RV-Archive.digest.vol-ex
June 22, 1998 - June 29, 1998
Thanks
Scott Johnson
rvgasj(at)mcs.com
tires from
goodyear for the mains, but cannot find a quality source that has the
size for
only
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
Not that the EAA would be prejudiced, but are those marketing numbers, or
real numbers?
Questions
1) Is that crashes per machine per year (do spam cans get more or less hours
put on them than experimentals?), per hour flown, per flight, per mile
travelled?
2) Does that take into account age of the machine?
3) Is the typical homebuilder more or less conscientous than a spam-canner?
It is possible that the pilots are better, making up for the greater
potential risk in build-your-own. (You may all pat yourselves on the back
now. Not me, I'm just a new pilot and RV-wannabe).
Comment - the most telling point is the insurance rate. But that is really
talking about the "average" pilot&plane combination, not saying that
homebuilts are automatically as safe as a boring spam can.
--
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com>
>Doug, I agree with most of what you say but today I'm not behind you
>100%.
>
>>Van and others have developed wonderful kit airplanes with tremendous
>>capabilities. But they, like all other Experimentals are not certified
>and
>>their is an inherently lesser degree of forgiveness and higher level of
>risk
>>associated with that. If wish to avert risk you should not fly
>Experimental
>>airplanes. If you don't believe that look at the statistics. If you
>don't
>>believe the statistics you are in denial.
>
>"Studies by FAA and the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) show
>that Amateur-Built/Custom-Built aircraft have an accident rate less than
>one percentage point higher than the general aviation fleet. In fact,
>the accident rate for Amateur-Built/Custom-Built aircraft is dropping.
>The total number of registered homebuilt aircraft is increasing by about
>1,000 per year, while the total number of accidents has stayed virtually
>the same. Another good barometer of safety is insurance rates. Companies
>that insure both homebuilts and production aircraft charge about the
>same rates for owners of either type of airplane. That indicates a
>similar level of risk."
>
>Besides, general statements like the one you made above tough to
>swallow - I'd say an RV-6A is a little more forgiving than a "fully
>certified"
>Maule. I was pretty impressed with the above statistics which came
>from EAA!
>
>Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
>San Jose, CA Finishing Kit...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
types="text/plain,text/html";
--=====================_44907584==_.ALT
>J. Farrar wrote:
>>
>>But the light ones have me to one side of the centerline before I react.
You replied:
40 years ago an old Captain told me. Son you seem to have trouble
>keeping the plane lined up with the centerline of the runway.
>Yes, I guess I do "I said". This was in a DC-3. Well, he said, "If you
>just look down to end of the runway as you flare you'll not only make a
>good landing but control your drift" Works every time no matter what the
>wind is.
Don,
If you are flying a Pitts, Starduster, Acroduster, etc. as J. Farrar is
flying,
how can you see the end of the runway when you flare? When I try to land a
Pitts, I lose all sight of most of the runway the moment I roll out of my
approach and line up with the runway. I will then have to rely on peripheral
vision to keep the edges of the runway uniform relative to the axis of the
aircraft as the aircraft settles down. Mr. Farrar is correct, in that we
students have an easier time seeing and reacting to large crosswind effects
compared to the slow drift from the gentle crosswind. Do you still have sight
of the end of the runway while flaring in a DC-3 ? I guess you do, but I
haven't had the pleasure...yet.
I will soon be flying my new -4 for the first time, and I will keep in mind
your advice. My best guess is that I will continue to be able to see the
end of
the runway during the flare portion of the landing. Damn, I can't wait .
Thanks.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
--=====================_44907584==_.ALT
When I try to land a Pitts, I lose all sight of most of the runway the
I will then have to rely on peripheral vision to keep the edges of the
runway uniform relative to the axis of the aircraft as the aircraft
settles down. Mr. Farrar is correct, in that we students have an easier
time seeing and reacting to large crosswind effects compared to the slow
in mind your advice. My best guess is that I will continue to be able to
see the end of the runway during the flare portion of the landing.
--=====================_44907584==_.ALT--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Controls |
Cable Safe II works fine.
Phil
RV-6A , wiring panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ail control pressures |
Has anyone out there ever measured the RV4 or RV6 aileron
breakout force and say half aileron force at say 160mph indicated?
Just wondering as trimming roll problems by crimping aileron t/e
changes control forces. RVer273sb RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I buy a quality nose tire the right size for my |
RV6A ?
<< I purchased the flightcustom II tires from goodyear for the mains, but
cannot find a quality source that has the size for the front tire of a
6A, can anybody help me ? ( The original tires only lasted 100 hours. ) >>
The nose tire is a 6-ply 11.400-5 Lamb . ACS, Chief, Wicks and, surprise!
Van's, have them. Check the Yeller Pages for numbers if you have never heard
of them.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
>
>JRWILL
> I believe you will find a mag drop is caused by the fact
> the combustion is more complete with both sets of plugs
> firing (both mags operating).. Depending on whether one is
> timed more advanced or retarded than the other, rpm will
> increase or decrease. or mag drop will increase or decrease.
> I understand that with a good electronic ign, combustion
> will be as complete as with both mags.
> RVer273sb
>
As it was explained to me (I can't remember if it was
Jeff or Klaus) the reason you have mag drop is because
at relatively low manifold pressures . . . flame front
propogation is significant to the extent that shutting
off one magneto retards the effective timing (flame
starts from one side of piston and has to travel all
the way to the other side. When both mags are operating,
flame fronts start from both sides simultaneously.
When operating with an electronic ignition system, the
MAP (manifold absoluted pressure) sensor adjusts timing
for maximum advance for the manifold pressure at the time.
Hence, at idle and even up to mag-check speeds, the
spark is considerably advanced compared to the other
magneto . . . if you still have one. Folk with two
electronic ignitions get no discernable "mag" drop
during preflight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca> |
| Subject: | First Flight RV6A C-GCTZ |
Listers,
13 days after the final inspection and 3 days after receiving the
flight permit all conditions were perfect for the maiden flight of
C-GCTZ at 1807 hrs.today. My test pilot, Fern Villeneuve, flew this
aircraft at Mountainview airport, in Ontario Canada. He was as delighted
with the way the aircraft handled as I was to see it airborne. Next big
event will be my first flight in it in which should occur in the next
few days.
Bob Bristol bbristol(at)intranet.ca
final
inspection and 3 days after receiving the flight permit all conditions
were
pilot,
Fern Villeneuve, flew this aircraft at Mountainview airport, in Ontario
Canada.
He was as delighted with the way the aircraft handled as I was to see it
airborne. Next big event will be my first flight in it in which should
occur in
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
Doug wrote:
> If an RV was to modified to become a certified airplane it would fly slower,
> climb slower, haul less, roll slower, have a narrow CG range, and the
> control forces would be considerably higher. Along with these modifications
> and factory manufacturing the resulting product would be safer.
I consider Doug a knowledgeable dude but here, I wonder?? Could you elaborate,
Doug? Why would my RV6a be so different if certified?
I do not expect to increase my level of risk, even with an auto engine
derivative. My Debonair does not have enough power to easily outclimb weather,
has landing gear I could easily forget to put down, a clanking Continental
engine which has only failed once in the six years I have owned it and must be
maintained by chaps some of whom know little and care less.
You can pull the wings off of a Bonanza and I suspect many others. Some who fly
the Piper T tail Arrows said they were dangerous.
Besides the RV, why couldn't I build an experimental that was not "pilot
limited"? I could line it with crash padding, give it two engines Cessna 337
style.
A "safer airplane" is a hard thing to define.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
<< If you don't believe that look at the statistics. >>
Hey Doug
According to the EAA, experimental aircraft only post about a 1% increase
above the "spam cans" in their accident rates. Well, that is what I have
read, anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
I believe this is why the original design used two spark plugs - it is so far
across the combustion chamber. Modern electronic systems belt out a hotter
spark than the mags can - I think.
hal
> > I believe you will find a mag drop is caused by the fact
> > the combustion is more complete with both sets of plugs
> > firing (both mags operating)..
> >
> As it was explained to me (I can't remember if it was
> Jeff or Klaus) the reason you have mag drop is because
> at relatively low manifold pressures . . . flame front
> propogation is significant to the extent that shutting
> off one magneto retards the effective timing (flame
> starts from one side of piston and has to travel all
> the way to the other side. When both mags are operating,
> flame fronts start from both sides simultaneously.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin C. Lowery" <kevinlowery(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | DELETE SUBSCRIPTION |
DELETE SUBSCRIPTION
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Interesting Fuel Press. Problem |
Try allowing for the conversion of potential energy (pressure) into
kinetic energy (flow),the pressure can drop alarmingly through a
restriction and recover after it as the velocity falls. ( This is how
a venturi (or orifice plate) flowmeter works.) If you are getting
pressure drops as indicated the line could however be a little
undersized and you could vapour lock with the fuel flashing in high
temperatures. Note, head also depends on g so at 6g your ) 0.4psi
becomes 2.4 in aerobatics. You could also try repeating your tank flow
tests (you did check the flow rate didn't you?).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Interesting Fuel Press. Problem
Date: 22-06-98 00:40
<< > . If you have a mech gage mounted near the
> top of the panel, you will have a substantial press drop in the line
leading
> to the gage, giving false readings. >>
Hmmm??
Let's see.
15 psi = 30 " of mercury = 64 feet of water
gasoline weighs 6/8 of water; so 15 psi = 83 feet of gasoline.
4 feet from the gage at the top of the panel to the carb ~ .7 psi
But in a sustained climb the 4 feet can become - what ? 2 feet.
so the pressure reading should increase by .3 to .4 psi.
That's not the symtom.
Try removing the inline filter element on one tank, and try that tank at
altitude to see if the symtom persists.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth ideas? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>You could try an industial technique...
>Use a fan heater (or an air conditioner if it has a reverse cycle
>mode) to suck
>(or blow) air through a filter box from outside.
This does away with the need for an explosion safe fan but with the
experience I have had with 3 different homemade spay booths I would
recommend that you not blow air into a spray booth.
You need to suck the air out.
If you blow the air into the booth area it makes it about the same as
trying to paint outside with a hurricane going on.
Using an HVLP gun and move a moderate amount of air "out" of the booth
(about the same movement you would get from a couple of home box type
fans works well for a space the size of a 2 car garage)
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | interesting passengers |
---"Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" wrote:
>
>
> Fom these stories and having heard myself, it sounds like the RV
> controls are very touchy (I'm building one, but have never flown
one!).
The controls are light but I would not call them touchy.
The most interesting passengers that I have flown were at opposite
ends of the spectrum. The first ride I gave was to a Luscombe Owner /
pilot from Portland who has more tailwheel time than I did. I had 26
hours in / on my -6 when the ride was given. I gave him the controls
1/2 mile from the airport while climbing through 2,000' AGL. He
banked to the left 60 degrees in a split second. He scared me to the
point that it took a while for me to let anyone else fly the airplane.
The controls are light but not touchy. I have 0.8 hours of hood time
in mine with a CFI. I have also flown formation with other airplanes
including climbing at 50 Kt in formation with a Luscombe. The
"Blackjack Squadron" also flys 12 ship RV formation as I witnessed at
Scappoose this weekend. If the controls were "touchy" this would not
be possible.
The best passenger (future pilot) was a 12 or 14 year old "Young
Eagle" that I gave a ride to. At 3,000' AGL, I had the airplane
trimmed at 135 KTAS and flying hands off. I showed him how with one
finger could make the airplane go where I wanted it. I then gave him
the controls and let him fly. He flew the airplane better than anyone
else who has never been in an RV. He was better than some of the RV
pilots that I have flown with. Better means smoother and able to make
turns without losing altitude.
I enjoy flying Young Eagles in my RV and find it some of the most
rewarding flying that I do with the airplane.
127.4 hours in 9 months. Thanks Van for making my dreams come true.
I have always wanted to own my own airplane and I have always wanted
to build one. Thanks for making the dream come true with such a
WONDERFUL flying airplane.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland brake springs |
<< Seems to me that the springs could be fully compressed even with fluid in
the
system, especially if a leak developed. >>
Hal
I'm at a disadvantage here. I haven't been following this thread too closely,
so I'll rely on your able assistance with it.
Are the RV-4 guys experiencing this problem? Most of the posts I have seen so
far, seem to have been the RV-6ers. If the RV-4 is having this same proglem,
perhaps I need to start watching the string a bit more closely.
Thanks
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
>If an RV was to modified to become a certified airplane it would fly
slower,
>climb slower, haul less, roll slower, have a narrow CG range, and the
>control forces would be considerably higher. Along with these modifications
>and factory manufacturing the resulting product would be safer. I
>personally would not want one, but it would be certified, slower, safer,
and
>way more expensive.
>
Doug, I usually agree with you, but not this time. The Pitts and Extra are
certified. I do agree with the "way more expensive" part.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
I have a recently overhauled engine, IO-360 200hp that was born to be
installed in an RV8, or even an RV4. Local shop did the work on it and I have
all the yellow tags you could want. $17,ooo. Willing to take some trade,
maybe all trade depending on what you have. It's in my way in the shop and it
needs a new home! Please email me direct: Jheadric(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
>
>
><< Of coarse
> the aircraft pitched up and rolled left quite violently, at which time
he
> uttered in a somewhat excited voice " You got!, You got!" >>
>
>FRED
>Wish we had this on Video. It surely had to be a Kodak Moment.
****************************************************************************
IT WAS......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Return Line |
| From: | fitton(at)Juno.com (Robert D Fitton) |
This is a question for you folks with injected engine. Is it necessary
to put a fuel return line on an IO360 engine? The line would return
unused fuel to the (left)tank from downstream of the fuel pump. Van is
mute on the subject as far as I can find.
The weather in Las Vegas has been great so far this year and we're adding
another 20,000 hotel rooms in the next 12 months. So, if any of you want
to visit, there should be plenty of rooms available.
Bob (RV-4)
fitton(at)vegas.infi.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fitton(at)Juno.com (Robert D Fitton) |
I'm trying to understand the pros and cons of installing a parking brake
in my RV. I'd welcome any comments either for or against that might help
me arrive at a decision. The airplanes I have flown in the past all have
had parking brakes so I don't know what it'd be like to be without.
They're useful in the run-up area prior to checking the mags. At the
hold line waiting for an IFR release. At the gas pit in a strong wind
they'll hold the airplane until I can get out and chock the wheels if I'm
solo and there is no one around. Transient parking on a
slight-to-moderate slope can be a problem without someone outside to
chock the bird if not fitted with a parking brake.
Conversely, I've weighed all of the components and they total 1 1\2
pounds. Remember, "build it light". It introduces a further degree of
complexity into the brake line plumbing. A few more fittings to keep
tight so they don't leak, etc.
If you care to respond, have you ever wished you had a parking brake when
you didn't? Or---did/do you have a parking brake that you never use or
could do without?
Thanks for your response.
Bob
RV-4. Plumbing complete except....Working on the panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Harbor Freight: Drill Press |
| From: | chriskelhand(at)Juno.com (Kellie D Hand) |
I've been looking for a drill press recently and have looked at the
various sizes of Delta, Craftsman, etc. Today I found a 16
speed(195-3630RPM), 13" swing, floor type CENTRAL MACHINERY model at
Harbor Freight Tools in Salinas, CA on sale for $150 (reg. price $199).
I thought it looked like decent quality and it seemed like a good deal,
so I bought it.
Then I checked the archives because I thought I read some negative info
on Harbor Freight right after I subscribed to the list a month or two
ago. (Yes, I know I should have checked BEFORE buying!) I did find some
older comments on the Central Machinerey presses and it seemed pretty
mixed with some saying they were junk and others saying they were good.
The ad says there is a 1 yr guarantee on machinery and 90 days on the
motors.
Does any one have any positive or negative experiences with these drill
presses that is not already in the archives? A couple of the archive
messages have me hesitant to open the box and set it up.
If you feel enough has been said about this on list, then please respond
off-list.
If any others are interested, they have 5 different models of these
presses at 25% off thru June 29th.
Thanks for your help.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, waiting on wing kit, tail done
Monterey, CA
chriskelhand(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I buy a quality nose tire the right |
size for my RV6A ?
>The nose tire is a 6-ply 11.400-5 Lamb . ACS, Chief, Wicks and, surprise!
>Van's, have them. Check the Yeller Pages for numbers if you have never heard
>of them.
>
>-GV
The nose tire that "Gillette Charlie" received with his kit was "Hop Sing"
or some such name, made in Korea or (?)
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
*snip*
> Folk with two
> electronic ignitions get no discernable "mag" drop
> during preflight.
>
This is going to sound like a dumb question, but how do you tell if both
are working OK if there is no change in engine RPM?
cheers
Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
<< A "safer airplane" is a hard thing to define. >>
A safer airplane, is a very easy thing to define. A safer airplane is
dependent on very careful and safety conscious maintenance personnel (even if
that personnel is you) and a very careful and safety conscious pilot (even if
that pilot is you.)
If we ignore the fact that the RV series of aircraft are very agile
performers, it won't be too hard to get behind the airplane's own power curve.
If you get behind the airplane's power curve, it may not let you catch up. If
you do manage to catch up, well then, you have a candidate story for "I
Learned About Flying From That." I've read quite a few stories in this very
string, that convinces me this is so.
An old squadron commander I used to have, would walk out to my airplane, kick
a tire and say; "Will it taxi?" I would reply; "Yes sir." He would then say;
"OK, if it will taxi, it will fly--get in." I never hesitated to get in. I
knew my airplane, and I never had cause to doubt his abilities as a pilot. He
always brought my airplane (and usually me) back intact.
A safer airplane isn't hard to define at all.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
Bob, I didn't have one in my first -6A but have already plumbed one in my
new one. Your positive reasons are valid in my opinion and outweigh the
negatives.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA (engine stuff)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth ideas? |
<< I would recommend that you not blow air into a spray booth. You need to
suck the air out. >>
Scott
This was exactly the advise I was given (long years ago) by a friend of mine
who used to do custom car paint jobs. He told me how to put 3 Mil visqueen
around my single carport, and using one window fan as an *exhaust* fan, and a
standard furnace filter as an inlet device, I could spray in a dust free
environment. My old 67 Chevrolet half ton pickup turned out great.
I plan to do the same with my RV-4, when it is ready for paint.
I painted the truck in Georgia in the Spring. Temperatures were just about
right. Had I needed heat, he suggested heat lamps. He said about 4 of them, in
a single carport should prove adequate in Georgia in the winter. For
Minneapolis, I bet he would have said 6, 8 or 10.
He recommended that I turn the fan on, and lightly wet the carport floor,
about a half hour before I started spraying. By the time I started to paint,
the air should be relatively dust free. It was.
Spraying Polyeurethane, (Emron or the like) is similar to painting with
enamel, which is what I sprayed the pickup with. The precautions are about the
same. Though chemical masks are quite effective, I would highly recommend a
fresh (outside) forced air breathing device. I've had chemical pneumonia from
spraying poly, and its no fun, I can attest to that.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers-touchy? |
Bryan, I usually start reading my mail at the bottom and work up--when I first
encountered your"touchy and amount of throw" statement I knew you were a model
airplane person--so am I---but throw and control feel and control aerodynamic
pressures are not directly related and your model airplane experiances are of
little value in this. The RV does not have too much "throw" nor are the
controls "touchy". Elevator "throw"--movement or range are better terms--is
dependent on many things including in a tailgear type plane (esp.) the ability
to produce a full stall at all expected CG loadings when landing. I do not
think the RV has that much more "throw" in the controls than many other
aircraft. It is true that many modern SpamCans are slightly elevator limited
to reduce the likelyhood of an inadvertant stall/spin(so is my KFOX). Please
do not think I am poking fun at you about model airplanes --I am not, but
"throw" and control pressures are not related in the way many model airplane
folks think --this is one place were model airplane think" does not apply to
full scale aircraft like the Extraordinary and Superlative aircraft you have
chosen to build---the RV series. You will see when you get some stick
time--hopefully soon---- that these RV's are not touchy and you will like it
alot--I am sure. A Spamcan they are not--and neither are they inherintly more
dangerous than storebought. As for as danger is concerned statistics do not
show mainstream experimentals like the RV/ Kfox/Glastar/ others only slightly
more accident prone than storebought and most of those accidents are in the
first 10-20 hours or they are related to low level buzzing or fuel
stoppage/contamination. I think it was Ben Owens who compared the dangers of
Sport Aviation to Motorcycling and even here there is a range of danger--
crotch rockets vs. cruising with a club, for instance. You have made a good
choice --keep pounding rivets. JR A&P and fellow model airplane person--ah the
smell of nitro and castor oil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
>
>Hello Listers;
>I agree with waiting for answers about the failure of the wings on the
>RV-8, but I do have a question that has been bugging me for some time.
>Is it designed differently from the RV-4 wings? Sure would make me feel
>better to know it is.
>John Kitz
>N721JK
>Ohio
>
John,
The RV8 wing spar is considerably different than the -4's & -6's. The rest
of the wing is basically the same, but there aren't nearly as many parts
(rib stiffening angles, bellcrank gussets, etc.) in the -8 wing. The
aileron bellcrank attaches to the main spar on the -8 rather than on the
Sta. 73.5 rib on the -4's & -6's.
I will refrain from commenting on whether I think the -4's & -6's are
stronger than the -8. Both designs held the required weight during static
testing. I do not wish to fuel the ol' rumor mill. Just the facts ma'am....
Regards,
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Banks, OR
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jelford(at)TRANSPORT.COM (Jon Elford) |
| Subject: | interesting passengers |
>127.4 hours in 9 months. Thanks Van for making my dreams come true.
>I have always wanted to own my own airplane and I have always wanted
>to build one. Thanks for making the dream come true with such a
>WONDERFUL flying airplane.
>
>
>==
>Gary A. Sobek
>RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
>So. CA, USA
>RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
>
And what a nice plane you have, Gary. It was nice to meet you last weekend
in Scappoose. Thanks for coming up. Glad to see you made it back OK.
I can assure everyone on the list that Gary's plane is first rate. Very
nice NEW paint, too.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jon Elford
RV6 #25201
Banks, OR
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I buy a quality nose tire the right size for my |
RV6A ?
<< The nose tire that "Gillette Charlie" received with his kit was "Hop Sing"
or some such name, made in Korea or (?) >>
Is he a friend of Remington Sid that got the Wang Chung tire in his kit?
-GV
30 knot winds at Rio Vista, CA, on the sloped ramp at Columbia and
when there are no ropes at the little podunk fields like Harris Ranch.
Having a well equipped 6A means never having to say you're sorry,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
In a message dated 6/21/98 4:38:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, JRWillJR(at)aol.com
writes:
<< -there is supposed to be a drop in
RPM--lack of a drop is an indication of out of time or other things. My
question--with the electronic job-- does it vary the timing according to
engine speed--anyway it seems there should still be a drop with one plug
firing on the electronic and the mag grounded (Another post mentioned no drop
on the electronic) Just wondering how this setup works. JR A&P >>
With ANY ignition on a large displacement, slow turning, four cylinder engine
you will get an RPM drop with only 1 plug firing. It is a function of the
flame travel, not the ignition type. The flame front travels slowly enough
that you need the 2 plugs on opposite sides of the combustion chamber to burn
the fuel completely. Electronic ignitions, or magnetos will be the same,
albeit the electronic one should burn it more completely, due to a hotter
spark.
<>
If the ignition in question is from Electroair (sorry I missed the first few
posts on the thread) the answer is yes it does vary the timing with engine
speed.
Just my $.02 worth, for what it's worth
Regards, Merle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight: Drill Press |
Chris,
I have a 16 speed bench mounted Central drill I got from Harbour freight over
5 years ago. I have drilled, milled, flycut, sanded and otherwise abused the
drill and it still gives excellent service. It cost me $299 and while I would
not consider it top of the line, I do find it quite good for the money.
Ed Andrson
anderson_ed(at)bah.com
RV-6A N494BW
Kellie D Hand wrote:
>
> I've been looking for a drill press recently and have looked at the
> various sizes of Delta, Craftsman, etc.
>
> Does any one have any positive or negative experiences with these drill
> presses that is not already in the archives? A couple of the archive
> messages have me hesitant to open the box and set it up.
> If you feel enough has been said about this on list, then please respond
> off-list.
>
> If any others are interested, they have 5 different models of these
> presses at 25% off thru June 29th.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Chris Hand
> RV-6A, waiting on wing kit, tail done
> Monterey, CA
> chriskelhand(at)juno.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
---Robert D Fitton wrote:
>
>
> I'm trying to understand the pros and cons of installing a parking
brake
> in my RV.
---------- snip ----------
> If you care to respond, have you ever wished you had a parking brake
when
> you didn't? Or---did/do you have a parking brake that you never use
or
> could do without?
>
> Thanks for your response.
>
> Bob
> RV-4. Plumbing complete except....Working on the panel.
I have a parking brake. It will not hold the airplane during run-up.
It will keep the airplane in one spot on a hill to allow you to get
out and chalk the wheels. It will also hold the airplane steady in a
crosswind long enough to set the wheel chalks. In 127.4 hours I have
only used mine 2 times. Once on a hill and the other in a crosswind
loading a passenger. I was out of the airplane on the wing and I
almost got blown off the wing until I set the brake.
I give it about a 50% chance if I would do it again. It is expensive
and extra weight. It is a luxury that most RVs do not have.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Paint Booth ideas? |
Thats what the second filter is for. It acts as a diffuser so you dont
get a wind you get a draft. The system is known as a laminar flow
room. The diffuser spreads the flow and the air just wafts over to the
vent. The Diffuser should be relatively large ie 10 times the area of
the fan.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: RV-List: Paint Booth ideas?
Date: 22-06-98 21:56
>You could try an industial technique...
>Use a fan heater (or an air conditioner if it has a reverse cycle
>mode) to suck
>(or blow) air through a filter box from outside.
This does away with the need for an explosion safe fan but with the
experience I have had with 3 different homemade spay booths I would
recommend that you not blow air into a spray booth.
You need to suck the air out.
If you blow the air into the booth area it makes it about the same as
trying to paint outside with a hurricane going on.
Using an HVLP gun and move a moderate amount of air "out" of the booth
(about the same movement you would get from a couple of home box type
fans works well for a space the size of a 2 car garage)
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Return Line |
<< This is a question for you folks with injected engine. Is it necessary
to put a fuel return line on an IO360 engine? The line would return
unused fuel to the (left)tank from downstream of the fuel pump. Van is
mute on the subject as far as I can find. >>
Not necessary. You can get a diverter valve from Airflow Performance that will
allow you to purge your system of hot fuel and vapor (say, as in after a fuel
stop) before attempting a start. I've flown 'em both ways, and the purge
system was a bit easier to start. No difference in flight, tho.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Homebuilt vs Certified |
Y'all
It is sad to see one facet of aviation (experimental aircraft - RVators)
cutting up another (certified aircraft). It doesn't do either side any good
as it is all AVIATION and YOUR right to fly. The two aircraft play by
different rules, have different pilots, and play different rolls. I have
worked (for a living) on both sides of this fence and can tell you from
experience they are just DIFFERENT - no side being better or worse.
I have to side with Doug on this one; in general, homebuilts sacrifice
control harmony, stick force per G, stability, and comfort (reclined
seating, etc.) for speed and fun -all design is a compromise. If the RV-8
were to be certified, it would gain weight, be slower and carry less.
Here's two quick areas I can think of that would need to change. The seat
is not designed for 12G crash loads; this will add a lot of weight (and
therefore cut out some performance). The stick force per G is very low in
the -8 (there is a good article in Sport AV - I think by CAFE - comparing a
Tailwind to a C150 and something else). This change may be as simple as
lengthening the control arms on the control surface side or may require
springs and things - more weight.
While I'm on that note, The control FORCES in the RV aircraft are light (by
design), but the travel (throw) is large. Look at the video of the first
flight of the F-16; here control forces are normal and travel is zero - an
experience test pilot barely makes it around the pattern. The KR-2 has low
forces and low travel (very bad combination); fly with an experienced friend
for a look-see. For an EXPERIENCED pilot flying a SPORT aircraft, Van has
done a great job of compromise; low forces offset by large travel.
Here's two missions for y'all to consider. The first is a beautiful VFR day
(weekend or day off) with free pancakes 200 miles away . . . . I'm jumping
in the RV for a little acro on the way to get free food. The second is a
crappy IFR day when you're shooting an approach to minimums after a 4 hour
flight . . . I'm in the club C182.
I really dislike certified aircraft being called "spam cans"; they play by
different rules and have different missions. Similarly, I wouldn't put a
125 hour instrument pilot, flying single pilot IFR, after a 4 hour trip,
into a busy airport, while shooting an approach to minimums, in an
experimental aircraft, either. Different birds . . . different missions.
Off my box, flame away (I'm wearing Nomex). But until you know (not just
flown) both sides . . . .
FLY-IN-HOME,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
In a message dated 6/23/98 1:17:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, todd(at)lis.net.au
writes:
> This is going to sound like a dumb question, but how do you tell if both
> are working OK if there is no change in engine RPM?
