RV-Archive.digest.vol-ez
July 04, 1998 - July 10, 1998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB-360 Filtered Airbox System |
Leslie,
I had the same challange with my 0-360, A4M. If you replace the bolt plug with
a
socket head type (uses a hex wrench and has no "head"), it will elimnate some of
the
fitting you'll have to do. However, for the casting ridges, I used 2 gaskets made
from
the baffle seal material to space out the plate.
Warren Bishop RV6 installing systems
North Platte, NE
Leslie B. Williams wrote:
>
> Trying to install the mounting plate for the FAB-360 on new 0-360A1A with
> Marvel type carb. I have made the cut-out to clear the drain plug casting
> on the bottom but there are casting ridges extending out on both sides
> across the back of the machined surface which keeps the plate from seating
> flush.
>
>
> Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MartyRV6A" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Alignment |
Hi Listeners: Today, this builder in Nashville TN, was fitting the
skeletons to the elevators and to the HS, to make sure the rod end bearings
would match and the Wd-405 control horns were all going to line up OK. I
have the pre-punched Empannage so there really isn't much room for error in
the spar assembly. What I discovered is that I have a 7/32 inch spacing
between the tip rib on the left elevator and the HS tip rib, but 9/32 inch
on the right elevator. Frank Justice's notes indicate that the gap should
be 1/8 to 1/4 inch. So the gap on the right is a tad too much. I think
I'll live with it, unless anyone knows if this will impact the flight
characteristics. I check the spar lengths to the drawings and they are
slightly long, about 1/16 inch, maybe should have done this sooner but I'm
not sure what I would have done anyway. I put one AN960-416 washer between
the HS center bearing and the control horn, which Frank mentions in his fit
up instructions. So I think the Right Elevator is just fine, just a tad too
much outboard gap. However on the Left Elevator, two washers will be
necessary and the fit up looks like it might be a tad loose ( I haven't
drilled the left horn yet, so this is just an preliminary fit up effort).
Another washer, about 0.010 inches thick or 1/2 half that of the AN960-416)
may be required. I would like to know if three such washers are OK or if I
need to look at an alternative.
I must say thanks to Frank and "Bunny" for their notes, they are very
helpfully and would recommend them to all first time builders, like me. I'm
slow, but there's no race to the finish when it comes to building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving and Nifty Stick On N Numbers |
Guys and Gals,
Just picked up my N numbers for my RV4 (hopefully soon to fly) from
Engraphics in Fargo. Terrific. Good work.
They also engraved my (and now some others) fuel caps with "100LL
16GAL FUEL". Cost me $20 for the engraving and Linda even painted into
depths of the CNC machined engraving (router-like) letters for good
contrast.
I recommend them highly. Quick turn around.
Engraved caps look so MUCH better than the ugly donut decals so often
seen around the filler hole on the fuel tank.
Call Linda at Engraphix in Fargo ND. Phone: (701) 237-6560.
Frank, RV4, N2ZK, flying soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | FAB-360 Filtered Airbox System |
Listers, I finally did find the info regarding this subject in the archives.
The new search engine really works good but trying to find this points out
the need to properly identify the subject matter in our posts and to be
pretty general in using search words.. The info on this was obtained by
searching on "carb" and the results contained none of the words in the
subject line above, but that's what the postings were about.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
<< Subj: RV-List: Ivoprops
(Snip)
I suspect that Avemco have an equal or larger list of their own, based
on their loss history that has led them to the decision to not insure
aircraft equipped with IVOs. This is not meant to imply that IVOs don't
work well in many applications, but a Lyc O-320/O-360 is pretty tough on
props, even wood props were included in Ben Owen's list.
(Snip)
Regards........Gary, ex Lancair 235 pilot, current RV-6 pilot
>>
Hi All,
Gary's editorial was very nicely written.
However, the original statement that Avemco is not insuring the "Velocity"
equipped with the Ivoprop prop is not the same as Gary's statement that Avemco
is not insuring "aircraft" equipped with the Ivoprop prop.
I believe a more correct statement may be that Avemco will not insure a
Vecolity with an IO-360 200hp engine and an Ivoprop prop.
This appears to be a result of the Velocity accident last year around
Thanksgiving. That Velocity had an IO-360 200 hp engine and an Ivoprop three
blade flight adjustable prop.
That accident was discussed on this list as an in-flight prop failure of the
Ivoprop prop.
As a reminder, there was an engine vibration problem at 10,000'. The aircraft
was vectored to an airport 11 miles away. The aircraft crashed 1 miles short
of the runway in a wooded area. Only two of the three blades were found at
the time of the report.
It is this kind of speculation that has been requested not to happen on this
list. It should apply whether it is a Velocity, or a RV-8.
I've been informed that the FAA did find the third blade of the Velocity
Ivoprop at the accident site.
I suppose it's possible that the blade was thrown 10 miles to the site of the
accident.
It's more likely that your current discussion about Avemco's new aircraft
maintenance statement is directly related to the Velocity accident.
Just my own speculation.
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LOM M332A engine and Ivoprop flight adjustable prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "m.hanson" <paintbox(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting...oh-no! |
I need help. Just beginning to rivet HS skins and 3/4 of the way through
the left side I slipped with the gun and made a dent... My question is,is
their anybody out their who has a technique to at least make this look a
little better? Yes it is the topside. Thankyou in advance for any advice.
Marc Hanson
paintbox@rconnect .com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Insurance (was Avemco Exclusions) |
I am not an expert on insurance by any means, but the last time I purchased
insurance (about five years ago), I found out that there is only about
three Insurance companies that offer true 1,000,000 policies. Many polices
do not cover more than 100,000 per person per accident, and that coverage
is cut in half if the injured person is your spouse and is cut to 1/4 if
that person is your child. I had my insurance with USAIG, and they would
pay up to 1M per accident without reductions dependent on the person
injured. I think one of the others was Fireman's Mutual? and I can't
remember the rest, but I don't think Avemco was one of them. Remember this
is five year old information, and things may have changed since then. All
I suggest is that you check your policy medical closely. I was quoted much
better rates from other companies, but when you read the coverage,
1,000,000 did not mean 1,000,000.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com> |
| Subject: | HS801PP Dimpling |
It is not possible to dimple the forward most hole in the center of the
HS801PP (HS skin) with the C-frame tool, is it? The Ornoff videos indicate
that they counter sunk instead. I had a hard time doing the second-to-last
hole. Is there another tool that is better to use in tight quarters for the
last hole? I see a "120 degree flush dimpling tool" in Aircraft Spruce's
catelog (P/N 17014). Is this what I need?
Cheers,
-Larry
Email: larry(at)bowen.com
Web: http://larry.bowen.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting...oh-no! |
Marc
Well join the club of first time builder/rivetters - Its not the end of the
world, the are diffrent fillers you can use, to hide the ding, but you will
not have to worry about it for some time, just prior to painting.
Keep your gun set to about 28 to 30 pounds, and you will get better & better.
I re built my Elevator & Rudder because I had a few dings, and got so much
better at rivetting that I just ordered the parts and re-built while waiting
for the wing kit to arrive.
I'm now closing the wings and waiting for the Fuselage to arrive.
Keep on rivetting.
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Closing Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting...oh-no! |
I wouldn't do anything until the whole aircraft is completed, then you
can fill it prior to painting. You will not be able to see it once it's
filled and painted. A local builder named Marty Cooke recommended a
product called "Metal Set" (215-822-2678) for filling dents. He says
it's lighter then bondo and sticks to aluminum better. It also won't
crack or craze. Shelf life is about 1 year. I have not used it yet.
Your best bet to avoid dents is to use a swivel set. If you put 1 layer
of 3M brand clear packing tape over the set, it will also eliminate the
"rash" you get from the set hitting the skin. This is purely cosmetic,
but it makes for a very professional look. It seems that the rashes
around the rivets are the first things that people notice on my HS.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
m.hanson wrote:
>
> I need help. Just beginning to rivet HS skins and 3/4 of the way through
> the left side I slipped with the gun and made a dent... My question is,is
> their anybody out their who has a technique to at least make this look a
> little better? Yes it is the topside. Thankyou in advance for any advice.
________________________________________________________________________________
Guys
Is there a place on the Internet where one can research a AD - I want to look
up an AD on my Main Gear Trunion on my Seneca, I just got a part quot for
$1,100.00 plus labor - ouch - Certified Aircraft -
Thanks
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Closing Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Gauge for altenator |
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Subject: Gauge for altenator
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 13:15:15 EDT
When using an altenator should you use a voltmeter, an ammeter or both. I
have heard you should use an ammeter. Is there any reason to have a voltmeter
in place of the ammeter or to use in conjunction with the ammeter.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS801PP Dimpling |
Don't try to get that last hole with the C-frame tool. It will fit in
there, but you will end up dinging your skin when you hit it. You can
countersink it, or you can get the pop rivet dimpling tool from Avery or
Cleveland. You will need the pop rivet dimpler on the control skins
anyway, so you may as well get it now. I think it was about $18.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> It is not possible to dimple the forward most hole in the center of the
> HS801PP (HS skin) with the C-frame tool, is it?
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Rush" <gerush(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS801PP Dimpling |
For dimpling in tight places you can get the Avery dimple dies that are
designed to be used with a pop rivet puller. It is uses a set of dies that
have a hole drill in the center and a small nail is inserted and pulled with
the pop rivet tool to make the dimple. Just give Avery a call. This tool
is worth a million bucks in my opinion.
Gary Rush
Carlsbad, Ca
RV8 finishing wings
gerush(at)earthlink.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowen.com>
Date: Saturday, July 04, 1998 9:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: HS801PP Dimpling
>
>It is not possible to dimple the forward most hole in the center of the
>HS801PP (HS skin) with the C-frame tool, is it? The Ornoff videos indicate
>that they counter sunk instead. I had a hard time doing the second-to-last
>hole. Is there another tool that is better to use in tight quarters for
the
>last hole? I see a "120 degree flush dimpling tool" in Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Aeroflash Strobes |
FYI from the Kitfox List.
A good summary of the Anti-Collision light requirements is on page 338
of the 97-98 Aircraft spruce catalog.
First of all. What the FAR's say takes precidence over what any of the
rest of us say including an individual at the FAA. When someone says
"100 effective candles is OK for your NEW Acft require that person to
specift the FAR that superceeds the one that required 400 effective
candles.
History:
100 effective candles was approved for aircraft where a type certificate
was applied for between April 1 1957 and Aug 10 1971.
400 effective candles has been required since Aug 11, 1971.
The angular candle requirements were changed on July 18 1977 but still
require 400 min at one angle.
FAR's that apply to Experimental aircraft.
91.205 (a), General requirement invokes Far 23.1401
91.205(b)(11), Day VFR
91.205 (c)(3), Night VFR
91.209 (b) Allows pilot to turn off if safety is a concern.
Basically you must have 400 effective candles min as defined in Far 23. They
must be
working at the time of flight and you can continue to a repair station
if one fails during that flight. The pilot can turn the lights off if
the pilot finds safety is a concern (this safety condition is not
defined). Otherwise they must be working and on during all flight times.
A special ferry permit would be required to initiate a flight with a
failed system (as is any flight with non working required equipment.
The Local FAA office knows of no approval to use 100 effective candled lights
on
experimental fixed wing aircraft.
We both would be interested on any official regulation changing this.
Getting your aircraft certified does not relieve you of the
responsibility of meeting all applicable regulations nor does the
inspector's approval mean he approves your non reg instellation (he does
not have the authority). We have a local builder that was approved with
three clear and specific violations of tne "N" number requirements. The
canadians were not happy when he tried to enter.
In conclusion I agree with you on the requirement for 400 effective candles
and commend
you for questioning the Aeroflash strobe sellers statements. If they are
correct they
should be able to produce an official document from the FAA stating the
exception to the above FAR's etc.
Paul Messinger
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melody French <mfrench(at)mail.datasys.net> |
| Subject: | cover on fuel tanks |
Listers
I was wondering if you pro seal the covers on the fuel
tanks how does one get them off at annunal time to check the fuel lines?
Or don't you have to worry about this.
thanks Bill in Valdosta
GA Fuel Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mheaps(at)direct.ca (mike heaps) |
Has any one installed their 1/4 plastic tube below the exit holes to conceal it
in the bottom of the hull instead of under upper longeron? Or would there
would be a problem with condensation? Any help would be appreciated.
Mike Heaps
RV 80280 (Finishing fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Archive search "Subjects" |
>
>Listers, I finally did find the info regarding this subject in the archives.
>The new search engine really works good but trying to find this points out
>the need to properly identify the subject matter in our posts and to be
>pretty general in using search words..
I agree Les, I have tried to search in the past without results,
when I am sure it was there somewhere. It would be great to use even as an
example "engine" for anything that bolts on or pertains to the engine. That
is awfully general, but it is better than what is going now. Some months
ago it was suggested by some else, but for the most part died. It sure
seems it would help on Matt's storage problems...
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 Fiberglass/systems
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Slider question |
[un] subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting...oh-no! |
<< Just beginning to rivet HS skins and 3/4 of the way through the left side I
slipped with the gun and made a dent... My question is,is their anybody out
their who has a technique to at least make this look a little better? >>
Mark
There are a couple of ways to correct dents in the skin. The simplest way,
providing the dent is faily small, the skin is not breached (cracked or torn),
and the substructure is not cracked or bent too badly, is to use a bit of
automotive style Bondo to fill it in, and press on.
The other way is a bit more difficult, and should be used if the skin is
breached. You cut out the portion of the skin that is dented, and fabricate a
skin patch such as is illustrated in the AC43-13 1A and 2A. This will tend to
be more noticeable than a bondo repair, but strength requirements will be
maintained.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 Kit
Memphis, Tennessee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
BSivori(at)aol.com wrote:
> Is there a place on the Internet where one can research a AD - I want to look
> up an AD on my Main Gear Trunion on my Seneca,
Try this web site'
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Manuf.html
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS801PP Dimpling |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> It is not possible to dimple the forward most hole in the center of the
> HS801PP (HS skin) with the C-frame tool, is it? The Ornoff videos indicate
> that they counter sunk instead. I had a hard time doing the second-to-last
> hole. Is there another tool that is better to use in tight quarters for the
> last hole? I see a "120 degree flush dimpling tool" in Aircraft Spruce's
> catelog (P/N 17014). Is this what I need?
>
> Cheers,
>
> -Larry
> Email: larry(at)bowen.com
> Web: http://larry.bowen.com
>
>
Larry,
Try a pop-rivit dimpling tool from Avery's. These work great for tight
quarters.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuselage Skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Hold down....? |
b.wa.us>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>What methods are being employed to hold the battery down? Just in the
>battery box does not keep terminals from contacting the top of the box
>during any possible negative g's.
>
>Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q finishing canopy, Seattle area.
When an all-around box is used on certified ships, the
lid is fitted with a spacer block, usually maple or
phenolic that just touches the top of the battery with
the lid installed . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Microsystems URL? |
Does Vision Microsystems (Engine Monitors) have a web page? The yellow
pages does not list one.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Working on Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOMMY E. WALKER" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting...oh-no! |
-----Original Message-----
From: m.hanson <paintbox(at)rconnect.com>
Date: Saturday, July 04, 1998 11:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting...oh-no!
>
I slipped with the gun and made a dent... >
>
>Marc Hanson
>paintbox@rconnect .com
>
>Marc, I can't believe you slipped and made a "dent"! Bummer! Your RV will
probably be the only one in the whole world with a "dent! Seriously, don't
worry about it . Believe me THERE WILL BE OTHERS before your finished.
Welcome to the REAL world of RV building. I have to confess that I have at
least one dent too! Build on my friend!
Tommy
Ridgetop, Tennessee
RV-6A (closing wings)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting...oh-no! |
Depending on how bad the ding is you may want to consider eventually replacing
the skin--it is hard to say without viewing the damage myself. One poster
mentioned that his skills improved so greatly that he eventually went back and
rebuilt his rudder and stab---in any case treat these first parts as a
learning process. When I go to fly-ins I always get down and look at the
underside of the horozontal stab--a rare one indeed I do not see a couple of
dings because this is the first piece you get to test your skills on. I
suggest you forge ahead and if when you have a lot of riveting exp. behind you
--you look back at that dent and just cannot stand it you will be better
prepared to make a decision. One thing--it is okay to use Bondo I suppose---
but do not develop a dependence on it. If the dent is on the bottom you may be
able to work it out using body shop tech--hammer and a dolly--enough that it
will be acceptable for a place no one but you and me will ever see. Get you a
1 1/4 flush set, a large rubber cushioned set and maybe one of those swivel
sets everyone raves about. To keep from slipping I rest my fingers actually
grasping the edges of the flush set to keep it from slipping and
bouncing--essentially I am using my fingers like the rubber cushion on the
swivel set. Ouch! Your fingers are very sensitive and will sense a
misalighnment of the gun/skin--practice on some scrap--buck up--I am sure it
is not so bad. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Exclusions |
> > The Avemco limit of liability is $1,000,000 per occurrence, $100,000
> > per
> > PERSON. The AOPA limit of liability is $1,000,000 per occurrence,
> > $100,000
> > per PASSENGER. This is not an insignificant difference (especially to
> > anyone
> > injured who wasn't your passenger).
> >
>
> What am I missing here? If you injure someone on the ground with your
> plane ,then Avemco will pay up to $100,000 per person. If you have the
> same accident with AOPA insurance then your coverage is nill as the
> person was not your Passenger. Isn't the Avemco coverage broader with
> the per PERSON coverage??
This is the explanation I got, as I understood it: With Avemco, if your passenger
is hurt, they pay up to the per-person limit ($100k typical). If a person on the
ground is hurt, they still pay up to the per-person limit.
With Sky Smith ( the only other one I checked), there is a per-PASSENGER limit,
but the limit for a non-passenger is the POLICY limit ($1m typical). No
difference for the passenger, but major difference otherwise. If I misunderstood,
someone please let me know. Otherwise I'm about to change to Sky Smith.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Archive Search - New Feature! |
Listers,
I've added another new output feature to the Archive Search Engine. There
are now 3 ways to return hit data. These include:
2 Frame, Indexed (NEW):
This output option will split the browser window into
2 frames. The upper frame will contain the usual search
engine controls. The lower frame will contain an index
listing of all matching subject lines.
The first time a subject line is clicked upon, a new
browser window will be opened and the message text displayed.
Subsequent subject line clicks will return message text in
the same new output broswer window.
3 Frame, Indexed:
This output option will split the browser window into
3 frames. The upper frame will contain the usual search
engine controls. The middle frame will contain an index
listing of all matching subject lines.
When subject lines in the middle frame are clicked upon, the
corresponding message text will be displayed in the lower
frame.
All Msgs, No Indexes:
This output option will split the browser window into
2 framess. The lower frame will contain all of the matching
messages.
If the subject line one any one of the matching messages
is clicked upon, a new browser window will be opened and
that particular message displayed for easy printing or
saving.
Don't forget that the size ratio between the frames can be user-adjusted by
simply click and draging on the frame border!
The Search Engine URL is: http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
Give it a try and let me know what you think.
Have Fun,
Matt Dralle
RV and Zenith List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Hold down....? |
Bob N......On 07/02/98 10:14:28 you wrote:
> When an all-around box is used on certified ships, the
> lid is fitted with a spacer block, usually maple or
> phenolic that just touches the top of the battery with
> the lid installed . .
You have mentioned that if we were using RG batteries, there is no need for
a box. I am concidering using two RG batteries of different sizes. Do you
have any suggestions as to location and specifics of how to secure them
without a box?
Thanks,
Ross Mickey..finishing kit...Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Sanding fiberglass |
Happy Fourth!!!! Well folks, I searched the archives and didn't find an
answer so here I am. What is the best way to:
1: Sand the gel coat off of the fiberglass parts and
2: Sand the fiberglass smooth before painting.
I was thinking about searching the internet for glass plane builders because
they sould have this stuff down. I have a belt sander, a 6" circular
attachment for my drill and a 3X5 vibrating sander. I am worried about
gouging with the disk (it does a good job of taking the gel off), the
vibrating sander is tooooooo slow and I haven't tried the belt yet. I am
wondering about one of those palm type reciprocating sanders either air or
electric powered. I am sure I will have to do some by hand.
Thanks,
Ross Mickey, Finishing kit, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Weight & Balance |
Is there a book on the subject of "weight & balance" that "says it all"?? I
am interested in knowing approximately how much weight will be felt, and on
which wheels, when moved to certain locations, particularly forward. I would
like to create several Empty Weight CGs for the RV6A to see how they would
work out, particularly in the "burning off fuel while carrying baggage"
category. I am not interested in re-designing the airplane, but I am
considering the possibility of using a C/S Prop. I have heard the term
"Improved CG" used when referring to RV's with C/S Prop. Any information that
anyone can offer, on or off list, would be appreciated.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Static System |
<< Has any one installed their 1/4 plastic tube below the exit holes to
conceal it
in the bottom of the hull instead of under upper longeron? Or would there
would be a problem with condensation? >>
Yes. The static ports should be the lowest point in the system. There should
be no liquid traps.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding fiberglass |
<< What is the best way to:
1: Sand the gel coat off of the fiberglass parts and
2: Sand the fiberglass smooth before painting.
I am wondering about one of those palm type reciprocating sanders either air
or
electric powered.>>
This is what I used. I bought a Porter Cable "jitterbug" sander from
McMaster-Carr that works really well. Also I have found that drywall sanding
sponges (they are available in different grits) work well for curved surfaces.
Some sandpapers are self stick and are great for bonding to short lengths of
various diametered PVC pipe for sanding inside curves and the like.
<< I am sure I will have to do some by hand. >>
You betcha.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna splitters |
Or swims away from the sinking airplane !! Trouble is Peter, I don't think
they have the option of using the portable ELT as we do in Oz. Maybe they
can install a fixed one for legal reasons and carry one of the new GME 310
portables for practicle reasons ! They only weigh 5.5 ounces and fit in
your shirt pocket. You can bet it will help a lot more if you take a swim
than the one that just went down with your airplane ! Brian in Albany, West
Oz.
----------
> From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna splitters
> Date: Sunday, June 28, 1998 3:21 AM
>
>
>
> > even though the pattern is not ideal. Also, from some of the stuff
> > that I've read, the chances of the ELT being of any value in a crash
> > are pretty small.
> >
> > Bob Skinner RV-6 415 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
> > (Heading to Longmont, Sat.)
>
>
> The ELT of value is the portable one carried on the person of the
> survivor. He can activate it as he crawls away from the fire.
>
> Peter Bennett
> Sydney Australia
> RV6 doing cowls
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | King KLX-135A vs ??? |
I have a KLX-135A in my rv-6 and it has perfomed flawlessly. On the COM
side I've never had any trouble being heard. The GPS side has worked
flawlessly too.
The comparable Barmin unit came out about a month after I bought the KLX-135A.
Advantages of the Garmin over the King:
1. The Garmin's map is MUCH bigger. The day/night feature looks pretty
cool too.
2. The Garmin has a serial air data input. This is significant if you are
planning to install the RMI uEncoder. The uEncoder has a serial air data
output. That makes E6B and Wind Calculations a lot easier.
The only disadvantage *I* see in the Garmin is that it uses a single set of
knobs for both GPS and COM functions. The King has two sets: A set on the
left for the COMM and a set on the right for the GPS. That keeps idiots
like me from changing com frequencies when we really wanted to didle the GPS.
I have not actually spent any time in front of the Garmin, but if I could
convince myself that the single set of knobs would not cause me grief, and
if I had it to do over again, I would probably buy the Garmin.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Clevis Bolts |
How tight do you make the clevis bolts that attach the rudder pedal pivots
and the master cylinders to the rudder pedals?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | YBoulais1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: King KLX-135A vs ??? |
I tried both. What I like about the Garmin is that they insert the
intersection, not in the Klx135a. Not a big deal if you intend to fly VFR but
very meaningful if you want to use it as a back up for IFR.
Yves
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: flight report with numbers |
I had the same problem with the bowl vent. Most bowls have the vent
drilled straight down from the top and exiting at a tangent through the
flared entry to the carby throat (bottom of throat). But a few have a hole
bored at right angles to the throat just above the flared entry and the
hole bored from the top exits into this. This model seem to need a much
richer jet, I think due to increased vacuum in the bowl due to the vent
position. Facet make a conversion ,airating jet to overcome what they call
hesitation in the engine, I tried this but it did not help. The problem
was worst on cold, moist days (high air density when mixture needs to be
richer). The mixture was just too lean even at full rich. I changed the
bowl to the" vent bored straight through variety" and this fixed the
problem straight away, even though I used the original jets out of the
other bowl. Brian
----------
>
> Don't know if this will help or not. A friend with an RV4 experienced
> problems at cruise speeds in which he could not lean the eng much.
> Seems there are carbs with the float bowl vents in different positions
> in the carb bore, in relation to the throttle plate. At the speeds rvs
fly,
> the ram air pressure can pressurize the float bowl and work against
> fuel pressure there. Anyway he was able to find a carb with the float
> bowl vent on the eng side of the throttle plate and that fixed his
problem.
> RV273sb Co.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ring Gear & Support for 0360-A4M |
Listers -
About a week ago I asked if any one had a ring gear & support for my 0360 A4M
Lycoming. I have not heard too much from the list. I hope that this is not going
to be
a real tough part to find. The part number that I need is -
SUPPORT ASSEMBLY - LW16064
RING GEAR -
72566
If anybody has a lead on these two parts I would sure appreciate hearing about
it OFF
the list. My new FP metal prop is on it's way and it will be tough to install
it
without a support assembly.
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Doug Murray - RV-6 Bolting on a prop soon - I HOPE
403-653-2087 Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS801PP Dimpling |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>It is not possible to dimple the forward most hole in the center of
>the
>HS801PP (HS skin) with the C-frame tool, is it? The Ornoff videos
>indicate
>that they counter sunk instead. I had a hard time doing the
>second-to-last
>hole. Is there another tool that is better to use in tight quarters
>for the last hole.
You can use the pop rivet dimple dies as already mentioned but I
personally don't like to use them because I don't think they make nearly
as quality of a dimple (no flames please just my opinion)
but a lower quality dimple is better than no dimple at all.
Those tight spot holes can be done with the C-frame tool but you should
not attempt it without a helper.
A nice modification that you can do to the C-frame tool to help in these
situations is to cut the side legs of the extrusion at the front near the
set holder, at a 45 deg angle. Then you can let it hang over the edge of
your work table slightly, and with the tool now reduced in depth right at
the point where the sets go it will allow you to get it into tighter
areas without interferences.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
se a
CH48108 (instead of the CH48110 that is usually used).
The standard Lycoming filter adapter has a built in by pass valve which
can open if the filter begins to become clogged or restricted for some
reason.
You no longer have this installed, so by using the CH48108 you regain
this function because it has a by-pass valve built in to it.
BTW if you use a remote filter you still need something in place of the
filter adapter so that the vernatherm can be installed. The easy way to
do that is to use a screen adapter and just leave out the screen. The
screen housing will contain the vernatherm and the port for your oil temp
sensor.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight & Balance |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I
>am interested in knowing approximately how much weight will be felt,
>and on
>which wheels, when moved to certain locations, particularly forward.
This is actually just doing basic weight and balance calculations just as
you do when computing the weight and balance before a flight in any
airplane except that you are doing it for items that aren't normally with
in your control to move or change.
As long as you have a given configuration that you know the total weight
and C.G position for you can do this.
The first thing you need to do is determine the arm position from the
datum of the item you wish to move. Use the arm value multiplied times
its weight and you have the moment. subtract the items weight and moment
from the airplanes empty weight and moment and you have a new weight and
balance with the item removed. Now ad the items weight and moment for
the new position that you want to try installing it at and you have the
new airplane C.G. position with the item in it's different location.
Figuring the weight change on each landing gear tire is more difficult
and not really that important for what you are trying to achieve I think.
This sounds complicated written down but I bet if you got out the weight
and balance stuff for an airplane that you are familiar with and used
that with the weight and balance for in your RV construction manual I'm
sure you can see the what it is you need to do.
I am not interested in re-designing the airplane, but I am
>considering the possibility of using a C/S Prop. I have heard the
>term
>"Improved CG" used when referring to RV's with C/S Prop.
>
>
>
Improved C.G. is usually referring to having more latitude with loading
than with a wood prop.
As an example Many RV-6's have an empty C.G. which falls right around 70
to 71 inches aft of datum. This is just about right in the middle of the
allowable C.G. range. Everything that you load in the airplane except
fuel moves the C.G position farther aft (which is way you always do
weight and balance calculations of running to minimum fuel because this
causes the C.G. to move aft even farther).
With a constant speed prop bolted on the front the empty C.G. is way to
the front end of the C.G. range (some RV's it is even out of the FWD
limit until a minimum size pilot of say 100 lbs gets in the seat if the
tanks are full). This means that you have much more latitude for weight
of pilot/passenger and the baggage that you carry without it casing you
to exceed the aft C.G. limit (while staying within gross weight limits of
course).
