
amount of spar flange, and made it flush with the skin. You have to be
carefull here, as if you trim too much of the spar flange off, the hinge
will stick out too far forward from the edge of the trim tab. I
actually had to trim just a tad of the hinge on its aft edge to clear
the radius at the spar web/flange bend. All this tweaking seemed to
work out, as my trim tab seemed to turn out OK, except for the nice
smiley I got on one rivet that holds in one of my little end ribs that I
made, but that's another story.
Hope all this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wait'n on the wings, in riveting withdrawl
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Graf <markgraf(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
One of the great joys of flying is sharing it with others. I am a low
time pilot but have been very careful with introductions of my plane to
others. Pilot or not I have them get on the controls with me (at
altitude) and have them follow me through a series of manuvers, you
know, the basics, nothing fancy. I generally wake them up with a small
amount of stick forward right after a gentle pull up. As they see
everything in the cockpit float for a second or two, they get the
message. I then stay on the controls and tell them (no matter who) when
I say it's mine,,,ITS MINE. I have turned it over to a few PILOTS after
they have shown me that they can handle it. So far we have had no
problems and have given over a few rides, with many happy "customers"
Fly safe
Mark Graf
N71CG RV-6 150 hp
Denver CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
J. Farrar wrote:
>
>But the
> light ones have me to one side of the centerline before I react.
>
> My question is, what are the tricks.
40 years ago an old Captain told me. Son you seem to have trouble
keeping the plane lined up with the centerline of the runway.
Yes, I guess I do "I said". This was in a DC-3. Well, he said, "If you
just look down to end of the runway as you flare you'll not only make a
good landing but control your drift" Works every time no matter what the
wind is.
Good Luck.
Don Champagne
RV-6
Mont Vernon, NH
I'm the old Captain now (retired)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Champagne <mongo7(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
> I had an Air Force jet jock and an airline pilot both try to tip us over.
> 'Let's not do that, K? Aaaaaaaand let's not do that either.' I mean, the guy
> has 25,000 hours. Who am I to tell him about flying? I am. I am the pilot
> today. NO one knows this airplane like I do, I don't care how many hours he
> has.
Whoa there big fellar. Be carefull what you say about 0ther pilots with
many hours in other aircraft.Each airplane has a touch of there own.
Even among RV-4's. I wonder how well you'll perform flying an F-18 or a
Boeing 767 the first time you grabbed the controls? Be kind to your
fellow airman.
Don Champagne
RV-6 Mont Vernon,NH
A fellow airman
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Is it designed differently from the RV-4 wings? Sure would make me feel
better to know it is. >>
Me too, especially if it is stronger.
Dennis Clay #80473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a fuel tank vent fitting |
> On the bulkhead elbow that is attached to the inboard rib of the fuel tank
> for the fuel vent line, the plans shows the elbow facing forward. Is this
> correct of should it be pointing down?
AH yes. I remember agionizing over this. You have no idea which way it
should REALLY go until you put the wings on and try to route the vent line
through the side of the fuselage.
It should be pointing up at about a 45 degree angle. Even straight up or
straight forward would be fine. Pointing down will work too, but that
means the section of vent line going through the fuselage will have an
extra little fiddly bend in it.
And that brings up another thing: the plans show a single section of vent
line going in through the fuselage sidewall just ahead of F602, up F602,
forward along the longerons, and down the firewall. How one finds the
clearance at F602 AND can make all those bends I'll never know. I ended up
putting a 90-degree bulkhead fitting in the side of the fuselage.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
Has anyone come up with a method for opening .125 angle....for example,
making a 90 degree piece to a 100 degree piece? Van's recommended that I
put a piece of pipe in the angle and crush it in a vice, however, this seems
impossible....
Thanks in advance...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Canopy Frame
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
<< > . If you have a mech gage mounted near the
> top of the panel, you will have a substantial press drop in the line
leading
> to the gage, giving false readings. >>
Hmmm??
Let's see.
15 psi = 30 " of mercury = 64 feet of water
gasoline weighs 6/8 of water; so 15 psi = 83 feet of gasoline.
4 feet from the gage at the top of the panel to the carb ~ .7 psi
But in a sustained climb the 4 feet can become - what ? 2 feet.
so the pressure reading should increase by .3 to .4 psi.
That's not the symtom.
Try removing the inline filter element on one tank, and try that tank at
altitude to see if the symtom persists.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a fuel tank vent fitting |
>AH yes. I remember agionizing over this. You have no idea which way it
>should REALLY go until you put the wings on and try to route the vent line
>through the side of the fuselage.
