RV-Archive.digest.vol-fd
August 04, 1998 - August 11, 1998
airshow type smoke system on descend below the trees on approximately a right
base for 27. He never saw the plane reappear. Several seconds later, an
extremely large plume of black smoke arose precisely where he saw the smoking
plane disappear behind the trees.
It would appear an engine problem/ fire of some sort forced the plane down.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
<< Get the Mountain High... spend the extra $'s for the electronic regulator.
>>
Just out of curiosity, what is the per person (2) duration of this system at
15,000 ft using a 13 cu ft cylinder? The standard Aerox (no electronic reg)
is 7 hrs each.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bellcrank Confession |
Leo,
Please explain the "look at the reflection of the drill to make sure you
are at 90 degrees" technique. Sounds great.
Thanks,
>Incidentally......
>
>The above technique is so good for getting holes at a right angle to a
>surface that I now clamp scraps of .025 on the front of bits of wood when I
>am doing joinery type stuff..... Can't believe I spent all those years
>working with a non-reflective material.
>
>Leo Davies
Bob Haan
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Working on Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder tools |
John
I stoped by Wicks Aircraft at the show they had several sets -priced at $55.00
BSivori
N929RV
Closed Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimental Placard: Passenger Warning |
Somewhere I've seen this added to the last sentence: The Ark was also
amateur built unlike the professionally built Titanic.
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Experimental Placard: Passenger Warning
>
>You forgot to add this to the bottom:
>
>PASSENGER WARNING
>THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR-BUILT AND DOES
>NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
>REGULATIONS FOR "STANDARD AIRCRAFT"
>
>IT EXCEEDS THEM
>
>
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>Waiting on Finish Kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Diane and Dave Irwin <dirwin(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Epoxy resin over polyester |
Does anyone know of any problems with using epoxy resin over polyester? This is
for holding on the cowling piano hinges. I know that polyester can be used over
epoxy, such as on the windshield fairing, but is the reverse true?
Dave Irwin
RV-6A C-GCRV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
I will be in Bozeman MT from 4 - 9 Aug and again from 16 - 21 Aug. Any
listers out there whose plane / project (expecialy RV-8) I could take a
look at. Of course, beers are usually involved (except at OSH)
Scott A. Jordan
80331
emp, flaps, ailerons, center section complete
wing skeletons ready for riveting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy resin over polyester |
<< Does anyone know of any problems with using epoxy resin over polyester?
This is
for holding on the cowling piano hinges. I know that polyester can be used
over
epoxy, such as on the windshield fairing, but is the reverse true?
Dave Irwin
RV-6A C-GCRV >>
RE: piano hinge adhesive
Use plain old JB Weld, or a similiar product. This from Gary Hunter, the crew
chief on Pushy Cat (Bruce Bohannon's plane). As a Shell epoxy tech rep, he
oughta know! It's easier, too. Be sure to use soft rivets to actually rivet
the hinge to the 'glass.
Now, for using poly over epoxy: You are probably referring to a bondo type
substance. That will work, but better epoxy based products are available. Get
those if you can. Aeropoxy brand comes to mind.
NEVER EVER try to put poly resin over epoxy as a lay-up. Epoxy will work fine
as a lay-up over poly, however. Be sure to sand adequately before attempting
any lay-up over cured mat'l.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The best laid plans |
In a message dated 8/3/98 9:06:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< Gary, can you give details on your rudder pedal breakage (floor mounted
with
or without mods already done, overhead mounte, etc.)? Thanks >>
Overhead rudder peddles. Fuselage kit manufactured in 1993.
The weldment broke where the torque tube and "U" intersect. I went over to
Van's tent and Scott was very helpful. He instructed me to have "fingers"
wrapped around the torque tube to hold the "U" in place. Worked like a charm,
thanks Scott.
The torque tube wall is .032 4130. It should probably be heaver. There is a
SB regarding this entire event in the last RVator. Seems I needs to lighten-
up on the rudders.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 HIT AT OSH |
Bill Priest lives in Overgaard, AZ at the Mogollon airport (pvt) and last I
heard was building a RV.
FWIW
>This is what it shows on the net
>
>N-number : N122BP
>Aircraft Manufacturer/Model : N/a
>Engine Manufacturer : LYCOMING
>Model : O&VO-360 SER
>Aircraft Year : 1997
>Owner Name : SCOTTSDALE AERO MECH FLYING CLUB INC
>Owner Address : PO BOX 937 OVERGAARD, AZ, 85933-0937
>Registration Date : 22-Nov-1997
>Airworthiness Certificate Type: Experimental
>Approved Operations : Amateur Built
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
gila(at)flash.net
| Subject: | Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
Gary, and listers:
I just got off the phone with the Prez of Aeroflash. The strobes we are
selling and using are:
COMPLETELY LEGAL FOR USE ON AMATEUR BUILT AIRCRAFT OPERATING UNDER FAR PART
21.
I'm told amateur built a/c operate under FAR Part 21, which includes NO STROBE
LIGHTING REQUIREMENTS. You can use boat lighting if you so desire. You can use
1200CP strobes (approved under Part 25) if you desire. You can use a
flashlight!
The 400 CP requirement is under FAR Part 23, which simply DOES NOT APPLY to
those of us operating amateur built aircraft. As Part 23 does not apply, no
"ruling" from our friendly FAA is necessary to let us use Aeroflash lighting
on our amateur built aircraft. Type certificated aircraft are a whole
different matter as we all know. *That's* why we have amateur built aircraft,
right?
Gary:
Please fwd this to your pal on the Kitfox list. He's welcome to use Part 23
approved lighting if he wishes, but he doesn't need to comply if he chooses
not to. Neither do we.
This info courtesy of the Chicago area FAA, where Aeroflash is based.
I'm off my soapbox now that this is clarified, and I'll be getting back to
work. I have lots to do.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Larsen <larsenj(at)minot.ndak.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 HS Root Rib/Spar Attachment |
Listers:
In the upper right hand corner of plan 3PP there is a drawing labeled "typical
rib-spar rivet detail" which shows three rivets attaching HS405 to the rear spar.
I can't find anywhere else on the plan where the center rivet is shown.
This rivet will require modification of the squeezer set in order to get between
the two 609 flange strips. Should there be a rivet here or not?
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynafocal Mounts |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
Tony Binglis "Firewall Forward" shows this very nicely.
Cecil
Thousand Oaks
>A friend not on the list said he received no instructions with his
>Dynafocal
>Lord Mounts, nor are there instructions in is RV manual as to where
>the bolts
>and washers are to go. There are two lengths of bolts and two
>different
>thickness of fender washers. Also, Vans has inclueded 8 thinner fender
>washers. Can anyone describe how these are to be used. Couldn't find
>it in
>the archives. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Luker, Michael G." <luker.michael(at)mayo.edu> |
In the summer during hot humid days with temps above 88 degrees I've
experienced some high oil temp readings. I have an 0-360-A1A on an
RV6A, oil cooler is mounted on the baffling behind the number 4
cylinder. In a climb my oil temp climbs to about 102 degrees Cel.
that's about 216 F. Then levels off at about 98 cel once I've leveled
the airplane off. I know others have experienced the same problem, but
I was unable to find anything in the archives. Please respond to E-mail
luker.michael(at)mayo.edu Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
>
>I'm told amateur built a/c operate under FAR Part 21, which includes NO
STROBE
>LIGHTING REQUIREMENTS. You can use boat lighting if you so desire. You can
use
>1200CP strobes (approved under Part 25) if you desire. You can use a
>flashlight!
>
>The 400 CP requirement is under FAR Part 23, which simply DOES NOT APPLY to
>those of us operating amateur built aircraft. As Part 23 does not apply, no
>"ruling" from our friendly FAA is necessary to let us use Aeroflash
lighting
>on our amateur built aircraft. Type certificated aircraft are a whole
>different matter as we all know. *That's* why we have amateur built
aircraft,
>right?
>
Mark,
This is true, however part 91 sets the rules for VFR night. Part
91.205(c),3 requires "approved" anticollision light(s). No exemptions for
experimentals. How then do we determine if the system is "approved".
Typically the FAA will classify approved as meeting the standards of part 23
for new installations. Also the testing procedures are defined in AC20.74
(applicable to all aircraft).
I guess some strobes are better than none, but why cheat an established
standard which has been selected to give adequate visibility based on the
speeds of small airplanes.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | RV-6 HS Root Rib/Spar Attachment |
>Listers:
>In the upper right hand corner of plan 3PP there is a drawing labeled
>"typical rib-spar rivet detail" which shows three rivets attaching
>HS405 to the rear spar. I can't find anywhere else on the plan where
>the center rivet is shown. This rivet will require modification of
>the squeezer set in order to get between the two 609 flange strips.
>Should there be a rivet here or not?
>Jim
Jim:
I think the "rear" spar only gets 2 rivets in each rib. Compare the rest
of the drwg.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>Mark,
>
>This is true, however part 91 sets the rules for VFR night. Part
>91.205(c),3 requires "approved" anticollision light(s). No exemptions for
>experimentals. How then do we determine if the system is "approved".
>Typically the FAA will classify approved as meeting the standards of part 23
>for new installations. Also the testing procedures are defined in AC20.74
>(applicable to all aircraft).
>
My concern would be having the FAA question me about my Aeroflash units
when it comes time to sign off the aircraft for night flight. Will they
say "Ummm... these units are not approved for night flight. Replace
them or stay day VFR".
How many Aeroflash units out there flying at night?
Is the FAA aware that this particular brand does not meet all the funny
numbers mentioned above?
Do they care?
Do we?
>
>I guess some strobes are better than none, but why cheat an established
>standard which has been selected to give adequate visibility based on the
>speeds of small airplanes.
>
Because they cost half as much.
Bottom line - is there really a visible difference?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp, rudder skeleton together, wings ordered today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Hi all,
Just back from Oshkosh and back on the list. I've posted some photos from
Oshkosh '98 to my website for those who might want to have a look.
Bill Pagan
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernard Banche" <bb8212(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zoche aero diesel |
Check out the Deltahawk web site. The engine is a bit more
conventional( a v4 configuration). The program also seems to be a bit
further along. In concept it appears to be very similar to the NASA
funded research program. In terms of weight, power and economy, it may
be hard to beat. The company intends to obtain FAA certification.It
looks like they may be flying in a relativly short time.
BB8212(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 HS Root Rib/Spar Attachment |
larsenj(at)minot.ndak.net wrote:
> In the upper right hand corner of plan 3PP there is a drawing labeled
> "typical rib-spar rivet detail" which shows three rivets attaching
> HS405 to the rear spar.
Jim,
I remember puzzling over this too. From my Bunny's Guide at
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny1a.htm>:
Note that the "Typical rivet placement" diagram on the plan only
applies to the centre-rib/front-spar join, NOT the root ribs. Hardly
typical!
Attaching ribs to the rear spar: To do this, first draw a line,
where the rivets will go, about the middle of the rib flange which
will
attach to the spar. (Hint: You're going to need the
flange-centreline-marking-tool described by Vans; you might as well
make it now.) Then use Cleco side-clamps or something similar to clamp
strips of aluminium to the top and bottom of the spar, and to the rib.
This technique is shown on the Orndorff video, but in a slightly
different context. Shuffle the rib around until you have your line
lined up through the middle of the two holes. Now clamp it securely,
check it's still lined, and drill to #30 size.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bright <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 HS Root Rib/Spar Attachment |
== clip ===
In the upper right hand corner of plan 3PP there is a drawing labeled
"typical rib-spar rivet detail" which shows three rivets attaching HS405 to
the rear spar. I can't find anywhere else on the plan where the center
rivet is shown. This rivet will require modification of the squeezer set
in order to get between the two 609 flange strips. Should there be a rivet
here or not?
== clip ===
No rivet there. When I called Van's about this I was told to put the center
rivet where you have access to do so, otherwise leave it out. BTW "typical
rib-spar rivet detail" applies to the entire empennage... not just the HS.
http://www.hroads.net/~john/
John Bright, Newport News, VA, USA, john.bright(at)bigfoot.com, RV-6/6A 25088,
empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Bolt in engine cylinder |
> I want to pass on an experience I had that I don't want anyone else to
> have. I have Van's supplied 0-320 that I modified with a Bendix fuel
> injection and Electroaires electronic ignition on the bottom plugs.
> On takeoff, I had a very sudden and extreme loss in power. Since the
> runway was long and I was only about 6 ft in the air, I was able to
> quickly get it down with no problem. I was VERY lucky when it
> happened although at the time I sure didn't think so since I was to
> leave for Oshkosh in two days!
> I started checking the electrical and the first spark plug I pulled
> out, lower plug in cylinder #4, had a broken ceramic that is around
> the central electrode and the electrodes themselves were well beaten.
> At first I thought the ceramic broke because it was defective and the
> broken piece proceeded to beat up on the electrodes. I took off the
> intake manifold pipe to the #4 cylinder to see if pieces of the
> ceramic were in there since I couldn't find any in the cylinder
> itself. What I found was a well-done and well-beaten bolt laying in
> the bottom of the intake. I then took off the airbox and sure enough,
> one of the four bolts that hold the airbox mounting plate to the
> bottom of the fuel injection (or carb)was missing. I had heard of
> this (these bolts getting sucked up into the cylinder) happening
> before from RVator and was careful to use the lock tabs that Van's
> supplies to ensure the bolts don't come out. After this, I would not
> depend on those tabs. All four of my bolts have holes in the heads
> and are daisy chain safety wired together.
> As a happy ending, I made it to Oshkosh as planned and had a great
> time in Mecca inspite of the poor weather in the mid-west.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
>Is the FAA aware that this particular brand does not meet all the funny
>numbers mentioned above?
Yes. In general they know that TSO or PMA units meet the requirements,
otherwise a decent inspector will question it.
>Do they care? Yes if they think of it. For experimentals this probably
means that someone must complain about you first. (I've already asked the
FAA this question)
>Do we? Depends on how important it is for someone else to see you.
>
>>
>>I guess some strobes are better than none, but why cheat an established
>>standard which has been selected to give adequate visibility based on the
>>speeds of small airplanes.
>>
>
>Because they cost half as much.
>Bottom line - is there really a visible difference?
If it is putting out half the light, yes.
Like many questions of this nature, it only has to do with your perception
of how this effects your lifespan. People will spend thousands on wing
levelers and the such which are convenience items but won't spend a couple
of extra bucks on good seatbelts. Go figure.
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
>
>
>This is true, however part 91 sets the rules for VFR night. Part
>91.205(c),3 requires "approved" anticollision light(s). No exemptions for
>experimentals. How then do we determine if the system is "approved".
These lights would be approved in the same manner as the strobes on an
airplane that was built before the 400cps requirement, by virtue of the
aircraft certification, in this case Experimental which doesn't require part
23 compliance. You don't have to replace the AeroFlash strobes on your old
spam can to fly at night. Same here. Right or Wrong that is my story and I
am sticking with it. I think I am right.
Tailwinds, RV-4 "the pink panther"
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
I'm not sure that I understand the problem. These strobes ARE being
approved in RV's...signed off by DAR's....that should be enough, right?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Waiting on Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The best laid plans |
<< Overhead rudder pedals. Fuselage kit manufactured in 1993.
The weldment broke where the torque tube and "U" intersect. I went over to
Van's tent and Scott was very helpful. He instructed me to have "fingers"
wrapped around the torque tube to hold the "U" in place. Worked like a
charm,
thanks Scott.
The torque tube wall is .032 4130. It should probably be heaver. There is a
SB regarding this entire event in the last RVator. Seems I needs to lighten-
up on the rudders. >>
Keep in mind that you taildragger guys are on the rudder pedals (the U part)
more than us nosedragger types (S-turning and the like) and the forces placed
on the pedals are greater since you are turning the tailwheel also. Us
nosedragger guys use the brakes (the pedal part) more to get the front wheel
to castor but we use very rudder on the ground and even less in the air.
Of course us 6A drivers wear out the brake pads faster.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
<< My concern would be having the FAA question me about my Aeroflash units
when it comes time to sign off the aircraft for night flight. Will they
say "Ummm... these units are not approved for night flight. Replace
them or stay day VFR".
How many Aeroflash units out there flying at night?
Is the FAA aware that this particular brand does not meet all the funny
numbers mentioned above?>>
Some do but they are copping out because they are just lazy IMO.
<>
The inspector that ramp checks you might.
<< Do we? >>
I do.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
Dan,
Agreed, a good 5 point harness can be had for less than $100, and skimping
on that seems pretty cheap. On the other hand spending $500 or more for a
couple of light bulbs (yeah I know this over simplifies things but you get
my point) really irks me. I dont consider myself cheap, financially
challenged maybe (2 college age kids). It seems that airplane construction
doesnt "nickel and dime you to death", its $500 here and $1K there. There
has to be a cheaper way to go thats still safe. I may never get this thing
done at the rate its draining my bank account.
Basic day VFR for me; no wing levelers!
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
People will spend thousands on wing
>levelers and the such which are convenience items but won't spend a couple
>of extra bucks on good seatbelts. Go figure.
>
>
>Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
Hi all - wow, a lot accumulates while I was at OSH.
Maybe we all have different requirements for lighting. I fly very little at
night but it is mostly while returning to a heavy traffic area usually from the
north along the east bay past San Francisco to San Jose. There are a bazillion
lights blazing all around. I am *ALWAYS* using flight following and often IFR.
I don't want someone to fly into me but I really don't worry about it much. I
have more to worry about like the Continental up front.
I also don't want to spend as much as a Lear Jet for lights. Whelen's lights
are priced like - well like everything else, excessive. Position lights should
be available for $10 each; $30 for all three. Strobes are neat but not required
or necessary. I can install a flashing halogen made by Whelen for $80. It is
FAA approved and that is more than good enough for me. Your mileage may vary.
I looked at a beautiful airplane at OSH. Sat in it even. I was able to get in
without contortions of my weary body and oh, did that glove leather on the seats
feel good. Roomy, air conditioned, all the best is what I deserve I said to
myself. A fresh new Bonanza - $508,000! I can't hack it and I'm not going to
make my RV into one.
hal
>
> I guess some strobes are better than none, but why cheat an established
> standard which has been selected to give adequate visibility based on the
> speeds of small airplanes.
>
> Dan Morris
> RV6
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | MN Sat Breakfast |
Listers:
Just to clarify to those interested, the bi-monthly breakfast gathering of
the MN Wing will still be held at the Hideaway Cafe at STP this Sat. at
0900. The Confederate Air Force's Air Power display will be in progress
that day but Trish at the Cafe says it will be business as usual and she
has reserved us a table.
I'm not sure where transient fly-ins will be parked since the warbirds will
be on the ramp in front of the terminal. If you drive, you may have to
explain to the air show parking folks that you are just going to the cafe
for breakfast and do not want to park with the air show crowd. Hope this
works and hope to see some of you Sat.
Doug
Mn Wing
============
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
Seems to be a big thread about light bulbs and certified components on our
RVs.
I believe it all started when we read about the Avemco denial of a claim in which
the builder changed fuel system components. One guy wrote that he had re-installed
the fuel system back to its original configuration but still his certification
was void.
Talked to Avemco at Oshkosh and they said the fuel system on that aircraft
was not installed to its original configuration and they wouldn't have questioned
the
mans claim if it weren't for the FAA listing this as the cause of the accident.
They
even had testimony from Burt Rutan who said the system couldn't work the way
the man had it and his prints for the fuel system hadn't been followed.
I did my own overhaul and questioned the FAA about removing my data plate
from the engine. They said as long as it had certified Lycoming engine parts installed
the engine was still a Lycoming and wondered what I was talking about. Just because
the
engine wasn't put together by an A&P didn't mean I didn't have a
Lycoming engine.
I would suggest that if you have a question as important
as your
airplanes
certification, you should talk to the FAA and get their response in writing ( thats
what I'm doing ) The list is a good place to get advice on building and product
endorsement but it's no place to get advice that could ruin your financial future.
If Avemco or any other insurance company based their reputation on claim
denials, they wouldn't stay in business. I hope I never see the day that a mishap
is not covered because the light bulbs weren't bright enough.
I believe we are fortunate that we fly RVs. Avemco will be the first to let
you
know that RVs are considered one of the most respected homebuilts there is and
the rates given to RVs are one of the lowest. ( at least is was for me ) $650 for
taxi and hull at 45K and 1mil.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High oil temp |
Your temps are very close to what I see in my RV. According to the manuel, red
line is 245 degreesF. According to some "experts" I've talked to, 210 - 220F
is no problem. They say it takes at least 212F to boil the moisture out of the
oil.
Walt. RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Burger" <hbarca(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Walter Lom engines |
Dear Rv'ers,
Has anyone other than Jim Ayers had any luck installing a Walter Lom
engine in an RV? No offense Mr. Ayers, I was trying to find out if
anybody had any luck putting one on an Rv-6. I really don't want to use
a Lyco-saur. Also, a question for Mr. Ayers, "If you were going to
build an Rv-6, which Walter-Lom engine would you recommend?" I plan on
doing some casual aerobatics.
I thank you all four your help,
Scott Burger
saving money for the tools and the empennage kit
Nunca tenga miedo de lograr...
Never be afraid to achieve...
N'avez jamais peur d'achever...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
I'm told amateur built a/c operate under FAR Part 21, which includes NO
STROBE
>LIGHTING REQUIREMENTS.
snip
<< Mark,
This is true, however part 91 sets the rules for VFR night. Part
91.205(c),3 requires "approved" anticollision light(s). No exemptions for
experimentals. How then do we determine if the system is "approved".
Refer back at Part 21 for the "approval", which is the basis for approval of
your amateur built a/c. As no lighting requirements are listed, no exemption
is necessary. No approval or compliance is required, available, nor necessary.
A bit weird, but keep in mind that Part 21 is the *basis* for the aircraft
(and its equipment) "approval", not Part 91.
Again, Part 23, which contains the 400CP requirement, does not apply to
amateur built aircraft.
This from the Chicago area FAA.
This from me:
I recognize the (sometimes overstated) necessity for anti-collision lighting.
Please don't confuse my stating that the 100CP Aeroflash systems are legal
with a condemnation of more powerful systems. I simply don't feel that way. If
you want 400CP systems on your bird- go for it! Freedom of choice is a very
valuable thing! BUT!! Don't be spreading mis-information about any equipment I
or others may be selling, or using. Be d*mn sure of what you write on this
subject, as it could cause a good deal of grief. Look for yourself in Part 21
if you feel it's necessary, but if 6 different feds say the same thing (how
rare is that?), I think I'd better believe it.
Check six!
Mark
HR2 with Aeroflash strobes
Dan Morris
RV6
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wingtip nav lights from a boat shop??? |
I also don't want to spend as much as a Lear Jet for lights. Whelen's lights
are priced like - well like everything else, excessive. Position lights
should
be available for $10 each; $30 for all three.
I looked at Bill Davis' v clean -4, and noticed the tip lights. When queried,
Bill related as to how he got them at a boat shop! I'd guess $10 for both, and
completely legal for use on an amateur built.
The tail light can be an auto socket molded into the rudder, where you would
install the bulb (#1156 or 1157- I can't recall which is a single filament)
before flying at night. This from Steve Whitman.
These two tips can save a few bucks for your kids college fund.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
<< My concern would be having the FAA question me about my Aeroflash units
when it comes time to sign off the aircraft for night flight. Will they
say "Ummm... these units are not approved for night flight. Replace
them or stay day VFR". >>
Tell him to show you where the requirement for lighting is is Part 21 (
specifically 21.191- the certification area for your bird). There simply isn't
one.
BTW- my ship flys just fine with these units installed- day or nite.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Lewis" <lewy(at)lanset.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
> Hi all - wow, a lot accumulates while I was at OSH.
>
> Maybe we all have different requirements for lighting. I fly very little at
> night but it is mostly while returning to a heavy traffic area usually from the
> north along the east bay past San Francisco to San Jose. There are a bazillion
> lights blazing all around. I am *ALWAYS* using flight following and often IFR.
>
> I don't want someone to fly into me but I really don't worry about it much.
I
> have more to worry about like the Continental up front.
>
> I also don't want to spend as much as a Lear Jet for lights. Whelen's lights
> are priced like - well like everything else, excessive. Position lights should
> be available for $10 each; $30 for all three. Strobes are neat but not required
> or necessary. I can install a flashing halogen made by Whelen for $80. It is
> FAA approved and that is more than good enough for me. Your mileage may vary.
>
> I looked at a beautiful airplane at OSH. Sat in it even. I was able to get
in
> without contortions of my weary body and oh, did that glove leather on the seats
> feel good. Roomy, air conditioned, all the best is what I deserve I said to
> myself. A fresh new Bonanza - $508,000! I can't hack it and I'm not going to
> make my RV into one.
>
> hal
>
> >
> > I guess some strobes are better than none, but why cheat an established
> > standard which has been selected to give adequate visibility based on the
> > speeds of small airplanes.
> >
> > Dan Morris
> > RV6
Hey Hal, I agree with that. There are Bonanzas and Citations for those
that can afford them. For the some of us though there are RV's,
Tailwinds, T-18's and Baby Aces. Depending on just how much you can
budget for your hobbie.
--
Jim Lewis
Just an opinion mindya
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
<< Is the FAA aware that this particular brand does not meet all the funny
numbers mentioned above?>>
Those funny numbers are in Part 23 for 'type certificated' aircraft. Your RV
is not a 'type certificated' ship, so look for your certificate requirements
in Part 21.191 and 21.193.
Some do but they are copping out because they are just lazy IMO.
Nope. The regs are there. See above.
<>
The inspector that ramp checks you might.
Doesn't matter. See above.
Check six!
Mark
<< Do we? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: High oil temp |
I too have been struggling with oil temps since I began flying my 6A. At
the worst of it, on 70 degree days I would see it climb to 230 degrees
at 65% power.
My oil cooler is mounted on the firewall with a 3" scat tube leading
into it from the rear baffle.
I have found that the following things have helped.
1] I removed the oil cooler and cleaned it as well as I can. I cleaned
the outside with a pressure washer at a car wash, especially trying to
get between the fins. Be carefull with the amount of pressure used as it
will bend and damage the fins. Then I filled it with acetone to clean
the inside and let it soak overnight.
2] I renewed my efforts to seal the pathway from the engine baffle to
the oil cooler with RTV, including where the adapter fits onto the
cooler. There were places where air was able to escape.
3] I take extra care now to make sure the rubber baffle seal is sitting
in the right direction both when I replace the top cowl after
maintenance and even as part of my normal preflight. A few weeks ago
after about 20 minutes flying I noticed that my oil temp had gone up to
about 220. On landing I did a quick examination and found that about 3"
of the baffle seal was flipped over in the wrong direction. I pushed it
back over with a broom stick and took off again. This time it sat nicely
at between 175-180. That was an amazing difference in temps for such a
small hole in the seal.
I think the key to oil temps is to push as much air as possible through
the cooler. Take steps to accomplish this and your problem may go away.
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity stick grips - usage |
I'm contemplating putting my flap switch on an infinity grip. Is there
anybody out there that has done this and flown with it? I'm worried
that excessive switch handling on the stick may result in somewhat
erratic flight since the RV is so light on the controls. Is this a
problem at all? If so, I'll put the flap toggle between the throttle
and prop governor.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Grubb <sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com> |
| Subject: | Are Newer Kits Backwards Compatible With Older Kits? |
RV'ers:
I have located a pre-punched RV6/6A wing kit I may purchase.
If this is an older wing kit, will it still work with the new empennage and
fuselage kits? In other words, is each kit (empennage, wings, fuselage,
finishing) compatible with the other kits regardless of their age?
How often does Vans change the kit components? Is there a list somewhere
showing the different versions of the kits?
Thanks for your help!
Shawn Grubb
Hydro, Oklahoma
Ready To Order Empennage Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Burger" <hbarca(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Walter Lom engine in RV-6 |
Dear Rv'ers,
Has anyone other than Jim Ayers had any luck installing a
Walter Lom
engine in an RV? No offense Mr. Ayers, I was trying to
find out if
anybody had any luck putting one on an Rv-6. I really
don't want to use
a Lyco-saur. Also, a question for Mr. Ayers, "If you were
going to
build an Rv-6, which Walter-Lom engine would you
recommend?" I plan on
doing some casual aerobatics.
I thank you all four your help,
Scott Burger
saving money for the tools and the empennage kit
Nunca tenga miedo de lograr...
Never be afraid to achieve...
N'avez jamais peur d'achever...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
Just remember that the person doing the ramp check works for the same
federal agency that treated Bob Hoover in a rational, courteous manner,
followed the regulations and responded in a with a quick apology when
people pointed out that the agency might have made a mistake. The
person certifying your airplane also works for the same agency.
Steve Soule
Keeping his head down, out of the line of fire and avoiding
confrontation with the Feds and the horse(s) they rode in on so I can
fly this thing someday.
-----Original Message-----
The inspector that ramp checks you might.
Doesn't matter. See above.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Are Newer Kits Backwards Compatible With Older Kits? |
Shawn,
Make sure the wing kit includes the F604 fuselage bulkhead. This is
drilled to fit the wing spar. Accept no substitutes!