The down side to this (Just my personal opinion here, other opinions may
very) is that having an empty C.G. way at the front of the range takes
away somewhat from the sporty control feel of an RV. The reason is that
when flying lighter(such as at aerobatic gross weight or less) the C.G.
is still quite Fwd. and the control feel isn't the same as it is when at
mid range or slightly farther aft as in a wood prop RV. I notice this
because I have flown quite a number of different RV's in different
configurations. The constant speed RV's also feel a little heavier on
the elevator in the flair and require more effort to make good full stall
full stick back landings (again,my opinion).
But after saying all of this my next RV will most probably have a
constant speed prop on it because of the many other advantages that it
has over a fixed pitch wood prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Clevis Bolts |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>How tight do you make the clevis bolts that attach the rudder pedal
>pivots
>and the master cylinders to the rudder pedals?
>
>Jim Cimino
>
>
>
Jim,
These are pivot points (hence the reason for clevis bolts and cottered
castle nuts)
They need to be left just loose enough to allow a slight clearance for
the pivot action. This can usually be done with just fingers (no
wrenches) and than install the cotter pin>
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Gleixner <agleix(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank - RV8 |
I just finished installing the aileron bellcrank on my RV8 main spar and noticed
it is difficult to move (considerable effort required with one finger). I noticed
that the bellcrank rotates around the brass bushing (versus the bushing
rotating around the bolt) and was wondering if this is correct. If so, should
lubrication be added between the brass bushing and steel aileron bellcrank to
make movement easier? Thanks in advance.
Aaron Gleixner
RV8 - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Weight & Balance (& spins) |
<< I have heard the term
"Improved CG" used when referring to RV's with C/S Prop. Any information
that
anyone can offer, on or off list, would be appreciated. >>
Hi Jim & Others,
I have an IO-320 with a C/S prop on my -6a. My empty weight & balance is
1078 lbs & 68.65" aft of spinner tip. My aircraft is not painted, but does
have the wheel pants/fairings installed. My POH is written for Utility
cagegory of 1600 lbs, and Normal category of 1800 lbs, gross weight. Another
post by Scott Mcdaniels just about sums up my handling performance. I've found
that with full fuel and just me (165 lbs) I don't have any problem flaring,
but it's almost impossible to hold the nose gear off while coasting down the
runway. During my gross wt and aft cg flight tests, I loaded 200 lbs of sand
to simulate a passenger. Then I could hold that nose gear off on the roll out
for quite a way down the runway! I then loaded up another 100 lbs of sand in
the baggage compartment with only 8 gallons of gas. This put my cg at 76.06"
just about 3/4" forward of the aft limit. Whoa, felt like a whole different
airplane. VERY sensitive in pitch. I found it was very easy to get pilot
induced oscillations. It was also difficult to get it to hold a trim setting.
Any upset in trim would just keep on diverging. In cruise up at 6000', a
slight aft pull on the stick and release would result in the pitch attitude to
start increasing, all the way up to an almost stall. Nosing over had the same
effect, only it kept nosing over and heading straight for VNE! I also noticed
how much faster it picked up speed at these increased weights. I then landed
and topped off the fuel tanks. This put me at 1776 lbs and a cg of 75.45".
Then I went up for some cruise and stall work to see what effect the increased
weight had on stall & cruise speeds. No flap stall speed went from 55 IAS to
62 IAS. Cruise at 8000', 75% power (22" map, 2600 rpm) went from 180 CAS to
177 CAS. All speeds are in statute mph.
So, as you can see, the C/S prop allows me to load myself, a 220 lb
passenger, and 100 lbs of baggage at minimum (5 gallons) of fuel and still be
forward of the aft limit, with a G limit of 3.3 in the Normal category.
Last week I did some spin testing. With me and just 22 gallons of fuel I
climbed up to 10,000'. Slow deceleration to stall, then full right rudder. It
broke sharp to the right, after about 1 1/2 turns it felt like it smoothed
out. At 3 turns I neutralized the controls, and it kept on going. I only let
it go for another turn, and then began to apply left rudder. At about 1/2 of
rudder deflection, the spin broke and I recovered from the dive. It really
picks up speed here, and the C/S prop makes a good brake. I can imagine that a
fixed pitch prop would really get going fast. I wound up at 8500' at the
bottom of the pull out, and climbed up for another one. To the left was
different. The first one I tried I couldn't get to spin. The second attempt I
had to stall from a steeper nose up attitude in order to get it to break
better, and it still took almost 3 rotations for it to start spinning on its
own. I can only describe it as a feeling of it "smoothing out". After holding
full controls for about 2 more rotations, I neutralized 'em and the spin
stopped right away. Some observations: it feels like the nose is pointed
straight down in the spins, the rotations are veeeerrrry fast, the attitude
indicator doesn't like spins. After I leveled off, it was showing a 90 degree
roll to the left with a 20 degree nose down attitude. After about 30 minutes
of flying it had almost straightened itself out. I guess that's why they make
the cageable models!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Gauge for altenator |
<< From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Return-path:
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Gauge for altenator
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 13:15:15 EDT
When using an altenator should you use a voltmeter, an ammeter or both. I
have heard you should use an ammeter. Is there any reason to have a
voltmeter
in place of the ammeter or to use in conjunction with the ammeter.
Carey Mills >>
A voltmeter tells you if the alternator is working.
13.5 to 14.0 volts, the alternator is on.
12.5 volts, or less, the alternator is off.
One of the inexpensive limited range volt meters works great for this. With
the 10 to 16 volt scale, and the scale markings, it tells at a glance if the
alternator is operating.
Jim Ayers
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Least Drag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank - RV8 |
>I just finished installing the aileron bellcrank on my RV8 main spar
and noticed it is difficult to move (considerable effort required with
one finger). I noticed that the bellcrank rotates around the brass
bushing (versus the bushing rotating around the bolt) and was wondering
if this is correct. If so, should lubrication be added between the
brass bushing and steel aileron bellcrank to make movement easier?
Thanks in advance.
>
>Aaron Gleixner
>RV8 - Wings
Aaron,
The steel bellcrank needs to be reamed out to allow for a smooth,
non-binding fit of the brass bushing. You are correct in that the
bushing is tightly clamped in place by the tightened bolt, and the
bellcrank pivots about it. Once the reaming is done, I found no need for
lubrication...although I'll do so if it's recommended by someone more
experienced in this area.
You'll probably notice some distortion around the welds in the steel
tube, which is normal. This is where the binding occurs the most. I
padded the jaws of my bench vise with a rag, clamped the bellcrank into
it, and ran a drill bit through it with somewhat circular motion on the
drill motor and it reamed out enough metal to allow for the bushing to
slip right through. Oh, I used some cutting oil on the bit to keep it
cool. I don't recall exactly what size bit I used, but a standard Black
and Decker high speed drill set has the one you need. When all else
fails, get out the micrometer.
Best of luck to ya,
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
waiting on the fuselage
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | boos1(at)ix.netcom.com |
How do I subscribe to this list?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight report with numbers |
<<
I had the same problem with the bowl vent. Most bowls have the vent
drilled straight down from the top and exiting at a tangent through the
flared entry to the carby throat (bottom of throat). But a few have a hole
bored at right angles to the throat just above the flared entry and the
hole bored from the top exits into this. This model seem to need a much
richer jet, I think due to increased vacuum in the bowl due to the vent
position. Facet make a conversion ,airating jet to overcome what they call
hesitation in the engine, I tried this but it did not help. The problem
was worst on cold, moist days (high air density when mixture needs to be
richer). The mixture was just too lean even at full rich. I changed the
bowl to the" vent bored straight through variety" and this fixed the
problem straight away, even though I used the original jets out of the
other bowl. Brian
>>
My mechanic looked up the carb that Van sells with his new O-320's: 10-5217,
and compared the parts list to my recycled Cessna O-320-E2D carb, the
10-5135(I think that's right.) The only difference was the upper half of the
carb body, which would of course contain the vent in question. Hence it is
not really the jet which is wrong (assuming no one has lean mix problems with
Van's new engines) but the jet may well be the cheapest, easiest fix. I will
find out tomorrow when I reassemble the carb with the jet drilled to #37 and
go flying. I could have done this 3 days ago but the gaskets and locking
washers didn't arrive on time, and my mechanic talked me out of reusing the
old ones. Hey, Gary- you did the drill thing on your jet four times in one
morning; did you use new gaskets each time?? I thought not! ;-)
Bill Boyd
RV-6A western VA -,13 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Fergerson <72032.431(at)compuserve.com> |
Please remove me from the RV-List. ( UNSUBSCRIBE )
Thanks,
KF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Aeroflash Strobes |
<< In conclusion I agree with you on the requirement for 400 effective candles
and commend you for questioning the Aeroflash strobe sellers statements. If
they are
correct they should be able to produce an official document from the FAA
stating the exception to the above FAR's etc. >>
Gary,
Since you posted this, was this a reply for a post you might have sent to
the KFOX list? After reading it, I get the impression that someone is
questioning the average candela output of the Aeroflash strobes. Is this so?
I'm curious myself what the mfg. claims, and what someone with a certified
tester has measured. I know the tester I use at work testing the strobes on
Airbus A-300 & 310 aircraft shows them to usually put out over 1200 candella
when the strobes are freshly overhauled. I've wondered just how much the
Aeroflash strobes would test at. They seem pretty bright, but then my eyeballs
aren't calibrated!
Mark LaBoyteaux
N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Transportation to Arlington... |
...for 2 boys (ages 12 and 14)
Hello RV-Listers planning to go to Arlington. I'm Randy Simpson, planning
to fly my single seat Carrera Ultralight to Arlington this year (weather
permitting, of course). The ground transportation that I'd hoped for the 2
boys fell through, and I need to find an alternative way to get them to
Arlington from Vancouver WA. I'm planning on leaving from Sandy River
Airport Thursday morning with 3 other ultralights. We'll arrive at Arlington
Thursday afternoon, and stay there till Sunday morning. If there is anyone
who's planning to drive up there to Arlington with room for 2 nice boys, and
wouldn't mind taking them up there for me, I'd REALLY appreciate it. There's
a nice set of my "Ti-downs" in it for you, if we can work something out.
They'll need a ride back as well.
If you think you can/and are willing to help out, please send me a reply
ASAP. Thanks
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
p.s. I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing all the RV's/meeting the
owners/builders/ and going for a ride in an RV this year while at Arlington.
I'll be camped in the Ultralight area again this year. White with orange
stripes Carrera
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Elevator Travel |
RE: RV-6 Elevator Travel
I recall reading somewhere in the instructions how to deal with the
elevator control horns hitting the rear stabilizer spar flange. I can't
seem to locate this reference in the instructions. Please refresh my
memory on where to look.
Thank you
Glenn Gordon
glenng(at)megsinet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Lumberyard Travels |
"Are you from Cairo, Sir " ?
"No".
"South Africa perhaps" ?
"Nooo".
"But you are certainly English, is that not so Effendi" ?
These questions were put to me by the shipper at the lumberyard while I
bought wood for my RV.
"But what did I say to make you think I was so "?
"Because the way you speak, your manner, you are polite also ."
"This wood, for the aeroplane ? and can you fly at night and how do you
find your way " ?
" We find our way by the heavens, by wonderful voices and signals to guide
us".
"Ahhh, just as we do in the Western Desert." "We look to the stars, the
heavens. A man can wander the sea of sand and come upon his own tracks if
he is not prepared, Effendi ".
This went on for a time and as I left, I could not help but be in
wonder once again as I recall what wonderful experiences and snapshots of
life and people my RV brought me even before she was born ! The expression
of a sea of sand made me think of a passage I read once of an aviator who
was flying over the sea and he thought an engine failure here was
unthinkable. Why, I was not prepared for the sea !
Thankfully, our RVs and engines inspire greater faith also.
This first season of fly-ins has thus far been another part of the
reward an RV can bring to you. Meeting like -minded people and looking at
other RVs (and others), smelling the smells, seeing the colors, and talking
the endless talk of airplanes, building, and people. What a great bunch.
What great therapy. How can you not come home with a smile after a day of
all this, this other type of heaven, RV and airplane heaven ?...Sorry to
dump this nostalgia and reverie on you, but I fear that I am an addict, an
RV addict. But if that be so, it can't be all bad because there is no such
thing as an overdose of this particular affliction.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting...oh-no! |
marc,
when i built my emp, i was lucky enough not to ding it. but at the sun n fun
i noticed a bunch of rv's that you couldn't see any rivits on the airplane. I
found That using Evercoat Feather Fill & primer are very light weight fillers
and primers. I acheived satisfactory results once sanded and painted, no
rivits here !!
keep banging
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sanding fiberglass |
Ross,
try a die grinder with course scotch brite pad, worked great for me
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding fiberglass |
>Happy Fourth!!!! Well folks, I searched the archives and didn't find
an
>answer so here I am. What is the best way to:
>
>1: Sand the gel coat off of the fiberglass parts and
>Thanks,
>
>Ross Mickey, Finishing kit, Oregon
Ross,
I found my Dremel Moto Tool to be fabulous for grinding off the gelcoat
around the edge of the parts, where the glass cloth and resin overlays
during final installation. The little drum sander attachment cuts just
the right width and takes only a minute or so at high speed. It's not a
terribly expensive tool (maybe $80), and works wonders! This tool pays
for itself many times over.
Have fun!
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
awaiting the fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "'Vejita' S. Cousin" <scousin(at)u.washington.edu> |
Hello, I'm considering buying a RV6a kit at the start of 1999. I am a
ful time student (ie. just above poor). I know you much get this a
thousand times but what is the total cost:
Tools
Bare minium avionics/instruments
paint/seat
TEST FLIGHT
misc. engine parts because it's actually cost
etc.
ESP the cost of tools, as I do not currently own any ^_^
Thanks in Advance
Sydney
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lumberyard Travels |
> This first season of fly-ins has thus far been another part of the
>reward an RV can bring to you.
Oh, it is *wonderful*, isn't it.
I was out flying yesterday morning and happened upon a group of nice soft
fluffy clouds. First of all, you have to understand, clouds are rare and
wondrous things here in Arizona (Except in the late summer, when they tower
to the troposphere). It was hot and sunny, but under the clouds it was
nice and cool and shady. I decided to spend some time in that shade, so I
flew in circles for a while, drifting along with the clouds. I remarked to
myself, "I'll bet this is why the birds do this too".
It's pure magic, isn't it?
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass parts attachment hint |
Greetings listers,
I've found a terrific product to use for attaching the aluminum
reinforcement strips to the fiberglass parts: SHOE GOO. No, I'm not
kidding! This stuff has been packaged under a different name and been in
wide use in the RC model industry for years. I used it to attach glass
and plastic parts in my giant scale machines and even with the severe
vibration imposed by the engines I use, I NEVER had a part come off.
The stuff is like extra thick RTV, and flows out almost like Proseal
after application. No special preparation of the parts is required, but
a scuffing and cleaning is a good idea. This stuff is incredibly
tenacious, and survives heat, fuel, vibration, tension..anything you can
throw at it. It can be taken off...and won't destroy the part it's
attached to. You have to pull on it....all the way across the room..but
it will come off if you really want it to!
If you're hesitant to glop some dime store sneaker repair glue on your
prized RV parts, I understand. Just try it first with scrap
material..and you'll see!
Hope this helps.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
awaiting the fuselage
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Aeroflash Strobes |
<< << In conclusion I agree with you on the requirement for 400 effective
candles
and commend you for questioning the Aeroflash strobe sellers statements. If
they are
correct they should be able to produce an official document from the FAA
stating the exception to the above FAR's etc. >>
Since you posted this, was this a reply for a post you might have sent to
the KFOX list?>>>>
This was an answer to the Kitfox List controversy about using 100 effective
candle strobes (Aeroflash). I posted it here only because someone might want
the info if they were thinking of putting them in an RV and because Mark
(Check Six!) sells them (presumably for daytime use).
<< After reading it, I get the impression that someone is
questioning the average candela output of the Aeroflash strobes. Is this
so?>>
Yes. This has been an ongoing debate on the Kitfox List regarding the claimed
100 effective candle output of the Aeroflash units and the FAR requirement for
400 effective candles (check the write-up in the ACS catalog for the full
details). The cheap guys really want these but don't understand the
limitations or legality.
For me it is not an issue as I already have the Whelen 400 effective candle
units, so that I can legally fly at night. It is an FAA requirement listed in
my experimental airworthiness certification limitations to have FAR legal
lighting for night flight.
<< I'm curious myself what the mfg. claims, and what someone with a certified
tester has measured. I know the tester I use at work testing the strobes on
Airbus A-300 & 310 aircraft shows them to usually put out over 1200 candella
when the strobes are freshly overhauled.>>
Aeroflash claims 100 effective candles, but can we get some of these Airbus
bad boys surplus for our RVs? Great smoldering retinas, Batman!
<< I've wondered just how much the
Aeroflash strobes would test at. They seem pretty bright, but then my
eyeballs
aren't calibrated! >>
Apparently this is the problem. Alot of people are throwing around much Bravo
Sierra (manufacturers, distributers and users) regarding specs and FARs and
there seems to be no universal agreement as to what is legal. I don't know
whether the eye can really tell the 400 candle units from the 100 candle
units, but I wanted to be legal and safe.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv4mike" <rv4mike(at)access1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question |
> Hello, I'm considering buying a RV6a kit at the start of 1999. I am a
>ful time student (ie. just above poor). I know you much get this a
>thousand times but what is the total cost:
>
> Tools
> Bare minium avionics/instruments
> paint/seat
> TEST FLIGHT
> misc. engine parts because it's actually cost
> etc.
>
>ESP the cost of tools, as I do not currently own any ^_^
>
> Thanks in Advance
> Sydney
I set my goal for a RV4 at $25,000 . I came up with a flying plane just
short of that amount. (basic radios, no paint , used engine). My totals
today are just shy of $30,000. That includes all shipping, tools, misc.
items, paint, seats, everything. Best bang for the buck!!! A Kitfox will
cost about the same.
$
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
I am going to put a sliding canopy on my other -4. I was wondering what
others did about a roll bar when they used the slider on their -4? Does the
windshield frame suffice for a roll bar? I should wait until I get the
plans, but am curious what options I have. Thanks. Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
> >thousand times but what is the total cost:
> I set my goal for a RV4 at $25,000 . I came up with a flying plane
Just a word of caution - if you are a builder outside of the USA, it is a
LOT more expensive. My -8 empennage kit cost NZ$3200 landed here in New
Zealand. I appreciate that is only US$1600, but in terms of hours worked for
$$ earned, it's equivalent to an American paying US$3200. Tools here can
also as much as three or four times the cost they will in the States (I saw
a Unibit for $180 yesterday!). You can bring a lot of these costs down
through with some careful thought and planning, and buy small tools
directly out of the States.
[rant mode ON]
Of course, you have to be prepared to repeatedly ask the tool companies
concerned into actually *send* your order up to four weeks after placing it;
not to mention the time it takes to get to NZ after it manages to actually
get out the damn door ; yes, I am talking about the ABC's, not the ASS's
[rant mode OFF].
Pretty much everything you need, kit, tools, paint, engines, instruments and
propellors will be sourced out of the USA. So all that freight has to be
paid for somewhere, somehow. I fully expect that my -8 will cost the better
part of $80,000, if not more. It will still be more than worth it!
Chris Hinch
#80630
Dunedin, New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
I have a "modified" Garmin GPS III Pilot in my panel, which I panel
mounted by taking apart the unit (it splits into front and rear halves),
and cutting a hole in the panel that the unit fits in. The unit is
reassembled with the panel sandwiched between the two halves. Volia!
Panel mount GPS for < $650. I mounted it on the top of the radio stack,
which is off to the right. My problem is that under some light
conditions it is hard to see the LCD display at an angle. I could live
with it being that way if I had a CDI. My question is, for the Bob
Nuckolls types, would it be very difficult to design a circuit using
something like a MAC trim indicator for a CDI? I have seen some CDI's
that were somewhat pricey for what they were.
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
RV-6, installing cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
Scott, 10gs, but at what airframe weight? the 1650lbs or some other, ie
aerobatic weight. From the manual I take the 6 to be stressed to +6g and
-3g design (+9-4.5 ultimate) BUT only at 1375 pounds weight. As the 6A has
the same wing one must assume it's aerobatic weight would be the same as
the 6 as it's wheels are still inboard of the wing root. We must adopt the
practice of stating the weight at any time we refer to G loading, as G
loading means nothing unless you know the gross weight it is referenced to.
I imagine the 8 is the same. ie the 9gs the test wing failed at was at an
aerobatic weight not the max gross weight.
Thanks for you continued, valuable input, Brian
> The RV-6(A) wing that we tested (it was one of the very early quick build
> wings that workmanship was not quite what we wanted to sell so we broke
> it instead) since the time I came to work at Van's,
> broke at just slightly over 10 G's.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are my own
> and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
> of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question |
<< Tools>>
approx $2000 incl compressor if you borrow some of the seldom used ones.
<< Bare minium avionics/instruments>>
approx $5000
<< paint/seat>>
no paint, $50 lawn chair cushions from Walmart
<< TEST FLIGHTs>>
With 40 hrs (assuming you go with woody prop) fuel at 8gph at $2.00/gal = $640
plus two oil changes at about $30 ea.
<< misc. engine parts because it's actually cost >>
about $10K for an engine is the cheapest unless you really fall into a great
deal. Add about $2000 for other incidentals.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | IO-360-A1A, brand new, for sale |
It's brand new, 10 years old. Even the original pallette, $21,000. Was
purchased for an RV-8 project that we've already outgrown. Also for sale, an
RV-8 tail kit, barely started, for a little less than I paid for it. I'm near
San Jose, CA. Ed Wischmeyer, edwisch(at)pacbell.net. 408 732-9832
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Nice RV-4 for sale |
An earlier RV-4, but with the heavy duty firewall brackets, reinforced flap
handle, all those good things. Also include full gyros, GPS, and KX-155 with
glideslope. Engine is 160 HP O-320-B3B, set up for constant speed prop. Well
maintained, currently receiving new wheel pants and fairings. Realistically
priced at $38,000. Near San Jose, CA. Ed Wischmeyer, edwisch(at)pacbell.net, 408 732-9832.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: flight report with numbers |
Bill, the vent in question is in the bowl, at the very bottom of the bowl
next to the airfilter mounting plate gasket. At the same level as where the
accelerator pump tube exits the bowl but 100 degrees further around the
throat. In the problem bowl it's about 3/8 of an inch higher in the
throat, meaning the air flows past it at right angles. My guess is this
tangental airflow caused a partial vacuum in the bowl leading to leaner
mixtures. Hope this is clearer, Brian
The only difference was the upper half of the
> carb body, which would of course contain the vent in question. Hence it
is
> not really the jet which is wrong (assuming no one has lean mix problems
with
> Van's new engines) but the jet may well be the cheapest, easiest fix. I
will
> find out tomorrow when I reassemble the carb with the jet drilled to #37
and
> go flying. I could have done this 3 days ago but the gaskets and locking
> washers didn't arrive on time, and my mechanic talked me out of reusing
the
> old ones. Hey, Gary- you did the drill thing on your jet four times in
one
> morning; did you use new gaskets each time?? I thought not! ;-)
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A western VA -,13 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass parts attachment hint |
>
>Greetings listers,
>
>I've found a terrific product to use for attaching the aluminum
>reinforcement strips to the fiberglass parts: SHOE GOO. No, I'm not
>kidding!-------snip-----...
I agree with Brian 100%...Just tonight I was noticing how well the trim I
attached on my plane with SHOE GOO about a month ago has held. I even tugged
on it tonight just to see how well it was holding. Rock solid...This trim
was allways coming loose while the previous owner had it. The stuff is
almost invisible also.
Randy Simpson
RV-6 owner wanna be
Brownsville, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Aeroflash Strobes |
<< I plan to build my RV-4 to be IFR certified. Is Whelen's info included in
the
Yeller Pages? >>
You bet. Download a copy for phone reference or click on their website.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Lycoming fixed pitch conversion |
Listers less ignorant than I,
If I perforated the rear blanking plug in the crankshaft and replaced
the front plug as I should, but left the governor oil line attached,
a) would this pump oil through the crankshaft, thus preventing the
corrosion pitting problem, and
b) where would the oil go when it passed through the rear plug?
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question |
<< Tools
Bare minium avionics/instruments
paint/seat
TEST FLIGHT
misc. engine parts because it's actually cost
etc.
>>
Sydney,
There seems to be a number of about 30K that people have settled on, for a
bare bones RV - however that does not leave much room for mistakes.
Keep in mind that the Kit from Van's is the cheap part of the project -
Engiine Prop
and Avionics are the real cost items.
Good Luck
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV (Reserved )
Closing Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederick IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com> |
Andy,
I too have the same play in the trim tab. With 1120 hrs of
operation, I haven't had any flutter problems.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com [SMTP:winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 03, 1998 10:47 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: loose trim tab
>
>
> An inspection of the trim tab mechanism on my 6A by a fellow RVer
> pointed out an item that may be of concern.
>
> There is movement in the trim tab control system which allows the tab
> to
> move freely up and down about 1/16" in each direction.
>
> The inspector said this also occurs on his plane too, and a quick
> inspection of the 3 other RVs on my field revealed that this is a
> common
> feature.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederick IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com> |
| Subject: | 0-320 carburetor |
Jim,
Since the second flight in my RV, I've had a engine "stumble" that
has turned out to be a carb bowl vent problem. It seems that as the
inlet ram pressure increases beyond the engine suction pressure, a
combination of air box turbulence and bowl venting on my particular 10-#
carb causes a problem with the fuel flow out of the float bowl into the
carb. Changing the carb to another 10-# body type, and different bowl
venting, solves the problem. But since the "stumble" is a defined and
very brief occurrence, I am still running the original carb. The problem
seems to be more definitive in warmer weather. Maybe this has something
to do with the air density.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
>-----Original Message-----
>From: JimNolan [SMTP:JimNolan(at)kconline.com]
>Sent: Friday, July 03, 1998 10:21 PM
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: 0-320 carburetor
>
>
>Listers,
> I have a problem with my carburetor. The carb stumbles ( loses about 100
>rpm)
>at @ 1400rpm. It then picks up and goes on smoothly. I call Consolidated and
>they are sending me a new one. The guy at Consolidated was nice and wanted
>me to try leaning it before I advanced the throttle. With the engine leaned I
>don't
>get the stumble. Trouble is when I have to do a go-round I don't want to be
>fooling with the mixture at the same time. The idle adjust is right. @ 25-50
>rpm increase right before in shuts down when I pull the mixture slowly all
>the way
>off.
> Has anyone else had this problem and what did you do to fix it. The guy
>at Consolidated said the idle circuit ended at 1100 rpm. So fooling with the
>idle adjust seems fruitless to me.
>
>Jim Nolan
>N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
I apparently overlooked the need for a cotter pin hole in the axle of
the main gear on my Rv-6A. I presume that after torquing the nut to the
recommended 50 ft/lbs and then unscrewing the nut and retorquing to
approx 10 ft/lbs that I then need to drill a hole throught each axle at
the spot the cotter pin hole in the nut alines with. Seeing as I have
the gear installed, anyone have any recommendations about how to drill
this hole in the harden steel of the axle?. I know that doing it in a
drill press would be best, but since that appears to be impractical (I
really don't want to take the gear rod off the airframe any other
suggestions would be appreciated. I could try a hand drill with a
carbide bit, but am concerned about how to ensure that it comes out the
other side of the axle lined up with the opposite hole in the nut.
I presume it is necessary to cotter pin the axle nut for safety of
flight. Anyone have the same problem - your solution??
Thanks
Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW
anderson_ed(at)bah.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hill <hill(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question |
I just started this year in about the same position (no tools, little
money). I prefer to look at the starting cost... just start building... and
figure the rest out as you go.
For tools I spent about 2k... this included a compressor, Avery aircraft
tools, and the other tools needed to build jigs (circular saw, saber saw,
sander, etc.)
Then the tail kit for 1500.
About another 500 in lights, tool chest, and building of a work bench.
All in all plan on spending about 4k to get started.
RV-8... working on VS
>
> Hello, I'm considering buying a RV6a kit at the start of 1999. I am a
>ful time student (ie. just above poor). I know you much get this a
>thousand times but what is the total cost:
>
> Tools
> Bare minium avionics/instruments
> paint/seat
> TEST FLIGHT
> misc. engine parts because it's actually cost
> etc.