>
>It should be pointing up at about a 45 degree angle. Even straight up or
>straight forward would be fine. Pointing down will work too, but that
>means the section of vent line going through the fuselage will have an
>extra little fiddly bend in it.
>
>And that brings up another thing: the plans show a single section of vent
>line going in through the fuselage sidewall just ahead of F602, up F602,
>forward along the longerons, and down the firewall. How one finds the
>clearance at F602 AND can make all those bends I'll never know. I ended up
>putting a 90-degree bulkhead fitting in the side of the fuselage.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
Thanks Dave,
It seems that people are putting them in in different directions, including
the quick-build with the fitting facing aft. I will use your 45 degree
angle facing forward as that seems the best after looking at plans 49. I
see what you mean about how you would make all of those bends. The extra
90 degree or even a straight thru bulkhead fitting in the fuselage sounds
like a good idea.
Regards,
Tom (get those tanks done) Velvick
rv-6a
Phoenix, AZ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 spinner/cowling |
Looks like I've mounted my engine about 1" too far aft (home-made engine
mount, Mazda 13B and Ross re-drive). I also lowered the centerline 3/4"
(to make more room for the alternator on top). Moving the cowling 1"
more aft than designed for makes the upper cowling forward flange tilt
down/back, which would create a bow when looking at it from the side.
I don't have a prop nor spinner yet. Are there spinners readily
available where the back plate flange points forward instead of aft? In
other words, where the spinner ends in the same plane as the forward
side of the prop mounting flange? If so, I could at least move the
cowling forward the 5/8".
Also, the prop mounting flange has a 2.25" diameter center protruding
3/4" forward of the flange. Is it normal for a prop to have a 2.25" (or
more) center hole?
Finn
(about to cut the cowling)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
> Whoa there big fellar. Be carefull what you say about 0ther pilots with
> many hours in other aircraft.Each airplane has a touch of there own.
> Even among RV-4's. I wonder how well you'll perform flying an F-18 or a
> Boeing 767 the first time you grabbed the controls? Be kind to your
> fellow airman.
That's true, but let them get their own list and then they can write about
our bad flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | RAM 160hp conversion |
Listers,
Serious question- A friend of mine got an engine overhaul at G&N last month.
He had a 172 with an 0-320-E2D. He went from 150 to 160 hp. The STC was
put out by RAM . The question is, why did they move the oil pressure pick-up
from the accessory housing ( as on all other 0320 Lycomings ) to the end of the
oil gallery at the top right front of the engine.
I've asked 4 A&P's and no one knows. It's bugging us at the airport.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
<358DCDEB.6B57(at)sprintmail.com>
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers
I've flown a lot of rides where I've let others actually fly the
plane, but my IFR check ride takes high awards for the passenger doing
something excessive.
All through the ride I kept up commenting on how sensitive the
aircraft was to control inputs. Demonstrating the approaches, procedure
turns and hold maneuvers was a lot of fun, but when it came to the
unusual attitude part, things got real interesting. The FAA examiner
indicated he had control of the aircraft and slowed to the maneuvering
speed. he then instructed me to put my head down, after which he preceded
to move the stick back and over into the 7:00 o'clock position. Of coarse
the aircraft pitched up and rolled left quite violently, at which time he
uttered in a somewhat excited voice " You got!, You got!"
My first reaction was total hysteria! I have to admit that I was
laughing so hard that I almost rolled the aircraft around to level the
wrong way! His only comment was " I guess you gave me plenty of warning!"
The check ride was a total success!!!!!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bending Angle |
<< Has anyone come up with a method for opening .125 angle....for example,
making a 90 degree piece to a 100 degree piece? Van's recommended that I
put a piece of pipe in the angle and crush it in a vice, however, this seems
impossible.... >>
Yup- this is how it's done. Use a pc of wood to back up the .125 angle, so the
vise won't mark it...use a thick pc of pipe, probably 1.5 or 2" dia. You may
need some practice to get it right, so have some extra angle around.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
To the gentlemen that is trying to sell the Jiff Rose system please call me at
817-439-3280....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)geon.com> |
| Subject: | Stop the Rumor Mill |
I have learned several things from this topic - the rolling g's concept,
flutter dynamics and most helpfull - the serious nature of stiffness in
trim tab linkages (loose tabs triggering flutter). I thought I had
mentally reviewed everything that could adversely affect me and my
plane. I had not considered the serious nature of the trim tab
attachment/linkage. I assure you, I will pay much closer attention to
attachment of my trim tab and will probably use more substantial
materials to connect the tab. This conversation has helped me.
