RV-Archive.digest.vol-fh
August 25, 1998 - August 29, 1998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Location |
> I was thinking about how to do this with just one gascolator. With a little
> tubing bending I think you will only need one. Use the fuel tube from the
> fuel selector and run it back out the fuselage to the gascolator between wing
> and fuselage and then reroute back into the fuselage and to the firewall.
I'm far from an expert on this area, but...
Resistance to flow will be compounded by long lines and lots of curves.
A short, straight tube will flow better than a long, curved one.
That's my half cent's worth, anyways.
-J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:new carb for sale |
To the guy with the new carb for sale please call me at 817-439-3280....George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hawkins <jah(at)Adobe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
Hi Tom,
I would suggest you prime when she (they) are NOT around the
house. You do NOT want her breathing any of the primer fumes!
Consider the consequences!
Send her out shopping when you need to prime. 8^)
-Jeff
RV-8 #563
Suwanee, Georgia
>
>Listers,
>
>Sorry to do this to you folks, but I've got to ask a primer question
>(I promise it will be the first, last, and only one!) First, let me
>say that since I live on Long Island, I am going to prime the entire
>airframe.
>
> Now, my question is since I'm pretty sure my wife is pregnant, what
>precautions should I take to ensure both her and the kid's safety? I'll
>be using Veri-Prime for the whole thing, shooting it with a spray gun.
>I can't imagine a self-etching primer being too good for her, so any
>suggestions on the best way to protect 'em would be appreciated..
>
>Thanks,
> Tom Gesele (RV-6 #25465)
> Emp arrived yesterday!!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
Scott,
These figures are at 1000 feet, on a 95 degree day. I knew it
would be overpropped when I told him to make it 82 inch pitch. I
was just tired of trying underpitched props for a few minutes,
then waiting 6 weks to try another one. I am happy with what I
get considering being way overpitched. This one should work okay
if I boost the hp, or go to an 0-360 (hopefully, in my lifetime).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
I am trying to decide whether to go with the EXP Power Bus by Control Vision.
I am impressed with the simplicity of the idea, but wonder about failure. For
example; if one part of the unit fails, you would obviously have to remove the
entire board and send it in for repair, grounding the aircraft. Whereas with
the regular system, it would be relatively easy to find the problem and
replace the cb, switch, or whatever.
Anyother thoughts, for or against?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
You might have seen the spinner for the constant
speed cowl using a fixed pitch prop.
RVer273sb
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
Listers:
I have two questions concerning the tailwheel steering chains for my RV-6.
1. The tailwheel steering chains are attached to the rudder control
horn with a wire clip that passes through a hole in the control horn. After
265 hours on my RV-6, there is significant wear on the hole in the control
horn. Have others experienced this problem? Has anyone used another
attachment method that eliminates the wear problem?
2. My tailwheel steering chains are looser than I would like. If I
remove one link from each chain, the chains would be too tight. Does anyone
have any simple suggestions of a way to take up the slack? (I don't want to
install 3" long turnbuckles.)
Perhaps there is a single solution that will solve both problems. Any help
would be appreciated.
Mark Nielsen
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
<< First, let me
say that since I live on Long Island, I am going to prime the entire
airframe.
safety issue deleted
I'll be using Veri-Prime for the whole thing, shooting it with a spray gun.
>>
For Vari-prime to be effective, it needs a top coat. Not good for interior
corrosion control- too heavy. Use a good grade of epoxy (U S Paints Mil-spec
or equiv).
At least, DuPont says to top coat the stuff, but you ARE building an
experimental!
Check six!
Mark
HR2 285 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
I was with you right up to this point. You countered every point made. You
should have stopped there.
But then you had to take a shot at the messenger. All Scott attempted to
do was provide the other side of the story (being the only Vans rep on the
list). This one sarcastic slap at Scott for providing the other side of the
story was totally uncalled for and I think you owe him an apology! Scott
regularly provides valuable contributions to this list and deserves better
treatment for attempting to provide the opposing viewpoint in this matter.
Mike WIlls
RV-4(fuse)
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
><facts I have provided are absolutely accurate (second hand through my
>poor memory).>>
>
>Right!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Condensation? |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>Am about to finish the HS. It occurs to me that I have enclosed some
>areas in the Horzontal Stabilizer that has no provision for draining
>condensation. I have found nothing in the construction manual on this
>question. Have I missed something? It bothers me to think of the
>possible condensation building up and adding weight to the tail section.
>Bob Binzer, Tailfeathers, Madison, Indiana
Bob,
Don't sweat it. You're thinking too much. We all do at the outset.