>
>ESP the cost of tools, as I do not currently own any ^_^
>
> Thanks in Advance
> Sydney
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Use of Aeroflash Strobes- candlepower... |
<< In conclusion I agree with you on the requirement for 400 effective
candles
and commend you for questioning the Aeroflash strobe sellers statements. If
they are
correct they should be able to produce an official document from the FAA
stating the exception to the above FAR's etc. >> >>
Listers:
The Aeroflash strobe system *is* FAA approved, and is standard equipment on
many factory a/c. The double flash system puts out two 10 joule flashes, for a
20 joule total. Candlepower? I recall the Whelen Cometflash as being 1 flash @
10 joules, followed by three @ 3 joules. Uh.......1 joule is 100,000
candlepower (!!), so we are talking way more than 400 CP. Could it be that
somebody has the decimal point in the wrong place...or one brand of strobe is
measured differently than the other (sort of like prop pitch).
Have a look at "Aeroflash.com" for further questions, but rest assured- these
systems are legal. The #0049DF 12V three light system (both sides, with power
supplies, nav/strobe/position wingtip style) sells for $420, with a two year
warranty. Email me or Cleaveland Tool off-list for orders.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Exclusions |
In a message dated 7/3/98 4:23:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com writes:
> Gary, which company do you have insuring your RV-6?
AIG through our office (Aon Aviation) in Wichita, KS. Aviation Insurance for
experimental aircraft is a very limited market.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 0-320 carburetor |
In a message dated 7/3/98 10:35:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JimNolan(at)kconline.com writes:
> I have a problem with my carburetor. The carb stumbles ( loses about 100
rpm)
> at @ 1400rpm. It then picks up and goes on smoothly. I call Consolidated
and
> they are sending me a new one.
Mine stumbles at 1320 rpm. How do I get my free carb!?
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
>>I could try a hand drill with a
>>carbide bit, but am concerned about how to ensure that it
comes out the
>>other side of the axle lined up with the opposite hole in the
nut.
Why not drill from both sides? Just mark both sides and drill from each
side to the hollow center.
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Aeroflash Strobes- candlepower... |
>The Aeroflash strobe system *is* FAA approved, and is standard equipment on
>many factory a/c.
. . . . certified before the 400CP rule went into effect
and grandfathered to the present time. . .
> . . . The double flash system puts out two 10 joule flashes, for a
>20 joule total.
Can't add them up this way . . . it's measured one flash at a
time . . .
> . . . Candlepower? I recall the Whelen Cometflash as being 1 flash @
>10 joules, followed by three @ 3 joules. Uh.......1 joule is 100,000
>candlepower (!!), so we are talking way more than 400 CP. Could it be that
>somebody has the decimal point in the wrong place...or one brand of strobe is
>measured differently than the other (sort of like prop pitch).
Problem is that joules is a measure of electrical energy dumped
into the flash tube, while CP is the energy you get OUT of the
system in the form of light. The 400CP value cited in the FARS
are measured in a single direction while strobe manufacturers
like to quote "spherical" candlepower . . . the total light emitted
in all directions from the tube. There are ways to use a photographer's
light meter in the flash reading mode to quantify energy in any
one direction. Spherical CP has to be measured in special laboratory
equipment (you guessed it, a hollow sphere painted with a white paint
of known reflectivity and a bevy of sensors).
>Have a look at "Aeroflash.com" for further questions, but rest assured- these
>systems are legal. The #0049DF 12V three light system (both sides, with power
>supplies, nav/strobe/position wingtip style) sells for $420, with a two year
>warranty. Email me or Cleaveland Tool off-list for orders.
I've looked at this site and it contains no data with respect to the
physics I've just described. It has an impressive list of applicabilities
to certified aircraft . . . but no serial numbers or years quoted.
It also speaks to Non-PMA'd products for ultralights and experimental
aircraft.
One can infer lots of things from this information but if you're really
concerned with following the rules with the interpretation-of-the-day,
you'd better do whatever the locals in your district want you to do.
Keith Peshak and Bill Bainbridge can go on for hours about their
experiences with their friendly feds.
If Aeroflash really does have the blessing of our guardian angels
in D.C., they should be able to produce FAA documentation that
backs it up.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Hold down....? |
>You have mentioned that if we were using RG batteries, there is no need for
>a box. I am concidering using two RG batteries of different sizes. Do you
>have any suggestions as to location and specifics of how to secure them
>without a box?
Sure. First, why different sized batteries. Are you contemplating
(1) all electric gyros or (2) electric dependent engine? When
your needing batteries to be the absolute last stand between
you and DPS (dark panel syndrom), dual batteries are an excellent
way to get there. By the way, if you're doing all electric gyros,
consider putting a B&C SD-8 or SD-20 alternator on the vacuum
pump pad (See past Sport Av. for article on Dean Hall's RV-4 -
dual but dissimilar electrical systems.
Making the batteries identical in size makes life a little easier
when it comes to mounting . . . they sit in simpler tray and are
easier to hold down when they're the same height. Have you
seen the pieces on our website concerning battery system architecture?
In an RV where the battery is low against the back side
of the firwall, crash safety issues are much milder. The
MAJOR crash force vectors are aft and up. There's little
need to put 10 g's worth of restraint for the other directions.
Check in your local camping and outdoor equipment stores
for 1" nylon webbing with glass filled nylon snap-buckles
and tensioning clamps.
These have tensile strengths well over 100 pounds. A couple of
these could be used to hold a pair of batteries down in a
tray. They'd be easy to tighten and release for maintenance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Elevator Travel |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>RE: RV-6 Elevator Travel
>
>I recall reading somewhere in the instructions how to deal with the
>elevator control horns hitting the rear stabilizer spar flange. I can't
>seem to locate this reference in the instructions. Please refresh my
>memory on where to look.
>
I don't believe that is anywhere in the instructions. You have to trim
the spar flange. A scary thing not to mention in the building
instructions.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Fitting Flaps to Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
Thanks, Gary,
The sound you hear is my palm slapping my forehead as in "why didn't I think
of that!"
Ed
Fesenbek, Gary wrote:
>
>
>
> Why not drill from both sides? Just mark both sides and drill from each
> side to the hollow center.
>
> *************************************************
> * Gary Fesenbek
> *
> * Meridium Inc.
> *
> * (540) 344-9205 x112
> *
> * gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
> *
> * http://www.meridium.com
> *
> *************************************************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)bigskytel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
Hi Ed. I drilled mine while it was on the airplane also. It's very easy
with a hand drill. I think I even used a regular drill bit with cutting
oil. The leg is hardened, but it is hollow, so you only have to drill
through the "edges". Once the nut is in place, run the drill through the
top and bottom hole lightly to mark the leg top and bottom. Then remove
the nut, drill through the top of the leg, then through the bottom at your
marks. Just keep the bit reasonably straight and the holes will line up
fine.
Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy@bigskytel.com - http://www.bigskytel.com/~ebundy/
> I could try a hand drill with a
> carbide bit, but am concerned about how to ensure that it comes out the
> other side of the axle lined up with the opposite hole in the nut.
> I presume it is necessary to cotter pin the axle nut for safety of
> flight. Anyone have the same problem - your solution??
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
<< I presume that after torquing the nut to the
recommended 50 ft/lbs and then unscrewing the nut and retorquing to
approx 10 ft/lbs that I then need to drill a hole throught each axle at
the spot the cotter pin hole in the nut alines with. Seeing as I have
the gear installed, anyone have any recommendations about how to drill
this hole in the harden steel of the axle? >>
It's been a while since I've done this...After setting the nut up like you
mention, try marking the hole with a few seconds of drilling with a 12" #30
bit. Remove the wheel, re-install the nut, (you'll see where you have marked
the hole) and proceed with drilling, using a high grade #30 bit. You may want
to drill another hole a bit off in either direction from the first (1/2 flat
of the nut, or 1/12 of a turn, or 30 deg) while you're at it. This will allow
for adjustment in the future.
After building the rest of the airframe, I'll bet you can drill that hole
pretty straight!
Check six!
Mark
HR2 265 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | alternator pulleys |
I'd like to put a larger pulley on my alternator to slow it down some. I
currently have a 3" pulley on an Autolite alternator. I called Autolite
who said that they never made alternators even though their name is
stamped on the casing. (Isn't minimum wage wonderful)
Can anybody help me locate someplace where I can purchase a larger
pulley?
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS801PP Dimpling |
Hi Larry:
One tool that I have found very helpful is a vise grip dimpling tool that
Avery's sells. It's basically what the name says....a vise grip that has
had its snout ground down and a thin dimple set welded to it. It doesn't
give you as sharp a dimple, but it is a dimple. It will work really well
for you once you get to your control surfaces.
Another gizmo that I used was a pop rivet dimple set again from Avery's
and no, I do not work for them!) It is essentiallty a dimple set with a
hole through the center of it that a nail slides through. Then you stick
this in your pop riveter and use that to dimple. I used this to dimple
about three rivets for the rear spar on the left elevator...the one that the
trim tab hinges on (sorry, too lazy to look up the part). Again, it does
not give you as sharp a dimple, but it is better than nothing.
Hope this helps you out. Have fun with your project. Is this the greatest,
or what!!!???
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Waiting on my wings, suffering from riveting withdrawl
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Saturday, July 04, 1998 12:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS801PP Dimpling
>
>
>It is not possible to dimple the forward most hole in the center of the
>HS801PP (HS skin) with the C-frame tool, is it? The Ornoff videos indicate
>that they counter sunk instead. I had a hard time doing the second-to-last
>hole. Is there another tool that is better to use in tight quarters for
the
>last hole? I see a "120 degree flush dimpling tool" in Aircraft Spruce's
>catelog (P/N 17014). Is this what I need?
>
>Cheers,
>
>-Larry
>Email: larry(at)bowen.com
>Web: http://larry.bowen.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cocker <JCocker(at)Ibm.Net> |
We completed a 6,000 trip, 27 flying hours, from Toronto via Winnipeg to
Vancouver. Next down the West coast, past San Francisco to Los Angeles,
inland to Las Vegas and Grand Canyon, and back home.
Thanks to those on the rv-list who offered help and gave advice.
I have the story of the trip as a file which I can send to anyone who would
like the full story. Email me off the list.
John Cocker. RV 6A 190 hours
Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avemco Exclusions |
> What you say about passengers versus persons is inconsistent with what you
> say about the two companies' coverages. If AOPA has the better coverage,
don't
> you mean that they insure persons rather than passengers?
No, the Avemco policy limits the limit of liability to $100,000 per person
regardless if they are a passenger or a person injured on the ground. The
AOPA policy provides a full $1,000,000 to injured parties who are not your
passengers.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulleys |
>I'd like to put a larger pulley on my alternator to slow it down some. I
>currently have a 3" pulley on an Autolite alternator. I called Autolite
>who said that they never made alternators even though their name is
>stamped on the casing. (Isn't minimum wage wonderful)
>
>Can anybody help me locate someplace where I can purchase a larger
>pulley?
Why would you want to do this? Alternators thrive at high speed
provided they are well balanced. Slowing them down reduces cooling
from any built in fans and it reduces the output avaialable at
taxi RPMs . . .
B&C has sold about 2,000 ND alterntors for use on Lycomings and
left the stock (tiny) pulley on. Instead, he makes sure the
rotors are carefully balanced. The return rate on these machines
is ZERO . . .
Are you having trouble with your current arrangement?
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Transportation to Arlington... |
Randy,
I would give them a ride if I was lucky enough to live on that side of the
world!
How was the mother of all trips? I trust it was a safe journey. I was out
of touch for a while since my computer crashed but I have everything up and
running again. Hope all is well with you, Always good to hear from you, Al
>
>...for 2 boys (ages 12 and 14)
> Hello RV-Listers planning to go to Arlington. I'm Randy Simpson, planning
>to fly my single seat Carrera Ultralight to Arlington this year (weather
>permitting, of course). The ground transportation that I'd hoped for the 2
>boys fell through, and I need to find an alternative way to get them to
>Arlington from Vancouver WA. I'm planning on leaving from Sandy River
>Airport Thursday morning with 3 other ultralights. We'll arrive at Arlington
>Thursday afternoon, and stay there till Sunday morning. If there is anyone
>who's planning to drive up there to Arlington with room for 2 nice boys, and
>wouldn't mind taking them up there for me, I'd REALLY appreciate it. There's
>a nice set of my "Ti-downs" in it for you, if we can work something out.
>They'll need a ride back as well.
> If you think you can/and are willing to help out, please send me a reply
>ASAP. Thanks
>Sincerely,
>Randy Simpson
>
>p.s. I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing all the RV's/meeting the
>owners/builders/ and going for a ride in an RV this year while at Arlington.
>I'll be camped in the Ultralight area again this year. White with orange
>stripes Carrera
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Hold down....? |
Bob,
>Sure. First, why different sized batteries.
I am looking at different size batteries for redundancy and the savings of
a bit of weight.
> Are you contemplating (1) all electric gyros
Yes.
>or (2) electric dependent engine?
Sort of. I plan on electronic ignition but with a mag backup
>By the way, if you're doing all electric gyros,
> consider putting a B&C SD-8 or SD-20 alternator on the vacuum
> pump pad (See past Sport Av. for article on Dean Hall's RV-4 -
> dual but dissimilar electrical systems.
I will look at these
> Have you seen the pieces on our website concerning battery system
architecture?
Yes.
> In an RV where the battery is low against the back side
> of the firwall, crash safety issues are much milder. The
> MAJOR crash force vectors are aft and up.
So, you would keep the batteries in their traditional location? The only
problem I may have is I am planning on a 180 hp, constant speed on my 6A
which may push the cg forward. A fellow who just got done with this
configuration placed his battery behind the passenger seat. Bad place for
the passenger in a crash without the battery box.
Thanks for your input and I love the AreoConnection.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
Thanks, Ed
After drilling throught the main gear for the wheel assembly, I was not
looking forward to this task, I had forgotten that the axle is hollow, so your
suggestion should work just fine.
Ed Anderson
Ed Bundy wrote:
>
> . Just keep the bit reasonably straight and the holes will line up
> fine.
>
> Ed Bundy RV6A - Eagle, ID - first flight 11/20/96
> ebundy@bigskytel.com - http://www.bigskytel.com/~ebundy/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
Thanks, Mark,
Good suggestion about drilling another hole for adjustment - might as well
while I am at it.
Ed
> drill another hole a bit off in either direction from the first (1/2 flat
> of the nut, or 1/12 of a turn, or 30 deg) while you're at it. This will allow
> for adjustment in the future.
>
> After building the rest of the airframe, I'll bet you can drill that hole
> pretty straight!
>
> Check six!
> Mark
> HR2 265 hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: HS801PP Dimpling |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>It is not possible to dimple the forward most hole in the center of the
>HS801PP (HS skin) with the C-frame tool, is it? The Ornoff videos indicate
>that they counter sunk instead. I had a hard time doing the second-to-last
I was able to get those last holes with the help a friend who could hold
the skin back enough for me to get the dimple in and hold it flat against
the mold. We used the standard C-frame Avery unit.
It _is_ possible. Make sure you have it flat on the mold piece, though.
I didn't on one hole and now have a ding to fill, fortunately on the
bottom :{( .
- Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6, Closing HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | HS801PP Dimpling |
>>Again, it does
>>not give you as sharp a dimple, but it is better than nothing.
Someone from our EAA chapter showed me that when using the pop rivet
dimple dies, afterwards go back with your deburring tool and clean them
up a bit, the set rivets will look a lot better.
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360-A1A, brand new, for sale |
Ed, I am interested in the RV8 kit.
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote Oil Filter |
Here is what I found in the archive:
From:
"Jerry Isler"
Subject:
Re: RV-List: Rt Angle Oil Filter Adapter
Date:
Feb 05, 1998
The filter relocation kits as shown in the Summit Racing catalog include an
adapter
(with inlet and outlet hose connections) that screws on to the engine where
the oil filter would normally be. It also includes a remote filter mount
that has ears on it for bolting to the firewall (or where ever you desire)
and has the corresponding inlet and outlet hose connections. Hoses connect
the two together. It appears that this set up would operate no different
than the stock system as far as bypassing the oil filter when it is clogged
or when the oil is cold as long as the correct filter is used. On engines
that do not have an oil filter your only option might be to connect into
the oil cooler lines. This would sure be cheaper than buying the oil filter
conversion kit that allows you to install a spin on oil filter. As far as
only filtering when the oil is hot, wouldn't this be better than not having
any filter at all? The cost is about $35.00 vs nearly $400.00 for the
filter
conversion kit.
Summit part number SUM-G4985 for a single filter (dual filters available)
Summit Racing 216-630-0200
Jerry Isler
RV4 #1070
----------
Scott McDaniels wrote:
> Date: Tuesday, February 03, 1998 12:50 AM
> Do what I and a lot of other builders have done.
>
> Get a remote spin on filter bracket from the performance automotive store
> and plum it in series with the oil cooler using hoses.
> If you look at the oil circuit diagram in the Lyc. overhaul man. in
> conjunction with looking at an accessory case and normally supplied spin
> on adapter you will see that the path that the oil takes is the same as
> if you plumb them in series with each other.
> You still use you screen housing so that you still have the function of
> the vernatherm but you remove the screen from it.
> The other thing that is a good idea is to use a CH48108 filter instead of
> the normal CH48110.
> The CH48108 has a bypass valve built in to replace the one that is built
> in to the normal spin on adapter (which now you wouldn't have).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360-A1A, brand new, for sale |
Charles Woodson
510-643-6614
\
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Chernich" <Ron_Chernich(at)clmt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
>top and bottom hole lightly to mark the leg top and bottom. Then remove
>the nut, drill through the top of the leg, then through the bottom at your
>marks. Just keep the bit reasonably straight and the holes will line up
>fine.
Would drilling fore/aft achieve the same result with less contortions?
Ron Chernich (Portland, OR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-320 carburetor |
Ive had the same problem with my 0360A1A since new, stumbles when throttle is advanced.
Never quit or caused a problem.
Stucklen, Frederick IFC wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> Since the second flight in my RV, I've had a engine "stumble" that
> has turned out to be a carb bowl vent problem. It seems that as the
> inlet ram pressure increases beyond the engine suction pressure, a
> combination of air box turbulence and bowl venting on my particular 10-#
> carb causes a problem with the fuel flow out of the float bowl into the
> carb. Changing the carb to another 10-# body type, and different bowl
> venting, solves the problem. But since the "stumble" is a defined and
> very brief occurrence, I am still running the original carb. The problem
> seems to be more definitive in warmer weather. Maybe this has something
> to do with the air density.
>
> Fred Stucklen
> N925RV RV-6A
> E. Windsor, Ct
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360-A1A, brand new, for sale |
Ed, I am 99% sure I want it.
Planning on next Thursday.
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Slider question |
I would avoid cutting out the stiffening rings in the f-6105 sub-panel.
There's a good chance you'll end up having to cut out areas for radios,
instruments, wiring runs, etc. later on, and if these intersect the
lightenting holes then it might weaken the bulkhead unnecessarily.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
> I have the gear installed, anyone have any recommendations about how to drill
> this hole in the harden steel of the axle?.
>
Use a 12" drill bit (to get passed the tire & rim) in your hand drill and LOTS
of
cutting oil. Drill one side and put an AN 470 - 4 rivet in the hole. Drill the
other side. Remove the rivet and install the cotter pin. The holes should be
drilled on the horizontal plane ( no pun intended) . It worked for me. It took
about 5 minutes per side.
Hope this helps.
DGM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
Thanks, Douglas for the suggestion about the 12" drill
Ed
Douglas G. Murray wrote:
> The holes should be
> drilled on the horizontal plane ( no pun intended) . It worked for me. It
took
> about 5 minutes per side.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> DGM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Release Document, My Final Thoughts? |
For the persons who have said that we, as citizens of this country, cannot
"sign" away our rights, or take away the rights of others (our heirs,
etc.), you are correct. As lovely as our tort courts are, this has been
shown to be mostly true.
________________________________________________________________________________
have been, three common practices in limiting your liability as the seller
of an experimental aircraft: (1) trying to "pad" the transaction through a
legal written document by trying to establish perceived limited or
forfeited liability of the seller to the buyer, or (2) scrapping the
aircraft (the so called "chain saw" method), parting it out, cutting it up,
etc., and/or selling it as aircraft parts, and (3) is a combination of both
the paper trail and the parting out.
On an earlier thread, someone had mentioned to take the wings off the bird
and have the buyer take it to an A&P and have them sign it off after it was
sold. This would work I guess, but I wouldn't want my name in the books as
an A&P for an aircraft that was sold in pieces and was unfamiliar to me?
This does spread the liability a bit thinner to the A&P and the new owner,
but you are still the builder, therefore, I still see your name on the
lawsuit!
________________________________________________________________________________
course), the best thing to do to limit your PERSONAL liability (that I can
make an educated guess at) is a combination of all of the above, but with
an added stipulation. This additional stipulation will be frowned at by
some because it does very little to increase the selling value of your
aircraft, but does much in the way of helping limit your liabilities and
protecting your love ones and your estate. If you surrender your
aircraft's airworthiness certification/certificate and also your
repairman's certificate (if applicable) back to the FAA, your aircraft is
no longer an airworthy aircraft, or generally speaking - technically not
even an aircraft anymore, thus you have essentially done all that you can
do to protect your liabilities. I don't know of any other/better way (&
neither does the FAA inspector) of your complete acknowledgement of the
fact that your aircraft is deemed unairworthy to you-the seller-and thus
transferring the liability to the buyer. If the buyer has to assemble the
aircraft (if you took any parts/pieces off), have it re-inspected, submit
all the paperwork to the FAA, go through the 40 hours of flight testing
establishing the performance characteristics and airworthiness of that
aircraft, then you have shifted about as much liability as you possibly can
in protecting yourself if you want to sell your aircraft (or, now so called
airparts etc.).
The down side is that this process will eliminate many prospective buyers.
. . but, if a person is not willing to flight test an aircraft that they
are unfamiliar with, and uncertain of it's construction, etc., and they
refuse to accept that as a pre-condition of a sale (if they know that the
"airparts" had once flown). . . then it's probably better off anyway! What
better way to characterize an aircraft and it's capabilities (and the
pilot's), than through a thorough flight test program! Sell to someone you
know, sell to someone that understands the reasoning behind the actions,
and/or cut it up, or keep it and enjoy (if it's an RV-anyway!).
That's my $.02 (more like $.05!) anyway. I have a copy of a experimental
aircraft sales agreement provided to me when I purchased my Midget Mustang
plans that is fairly good. Also, I have an agreement that the seller of my
RV-3 project made up (drafted by his lawyer. . .how good is it or his
lawyer . . ???) for me when I purchase my project from him if anyone is
interested. I would have done a little more than the seller did, but since
it is a project and not a completed aircraft (and since it is his
liability, not mine) . . .? Several people have asked for the documents,
and I am in the process of getting them out, if anyone else is interested.
. .contact me off list.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated. My researching may be inaccurate or
even out dated, if so, I'd love to hear it (good or bad). :-)
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (starting spar mods)
Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Chernich" <Ron_Chernich(at)clmt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Elevator Travel |
>
>RE: RV-6 Elevator Travel
>
>I recall reading somewhere in the instructions how to deal with the
>elevator control horns hitting the rear stabilizer spar flange. I can't
>seem to locate this reference in the instructions. Please refresh my
>memory on where to look.
>
Section 6 of the RV-8 instructions (p 6-14) says:
".. It will be necessary to remove the bottom flange of HS-603 to allow the
elevator horns enought swing. DO NOT remove any of the HS-409PP bar!"
Think it's safe to apply these words of wisdom to the 6 as well (parts are
common to the -6 and -4, after all)
Ron Chernich (Portland, OR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-320 carburetor |
> Mine stumbles at 1320 rpm. How do I get my free carb!?
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Gary Corde,
The man's name at Consolidated is Randy Knutson. If your carb is still under
warranty I'm sure they'll make it good.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 canopy tack rivets and procedure |
I'm ready to start riveting my canopy to the frame but have a few concerns.
The manual says to put several rivets in to `hold' the canopy against the
base tubing ( spaced 8-12 in), and then the side skins can be fitted and
riveted on. I have these thoughts on the procedure.
- if the tack rivets are put 'in between' the side skin rivets and left in,
how do I clean up the holes after drilling all the remaining rivets. Do they
drill out easily and can you get the rivet out of the hole..? Do the holes
need to be chamfered ...?? Van's " don't have an opinion on this".....???
I believe that they should be chamfered and that the holes should be
slightly larger then the rivet diameter.....is this right,which brings me
back to the original problem, are these rivets easy to get out without worry
of cracking the acrylic.
If anyone could give me information on what you did (procedure) and how it
worked out I would certainly appreciate it.
- I couldn't find any pertinent info in the archives.....lots on 'canopy'
but not specific enough.
Marc DeGirolamo
Rv-4.....not wanting to s...w up the big expensive plastic thing
mdee(at)dlcwest.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
>
>Thanks, Gary,
> The sound you hear is my palm slapping my forehead as in "why didn't I
think
>of that!"
>Ed
At last !, the the answer to the age old question..........."What is the
sound of one hand clapping?"
You just never know the things to be learned on the RV list, do ya? :-)
>
jim RV6-eh tanks
* When dreams come true the sky's the limit *
jjewell(at)okanagan.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity Stick Grips |
I bought two of them for my RV-6A and like them very much. The trigger
is the PTT, silver toggle is the electric flaps, Green button is the
boost pump, Black is the electric trim emergency disconnect, Blue is the
freq switcher between tower and ground, and the coolie hat is the roll
and pitch electric trim.
Rick Fogerson, 50 hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing [mailto:rv8er(at)doitnow.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 1998 10:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick Grips
Has anyone used the military style Infinity grips? It seems that these
should provide any switches or controls needed.....for those of you that
have not seen these, they are at the following:
http://www.flash.net/~infaero/infgrip.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
Thinkin' bout engine and panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Release Document, My Final Thoughts? |
reece(at)rt66.com wrote:
> Any feedback is greatly appreciated. My researching may be
> inaccurate or
> even out dated, if so, I'd love to hear it (good or bad). :-)
It is my perception (perhaps wrong?) that Americans are more litigious
than the rest of us. Therefore you might want to consider selling your
aircraft to a non-American for export. Whilst this limits your market
and perhaps therefore your selling price, it may reduce the
probability of lawsuits.
Similarly, if you sell your aircraft outside the USA (eg in Canada),
American laws won't apply (I guess). Maybe in Canada you *can* sign
away your rights and/or those of your heirs? It's my perception
(again, perhaps wrongly) that American courts tend to award much
larger damages than in other countries. So, any lawsuit would require
Canadian lawyers, and would probably bring in much less money. The
added complexity (ie expense) and probably small returns might
dissuade many would-be suers. The downside is that you'd need a good
Canadian lawyer to draft the sale agreement.
Just my .02c worth,
Frank
(not a lawyer or Canadian)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJKKS502(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which Wood Prop? |
Paul,
Paul Irlbeck in Minnesota. Ad in Sport Aviation classifieds under propellers.
Middle of the road price wise, good workmanship, good over the phone, and
delivered on time.
Don Simmons RV-4 N144DN
Redding, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulleys |
> I'd like to put a larger pulley on my alternator to slow it down some. I
> currently have a 3" pulley on an Autolite alternator. I called Autolite
Mark Landoll in Oklahoma city sells lightweight alternators, starters, etc. & has
large dia. pulleys that might fit yours. He runs ads in S.A. every month.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question |
>
>
><< Tools>>
>
>approx $2000 incl compressor if you borrow some of the seldom used ones.
>
><< Bare minium avionics/instruments>>
>
>approx $5000
>
><< paint/seat>>
>
>no paint, $50 lawn chair cushions from Walmart
>
><< TEST FLIGHTs>>
>
>With 40 hrs (assuming you go with woody prop) fuel at 8gph at $2.00/gal
$640
>plus two oil changes at about $30 ea.
>
><< misc. engine parts because it's actually cost >>
>
> about $10K for an engine is the cheapest unless you really fall into a great
>deal. Add about $2000 for other incidentals.
>
>-GV
Used engines in Australia are expensive! You will be hard put to find a 320
with 500 hours to run for less than the Van's price on a lycoming (once off
original equipment manufacturer's deal Van's has done with Lycoming). Work
weekends to buy that new Lyc!
Leo Davies
Sydney
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
>
>I apparently overlooked the need for a cotter pin hole in the axle of
>the main gear on my Rv-6A. I presume that after torquing the nut to the
>recommended 50 ft/lbs and then unscrewing the nut and retorquing to
>approx 10 ft/lbs that I then need to drill a hole throught each axle at
>the spot the cotter pin hole in the nut alines with. Seeing as I have
>the gear installed, anyone have any recommendations about how to drill
>this hole in the harden steel of the axle?. I know that doing it in a
>drill press would be best, but since that appears to be impractical (I
>really don't want to take the gear rod off the airframe any other
>suggestions would be appreciated. I could try a hand drill with a
>carbide bit, but am concerned about how to ensure that it comes out the
>other side of the axle lined up with the opposite hole in the nut.