I think that kits are compatible, but I would call Van's before plunking
down any money.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A fuselage aft baggage compartment panels
-----Original Message-----
From: Shawn Grubb [mailto:sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com]
If this is an older wing kit, will it still work with
the new empennage and
fuselage kits? In other words, is each kit (empennage,
wings, fuselage,
finishing) compatible with the other kits regardless of
their age?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>Just remember that the person doing the ramp check works for the same
>federal agency that treated Bob Hoover in a rational, courteous manner,
>followed the regulations and responded in a with a quick apology when
>people pointed out that the agency might have made a mistake. The
>person certifying your airplane also works for the same agency.
>
>Steve Soule
>Keeping his head down, out of the line of fire and avoiding
>confrontation with the Feds and the horse(s) they rode in on so I can
>fly this thing someday.
Steve, Steve, Steve - you do that and they've won!
Step 1. Get your ducks in a row.
Step 2. Install what you want - we're experimentals!
Step 3. Hold your head _up_ and challenge stupidity (but make sure you've
observed Step 1.)
I figure a good strobe I can afford now is better than an "approved" strobe
I can afford next year.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp, rudder in the V-blocks, wings on the waaaayyy!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
<< Step 1. Get your ducks in a row.
Step 2. Install what you want - we're experimentals!
Step 3. Hold your head _up_ and challenge stupidity (but make sure you've
observed Step 1.)
>>
Very good! This applies in many other aspects of life...obviously.
Will you be at the ice cream social Friday?
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hill <hill(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Superior Air parts XP engine |
With all the talk of the Zoche aero diesel I was wondering what people
thought of the XP engine using Superior Air parts (I don't have the brochure
here so I may be a little off on the facts). Anyway sounded perfect to me.
Basically it's an O-360 being built (but not certified, hence the XP for
experimental) using mostly certified superior air parts. It sounded better
than an O-360 in many aspects: better castings, more lubrication points,
10:1 pistons. Put's out 190 horsepower. They didn't have a cost yet but were
expecting 16k assembled or about 2k less if you wanted to assemble some of
it yourself (they still do much of the assembly at the plant). This engine
has been ran already, sounded like they'd be shipping by next year. If Vans
cam up with an OEM price maybe my dreams of a cheap new O-360 aren't to far off?
P.S. They said they're developing fuel injection for it but power drops to
185 due to not enough air? When asked why anyone would do it then he said
for acro. Anyway this engine sure did look good.
Chris Hill
RV-8 VS finished - moving on to the rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
> << Get the Mountain High... spend the extra $'s for the electronic
regulator.
> >>
>
> Just out of curiosity, what is the per person (2) duration of this system
at
> 15,000 ft using a 13 cu ft cylinder? The standard Aerox (no electronic
reg)
> is 7 hrs each.
>
> -GV
Gil,
The Mountain High catalog shows data for a 14.6 max cu foot cylinder with
a typical 13.1 cu foot at 1800 psig at 70 F. The Nelson A4 flowmeter with
a mask will last 4.12 man (woman) hours, a Nelson A3 flowmeter with
oxymizer canula lasts 11.53 man hours and the EDS-1 electronic regulator
will last 28.83. They state the EDS "will typical have two times savings
over the A3 flowmeter at the various altitudes up to 30,000 feet."
The cost for a two person system...tank, canulas, masks, flowmeters,
tubing, regulator(s):
Regular regulator (only one needed).....$450
EDS (two needed)................$1,475
I would think you could buy a lot of O2 for $1,000......even if you used
aviation grade ;)
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Are Newer Kits Backwards Compatible With Older Kits? |
In a message dated 8/5/98 9:25:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com writes:
<< In other words, is each kit (empennage, wings, fuselage,
finishing) compatible with the other kits regardless of their age? >>
I would certainly think that this should be true. You will, however, have to
pay attention to drawing changes that have occured over time. I would not
think that you should have a problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes- Legal?? |
<< Just remember that the person doing the ramp check works for the same
federal agency that treated Bob Hoover in a rational, courteous manner,
followed the regulations and responded in a with a quick apology when
people pointed out that the agency might have made a mistake. The
person certifying your airplane also works for the same agency. >>
And what about the Nevada FSDO that put out the memo contrary to FAA policy
regarding autofuel use in aircraft engines. And what about the line inspector
that that wrote up and grounded all the a/c with bent prop tips (they're
designed that way) on the ramp in Southern CA. These guys aren't always
playing with a full deck and you believe their words at your peril.
When your inspector comes out to sign off your a/c, make sure that you have
written in your a/c log book that the anticollision lighting system installed
is not an approved type and get him to sign this off as okay. Protect
yourself.
Don't get Hooverized, get it in writing,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes |
Below is the "final" word reposted from the Kitfox List, where this issue has
been broiling hot and heavy for the last month or so, so we needn't continue
beating a dead horse.
Mark Frederick is apparently correct and Paul Messinger and I are wrong. The
FAA has determined that any strobe system (the Aeroflash or even one of your
own making) is acceptable for use on any Experimental a/c (day or night). By
this line of reasoning, there are no intensity, blinking rate or coverage
requirements for the lighting system whatsoever. Hopefully they still want
the red position lamp on the left and the green one on the right, but there is
no requirement to do so. At least not one you can take to the bank.
-GV
<< Regarding the anticollision lighting requirements for experimental
aircraft, I found the following at the top of the FAA.
I eventually followed the trail of requirements for Night VFR lighting
for Experimental aircraft to the following FAA office.
Small Aircraft Directorate
Regulations and Policy Div.
Kansas City , Kansas USA
Phone 816-426-6941.
The person I talked to declined to be directly quoted but said to call
the above number for information. He said that this office is the "top
authority" in the FAA.
Basically he said the Experimental certificated aircraft need not meet
FAR's as the "Type certificated" aircraft do. It's up to the individual
inspector to determine if the aircraft is appropriately configured.
Specifically if the inspector requires 400 effective candle lighting he
should inquire at the above office as there is no such requirement. "If it
looks bright
and flashes its probably OK."
I must report that a personal survey of several inspectors felt the need
for 400 effective candle units.
Paul Messinger
EAA Technical Counselor >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Walter Lom engines |
In a message dated 8/5/98 9:55:10 Central Daylight Time, hbarca(at)hotmail.com
writes:
<< No offense Mr. Ayers, I was trying to find out if anybody had any luck
putting one on an Rv-6. I really don't want to use a Lyco-saur. Also, a
question for Mr. Ayers, "If you were going to build an Rv-6, which Walter-Lom
engine would you recommend?" I plan on doing some casual aerobatics. >>
I almost can't wait to see the answer you get.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
Misquote!
I was recommending the Nelson system over the Aveox one. I totally
agree with your the equipment vs. savings cost analysis with the EDS
system. I also think the basic Nelson regulator is about $175. Are you
quoting the entire system costs with tank, etc.??
...Gil (a Nelson O2 system user) Alexander
PS (for RV6 guys only)... a 22 cu ft. cylinder will stand upright just
behind the F-604 bulkhead, and put the regulator within easy reach. No O2
plumbing lines needed, just attach the regulator to the cylinder, and
directly screw in two quick-attach receptacles for the flexible lines
(Tygon) to the cannulas (cannulae?) via the Nelson regulator/flowmeters.
PPS prices are on-line at:
http://www.glider.com/wings/page34-35.htm
Tim Mara (glider supplier - Wings and Wheels) is a good guy to do
business with
>
>> << Get the Mountain High... spend the extra $'s for the electronic
>regulator.
>> >>
>>
>> Just out of curiosity, what is the per person (2) duration of this system
>at
>> 15,000 ft using a 13 cu ft cylinder? The standard Aerox (no electronic
>reg)
>> is 7 hrs each.
>>
>> -GV
>
>Gil,
>
>The Mountain High catalog shows data for a 14.6 max cu foot cylinder with
>a typical 13.1 cu foot at 1800 psig at 70 F. The Nelson A4 flowmeter with
>a mask will last 4.12 man (woman) hours, a Nelson A3 flowmeter with
>oxymizer canula lasts 11.53 man hours and the EDS-1 electronic regulator
>will last 28.83. They state the EDS "will typical have two times savings
>over the A3 flowmeter at the various altitudes up to 30,000 feet."
>
>The cost for a two person system...tank, canulas, masks, flowmeters,
>tubing, regulator(s):
>
>Regular regulator (only one needed).....$450
>EDS (two needed)................$1,475
>
>I would think you could buy a lot of O2 for $1,000......even if you used
>aviation grade ;)
>
>Ross
>
>
>
>
>
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Walter Lom engines |
<< Dear Rv'ers,
(Stuff Cut)
a question for Mr. Ayers, "If you were going to
build an Rv-6, which Walter-Lom engine would you recommend?" I plan on
doing some casual aerobatics.
I thank you all four your help,
Scott Burger
saving money for the tools and the empennage kit >>
Hi All,
The LOM M332BK. It is the 160 Hp version of the four cylinder engine.
It includes fuel injection and an inverted oil system.
Jim Ayers
N47RV Maroon Marauder
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Least Drag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Walter Lom engines |
<< Subj: Re: RV-List: Walter Lom engines
Date: 98-08-05 22:41:02 EDT
From: WBWard(at)aol.com
In a message dated 8/5/98 9:55:10 Central Daylight Time, hbarca(at)hotmail.com
writes:
<< No offense Mr. Ayers, I was trying to find out if anybody had any luck
putting one on an Rv-6. I really don't want to use a Lyco-saur. Also, a
question for Mr. Ayers, "If you were going to build an Rv-6, which Walter-Lom
engine would you recommend?" I plan on doing some casual aerobatics. >>
I almost can't wait to see the answer you get.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM >>
Hi All,
Actually, I just got the answer in the mail today. Page 76 of this months
Sport Aviation.
The large picture on page 76 is of the dirty side of the RV-3.
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sport Aviation Maroon Marauder |
Hi All,
I just received my August 1998 issue of Sport Aviation.
Jack Cox wrote a very nice article my Maroon Marauder on page 76.
I was really impressed with the background information Jack has available in
the article on the LOM engine.
BTW, I normally have a spinner on the prop. The spinner went to Oshkosh, in
pieces in the baggage compartment of Bob Archer's Bellanca. But that's
another story.
Jim Ayers
Least Drag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers,
While landing on the grass today, my front gear leg snapped off almost
flush with the motor mount. The aircraft was down on the mains (full
flaps) and slowing with full back stick (I always land full stall).
Shortly after the nose gear came down, and after I started applying
brakes, the leg collapsed. The prop made contact with the turf three
times prior to actually stopping, bending one blade of the prop (metal)
back about 30 degrees and slightly bending the other. The lower cowl,
especially the air intake area, was damaged by the short stop, as well as
the spinner. Other than the gear leg, nothing departed the plane. At the
time of prop impact, the engine was at full idle.
I'll have metallurgy tests performed on the on the leg to determine
what happened and keep you all informed. I have approximately 1135 Hrs
on the plane, but never really expected this type of failure.
Are there any qualified A/P's out there that might suggest what I
should do about the engine (ie, hard stoppage/tear down???? or just
dial the crank out???)....
Guess I should be thankfull it happened on turf and not a hard
runway.......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | New Daily Message Count Graphs! |
Hello Listers,
I've added something new and fun to each of the List web pages. At the
bottom of each of the pages you will find a new link to the "Daily Message
Traffic Graphs". These are graphs of the daily message traffic for each
of the Lists dating back to the start of each List. Its really kind of
neat to see how the traffic has grown over the years. Please have a
look; I'm sure you'll find them interesting. The graphs are updated
each day at 4:00am so you can keep up-to-the-day tabs on your favorite
List! ;-)
The URLs:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
http://www.matronics.com/kolb-list
http://www.matronics.com/zenith-list
Have fun, and best regards,
Matt Dralle
The Lists Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN CRATE" <JOHN.CRATE(at)encode.com> |
| Subject: | Sydney Australia listers |
HI
My family and I are travelling from Canada to visit Australia Sept 15/98
and are having trouble getting the internal travel info we need re: Sydney
to Brisbane and Mackay. If someone knows what options are available and
could spare 10 or 15 minutes to pin down specifics for us (dates, times,
and prices for what we need), it would be greatly appreciated.
If you are able to help, could you please reply off list and I will reply
with more specific info.
Thanks, and sorry to abuse the list.
John Crate
RV-6A (Starting Fuselage)
john.crate(at)encode.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
Fred: VERY SORRY to hear about your mishap. Glad you were unhurt. I think
all of us who have had divergent porpoising white-knuckle landings are worried
about this happening, but I never considered the possibility of sudden failure
during a later landing. I've had enough "Help me, Jesus!" landings on bumpy
turf in my 20 RV-6A hours to where maybe I should pull the leg now and have it
checked for fatigue cracks. A failure at any time could ruin my whole day, as
you know firsthand.
I am curious as to how many bouncy landings you have had in your 1100 hrs, and
if any were particularly memorable (violent). I regret to say I already have
two or three in this category: two on turf strips and one on asphalt resulting
from an aborted takeoff. There are times I'd rather have a tailwheel, and I
don't have but 4 hrs in those! I guess the secret with the -6A is slow
touchdown speeds (and slow approaches), good depth perception in the flare
(looking at the far end of the runway), and freezing the stick/adding a burst
of power at the first sign of a hard bounce. This springy gear is not very
forgiving of any failure to land gently and slowly. I can't WAIT to see how
it does with more weight than just me and the gas... Yikes!
-Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N-number search on Landings.com |
I am trying to find out what N numbers are still available before I send my
$10.00 in to the FAA. In using Landings.com as some have said, I can only find
database for numbers issued, not numbers available. If I just send $10 to the
FAA with my 10 preferred #,s, and they are all taken, what happens then? Do
they send it back and have you pick another 10 or just assign you a number? If
any of you RV guys have recently turned down a number or know of any
available, how about e-mailing me directly and then I can put that # down at
the top of my list? Would like something ending in RV, but just about anything
that is not a tongue-twister will do. I was at Oshkosh, and plain forgot to
check with FAA at their booth on this issue.
Any help appreciated.
Von Alexander
RV-8
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | N-number search on Landings.com |
The Landings.com databases have both "in-use" and "reserved" N-number
capabilities, available on two separate web pages. Rather than look for a
list of AVAILABLE numbers, try running numbers you DESIRE through those two
search engines. I ran my numbers through, and then called the FAA to
verify their availability.
The FAA was much excited to find out about the database available at
landings.com, and asked that I send them the instructions on how to use it,
so that they could direct people to it in the future.
I sent in the money to reserve a tail number with only three numbers on the
list, knowing that they were all available.
Good luck!
Brad
N188FW
-6A Empennage
>
>I am trying to find out what N numbers are still available before I send my
>$10.00 in to the FAA. In using Landings.com as some have said, I can only
find
>database for numbers issued, not numbers available. If I just send $10 to the
>FAA with my 10 preferred #,s, and they are all taken, what happens then? Do
>they send it back and have you pick another 10 or just assign you a
number? If
>any of you RV guys have recently turned down a number or know of any
>available, how about e-mailing me directly and then I can put that # down at
>the top of my list? Would like something ending in RV, but just about
anything
>that is not a tongue-twister will do. I was at Oshkosh, and plain forgot to
>check with FAA at their booth on this issue.
>Any help appreciated.
>Von Alexander
>RV-8
>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
BWKJ
// signature //
Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
ICQ# 11770815
URGENT MESSAGES: email
pagekidder(at)bigfoot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
It is ALWAYS the safest to just bite the bullet, and tear down the engine
after a stoppage, even a little one....some things you don't see when you
inspect the crank (dial out) cannot be seen....remember the lyc. AD.....also
I have seen the vac. pump damaged along with the thrust bearing....I had
another guy, who just dialed the crank after a stoppage that did nothing to
the prop, and after about 50hrs of operation, the prop departed the
aircraft!....however, chances are it didn't do too much damage, and just
think of the peace of mind when you fly over a LARGE lake, or over a BIG
stand of timber....good luck.....jolly
Frederic w Stucklen wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> While landing on the grass today, my front gear leg snapped off almost
> flush with the motor mount. The aircraft was down on the mains (full
> flaps) and slowing with full back stick (I always land full stall).
> Shortly after the nose gear came down, and after I started applying
> brakes, the leg collapsed. The prop made contact with the turf three
> times prior to actually stopping, bending one blade of the prop (metal)
> back about 30 degrees and slightly bending the other. The lower cowl,
> especially the air intake area, was damaged by the short stop, as well as
> the spinner. Other than the gear leg, nothing departed the plane. At the
> time of prop impact, the engine was at full idle.
>
> I'll have metallurgy tests performed on the on the leg to determine
> what happened and keep you all informed. I have approximately 1135 Hrs
> on the plane, but never really expected this type of failure.
>
> Are there any qualified A/P's out there that might suggest what I
> should do about the engine (ie, hard stoppage/tear down???? or just
> dial the crank out???)....
>
> Guess I should be thankfull it happened on turf and not a hard
> runway.......
>
> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> wstucklen1(at)juno.com
> E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N-number search on Landings.com |
VON,
i'm not sure which site you are looking for your ( preferred numbers ) but you
decide the number you want, then check the basic search 1st if it isn't
taken, there is a search for reserved numbers on the site, then if that
search reveals the numbers aren't taken, i would suspect you could reserve
you number.
hope this helps
scott reviere
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Beaton <kevin.beaton(at)usaa.com> |
RV Listers
How many of you are putting any kind of "finish" on the inside of
your fiberglass cowling? I'm told that the cowl must me prepared on the
inside so that the fiberglass will not absorb oil and ruin the exterior
finish.
Would appreciate your thoughts and experience.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
| From: | tcastella(at)Juno.com (Anthony J Castellano) |
Hi Fred:
Very sorry to hear about your mishap.
Four months ago, I had a similar occurance. I was taxiing my Bede-4 (nose
dragger)
into a grass tiedown area and the nosewheel fell into a hole that wasn't
supposed
to be there. A lot of dirt flew, the engine didn't stop, and didn't even
slow up. It was
running at about 1000 RPM.
The blades of my CS prop were pretty chewed up though.
I had Sensenich in PA repair the prop. They made it just like new for
$1410.
After consulting with several A&P's I decided not to tear the engine
(O-360) down
but to just do a runout on the shaft. When I pulled the ring gear to do
the runout, I
discovered that the crank prop flange had 2 cracks. It was a flange with
holes around the face between the bushings. The cracks where between the
holes near the short
bushings 180 deg apart.
Nedless to say I pulled the engine, bought a new crank (solid flange) and
did
essentially a major on a 700 hr since new engine.
With 11 hours on it, I flew it to Oshkosh and back.
Give me a call Fred, and I can give you a little more info such as where
to buy Cranks
(I sure hope you don't need one) etc.
Regards,
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (fuselage on gear)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N-number search on Landings.com |
<< I am trying to find out what N numbers are still available before I send my
$10.00 in to the FAA. >>
Why not call them? The number is in the RV Builders' Yeller pages on the net.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Young <gyoung(at)bcm.tmc.edu> |
| Subject: | N-number search on Landings.com |
If you are registering your aircraft I think they will assign a number if
your choices are not available, probably not if you are just reserving. If
you want a number ending in "RV" then you can do a wild card search of both
the registered number and the reserved number databases. I don't remember
the wild card syntax (*RV maybe?) but there's a help link on the page in
Landings. I used it to find (or rather not find) the number I reserved,
N6GY, my first choice. Keep in mind they are presented sorted so you'll
see: N1RV, N11RV, N111RV, N112RV,...,N2RV,N21RV,N211RV, etc. It's ugly but
it works. Good hunting.
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit just arrived!
On Thursday, August 06, 1998 9:19 AM, MAlexan533(at)aol.com
[SMTP:MAlexan533(at)aol.com] wrote:
>
> I am trying to find out what N numbers are still available before I send
my
> $10.00 in to the FAA. In using Landings.com as some have said, I can only
find
> database for numbers issued, not numbers available. If I just send $10 to
the
> FAA with my 10 preferred #,s, and they are all taken, what happens then?
Do
> they send it back and have you pick another 10 or just assign you a
number? If
> any of you RV guys have recently turned down a number or know of any
> available, how about e-mailing me directly and then I can put that # down
at
> the top of my list? Would like something ending in RV, but just about
anything
> that is not a tongue-twister will do. I was at Oshkosh, and plain forgot
to
> check with FAA at their booth on this issue.
> Any help appreciated.
> Von Alexander
> RV-8
> MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
>
>
s.com" |
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N-number search on Landings.com |
> I am trying to find out what N numbers are still available before I send my
> $10.00 in to the FAA.
Why not give the FAA registry people a call and ask if the ones you want
are available? I did that and found them to be very helpful.
The # is 405-954-4206
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I was happy to see the "completions" picture of my RV-6A in the recent
Kit Planes magazine, but there was a typo: They showed my empty weight
as 1,300-lbs. Actually that's a typo: The real empty weight is
1,003-lbs. I just don't want anyone to think I have the "clunkiest"
RV-6A in America!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
The comments on strobes and nav lights are nice but what does the FAA
manual say on the subject, one might find out befor going there own way. Its
your and other people in the skys safety that is at stake if one uses the
wrong thing and cant be seen as well because of the wrong lumins, low
output, of them. Using auto bulbs in the nav lights might be ok, again if
they put out enough, but if something happened and the other person said
they did not see you in time because of the lighting you would probably be
wrong.
Fly Safe and Fly Happy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N-number search on Landings.com |
The FAA Registry can be called at 405-954-3116, where you can talk to a human
being who can tell you whether any particular N number has been taken. Same
person can also tell you the fees, procedures, etc.
Bill Thomas
-6A fuselage just out of jig (yippee)
MAlexan533(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I am trying to find out what N numbers are still available before I send my
> $10.00 in to the FAA. In using Landings.com as some have said, I can only find
> database for numbers issued, not numbers available. If I just send $10 to the
> FAA with my 10 preferred #,s, and they are all taken, what happens then? Do
> they send it back and have you pick another 10 or just assign you a number? If
> any of you RV guys have recently turned down a number or know of any
> available, how about e-mailing me directly and then I can put that # down at
> the top of my list? Would like something ending in RV, but just about anything
> that is not a tongue-twister will do. I was at Oshkosh, and plain forgot to
> check with FAA at their booth on this issue.
> Any help appreciated.
> Von Alexander
> RV-8
> MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | N-number search on Landings.com |
>I am trying to find out what N numbers are still available before I
>send my $10.00 in to the FAA.
Von:
Just spend the $ and call the FAA in OK. Have your wildcards ready &
she will check them for you. Save the $10 & register it.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com> |
| Subject: | Lacing cord surplus? |
Does anybody know where I can get a hold of some surplus lacing cord for
wiring? It's black waxy string the pro's use to keep wire bundles tight
and snug in between supports.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N-number search on Landings.com |
Listers--
On this thread about N-numbers, here's another little anecdode:
Since I'm building an RV-8, I thought the ideal number would be N8RV. A
search of the Landings database showed only that it wasn't available.
At Oshkosh last year, I went to the FAA bldg and had them check on a few
numbers. They were quite helpful and explained that N8RV was already in
use, but suspended. When I inquired as to the cause of the suspension,
I was told that "something happened a few years ago with the computer
system, and a bunch of N-numbers were listed as suspended." She went on
to tell me that, unless there was some action required of the
registrant, like the plane being sold or destroyed, nothing needed to be
done about the mistake. (Does that sound like the government?!)
Anyhow, to make a very long and tedious story short, I finally appealed
to Ms. Jane Garvey about the unavailability of the number and the
squeaky wheel got greased. I received notice that the plane to which
the number had been assigned years ago had subsequently been destroyed
and parted out, so the number was now mine.
The moral of the story is: Research the number(s) you want, then call
Oklahoma City and verify its availability. Just because the Landings
database says it isn't available, that doesn't make it so. Call the
feds to be sure.
Hopefully that helps.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior Air parts XP engine |
Chris:
I too was very interested in this engine. It is my understanding that a 320
is proposed also. One thing to note is that the company is looking for
input from prospective buyers in regards to what you want in the package,
such as amount of pre-assembly for the kit version. If you want to put your
two cents worth in, drop them a line.
Sorry that I missed meeting anyone from the list at Oshkosh. Was at Van's
booth on Thursday at noon, but didn't have much time to hang around. I had
my kids with me this year, and wouldn't you know, my campsite was about as
far away from Van's as you could get. They got a bit tuckered out from all
the walking.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV 6A 25171
Wings inventoried and getting shop all set to go
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 7:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Superior Air parts XP engine
>
>
>With all the talk of the Zoche aero diesel I was wondering what people
>thought of the XP engine using Superior Air parts (I don't have the
brochure
>here so I may be a little off on the facts). Anyway sounded perfect to me.
>Basically it's an O-360 being built (but not certified, hence the XP for
>experimental) using mostly certified superior air parts. It sounded better
>than an O-360 in many aspects: better castings, more lubrication points,
>10:1 pistons. Put's out 190 horsepower. They didn't have a cost yet but
were
>expecting 16k assembled or about 2k less if you wanted to assemble some of
>it yourself (they still do much of the assembly at the plant). This engine
>has been ran already, sounded like they'd be shipping by next year. If Vans
>cam up with an OEM price maybe my dreams of a cheap new O-360 aren't to far
off?
>
>P.S. They said they're developing fuel injection for it but power drops to
>185 due to not enough air? When asked why anyone would do it then he said
>for acro. Anyway this engine sure did look good.
>
>Chris Hill
>RV-8 VS finished - moving on to the rudder
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
I actually noticed that -- I'm wondering what I might end up with -- and
since I couldn't see the anvils bulging out anywhere I figured (hoped) it
must be a typo.
>
>I was happy to see the "completions" picture of my RV-6A in the recent
>Kit Planes magazine, but there was a typo: They showed my empty weight
>as 1,300-lbs. Actually that's a typo: The real empty weight is
>1,003-lbs. I just don't want anyone to think I have the "clunkiest"
>RV-6A in America!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Grubb <sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com> |
| Subject: | 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
RV'ers:
Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which) with a
three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages over the
normal two-bladed prop?
I remember long ago asking my uncle, a retired Beechcraft engineer, what
the difference was, and I think he just said they provided no extra power,
just
reduced noise and vibration. Is this right?
Does Van's endorse such a prop? What is the difference in cost?
Thanks,
Shawn Grubb
Weatherford, Oklahoma
Ready To Order Empennage Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mick_G" <micky_g(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
Shawn:
I think Kit Planes had an article about this subject a while back. The only
real reason more than two bladed props were developed was for planes that
couldn't have a two bladed prop because of clearance considerations, to
achieve the required thrust. Three bladed props can turn slower, and be
smaller in diameter, but they use up some power to throw the extra blade
around....
Mick
-----Original Message-----
From: Shawn Grubb <sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 12:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: 3-Bladed Props On RV's
>
>RV'ers:
>
>Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which) with a
>three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages over the
>normal two-bladed prop?
>
>I remember long ago asking my uncle, a retired Beechcraft engineer, what
>the difference was, and I think he just said they provided no extra power,
>just
>reduced noise and vibration. Is this right?
>
>Does Van's endorse such a prop? What is the difference in cost?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Shawn Grubb
>Weatherford, Oklahoma
>
>Ready To Order Empennage Kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Lacing cord surplus? |
>>Does anybody know where I can get a hold of some surplus
lacing cord for
>>wiring? It's black waxy string the pro's use to keep wire
bundles tight
>>and snug in between supports.
Good luck, I looked around quite a bit and could not find a source. I
ended up buying enough to do a 747 (maybe even two of them). I might
have to build the world's first kitbuilt 747 after I finished with my 6
just to use the stuff.
8^)
Gary Fesenbek
RV6AQ, in the picturesque Ronaoke, VA
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which)
with a
three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages
over the
normal two-bladed prop?
Best to talk to Scott McDaniels about this one. I think what most folks
look to this for is to put more prop blade area out there in front of
you without decreasing the distance between the prop and terra-firma on
landing. I'm quite worried about this clearance problem myself as I
have one of those new huge Sensich props for the O-360, especially with
all those guys talking up those frightening porposing stories.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A, Roanoke, VA, canopy, oh canopy
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shawn Grubb [SMTP:sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 1998 3:17 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 3-Bladed Props On RV's
>
>
> RV'ers:
>
> Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which) with a
> three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages over the
> normal two-bladed prop?
>
> I remember long ago asking my uncle, a retired Beechcraft engineer,
> what
> the difference was, and I think he just said they provided no extra
> power,
> just
> reduced noise and vibration. Is this right?
>
> Does Van's endorse such a prop? What is the difference in cost?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Shawn Grubb
> Weatherford, Oklahoma
>
> Ready To Order Empennage Kit
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
Along that line, I asked the same question of the Hartzell folks at
Oshkosh this year. Their response was about the same. If you have less
than 200hp, there's really no advantage in the third blade.
--Don
N8RV
> >Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which) with a
> >three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages over the
> >normal two-bladed prop?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: electrical noise |
> "I have noticed the development of a ticking sound in my headsets,
> particularly at higher power settings that seems to match a
> fluctuation in my volt meter...
To all those who helped me with advice a few weeks ago about solving an
electrical noise problem in my 6A; I wanted to let you know that the
problem has been solved by re-installing a capacitor whose wire had
broken free of the alternator.
The noise is now completely gone and the fluctuations on the voltmeter
have stopped.