Because if one isn't working the engine will quit when you toggle to that
ignition.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
<< Conversely, I've weighed all of the components and they total 1 1\2
pounds. Remember, "build it light". It introduces a further degree of
complexity into the brake line plumbing. A few more fittings to keep
tight so they don't leak, etc. >>
The Matco valve I installed in my 6A, along with the few fittings and a short
length of Bowden cable to activate it don't weigh much.I'd guess under 1/2 lb
all together. And it will hold my plane on level asphalt at full throttle.
The fittings never leaked, but the o-rongs on the valve shaft did- right out
of the box! fortunately the local hardware had the exact size in stock. The
originals showed galling as if installed without benefit of lubricant. Tsk,
tsk.
I'm not sorry to have parking brake capability in my plane.
BTW, my RV-6A tip-up weighed in at 1034 lbs with an O-320, FP metal prop,
temperfoam seats (7# each!) and a basecoat/clearcoat polyurethane paint job
(but less the wheel pants so far). That didn't seem bad, and I did try to
build light.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 10 hrs.
western VA mountains
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
Try the left - - right - - both switch.
Cecil
writes:
>
>*snip*
>
>
>> Folk with two
>> electronic ignitions get no discernable "mag" drop
>> during preflight.
>>
>
>This is going to sound like a dumb question, but how do you tell if
>both
>are working OK if there is no change in engine RPM?
>
>cheers
>Todd
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheetah(at)saber.net |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
> If you care to respond, have you ever wished you had a parking brake when
> you didn't? Or---did/do you have a parking brake that you never use or
> could do without?
>
> Thanks for your response.
>
> Bob
> RV-4. Plumbing complete except....Working on the panel.
Hi Bob
I have an AA-5A that has had its parking brake removed by a previous
owner years ago. He said that the brake would fail to disengage at
times and then he was stuck until he could get to a maintenance
facility. In my ten years of ownership of the A/C I seldom if ever
missed it.
Rob M.
-8 Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
><engine speed- >>
> I believe you will find a mag drop is caused by the fact
> the combustion is more complete with both sets of plugs
> firing (both mags operating).. Depending on whether one is
> timed more advanced or retarded than the other, rpm will
> increase or decrease. or mag drop will increase or decrease.
> I understand that with a good electronic ign, combustion
> will be as complete as with both mags.
> RVer273sb
As it was explained to me (I can't remember if it was
Jeff or Klaus) the reason you have mag drop is because
at relatively low manifold pressures . . . flame front
propogation is slower to the extent that shutting
off one magneto retards the effective timing (flame
starts from one side of piston and has to travel all
the way to the other side. When both mags are operating,
flame fronts start from both sides simultaneously with
an effective "advance" in timing. This is why preflight
checks of old often referred to a "bumped up" timing
of one magneto if it DIDN'T show an RPM drop when the
other one was turned off.
When operating with an electronic ignition system, both
MAP (manifold absoluted pressure) sensor and RPM affect
timing. At idle and even up to mag-check speeds, the
spark is considerably advanced compared to the other
magneto . . . (if you still have one). Folk with two
electronic ignitions get very small to no discernable
"mag" drop depending on how the knobs are tweeked.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
>This is going to sound like a dumb question, but how do you tell if both
>are working OK if there is no change in engine RPM?
>
The engine continues to run on either ignition . . . the "mag drop"
was more an indication of proper timing of the magnetos with respect
to each other than a test of functionality . . . the magneto has no
way to know what its position is in the mounting hole, it only cranks
out so many sparks per revolution. It's the engine's ability to burn
fuel efficiently that reveals differences in timing and it speaks
to you through the tachometer.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hargrave" <Bobby.Hargrave(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Bearing Lengths |
Paul:
RV8 rudder bearings on my a/c measure top to bottom as follows: 3/4", 1
1/16", 1 1/16" (measured spar to center of bearing hole). As you know,
plans don't give length's for rudder as they do for elev. bearings. The
plans show 2" distance spar to spar at top and 2 1/2" distance spar to spar
distance at bottom of rudder-vertical stab. (See DWG 6PP.) I adjusted my
bearings until I got 2" top and 2 1/2" bottom distances. Counterbalance
horn clearances are appx 1/8" at these settings. Your results may vary. I
bought hemostat pliers which makes installing hinge bolts much easier.
Bob Hargrave
RV8 80706
fiberglass'n emp. tips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
>
>I believe this is why the original design used two spark plugs - it is so
far
>across the combustion chamber. Modern electronic systems belt out a hotter
>spark than the mags can - I think.
Very close . . . some early literature I read some years ago
spoke to the issue of pressure waves outrunning a flame front
during times of high manifold pressures. Obviously, if combustion
was incomplete or slow, advancing the timing of the single spark
would help. But at sea-level, full throttle, the pressure wave out
in front of the flame can cause the remaining mixture to detonate.
One of the fixes was light the fire from both sides so that two
flame fronts approached each other and advanced effective timing
without actually moving the magneto in the hole.
"hotter" spark is only an issue with respect to getting the fire
lit reliably when there's so much turbulence and variability in
mixture adjacent to the plug when it fires. "longer" is more
desirable than "hotter" . . . this is why Klaus's first systems
features the MSD (Mulitple Spark Discharge) igntion units . . .
five, count-em . . . FIVE sparks per plug firing. Neat but expensive.
Capacitor dicharge systems deliver very HOT sparks too . . .but
only one and very short. The automotive guys like inductive energy
storage systems because they have a longer sustained arc at firing
time and better yet, they're cheaper.
Both Jeff and Klaus offer inductive systems.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Should I use new bolts? |
With all this talk of torque specs, I have to wonder about all the times
that I have installed and removed my empennage and other parts. Since
torque specs seem to be so important, is it reccomended that on the final
installation, should one replace with new bolts that will ultimatley only
be tightened one time?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)
Canopy Frame
>
>I must have posted my original message pertaining to this subject in
error. If
>so, I apologize to the other list members for that.
>
>I also apologize for the following post, which is intended for Mike Thompson
>of Austin Texas. His E-mail address was not included is his return posting.
>That was probably my mistake as well.
>
>Mike
>
>An AN3 bolt, is the same size and thread pattern/pitch, as a 10-32 screw.
This
>is listed in the torque charts at 20 inch pounds minimum, and 25 inch pounds
>maximum, when the bolt is used in a tension application such as the one you
>are referring to. I know it doesn't seem like very much, but it is
designed to
>take that bolt to its optimum torque. Ideally that would be exactly 22.5 inch
>pounds.
>
>The theory is like using a 1 inch wrench, and hanging 20 to 25 pounds on the
>end of it. The resultant force around the center of rotation of the wrench
>head, would be 20 to 25 inch pounds torque. An individual who has what one
>might call normal strength, with a little extra twist and a healthy grip, can
>actually come close to or exceed these kinds of torque values with a screw
>driver. I weigh in at a scant 170 pounds, and I can do it.
>
>Most of us are used to working with much heavier fasteners, like the nuts and
>bolts on our automobiles, or something of that nature. Most people over
torque
>those fasteners. I have been known to do it myself.
>
>As we all know, airplanes are designed to be as light and as strong as
>possible, in order to do what they do well. Proper torque on those light
>weight AN fasteners provide that strength to weight ratio. Anything less, and
>they would probably vibrate loose. Anything more, and they would likely
break.
>Its that simple.
>
>Regards
>
>Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
>Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4
>Memphis, Tennessee
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hchristi(at)HDPP.de |
My intention is to build my RV-8 in the upper floor of my house.
No problem: All main parts (fuselage, wings, etc) fit through the balcony
door of the upper floor and can let down by a crane.
But primer spray painting in the living rooms of the house?
My Question is: What are the alternative possibilities?
Priming with a brush?
Thank you for your help
Helge Christiansen
RV-8 .Preparing the workspace for building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
Helge--
And I thought I was painting myself into a corner by building mine in a
basement! Most of the parts to be primed are small enough to be carried
through a door to be primed. Therefore, you should be able to prime
them anywhere else but your house. The largest pieces, the wing and
fuselage skins, should be easily transportable. I've gotten away with
priming some small pieces quickly in the basement, but my wife usually
perks up, wrinkles up her nose and makes me take her out for dinner as
pennance!
Good luck.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
hchristi(at)HDPP.de wrote:
> My intention is to build my RV-8 in the upper floor of my house.
> No problem: All main parts (fuselage, wings, etc) fit through the balcony
> door of the upper floor and can let down by a crane.
> But primer spray painting in the living rooms of the house?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Return Line |
Bob,
My airflow Performance injection has no return line.
There is a return line from the pressure side of the
elect boost pump which goes back to the inlet
of the fuel selector valve. I have had no problems
in hot weather or while heat soaked.
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
What I have done in my shop is to get a bunch of carboard boxes and use
it as carpet and wallpaper for my shop. My company goes through a lot
of computers so getting free boxes is not a problem. My plan is that
after my plane is finished I will take the boxes to the dump and
(hopefully) have a very good and clean garage still. You can do this no
problem. I would not worry about the ceiling too much because I would
be difficult/dangerous to cover that if you have overhead lighting.
But......
There is the issue of paint fumes. Two things to worry about flamable
and hazardous. This may respark the primer jihad, but in my opinion and
experience the primers that are worth the effort to put on are
unfortunately the ones you don't want to be breathing the fumes from in
your house or be striking a match or water heater pilot flame/fireplace
be around.
Can you possibly create a temporary structure outside somewhere that you
can paint the parts there (away from the house). Most of the stuff you
need to paint are about the width of your outstretched arms. You
probably want to paint the outside away from home anyway.
Hope this helps
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hchristi(at)HDPP.de [SMTP:hchristi(at)HDPP.de]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 11:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Priming
>
>
>
> My intention is to build my RV-8 in the upper floor of my house.
> No problem: All main parts (fuselage, wings, etc) fit through the
> balcony
> door of the upper floor and can let down by a crane.
> But primer spray painting in the living rooms of the house?
> My Question is: What are the alternative possibilities?
> Priming with a brush?
>
> Thank you for your help
> Helge Christiansen
> RV-8 .Preparing the workspace for building
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Helge,
You are going to enjoy the RV8 kit!
Here is a possible solution for your priming dilemma:
Prime everything before you move the kits into the house. If possible,
you could unpack and inventory the kit in the driveway, strip the
plastic off the ribs and stuff, strip the plastic off the inside
surfaces of the skins, and prime the entire subkit at one time. You will
save a LOT of time by using this method instead of cranking up the
primer system for several small batches of priming.
I have just about resorted to this same method for time savings even
though I don't have your logistical problems. You definitely do not want
to spray Sherwinn Williams wash primer indoors unless you have quite an
elaborate ventilation scheme; The fumes are potent!
You are beginning an exciting journey....enjoy!
Sam Buchanan (Check my website for reasons why you may not want to do as
much priming as you now think;
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/priming.html )
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
hchristi(at)HDPP.de wrote:
>
>
> My intention is to build my RV-8 in the upper floor of my house.
> No problem: All main parts (fuselage, wings, etc) fit through the balcony
> door of the upper floor and can let down by a crane.
> But primer spray painting in the living rooms of the house?
> My Question is: What are the alternative possibilities?
> Priming with a brush?
>
> Thank you for your help
> Helge Christiansen
> RV-8 .Preparing the workspace for building
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince S. Himsl" <himsl(at)mail.wsu.edu> |
| Subject: | rib/fluting/warp ? |
Hello,
I am fluting gas tank ribs (RV8/T-804) and though I get the sides to lay
flat individually, there is a warp in the ribs such that the entire rib
does not lay flat. I can push gently down on the web of the rib and verify
that each side is flat and true but I can't get the entire rib to lay flat
without pushing on it.
Is there some fluting fine point that I am missing? Once again,
suggestions welcome.
Also thanks to all who sent me suggestions on rib sanding techniques.
Universal opinion was that I was being too anal. Best suggestion was that
I do one task to all the ribs rather than all tasks to one rib. Saves
moving around, setups, etc.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Wings
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
Here's a "safer airplane" - Air Force One.
hal
Wendell wrote:
"A safer airplane, is a very easy thing to define. A safer airplane is
dependent on very careful and safety conscious maintenance personnel (even if
that personnel is you) and a very careful and safety conscious pilot (even if
that pilot is you.)"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ail control pressures |
<< Has anyone out there ever measured the RV4 or RV6 aileron
breakout force and say half aileron force at say 160mph indicated?
Just wondering as trimming roll problems by crimping aileron t/e
changes control forces. RVer273sb RV4 >>
Stew,
I think you would find everyones is slightly different depending on
rig and stick lengths.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
>>
>Doug, I usually agree with you, but not this time. The Pitts and Extra are
>certified. I do agree with the "way more expensive" part.
>
>Steve Johnson
>
>RV-8 #80121
>
Steve,
One example of the difference between the Extra & Pitts Vs the RV is they
both solo from the rear. This makes for a very narrow CG range and hence a
much more consistent pitch force gradient. There are others. Switching to
rear seat solo would make a very different airplane out of the RVs.
All,
I did not want to start a "Pr*m*r" type thread and if I had the famous
"Recall" button I would have used it. Live and Learn. Ronald Blum's said
basically what I was trying to say, only much better. I won't try to argue
all the points I made, I will stand by them. However, my "denial line" was
a bit strong. I apologize for that.
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
I AM ADDING THE HEADPHONE JAX FOR THE GUY IN BACK (FINALLY!), I LOST
DIAGRAMS. Would it just parallel off the main jack? I'm using the open mic
intercom option on my icom a-200. It would be open only when the mics are
switched out of the comm circuit. I'm thinking this should work. Any
advice from some of you experts? All is appreciated. Thanks. Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
I JUST THOUGHT OF ANITHER QUESTION. If you use a adapter to plug 2
headphones into 1 jack, will the built in intercom still work between the 2
headsets? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | The Seventh Annual Northwest RV-Fly-In |
Well, the weather was perfect, and we had a great RV fly-in at
Scappoose this year!
I don't have the exact count but it was very close to 60 RVs,
including one customer-built RV-8 (I believe it was Dick Colliander
of Boise, ID.) Mike Seager was there with the RV-6 "trainer", and
spent most of the day up in the air, evidently doing flight
instruction and demo rides. The factory RV-8A, RV-9, and RV-6T
were all there as well.
The Blackjack Squadron flew TWELVE RVs down from Puget Sound, and did
some perfect formation passes over the field before peeling off one
by one overhead to come in and land. What a sight!
The t-shirts were a big hit -- too big in fact, they sold out very
early. But if you didn't get one, you are in luck, as we will be
doing another run. Go to http://www.edt.com/homewing/flyin98.html to
see the artwork and find out how to order.
Several Young Eagles rides were given from various RVers. Dennis
Jackson was spotted going up with one, and Don Wentz with another,
and I'm sure there were several more.
Janet Wentz and the kids from church did a great job on the food as
usual.
Other than that, it was just a nice, casual, no-frills RV flying,
watching, and BSing event. Just the way we like em.
Thanks everyone for a great fly-in!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | rib/fluting/warp ? |
Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
>though I get the sides to lay
flat individually, there is a warp in the ribs such that the entire rib
does not lay flat.<
I had the same problem, seems advice on flutting is nonexistant. Even
Tony Bingelis says simply "flute and watch the effects" or something along
that line. What I found was that those ribs have a slight twist to them.
Hold down the spar end of the rib to see wich way it is twisted. Gently
grab the nose and spar ends of the rib and gently twist to remove the
factory twist and flute as needed.
One more bit of advice. Don't complain about the condition of the ribs.
Builders of the older kits (-4, -6) had very rough stamped ribs and had to
put in many hours cutting, flutting. I am constantly being told (good
naturdly) that I have it too easy. I was driving down the highway the
other day when I saw a flatbed with two large chucks of raw aluminum. They
measured about 3'x5'x20 and had the weight painted on the side (43,225 or
so). I thought "looks like someone is taking delivery of a -6" ;-> Hope
this helps and maybe avoids a flame.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
dragging my feet on the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
<< I really dislike certified aircraft being called "spam cans" >>
RON
That's kinda too bad you feel this way. I've flown alot of "spam cans"
myself, and I did not select that nickname. However, it is a nickname that
has stuck.
It is kinda like a judge "over-ruling" a lawyer for making a statement to a
jury. The judge can tell the jury to "forget that statement", but many times,
they will not. So, I believe it is too late to find another nickname for
certified airplanes, sorry.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Should I use new bolts? |
<< should one replace with new bolts that will ultimatley only
be tightened one time? >>
PAUL
I do not believe that it would do you any good to replace the bolts, unless
they show quite obvious signs of wear. I "would", however, replace any self-
locking nuts that attach to these bolts, since they are only meant to be
torqued once.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Rush" <gerush(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
When there is talk about spam cans it always seems to apply to Cessnas or
Pipers, any thought on Mooneys (pretty fast and efficient production planes)
Gary
Carlsbad, Ca
80352
Wings in process
-----Original Message-----
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Homebuilt vs Certified
>
>
><< I really dislike certified aircraft being called "spam cans" >>
>
>RON
>That's kinda too bad you feel this way. I've flown alot of "spam cans"
>myself, and I did not select that nickname. However, it is a nickname that
>has stuck.
>It is kinda like a judge "over-ruling" a lawyer for making a statement to a
>jury. The judge can tell the jury to "forget that statement", but many
times,
>they will not. So, I believe it is too late to find another nickname for
>certified airplanes, sorry.
>Jim Nice
>RV6A
>WA State
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Should I use new bolts? |
>
> ...replace any self-
> locking nuts...they are only meant to be
> torqued once.
All my references (including Standard Aircraft Handbook and AC43.13) say
otherwise, with statements like "when self-locking nuts are reused..." and
"do not reuse if they can be run up fingertight". This led me to believe
reuse is okay within reason (like two or three times).
Please cite a contradictory official aircraft reference, 'cause I'm gonna'
have to replace all mine then :( .
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rib/fluting/warp ? |
>
>Hello,
>
>I am fluting gas tank ribs (RV8/T-804) and though I get the sides to lay
>flat individually, there is a warp in the ribs such that the entire rib
>does not lay flat. I can push gently down on the web of the rib and verify
>that each side is flat and true but I can't get the entire rib to lay flat
>without pushing on it.
>
>Is there some fluting fine point that I am missing? Once again,
>suggestions welcome.
Vince,
As long as the ribs are flat on the table when you gently hold both sides
down and the flanges are 90 degrees to the web, you are in good shape. Any
warp is taken care of when you drill the ribs to the skin.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
>
> When there is talk about spam cans it always seems to apply to Cessnas or
> Pipers, any thought on Mooneys (pretty fast and efficient production
planes)
Good thought Gary. I have lots of safety pilot time in my instructor's old
Mooney...nice plane.
The Robin Sport my fiancee is taking aerobatics lessons in is the nicest
"spam" I've ever experienced...has similar wing/power loading to a heavy
RV-6...sbs two-place bubble canopy...two center sticks and dual
throttles...somewhat heavier controls but with very nice harmony and rates.
The first time I got a ride in it I said "VERY un-Cessna like, much more RV
like ". Some spam ain't that bad, especially for those who don't want
to build.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine enamels |
<<
> i found that the paint on my brand new lycoming 0-360 cames off very easy
> by just sratching it with the fingernail.it seems they
> don't use any primer at all .this is not only on the rockercovers but on
> all surfaces.is this normal or did i get a lemon?? >>
answer: yes.
Well what did you expect for $18,000? Picky Picky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pssst! Wanna buy an electronic ignition? |
<<
I believe this is why the original design used two spark plugs - it is so far
across the combustion chamber. Modern electronic systems belt out a hotter
spark than the mags can - I think.
hal
> > I believe you will find a mag drop is caused by the fact
> > the combustion is more complete with both sets of plugs
> > firing (both mags operating)..
> >
> As it was explained to me (I can't remember if it was
> Jeff or Klaus) the reason you have mag drop is because
> at relatively low manifold pressures . . . flame front
> propogation is significant to the extent that shutting
> off one magneto retards the effective timing (flame
> starts from one side of piston and has to travel all
> the way to the other side. When both mags are operating,
> flame fronts start from both sides simultaneously. >>
Absolutely correct on all counts. Want to know the power of your ignition
system? Multiply the spark plug gap by 1000. That's how many volts it puts
out when everything is clean and the center electrode is sharp (charge
accumulates at sharp edges).
Typical magneto .015" = roughly 15,000 volts
your car .040 = 40,000 volts.
big match = big fire
Two mags for reliability (they aren't) and for complete firing (they don't).
Bob
Doing the 6QB fuse top skins tonight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
Bob,
The "spam can" Cessna 172 that I fly while I build my RV-6A has a parking
brake very similar to the pull handle on an old Buick but made of aluminum.
It works great and I frequently find it very handy here in the desert winds.
I plan on putting one in mine!
I would be interested in any systems that you find that are light weight,
inexpensive and simple.
George Stanley
RV-6A, wings almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
Gary, I don't know about others but I have had a lot of problems with
"fuzzies" from painting on or around cardboard. You might want to check
this out before you do any major parts.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>What I have done in my shop is to get a bunch of carboard boxes and use
>it as carpet and wallpaper for my shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
Gary, I have had a lot of problems with "fuzzies" from painting on or
around cardboard. You might want to check this out.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>What I have done in my shop is to get a bunch of carboard boxes and use
>it as carpet and wallpaper for my shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
George,
You must be talking about the old style master cylinders
that had the locking mechinism which actually mechanically
held the cyl down. You might be able to adapt these to the
new cyl.
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Listers
I recevied my harness set from hooker today ( I was told 3 weeks, it
took 9.). The front crotch strap attaches to the top two bolts of the
spar.How thick of a piece alu do I use, and will I have to buy longer
bolts?
How or what do I attach the rear crotch strap to?
Hooker's installations instructions leave a lot to the imagination.
By the way, this is for an RV-4.
Thanks
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Landing RV at 2000' |
Well, confession time again. Seems that I suffer from time to time from
Merlot syndrome. That would be Cabernet (red) Merlot, which causes me to
list to Starboard according to wife. That seems fair and reasonable and the
cause for me to land RV on one wheel (starboard) once in a while. Since no
two of my landings are the same, one from the other, I got some sage advice
from Van's, wherein they suggested to go to 2000' or so, practice stalls,
power off, to get a boo at airspeed to see what she says. ....I did this
today and had to keep nose on scent for I nearly shot down a twin Otter on
the way. I did not though, because a twin is neither fun nor sporting to
pounce upon. I did hear controllers say " watch for fast homebuilt at your
9 o'clock" whereupon Otter says, " I have him, here he comes, there he
goes...jeez..fast...".
Back to the stall thing, I was compelled to smile and say "sweet RV,
isn't she kind"? stalls straight and true at 50, no snaky, dirty drop, just
a shudder, let stick go, and here we are flying again. With this knowledge,
I can now get airspeed right down to land slower, straighter, keep the
bounces down and roll home. I flew today in low cloud layer, some rain
shower, but good visibility. Great day to fly since nobody else was up
except Otter. Great to have all the sky with me and RV, here we are in the
elements, rain beads flowing up the windscreen, wisps of cloud puff kissing
past our brow, out over the water to see the whitecaps blown off the waves
and seals huddled on the beach. I head back home and get cleared #1 for a
delicious Carrier approach, (gear is down on RV) pull off power, and the
turf rises to meet us. A bit of a burst and we settle on the numbers. Thank
you once again, sweet RV and Van's...Could I see and do this in a car or
other ground bound things, all in 20 minutes ? No indeed ! Flight is so
wonderful ! I hoped it would be so for all the hours in the shop and
progress slowly made. I had only me to press me on. I hope that you too,
press on. Come up and join us, we wait hopefully and expectantly with much
welcome in these halls of air. This is where RVs were meant to be.....Come
and be one of us...keep bashing rivets.......Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Should I use new bolts? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I "would", however, replace
>any self-
>locking nuts that attach to these bolts, since they are only meant to
>be
>torqued once.
This is not quite true.
AC43-13-1A Chapter 5
It says that "when fiber self-locking nuts are reused, check the fiber
carefully to make sure it hasn't lost it's locking friction or become
brittle. Do not reuse lock nuts if they can be run up finger tight "
(very insightful of the FAA to give us that piece of information :) ).
I personally evaluate the application and then decide if I will except
the reuse of a nut. I tend to save the used nuts for use on things that
aren't major structure, such as using with Adel clamps, mounting
accessories to the airframe, etc.
As for the reuse of bolts...
As long as when it was originally installed it wasn't damaged (over
torquing, etc.) you should be able to use it.
One possible problem with a used bolt is that if it was installed in a
tight hole sometimes the cad plating can get scraped off.
This could allow rust or corrosion to start later and may be cause for
not using the bolt.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael V Seager <rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
Gary Rush wrote:
>
>
> When there is talk about spam cans it always seems to apply to Cessnas or
> Pipers, any thought on Mooneys (pretty fast and efficient production planes)
Gary, My Mooney goes over 200mph above 10000 ft and hauls four people.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
> My Question is: What are the alternative possibilities?
> Priming with a brush?
First response is ..don't do this.. do not spray in the house....a/c last a
very long time without the priming, but for what parts you must do, brush
if you have no other option.. I did this once.. not terribly pretty, but
gets the job done. Do what you must, brave soul, your obstacles are
obviously not going to get the best of you,,,Bravo......
ound and around to see where it comes up off the
table and keep reducing the flute(s) until it lays flat with no pressure.
If you overcompensate, it will bow the other way..Be judicious.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
George, A.C.S. have a valve that goes in between master cyl and wheel cyl
.... Kinda like a dragster`s line break
Fred LaForge RV-4 Just installed
the inverted oil system. So Cal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net wrote:
> How or what do I attach the rear crotch strap to?
A rear crotch strap?
The mind boggles! A strap for your rear crotch? Or the rearmost crotch
strap in a harness? I can't help but wonder (and wince) about the
damage that such a strap might do in case of an accident. Or even a
non-accident.
> Hooker's installations instructions leave a lot to the imagination.
Yes, well, your post certainly sparked mine!
> By the way, this is for an RV-4.
Oh, I seeeee.... the crotch strap for the rear seat....
Frank :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aeronut <aeronut(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight: Drill Press |
Chris:
I bought a Harbor Freight drill press (table top model) and have not been
pleased. The chuck is not secured to the drive shaft and falls off from
time to time. It's okay for rough work but then, so is my hand operated
electric drill.
George
#80006
-----Original Message-----
From: Kellie D Hand <chriskelhand(at)Juno.com>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 11:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Harbor Freight: Drill Press
>
>I've been looking for a drill press recently and have looked at the
>various sizes of Delta, Craftsman, etc. Today I found a 16
>speed(195-3630RPM), 13" swing, floor type CENTRAL MACHINERY model at
>Harbor Freight Tools in Salinas, CA on sale for $150 (reg. price $199).
>I thought it looked like decent quality and it seemed like a good deal,
>so I bought it.
>Then I checked the archives because I thought I read some negative info
>on Harbor Freight right after I subscribed to the list a month or two
>ago. (Yes, I know I should have checked BEFORE buying!) I did find some
>older comments on the Central Machinerey presses and it seemed pretty
>mixed with some saying they were junk and others saying they were good.
>The ad says there is a 1 yr guarantee on machinery and 90 days on the
>motors.
>
>Does any one have any positive or negative experiences with these drill
>presses that is not already in the archives? A couple of the archive
>messages have me hesitant to open the box and set it up.
>If you feel enough has been said about this on list, then please respond
>off-list.
>
>If any others are interested, they have 5 different models of these
>presses at 25% off thru June 29th.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Chris Hand
>RV-6A, waiting on wing kit, tail done
>Monterey, CA
>chriskelhand(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
Rob Acker wrote:
>
> >
> > When there is talk about spam cans it always seems to apply to
> Cessnas or
> > Pipers, any thought on Mooneys (pretty fast and efficient production
>
> planes)
>
> Think I'm qualified to anwer this one.....I fly a Mooney [65] and take
> my fair share of remarks about 'my spam can' and there is always 'they
> put the tail on backwards' brigade! It is a comfortable craft for the
> over 2hr trips,is basically a two place plus all the baggage my wife
> wants to take along. It also comes in handy for carrying the extra
> baggage that the RVers would like to take to the fly ins but can't! Am
> building an RV 6A[fuselage] and will have one hellova decision to make
> when it's finished[finances won't stretch to keeping both] Have flown
> right seat in my friends RV6. I'm convinced that it will be less
> expensive to maintain the RV having just paid $680 to have my muffler
> rebuilt and am looking at $200 for an AD which just adds a gusset to
> two aileron rods.They are two different machines,I enjoy both. My wife
> thinks home built planes are noisy[they are]she doesn't like wearing a
> head set as it musses up her hair. I guess we should all be so lucky
> to have such problems! Just hope the stock market doesn't take a dump
> or I may finish up with neither.
RV6A Fus. Oregon
>
>
>
> --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brewer, Philip T" <Philip.Brewer(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Harbor Freight: Drill Press |
For the money and quality, you can't go wrong with any Delta product.
I've been using mine for the last 4 years and it is a wonderful drill
press. If you don't have a quality chuck on your press, better stop what
your doing before you end up replaceing some sheet metal etc.