Bryan Jones, Pearland, TX
RV-8, attaching fuselage top skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
<< rather than hold up other testing, bolt
the mag back on and leave the electronic goodies in place for later
attention. Slay the other dragons first . . .
>>
Good suggestion, Bob, but I don't _have_ another mag (yet). I'm going to give
this one more shot. If setting timing more precisely than the pop-rivet-in-
the-hole method doesn't do the trick, I'll go conventional ignition all the
way. I've already had to promise the wife that if there was going to be
someone leaning over that engine with a timing light while it was running,
that it was not going to be me...
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Hi, What have you gentleman been using to secure the throttle cable thru the
firewall and on the bracket by the carb.? I see in the ACS catalog the
Cable Safe II. In the description it says a two piece fitting. Before I
order something else that doesn't work I thought I would ask.
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
Bill
I just went through the installation, call me at 519-631-1369, or email
privatly.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Nguyen <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Flap-Aileron fit -Reply |
Tom,
I had to trim my bottom wing skin trailing edge to have the flap trailing
edge line up evenly with the aileron. It also mentioned in Frank Justice's
supplement construction manual.
T.Nguyen
Fuselage in Jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RAM 160hp conversion |
>Listers,
> Serious question- A friend of mine got an engine overhaul at G&N last
month.
>He had a 172 with an 0-320-E2D. He went from 150 to 160 hp. The STC was
>put out by RAM . The question is, why did they move the oil pressure pick-up
>from the accessory housing ( as on all other 0320 Lycomings ) to the end of the
>oil gallery at the top right front of the engine.
> I've asked 4 A&P's and no one knows. It's bugging us at the airport.
>
I have an O-320 E2D that has been rebuilt to 160 hp (O-320 D2J specs). The
oil pressure pick-up is in the usual place adjacent to the upper right
dynafocal mount. I have an installation drawing from Lycoming on the O-320
D2J engine. In addition to the usual pick-up point, the drawing shows an
alternate oil pressure pick-up point at the top right front of the engine.
Mark
RV-6; flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Angle |
Is there something that I am missing? I have tried this, and that .125
angle is very strong, so I do not see how one could bend this without a
press or something...I have a very large vice, and used everybit of my 26
year old strength to turn the bar on the vice, and the angle does not even
flex.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Canopy Frame
>Yup- this is how it's done. Use a pc of wood to back up the .125 angle, so
the
>vise won't mark it...use a thick pc of pipe, probably 1.5 or 2" dia. You may
>need some practice to get it right, so have some extra angle around.
>
>Check six!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | electronic ignition problem update |
Just talked to Jeff rose at ElectrAire, maker of my ignition system, and he
was, in fact, most helpful. I wanted to let the list know that he was very
concerned about this problem and quite willing to help any way he could,
including buying the unit back if we could not get it operational to my
satisfaction.
He believes my problem is damaged spark plug wires from over-tightening of the
connectors, and already has a fix engineered for this problem. I suspect he
is right, as the wires have a definite circumferential crimp in them from the
connectors being firmly tightened. He offered to send out a new mag hole-
mounted magnetic sensor just in case my original one was bad. "If that won't
do it, we will swap out the whole system for a new unit." Can't beat that!
I can't really argue with that service, unless the new unit is tried and still
doesn't work(!) which would make no sense in light of all the satisfied
customers Jeff has already. I will keep the list posted.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth ideas? |
I haven't followed this thread very closely, and I havent checked the archives
for all the responses, but has anyone considered the use of one or two heat
lamps in their small paint booths? They provide a pretty good source of
sparkless/flameless heat, and as long as the paint and solvent spray does not
come into direct concentrated contact with them, they shouldn't be a problem
in the way of a fire hazard.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
The "Junkyard Dog" RV-4
(Got new tail feathers. Now all I gotta do is put'em together.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
Cable safe has too small an opening for a throttle cable. It is fine for a
air vent type cable around 1/4 inch in diameter. I used eyeball firewall
assemblies from Aircraft Spruce. They are great!
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 7:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Controls
Hi, What have you gentleman been using to secure the throttle cable thru the
firewall and on the bracket by the carb.? I see in the ACS catalog the
Cable Safe II. In the description it says a two piece fitting. Before I
order something else that doesn't work I thought I would ask.
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | drill bits for sale |
I'm posting this for a friend. He purchased a box of bits froma local surplus
shop- turns out that most of the box is brand new 6" #40 & #30 bits. He has
way more than a lifetime supply (thousands)! Call Willie at 512-396-2162, and
make your own deal. I think he said $.50/ea....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The importance of proper torque. |
The following statement is extracted directly from the AC43-13-1A
<>
The old salts on the list will most assuredly wonder why I posted this to the
list, so here's why. We're not all old salts, those of us who read this list.