Thanks everyone,
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
I can understand the interest in justifying the expenditure, but am I the
only person here who is going to say why they REALLY want a three blade
prop? Cos it looks so darn good! *grin*
But seriously, how many options are there? Are there many 3-blade
manufacturers? Or are you restricted to only a few once you assume
180-200hp? And at what cost?
Chris Hinch
RV-8 80630
Dunedin, New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
Dear Shawn,
I have just finished over 4 months of searching for all the info I could
find about props to fit my RV8 that is almost finished. I talked to both
McCauley and Hartzell and am now on a first name basis with their sales
staffs. Seriously, it appears that the 3 blades offer less noise ,
slightly better climb and slightly less cruise. 10 years ago I converted
my Meyers 200 from a 260 hp to a 300 hp Continental. At that time their
were no 2 blade props approved for this combination. So I bought a 3 blade
McCauley. It works perfect and appears to reflect the above performance
parameters. Also the 3 blade is quite a bit heavier.
I finally settled on a extended hub 2 blade Hartzell for my RV8. Primarily
because nobody offers anything elso suitable. It does appear though , that
the 2 blade Hartzell that Van sell is the best combination for overall
performance as proven by people such as Steve Barnard and Dave Anders. I
did however order a 76" model instead of the 72" usually used on the RV4
and RV6. The RV8 has a larger fuselage and canopy and the Hartzell people
think that the slightly longer prop will yield a little more speed. If it
doesn't, it is easy to cut it shorter.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
80124
----------
> From: Shawn Grubb <sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 3-Bladed Props On RV's
> Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 2:16 PM
>
>
> RV'ers:
>
> Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which) with a
> three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages over the
> normal two-bladed prop?
>
> I remember long ago asking my uncle, a retired Beechcraft engineer, what
> the difference was, and I think he just said they provided no extra
power,
> just
> reduced noise and vibration. Is this right?
>
> Does Van's endorse such a prop? What is the difference in cost?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Shawn Grubb
> Weatherford, Oklahoma
>
> Ready To Order Empennage Kit
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Dunlap <chuck(at)zekes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
Shawn Grubb wrote:
>
>
> RV'ers:
>
> Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which) with a
> three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages over the
> normal two-bladed prop?
>
> I remember long ago asking my uncle, a retired Beechcraft engineer, what
> the difference was, and I think he just said they provided no extra power,
> just
> reduced noise and vibration. Is this right?
>
> Does Van's endorse such a prop? What is the difference in cost?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Shawn Grubb
> Weatherford, Oklahoma
>
> Ready To Order Empennage Kit
Shawn - I have had a three blade Performance Propeller prop on my RV-4
for the past 400 hours. I (and it) was at Oshkosh but in the general
aviation camping area.
Advantages: Lower vibration due to ease of balancing
Smaller diameter gives more ground clearance
Looks cool
Disadvantages: Higher cost ($1350)
Smaller diameter may reduce climb performance?
I am happy with the overall performance. I get 2300 RPM static and 2800
RPM at 200 MPH at 9500 FT
Chuck Dunlap
S.E. Arizona
RV-4 N914RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
This didn't seem to make it onto the list the first time so here it is
again.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Morrissey, John
> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 1998 4:40 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure
>
>
> Hi Fred,
>
> Sorry to hear about your incident, at least you got 1135 Hrs
> out of the plane. One of our builders over here in Australia
> had his depart the aircraft on his first landing. The leg was
> taken away by CASA for inspection and pre-existing stress
> cracks were found in the leg where the machining finished on
> the top of the leg. The leg was subsequently sent to Van's
> for testing by his people - you might try calling them to get
> their opinion. I believe that CASA are considering issuing
> and AD for all RV6A's requiring crack penetration testing of
> the front gear legs and replacement of faulty components. A
> brief reference to the failure is given on the following web
> page http://www.casa.gov.au/engine/SDR/Jun98/BELOW5700_JUN98.HTM
>
> I will forward more info to the list as it comes available.
>
> If I owned a RV6a I would have the leg tested as a precaution
> as the test will cost a LOT less than a bulk strip of your
> Lycoming after the ground strike.
>
> Please note that I have full confidence in the RV series and
> the way Van's handle these issues.
>
> Back to building the RV4.
>
> John Morrissey
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wstucklen1(at)Juno.com [mailto:wstucklen1(at)Juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 1998 2:14 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure
>
>
> w Stucklen)
>
> Listers,
>
> While landing on the grass today, my front gear leg
> snapped off almost
> flush with the motor mount. The aircraft was down on the mains (full
> flaps) and slowing with full back stick (I always land full stall).
> Shortly after the nose gear came down, and after I started applying
> brakes, the leg collapsed. The prop made contact with the turf three
> times prior to actually stopping, bending one blade of the
> prop (metal)
> back about 30 degrees and slightly bending the other. The lower cowl,
> especially the air intake area, was damaged by the short
> stop, as well as
> the spinner. Other than the gear leg, nothing departed the
> plane. At the
> time of prop impact, the engine was at full idle.
>
> I'll have metallurgy tests performed on the on the leg to
> determine
> what happened and keep you all informed. I have
> approximately 1135 Hrs
> on the plane, but never really expected this type of failure.
>
> Are there any qualified A/P's out there that might suggest what I
> should do about the engine (ie, hard stoppage/tear down???? or just
> dial the crank out???)....
>
> Guess I should be thankfull it happened on turf and not a hard
> runway.......
>
> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> wstucklen1(at)juno.com
> E. Windsor, Ct.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
Lots of float planes use 3 bladed props. The shorter blades keep the
prop tips away from the water, which reduces erosion that they get
from picking up spray.
Of course there's only one RV out there on floats so far....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
PS before you ask "what's this about an RV on floats?", go check the
archives :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Bill & other RV-Listers,
NONE of my landings, from day zero, have been white nuckled. From
the first fligh they have always been very good: almost never bounce, and
when I do, it's from the mains, not from the nose. (I have a lot of time
in tail wheel planes and land the RV the d\same way.....). Ask anybody
that has flown with me or seen me land and they will tell you that the
nose wheel is the last to touch down.......
In 1135 Hrs of operation I have had TWO incidences where the nose
wheel has shimmied. Maybe this had something to do with the visual clues
that were on the break. But before I speculate, I am having the leg parts
tested. I'll let you all know the results when I get them. In the
meantime lets keep the speculation in control. According to Van's, there
have only been four documented cases of gear leg failures, one of which
is currently under investigation.
As a side note, I have been told the grummand's that have experienced
a front wheel shimmy are required to have the gear leg magnifluxed
(required bby AD). Can anybody confirm this????? Any other high time
-6A's out there thinking about testing for cracks in the front gear leg.
You input could be valuable to the rest of the fleet....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
Ordering new prop, lower cowl scoop, front wheel rim/assembly, spinner &
air box.......
>
>Fred: VERY SORRY to hear about your mishap. Glad you were unhurt. I
>think
>all of us who have had divergent porpoising white-knuckle landings are
>worried
>about this happening, but I never considered the possibility of sudden
>failure
>during a later landing. I've had enough "Help me, Jesus!" landings on
>bumpy
>turf in my 20 RV-6A hours to where maybe I should pull the leg now and
>have it
>checked for fatigue cracks. A failure at any time could ruin my whole
>day, as
>you know firsthand.
>
>I am curious as to how many bouncy landings you have had in your 1100
>hrs, and
>if any were particularly memorable (violent). I regret to say I
>already have
>two or three in this category: two on turf strips and one on asphalt
>resulting
>from an aborted takeoff. There are times I'd rather have a tailwheel,
>and I
>don't have but 4 hrs in those! I guess the secret with the -6A is
>slow
>touchdown speeds (and slow approaches), good depth perception in the
>flare
>(looking at the far end of the runway), and freezing the stick/adding
>a burst
>of power at the first sign of a hard bounce. This springy gear is not
>very
>forgiving of any failure to land gently and slowly. I can't WAIT to
>see how
>it does with more weight than just me and the gas... Yikes!
>
>-Bill Boyd
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Thanks all for the engine input. So far, the engine has dialed out on
the crank at .0006" (the lyc spec is about TEN times that....).
Seems like there are a lot of opinions out there, some based on
experience, some not (just opinions....). In any case, for my own piece
of mind (I fly IFR....) the engine will be torn down and properly checked
for problems. While it isn;t a certified engine, I still need to trust
it....... But it does make it an expensive 1135 Hrs of operation......
I had New England Propeller run the checks on the prop today. It's
bent beyond servicable limits on on blad only. They bent it back close to
straight: It'll look good over a garage door...... Looks like the home
equity credit line is going to take another hit........
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
Nothing wrong with reducing noise and vibration. It looks to me as if those who
know better than I about props, as if the number of blades is half the number of
cylinders.?
I am told that Bonanza owners lay out $6000 for three blades for smoother
running and adding weight up front where it is sorely needed.
hal
> I remember long ago asking my uncle, a retired Beechcraft engineer, what
> the difference was, and I think he just said they provided no extra power,
> just reduced noise and vibration. Is this right?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Walter Lom-a-saurous |
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Walter Lom-a-saurous
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 02:53:35 EDT
Not intending this to offend anyone but I do not think the Lom-a-saur to be
any less a Dinosaur than the Lyc-o-saur (as someone referred to it). Neither
were designed yesterday and both are well proven technology, albiet ancient
technology. The Lom-a-saur seems to be a nice package on the RV-3 and it would
be nice to see a similar package worked up for the other RV' s and whatnot.
Nothing wrong with having choices, personally, I wish Rotax would quit hinting
about the 200LBs/ 200HP (four-stroke) V-6 and commit to the project---a fully
modern, electronic, fuel injected, single power lever airplane engine--not a
Fossil. Is this dreaming? Imagine a sleek, modern, silky-smooth all-aluminum
60 degree V-6 hiding under the hood of a RV-4 with room to spare for the
plumbing etc----as narrow as the Lom-a-saurous and the same output as the
IO-360'asaurous but far lighter and more compact. Please someone wake me up.
By the way, I have a M.S. plus 30 in Geology and I have yet to find references
to the Lycosaurous in my Paleo--texts but if any of you guys know where to dig
any up please let me know as I sure could use one or two. JR-A&P, digging and
scratching
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Lacing cord surplus? |
Surplus?
Cheif has new, fresh stuff. Lacing tape - page 27 -
Oh, I see what you mean! It comes in 500 yard rolls!
I used the nylon jobbies just like the pros do. I should probably use them on
my shoes too.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Lewis" <lewy(at)lanset.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
Shawn Grubb wrote:
>
>
> RV'ers:
>
> Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which) with a
> three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages over the
> normal two-bladed prop?
> Thanks,
>
> Shawn Grubb
> Weatherford, Oklahoma
>
> Ready To Order Empennage Kit
>
If nothing else and additional cost aside, it will serve to set your
RV-6 apart from the other 300 sitting in the same row. It probably is
smoother too. Cost I would say is the biggest factor in a three blade
prop.
Jim
Just an opinion mindya
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel flow sensors |
Can someone explain how the various fuel totalizers, flow meters, etc.
actually measure fuel flow? Do they simply measure pressure drop across a
known orifice, or do they use turbines?
Thanks in advance.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN 6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Stuck starter contactors . . . |
><< Beechcraft Barons and Bonanzas have had a 'starter engaged' light on the
> panel for several years, and many have been added to older craft. A wire
> from the starter relay ouput to a small lamp on the panel is all that is
> needed. >>
>
>The checklist for the C-planes at the school were I teach part-time include a
>check after starting that the starter is disengaged by turning off the
>alternator side of the master switch and seeing if there is a strong charge
>indication (from the starter being driven as a generator). Would that do the
>job for us, too?
This is a myth that has been given too much fertilizer . . . a stuck
starter solenoid does indeed keep the motor spinning . . . however,
over-running clutches in virtually all starters are absolutely necessary
to prevent the engine from distroying the starter. Recall that cranking
RPMs are about 500, during this time, the starter's armature is running
at about it's design speed. Now, if you start the engine and throttle
up to say 2500 rpm, if the starter were firmly geared to the engine,
it would now be running 5x it's design speed . . . guarantee it's
windings will come right out of the slots, gears strip, etc, etc,.
If your starter contactor does stick -AND- your airplane is fitted
on an ammeter because the starter is connected directly to the battery
and appears to the alternator as a severely discharged battery - -
so of course the ammeter lays over harder. If you turn off the alternator,
I'll guarantee you the ammeter will lay back to zero . . . or if its
a minus-zero-plus battery ammeter, it will show a discharge if system
goodies are on.
Even if the starter contactor IS stuck, you'll get the same result.
Whoever started this rumor has done his fellow flyers a terrible
disservice because the "test" has no way to confirm contactor sticking.
Indeed, the test will ALWAYS indicate a-not-stuck contactor.
If inquiring minds really want to know, a starter engaged light
on the panel is the best way.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
<< NONE of my landings, from day zero, have been white nuckled. From
the first fligh they have always been very good: almost never bounce, and
when I do, it's from the mains, not from the nose. (I have a lot of time
in tail wheel planes and land the RV the d\same way.....). Ask anybody
that has flown with me or seen me land and they will tell you that the
nose wheel is the last to touch down.......
>> Fred - none of us are in the habit of landing on the nosewheel first(!),
but in my experience, a bounce on the mains, if not deftly handled on a turf
runway, is going to deposit the plane hard enough on the runway to really get
the nosewheel in on the action a half-second later, which amplifies the next
bounce, etc. I always try to land nearly full-stall but often misjudge the
height and get contact just a moment before I expect it. On turf, the
unevenness of the surface can throw you back into the air if you catch it just
wrong. This is a nerve-racking on short strips because the brakes are highly
ineffective while the plane is hopping off the surface in ground effect ;-)
Best response in these cases is to freeze the stick and add a burst of power,
I believe.
<< In 1135 Hrs of operation I have had TWO incidences where the nose
wheel has shimmied. Maybe this had something to do with the visual clues
that were on the break. But before I speculate, I am having the leg parts
tested. I'll let you all know the results when I get them. In the
meantime lets keep the speculation in control. According to Van's, there
have only been four documented cases of gear leg failures, one of which
is currently under investigation. >>
>> ONLY FOUR?!! That's at least THREE TOO MANY, yes? If we had seen "only
four" cases of RV-6A spar failures, there'd be some action taken to
understand, explain and fix the problem. I am anxious to hear the official
factory response to this problem. (And I hope it can be more straightforward
than the confusing back-and-forth about the Cleveland brake springs...)
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 20 hrs.
Still porpoising, after all these landings........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lacing cord surplus? |
Has anyone looked in their medicine cabinet for this stuff? I buy it in 17
yard rolls, and it comes waxed, in plain and mint flavors, to name a few...
For strength, one might use three strands at once, pulled from 3 different
spools, to lace the harness.
Nah, I didn't really use dental floss to bundle my cables; I used nylon
spiral wrap, but see no reason why floss wouldn't do the job.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow sensors |
>
> actually measure fuel flow? Do they simply measure pressure drop across
a
> known orifice, or do they use turbines?
Turbines (Floscan brand, etc.).
Rob Acker (RV-6Q...back from OSH with $$$ depleted by panel goodies).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ski2001a(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-6A Nose Strut Failure |
To All RV-6A Owners:
Today I inspected the failed nose wheel strut from Fred Stucklen's RV-6A and
based on my findings I am highly recommending all 6A owners with over 300
hours of time complete a detailed inspection of the strut where it passes
through the lower motor mount support. Fred's gear had developed a crack on
the back side (actually several cracks) and this crack worked and developed
until it was 40% of the cross section of the strut and then it failed during a
normal landing in the grass at his home airport. The crack is a classic
fatigue crack starting at the rear edge of the strut and progressing
horizontally through the solid bar. The crack striations are very clear and am
sure this crack had been working for a long time. Fred's plane has a little
over 1100 hours and has not been abused or landed hard. The gear strut can be
inspected while on the plane but I recommend a complete removal and a detailed
inspection be completed (Dye check or Magniflux). Based on what I saw this is
a classic text book stress crack failure of a very hard alloy steel material.
We will check the material and the material hardness next week and keep the
RV-list posted.
Please check your struts RV-6A owners. I do not know Fred's kit number or the
date of purchase but he is on the list and provide that information.
Tom Clark RV8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Walter Lom-a-saurous |
Have you talked to any new car people who have an aul. engine after they have
gotten it HOT? warping & galling....lots of money going out!
JRWillJR(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Content-ID: <0_902451757@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
>
> Content-ID: <0_902451757@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
>
> From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
> Return-path:
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Walter Lom-a-saurous
> Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 02:53:35 EDT
>
> Not intending this to offend anyone but I do not think the Lom-a-saur to be
> any less a Dinosaur than the Lyc-o-saur (as someone referred to it). Neither
> were designed yesterday and both are well proven technology, albiet ancient
> technology. The Lom-a-saur seems to be a nice package on the RV-3 and it would
> be nice to see a similar package worked up for the other RV' s and whatnot.
> Nothing wrong with having choices, personally, I wish Rotax would quit hinting
> about the 200LBs/ 200HP (four-stroke) V-6 and commit to the project---a fully
> modern, electronic, fuel injected, single power lever airplane engine--not a
> Fossil. Is this dreaming? Imagine a sleek, modern, silky-smooth all-aluminum
> 60 degree V-6 hiding under the hood of a RV-4 with room to spare for the
> plumbing etc----as narrow as the Lom-a-saurous and the same output as the
> IO-360'asaurous but far lighter and more compact. Please someone wake me up.
> By the way, I have a M.S. plus 30 in Geology and I have yet to find references
> to the Lycosaurous in my Paleo--texts but if any of you guys know where to dig
> any up please let me know as I sure could use one or two. JR-A&P, digging and
> scratching
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
In a message dated 8/6/98 7:20:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time, SportAV8R(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I am anxious to hear the official
factory response to this problem. (And I hope it can be more straightforward
than the confusing back-and-forth about the Cleveland brake springs...) >>
DITTO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow sensors |
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> Can someone explain how the various fuel totalizers, flow meters, etc.
> actually measure fuel flow? Do they simply measure pressure drop across a
> known orifice, or do they use turbines?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove MN 6A finishing
>
Alex,
Your RV-list hosts manufactures them, why not give him a call!
(matronics.com)
Most systems use an inline turbine that generates pulses and the pulses
are counted and coverted electonically to gallons based on the
calibration
of the turbine. I believe the the Flowscan 201 is one of the more
popular
ones. It is used by DPS and Vision Microsystems.
Ed Cole RV6A Fuse Skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lacing cord surplus? |
BB:
Hey, if you use dental floss as you suggested, you will always be able to
tell your dentist that you took your floss with you to the last fly-in!!
Being a dentist myself, I know that *I* would accept that! ;^)
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wing spars
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message---
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lacing cord surplus?
>
>
>Has anyone looked in their medicine cabinet for this stuff? I buy it in
17
>yard rolls, and it comes waxed, in plain and mint flavors, to name a few...
>For strength, one might use three strands at once, pulled from 3 different
>spools, to lace the harness.
>
>Nah, I didn't really use dental floss to bundle my cables; I used nylon
>spiral wrap, but see no reason why floss wouldn't do the job.
>
>-BB
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
I have a lighted panel mount compass that I will sell for $30. I also have a
IIMorrow 618TCA Loran for sale for the best offer. You will need the mounting
box and an antenna because I am keeping the box to mount my replacement GX55
GPS from IIMorrow and the antenna was broken when my plane was destroyed by
the storm in June.
Jim Cone
Repeat Offender RV6-QB on the way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | revmo(at)sprynet.com |
| Subject: | anyone need a helper? |
Hi! I work for a company that sells tools to kit builders. I just got
back from Oshkosh & am once again reminded of how little I know. It
there is a builder in the SE Michigan area (Plymouth, Ann Arbor,
Brighton, etc) who needs someone to hold bucking bars, or fetch &
carry... I just want to learn more about how to build this stuff, & what
actually has to be done. Please respond off-list to revmo(at)sprynet.com.
D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
> As a side note, I have been told the grummand's that have
>experienced a front wheel shimmy are required to have the gear leg
>magnifluxed (required bby AD). Can anybody confirm this?????
Thanks for your information concerning the gear legs. Now, you
have me concerned. Do you have the stiffeners on your legs? I'm
wondering if the stiffeners may concentrate the gear forces to one
area too much. It would be sort of like the wings where the stiffeners
are stepped down to prevent concentrated stress. A little bit of
shimmy should never hurt them.
As for the Grummans, I have a AA-5A Cheetah and have never
heard of this AD. We do have a service bulletin that recommends
taking the gear leg out every once in a while to clean and inspect it.
That's about it. I've done mine once in eight years. From time to
time, the front wheel has shimmied; but, it's rare. I just tighten the
gear and am ready to go again.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Working in the engine area, now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers,
As a follow up to Tom Clark's note, and other questions asked, I am
sending the gear leg parts to Van's for further analysis. As I reported
earlier, Van's knows of only four other cases where legs snapped. But,
according to Tom Green, mine is the most unusual case he has hear of, so
they want to inspect it in detail.
I'm not a mechanical engineer, and know diddley about metals. But in
listening to qualified engineers whom have personally inspected this part
(ie, Tom Clark & others), the part may have failed because of a crack
that propagated to a structural limit before it snapped. (It wasn't a
hard landing!). WHY the crack developed (ie material hardness, bad
casting etc, etc, etc...) is yet to be determined. I'll keep you all
posted on the metallurgy test results when I get them.
In the mean time, Tom's advice on inspecting your gear legs can't
hurt, and in fact, can offer some supportive test data that there is or
isn't a problem with gear legs. Any other input is speculative at best.
As for the question on stiffeners, yes, all three gear legs have
them.... From my observation, installation of the stiffeners does
nothing to limit the structual design of the gear leg....
On the subject of the Grumman AD, it may or may not be real. (That is
why I asked the question...) Is there anybody else out there with a
Grummand that knows about a gear leg AD?????
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
<< If inquiring minds really want to know, a starter engaged light
on the panel is the best way.
Bob . . >>
Having installed such a setup (high-output red LED with series dropping
resistor connected to relay output and mounted in center of the pilot's side
of the panel), I was at firsty very curious about the persistent LED glow
after the starter was disengaged. The LED takes about 5 seconds to gradually
extinguish... I wondered what sort of capacitance might exist inside the
lightweight (Sky-tec) starter. Now I'm convinced I must be seeing the back-
EMF from the starter as it winds down. Does that sound reasonable to you,
Bob? Or have I got a goblin...?
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
Has anyone installed one of these in an RV? Nothing in the archives. I
have seen a few around in Trade -a- Plane for reasonable prices, and was
wondering ... I don't think this motor is made anymore so parts, etc.,
might be a problem.
Chris Browne
-6A rudder
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
In a message dated 8/6/98 4:40:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com writes:
<< Last week at Oshkosh, I saw an RV-6/6A (don't remember which) with a
three-bladed prop. What are the advantages or disadvantages over the
normal two-bladed prop?>>
This might have been my plane (a very, very yellow RV-6). The prop was made
by Performance Propellers in AZ.
<>
This is correct. The prop is very smooth and quiet. Cruises with other two
bladed props. I think I give up a little (100-200 fpm) climb performance.
<>
Van's does not endorse any props, use what you want. However, Van's is a
dealer for Sensenich metal props which might be the best fixed pitch prop for
the aircraft.
<>
I paid about $1,400. This was before there were any Sensenich props approved
for RV's.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net> |
Parts won't be a problem. it is a hybrid engine. parts made from
different enngines. I used to know what they were but some parts from
0320 and some parts from 0360 as I recall. I think it was rated as 170
hp . seems like the Navion twin conversion may have used them as well as
several other aircraft. It will make a good engine with no more problems
or AD's than the regular 0320 or 0360's.
cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone installed one of these in an RV? Nothing in the archives.
> I
> have seen a few around in Trade -a- Plane for reasonable prices, and
> was
> wondering ... I don't think this motor is made anymore so parts,
> etc.,
> might be a problem.
>
> Chris Browne
> -6A rudder
> Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
FWIW, I E-mailed Superior about this engine, and was informed that, while
Superior is making the parts, the kit is (will be?) marketed by XP
industries, a separate company. Any inquires regarding the kit should be
directed their way. No E-mail address was provided, however.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
I looked this motor up at
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html, and was
apparently made in A1A, A1B, A2A, B1A, B2A variants. (That is - only 5
were made and they are all different :^} ) Anyway, there are 170 and 160HP
versions but there don't seem to be many engines out there.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
RV-List message posted by: "Flying Phil's Circus"
Parts won't be a problem. it is a hybrid engine. parts made from
different enngines. I used to know what they were but some parts from
0320 and some parts from 0360 as I recall. I think it was rated as 170
hp . seems like the Navion twin conversion may have used them as well as
several other aircraft. It will make a good engine with no more problems
or AD's than the regular 0320 or 0360's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Bradach <Mark.Bradach(at)digital.com> |
John,
I was wonder how you equipped your RV-6A and got to 1003. I am close to
order a kit and I am concerned how close I can get to claimed empty
weight.
When I saw Kit Planes I was hoping it was a typo. I figured you where at
1030 so 1003 is really good.
thanks
mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John W. Fasching [SMTP:fasching(at)amigo.net]
> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 1998 11:28 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Kit Planes
>
>
> I was happy to see the "completions" picture of my RV-6A in the recent
> Kit Planes magazine, but there was a typo: They showed my empty weight
> as 1,300-lbs. Actually that's a typo: The real empty weight is
> 1,003-lbs. I just don't want anyone to think I have the "clunkiest"
> RV-6A in America!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-340A1A, and some other options |
<< Has anyone installed one of these in an RV? Nothing in the archives. I
have seen a few around in Trade -a- Plane for reasonable prices, and was
wondering ... I don't think this motor is made anymore so parts, etc.,
might be a problem.
Chris Browne
-6A rudder
Atlanta >>
Chris:
I recall this motor as being a Continental (4 cyl version of the 520), as
installed in the Beech Musketeer. I could be fubar on this, tho. I also think
this series uses a bed mount type motor mount. The parts availability could be
a large factor.
Unless you are ready to do a bunch of extra work ( one change begets three
others, and each of these three begets three more, and so on), I recommend
staying behind others who have already done what you plan to do. Now, that
experimental tag is on your ship for a good reason- you can make any mod that
you can dream up! There is nothing wrong with evolution of the species. Change
is not necessarily a bad thing. Less than optimal evolutionary directions are
usually stopped, and good directions continue, given enough $$$.
The Powersport rotary was displayed at OSH. This one sure looked promising a
few months back, and with new owners, it may become available fairly soon. I
would guess these folks will offer a firewall fwd kit.
The numbers I get from a local -6 owner flying behing the Chevy V-6 sure look
promising. Same apparent fuel burn at the same apparent airspeed (8 GPH @
165-170 MPH. Your mileage may vary.). Hmmmmmm... I'd like to see this one and
a 150 HP Lyc equipped ship stop for fuel at the end of a 500 mi loose
formation XCY flight. *That's* the number everyone wants, right? We'll get it
some day soon, I think.
And the real question: What motor do you want up front when you're over rough
terrain with your 6 yr old daughter in the right/rear seat? Her precious life
depends on your decisions. How much money you have saved is not really the
issue at that point in time.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
| Subject: | Dimple / Plans question |
This may be stupid question, but I am new to aluminum construction.
During the first step of building my RV8 Horiz Stab., the plans say to
dimple the rear spar flanges. It doesn't tell me what size dimple to use
though. I have the Orndoff (spelling?) video and he says to use the 3/32
dimple dies. How could I have known this otherwise? Are all #40 drill
holes dimpled with 3/32 dies?
Thanks
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimple / Plans question |
Joe Drumm wrote:
>
>
> This may be stupid question, but I am new to aluminum construction.
> During the first step of building my RV8 Horiz Stab., the plans say to
> dimple the rear spar flanges. It doesn't tell me what size dimple to use
> though. I have the Orndoff (spelling?) video and he says to use the 3/32
> dimple dies. How could I have known this otherwise? Are all #40 drill
> holes dimpled with 3/32 dies?
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe
>
Joe,
If you have a decimal drill chart, you'll find that #40 is awful close
to 3/32"
#30 is about 1/8"
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
According to FAA data, there are 127 of these Lycoming engines being used in
96 aircraft.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N-number search on Landings.com |
Once you have determined if your desired tail number is available per the
landings.com database, then contact the FAA Aircraft Registry office at
(405)954-3116 to verify your findings. They were very friendly and helpful.
Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
ICQ# 11770815
URGENT MESSAGES: pagekidder(at)bigfoot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Does anyone out there have any -3 parts they dont need, I have two under
const. one of which needs rebuilding due to poor workmanship, bought it
sight unseen. Most needed is fus. sheet metal parts.
it to finish the curve
on this skin when I get the canopy.
Is the canopy cut to match the skin? Also, Can I rivet the skin?
Thanks in advance,
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Skinning the top of the fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheetah(at)saber.net |
| Subject: | Re: Dimple / Plans question |
Joe Drumm wrote:
Are all #40 drill
> holes dimpled with 3/32 dies?
Welcome Aboard Joe! The answer is yes. #40 or #41 use the 3/32
dimples. #30 or #31 use the 1/8th dies. Good luck on your project.