>
>I presume it is necessary to cotter pin the axle nut for safety of
>flight. Anyone have the same problem - your solution??
>
>Thanks
>
>Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW
>anderson_ed(at)bah.com
Ed,
This is no big deal. Make a good solid centre punch so you don't slide
round on the threads. Use a slow speed and heavy pressure with plenty of
lubricant (kerosene or equivalent). Use a little file to dress the threads.
The regular bits are fine.
There is a good description of this in Frank Justice's builders manual
(you're not building without Frank's instructions I hope?)
Cheers,
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Slider question |
>
>I would avoid cutting out the stiffening rings in the f-6105 sub-panel.
>There's a good chance you'll end up having to cut out areas for radios,
>instruments, wiring runs, etc. later on, and if these intersect the
>lightenting holes then it might weaken the bulkhead unnecessarily.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
>Portland, OR
Randall,
What bulkhead?
By the time I've cut holes for radios, hoses, backs of long instruments,
wires, mounting plates etc........
.....my sub-panel looks like lacework. Every so often I get tempted to beef
it up with a few bits of angle. At the moment I'm kind of hoping its
stiffness if not too important to airframe integrety.
Anyone else had this anxiety?
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Products |
> Does anyone know the requirments of what products need to be TSO'D?
>
> I have been told that only the Encoder and the ELT need to be TSO'd...if
> this is true, how does one certify the airplane if using a MicroEncoder?
As I read the regs, when operating ANY aircraft within class A airspace
or within the "mode C veil" of B and C airspace, the "Transponder
Equipment" must meet TSO requirements (FAR 91.215). I have looked all
through the regs and have never seen anything in the FARs that would
exempt homebuilts from this reg. That doesn't mean it isn't there, just
that I can't find it.
Be that as it may, there are a lot of planes out there flying with
MicroEncoders, and I'll bet many of them occasionally go through B and C
airspace....! It may just come down to the fact that they don't seem to
be checking on this (with homebuilts anyway). That is until you have a
violation or accident of course.
I wonder what the folks at RMI have to say about this? Has anyone ever
asked them?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which Wood Prop? |
Paul
Aymar Demuth's props are excellent, however
not cheap. Also takes several months to get.
RVer273sb RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Products |
Paul,
Don't forget if you fly IFR your altimeter needs
to be tso,d . Don't know about a micro encoder
RVer273sb RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy tack rivets and procedure |
Mark,
You will need to get the tac rivets out so you can
take the canopy off to enlarge and chamfer the other
holes. They will probably spin while drilling them
out. It can be done. You will end up with some rivet
stems inside the frame tube.
RVer273sb RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Release Document, My Final Thoughts? |
If you surrender your
>aircraft's airworthiness certification/certificate and also your
>repairman's certificate (if applicable) back to the FAA, your aircraft is
>no longer an airworthy aircraft, or generally speaking - technically not
>even an aircraft anymore, thus you have essentially done all that you can
>do to protect your liabilities. I don't know of any other/better way (&
>neither does the FAA inspector) of your complete acknowledgement of the
>fact that your aircraft is deemed unairworthy to you-the seller-and thus
>transferring the liability to the buyer. If the buyer has to assemble the
>aircraft (if you took any parts/pieces off), have it re-inspected, submit
>all the paperwork to the FAA, go through the 40 hours of flight testing
>establishing the performance characteristics and airworthiness of that
>aircraft, then you have shifted about as much liability as you possibly can
>in protecting yourself if you want to sell your aircraft (or, now so called
>airparts etc.).
Rob,
So how does this new owner reinstate an airworthiness cert on this
airplane? Its a pile of parts, not an airplane. Is this guy gonna try and
claim he built it himself and claim compliance with the 51% rule?
A local chapter member is currently trying to resolve this dilemma. He
bought 2 Vari-Ezes from an aerospace company dirt cheap. The aerospace
company had purchased them from the original builders, surrendered the
airworthiness certificates, and outfitted the airplanes as unmanned drones.
When they were done they sold them minus engines and instruments for "less
than the cost of the foam it would take to build one", so it seemed too
good a deal for this guy to pass up. Of course if he never figures a way to
get an airworthiness cert on these things they wont have been such a good
deal!
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question |
Establish a budget and plan on working on it for a long time. You could
very well be flying in 10 or 15 years.
Tom -6 fuse skinning, 4th year on a budget.
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Vejita' S. Cousin <scousin(at)u.washington.edu>
Date: Sunday, July 05, 1998 9:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Newbie question
>
> Hello, I'm considering buying a RV6a kit at the start of 1999. I am a
>ful time student (ie. just above poor). I know you much get this a
>thousand times but what is the total cost:
>
> Tools
> Bare minium avionics/instruments
> paint/seat
> TEST FLIGHT
> misc. engine parts because it's actually cost
> etc.
>
>ESP the cost of tools, as I do not currently own any ^_^
>
> Thanks in Advance
> Sydney
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Scott, 10gs, but at what airframe weight? the 1650lbs or some other,
>ie
>aerobatic weight. From the manual I take the 6 to be stressed to +6g
>and
>-3g design (+9-4.5 ultimate) BUT only at 1375 pounds weight.
Your right. I guess I should have mentioned that it was tested at
aerobatic gross weight, but I thought that was obvious.
The RV's can not handle the load of 9'g with out failure if you are at
maximum gross weight (and I doubt that any other kit plane can either).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which Wood Prop? |
>
>Paul,
>Paul Irlbeck in Minnesota. Ad in Sport Aviation classifieds under
propellers.
>Middle of the road price wise, good workmanship, good over the phone, and
>delivered on time.
> Don Simmons RV-4 N144DN
> Redding, CA
>
I had one of his props on my RV-6. Paul describes his props as 'clones' of
the Pacesetter 200. I highly recommend buying one of Pauls props.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
Seattle WA USA
1974 1/2 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/14/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Release Document, My Final Thoughts? |
<< Is this guy gonna try and
claim he built it himself and claim compliance with the 51% rule? >>
IMHO, I would think that what question one has to ask in the case of the Vari-
E-Z's, is this. How much time does the average builder take to build one, and
how is this time split up. I mean, an RV in "Quick-build" form complies with
the 51% rule. There will still be alot to do to make them fly. I suppose
that he "may" have to be "upfront" with the FAA in this regard. They can tell
him how much of the airframe they willing to consider less than 51%, figuring
all of the "other" operations involved in completing the airplane. I guess
this could be "real interesting"!
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Scotch Bright polishing wheels |
Fellow listers;
I have Scotch Bright polishing wheels available at a great price.
Anyone that has polished with them know how fast a smooth edge can be
obtained.
My wheels are in the original 3M boxes and are a full 12 inch diameter,
3 inches wide, and with a 5 inch bore. I am asking 30 dollars each plus
shipping.
Contact me off line if interested.
John
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Products |
>
> Paul,
> Don't forget if you fly IFR your altimeter needs
> to be tso,d . Don't know about a micro encoder
> RVer273sb RV4 Co.
Listers...all the misinformation in this thread is getting WAY out of hand.
Assuming we are talking part 91 ops:
1) Yes, your ELT *must* be TSO'd for new installations.
2) The encoder must be able to *meet* TSO-C74(x). The uEncoder does, so
no problem.
3) The altimeter does *not* have to be TSO'd for either VFR or IFR (neither
do any other flight instruments or avionics).
Do a quick check of FAR's 91.205 and 91.207 for verification (find them at
http://www.fedworld.gov/pub/faa-ri/far-91.txt).
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Several folk asked for some more details during recent discussions
on thermocouples. I've excerpted a few pages from the temperature
measurement chapter in the 'Connection. Interested individuals
are free to download and print the .pdf file on thermocouples
to be found at:
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html>
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulleys |
---winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:
>
>
> I'd like to put a larger pulley on my alternator to slow it down
some. I
> currently have a 3" pulley on an Autolite alternator. I called
Autolite
> who said that they never made alternators even though their name is
> stamped on the casing. (Isn't minimum wage wonderful)
>
> Can anybody help me locate someplace where I can purchase a larger
> pulley?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
On my O-320 B2B Narrow Deck (standard cylinder flange) constant speed
prop powered RV-6, the larger pulley will not fit under the cowl
without modifying the cowl with a blister. I tried 3 different
alternators before I went out and purchased the best. B & C
alternator is by far the best electrically and the mechanical fit was
PERFECT. I did have a custom pulley for the alternator made out of
aluminum to fit a wider belt. It is the same diameter as the original
B & C supplied one. It will clear the cowl by 3/8" when the
alternator is extended as far as it will go within its bracket. The
starter ring gear had wear on the pulley that drive the alternator.
That was re-grooved in exchange for a ride. (I still owe the
machinist the ride.) If I would have had to pay for the machine work,
it would have still been cheaper than a new starter ring gear
assembly.
Before fitting a larger diameter pulley, make sure it will fit in the
cowl. The 4 inch pulley that I had off of the generator, does not fit
in my cowl.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Products |
>
> >
> > Paul,
> > Don't forget if you fly IFR your altimeter needs
> > to be tso,d . Don't know about a micro encoder
> > RVer273sb RV4 Co.
>
> Listers...all the misinformation in this thread is getting WAY out
of hand.
> Assuming we are talking part 91 ops:
>
> 1) Yes, your ELT *must* be TSO'd for new installations.
> 2) The encoder must be able to *meet* TSO-C74(x). The uEncoder
does, so
> no problem.
> 3) The altimeter does *not* have to be TSO'd for either VFR or IFR
(neither
> do any other flight instruments or avionics).
>
> Do a quick check of FAR's 91.205 and 91.207 for verification (find
them at
> http://www.fedworld.gov/pub/faa-ri/far-91.txt).
>
> Rob (RV-6Q).
>
I have the microEncoder and fly in class C airspace all the time. I
have also flown in Class B airspace with it. I did have the
installation checked and certified before the airplane was certified.
I have the repair shop pitot/static correspondance check entry signed
off in my logbook. This was not the first microEncoder that he has
done. The microEncoder is designed to meet TSO-C74(?).
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which Wood Prop? |
Has anyone any info on Warnke props since his daughter took over the
business?? Get no reply on phone calls...Jim Brown..Matawan, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scotch Bright polishing wheels |
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
For those interested,
I have been using one of John's wheels for some time now. I made a
simple arbor out of two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood and a 1/2 inch
carriage bolt. Using some duct tape on the bolt threads as protection, I
chuck this up into the drill press, letting the carrige bolt head spin on
a piece of hardwood. The set up works out well (so well I bought a
second wheel for the next project).
This is the most used tool in the shop. The $42 little wheel I
bought from Avery is mounted on the bench grinder but has seen little
use.
Carl Froehlich
Vienna, VA
#80590 (wings)
carlfro(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re:51% rule and seling your RV for parts |
><< Is this guy gonna try and
> claim he built it himself and claim compliance with the 51% rule? >>
>IMHO, I would think that what question one has to ask in the case of the
Vari-
>E-Z's, is this. How much time does the average builder take to build one,
and
>how is this time split up. I mean, an RV in "Quick-build" form complies with
>the 51% rule. There will still be alot to do to make them fly. I suppose
>that he "may" have to be "upfront" with the FAA in this regard. They can
tell
>him how much of the airframe they willing to consider less than 51%, figuring
>all of the "other" operations involved in completing the airplane. I guess
>this could be "real interesting"!
>Jim Nice
At a meeting with the FAA about licensing a homebuilt the Chief Inspector
from our FSDO said that you don't have to build 51% of a homebuilt to get
it licensed. You only need 51% to get the repairman's certificate!
Another builder asked for clarification and he restated it saying: Suppose
you buy a partially complete homebuilt project from another builder and
complete it. If you didn't do 51% of the work then you can't get a
repairman's certificate, but you can sure get the airworthiness certificate
subject to the same restrictions (25 or 40 hour test period) as if you
built the entire thing.
Thus the Vari-Eze purchasor could assemble one (or both!) Ezes and get new
Airworthiness Certificates (and Data plates and restrictions) but he could
not be the "repairman" for either.
This goes along nicely with the discussion of selling your RV as "parts"
which are later reassembled. If the new purchasor has to get new data
plate and airworthiness certificate listing *him* as the builder, your
liability would be less than if you sold the completed aircraft as the
manufacturer.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
>><snip>From the manual I take the 6 to be stressed to +6g and
>>-3g design (+9-4.5 ultimate) BUT only at 1375 pounds weight.
>Your right. I guess I should have mentioned that it was tested at
>aerobatic gross weight, but I thought that was obvious.
>The RV's can not handle the load of 9'g with out failure if you are at
>maximum gross weight (and I doubt that any other kit plane can either).
>Scott McDaniels
To convert that to other loadings, multiply the "G" x the calculated GW
(1375 in this example) to get the total load realized by the structure
(1375 x 6= 8250#)
Divide by the actual GW of the plane in question (1800#?) to get the "G"
load at which you could wrinkle your plane or begin to break it.
8250/1800=4.5G
So an RV-6 with 1800# GW would be stressing the structure to the same
levels as the much lighter aerobatic RV-6. Something to think about next
time you decide to see how much vertical penetration your -6 has when your
200# buddy is sitting in the seat next to you.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
<< The RV's can not handle the load of 9'g with out failure if you are at
maximum gross weight (and I doubt that any other kit plane can either). >>
Thanks, Scott. I think a lot of people have overlooked this in the past. The
weight of the airplane, at the time of the aerobatic maneuver, can make a lot
of difference as to whether it can handle the load it is being asked to
accept.
Too, we sometimes ignore the fact that the airframe can be "spike" loaded-
momentarily- beyond it's ultimate limit, without us knowing that we are even
getting close. If one is at 7.5 G and sneezes, 9 G can be easily exceeded, if
only for that split second.
Regards
Wendell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Caummisar" <caummisa(at)arn.net> |
After deciding a couple of years ago to learn to fly, I jumped my first
hurdle and got my ticket about a year ago. I then decided to build
a 6A. After lurking on the list for about two years, buying tools
recommended
by you listers that I was more familiar with [air compressor and drill
press], I made
the trek to tool mecca last week....Avery Enterprises.
(No I drove.) Here I plunked down the required chunk of
change and purchased Bob's (& Judy's) RV BASIC STARTER KIT
[with training wheels : ) ] Bob was gracious enough to throw
in some scrap aluminum and rivets.
So TONIGHT I drove my first rivet. It wasn't pretty, but I did get two
kinds of
smiles, one in the metal and one on my face. I even called my wife out to
the
shop to watch my FIRST RIVET. [I introduced her to the bucking bar while I
was at it : ) ]
Disappointed?? NO WAY!! I know I can do this. I've built more intricate
projects.
A little practice and I'll be ready.
I've got a small shop, a two car garage and once I recover from the expense
of all these tools, I'm ordering tail feathers.
Richard Caummisar
Amarillo, TX
Almost done tooling up for 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Hi Ed. I drilled mine while it was on the airplane also. It's very
>easy
>with a hand drill. I think I even used a regular drill bit with
>cutting
>oil. The leg is hardened, but it is hollow, so you only have to drill
>through the "edges". Once the nut is in place, run the drill through
>the
>top and bottom hole lightly to mark the leg top and bottom. Then
>remove
>the nut, drill through the top of the leg, then through the bottom at
>your
>marks. Just keep the bit reasonably straight and the holes will line
>up
>fine.
>
This is the same way I do it except be easy on your self and drill
through the front and back hole. Also use a drill that you can turn
slowly while using moderate pressure.
Oh and one more thing, after drilling one of the holes slip a drill bit
in to keep the nut from turning while you drill the hole on the opposite
side
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Release Document, My Final Thoughts? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>On an earlier thread, someone had mentioned to take the wings off the
>bird
>and have the buyer take it to an A&P and have them sign it off after
>it was
>sold. This would work I guess, but I wouldn't want my name in the
>books as
>an A&P for an aircraft that was sold in pieces and was unfamiliar to
>me?
>This does spread the liability a bit thinner to the A&P and the new
>owner,
>but you are still the builder, therefore, I still see your name on the
>lawsuit!
>
Actually this is of no benefit at all. The way the FAR's are currently
written in regards to experimental airworthiness aircraft, the only
requirement for an A&P or the builder having his own repairmans
certificate is to complete the sign off of the condition (annual)
inspection every 12 calendar months . Other than that, there is no FAR's
preventing someone who didn't build there RV from doing maintenance or
repairs (even major ones) on it. Except that after the work, they (as
the pilot) have the responsibility to determine that the airplane is
airworthy.
So any experimental that you sell, if it has a valid airworthiness and
the condition inspection is still current, the new owner can simply take
it home and put it back together (legally).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | De & Don Sowder <sowder1(at)mychoice.net> |
I would like to unsubcribe to the RV list.
Sowder1(at)mychoice.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy tack rivets and procedure |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
> Mark,
> You will need to get the tac rivets out so you can
> take the canopy off to enlarge and chamfer the other
> holes. They will probably spin while drilling them
> out. It can be done. You will end up with some rivet
> stems inside the frame tube.
> RVer273sb RV4 Co.
>
>
You need to just be sure that you use rivets that are all aluminum
(no rivets with steel center mandrels here). Use the AACQ rivets that
are supplied in the kit.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv4mike" <rv4mike(at)access1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question-cost to build |
> OK so my main question is this. The Kit cost $12k and a cheap used
>engine is $6k. So what adds the extra $12k to the cost to finish the
>plane. Assume I know nothing (not far from the truth).
> When I check the cost for transpoders/avionics/the basic 6 VFR
>instruments I only get about $3k. Paint/seats about $1500~2000. But that
>still leaves $7k that for the life I me I don't know where it's going???
>$7k is 20% of $30k so I'd really like to know where that money is going.
>
I did keep accurate totals on all purchases. You seem to be forgetting some
items:
exhaust, prop, engine parts that need replacement, engine control, ....It
all adds up.
Remember the kit ends at the firewall. Alot of cost is firewall forward, not
to mention radios, instruments. Go balls out and you could have $50k in
engine, prop, and radios.
Here's my totals :
Kit 9,900 bought in 92
Engine 7,900 core, new mags,carb,fuel pump,
exhaust
Prop 450 Sterba FP wood
Radios 3,000 Loran, Com, Trans, Elt
Instruments 1,000 air, tach, T&B, Oil, CHT/EGT, alt,
Tools 900 expect to spend more, I had or
made many tools myself
shipping 650 Oregon to Southern Calif (Chino)
Paint 3,200 had it painted
Electrical 430 breakers, wire, connectors,
battery and such
other 900 books, FAA, much is firewall
forward stuff
It's very easy to spend much more ((eg. new engine , constant speed prop,
full IFR panel, radios)
Good luck ...you won't be sorry!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mode C Altimeter? |
Listers -
In order to fly into the larger centers I am told that I need a transponder
that can also transmit my altitude - mode C. My question is this - Do I need a
special type of altimeter to hook up to a transponder? Just how does this Mode
C
really work?
Thanks in advance for all your help .
DGM RV-6
Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Hold down....? |
<< So, you would keep the batteries in their traditional location? The only
problem I may have is I am planning on a 180 hp, constant speed on my 6A
which may push the cg forward. A fellow who just got done with this
configuration placed his battery behind the passenger seat. Bad place for
the passenger in a crash without the battery box. >>
And unnecessary. My 6A with O-360-A1A and Hatzell c/s weighs in at 1160 lb
empty (has all kinds of goodies, including the O2 and Halon) and the cg is
68.90" from the datum. The most aft cg moves to 76.36" with 100 lbs in the
baggage area, nearly empty fuel tanks and 412 lbs of pilot and passenger. My
gross weight is 1900 lbs and in this configuration Vs1 is 60 mph. It recovers
easily with release of stick back pressure.
What a plane!
-GV (Just back from my first night flight. I sure like those RMD wingtip
lights)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Big Loop |
<01BDA8CE.FE974DE0.JCocker(at)Ibm.Net>
| From: | rv-list(at)pteron.demon.co.uk |
JCocker(at)Ibm.Net said:
> I have the story of the trip as a file which I can send to anyone who
> would like the full story. Email me off the list.
I'd like to see this please!
regards
--
Andy
"My employer does not necessarily share my views - but I'm
working on it."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mode C Altimeter? |
Douglas G. Murray wrote:
>My question is this - Do I need a
>special type of altimeter to hook up to a transponder?
The short answer is yes. Most builders sensibly (IMHO) purchase
a device called a 'blind encoder' which can be purchased new for
about $200 US. This is a black box that is connected to your
static system and your transponder - it reports your altitude to
ATC, but you can not see the altitude it is reporting. These
devices are sold by nearly all avionics dealers and are carried
as an item in Van's accessory catalog as well.
You can indeed buy an 'encoding' altimeter which looks just like
a standard altimeter, but also outputs the altitude to the
transponder, just as the blind encoder does. However, all prices
that I have seen for these altimeters are well over $1000 US.
I expect their overhaul cost is correspondingly higher.
Regards,
Blake Harral
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevor Mills <tmills(at)powerup.com.au> |
| Subject: | Wires through the rudder |
I have all but finished my Tail kit with the exception of rolling the forward edges
of the elevators and rudder. My question is, how are the lighting and trim
cables routed out of them without chaffing. and where should I drill the
holes.
Thank You.
Trevor Mills 80605
Waiting for wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Aaaahhh - engine's on! |
My O-360 is firmly attached to the airframe! These are orgasmic
times!
Nobody else gives a rodent's cloaca, but I knew you guys would
understand.
( If anybody tells you it's impossible to mount the engine on the
dynafocal mounts listen to them - they are right! But with
sufficiently blue incantations and assistance from Bob Avery's
brilliant lead-through bullets, magic happens.)
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Nose rib warning |
When driling the W-409 nose ribs to the main spar the directions say to use
.032 material to keep the rib centered on the spar. Since I didn't have
any .032 scrap handy I used .020. I didn't notice it until after I drilled
a few ribs that they were sagging, the .020 wasn't strong enough to hold
the rib up.
I briefly considered that a "drooped" leading edge is often used to help
low speed handling but quickly decided to make an offering to the
alluminum god and ordered some new nose ribs. Still lacking any .032
scrap, I used a metal rule for strength on the rest of the ribs and it
worked fine. Moral of the story... If Van says to use a particular size
material, even for alaignment, there is probably a good reason for it.
As a side note, last week it took me 22 hours to travel from NY to Tucson
by commercial jet. An RV could do it quicker! More incentive to keep
working and find some cash to keep the project moving.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
N733JJ (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
dear scott mcdanials,
i've been playing with that free rv6 cg calculator and realize that my plane
will gross out about 1800lbs. with fuel, passenger, and luggage. is this
acceptable? and i don,t have any intention on doing acro's- but would like to
know the g - loads ( failure )
thanks in advance
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mode C Altimeter? |
> Douglas G. Murray wrote:
>
> >My question is this - Do I need a
> >special type of altimeter to hook up to a transponder?
>
> The short answer is yes. Most builders sensibly (IMHO) purchase
> a device called a 'blind encoder' which can be purchased new for
> about $200 US. This is a black box that is connected to your
> static system and your transponder - it reports your altitude to
> ATC, but you can not see the altitude it is reporting. These
> devices are sold by nearly all avionics dealers and are carried
> as an item in Van's accessory catalog as well.
>
> You can indeed buy an 'encoding' altimeter which looks just like
> a standard altimeter, but also outputs the altitude to the
> transponder, just as the blind encoder does. However, all prices
> that I have seen for these altimeters are well over $1000 US.
> I expect their overhaul cost is correspondingly higher.
>
> Regards,
> Blake Harral
>
>
Blake -
Thanks for the concise and timely answer to my question. I am sending in a order
today to Vans and suddenly realized that I wasn't sure about the altimeter to
purchase. I will go with the blind encoder as you suggest.
Thanks again for your help.
DGM - RV-6
Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which Wood Prop? |
In a message dated 7/6/98 10:50:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, A20driver(at)aol.com
writes:
> Has anyone any info on Warnke props since his daughter took over the
> business?? Get no reply on phone calls...Jim Brown..Matawan, NJ
Sounds like business as usual.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 0-320 carburetor |
In a message dated 7/6/98 5:26:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JimNolan(at)kconline.com writes:
> The man's name at Consolidated is Randy Knutson. If your carb is still under
> warranty I'm sure they'll make it good.
Thanks Jim...only if Consolidated has a 17 year warranty.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
I am going to buying my radios and instruments for my RV-8 at Oshkosh. Does
anyone have any experience with the Val-Com radio? At $695, or $725 with
prewired harness, it seems hard to beat, especially since I am planning on
dual radios. Are they reliable?
Von Alexander
RV-8 #544
Riveting Fuse Skins;
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Mitchell Fuel Level Gauges |
Listers; Does anyone know if the Mitchell fuel level gauges are compatible
with the standard Stewart Warner senders I have on my RV-8 tanks? How about
the reliability of Mitchell gauges in general?
Von Alexander
RV-8#544
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Want to buy used "G" meter. |
I am in the market for a used "G" meter. I would prefer one to fit a 2 1/4"
cutout, but I'm flexible! So, if anyone happens to have one just lying around,
and wouldn't mind converting it to cash, please e-mail me off of the list.
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mode C Altimeter? |
<< The short answer is yes. Most builders sensibly (IMHO) purchase
a device called a 'blind encoder' which can be purchased new for
about $200 US. This is a black box that is connected to your
static system and your transponder - it reports your altitude to
ATC, but you can not see the altitude it is reporting. >>
Unless you have the new King KT-76C transponder, it shows the encoded flight
level it's transponding on the front display! I have one that I purchased from
Van's and they no one could even touch their price!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
just looks like swiss cheese.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
The operating limitations issued for my aircraft were in the standard FAA
wording and specify that operation is limited to day VFR only, unless the
aircraft is equipped with operating position and anticollision lighting in
accordance with FAR 91.33. Now if you don't have this specified in your
airworthiness operating limitations, then you may be able to sneak by on a
technicality and use the Aeroflash systems (100 effective candles). My guess
is if you have an accident or incident at night and the a/c is inspected, you
may have problems with your insurance paying off because technically speaking
you are not night legal.
Because your new RV has not been certified prior to Aug of 1971, FAR 91.33
refers you to the FAR 23.1401 requirements in effect since Aug 10, 1971.
FAR 23.1401, along with the flashing rate requirements (40 to 100 flashes per
minute) and coverage pattern, also unambiguously specifies that the intensity
of the anticollision lights must be 400 effective candles in the horizontal
plane (0 to 5 above or below). Further there must be 240 effective candles
from 5 to 10 above or below, 80 effective candles from 10 to 20 above or
below, 40 effective candles from 20 to 30 above or below and 20 effective
candles from 30 to 75 above or below. These requirements usually lead
manufacturers to use lenses over the flash tubes to concentrate the intensity
primarily in the horizontal plane when light fixtures are mounted on the
wingtips and rudder. Other mounting positions may not meet the letter of the
FAR.
I agree with Bob Nuckolls when he says that, if the Aeroflash units put out
the required lighting intensity to meet FAR 23.1401, they should show their
approval or test documentation. Otherwise it's just a case of "he said, she
said" and may net you an a/c that you cannot legally fly at night.
Just the facts,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Val-Com Radio |
MAlexan533(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I am going to buying my radios and instruments for my RV-8 at Oshkosh. Does
> anyone have any experience with the Val-Com radio? At $695, or $725 with
> prewired harness, it seems hard to beat, especially since I am planning on
> dual radios. Are they reliable?
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 #544
> Riveting Fuse Skins;
>
Von
I like them so well that I have two of them in my RV-6. I can listen
to my buddies on 122.75 and still listen to ATC. Some people don't like
fact that you can't see the second freq. that is tuned in until you
flip the switch, but has not ever been a problem for me.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
Can someone tell me how to go about getting a ferry permit (or if one is even
necessary) to fly an experimental that is out of conditional inspection to
another location? Am guessing a call to the local FAA office? Any help
appreciated.
Von Alexander
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mode C Altimeter? |
<< In order to fly into the larger centers I am told that I need a transponder
that can also transmit my altitude - mode C. My question is this - Do I need
a
special type of altimeter to hook up to a transponder? Just how does this
Mode C
really work? >>
Mode C sends the normal coded pulses along with altitude info to center. In
the U.S., you must have either a blind encoder (currently $200 to $400 US) or
an encoding altimeter (usually bigger bucks) connected to a Mode C capable
transponder. The altitude reporting system then needs to be certified in the
a/c by your local avionics shop and reinspected every two years if memory
serves.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Val-Com Radio |
<< Does
anyone have any experience with the Val-Com radio? At $695, or $725 with
prewired harness, it seems hard to beat, especially since I am planning on
dual radios. Are they reliable? >>
We have these in two Kitfoxes for about 9 yrs and they work okay. Vibration
was a problem with one (two-strokes engines you know) and a big capacitor
inside broke loose, but otherwise they worked well. The factory fixed it
under warranty.