Not all of us realize that each individual threaded components of our
airplanes are subject to damage from either under, or over torque.
Every fastener that goes into our airplanes, including the non-threaded ones,
has a specific job to do. If they are not installed correctly, their
efficiency and effectiveness in doing what they are there for, is diminished.
A good rule of thumb to go by (for those who don't know) is to always follow
the manufacturer's instructions. If the manufacture's instuctions are vague,
or not available to you, that is what the AC43-13-1A and 2A are published for.
If you don't have one, get one.
If you do not know, ask. The dumbest question that you will ever have, is the
one that you do not ask.
Pearl of wisdom for the day.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4
Memphis, Tennessee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)bigskytel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
It usually is the people that "should know better". I took a BFR in my 6A
and when we got to unusual attitudes I told the instructor (who is a good
friend) to take it easy on the 1st couple of UA's as the airplane might be
a little more sensitive than what he was used to. Shortly after putting my
head down we were straining against the straps and things were floating
around the cockpit - I got my hand on the stick just as he was making a 3g
"recovery". The instructor then decided we should try some slow flight
instead...
Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy@bigskytel.com - http://www.bigskytel.com/~ebundy/
> All through the ride I kept up commenting on how sensitive the
> aircraft was to control inputs. Demonstrating the approaches, procedure
> turns and hold maneuvers was a lot of fun, but when it came to the
> unusual attitude part, things got real interesting. The FAA examiner
> indicated he had control of the aircraft and slowed to the maneuvering
> speed. he then instructed me to put my head down, after which he preceded
> to move the stick back and over into the 7:00 o'clock position. Of coarse
> the aircraft pitched up and rolled left quite violently, at which time he
> uttered in a somewhat excited voice " You got!, You got!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Question |
At 05:21 PM 98.06.21 , you wrote:
>
>I have decided to rebuild my trim tab because it's so damn ugly. I have
>a question for the list:
>
>When I fit the skin to the spar on my first tab, it didn't quite match
>up with the spar correctly. I bent the spar to accomodate the skin, but
>did I do it backwards? Anyone who has built a tab should know what I
.........
Hello,
I encountered the same problem of slight mismatch of the trim spar. Making
sure the trailing edge was 'formed' properly (metal people don't like to
use the word bent) seemed to take care of most of it. I used the brake as
described in the plans and a 1/8" dowel as described in the Orndoff
empenage video for the RV-6. My holes were closer to the web than I would
normally like and I had to do some trimming of the excess. I bent the ends
as per plans. All in all, I didn't find the trim tab to be that big a
deal. My only deviation from the plans is that there was just no room for
more than one 'pop' rivet on the outboard edge of the tab.
I would suggest you set your tab aside for awhile. If your like me, you
get so involved with the piece that micro imperfections loom larger than
life. Also suggest you finish the empenage and move on to the wings. If
at a later date, when the airplane is near completion and you still can't
live with it, then maybe rebuild it.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, ID - USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine or Panel First? |
> Paul Besing wrote:
> > I am starting to think about my next purchase for my -6A. Which should
come
> > first if one does not have the luxury of having both at the same time?
The
> > engine or the panel
>Gary Zilik
> I am about at the same crossroad and I figure that I would rather spend
the one
> big chunk on the engine first. You can't fly without an engine, and some
of the
> lessor panel goodies can wait until later
If you do the engine first, it has that much longer to sit around possibly
oxidizing inside until the first flight. Then again, it seems the price of
engines goes up much faster than the price of avionics.
I chose to get the engine and the bare minimum avionics/instruments first
at the same time, leaving physical room and electrical capacity for later
panel additions (as Scott McDaniels suggested previously). This gets the
airplane in the air faster and keeps the base aircraft light, and we will
only add panel stuff later if deemed "necessary".
Rob (RV-6Q, Socal, cutting slider canopy).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>Cable safe has too small an opening for a throttle cable. It is fine for a
>air vent type cable around 1/4 inch in diameter. I used eyeball firewall
>assemblies from Aircraft Spruce. They are great!
Rick, is that the Cable Safe II (2) that are split you are speaking of? It
is the ones listed for about $16. in ACS catalog. I have a couple of the
unsplit Cable Safe fittings and they will be use on the air vent types
cables. I need something for the brackets that Van sells for the throttle,
mixture and C/S.
The eyeball types you mentioned, is there protruding thru the firewall into
the cockpit side? The picture seems like it just flush on the cockpit side
and what you see in the picture on the engine side.
Thanks!