Rob Miller
Fuse 80153
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Rees <Randyr(at)icat.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
Insurance doesn't cover this, or did you have liability only? I owned a
C-150 and a student left the step stool in front of the AC and when he went
to start the engine the stool was sucked in and the insurance bought me a
Factory Zero timed engine for only the cost of my deductible.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wstucklen1(at)Juno.com [SMTP:wstucklen1(at)Juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 1998 5:37 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure
>
>
>
> Thanks all for the engine input. So far, the engine has dialed out on
> the crank at .0006" (the lyc spec is about TEN times that....).
>
> Seems like there are a lot of opinions out there, some based on
> experience, some not (just opinions....). In any case, for my own piece
> of mind (I fly IFR....) the engine will be torn down and properly checked
> for problems. While it isn;t a certified engine, I still need to trust
> it....... But it does make it an expensive 1135 Hrs of operation......
>
> I had New England Propeller run the checks on the prop today. It's
> bent beyond servicable limits on on blad only. They bent it back close to
> straight: It'll look good over a garage door...... Looks like the home
> equity credit line is going to take another hit........
>
> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> wstucklen1(at)juno.com
> E. Windsor, Ct.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strong, Colin" <colin.strong(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Dimple / Plans question |
One sage piece of advice that I received from several builders is to use #41
drill bits on all holes that will dimpled. This is because the hole
stretches a
little bit when you dimple it and by using a #41 bit instead of a #40 the
rivets
fit much better.
Colin Strong
RV 6
Jigging those wings.
Are all #40 drill holes dimpled with 3/32 dies?
Thanks
Joe
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chalkboy" <chalkboy(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: New member Re: Zoche Diesel |
This engine has been at OSH at least 13 years.
Ask Herr Zoche why he was
investigated by the German IRS.
Engine looks great, seems to have all the answers.
Don't hold your breath.
Who has heard one run??
CHALKIE. (So Africa)
RV-6 Skinning wings, flt control surfaces done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Yeller Pages Update |
Gary's latest version of the Yeller Pages is now available at:
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
Be sure and tell Gary thanks.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Dimple / Plans question |
How could I have known this otherwise? Are all #40 drill holes dimpled
with 3/32 dies?
>Thanks
>Joe
Joe:
I got a book "Aicraft Sheet Metal " from Bob Avery that answers a lot of
questions you will have.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Cutting Forward Top Skin |
IMHO it's best to put this off until you get to the canopy portion of
the installation. You still have to put in the control linkages I
assume as well as the trim cable and while you can certainly do this
with the skin riveted on, it make access a bit more difficult.
It there anything that will absolutely positively prohibit you from
putting this skin on? Not that I have found, just make sure you don't
forget to put in the harness anchors.
I had a severe desire to get that skin on when I put the aft skin on
too. It make it look much more finished with it. It only took me 2
hours to rivet that skin on the in the end. The compromise I made with
myself was that I clecoed the skin on. It made me feel better but also
opened the skin up to more wear and tear.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6AQ, Ronaoke, VA canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dimple / Plans question - humor |
<< Are all #40 drill holes dimpled with 3/32 dies?
Thanks
Joe >>
Naw- the ones you will drill in your fingers are easier machine countersunk.
;-)
Yup- I'm weak- I couldn't resist!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
just a thought..if your near seattle habe you tried Boeing surplus...I got a LOT
of sheet metal 020----050 ect there by the pound! nice stuff too!....j. dawson
Boyd Butler wrote:
>
> Does anyone out there have any -3 parts they dont need, I have two under
> const. one of which needs rebuilding due to poor workmanship, bought it
> sight unseen. Most needed is fus. sheet metal parts.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimple / Plans question |
The numbers on the dimple dies correspond to numbered drill sizes.
A #40 drill is very close to 3/32". A #30 drill is very close to 1/8".
Regardless, if you try to fit a 1/8" die in a #40 or 3/32" hole,
you'll see right away that it's not the right one. Also if you
compare the dimple dies with the rivets, it becomes obvious which one
is correct.
And if all else fails, try it on some scrap, and you'll see what works
and what doesn't.
Randall Henderson
Engineering Design Team, Inc.
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chalkboy" <chalkboy(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Attn:- Tony Castellano, NY |
Tony, contact Chalkie (So Africa)
Chalkie. RV-6 Skinning wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Burger" <hbarca(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | prop used in the Rv-3 Maroon Marauder |
Mr. Ayers:
Do you use a constant speed prop in your plane, or do you use a fixed
pitch prop. I am trying to get as much information while I am saving
money for my tooling and my kit . I am looking to get an RV-6 because my
wife would kill me if I always put her in the back seat.
Thanks,
Scott Burger
Saving money for my tools and empennage kit.
email: hbarca(at)hotmail.com
Nunca tenga miedo de lograr...
Never be afraid to achieve...
N'avez jamais peur d'achever...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rod Smith <rsmith(at)alaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N-Number Search,Landings.com |
Dont assume that a number you have found as not in service and not reserved
on the landings.com database is necessarily available. I was looking for
the shortest available N-number and sent a request list of 5 to the FAA. I
got my 4th pick. I had searched the landings.com database right after its
most recent update at the time. I dont know if there is that much N-number
activity in a short time frame or if the database is just not that
accurate. I did not think to check with the FAA before sending my list.
Those of you looking for a real short N-number, when I searched I came up
with only 2 single digit,single letter numbers and these ended up not being
available. I came up with a few double digit single letter numbers and
these were also not available. There apparently are a few single digit
double letter numbers still available.
Tried for N3Y got N8VX reserved.
Rod Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Perri <jperri(at)aros.net> |
I have a IO-360 in a RV-6 ..can you remove the prop governor without
pulling the engine. Look like with the indent in the rear and removing
the right mag you should be able to get at it. The other times I have
removed or installed have been with the engine totally off the mount.
Thanks
JMP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry S. (Hank) Eilts" <eilts(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N-number search on Landings.com |
To all,
Here is some info that might help in reserving N-numbers:
a. The FAA Aircraft Registration Branch maintains a web
page at
http://www.mmac.jccbi.gov/afs/afs700/afs750.html
b. Their phone number is (405) 954-3116. You can call
them
and ask about candidate N numbers
c. Their registration and reserved databases are available
for
download from the web site. This enables the use of
better
search engines than available at landings.com, by
using
your own database software. Landings is reasonable
if you
don't have the database software.
Now, here is a little saga (true) for informational purposes
only:
I downloaded both the registration and reserved database,
and from
those found a ton of good N number candidates. I probably
had 30
good numbers that I was interested in, and that weren't in
either database.
(i.e. not registered and not reserved). I then called the
FAA at the
number above. They are very helpful there, and patiently
looked up
every candidate number I had. Guess what -- they were all
taken.
How can this be, I asked? Well, as the specialist explained
to me,
the FAA has a third category in addition to registered and
reserved.
That category is "revoked". It doesn't mean unregistered,
it just means
that the registration is uncertain and that they have pulled
the number
from the registration database. Every 3 years they send
registrants
a tri-annual registration survey asking about the status of
their
registered aircraft. If one fails to respond for a length
of time, the
registration is put in the revoked category. Revoked
category N numbers
are not in either database.
So, I went back to the databases and got an expanded list of
about 100
"available" numbers, then called the FAA again. Out of the
100 or so
candidates, 2 were open, and I quickly sent in my
reservation request for
one of them, with the 2nd one as a fall back number. I got
my first choice.
Two things are evident in this story.
1. The databases are helpful, but not reliable indicators
of available numbers.
My percentage of "hits" was something less than 2%.
2. The specialists at the FAA are very nice and very
helpful. The one who
helped me with my 100 number investigation was on the phone
with me
for 30 minutes, and sometimes she had to put me on hold, but
always came
back promptly with "I'm back, what's the next number?" .
That is enough for now.
I hope this helps you.
Sincerely,
Hank Eilts
fameilts(at)aol.com
================Original E-mail Attached
Below===============
I am trying to find out what N numbers are still available
before I send my
$10.00 in to the FAA. In using Landings.com as some have
said, I can only find
database for numbers issued, not numbers available. If I
just send $10 to the
FAA with my 10 preferred #,s, and they are all taken, what
happens then? Do
they send it back and have you pick another 10 or just
assign you a number? If
any of you RV guys have recently turned down a number or
know of any
available, how about e-mailing me directly and then I can
put that # down at
the top of my list? Would like something ending in RV, but
just about anything
that is not a tongue-twister will do. I was at Oshkosh, and
plain forgot to
check with FAA at their booth on this issue.
Any help appreciated.
Von Alexander
RV-8
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
=====================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: prop used in the Rv-3 Maroon Marauder |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>Mr. Ayers:
>Do you use a constant speed prop in your plane, or do you use a fixed
>pitch prop. I am trying to get as much information while I am saving
>money for my tooling and my kit . I am looking to get an RV-6 because my
>wife would kill me if I always put her in the back seat.
Scott,
My asking around regarding how to best set up business end of my -6
resulted in the following advice:
If you are going to fly much cross country (with baggage) and you have
the bucks, go with constant speed. The 6 will run out of (get close to)
rear CG towards the end of a trip with min fuel and max bags if you are
turning a wood prop. A fix-pitched metal is better, constant speed will
take care of the problem completely (with the attendant initial cost and
overhauls).
Otherwise, if the A/C is for fun scooting around sans baggage, fixed
pitch wood is good to go.
I expect to do a lot of X-country to the coast(s) and touring so am
considering biting the bullet _or_ building in a forward baggage area
a'la the -8. Anyone done this with a 6?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp, wings on the waayyy!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: OSH (DON'T make me say AirVenture) |
Just got back from OSH Wednesday afternoon. Had to do some serious weather
running (never dangerous, just a pain: major deviations). When you looked at
the weather map, the ENTIRE United States was clear except for a
quarter-sized red area (IFR) over OSH and Wisconsin. Had a 45 minute window
of escape or stay for 5 more days. I mean I had a good time but 5 days in
the rain in a tent with not much else to do........
But what a blast. The weather otherwise was perfect. Highs in the upper 70's
and just the right amount of breeze to keep things cool. It had not rained
there in weeks and the grounds were really dusty, making it a challenge to
keep your airplane clean for judging. Or just clean.
There were LOTS of RV's. More than any one other type, to my informal count.
There were two RV incidents that I heard of. One was an intersection
incounter with the prop of a Cessna 170 and the right wing of an RV-6.
Gouged the wing and aileron. Metal was found 70 feet away. No one got hurt.
It was a matter of one pilot not seeing the airplane in front of him or
misunderstanding the flaggers directions. The other incident was...are you
ready for this...the canopy of an RV-4 that blew off, ripping all the pop
rivets (like it is supposed to do) and landing on the ground. OOOOooooo. AND
DIDN'T BREAK!!!!! A few pop rivets at maintainance and off they went. The
pilot was holding the canopy up with his hand and it got away from him.
Ouch. Glad I have a partial open setting and a good hold-open device.
It was otherwise a good convention. The jet was the only accident I heard
about. I stayed pretty busy parking airplanes and turning the B-17 around
but got to talk to quite a few RV-interested folks. Got a pretty good grass
shadow around Suzie Q. It was, as usual, a blast to show her off. Even
talked to a family from Argentina asking questions. I got one of the RV
Listers stickers but didn't see another one and didn't have anyone recognize
what it was. It as a good idea and a thoughtful donation. I also was unable
to attend the banquet.
There were some very nice RV's there along with some old favorites. It was
interesting to have a section just for RV's. Next to the warbirds. Seems
appropriate somehow. The warbirds are asking for more room as they had a
record year and need more room. As does everybody.
I'm surprised to not hear more reports from people who were there.
I don't like the new name. It will always be Oshkosh to me.
I had a REALLY interesting flight home (not to mention the flight there) and
will stamp out a narriative as soon as time allows. It was great to have
such a good performing airplane to take the trip with. Just you wait....
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Good to be home; looking forward to next year
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash strobes |
Reposted from the Kitfox List by GV:
<< The FAA reps say they do not like the low power strobes but must approve
them. When I pointed out the cost of the better strobes at $200 more
they just shook their heads and wondered why anyone would consider the
low priced units considering the safety issue.
Paul Messinger>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ethereal(at)worldnet.att.net (uncle wiggly) |
| Subject: | RV's in St. Paul, MN?? |
I am in the serious wanna-be-builder stage, but I have some concerns
about interior dimensions and comfort. I have Vans info package and
video (the video really got me drooling!) but it's hard to test
comfort level based on a drawing (though I did make a cardboard box in
the shape and size of an RV4 and tried sitting in it (heh))
The interior dimensions of the RV8 look plenty roomy, but I would like
to see how comfortable I would be in a 6 or even a 4. (I am tall,
mostly long legs)
I know, I know, i shoulda gone to Oshkosh, but hey, I missed it,
soo...
Is there anyone on the list in my area who wouln't mind taking me up
for a quick ride, or even a builder with a mostly completed
fusalage/interior? I'd be happy to spring for gas if needed.
I am currently a student pilot flying out of St. Paul Holman field..
Email: timf(at)ushandball.org
or call (651) 224-4416
Thanks!.....Tim Friendshuh
To reply via email, remove the bananna!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
I think quite a few of these engines wound up in Cessna 170 conversions. I
can't remember the company (Avcon maybe?) doing these conversions but I have
seen a couple of the planes with 0-340's in them.
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-340A1A
>
>According to FAA data, there are 127 of these Lycoming engines being used
in
>96 aircraft.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: empty weight |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
I logged some weights of RV6s and RV6As at Oshkosh and found a couple at
990 empty weight and one claimed 1150 empty weight. The average empty
weight was 1081lbs. Gross weight claimed was from 1600 to 1850. The
average gross weight claimed was 1723 lbs. I tossed out the figures for
the four place RV.
This what you were after?
Cecil
>I was wonder how you equipped your RV-6A and got to 1003. I am close
>to
>order a kit and I am concerned how close I can get to claimed empty
>weight.
>
>When I saw Kit Planes I was hoping it was a typo. I figured you where
>at
>1030 so 1003 is really good.
>
>thanks
>mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobTrumpRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Front Gear Leg Failure |
In a message dated 8/7/98 5:21:02 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
wstucklen1(at)Juno.com writes:
<< On the subject of the Grumman AD, it may or may not be real. (That is
why I asked the question...) Is there anybody else out there with a
Grummand that knows about a gear leg AD????? >>
I have owned a 1978 2 place Grumman since 1994 and there is no such AD for my
airplane.
Bob Trumpfheller
BobTrumpRV(at)aol.com
http://members.aol.com/mesawood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SAVOYINTL(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing elevator |
I am assuming that the elevator should be balanced with all the controls
installed and hooked up. Am I right, or should it be balanced while
disconnected? Thanks in advance for any help.
Lloyd Morris
RV-6 Starting finish kit
Lago Vista, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New RV-8 Rudder Pedals |
Listers; I picked up my new lightweight rudder pedal unit today at Vans. I
highly recommend them for those of you who are not planning on letting anybody
else fly your plane. They are much simpler, easier to install, and most of
all, much, much lighter than the standard adjustable rudder pedals. I did not
weigh them but would estimate roughly half the weight of the adjustables.
Those of you who have your adjustables already, can trade them in and get a
credit of around $100.00, I believe. Of course, if you ever sell the plane,
the pedals are still adjustable, you would just have to unbolt them and move
them to a different hole. Just an all around good deal!
Von Alexander
RV-8 rudder pedals
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Certified Standards |
<< << The FAA reps say they do not like the low power strobes but must approve
them. When I pointed out the cost of the better strobes at $200 more
they just shook their heads and wondered why anyone would consider the
low priced units considering the safety issue.
Paul Messinger>>
>>
<< PASSENGER WARNING
THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR-BUILT AND DOES
NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY
REGULATIONS FOR "STANDARD AIRCRAFT"
IT EXCEEDS THEM >>
What about the concept that we are trying to build aircraft that exceed
certified standards. We like to boast that we use cutting edge technology
that the FAA only dreams about approving? Seems ironic that some RV builders
want to use old strobe technology.
If the price is really the only issue, don't put any strobes on the plane at
all.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing elevator |
Lloyd,
The elevator should be balanced while disconnected.
The purpose of balancing is to prevent elevator flutter. If the
elevator is out of balance far enough, and you are going fast enough,
flutter may occur. If flutter occurs the control linkage may flex,
so there is no point in balancing with the linkage connected. Also,
you want to make sure that flutter will not occur if the control
linkage ever fails.
While a control linkage failure would be fairly serious, at least you
could get the plane back on the ground using pitch trim. On the
other hand, if flutter occurs the HS will probably come off, and its
all over then.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (starting wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
>I am assuming that the elevator should be balanced with all the controls
>installed and hooked up. Am I right, or should it be balanced while
>disconnected? Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>Lloyd Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
Delivered-To: fixup-rv-list(at)matronics.com@fixme
| From: | Ron Caldwell <rlcaldwell(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | RV6/6A Airspeeds |
I'm 9 hours into my flight testing of my new RV6A. I have an 0-320 160
hp with fixed pitch prop. I would be very interested in knowing what
airspeeds others are using with their airplanes. I realize there are
lots of factors (weights, elevations, winds, density altitudes, etc.)
that can determine the right airspeed to use. I fly out of fairly high
elevation airports (4,000 to 5,000 ft). Anyway, I would be interested
to see what others have come up with or published in their POH's.
If possible, provide your airspeeds for the following:
Takeoff Speed
Best Angle Of Climb Speed
Best Rate of Climb Speed
Cruise Climb Speed
Maneuvering Speed
Glide Speed
Approach Speed
Stall Speed with Flaps
Stall Speed without Flaps.
Thanks very much for your help and information.
Ron Caldwell
rlcaldwell(at)uswest.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Has anyone installed one of these in an RV? Nothing in the archives.
I have never heard of one being installed in an RV, but I don't think
there would be any problem doing so.
>I
>have seen a few around in Trade -a- Plane for reasonable prices, and
>was
>wondering ... I don't think this motor is made anymore so parts,
>etc.,
>might be a problem.
>
I don't remember the specifics but the engine was a hybrid made from
O-320 and O-360 parts.
Something along the lines of an O-320 case and crank (shorter journal
throws) mated to O-360 connecting rods and cylinders which gives you a
displacement and HP that is somewhere between the O-320 and O-360.
I don't think parts would be any problem. Maybe someone else can provide
more specific info on any other physical differences?
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop used in the Rv-3 Maroon Marauder |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
> My asking around regarding how to best set up business end of my -6
>resulted in the following advice:
>If you are going to fly much cross country (with baggage) and you have
>the bucks, go with constant speed. The 6 will run out of (get close
>to)
>rear CG towards the end of a trip with min fuel and max bags if you
>are
>turning a wood prop. A fix-pitched metal is better, constant speed
>will
>take care of the problem completely (with the attendant initial cost
>and
>overhauls).
Fixed pitch metal may now be as much of a CG help as the constant speed
prop.
We recently received one of the new O-360 Sensenich props at Van's and
when we weighed it with the prop extension found that it was only about
5 pounds less than what a constant speed prop weighs.
It wont have quite the same take-off and climb performance as the
constant speed but it should do quite well, and the cruise should be
about the same.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
Lister's,
I have several serviceable parts for a RV-4 Emp. I have a completed HS & the
skins for the VS & rudder. As I am building a 8A, these parts are collecting
dust. I will let go for a reasonable $'s. The parts are 1993 vintage. I am
in the Dallas area. Please email direct if of interest.
Mark Steffensen
Email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
Phone: (972) 359-0423
RV-8A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3-Bladed Props On RV's |
<< But seriously, how many options are there? Are there many 3-blade
manufacturers? Or are you restricted to only a few once you assume
180-200hp? And at what cost?
Chris Hinch
RV-8 80630
Dunedin, New Zealand >>
Hi All,
The Ivoprop Magnum prop can be switched between a two blade prop and a three
blade prop just by deciding which you want to bolt on.
I've flown two blade and three blade configurations in about from a 62"
diameter to a 76" diameter.
Oh yah, I forgot. Ivoprops don't work. :-)
Jim Ayers
Maroon Marauder
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Least Drag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Certified Standards |
There was an article in kitplanes a few months back about how to build
your own strobes with stuff you can buy at radio shack. It was the issue
with the Lancair on the cover, I can get the date if anyone is
interested. The article raved about how easy they were to see.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
> What about the concept that we are trying to build aircraft that exceed
> certified standards. We like to boast that we use cutting edge technology
> that the FAA only dreams about approving? Seems ironic that some RV builders
> want to use old strobe technology.
> If the price is really the only issue, don't put any strobes on the plane at
> all.
>
> Bob Busick
> RV-6
> Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Certified Standards |
I'll always put the best equipment I can afford, on my airplane.
I would love to have a ballistic chute on my plane, because I
feel that would be the safest way to go, but, this week (nor next
week), I won't be able to afford one. I sure hope no one on the
list will stoop so low as to suggest if someone can't afford the
best strobes on the market, then maybe they shouldn't be flying a
real airplane. I feel that is the attitude some of you have.
Not me. I'm just glad to be able to fly at all, and I'm as safe
as I can be with the money I have to spend. And I do have to
pass up a new car every year, so I can keep flying. It's well
worth it. Sorry to weep here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: XP360 Engine |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers,
i too saw this engine at Oshkosh,and it looked like a dream come true.
Superior's version of the 180 Hp O360 in kit form is expected to list at
under $1700. Assembled it was to be priced at under $1900. The engine was
suppose to be available in a 190Hp carb'ed version, as well (for these
prices) as well as an injected version for an additional $2000. All in
All this seems to be a reasonable cost to me. It will be available from
XP Industries. Contact Ray Scott at XP Industries at (817)-540-6500 for
more details.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Compass and Loran sold |
Listers,
I have sold both the compass and the LORAN that I put on the list in just one
day! Thanks to Matt for such a great service.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH (DON'T make me say AirVenture) |
>I'm surprised to not hear more reports from people who were there.
>I don't like the new name. It will always be Oshkosh to me.
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Michael,
I agree with you about the name. Don't have much to report, but here goes.
I took Gillette Charlie, from Gillette, WY, with me in my six, N369X. We
left Tues and came home Sat am. 5 1/2 hrs to OSH with 20-30 mph tailwinds.
Groundspeeds up to 225 mph with my 150 hp RV-6. Charlie had never been to
OSH and was really impressed. I had him convinced that the weather would be
unbearably humid and hot. The weather was great, the best in 15 years.
Now, he'll expect this kind of weather every year.
I was happy to meet several listers. The sticker idea was a good one but
it seems a lot of listers didn't get one. I tried to stay around my RV as
much as possible (White tip up six with a yellow wedge and rudder with the
for sale sign.) I remember how frustrating it was, when I was building, to
hang around for the owner of an aircraft I was interested in to show up so I
could ask a few questions. One of these years, I'd like to see something
organized where owners and builders could meet on the flight line so
builders could ask questions. Maybe after the air shows.
I liked where the RVs were parked. Well away from the "swinging lawn
chair brigade." Hopefully, there were fewer damaged RVs due to the fact that
there weren't as many tourists walking by the planes. Every ding I had in
my six was done at a fly in. People can sure be inconsiderate, sometimes.
I have mixed emotions about OSH 98. Great weather, hanger flying, etc.
but I sold my 3 year old RV6 with 430 hrs. I'll have to get to work & help
Charlie finish his 6A so I'll have something to fly. I was very interested
to hear that Van's will be putting the RV3 back on the market in the future.
Hopefully, the price won't increase too much and maybe I can build a 3 for
$20,000-25,000. I'd sure be interested in a kit if they're not pre-punched.
I think I'd put a raised turtle deck on it, simple vfr, 160 hp and fixed
pitch prop. Just a simple, cheap, basic airplane.
Places to stay----Thanks, Bob Nuckolls for the tip on Livingoods. We
stayed with Karin and Tom Livingood. It was a hoot. Really nice people.
I'd go to OSH next year just to stay with them. Nothing fancy but great
hospitality. She picked us up at the airport, fixed breakfast every morning
and filled us with snacks when we got home in the evening. Their place was
airconditioned, too. It cost Charlie and me a total of $35.00 per night.
Because Bob mentioned them on the list, we were fortunate to meet several RV
types who also stayed with the Livingoods. Maybe next year, we can fill the
house with RVers.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY RV N369X going to it's new owner on
Sunday---goodby plane, hello Miata.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH (DON'T make me say AirVenture) |
hi mikel, im a new subscriber to the rv list and am planning to build a rv8
got the preplans already/ got to see the rv8 from canada real good looking
airplane. didnt get to see too much of the rv area because i work the warbird
crash rescue truckl while at show. didnt get to stay as long as planned due
to medical emergency at home.
sincerely yours wlbgn(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
Lister's,
I have several serviceable parts for a RV-4 Emp. I have a completed HS & the
skins for the VS & rudder. As I am building a 8A, these parts are collecting
dust. I will let go for a reasonable $'s. The parts are 1993 vintage. I am
in the Dallas area. Please email direct if of interest.
Mark Steffensen
Email: Steffco1(at)msn.com
Phone: (972) 359-0423
RV-8A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: XP360 Engine |
<< Superior's version of the 180 Hp O360 in kit form is expected to list at
under $1700. Assembled it was to be priced at under $1900. The engine was
suppose to be available in a 190Hp carb'ed version, as well (for these
prices) as well as an injected version for an additional $2000. All in
All this seems to be a reasonable cost to me. >>
No sh*t? For less than a good Rotax I can have a kit lycosaurus? I would
sell my certified O-360 and buy 10 of these.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XP360 Engine |
Are you sure it's not 17,000? I saw one of these uncertified engines at the show,
and it was listing for about $8,000 less then the certified variety.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << Superior's version of the 180 Hp O360 in kit form is expected to list at
> under $1700. Assembled it was to be priced at under $1900. The engine was
> suppose to be available in a 190Hp carb'ed version, as well (for these
> prices) as well as an injected version for an additional $2000. All in
> All this seems to be a reasonable cost to me. >>
>
> No sh*t? For less than a good Rotax I can have a kit lycosaurus? I would
> sell my certified O-360 and buy 10 of these.
>
> -GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH (DON'T make me say AirVenture) |
----------
> From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carol Knight <cknight(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | RV Aircraft Upholstery Products |
RV Builders
I have been in the upholstery business for 26 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 14 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (208)
342-2602 or e-mail me at cknight(at)rmci.net. Photos available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH (DON'T make me say AirVenture) |
Since you asked........
My Oshkosh adventure started on Tuesday when I arrived about 11:00 am flying
the Grand 51, (the plastic turbine mustang). It was a bee hive, the wind
was howling out of the WSW and the Warbird arrivals were landing on 35 R and
all present company included were complaining about it. Then they shut off
the Fisk arrival and the Navajo chase plane ended up in Fondulac. The
turbine got parked at Custom built HQ with the Legend and the Private
Explorer. About 4 in the after noon we Launched back for Fargo in the
Navajo. I arrived in Fargo at about 7:30 and jumped in the panther and
blasted off for home. At 9500 ft, 210 kts was the speed and in less than an
hour and a half I was home in Iowa.
I spent Wednesday salvaging the remains of my business and my marriage (I
had been in Fargo for 10 days in Fargo flying the time off of the G-51, but
that is another story!)
Thursday Morning I was up early and left MCW about 6:00 to be at Ripon as
close to 7:00 as possible. I followed someone in a rag wing who was flying
less than 90 mph, much less 90 kts and not another plane in sight, but you
know, "no overs no unders, no side by sides....." so I plowed up the arrival
and landed. I got 2 quick right turns and crossed 27 taxied down to the RV
area was shut down in minutes. I found a spot right behind the Warbird Cafe
and pulled the panther to its parking spot. ( make a note to make sure you
have enuf air in your tires before OSH next year, they pull alot easier,
mine were pretty soggy)
Mark Landoll met me an gave me a flyer for his wares. I told him I needed
more weight not less in the nose and I already had a ring, he was satisified
and we chatted for a while.
I have taken several warbirds to Oshkosh and have flown in the warbird show
there a few times. I was aware of the hassles involved in flying there but
I had never been there in an airplane that got as much attention as the
turbine mustang. It was nearly a full time job going to briefings and
finding photo planes, fuel truck etc. Sitting on the wing of the pink
panther talking to RVer's is alot more relaxing.
We went to the Sport Aviation photo briefing conducted by Bruce Moore. It
was the best organized photo shoot I have ever done. ( I have flown in some
goat rope photo shoots) I had a minor mechanical problem and, to be safe,
aborted early and went back before they were done.
I told the G-51 folks that I was at their disposal for the duration with one
exception, Sat 8-1 was my 40th birthday and I was planning a Command
Performance at the Acey Duecy Lounge. Because we scrubbed early in the
Saturday shoot, I had to be flying at 7:00 on Sunday so the celebration was
limited to a few beers, a cigar and a very bad rendition of Happy Birthday
sung by some well oiled Warbird types in Warbird camping.
I met and flew with "Check Six Mark" and his HR2 in the showcase, The
showcase was a take off one pass and a landing, the FlyBy pattern is a
better deal...I also met MoeJoe at the airplane. Chet Razer and his Chiquita
was there. I talked to Joe Haycraft who was my next door nieghbor last year
at OSH. I met John Harmon and looked at the Rockets. (I want one, bad!) I
never made the noon meetings and could not make the banquet.