That which condenses, evaporates. Prime it and drive on!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp, elevators on the bench, wings on the waaayyy!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CRACKS IN POWDERCOATING |
I had my steel parts powdercoated gloss white--they look great and will look
even better in the finished product someday. The cost was about 75$--it may be
higher in some locals. I hardly could have done it cheaper myself when you
consider the time factor for preping/priming/painting. The finish is so
durable when compared to most paints and chip resistant. It is slightly
thicker than paint would have been but I feel that any growing cracks would
still show through. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO" <lewisth(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Wire size, Engine compartment wire routing |
Listers,
I'm planning to use 6AWG wire between my battery and bus bar (power load
nearly 60 amps when everything is on), and between my 60 amp alternator and
the bus bar. According to AC43.13-1A figure 11.5 that should be OK (AN-6
wire can handle 101 Amps in free air, or 60 Amps if in a bundle).
Calculated voltage drop will be about .2V, which is less than the 2% allowed
by paragraph 442a. The payoff for using 6AWG vs 4AWG is lower weight.
On the other hand, Aeroelectric Connection figure 8-3 shows a 35C temp rise
at 54 amps for 6AWG wire. I'm thinking I can tolerate a tad more than 35C
temp rise in these wires, since they aren't bundled. Any feedback from the
group?
I plan to use 4AWG wire for the starter line. . The voltage drop will be
about .2 volts per 100 amps of current. I don't know how much current a
Lycoming starter takes (O-360), so I don't know what the voltage drop thru
the line will be. Any experience from the group on starter line wire size?
Wire routing question: How have folks routed the starter and alternator
lines in the engine compartment? Can the lines go under the cylinders (but
above the exhaust pipes) without overheating? Should I route the wires
along the outsides of the baffles to keep the wires cooler?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ N47TD
Springfield, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Location |
<< > I was thinking about how to do this with just one gascolator. With a
little
> tubing bending I think you will only need one. Use the fuel tube from the
> fuel selector and run it back out the fuselage to the gascolator between
wing
> and fuselage and then reroute back into the fuselage and to the firewall.
I'm far from an expert on this area, but...
Resistance to flow will be compounded by long lines and lots of curves.
A short, straight tube will flow better than a long, curved one.
That's my half cent's worth, anyways.
>>
Maybe so, but the significance of the extra resistance might be hard to
measure... I did a calibrated fuel flow check on my 6A last month when
tweaking the carburetor and because my mechanic kept insisting that the 3/8"
hose Van sells for the fuel lines is too small (Cessna uses half-inch
plumbing). We disconnected the fuel line to the carb, turned on the boost
pump, and timed a gallon of gas into a milk jug. The math worked out to 37
gph. This would suggest an adequate margin (!) for an engine that gulps maybe
12-14 gph at full climb power full-rich. The fuel pressure is 4 to 5 lbs in
flight with or without the boost pump on; likewise the boost pump alone
supplies 4 psi with the engine off. I have a gut feeling that a few extra
feet of 3/8" smooth aluminum tubing isn't going to change these numbers much,
but it's best to make sure by doing your own testing after the mods are
completed.
Bill Boyd
RV-6a 25 hrs (Free at last!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
Hi Tom, and welcome to the fold:
Do what I do. Spray outside. Let things dry before you bring them inside,
and even then you will be able to smell primer for a few days. It gets to
be a bit of a hastle in the winter, but you don't want that stuff floating
around inside the house. As you guessed, this is some nasty stuff.
Best of luck to you. Now start drill'n some holes!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wings
Peshtigo, Wi
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 10:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: Primer Safety Question
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Sorry to do this to you folks, but I've got to ask a primer question
>(I promise it will be the first, last, and only one!) First, let me
>say that since I live on Long Island, I am going to prime the entire
>airframe.
>
> Now, my question is since I'm pretty sure my wife is pregnant, what
>precautions should I take to ensure both her and the kid's safety? I'll
>be using Veri-Prime for the whole thing, shooting it with a spray gun.
>I can't imagine a self-etching primer being too good for her, so any
>suggestions on the best way to protect 'em would be appreciated..
>
>Thanks,
> Tom Gesele (RV-6 #25465)
> Emp arrived yesterday!!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES |
>
> I'll take a shot at this. I suspect it is simply a matter of the
>100w clinging longer while the airplane sits around for weeks on end ( this
>rarely happens to a car). In addition, I suspect the sloppy assembly of
>airplane engines causes them to essentially try to machine themselves into
>scrap. A thick oil may provide some additional cushion between metal parts.
>My guess is that the issue is thick vs. thin, not multi vs. straight
>weight.
That is the standard misconception; that lubricity, metal afinity, and
vicosity are related. They aren't, well not as much as some people think.