IMO the transmission and reception wasn't quite as good as my Bendix/King
stuff but it is certainly a good value. No flip-flop though.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder fairing light |
Listers
I cannot come up with a good way to attach the rear white nav light
to the bottom rudder fairing.
What is the best way to mount the light in the fiberglass?
I need to get this little job behind me.
Thanks
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Getting close!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Val-Com Radio- user report |
<< Does
anyone have any experience with the Val-Com radio? At $695, or $725 with
prewired harness, it seems hard to beat, especially since I am planning on
dual radios. Are they reliable? >>
My neighbor has one in his -6. No problems in 5 years! I had one in my -4, and
it was trouble from day one. After three trips back for warranty work (vol &
sq problems), the shop next door to the manufacturer finally fixed it, with no
problems reported by the current owner in two years. Visibility in direct
sunlight is good. It automatically comes up on 121.5 and 121.9, so it gives
you an auto check on your ELT, and immediate access to gnd freq.
The tuner style leaves a bit to be desired in turbulence (momentary toggle
switches- dang- I can't hit the correct freq and stop there!). I recommend a
finger rest above the thing, so that you may control movements a bit better. I
seem to recall a battery option to save the last used freq's- a definate plus
IMHO. I had the optional intercom, but as it lacked vol & squelch controls, I
never installed it.
I'd say a good value for a 2nd comm, if you were to get one (good performance
out of the box) like my neighbor has.
Check six!
Mark
HR2 Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ferry Permit |
Von,
You're correct. You will have to visit your local FSDO. A call to them
before you leave the house would be appropriate so that you take anything
with you that they might need to review, i.e. a/c logs. They will complete
and give you a ferry permit that you must carry with you in the aircraft for
that flight. The ferry permit is a one-time use only permit and does not
allow you to fly the a/c anywhere else. I haven't gotten one in a long time,
but it wasn't a very complex procedure.
Hope this helps.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
>Can someone tell me how to go about getting a ferry permit (or if one is
even
>necessary) to fly an experimental that is out of conditional inspection to
>another location? Am guessing a call to the local FAA office? Any help
>appreciated.
>Von Alexander
>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8aviator(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulleys |
Please check "aircraft spruce", I bought one from them, little expencive
but a well made pully.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | The Mecca of engines! |
Listers:
After a detailed discussion with Ken from Van's regarding engines, he told
me of a gentleman name Bart Lalonde in Canada who has been building
lycomings for homebuilders for 20 years....
Ken has one of his engines and has reccommended many more, and he said that
it is nothing short of perfection. His business is only by word of mouth,
and he has a 4 month lead time
I have since placed an order for one of his 0-320-D1A engines
his prices are:
0-320 $12,100
0-360 $15,700
These prices are complete (even alternator and NEW slick mags) and
Outright..yes outright (no core)
Bart is a very down to earth guy to deal with from what I gathered on the
phone...very helpful....
You can contact him at: 250-376-2955
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Just bought an Engine!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mitchell Fuel Level Gauges |
>
>Listers; Does anyone know if the Mitchell fuel level gauges are compatible
>with the standard Stewart Warner senders I have on my RV-8 tanks?
Yes,
... the Mitchell guages use 33 - 240 ohms senders and are thus
compatible with the SW senders.
... Gil (it's in the archives) Alexander
>How about
>the reliability of Mitchell gauges in general?
>Von Alexander
>RV-8#544
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
t has had its conditional inspection performed - I believe you
will find that the same thing holds true of a certified airplane and its
required annual inspection. In other words, if the aircraft is out of
annual, the airworthiness certificate is not valid, but a ferry permit can
be issued to take it to where one can be performed.
I would start with your local General Aviation District Office (GADO). I
believe that they issue the permit and you should be able to pick it up there.
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6;
canopy
an Aeroflash installation instruction sheet on front of me. It
specifies that these systems comply with 23.1401, 27.1401, 91.33 (c) 3 dated
10 July 1971. This is for the singe flash power supply- the double flash power
supply is not certified as of this date, but it's in the works. Our wonderful
gov't ain't too fast, ya know. The factory is going to fax me an updated
install sheet, so I'll compare the two and re-post if necessary.
Bob Nuckolls had mentioned these systems being grandfathered in- I'll try to
get that info, too. It sounds like they would have to actually comply, tho...
Check six!
Mark
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com> |
| Subject: | HAPPINESS REPORT: First Flight RV4 N2ZK |
HAPPINESS REPORT
Brand new RV4 N2ZK (SN 1190) flew for the first time on Monday
afternoon near Wabasha, MN.
Empty weight is 977.
O-360 with Paul Irlbeck wood prop.
VFR panel.
DJ's interior.
EI electronic instruments.
Allegro M816 engine analyzer (fantastic!!)
First flight lasted 20 minutes.
No significant problems.
Cowl off and checked OK.
Then up again for another flight.
Temps all very good on a hot day.
Big RV grin.
Frank Zeck, RV4 N2ZK flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
SCOTT R MCDANIELS wrote:
> Oh and one more thing, after drilling one of the holes slip a drill bit
> in to keep the nut from turning while you drill the hole on the opposite
> side
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are my own
> and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
> of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Nuts Cotter Pin hole |
Thanks Leo,
Yes, I obtained a copy of Frank Justice's instructions - but, unfortunately
(or maybe not considering I've been building for 5 1/2 years) I had completed all
the airframe. I did briefly look in his instructions, but the last sheet I had
downloaded had the fuselage as the last section. Next time!
Ed
Leo Davies wrote:
> - Use a slow speed and heavy pressure with plenty of
> lubricant (kerosene or equivalent). Use a little file to dress the threads.
> The regular bits are fine.
>
> There is a good description of this in Frank Justice's builders manual
> (you're not building without Frank's instructions I hope?)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Leo Davies
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HAPPINESS REPORT: First Flight RV4 N2ZK |
Congrats Frank! I have a grin for you...I can't wait to join you next year!
Paul Besing
>
>HAPPINESS REPORT
>
>Brand new RV4 N2ZK (SN 1190) flew for the first time on Monday
>afternoon near Wabasha, MN.
>
>Empty weight is 977.
>O-360 with Paul Irlbeck wood prop.
>VFR panel.
>DJ's interior.
>EI electronic instruments.
>Allegro M816 engine analyzer (fantastic!!)
>First flight lasted 20 minutes.
>No significant problems.
>Cowl off and checked OK.
>Then up again for another flight.
>Temps all very good on a hot day.
>
>Big RV grin.
>
>Frank Zeck, RV4 N2ZK flying
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mode C Altimeter? |
Rocky Mountain Instruments Micro Encoder contains an encoder and the unit will
display altitude, density altitude, pressure altitude and pressure altitude
rounded to the nearest 100' which is what the unit sends to your mode C
transponder. This unit also contains a wealth of other flight information. I
built and installed one in my 6A (VFR only) and it has been trouble free in 75
hours of use. I hightly recommend the unit. If you care to see it, it's on my
home page.
chet razer
http://scribers.midwest.net/razer/
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << The short answer is yes. Most builders sensibly (IMHO) purchase
> a device called a 'blind encoder' which can be purchased new for
> about $200 US. This is a black box that is connected to your
> static system and your transponder - it reports your altitude to
> ATC, but you can not see the altitude it is reporting. >>
>
> Unless you have the new King KT-76C transponder, it shows the encoded flight
> level it's transponding on the front display! I have one that I purchased from
> Van's and they no one could even touch their price!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder fairing light |
<<
Listers
I cannot come up with a good way to attach the rear white nav light
to the bottom rudder fairing.
What is the best way to mount the light in the fiberglass?
I need to get this little job behind me.
Thanks
Craig Hiers >>
Van sell's a rudder bottom with provisions for a nav light.
Cash
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 0-320 carburetor |
<< Sport AV8R writes:
> Or I could pay $529 for an entire rebuilt carb from Consolidated Fuel, as
> another way to end up with "the carb that Van sells" on his new O-320's.
Or you could rebuild your carb (its real easy) for about $150 with a rebuild
kit. I don't think I'd put a dime into my carb. If faced with the possibility
of having to replace it I would upgrade to fuel injection (Airflow or an
elecrtonic).
Gary >>
Gary: I was merely looking for a way to end up with the identical carb bowl
vent situation as is found on the carbs Van provides with his new engines,
ones which presumably aren't giving the mixture trouble we 've had with our
carbs.
Fuel injection is an interesting alternative, but what about the hot start
problems and the need (?) for vapor return lines to avoid vapor lock with
mogas? Do the systems retain the old carb as part of the air path, or is it
necessary to reconfigure the lower cowl and air box? In would not relish any
further fiberglass/paint work right now.
What about the Ellison TBI? Same questions about the dimensional/mechanical
issues. Also don't want to have to get the FAA back out to sign me off again
for a Major Change!
I appreciate so much your offer of the mag to check things out. And I'd like
to hear what you know about the questions I've raised above. My next trip to
the airport should include the fuel flow test and compression test we talked
about. I think I will copy this post to the RV list to get input from the
others as well. I hope you don't mind them finding out what a generous and
helpful guy you are ;-)
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY |
<< Bill & List,
I dont have the particualars in front of me but I will get
them when I tear down my 4 for its condition inspection at the end of the
month. I bought a lawn and garden tractor battery for $60.00 2 years before
my
airplane was completed. It is a sealed battery (gell cell type). I have
almost
500 hours on the airplane and over 4 years of operation and she still shows
no
signs of weakness. I even left the master on 2 times and had to recharge the
battery twice ( when I first started flying the plane). It also has to turn
an
engine over with 10:1 compression. I will be purchasing another of the same
brand when and if it finally decides to give up. Not bad for the weather
extremes we have around here!
Ryan Bendure Co.
>>
Bob Charlie & List,
The battery installed In my RV I found out is not a lawn and
tractor battery, it is a wheel chair type battery. It is a DG1232 Gaurdian
Battery, Its put out by Douglas Battery and the owner of the battery shop
thought it was manufactured by a place called Powersonic.
This type battery is not rated for cold cranking amps he said, but it is a 32
ampre hour battery and he guessed them to be between 250 and 280 cold cranking
amps. The dimensions of the battery are as follows.
Length 7.75"
Width 5.20"
Height 6.30"
For those of you in the Denver area who might be interested they can be
purchased currently for $56.00.
Reco Battery
748 Sheridan Ave
Denver 80214
(303)-893-9324
I will say that when my battery finally kicks the bucket I will be back
for another!
Ryan Bendure Co
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
Re the discussion about carbs, fuel injection, etc: I am building a
-6A, but have been flying a homebuilt of my own design for about 10
years. I experimented with several carbs, but finally settled on an
Ellison TBI. Voila!! What a difference! The Ellison performs in
exactly the way I would expect fuel injection to work. It never
stumbles no matter how fast you accelerate the engine. It gives better
fuel economy because it can be leaned more effectively than any carb I
have ever tried (Of course, you won't gain this advantage unless you
exert the effort to actually lean it). Since it is roughly the same size
and configuration as a carb, it involves no special deal to install it
where the carb used to be. (You may need a small adapter to fit it to
the intake manifold, but that's all). Your regular mixture, throttle
cable, and gas lines can all be identical to those for a carb. It can
be mounted in any orientation that fits the engine, and runs the same
inverted as upright. Starting procedure is just a bit different in that
you have to prime it, even in warm weather. The only exception to
priming is when the engine is hot: it starts instantly, without any
priming, unlike fuel injection. The Ellison is a bit pricey, I think
somewhere around $800-900 for one that fits a Lycoming, which is still
cheaper than fuel injection for essentially the same kind of
performance. They have a website with good photos, specs, etc, which
you can find by typing "Ellison" into your Yahoo or whatever. I highly
recommend this unit based on years of great experience.
Bill Thomas
-6A Fuselage mostly finished
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
Dear Listers
Telephone No of Navaid Devices please
RV8 80274
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Word from the FSDO |
I just talked to my local FSDO and they said that TSO'd has nothing to do
with mode C. When you have your DAR sign off your a/c, as long as your
transponder has tested to TSO requirements which is +/- 125'...during
testing at selected altitudes generated by their testing equipment, then
you are fine...the guidlines for testing are found at FAR Part 43 Appendix
E and the requirements are found at FAR Part 91.213
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
Just Bought an Engine!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <jfasching(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mitchell Fuel Level Gauges |
Mitchell gauges have worked OK for me, tho I did not specifically use
the fuel level gauges...but if you have Steward Warner float senders do
yourself a BIG favor and put in Electronics International digital fuel
gauge. They are expensive (what isn't?) but they are DEAD accurate and
always correspond exactly with a dip stick reading. I love it, even tho'
I griped about the price. Van sells them too. You won't be sorry.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY |
Folks,
I believe you will find the battery Ryan mentioned
is a Guardian Model DG12-32J
12volt 32 amp hour sealed unit
Item no 262 By Douglas
RVer273sb Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY |
> Bob Charlie & List,
> The battery installed In my RV I found out is not a lawn and
>tractor battery, it is a wheel chair type battery. It is a DG1232 Gaurdian
>Battery, Its put out by Douglas Battery and the owner of the battery shop
>thought it was manufactured by a place called Powersonic.
> This type battery is not rated for cold cranking amps he said, but it is
a 32
>ampre hour battery and he guessed them to be between 250 and 280 cold
cranking
>amps. The dimensions of the battery are as follows.
> Length 7.75"
> Width 5.20"
> Height 6.30"
> For those of you in the Denver area who might be interested they can be
>purchased currently for $56.00.
> Reco Battery
> 748 Sheridan Ave
> Denver 80214
> (303)-893-9324
If it's a Powersonic product then it is indeed a gas-recombinant
battery with technology similar to the RG batteries offered
by Concord and B&C. Can you tell me what it weighs? Also, if
it's offered specifically for wheelchair service, then it has
been characterised more for it's deep cycle capabilities than
for cranking power. If it's truly a 32 a.h. device (should
weigh in at 27-20 pounds) then it's cranking abilities for this
application are not in question. It's resistance to deep-cycle
damage is perhaps a testamonial to it's wheelchair heritage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder fairing light |
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> <<
> Listers
> I cannot come up with a good way to attach the rear white nav light
> to the bottom rudder fairing.
> What is the best way to mount the light in the fiberglass?
> I need to get this little job behind me.
>
> Thanks
>
> Craig Hiers >>
>
> Van sell's a rudder bottom with provisions for a nav light.
>
> Cash
>
Cash
I have the fairing with the provision for the nav light.
I need to know how to attach the light to the fairing?
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeroflash Strobes- candlepower...this ought to do it... |
Listers:
Here is the last word, from a 'big wheel' within the Aeroflash company (THE
owner).
It would seem these are fine for our use (EXP catagory), but an a/c like the
Columbia 300 can't use 'em (new TC). The person I spoke with earlier couldn't
understand what the heck I wanted with the CP info, and she kept saying that 1
joule= 100,000 CP. I guess no one will ever know how that might fit into the
following (more trusted) explanation...
Let me know if you have further questions! I'll get the answer somehow.
Check six!
Mark
<< First and foremost. We are not advertising these units as FAA-PMA for new
type certificated aircraft!!!! We are advertising as NON-PMA into Kit Plane
Magazine & selling into the homebuilt / experimental market.
Its also true that our kits are rated at 100cp which happens to meet the
FAR for older tc aircraft which is still allowed. We are still selling
replacements for these aircraft. They are still out there in great numbers.
We are not selling these kits for new tc aircraft.
With all that said, yes, we are in the process of beefing up these units.
However, that is a long term undertaking. We hope to roll out by mid 1999
with 400cp. Power supplies will be much bigger and heavier.
Yes, the 400cp is for new tc aircraft and No we do not sell our kits to
these markets. If a new plane is recently built but to old tc specs (
most are) then the 100cp is fine.
end
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder fairing light |
craig,
i just finished this task myself about a month ago. at first i tried to mount
everything from inside the rudder but as you know it dosen't fit. all i did
was mark and drill the hole a little smaller than the fixture. used my
dremell with a drum sander and kept taking off a little at a time till the
round recessed part fit into it tightly. then i marked the screw holes,
drilled them so the small bolt would be a tight fit. this is were i think i
am alone in how i mounted my light. ( i inserted both the screws with the
heads inside and the threads facing out. installed the fixture over the
screws and used the little lock nuts that came with the light to hold the
fixture down. then i placed the globe and gasket with the retainer with hex
headed lock nuts with the plastic inside, i think there is a technical name
for those nuts, but i bought a bag of 8 for .49cents . now if the bulb burns
out, all i have to do is remove the top 2 nuts change the bulb without worring
about the rest of the fixture falling out. looks good.
seals tight. hope this helps
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HAPPINESS REPORT: First Flight RV4 N2ZK |
go ahead frank, let us know of your future trips
envyious in tampa
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:51% rule and seling your RV for parts |
<< Thus the Vari-Eze purchasor could assemble one (or both!) Ezes and get new
Airworthiness Certificates (and Data plates and restrictions) but he could
not be the "repairman" for either.
This goes along nicely with the discussion of selling your RV as "parts"
which are later reassembled. If the new purchasor has to get new data
plate and airworthiness certificate listing *him* as the builder, your
liability would be less than if you sold the completed aircraft as the
manufacturer.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L >>
Well folks, Bob's comment about this surely does clear up alot of stuff!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | 6/6A Slider Instrument Panel |
How does one go about marking the Instrument panel for trimming to fit
properly under the forward top skin? I have used a straight edge and
laid on top of the firewall and f6105 subpanel and marked the back of
the instrument panel, but am afraid to start cutting.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A Pondering the trimming of Instrument panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
<< These prices are complete (even alternator and NEW slick mags) and
Outright..yes outright (no core) >>
Do these engines come with pink slips? and if yes, would they be considered
certified engines in the U.S?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
I hav a navaid a/p , the dam thing has never worked like it should . you get
what you pay for . N7470U RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder fairing light |
>> Listers
>> I cannot come up with a good way to attach the rear white nav light
>> to the bottom rudder fairing.
>> What is the best way to mount the light in the fiberglass?
>> I need to get this little job behind me.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Craig Hiers >>
Craig,
FWIW, this is how I installed my light:
Secure a piece of 3/16 aluminum in the rudder fairing. This piece should be
filed to fit the contour of the fairing and is located where the mounting
holes are in the tail light are. I used two pieces of aluminum about 1/4"
high X 3/16" wide X 3/8" long. These sizes are approximate as it was two
years since I installed them. The size description is to give you a better
idea of how I made the blocks. Once these blocks are fit into the rudder
fairing, they can be drilled and tapped to accept a machine screw that will
hold the tail light on. Two other holes are drilled sideways through the
rudder fairing and each block, perpendicular to, but not through, the
drilled and tapped hole. This is used to pin each block to the fiberglass
fairing. These pins are covered up and secured with a light piece of
fiberglass cloth.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin and King Avionics |
>Am embarassed to admit I just got the 135A updated for the first time even
though
>I bought it over two years ago. Guess what ? The nice lady at Kansas City
sent
>me a free update anyway!! Try asking for that from GArmin. I love the
customer
>support and availability of repair stations for King.
Here is my experience with Garmin.
I have a used GPSMAP 195, old database. While performing cruise tests, I
was climbing through 13,400, up to 13,900 when the front face blew off with
a bang. This was one of the older units that was pressurized with an inert
gas and the reduced pressure at this altitude caused the face to dislodge.
I called Garmin, told them it was a second hand unit and received an RMA
number. I also mentioned that the battery was no longer holding a charge.
Garmin did a two day turn around, sent it back UPS Blue, fixed the face,
installed a vent to prevent future pressure problems, replaced the front
glass which had a scratch (my fault), updated the software version, updated
the database and replaced the rechargeable battery. This was all performed
at no charge. From my experience, you could not ask for better customer
support from a company. Garmin now has a customer for life.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A Slider Instrument Panel |
>
> How does one go about marking the Instrument panel for trimming to fit
> properly under the forward top skin? I have used a straight edge and
> laid on top of the firewall and f6105 subpanel and marked the back of
> the instrument panel, but am afraid to start cutting.
You're right on track (at least it's what I did). However, I first
fabricated an entire instrument panel out of 3/16" plywood, to make sure
the cut was right.
I also printed out my Panel Planner layouts and taped them to the plywood,
to verify instrument and control layouts before cutting metal.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Strobes- candlepower...this ought to do it... |
I tried once to figure out how I might compare a position light I designed and
built with a factory one. Not easy. I see the Whelen stuff in ACS catalog but
have little faith in requirements as set forth by vendors. How do candlepower,
lumens, candela, joules etc interchange? They don't much. For sure not joules
as that is a measure of juice, not of light.
Best bet I guess is to get something that is *ACCEPTABLE TO THE ADMINISTRATOR*
-
as usual. Since the FAA speak is candlepower, better be sure to get
candlepower.
hal
>
> It would seem these are fine for our use (EXP catagory), but an a/c like the
> Columbia 300 can't use 'em (new TC). The person I spoke with earlier couldn't
> understand what the heck I wanted with the CP info, and she kept saying that
1
> joule= 100,000 CP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Drilling wing ribs |
Has any of you used the method of match drilling the main wing ribs and
nose ribs that is illustrated in "18 Years of RVator", page 47. I was
wondering if it was worth the effort.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6a...working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity Stick Grips |
>
>Has anyone used the military style Infinity grips?
I have one in Suzie Q and wouldn't have anything else. It just FITS my hand
and is very functional. I have the landing and taxi lights, PTT, frequency
change, channel change and push to ident wired. Also seems to be well-build.
He went through several manufacuturers until he found one that produced what
he designed. I think they will probably have a booth at OSH.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Trim cable cover on left elevator |
Was admiring the left elevator and thought I would attach the
trim(manual) cable cover since I hadn't tried it on yet. The screws are
real tight. Those babies get so tight about half way in, they generate
heat! It's like the screws get fatter near the top!! I used my squeezer
to install the nutplate rivets and made sure the threaded hole wasn't
upset. Anybody experience that???
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6a..wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Val-Com Radio |
> I am going to buying my radios and instruments for my RV-8 at Oshkosh. Does
> anyone have any experience with the Val-Com radio? At $695, or $725 with
> prewired harness, it seems hard to beat, especially since I am planning on
> dual radios. Are they reliable?
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 #544
> Riveting Fuse Skins;
Von,
Been using one for 6 years, never failed me, out-talked a lot of radios I've
seen. I went to Bluffton, Oh and talked to Bob Graf in Rochester, In (over 100
nm
away) and it sounded like he was right next to me. If it weren't so I wouldn't
say so.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>dear scott mcdanials,
>i've been playing with that free rv6 cg calculator and realize that my
>plane
>will gross out about 1800lbs. with fuel, passenger, and luggage. is
>this
>acceptable?
The approved gross weight for the RV-6 is 1600 lbs.
The aerobatic gross weight is 1475 lbs It is at this weight that the
airplane is approved for fligth at up to 6 G's
If your airplane was at 1800 lbs you would now be limited to approxomatly
4.9 G's.
4.9 G's may still sound like a lot but it is very easy to induce 3 to 4
G's; then throw in a hard bump from turbulance, etc and you can be in
trouble.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder fairing light |
Craig,
I can tell you how I mounted my tail light. I cut out a piece of 3/16" model
aircraft plywood the shape of the base of the tail light. This shape should
match the fiberglass fairing. I then cut a hole in the ply large enough to
fit the light shaft. I then drilled the light mounting holes in the ply. I
bought two blind "T" nuts from my local hobby store. These nuts will mount on
the inside of the ply. I epoxied the ply to the inside of the fiberglass
opening being careful not to get any glue in the blind nuts (a bit of vaseline
will protect the nuts). After painting you simply mount the light to the
wooden mount. Some loctite will ensure the bolts remain in place.
Rick McBride
RV-6 N523JC
RV-8 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy tack rivets and procedure |
>I'm ready to start riveting my canopy to the frame but have a few concerns.
>The manual says to put several rivets in to `hold' the canopy against the
>base tubing ......
Hey, Marc: I used two methods of holding the glass in place. One was good
old fashioned Clecos. The other were the screws that are called out for
instead of the rivets (I can't remember the size right off). These fit
snugly enough in holes in the frame to keep the glass in place (#30 bit) and
you didn't have to drill anything out near the ONE thing you don't want to
nick: The Big Plastic.
As I remember (I've blocked this and the cowling out of my memory), I laid
the glass on the frame, snugged it into place with some twine, and duct
taped it to the frame to get it to conform. I had the frame already marked
where I wanted the holes and, looking through the glass, marked the glass
where the holes would go. I then CAREFULLY drilled the glass (and did all
the hole prep stuff) and then drilled through the glass holes (which were
larger) to tap the frame, #40 drill first, clecoing as I went along, front
to back. Then I went back and enlarged the holes to #30, adjusting the
centering as I went along. I got close to a perfect fit, but not before I
had to split the frame in the rear area (not close enough fit for me) and
had my aluminum-welding neighbor put it back together. THEN, to lay the side
skins up without sticking up, I put in the countersunk screws rather than
the rivets, putting Clecos every 2nd or 3rd hole. This held it into place
well enough to allow the skins to lay flat and THEN I drilled the skins.
Which may have been the most fun of all. (Here's the secret method I used to
find the holes in the side skins: After the temporary screws were in, I
taped the side skins in place and, with a slightly sharpened #40 hole
finder, put the pin of the hole finder in the Phillips cross of the screw
and drilled the skin, later enlarging them to #30.)
I was going to use the screws in final assembly but heard too many stories
about spinning rivnuts and such, and the rivets worked grand. I have 4
screws in, two at the end of the front canopy fairing (fiberglass) to help
keep it in place and two at the very back to help secure a section of the
side skins I slipped into place; they are held in with nuts on the back side
of the frame.
All this took about half an hour.
Just kidding. I had to hide all the hammers and blunt objects so I wouldn't
take them to the canopy and be done with it: an open cockpit RV-4. Could
work. Be a lttle breezy, maybe.
Good luck with yours. They DO go on; I've seen 'em.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Canopy down and locked.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | battery ground for RV4 |
I have my battery between the 402 ribs up front and I'm wondering just where
and what size cable I should use to ground it. I'm would guess one of the
center bolts from the engine mount.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 0360 oil sump for sale |
I have a rear mount oil sump for sale, will take 400.00 plus shipping.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel gauges for sale |
right out of the catalog, 2 for 30.00 ship cod (pn 8690)
carey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
<< 1475 lbs >>
Scott, shouldn't you trade the 4 for a 3??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
>
>
>Was admiring the left elevator and thought I would attach the
>trim(manual) cable cover since I hadn't tried it on yet. The screws are
>real tight. Those babies get so tight about half way in, they generate
>heat! It's like the screws get fatter near the top!! I used my squeezer
>to install the nutplate rivets and made sure the threaded hole wasn't
>upset. Anybody experience that???
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>-6a..wings
>
>
Jerry,
Try running a screw in and out of the nutplate once or twice and it should
loosen up a bit. I even stripped the head on one trying to get them in the
first time. You might even try a little lube when you first run them in
and out. Hope this helps!
Bill Pagan
80555(A) wing things
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << These prices are complete (even alternator and NEW slick mags) and
> Outright..yes outright (no core) >>
> Do these engines come with pink slips? and if yes, would they be considered
> certified engines in the U.S?
>
My engine did not come with a pink slip. However, it's my understanding
that once you hang a certified motor on a homebuilt it becomes
non-certified. If this is true then a pink slip is worthless.
As far as cost goes, you might find a better deal, but here in
Florida I looked for three years and could not.
I got my engine, an O320E2A from Bart via Eustace Bowhay. It has been
cranked up but has not flow yet. It was everything I was promised
and runs great
I asked around about Bart and Eustace, everthing came up very positive.
Talking with Eustace left no doubt this engine was a great deal and
Backed by people with integrity. I knew I was not going to have to
send Bruno cross country to tear off anyones kneecaps.
I will buy another engine from Bart/Eustace for my next RV.
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
calverjl(at)flash.net wrote:
> Was admiring the left elevator and thought I would attach the
> trim(manual) cable cover since I hadn't tried it on yet. The screws are
> real tight. Those babies get so tight about half way in, they generate
> heat! It's like the screws get fatter near the top!! I used my squeezer
> to install the nutplate rivets and made sure the threaded hole wasn't
> upset. Anybody experience that???
Yup. Don't tell anyone, but I actually snapped one of those screws! I
guess there was still about 1/8" of screw shank sticking out the hole
at the time. I thought I'd just been some kind of careless klutz in
the way I'd put it together. I'll have to drill out the rivets and
nutplate one of these days.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: battery ground for RV4 |
That will work fine as long as it grounds the airframe
eng mount and eng. #4 cable works fine.