On Sunday I finished all the Photo work and went to the Warbird HQ to look
at the DTN Radar. I decided that any further loitering would involve a wet
sleeping bag so I folded my tent and ran for home Sunday about noon. 1+30
later I was there. I laid down on the couch and took a 2 hour nap.
My plan was to go back to OSH on Tuesday with a friend and get the turbine
mustang and bring it to MCW. We met at the airport at 6:00 tuesday,
scrubbed and went to breakfast. The mustang is still at OSH.
On my way home from work Friday I stopped at the airport and found a Great
Lakes and a Decathalon who just made it out of OSH. Hopefully today
(Saturday) I will finally make it back to bring home the G51.
Oshkosh gets bigger every year, some say that is not better and I could
argue that, but I truly believe that the EAA is the biggest driving force in
Aviation today. Most of the really neat things we have seen and will see in
aviation in the near future, ( and there are going to be some really neat
things!) have their roots in Experimental aviation. Whether you like the
Pobers, the people or the plastic planes, you can't argue that it is the
"Greatest Spectacle in Aviation!"
See Ya All Next Year!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frankzip(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
Had a starter solonoid engage in flight about 20-30 min after takeoff while on
an ILS approach in MVFR/IFR. First indication was the radios went to heck. I
don't think there is any shielding on a starter as they are not normally used
in flight. The starter was probably running for 5-6 min befor we landed and
shut down. A couple of the screws holding one end on were pretty loose, don't
think the starter would have kept running for a lot longer. The expert repair
action by an A+P was to hit the solonoid with a hammer.If this ever happens to
you just turn off the master, of course then you have no radios, comm, elect
flaps, etc.
Frank, RV8 ,Kansas City,empennage, practicing riviting,gathering courage to
start riviting for good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's in St. Paul, MN?? |
In the "for what it's worth" category . . . I waited in line three different
times at Oshkosh to sit in the tri-gear "8" (and made it to the front seat
three times). I'm 5'8" so I'm not the true test for the "8", but during one
of my visits to the Van's tent there was a guy ahead of me who was at least
6' 4", probably taller. He sat in both the front and rear of the "8"
without a problem (with the canopy closed). What made this so interesting
is that height, alone, is only one criteria. This guy was built sort of
strange . . . his waist only about as high as my waist . . . so from his
posterior to his head was quite a distance. Anyway, he had no problem
fitting on board the "8". I know you've asked about the "6" and
"4"--thought I'd share this for those who are looking at the "8" or
something bigger than the "4".
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: uncle wiggly <ethereal(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Friday, August 07, 1998 3:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV's in St. Paul, MN??
>
>I am in the serious wanna-be-builder stage, but I have some concerns
>about interior dimensions and comfort. I have Vans info package and
>video (the video really got me drooling!) but it's hard to test
>comfort level based on a drawing (though I did make a cardboard box in
>the shape and size of an RV4 and tried sitting in it (heh))
>
>The interior dimensions of the RV8 look plenty roomy, but I would like
>to see how comfortable I would be in a 6 or even a 4. (I am tall,
>mostly long legs)
>
>I know, I know, i shoulda gone to Oshkosh, but hey, I missed it,
>soo...
>
>Is there anyone on the list in my area who wouln't mind taking me up
>for a quick ride, or even a builder with a mostly completed
>fusalage/interior? I'd be happy to spring for gas if needed.
>
>I am currently a student pilot flying out of St. Paul Holman field..
>
>Email: timf(at)ushandball.org
>
>or call (651) 224-4416
>
>Thanks!.....Tim Friendshuh
>To reply via email, remove the bananna!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Supply for Lead for balancing elevator |
Simple question -- where are people getting their lead for counter-balance?
I stopped by 2 tire stores asking for old/used weights from tires, but they
recycle and never had more than a small handful. I stopped by a firearms
store and told them what I were doing. They said the lead they had for
reloaders wouldn't be the best choice due to melting temperatures.
I know Van sells some pre-cast units.
Reply to me: jpl(at)showpg.mn.org. I'll summarize to the list.
Thanks.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Certified Standards |
Gang --
Remember you want the FSDO inspector to give you a clean bill of health.
When I called the St. Paul FSDO, the guy there who does inspections gave
me only 2 pieces of advice:
1. Keep airframe log with inspections before closing major portions. It
makes them feel you're being more professional.
2. Use TSO'd lights.
The entire airplane, and the only thing he was concerned about was the lights.
I intend to take his advice seriously. But I'm also planning on having
a little placard that says "VFR/IFR DAY/NIGHT".
-Joe
> >Return-Path: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 22:00:29 -0400
> From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Certified Standards
> Mime-Version: 1.0
>
>
> There was an article in kitplanes a few months back about how to build
> your own strobes with stuff you can buy at radio shack. It was the issue
> with the Lancair on the cover, I can get the date if anyone is
> interested. The article raved about how easy they were to see.
>
> --
> Moe Colontonio
> moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
> Check out my RV-8 page at:
> http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
>
>
> >
> > What about the concept that we are trying to build aircraft that exceed
> > certified standards. We like to boast that we use cutting edge technology
> > that the FAA only dreams about approving? Seems ironic that some RV
builders
> > want to use old strobe technology.
> > If the price is really the only issue, don't put any strobes on the plane at
> > all.
> >
> > Bob Busick
> > RV-6
> > Fremont CA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernard Banche" <bb8212(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: XP360 Engine |
>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Fri Aug 7 19:23:22 1998
>Received: (from daemon@localhost)
(PDT)
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 22:14:48 -0400
>Subject: Re: RV-List: XP360 Engine
>Message-ID: <19980807.221457.11510.5.wstucklen1(at)juno.com>
>References: <85256659.004CD4E9.00(at)dpmail101.dukepower.com>
>X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 0-1,9-21,23-24,26-30
>From: wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen)
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
Stucklen)
>
>Listers,
>
> i too saw this engine at Oshkosh,and it looked like a dream come
true.
>Superior's version of the 180 Hp O360 in kit form is expected to list
at
>under $1700. Assembled it was to be priced at under $1900. The engine
was
>suppose to be available in a 190Hp carb'ed version, as well (for these
>prices) as well as an injected version for an additional $2000. All in
>All this seems to be a reasonable cost to me. It will be available from
>XP Industries. Contact Ray Scott at XP Industries at (817)-540-6500
for
>more details.....
>
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>E. Windsor, Ct.
> $1700 ? $1900 ? Did you forget some zeros ?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Supply for Lead for balancing elevator |
Plumbing shops may still have "plumber's lead" - it comes in 2 or 3 lb
chunks, and is easy to melt. Doesn't cost much.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: OSH (DON'T make me say AirVenture) |
David Hudgins(N957DH-?) and I made a quick trip to Oshkosh this year, so I
though I would share some quick thoughts I had.
We made it up Saturday evening after the airshow and could already tell the
number of planes had thinned. Sunday was great, it seemed the crowds were
lighter than I remember on Sundays. Had no problem visiting all the booths
I wanted in the exhibit area. I noticed more alternative powerplant
displays this year. Seems like there was a wankel over near the air wing
exhibit, and the v-4 diesel, powersport(?), two sets of Suburu guys, a
Northstar V-8 in something. Anyway, seemed to be more activity in this
arena than I remember before.
I looked at the Exp-Bus 2, which I thought was pretty neat. Immediately
went to the archives(the new search engine is super cool), and read about
the original. It seems they are at least listening to what people want in
their systems. Also, the company had a ANR intercom set-up.
Bought some tools Avery and Cleveland. Bought a Engine overhaul tape from
the fellow at the Mattituck tent(a little disappointing, but interesting),
he had all of the different 4 cyl engine variations(0-320,0-360, IO-360).
As far as interesting planes, Yellow Lionheart got my heart pumping, Four
S-51s(if time and money were no object!!!!!), still think the Sherpa is
cool. I am intigued by the composite prop being co-funded by NASA - it
apparently has been tested on a RV-4(a three blade version,too). Didn't get
a chance to talk to anyone but at least they seem to be progressing.
It was fun to see the Concorde actually working(last time I saw it it
seemed to be down for maintenance the whole time).
Dave's plane, white top and red bottom flew beautifully both ways. We left
mid-day Monday and beat the weather. I like being there late if your
shopping in the exhibit area. Crowds were great.
I guess the name AirVenture is for anyone who doesn't know what Oshkosh means.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Supply for Lead for balancing elevator |
I have found "stick lead" in most all welding shops.....some shops even have an
epoxey for making molds...at least around the portland aerea.
John W. Fasching wrote:
>
> Plumbing shops may still have "plumber's lead" - it comes in 2 or 3 lb
> chunks, and is easy to melt. Doesn't cost much.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
Someone asked about an 0-340 the other day. I saw an ad that said the
lycoming 0-340 a1a was only certified for the twin Navion d-16's. They were
also stc'd for use in several aircraft, but there was not a list of the
other aircraft. So they are out there, somewhere.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Supply for Lead for balancing elevator |
I have used fishing lead sinkers, melts well and cost about $.50 for a 2 oz
weight. I also bought some lead shot, it also worked well when melted, but
had to buy 20 lbs for about $18.00
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
>Had a starter solonoid engage in flight about 20-30 min after takeoff
while on
>an ILS approach in MVFR/IFR. First indication was the radios went to heck.
Contactor sticking is not a spontaneous activity . . . in the situation
cited, I'll bet a steak dinner to a donut that the contactor stuck
at the time the engine was started and continued until noticed by the
pilot when the alternator (40-60 amps) and battery (25 a.h.) lost the
tug-of-war with a powered up but free wheeling starter motor (60-100A?)
and things went black . . . . A starter engaged light is SOOOoooooo simple
to add, why not have one. Alternatively, adequate instrumentation
of the electrical system would have revealed (1) bus voltage low
because total loads exceeded the output capability of the alternator
and/or (2) alternator output -or- battery ammeter pegged against the
charg'n real hard stop for the duration of the flight.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Finishing |
> How many of you are putting any kind of "finish" on the inside of
>your fiberglass cowling? I'm told that the cowl must me prepared on the
>inside so that the fiberglass will not absorb oil and ruin the exterior
>finish.
Kevin,
I haven't had any paint problems with my un-finished cowl on my six after
3 years and 435 hrs of operation. Filling the weave might make it easier to
clean up the cowl but would add weight.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY On foot, after tommorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: XP360 Engine |
In a message dated 8/7/98 7:44:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wstucklen1(at)Juno.com writes:
<< seems to be a reasonable cost to me. >>
FRED
Add one ZERO to those price quotes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: XP360 Engine |
Frederic w Stucklen wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> i too saw this engine at Oshkosh,and it looked like a dream come true.
> Superior's version of the 180 Hp O360 in kit form is expected to list at
> under $1700. Assembled it was to be priced at under $1900. The engine was
> suppose to be available in a 190Hp carb'ed version, as well (for these
> prices) as well as an injected version for an additional $2000. All in
> All this seems to be a reasonable cost to me. It will be available from
> XP Industries. Contact Ray Scott at XP Industries at (817)-540-6500 for
> more details.....
>
> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> wstucklen1(at)juno.com
> E. Windsor, Ct.
>
Fred,
Did you leave off a zero on all the figures in your email? Seems to me a
Cylinder from Superior goes
for at least $1100 each. What am I missing here??
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
>There was an article in kitplanes a few months back about how to build
>your own strobes with stuff you can buy at radio shack. It was the issue
>with the Lancair on the cover, I can get the date if anyone is
>interested. The article raved about how easy they were to see.
I've seen many articles over the years on do-it-yourself strobes.
Please understand that the maximum light output that can be
expected from any strobe, amateur built or otherwise is a function
of the energy storage capacitor and the voltage to which it is
charged between flashes. The formula is:
Energy (joules) = Voltage Squared * Capacitance (farads)/2
If you have a 100 microFarad capacitor charged to 300 volts
the potential energy is 4.5 joules. Note that I use the
work "potential" . . . the REAL light output is a further
function of flash tube efficiency and series resistances
in the flash tube current path that throw away some of the
energy stored as heat instead of light.
Most of the "do-it-yourself" articles I've seen are really
puny in the stored energy and light output department.
Another issue arrises with the strobe tubes recommended in the
articles:
They're generally designed for photoflash applications . . . this
might be 4 to 40 joule flashes . . . perhaps a few thousand
flashes for the lifetime of the camera. Now bang this critter at
a full 10+ joules (the smallest of commercial strobes found on
most aircraft) at 1 flash per second and you get 3,600 flashes
per flight hour. Tests I've run on many off-the-shelf photoflash
tubes show the device is down to 50% of original light output
in 5-20 hours.
If you'd like to match current certified aircraft strobe
requirements, it's tougher yet.
I'm thinking about doing an article on building your own
power supply for off the shelf aircraft tubes and fixtures.
You'd save perhaps 25% on the overall cost of the system
and spend quite a few hours doing it. I've watched the
strobe light market for years with an eye toward competing
and I can tell you, it's NOT an attractive market. That's
why you'll probably never see a strobe system offered from
the 'Connection. At current prices from 'certified' suppliers,
I can't justify it. I know they SEEM expensive but try
to duplicate the performance for less money with a new
design and the catalog prices get pretty attractive.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Freeman" <jcfree(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Supply for Lead for balancing elevator |
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org>
Date: Saturday, August 08, 1998 13:26
Subject: RV-List: Supply for Lead for balancing elevator
try a plumbing supply house
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loren D. Jones" <Loren(at)LorenJones.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's in St. Paul, MN?? |
Darn! You probably missed several RV's at your airport the morning after
your post. It was the bi-monthly builder's breakfast. I couldn't make it,
but you should be able to track down some willing Mpls.-St. Paul builder's
who'll give you a look at their babies. It's an incredibly helpful bunch.
Loren Jones
Still studying the -6 tail parts and flying the Mooney!
-----Original Message-----
From: uncle wiggly <ethereal(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Friday, August 07, 1998 5:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV's in St. Paul, MN??
>
>I am in the serious wanna-be-builder stage, but I have some concerns
>about interior dimensions and comfort. I have Vans info package and
>video (the video really got me drooling!) but it's hard to test
>comfort level based on a drawing (though I did make a cardboard box in
>the shape and size of an RV4 and tried sitting in it (heh))
>
>The interior dimensions of the RV8 look plenty roomy, but I would like
>to see how comfortable I would be in a 6 or even a 4. (I am tall,
>mostly long legs)
>
>I know, I know, i shoulda gone to Oshkosh, but hey, I missed it,
>soo...
>
>Is there anyone on the list in my area who wouln't mind taking me up
>for a quick ride, or even a builder with a mostly completed
>fusalage/interior? I'd be happy to spring for gas if needed.
>
>I am currently a student pilot flying out of St. Paul Holman field..
>
>Email: timf(at)ushandball.org
>
>or call (651) 224-4416
>
>Thanks!.....Tim Friendshuh
>To reply via email, remove the bananna!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
>>
>> If inquiring minds really want to know, a starter engaged light
>> on the panel is the best way.
>>
>>
>
>Bob,
>
>How does one rig up something like this?
>
Install a 5-amp, inline fuse in a piece of 22AWG wire so that
the fuse is 6" or less away from the wire's attachment to the
starter motor's main power feed terminal (usually a 5/16"
treaded stud . . . sometimes 3/8"). Extend wire into
the cabin and attach to any handy lamp fixture fitted with
a 12 volt lamp. Helps if this fixture is right in front
of pilot. One side of the lamp is fed with the wire from
the starter, the other side of the lamp is grounded to
airframe or electrical system ground. No press to test
needed . . . you should watch and EXPECT the lamp to light
during cranking . . . a test of the lamp's functionality.
Of course, as the starter switch is released, the lamp
should go dark . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
<< I've seen many articles over the years on do-it-yourself strobes.
Please understand that the maximum light output that can be
expected from any strobe, amateur built or otherwise is a function
of the energy storage capacitor and the voltage to which it is
charged between flashes. >>
The size/volume of the xenon tube is also a big factor. Larger tubes can
produce more light from a given input. The half hitch in the Whelen strobes
used in the wingtip mounted units is an attempt to increase the bulb size, and
hence, output. If you don't care to meet FAR 23, use fireflies in a mason
jar. They're cheapest.
Look in the ACS catalog and compare the effective candle output from the same
25 joule power supply input to the A600/A650/A625 half hitch tube (660 eff
cand), the A500 toroid shaped tube (330 eff cand), the A450 small horseshoe
tube (330 eff cand) and that big bad boy A470 white large horseshoe tube (825
eff cand!).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RAINPOOF(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FOR SALE RV-6/6A kit w/engine |
I have decided to switch to the RV-8 and want to sell my parcial 6/6A kit. The
Emp is complete and painted Viper Red. The Wings with the pre-built spar are
about 80% complete. The fuselage and finishing kit are ready to be ordered. I
do have the fuselage jig. The engine is a mid-time O-320 A2A complete with all
accessories and good logs. All cylinders are in the high 70's. Washinton
State---$12500. FIRM
Jerry Engel
Rainpoof(at)AOL.com
(360) 666-1690
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n255gh <n255gh(at)frontiernet.net> |
There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I thought
the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
collapses, is no confidence builder.
I have just completed the top skin on the fuselage, and would hate to
think that
I am bulding the wrong kit. Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
thinking??
n255gh fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH (DON'T make me say AirVenture) |
>I guess the name AirVenture is for anyone who doesn't know what Oshkosh
means.
>
>Shelby in Nashville.
>
BTW, the name change was so that EAA could trademark it and charge royalties
(which we the members end up paying). I'll keep using Oshkosh. If nothing
else it's cheaper.
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
>There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
>fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I thought
>the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
>collapses, is no confidence builder.
>
>n255gh fuselage
>
>
This is somewhere around 7% of all flying RV's over 20 years. Wonder what
the cert. airplane or other kit stats are? I work on certified stuff, and
some of the things that I hear about the RV's don't seem all that unusual
for a fleet this size and age. The certified stuff has AD's that many times
resulted from an accident.
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Pad Plate? |
Listers,
A recent EAA chapter newsletter pointed out Lycoming Service Instruction
1438, "Propeller Governor Pad Plate P/N LW-12347". The text of the SI says that
the use of the plate and two gaskets is necessary "with some propeller
governors to eliminate the possibility of oil leakage between the propeller
governor and the accessory housing."
On my O-360 A1A (from Van's) I've installed a Woodward governor (also from
Van's). The governor came with a single flexible gasket-looking thing with an
integral screen. How is one supposed to mount the prop governor? I'd
assumed that the gasket/screen thing was to go between the governor and the
accessory case. Now I'm wondering if I need the plate that SI 1438 refers to,
and/or the MS 9144-01 gasket or 72053 gasket illustrated in SI 1438.
Any experience to share?
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Finishing |
In a message dated 8/8/98 5:45:43 PM Central Daylight Time, bskinr(at)trib.com
writes:
<< Filling the weave might make it easier to
clean up the cowl but would add weight. >>
FYI, I've heard the Coast Guard has problems with their Dauphin helicopters
gaining weight over their lifetime due to water, fuel, and oil getting
absorbed into all of the composite parts in that aircraft. Don't know if
finishing will help or not.
-Nick Stolley
Woodbury, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: OSH (DON'T make me say AirVenture) |
In a message dated 8/8/98 10:15:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
Morristec(at)icdc.com writes:
<< BTW, the name change was so that EAA could trademark it and charge
royalties
(which we the members end up paying). I'll keep using Oshkosh. If nothing
else it's cheaper. >>
YOu know...OSH is getting so big, do you think it could be a precursor to it
changing from Oshkosh, to something, like..say...O'hare?
-Nick Stolley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Installing Lightspeed Electronic Ignition |
Based on the recommendation of Jon Johanson I choose a Lightspeed electronic
ignition, despite the somewhat frightening story Ken (the Dummy) printed in
early 1996 RVators concerning his experience installing one. Today I completed
(in one day) the stuff that had been worrying me for months.
The Lightspeed system takes piston position information (for timing) from a pair
of transducers mounted on a plate attached to the front of the engine, right
behind the prop hub. 4 bolt holes must be tapped in the case of the engine.
That's scary enough. To make it worse, a lug must be removed from the hub so
that you can get a straight shot at the crank case to drill and tap those 4 holes.
Simple way to remove a lug from the prop hub: Go to friendly hardware or
plumbing store and get a 1/2" long piece of steel pipe with 1" inner diameter.
This is your spacer. Also get one 1" and one 1 1/2" long 1/2 - 20 bolt, and a
washer with 1/2" inner diameter and 1 1/4" or so outer diameter. Put the spacer
over the lug you want to remove, on the back side of the hub. Put the washer
behind the spacer, and put the bolt thru the washer, the spacer, and into the lug.
Tighten bolt into lug, thereby pulling the lug out. Very simple. After drilling
and
tapping the holes (I used 4 flute 1/4 - 20 tap with plain old sewing machine oil
as
lubricant) one can use the spacer, bolt, and washer to pull the lug back into
position on the prop hub. No banging or hammering required (despite what Ken
said in his article).
The other scary part was drilling and tapping the trigger bolts into the flywheel.
I found it disconcerting to see how close the hole was to the edge of the "pulley
flange" part of the starter ring. It turns out that one can drill a small (#40)
hole
from the outside of the ring into the interior of the ring, then drill and tap
from the
INSIDE of the ring. The beauty of this method is you don't have to drill all the
way back out, so you don't have to drill the big (#21) hole all the way thru the
"pulley flange" portion of the starter gear. (One only needs to tap about 3/8"
of
the inner portion of the hole.)
This whole process took me 7 hours, including going to two hardware stores to
get the taps and bolts and spacers (7/8" is too long, therefore another trip to
get
a 1/2" long spacer), and much time spent double checking the diagram that came
with the Lightspeed plans.
Tim "much relieved" Lewis
I WILL be done by OSH 99, I WILL go to OSH 99... but I said this about OSH 98,
too...
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
>I am bulding the wrong kit. Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
>thinking??
Personally, I'm thinking this is going to be a GREAT plane. I'm not at all
worried about the design.
Russell Duffy
RV-8(maybe 8A) skinning wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
Had some pretty ugly cracks develop on my lower cowl, (around the airscoop)
after only 45hrs. Sanded the paint and filler off along the entire joint area,
laid a couple of layers of glass over it, re-filled, sanded and had it re-
painted. Now, after only 3hrs it is doing it again! The crack is much smaller
this time but there never the less.
Any thoughts as to why this is happening? Anyone else experience this?
Walt RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hamer" <shamer(at)mscomm.com> |
| Subject: | Boost Pump circuit breaker |
Went to Blythe today, very hot, like about 115. Went to start to come home and
when I hit the boost pump, the circuit breaker popped. This happened several
times. The breaker would pop without the pump ever making any attempt to run.
Just when I was about to resign myself to a night in Blythe, it started working.
Any Ideas on how to go about figuring out what I have going on here would
be appreciated. (The CB is a 5 amp)
Steve Hamer
RV-4
RV-6 under construction(wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Lightspeed Electronic Ignition |
Mine was much easier as my engine had a cover plate on the front where you had
to drill and tap; the holes were already there! Also, since I live only 40
minutes from Klaus', I had him drill and tap the flywheel, ($50). The rest of
the installation was a breeze. BTW, it works great so far, (55hrs on it now) .
Walt. RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Boost Pump circuit breaker |
steve,
sorry i don't know the answer to the boost pump problem, but i have a
question for you. i see your building wings on a 6 , so am i, i just
finished the flaps and ailerons, but i was following the plans and the
manual, and there is no mention on how to install the electric aileron trim
servo, did i screw up because my ailerons are rivited closed already, are do
they mount in the wings since i saved them for last
any help would be apreciated
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
>
>There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
>fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I
thought
>the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
>collapses, is no confidence builder.
>I have just completed the top skin on the fuselage, and would hate to
>think that
>I am bulding the wrong kit. Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
>thinking??
>
>n255gh fuselage
I've certainly had my doubts..and probably will continue to have them
for a while. Yet, every time I start a work session in the shop on my
-8, I can't help but think how BEEFY this thing is. By the time my
plane is finished, there will be many -8s flying, and will have already
racked up hundreds of hours. We all have, some of us unknowingly, agreed
to the role of "test pilot" in this RV building enterprise..and there
are no guarantees. I am convinced of Van's sincerity in everything he
does, and that he will exhaust every possible venue to find the best way
to resolve these issues as they occur.
I've personally seen a gear failure in a -6A...the nosewheel strut
folded near the wheel fork during a rather stiff crosswind arrival. We
could beat this one to death...and probably never come up with a "fix"
for it. It is a proven, viable design, and the odds just happened to
stack up against the pilot of this aircraft on that day. (The plane is
fine, no prop strike, no other issues).
I don't think Van...or any designer, for that matter, can design an
airframe that will survive any and all possible encounters in the flight
environment. There will always be some unknown elements in each flight
profile...clear air turbulence, sudden drastic maneuvers to avoid a
collision, wind shear, catastrophic engine failure (blown jug, separated
prop), and so on.
The quick and easy answer? There isn't one. There ARE some things we can
do to reduce our exposure to risk; like..stay on the ground. YUCK! I
don't think so. Okay, so now what? How about wearing a parachute so you
can have an opportunity to abandon the aircraft? This is my plan thus
far. The new ones are quite comfortable, lightweight, and you forget
you have them on within minutes. If all hell breaks loose, and you have
the altitude...GET OUT and call the insurance company on your cellphone
on the way down. Yeah..I know..rather "James Bondish".
So, let's all stick together, share our thoughts and concerns, and
continue on with our projects. We owe it to ourselves, our dreams, and
to Orville and Wilbur. (Just LOVE those guys :)
Just my thoughts on the matter thus far.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
fuselage underway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
n255gh wrote:
>
>
> There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
> fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I thought
> the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
> collapses, is no confidence builder.
> I have just completed the top skin on the fuselage, and would hate to
> think that
> I am bulding the wrong kit. Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
> thinking??
>
> n255gh fuselage
>
If you really want know the answer to this question you need to look at
each accident on a one to one bases and determine what caused each
accident. Even the cases were wings came off, what was the circumstance?
There is not a airplane out there that you can't tear a wing off from
if it is flown outside of the design limits.
What would be the right kit? Is there one out there that has a perfect
record with nearly 2000 flying?
As far as the gear failure we will have to wait and see what the test
results are on the material. I know that Van flies his off of Sunset
airstrip almost every day and it is in my opinion a very rough field.
I would also suggest you do a search on how many Kitfox, Lancairs,
Glasairs, etc. have accidents compared to the number flying and see
just what the percentages are.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
Did you read all those reports? I did before I bought my kit, and most
of those accidents were pilot error, not airframe failure. Many of them
were low level aerobatics where the pilot was showing off. Of all the
accidents that I read through, only 1 RV-4 airframe failed, and the tail
came off. The report read "there was no evidence that the attach bolts
were in place" or something like that. If you research the RV-3 wing
failures, you will find that in just about every case, the limit load
was exceeded. Van himself claimed to have pulled 7 G's in his own 3 with
no problems in an old Sport Aviation article. Look at the Van Guard
squadron. Those guys flew formation shows with no wing mods, and had no
problems. Every airframe has it's limits, and if you exceed them, you
are taking a chance. If you wanna see some problems, do a search for
Decathlon/Citabria or Pitts accidents, and these are planes that are
purpose built for acro. Considering how many amatuer built RV's are out
there, and how much performance the plane delivers, I'm surprised there
are not alot more accidents.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> >
> >There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
> >fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I
> thought
> >the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
> >collapses, is no confidence builder.
> >I have just completed the top skin on the fuselage, and would hate to
> >think that
> >I am bulding the wrong kit. Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
> >thinking??
> >
> >n255gh fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts-huh |
I hate to wade into these murky waters---but the RV series of aircraft do
pretty well when you compare them to other homebuilts or factory builts. Go
take a look at the monthly NTSB Summarys. Things break and fail on all kinds
of aircraft. The Famous and much Vaunted Bonanza has a history of inflight
structural failures and just recently the FAA has imposed a new redline for
the older (and admittidly high time) Bonanzas. Wings have come off Cessnas and
in recent history at least two Sukois and several Yaks and a 747 blew up in
mid-air(not trying to be humorous one bit). Even the respected Pitts has had
wing failures. The original Grumman/Yankee aircraft had nose gear failures and
Kitfoxes/Avids/Merlins have had main gear collapses, Luscombes loose their
gear all the time and suffer from intergrannular corrosion of the wing spars.
This could go on forever--I have not even begun to delve into the things I
have seen inside all kinds of aircraft that scare the hell out of me. The
facts are that Training, Responsibilty, Maintenance, Attitude, Planning are
usually the things (lack of) that kill pilots and their planes not structural
failures. This is true for the RV's as well--you are building a good kit--the
RV-8 will be a great plane---are you willing to become a good pilot as well?
I believe your fears are mostly unfounded. Many homebuilts suffer from the
--I built and therefore I can damm well fly it--itous, RV's included. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David C. Aronson, DDS" <"daronson@mailhost"@cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 IO360 Wt & Bal |
RV-Listers,
I am contemplating an IO360 200hp to RV4 match. Am working the Wt &
Bal. I do not have adequate data to do this. I need the distance from
the front of the motor mount (engine CG location) to the empty CG. The
position of the empty CG positon (relationship to leading edge of
wing). If you look at page 278 in Firewall Forward (Tony Bingelis) you
will see what I am trying to do. The weight of your empty RV4 and the
weight of your dry engine/prop system would be helpful.