Philip T. Brewer
Supervisor
777 Flight Test & Crew Training
Ph. 655-0007 pager (206) 982-0040
Email: Philip.T.Brewer(at)boeing.com
> ----------
> From: aeronut[SMTP:aeronut(at)mci2000.com]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 8:55 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Harbor Freight: Drill Press
>
>
> Chris:
>
> I bought a Harbor Freight drill press (table top model) and have not
> been
> pleased. The chuck is not secured to the drive shaft and falls off
> from
> time to time. It's okay for rough work but then, so is my hand
> operated
> electric drill.
>
> George
> #80006
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kellie D Hand <chriskelhand(at)Juno.com>
> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 11:33 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Harbor Freight: Drill Press
>
>
> >
> >I've been looking for a drill press recently and have looked at the
> >various sizes of Delta, Craftsman, etc. Today I found a 16
> >speed(195-3630RPM), 13" swing, floor type CENTRAL MACHINERY model at
> >Harbor Freight Tools in Salinas, CA on sale for $150 (reg. price
> $199).
> >I thought it looked like decent quality and it seemed like a good
> deal,
> >so I bought it.
> >Then I checked the archives because I thought I read some negative
> info
> >on Harbor Freight right after I subscribed to the list a month or two
> >ago. (Yes, I know I should have checked BEFORE buying!) I did find
> some
> >older comments on the Central Machinerey presses and it seemed pretty
> >mixed with some saying they were junk and others saying they were
> good.
> >The ad says there is a 1 yr guarantee on machinery and 90 days on the
> >motors.
> >
> >Does any one have any positive or negative experiences with these
> drill
> >presses that is not already in the archives? A couple of the
> archive
> >messages have me hesitant to open the box and set it up.
> >If you feel enough has been said about this on list, then please
> respond
> >off-list.
> >
> >If any others are interested, they have 5 different models of these
> >presses at 25% off thru June 29th.
> >
> >Thanks for your help.
> >
> >Chris Hand
> >RV-6A, waiting on wing kit, tail done
> >Monterey, CA
> >chriskelhand(at)juno.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I find a flywheel? |
Listers,
I acquired a 0-360 A4M and it came without a flywheel & ring gear. I have a
Prestolite starter and so need a 149 tooth ring gear and my AME says that the ring
gear should fit flush with the back of the flywheel. I have looked for sometime
without success. If any of you can help out it will be appreciated.
Please E-mail me off this list.
Thanks in advance.
Doug Murray RV-6
Working on engine compartment.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
<35907366.827FED68(at)pec.co.nz>
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>> How or what do I attach the rear crotch strap to?
>
>A rear crotch strap?
>
>The mind boggles! A strap for your rear crotch? Or the rearmost crotch
>strap in a harness? I can't help but wonder (and wince) about the
>damage that such a strap might do in case of an accident. Or even a
>non-accident.
>
>> Hooker's installations instructions leave a lot to the imagination.
>
>Yes, well, your post certainly sparked mine!
>
>> By the way, this is for an RV-4.
>
>Oh, I seeeee.... the crotch strap for the rear seat....
>
>Frank :-)
>
>
>
Thank you Frank!
I needed a good laugh in a bad way!!!!!
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How you like your spam! |
Jim Nice, I agree --I like Spam! However, the name has stuck and it will
always be so. I remember my first flight lesson --the grizzled old lady who
started me out introduced me to her tired old Piper 140 as a Spam Can--who am
I (18 or so at the time) to argue with a 20,000 plus hour Grumpy old lady with
a patch on her eye who was flying when Lindy was in diapers ( some
imbellishment here guys). If she said they was "Spam Cans" then dang nabbit
--they is Spam Cans. You know, perhaps, the Spam Cans need their own list
werein they can extoll the wonderous virtues of their fabulous steeds at the
expense of us homebuilders--lets see--there must be some mildy derrogatory
name we can attach forever more to homebuilts (in general) but then I suppose
in this ever more politically correct world we live in, perhaps, we should
just all call them aeroplanes afterall. JR with Spam in Face
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Should I use new bolts? |
<<
It says that "when fiber self-locking nuts are reused, check the fiber
carefully to make sure it hasn't lost it's locking friction or become
brittle. Do not reuse lock nuts if they can be run up finger tight "
( >>
Why would you use self locking nuts and AN bolts on initial assembly? I use
hardware store nuts and bolts for inital fitting. You can install and remove
the nuts with your fingers. This eliminates the problem of damaged nuts and
bolts.
Cash Copeland
RV-6QB 75%Finished 75%To Go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming with roller |
>> My Question is: What are the alternative possibilities?
>> Priming with a brush?
(snip)
I experimented with a small roller 1"dia x 3"to 4" wide and two part epoxy
primer sealer. I got better than expected results. I rolled the primer out
very thin. The result was much better than brushing, though not as good
looking as spraying,(HVLP), uniformity of coat thickness was easy to
control. The hardware store replaceable roller stood three cleanings with
MEK before breaking down. With some but not too much effort the larger (out
of sight) interior surfaces could be done this way. I don't think smaller
and or complicated parts would work with this system. My reason for trying
this experiment was weather related last winter, poor planning on my part
left me with unpainted wing walk doublers.
jim RV6-eh Tanks.
* When dreams come true the sky's the limit *
jjewell(at)okanagan.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
<< I recevied my harness set from hooker today ( I was told 3 weeks, it
took 9.). The front crotch strap attaches to the top two bolts of the
spar.How thick of a piece alu do I use, and will I have to buy longer
bolts?
How or what do I attach the rear crotch strap to?
Hooker's installations instructions leave a lot to the imagination.
By the way, this is for an RV-4. >>
Craig,
Since Frank and Scott thought your post was funny I thought I might
pass on the overwhelming temptation to do the same and give you a real answer.
First of all you need to know that almost anyone in the buisness who tells
you 3 weeks really means 6 months. So I think you got your harnesses in a
pretty reasonable amount of time.( I hope you have your prop and interior!) I
couldnt help but notice that you didnt complain about the quality of your
harnesses.
I used a piece of 90deg aluminum angle a quarter inch thick for the forward
atatch. I installed it with the two center spar bolts and as I recall I did
not have to find longer bolts. You can use an NAS type nut instead of the AN
nut and gain a few threads.
I have seen it installed many different ways in the rear seat. I have seen
them looped around the flap bar ( I dont like this way). I have seen a bracket
riveted between the floor beams under the seat. In my case I built a doubler
and tripler of .063 plate and riveted to my seat riser on the forward end. I
installed a nut plate on the inside and run a bolt through the fifth point
there. This works great. My wife was the one who requested the fifth point
because she didnt like the harness riding up her stomach twards her chest as
time went on. Good Luck
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Harbor Freight: Drill Press |
I had the same problem with a Hitachi bench drill. Cleaned the oil off the shaft
and chuck socket, added a drop or two of Loctite Stud Lock and wound the bed up.
After the chuck was reefed onto the shaft against the bed, I have had no more
problems.
Press fits are very common for this service to ensure a straight running fit.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Harbor Freight: Drill Press
Date: 23-06-98 22:55
Chris:
I bought a Harbor Freight drill press (table top model) and have not been
pleased. The chuck is not secured to the drive shaft and falls off from
time to time. It's okay for rough work but then, so is my hand operated
electric drill.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's Michigan Wing mailing list |
| From: | Kate and/or Jack <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> |
Van's Michigan Wing is trying something new. Subscribe to our mailing
list at < http://www.onelist.com/subscribe.cgi/rvmi> It's "free" but
there will be ads.
Kate
Van's Michigan Wing
Still on the empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Homebuilt vs Certified |
>>>any thought on Mooneys (pretty fast and efficient production
planes)
Mooneys are great although I guess technically they are spam
cans. Their aircraft systems are very mature and fail safe, I am trying
to pattern my systems after Mooney's.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A, Misc finishing kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
JIM,
another good name for spam cans, its the name i call everyone below 30,000
ft. "bottom feeders" that puts us all in the same catagory !!!
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Should I use new bolts? |
In industry, when bolts are torqued to maximum limits they stretch and
occasionally take on a permanent extension. I might refer you to the
current thread referring to springs changing their length, bolts
tensioned to rated torques behave similarly, this is why it is wise to
check your bolt torques after the early flights as the bolts (and the
surrounding metal) are deforming underload. A properly torqued bolt
(loaded in tension) is at 95% of its ultimate load in tension and well
above its yield strength.
The net result of this is for severe service (drive line couplings and
high pressure or load flanges) the bolts are replaced when ever the
load is removed (ie bolt is undone). Lycoming recommend the same with
the crankcase studs on their engines if any are found to be loose in
servicing the engine. This is due to the deformation of the threads,
microcracking in the thread roots and similar problems with heat and
corrosion hidden form the eye. You could crack test the bolts but
unless they are very large, a special material or design, dye
penetrant and/or magnafluxing is not economic.
For loads in shear the bolt is never tensioned to these levels as the
intent is just to stop it rotating and/or falling out so should last
as long as corrosion permits as do rivets which are similar in
behavior.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Should I use new bolts?
Date: 23-06-98 22:44
I "would", however, replace
>any self-
>locking nuts that attach to these bolts, since they are only meant to
>be
>torqued once.
This is not quite true.
AC43-13-1A Chapter 5
It says that "when fiber self-locking nuts are reused, check the fiber
carefully to make sure it hasn't lost it's locking friction or become
brittle. Do not reuse lock nuts if they can be run up finger tight "
(very insightful of the FAA to give us that piece of information :) ).
I personally evaluate the application and then decide if I will except
the reuse of a nut. I tend to save the used nuts for use on things that
aren't major structure, such as using with Adel clamps, mounting
accessories to the airframe, etc.
As for the reuse of bolts...
As long as when it was originally installed it wasn't damaged (over
torquing, etc.) you should be able to use it.
One possible problem with a used bolt is that if it was installed in a
tight hole sometimes the cad plating can get scraped off.
This could allow rust or corrosion to start later and may be cause for
not using the bolt.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How you like your spam! |
---JRWillJR(at)aol.com wrote:
>
You know, perhaps, the Spam Cans need their own list
> werein they can extoll the wonderous virtues of their fabulous
steeds at the
> expense of us homebuilders--lets see--there must be some mildy
derrogatory
> name we can attach forever more to homebuilts
There is a derrogatory term attached to us homebuilders. It is
EXPERIMENTAL.
I wear mine with pride just like my NRA pin.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | -6A "False Spar" Method |
I had an interesting conversation yesterday with Van's. I have limited
construction space, so am using the "false spar" method of installing
the landing gear mounts. For those who don't know this method, check
the matronics library of email messages for lots of good details.
One of the major concerns with this method has been drilling bolt holes
accurately through the false spar. According to Van's, however,
absolute accuracy of the holes is not really necessary, since it is
compression which holds the lg mounts to the spar. This is not to say
that the holes can be sloppy: however, if they are off by a small
amount, it apparently won't be that critical.
I suggested, and Van's agreed, that the lg be mounted on the false spar
by drilling only enough holes to hold the mountings. This allows the
mounts to be positioned properly relative to the spar, longerons, etc.
Then, the lg mounts can be removed and set aside for actual assembly
later. At the time of actual assembly, the lg mounts can be installed
on the spar, using the few bolt holes already drilled. The remaining
bolt holes can then be drilled through the spar and lg mounts. This
assures complete accuracy of the remaining bolt holes (even if the few
original holes are off a bit).
Hope this helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
<< RV-List message posted by: Craig Hiers
Listers
I recevied my harness set from hooker today ( I was told 3 weeks, it
took 9.). The front crotch strap attaches to the top two bolts of the
spar.How thick of a piece alu do I use, and will I have to buy longer
bolts?
We make a pc from 1/8" plate. Cut a slot in the pc, and do away with the
adjustment thingy on the front strap. I recall sending this pc back for
rebuild, as it wouldn't quite work- either too long, or too short. Std bolts
should be OK. Watch it so you don't change the location of the front torque
tube mount rod end.
How or what do I attach the rear crotch strap to?
Make a pc of 1x1x1/8" angle that spans across the center floor ribs, with the
same style of slot as the front pc. Attach it with at least 4 AN3 fasteners to
the 063 angle attached to the top of the inner floor ribs and the #6 blkhd
between the ribs. I have my angle with the flange towards the back to help
hold the rear bottom cushion in place. The adjuster stays on this pc.
Hooker's installations instructions leave a lot to the imagination.
Uh-huh....
By the way, this is for an RV-4.
Check six!
Mark
Thanks
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL. >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | rib/fluting/warp ? |
-----Original Message-----Gently smack out some of the
flute in the area that rises up off
the table.
To "unflute" you can also just reverse your fluting
pliers and gently press the flute a little flatter.
By the way, this Vemonter is temporarily in San
Francisco on business and expects to have this afternoon and part of the
early evening free to visit any Bay area RVAtors who could spare a
minute to let me see their projects or airplanes. Respond off-list to
ssoule(at)pfclaw.com and I'll call if things work out.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A on the other side of the continent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert l. wadsworth" <RobertLWadsworth(at)compuserve.com> |
I have been off RV-list for some months. What is Van's reply to the
prototype RV-8 crash?
Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I find a flywheel? |
<< my AME says that the ring
gear should fit flush with the back of the flywheel. >>
I once had an AME show an inordinate interest in my prostate as part of a 3rd
class medical exam (I never went back), but never met one who was concerned
about the fit of my ring gear. Sounds like the anal type...
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Bocox" <rbocox(at)ryko.com> |
| Subject: | Water Pressure Gauges |
On my 6A with the Buick V-8, I have purchased 2 water pressure gauges. I know
that I need these two gauges in my cooling system, but, for the life of me, I
cannot remember where are the best places in the cooling system to put the senders.
I would appreciate any assistance with locating these senders, and why.
Please help an old guy whos memory is failing.
Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ]
RV-6A N872RF Buick V-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
Van's also stocks a parking brake valve now (must be some demand!) and is a
lot less expensive than the Cleveland from ACS at $148 (catalog shows $98
but like a lot of prices therein, it isn't current).
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>George, A.C.S. have a valve that goes in between master cyl and wheel
cyl
>.... Kinda like a dragster`s line break
> Fred LaForge RV-4 Just installed the inverted oil system. So Cal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How you like your spam! |
>There is a derrogatory term attached to us homebuilders. It is
>EXPERIMENTAL.
>
>I wear mine with pride just like my NRA pin.
>
>
I'm very proud of my experimental designation. Three weeks ago, I was
landing at New Bedford (class D). After initial contact, all radio
communications referred to me as Experimental 6RV, until landing. While
making the turn off, the tower said "Cessna 6RV, contact ground." I
responded, "EXPERIMENTAL 506RV, going to ground." My wife looked at me and
said, "Boy you can tell by the tone in your voice that guy pi%$ed you off."
I don't take insults very well :)
Scott Gesele Experimental 506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
A
>
>I have been off RV-list for some months. What is Van's reply to the
>prototype RV-8 crash?
Check the website, it says all there is to say at this time
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I find a flywheel? |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
> I once had an AME show an inordinate interest in my prostate as part of a 3rd
> class medical exam (I never went back), but never met one who was concerned
> about the fit of my ring gear. Sounds like the anal type...
>
> -BB
>
BB - Sorry for the confusion, Here in Canada an AME is an Airframe Mechanical
Engineer. Our Doctors are called CAME
Civil Aviation Medical Examiner.
BTW Do you have any idea where I might find the flywheel I am looking for?
Thanks
DGM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | RV-ation Bookstore at Longmont |
RV-ation Bookstore will be in the indoor exhibit hall at the Longmont,
Colorado Fly-in this Saturday and Sunday.
See you there!
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paul lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> |
J.C. Whitney, the Chicago based mailorder accessory catalog sells a
little inline parking brake that works fine as a hydraulic lock to one
wheel. It is a small spring loaded valve that holds line pressure untell
you reapply the brakes to release it. I mounted mine on the left side of
my 6A near the landing gear weldment where it is easy to reach when
needed, but out of the way enough not to be a problem otherwise. It
weighs very little and in that location required only an extra six to
eight inches of hose to mount. I spoke with the manufacturer and he said
for hydraulic fluid like airplanes use he recommended the one listed for
silicone brake fluid (they list two models, one for standard automotive
brake fluid, the other for silicone). My 6A is not in the air yet, so I
don't know how I will like it in a year, but I have used an identical
unit in the past on race cars with no problems. Best of all the cost is
very low. I don't have a catalog right now to check, but I think it was
around $20. Maybe someone else on the list and tell us the price these
days.
Cheers, Paul Lein, 6A in Michigan doing !!!!&%#@ intersection farings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I find a flywheel? |
DGM-
Try 1-800-366-4746. That's a number that has appeared in Trade-A-Plane for
months (years?). Please let me know if you have any luck, I need one for
my Lyc. O-290 (but don't have a started yet. . . so I have to wait).
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 Starting wing spar mod
>BTW Do you have any idea where I might find the flywheel I am looking for?
>
>Thanks
>DGM
>
>
>
>
>
>
Rob Reece
Microcosm Site Manager - Rocket Engine Test Site (RTS),
Scorpius Launch Coordinator/Liaison Engineer,
Microcosm/InfoTech
c/o EMRTC
New Mexico Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
Phone: (505) 835-5716
Fax: (505) 835-5714/5680
Email: reece(at)rt66.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbabell(at)mediaone.net |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> another good name for spam cans, its the name i call everyone below 30,000
> ft. "bottom feeders" that puts us all in the same catagory !!!
> scott
My son, an F-15 pilot for the ANG and a DC-8 pilot for UPS, calls us all "bug
smashers."
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water Pressure Gauges |
Roger,
I have a Mazda 13B for a power plant in my RV-6. I have a coolant pressure
gage and temperature gage. The critical coolant temperature measurement point
is as the coolant comes out of the block (water pump exit) and that is where
my coolant temperature sensor is located. I initially had a second coolant temp
gage after the second radiator (I have two
radiators in series) for testing purposes. However, for operational purposes on
my system the critical temperature measurement is the temp of the coolant as
it leaves the block, so I only have that one installed now.
Hopes this helps.
Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW
anderson_ed(at)bah.com
Roger Bocox wrote:
>
> On my 6A with the Buick V-8, I have purchased 2 water pressure gauges. I know
that I need these two gauges in my cooling system, but, for the life of me,
I cannot remember where are the best places in the cooling system to put the senders.
I would appreciate any assistance with locating these senders, and why.
Please help an old guy whos memory is failing.
>
> Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ]
> RV-6A N872RF Buick V-8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6A "False Spar" Method |
Bill Thomas wrote:
>
> I had an interesting conversation yesterday with Van's. I have limited
>
> construction space, so am using the "false spar" method of installing
> the landing gear mounts. For those who don't know this method, check
> the matronics library of email messages for lots of good details.
>
> One of the major concerns with this method has been drilling bolt
> holes
> accurately through the false spar. According to Van's, however,
> absolute accuracy of the holes is not really necessary, since it is
> compression which holds the lg mounts to the spar. This is not to say
>
> that the holes can be sloppy: however, if they are off by a small
> amount, it apparently won't be that critical.
>
(snip)
I used the false spar method and the holes came out in perfect
alignment.
Briefly, here is the method I used. Contact me offline for details.
I had a couple wooden spars planed to exactly 1.2", I ordered the drill
bits the Avery's sells for
drilling the gear mounts, and then did the following:
I marked about a dozen holes on the bulkhead on each side that I wanted
to drill through the wood
spar. I then clamped the bulkhead to the wood spar using 1/8 inch
spacers between the bulkhead
(so the bit could go through the bulkhead and be guided straight into
the wood spar without opening the holes in the bulkhead) made sure my
drill bit was exactly 90 degrees to the table and using the holes
in the bulhead as guides (drill bit sides are smooth and a very close
fit) drilled the holes and immediately
filled the hole with an AN3 bolt so nothing would move before moving to
the next hole.
The holes came out so snug that I had to use Beolube to get the bolts
through the wood smoothly. All holes lined
up perfectly.
Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage Skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)geon.com> |
| Subject: | Should I use new bolts? |
If Nylock or similar nuts are reused, how about using a thread locking
compound such as Loctite when making final installation? What is the
opinion of using this type of product in aircraft assembly? I would
think the non-hardening (or even hardening for certain applications)
would work well. We use it quite a bit on turbine safety trip
mechanisms in the industrial environment.
Bryan Jones, Pearland, TX
RV-8 80313, attaching skins to top of fuselage
> > ...replace any self-
> > locking nuts...they are only meant to be
> > torqued once.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John C. Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: -6A "False Spar" Method |
Bill,
I hope you are right. My fuselage has been on the false spar with
gear legs attached for 4 months. Just mounted the engine. The wings
will be attached in a month and I'm keeping my fingers crossed the holes
line up reasonably well.
My predrilled 604 bulkhead was drilled to the false spar by using a
free standing drill press with two helpers trying to keep the drill bit
orthogonal to the assembly. Using this assembly (604 bulkhead & drilled
false spar) as a drill guide, the leg mounts were drilled with a 12 in
3/16 drill bit in a handheld drill after the fuselage was turned
rightside up. It was much easier than anticipated.
If I had to do it over again, I'd use a laminated hardwood for the
spar strips with a softwood web rather than softwood troughout.
Good luck,
John Devlin
RV-6A, SW Georgia, Chevy powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
I ordered some of marv goldens anr headsets. They are supposed to be as
good as my lightspeed 20k's. At least that is what marv said. I have
decided to run my backseat headset in parallel with the front seat headset,
with a ptt for the back guy to use when I have the built in radio intercom
switched on. Using the built in intercom just makes it an open mic ckt
where you can talk freely without pushing buttons. I suppose without the
back ptt, the back set could break in on a transmission by the pilot if both
ptt's were pushed at the same time. It would help if I had the wire
diagrams. If anyone thinks I will have problems with this, say something.
I apppreciate all advice. Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Aero Harnesses (was Re: Hooker harness) |
The post about Hooker Harnesses inspired me to give a plug to Rob
Huntziger's Pacific Aero Harness, up in Bothell Washington. Rob makes
5 point harnesses for RVs, Long-ezs and VariEzes exclusively. They
can be seen at <http://home.att.net/~robh/>.
I have had a look at a set and the fact that they are not TSO/PMAd
(i.e. the paperwork doesn't outweigh the product) doesn't deter me in
the least. These look very much like Hooker Harnesses but without the
shoulder pads and belly patch, and use the same or similar MIL-SPEC
hardware. They are priced very favorably, at $125/set. Rob is an
ex-Navy parachute rigger and quality is first rate.
Disclaimer: I have no connection with the company.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark J Reisdorfer" <mreisdorfer(at)ipapilot.org> |
News from a buddy who has just returned from a Van's tour and will soon be
another RV8 builder.
N118RV, the RV8 prototype was being outfitted with a Franklin 220 hp. He
thought it should be flying in the next few weeks. Another friend who has
recently completed a Velocity with a Franklin and 3 blade in-flight
adjustable Ivo-prop has been pleased thus far with the engine and prop
combination.
I am looking forward to hearing how this installation goes and also weight
and perf numbers.
Mark Reisdorfer
Floyds Knobs, IN
RV8 #80020
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | ATS Rivet Gun model 2606 |
Has anyone used the ATS model 2606 (lists at $99.95) rivet gun before?
They say it's recommended by Van's, Mustang Aeronautics, and for the T-18.
. . and I was thinking about purchasing it? Didn't look to see if this was
in the achieves? I'll check and if anyone has any insight. . . .thanks!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (starting spar mods)
Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | ATS Rivet Gun model 2602 |
Sorry. . . it's ATS model 2602 rivet gun.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (starting spar mods)
Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
I really don't think there is much, if any, true animosity directed at
Production GA by homebuilders. Sure we RV guys love to bash "spam cans"
and their drivers when talking amongst ourselves. Heck, I myself use
the term, with what is probably the typical homebuilders' mixture of
supressed endearment and mock distain. But it's really just a nickname,
and it doesn't mean that I'll ever forget that it was a "smam can" that
lifted me into the air on that first introductory flight lesson, a "spam
can" that carried me out beyond the horizon on those unforgettable solo
cross-countries, and a "spam can" that sits there on the ramp, all
certified and maintained and ready to fly, on those weekends when I
decide it is too good a day to spend inside working on my project. I'm
sure I'm not alone in feeling this way.
When I first started taking lessons in conventional gear aircraft, my
dad was greatly offended at hearing me refer to them as "taildraggers".
In his day, that was most decidedly a derogatory term. Now we all call
them that. How times change!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Franklin on RV8 |
>N118RV, the RV8 prototype was being outfitted with a Franklin 220 hp. He
>thought it should be flying in the next few weeks.
Thanks for posting this.
I can't wait to see how it comes out. If Van's can get a good discount on these
engines, it should be just the ticket for my 8A.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Web page update |
G'day listers.
I have added a few pics to my web page, including some showing my wing
carriage, if you are going to be in need of one soon. It might give you
some ideas.
Boy, I can't wait to find out how that Franklin does in the -8
prototype! All accounts I've heard about this engine have been
favorable. For those of us in the "high and dry" dessert...an extra bit
of horsepower is a blessing!
Brian Denk
-8 #379
fuselage on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau) |
| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight: Drill Press |
George,
I bought one of the Harbor Freight Floor Model Drill Presses and had
the same problem with keeping the chuck in the head of the press. It
it absolutely a necessity that you clean off all the grease from the
spindle of the chuck as well as the spindle taper into which it fits.
You will then need to press fit (or tap lightly with a rubber mallet)
to seat it into the drill press.
Good luck.
Chris,
The drill press is definitely NOT Delta Quality and more than adequate
for building an RV or 2, plus other miscellaneous woodworking tasks
around the garage and on my honey-do list.
I have the 1hp floor model w/oiler (haven't used the oiler attachment
yet) item 583-1.
Hope this helps.
Paul M. Bilodeau
pbilodeau(at)att.com
732-957-6611
RV-6A Empennage
Building Horizontal Stabilizer.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lm4(at)Juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
Well,
I've heard several reports on Drill Presses over the past two
years and have shopped a lot of stores until I think I know something
about them. First, I've been using the professional type for a bit over
thirty years so my expectations are kind of high. Given what I have seen
I have been pretty disappointed on price or quality or both. The closest
thing to what I think is pretty good is the Sears $400.00 model. I'll be
darned if I'll pay that much for that press. Also it seems that Sears is
jerking the public around with the way they rate their engines and
motors. If you happen to see the $400.00 dollar job notice that the sign
on the front mentions 1-1/2 HP, I think. I'm sure there is no HP rating
on the motor. Well a few weeks I dropped in to my nearby Farm Equipment
department store and WOW. They were having a sale on a press that looks
like the Sears $400.00 job. Two things different. 1. The motor is 3/4 HP,
says so on the motor. 2. The price was $200.00 Heres the best I can do as
far as an address
14"--16 speed" Tradesman" from Power tool specialists Inc.
E. Windsor Conn. 06088 Taiwan--1800-243-5114--Mod. 8100s
The Store is Central Tractor and they are in Del. Ind. Iowa. Ken. Mar.
Mass. Minn. miss. N.J. N.Y. Ohio. Penn. Tenn. Ver. Virg. Wis.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Should I use new bolts? |
My experience as an A&E mechanic USAF 1953--1957 offers this info for you!
In those days, self locking nuts had fiber washers encapsulated in the nuts.
These were to be used only once and then tossed. If you reused them they
could be screwed on with the fingers. Today's nylon washers encapsulated in
the nuts can be used several times before you can screw them on with your
fingers at which time they are to be discarded! Use your good judgment, you
can tell if a nut screws on with reasonable resistance or not! Hope this
helps! Bolts that are scarred, grooved, dug into by to much of an
interference fit, beat on, dented threads, etc., should be discarded. If they
are simply shiny (smooth) from use they are OK. Old bolts (20--30 yrs) should
be replaced if they are doing a critical job: Prop, Engine Mount, Firewall
Mount, etc. It's good to be particular but not ridicules. Good luck and keep
building!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How you like your spam! |
<< You know, perhaps, the Spam Cans need their own list
werein they can extoll the wonderous virtues of their fabulous steeds at the
expense of us homebuilders--lets see--there must be some mildy derrogatory
name we can attach forever more to homebuilts (in general) but then I suppose
in this ever more politically correct world we live in, perhaps, we should
just all call them aeroplanes afterall. >>
Hey JR
Doug Rozenthall calls his former homebuilt the "Lawn Dart".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
<< its the name i call everyone below 30,000
ft. "bottom feeders" that puts us all in the same catagory !!!
scott >>
HOW TRUE IT IS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)bigskytel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Should I use new bolts? |
Hi Rob,
I wouldn't replace all of them. The "standard" is not to be able to turn
them with finger pressure. It takes a LOT of times on and off to get to
this point. Personally, on bolts that are subject to rotation (hinge
brackets, bellcranks, etc) I will only use them once. If I have to take
one of these off for some reason, I'll drop it into the "used once" bin.
I'll then use them a second time for less critical applications - securing
clamps, grounding wires, and other non-structural places. After twice, I
toss 'em. They're probably still okay, but as cheap as they are, it
doesn't bother me.
Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy@bigskytel.com - http://www.bigskytel.com/~ebundy/
> All my references (including Standard Aircraft Handbook and AC43.13) say
> otherwise, with statements like "when self-locking nuts are reused..."
and
> "do not reuse if they can be run up fingertight". This led me to believe
> reuse is okay within reason (like two or three times).
>
> Please cite a contradictory official aircraft reference, 'cause I'm
gonna'
> have to replace all mine then :( .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ATS Rivet Gun model 2606 |
Rob Reece wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used the ATS model 2606 (lists at $99.95) rivet gun before?
I purchased one and shipped it back. The trigger action on mine was
either on or off. I strongly recommend you invest in a quality rebuilt
gun if your interested in value. New or rebuilt, I believe you will need
to spend $140.00 to $160.00 to get a good rivet gun.
Mike Mckenna
Ga. (RV-8 elevators)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
What is the worth of RV ? How does she feel ? How good is she at what she
does ? ...Think. Just think all of you flyers from 20 to 75 and beyond,
when last you held in your grasp a partner so thrilling, so nimble, so
willing, so light. Was her name Miss Luscombe, Miss Pitts ? Did she make
you feel so happy as this, so the scent of her (though it be oil and gas)
be very distinct and make you call up your memory of such wonderful times
together ?
Nothing trained or prepared me for such as this, but it matters not to her
that my dancesteps are less than fluid, but if my hold is light and I show
that I care, she is quite forgiving....Never before have I flown close
company with another, and big brother probably would not approve, but up
here sometimes, another RV appears and we form up together to stay in step
and enjoy the journey. Have you ever seen the golden disc of a prop slide
in close as the late sun hilights the cowl and canopy of your partner ?
How fair of face she is ! Take a light hold and lift the wing and together
you describe such a beautiful arc as two skaters on the ice. It is always a
surprise at just how easy it is in RV to hold course, position, altitude
and place, if you are graceful. It looks so pretty and it feels so
good...Our dancefloor is the sky, out over the water, along the beach, over
the fields and home in the fading twilight. The grass is now dark, we land
in turn, go home , shut down, and listen to the ticks of RV as she says
goodnight again.
We say 'bye for now as it is getting late and it is time to turn the
flying over to the night pilots as the hawks and owls and falcons take wing
and show us how it is to really dance the night air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
---paul lein <37xjglj(at)cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> wrote:
>
>
> J.C. Whitney, the Chicago based mailorder accessory catalog sells a
> little inline parking brake that works fine as a hydraulic lock to
one
> wheel. It is a small spring loaded valve that holds line pressure
untell
> you reapply the brakes to release it. I mounted mine on the left
side of
> my 6A near the landing gear weldment where it is easy to reach when
> needed, but out of the way enough not to be a problem otherwise. It
> weighs very little and in that location required only an extra six to
> eight inches of hose to mount. I spoke with the manufacturer and he
said
> for hydraulic fluid like airplanes use he recommended the one listed
for
> silicone brake fluid (they list two models, one for standard
automotive
> brake fluid, the other for silicone). I don't have a catalog right
now to check, but I think it was
> around $20. Maybe someone else on the list and tell us the price
these
> days.
> Cheers, Paul Lein, 6A in Michigan doing !!!!&%#@ intersection farings.
J.C.Whitney Catalog no 616-1A arrived today. On page 183 the single
valve for one brake lists for $24.99 each. Shipping is $11.55 for two
to California. A FREE J.C. Whitney catalog can be had at:
http://www.jcwhitneyusa.com/freecatalogs/
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ATS Rivet Gun model 2606 |
> >
> > Has anyone used the ATS...
Sorry...I can't resist. To me ATS stands for All Tools Suck (or insert
other favorite 's' word), Inc. Buying good tools for the entire project
will cost you maybe $500 over the crummy stuff, and result in better work.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhilipR920(at)aol.com |
I'm ready to purchase paint for my 6A and am getting widely varying
recommendations re the amount required from local "proffesionals."
I'm going to be using a HVLP system and would appreciate advice from those who
have used this system.
Thanks,
Phil Rogerson
Fernandina Beach, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
-----Original Message-----
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 6:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: interesting passengers
Another good barometer of safety is insurance rates. Companies
>that insure both homebuilts and production aircraft charge about the
>same rates for owners of either type of airplane. That indicates a
>similar level of risk."
>
>Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
>San Jose, CA Finishing Kit...
>
Michael,
I take strong exception to your statement about insurance rates. I just
called my insurance broker who concurs with me that insurance rates are MUCH
higher for homebuilts. In my case (2400 hours, instrument rated) my RV6A
will cost me 1.5 to two times as much to insure as my C172 for the same
levels of coverage. Everyone I know (couple of dozen) who have insured a
homebuilt and a certified plane attest to the large discrepancy.
Dennis Persyk 6A canopy
Barrington, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
Corsair: GOOD STUFF! Keep it coming, you have a true gift of being able to
put into words MY exact feelings, (I mean OUR feelings)!
Well done.
Walt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies |
Does anybody on the list have any experience with the Schroth Harnesses by
Morris Technologies? I found out about them from a link from Van's page, as
I recall.
In any case, they advertise all sorts of gee whiz features, and they want a ton
of money for them ($350 each or $625 for a pair is the "RV List" price). The
feature that caught my eye was the "RFR Technology Buckle" that is
supposed to release easily under load. This caught my attention because
my grandfather has described tangling his Luscomb's gear in the soybeans
(reeeaaallly low flying) and found himself upside down in the bean field
hanging from his straps... couldn't get the seatbelt off. He wasn't tall enough
to push himself UP off the ceiling to relieve pressure on the belt, so he just
hung there waiting for his tall passenger to extricate them both. I guess he'd
still be hanging there if he'd been solo.
Now I don't intend to follow in Grandpa's footsteps (or furrows), but it would
be
nice if my vertically challenged wife could get her seatbelt off if we ever found
ourselves in such a situation.
Any listers have any experience with releasing Pacific Aero or Hooker latches
under tension?
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
Their aircraft systems are very mature and fail safe, I am
>trying
>to pattern my systems after Mooney's.
>
> Gary Fesenbek
> RV6A, Misc finishing kit stuff
>
>
>
>So Gary.... you going to have a swing away motor mount?
Sorry, I just couldn't resist.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
nly
requirement is that on initial call up you identify your self as
experimental.
I usually use something like "Experimental RV 58VA . . ."
They will often return the call as the same.
Whether they do or not; all of the calls that I make after the initial
are made with "RV 58VA . . . ".
I have never had any controller make any negative comment to this
procedure. If anyone knows the FAR's to say otherwise, please let me
know.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Should I use new bolts? |
>I wouldn't replace all of them. The "standard" is not to be able to turn
>them with finger pressure. It takes a LOT of times on and off to get to
>this point. Personally, on bolts that are subject to rotation (hinge
>brackets, bellcranks, etc) I will only use them once.
Bolts subject to rotation must use castle nuts with cotter pins. In the
examples above, the bolt is stationary and the bearing rotates within it's race.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <dzflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | The Great Titanium Tie Downs |
I am curious if anyone else has ordered the much talked about titanium tie
downs and have not received them as I have not......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies |
> my grandfather has described tangling his Luscomb's gear in the soybeans
> (reeeaaallly low flying) and found himself upside down in the bean field
> hanging from his straps... couldn't get the seatbelt off. He wasn't tall enough
> Tim
>
Aren't all a/c & auto seat belts today designed to release under load? I (think
I)
remember something about "metal-to-metal" latches being required, because some
old
style belts used friction latches similar to the web belt buckles some of us wore
in
the Boy Scouts or military.
Anyone else have a clearer memory of this?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Need Advice - My 6A has 100 hours and the Horizontal Tail Rivets |
Are Moving, Has Anybody Else Seen This ?
As most builders do, I built the horizontal tail first, and the riveting
job is vastly inferior their than on the rest of the plane. Anyways, I
made a poor choice in that I chose to machine countersink the rivets on
the HS ( today, this is not recommended on that piece ). Please note
that this is occuring because my countersinking was a little to deep.
The reason I know the rivets are moving, is that the paint is cracked
around almost each rivet on the HS. There is no other place on the plane
that this is occuring.
I have seen over 20 airplanes at Oshkosh with the same thing. Not being
a structural engineer, I am not sure if the stresses on this part with
this problem are a safety issue. I wouldn't mind re-making an HS, but
it would be very hard to get it aligned as accurate as the one on their
now ( since the fuselage holes are already drilled, and backdrilling in
some place would be very difficult, probably causing enlarged holes etc.
) Therefore, if its not a safety issue, I don't care that it looks that
way.
When you apply pressure up and down to the HS, you can't see any slop,
and it seems very solid.
I would be especially interested in hearing from other people who have
had the same problem, and what they did.
Scott Johnson
rvgasj(at)mcs.com
horizontal tail
first, and the riveting job is vastly inferior their than on the rest of
the
countersink the rivets on the HS ( today, this is not recommended on
that piece
). Please note that this is occuring because my countersinking was a
little to
is
cracked around almost each rivet on the HS. There is no other place on
the plane
Oshkosh with
the
I
aligned
as accurate as the one on their now ( since the fuselage holes are
already
drilled, and backdrilling in some place would be very difficult,
probably
causing enlarged holes etc. ) Therefore, if its not a safety issue, I
don't care
can't see
other people
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Hi Listers,
With all the good story telling on the list lately, along with all the
good info, I thought I would describe this evening for you all.
I had a call from a friend who is a six builder who wanted some help
moving his airplane to the airstrip tonight. I went to his house, we
loaded the plane on the trailer and moved to the strip. He was quite
excited. We attached the wings and stepped back to admire his handy
work. This is the fourth RV on our little strip. I had not intended
to go flying tonight, but I had brought my 12 year old son to the strip
and he mowed the grass infront of the hanger and insisited that his
payment was to go flying. It was a beautiful night, flat calm, high
clouds and a fabulous sunset, so I didn't need much convincing. We went
for half an hour, met the helicopter from my work on its way back from a
job and flew a bit of formation with him. I let my son try his first
steep turns from the back, and just enjoyed the view. Had to land as it
was getting dark. Great evening.
Your going to love these planes
This should be the list Motto. Keep building.
Joe
RV4 C-FYTQ
Fredericton NB
the list
this
six builder
I went
to his house, we loaded the plane on the trailer and moved to the
admire his
I had
not intended to go flying tonight, but I had brought my 12 year old son
to the
strip and he mowed the grass infront of the hanger and insisited that
his
high clouds
for half
an hour, met the helicopter from my work on its way back from a job and
flew a
from the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John H Lee" <borgny(at)rconnect.com> |
I am priming all my parts with a HVLP sprayer with good results. Last year
I painted a car with the HVLP set-up with fair results. If you're used to
using a normal sprayer, the HVLP gets some getting used to. I ended up
putting too much paint on. It looked good, but chipped easily. Since then
i've throttled the gun down with better results. It's like anything else;
it takes practice.
John Lee
RV6A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Great Titanium Tie Downs |
>
>
>I am curious if anyone else has ordered the much talked about titanium tie
>downs and have not received them as I have not......
>
Hi RV-Listers (and my Ti-down customers),
I thought I'd respond to this post personally. I'm still shipping my
backorders in the order I recieved them. I was swamped with orders in May
from this RV-List, and sold more Ti-downs than I had in stock. It took a
while to get more Ti material, and I went on the "Mother of All Trips" at
the end of May.
My first batch (12 sets) of Ti-downs I made after the big trip were ruined
when I left them in the Hydroflouric Acid too long (the Acid was relatively
new and ruined the Ti-downs in 30 minutes. I had to keep them in the acid 2
hours to do the job previously). In the heating/bending process the Titanium
turns brown/black, and the acid shines them up nicely.
Anyway, John H., Terrel S., Will C., Ross M., Ron F.(from Canada), Carl
A., and you, Robert D., your Ti-downs will be shipped this this week. (I
shipped 7 sets last friday (6-19-98), and another 3 sets last tuesday
(6-23-98), so if you've ordered and paid for a set and you don't see your
name here, they're in transit.
Anyone who is on my backorder list please feel free to e-mail me off list
and I'll be happy to give you an updated shipping date.
Sincerely,
Randy at Airtime Mfg.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies |
>Aren't all a/c & auto seat belts today designed to release under load?
>I (think I) remember something about "metal-to-metal" latches being
required, >because some old style belts used friction latches similar to
the web belt >buckles some of us wore in the Boy Scouts or military.
>Anyone else have a clearer memory of this?
>Charlie
About 20 years ago we had to replace *ALL* aircraft seat belts with metal
to metal buckles. The old strap that used friction to lock the belt is
illegal in certified aircraft, and I bet no DAR would sign off a new
homebuilt with the old style buckles in it today.
While I have no personal experience with the Schroth belts (yet) here is a
link to one of the "Grumman Gang" members page with newly installed TSO'd
Schroth seat belts. After some other work on my Cheetah I expect to buy
the inertia reel Schroth belts when I redo the interior.
http://www.tiac.com/users/n1gzd/images/belts.jpg
Those who have bought them for their Grummans have been very positive about
them. Cost for Grumman Set (4 place) $616/ set with 2 inertia reels for
front and standard shoulder straps for rear.
Those interested in contacting Morris Technology directly can Email them.
morristec(at)aol.com
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies |
Thats why military pilots carry knives.
Even in car crashes the seatbelts latches occasionally weld closed under crash
forces and the webbing has to be cut to release the passengers.
Any listers have any experience with releasing Pacific Aero or Hooker latches
under tension?
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Web page update |
Remember -- it will be a lot easier for people to visit your site if
you include the location....
-Joe
http://www.showpage.org/joe
>
> G'day listers.
>
> I have added a few pics to my web page, including some showing my wing
> carriage, if you are going to be in need of one soon. It might give you
> some ideas.
>
> Boy, I can't wait to find out how that Franklin does in the -8
> prototype! All accounts I've heard about this engine have been
> favorable. For those of us in the "high and dry" dessert...an extra bit
> of horsepower is a blessing!
>
>
> Brian Denk
> -8 #379
> fuselage on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
Thanks to everyone for the great advice re paint booths (and kind words
about New Zealand) Unfortunately my email crashed and burned this week, and
I lost most of the messages I wanted to thank people for and respond to. (I
hope I can build a better plane than MS can build email clients...)
Chris
____
Chris Hinch
Dunedin, New Zealand
RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight: Drill Press |
I have a Harbor Freight floor model 15" swing drill press $249 and have been
quite happy with it. I also bought one of their $60 cross slide vises and
mounted it to the table which has made it very functional. I find myself
using the drill more for jig and other tooling type applications then actually
on airplane parts. So it is not a neccessity but rather a convience so far on
the prepunched tail kit.
If you are having problems with your chuck staying on try putting a piece of
wood between the chuck and the table and press the chuck in place by pulling
down pretty hard on the feed handle. Mine has a #2 moris tapper shaft and it
took a pretty hard pull to seat properly. When doing this be sure your chuck
jaws are fully retracted into the chuck.
SBS234(at)aol.com
RV8 Tail near completion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Great Titanium Tie Downs |
<< Anyone who is on my backorder list please feel free to e-mail me off list
and I'll be happy to give you an updated shipping date.
Sincerely,
Randy at Airtime Mfg. >>
Randy & List,
Looks like a good time to give ol Randy a little plug.
I went to the stearman flyin in St Francis KS weekend before last and finally
got to use my new tiedowns for the first time. The ground was dry and hard but
the nifty little lever that Randy supplies with the tie downs made the job of
turning them into the ground uneventfull. We had a beautifull morning on
saturday, but as the afternoon came on the wind came up from the south. We had
sustained winds of 40mph with gusts over 50 for over 3 hours. It was almost
IFR with dust. When the front finally passed over the wind did a 180 and blew
at the same velocity for another 3 hours. My airplane was facing west ,the
tiedowns and the airplane didnt budge. I hope my airplane isnt at the airport
that gets a harder test then that! BTW my tent was ripped from its stakes and
someone was nice enough to retrieve it along with all my earthly possessions
and return them to me.(how about some tent stakes Randy!) .
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tower ID (was spam) |
<<
I can't remember the particular FAR # right now but I believe the only
requirement is that on initial call up you identify your self as
experimental.
I usually use something like "Experimental RV 58VA . . ."
They will often return the call as the same. >>
You might find that the requirement to advise the tower that you are an
"experimental" is on the Airworthiness Certificate attached letter which
usually says that you must advise operating control towers of the expermental
nature of your aricraft. That is why it is done for towers but not required
for Approach, Center or Unicom. At least that is way the Airworthiness
Certificates are issued in the east. I understand that tower controllers are
supposed to offer you "special handeling", but that has only happened to me
once in flying an experimental out of a Class D airport since 1982.
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n44df started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Web page update |
>Remember -- it will be a lot easier for people to visit your site if
>you include the location....
>
>-Joe
>http://www.showpage.org/joe
>
>>
>> G'day listers.
>>
>> I have added a few pics to my web page, including some showing my
wing
>> carriage, if you are going to be in need of one soon. It might give
you
>> some ideas.
>>
>> Boy, I can't wait to find out how that Franklin does in the -8
>> prototype! All accounts I've heard about this engine have been
>> favorable. For those of us in the "high and dry" dessert...an extra
bit
>> of horsepower is a blessing!
>>
>>
>> Brian Denk
>> -8 #379
>> fuselage on the way
Good point, Joe! Geeze..you'd think I'd have this high tech stuff
figured out by now..
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
This URL is also on Van's Homepage, with Several other great pages by
Phil, Sam, Frank, Scott...and many other talented builders.
Back to grinding fiberglass. Do people actually make ENTIRE AIRPLANES
outta this stuff?? :)
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Homebuilt vs Certified |
>>So Gary.... you going to have a swing away motor mount?
>>Sorry, I just couldn't resist.
>>Scott McDaniels
It would sure make wiring the firewall a bit easier wouldn't you
think.
Hey when are you guys at vans going to offer one?
By the by is it true that a retract 6 is being worked on?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Great Titanium Tie Downs |
Another plug for Randy and his Ti-down's.
I get the greatest kick out of handing all three pieces to people hanging around
the airport and seeing the surprised look as they feel how light they are. Some
of
the wiseguys try to tell me that "aluminum" is just not strong enough. Most people
have never held titanium in their hands.
Terry
RV-6 C-GZRV
S. Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Ontario Wing Fly In |
The Ontario Wing is having the first fly in of the year and gladly
welcome all any interested listers. We are having a lunch hour BBQ at a
private strip (Jeff Stokes) at Dover Centre. Thats just east of Lake
St. Clair, half way between Wallaceburg and Chatham Ont.
June 27
42.19.559N
82.19.056W
About 2000' of very smooth grass running north/south. No significant
obstructions from either end. Hope to see you there.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rod Smith <rsmith(at)alaska.net> |
| Subject: | Fly before you decide |
Monday I had the good fortune to take my first RV flight in Denis Walsh's
RV-6A. What a beautiful airplane! Its performance and handling were
everything I expected from what I have read in magazines and on this list.
I have been interested in RVs for about 18 months and have in that time
come to some conclusions mainly due to my own biases. I am a taildragger
pilot, currently fly a Maule M5. I thought the only RV I would ever
consider would be a taildragger. I was very sure that I wanted an RV-8 but
that was only based on looks. I thought that if I did build an RV-6 I would
want the tip-up canopy due to better visibility. My flight with Denis poked
some serious holes in my preconceived notions. I'm now wondering if I might
enjoy a tri-gear version just as well. I will not be trying to fly an RV
into very short or rough strips and the visibility while on the ground is
so good! I had perceived the RV-8 as being sportier than the RV-6 but now
wonder if that is worth putting my wife in the back seat instead of along
side of me where she could help look for traffic and otherwise assist me as
she does in the Maule. The RV-6A sure seemed pretty sporty. On the flight
with Denis we had a very long taxi on a hot (at least to an Alaskan) day,
and it was so neat to have that slider canopy open and enjoy the breeze. So
now I'm not exactly sure which RV I want. I hope to make it to Vans
homecoming this fall and get a flight in a RV-8 and talk with several other
builders before making a decision. My point in this tale is try to keep an
open mind about some of these decisions until you have a chance to fly in
an RV and if you can get a flight in a couple different models that will be
better yet. My flight did make me realize more than ever that an RV is what
I want to build! I hope to get started this fall.
Thanks a bunch Denis!
Rod Smith (future RV builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
I just got a quote from AIG for 30,000 hull, 1 mil liability. 938.00 per
year. I thought that sounded pretty good.
-----Original Message-----
From: Corsair [SMTP:tinckler(at)axionet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 6:39 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: In Company
What is the worth of RV ? How does she feel ? How good is she at
what she
does ? ...Think. Just think all of you flyers from 20 to 75 and
beyond,
when last you held in your grasp a partner so thrilling, so nimble,
so
willing, so light. Was her name Miss Luscombe, Miss Pitts ? Did she
make
you feel so happy as this, so the scent of her (though it be oil and
gas)
be very distinct and make you call up your memory of such wonderful
times
together ?
Nothing trained or prepared me for such as this, but it matters not
to her
that my dancesteps are less than fluid, but if my hold is light and
I show
that I care, she is quite forgiving....Never before have I flown
close
company with another, and big brother probably would not approve,
but up
here sometimes, another RV appears and we form up together to stay
in step
and enjoy the journey. Have you ever seen the golden disc of a prop
slide
in close as the late sun hilights the cowl and canopy of your
partner ?
How fair of face she is ! Take a light hold and lift the wing and
together
you describe such a beautiful arc as two skaters on the ice. It is
always a
surprise at just how easy it is in RV to hold course, position,
altitude
and place, if you are graceful. It looks so pretty and it feels so
good...Our dancefloor is the sky, out over the water, along the
beach, over
the fields and home in the fading twilight. The grass is now dark,
we land
in turn, go home , shut down, and listen to the ticks of RV as she
says
goodnight again.
We say 'bye for now as it is getting late and it is time to
turn the
flying over to the night pilots as the hawks and owls and falcons
take wing
and show us how it is to really dance the night air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Jig Euphoria Syndrome |
Listers--
I built my fuselage jig yesterday. It turned out pretty well. All the
measurements are amazingly close for me, and it doesn't wobble or creak
or anything.
My problem is this: I woke up this morning feeling GREAT about all that
I accomplished yesterday. I built a jig, for goodness sake! I've got
wings in a cradle, empennage pieces/parts hanging from the walls--and I
feel euphoric over building a stupid jig!!
Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be building a wooden plane?
Should I just hang an engine on the jig and attach the wings and tail?
I'm so confused...
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | ID names and numbers |
In one of the trade magizines or papers I read over a year ago that
Glasair pilots were encouraged to use "Glasair #####" when contacting ATC.
I would think with as many RVs that are flying and are going to be
flying very soon that "RV 641DH" (my number) or what ever yours is would
identify our airplanes better...especially at uncontrolled fields. I have
been flying production types and heard several airplanes saying
"Experimental #### on down wind", and did not have a clue who I was following.
I received a call from the FAA informing that my N number was mine
and they were returning my $10. I have had it more than one year. They told
me that to check the assignment letter, if the box is checked assigned it is
yours period, if it is checked reserved you have to renew it each year. She
did not know why some numbers were assigned and some were reserved.
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Corsair,
May I suggest that your next project be a book of RV prose for those of
us who admire your writing!
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, fuselage
What is the worth of RV ? How does she feel ? How good
is she at what she
does ? ...Think. Just think all of you flyers from 20 to
75 and beyond,
when last you held in your grasp a partner so
thrilling, so nimble, so
willing, so light. Was her name Miss Luscombe, Miss
Pitts ? Did she make
you feel so happy as this, so the scent of her (though
it be oil and gas)
be very distinct and make you call up your memory of
such wonderful times
together ?
Nothing trained or prepared me for such as this, but it
matters not to her
that my dancesteps are less than fluid, but if my hold
is light and I show
that I care, she is quite forgiving....Never before have
I flown close
company with another, and big brother probably would not
approve, but up
here sometimes, another RV appears and we form up
together to stay in step
and enjoy the journey. Have you ever seen the golden
disc of a prop slide
in close as the late sun hilights the cowl and canopy of
your partner ?
How fair of face she is ! Take a light hold and lift the
wing and together
you describe such a beautiful arc as two skaters on the
ice. It is always a
surprise at just how easy it is in RV to hold course,
position, altitude
and place, if you are graceful. It looks so pretty and
it feels so
good...Our dancefloor is the sky, out over the water,
along the beach, over
the fields and home in the fading twilight. The grass is
now dark, we land
in turn, go home , shut down, and listen to the ticks of
RV as she says
goodnight again.
We say 'bye for now as it is getting late and it
is time to turn the
flying over to the night pilots as the hawks and owls
and falcons take wing
and show us how it is to really dance the night air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
>
> I just got a quote from AIG for 30,000 hull, 1 mil liability. 938.00
per
> year. I thought that sounded pretty good..
Be VERY careful about underinsuring the hull....its false economy.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | was Jig Euphoria Syndrome |
>>Should I just hang an engine on the jig and attach the wings
and tail?
>>I'm so confused...
I'm working on a product that you may be interested in. I haven't got
the patent yet but hope for it to come soon.
I call it "The structural cleco".
You know how when you have your parts put together with clecos they look
so great and then after you rivet them they (sometimes??) turn out
dinged up not to mention all the time you spend riveting and measuring
shop head size and all. Then you keep looking at those dings and
rubbing them and all.
Well just think if you had a structural cleco!!!
You could retain that "Just assembled" and think about what a snap the
100 hour would be. Also if you use them on the wings you can get rid of
that expensive dimple tape and vortex generators.
I don't think Mooney has thought of this yet so try to keep it under
your hat
RV6A finishing!!
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Speaking of seat belts...
Has anyone ever used an inertia wheel hooked to the shoulder starps in
an RV?
Thanks,
Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jig Euphoria Syndrome |
Don McNamara wrote:
>
> Listers--
>
> I built my fuselage jig yesterday. It turned out pretty well. All
> the
> measurements are amazingly close for me, and it doesn't wobble or
> creak
> or anything.
>
> My problem is this: I woke up this morning feeling GREAT about all
> that
> I accomplished yesterday. I built a jig, for goodness sake! I've got
>
> wings in a cradle, empennage pieces/parts hanging from the walls--and
> I
> feel euphoric over building a stupid jig!!
>
> Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be building a wooden
> plane?
> Should I just hang an engine on the jig and attach the wings and tail?
>
> I'm so confused...
>
> --Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
Sounds like a "Breezy" to me!
I know what you mean Don. I've got lots of pictures of my little
creation. I think I build
other projects with more confidence and accuracy since working on this
airplane.
It kind of makes you feel like your shoulder to shoulder with Norm on
the "New Yankee Workshop"
Ed Cole RV6A Fuslage
( Of course, I always feel like Norm from "Cheers" ;^) )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jig Euphoria Syndrome |
Don McNamara wrote:
> Don,
Just goes to show you - that doing almost anything further progress toward
the day you can launch your RV gives that "High". Guess its sort of like
addiction, unh?
Ed N494BW
>
>
> Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be building a wooden plane?
> Should I just hang an engine on the jig and attach the wings and tail?
> I'm so confused...
>
> --Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fly before you decide |
<3.0.1.32.19980625060206.0077b4c4(at)alaska.net>
| From: | rv-list(at)pteron.demon.co.uk |
Rod's email pricked my concience - I am unworthy - I had a
wonderful flight courtesy of a very generous lister called Ken
Hitchmough ages ago and I didn't tell y'all...
Some of you with long memories may remember my plea to the list
last September time, for a peek at an RV6 whilst visiting the
wonderful country tacked on the top of the US. Ken emailed me
immediately, offering not only a peek but a ride... but the
offer came with a cost... Ken was missing his favourite tipple,
apparently not available over there, Kestrel Super Lager. One
can was required. I dispatched my chief provisioning officer,
with instructions, find Kestrel Super Lager or we can't go to
Canada! (She's Canadian so this was quite a threat). Wonder that
she is, said offering was found and purchased and we headed for
sunny Toronto.
My parents-in-law live just off the end of the runway at Oshawa
airport, and we arranged to meet there Sunday. I managed to find
the place, it would prbably have been easier to climb the fence
but being in N. America I duly drove the 10 miles required to
get to the airport car park and eagerly searched the airfield
for the RV. There it was, I made a beeline for it, got halfway
there when a shout rang out, 'Andy!'. I'd been rumbled!
Offering in hand, I turned towards the bar, and discovered Ken
and his wife waiting. 'I didn't mean it, but thanks!' was the
reply when I handed over the four pack; we laughed, and set off
for the RV.
This was one cute aeroplane, Ken had worked on the Nigerian RV's
and it showed. We walked round, Ken checking it over and
pointing out the interesting modifications he'd made, me eagerly
anticipating the flight. That cockpit is certainly snug, you
wouldn't want anyone, ahem, hygenically challenged in there with
you. Fortunately Ken and I are both fresh as daisies so no
problems there.