The ability to form a film that prevents metal-to-metal contact is
lubricity and that is what protects your engine when it is running.
The problem with having too much vicosity is that it is possible to
actually mechanically pull the lubricating film away from the metal because
the oil is too viscous and behaves more like a solid than a liquid (ever
play with Silly Putty then you know what I am talking about. In that case
it doesn't lubricate at all. Imagine that you inadvertantly have an oil
with too high a viscosity. It is a bit cold that morning so two things
happen: first, the oil doesn't flow well so no new oil is getting to the
bearings for some time. Next, what oil remains is mechanically pulled away
from the metal (too viscous or even congealed) so you have no lubricating
film at all. Not good for longevity. (You know, as long as you keep your
engine running at a constant temperature, it is going to run for a long,
long time before it needs overhaul.)
Now back to lubricity. This is what actually protects your engine from
wear. Lubricity is usually measured in units of pressure (PSI, pascals,
whatever) and represents how much pressure is actually needed to penetrate
the lubricating film. Viscosity does actually play a small part as it
determines, to some extent, the thickness of the lubricating film.
Normally this isn't an issue as long as the lubricating film is thicker
than the roughness of the metal parts it is protecting. Like vitamins,
enough is fine but more isn't necessarily better.
Now on to metal affinity. All oils "drain down". This is a mechanical
process. Regular mineral oils don't have a lot of metal afinity so they do
drain down completely leaving the metal bare. Let your engine sit long
enough and there is no oil at all on any of the bearing surfaces at your
next start. Also the metal is bare to the atmosphere leading to corrosion
(rust). Again, viscosity doesn't really play much of a part in this game.
Sure a heavier weight oil will drain down more slowly but, in most cases,
the difference between 8 hours and 16 hours is moot especially if your
airplane sits for 5 days between flights. That is one of the reasons for
synthetic oils: they have been formulated to be chemically attracted to
metal. Even though most of the oil has mechanically drained down, a thin
film, hopefully of the necessary thickness to provide lubrication, will
remain on the metal for a very long time, days or even weeks. That means
that the metal is protected from corosion and there is a lubricating film
still present at your next start. If this high-metal-afinity oil is also
multi-vis, you stand a good chance of the thinner oil getting to your
bearings before the leftover lubricating film is worn through.
So there is a whole lot more to oil than just viscosity. Sure the proper
viscosity is required but it doesn't guarantee that your engine is
protected under all conditions. If you fly your normally-aspirated engine
every day and the OAT varies between 15C and 40C, straight 50W oil will
work as well as any oil you can use. If temperatures vary widely, you want
something with a viscosity stabilizer so that the viscosity doesn't really
change with temperature . If your engine doesn't run for a week or more at
a time you want an oil with better metal afinity. If you have a hot-rod
engine with greater pressures on the bearings, you want an oil with greater
lubricity. You pay your money and you take your choice.
Me? I have 10:1 compression pistons with flowed heads in my O-320. I
suspect that the pressures on my rod bearings and on the cylinder walls is
higher than with a standard O-320 so I am going for a semi-synthetic
multi-vis oil. I think you have to analyze the task you are asking your
oil to perform and then select appropriately. I personally don't believe
that "one size fits all."
No, I don't work for Shell, Mobil, Philips, or any other manufacturer of
lubrication products.
Your milage may vary.
Take no wooden nickels.
Eat your vegetables.
Have fun flying! (This is the most important admonition.)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Location |
Considering how reluctant I am to post (that is a joke for those of you who
are humor impaired) I thought I would take a stab at placement of fuel
system components (I just finished this off in my RV-4). My concerns were
for two things:
1. being able to catch and drain water;
2. minimizing the possibility of vapor lock.
My system looks like this:
tanks --. [engine pump]
\ / \
selector-->[electric pump] / [fuel flow transducer]
\ / \
[gascolator] [carb + fuel pressure sender]
I have positive pressure from the tanks to the electric pump plus all this
is behind the firewall so vapor lock between tank and electric pump is
unlikely. The gascolator is the low point in the system so all water
should end up there eventually. I have positive pressure from my various
pumps upstream from the worst restrictions. The only problem with this is
that the mechanical pump has to suck the fuel from the tank thus making
vapor lock more likely but having the electric pump at a low point allows
it to overcome the vapor pressure and force-feed the mechanical pump.
I believe that this topology addresses my own concerns.