Please reply to me directly to limit the traffic on the list.
Thanks for your time
David Aronson
daronson(at)cwnet.com
(707) 448-5550 (fax)
(707) 448-8512 (Home)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Drilling the cowl |
After you've clecoed the horizontal hinge to the lower cowl half, how
do you drill through the top cowl into the floppy top hinge half? I
did it this way.
- cut a strip of aluminium the length and width of the assembled
hinge.
- match drill it to the lower hinge which was clecoed to the lower
cowl
- recleco with the strip sandwiched between hinge and cowl
- tape the hinge top half to the strip to hold it rigid
- locate the top cowl
- place large washers under 6 or 8 of the clecoes to keep the cowls
butted along their mating edges
- drill and cleco the top cowl
- use a Dremel with the fine ceramic parting disc to cut a straight
parallel sided 1/32" part line between the cowls and between cowls and skin
Hope this helps some other tortured soul.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cracks in cowl |
Walt,
Are the cracks going thru the fiberglass its self
or are they just in the gellcoat? How thick is the cowl
in that area? Sounds like you should reinforce the cowl
from the inside this time.
RV4 Stew.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David and Melissa Hamilton <hamlton(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
<35C9CA0C.BB4ACAAB(at)teleport.com>
"Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
>thinking??"
I'm Thinking how badly I want to get this thing in the air. With my work
situation it will be 2 more years.
The RV's have an outstanding safety record. There are over 1900 flying and
most of these accidents you refer to were pilot error. Van has an
outstanding reputation and is well respected. The rv-3 problem has been
corrected and if a problem is found with the rv-8 Van will fix that too.
But, I don't think there is anything wrong with the 8.
Check the accident update on the website. Van has reviewed the design,
hired an independent engineering firm to validate the design and plans to
static test to destruction an second set of wings in the very near future.
He is going above and beyond to be sure his responsibilities to us are
fulfilled. I predict a clean bill of health very soon.
I don't post here often. I prefer to lurk in the shadows. But, I was
actully offended my your post and felt compelled to respond. Any aircraft
can be over stressed. At the stalling speed if you snatch the stick back
you can get one G before you stall the aircraft (1 squared). At two times
the stall speed you'll get 4 g's before the wing stalls (2 squared). At
three times the stall speed (approx 180 MPH) you'll get 9 G's (3 squared),
and at 4 times the stall speed you would be rewarded with 16 g's. The only
airplane you can't break is one that can't go more than twice it's stall
speed in a power on dive.
One nose gear failure in certainly not a trend, The crack seems to have
been there fore some time and could have been detected and repaired. These
are airplanes not rocks, they are complicated machines.
Since you asked, I think Van makes the aircraft kits anywhere and I stand
behind him and his products 100%.
Dave Hamilton
RV-8 (80001)
N880RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
n255gh wrote:
>
>
> There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
> fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I thought
> the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
> collapses, is no confidence builder.
> I have just completed the top skin on the fuselage, and would hate to
> think that
> I am bulding the wrong kit. Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
> thinking??
>
> n255gh fuselage
>
"A Ship is safe in the harbor, but that's not what ships are for"
I don't know who to attribute this quote to, but I use it alot when
strangers ask me if I'm "really going to fly that thing?"
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
I'm thinking that I want to be one of the 1700+ other pilots who have
not had an accident.
PatK - RV-6A - Looking for building space for fuselage
n255gh wrote:
>
> There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
> fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I thought
> the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
> collapses, is no confidence builder.
> I have just completed the top skin on the fuselage, and would hate to
> think that
> I am bulding the wrong kit. Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
> thinking??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cracks in cowl |
<< Had some pretty ugly cracks develop on my lower cowl, (around the airscoop)
after only 45hrs. Sanded the paint and filler off along the entire joint
area,
laid a couple of layers of glass over it, re-filled, sanded and had it re-
painted. Now, after only 3hrs it is doing it again! The crack is much
smaller
this time but there never the less.
Any thoughts as to why this is happening? Anyone else experience this? >>
I suspect that you have a lot of vibration coming from the engine/prop
combination. Have you had the system dynamically balanced? If not, you might
consider. If you are running a wood prop, you might smooth things out by
installing Landoll's weight ring prior to the dynamic balancing.
If the scoop area is too floppy and the resonant frequency is being hit, you
might find it helpful to stiffen the scoop area with some extra foam and glass
on the inside.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Finishing |
I've been directly involved with the HH65 from time to time and the weight
comes primarily from leakage into honeycomb core which then fills with water
(and causes other problems). Other than, that all epoxies and ester based
resins absorb water, sometimes up to 10% of their weight. The esters are
better than epoxies in absorption. Paint helps but not necessarily much. I
painted my cowl inside for cleanliness.
Dan Morris
-----Original Message-----
From: AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com <AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, August 08, 1998 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Finishing
>
>In a message dated 8/8/98 5:45:43 PM Central Daylight Time, bskinr(at)trib.com
>writes:
>
><< Filling the weave might make it easier to
> clean up the cowl but would add weight. >>
>
>FYI, I've heard the Coast Guard has problems with their Dauphin helicopters
>gaining weight over their lifetime due to water, fuel, and oil getting
>absorbed into all of the composite parts in that aircraft. Don't know if
>finishing will help or not.
>
>-Nick Stolley
> Woodbury, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Nose Gear Failures on 6A's |
Ive been following the postings regarding the nose gear failures with
interest since I own one. I plan to inspect my gear leg at the next oil
change and will post my results. It would be very helpful if everyone
would do the same. A good data base is very important when attempting
to address a potential problem.
chet
Miss Chiquita, N66CR, 85 hours and one trip to OSH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
Bob,
I think I've mentioned this before, but as you know, the lightweight
starters (converted automobile) have their own solenoids. Their solenoid
coil is wired direct to the large terminal being powered from the firewall
mounted A/C solenoid. I don't see any reason that a separate switch could
not be installed inline (fused circuit) between the large starter terminal
and the starter mounted solenoid coil terminal (1/4" spade connector on
most) so that if the firewall mounted starter solenoid were to fail closed,
then the switch could be used to shut down the starter. This same circuit
could be used to power a "stuck starter contactor" light. This might be
particularly useful for IFR equipped birds WITHOUT AN ESSENTIAL BUSS as it
would allow the master to stay on and maintain A/C electrical power until
the flight was terminated. Other than having a powered heavy starter wire
running to the engine in a failure mode, and adding another wiring circuit
and it's potential failure points, do you see any problem(s) with this? I
believe that adding an essential buss and stuck contactor light would be a
better alternative, but it might not be practical for some aircraft.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Wow, such negatives. You had better look both ways before crosing any
streets!!!
Besides a little time and money, my plane can easily be fixed. No big
deal... And the jury is still out on the ACTUAL problem. Before you get
too depressed, lets wait and see WHY it failed.... In the mean time there
have only been four other KNOWN gear leg failures in the WORLD on an RV.
Most of those were from hitting something.
Patience my friend......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
e
>> prices) as well as an injected version for an additional $2000. All in
>> All this seems to be a reasonable cost to me. It will be available
from
>> XP Industries. Contact Ray Scott at XP Industries at (817)-540-6500
for
>> more details.....
>>
>> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>> wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>> E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Failures on 6A's |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Chet,
You might consider a magnaflux and/or dye penetrant check in addition
to your visual checks. I looked mine ove visually and never saw any
problems. These are the types of checks I plan on doing EVERY
annual......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
Waiting for engine & gear leg.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Airspeeds |
<< If possible, provide your airspeeds for the following:
Takeoff Speed
I try to get the weight off of the nose gear as soon as possible, and the
plane rotates at ~60 mph.
Best Angle Of Climb Speed
From all of my climb tests, and info from the book "Flight testing homebuilt
Aircraft", it comes out to about 78 mph on mine.
Best Rate of Climb Speed
Again, from the tests I performed on mine, I got 90 mph.
Cruise Climb Speed
I usually use 110~120 indicated, 25" mp & 2500 rpm, start to lean above
3000'
Maneuvering Speed
This is supplied from Van's in the manual, 135 mph IAS.
Glide Speed
I've done a lot of gliding to try and determine what's best. By watching my
VSI, it seems that any speed from 65 to 95 IAS seems to show about the same
descent, 1100~1200 fpm. But I've always been instructed to use Vy for engine
out glide, so I used that (90 mph) in my POH.
Approach Speed
I always get it slowed down to 110 before entering the pattern, then on
downwind I use 90 w/20 flaps, on final 80 w/30 flaps and a little power, 75
coming over the threshold power off.
Stall Speed with Flaps
At gross weight of 1800 lbs, 40 degrees flaps, 56 mph IAS
At 1400 lbs 40 degrees flap, 52 IAS
Stall Speed without Flaps.
At 1800 lbs, 61 mph IAS.
At 1400 lbs, 56 mph IAS
My -6a has an IO-320-B1A, with a constant speed prop, empty wt. 1078 lbs.
>>
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv6a aileron trim/ fuel sender |
dear listers,
where can i find instructions on installing the optional aileron trim servo.
i was following the plans and the manual and the orendolf tapes, before i
realized it, my ailerons are rivited shut. steve told me they could be added
after the fact.
also, where did you guys get you fuel sending units that fit in the tank,
does this go on during construction or later in the building phase
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Airspeeds |
| From: | jepilot(at)Juno.com (J E REHLER) |
I agree with the speeds stated by Mark except I use 85mph with about 30
degrees flap for final approach with a little power. I find the sink
rate is a little too much when approaching at 80 mph. My RV6A has an
empty weight almost the same as Mark's and I also have a CS prop and an
O-320.
J. E. Rehler RV6A flying, Corpus Christi, Texas, W5KNZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Crash at Climax |
I just talked to a friend of mine in Climax, Ga. (for real, it's near
Bainbridge, Ga.) who told me of an RV-6 crash near his home yesterday
8-8-98. Reportedly it was a 73 year old pilot from somewhere in Texas. He
suffered an oil line rupture that led to engine seizure. The pilot attempted
an unsuccessful emergency landing in a pasture and apparently nosed it over
(hard). The pilot survived but suffered many injuries. I do not have anymore
details but I am leaving to go to the scene at this time. I'll try to get a
N number and more information.
Jerry Isler
RV4 #1070
Donalsonville, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Supply for Lead for balancing elevator |
Joe;
I got my lead from the cable TV Co. here in town. They seem to have a
supply of it from their repairs and telep. wire repairs. They didn't charge
me anything for it.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
Subject: RV-List: Supply for Lead for balancing elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6a aileron trim/ fuel sender |
also, where did you guys get you fuel sending units that fit in the tank,
>does this go on during construction or later in the building phase
>scott
They are Stewart Warner 385B&C fuel senders. They can be ordered from
Van's or call or email Stewart Warner for a dealer near you. Charlie
Carter (a diesel truck parts supplier) carries them here in Phoenix. I
installed them before putting the rear baffle on the fuel tanks so I could
have room to get the float arms bent right.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ USA
rv-6a finishing wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <"bskinr(at)pop1.trib.com"(at)mail1.trib.com> |
I was supposed to deliver my RV6 today to it's new owner. We went
flying and he decided it was too much airplane for him so I let him out
of the deal. So, my RV6 is for sale again. Below are the specs.
1995 RV6 425 hrs TTA&E 150 hp O-320-E2A Lycoming White with yellow
trim
Tip up canopy with gas struts, manual flaps and elevator trim
Max cruise at 75% power at 7,500 feet, leaned for best power is 180 mph
TAS
Engine installation
ElectroAir electronic ignition in place of right mag (has digital
advance meter)
Sensenich 70CM metal fixed pitch prop
Vetterman stainless steel cross-over exhaust with dual heat muffs
Cockpit adjustable oil cooler door
Engine has used Aeroshell 15W-50 oil since break-in & uses 1.5 quarts
in-between 50 hr oil and filter changes
SkyTec lightweight starter and 35 amp alternator with Bob Nuckolls
crowbar overvoltage protection
Cockpit
Full Gyro panel
All electric engine gauges (Rochester) with electric primer to
eliminate fuel and oil pressure and primer lines in the cockpit
TKM MX-11 Comm, ARNAV R50 Loran, Bendix transponder with encoder &
Appolo 920+ GPS
E.I. electronic volt/amp gauge. Manifold pressure gauge and Braal
electronic tach
GEM Insight engine monitor-graphic bar display for CHTs & EGTs on all
cylinders
Flight Com 403D Stereo intercomm with digital clearance recorder
ACK ELT with panel mounted remote activation
Navaid Devices Wing Leveler coupled to Loran
Telex 4000 ANR headset
Panel mounted, aluminum eyeball swivel air vents coupled to fuselage
NACA inlets
Push to talk switches in each stick. Both sticks removable
Panel lights on rheostat for: master on, fuel boost on, radio master
on and press to prime
ACS push/pull throttle (safer than vernier) and vernier mixture
control
Adjustable voltage regulator (mounted in cockpit as are master and
starter relays.)
Outside temp gauge
Custom made, Temperfoam seat cushions and Sunmate seat back with
control stick boots
Misc.
Wing tip landing and taxi lights with pulse light feature and
nutplated, removable wing tips.
One piece main gear leg fairings and Vans full swivel tailwheel
Custom molded epoxy empenage fairing
Dynamically balanced metal prop
Top and bottom cowl use nutplates instead of piano hinge in highly
stressed areas
All visible screws are polished, stainless steel with countersunk
screws having polished countersunk washers
Aircraft built by Bob Skinner, EAA Tech Counselor. Ive also built a
Glasair, most of the airframe on a Glastar and have helped with several
RV projects. The FAA inspector found no discrepancies after 3 hours
of looking at my airplane during the certification process.
Price: $60,000 US
Bob Skinner 8989 US Hwy 16 West, Buffalo, WY 82834 Phone
307-684-0124
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor |
>
>I have a IO-360 in a RV-6 ..can you remove the prop governor without
>pulling the engine. Look like with the indent in the rear and removing
>the right mag you should be able to get at it. The other times I have
>removed or installed have been with the engine totally off the mount.
>
>Thanks
>
>JMP
>
>
John,
I installed mine with the engine mounted so you should be able to pull yours.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
>In the mean time there
>have only been four other KNOWN gear leg failures in the WORLD on an RV.
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
Fred,
Sorry to hear of your mishap.
I know of a 6A who had a take off accident, taking off on a rough grass
strip with "moguls" in it. He launched before having flying speed, got
crossways and folded the nose gear back so the rear of the nose fairing
poked a hole in the .040" belly skin. The left gear folded back and poked a
hole just ahead of the rear spar of the left wing. Neither leg broke. They
used a torch to heat and straigten the nose gear and left gear back into
position so that the plane could be trailered home.
Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
he back baffles. Then you can hook everything up and bend the arm to
register full and empty.
Bob Skinner RV-6 438 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Radclyffe <tera(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | John Krate Aust contact |
John, Re Aust itinery: contact me off line tera(at)ozemail.com.au
Am having probs with your direct email address.
TERA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
David,
I concur, well said. Bravo Zulu........
-----Original Message-----
From: David and Melissa Hamilton <hamlton(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: second thoughts
>
>"Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
>>thinking??"
>
>
>I'm Thinking how badly I want to get this thing in the air. With my work
>situation it will be 2 more years.
>
>The RV's have an outstanding safety record. There are over 1900 flying and
>most of these accidents you refer to were pilot error. Van has an
>outstanding reputation and is well respected. The rv-3 problem has been
>corrected and if a problem is found with the rv-8 Van will fix that too.
>But, I don't think there is anything wrong with the 8.
>
>Check the accident update on the website. Van has reviewed the design,
>hired an independent engineering firm to validate the design and plans to
>static test to destruction an second set of wings in the very near future.
>He is going above and beyond to be sure his responsibilities to us are
>fulfilled. I predict a clean bill of health very soon.
>
>I don't post here often. I prefer to lurk in the shadows. But, I was
>actully offended my your post and felt compelled to respond. Any aircraft
>can be over stressed. At the stalling speed if you snatch the stick back
>you can get one G before you stall the aircraft (1 squared). At two times
>the stall speed you'll get 4 g's before the wing stalls (2 squared). At
>three times the stall speed (approx 180 MPH) you'll get 9 G's (3 squared),
>and at 4 times the stall speed you would be rewarded with 16 g's. The only
>airplane you can't break is one that can't go more than twice it's stall
>speed in a power on dive.
>
>One nose gear failure in certainly not a trend, The crack seems to have
>been there fore some time and could have been detected and repaired. These
>are airplanes not rocks, they are complicated machines.
>
>Since you asked, I think Van makes the aircraft kits anywhere and I stand
>behind him and his products 100%.
>
>
>Dave Hamilton
>RV-8 (80001)
>N880RV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Crash at Climax |
Here is an update on the RV-6 (N245FF) crash at Climax, Ga.
The builder / pilot is Dean R. Fellows of Dallas, Texas. He has been taken
to the Tallahassee, Fla. regional hospital and is suffering from leg and
other injuries.
There were no witnesses but judging from the scene it appears that the plane
touched down in a nose down attitude wiping out the gear and forcing the
engine up and over toward the instrument panel. The aircraft traveled about
four plane lengths from the point of impact and remained upright. There was
no fire. The person who found the crash (it was in his back yard) said Mr..
Fellows, who was pinned inside, was conscience and talking during the entire
rescue. The plane is a total loss. The rescuers apparently used the jaws of
life on the cabin section, firewall and engine mount. The engine was severed
completely from the airframe during the rescue.
This accident is apparently the result of a complete loss of engine oil
leading to engine seizure. The canopy and vertical stabilizer are coated
with oil. The aircraft had 72.8 hours total time.
Jerry Isler
RV-4 #1070
Donalsonville, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cracks in cowl |
the cracks are just in the paint and filler...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cracks in cowl |
In a message dated 8/8/98 10:08:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Rvator97(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Any thoughts as to why this is happening? >>
Sounds like a pre-load.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
In a message dated 8/8/98 10:43:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< How about wearing a parachute so you
can have an opportunity to abandon the aircraft? This is my plan >>
Brian
Just beware that per the FARs, you must also provide a chute for your
passenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Crash at Climax |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Wow, at least he's alive and talking.... Says a lot for the structural
integrity of the RV's..... Hope now he had insurance......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | YBoulais1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Instruction SC |
Hi,
Just bought RV-6 and was woundering if someone know someone that could give us
flight training to me and my partner. We have both no tail time but around
800TT instrument & Commercial rating. We live in Hilton Head SC.
yboulais1(at)aol.com
Thank you!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Failures on 6A's |
<< I plan to inspect my gear leg at the next oil
change and will post my results. It would be very helpful if everyone
would do the same. >>
I'm planning to do the removal and dye penetrant test on N1GV at her first
condition inspection in Feb 1999 and expect to have about 200+ hrs of landing
on tarmac.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6a aileron trim/ fuel sender |
Dear Abayman,
If you wish to use capacitance type sensors, they must be built into the
tank during construction.
Contact Ken Krueger at Vans for instructions. Others may be installed
after.
Dick Martin
Capacitance sensors and happy
RV8 80124 almost done
----------
> From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6a aileron trim/ fuel sender
> Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 1:03 PM
>
>
> dear listers,
> where can i find instructions on installing the optional aileron trim
servo.
> i was following the plans and the manual and the orendolf tapes, before
i
> realized it, my ailerons are rivited shut. steve told me they could be
added
> after the fact.
> also, where did you guys get you fuel sending units that fit in the
tank,
> does this go on during construction or later in the building phase
> scott
> winging it in tampa
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV's in St. Paul, MN?? |
I spent several hours as a volunteer showing the RV-8 and answering questions
about RV's. I let several very large men get into the plane and closed the
canopy for them. There was room for even the largest of them. One guy was 6'
1" and weighed well over 300 pounds. He fit! Another was 6' 4" and he fit
also. Unless you are a giant, the RV-8 is big enough for you.
Jim Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV6/6A windshield molding strip |
Listers,
Anyone used the windshield molding strip that's in Van's latest Accessories
Catalog? It sounds like a good alternative to fiberglass.
There's no picture in the catalog. I assume it's aluminum with a certain
amount of shaping already done.
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI.
RV6A N86CG working on sliding canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Zoche aero diesel |
<< Subj: RV-List: Re: Zoche aero diesel
Date: 98-08-03 20:56:03 EDT
(Stuff Cut)
Thing'll cost more than the rest of the entire airplane, I'll bet. Make a
new
IO360 look cheap.
Bob Fritz
>>
Hi All,
I talked to the Zoche people (about ten years ago) about cost. They said the
cost would be about the same as the same hp Lycoming. I didn't ask, but I
believe it would be the retail Lycoming price, not Van's Lycoming price.
Jim Ayers
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Question... |
I know a guy with a 0-320 A2A that was going to be put in a project
Decathlon. He sold the project and now will sell the engine. The engine was
running when it came out of the Tri Pacer, but there are no logs. Has a
conical mount. Wide deck. It has an oil cooler, carb, starter, and
alternator, but no mags. He'll throw in the engine stand, manuals, a
FlightComm 2 place panel mount intercom and some other misc stuff all for
$3000.00.
I've know the guy for many years. He was my A&P.
Is this a good deal? Even if just a core? Looking for advice.
Thanks...
Larry Olson
RV6 - just closed the left wing!!!
Cave Creek, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: prop used in the Rv-3 Maroon Marauder |
<< Subj: RV-List: prop used in the Rv-3 Maroon Marauder
Date: 98-08-07 16:03:22 EDT
From: hbarca(at)hotmail.com (Scott Burger)
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
Mr. Ayers:
Do you use a constant speed prop in your plane, or do you use a fixed
pitch prop. I am trying to get as much information while I am saving
money for my tooling and my kit . I am looking to get an RV-6 because my
wife would kill me if I always put her in the back seat.
Thanks,
Scott Burger
Saving money for my tools and empennage kit.
email: hbarca(at)hotmail.com
>>
Actually, it's a little known fact that all European engines come equiped with
a 37mm cannon. The aluminum plate bolted onto the front of the barrel helps
to hide this fact.
I have trouble keeping a spinner on the prop, because of the muzzle blast.
:-)
Seriously though, the Maroon Marauder prop is an electric variable pitch prop.
The aluminum housing on the front of the prop contains the electric motor and
gear reduction unit. I get Max RPM (2700RPM, right?) (low pitch) for take-off
and climb, and less than 2400 RPM at full throttle in cruise (high pitch).
I've found it easier to hold loose formation position with slight RPM
adjustments, rather than throttle adjustments.
The spinner I had on the prop didn't have a front bulkhead, and the rear
bulkhead alone wasn't enough. That's why it went most of the way to Oshkosh
and back in a Bellanca.
Jim Ayers
Maroon Marauder
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Least Drag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A windshield molding strip |
Used this pre-molded fiberglass strip on my first -6A and it worked out
well. Got another for my new plane but hacked and whacked the canopy enough
that it doesn't fit too well. I plan on making a metal fairing using the
method detailed in one of the past RVators. A friend of mine did this and
his came out great.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
<101560.1256(at)compuserve.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>Anyone used the windshield molding strip that's in Van's latest Accessories
>Catalog? It sounds like a good alternative to fiberglass.
>
>There's no picture in the catalog. I assume it's aluminum with a certain
>amount of shaping already done.
>
>Chris Good,
>West Bend, WI.
>RV6A N86CG working on sliding canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
66-67,73-79
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>If you really want know the answer to this question you need to look
>at
>each accident on a one to one bases and determine what caused each
>accident. Even the cases were wings came off, what was the
>circumstance?
>There is not a airplane out there that you can't tear a wing off from
>if it is flown outside of the design limits.
>
Jerry's statement above says it all in my opinion.
Choosing a kit plane to build is a very personal decision and should be
considered carefully. Though making a proper choice should also include
some serious research on the subject airplane kit being considered. Not
just listening to what is available in the rumor mill (or sometimes in
the perported to be unbiased kit airplane magazines).
I can only assume that the original post was partially a result some info
published recently in one of the kit airplane magazines. The problem is
(and it seems to happen more often than not) is that without considering
all of the available info, the store can appear much different than it
really is.
I don't know off hand any of the specific statistics, but I do know that
over the years Van has personally inspected a large majority (if not all)
of the RV-3's that have been involved in wing failure accidents, and a
large portion of them had some type of construction error that may or may
not have contributed to the accident. I think their was 1 or 2 that had
major errors that very likely were a contributing factor in the accident.
Aside from that we are quite confident that no RV-3 has ever had a wing
failure that happened without the pilot likely exceeding the 6 G limit
for the aircraft.
Van can only sell a kit with instructions on how to build it. It is
impossible to sell a kit with a requirement on how to fly it.
- - - Stepping on the soap box - - -
With the amount of time that I have now been involved with RV's and the
whole kitplane movement in general, there is one thing that has always
disturbed me.
We as a society in the U.S.A. (and maybe in many other countries as well)
complain about our government passing laws to protect us from ourselves,
and every other little danger that crosses our path through our life
time. And most people will agree that big government should let people
be a little more responsible for there actions (regardless of what laws
they want to pass, you can't protect people from there own foolishness by
passing another law).
So now we look at the kitplane business.
A designer designs an airplane and then sells kits with the stipulation
that there is particular performance parameters that you must stay within
to fly it safely. A customer excepts that as being reasonable and
chooses to build one of the kits. He crashes the airplane because he
flew outside of the stated parameters, he is killed, his estate sues the
kit company, and many of the other kit customers cry fowl and want an
explanation.
I still have a difficult time understanding the logic in this, but that
is just the way it is I guess.
This scenario has put more than one kit company out of business over the
years. Even though the successfully defended there cases in court (Only
the lawyers won).
- - - Getting off of the soap box now - - -
So as Jerry mentioned, look at the cases individually (even with the
current concern about the gear legs) and when armed with all the facts,
then make a decision.
BTW... I have no explanation for the most recent nose gear failure but I
can tell you that Van's original blue RV-6A prototype (old blue) now has
over 2300 hrs on it, has been based off of a grass strip its whole life,
and I would bet a years salary that it has more takeoffs and landings per
flying hour than any other RV-6A in existence (it was flown on approx 60
- 70 demo rides at Oshkosh using about 20 hours of flight time).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Question... |
Larry Olson wrote:
>
>
> I know a guy with a 0-320 A2A that was going to be put in a project
> Decathlon. He sold the project and now will sell the engine. The engine was
> running when it came out of the Tri Pacer, but there are no logs. Has a
> conical mount. Wide deck. It has an oil cooler, carb, starter, and
> alternator, but no mags. He'll throw in the engine stand, manuals, a
> FlightComm 2 place panel mount intercom and some other misc stuff all for
> $3000.00.
> I've know the guy for many years. He was my A&P.
> Is this a good deal? Even if just a core? Looking for advice.
>
> Thanks...
>
> Larry Olson
> RV6 - just closed the left wing!!!
> Cave Creek, AZ
>
If it came out of a presumably flying (certified) Tri-Pacer, why no logs?
I guess I'd be a little leery, but for $3000 it might not be a bad deal.
Just my thoughts.
Scott
--
Gotta Fly or
Gonna Die !
--Ask me about my
Aeronca Super Chief--
amended 8-29-97: Now after feeling the "Need for Speed", building an
RV-4!
Tail kit arrived!! Somewhat regretfully, the Super Chief is now for
sale. $8500 :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Nose Gear Failures on 6A's |
Good decision, and please post your results. they will help prevent
others from having the same problems I've had....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com [SMTP:Vanremog(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 09, 1998 10:21 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose Gear Failures on 6A's
>
>
>
> << I plan to inspect my gear leg at the next oil
> change and will post my results. It would be very helpful if
> everyone
> would do the same. >>
>
> I'm planning to do the removal and dye penetrant test on N1GV at her
> first
> condition inspection in Feb 1999 and expect to have about 200+ hrs of
> landing
> on tarmac.
>
> -GV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
>>There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
>>fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I
thought
>>the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
>>collapses, is no confidence builder.
>>I have just completed the top skin on the fuselage, and would hate to
>>think that
>>I am bulding the wrong kit. Wondering what must rv8 builders must be
>>thinking??
I actually did quite an investigation prior to purchasing my kit. I did
not seriously consider the RV until this investigation. I know I'll get
flamed for this but I wanted to build a composite airplane (that shall
remain nameless).
The 6 has quite an incredible safety record. I felt like adding "when
taking into account the numbers flying", but in actuality even if there
were only 100 flying it would in my opinion be incredible. The thing
that I looked very closely at prior to my purchase was the fatality
rate. I was only able to find four RV6/6A fatalities in their database.
I did this a while back and I do drink a lot so my recollection may be
somewhat faded, but as I recall there were two midair's, one drug
related night mishap, and a visit from Mr. Iceman. Part of my reasons
for not building the RV8 as well as several other kitbuilts was that
there was simply not enough historical data for me feel comfortable
with. If the NTSB database can be believed, and I do, it would appear
that the 6 has not had a single fatality related to a design problem.
Now I know losing the brakes and parking it in the trees is not
something that can be totally ignored, but as long as I can walk away
and build again, ...
Yes, the hairs on the back of my neck raise every time I hear about some
poor soul that rolls his/her 6 into a ball with less than 100 hours on
it, but by the grace of god walks away from it. Or after spending many
years and a lot of sacrifice in terms of family and friends only to have
a hangar or tornado smash it flat, but still I stand behind my decision.