We lined up and suddenly, zoooooooooooom, we're off. OK, it's
quicker than a 152. A lot quicker. We're airborne in a shake of
a lambs tail and climbing; CN tower express lifts - nothing on
this baby. By the time we pass over ma n pa's bungalow it's a
tiny matchbox sized building. Ken suggests we head off up to the
lakes for a tootle about, I just agree, too busy enjoying the
ride. After an age, well maybe a couple of minutes, Ken offers
me the stick. It's been a while since I last flew, so I
cogitated for perhaps 2 or 3 hundredths of a second and finally
accept. How do you explain the effect of flying an RV6 on
someone who's mainly flown 152's? Well as my better half would
put it, it's like learning on a donkey then riding a prize
cutting horse. Exhilerating, the speed and maneuverability, but
I'm preaching to the converted, suffice it to say, it was an RV.
We flew over the beautiful countryside just north of Osahawa,
every now and the Ken would say, 'I have control' and bank her
over for a looksy at something that caught his eye on the
ground. The sense of confidence that the 6 inspires is
wonderful, we seemed to spend a lot of time at severe angles of
bank. This aeroplane just makes you want to dance around the
skies. I held off on the competition aerobatics, I feel that
60hours is perhaps a tad too inexperienced for that, so it was
nice to just enjoy it vicariously whilst Ken flew steep turns
around the sky. This is flying. I want one.
Far too soon, it was time to head back to the airport, I
reluctantly handed control back to her owner as we approached,
and he performed a perfect landing. I jumped out, Ken's wife
jumped in, along with the beer, and I watched them go, following
them until they were a speck in the sky.
I walked back to the car with the RV grin on my face, in fact it
stayed for days!
I want to thank Ken publically for his generosity, I hope he can
forgive me for not doing it earlier!
I'd orginally asked for a look at a 6 because I was having
difficulty deciding whether to build a 4 or a 6 - the 'RV
choice'. In the end it didn't really help, how *do* you choose
between them? Flying a 4 from San Jose to San Fransisco above
the waves was mind blowing too.
So I think it'll have to be an 8.
(Got the compressor, got the bench grinder, need the kit)
--
Andy
The IQ of the group is the lowest IQ of a member of the group
divided by the number of people in the group.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Bocox" <rbocox(at)ryko.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Call Letters |
I have heard also that using Glassair 345TF is acceptable. I have heard it both
ways. Some people use "Experimental", and some use the aircraft type. What
I heard was that the control towers prefer using the aircraft type for the most
common "Experimentals". This lets them know what they are dealing with. This
gives them an idea mostly about performance figures for the aircraft type
in controlled airspace. This was published in some publication about a year ago,
but I cannot remember which one. I remember that the article listed the following
as recognizable names by the tower personnel:
RV
Lancair
Glassair
KitFox
LongEZE
Others they would prefer the designation "Experimental", and the article stated
that they would then request pertinent information from the pilot, since the
aircraft performance is not readily known. The main idea of this was to help
minimize the controller's workload. When there are more RVs flying than there
are Cessnas or Pipers, then the naming convention will be moot.
Perhaps what the FAA requires and what is commonly preferred by tower personnel
is not the same.
Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ]
RV-6A N872RF in Des Moines
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ID names and numbers |
<< In one of the trade magizines or papers I read over a year ago that
Glasair pilots were encouraged to use "Glasair #####" when contacting ATC. >>
At my home field, I ID to tower as "Van's One Golf Victor" because it trips
gently off the tongue (I have always worked hard at being a cunning linguist).
If ATC asks for more detail (at an unfamiliar airport), I say "Experimental
RV-6A". My FAA Supervisor hangar mate says that "RV-6A" alone is an FAA
approved identifier.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 90hrs TTAE)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies |
> Does anybody on the list have any experience with the Schroth Harnesses by
> Morris Technologies? I found out about them from a link from Van's page, as
> I recall.
At one of the Home Wing meetings, a member brought a Schroth harness for
us to look at. It was really nice, and I'm still struggling with
whether I want to get a perfectly good five point harness with MIL-SPEC
hardware from Pacific Aero Harnesses for $125/set or go all out and get the
fancy-schmancy Schroth ones with their super nice rotary style buckle,
for (eek!) $350/set.
The Schroth aviation harnesses are TSOd, etc.and I'm sure the specs and
tests are all there to validate that it releases under tension. At the
meeting, we did an ad-hoc test, with someone pulling hard on each end of
a couple of straps, and verified that one person using his little finger
could release the buckle with the quick release. Very nice!
I don't know for sure, but I strongly suspect that any modern approved
(MIL-SPEC, PMA or otherwise) belt hardware would have to have been
proven to be releasable under tension.
BTW the Pacific Aero Harness website is <http://home.att.net/~robh/>.
Morris Technologies (dealer for Schroth aviation harnesses in RV
configurations) email is Morristec(at)icdc.com. He can email you bitmap
versions of the Schroth data sheets.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NY/NJ RV6 demo ride |
Looking for a demo ride in an RV6 or 6A. I live in NY metro area. Will
travel anywhere within 100 miles of NYC. Be happy pay all expenses. Please
E-mail me at MKswing(at)aol.com.
Thanks in advance - Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies |
Randall,
Pacific Aero harnesses are $125 per SEAT. That brings them to the same price.
See "http://home.att.net/~robh/info6.htm" for info.
Laird RV-6 drilling the rear spar to the fuse
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Thu, Jun 25, 1998 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies
> Does anybody on the list have any experience with the Schroth Harnesses by
> Morris Technologies? I found out about them from a link from Van's page, as
> I recall.
At one of the Home Wing meetings, a member brought a Schroth harness for
us to look at. It was really nice, and I'm still struggling with
whether I want to get a perfectly good five point harness with MIL-SPEC
hardware from Pacific Aero Harnesses for $125/set or go all out and get the
fancy-schmancy Schroth ones with their super nice rotary style buckle,
for (eek!) $350/set.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Great Titanium Tie Downs |
Randy,
How much am I going to spend on these tie-downs?
Brian Eckstein
----------
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >I am curious if anyone else has ordered the much talked about titanium tie
> >downs and have not received them as I have not......
> >
> Hi RV-Listers (and my Ti-down customers),
> I thought I'd respond to this post personally. I'm still shipping my
> backorders in the order I recieved them. I was swamped with orders in May
> from this RV-List, and sold more Ti-downs than I had in stock. It took a
> while to get more Ti material, and I went on the "Mother of All Trips" at
> the end of May.
> My first batch (12 sets) of Ti-downs I made after the big trip were ruined
> when I left them in the Hydroflouric Acid too long (the Acid was relatively
> new and ruined the Ti-downs in 30 minutes. I had to keep them in the acid 2
> hours to do the job previously). In the heating/bending process the Titanium
> turns brown/black, and the acid shines them up nicely.
> Anyway, John H., Terrel S., Will C., Ross M., Ron F.(from Canada), Carl
> A., and you, Robert D., your Ti-downs will be shipped this this week. (I
> shipped 7 sets last friday (6-19-98), and another 3 sets last tuesday
> (6-23-98), so if you've ordered and paid for a set and you don't see your
> name here, they're in transit.
> Anyone who is on my backorder list please feel free to e-mail me off list
> and I'll be happy to give you an updated shipping date.
> Sincerely,
> Randy at Airtime Mfg.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jig Euphoria Syndrome |
Don McNamara wrote: --and I feel euphoric over building a stupid jig!!
> Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be building a wooden plane?
> Should I just hang an engine on the jig and attach the wings and tail?
> I'm so confused...
>
Don - I am sure that we all can understand how you feel. Building any project
brings many HIGHS and I am sure that you have already had a couple lows. Enjoy
the
great feeling and anticipate that it can only get better . I had my empanage
about half built before I had a chance to even SIT in a RV-6. I was a Van,s
picking up my wings & fuselage kits and asked Van if I could at least sit in the
RV-6 to see how it fit. He quickly made arrangements for a demo and that 30 minute
flight has buoyed me up for the past five years while I have slowly built my dream
(Sometimes it has seemed like a nightmare!). I have not had the chance to get
another ride yet and so rely on that one and only demo as my inspiration as I buck
a few more rivets. I know that it is really worth the effort. Keep smiling and
enjoying those HIGHS - even over a 'stupid' jig.
DGM - RV-6 - engine compartment
Sunny Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Fly before you decide |
I've taken demo flights in an RV-4, RV-6, and most recently in Mark
Frederick's Rocket (thanks Mark, the grin is still there 3 weeks later!).
Most folks seem to recommend the -6 for those whose wives will be regular
passengers. I would disagree with that as I actually preferred the extra
shoulder room I felt I had in the back seat of the -4/Rocket. If you are in
the market and you anticipate your "significant other" will fly regularly
with you , I would recommend that you also get her to take a demo ride in
both configurations so she can add her educated $.02. And if you are still
undecided, take a ride in a Rocket, if that doesnt help you decide, nothing
will! I already know what my next project is gonna be!
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
My point in this tale is try to keep an
>open mind about some of these decisions until you have a chance to fly in
>an RV and if you can get a flight in a couple different models that will be
>better yet.
>Rod Smith (future RV builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies |
> Pacific Aero harnesses are $125 per SEAT. That brings them to the same price.
> See "http://home.att.net/~robh/info6.htm" for info.
Both prices I gave were per seat (set, seat, whatever :-). The
Schroth harnesses are $350 per seat, or $625 for two. Quite a bit
more I'd say!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
Michael: Does that hull coverage include "in flight" damage? Or is it only for
fire, hanger falling down, hit by a car or plane while parked, Etc.
Walt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Dear Listers,
I wonder if someone could help me with some advice on battery leads. I have
my master contacter inside the cabin and am using Bob Nuckoll's firewall
ground bus so both my battery leads need to stay on the pilot side of the
firewall. I have been puzzling over the route to take them out of the
battery box. If you drill a hole in the forward end of the box you then
have to make 2 AWG wire do a nasty sharp turn between the fixed portion of
the battery box and the firewall. If you drill a hole in the removable
portion of the battery box then the above mentioned 2 AWG wires will
prevent removal of this. Have people notched the forward edge of the
removable portion of the battery box? Do most people just blast straight
forward through the firewall?
As alway grateful for the help of those who have gone before.
Leo Davies
6A trying to make electrons flow.
"History if bunk" Henry Ford
or
"Those who do not learn from the mistakes of the past are destined to
repeat them" (wish I could remember who said this)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ID names and numbers |
My Number is N240. I use "RV two forty" as my call sign. When I am at
reporting in with center approach or tower I call in as "RV two forty" When
they respond I say "RV two forty is an experimental RV-4 with you level
XXXX"
This works very well except for two problems. First if you have a 3
character N # they are always asking for your full call sign. And, some
controllers still don't get it. They think that "RV" is "ARMY" and they are
confused because we all know, the Army doesn't fly anything as fast as an RV
;-)
Fly fast, Land slow,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fly before you decide |
I started on an RV-4. I got thru the tail and started on wings when my wife
got a ride in the -4. She said "I don't like the back seat." After some
thought I switched to the RV-6. However she likes the back seat in the
RV-8....so there ya go! I wanted a tandem because I sat in side by sides
for thousands of hours. I like the idea of looking out both sides at will.
But a -6 it is for now...
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Waxing Poetic |
types="text/plain,text/html";
--=====================_39757058==_.ALT
>
>
>
>Hi Listers,
>
>With all the good story telling on the list lately, along with all the
>good info, I thought I would describe this evening for you all.
Joe,
I thought you would like to know that I use a photo of your -4 as my desktop
wallpaper on my computer. FYTQ is just about the most pleasing looking RV-4
I have ever seen, and I I've seen over 400 RVs. I just purchased a really
nice
-4 from a builder in New Jersey. It has a great forest green/yellow paint job,
but.....
it is nowhere as sharp as yours. Are you going to be at Oshkosh? If so, I'll
stop by to say hello.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
--=====================_39757058==_.ALT
desktop wallpaper on my computer. FYTQ is just about the most pleasing
purchased a really nice -4 from a builder in New Jersey. It has a great
Louis
--=====================_39757058==_.ALT--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Aero Harnesses (was Re: Hooker harness) |
Hi all,
I see complete harness sets meeting racing associations standards - don't know
what they are etc in Summit Auto catalog for about $60 per set. Look just like
Van's. Anyone looked at them? I believe that anything sold today meets FAA
standards which call for what ? 1500 pounds ?? in a pull test? I believe my QB
kit includes all the mounting stuff.
hal
(Please don't anyone advise me that the use of auotmotive safety belts will
bring instant death to me and my loved ones.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jig Euphoria Syndrome |
>
>Listers--
>
>I built my fuselage jig yesterday. It turned out pretty well. All the
>measurements are amazingly close for me, and it doesn't wobble or creak
>or anything.
>
>My problem is this: I woke up this morning feeling GREAT about all
that
>I accomplished yesterday. I built a jig, for goodness sake! I've got
>wings in a cradle, empennage pieces/parts hanging from the walls--and I
>feel euphoric over building a stupid jig!!
>
>Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be building a wooden plane?
>Should I just hang an engine on the jig and attach the wings and tail?
>I'm so confused...
>
>--Don McNamara
> N8RV
Don,
Well, for starters...you can come on down to Albuquerque, and build MINE
NEXT!!! There now..won't that make you feel even better?!!
For what it's worth...I had a semi-state of euphoria my self today. I
bolted the left tank on the wing...and both wings are DONE and in the
wing carriage. Then, I started arranging the shop for the fuselage kit,
hung the tail parts on the wall, and generally giggled all the while.
Ok, so I'm a wee bit unstable....but you knew that by now. :)
Enjoy the rush..
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Battery leads |
<< Have people notched the forward edge of the
removable portion of the battery box? Do most people just blast straight
forward through the firewall? >>
Leo-
I made a 1"x2" notch in the LE of the battery box (cover) and put some
alligator track (plastic edge grommet strip) on the cutout to keep from
chafing the cables. You're correct that it is a relatively sharp bend, but if
you use your tubing bender on the wire, it can form them quite well.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
---Rob Acker wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> > I just got a quote from AIG for 30,000 hull, 1 mil liability.
938.00
> per
> > year. I thought that sounded pretty good..
>
> Be VERY careful about underinsuring the hull....its false economy.
>
> Rob (RV-6Q).
I just got my AVEMCO renewal. It is $788 for $50K Hull excluding
in-flight and $1 M Libility. The same coverage for in-flight was in
the range of $1.6K.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
In flight damage, also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
I suppose a botched landing would be considered "in Flight"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Aero Harnesses (was Re: Hooker harness) |
I have heard of several using seat belts from Summit Racing, in fact I would
like to get the toll-free phone #, or e-mail address to order a catalog and
look closer at what they have.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8#544 Fuse landing gear box
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jig Euphoria Syndrome |
>
> My problem is this: I woke up this morning feeling GREAT about all that
> I accomplished yesterday. I built a jig, for goodness sake! I've got
> wings in a cradle, empennage pieces/parts hanging from the walls--and I
> feel euphoric over building a stupid jig!!
> --Don McNamara
> N8RV
Don,
That's great! Now you just have 1000 hrs. and 30 thousand dollars to go.
Now tell me about this euphoric feeling again.
By the way, I flew today. Oil temp stayed at 190, Oil Press stayed at 65, CHT
stayed at 300. Fuel press was 5 lbs at 4000 ft. That's two more lbs. than it
was previously. I saw @ 10 mph more at 75%. I was estatic, sort of a euphoric
feeling you could say.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
Some of you wanted to know what my Warnke 70X74 would do on my new
160 horse engine. I've just flown it today for the first time. Everything went
great and first indications is @ 8-10 mph speed increase at 75% power. The
engine is brand new so this is just a preliminary finding. I flew one hour at 75%.
The engine idle increased 150 RPM in one hour of time. Amazing. By the way,
if anyone wants to know how to time your mags wrong, I can tell you. I can
also tell you the right way to do it. Would you believe an A&P told me how to
do wrong. Another A&P told me how to do it right. Go figure. 188 mph at 75%
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery leads |
I did the same thing on my RV6A C-GCTZ.
Bob bbristol(at)intranet.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Battery leads
>
>
><< Have people notched the forward edge of the
> removable portion of the battery box? Do most people just blast straight
> forward through the firewall? >>
>
>Leo-
>
>I made a 1"x2" notch in the LE of the battery box (cover) and put some
>alligator track (plastic edge grommet strip) on the cutout to keep from
>chafing the cables. You're correct that it is a relatively sharp bend, but
if
>you use your tubing bender on the wire, it can form them quite well.
>
>-GV
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: interesting passengers |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I take strong exception to your statement about insurance rates. I
>just
>called my insurance broker who concurs with me that insurance rates
>are MUCH
>higher for homebuilts. In my case (2400 hours, instrument rated) my
>RV6A
>will cost me 1.5 to two times as much to insure as my C172 for the
>same
>levels of coverage. Everyone I know (couple of dozen) who have
>insured a
>homebuilt and a certified plane attest to the large discrepancy.
>Dennis Persyk 6A canopy
>Barrington, IL
>
>
>
>
My experience has been just the opposite.
I know of no one that with comparable flight experience can't get the
same liability coverage in a home built as another pilot (with similar
experience) can get for his Grumman Tiger, C-172,etc.
There may be a slight difference in hull coverage between certified and
RV's but from what I have seen if you insured a C-172 for $50,000 to
$60,000 like most of the higher value RV's that people buy hull insurance
for I think you would find the cost difference to be small.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
Regarding aircraft insurance rates and coverage...
>I suppose a botched landing would be considered "in Flight"?
The usual terms are "in motion" and "not in motion" coverage. My insurance
agent answered my quizical look with the pronouncement that if the tie down
ropes are off the plane, it is "in motion".
Be fore warned.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Schroth Harnesses by Morris Technologies |
>Both prices I gave were per seat
(set, seat, whatever :-). The
>Schroth harnesses are $350 per seat, or $625 for two. Quite a bit
>more I'd say!
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
>Portland, OR
>randall(at)edt.com
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
Listers,
I couldn't help but respond to this string as I represent Morris
Technologies with the Schroth belts. A couple of facts about release under
tension. First, TSO C22, for seatbelts which originally required the metal
to metal connection permits an operating force of the latch mechanism of 30
lbs. The newer TSO maintains this force limit. So you can release the
belts under tension if you can exert fairly high forces. Many of the metal
to metal buckles, especially the military hardware exihibit this high
release load. On the other hand the Schroth buckle releases with less than
14 oz. of force under a full ocupant load. Belts made to TSO C-122 as the
Schroth restraints are, are rated to 3000 lbs. The TSO C-22 belts ,
including the military hardware are rated to 1500 lbs. NASA and military
studies have proven survivability to geater crash accelleration forces, thus
the upgraded TSO rating. Also note that the military doesn't use the
military style hardware in new design, due to its limitations. There are
additional points about restraint systems that are only important when you
crash. If you want to know more Email me off line.
On the issue of cost. Yes they are a bit more expensive than the military
hardware based belts. If I can get some quantities of orders for the belts
( 5 sets or more), I can get reduced pricing from the factory. In these
quantities, as an introductory price, I could sell them for $250 per set for
4 point, or $285 for 5 point. I have the RV 6 sized but for the RV 4 or RV
8 I need to get dimesnions.
Aynone interested can Email me off line.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)icdc.com
Morris technologies, Inc.
RV6 ready to fly (finally)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oil cooler installation |
Listers,
Tonight while I was trying to position the oil cooler on the firewall,
there seemed to be some potential interferences with the plumbing
sticking out of the back of the fuel pump. My question is, is it easier
to install the oil cooler on the left rear baffle, or is the firewall
installation preferable? There's not a whole heck of a lot of room to
run all of the hoses in the area. Has anyone installed the oil cooler
on the left side? Seems like it would be better there but the routing
of the oil lines behind the vacuum pump wouldn't be pretty. Decisions,
decisions.
As the saying goes, "the last 10% takes 90% of the time."
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Senior Technical Analyst, MCSE
ImageMax, Inc.
Carmel, IN
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inertia Reels |
>
>Speaking of seat belts...
>Has anyone ever used an inertia wheel hooked to the shoulder starps in
>an RV?
>
>Thanks,
>Ed Cole RV6A Fuselage
I can get restraints with inertia reels that will work for the RV-4. The
trouble with the RV 6 is that you need to make a mounting provision on the
rear bulkhead. Also inertia reels aren't good for Aerobatics, unless you
get a manual lock on the reel to lock the reel up during maneuvers.
Dan
Morristec(at)icdc.com
Morris Technologies, Inc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantity |
I am not using a H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantity |
I am painting with a regular spray gun. H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantity |
I am painting with a regular spray gun. Have used 2 gallons to date, about
75% done. Will use a total of 3 plus a little gallons of one color, 1 qt of
trim, and about
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt vs Certified |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
> Hey when are you guys at vans going to offer one?
>
> By the by is it true that a retract 6 is being worked on?
>
> Gary
>
Yeah, we are, but it's a retractable step. We all know that the gear on
an RV is already as low of drag as if it were folded in the belly, right?
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Hey! Turn Off That HTML! PLEASE READ! |
Hi Listeres,
There appears to be a number of people using browser-based email programs
like Netscape on the Lists. By default, HTML-orentiated email programs will
generally put two copies of the message in the outgoing mail - one in
plain text, and the other in HTML formatted text. This is kind of a pain
when posting to a large list like the RV-List or the Zenith-List since all
of the crap gets resent to everyone as well as appended to the Archive.
At anyrate, there is generally an option to disable the sending of the
HTML formatted text and possibly even the MIME encoding. Please have a
look in the Configuration or Preferences of your mail program and make
sure that these are disabled.
Thanks!!
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
RV and Zenith List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com> |
Listers-
Does anyone know if Courtalds 890 B1/2, C30 or Courtalds 870 is
an acceptable substitute for the Thiokol 236 sealer that Vans sells. I
believe that 890 is usable for wet wings, but can not get a definite
answer.
Thanks,
Rich Zeidman
RV6a sn 25224
building left tank
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Does anyone know if Courtalds 890 B1/2, C30 or Courtalds 870 is
an acceptable substitute for the Thiokol 236 sealer that Vans sells. I
believe that 890 is usable for wet wings, but can not get a definite
answer.
Thanks,
Rich Zeidman
RV6a sn 25224
building left tank >>
We buy the 890 B-4 direct from Courtalds ( in the tubes). We get the 4 hr
stuff so that it doesn't kick off while we are having all that fun assembling
those tanks.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Releasing Under Tension |
Listers,
I thought this might be of interest to those following the harness thread:
------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
From: Robert Huntsinger <robh(at)worldnet.att.net>
Send reply to: robh(at)worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Releasing Under Tension
Hello Tim,
Thanks for your interest in Pacific Aero Harness. The buckle and link
used on my harness is designed to release very easy even under heavy body
weight loading. This MS buckle has a lever type arm and can be moved with
minimal hand pressure. But does not open without a deliberate action.
My source for these MS type fittings also sells to the race car belt
manufactures and they use this same hardware for their lap belts. Cars,
also come to rest upside down. :-)
Safety in the situation you mentioned is always a consideration.
Have fun with your RV6 project
Rob Huntsinger
Pacific Aero Harness
Tim Lewis wrote:
> Rob,
>
> How well do your buckles release under tension. I'm thinking of the
> situation where the plane comes to rest on its back, and the occupants
> are hanging from the seat belts. This happened to my Grandfather many
> many years ago, and he couldn't get himself out of the seatbelts...
> wouldn't release.
>
> Schroth advocates their buckles as releasing very easily under tension.
> How do yours compare?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6AQ N47TD (reserved)
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna splitters |
I'm planning to have a comm and and ELT in my someday-to-be-completed RV
and in my trusty '46 Aeronca Chief (currently being recovered and
refurbished in the pole-barn).
I've seen $50 radio antenna splitters in the various catalogs, but I think
these are for multiple nav/comms, right? What I was planning on doing was
simply getting an RG-58 "T" connector and hooking my ELT and my comm radio
to the same antenna. Since neither device will be transmitting at the same
time (and one hopefully never), I wouldn't thinnk there would be any
problem with this arrangement.
Am I misguided? Will transmitting on the comm damage the ELT?
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
RV8 Wings in Transit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Web site update, Inexpensive AutoCAD or similar |
Listers,
I've added a few pictures to my web site, and incorporated Gary
VanRemortel's Pilot Operating Handbook. Gary has done a great job building
a very professional POH.
My web site is: http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
Go to the Plans/Docs page to download a copy of Gary's POH. Gary's throttle
and prop governor bracket plans will be available on the site soon. (I've done
quite a bit of redesign on my web site. Please let me know if you experience
any glitches while viewing it.)
Gary produced some slick performance graphs in his POH using autocad,
and "Aeroelectric" Bob has produced very nice wiring diagrams using
autocad. I'd like to do something similar, but the prices I've seen for AutoCAD
Lite are in the $500 range, which is more than I want to pay for the limited use
I'll make of it. What options have other listers used?
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site update, Inexpensive AutoCAD or similar |
Tim,
I have a now out-of-production CAD package (Autocad purchased the company and
then discontinued the product because it under cut their Autolite packabe). Its
name was Generic Cadd. I have seen it in some of the "surpluse software" catalogs
for something like $70 bucks. I have used it extensively in designing my
alternative engine conversion, instrument panel layout and wiring diagrams. If
you
can find one it could be a low cost solution. It converts to some of the standard
DXF. DWG drawing package formats as well as others.
Ed
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> but the prices I've seen for AutoCAD
> Lite are in the $500 range, which is more than I want to pay for the limited
use
> I'll make of it. What options have other listers used?
>
> Tim
> _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
> Tim Lewis
> N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
> Springfield VA
> http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler installation |
Bob,
I have just completed mine.
I put it on the left side. I had to use a nutplate on the inner bottom
mounting bolt (too close to the fins) and cut away a section of the oil
coller mounting flange (rear inboard) to clear the engine mount (RV-6A).
Worked very well.
I also used two sections of .063 angle to help shore up the mounting. The
first goes from the engine crank case a la George O. but the other end is
connected to the 'dog-leg' in the baffel. I had to use an extra pice of 063
Al for the change in angle.
The second piece of angle is riveted halfway along this first piece with the
other end folded in, hole drilled and is bolted to the rear of the baffle
with the top inboard oil cooler bolt (these are AN4-41 for the Vans
cooler). This seems to be a very strong mount. :-)
The fittings took some time for a dumb builder like me.
Oil Cooler Engine
Top AN821-8 (90deg) AN823-8(45deg) (a 90deg won't fit here)
Lower AN823-8 AN823-8 (a straight won't fit here if you have a
spin on oil filter)
This allows you to use the cheap straight fittings and very short tube
length with only moderate bends. ie I used a few feet of Vans 701 tube with
the 816 fittings. The non-straight fittings are 3x the price)
(I have a lot of other fittings left over from my trial, but mainly error,
system of oil line design)
Hope this helps.
Royce Craven
RV-6A Oil cooler finished
Melbourne Oz
>...run all of the hoses in the area. Has anyone installed the oil cooler
>on the left side? Seems like it would be better there but the routing
>of the oil lines behind the vacuum pump wouldn't be pretty. Decisions,
>decisions.
>
>
>Bob Japundza
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nospam(at)worldnet.att.net (timothyg) |
| Subject: | Speed Brakes on an RV |
Several posters have mentioned dificulty in getting their RV's to slow
down quickly when entering landing pattern, has anyone ever considered
the addition of some sort of speedbrakes? I am also thinking it would
help with engine temp control b/c you could leave power on and still
lose altitude/speed.
Any thoughts?
timf
st paul, mn
(still trying to convince the wife)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Baines <BBaines(at)radiant.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
Unless something new has been offered recently that I am not aware of,
most antenna splitters are intended for receivers only i.e. 2 vor
receivers, 2 GS receivers etc. I believe that they are - for the most part -
impedance matchers designed to transfer as maximum signal from one antenna
to two receivers.
The only one I know of for transmitters in light aircraft has a coaxial
relay in it and is larger and more costly than $50.00.
Most GA COM transmitters are capable of somewhere between 5 to 20 watts. The
ELT is somewhere around .1 watts. Should several watts hit the typical
antenna splitter, it would likely be damaged. Similarly, should several
watts from a COM transmitter hit the output sections of an ELT, it too would
be damaged.
Some (many) ELT manufacturers specify that the TSO is invalid if another
antenna or antenna cable is used than those supplied with the units.
I believe that this is truely a performance issue.
Also, its a good idea to keep the COM antenna and ELT antenna as far from
each other as practically possible. Radiated COM signals are known to
be picked up by the ELT antenna, and re-radiated during COM transmit. This
is a known interference problem with some GPS receivers, and some (not all)
ELTs.
Bill Baines
RV 4 Wings in storage (nuts!)
>
>
>I'm planning to have a comm and and ELT in my someday-to-be-completed RV
>and in my trusty '46 Aeronca Chief (currently being recovered and
>refurbished in the pole-barn).
>
>I've seen $50 radio antenna splitters in the various catalogs, but I think
>these are for multiple nav/comms, right? What I was planning on doing was
>simply getting an RG-58 "T" connector and hooking my ELT and my comm radio
>to the same antenna. Since neither device will be transmitting at the same
>time (and one hopefully never), I wouldn't thinnk there would be any
>problem with this arrangement.