RVer273sb RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Harrellace(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I hav a navaid a/p , the dam thing has never worked like it should . you get
> what you pay for . N7470U RV6
>
May I suggest that maybe you don't know how to hook it up, every one
that I know that has one likes it includeing me, I love the way mine
works.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> After a detailed discussion with Ken from Van's regarding engines, he
> told
> me of a gentleman name Bart Lalonde in Canada who has been building
> lycomings for homebuilders for 20 years....
>
> He will also put NEW cylinders on your engine for $1000. more.
Went there last month and spoke to Bart who gave me a tour of his
facility. Shall be getting my engine from him[with new cyliders].Friend
of mine recently purchased IO360 from him,no problems with customs
getting it across border .
Derek Reed RV6A Fus.Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 Tip-up lift strut kit.
This kit calls for Bi-directional cloth. I am having trouble locating
this item in the Aircraft Spruce Catalog. The standard cloths listed
don't seem to mention whether or not they are bidirectional. Any
sugestions to a fiberglass novice?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuse Jig Available; Oregon |
I expect to remove my fuse from the jig in the next week or so, and will have
the jig available. It is straight and true, made of dry lumber, and comes
apart into 2 sections to haul in a pickup. Located 1 mile off I-5 in Salem.
Would like $95.00 for it, have reciepts for 145.00 for materials alone. For
those just starting, I also will include all other jigs for the tail, tanks,
wings, etc. at no charge with the fuse jig.
Von Alexander
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
RE: flocked cotton fiber (FLOX)
Is an epoxy resin/flox mixture sandable after it cures?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question |
Sydney,
I'm not sure about what happens in the USA, but you can recover most of the
cost of your tools after the project. Buy good quality tools only!! (Avery,
Cleavland, Brown) Here is Australia if there is just a hint of a finished
project, new builders start hovering around. Same for used engines.
Find someone to help and see if you like the work.
Buy a 'starting tool kit' from one of the above and the tail kit from Vans.
Or you could try to find someone else has done just this, but didn't enjoy
the building and buy their stuff.
Best of luck
Royce Craven
RV-6A Engine & No I keeping the tools.
Melbourne Oz
>
> Hello, I'm considering buying a RV6a kit at the start of 1999. I am a
>ful time student (ie. just above poor). I know you much get this a
>thousand times but what is the total cost:
>
> Tools
> Bare minium avionics/instruments
> paint/seat
> TEST FLIGHT
> misc. engine parts because it's actually cost
> etc.
>
>ESP the cost of tools, as I do not currently own any ^_^
>
> Thanks in Advance
> Sydney
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Howard Williamson <skybolt(at)mail.erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
jerry calvert wrote:
>
>
> Was admiring the left elevator and thought I would attach the
> trim(manual) cable cover since I hadn't tried it on yet. The screws are
> real tight. Those babies get so tight about half way in, they generate
> heat! It's like the screws get fatter near the top!! I used my squeezer
> to install the nutplate rivets and made sure the threaded hole wasn't
> upset. Anybody experience that???
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6a..wings
>
Jerry:
I usually chase the threads of tight nutplates with a tap. The screws
go in much easier and the nutplates still provide adequate grip. Try
only one first and see if it meets your requirements.
Howard Williamson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
Scott, my manual for the 6 on page 15-22 says aerobatic weight is 1375
lbs(thirteen seventy five) Not 1475 !!! Regards, Brian
> The approved gross weight for the RV-6 is 1600 lbs.
> The aerobatic gross weight is 1475 lbs It is at this weight that the
> airplane is approved for fligth at up to 6 G's
> If your airplane was at 1800 lbs you would now be limited to approxomatly
> 4.9 G's.
> 4.9 G's may still sound like a lot but it is very easy to induce 3 to 4
> G's; then throw in a hard bump from turbulance, etc and you can be in
> trouble.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Strobes |
<< Yes, the 400cp is for new tc aircraft and No we do not sell our kits to
these markets. If a new plane is recently built but to old tc specs (
most are) then the 100cp is fine. >>
But not for legal night flying in a new experimental. Only legal for an a/c
(it matters not whether or not it is type certificated or experimental) whose
airworthiness certificate and operating limitations was issued before Aug 11,
1971.
This confusion factor among the experimental crowd is what Aeroflash bases its
marketing on, but I'm sure some of you will try them and get away with them,
but don't say you weren't informed.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder fairing light |
<< I have the fairing with the provision for the nav light.
I need to know how to attach the light to the fairing? >>
Rivnuts.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Bart Lalonde's E-mail? |
I too am actively looking for an engine for my RV-8 (located in Oregon) and
was wondering if anybody knows Bart Lalonde's e-mail address? Or failing that,
a fax #?
Thanks.
Von Alexander
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ferry Permit |
>Can someone tell me how to go about getting a ferry permit (or if one is even
>necessary) to fly an experimental that is out of conditional inspection to
>another location? Am guessing a call to the local FAA office? Any help
>appreciated.
>Von Alexander
>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
As mentioned by others, visit your local FSDO and request the "ferry
permit". The only catch is that you cannot get a ferry permit to ferry a
plane from a remote location *TO* you if you will cross FSDO borders. In
other words, if you need to ferry the plane from Chicago to Denver, you
can't get the permit from the Denver FSDO, you must get it from the Chicago
FSDO.
Some FSDOs will have the form on hand to request the permit, others will
just write out the pink slip and hand it to you. Normally you get an A&P
to state that the plane is in a condition for safe flight, and that there
are no maintenance issues which might present a danger to ground pounders.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Strobes- candlepower...this ought to do it... |
<< How do candlepower,
lumens, candela, joules etc interchange? They don't much. For sure not
joules
as that is a measure of juice, not of light. >>
One joule is one watt per second and what you do with that energy over time is
the question. It depends on how much power is there, how fast it discharges
and how much light is produced (much as a power amp, impedance matching and
speaker size can be varied to make more sound). A small xenon bulb has little
surface area and gas volume to work with. It's analogous to increasing
effective speaker diameter. If you have less power to start, you need a huge
bulb to get the same light output.
Did you ever wonder why the Whelen strobe lamps have a half hitch in them?
It's an attempt to get more radiating surface to meet the 400 effective candle
requirement. With the 16-6-6-6 joule comet flash arrangement on the Whelen
single power supplies and their small bulbs they produce 400 effective
candles. You can't trick physics. 100 is not 400, no way, day use only. End
of story.
It reminds me of the old days when you couldn't compare stereo systems because
each manufacturer claimed different power units.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6/6A Slider Instrument Panel |
<< How does one go about marking the Instrument panel for trimming to fit
properly under the forward top skin? I have used a straight edge and
laid on top of the firewall and f6105 subpanel and marked the back of
the instrument panel, but am afraid to start cutting. >>
You've done well so far. The skin will lay flat against the three surfaces,
but trim a little outside the line and recheck. Slowly home in on it so that
a straight edge moved in a consistent fashion from longeron to longeron hits
all the surfaces simultaneously.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip Up and FLOX |
>Is an epoxy resin/flox mixture sandable after it cures?
Well yes, and no. It depends on your deinition of "sandable". It is MUCH
harder to sand than the MICRO filled epoxy. I wouldn't want to have to
sand any large areas of FLOX filled epoxy, but touching up small areas
before painting, etc. won't be that big of a deal.
>This kit calls for Bi-directional cloth. I am having trouble locating
>this item in the Aircraft Spruce Catalog. The standard cloths listed
>don't seem to mention whether or not they are bidirectional. Any
>sugestions to a fiberglass novice?
>-Glenn Gordon
Look in the CM section at the front for "Rutan Fiberglass Cloths". The
Bi-Directional cloth is P/N RA7725 and is 8.8 oz/yd with 38" width. (Old
price is $4.15/yd.)
Essentially all standard fiberglass cloth is "Bi-Directional" however
because of Burt Rutan's methods being so popular with the plastic plane
crowd, the term "Bi" is reserved for only RA7725.
For the novice, visit a friend building a plastic plane (check around your
EAA Chapter, there are lots of these misguided souls who don't know that
God intended for aircraft to be made out of Aluminum). Help with one
lay-up. Come home and feel glad that Van has seen fit to keep composite
work to a minimum on the RVs!
Please no flames from anyone with a plastic plane. I built substantial
parts of 2 Dragonflies and a Glass Goose with local builders, and I really
like being able to set the rivet gun down and pick up a sandwich or cool
drink rather than have "sticky stuff" up to both elbows.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
> Bart Lalonde in Canada who has been building
> lycomings for homebuilders for 20 years....
> I have since placed an order for one of his 0-320-D1A engines
> his prices are:
> 0-320 $12,100
> 0-360 $15,700
>
> These prices are complete (even alternator and NEW slick mags) and
> Outright..yes outright (no core)
These prices must have had different levels of new parts, and overstate the
price difference between 320 and 360 engines from Bart. With the same
amount of new stuff (ECI crank, cylinders, etc.), the price difference is
only USD 1000 between the two (per Bart in June).
Alex Peterson - expecting Bart's O360 in September
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << These prices are complete (even alternator and NEW slick mags) and
> Outright..yes outright (no core) >>
> Do these engines come with pink slips? and if yes, would they be
> considered
> certified engines in the U.S?
According to Bart these engines are for experimental aircraft only. He
explains why in that he strips down engines[more than one] checks the
parts for compliance to factory rebuild limits and essentially rebuilds
from a collection of parts. This differs from a certified engine[which
they can also supply] in that the certified engine keeps it's original
parts,crankcase etc. retains it's original data plate,which in essence
gives you traceable history, they are also more expensive and require a
run out core.The engines for experimentals have new data plates but are
not certified to go into a 'spam can'[like my Mooney!] I would not
hesitate to purchase one for my RV [when it's finished] as both engines
are rebuilt to the same standards. Barts facility is in Kamloops BC.
Derek Reed
> According to Bart these engines are for
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tien Luan Do <wizard(at)tartarus.uwa.edu.au> |
Hey Guys
Just having some problems with the W625 and aileron mounts (inboard one).
The W625 has been drilled with 4 holes at 1" spacing. The rivets are
flush head rivets.
Any ideas as to how to fix this.
I am thinking of drilling the outer two rivets out and then drilling the
additional three holes. So I will end up with seven holes.
any ideas appreciated.
Tien
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde's E-mail? |
MAlexan533(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I too am actively looking for an engine for my RV-8 (located in
> Oregon) and
> was wondering if anybody knows Bart Lalonde's e-mail address? Or
> failing that,
> a fax #?
> Thanks.
> Von Alexander
> MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Phone No. [250] 376-2955 Fax [250] 376-1995 No E mail to my
knowledgeAddress: 2965 Airport Drive,Kamloops, B.C. V2B 7W8
>
>
>
> --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
>
> These prices must have had different levels of new parts, and overstate
the
> price difference between 320 and 360 engines from Bart...
Alex,
I was told the O-360's get new cranks, while the O-320's get
serviceable/rebuilt cranks.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q...powered by O-320 from Bart...and an Allegro M816 to
monitor its health).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Grover" <dgrover(at)fc.net> |
What is the:
1. gross wt.
2. aerobatic wt.
3. and the expected empty wt. of the RV-8.
Also please confirm that the RV-8 is designed to +/- 6 g's with an ultimate
load of +/- 9 g's.
David Grover
RV-8 (waiting on the wings to arrive)
Friendswood, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling wing ribs |
has any of you used the method of match drilling the main wing ribs and
> nose ribs that is illustrated in "18 Years of RVator", page 47. I was
> wondering if it was worth the effort.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6a...working on wings
>
Jerry - I used that method with great success. You will need to use the 12" drill
bit to be able to line up straight. Once the pair are drilled, mark them as pairs
so you don't spend time figuring out which goes to which. I made a jig out of .063
angle with the hole spacing drilled into one side of the angle. Clamp the
un-drilled side of the angle to the work bench - or cleco it down - the then hold
the nose rib up to the jig and drill the holes. Then side clamp the nose & main
rib together and back drill through the holes you just made in the nose rib. Cleco
the ribs together as you go to prevent shifting parts. Now you are ready to back
drill the main rib to the main spar. All three pieces will fit together now.
Hope this helps
DGM -RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
>
>I asked around about Bart and Eustace, everthing came up very positive.
>Talking with Eustace left no doubt this engine was a great deal and
>Backed by people with integrity. I knew I was not going to have to
>send Bruno cross country to tear off anyones kneecaps.
>I will buy another engine from Bart/Eustace for my next RV.
>
>Craig Hiers
I just want to say I've known Eustace and his friend Ken Hoshowski for
about 8 years now. I would literally trust either of them with any amount
of money. Anything Eustace says is completely true with no reservations.
If I was in the market for an engine I would trust them completely.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
Seattle WA USA
1974 1/2 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/14/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
jerry calvert wrote:
. The screws are real tight. Those babies get so tight about half way in, they
generate heat!
Jerry,
Your right, the screws do get real tight. That is how the nutplate is designed.
This keeps the screws from backing out. Look at a nutplate and you will see that
the hole is squeezed shut. Try putting some BoeLube (from Avery's) or some other
thread lube and they will go in real nice and easy without spalling and breaking
off.
Gary Zilik
6A fitting fuselage top fwd skin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
>jerry calvert wrote:
>. The screws are real tight. Those babies get so tight about half way
in, they
>generate heat!
>
I've found that simple Beeswax works wonders for tight nutplates.
Boelube is also great stuff. The wax can be found at Tandy leather
stores, for mere pocket change.
Brian Denk
-8 #379
fuselage ships this week!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
un-subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>RE: RV-6 Tip-up lift strut kit.
>
>This kit calls for Bi-directional cloth. I am having trouble locating
>this item in the Aircraft Spruce Catalog. The standard cloths
>listed
>don't seem to mention whether or not they are bidirectional. Any
>sugestions to a fiberglass novice?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>
Most any typical glass cloth that you would buy will be Bidirectional.
Meaning that it is woven just like regular cloth in that it has fibers
interwoven with each other that are 90 deg to each other (strands running
in 2 (Bi) different directions.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv8 vs 4 or 6 |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
><< 1475 lbs >>
>Scott, shouldn't you trade the 4 for a 3??
>
>
>
Yup, your right. I should be more careful posting #'s off the top of my
head ( especially #'s that I should no)
So to correct my original post...
If you fly your RV-6 at 1800 pounds gross, you have reduced your safe G
load factor to approximately 4.5 G's.
This is not an exact #. Just something to use for reference because
there are many different factors that figure in to the equation.
This number is being calculated in the following way.
At 1375 lbs pulling 6 G's the wing structure feels 8250 lbs
(1375 X 6)
Since we know that 6 G's at an aerobatic gross weight of 1375 is the
maximum load the wings are meant to be loaded to (which is 8250 lbs) you
can divide 8250 by the new actual gross weight of 1800 lbs.
and you get 4.583333 G's. This is how many G's at a gross of 1800 lbs.
will load the wings to the maximum allowed load of 8250 lbs.
Remember, because of other factors involved (which I don't know much
about, maybe someone else?) this is only an approximate #.
I thought the #'s looked to good in my other post even though I used an
1800 lb gross weight.
My sincere apologies. The last thing I want to do is pass incorrect
information to the list.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
>
>
>>
>>RE: RV-6 Tip-up lift strut kit.
>>
>>This kit calls for Bi-directional cloth. I am having trouble locating
>>this item in the Aircraft Spruce Catalog. The standard cloths
>>listed
>>don't seem to mention whether or not they are bidirectional. Any
>>sugestions to a fiberglass novice?
>>
>>-Glenn Gordon
>>
>Most any typical glass cloth that you would buy will be Bidirectional.
>Meaning that it is woven just like regular cloth in that it has fibers
>interwoven with each other that are 90 deg to each other (strands running
>in 2 (Bi) different directions.
Glenn,
.... another option is to buy a package (10 ft for about $8) of
WEST Episize 4 inch wide Biaxial Tape. It is a tape made up of two layers
of cloth (7.5 oz per layer) fabricated at a +/- 45 degree angle to the tape
direction, and held together with a light stiching. Laying up cloth with
the strands oriented this way makes for a more twist-resistant structure.
This tape should be available at your local marine supply store
that sells you your WEST system epoxies. It's WEST part # is 727 "Episize
Biaxial Tape". If you have to buy some tape, this is a good choice ... and
you laminate twice as fast....:^)
... Gil (it's a neat tape and not expensive) Alexander
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
<< The Ellison is a bit pricey, I think
somewhere around $800-900 for one that fits a Lycoming, which is still
cheaper than fuel injection for essentially the same kind of
performance. >>
Bill,
I think its been a while since youve priced one. The cost was higher
when I purchased mine 8 years ago. At any rate I like mine to. I went on a
trip not to long ago with Stew B (273sb) who has the Airflow performance
system, we flew together for 28 hrs of flying time. I had my wife on board, he
was solo. On average I burned about a gallon per hour more. Especially on
segments that required extended climb time. I would guess that if I were solo
the burn would be the same. I came back from a fly in at El Dorado KS this
weekend with the wife on board and ran at 2400rpm and burned 6.7 gallons per
hour@ 6500'. Not to shabby for 2.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY |
<< If it's a Powersonic product then it is indeed a gas-recombinant
battery with technology similar to the RG batteries offered
by Concord and B&C. Can you tell me what it weighs? >>
I can only guess. I would say around 20lbs.
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulleys |
The solid billet 4 inch aluminum pullies are available from Alloy Cutting in
Redwood City California . 1 650 363 1601, They are CNC machined from 6061
T6 . the bore is 15mm and there is no keyway....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
Buy ordinary cloth and cut it into diagonal strips.
----------
> From: Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net>
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Tip Up
> Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 10:32 AM
>
>
> Hi,
>
> RE: RV-6 Tip-up lift strut kit.
>
> This kit calls for Bi-directional cloth. I am having trouble locating
> this item in the Aircraft Spruce Catalog. The standard cloths listed
> don't seem to mention whether or not they are bidirectional. Any
> sugestions to a fiberglass novice?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris & Tammy Edwards <cte(at)csi.com> |
I had one faxed to me, with nothing more than a phone call.
Chris Edwards
RV-8 QB
Akron, OH AKA Teague, TX
cte(at)csi.com
>
>Can someone tell me how to go about getting a ferry permit (or if one is
even
>necessary) to fly an experimental that is out of conditional inspection to
>another location? Am guessing a call to the local FAA office? Any help
>appreciated.
>Von Alexander
>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling wing ribs |
Jerry,
I used essentially the same method illustrated in RVator. I created a drill
template for the hole pattern, cut the nose and main rib outlines out of a one
1/2" thick sheet of partical board place on top of a second sheet. The process
was slap a nose and main rib in the depressions, place the drill hole template
arcross the flange where the ribs join, clamp together with one of those quick
release clamps and drill.
Not only is it quicker in the long run, you now have a hole pattern in the ribs
that will not inadvertenly have you drilling into the spar webs, AND almost any
of
the ribs will fit at any station along the spar.
Given the hassel of trying to match up the ribs correctly to the spar and drill
through the ribs and spar and the rib on the other side and not inadvertenly drill
into a spar web, I think this is the way to go.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
anderson_ed(at)bah.com
Vienna, VA
jerry calvert wrote:
>
> Has any of you used the method of match drilling the main wing ribs and
> nose ribs that is illustrated in "18 Years of RVator", page 47. I was
> wondering if it was worth the effort.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6a...working on wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde's E-mail? |
Bart's address is as follows:
Bart LaLonde
Pro Aero Engines, Inc.
2965 Airport Dr.
Kamloops, BC V2B7W8
250-376-1223
250-376-1995 (fax)
I just received a 180hp IO360 from Bart and am very impressed. By the way,
Bart is bulding an -8.
----------
> From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Bart Lalonde's E-mail?
> Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 11:19 PM
>
>
> I too am actively looking for an engine for my RV-8 (located in Oregon)
and
> was wondering if anybody knows Bart Lalonde's e-mail address? Or failing
that,
> a fax #?
> Thanks.
> Von Alexander
> MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James A. Tillman" <till3(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fuse Jig Available; Oregon |
howdy, would you deliver it free to newnan, georgia? ;}
jim tillman/chris landry
rv8 80655, on wings
-----Original Message-----
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com <MAlexan533(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 10:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Fuse Jig Available; Oregon
>
>I expect to remove my fuse from the jig in the next week or so, and will
have
>the jig available. It is straight and true, made of dry lumber, and comes
>apart into 2 sections to haul in a pickup. Located 1 mile off I-5 in Salem.
>Would like $95.00 for it, have reciepts for 145.00 for materials alone. For
>those just starting, I also will include all other jigs for the tail,
tanks,
>wings, etc. at no charge with the fuse jig.
>Von Alexander
>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
>What is the:
>1. gross wt.
>2. aerobatic wt.
>3. and the expected empty wt. of the RV-8.
>Also please confirm that the RV-8 is designed to +/- 6 g's with an ultimate
>load of +/- 9 g's.
Per section 14 of the preview plans manual:
Recommended Gross Weight - 1800 lbs
Aerobatic Gross Weight - 1550 lbs
________________________________________________________________________________
Empty Weight - 1076 lbs (Kitplanes annual listing said 1090 lbs)
G loading is a good question I guess. You always see the 6 and 9 numbers, but
I'm thinking that's really +6 -4, and +9 -6. I'm sure this is listed somewhere,
but I can't find it now. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong about
this.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (for sale)
RV-8A, 80587 (wings)
rad(at)pcola.gulf.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
>I was told the O-360's get new cranks, while the O-320's get
>serviceable/rebuilt cranks.
Yes, this is true....for now...mainly because there is a shortage of cranks
for 0-360, so they have to go new, thus the large price difference
Paul Besing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
Craig Hiers wrote:
> My engine did not come with a pink slip. However, it's my understanding
> that once you hang a certified motor on a homebuilt it becomes
> non-certified. If this is true then a pink slip is worthless.
Not true.
Have your certificated engine's logs kept up to date by an A&P/AI, and
you will be able to remove the engine and sell it to someone who needs
an engine for the appropriate certificated airplane if necessary.
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | AV-8 Engine Monitor |
I am considering the purchase of a AV-8 Voice Alerting Engine Monitor by Audio
Flight Avionics for my RV-8. It seems to be an excellent value. How about
some opinions and experiences with it?
Thanks.
Von Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbabell(at)mediaone.net |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
jerry calvert wrote:
>
> Was admiring the left elevator and thought I would attach the
> trim(manual) cable cover since I hadn't tried it on yet. The screws are
> real tight. Those babies get so tight about half way in, they generate
> heat! It's like the screws get fatter near the top!! I used my squeezer
> to install the nutplate rivets and made sure the threaded hole wasn't
> upset. Anybody experience that???
Jerry,
I had the same problem with the screws in my fuel tank access panel. They
were so tight I actually got a blister on my hand screwing them in. I
think a little Proseal in the nutplates was the main problem, but, as
you say, they can be difficult to deal with even without Proseal in
the threads. I solved the problem after some off-line experimentation with
nutplates using an 8-32 tap. I found that I had to be very careful not to
thread the tap too far into the nutplate or I would make it too loose. I
never tried Boelube, but I will next time. If Boelube works as advertised,
it would be a lot safer than using a tap.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
I just visited Ellison's web page yesterday. The statement was made that
under no circumstances do they recommend using mogas with their TBI system.
Mogas is the whole reason I kept the low compression pistons at rebuild
(though I have yet to burn any), so this concludes my consideration of this
option as a fix for the "carburetor blues."
Bill Boyd
RV-6A western VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
In a message dated 7/8/98 11:04:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
sbuc(at)traveller.com writes:
> Have your certificated engine's logs kept up to date by an A&P/AI, and
> you will be able to remove the engine and sell it to someone who needs
> an engine for the appropriate certificated airplane if necessary.
I very much doubt that anyone would purchase a used engine from a homebuilt to
hang on the family C-172. If you are looking for an engine for your RV, worry
more about the quality of the overhaul then the pedigree of the paperwork. If
Van's is recommending an engine overhauler I have to believe that the work of
that shop is top notch.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AV-8 Engine Monitor |
I have the AV-8 in my -6, which is not flying yet. If I had to do it
over, I would spend the extra money and get the AV-10. Also, it took 3
months before I got my unit; they were having problems with the lcd
display vendors. The unit is of very high quality construction and it
is very easy to set up. The guys as Audio Flight Avionics are very
helpful. So far, I am very satisfied with the unit as far as
features/price goes, and it is really easy to hook up. I did a cost
analysis and figured out the AV-8 comes out the same in price as all the
analog gauges it replaces when you include the probes, senders, etc.
Frees up a lot of room in the panel, and best of all, it talks to you!
I really like the female "Bitchin Betty" voice warnings that fighter
jocks are familiar with.
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
Senior Technical Analyst, MCSE
ImageMax, Inc.
Carmel, IN
bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
-----Original Message-----
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com [mailto:MAlexan533(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 9:25 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: AV-8 Engine Monitor
I am considering the purchase of a AV-8 Voice Alerting
Engine Monitor by Audio
Flight Avionics for my RV-8. It seems to be an
excellent value. How about
some opinions and experiences with it?
Thanks.
Von Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
>>Also please confirm that the RV-8 is designed to +/- 6 g's with an ultimate
>>load of +/- 9 g's.
>
>G loading is a good question I guess. You always see the 6 and 9 numbers,
but
>I'm thinking that's really +6 -4, and +9 -6. I'm sure this is listed
somewhere,
>but I can't find it now. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong
about
>this.
>
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (for sale)
>RV-8A, 80587 (wings)
>rad(at)pcola.gulf.net
>
>
I beleive that Van uses the FAR 23 minimum design requirements for
aerobatic aircraft in this area. FAR 23.337 requires aerobatic category
aircraft to be designed for +6 and -3 g, with a 1.5 factor of safety, which
translates to ultimate loads of +9 and -4.5 g, all at the max weight for
aerobatics of 1550 lb.
Please not that the area between the design and the ultimate loads is not
meant to be used. It is there to cover a number of sins including minor
design and construction errors, hitting turbulence while at the design
load, etc. Anyone who plans on deliberately operating in that area is
asking for a failure.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (working on LH elevator & wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot stuck in Wichita instead of home working
Transport Canada on the RV :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marc DeGirolamo <mdee(at)dlcwest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy tack rivets and procedure |
>
>>I'm ready to start riveting my canopy to the frame but have a few concerns.
>>The manual says to put several rivets in to `hold' the canopy against the
>>base tubing ......
>
>Hey, Marc: I used two methods of holding the glass in place. One was good
>old fashioned Clecos. The other were the screws that are called out for
>instead of the rivets (I can't remember the size right off). These fit
>snugly enough in holes in the frame to keep the glass in place (#30 bit) and
>you didn't have to drill anything out near the ONE thing you don't want to
>nick: The Big Plastic.
>
>As I remember (I've blocked this and the cowling out of my memory), I laid
>the glass on the frame, snugged it into place with some twine, and duct
>taped it to the frame to get it to conform. I had the frame already marked
>where I wanted the holes and, looking through the glass, marked the glass
>where the holes would go. I then CAREFULLY drilled the glass (and did all
>the hole prep stuff) and then drilled through the glass holes (which were
>larger) to tap the frame, #40 drill first, clecoing as I went along, front
Why not drill the # 30 holes through the canopy and into the tubing in one
operation...?
>to back. Then I went back and enlarged the holes to #30, adjusting the
>centering as I went along. I got close to a perfect fit, but not before I
>had to split the frame in the rear area (not close enough fit for me) and
>had my aluminum-welding neighbor put it back together.
I was wondering that to.....did you have to bring the rear of the frame
closer together..? I cut and re-welded the forward bow to make it fit better
but am kind of reluctant to cut the rear of the frame just yet..
THEN, to lay the side skins up without sticking up, I put in the countersunk
screws rather than the rivets, putting Clecos every 2nd or 3rd hole.
Did you put screws in every hole or just enough to holdit in place..?
This held it into place well enough to allow the skins to lay flat and THEN
I drilled the skins.
>Which may have been the most fun of all. (Here's the secret method I used to
>find the holes in the side skins: After the temporary screws were in, I
>taped the side skins in place and, with a slightly sharpened #40 hole
>finder, put the pin of the hole finder in the Phillips cross of the screw
>and drilled the skin, later enlarging them to #30.)
>So..lets see if I got this right... you drilled all the holes in the
canopy, cleaned them up ,put the canopy back on the frame and drilled the
holes in the tubing, putting screws in to hold it in place , then fitting
the side skins and drilling them on by using your hole finder to get the
holes in the side skins.....is this right ?
>I was going to use the screws in final assembly but heard too many stories
>about spinning rivnuts and such, and the rivets worked grand. I have 4
>screws in, two at the end of the front canopy fairing (fiberglass) to help
>keep it in place and two at the very back to help secure a section of the
>side skins I slipped into place; they are held in with nuts on the back side
>of the frame.
>
>All this took about half an hour.