Just my humble opinion,
Gary Fesenbek
Ronaoke, VA
RV6A, yes okay I'm still on the canopy!
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A windshield molding strip |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Anyone used the windshield molding strip that's in Van's latest Accessories
>Catalog? It sounds like a good alternative to fiberglass.
>
>There's no picture in the catalog. I assume it's aluminum with a certain
>amount of shaping already done.
It's fiberglass. Everyone's windshield is going to be different. On my
tip-up it did not come close to working. I had to mold in place.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Wiring & FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | WILSON, NC FLY IN |
EAA Chapter 1047
Wilson, NC Fly In (W03)
September 12, 1998
Seminars, Workshops, Displays, and Events
Judging of aircraft (antique, classic, contemporary, experimental, war birds,
and ultra-lights)
Organized Fly-By's
Pancakes and Sausage 7:00 - 10:00
Bar-B-Que Chicken 12:00 - 2:00
Airplane Rides 8:00 - 6:00
We would like to have as many RV's there as possible. There should be at
least 2 flying RV-8's there!
Regards,
Louis Smith
RV-8 N801RV
lousmith(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mack, Don" <DMack(at)tuthill.com> |
Are you missing a zero on your prices? $1700/$1900?
Don Mack
RV-6A Fuselage, ready to order $1900 engine
Listers,
i too saw this engine at Oshkosh,and it looked like a dream come true.
Superior's version of the 180 Hp O360 in kit form is expected to list at
under $1700. Assembled it was to be priced at under $1900. The engine was
suppose to be available in a 190Hp carb'ed version, as well (for these
prices) as well as an injected version for an additional $2000. All in
All this seems to be a reasonable cost to me. It will be available from
XP Industries. Contact Ray Scott at XP Industries at (817)-540-6500 for
more details.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Lightspeed Electronic Ignition |
>The Lightspeed system takes piston position information (for timing) from a
pair
>of transducers mounted on a plate attached to the front of the engine, right
>behind the prop hub.
Tim,
Just curious why you chose that pickup over the mag hole setup.
Joel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | More OSH (AirVenture) tales. |
Listers,
Just got back to work and 400 RV-list e-mails. Might get some work done
tomorrow :-)
Arrived at Oshkosh Friday morning. Stood by the airplane for most of
Friday and Saturday. Lost my voice from over use, explaining how I did
my landing lights.
My flying partner and I were planning on leaving Monday morning for the
west coast and possibly Alaska. On Sunday afternoon some judges stopped
by and gave me a note that I was selected for some award and should be
at the awards ceremony Monday night. So, we stayed and I was presented
with an outstanding workmanship award. I have had to modify the canopy
to fit my new swelled head. My headset won't fit either.
On Tuesday we tried to depart but were turned back at the runway due to
deteriorating weather. Didn't get out of OSH until noon Wednesday. With
2 1/2 days used up we just came home through really hazy air.
Reflections :
The new AirVenture logo is just plain "plain". Placing last years beer
mug with this years mug really highlights how ugly it is. Its the kind
of thing you would expect for a couple of million dollars from a high
end Chicago advert firm.
Would like to find the person who stepped on my freshly painted wheel
pant with their muddy shoes. Yes, the paint is scratched right down to
the primer.
Cost of food and drink has gone beyond unreasonable to just sick.
Loved talking to all the Rv'ers. The RV parking was so far away from the
main gate that it was just the hard core people that made it down there.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV (now new and improved with an award)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
In a message dated 8/8/98 11:02:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
n255gh(at)frontiernet.net writes:
<< There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
fatal. You have the wings coming off the rv3, and now the rv8. I thought
the RV6A was a sound aircraft. Now to find out that the landing gear
collapses, is no confidence builder. >>
Yes, by all means, sell your kit. While you're at it sell your car, I hear
they sometimes crash too. Be sure to put rubber floors in you house because
you don't want to slip and fall. Stay in bed on Mondays, I hear most people
have fatal accidents on Mondays. Has your safety guarantee run-out? Better
call your lawyer and the federal government to have it renewed for another
year.
RV's and Cessna's have the same accident and fatal accident rate! If this is
unacceptable to you get out of aviation. I'ts way to dangerous.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Props |
OK after 150 hours I am ready to bite the bullet. Instead of building an
new RV-8 I have decided to "upgrade" the -4 with a constant speed prop and
180hp engine.
The engine search now begins and I have all the info needed to determine
what engine will or won't work in the -4. But when it comes to props I have
been unable to find a similar "decoder ring" to decipher Hartzell's
numbering scheme. The archives asy "get a Mooney prop"...
Does anyone have more info on whcih models are appropriate? Any wisdom on
Hartzell vs. McCauley, Hartzel governors vs. Woodward?
I'm not gonna start this until I have all the parts as I don't want to be
down forever so I am starting to look now.
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Props |
Bob:when you get all the info on the installation put it on the web so we can
archive it...Have a 4 and am considering a Superior XP-360---Jim Brown-NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Walsh, John" <JWalsh1(at)unifi.com> |
> . I was only able to find four RV6/6A fatalities in their database.
>
>
[Walsh, John]
Gary,
I won't dispute your conclusions but you have to watch those online
databases. When I did some reseach on Citabrias, I was comforted to find
that no Citabria had ever been in any kind of accident prior to 1992 ( or
thereabouts ). It also appeared that none were built before about 1972.
This was less comforting since the one I was flying was built in 1963.
I'm pretty sure the data was a bit inaccurate.
John in N.H., back from vaca and starting a new job.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
First, I wanted to thank everyone who replied to my dimple size question.
I appreciate all the help.
So far, I've assembled the rear spar on the horizontal stabilizer, and I
have to admit, it is fun as hell. I can see how some people build 2 or
more RVs. While I have only completed a small portion of the work, I
think I am going to really enjoy this. I would recommend to anyone
thinking about building to just go ahead and order the tail kit. I'm
probably about as inexperienced as you can be in building, and so far,
none of the skills required seem to be anything you can't learn with a
little practice and studying of the plans. One other point.. I had the
preview plans and when I received them, was a bit disappointed. I thought
it was beyond me (what is all this dimpling, deburring, etc???), but when
the tail kit and tools arrived, it was much easier to visualize the
instructions with the parts in front of you.
I ordered both the A and B portions of the Avery RV tool-kits and have no
complaints. I can't imagine doing this without a full set of good tools.
I had a few, hopefully simple questions...
1. Any tips on fabricating the HS810 and HS814? Is a band-saw the best
way to cut this to size? Looking ahead, what about the rudder stiffners?
2. I've made a few small scratches on my parts, mostly from a tool
slipping, etc. They all are surface level, or seem to scratch away only
the top layer of aluminum. How concerned should I be? Should I just
polish these out? Being new to this, I'm trying to be overly cautious at
first. My feeling is that these scratches should not be a problem, they
can just be sanded away.
3. When deburring (I have the Avery speed deburring tool), should I apply
much pressure? Should material come out? My deburring so far has removed
a small bit of material and the hole looks shiny from the top. If I run
my fingers over it, it feels smooth. I have been applying light pressure
and about 3 turns.
Thanks
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "'Vejita' S. Cousin" <scousin(at)u.washington.edu> |
| Subject: | Newbie question [building time] |
I know tis must be asked to death but I looked through the archives and
couldn't seem to find an answer.
I'm considering building a RV-6a next summer (this is my research
year). I have the est build time from the Van's homepage but I've
learned/heard not to put to much faith in them :)
My question is for a first time builder, that can only work on his
plane in the evenings and weekends (of which I'm sure there are many on
this list) how long does it actually take to complete just the 4 kits (I
know that engine, instruments, etc. vary from plane to plane).
And I no one minds me asking, but why did you choose to build a RV?
I really like the RV-6a but I'm also considering some other kits (once
again this is my 'research year').
Thanks in Advance
Sydney L. Cousin, Jr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | size of three blade prop |
What is the limiting factors for the size of a constant speed prop? Is it
mainly ground clearance and the ability to turn full RPM? I am building an
RV-8 and have a chance for a 3-blade prop off a C-210 (80 inches) I think
it can safely be shortened by three inches. What do the rest of you think?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(717)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
<< I have no explanation for the most recent nose gear failure but I
can tell you that Van's original blue RV-6A prototype (old blue) now has
over 2300 hrs on it, has been based off of a grass strip its whole life,
and I would bet a years salary that it has more takeoffs and landings per
flying hour than any other RV-6A in existence (it was flown on approx 60
- 70 demo rides at Oshkosh using about 20 hours of flight time). >>
Is the factory going to inspect the nose gear in light of Fred Stucken's
recent failure? It would help all of us to get a clearer view of things,
since we often hear bad news more than good news. I hope that you will and
that it gets a clean bill of heath.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mack, Don" <DMack(at)tuthill.com> |
| Subject: | Newbie question [building time] |
My brother and I have been working 6 years on a 6A. Have just ordered the
finishing kit.
We have put in about 1300 hours so far. Figure we are 2-3 years away. Over
the six years there have been two new kids (those project take less initial
time but the final product eats up a lot of time) My brother also built a
new house, so we were down 4+ months for the move and setting up a new shop.
We are lucky if we can put in 4-6 hours a week. We purchased items where we
could (fuel tanks and spar).
I think that you can count on at least 2000 hours and divided 2000/hours per
week and see where it puts you.
As for choosing the 6A. We had looked at planes at OSH for years and
couldn't find a better cost-performance kit.
Don Mack
RV-6A
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
My question is for a first time builder, that can only work on his
plane in the evenings and weekends (of which I'm sure there are many on
this list) how long does it actually take to complete just the 4 kits (I
know that engine, instruments, etc. vary from plane to plane).
And I no one minds me asking, but why did you choose to build a RV?
I really like the RV-6a but I'm also considering some other kits (once
again this is my 'research year').
Thanks in Advance
Sydney L. Cousin, Jr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Props |
Please reply to the list. This is something I would like to know too.
Steve Soule
RV-6A fuselage
-----Original Message-----... when it comes to props I
have
been unable to find a similar "decoder ring" to decipher
Hartzell's
numbering scheme. The archives asy "get a Mooney
prop"...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Gesele <tgesele(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Dimple Die Question |
Listers,
I was wondering on the pros/cons of using the Cleavland tank
dimple dies for dimpling the substructure rather than the 3/32"
dies. On the surface, it would seem it would allow the skin to
seat better, but are there any potential problems with doing this?
Thanks,
Tom Gesele
RV-6, Emp on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lschuler(at)cellular.uscc.com |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
Robert L. Nuckolls wrote:
>>There was an article in kitplanes a few months back about how to build
>>your own strobes with stuff you can buy at radio shack. It was the issue
>>with the Lancair on the cover, I can get the date if anyone is
>>interested. The article raved about how easy they were to see.
>I've seen many articles over the years on do-it-yourself strobes.
>Please understand that the maximum light output that can be
>expected from any strobe, amateur built or otherwise is a
>function of the energy storage capacitor and the voltage to which
>it is charged between flashes. The formula is:
>Energy (joules) = Voltage Squared * Capacitance (farads)/2
>snip
I recall the article as well. If memory serves (no garantees), the writer
did NOT use flash tubes and capacitor discharge.
Was a seemingly simple method of using 50 Watt Halogen bulb switched on and
off via simple 555 timer and, if I remember correctly, a power FET.
Drawback in my mind would be the heat of 50 Watts through the FET. Duty
cycle would make it cooler and a heat sink would certainly be required.
The bulbs come in a number of 12 volt flavors from low voltage
track-lighting to H-3 auto headlight bulbs. Also available in lesser or
greater wattage ratings.
Sure seemed like a simple solution to the very high cost of flash tubes and
capacitor discharge power supplies; hombuilt or store-bought.
Might be worth investigating. I have no way of determining the lumens
(candlepower) output of these things. Anyone know if such an animal would
meet the FAA requirements for visibility?
Larry Schuler MK-IV plans #500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
>> I won't dispute your conclusions but you have to watch
those online
>>databases.
No doubt. Plus there are a number of RV6s flying outside the
country where accidents with these don't get reported as well. I think
it is the Nigerian Airforce that has quite a few of the 6A. There is
not one 6A crash in there from those guys.
Hey you're not the John Walsh from America's Most Wanted are
you?
;^)
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Ronaoke, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Listers,
As posted earlier, I have sent the broken front gear leg parts back
to Van's for analysis, with a request for a copy of the test results
when they are available. In the mean time, if other -6A flyers could do
a dye check and/or magniflux checks on there nose wheels, we might all
benefit from their results. I highly recommend this as, at first glance,
my gear leg failure was due to a "classic" cracking overstress failure.
(The fact that it was almost 1/2 the diameter of the leg says something
about my normal landings!) If I had know to look for such a problem, It
would have been part of my yearly "conditional Inspection".
The question is, why did the crack form in the first place?
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanremog(at)aol.com [SMTP:Vanremog(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Monday, August 10, 1998 11:47 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: second thoughts
>
>
>
><< I have no explanation for the most recent nose gear failure but I
> can tell you that Van's original blue RV-6A prototype (old blue) now has
> over 2300 hrs on it, has been based off of a grass strip its whole life,
> and I would bet a years salary that it has more takeoffs and landings per
> flying hour than any other RV-6A in existence (it was flown on approx 60
> - 70 demo rides at Oshkosh using about 20 hours of flight time). >>
>
>Is the factory going to inspect the nose gear in light of Fred Stucken's
>recent failure? It would help all of us to get a clearer view of things,
>since we often hear bad news more than good news. I hope that you will and
>that it gets a clean bill of heath.
>
>-GV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Several of you have complained to me of suffering withdrawal pains (or
maybe it was the pepperoni pizza) due to the latest page of my fuse
construction log not being available for the past couple of days.
Your health should return soon. The glitch has been fixed. I hit the
disk storage quota for my account and page five of my fuse log got blown
away by the server last time I tried to update.
Since I have now promised to pay the ISP more money each month, they
have decided that we can have "The RV Journal" back in its entirety.
Thanks for your continued interest. Now let's get back to hammering
rivets.
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question [building time] |
<< My question is for a first time builder, that can only work on his
plane in the evenings and weekends (of which I'm sure there are many on
this list) how long does it actually take to complete just the 4 kits (I
know that engine, instruments, etc. vary from plane to plane). >>
RV journal SAm Buchanan
look at Sam's site to get some ideas. How many hours are you willing to work a
week and how handy are you with your hands? Once we know this then we can give
you a SWAG of how long it takes.
Bernie Kerr, 6A fuselage, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Joe:
Is a band-saw the best way to cut this to size?
I wish I had a bandsaw. It would make life a lot
easier. I use a hacksaw to do all of my cutting. Sometimes it is
excruciating!
When deburring (I have the Avery speed deburring tool),
should I apply
much pressure? Should material come out? My deburring
so far has removed
a small bit of material and the hole looks shiny from
the top. If I run
my fingers over it, it feels smooth. I have been
applying light pressure
and about 3 turns.
I sent Van's the same question when I started. They
told me that beginners often remove too much material. The goal is to
remove the burrs, not to countersink the hole. As for the number of
turns, it takes as much as it takes. I don't think you can generalize.
Steve Soule
RV-6A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question [building time] |
vans has come along way since the earlier kits, i built the entire emp kit in
1 1/2 weeks, thats after work and on weekends, since i have the wing kit, i
already have 2 flaps done, 2 ailerons done, bulkhead assembly done, just
been 2 weeks so far. just working afteroons 3-4 hours and a good weekend.
these times include priming. if the rest of the kit goes this fast, and
looking at the rest of the wing kit , it will .
as far as deciding which aircraft to build, get a ride in a rv6a and you tell
me. the rv grin department really exist, still wearing mine since sun n fun
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Site glitches |
sam
we should all pitch in for your site cost, it has helped me tremendously, if
ever your in tampa i owe you a nice lunch !!!
scott winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
<< I have no way of determining the lumens
(candlepower) output of these things (homemade anti-collision lighting).
Anyone know if such an animal would
meet the FAA requirements for visibility? >>
Sadly there are no such requirements, as we have learned recently thru various
contacts with the FAA. The intensity, coverage, color, etc. rquirements in
FAR23 do not apply to aircraft certificated in the Experimental category,
unless they are specifically invoked by your "Operating Limitations" issued by
the FAA inspector (or DAR) which accompany your Airworthiness Certificate.
So, in short, you can do whatever your individual inspector approves.
-GV
ngements/sizes are avail (F, L, R and N)
1 = non-feathering, 2 = feathering, 3 = non-feathering counterweighted
B = undefined
F = strengthened pitch change system
76 = starting blade blank diameter inches
66A= Design Number
4 = diameter reduction inches (from starting blank)
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Lightspeed Electronic Ignition |
> Just curious why you chose that pickup over the mag hole setup.
I asked Klaus about this once, he told me that the up-front location
of the sensor yielded much more accurate timing information
than the mag drive due to crankshaft flex and lash, etc. I also
asked the late engine guru Everett Hatch about this once and he agreed.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
>I recall the article as well. If memory serves (no garantees), the writer
>did NOT use flash tubes and capacitor discharge.
>
>Was a seemingly simple method of using 50 Watt Halogen bulb switched on and
>off via simple 555 timer and, if I remember correctly, a power FET.
This would be a clone of the AeroFlash incandescant fixtures used
on thousands of Cessnas since about 1967. I was at Cessna when the
roating beacon was being replaced with the flashing incandescant
lamp . . . wasn't impressed. The fade-in-fade-out characteristic
of the filament lamp was (IMHO) less attention getting than the
sharp pulse of light you got from the rotating mirror assembly
of then popular 36 watt beacons. Further, the lamp used then
(and still) is 150 watts . . . about 12+ amps!!!! We had to add
a resistor to the system so that when the lamp was off, we were
dumping an equivalent amount of power into the resistor to make
the load on the system more constant . . . pulsing of the panel
lights at night would drive you nuts.
>Drawback in my mind would be the heat of 50 Watts through the FET. Duty
>cycle would make it cooler and a heat sink would certainly be required.
No problem these days. Power FET's with .007 ohms on resistance
are quite common. A 12-amp load makes these devices disipate
only 1 watt! Easily handled with very small heatsink. A feature
of one of our turn-key wiring kits will inlcude solid state relays
for nav, landing, taxi lites and pitot heat . . . no heavy currents
through panel mounted switches.
>The bulbs come in a number of 12 volt flavors from low voltage
>track-lighting to H-3 auto headlight bulbs. Also available in lesser or
>greater wattage ratings.
>
>Might be worth investigating. I have no way of determining the lumens
>(candlepower) output of these things. Anyone know if such an animal would
>meet the FAA requirements for visibility?
Given that FAR23 requirements do not apply to amateur built
airplanes, I think a 150W halogen lamp pertched on top
of your vertical fin under a baby food jar might impress
your inspector enough to get you signed off. You have
a strong precedent in the Cessna experience. Plan on
needing the dummy load to keep the system voltage from
pulsing when this size lamp is flashed.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeff sedlock <jlock(at)centuryinter.net> |
My hobby time has all but disappeared, and I have not touched my project for a
year now. I though I better try to pass it on before something happens to it.
I have the tail group done. The metal work on the right wing is done, with the
left still in the jig. Phlogiston spar, BAC deluxe wing kit, BAC firewall, BAC
leading edge lights. My work has been approved of a couple of times at different
stages by a multiple builder (Lyel Hefel).
My questions to the list are what is a reasonable amount to ask for my tail and
wing kit, and where is the best place to advertise?
Thanks
jeff sedlock
jlock(at)centuryinter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
I bought a low time O-320-E2D just like I had in my PA140 but this one
came from a Cessna 172 and the fuel pump mounting pad has not even
been machined. How is the best way to handle this ? Can it be machined ?
Where ? Look for a used one from Aircraft salvage yard ? Any salvage
yards you recommend. Thanks for any Info.
Wayne Bonesteel
RV-4 Canopy finished but the front skin lifted up
and looks Ugly. :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
In a message dated 8/9/98 1:57:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< There has been 136 RV accidents with Van's aircraft. Of which 49 were
>fatal. You have the wings coming off the RV-3, and now the RV-8. I
thought >>
While you were checking this stat, did you check to see how many accidents
there were with other aircraft, such as the Cessna 172 ? The true test is
accidents per 1,000 flight hours, and I would bet without looking that Van's
designs are as good or better than 90% of the homebuilts with more than a few
of the type flying.
The wings don't come off ANY airplane in straight and level flight, and such
is the case in the RV-3. The RV-8....... we'll have to wait and see.
Flying is, by nature, dangerous. You can't eliminate the dangers, so you must
minimize them to the greatest degree possible. I for one have no qualms about
these little airplanes, they are built STRONG. If you want to compare, look at
the structure of a Zodiac. It is a nice little plane, but is nowhere near as
beefy as an RV.
My .$02 worth - for what it's worth
Regards Merle (4.3 Chevy RV-4 flyin' in '99) Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Newbie question [building time] |
> I'm considering building a RV-6a next summer (this is my research
>year). I have the est build time from the Van's homepage but I've
>learned/heard not to put to much faith in them :)
IF vans says its going to rain, better take your coat.
> My question is for a first time builder, that can only work on his
>plane in the evenings and weekends (of which I'm sure there are many
>on this list) how long does it actually take to complete just the 4 kits
>(I know that engine, instruments, etc. vary from plane to plane).
I got 700 ( 1/2 way thru the fuselage.) I only count working time. Plan
on 4x for thinking & 1x for the RV-List. Better find a bucking buddy,
Some things take two warm bodys.
> Sydney L. Cousin, Jr.
>
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>
><< I have no way of determining the lumens
> (candlepower) output of these things (homemade anti-collision lighting).
>Anyone know if such an animal would
> meet the FAA requirements for visibility? >>
>
>Sadly there are no such requirements, as we have learned recently thru various
>contacts with the FAA. The intensity, coverage, color, etc. rquirements in
>FAR23 do not apply to aircraft certificated in the Experimental category,
Happily, there are no such requirements.
Experimental aircraft do not have to comply with FAR 23 unless you want to.
We can be governed by common sense, not federal mandate. Who decided what
level of brightness was "safe", anyway? We could all wear rotating
searchlights and _really_ be "safe".
>unless they are specifically invoked by your "Operating Limitations" issued by
>the FAA inspector (or DAR) which accompany your Airworthiness Certificate.
>
>So, in short, you can do whatever your individual inspector approves.
In short, you can do whatever you want and your individual inspector has
to "approve" - as long as you are registered experimental.
Build your own strobes - then walk down the street and see if you can see
them. Adjust as necessary for your comfort level.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp, wings on the waaayyy!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Terra NAV/COM/GS for sale |
FOR SALE
Terra TXN960 Nav/Com/GC/CDI
This is an all-in-one box that includes Com and precision Nav and
CDI. Integral CDI will also take CDI input from a GPS or Loran.
Includes VOR/GS antenna splitter, tray and manual. Recently checked
out OK at a reputable avionics shop.
Price $1100.
Please send replies privately to
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael L. Weller" <midibu(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
>
>
><< I have no way of determining the lumens
> (candlepower) output of these things (homemade anti-collision lighting).
>Anyone know if such an animal would
> meet the FAA requirements for visibility? >>
>
>Sadly there are no such requirements,
Sadly? Don't you mean gladly!
I mean, if it looks bright when it flashes, well I guess it serves its
purpose.
again from GV:
> as we have learned recently thru various
>contacts with the FAA. The intensity, coverage, color, etc. rquirements in
>FAR23 do not apply to aircraft certificated in the Experimental category,
>unless they are specifically invoked by your "Operating Limitations"
issued by
>the FAA inspector (or DAR) which accompany your Airworthiness Certificate.
>
>So, in short, you can do whatever your individual inspector approves.
>
>-GV
>
Or, to be more to the point, what the builder finds appropriate. Upon
inspection time I would think it reasonable to turn on the strobe and ask
him something like "That thing sure is bright, ain't it?".
When he gets flash image out of his eyes, he'll agree.
Mike
Mike Weller
midibu(at)mindspring.com (preferred) or michael.l.weller(at)lmco.com
RV-8 (under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NO FUEL PUMP |
Get another Accesoried case, you will also need ddifferent mag drive gear
for Left mag that has cam for pump actuator rod, and the pump actuator rod.
I have an E2D and had to do the same although my case was machined for the
pump but I needed internal parts....
>
>I bought a low time O-320-E2D just like I had in my PA140 but this one
>came from a Cessna 172 and the fuel pump mounting pad has not even
>been machined. How is the best way to handle this ? Can it be machined ?
>Where ? Look for a used one from Aircraft salvage yard ? Any salvage
>yards you recommend. Thanks for any Info.
>
>Wayne Bonesteel
>RV-4 Canopy finished but the front skin lifted up
>and looks Ugly. :(
>
>
>
>
>
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
Just a thought, and might not be worth the extra complexity, but how about
a starter master switch??
Paul Bilodeau
RV-6A Horizontal Stabilizer, still......
----------
> From: Frankzip(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck starter contactors . . .
> Date: Saturday, August 08, 1998 11:56 AM
>
>
> Had a starter solonoid engage in flight about 20-30 min after takeoff
while on
> an ILS approach in MVFR/IFR. First indication was the radios went to
heck. I
> don't think there is any shielding on a starter as they are not normally
used
> in flight. The starter was probably running for 5-6 min befor we landed
and
> shut down. A couple of the screws holding one end on were pretty loose,
don't
> think the starter would have kept running for a lot longer. The expert
repair
> action by an A+P was to hit the solonoid with a hammer.If this ever
happens to
> you just turn off the master, of course then you have no radios, comm,
elect
> flaps, etc.
>
> Frank, RV8 ,Kansas City,empennage, practicing riviting,gathering courage
to
> start riviting for good.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question [building time] |
> My question is for a first time builder, that can only work on his
> plane in the evenings and weekends (of which I'm sure there are many on
> this list) how long does it actually take to complete just the 4 kits (I
> know that engine, instruments, etc. vary from plane to plane).
I've tried to answer this (amongst other FAQs) in my "Bunny's Guide to
RV Building", available via
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm>. The short answer is: it
depends. I find I spend about 50 hours per month building -- that
includes most evenings and weekends. If you have less/no outside
interests and someone who'll cook/clean/mow the lawns for you, you
should be able to do more. Estimating a total of 3,000 hours to
complete, that means 60 months or 5 years. FWIW, Vans says the average
build time is 2.5 years. I guess there must be a lot of retired guys
working on their planes full time.
> And I no one minds me asking, but why did you choose to build a RV?
Also answered (more or less) in the Bunny's Guide.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NO FUEL PUMP |
Call the guys at divco buy a push rod and a gear with a cam on it and your in
business
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Nguyen <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | second thoughts -Reply |
Fred,
I am sorry to hear about your incident and hope that there are much to
learn from this. This is sound like a typical fracture failure case from the
engineering standpoint. The initial flaw (crack) may already exist on the
gear when you receive it from the manufacturer and you not knowing
about it. This crack may have been introduced to the gear during
manufacturing and/or during the process of shipping it to you.
The flaw size could be small initially and then when subjected to the
operational loads (landing, taxi and etc..) , it growth until it reach its
"critical length" and failure will soon follow. I would not consider this as
a "classic OVERSTRESS failure" case.
Lesson learned from this is that I will inspect my gears using dyn pen
and/or magna flux prior to final installation. I know that I would not like
for this to happen to me. My opinion on this is that the gear design is
sound and will have no problem of flying my RV-6A when it is complete.
When you receive the test results back from Van's, please post it to the
list so everyone can learn from it.
T.Nguyen, P.E
Analysis Engineering Manager.
RV-6A Fuselage
>>> "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" 08/10/98
11:29am >>>
Listers,
As posted earlier, I have sent the broken front gear leg parts back
to Van's for analysis, with a request for a copy of the test results
when they are available. In the mean time, if other -6A flyers could do
a dye check and/or magniflux checks on there nose wheels, we might all
benefit from their results. I highly recommend this as, at first glance,
my gear leg failure was due to a "classic" cracking overstress failure.
(The fact that it was almost 1/2 the diameter of the leg says something
about my normal landings!) If I had know to look for such a problem, It
would have been part of my yearly "conditional Inspection".
The question is, why did the crack form in the first place?
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cheryl Sanchez <csanchez(at)avici.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
>
>Just a thought, and might not be worth the extra complexity, but how about
>a starter master switch??
>
>Paul Bilodeau
>RV-6A Horizontal Stabilizer, still......
>
Don't laugh, I essentially did this on my panel. I added
an avionics master switch and made it a double-pole, double-throw
switch. When the avionics master is in the off position, one side
of the switch powers the starter switch. When in the on position,
the other side powers the avionics bus. This way I must turn off
the power to the radios to start the engine. Turning on the radios
cuts off power to the starter.
Cheryl Sanchez
RV6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | AeroElectric Connection Turn Key Wiring Kits |
Bob Nuckolls,
In a recent post you mentioned...
" A feature of one of our turn-key wiring kits will include solid state
relays
for nav, landing, taxi lights and pitot heat . . . no heavy currents
through panel mounted switches."
What are these kits? What do they include? How much do they cost?