>
>Am I misguided? Will transmitting on the comm damage the ELT?
>
>Nick Knobil
>Bowdoinham, Maine
>RV8 Wings in Transit
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Bill Baines BBaines(at)radiant.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes on an RV |
has anyone ever considered the addition of some sort of speedbrakes?
**I talked to the folks that make them for several airplanes,
including Glassair. They told me they were interested in developing a kit
for the RVs. They were looking for a volunteer aircraft to experiment with.
The last Oregon air fair in PDX, they said they had gotten to it yet.
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes on an RV |
<< has anyone ever considered
the addition of some sort of speedbrakes? >>
Not only have they considered it, but they have actually constructed them and
put them on their RVs. I have seen numerous RVs with them.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederick IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Speed Brakes on an RV |
Why speed brakes? Maybe if ATC is slam dunking you on an IFR approach
(and if you plan properly, not even then...), but certainly not in VFR
conditions. With the designed aspect ratio on the wing of an RV, all one
needs to do increase the angle of attack to quickly slow down. A sharp
turn into the traffic pattern accomplishes the needed slowdown (if you
haven't planned it properly). Otherwise, just start slowing down sooner.
At five miles out, I start slowly backing off the throttle....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor Ct.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: nospam(at)worldnet.att.net [SMTP:nospam(at)worldnet.att.net]
>Sent: Friday, June 26, 1998 10:59 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Speed Brakes on an RV
>
>
>Several posters have mentioned dificulty in getting their RV's to slow
>down quickly when entering landing pattern, has anyone ever considered
>the addition of some sort of speedbrakes? I am also thinking it would
>help with engine temp control b/c you could leave power on and still
>lose altitude/speed.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>timf
>st paul, mn
>(still trying to convince the wife)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederick IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna splitters |
Nicholas,
You should never connect two transmitters to the same antenna at the
same time. The only exception might be if you had an RF switch to select
which transmitter would have access to the antenna. Since one device is
your ELT, that's not a good approach. it should have its own
antenna.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nicholas Knobil [SMTP:nknobil(at)gwi.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 26, 1998 9:58 AM
> To: 'RV-LIST'
> Subject: RV-List: Antenna splitters
>
>
>
> I'm planning to have a comm and and ELT in my someday-to-be-completed
> RV
> and in my trusty '46 Aeronca Chief (currently being recovered and
> refurbished in the pole-barn).
>
> I've seen $50 radio antenna splitters in the various catalogs, but I
> think
> these are for multiple nav/comms, right? What I was planning on doing
> was
> simply getting an RG-58 "T" connector and hooking my ELT and my comm
> radio
> to the same antenna. Since neither device will be transmitting at the
> same
> time (and one hopefully never), I wouldn't thinnk there would be any
> problem with this arrangement.
>
> Am I misguided? Will transmitting on the comm damage the ELT?
>
> Nick Knobil
> Bowdoinham, Maine
> RV8 Wings in Transit
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Aero Harnesses (was Re: Hooker harness) |
> I see complete harness sets meeting racing associations standards - don't know
> what they are etc in Summit Auto catalog for about $60 per set. Look just
> like Van's.
Be sure to check the belt width and overall weight if you can. A local
RVer got some belts out of Summit racing (rotary buckle style) and was
surprised when they came at how wide the belts were and how big and
heavy the hardware was.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes on an RV |
>Several posters have mentioned dificulty in getting their RV's to slow
>down quickly when entering landing pattern, has anyone ever considered
>the addition of some sort of speedbrakes? I am also thinking it would
>help with engine temp control b/c you could leave power on and still
>lose altitude/speed.
Speed brakes are really not necessary in an RV. it is just a matter of
technique and planning ahead a little.
Now before anyone's feathers get ruffled, I must tell you that before I
built my RV-6, I owned a very well-equipped IFR V35 Bonanza, flew it IFR
many times, and NEVER did I wish for speed brakes. John Ecklbar, of the
American Bonanza Society, teaches an invaluable methodology for flying
high-performance airplanes. I highly recommend his videotape "Flying IFR
By The Numbers".
John's methodology accomplishes the following goals:
1. Reduces pilot workload when moving from one 'phase' of flight to
another. For example, reaching pattern altitude after a descent or
intercepting the glideslope on an ILS.
2. Allowing you to get from High-and-Fast to Low-and-Slow with a minimum of
fuss and avoiding shock cooling.
The first thing you must do is go out and establish a set of 'numbers'
(power, flap, and airspeed settings) for each flight phase of interest.
For example, I know that my airplane will do 120 mph at 19 inches mp and
2300 rpm, flaps up.
Next, get into the habit of planning your descents WAY ahead of time. If
you plan a descent rate of 500 fpm and find that your speed is about 200
mph (3.3 miles per minute), then remember that you need about 7 miles for
each thousand feet of altitude loss in a descent.
With those facts in mind, lets say that you are cruising along and need to
lose 5000 ft to get to pattern altitude. You immediately know that you
need to start a descent about 35 miles out. Push the nose over, and reduce
the throttle about 1 inch of mp every minute or so. This avoids shock
cooling. If it is necessary to reduce power more to keep below redline, do
so.
The intent is to end up at the bottom of the descent at 19 inches mp and
2300 rpm( our 120 mph power setting)using GRADUAL changes to power
settings. If you do this, then at the bottom of the descent, all you have
to do is raise the nose to level-flight attitude and re-trim. In my RV-6,
the airplane will decelerate quickly to 120 mph.
I also know that 17 inches mp, 2300 rpm, and half-flaps is about 90 mph.
Therefore when I get very close to the airport, simply reduce power one
more time, wait a few seconds for the airspeed to drop below flap extension
speed, and drop half-flaps.
The objective of al this is so that you don't spend a lot of time twisting,
pushing, and pulling knobs and chasing the airspeed. You end up flying the
airplane in a much more positive way. And the workload us MUCH lower.
When flying an ILS in the Bonanza, for example, the ONLY thing I needed to
do upon intercepting the glideslope was to lower the gear. No power
reductions, no airspeed changes, no re-trimming. At the right airspeed, the
extra drag of the gear caused a descent rate that matched the glideslope
almost exactly. It made an ILS a piece of cake (of course, the KFC-200
Flight Director didn't hurt either ;-) )
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV builders in Buffalo, N.Y. |
| From: | charliekuss(at)Juno.com (Charles P Kuss) |
Hi listers,
I'm up in Buffalo, N.Y. for a few days. I'd like to visit with anyone in
the area building or flying an RV. I'll also be at the airshow at Niagra
Falls, N.Y. Sunday.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl. enjoying a break from the heat for a few days
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Bocox" <rbocox(at)ryko.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Speed Brakes |
Check Tony Bingelis' books. He shows many ways to install speed brakes with good
pictures.
Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ]
RV-6A N872RF in Des Moines, Iowa
Just finished painting the fuse and canopy last night-- getting closer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
>I've seen $50 radio antenna splitters in the various catalogs, but I think
>these are for multiple nav/comms, right?
Correct . . .
> . . .What I was planning on doing was
>simply getting an RG-58 "T" connector and hooking my ELT and my comm radio
>to the same antenna. Since neither device will be transmitting at the same
>time (and one hopefully never), I wouldn't thinnk there would be any
>problem with this arrangement.
>Am I misguided? Will transmitting on the comm damage the ELT?
Not a good thing to do. What you're needing is a "diplexer"
designed to allow two transceivers to share a common antenna.
Expensive, fat and heavy . . . I'd put on a second antenna.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
battery contactor. For the ground side, one could
also consider using very soft flexible braid straps (we custom
build these to length and hole sizes). In fact, given the
very short wire lengths in an RV for battery/starter wiring,
4AWG has been used throughout with great success. But at a
minimum, consider changes to battery leads that make it a
LOT easier to hook things up.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones, Bryan D. (LPT)" <JonesB(at)geon.com> |
| Subject: | Speed Brakes on an RV |
I understand how a plane should be flown and that one should plan ahead
for let downs, etc... But, I too have wondered about installation of
speed brakes on RV's. Does anyone have any descriptions of these
installations? Its an interesting subject to me, anyway. Thanks.
Bryan Jones, Pearland, TX
RV-8, attaching fuselage top skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Biese" <Ronald.Biese(at)wanadoo.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site update, Inexpensive AutoCAD or similar |
hallo were to get it !!!
here in France it is about 15 to 20 time more expensive
they take the dollar for software about 20 to 50 french Francs !!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: vendredi 26 juin 1998 20:52
Subject: Re: RV-List: Web site update, Inexpensive AutoCAD or similar
>
>
>>Gary produced some slick performance graphs in his POH using autocad,
>>and "Aeroelectric" Bob has produced very nice wiring diagrams using
>>autocad. I'd like to do something similar, but the prices I've seen for
>AutoCAD
>>Lite are in the $500 range, which is more than I want to pay for the
>limited use
>>I'll make of it. What options have other listers used?
>
> Check with your local university bookstore for student pricing
> of AutoCADLite . . . I got my copy through my brother's unversity
> for $75. Find a store with a good price and then find and
> engineering student to take to lunch.
>
> The street price for AcadLite is $295 in the mail order houses
>
>
> Bob . . .
> AeroElectric Connection
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
> < If you continue to do >
> < What you've always done >
> < You will continue to be >
> < What you've always been. >
> =================================
> <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
> >Am I misguided? Will transmitting on the comm damage the ELT?
>
> Not a good thing to do. What you're needing is a "diplexer"
> designed to allow two transceivers to share a common antenna.
> Expensive, fat and heavy . . . I'd put on a second antenna.
My Pacific Coast Avionics catalog lists a "Dual Com Coupler"
which "allows the use of two coms through a single antenna." The
catch is, it's $395... aack!
A related question: I've seen a number of RVs with the thin whip
antenna supplied with the ELT (ACK/AmeriKing) installed inside the
canopy. I imagine that with this setup, the transmission is more
likely to be blocked by aircraft structures, but it seems to me it
would also be less likely to be wiped off in a crash. Unfortunately
this is evidently pushing the regs however since the instructions for
these units say that to meet the TSO requirements, the antenna needs
to be exterior. Any thoughts about this? I know there have been
several planes signed off in this configuration -- is there anyone on
this list who has it that way, and if so did the FAA inspector say
anything about it?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | 2nd Issue of RVator 98 |
Has anybody received the 2nd issue of RVator98 ??
I am stillwaiting for mine to show up. Was told by Van's several weeks
ago that it was in the mail.
Gert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cocker <JCocker(at)Ibm.Net> |
Just to stir the pot up, IMHO,
When our Lycomings were designed, using very cheap oil and no filters, they needed
overhauls every 2,000 hours.
Now, with very expensive sophisticated oil, and high tech filters, they need overhauling
every 2,000 hours.
Doesn't add up to me.
John Cocker RV 6A 190 hours (Using expensive oil and feeling ripped off.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Great Titanium Tie Downs |
Just got mine after a long wait. But hey, I knew it was gonna be a wait.
Gert
robert dziewiontkoski wrote:
>
>
> I am curious if anyone else has ordered the much talked about titanium tie
> downs and have not received them as I have not......
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes on an RV |
<< Several posters have mentioned dificulty in getting their RV's to slow
down quickly when entering landing pattern, has anyone ever considered
the addition of some sort of speedbrakes? I am also thinking it would
help with engine temp control b/c you could leave power on and still
lose altitude/speed.
Any thoughts? >>
Yes. Buy a c/s prop. It allows for good engine braking and allows you
develop max hp in the flat pitch mode, and really steps out in the coarser
pitch.
Once you get her down to 100 mph, the flaps deployed at 45 are like two barn
doors. Good approach planning helps too. Don't come screaming onto final at
180 mph and 3000' agl expecting to land, unless you're doing a military
approach.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV builders in Buffalo, N.Y. |
Charlie--
I live in Akron, (about 25-30 mi.from the falls) building an RV6. Will be
going to the airshow Sat?- Sun? depends on the weather, don't know how we will
meet, but I'll be glad to say hello!
Dave---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olaus Walsh" <olaus(at)linkport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site update, Inexpensive AutoCAD or similar |
I'd like to do something similar, but the prices I've seen for
>AutoCAD
>>Lite are in the $500 range, > Check with your local university bookstore
for student pricing
> of AutoCADLite . . . I got my copy through my brother's unversity
> for $75. Find a store with a good price and then find and
> engineering student to take to lunch.
>
> The street price for AcadLite is $295 in the mail order houses
another option is some companies are still offering AutoCAD R12 so if you
can stand an older but complete version it sells for fairly cheap
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site update, Inexpensive AutoCAD or similar |
Tim,
You might look into Visio, which is a program in which you "assemble"
symbols, rather than draw everything with lines, circles, and arcs. I
haven't used it, but I use AutoCad all day every day. The version I use
cost nearly as much as the wing kit for the RV-8 is going to cost me.
If you only need a few graphs or diagrams, you could sketch them up freehand
and then try to talk someone like me into putting them into CAD for you. If
you still happen to be using DOS, send me a note off list. I might have a
really good deal for you.
Gary VanRemortel's Pilot Operating Handbook is very impressive. Thanks to
both of you.
Terry Watson
RV-8 tail
Seattle
> "Aeroelectric" Bob has produced very nice wiring diagrams using
>autocad. I'd like to do something similar, but the prices I've seen for
AutoCAD
>Lite are in the $500 range, which is more than I want to pay for the
limited use
>I'll make of it. What options have other listers used?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
I am interested in obtaining information about persons with flying RV's that
are using a C/S prop, particularly those using the 0320 engine. You may
respond off-list if you like. Thanks in advance.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
>A related question: I've seen a number of RVs with the thin whip
>antenna supplied with the ELT (ACK/AmeriKing) installed inside the
>canopy. I imagine that with this setup, the transmission is more
>likely to be blocked by aircraft structures, but it seems to me it
>would also be less likely to be wiped off in a crash. Unfortunately
>this is evidently pushing the regs however since the instructions for
>these units say that to meet the TSO requirements, the antenna needs
>to be exterior. Any thoughts about this? I know there have been
>several planes signed off in this configuration -- is there anyone on
>this list who has it that way, and if so did the FAA inspector say
>anything about it?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
>Portland, OR
>randall(at)edt.com
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
Randall,
My ELT antenna is in the baggage area with the tip of the antenna in the
middle of the rear plexy in my six with a tip up. No problems with the feds.
I've seen the ACK antenna (the one with the windings similar to a spring
on the end) mounted on the bottoms. First, the rust real easy. Second, the
snag tall grass.
I'm sure the radiation pattern is less than ideal but---if the antenna is
mounted on the bottom and you wipe out the gear, the antenna is liable to
go, too. If it's top mounted and you flip, there is a good possiblity that
the antenna will be wiped out, as well. So, maybe mounting inside will
result in antenna that at least works, even though the pattern is not ideal.
Also, from some of the stuff that I've read, the chances of the ELT being of
any value in a crash are pretty small.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com (Heading to
Longmont, Sat.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna Splitters |
Actually, in the Chief I was only planning on hooking up a handheld comm
with a 1.5W output to the splitter which was also to be attached to the
ELT. Do you think there's still a problem with that low a power output?
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
A couple of years ago a fellow from Medford, OR was at Van's
Homecoming with a speed/dive brake on an RV-6. It was installed between the
flaps across the belly, about 8" wide with a batch of holes in it that I
would say were about 2" dia. He had electric flaps and used a handle
installed between the seats like the manual flaps to deploy them.
He had them deployed on landing at Van's and carrying a bunch of
power across the trees on landing. As I didn't observe the approach, having
only seen him after I heard the engine directly over head just above the
trees. I couldn't tell if he was carrying that much power on the whole
approach.
I talked with him later after looking it over. I asked him what
speed he had tested it to. He said that from a big error in a aerobatic
manuver he had deployed them as he saw the airspeed building. He said saw
260 mph on A/S as he reached for the dive brake handle.....He said it slowed
him down below 200 mph as he was pulling out........whoa nellie!
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
Try the Nav line. If you fry your nav with your ELT you are in far
less trouble than if you fry your ELT with your com and you actually
need it. The alternative is to take the ELT with you when you depart
the plane.
It is possible to build a balun which will limit the return power to
the radios but I dont have the details to hand.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Antenna splitters
Date: 26-06-98 09:57
I'm planning to have a comm and and ELT in my someday-to-be-completed RV
and in my trusty '46 Aeronca Chief (currently being recovered and
refurbished in the pole-barn).
I've seen $50 radio antenna splitters in the various catalogs, but I think
these are for multiple nav/comms, right? What I was planning on doing was
simply getting an RG-58 "T" connector and hooking my ELT and my comm radio
to the same antenna. Since neither device will be transmitting at the same
time (and one hopefully never), I wouldn't thinnk there would be any
problem with this arrangement.
Am I misguided? Will transmitting on the comm damage the ELT?
Nick Knobil
Bowdoinham, Maine
RV8 Wings in Transit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | was:Speed Brakes on an RV; now: Airmanship |
David A. Barnhart wrote:
>
>
>
> Speed brakes are really not necessary in an RV. it is just a matter of
> technique and planning ahead a little.
Dave,
Thanks for the excellent post on the difference between driving an
airplane and demonstrating airmanship.
> Now before anyone's feathers get ruffled, I must tell you that before I
> built my RV-6, I owned a very well-equipped IFR V35 Bonanza, flew it IFR
> many times, and NEVER did I wish for speed brakes. John Ecklbar, of the
> American Bonanza Society, teaches an invaluable methodology for flying
> high-performance airplanes. I highly recommend his videotape "Flying IFR
> By The Numbers".
And therein lies a key to your ability to stay ahead of your plane.
Until I started my instrument rating training, I had practically no
concept of "flying by the numbers". The method I had used up to that
point had been to try different power and pitch setting in the pattern
and hopefully it would all work out with me and the plane arriving at
the proper end of the runway with airspeed that was somewhere close to a
speed that would enable me to walk away from the landing. Ok, maybe I
exaggerate, but the point is that I was not really planning the
approach, just letting it happen in a hopefully safe (yet unskilled)
manner.
I recently had the opportunity to fly with a pilot who was having
problems getting his new conventional geared aircraft to land without
displaying various antics that ranged from merely amusing to almost
dangerous. I immediately noticed that there was no method to his
approaches. One was high and fast, the next was high and slow, the next
low and fast....you get the idea. After some discussion of "flying by
the numbers" and a couple of demonstrations, he quickly saw the value of
setting target altitudes and airspeeds.
To this relatively new pilot, the idea of setting targets was a
revelation. I gently encouraged him to consider beginning his instrument
training, because even though his plane is marginally IFR capable, the
disciple and methodology of instrument flying would vastly improve his
flying technique in general.
> John's methodology accomplishes the following goals:
> The objective of all this is so that you don't spend a lot of time twisting,
> pushing, and pulling knobs and chasing the airspeed. You end up flying the
> airplane in a much more positive way. And the workload us MUCH lower.
Precisely stated, sir. And please, don't accuse Dave and me of some sort
of IFR rating snobbishness. The whole point of this discussion is to
improve our enjoyment of our planes while learning to fly in as safe a
manner as possible. And the key to safety is to learn how to stay ahead
of the aircraft.
I recently hitched a ride with a fairly new RV pilot. He too expressed
his difficulty in getting the plane slowed down in the pattern. I
suggested that a few hours with an instrument instructor might be
beneficial, but his response was "I don't need that stuff, I'm not going
to fly in the clouds".
Too bad. Maybe he will eventually figure out for himself the sequence of
knob twisting necessary to gain mastery of his fine aircraft.
If the performance of the RV gives you a slight case of uneasiness
because you have the feeling that you are not quite as fast as the
aircraft, a few hours spent learning precision climbs and descents,
under the hood no less, will pay huge dividends in your competency and
confidence.
The RV is a good VFR airplane. But when the pilot possesses the ability
to "fly by the numbers", it becomes a truly great VFR aircraft.
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 fuselage jig length |
Greetings Fellow -8 builders,
I'm preparing my shop for the arrival of the fuselage kit. In doing so,
I'm having quite a time figuring out which way to orient the jig, so
that I can still get my bike in, get to the house quickly when my
homebrew runneth out, and other nonsense that has nothing whatsoever to
do with building an airplane.
So, how long is it? Does the fuselage extend past the end of the jig?
Thanks for your time.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
Can't believe I don't have anything to rivet now!
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler installation |
<< My question is, is it easier
to install the oil cooler on the left rear baffle, or is the firewall
installation preferable? >>
Good question that leads to my question. If you put in a Christen Inverted
Oil system, which normally I have always seen on the firewall on the right
side where the oil cooler would go, then where can you put the oil cooler?
Maybe on the front baffle?
Thanks for any suggestions
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes on an RV |
This poor guy posted to find info on speedbrakes, and got 100 other
suggestions on why you don't need one. I am also interested, does anyone
have a speed brake on their RV? How much does it weigh? I like to do
akro, would it help there? I got a ride in a Glasair once, and it had so
much energy that even after a vertical roll we had enough speed left at
the top to pull a half loop that ripped my headsets off. I'm sure a
speed brake would be very helpful in keeping the plane in an aerobatic
box.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
> << Several posters have mentioned dificulty in getting their RV's to slow
> down quickly when entering landing pattern, has anyone ever considered
> the addition of some sort of speedbrakes? I am also thinking it would
> help with engine temp control b/c you could leave power on and still
> lose altitude/speed.
>
> Any thoughts? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | electronic ignition follow-up |
Here is an update on N30YD for those interested in the trouble I was having
with the electronic ignition. As I mentioned in an earlier post, Jeff Rose
took great interest in the trouble I was having. Yesterday a package arrived
UPS containing a complete new ElectroAir system, with instructions to swap out
whatever I needed until it was working to my satisfaction. Jeff sent new
ignition wires, made with a steel wire coiled around a Kevlar core, much like
a guitar string, to replace the older Autolite orange wires he was using a
year or two ago, which had a kevlar core covered with graphite (?). The new
terminations Jeff is using are push-in spring contacts and include a new
washer inside the hex nut to allow better tightening on the spark plug and
keep the rubber washer from digging into the plug wire when the assembly is
tightened. Gone is the old brass thumbtack in the end of the wire. These
apppeared on removal to have been arcing. The orange wires were clearly
deformed by the connector washer pressure and no doubt had suffered the
conductor fracture which Jeff had suspected.
The engine ran much better after just replacing the plug wires! I might still
check the timing with a light but Jeff thinks this is seldom necessary; the
mechanical timing is close enough in most cases. I still experience slightly
more mag drop on the electronic ignition, but no more afterfiring when trying
it in cruise - a big improvement. Also I am still noticing some slight up and
down (mostly down) change in rpm and engine tone in cruise - about 20 rpm
fluctuation- -in today's unstable and murky air. I wonder -do fixed pitch
planes tend to experience this as a result of thermals? Perhaps I've been
spoiled by riding in my friend's C/S-equipped Maule these last few years; the
governor keeps the rpm spot-on. The engine rpm fluctuation seemed to
correspond roughly to the updrafts and downdrafts I was being bounced around
in today. It got my attention. Only once did the engine stumble very briefly
in cruise, and I have no idea why; it was over almost before it started.
Another question: I landed at a friend's grass strip - 2000 ft of short-mowed
smooth turf at a density altitude today of 4100 ft (love that microEncoder!)
Tanks nearly full, just me and no baggage, about 1445 lbs in all. Using 10
degrees flaps and leaned for max power, I had a close call getting out of
there (50 ft trees about 300 ft beyond the threshold). ROC at 90 mph and no
flaps was maybe 300 fpm. (at times it showed zero but I was committed by
then). This gives me real pause: I thought I had a STOL plane that would take
me and the wife to the beach in the summer from a 2000 ft backyard strip
without scaring someone half out of her mind. Is this performance typical for
a 150 hp fixed pitch RV-6A on turf at 4100 ft DALT at this loading? I know
the plane will do well on asphalt at sea level in the winter, but today's
scenario is real-world for me...
Finally, the over-rich condition I experienced with engine quitting on landing
last week was probably from the mechanic tinkering too much with the idle
mixture; it ended up about 2 -1/2 turns out. I reset it empirically to 1 -3/4
turns and it idles much better- lots less loading-up. I'm not positive the
carburetor, which came from a gravity-fed Cessna 172 (O-320 E2D) likes the 5
psi that it sees with or without the boost pump on, but maybe that's okay. I
have a suspicion the floats and/or jetting may be off slightly but haven't
tracked this down yet.
I would appreciate any feed back on today's flight experiences.
I love this plane, but it sure is a handful to get it all tweaked just right.
-Bill Boyd
western VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2nd Issue of RVator 98 |
I received mine at least two weeks ago. Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Date: Friday, June 26, 1998 2:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: 2nd Issue of RVator 98
>
>Has anybody received the 2nd issue of RVator98 ??
>
>I am stillwaiting for mine to show up. Was told by Van's several weeks
>ago that it was in the mail.
>
>Gert
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
I received my new Marv Golden anr headsets today. They look like
a regular headset, nothing fancy or new fangled about them. They
are not as comfortable as my lightspeed 20k's that have really
nice, soft thick padding on the headband and ear cups. For some
reason with the 20k's, I can not hear the radio very well when
the anr is not turned on, although I can hear great when it is
on. With the Marv Golden anr's, I can hear very well without the
anr turned on. It just cuts out the low rumble when the anr is
turned on. The marv g's fit much tighter, which may have
something to do with hearing better without the anr being on.
So, for comms, I would go with the marv g's, at 279.00. But, for
comfort, you can't beat the lightspeed's at 425.00. I hope no
one minds me taking up space for a "consumer report". After all,
I did test them in my rv-4!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 fuselage jig length |
Brian; The entire fuse jig is almost exactly 16' long outside to outside.
Von Alexander
RV-8#544 Landing gear boxes/fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes on an RV |
> This poor guy posted to find info on speedbrakes, and got 100 other
> suggestions on why you don't need one. I am also interested, does anyone
> << Several posters have mentioned dificulty in getting their RV's to slow
> > down quickly when entering landing pattern, has anyone ever considered
> > the addition of some sort of speedbrakes? I am also thinking it would
> >
I bought my -4 after ~200 hrs in an IO360 Swift. Would you believe I could land
the Swift (90 mph final) shorter than the -4? I think the reason is the built-in
speed brakes (c/s prop & very dirty landing gear) on the Swift. Yes, you can land
an RV in 450 ft, as Van claims. But my experience is that you must fly the
approach within a few mph of stall to get a decent descent angle without gaining
significant unwanted speed. The very 'dirty' Swift allowed the luxury of being
a
little sloppy. It also allowed the approach to be flown at a greater margin above
stall, which I think made for a safer approach. Small airspeed variations due to
the inevitable distractions that occur on final aren't as likely to get you into
a
stall-spin situation.
A friend recently finished a -6. I warned him about the very flat approaches I
experience, & was baffled that he didn't have the problem, until I remembered that
he has a c/s prop.
Just another opinion.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition follow-up |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Another question: I landed at a friend's grass strip - 2000 ft of short-mowed
> smooth turf at a density altitude today of 4100 ft (love that microEncoder!)
> Tanks nearly full, just me and no baggage, about 1445 lbs in all. Using 10
> degrees flaps and leaned for max power, I had a close call getting out of
> there (50 ft trees about 300 ft beyond the threshold). ROC at 90 mph and no
> flaps was maybe 300 fpm. (at times it showed zero but I was committed by
> then). This gives me real pause: I thought I had a STOL plane that would take
> me and the wife to the beach in the summer from a 2000 ft backyard strip
> without scaring someone half out of her mind. Is this performance typical for
> a 150 hp fixed pitch RV-6A on turf at 4100 ft DALT at this loading? I know
> the plane will do well on asphalt at sea level in the winter, but today's
> scenario is real-world for me...
>
> -Bill Boyd
> western VA
>
Bill
First of all you are flying with a engine you are admittedly having
problems with, don't think I would be landing in a 2000 ft strip with
trees on departure end.
What prop are you using? And what is your static rpm? And what rpm
can you get on takeoff and climb at say 100 mph? You should be able
to get a much better climb rate than 300 ft at 4100 ft DALT. I originally
had a O-320 150 hp in my RV-6 and flew into and out of similar situation
with no problems.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ATS Rivet Gun model 2606 |
I have an ATS and an Avery rivet gun. The ATS has its trigger in an awkward
position making it painful to use. The Avery gun is designed for human use
and it is far superior. Just get the Avery tools and you will not be
disappointed.
Mark McGee
RV4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
John Cocker
What sophisticated oils, Mobil AV1???
It used to be 1500hrs between overhauls. In Australia it is now
overhaul on condition for non RPT operations.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Changes
Date: 26-06-98 16:32
Just to stir the pot up, IMHO,
When our Lycomings were designed, using very cheap oil and no filters, they
needed overhauls every 2,000 hours.
Now, with very expensive sophisticated oil, and high tech filters, they need
overhauling every 2,000 hours.
Doesn't add up to me.
John Cocker RV 6A 190 hours (Using expensive oil and feeling ripped off.)
turn between the fixed portion of
>the battery box and the firewall. If you drill a hole in the removable
>portion of the battery box then the above mentioned 2 AWG wires will
>prevent removal of this. Have people notched the forward edge of the
>removable portion of the battery box? Do most people just blast straight
>forward through the firewall?