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO" <lewisth(at)af.pentagon.mil> |
>Hi, What have you gentleman been using to secure the throttle cable thru
the
>firewall and on the bracket by the carb.? I see in the ACS catalog the
>Cable Safe II. In the description it says a two piece fitting. Before I
>order something else that doesn't work I thought I would ask.
When I talked to ACS they told me the Cable Safe II will not fit over the
A-750 (I'm using the A-750 controls for prop, throttle, mixture). I'm
planning to use those big black rubber grommets and the stainless two-piece
shields Van's sells.
For the heater control cables Van's sells, the Cable Safe I will work, if
you get the little insert bushing (I'm doing this for heater, carb heat, oil
cooler door).
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ N47TD (reserved)
Almost done with cowling, engine plumbing is next
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hose Ends For Sale |
| From: | rvinfo(at)Juno.com (Dave Smith) |
I have some used hose ends for use with Aeroquip 303 hose. These are
known as Aeroquip 491 Fittings as shown on page 112 of the Aircraft
Spruce Catalog.
Eight of the -10 size(5/8) as used on an inverted oil system
ACS price $16.17 each, my price $5.00 each.
Eight of the -8 size(1/2) as used on oil cooler lines
ACS price $9.78 each, my price $3.00 each.
Four of the -6 size(3/8) as used on fuel lines
ACS price $7.49 each, my price $10.00 for all 4
Four of the -4 size(1/4) as used on instrument lines
ACS price $6.52 each, my price $10.00 for all 4
Or $75 for everything
Bruce Green
BruceGreen(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: engine enamels |
Gee, another advantage to auto engines!!
hal
> i found that the paint on my brand new lycoming 0-360 cames off very easy
> by just sratching it with the fingernail.it seems they
> don't use any primer at all .this is not only on the rockercovers but on
> all surfaces.is this normal or did i get a lemon??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
I wasn't aware of the Cable Safe II. It must be new and looks like it was
designed to take care of my original objection for use of Cable Safe on
Throttle cables. I still like the eyeball type for Throttles however
because it can adjust for any angle through the firewall and is therefor a
little more accepting of stiff cables like the throttle that may not be
perpendicular to the firewall as they pass through. I installed a side
mounted throttle/mixture quadrant on my RV-6A (which I love) and needed that
capability. As far as what it looks like on the cabin side, it is the same
protrusion on engine and cabin side.
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 10:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Controls
>
>Cable safe has too small an opening for a throttle cable. It is fine for a
>air vent type cable around 1/4 inch in diameter. I used eyeball firewall
>assemblies from Aircraft Spruce. They are great!
Rick, is that the Cable Safe II (2) that are split you are speaking of? It
is the ones listed for about $16. in ACS catalog. I have a couple of the
unsplit Cable Safe fittings and they will be use on the air vent types
cables. I need something for the brackets that Van sells for the throttle,
mixture and C/S.
The eyeball types you mentioned, is there protruding thru the firewall into
the cockpit side? The picture seems like it just flush on the cockpit side
and what you see in the picture on the engine side.
Thanks!
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland brake springs |
Acckkkk!
Springs of cheese! Or are they made of dead soft aluminum? Or lead?
Seems to me that the springs could be fully compressed even with fluid in the
system, especially if a leak developed. What possible effect could fluid have
on the ability to deform the spring while it is in service? Must one replace
all the spings after bleeding the brakes?
It ought to be a design requirement that the springs should be capable of being
fully compressed without exceeding their elastic limit.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
> I took one of the old springs, stretched it to 4.0", then compressed
> it fully. It relaxed back to 3.0".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)geon.com> |
| Subject: | interesting passengers |
Fom these stories and having heard myself, it sounds like the RV
controls are very touchy (I'm building one, but have never flown one!).
With this degree of touchiness, why wouldn't the control throws be
reduced? Obviously the machines have been around for a few years and
everyone talks about great the RV-feel - but being able to cause severe
attitude changes so readily makes me wonder why so much throw? Is full
throw used during landing and takeoff, or controlled aerobatics? Please
excuse the story (its all I have to relate with the subject) but in a
previous life when I flew giant scale R/C racing planes we used low
rates for the full-speed turns around pylons and switched to high rates
for landing. Is this what is going on with the degree of sensitivity in
RV controls? Anyone ever use full deflection while flying? I am just
trying to understand, not question.
And yes, I plan to get some RV time before completing my project...
J-3's are fun but I don't believe they are comparable taildraggers.
Thanks.
Bryan Jones, Pearland, TX
RV-8 80313, attaching top fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder bearings |
>Is there any protocol for the length that rudder bearings should come
>out of the rudder?