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question [building time] |
Solution:
Buy a Quickbuild! For $5000 more, you can save yourself at least half the
construction time, and twice the learning curve time....if your time is
worth anything to you, it WILL pay for itself, trust me! Not to mention,
the workmanship is excellent...
I have about 200 building hours (not including thinking and research) into
mine, and I am just about to the finish kit...I figure another 500 hours of
canopy, panel, gear, interior, etc....
Total construction should be 1 1/2 years....
Good luck with your decision! Any decision will definately satisfy any
desires and goals you have ever had!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Waiting on Finish Kit!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
In a message dated 8/10/98 6:02:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com writes:
<< I know I'll get
flamed for this but I wanted to build a composite airplane (that shall
remain nameless). >>
Gary
Have you possibly considered seeking a good professional counselor??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
> Just a thought, and might not be worth the extra complexity, but how about
> a starter master switch??
You'll probably have the starter on a fuse or a circuit breaker,
right? (the wire that activates the solenoid, not the #2 wire to the
starter!) If it you make the fuse/cb accessable, you should be able
to pull it if the light goes on. That's what I'm doing.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
<< ><< I have no way of determining the lumens
> (candlepower) output of these things (homemade anti-collision lighting).
>Anyone know if such an animal would
> meet the FAA requirements for visibility? >>
>
>Sadly there are no such requirements,
Sadly? Don't you mean gladly!
I mean, if it looks bright when it flashes, well I guess it serves its
purpose. >>
No, I meant actually meant "tragically". It just boggles my mind that anyone
would state, with pride no less, that they have knowingly selected and
installed a substandard aviation safety related item.
Now if that person had claimed that they used aluminum sheet (because it was
lighter and easier to drill) for the firewall, some old back pack straps
(because they were already in hand) for the seatbelts and hardware store bolts
(because they were readily available) for the spar fastenings or bicycle
cables (because they were cheaper) for the throttle/prop/mixture, the sane
person would correctly label this as needlessly foolish.
Yet the aforementioned items merely contribute to the subject aircraft being
less safe. In the use of substandard lighting, not only the subject aircraft
but another properly equipped aircraft may suffer (as in collide) due to the
poor visiblity of the former.
IMO, when one selects articles related aircraft safety, the "bean counter" hat
should definitely be left in the wardrobe.
But then that's just my opinion,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Lightspeed Electronic Ignition |
On 10 Aug 98, at 9:20, AB320FLYER(at)aol.com wrote:
> Tim,
> Just curious why you chose that pickup over the mag hole setup.
$450 price difference (for the Hall effect device that mounts where the mag was),
plus the timing accuracy that Randall mentioned.
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
<< ><< I have no way of determining the lumens
> (candlepower) output of these things (homemade anti-collision lighting).
>Anyone know if such an animal would
> meet the FAA requirements for visibility? >>
>
>Sadly there are no such requirements,
Sadly? Don't you mean gladly!
I mean, if it looks bright when it flashes, well I guess it serves its
purpose. >>
No, I meant actually meant "tragically". It just boggles my mind that anyone
would state, with pride no less, that they have knowingly selected and
installed a substandard aviation safety related item.
Now if that person had claimed that they used aluminum sheet (because it was
lighter and easier to drill) for the firewall, some old back pack straps
(because they were already in hand) for the seatbelts and hardware store bolts
(because they were readily available) for the spar fastenings or bicycle
cables (because they were cheaper) for the throttle/prop/mixture, the sane
person would correctly label this as needlessly foolish.
Yet the aforementioned items merely contribute to the subject aircraft being
less safe. In the use of substandard lighting, not only the subject aircraft
but another properly equipped aircraft may suffer (as in collide) due to the
poor visiblity of the former.
IMO, when one selects articles related aircraft safety, the "bean counter" hat
should definitely be left in the wardrobe.
But then that's just my opinion,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> Plan on
> needing the dummy load to keep the system voltage from
> pulsing when this size lamp is flashed.
Or you could have two lamps - one on when the other is off.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fourazjs" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Some questions |
Joe, Didn't you get the George Orndorff tape w/ the tail kit? If not, get
it. It has a lot of good info and tips.
>1. Any tips on fabricating the HS810 and HS814? Is a band-saw the best
>way to cut this to size? Looking ahead, what about the rudder stiffners?
I used a hack saw and a jig saw clamped upside down in a vise for the
angles. Then get a vixen file to get to final shape. For the stiffeners,
use your right and left airplane snips.
>
>
>3. When deburring (I have the Avery speed deburring tool), should I apply
>much pressure? Should material come out? My deburring so far has removed
>a small bit of material and the hole looks shiny from the top. If I run
>my fingers over it, it feels smooth. I have been applying light pressure
>and about 3 turns.
Sounds about right. You don't want to remove a lot of material.
Good luck and I'm glad you're enjoying it. It is fun!!
Jeff Farrar, RV8A Empennage complete, Patiently??! waiting for QB,
Chandler, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
<< In short, you can do whatever you want and your individual inspector has
to "approve" - as long as you are registered experimental.
Build your own strobes - then walk down the street and see if you can see
them. Adjust as necessary for your comfort level.
>>
Normally I would agree with the above statement and philosophy. But the
intent of the strobes is not to help you fly the plane better, it is there to
help other pilots see you.
I fly in the Bay area at a very busy class D airport that is under class C
airpspace that is also under class B airspace. Even though ATC tells me the
location of the other planes, I sometimes have a difficult time locating them,
especially in the pattern. I used to think that I was deficient in some way,
but during my bi-annual review (or whatever it is called now) I found that the
CFI did no better in locating aircraft in the pattern. 400 Candle power is
not that noticable in the Bay area!
On the other hand, I used to fly from an uncontrolled field in the middle of
the New Mexico desert. If that is the only place I would be flying, then I
see no need for strobes during the day or little or no need at night.
Another airplane in the pattern was a unique event.
You can now see how difficult it is to make one standard that is applicable to
all situations. I would agree with no strobes or 100 CP strobes if the
airplane never flew in a metro high density area. But remember, the strobes
on your plane are not for your benefit, but for mine! To help me avoid flying
into you!
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
> Don't laugh, I essentially did this on my panel. I added
>an avionics master switch and made it a double-pole, double-throw
>switch. When the avionics master is in the off position, one side
>of the switch powers the starter switch. When in the on position,
>the other side powers the avionics bus. This way I must turn off
>the power to the radios to start the engine. Turning on the radios
>cuts off power to the starter.
>
>Cheryl Sanchez
>RV6-A
THIS is a good idea. I like it, and electric Bob can't argue about it too
much.
PS its good to see your still on the list. Havn't heard from you in what
seems like a year.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question [building time] |
Regarding quick-build versus kit; the price difference on the 8 is more like
$7,000, not $5,000, plus higher shipping costs.
Von Alexander
RV-8 #544 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question [building time] |
'Vejita' S. Cousin wrote:
>
> And I no one minds me asking, but why did you choose to build a RV?
> I really like the RV-6a but I'm also considering some other kits (once
> again this is my 'research year').
>
> Thanks in Advance
> Sydney L. Cousin, Jr.
>
Without knowing which other airplanes you are considering it is hard
to do a comparison.
I choose a RV-6 because it is the best homebuilt airplane you can buy
for the dollars spent.
I have flown both a Lancair 360 and a Glasair IIs and yes they are pretty
and they are fast and great for going from point A to B but the guys I
know
that own them very seldom fly them just because they are plain fun to fly.
What other kits are you considering?
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Grubb <sgrubb(at)bankofhydro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
Cheryl:
This sounds like a great idea! I can see only one situation where this
might be a problem, but thankfully, it is not very likely to happen:
If your engine quits in flight (for whatever reason), you may have to kill
all of your avionics (including comm and transponder) to attempt a restart.
In a situation where you need to both: restart your engine, and let
someone know where you are and what is happening, there may not be enough
time to do both, or to do either one very well.
Shawn Grubb
Weatherford, Oklahoma
>
>>
>>Just a thought, and might not be worth the extra complexity, but how about
>>a starter master switch??
>>
>>Paul Bilodeau
>>RV-6A Horizontal Stabilizer, still......
>>
>
> Don't laugh, I essentially did this on my panel. I added
>an avionics master switch and made it a double-pole, double-throw
>switch. When the avionics master is in the off position, one side
>of the switch powers the starter switch. When in the on position,
>the other side powers the avionics bus. This way I must turn off
>the power to the radios to start the engine. Turning on the radios
>cuts off power to the starter.
>
>Cheryl Sanchez
>RV6-A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question [building time] |
I consider myself to be about as slow as they get. I had no prior sheet
metal experience, and although I had plenty of experience with tools and
consider myself very handy, I had never done any precision work like
this. It took me about 300 hours and 6 months to finish my RV-8 tailkit.
I log all time spent in the shop, from the second I turn on the lights
until I turn them off, no matter what I'm doing. Jig setup, priming, and
thinking is all logged. Tonight I spent 2 hours figuring out how to
build a floor section of my fuselage, and taking out tools, etc, then
spent about an hour building it. 3 hours logged and nothing that a
casual observer would notice was completed. I enjoy the whole process
though, and get a tremendous amount of satisfaction from it. Your best
bet is buy the tailkit and get started, you will very quickly learn your
pace. I knew from the first assembly that I would have to get a
quickbuild to get it done in less then 5 years. If you want to see what
a slow builder is like, look at my webpage. If you want to see a fast
builder, look at Sam Buchanan's page. I only build half as fast as he
does.
If you are in a hurry to get in the air, you should consider buying a
completed aircraft. If you want to BUILD your own aircraft, you will not
find a finer kit.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> vans has come along way since the earlier kits, i built the entire emp kit in
> 1 1/2 weeks, thats after work and on weekends, since i have the wing kit,
i
> already have 2 flaps done, 2 ailerons done, bulkhead assembly done, just
> been 2 weeks so far. just working afteroons 3-4 hours and a good weekend.
> these times include priming. if the rest of the kit goes this fast, and
> looking at the rest of the wing kit , it will .
> as far as deciding which aircraft to build, get a ride in a rv6a and you tell
> me. the rv grin department really exist, still wearing mine since sun n fun
> scott
> winging it in tampa
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael L. Weller" <midibu(at)mindspring.com> |
>
Vigously snipped for Matt and the rest of us.
> > meet the FAA requirements for visibility? >>
> >
> >Sadly there are no such requirements,
>
> Sadly? Don't you mean gladly!
>
> I mean, if it looks bright when it flashes, well I guess it serves its
> purpose. >>
>
>No, I meant actually meant "tragically". It just boggles my mind that anyone
>would state, with pride no less, that they have knowingly selected and
>installed a substandard aviation safety related item.
Pretty strong language. It sounds to me like you have a vested interest in
selling something.
What makes you think that I would want to install something "substandard"
in my plane?
I think that one should look at the next paragraph that you wrote:
>
>Now if that person had claimed that they used aluminum sheet (because it was
>lighter and easier to drill) for the firewall, some old back pack straps
>(because they were already in hand) for the seatbelts and hardware store
bolts
>(because they were readily available) for the spar fastenings or bicycle
>cables (because they were cheaper) for the throttle/prop/mixture, the sane
>person would correctly label this as needlessly foolish.
>
>Yet the aforementioned items merely contribute to the subject aircraft being
>less safe. In the use of substandard lighting, not only the subject aircraft
>but another properly equipped aircraft may suffer (as in collide) due to the
>poor visiblity of the former.
>
>IMO, when one selects articles related aircraft safety, the "bean counter"
hat
>should definitely be left in the wardrobe.
>
>But then that's just my opinion,
>-GV
I didn't cut a thing out of that. I don't know why you flew off in such a
tangent about putting a strobe light on an airplane.
That's my opinion also.
Mike Weller
Mike Weller
midibu(at)mindspring.com (preferred) or michael.l.weller(at)lmco.com
RV-8 (under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts-nose gear |
I once owned a Grumman AA1-C--these have a landing gear somewhat similar to
the RV-6A, at least in regards to the nosegear. The early models had a rigidly
fixed nosegear like the 6A and I think the main problem was PIO's from landing
nose wheel first but I think I remember some failures also. The C models had a
shock absorber added along with a hinged point at the gear mount that was much
more forgiving and apparently stronger too---I have flown both and YES it was
a big improvement. I have a small amount of flight time in a 6A with a few
landings--my humble opinion is that the 6A is not nearly as bad as the early
Grumman/Yankees in terms of PIO's and as far as the actual strength of the
gear is concerned I cannot say. Maybe some talented builder out there could
look into a after-market mod. for the trike geared Rv's. Such a shock dampened
front gear could be a good thing for rough field ops. Just a thought --maybe
there is some reason I am unaware of that may make this a very bad idea. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> > Just a thought, and might not be worth the extra complexity, but how about
> > a starter master switch??
>
> You'll probably have the starter on a fuse or a circuit breaker,
> right? (the wire that activates the solenoid, not the #2 wire to the
> starter!) If it you make the fuse/cb accessable, you should be able
> to pull it if the light goes on. That's what I'm doing.
>
So.........
Make sure you purchase circuit breakers that can be pulled, I did
not and have regretted it ever since.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
Endless details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sneadksu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Zoche aero diesel |
Hey, I just checked on cost and here is what they had to say:
Dear Sir:
Thank you for your recent e-mail.
As we do not sell engines yet, there is no final price list. However,
aero-diesel prices will be competitive with those of our competitors, on a
Dollar-per-horsepower scale. Current 300 hp aircraft engines are in the US$
40000 to 50000 range. Major savings are to be expected through reduced
operating costs.
Again, thank you for your interest in the progress of the Zoche aero
diesel. In case of further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Sincerely,
Dr. Stefan Ittner
Zoche Antriebstechnik
By the way, this thing only weighs 271 lbs according to their web page.
Sounds good . . .until you hear the price!
Doug Snead
Hyped up and waiting for the preview plans!!! :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Found a unplanned benifit of elect. flaps.
I unfortunatly ended up with a broken left wrist.
I would not be flying for many weeks if I had the
manual flaps and trim!
Rv4 273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Who in our group has provided some type of external power hookup
for the inevitable dead battery?
It would be nice to be able to plug in some power and fire it up.
I should have planned for this a long time ago, now that I've got
everthing stuffed in and around the battery area it will be tough
to do.
Any ideas?
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: second thoughts |
Hello Listers;
I saw a Mooney at Urbana with the nose on a stack of tires and the prop
all bent from the collapse of the nose gear. Happens to the best.
Also, the RV fatal on Memorial Day 1997 in Ohio was a heart attack.
Flying without a medical I understand and had the big one. Not all are
due to overstress conditions.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Site glitches |
Thanks, Scott!
We'll get together when the RVs are flyin'...
Sam
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> sam
> we should all pitch in for your site cost, it has helped me tremendously, if
> ever your in tampa i owe you a nice lunch !!!
> scott winging it in tampa
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Die Question |
Thomas Gesele wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> I was wondering on the pros/cons of using the Cleavland tank
> dimple dies for dimpling the substructure rather than the 3/32"
> dies. On the surface, it would seem it would allow the skin to
> seat better, but are there any potential problems with doing this?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gesele
> RV-6, Emp on order
Tom, use the dies---they work great on the substructure:
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/tankdies.html
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing Lightspeed Electronic Ignition |
First Let me establish that I am a fan of Klaus' electronic ignition system. I
have it on my RV-6A and it does what Klaus stated it will do.
I also have the trigger coils on the front end of the engine and they were
quite easy to install. My engine has the small pulley as Ken Scott addressed
in the RVAtor article. Nevertheless my butt is always puckered thinking what
will happen if the trigger pins move just the slightest. They are VERY close
and very difficult to measure in the small pulley. I also ruined one trigger
coil on the first start up after installation with the prop bolts being just a
fraction to long.
I am going to the Hall effect sensor system !
Klaus has different motives in his use of the system that I do. He is setting
great performance records on fuel effeciency ; I just want a current
technology ignition system that is more reliable than a mag.
Ufobuck
N75TX
in Amarillo, Texas ,the home of the Bell Tlt Rotor V22
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: External power |
>
>Who in our group has provided some type of external power hookup
>for the inevitable dead battery?
>It would be nice to be able to plug in some power and fire it up.
>I should have planned for this a long time ago, now that I've got
>everthing stuffed in and around the battery area it will be tough
>to do.
>Any ideas?
>
>Craig Hiers
>
I put a couple jacks just inside the oil access door that were in
parallel with the battery. The wires weren't big enough to start the
plane but were big enough to charge the battery. You only have to
charge the battery for about 1/2 hour to start the plane.
John Ammeter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | second thoughts -Reply |
>
>Fred,
>
>I am sorry to hear about your incident and hope that there are much to
>learn from this. This is sound like a typical fracture failure case from the
>engineering standpoint. The initial flaw (crack) may already exist on the
>gear when you receive it from the manufacturer and you not knowing
>about it. This crack may have been introduced to the gear during
>manufacturing and/or during the process of shipping it to you.
>
>The flaw size could be small initially and then when subjected to the
>operational loads (landing, taxi and etc..) , it growth until it reach its
>"critical length" and failure will soon follow. I would not consider this as
>a "classic OVERSTRESS failure" case.
>
>Lesson learned from this is that I will inspect my gears using dyn pen
>and/or magna flux prior to final installation. I know that I would not like
>for this to happen to me. My opinion on this is that the gear design is
>sound and will have no problem of flying my RV-6A when it is complete.
(snip)
listers,
>It might be worthwhile for those of us still building to have our nose /
main gear non destructive tested previous to subjecting these parts to any
load at all. I truly expect such testing to be unnecessary. However if we
(a reasonable number of us) provided the results of such tests to the list,
Vans, or maybe someone's web page we might determine a baseline for future
use. ....? In any case I'll get mine checked soon and these stress points
will be on the frequent check/inspection list. I will report any negative
finding to the list and Van's
It's not clear to me exactly where these cracks are being found, for that
matter I'm not sure that they are propagating at precisly the same place or
way in each of the few examples so far reported. If such information is out
there please advise.
I must say that I'm impressed by the courage shown by the individual who
posted his fears about RV mishaps etc. Firstly !- After the tone of his
post, for even considering to fly in an aircraft let alone build one of his
own to fly.
Secondly !- For daring to open the door to one hell of a flame job. There
might be enough flames left over to paint his RV like a fifties hot rod.
I did note that this person seemed to be picking an RV to build. Just
imagine what he found out about the other types he chose not to go with.
In light of this I suppose we listers should consider this person's post a
vote of, . ... confidence....!?!
Oops! sorry about that. (:-).
You listers out there deserve credit for showing restraint above and beyond
the call...!
You're an impressive bunch indeed!.
jim RV6-eh B.C. Can. almost ready to pro seal.
When dreams come true the sky is the limit.
________________________________________________________________________________
canard-aviators(at)canard.com
| Subject: | Re: [canard-aviators] Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . |
. .
> Drawback in my mind would be the heat of 50 Watts through the FET. Duty
> cycle would make it cooler and a heat sink would certainly be required.
>
If you switch it on/off with a 20% duty cycle, you'll only deliver 10
watts average power to the bulb. The electrical energy would be:
Pj = Voltage * Current * Time_ion/Time_off
Bottom line: Stick with the aircraft strobes.
>
>
> T--
> PROFOUND INSIGHTS FROM COMEDIAN STEVEN WRIGHT
> I fly way too fast to worry about cholesterol.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
RVer273sb(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Found a unplanned benifit of elect. flaps.
> I unfortunatly ended up with a broken left wrist.
> I would not be flying for many weeks if I had the
> manual flaps and trim!
> Rv4 273sb
>
How do you run the throttle? Motorcycle twist-grip on top of the stick?
:)
Sorry to hear about the wrist...sounds painful.
Scott
--
Gotta Fly or
Gonna Die !
--Ask me about my
Aeronca Super Chief--
amended 8-29-97: Now after feeling the "Need for Speed", building an
RV-4!
Tail kit arrived!! Somewhat regretfully, the Super Chief is now for
sale. $8500 :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> It just boggles my mind that anyone
> would state, with pride no less, that they have knowingly selected and
> installed a substandard aviation safety related item.
This assumes that we accept the standard, as defined by Gummint
bureacrats, to be valid. If you're going to slam someone for doing
something sub-'standard', I think it behooves you to say exactly why
that's a bad thing. Conversely, someone who uses a sub-'standard' item
just because something meets the standard, doesn't mean it's safe.
What exactly is magical about 400cp strobes that makes them 'safe'?
Why weren't 350cp or 450cp selected? My guess -- 400cp was the
brightest that could reasonably be installed at the time the specs
were written. When technology improves and 800cp strobes become cheap
and available, the Whelan strobes will be in exactly the same
situation as Aeroflash is now.
Note that (as I read FAR 91.209) 400cp strobes are NOT required for
night flight. However, if you have "anticollision lights", they must
be 400cp, and they must be on. I guess that people with Aeroflash
strobes would be OK to have them, so long as they called them anything
but "anticollision lights". Then, they'd be 'safe' (by FAA reasoning)
whether they were on or off.
Let's not forget that the 'standard' is for light aircraft to be built
in factories and maintained by high-priced technicians. And to be
draggy, non-aerobatic, tri-gear, and expensive.
> IMO, when one selects articles related aircraft safety, the
> "bean counter" hat should definitely be left in the wardrobe.
There's not many situations where safety is NOT in competition with
money. Hell, aircraft would be a lot safer with 4 turbine engines. You
didn't build/buy an RV just to save a few hundred kilobucks, did you?
Perhaps, in the interests of safety, we should all install airborne
radar so we can find everyone (except for F117s and B2s) whether they
have strobes or not.
I thought that it was ironic that the very next RV-list message I
received contained the following:
: I choose a RV-6 because it is the best homebuilt airplane you
: can buy for the dollars spent.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Captain Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Question... |
I am pretty sure the carb will be in the way for the rv-6a nose wheel (if it
is mounted below the oil pan to the rear)
Capsteve
Capt. Steven DiNieri (uscg)
rv-6a emp under way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: COZY: Re: do it yourself strobes . . . |
>
>
><< ><< I have no way of determining the lumens
> > (candlepower) output of these things (homemade anti-collision lighting).
> >Anyone know if such an animal would
> > meet the FAA requirements for visibility? >>
> >
> >Sadly there are no such requirements,
>
> Sadly? Don't you mean gladly!
>
> I mean, if it looks bright when it flashes, well I guess it serves its
> purpose. >>
RVers,
I agree with GV on this one. The infamous Laws of Physics say that
you will see a 400cp strobe from TWICE the distance of a 100cp strobe. It
is up to each builder to decide if this is good, bad, or needed for
him/her. But with the density of traffic in the Los Angeles basin, I
personally will go for strobes that can be seen by others at the greater
distance. Twice the distance is a significant number ....
... just my thoughts .... Gil Alexander
Even the Mojave desert outside LA is getting more crowded, I "met" three
727/737 airliners at 13-14,000 ft during my last two glider flights....
>
>No, I meant actually meant "tragically". It just boggles my mind that anyone
>would state, with pride no less, that they have knowingly selected and
>installed a substandard aviation safety related item.
*** snip ***
>
>But then that's just my opinion,
>-GV
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Tube Placement |
I mounted the AN924-4d fitting up inside the wing, towards the top skin,
then made a longer pitot tube to fit to it. It is accessable from the
bellcrank access hole and only needs a 9/32" hole in the wing. It looks
much neater without the draggy AN fitting sticking out. Also the wing then
has nothing sticking out when you come to paint it or lay it down on a flat
surface for storage.
If you don't want to use the tie down points for jacking, the further out
you mount them the better. They will the hold the airplane down better in a
crosswind and most tie downs supplied at airports are spaced to suit larger
(read as Cessna) airplanes than ours, often making them unusable. If you
move them well out I think you would be quite safe jacking only one side,
but they may not be suitable to jack both sides at once. Brian
> >I am about to mount my pitot tube. Is there any reason NOT to mount it
in
> >the called out location (about 2" inboard of the tie down) I looked at
two
> >RV's today and both were mounted more outboard on the wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: External power |
>
>Who in our group has provided some type of external power hookup
>for the inevitable dead battery?
>It would be nice to be able to plug in some power and fire it up.
>I should have planned for this a long time ago, now that I've got
>everthing stuffed in and around the battery area it will be tough
>to do.
>
If you are interested in a very simple hookup that works well, is easy to
use, costs next to nothing, but is NOT pretty, you may consider the hookup I
use in my RV-6.
Fabricate a Z bracket out of a 1/2" diameter copper pipe. A 4" length of
copper pipe is smashed flat, then folded lengthwise. (It is necessary to
heat the pipe several times during this process to keep it from cracking.)
Form a Z bracket from this piece with a 2-1/4" stem and 3/4" flanges. Strip
1-1/2" of insulation from a 4 AWG wire and solder it lengthwise to the stem
of the Z bracket. Paint the flanges of the Z-bracket with liquid insulation
and cover them with several layers of heat shrink tubing. Use hose clamps
to attach this bracket between the two engine mount tubes adjacent to the
oil filler tube. Attach the other end of the 4 AWG wire to the battery side
of your master contactor.
The positive terminal of your battery is now accessable through your oil
filler door. You can "grab onto" the stem of the Z bracket with the small
spring clamp of a battery charger or the larger clamp of an automotive
jumper cable. Attach the negative cable to any convenient engine ground
point. A short piece of automotive heater hose with a lengthwise split can
be slipped over the stem of the Z bracket to insulate it when it is not in use.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6 flying; 253 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck starter contactors . . . |
My understanding of a stuck starter contactor (solenoid) is that the plunger
is either mechanical stuck in the on position or the contactor disk has
welded itself to one or both of the heavy terminals. Either one would keep
the starter engaged. Removing/switching the starter solenoid coil power
would not solve the problem.
As I posted earlier, most of the light weight starters now in use have their
own starter solenoids also. I am not necessarily suggesting this, but a
fused switch circuit could be put in the starter solenoid circuit that is
now directly wired off the heavy wire terminal on the starter. This
terminal is powered by the aircraft starter solenoid when it is switched on.
Otherwise, I think the only other way to shut off a starter that has a stuck
solenoid is to switch off the master or use one REALLY BIG switch for the #4
or #2 starter wire.
I have un-stuck some stuck contactors on automobiles I've worked on by
simply giving them a good whack with a heavy tool. However, I don't know if
I would try that on my airplane somewhere up in the wild blue yonder! I
still think the best option is to install an essential buss and then shut
off the master if this happens.
Les WilliamsRV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zoche aero diesel |
Who do these people think are going to buy these engines? They have been
coming to Oshkosh for years showing the great advances they are making in
engines (if the fruits of their labor ever comes to bear) so obviously they
think we Americans have plenty of money and are lined up with cash waving in
our hands. How many of us have $40,000 to plunk down on an engine? We are
talking the grass roots of aviation here. I don't plan having near that much
money in my whole airplane. I will admit that I don't need 300 hp either.
Never the less, if a 150 hp Zoche aero diesel cost only half as much, I
would still rather have a Lycoming for about the same price.
The same goes for the Renault diesel. The latest issue of Sport Aviation
lists a price range of $40,000 for a 180 hp engine all the way up to a
paltry $75,000 for a 300 hp model. Whoa! Sign me up boys before they are all
gone!!!!!!!!!!! Get real.
It seems to me that ventures like these are destined for failure from
the start because of the limited customer base you get into at these prices.
I've heard people complain about the cost of aircraft engines and the
ancient technology that they are built under. Every time a new engine
development is announced we all get excited and think this is going to be
the one that delivers everything promised, a marvel of engineering and
efficiency that costs far less than your grand pa's Lycoming. Then reality
sets in. In my opinion they have all struck out so far. Is there really
150-200 cheap horse power out there?
Hey, but then again you guys may have plenty of money.
Jerry Isler
This is My Soap Box and I'm Standing on it.
Donalsonville, Ga.
Doug Snead wrote:
>
>Hey, I just checked on cost and here is what they had to say:
>
>Dear Sir:
>
>Thank you for your recent e-mail.
>
>As we do not sell engines yet, there is no final price list. However,
>aero-diesel prices will be competitive with those of our competitors, on a
>Dollar-per-horsepower scale. Current 300 hp aircraft engines are in the US$
>40000 to 50000 range. Major savings are to be expected through reduced
>operating costs.
>
>Again, thank you for your interest in the progress of the Zoche aero
>diesel. In case of further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Dr. Stefan Ittner
>Zoche Antriebstechnik
>
>
>By the way, this thing only weighs 271 lbs according to their web page.
>Sounds good . . .until you hear the price!
>
>Doug Snead
>Hyped up and waiting for the preview plans!!! :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A windshield molding strip |
I too followed the metal trim molding article in the June 97 RVator, by
Charles Wagner. It is an excellent method. Even mine are perfect, and it
is easy to do and fast. Thank's Charles.....!
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, ready to mount wings and tail, all are painted.
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SHawksw523(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Some questions |
>1. Any tips on fabricating the HS810 and HS814? Is a band-saw the best
>way to cut this to size? Looking ahead, what about the rudder stiffners?
>I used a hack saw and a jig saw clamped upside down in a vise for the
>angles. Then get a vixen file to get to final shape. For the stiffeners,
>use your right and left airplane snips.
I saw the reference to a vixen file which I haven't heard of in England - what
is it?
(just got my replacement HS810 - and bought a bandsaw - I'm useless with a
August 04, 1998 - August 11, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fd