Notches and grommets in the battery box and lid are clasic
techniques for bringing out battery leads from within. Consider
this also: for the short runs involved, there's nothing wrong
with droping to 4AWG jumpers for the battery connections to
ground and battery contactor. For the ground side, one could also
consider using very soft flexible braid straps (we custom build
these to length and hole sizes). In fact, given the
very short wire lengths in an RV for battery/starter wiring,
4AWG has been used throughout with great success. But at a
minimum, consider changes to battery leads that make it a
LOT easier to hook things up.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)Ibm.Net> |
| Subject: | Buffalo NY Visit |
Charlie, I live about 18 miles from Niagara falls and I'm building an
RV6 (just finishing up the wings). I will be working the airshow
Saturday for our local EAA chapter 656, but would be available Sunday to
show you my project. I live up near Lake Ontario so it's definitely 5
degrees cooler then it is inland. Love to have you up. If you can make
it Sunday give me a call on (716)778-5404.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Trim electric Connectors? |
I know how to hard wire those tiny, tiny wires for the trim together, but
what do you electronic guys use for a connector for those same wires so I
disconnect?
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition follow-up |
I get more climb than that at 10,000 feet with my 150 rv-4 at the
same weight. Something doesn't sound right. What is your top
speed and cruise speed at, say, 2500 rpm?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery leads |
>By the way has any one tried using an insulated brass stud through the
battery
>box for the carry through?
Not on an RV, but this is a common method on some GA aircraft. For
instance Piper used a phenolic "bushing" which was riveted to the side of
the battery box and had a brass bolt running through it. It looks just
like a bearing for a control arm that one would rivet to structure except
it is made out of insulating material. From the positive post they used a
short piece of flexible braid which is soldered to the head of the bolt.
(Hole in braid, bolt pushed through braid and heated to sweat it together.)
This assembly is insuated by a 3"x4" piece of some type of fibreglass
sheet. So the whole thing goes into the Battery Box from the inside out
#1-brass bolt, #2-flexible strap, #3-fibreglass, #4-Phenolic bushing,
#5-Battery box shell, #6-Brass nut.
The bushing is large enough that the outside of the box is not a factor in
attaching the cable, and the brass nut (#6) is not in contact with Battery
Box.
I had to replace the sweated strap on an Aztec recently and became very
familiar with this assembly.
I see no reason why this wouldn't work on most anyone's battery box.
The negative terminal could be done the same way except to eliminate the
fibreglass and the bushing, since insulation is not needed.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Production vs Homebuilt |
Hi all. With the recent debate about production planes I figured I'd put a little
something up on my page. I wrote a little thing about why I chose a homebuilt over
a
production plane, and then went on to compare an RV-6A with a Zlin 242L. To get
a
more or less even comparison, I need performance figures for a 180HP, constant
speed
RV-6A. I need empty and gross weights, top speed, climbrate, and range figures.
A
200 HP RV-6 would be ideal, as the Zlin is 200HP, but I'll probably have trouble
finding one. I have not yet added it to my page, as I need this info first.
Thanks
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
Randall;
FWIW, I had my ELT mounted against the right side of the baggage area
floor, just aft of the flap carry through rod. The ant I placed on a
bracket that I mounted on the left side of the baggage area, just aft of the
canopy bow (tilt up), with about 9/10 of the ant. in the plastic area. The
tip of the ant. was under pressure from the canopy, and curved slightly in.
I figured , very scientifically, that the ant would scratch and weaken the
canopy over 100 years of flying, I placed a high tech piece of masking tape
on the canopy between it and the ant tip. The inspector saw it and made no
remark whatsoever, passed the plane on the first inspection.
Why I elected to use extra cable to mount the ant on the far side, I have no
idea other than mental lock up.
Would it work after an accident? Don't know. But figured if the canopy bow
did its' thing, then the ELT ant. should do its'.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
>several planes signed off in this configuration -- is there anyone on
>this list who has it that way, and if so did the FAA inspector say
>anything about it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Project Visits in COS Area |
I will be in the Colorado Springs area this Tuesday. Would anyone in the
area like to be visited or have some help? I get into COS at 11 am and
have the rest of the day available.
Please respond off-list gtbaker(at)bright.net or call 800-216-3569. Thanks.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
area this
Tuesday. Would anyone in the area like to be visited or have some help?
I get
800-216-3569.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim electric Connectors? |
<< I know how to hard wire those tiny, tiny wires for the trim together, but
what do you electronic guys use for a connector for those same wires so I
disconnect? >>
A six contact Molex .062 connector pair works well. They are widely available
and relatively inexpensive.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition follow-up |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Another question: I landed at a friend's grass strip - 2000 ft of
>short-mowed
>smooth turf at a density altitude today of 4100 ft (love that
>microEncoder!)
>Tanks nearly full, just me and no baggage, about 1445 lbs in all.
>Using 10
>degrees flaps and leaned for max power, I had a close call getting out
>of
>there (50 ft trees about 300 ft beyond the threshold). ROC at 90 mph
>and no
>flaps was maybe 300 fpm. (at times it showed zero but I was committed
>by
>then). This gives me real pause: I thought I had a STOL plane that
>would take
>me and the wife to the beach in the summer from a 2000 ft backyard
>strip
>without scaring someone half out of her mind. Is this performance
>typical for
>a 150 hp fixed pitch RV-6A on turf at 4100 ft DALT at this loading?
Bill,
Are you still in the middle of your phase 1 flight test time?
You have some things to look into with your airplane because this is not
normal.
What is your static RPM at full throttle during a run-up (and at what
altitude)?
What is your max level flight RPM at say 2000 ft MSL and full throttle?
What brand of prop. do you have?
I'm not
>positive the
>carburetor, which came from a gravity-fed Cessna 172 (O-320 E2D) likes
>the 5
>psi that it sees with or without the boost pump on, but maybe that's
>okay. I
>have a suspicion the floats and/or jetting may be off slightly but
>haven't
>tracked this down yet.
This very probably could be causing you problems. Some of the different
10- carb's that come off of low wing airplanes don't work perfectly in an
RV using Van's airbox. I would suspect that a carb. from a gravity feed
system is going to be off on the jetting slightly.
I think the float level is set the same regardless of what airplane it is
in though.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler installation |
>
><< My question is, is it easier
> to install the oil cooler on the left rear baffle, or is the firewall
> installation preferable? >>
>
>Good question that leads to my question. If you put in a Christen Inverted
>Oil system, which normally I have always seen on the firewall on the right
>side where the oil cooler would go, then where can you put the oil cooler?
>Maybe on the front baffle?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions
>
>Bob Busick
>RV-6
>Fremont CA
On my RV-6, I installed the oil cooler on the rear of the left rear baffle.
Granted there wasn't much room between the cooler and the engine mount but
it fit just fine there. It certainly cooled enough; I ended up covering
about 2/3rd's of the exit of the cooler to get the oil warm enough. In
warmer parts of the country (I'm in Seattle), that may not be necessary.
At least one of our RV-4 builders installed the Christen system on the
right side of the engine compartment. I don't remember what or where his
oil cooler was.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
Seattle WA USA
1974 1/2 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/14/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: 2nd Issue of RVator 98 |
In message <35940E1F.4EC5787C(at)execpc.com>, Gert writes
>
>Has anybody received the 2nd issue of RVator98 ??
>
>I am stillwaiting for mine to show up. Was told by Van's several weeks
>ago that it was in the mail.
>
>Gert
Gert
I have received mine two days ago
Mind you I live in the UK
80274
All the best
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery leads |
>Not on an RV, but this is a common method on some GA aircraft. For
>instance Piper used a phenolic "bushing" which was riveted to the side of
>the battery box and had a brass bolt running through it. It looks just
>like a bearing for a control arm that one would rivet to structure except
>it is made out of insulating material. From the positive post they used a
>short piece of flexible braid which is soldered to the head of the bolt.
>(Hole in braid, bolt pushed through braid and heated to sweat it together.)
> This assembly is insuated by a 3"x4" piece of some type of fibreglass
>sheet. So the whole thing goes into the Battery Box from the inside out
>#1-brass bolt, #2-flexible strap, #3-fibreglass, #4-Phenolic bushing,
>#5-Battery box shell, #6-Brass nut.
>
Seen this . . . obviously if it "works" for thousands of Pipers
it can't be toooooo baaaaddd. I'd like to see number of joints
(soldered, crimped and bolted) minimized in the cranking path.
The technique described is QUITE sound with respect to insulating
the hot lead as it leaves the battery box . . . but if you've got
an RG battery, why not eliminate the battery box all totogether?
Strap the bugger down in a tray and over the bolt connections with
rubber booties.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
>
> Try the Nav line. If you fry your nav with your ELT you are in far
> less trouble than if you fry your ELT with your com and you actually
> need it. The alternative is to take the ELT with you when you depart
> the plane.
> It is possible to build a balun which will limit the return power to
> the radios but I dont have the details to hand.
Baluns are matching devices that allow one to feed ballanced, center fed
dipoles (like VOR cat-whiskers) from un-balanced feedline (coax).
The performance gains for including such devices is measurable with
instruments but not noticable in real life. These cannot be used to
isolate multiple transceivers or transmitters from each other on a
common antenna . . . that critter is called a diplexer or duplexer . . .
very much different breed of cat . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Splitters |
>
>
>Actually, in the Chief I was only planning on hooking up a handheld comm
>with a 1.5W output to the splitter which was also to be attached to the
>ELT. Do you think there's still a problem with that low a power output?
The relative powers involved would probably not cause one transmitter
to "smoke" the other but the performace of each transmitter would
be greatly degraded when both try to share a common antenna without
proper hardware.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site update, Inexpensive AutoCAD or similar |
>
>Tim,
>
>You might look into Visio, which is a program in which you "assemble"
>symbols, rather than draw everything with lines, circles, and arcs. I
>haven't used it, but I use AutoCad all day every day. The version I use
>cost nearly as much as the wing kit for the RV-8 is going to cost me.
AutoCAD will use blocks too . . . in fact if you download any
of my drawings, you'll find that most everything except wires
are blocks . . . the drawing package includes my entire symbol
library.
I believe VISIO will import Autocad drawings but not export them.
I've seen some older versions pretty cheap in the software
catalogs. True, AutoCADs for DOS or the later Revison 14
are pretty breathtaking . . . I've got $3200 in my R12. But
I use AutoCADLite too . . . and it does EVERYTHING I need to
do and is a LOT less expensive.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:: ATS Rivet Gun model 2606 & others |
ATS tools are junk--I think most people will agree. I have a rebuilt Chicago
Pneumatic(Action Air) and it is superior to any other gun I have used. I have
a "clone" gun I purchased from KitTools(defunct-ex Sid Golden) and it is 95%
as good as the Chicago. Warning--not all clone guns are equal--this particular
one is very nice but some are not so good. I have used the Rivet guns
currently being sold by Avery and Cleveland and they are more than adequate
and produce good results. I recently used that rivet gun with the black case
sold by US Tools--I laughed at it when I first saw it but after using it I
quit laughing and started RIVETING. I like a 2X for skins in the .032 range
but a 3X is an excellent choice as well--maybe better. When driving 1/8 rivets
through .025 skins into a heavy spar cap as currently I have needed to do at
my place of Employment----I have used a 4X with good results--seems my 2X guns
work harden the rivet and cause it to flop over--the 4X sets them in a hurry
but does require the finese of an experianced hand ( these are long 1/8 rivets
4-6+) . I recently bought a Nova Angle Drill from Avery, subject change, what
a Kewl Tool--it has already gone places for me I never could get my Sioux 1410
into --I like it alot. JR, A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fly before you decide |
Is it acceptable to use more then 1 piece of stock when shimming? I told
a friend it is not, because he wanted to use 4 .032 strips for a shim. I
told him to use only 1. My reasoning was that every shim you add will
also add another shear point. Any comments?
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Is it acceptable to use more then 1 piece of stock when shimming? I told
a friend it is not, because he wanted to use 4 .032 strips for a shim. I
told him to use only 1. My reasoning was that every shim you add will
also add another shear point. Any comments?
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Buffalo NY Visit |
Fran--
Invited Charlie to look at my airplane also if we can find each other at the
Falls Sun.
If you find him or whatever clue him in to my place. I'll be their all day
Mon.
Dave--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mumert" <dmumert(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Drawing packages |
For anyone looking for a drawing CAD package for your panel check out
http://www.capilano.com/html/index_other.shtml
This is a schematic capture program so will not work on mechanical drawings.
It has facilities to make custom packages so you could create your avionics
and instruments.
The price? Free.
Check it out.
Dave Mumert
dmumert(at)telusplanet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Air Conditioning In An RV - Has somebody Seen This ? |
Today while doing a cross country trip through Wisconsin, my RV6A
temperature inside was almost 100 degrees. Even though I have Vans NACA
vents installed, and am getting some air into the cockpit, the
greenhouse canopy effect was overwhelming. It became very
uncomfortable.
Has anybody put airconditioning into an RV ? Or Found a way to cool them
inside when the sun is bright.
I had air-conditioning in my cherokee 180 (0-360 engine) and it worked
fantastic. I just don't know if there is enough room in an RV6A cowl to
house the air-conditioner, and where would one put the condenser ?
Any comments or sugestions as always are appreciated.
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
RV6A 105TT
trip through
though
I have Vans NACA vents installed, and am getting some air into the
cockpit, the
an RV ? Or
cherokee 180 (0-360
enough room
in an RV6A cowl to house the air-conditioner, and where would one put
the
are
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stiffners |
In the set of plans that came with my wings (older kit) the aileron
stiffners show as
5/8 x 5/8 x .016 x 8.5" long. On newer plans I noticed that they call for
5/8 x 5/8 x .025 x 9" long. Was this a mod and should I be ordering some .025?
Thanks...
Larry Olson
RV6 - ailerons
Cave Creek, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
What are you shimming? Generally shims are only used in compression (or
spacing for a tension fastener) and not in shear. When used in compression,
or for other "spacing" applications, only compression load is seen by the
shims, and multiple shims may be used. For instance, many aircraft
manufacturers use laminated shim stock which can be peeled down in .001" to
.003" increments. They are a build up of virtually .001" or so foil. The
only precaution that I can think of is if the shim thickness is critical,
keep burrs off the edges, and dirt out.
Dan Morris
RV 6 ready to fly (still waiting for WX)
-----Original Message-----
From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Date: Saturday, June 27, 1998 3:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Shimming?
>
>Is it acceptable to use more then 1 piece of stock when shimming? I told
>a friend it is not, because he wanted to use 4 .032 strips for a shim. I
>told him to use only 1. My reasoning was that every shim you add will
>also add another shear point. Any comments?
>
>--
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>Check out my RV-8 page at:
>http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fly before you decide |
<< I
told him to use only 1. My reasoning was that every shim you add will
also add another shear point. Any comments? >>
Moe
I would have to agree with you on using one shim, not necessarily for the
reason you gave. At the major commercial aircraft plants, they have shimstock
pre-cut in all sizes and thicknesses. They even have laminated shimstock that
can be "peeled" to a smaller thickness when desired. I am quite sure that
they would not go to all this time and expense if it was o.k. to double and
triple up on your shims. It is nice not to have to use any shims at all!!
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air Conditioning In An RV - Has somebody Seen This ? |
<< Or Found a way to cool them
inside when the sun is bright. >>
FLY HIGHER
You should see a difference of approx. 3 1/2 degrees per thousand feet of
altitude.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air Conditioning In An RV - Has somebody Seen This ? |
Get the Koger shade from Cleaveland Tools. Works Great.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site update, Inexpensive AutoCAD or similar |
>
>Gary produced some slick performance graphs in his POH using autocad,
>and "Aeroelectric" Bob has produced very nice wiring diagrams using
>autocad. I'd like to do something similar, but the prices I've seen for
AutoCAD
>Lite are in the $500 range, which is more than I want to pay for the
limited use
>I'll make of it. What options have other listers used?
>
Tim,
I faced the same problem about 6 months ago. I purchased a copy of TurboCad
for about $60 at COMP USA. I then downloaded Bob's wirebook from the
AeroElectric
Connection. So far, it has worked just fine. I have my entire wirebook nearly
finished and it looks very professional.
Randy Pflanzer RV-6 N417G "Special Angel"
Wiring and Other Stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wntzl(at)execpc.com (David M Wentzell) |
| Subject: | Elevator to Horizontal Stabilizer Attachment |
Greetings,
I am just about finished with empenage. In attaching the Elevator I find
that the forward tip does not have adequate clearance from the HS Skin
(where the fiberglass tip will go). The rod end bearing is turned in to
give the 13/16" distance from elevator spar to it's center as called for.
I'm thinking that the most logical solution is to trim the HS skin (about
1/8", and fiberglass also). Has anyone else expereienced this?, & what did
you do??
Thanks in advance for your help,
David Wentzell RV6 Racine, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim electric Connectors? |
Try molex crimp connectors. Available at most electtronic stores.
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | CHT Thermocouples |
Anyone know the "right" techinque for installing the ring type thermocouples
which install at the base of sparkplugs for CHT? About half the time I pull a
plug and reinstall it (with thermocouple), the temperature readings are off -
usually on the low side. I pull everything apart, reinstall it "just like it
was before", and vola...accurate temperature readings.
What am I doing wrong?
Kyle Boatright
(No, my airplane isn't finished yet, but I figure this one applies to my
bugsmasher, my RV, and your RV too.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition follow-up |
Scott McDaniels (and others) wrote:
<< Bill,
Are you still in the middle of your phase 1 flight test time?
You have some things to look into with your airplane because this is not
normal.
What is your static RPM at full throttle during a run-up (and at what
altitude)?
What is your max level flight RPM at say 2000 ft MSL and full throttle?
What brand of prop. do you have? >>
*************************
Reply: Gee, guys, this is embarassing. I honestly don't know for sure what
the full static rpm is nor the flat-out top speed and rpm in cruise. This is
mostly because I have been concerned with learning to fly the plane and
getting the engine to behave. I have been flying without pants on (wheel
pants, that is) to help monitor the brakes (they used to squeak loudly, now
just a little bit; they started leaking this weekend but I fixed a loose nut)
and to assist with speed control while I broke in the engine (fresh major.)
Any Vspeeds I collect now would have to be repeated when the pants and
fairings are all buttoned up. All I know for sure is I have the Sensenich
fixed pitch metal prop that Van's recommends for this airframe/engine hp.
I _will_ find out what the present performance numbers are. I know I have
seen redline (prop=2600rpm) at least once in cruise headed slightly downhill,
and I've had the plane up to 175 mph IAS before. But I have yet to make a
methodical collection of data on speeds, rate of climb, EGT, CHT, rpms, etc.
This seemed premature to do while I was still changing things on the ignition,
but now I see that without this info you guys have no way to tell how much HP
the engine might be producing. I will collect some data tomorrow and post it.
BTW, my neighbor pilot's wife happened to mention today that she witnessed my
takeoff from the turf strip of which I wrote. She was impressed that I got
off the ground sooner than her husband's Maule does. The climb was less
spectacular, but nothing seemed tight about the maneuver to her. She said it
sounded like I didn't have full power in (believe me, I did!) but she thought
little of it. I may not have mentioned that I had to accept a slight tailwind
(5-10 mph) due to even taller, closer trees on the upwind end of the runway.
All these things together may account for the experience, but a few nagging
doubts remain...
Numbers will be forthcoming soon, I promise. Thanks to all who took the time
to write.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 12 hrs TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Thermocouples |
You must be disturbing the crimped junction while
handling the lead. Have you tried recrimping the
terminal that forms the ring which goes around
the plus?
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Thermocouples |
<< What am I doing wrong?
Kyle >>
Kyle: like I'm one to talk with all the bugs I'm ironing out in my test
phase, but perhaps what you are doing wrong is using those under the plug
CHT thermocouples. I've heard nothing good about them. If you have a choice,
I'd suggest the bayonet type couple that goes in the cyl head well. These are
some of the few things in my engine compartment that seems to be working
flawlessly these days.
BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sharlene Shipley or Bruce Knoll <snsbfk(at)mail.sage.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Conditioning In An RV - Has somebody Seen |
This ?
Last time I checked Vans sells the Koger shade also.
BFK
>
>Get the Koger shade from Cleaveland Tools. Works Great.
>
>Jim Cone
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
For those of you who have not kept up:
A visual and microscopic study of a failed portion of the left wing spar
indicated a break symptomatic of simple overload. These inspections and tests
also indicated that airframe materials used were the specified alloys. No
oxidation, cracking, or prior idstress was evident. No evidence of reverse
load or other indicators of aerodynamic flutter were found. Breaks found at
about the mid-span of the right wing showed signs of being caused by impacting
the ground. NTSB testing of other components continues.
Fan's Aircraft has, through independent consultants, begun a design review
process, to assure design integrity.
This information was taken from Van's web page and was posted 6-26-98
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stiffners |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>In the set of plans that came with my wings (older kit) the aileron
>stiffners show as
>5/8 x 5/8 x .016 x 8.5" long. On newer plans I noticed that they call
>for
>5/8 x 5/8 x .025 x 9" long. Was this a mod and should I be ordering
>some .025?
>
Larry,
I am pretty sure that this change was done just to standardize some parts
for production (and in the new kits the ailerons are all prepunched and
the stiffeners come pre formed and pre punch for you, I think they were
unable to do this machine forming with the .016).
Call Tom at the office at Van's and ask just to be sure because this was
before my time. (or you can E-mail him on the tech support E-mail).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
ard
fairing.
The correct procedure is to do just as you suggested.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Spinner/prop |
Is the RV-3 spinner and prop mounting different from the RV-4?
Drawing 20 (fuselage) and SK-88A (engine installation) both show the
front of the cowling stopping flush with the forward edge of the prop
extention, and the spinner backplate magically some 7/8" forward of the
prop extention flange. Is there some spacer or crush plate that go
there?
I thought the spinner backplate mounted directly on the prop extention
flange, and spinner extended some 5/8" back of that.
Help! before I make the final cowling cut.
What is the diameter of the spinner at it's rearmost point?
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ERemmers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | European Builder contact |
Hi,
would like to get in contact with other RV-builders in Germany. We're near
Cologne and prepare foundation of local EAA-chapter as well. Starting RV-8.
Regards
Enno Remmers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
> even though the pattern is not ideal. Also, from some of the stuff
> that I've read, the chances of the ELT being of any value in a crash
> are pretty small.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
> (Heading to Longmont, Sat.)
The ELT of value is the portable one carried on the person of the
survivor. He can activate it as he crawls away from the fire.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Hello folks
Does anybody happen to know who sells alodine in the (greater) milwaukee
area.
It is my understanding that alodine is sold at car paint stores but I
have so far only drawn blank stares.
It is alo my understanding that it can be had in powdered form to mix
with water. Again no luck.
On the risk of starting yet another primer thread, I heard that some
primers need a top coat to seal moistere out. what good is the primer if
it does not seal moistere out.
Looking to use veriprime and alodine first IF i can find it. I have a
spray can of Martin Senour 7844 zinc chromate primer which I intended to
use for the steel parts.
Gert
RV 80721 Empenage in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hi all,
Reported in AOPA Pilot magazine:
Superior Air Parts has introduced its own engine for experimental aircraft.
Based on the Lycoming 320- and 360- series engines, the noncertified XP 360
is a horizontally opposed, air-cooled design offering horsepower choices in
the 180 to 200 range. The engine will be sold fully assembled or as a kit.
A.E.R.O. Aviation of Granite City, Illinois will be the exclusive
distributor. For more information, contact A.E.R.O. at 618/797-6630.
There are lot of questions that come to mind on this, but since I am long
way from the engine purchase stage, I will watch with interest to see what
happens next.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Density |
Anyone happen to know the approximate density of polyester resin and
fiberglass lay-ups used in RV components? i.e. weight per cubic inch?
Thanks in advance. Ivan
approximate density of
polyester resin and fiberglass lay-ups used in RV components? i.e.
weight per
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Whiteside <ewhites(at)communique.net> |
| Subject: | prepurchase inspection help |
Greetings listers,
Since current work/living limitations preclude building for now, I am
in the market for a clean, flying rv-6 or rv-4 (preferred). Before
closing a deal I want to enlist some rv-qualified assistance on a
prepurchase inspection. Any suggestions on the best way to find such
expertise, or at least a checklist of key rv-specific items to
scrutinize?
ewhites(at)communique.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: prepurchase inspection help |
Go find yourself somebody who has built one and is flying it and ask them to look
over your prospective purchase.
I'm available and only charge what I can drink in beer (while not flying of
course)
chet razer
http://scribers.midwest.net/razer/
RV6A: 70 hrs flying
Eric Whiteside wrote:
>
> Greetings listers,
> Since current work/living limitations preclude building for now, I am
> in the market for a clean, flying rv-6 or rv-4 (preferred). Before
> closing a deal I want to enlist some rv-qualified assistance on a
> prepurchase inspection. Any suggestions on the best way to find such
> expertise, or at least a checklist of key rv-specific items to
> scrutinize?
> ewhites(at)communique.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Malone <scottm(at)pld.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 A1A vs C1C |
CAN SOMEONE TELL ME THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN IO-360 A1A AND AN IO-360
CIC? I HAVE A RV-6 THAT HAD AN AIA INSTALLED AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW
HARD IT WOULD BE TO INSTALL A C1C.
ALSO, HAS ANYONE HAD ANY GOOD OR BAD EXPERIENCE WITH "AIR-TEC INC." IN
ORLANDO AS FAR AS OVERHAULED ENGINES GO?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Now that it is officially "sunny and hot" (It is supposed to hit 110
degrees today) here in Phoenix Arizona, I thought I would let everyone know
about my oil temps.
Today at presusre altitude 5000 ft, Density altitude 8000 ft, running 75
percent power (24 inches mp and 2300 rpm), OAT of 92 degrees, my oil
temperature was 215 F.
The engine is an IO320-B1A. The oil cooler is mounted behind the number 4
cylinder. If you have Van's Baffle kit, take note of the recommended-size
hole in the baffle for the oil cooler. That is an Oregon-sized hole. I
have an Arizona-sized hole, which is about the same size as the face of the
oil cooler.
If anyone has questions, please do not hesitate to email me directly.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying (but only in the mornings when it is a 'cool' 90 degrees)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Thermocouples |
>Kyle: like I'm one to talk with all the bugs I'm ironing out in my test
>phase, but perhaps what you are doing wrong is using those under the plug
>CHT thermocouples. I've heard nothing good about them. If you have a
choice,
>I'd suggest the bayonet type couple that goes in the cyl head well.
CHT thermocouples for spark plugs were all you could get back in
the good ol' daze . . . and certainly better than nothing. The major
problem with them is breakage of the thermocouple wire from the
washer . . . MOST folks have trouble with thermocouples because of
poor interconnection technique . . . the wires are not solderable
with ordinary techniques (silver solder works) and crimped joints
are especially unreliable because (1) folks introduce new thermocouples
by crimping the wires into plated brass terminals and (2) most
crimped terminals are made from much softer material than the
thermocouple wire . . . poor intermolding of the two materials and
a mechanically unreliable joint results.
Thermocouple connnectors are available from folks like Omega
Engineering for about $3.00 per joint that use screw terminals
to capture the wire . . . further, the materials used are more
friendly for the advoidance of introducing new thermocouples and
upsetting the system's calibration.
Some hints: I've had pretty good luck fabricating/repairing
spark plug thermocouples by silver-soldering the two wires to
the edge of a sparkplug gasket . . . yes, they come apart
from time to time but they're easy to repair too. If you HAVE
thermowells in your cylinder heads you can fabricate your
own CHT probes. Find a male threaded fastener to fit the
tapped hole at the top of the thermowell. Drill through
the center with a #30 drill. Fabricate a brass disk same
diameter as thermowell. Make new thermocouple by twisting
1/8" of bare wires together and silver-solder, then tack
solder to back of brass disk. Use stainless spring to
press disk to bottom of thermowell and hold the whole
business into place with previously fabricated plug . .
wire comes out the center hole of course. Use some
anti-sieze on the plug threads before final installation.
I've used this technique to replace several spark plug
probes on airplanes that had thermowells in the
cylinder heads after an engine rebuild.
Try NOT to make any joints in thermocouple wire between
probe and the instrument.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temp Report |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Now that it is officially "sunny and hot" (It is supposed to hit 110
>degrees today) here in Phoenix Arizona, I thought I would let everyone
>know
>about my oil temps.
>
>Today at presusre altitude 5000 ft, Density altitude 8000 ft, running
>75
>percent power (24 inches mp and 2300 rpm), OAT of 92 degrees, my oil
>temperature was 215 F.
>
>The engine is an IO320-B1A. The oil cooler is mounted behind the
>number 4
>cylinder. If you have Van's Baffle kit, take note of the
>recommended-size
>hole in the baffle for the oil cooler. That is an Oregon-sized hole.
>I
>have an Arizona-sized hole, which is about the same size as the face
>of the
>oil cooler.