I've been working 10 min on mine so far then....:-)
>
>Just kidding. I had to hide all the hammers and blunt objects so I wouldn't
>take them to the canopy and be done with it: an open cockpit RV-4. Could
>work. Be a lttle breezy, maybe.
>
>Good luck with yours. They DO go on; I've seen 'em.
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>Canopy down and locked.....
>
>Well thanks Michael...I reallly appreciate your input here. It is always
nice to hear how other guys do things..... can come at it from a little
different angle now.
BTW did your canopy end up about 21 in up from the cockpit rails..? All the
ictures I've seen the canopy looks very close to the rollbar. the way mine
is right now it is more than that, probably about 22 1/4....which is why I
am contemplating cutting the rear tubing so as to lower it a little....but
the bottom line is that it fits well on the frame.
Marc Dee
Marc DeGirolamo
-4 #3289
Saskatoon,SK.
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ian Kerr <ikerr(at)macromedia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
>
>In a message dated 7/8/98 11:04:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>sbuc(at)traveller.com writes:
>
>> Have your certificated engine's logs kept up to date by an A&P/AI, and
>> you will be able to remove the engine and sell it to someone who needs
>> an engine for the appropriate certificated airplane if necessary.
>
>I very much doubt that anyone would purchase a used engine from a homebuilt to
>hang on the family C-172. If you are looking for an engine for your RV, worry
>more about the quality of the overhaul then the pedigree of the paperwork. If
>Van's is recommending an engine overhauler I have to believe that the work of
>that shop is top notch.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
Gary,
I don't think spirit of the orginal message really contradicts your
statement. Certified engines are worth more used, because of the larger
market. How much, I don't know. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to put a
non-certified good engine on an RV, but wouldn't ever plan on selling it
anyway.
-Ian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
RV6junkie(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/98 11:04:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> sbuc(at)traveller.com writes:
>
> > Have your certificated engine's logs kept up to date by an A&P/AI, and
> > you will be able to remove the engine and sell it to someone who needs
> > an engine for the appropriate certificated airplane if necessary.
>
> I very much doubt that anyone would purchase a used engine from a homebuilt to
> hang on the family C-172.
Hmmmmm...guess that would depend on the particular buyer/seller. The
point I was making is that the engine will be legal for use in the
certificated aircraft if desired.
I have a good friend who bought a new Lyc from Van's for his RV6A. He
has ALL engine work performed by an A&P, and maintains the engine
properly. I would have absolutely no qualms about placing his engine in
service in the "family C-172". After all, it has the same (or better)
pedigree and maintenance that the old engine had in the C-172.
If you want to retain maximum value of your certificated engine in an
RV, keep if certificated. This does not mean that noncertificated
engines are unsuitable for RV use if properly built and maintained. But
if the buyer of your RV can see a certificated engine with current
papers, he will most likely be willing to put some additional bills in
your wallet.
If you are looking for an engine for your RV, worry
> more about the quality of the overhaul then the pedigree of the paperwork. If
> Van's is recommending an engine overhauler I have to believe that the work of
> that shop is top notch.
If there is little or no paperwork, you are totally trusting the word of
the overhauler (and I enjoy working with people who are good to their
word....unfortunately, they appear to be a vanishing breed...). If there
*is* paperwork, you either have some traceability or an unscrupulous
overhauler (I have experience with both).
I too have some degree of faith in Van's recommendations; However, a
touch of skepticism can be healthy. If the engine quits, it is I who
gets to drag the plane out of the field, not Van's....
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
<< Those babies get so tight about half way in, they generate
> heat! It's like the screws get fatter near the top!! I used my squeezer
> to install the nutplate rivets and made sure the threaded hole wasn't
> upset. Anybody experience that??? >>
There are a few # 6 nutplates on my plane that eat screws as fast as I feed
them in (on the lower cowl attach hdwe, of all places) and one that has a
broken-off #6 screw init, which I will have to drill out and replace "next
time I have the wing fairing off." You are right about the heat - I've gotten
finger burns when using a cordless screwdriver on these babies! I intend to
try reaming the nutplates a bit looser with a tap next, as I am getting tired
of ordering more # 6 screws from Aircraft Spruce every time I need to remove
an inspection cover.
The # 8's have not been a real problem in this regard.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Release Document, My Final Thoughts? |
| From: | rvinfo(at)Juno.com (Dave Smith) |
Listers,
I had previously posted that the last people to take advice from in this
area is the FAA. I am not intending to be derogatory to FAA personnel,
only to state that they are not experienced in this area of the law.
They may tell you that after you have removed the data plate, or wings or
made a bill of sale for the parts of the plane, etc..... that as far as
they are concerned, it is not an airplane anymore. The problem with that
thinking, is that in a civil trial, no one cares what the FAA's
definition of an airplane is. I think a Plaintiff's lawyer would
successfully keep such information from a jury. If the allegation is
that you hammered the rivets in the spar that came apart, then you will
have some exposure regardless of the above mention tactics that would
satisfy the FAA. That is not too say they are not worth doing, but don't
fool yourself into thinking that because the FAA says it is not an
airplane, that you have no liability exposure.
As someone pointed out, removal of the data plate may reduce the planes
value to the point where you might be better off selling the components
and scrapping the rest. Then again, if you don't have a great deal of
assets, you may not be worried about being sued. Or possibly an umbrella
policy on your homeowners policy would give you the protection that you
need.
The proper course of action will be different for different individuals
and what ever it is, it should be based on accurate information about
what your true exposure could be in the event of a crash. A lawyer
experienced in personal injury (defense) would be able to advise you as
to what your exposure would be.
Best of luck
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | The Mecca of engines! |
I just got a quote for an O-360A1A: $15,200 This was with new mags,
lightwaight starter and an automotive alternator.
I had expected it to be a lot lower. I can buy a core and have it
rebuilt for this price and wind up with a certified engine.
allen
From: "Alex Peterson" [SMTP:alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com] AT MSXGATE on
MSXGATE@CCMAIL
Subject: Re: RV-List: The Mecca of engines!
> Bart Lalonde in Canada who has been building
> lycomings for homebuilders for 20 years....
> I have since placed an order for one of his 0-320-D1A engines
> his prices are:
> 0-320 $12,100
> 0-360 $15,700
>
> These prices are complete (even alternator and NEW slick mags) and
> Outright..yes outright (no core)
These prices must have had different levels of new parts, and
overstate the price difference between 320 and 360 engines from Bart.
With the same amount of new stuff (ECI crank, cylinders, etc.), the
price difference is only USD 1000 between the two (per Bart in June).
Alex Peterson - expecting Bart's O360 in September
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Fuel Pump & Carb |
I have a brand new fuel pump & carburetor (MA-4SPA, PN 10-5217) off of a
new Lycoming 0320 from Van's. I installed fuel injection so I didn't
use them. Will sell each for half of the asking price at AS & S. The
asking price at AS & S for the fuel pump is $186 and for a rebuilt carb
without core is $929. That's a firm price of $93 and $464.50
respectively plus shipping.
Rick Fogerson, rfogerson(at)baf.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
| Subject: | Trim cable cover on left elevator |
Rather than ream them out, take some of the ovalness out. Before I
installed nutplates, I put them in a vise and tried a screw in them. If
they were so tight I couldn't get the screw in without slipping, I took
a vice grip and carefully made the hole slightly more round by squeezing
it until the screw was manageable but still tight. If you can still get
to the end of the installed nutplate, you can try it but take it easy.
Rick Fogerson, RV-6a @ 50 hrs on the hobbs.
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com [mailto:SportAV8R(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trim cable cover on left elevator
<< Those babies get so tight about half way in, they generate
> heat! It's like the screws get fatter near the top!! I intend to
try reaming the nutplates a bit looser with a tap next, as I am getting
tired
of ordering more # 6 screws from Aircraft Spruce every time I need to
remove
an inspection cover.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
>
>I hav a navaid a/p , the dam thing has never worked like it should .you
get
>what you pay for . N7470U RV6
could you indicate what is wrong, I am planning to get one.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | AV-8 Engine Monitor |
ect.com>
What's the FAA stance on these electronic gizmos as part of the required
day VFR instrumentation? If I eguip my day VFR RV with nothing more than a
mag compass, AV-10, RMI uEncoder and fuel quantity gauge Ive met all the
requirements as I understand them, but is the FAA inspector/DAR gonna
cringe when he sees my total reliance on this stuff and refuse to sign me
off? Or is this one of those things that seems to be subject to
interpretation/variation from inspector to inspector?
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>
>I have the AV-8 in my -6, which is not flying yet.
>Bob Japundza
>Senior Technical Analyst, MCSE
>ImageMax, Inc.
>Carmel, IN
>bjapundza@iis-intellect.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Engines, engines, engines |
Fellow Listers:
Just reading the comments about Pro Aero Engines gave me an idea. I would
like to write an article for the MN Wing newsletter on engine options and
reputable engine sources. So I thought I might consult the experts. Might
we get a discussion going on other reputable engine overhaulers and other
sources. For example:
Van's: new Lycomings
Pro Aero Engine: non certified Lycomings
Bolduc Aviation, Minneapolis
Mattituck Engines, New York
I know that many of you have had experiences with a multitude of engine
rebuilders and shops. Some of the information needed would be:
Name
Address
Phone
Certified/non-certified
Facilities
Size of company
Prices
etc. etc. etc
anything else that might seem relevant
Maybe this might be the start of a comprehensive list of recommended engine
sources and/or rebuilders.
Also maybe we should expand this to a list of non-recommended places.
Anyone had any bad experiences?
Many thanks,
Doug
Pres, MN Wing
*******************************************
Doug Weiler, Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Craig Hiers wrote:
>
> > My engine did not come with a pink slip. However, it's my understanding
> > that once you hang a certified motor on a homebuilt it becomes
> > non-certified. If this is true then a pink slip is worthless.
>
> Not true.
>
> Have your certificated engine's logs kept up to date by an A&P/AI, and
> you will be able to remove the engine and sell it to someone who needs
> an engine for the appropriate certificated airplane if necessary.
>
> Sam Buchanan
> sbuc(at)traveller.com
> "The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
>
Sam
I thought I read here on the list that if you put a certified motor
on a homebuilt it will "un-certify" the engine. Oh well , it's not the
first time I've been wrong.
I will say that it's not worth it to me to pay a lot more for
a certified motor, then pay untold amounts of money for A/P maintenance,
just for the off chance I might sell it later as a certified engine.
All of this makes no difference to me, I've got a great engine
For a great plane.
Craig Hiers
N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
Suffering in the Florida heat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling wing ribs |
Douglas G. Murray wrote:
>
>
> has any of you used the method of match drilling the main wing ribs and
>
> > nose ribs that is illustrated in "18 Years of RVator", page 47. I was
> > wondering if it was worth the effort.
> >
> > Jerry Calvert
> > Edmond Ok
> > -6a...working on wings
> >
>
> Jerry - I used that method with great success. You will need to use the 12" drill
> bit to be able to line up straight. Once the pair are drilled, mark them as pairs
> so you don't spend time figuring out which goes to which. I made a jig out of
.063
> angle with the hole spacing drilled into one side of the angle. Clamp the
> un-drilled side of the angle to the work bench - or cleco it down - the then
hold
> the nose rib up to the jig and drill the holes. Then side clamp the nose & main
> rib together and back drill through the holes you just made in the nose rib.
Cleco
> the ribs together as you go to prevent shifting parts. Now you are ready to back
> drill the main rib to the main spar. All three pieces will fit together now.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> DGM -RV-6
>
>
Douglas,
Thanks for sharing the excellent information. This procedure sounds
very workable and I am going to try it.
Jerry Calvert -6a wing stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling wing ribs |
Anderson Ed wrote:
>
>
> Jerry,
> I used essentially the same method illustrated in RVator. I created a drill
> template for the hole pattern, cut the nose and main rib outlines out of a one
> 1/2" thick sheet of partical board place on top of a second sheet. The process
> was slap a nose and main rib in the depressions, place the drill hole template
> arcross the flange where the ribs join, clamp together with one of those quick
> release clamps and drill.
>
> Not only is it quicker in the long run, you now have a hole pattern in the ribs
> that will not inadvertenly have you drilling into the spar webs, AND almost any
of
> the ribs will fit at any station along the spar.
>
> Given the hassel of trying to match up the ribs correctly to the spar and drill
> through the ribs and spar and the rib on the other side and not inadvertenly
drill
> into a spar web, I think this is the way to go.
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW
> anderson_ed(at)bah.com
> Vienna, VA
>
> jerry calvert wrote:
>
> >
> > Has any of you used the method of match drilling the main wing ribs and
> > nose ribs that is illustrated in "18 Years of RVator", page 47. I was
> > wondering if it was worth the effort.
> >
Ed,
You guys amaze me with your ingenuity! Thanks for the advice.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6a...working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Trim tab cover nutplates |
I didn't expect such a grand response to the nutplate issue. Thanks to
all responders. I feel better now and I'm going for the Boelube.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6a wing stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Kimball <flyguy(at)uniserve.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Engines, engines, engines |
President Doug wrote:
> Just reading the comments about Pro Aero Engines gave me an idea. I would
> like to write an article for the MN Wing newsletter on engine options and
> reputable engine sources. So I thought I might consult the experts. Might
> we get a discussion going on other reputable engine overhaulers and other
> sources.
General Motors is a good source, I'm told.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
<19980708.150313.4327.3.donspawn(at)juno.com>
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>>I hav a navaid a/p , the dam thing has never worked like it should
>.you
>get
>>what you pay for . N7470U RV6
>
>
>could you indicate what is wrong, I am planning to get one.
>
>
>Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
>
Don,
The 2 that I have installed worked great. In fact the nav track function
with it coupled to a GPS worked better than I ever imagined it would
considering the price. They even did a great job intercepting a vor from
about 30 deg. off of course and then tracking it dead on (which is not
something they claim it will do; I think they recommend that you be
within about 10 degrees or so).
Like any other auto pilot system it needs to be installed correctly and
probably have some adjustments made. Though I know of a couple of
builders who have had them work right out of the box.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid Wiring Diagram |
Does anyone have the installation wiring diagram for the Navaid that can fax
this to me? Please respond off list....
My fax number is 602-473-7528
Thanks!
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alegro M816 Engine analyzer |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Listers,
>From time to time, i see mention of the Alegro M816 engine analyzer
here. Always acompanied by glowing reports. Can anyone fill me in a
little about this unit or tell me where I can obtain more info. Thanks in
advance.
Bill, RV4, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
Mine has worked like a million bucks since day one, I installed one in a
friends 6A and he loved it too, untill he stacked his six into the trees on
approach to Hunter MT, NY on monday. He walked away, cabin was fully intact,
everything else was junk.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Trim tab cover nutplates |
Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
>I feel better now and I'm going for the Boelube.<
Long ago, my father taught me to put a little soap (Ivory seemed to be the
soap of choice) on a screw before inserting it. Also works on saw blades
and drill bits. It is amazing how close to Boelube it is (Boelube = Ivory
soap?). Soap is much cheaper and readily available at the corner store.
A fellow builder now asks "pass the soap" even when he is using Boelube.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Wing skeleton ready for priming when the rain stops
with a certified prop/engine combination. So, now it only
becomes a matter of how much you expect for the engine should you decide to
sell later, and what you are comfortable with. As for myself, I have a ways
to go before I have these engine decisions to make, and will certainly keep
the information on Bart.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: Fuel Pump & Carb |
| From: | daviddla(at)Juno.com (Blah ba Blah) |
I need help. I am interested in a 0-320 for sale through a private seller
but I don't know if it will fit the RV-6A I am building. It is a 150hp
out of a Super Cub. Does this engine have provisions for a fuel pump?
Will the induction system clear the nose gear? The seller can't provide
much information, but he did read the data plate to me over the phone( we
are 1500 miles apart). The plate reads 1957-27 and 0-320. no other
letters. Also 150hp and 80/87 fuel. I did find out that the carb bolts to
the sump at the bottom rear of the sump . He also knew that the engine
uses conical mounts. Thanks, David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
<< Barts facility is in Kamloops BC. >>
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
Does anyone know the correct spark plug gap on an 0-360 engine?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulleys |
Think you will find on an RV6 c/s (now standard) cowl that anything bigger
than 3.5 inches will cause you problems with the cowl clearance. I do agree
with the bigger pulley though, it stops intercom noise and makes the
brushes and bearings last much longer. We don't need the output most of the
alternators are capable of anyway, and the fan, if you leave it there, is
designed to run the opposite direction to the way we turn it anyhow. I
think van lists one of about 3.5 inches in his cataloque. Brian
> The solid billet 4 inch aluminum pullies are available from Alloy
Cutting in
> Redwood City California . 1 650 363 1601, They are CNC machined from
6061
> T6 . the bore is 15mm and there is no keyway....
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Malone <scottm(at)pld.com> |
I AM LOOKING FOR A BARNARD COWL FOR A RV 6. DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE FOR
SALE? DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO GET AHOLD OF STEVE BARNARD, HAVE E-MAILED
HIM AND THE PHONE # I HAVE FOR HIM DOESN'T WORK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
>
>Hi,
>
>RE: flocked cotton fiber (FLOX)
>
>
>Is an epoxy resin/flox mixture sandable after it cures?
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>
Glenn,
It is sandable but barely. It is used mostly where you're trying
to add some strength. If you're trying to fill a void, I'd use
epoxy and microballoons. This stuff sands pretty easily with just
sandpaper.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 "Special Angel"
Waiting for engine to arrive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | 6/6A Slider Instrument Panel |
I used a foam boardcut to the approximate size, slightly under to fit
into under the top skin. I then took strips of 1" wide card stock and
taped them onto the foam board with the 1" edge against the skin around
the entire perimeter. I then took out the foam board instrument panel
with the card stock extensions and used it as a template to cut the
aluminum instrument panel to the exact size.
Frank Smidler
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> How does one go about marking the Instrument panel for trimming to fit
> properly under the forward top skin? I have used a straight edge and
> laid on top of the firewall and f6105 subpanel and marked the back of
> the instrument panel, but am afraid to start cutting.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A Pondering the trimming of Instrument panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Check out Phil Arter's page. He built his own house.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Disappointed?? NO WAY!! I know I can do this. I've built more intricate
> > projects.
>
> Richard, I'm just curious, but what sort of project can one find that is
> more intricate than a plane? I was hoping that the RV would cover me in
> the project area for life, but am now worried that maybe there is another.
>
> Alex Peterson 6A
> Maple Grove MN
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fixed Rudder Pedal |
Has anyone recieved the new non-adjustable rudder pedal kit from Vans?
Supposedly lighter, easier to install, and you get money back when you return
the other adjustable pedals in the kit. They are still adjustable, just not
quickly. Does anyone know anything else about these?
Von Alexander
RV-8 #544
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines! |
Once an engine is "de-certified", can it ever again be re-certified?
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
> >
> > In a message dated 7/8/98 11:04:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > sbuc(at)traveller.com writes:
> >
> > > Have your certificated engine's logs kept up to date by an A&P/AI, and
> > > you will be able to remove the engine and sell it to someone who needs
> > > an engine for the appropriate certificated airplane if necessary.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Zeck <ndzk(at)mlgc.com> |
Peter du Bois
| Subject: | Re: Alegro M816 Engine analyzer |
Bill,
The email for the Allegro is:
allegro1(at)dakotacom.net
The gent you want to write to is Peter duBois.
Nice man.
Nice product.
Frank Zeck, N2ZK just now flying (with an M816).
>
>
> >From time to time, i see mention of the Alegro M816 engine analyzer
> here. Always acompanied by glowing reports. Can anyone fill me in a
> little about this unit or tell me where I can obtain more info.
>
> Bill, RV4, N66WD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
I assume that you are working on a QB purchased directly from Van's Aircraft
Inc. If so, there should have been a letter from Tom Green, Van's Aircraft,
included in the instructions that details the options available, including
appropriate drawings. If you do not have the letter, I suggest that you
contact Van's and get a copy to put with your building manual. For the
archives, this problem is associated with the W-413 aileron bracket.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>
>Hey Guys
>
>Just having some problems with the W625 and aileron mounts (inboard one).
>The W625 has been drilled with 4 holes at 1" spacing. The rivets are
>flush head rivets.
>Any ideas as to how to fix this.
>I am thinking of drilling the outer two rivets out and then drilling the
>additional three holes. So I will end up with seven holes.
>
>any ideas appreciated.
>Tien
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY |
>
>
If it's a Powersonic product then it is indeed a gas-recombinant
battery with technology similar to the RG batteries offered
by Concord and B&C. Can you tell me what it weighs? >>
>I can only guess. I would say around 20lbs.
Okay, then I'm suspicious of the a.h. rating. I've found
dealer for these batteries on the web and I've asked for
an engineering data package on the products. We'll see
what they come up with.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: Fuel Pump & Carb |
<19980708.183132.3534.0.DavidDLA(at)juno.com>
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
writes:
>need help. I am interested in a 0-320 for sale through a private
>seller but I don't know if it will fit the RV-6A I am building. It is
>a 150hp out of a Super Cub. Does this engine have provisions for a
>fuel pump? Will the induction system clear the nose gear? The seller
>can't provide much information, but he did read the data plate to me
>over the phone( we are 1500 miles apart). The plate reads 1957-27 and
>0-320. no other letters. Also 150hp and 80/87 fuel. I did find out
>that the carb bolts to
>the sump at the bottom rear of the sump . He also knew that the engine
>uses conical mounts. Thanks, David Ahrens
David,
I don't know all the engines that well, but this one sounds like it is an
older model from an early super cub. Probably a narrow deck non-strait
riser induction sump. It will not work on an RV-6A without buying a
different sump and induction tubes (going rate I think is about $600 to
$750, maybe less if you really shop around). It would work on an RV-6
though.
As for the fuel pump? More than likely not, but you could have the owner
look and see if the mounting pad is milled off and has a cover bolted
over it. If it does then there would be a good chance that it is set up
for a fuel pump (if the actuator rod is also installed inside).
If the engine could be bought for the right price, all of the
questionable items could be taken care of and still have a reasonably
priced engine. Though it may be high on total time since new which could
possibly mean things like the crank could already be ground to minimum
dimensions which could cause you problems if you ever get to the point of
needing an overhaul.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BARNARD COWL |
>
>I AM LOOKING FOR A BARNARD COWL FOR A RV 6. DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE FOR
>SALE? DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO GET AHOLD OF STEVE BARNARD, HAVE E-MAILED
>HIM AND THE PHONE # I HAVE FOR HIM DOESN'T WORK.
Scott,
... you'll have to buy one privately, Steve isn't making them anymore.
He quit the RV parts business.
..... Gil (just switched to an old FP cowl) Alexander
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulleys |
> . . . . I do agree
>with the bigger pulley though, it stops intercom noise
Never saw a case of "noise" that was in any way related to pulley
size.
> . . . .and makes the
>brushes and bearings last much longer. We don't need the output most of the
>alternators are capable of anyway . . .
But you do need for them to cool well at what ever load you do
put on them . . . and most people would like to have the battery
up to 100% before takeoff . . .
> . . . . . and the fan, if you leave it there, is
>designed to run the opposite direction to the way we turn it anyhow.
Alternators with internal fans run equally well either direction.
Alternators with canted blads on an external fan are indeed a little
less efficient when running the "wrong" direction . . . but they
still work . . and running them faster makes them work better.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
Disposition-Notification-To:
| From: | "W. Williams-Wynne" <bill(at)wynne.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Which Wood Prop? |
>Has anyone any info on Warnke props since his daughter took over the
>business?? Get no reply on phone calls...Jim Brown..Matawan, NJ
I am afraid that I have had no luck either Jim. I foolishly sent Mr Warnke
a draft for $1,900 last January (at his insistance), but he wouldn't return
it or send the props when I asked him for them. Guess he saw me coming!
Can anyone over there help please, or am I just one of many ......? Best
wishes, Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fixed Rudder Pedal |
In a message dated 7/9/98 12:29:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
MAlexan533(at)aol.com writes:
<< Has anyone recieved the new non-adjustable rudder pedal kit from Vans?
Supposedly lighter, easier to install, and you get money back when you return
the other adjustable pedals in the kit. They are still adjustable, just not
quickly. Does anyone know anything else about these?
Von Alexander
>>
I've received mine. All you've said is true. I received $171.02 credit over
the adjustable version. Don't know what else to tell you.
Rick McBride
80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | 0-320 carb continued |
Listers,
Received my new carb yesterday ( prompt response from Consolidated )
installed it and set the idle. Went flying and didn't have the 100 rpm stumble,
it had a 300 rpm stumble. Same place 1400 rpm. Tried something new,
increased throttle rapidly, didn't notice stumble. Go figure.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Recertifying engines |
<35A3A0C8.457965C0(at)traveller.com>
>Once an engine is "de-certified", can it ever again be re-certified?
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Yes. The procedure is straight forward. The engine, airframe or appliance
must have an inspection for compliance with Type Certificate. This is very
like the process one must go through if the log book(s) for a certified
component are ever lost. You basically have to *PROVE* to the FAA that the
item conforms to its original type certificate (plus any STC'd or 337 mods).
This usually will require a complete disassembly (to inspect) and then
reassembly and appropriate log book entry. It will require the
co-operation of a certified repair station (for engines) or a DAR
(Designated Airworthiness Representative). There is no reason that an
owner/builder couldn't do the labor portion of the disassemble/reassemble
under supervison of appropriately rated mechanic, but the CRS or DAR will
want a fee of $200+ for their services.
The other option is to return it to Lycoming and let them overhaul it.
They will inspect it and return you a freshly certified engine.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling wing ribs |
jerry calvert wrote:
> Thanks Jerry,
It is amazing what a group of people focusing on the same type of problem
can
come up with. I have certainly benefitted from many great ideas from a wide variety
of
people.
Keep it up, once the wings are finished the fuselage will seem like a desert.
Ed
>
>
> You guys amaze me with your ingenuity! Thanks for the advice.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6a...working on wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BARNARD COWL |
<< Scott,
... you'll have to buy one privately, Steve isn't making them anymore.
He quit the RV parts business.
..... Gil (just switched to an old FP cowl) Alexander
>>
I'll bet Sam James picks this one up... he already makes copies of Dave
Anders' cowl for those speed-hungry -4 drivers...Look for Sam at OSH...check
the archives for a recent post of Steve's new phone #.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | 6/6A Slider Instrument Panel |
The method I used was passed on to me by Ken at Vans. I found it very
effective for me. I just bought a piece of Formica from the local
Loews. I think it costs about $8 for a 4 by 8 sheet. Anyway you wind
up with enough to build at least 4 prototype panels out of with some
leftover for other various tasks. I got the thin stuff that I am
guessing was about 1/16" thick. This stuff will cut very easily with
your metal shears or as I did utility shears. I then did the
rib-straight edge thing to get the general cut line for rounding off the
panel and added about 1/8" to that. Then I fitted the forward skin and
shaved the edge to get the panel to fit. Don't be overly concerned
about making the thing fit precisely the first time out, it takes too
much time. You will have enough Formica for several panels, just try to
get reasonably close on the first one, then make the second one the
precise fit panel. Now lay out all your instruments and cut critical
instrument holes to gauge your clearance from the skin and ribs. The
Formica will not support putting all your instruments in and you may
have double it up if you have heavy gyros but use this method to test
the clearance of your layout with the installation.
For example, I have a g meter on the far left of the panel. I was
concerned that there might not be enough clearance between the
instrument and the skin. I just cut the G-meter hole, put the
instrument in and checked the clearance. Then remove the panel and
check the gyros, etc. etc.
I am also building a slider one pain I hear (mine is not flying yet), is
the serviceability of the panel. I guess if you put everything in and
it works okay serviceability may not be a big issue for you, but, ... if
Murphy is about. When you are putting the panel together think about
how you will service these components. Consider removable sub-panels.
If you belong to EAA check out the articles on the 6a they built. There
are some quite interesting articles on their panel design. I have
elected to make my radio stack removable from the front of the panel and
I also have a removable sub panel for the gyros (I've got an IFR bird).
Don't hesitate to cut another mock-up panel if you need to move some
instruments. Don't forget that the ribs for the front top skin slope
downward and depending on the radios that you have, you may have to cut
some from the forward bulkhead, but using your mock-up panel you can
easily find the areas you will need to cut out to and then make your
decision if you really want to do it or not.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6AQ
Roanoke, VA
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
The -8 like all RVs has a design strength of 6 possitive and 3 negative
G's. These numbers always have a 50% safety factor built in so the
"ultimate" ( when things start falling off) limits are 9 possitive and 4.5
negative G's.
Chat Daniel
RV8 N678RV (reserved)
----------
> From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 weights
> Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 9:37 AM
>
>
> >What is the:
> >1. gross wt.
> >2. aerobatic wt.
> >3. and the expected empty wt. of the RV-8.