>Paul Besing>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona>Mounting Empennage
>
Paul:
I think the plans call the upper & lower & of course the middle needs to
be in a straight line wiht the top & bottom. My plans are at home.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server |
| Subject: | Re: The importance of proper torque. |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
>
>
>A good rule of thumb to go by (for those who don't know) is to always follow
>the manufacturer's instructions. If the manufacture's instuctions are vague,
>or not available to you, that is what the AC43-13-1A and 2A are published for.
>If you don't have one, get one.
>
>If you do not know, ask. The dumbest question that you will ever have, is the
>one that you do not ask.
This is timely as I just purchased a torque wrench capably of torquing
the center elevator hinge bracket to the rear HS spar. The torque wrench
I had access to was way big - 25 to 100 ft lbs or something like that.
These bolts want 25-30 _inch_ pounds. When I torqued them down I was
suprised how little pressue this really is. Did I get the value correct?
The manual only refers to a chart (and points to the wrong section, by
the way).
- Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 emp, HS drilled and celcoed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
The first time I took the stick of a T-38 in the air, we were instantly
upside down, and that was after I must have had 10 or 20 hours in the
simulator. Ever since, including my only ride in an RV-4, I take a stick or
a yoke in a new type aircraft verrrry carefully, usually thumb and
forefinger until I get an idea of what this new machine expects from me.
It's also where I learned the concept of control pressure vs. control
movement.
Terry Watson
RV-8 tail
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
<< Shortly after putting my
head down we were straining against the straps and things were floating
around the cockpit - I got my hand on the stick just as he was making a 3g
"recovery". The instructor then decided we should try some slow flight
instead... >>
This must be one of us instructors who hasn't learned to walk on water
yet.....;-) Heck, if he wanted to do rolls, he should have asked you to
demonstrate one, right?
Check six!
Mark - CFI - Austin
HR2 265 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The importance of proper torque. |
Listers--
Regarding proper torque, how do you measure the torque on a nut where a
socket won't fit (like the bolts attaching the aileron brackets to the
ailerons)? Any suggestions?
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary kozinski <KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com> |
It amazed me how quick 25-30 in lbs come up. But then when using a torque wrench
you are pulling on a 15-18 inch handle. Try this...torque a bolt then put
a normal size (6-8") wrench on it. Try to tighten the bolt some more. You see
that this is more what you used to doing using this standard size wrench.
Also, after you torque a bolt put some paint on it so you know its been properly
torqued. This will save you from going back later for a "little bit more"
of a tweek in torque.
Gary RV6 20038
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The importance of proper torque. |
>
> Regarding proper torque, how do you measure the torque on a nut where a
> socket won't fit (like the bolts attaching the aileron brackets to the
> ailerons)? Any suggestions?
You can use a crowfoot extension (sort of like the end of a regular
open-ended wrench, but instead of a handle it has a square drive socket).
Beware though...using one of these changes the torque arm, since it changes
the length of the nut to torque wrench distance.
Of course, all this is covered in both the standard aircraft handbook and
AC 43.13-lA.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The importance of proper torque. |
SNIP
>This is timely as I just purchased a torque wrench capably of torquing
>the center elevator hinge bracket to the rear HS spar. The torque wrench
>I had access to was way big - 25 to 100 ft lbs or something like that.
>These bolts want 25-30 _inch_ pounds. When I torqued them down I was
>suprised how little pressue this really is. Did I get the value correct?
SNIP
I had exactly the same experience, so I suspect we both got it right. I
had hand-tightened the bolts until I got the right wrench, and was
surprised to find that what I thought was REALLY gently tightening of the
bolts was probably around 50 inch-pounds.
My question -- did I stretch the bolts or anything when I hand-tightened them?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The importance of proper torque. |
The 25 inch pounds is correct for the AN3 bolt that the previous
submitter inquired about.
Also in regards to :
>>Regarding proper torque, how do you measure the torque on a
nut where a
>>socket won't fit (like the bolts attaching the aileron
brackets to the
>>ailerons)? Any suggestions?
I don't know exactly what you are talking about here. I had no problem
getting a socket on these. I did have to use a
thin wall socket though. If the nut is too close to the channel part
though I can see where you would have a problem. I also use a small
crow's foot for getting at some hard to reach places. Crow's feet are
okay to use with torque wrenches as long as you recalculate the force
you are putting on the bolt. I think the formula would be as follows:
* = *
< length of tool including crow's foot length>
And then just solve for
Hope this helps.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A, Roanoke, Wings fitted!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Balance |
>I also hope to do an
>instrumented flutter flight test eventually to verify the flutter
>damping.