>
>If anyone has questions, please do not hesitate to email me directly.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
>Flying (but only in the mornings when it is a 'cool' 90 degrees)
>
>
>
Dave,
Sounds like it is doing pretty well for Arizona conditions.
The true test will be (but wait until the engine has some more hours on
it) after flying for an hour or so, land and park just long enough to
drink down an ice tea at the restaurant and then fire it up again and
climb to about 7500 ft. If it stays off of red line, you have it made
for any conditions that you will ever find anywhere. If it doesn't then
you just know that operationally you have to have alternative plans to
deal with it in those conditions.
BTW it got all the way up to 83 deg F. here in North Plains today.
I sure miss AZ (from November through April).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim electric Connectors? |
Quick disconnects, but try talking to your local AMP supplier (look up
their web site if you have a few days,it contains their complete
catalogue) or try "Radio Shack", he should be able to get you the same
connectors shown in AC43 but he probably wont stock them. As an
alternate there are any number of variations in little nylon
connectors Radio Shack will stock that work quite well.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Trim electric Connectors?
Date: 27-06-98 05:34
I know how to hard wire those tiny, tiny wires for the trim together, but
what do you electronic guys use for a connector for those same wires so I
disconnect?
Have a good one!
Denny - RV-6 finishing
harje(at)proaxis.com
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Date: Sunday, June 28, 1998 8:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: alodine
>Does anybody happen to know who sells alodine in the (greater) milwaukee
>area.
Gert, I found a Dupont product at a local auto paint store; Step A 225S
Cleaner and Step B 226S conversion coating. It ia a pain to use as you have
to keep the surface wet for the prescribed length of time. It would be
easier to dip it but that takes a lot of material. Perhaps you can find a
local metal finishing shop that will dip your parts for you. I'm not sure
what you gain if you are not building a seaplane.
>It is my understanding that alodine is sold at car paint stores but I
>have so far only drawn blank stares.
>>>Looking to use veriprime and alodine first IF i can find it. I have a
>spray can of Martin Senour 7844 zinc chromate primer which I intended to
>use for the steel parts.
Veriprime works well by itself. I have also used a product called Marhyde
which comes in a single component spray can, is tough and gives a nice
looking grey finish. I'm thinking of using it for the interior finish
paint. Thanks to Brian Denke on the list for the recommendation.
FWIW. Good luck. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage done waiting for QB,
Chandler, AZ
>>Gert
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temp Report |
Gee Scott, Gets any warmer and you'll kill the moss growing on the north
side of the empennage ;)
Jeff Farrar, formerly Salem OR, now Chandler AZ (no moss anymore)
-----Original Message-----
From: SCOTT R MCDANIELS <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Sunday, June 28, 1998 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Temp Report
>
>>
>>Best Regards,
>>Dave Barnhart
>>rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
>>Flying (but only in the mornings when it is a 'cool' 90 degrees)
>>
>Dave,
>
>
>BTW it got all the way up to 83 deg F. here in North Plains today.
>I sure miss AZ (from November through April).
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Thermocouples |
Kyle,
the tapped holes in the cylinder heads that can
be used for probes are 1/8 pipe threads. they are ment
to have adapters for probes. Using any other type thread
will damage the hole in the cyl head.
Rver273sb Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Got a ride in Vans RV8 demo nose dragger at the
Longmont fly in today! What a terrific aircraft! Quite
a performer even with a density alt of approx 9000
ft. I had all the confidence in the world with the
aircraft and the pilot! GOTA build an RV8!
RVer273sb in CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery leads |
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Saturday, June 27, 1998 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Re[2]: RV-List: Battery leads
>
>
> but if you've got
> an RG battery, why not eliminate the battery box all totogether?
> Strap the bugger down in a tray and over the bolt connections with
> rubber booties.
>
>
> Bob . . .
VERY good point! Is there a requirement or good engineering principle
behind using a battery box with an RG battery? The box from Van's is
unvented (to the outside) and seems to just be a hindrance.
Comments appreciated.
Dennis Persyk 6A canopy
Barrington, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | New Archive Search Engine Now Online! |
Listers,
After 223 lines of HTML, 623 lines of CGI Script, and 1173 lines of C code,
the all new Archive Search Engine is complete and now online!
You will notice a significant improvment in both the performance and
functionality of the new engine. You will need a browser that supports
frames such as Netscape 3.0-4.0 or Internet Explorer 3.0-4.0. The new
engine will split your browser window into 2 or 3 horizontal frames and will
view best if you make your browser window as tall as possible.
The search engine is running on a Dual Processor 200Mhz Pentium Pro Linux
system and you won't believe how fast the searches are! A one-word search
takes on the order of 3 or 4 seconds or less! A two-word ANDd search, maybe
4 to 5 seconds!
So give it a try, have fun, and let me know what you think.
You may access the search engine from the standard RV or Zenith List web pages
or directly at:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
RV and Zenith List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A fuselage aluminum brake lines |
Hello Listers,
Drawing 49 shows how to route the inch aluminum brakes lines from the
F-6122 bracket to the AN 833 elbows on either side of the fuselage. I
have five questions (at least):
1. How should I route the inch aluminum brake line around or
under the battery box?
2. How is the inch aluminum brake line supported? The acceptable
practice manual from the FAA says that a fuel line should be supported
by clamps every 12 inches. Is this also true for brake lines?
3. If I am supposed to support the brake lines with clamps between
the F-6122 and the AN 833 elbows, where do you recommend that I drill
them? Do you builders drill them to the angles in the side walls of the
fuselage and bolt the clamps to the angles? You don't drill the clamps
to the skin do you?
4. Are the correct brackets to use MS 21919? If so did they come
with the kit? I can't seem to find them.
5. Looking ahead, still at drawing 49, how are the fuel lines
supported? Do I use MS 21919 clamps for them too? Should I be planning
to support both the fuel and brake lines at common clamping points
(using separate clamps of course) to the greatest extent possible?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
Thinking about taking the fuselage out of the jig, but doing little
things first ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
RV-6, S/N 23077, N57422 took to flight for the first time today. After
almost 5 years in the building it was good to complete the flight with
no major problems (I think). The powerplant is a 0-320 with Airflow
Performance injector, Lightspeed ignition, and Sensenich prop.
The data that was taken today was mostly engine related, but it sure
goes fast, and climbs good.
If anyone else is using this engine/ prop combination I would be curious
to hear what your static or takeoff RPM's are, and the pressure
altitude/ OAT. I'm turning only about 2000 RPM's Static and takeoff at
a Pa of 300 ft, OAT 75F. Once airborne, the climb is over 1500 fpm,
with the RPM's up to about 2100. The RPM's sound low to me, but the
climb performance seems ok. RPM's at cruise, 5000 ft Pa, OAT 68F, and
165 IAS and 2500 full throttle.
The airplane was built by 3 partners.
Daniel H. Morris
Joseph O. Presson
Dennis Young
time
complete the
with
Airflow Performance injector, Lightspeed ignition, and Sensenich
related, but
combination I would
be curious to hear what your static or takeoff RPM's are, and the
pressure
takeoff
fpm,
the climb
and 165
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 A1A vs C1C |
I bought my O-360 A1A from Air-Tec. They were very easy to work with and
the engine looks great, however I haven't run it yet so can't help you
there. It came with a lightweight starter and alternator and I went with
one electronic mag. It wasn't explained to well to me what I was getting,
but it's not electronic ignition, just a mag hooked to a coil for a lot
more power but the timing remains constant. Should be better but not as
much as I thought I was getting. The only thing I wish they would do is
test run the engine on a cell which doesn't happen. I live near the Ly-Con
folks in Visalia, Ca and they test/dyno all their rebuilds which seems like
a great idea.
Marcus Cooper
RV-6 getting really close!
----------
> From: Scott Malone <scottm(at)pld.com>
>
>
> ALSO, HAS ANYONE HAD ANY GOOD OR BAD EXPERIENCE WITH "AIR-TEC INC." IN
> ORLANDO AS FAR AS OVERHAULED ENGINES GO?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | flight report with numbers |
Dear fellow listers:
As promised, I flew today with pen and paper along to collect flight data. I
hpoe the results will prove analyzable by the list's engine gurus.
6/28/98 RV-6A N30yd Test Flight from LWB, West Virginia, 17:55 local, Field
elev: 2303 MSL; OAT 28C. Surface winds 7 kts. Aircraft configuration: Wt
1440lbs, no wheel pants or gear-fuselage intersection fairing installed.
Engine Lyc. O-320-E2D with Metal FP Sensenich prop. Left mag: Slick firing
top plugs. Right mag: ElectroAir electronic variable timing ignition firing
bottom plugs. Engine instrumentation: Grand Rapids Technologies "Engine
Information System" type J&K thermocouples for EGT/CHT on all 4 cylinders.
Van's standard filtered aibox induction system. Carb: standard MA-4(?) from
Cessna -172 application; original jetting. Fuel: 100LL.
MAP recorded with engine off: 27.4 in Hg
Static RPM: 2200 @ MAP=27.0
Level cruise data was measured at various manifold pressures at 4500 MSL:
MAP=20 RPM= 2090 IAS= 130 TAS= 141mph
MAP=22 RPM= 2180 IAS= 132 TAS= 144
MAP=24 RPM= 2310 IAS= 141 TAS= 156
MAP=25 RPM= 2560 IAS= 155 TAS= 173 (this is max pwr cruise
The lack of rpm/speed change from 20 to 22 inches of manifold pressure was
surprising. I had not noticed that before. The engine began its rough
running habit again at power settings above 22 in Hg.
Here are cruise temps recorded at MAP= 24, RPM= 2370, IAS= 149 mph, OAT= 30C:
CHT #1= 323 EGT#1= 1499
#2= 342 #2= 1487
#3= 349 #3= 1596
#4= 350 #4= 1566
Several things became apparent. As the engine rpm undulated up and down,
there were accompanying changes in the manifold pressure (up to 0.9 in Hg
variation in a few seconds with no change in throttle setting or mixture
setting) and excursions of the EGT's was also noticable. I jotted the
following hasty notes on how the EGTs varied during an attempt at level flight
while the engine was surging (can you say "head buried inside the cockpit; let
THEM see and avoid?")
Cyl 1 EGT 1456 to 1472F. variation 16 degrees.
Cyl 2 EGT 1479-1493F. VAriation 14 deg.
Cyl 3 EGT 1509-1562F. Variation 53deg. This cyl seems to get hotter when the
rpm stumbles downward.
Cyl 4 EGT 1518-1536F. Variation =18deg. This cyl might get a bit cooler EGT
as the rpm drops.
Fuel pressure is a steady 4 to 5 psi at all times, with or without the boost
pump running.
I will let others comment (please!) on the static and cruise rpm and cruise
speeds as far as how they compare to ideal. It looked to me like an induction
leak, affecting primarily #3 cyl, which is the pickup point (primer port) for
the MAP sensing. In the after-flight innspection I did find several possible
leaks, but tightening them did NOT resolve the surging problem on subsequent
flight. In fact, the afterfiring and rough running on the right ignition
returned and I cut the second flight short after discovering this, so I have
no hard #'s from that flight. I still suspect an induction leak. I need to
check the primer fittings again for leaks. They don't leak fuel that I can
tell, but did at first, and perhaps are loose again. I do not know how good
the damping is on the MAP sensor that Greg supplies for his E.I.S., but I
suspect swings of almost an inch of manifold pressure are far beyond what is
normal. It would appear that timing/ignition is not the primnary culprit, but
I cannot absolve a system that gives me worse performance by itself than the
magneto does. When I cleaned and regapped the Bottom plugs Saturday, while
replacing the ignition wires (see earlier post) the plugs were foungd to have
some oil on them, but no fouling and no indication of lean or rich condition
in any cylinder.
The plugs have 2 hrs on them since cleaning, and I leaned aggressively today
during ground ops, so I doub they are fouled.
The investigation is ongoing. I will replace the ElectroAir sensing unit and
recheck the mag and EIS timing next trip to the airport. Also I want to
replace all questionable vacuum hoses with the "good stuff" and proper clamps
on all fittings. Other suggestions welcome. I could use the help; this is
frustrating!
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Archive Search Engine Now Online! |
The search engine is great! Thank you!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
My understanding is that the tested 8 wing failed at about nine g's. Does
anyone know what g loads were required to cause failure of the 4 wing or the 6
wing?
Thanks.
hilljw(at)aol.com
rv-8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Offensive nicknames etc. |
I think spam can is a term of endearment to us builders. Helps us to
remember we put our own aircraft together as opposed to being stamped out
like, well, a can.
There is a T-shirt I see at OSH every year that bothers me: "Friends don't
let friends fly plastic airplanes" or something like that. The premise is
cute but it implies there is really something very wrong with glass
airplanes. My problem with it is the 'general public' sees a similar saying
related to driving drunk and they may think plastic airplanes are somehow
dangerous or bad. And THAT is a put-down Experimental aviation doesn't even
need implied. No I don't have/want a plastic airplane. Just concerned about
image.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT Thermocouples |
| From: | rvsixer(at)Juno.com (michael d hilger) |
>
> Try NOT to make any joints in thermocouple wire between
> probe and the instrument.
>
>
>
Bob,
For a multi-probe, selectable CHT, would a special switch be used
or will any good rotary switch do? Also, lugged or solder terminals on
the switch? I have read thermocouple leads can be extended with ordinary
wire so can that be used between the switch and indicator?
Mike Hilger
RV-6, canopy and systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temp Report |
>Today at presusre altitude 5000 ft, Density altitude 8000 ft, running 75
>percent power (24 inches mp and 2300 rpm), OAT of 92 degrees, my oil
>temperature was 215 F.
Well, THIS is going to make you mad: today, OAT of 95 degrees ambient,
22/2400 at 7500, (9050da), oil cooler hole (2 inch) 65% blocked in front,
oil cooler gate full open from start-up behind the oil cooler: 180 F.
I have a very tight baffle/baffle seal as evident by the rubber prints on
the inside of the cowel. I sometimes think the -4 cowel may work better and
I don't even know why or how. I have never seen a cylinder head temp above
305 (today). My cowel openings are "standard size". Maybe the area I take
the air from off the baffle (JUST below the seal) makes a difference. I also
take cockpit air from high off the baffle and it is (seems, no measurement
yet) ambient.
I don't know. Some things are such a mystery when it comes to airplanes.....
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
From: Department of Encouragement
Re: Sunday Flying Thoughts
There has been some chatter about control stick movement/sensitivity. I was
up flying this morning and was marveling at the control harmony of the RV-4.
I noticed my hand just lightly rests on the Infinity grip (which I really
like, by the way). Not much movement of the stick to make the airplane do
what I want it to do. OK, let's see how much it takes to make something
happen. At 175 TAS at 7000, 20/2400 and leaving throttle alone, it takes
1/4" movement of the stick to pull up into a 1 1/2G 2000+ FPM climb. 1/4"
initial left or right will put you into a nice 2 minute turn. That is
measured at the very top of a standard length stick. Want more turn? One
inch initial movement is a 1 1/2 G 35 degree turn.
SO: sensitive? No; that would be some folks on this list (Hahahahaha ha he
hmmm ahem. sorry.). Responsive? You bet. Just the way you always dreamed
an airplane would respond. It always amazes me how a 2G 45+ degree turn
takes very little back pressure and almost no rudder. You have to try not to
climb. When I said think of the turn and the airplane will go there for you,
this is about as close as you can get to that.
Took Chad up the other night. It was like butta. Sun went down several times
behind the mountains. I had him in tears. That's how much he was enjoying
the flight. (Didn't have the rear stick in. I need to work on the angle some
to make it more comfortable from the back seat. And to keep it further away
from the front seat back.) I enjoy showing folks the thrill of a ride in
Suzie Q. He couldn't believe it. The visibility and the clip we were doing
across the landscape just amazed him. First time in an RV and the first time
up for him in anything in probably a year. That is what taking people up is
all about.
Longmont Fly-in: good show but not enough RV's for me. (Overheard comment
was they were the aviation equivalent of a Volkswagen. From a non-builder. I
think it was a complement.) Weather was fantastic albeit HOT and a lot of
flying looking eating got done. Thanks to Ryan and crew a LOT of folks were
not very hungry by about 1:30 Saturday; yet another good feed and the
biggest crowd I've seen there to eat the fixin's. Thanks again, Ryan. I
think some folks came to the fly-in just for the food.
RV-8A and Tom were there giving rides WITHOUT the rear stick in (read into
that whatever you want). Tom was surrounded every time I looked over there.
I know he fielded a LOT of questions about spars. People I talked to who
talked to him seemed satisfied it was probably not a design flaw. The -8A
looks good but I STILL can't get used to that airplane with the nose wheel.
Sorry, just not used to it. Yet. Seems to get right with the program, however.
I had to leave early both days and don't know what the traffic was like in
the early afternoons, but there were some award winning RV's there. The
quality of construction/finish just keeps improving. Sorry, Cessna. Wasn't
that impressed with your "new" one. The Columbia 300 was there fast and
slick doing demos. I wish them luck as maybe it will get the Big Guys off
their collective duff to have a little modern competition.
Great days at the airport. And BOY was it fun showing off Suzie Q. Lots of
questions from good folks. Someone asked if she was a military trainer (she
is still in primer. OK, and with some stars and bars; why not have some
fun?) Showing off your creation is just another facet of having one of the
best airplanes ever designed. Did I mention you are going to love your
airplane? For many different reasons?
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Fitting like a glove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
<< I'm turning only about 2000 RPM's Static >>
Daniel,
I like to see a minimum of 2200rpm static and would feel even
better with 2300rpm. I like to see about 2700RPM at full power. This of course
is only my preference.
I think your slightly overpitched. You may want to have the Sensenich people
tweak it slightly.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight report with numbers |
>Static RPM: 2200 @ MAP=27.0
>Level cruise data was measured at various manifold pressures at 4500 MSL:
>MAP=20 RPM= 2090 IAS= 130 TAS= 141mph
>MAP=22 RPM= 2180 IAS= 132 TAS= 144
>MAP=24 RPM= 2310 IAS= 141 TAS= 156
>MAP=25 RPM= 2560 IAS= 155 TAS= 173 (this is max pwr cruise
>
>The lack of rpm/speed change from 20 to 22 inches of manifold pressure was
>surprising. I had not noticed that before. The engine began its rough
>running habit again at power settings above 22 in Hg.
>I will let others comment (please!) on the static and cruise rpm and cruise
>speeds as far as how they compare to ideal. I still suspect an
induction leak.
>Bill Boyd
Bill,
The only data I have at 4,500 feet is for my old, wood prop. Full
throttle, 2,614 rpms, 25.5 m.p. Indicated was 177 mph and TAS was 181 mph.
Temp was 56 F.
I have a little data on the Sensenich. I did have to drop the pitch down
a couple of inches from Van's recommendations for a 150 hp, RV-6. Static
was 2,082 at around 2,300 feet. I pitched the prop so that, at 7,500 feet
at full throttle that it turned close to 2,600 rpms. At 7,500 feet, leaned
for best power at full throttle, I get 2,584 rpms, 23" m.p., IAS 168, TAS
(calibrated) of 182 mph. Temp was 57 F.
By the way, my six had the same top speed with both the wood prop and the
Sensenich prop. The Sensenich did this with 100 less rpms.
There was another lister within the last few months who was having a
problem similar to yours with his carb. Gary Corde, long time lister, also
had this problem. The answer was to drill the carb jet out. From drill
size 41 to 36, if I remember correctly. A 6A pilot in Sheridan recently had
the same problem and after drilling the jet out the problem was solved.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
>If anyone else is using this engine/ prop combination I would be curious
>to hear what your static or takeoff RPM's are, and the pressure
>altitude/ OAT. I'm turning only about 2000 RPM's Static and takeoff at
>a Pa of 300 ft, OAT 75F. Once airborne, the climb is over 1500 fpm,
>with the RPM's up to about 2100. The RPM's sound low to me, but the
>climb performance seems ok. RPM's at cruise, 5000 ft Pa, OAT 68F, and
>165 IAS and 2500 full throttle.
>Daniel H. Morris
>Joseph O. Presson
>Dennis Young
Daniel, etc.
I re-pitched my Sensenich so that, at full throttle, leaned for best power
at 7,500 feet that I was bumping right up against 2,600 rpms. My static rpm
is just below 2,100 at 2,300 feet. I believe that if you were to re-pitch
your prop to increase your rpms at cruise that your static and take off
performance would be better and you will cruise faster, as well.
Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight report with numbers |
This is probably of no help to your troubleshooting, but, I lost
a mag on my old Bonanza once. I first noticed it as the EGT
quickly went 100 or more deg. higher than normal. Those old 6
cyl's run so smooth on one mag, sometimes you have to use
something besides your ears to know how the engine is running.
Before this happened I would have thouoght the EGT would have
gone down with one mag off.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
After 5 hrs. I believe I was a little optimistic of the cruise speed of my
new
Warnke 70X74 prop. I stated it looked like a 10 mph increase. It now looks
more like a 4 mph increase.
The old setup was 150 horse with a 70X70. My new setup is 160 horse with a
70X74 prop. My static is 2300 rpm. I really can't tell much difference in the
new setup verses the old setup. Except I'm not burning a qt. of oil every
two hrs. now.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederick IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com> |
Consider using less expensive straight weight oil......
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Cocker [SMTP:JCocker(at)ibm.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 26, 1998 4:32 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Changes
>
>
> Just to stir the pot up, IMHO,
>
> When our Lycomings were designed, using very cheap oil and no filters,
> they needed overhauls every 2,000 hours.
>
> Now, with very expensive sophisticated oil, and high tech filters,
> they need overhauling every 2,000 hours.
>
> Doesn't add up to me.
>
> John Cocker RV 6A 190 hours (Using expensive oil and feeling ripped
> off.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Smith <kpsmith(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Density |
Fiber reinforced plastic varys widely in density depending on the amount
of reisin, glass, filler, and gel coat used and how much air is trapped
in the layup. Additionally, the thickness and part repeatability is not
constant between hand laid up parts, such as Van supplies. A more
useful value is weight per square foot. This can be determined by
measuring a small piece of known area.
A typical hand layup will be 40 to 60% glass by volume. If you are
really serious, ask me offline at my work e-mail below and I will look
up table values for reisin and glass, and you can average them in
proportions you believe you are interested in. Being precise is not a
good idea as there is so much variability in the parts.
For estimating purposes, using the density of aluminum will put you in
the right ball park.
If you are estimating the weight of fairing compound, variability is
even higher. Bondo uses clay as a filler. I use a fairing compound
made of phoenelic and epoxy as a good compromise between sandability and
weight. For light-freaks, a filler of microbaloons and epoxy is feather
weight. Filler can also be polyester fiber, linen fiber, glass fiber, or
a mix. Filer ratios can vary all over the map too. A block of bondo
sinks, a block of light filler floats like cork. Take your pick.
Ken Smith
(w) ksmith(at)packereng.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Block Location -6A |
| From: | whays(at)Juno.com (Wes Hays) |
Listers,
I need some suggestions for location of the fuse and grounding blocks on
a -6A. I am at the point I would like to run some wiring while it is
still easy to get to everything. I have a pretty solid idea of where all
components will be located but I can't seem to find "the best" location
for the fuse and grounding blocks from AeroElectric Connection.
I don't want to run the wires till I know where I am going with them so I
would appreciate any suggestions or comments on fuse and ground block
locations for the -6A.
TIA for helping the "electrically challenged"
Wes Hays
RV-6A (Fuse with all skins drilled in)
Rotan, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Lawrence" <cobra(at)peppersnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A fuselage aluminum brake lines |
I don't know how the RV6 is put together, but I have 745 hours into
rebuilding an RV4 'cause of improper clamping of an oil line, it doesn't
take alot of vibration to crack a fluid line if not installed properly or
with not enough slack for expansion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
<< I like to see a minimum of 2200rpm static and would feel even
better with 2300rpm. I like to see about 2700RPM at full power. >>
Remember that Sensenich limits this prop to 2600 rpm. My numbers are similar
to Daniel's and I hit 2600 rpm in full power cruise with even the slightest
accidental "downhill" flight.
Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes on an RV |
It amazes me that people who haven't even flown an RV are interested in speed
brakes for their RV's. Unless you are installing a turbocharger you don't
need 'em. Get back to work.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim electric Connectors? |
>I know how to hard wire those tiny, tiny wires for the trim together, but
>what do you electronic guys use for a connector for those same wires so I
>disconnect?
The connectors that MAC offers for their servos are miniature
DIN series audio connectors . . about .4" diameter and quite
compact. Carefully assembled, these should do fine. If one is
concerned about moisture and/or these connectors becomeing
dis-engaged (they are not a locking type device) then a piece
of 1/2" heatshrink over the mated connectors keeps them covered
and together. The heatshrink is easily replace if you have to
cut it off later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery leads |
>> but if you've got
>> an RG battery, why not eliminate the battery box all totogether?
>> Strap the bugger down in a tray and over the bolt connections with
>> rubber booties.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>
>VERY good point! Is there a requirement or good engineering principle
>behind using a battery box with an RG battery? The box from Van's is
>unvented (to the outside) and seems to just be a hindrance.
>Comments appreciated.
For the 1950's technology batteries that many souls still
carry around in their airplanes . . you betcha . . the
flooded battery spits, fumes, leaks, and dribbles . . .
none of it pleasant to be around and all of it hard on
aluminum. RG batteries can do none of these things so
your only concerns are structural (strap them down well)
and electrical (cover the exposed terminals with rubber
booties) and you're done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Thermocouples |
> the tapped holes in the cylinder heads that can
>be used for probes are 1/8 pipe threads. they are ment
>to have adapters for probes. Using any other type thread
>will damage the hole in the cyl head.
I recall that now . . . I think we used brass
1/8" pipe plugs drilled for wire exits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/26/98 6:05:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, JCocker(at)Ibm.Net
writes:
> Doesn't add up to me.
The difference is that engines that are treated to fresh oil almost always
make it ti TBO. This was not the case 20 years ago.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry & Joan Lumb" <lumb(at)flinet.com> |
Any thoughts on the location (or need) of drain holes in the RV6A?
Obviously, one is needed in the FG tip at the bottom of the rudder.
Hank Lumb
RV6A fuselage
W. Palm Beach, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes on an RV |
Dave Barnhart told us about flying IFR in a slick Bonanza and
never feeling the need for airbrakes. He then tells us about some
flight methods that all of us should be familiar with. No argue
from me.
But I've also been thinking about speed brakes for two scenarios, and
someone else mentioned a third one:
1. You're tired or not paying attention and oops. Hey -- it happens.
And now you're about to run over a student-driven Cessna 152 in the
pattern. *Ouch*.
2. It's December in Minnesota. Tops are at 3200. Given that it's
between October and May, the briefers are telling everyone "Chance of
icing in clouds and precipitation". So, you stay above the clouds
until the last minute, then start down. The longer you can stay up,
the less time you'll have to run into that "chance". (Let's avoid
the "forecast icing" is "known icing" and "chance" is "forecast"
discussion.)
3. You screw up an aerobatic maneuver.
Given that Dave isn't from Minnesota, maybe he's not aware of our
several-month period of easy IFR weather, but you want to pop down
quickly.
Comments?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Thermocouples |
> For a multi-probe, selectable CHT, would a special switch be used
>or will any good rotary switch do? Also, lugged or solder terminals on
>the switch? I have read thermocouple leads can be extended with ordinary
>wire so can that be used between the switch and indicator?
Are you one of our subscribers? There's a pretty good write up
on thermocouples in chapter 16.
When you switch thermocouples, you need to do the same thing exactly
to one side of the thermocouple path as you do to the other. I.e.
four thermocouples need to be switched with a two pole-4 position
switch. Extending the thermocouples with plain wire moves your
"reference junction" from the instrument to the point where the
thermcouple wires turn into copper . . . if this point occures
close to the instrument, it's probably okay.
Any good rotary switch is fine for driving an electronic
instrument readout (some unpowered, thermocouple displays
are VERY sensitive to increases in path resistance). I'd
bring thermocouple wires into the switch location. Silver-
solder "tin" the leads so you can soft-solder them to
the switch terminals . . . then use another piece of thermocouple
wire to extend from the switch on to the instrument.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Offensive nicknames etc. |
I think we all need to develop a good sense of humor and share it with the
"general public" - do people think Fords (chevys) are unsafe becaue of T
shirts that say "friends don't let..."
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition follow-up |
The only time I get only 300 ft/min climb is when I am crusing at altitude
and keep my head in the cockpit to look at a chart for a min. :)
Something is wrong here - got 1,000 ft/min wiht 150hp RV-4 at about 1,600 lb
(I know I was over gross a bit) with a den alt of about 3,000 ft....
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 A1A vs C1C |
| From: | rvinfo(at)Juno.com (Dave Smith) |
Scott,
The IO-360 A series engines have the fuel injector mounted on the front
of the oil sump, whereas the C series engines have the fuel injector
mounted on the rear. Usually the oil sumps are interchangeable, so one
could be converted to the other.
Bruce Green
>
>CAN SOMEONE TELL ME THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN IO-360 A1A AND AN IO-360
>CIC? I HAVE A RV-6 THAT HAD AN AIA INSTALLED AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW
June 22, 1998 - June 29, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ex