> >Also please confirm that the RV-8 is designed to +/- 6 g's with an
ultimate
> >load of +/- 9 g's.
>
>
> Per section 14 of the preview plans manual:
> Recommended Gross Weight - 1800 lbs
> Aerobatic Gross Weight - 1550 lbs
>
> From the Web Page:
> Empty Weight - 1076 lbs (Kitplanes annual listing said 1090 lbs)
>
> G loading is a good question I guess. You always see the 6 and 9
numbers, but
> I'm thinking that's really +6 -4, and +9 -6. I'm sure this is listed
somewhere,
> but I can't find it now. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong
about
> this.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (for sale)
> RV-8A, 80587 (wings)
> rad(at)pcola.gulf.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | caummisa(at)arn.net (Richard Caummisar, CSP) |
Oh you're one of those compulsive, analytical over - achievers, eh? :
)
(Ans: Projects like electronic kits, furniture for the house, nuclear
subs, nuke
power plant overhauls and oil refineries turnarounds. OR having
to decipher weather jiberish (METAR) to get my ticket!)
>
>>
>> Disappointed?? NO WAY!! I know I can do this. I've built more intricate
>> projects.
>
>Richard, I'm just curious, but what sort of project can one find that is
>more intricate than a plane? I was hoping that the RV would cover me in
>the project area for life, but am now worried that maybe there is another.
>
>Alex Peterson 6A
>Maple Grove MN
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVosberg(at)uhc.com |
| Subject: | DuPont paint / Top Gun contest |
Fellow Listers:
I was looking around www.dupont.com looking for product information
and ran across a contest they are holding called "Top Gun contest".
If you are using DuPont finishes on your project and you have a really
fancy-dancy or artsy-fartsy paint job you can enter their contest to
win prizes such as 12 $1000 prizes and 24 $500 prizes. (pretty lame
prizes if you ask me. They get to use your workmanship in their
marketing campaign for "free") If you win your aircraft will be
featured in their trade publication and on their calendar. The URL for
more info is:
http://www.dupont.com/automotive/finishes/topgun/award.html
Roy Vosberg
RV6 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: BARNARD COWL |
>I'll bet Sam James picks this one up... he already makes copies of Dave
>Anders' cowl for those speed-hungry -4 drivers...Look for Sam at OSH...check
>the archives for a recent post of Steve's new phone #.
Steve's Phone number, as of a couple of weeks ago, is 916-631-3672.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Used Engines---25 vs 40 hour flight test |
After reading several of the recent posts concerning certified and un-
certified engines, I thought that I would share my recent experience. I bought
a used IO-320-B1A engine that had 1550 hours on it. It originally came off of
a twin Comanche, and was then installed on a Pitts. When I bought it, it was
still flying on the Pitts. The owner had the original logs, and the engine had
been well maintained. All effective ad's were complied with, every annual had
been signed off by an IA, and the owner was very meticulous about documenting
all maintenance. When I had the FAA inspector out from the FSDO in Oklahoma
City inspect my -6a, he had nothing but very good comments about my airframe
and workmanship. But, he did not want to give me a 25 hour test period because
my engine had been on another experimental. We discussed this, and reviewed
the logs, but he held tight to the 40 hours. Well, I've got 26 hours on it so
far, so I called him on Monday and tried to talk him into ammending my
restrictions down to 25 hours. I've still got 14 more to go. All inspectors
are different, and maybe with someone else, or a DAR it might have been
different, but this was my experience.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Used Engines---25 vs 40 hour flight test |
<< Well, I've got 26 hours on it so
far, so I called him on Monday and tried to talk him into ammending my
restrictions down to 25 hours. I've still got 14 more to go. All inspectors
are different, and maybe with someone else, or a DAR it might have been
different, but this was my experience. >>
Unfortunately, the inspectors are apparently given a "wide latitude" in this
regard, although they should have to stick to some sort of standard. As an
example, our inspectors out here in Seattle are friendly, reasonable, and easy
to work with, as evidenced by the many folks who have had to deal with them.
I guess some should "count their blessings". Do not be dismayed. I am quite
sure that you will find the extra 14 hours of time of some benefit in your
comfort level prior to having the tether cut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
I built my own house, too. The plane is definitely more intricate (over 50
pages of D-size drawings versus about 6), but easier, because I can do
almost all of it myself, and I can take my time.
With the house I had to contend with banks, construction loans,
subcontractors, and deadlines like having to pull all the wiring in a big
hurry to be ready for the sheetrockers, who then proceeded to collect
payment on their previous job and spend it all getting drunk for three
weeks before they finally showed up (still drunk).
SNIP
>Check out Phil Arter's page. He built his own house.
>
SNIP
>Alex Peterson wrote:
>>
SNIP
>>
>> Richard, I'm just curious, but what sort of project can one find that is
>> more intricate than a plane? I was hoping that the RV would cover me in
>> the project area for life, but am now worried that maybe there is another.
>>
SNIP
Don Hyde
Quincy, IL
6A, Building! HS in jig,
waiting for wife to be "in the mood" to rivet skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>The -8 like all RVs has a design strength of 6 possitive and 3 negative
>G's. These numbers always have a 50% safety factor built in so the
>"ultimate" ( when things start falling off) limits are 9 possitive and 4.5
>negative G's.
>
>Chat Daniel
>RV8 N678RV (reserved)
I continually read the RV's limit load factor is 6 positive and 3
negative. I have seen it on the list many times, the RAH newsgroups many
times and Scott McDaniels quoted those very figures yesterday.
________________________________________________________________________________
"The RV-6 structure has been designed to withstand aerobatic design loads
of plus and minus 6 Gs at an aerobatic gross wt. of 1375 lbs."
________________________________________________________________________________
"The RVs have a design stress limit of plus & minus 6 Gs at aerobatic
gross weights:"
So, my question. Where is this minus 3 stuff coming from?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Fitting Flaps to Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strong, Colin" <colin.strong(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | HS801PP Dimpling |
I used the C-Frame tool as well, and it worked great. I had a helper who
pulled
up on the skin to keep it level, and I got perfect dimples.
Colin Strong
RV-6 #25216
Wing Skeleton
It is not possible to dimple the forward most hole in the center of the
HS801PP (HS skin) with the C-frame tool, is it? The Ornoff videos indicate
that they counter sunk instead. I had a hard time doing the second-to-last
hole. Is there another tool that is better to use in tight quarters for the
last hole? I see a "120 degree flush dimpling tool" in Aircraft Spruce's
catelog (P/N 17014). Is this what I need?
Cheers,
-Larry
Email: larry(at)bowen.com
Web: http://larry.bowen.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Young <gyoung(at)bcm.tmc.edu> |
Larry,
I agree. I think it's confusion with the FARs where +6/-3 is the minimum
criteria for a "certified" aircraft in the Aerobatic category (vs Utility
or Normal which have lower limits). Experimentals don't have categories to
define legal operations, the operating limitations and flight tests do
that. The -6/-4 spars and remaining structure sure looks symmetrical
(pos/neg) unlike strut braced aircraft. My Citabria is certified as
aerobatic, is certainly not symmetrical and has further operating limits of
+5/-2.
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) fuselage - controls and panel
> >From builders manual page 15-21 (RV-6) under G-Load Testing:
>
> "The RV-6 structure has been designed to withstand aerobatic design loads
> of plus and minus 6 Gs at an aerobatic gross wt. of 1375 lbs."
>
> >From my Van's brochure under Aerobatics:
>
> "The RVs have a design stress limit of plus & minus 6 Gs at aerobatic
> gross weights:"
>
>
> So, my question. Where is this minus 3 stuff coming from?
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | RV-bookstore price reductions |
3 notices
1] AIMING HIGH: the story of Jon Johanssons 2 flights around the world
in his RV-4, is now available from a US distributer. (previously, it was
imported from Australia) Therefore, we are able to reduce the price from
19.95 to $17.95
2] CORROSION CONTROL VIDEO: We have received a price reduction on this
item and are therefore able to lower our price from 24.95 to $19.95.
3] AERO-ELECTRIC CONNECTION: An exceptional text on the "how-to's" of
setting up an electrical system in your RV. The current edition
(version 7) is sold out. Version 8 is now being produced and will be
available by the first week of September. The price remains the same.
Pre-order now for free shipping.
For more information please see our web site at:
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Equipment requirements (was Re: AV-8 Engine Monitor) |
> What's the FAA stance on these electronic gizmos as part of the required
> day VFR instrumentation?
Not being an FAA employee I can't speak for them, but here's my .02, based
on what I've read in the regs:
Part 91.205 lays out the equipment reqirements for VFR and IFR
operations under part 91 (that's us!) This part says which instruments
you need to have for VFR and IFR, and gives specific design limits,
TSOs, or periodic testing requirements for SOME specific pieces of
equipment, BUT NOT ALL. For example, they talk about TSO specs for ELT
(91.207), transponder/encoder (91.215), and shoulder harness strength
(23.561). There are no exceptions called out for these things as
regards to homebuilts, so I think it's wise to assume we aren't exempt.
As one lister pointed out, this doesn't necessarily mean the part has to
have a TSO stamp from the factory on it, it just needs to meet the
testing parameters (VERY good tidbit by the way -- thanks to the guy who
posted that!)
Ok so that's fine for those specific items, but there are only a few of
them. For the rest of it (airspeed indicator, compass, tachometer,
Nav/Com, etc. etc.) it's the same as with certified aircraft, i.e. the
manufacturer (in this case, you or me) is the one who determines the
suitability of a particular piece of equipment in the airplane.
So it seems to me that as long we stick to the letter of the law in the
places where it's specifically spelled out, we'll be fine with the other
stuff.
Disclaimer: I'm sure there may be regulations I am not aware of that
contradict parts of what I've said, and there are probably some
inspectors out there who will be inclined to make up restrictions on the
fly. I make no guarantees that you won't run into one or the other!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
> What's the FAA stance on these electronic gizmos as part of the required
> day VFR instrumentation? If I eguip my day VFR RV with nothing more than a
> mag compass, AV-10, RMI uEncoder and fuel quantity gauge Ive met all the
> requirements as I understand them, but is the FAA inspector/DAR gonna
> cringe when he sees my total reliance on this stuff and refuse to sign me
> off? Or is this one of those things that seems to be subject to
> interpretation/variation from inspector to inspector?
------------- End Forwarded Message -------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab cover nutplates |
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
>
>
> Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >I feel better now and I'm going for the Boelube.<
>
> Long ago, my father taught me to put a little soap (Ivory seemed to be the
> soap of choice) on a screw before inserting it. Also works on saw blades
> and drill bits. It is amazing how close to Boelube it is (Boelube = Ivory
> soap?). Soap is much cheaper and readily available at the corner store.
> A fellow builder now asks "pass the soap" even when he is using Boelube.
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> Wing skeleton ready for priming when the rain stops
>
Scott,
Read your advice and thought, what the heck, I'll give the soap a try
since I don't have the Boelube yet. What a surprise!! All but one
screw slicked right in there! I'm going to tease that last platenut
with a tap and then try some more SOAP.
I am converted. If you see me at a fly-in, I'm the one wearing the
SOAP-ON-A-ROPE around my neck :^)
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6a Wing'n it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
If you can find it, beeswax works well, too.
George Stanley
RV-6A Wings
Fuselage ordered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
Listers,
Go to your local Hardware or home store and buy a toilet bowl setting ring.
It's the ring used under the tiolet bowl to secure and seal it to the
plumbing under the floor. They cost all of about .99 cents. They are made
up of about 3 cups of bees wax. Now save your next three or four empty
stick deoderant cases or have your friends save theirs. (If you have any
friends and you don't use deoderant.) Next melt the ring wax in a can with
a propane tourch and pour it into the empty deoderant cases. When they cool
you can turn up more wax stick as you need it. Been doing it for
years..... Al
>
>If you can find it, beeswax works well, too.
>
>George Stanley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing Kit For Sale |
Hello listers:
Due to a recent decision to change careers, my project is on hold indefinitely
and my RV-8 wing kit is for sale. (I'm gearing up to be poor--I mean
"financially challenged")
I decided to start my wings with the control surfaces. All control surface
components have been primed with SW 2-part epoxy primer. The only actual metal
work I've done on the kit is to back-rivet the stiffners to for the ailerons.
I have also drilled the lightning holes in the rear spar for the ailerons. No
mistakes. Not even I can screw up backriveting pre-punchd and pre-fabricated
stiffners!
I've planned to go with single piece top skins so I've got 20' x 4' of rolled
2024 .032" aluminum for the top skins still in the box.
I'm located in Loveland, Colorado which is about 50 miles straight north of
Denver. Feel free to contact me off-list to discuss specifics.
Best regards to all,
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Soapy screws - was Trim cable cover on left elevator |
Hi,
George Stanley says beeswax works. I would guess it would be less corrosive
than soap. Some soaps corrode aluminum tho not steel.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gar Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
>
>Listers,
>Go to your local Hardware or home store and buy a toilet bowl setting ring.
Another possibility for folks who handload cartridges. Some of the
lubricants used for resizing cartridge cases are very effective and come in
handy dandy dispensers. Some are spray on and leave very little residue.
Visit any local gun store, although this is not politically correct
anymore. Gar Pessel, qb6 just started, Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | throttle/mixture and prop governor brackets |
Gary VanRemortel's throttle/mixture and prop governor bracket plans are now
available on my web page. Gary's brackets work with ACS's A-750 and A-800
cables, while Van's brackets are designed to work with different brackets.
To see Gary's plans go to http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a then click on the
Plans/docs link.
Please let me know if you have any problems viewing the pages or plans.
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator pulleys |
> Never saw a case of "noise" that was in any way related to pulley
> size.
Just goes to show, your never too old to learn, are you?
I don't think the pulley caused the noise either.But I'm pretty certain the
regulator did.
I did'nt SEE the noise either, but I sure heard it. And the larger pulley
sure fixed it.
Brian ,still learning.
ipment installed. These will definetly be single place
aerobatic airplanes, and coupled with pilots weighing much over 200 lbs,
may not qualify aerobatic at all." unquote.
By the way, under design principles, the airplane should not fall apart
until in excess of ultimate load, but permanent deformation of the
structure is to be expected once the design load is exceeded. Cheers, !!
Brian
>
> I continually read the RV's limit load factor is 6 positive and 3
> negative. I have seen it on the list many times, the RAH newsgroups many
> times and Scott McDaniels quoted those very figures yesterday.
> >From builders manual page 15-21 (RV-6) under G-Load Testing:
> "The RV-6 structure has been designed to withstand aerobatic design loads
> of plus and minus 6 Gs at an aerobatic gross wt. of 1375 lbs."
> >From my Van's brochure under Aerobatics:
> "The RVs have a design stress limit of plus & minus 6 Gs at aerobatic
> gross weights:"
>
> So, my question. Where is this minus 3 stuff coming from?
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder fairing light |
I am using the same method except I made my plate out of .040" aluminum
instead of wood. The nuts are tack glued to the plate with thin
cyano-acrylate glue and I smeared mold release on the screws and ran
them into the nuts. Next, I glued the plate assembly in place with a
flox/epoxy mix. When set, I removed the screws and put a dot of scotch
tape over the holes (make the dots with a hole punch. Finally, two
layers of glass over the plate to fair it into the fairing and add
strength. Once set, trim out the center hole and screw holes with an
Originally, I intended to make a connector at the front of the fairing,
but that turned out to be a complicated idea (too many problems to
overcome). I am currently putting a grommet at the front of the fairing
and will simply run the wiring from the fuselage back to the light with
a connector at the light. To remove the rudder, first remove the light
and grommet in order to release the wiring. Reassembly will be just as
simple. Hurrah for the K.I.S.S. rule!
PatK - RV-6A - Wings built and about to be moved to Chicago.
Web Page Update: I am currently revamping my webpages in anticipation
of getting a new address (www.flion.com). Completion awaits two
things:
the pictures of the move and my ISP to get their act together and give
me my web space. Hopefully mid-August will see the new stuff.
RICKRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Craig,
>
> I can tell you how I mounted my tail light. I cut out a piece of 3/16" model
> aircraft plywood the shape of the base of the tail light. This shape should
> match the fiberglass fairing. I then cut a hole in the ply large enough to
> fit the light shaft. I then drilled the light mounting holes in the ply. I
> bought two blind "T" nuts from my local hobby store. These nuts will mount on
> the inside of the ply. I epoxied the ply to the inside of the fiberglass
> opening being careful not to get any glue in the blind nuts (a bit of vaseline
> will protect the nuts). After painting you simply mount the light to the
> wooden mount. Some loctite will ensure the bolts remain in place.
>
> Rick McBride
> RV-6 N523JC
> RV-8 80027
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
<< By the way, under design principles, the airplane should not fall apart
until in excess of ultimate load, but permanent deformation of the
structure is to be expected once the design load is exceeded. >>
This may be true the first time you go over the design load. Once you exceed
the elastic region on the stress strain curve the part starts to get weeker.
If you are going out and pulling 7 G every flight things are going to start to
break. However the reason wing don't fail where you think they would ,at the
root is FAR 23 also requires bearing factor of 2 any place there is a point
load, such as where there a bolt holds the wing on. These calculations must
be shown to the FAA before they will certify an aircraft. However, a kit
manufacture only has to show then to the lawyers after something fails. In
either case you better have the paperwork.
Bottom line: Don't over stress your airframe thinking your safe to 9G.
Alan Kritzman
RV8 Wings done, waiting on fus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Willemssen" <cwillems(at)isd.net> |
RV-List: A Beginning
>>>
>>> Richard, I'm just curious, but what sort of project can one find that is
>>> more intricate than a plane? I was hoping that the RV would cover me in
>>> the project area for life, but am now worried that maybe there is
another.
I'm not sure that I have had a project more intricate than a plane, but one
that was nevertheless just as encompassing. Try building a road
vehicle--starting from scratch. Now I don't mean go out and buy an old
Chevy and add some big tires and stuff. I mean start with nothing and make
your own frame, attach some axles, find a drivetrain/powertrain, and
finally, make your own body for it (using stainless steel, of course).
Don't forget the custom wiring harness nor the custom driveshafts which
connect the GM transfer case to the Ford differentials. Like I said,
probably not more intricate, but the 3+ years of trials and tribulations are
there as well.
Anyone wanting a 2 Meg .bmp of this creation can reply off list. The truck
can be seen from time to time at Flying Cloud airport in Eden Prairie, MN.
As with any project of this nature, it was a great learning process, an
excellent way to spend spare time, and of course, a money pit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | setting elevator trim |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 elevator trim setting/manual trim.
________________________________________________________________________________
Is "visually" how you determine the correct position for takeoff?
Many of the aircraft I have flown have an indicator of some type.
-Just wondering,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Plumbing air compressor |
I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
This will also give me places to hook up all those things you're
supposed to hook up -- de-water, one line with an oil mister, etc.
I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
Comments?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "m.hanson" <paintbox(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | riveting for beginners |
This is a follow up to an earlier post about screwing up some of my first
riveting of the HS skin. Thanks to everyone who passed on their opinions. I
think I'll just leave the small dents until painting and then do what I
can.
But, for anyone else just starting,about to rivet the HS skins, I have a
suggestion.(experience so recent it still hurts!) I am following the
Orndorf tapes, and am very grateful that they have given us their expertise
in such an easy to understand and clearly illustrated format. But, I would
change the order that they suggest for riveting the skins on. In the
tapes they say to rivet the top side of the skins first because it's easier
to get to and ,you would think , easier to do a nice job.
However, if you are in the situation of having to rivet and buck with out a
helper, and outside of practice rivets, this is your first real riveting
experience, do the bottom side skin first! If I had taken this route, I
would have very nice top-side HS skins !
Nothing like a little experience...ouch!
Marc Hanson RV-6A HS almost done.
paintbox(at)rconnect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: throttle/mixture and prop governor brackets |
<< Gary VanRemortel's throttle/mixture and prop governor bracket plans are now
available on my web page. >>
By the way, Gary is now at EAA Northwest fly-in. I have not spotted him, but
I have had a look at his "bird". It is a very nice one, INDEEDY!!
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing Kit For Sale |
| From: | seaok71302(at)Juno.com (mike a adams) |
>Due to a recent decision to change careers, my project is on hold
>indefinitely
>and my RV-8 wing kit is for sale. (I'm gearing up to be poor--I mean
>"financially challenged")
>
HUMMMMM.... sounds like a future regional airline pilot.... I can make
that statement because I've been there too... One of the few US
industries who have figured out how to pay less than minimum wage when
you consider hours of duty vs total pay. OR,... you are moving to the
Phillipines to assemble quickbuilds. Although at first glance the
quickbuild job seems to pay less.... I think your standard of living will
be higher in the Phillipines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines!-Proud |
You know, Why wouldn't someone buy a used certified engine with all logs and a
clean bill of health off a homebuilt that was---say--damaged by weather beyond
repair--and hang it on the "family 172"? There is this misguided and untrue
perception among some people that Amateur Built/ Experimental is some lesser
form of aviation practiced by weirdos and I resent that--I am the same A&P
that might be maintaining that "family 172" and there are plenty of non-A&P
RV's out there I would be proud to claim as my own--in fact I wish I were that
good. Proud to be a Homebuilder--WE are the MAINSTREAM ---- not the fringe and
do not let them forget that. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> Go to your local Hardware or home store and buy a toilet bowl setting ring.
> It's the ring used under the tiolet bowl to secure and seal it to the
> plumbing under the floor. They cost all of about .99 cents. They are made
> up of about 3 cups of bees wax. Now save your next three or four empty
> stick deoderant cases or have your friends save theirs. (If you have any
> friends and you don't use deoderant.) Next melt the ring wax in a can with
> a propane tourch and pour it into the empty deoderant cases. When they cool
> you can turn up more wax stick as you need it. Been doing it for
> years..... Al
But it sure does make your armpits sticky......
Sam Buchanan (think I have been up too long....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines!-Proud |
You read my mind JR...very well put...
Paul Besing
>
>You know, Why wouldn't someone buy a used certified engine with all logs and a
>clean bill of health off a homebuilt that was---say--damaged by weather beyond
>repair--and hang it on the "family 172"? There is this misguided and untrue
>perception among some people that Amateur Built/ Experimental is some lesser
>form of aviation practiced by weirdos and I resent that--I am the same A&P
>that might be maintaining that "family 172" and there are plenty of non-A&P
>RV's out there I would be proud to claim as my own--in fact I wish I were that
>good. Proud to be a Homebuilder--WE are the MAINSTREAM ---- not the fringe and
>do not let them forget that. JR
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
Check the archives on this...I seem to remember a discussion about PVC pipe
and people having problems with it bursting...I would use "Schedule 40"
(the thick stuff) if I were to do it..however, you can use metal without
doing any soldering..you can buy everything with threads and use thread tape
for sealing...
If it is not in the RV-List archives, check the Zenith-list archives...(I
used to be on that one, then I got smart!)
Good luck
Paul Besing
>
>I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
>compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
>This will also give me places to hook up all those things you're
>supposed to hook up -- de-water, one line with an oil mister, etc.
>
>I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
>or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
>but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
>
>Comments?
>
>-Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: throttle/mixture and prop governor brackets |
For those RV-6/6A builders about to commit to something in this area, I
believe you will soon find Van's stocking some types of the ACS cables that
are custom made to fit Van's brackets without modification. I think the
one's currently listed in the new catalog are just the custom length, but
I'm not sure. I also think there's a little more adjusting to do until the
length from the center of the threaded bulkhead fitting to the threaded end
is correct, from what I understand. But, stay tuned, because I think they
will soon come up with a usable, reasonably priced, and readily available
product, at least to fit the 0-320 carbs and the prop governors. I'm not so
sure that the bracket will work for the A-750 mixture cable or on the 0-360
carbs for either cable, without modification. Seems to me that the bracket
needs to be longer for those applications and Gary's bracket designs would
be muchly appreciated I'm sure, although he never would send them to me so I
really don't know.
I ended up doing like a lot of others that wanted to use the ACS A-800
and/or A-750 cables. I customized Van's throttle/mixture bracket by
extending the bulkhead attach tang 1 1/2" using a cut off portion of a
second bracket to do so. This also moves it sideways which puts it a little
more in line with the throttle lever. The polyolefin covered throttle cable
is 45 1/2" long (length for horizontally mounted controls) with a threaded
bulkhead fitting at the casing end(ala A-1550 cable), and the standard
stroke, threaded shaft. For the mixture, I'm using the solid wire cable and
have bent the mounting tab down and added an extension bent so that it forms
a lazy "s". This places the mounting tab farther back and the cable pretty
much in line with the arc of the mixture lever so that there is very little
bending of the cable as it operates.
For the prop governor, I am using a 60" cable with the stroke and rod length
changed and the standard grooved fitting replaced with a threaded bulkhead
fitting, all modified to the proper lengths by ACS to fit Van's unmodified
prop governor bracket.
Whew! It would have probably been easier, quicker, and certainly cheaper,
to have started out and custom made the brackets to fit whatever stock
cables are availbalbe. But then, I wouldn't have gained all the education
and recreation that this experimenting is all about, would I?
>
>Gary VanRemortel's throttle/mixture and prop governor bracket plans are now
>available on my web page. Gary's brackets work with ACS's A-750 and A-800
>cables, while Van's brackets are designed to work with different brackets.
>
>To see Gary's plans go to http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a then click on
the
>Plans/docs link.
>
>Please let me know if you have any problems viewing the pages or plans.
>
>Tim
>_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
>I want to plumb the air from my air compressor.
>I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
>or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
>but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
>-Joe
Although I would not say that PVC is the best choice for air lines, if you
are going to use PVC inspite of the explosion hazards then at least get
"schedule 80" pipe rather than the more common "schedule 40" type found at
home centers. Schedule 80 has thicker walls and higher burst pressure.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
Short answer - PVC pipe is easier to use, and some people have used it, but
if it ever breaks it can shatter and blasts sharp shards in all directions.
(Air is different than water in this case - compressed air will keep
accelerating the shards after the pipe is broken, water is not elastic, so
it doesn't have the same danger.)
Not to change the subject, but I was at the EAA show in Arlington today and
saw the guys from Van's. Now I've gotta schedule one of those $30K free
rides....
--
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com
>
>I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
>compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
>This will also give me places to hook up all those things you're
>supposed to hook up -- de-water, one line with an oil mister, etc.
>
>I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
>or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
>but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Carb Stumble Solution |
Listers,
Seems I ordered my remanufactured carb through Aircraft Spruce. Gave
them the numbers and they had Consolidated drop ship the carb to me. When
the new carb arrived I sent the old carb to Aircraft Spruce for a refund of the
core.
Well guess what, they sent me the wrong carb. The carb that I should have
gotten was a 5009N. The carb they sent me was a -32. My 0-320E3D came
from the factory with a 5009N. There's an economizer circuit in the -32 that
has something to do with the idle-main jet transition.
The new carb will be here today. I'll let you know how things turned out.
Randy Knutson of Consolidated said no carb was suppose to leave the
factory until the consumer verified the carb number ordered. Well they missed
me. Randy has been great about helping me through this problem. I've got
3000 dollars worth of carbs here trying to help me through this problem.
A friend of mine called G&N yesterday to explain the problem I was having
and Troy ( G&N Rep ) told him off the top of his head that I had the wrong
carb. Said it was a common problem that happened all the time. Seems I'm
not the only one that gets wrong parts.
So if you have a stubborn stumble at 1400 rpm, you might want to check
which carb came out of the factory on your engine. The guys at Lycoming
can verify that with the serial number of your engine.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
You could try building a nickel cobalt refinery, 20,000 drawings later and we
are still working on it. I have gotten a bad case of writers cramp just signing
the check box on the drawings. P.S. I am at Anaconda Nickels Murrin Murrin Site,
check out their web page, we have just passed the 1,000,000 man-hour mark with
2000 construction personnel on site, we should be at 1,750,000 hours when we
fire up the turbines for the power station.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: A Beginning
Date: 09-07-98 11:35
I built my own house, too. The plane is definitely more intricate (over 50
pages of D-size drawings versus about 6), but easier, because I can do
almost all of it myself, and I can take my time.
With the house I had to contend with banks, construction loans,
subcontractors, and deadlines like having to pull all the wiring in a big
hurry to be ready for the sheetrockers, who then proceeded to collect
payment on their previous job and spend it all getting drunk for three
weeks before they finally showed up (still drunk).
SNIP
>Check out Phil Arter's page. He built his own house.
>
SNIP
>Alex Peterson wrote:
>>
SNIP
>>
>> Richard, I'm just curious, but what sort of project can one find that is
>> more intricate than a plane? I was hoping that the RV would cover me in
>> the project area for life, but am now worried that maybe there is another.
>>
SNIP
Don Hyde
Quincy, IL
6A, Building! HS in jig,
waiting for wife to be "in the mood" to rivet skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
Joe,
July 04, 1998 - July 10, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ez