>
How does one make such tests? What instrumentation is used?
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Alright,
I know this is a composite, but there may be some people out there that
you
don't like who might be interested!!
Some of you might want parts such as wheels, brakes, trim motors,
hydraulic sytems, etc, etc,
Be nice to me as I'll have a spare IO-360 for sale soon!
I have a completed Velocity airframe with 17 hrs. on it, damaged in a
high speed taxi accident. Airframe is repairable. This aircraft was
bought from an insurance company
and I will be removing the engine and panel instruments (I'm building an
RV6A). Otherwise, airframe is complete.
Registered 10/97 , damaged 11/97.
$7500 or best offer. Repair parts available through Wingco.
Also have 3 blade composite pusher prop for an IO-360 Lycoming engine.
Please contact me off of the list if
Interested parties contact:
Ed Cole RV6A fuselge...skinnning !
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
In a message dated 6/22/98 2:11:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, JonesB(at)geon.com
writes:
> Fom these stories and having heard myself, it sounds like the RV
> controls are very touchy (I'm building one, but have never flown one!).
> With this degree of touchiness, why wouldn't the control throws be
> reduced?
Who said that they were touchy? They are responsive. It's hard to explain
the difference but easy to understand the distinction once you have flown an
RV.
> Obviously the machines have been around for a few years and
> everyone talks about great the RV-feel - but being able to cause severe
> attitude changes so readily makes me wonder why so much throw?
The RV is a sport aircraft with an emphasis on the word sport. The controls
are nothing short of perfect.
> Is full throw used during landing and takeoff, or controlled aerobatics?
> Anyone ever use full deflection while flying? I am just trying to
understand,
> not question.
Full throw is used for landing, crabbing, rolling and for just plain-old fun.
The aircraft are very stable, however, they go where they are told and like
all hi-performance aircraft they build speed rapidly when the nose is dropped
below the horizon. Make sure that you are flying the aircraft at all times.
For what it's worth, I fly mine (as do others) IFR. I wouldn't want to shoot
200-1/2 approaches in an RV but assents and decents through the soup is a
light work load on the pilot. It does get busy in turbulence though.
Go get yourself a ride and all of your concerns will disappear.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Hi all,
Torque and fasteners. What little I know.
"Tighten them till just before they break" is not really a good rule as it
encourages the idea that the torque wrench is used to keep from breaking bolts.
But they can be twisted down without a torque wrench and the pros do it much of
the time. The less familiar the connection the more important it is to use the
wrench since 'feel' is less reliable. The less wrench work you do, the more you
need to measure I would think. An amateur chef can cook great dishes once a few
principles are learned if they will just measure accurately.
Furthermore, the figures given in a Standard Handbook should probably NOT be
used unless the manufacturer has no recommendations. Improper torque settings
can cause distortion of parts such as cases. Mechanics commonly destroy pans
and rocker covers on engines by overtightening the hold down screws.
The torque read off the wrench may be quite different from what the fastener
'sees' due to friction at all points. Lubricant can make a big difference. For
some racing engines, torque is not measured as it is too crude. Instead, the
length of the bolt when tightened is the criterion.
When using open and box wrenches, remember that a longer one will take less pull
to get the same torque. If 30 inch pounds is the spec and the wrench is six
inches long, the pull will be five pounds. If the wrench is twice the length
the pull will be half as much. A gallon of water weighs 8 pounds so that pull
on a one foot long wrench would give 96 inch pounds. Watch out with the long
wrench!
Two of the torque wrench types work by comparing the bend on a metal bar which
is free on one end with the bend of the wrench. The oldest and today, cheapest,
has the free bar fully visible and ground to a point on the free end which then
points to a scale. Another type has a dial indicator to measure the difference
in the two bars. A third type clicks and has a 'jump' feel to it when the
preset torque is reached. I don't know which, if any is more accurate than any
other. I suspect that the simple open beam type has the ability to be the most
accurate but it easily gets out of whack by being banged around. The dial
indicator type is probably the most precise and reliable. The click type, I am
told, can be quite inaccurate but it sure is nice to use especially when you
can't see a dial or pointer.
There are also attachments for getting into tough places. You can always use a
string attached to a pulley and weights to pull a box end wrench!
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Looking for an airport
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The importance of proper torque. |
I must have posted my original message pertaining to this subject in error. If
so, I apologize to the other list members for that.
I also apologize for the following post, which is intended for Mike Thompson
of Austin Texas. His E-mail address was not included is his return posting.
That was probably my mistake as well.
Mike
An AN3 bolt, is the same size and thread pattern/pitch, as a 10-32 screw. This
is listed in the torque charts at 20 inch pounds minimum, and 25 inch pounds
maximum, when the bolt is used in a tension application such as the one you
are referring to. I know it doesn't seem like very much, but it is designed to
take that bolt to its optimum torque. Ideally that would be exactly 22.5 inch
pounds.
The theory is like using a 1 inch wrench, and hanging 20 to 25 pounds on the
end of it. The resultant force around the center of rotation of the wrench
head, would be 20 to 25 inch pounds torque. An individual who has what one
might call normal strength, with a little extra twist and a healthy grip, can
actually come close to or exceed these kinds of torque values with a screw
driver. I weigh in at a scant 170 pounds, and I can do it.
Most of us are used to working with much heavier fasteners, like the nuts and
bolts on our automobiles, or something of that nature. Most people over torque
those fasteners. I have been known to do it myself.
As we all know, airplanes are designed to be as light and as strong as
possible, in order to do what they do well. Proper torque on those light
weight AN fasteners provide that strength to weight ratio. Anything less, and
they would probably vibrate loose. Anything more, and they would likely break.
Its that simple.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4
Memphis, Tennessee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
<< I wonder how well you'll perform flying an F-18 or a
Boeing 767 the first time you grabbed the controls? >>
Why do you ask this question? Is someone going to offer us to fly their F-18
or Boeing 767 sometime soon? BRING EM ON!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
<< Of coarse
the aircraft pitched up and rolled left quite violently, at which time he
uttered in a somewhat excited voice " You got!, You got!" >>
FRED
Wish we had this on Video. It surely had to be a Kodak Moment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
>
>Fom these stories and having heard myself, it sounds like the RV
>controls are very touchy (I'm building one, but have never flown one!).
>With this degree of touchiness, why wouldn't the control throws be
>reduced?
When you build an RV before you finish you have to attach a placard that
says EXPERIMENTAL in letters 2" tall. That means what it says. An RV IS
NOT a certified airplane. If you asked your non-flying buddies in town what
they thought Experimental implies, they would probably tell you that the
pilot should have a higher level of skill and be willing to accept a higher
level of risk. They are correct.
If an RV was to modified to become a certified airplane it would fly slower,
climb slower, haul less, roll slower, have a narrow CG range, and the
control forces would be considerably higher. Along with these modifications
and factory manufacturing the resulting product would be safer. I
personally would not want one, but it would be certified, slower, safer, and
way more expensive.
Van and others have developed wonderful kit airplanes with tremendous
capabilities. But they, like all other Experimentals are not certified and
their is an inherently lesser degree of forgiveness and higher level of risk
associated with that. If wish to avert risk you should not fly Experimental
airplanes. If you don't believe that look at the statistics. If you don't
believe the statistics you are in denial.
Experimental airplanes are not for everybody. If you want an airplane that
rolls slower with a higher pitch force gradient buy a Cessna, or build a
Cuby. If you want an airplane which you can't pull off the wings, buy a
Stearman.
For me the best compromise of speed, handling characteristics, and safety is
an RV. The answer may be different for others.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com> |
| Subject: | interesting passengers |
Doug, I agree with most of what you say but today I'm not behind you
100%.
>Van and others have developed wonderful kit airplanes with tremendous
>capabilities. But they, like all other Experimentals are not certified
and
>their is an inherently lesser degree of forgiveness and higher level of
risk
>associated with that. If wish to avert risk you should not fly
Experimental
>airplanes. If you don't believe that look at the statistics. If you
don't
>believe the statistics you are in denial.
"Studies by FAA and the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) show
that Amateur-Built/Custom-Built aircraft have an accident rate less than
one percentage point higher than the general aviation fleet. In fact,
the accident rate for Amateur-Built/Custom-Built aircraft is dropping.
The total number of registered homebuilt aircraft is increasing by about
1,000 per year, while the total number of accidents has stayed virtually
the same. Another good barometer of safety is insurance rates. Companies
that insure both homebuilts and production aircraft charge about the
same rates for owners of either type of airplane. That indicates a
similar level of risk."
Besides, general statements like the one you made above tough to
swallow - I'd say an RV-6A is a little more forgiving than a "fully
certified"
Maule. I was pretty impressed with the above statistics which came
from EAA!
Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
San Jose, CA Finishing Kit...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Where can I buy a quality nose tire the right size for my RV6A |
?
I purchased the flightcustom II tires from goodyear for the mains, but
cannot find a quality source that has the size for the front tire of a
6A, can anybody help me ? ( The original tires only lasted 100 hours. )
June 16, 1998 - June 22, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ew