Your milage may vary.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | charles(at)onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping Charges |
Surely this will be the last message on Shipping Charges, please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
Can any listers reccommend a cleaning agent to use when preparing my wing
skins and ribs for proseal application. I have tried naptha and a lacquer
thinner but both leave streaks while failing to remove stains from sweat,body
oil etc. Also can the inside of the tank be sanded with a scotch brite pad to
remove some of the aforementioned stains and discolorations? Thanks in
advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SAVOYINTL(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
In a message dated 8/25/98 6:10:00 PM, you wrote:
<<facts I have provided are absolutely accurate (second hand through my
>poor memory).>>
>
>Right!>>
You are absolutely right! Sorry Scott.
Lloyd Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire size, Engine compartment wire routing |
<< According to AC43.13-1A figure 11.5 that should be OK (AN-6
wire can handle 101 Amps in free air, or 60 Amps if in a bundle). >>
Sorry to nit-pick, Tim, but AN-6 is a bolt; 6 AWG is a wire. ;-)
Forgive me - I just flew off the last of my 25 hrs yesterday and I'm too full
of myself as a result.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
I used "stand offs" on these rudder attachment points from the very beginning
as have most of the builders in this area. They are accually called eye
bolts, an eye-let with a threaded end to bolt on, and on the tail-wheel end
another AN fitting that is best described as a lupe that the chain rides in.
As far as the chain length mine are kept tight, and so far so good (180 hrs.)
Good luck,
Pat Claar N660PC(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: EXP Power Bus |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lucchinetti, Marco" <marcol(at)crt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
FOR CRIPES SAKE! ENOUGH ALREADY!
Marco Lucchinetti
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Wills [SMTP:willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 10:47 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Bend over & shut up
>
>
>
> I was with you right up to this point. You countered every point
> made. You
> should have stopped there.
> But then you had to take a shot at the messenger. All Scott attempted
> to
> do was provide the other side of the story (being the only Vans rep on
> the
> list). This one sarcastic slap at Scott for providing the other side
> of the
> story was totally uncalled for and I think you owe him an apology!
> Scott
> regularly provides valuable contributions to this list and deserves
> better
> treatment for attempting to provide the opposing viewpoint in this
> matter.
>
> Mike WIlls
> RV-4(fuse)
> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
> >< the
> >facts I have provided are absolutely accurate (second hand through my
> >poor memory).>>
> >
> >Right!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Costello" <bcostello(at)mbsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
>>> 08/25 1:42 PM >>>
Can any listers reccommend a cleaning agent to use when preparing my wing
skins and ribs for proseal application. I have tried naptha and a lacquer
thinner but both leave streaks while failing to remove stains from sweat,body
oil etc.
The most commonly recommended substance I have seen on the list is Coleman Lantern
fluid. Try it and let us know.
Bill Costello
RV-6 on wings (still!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
If really worried about spraying primer and need a place to go. Told to the
owner of a local body shop. Many will let you rent there booth or even spray
it for you. Most shops charge 38 dollars an hour here in wisconsin. So if
you bring it all in ready to go and help. You will get a professional job and
have it done in a safe professional enviroment for pratically peanuts. Plus
if you over the owner a ride you may even get it done for free. I know I did.
Chris Wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP Power Bus |
>I am trying to decide whether to go with the EXP Power Bus by Control Vision.
>I am impressed with the simplicity of the idea, but wonder about failure. For
>example; if one part of the unit fails, you would obviously have to remove
the
>entire board and send it in for repair, grounding the aircraft. Whereas with
>the regular system, it would be relatively easy to find the problem and
>replace the cb, switch, or whatever.
>Anyother thoughts, for or against?
It takes more than a few sentences to explain. Please check out
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/expbusad.html> and
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/xpbusthd.html>
If you've still got questions, I'd be pleased to hear them.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wire size, Engine compartment wire routing |
Listers,
I'm planning to use 6AWG wire between my battery and bus bar (power load
nearly 60 amps when everything is on), and between my 60 amp alternator
and the bus bar. According to AC43.13-1A figure 11.5 that should be OK
(AN-6 wire can handle 101 Amps in free air, or 60 Amps if in a bundle).
Calculated voltage drop will be about .2V, which is less than the 2%
allowed by paragraph 442a. The payoff for using 6AWG vs 4AWG is lower
weight.
On the other hand, Aeroelectric Connection figure 8-3 shows a 35C temp
rise at 54 amps for 6AWG wire. I'm thinking I can tolerate a tad more
than 35C temp rise in these wires, since they aren't bundled. Any
feedback from the group?
I plan to use 4AWG wire for the starter line. . The voltage drop will
be about .2 volts per 100 amps of current. I don't know how much
current a Lycoming starter takes (O-360), so I don't know what the
voltage drop thru the line will be. Any experience from the group on
starter line wire size?
Wire routing question: How have folks routed the starter and alternator
lines in the engine compartment? Can the lines go under the cylinders
(but above the exhaust pipes) without overheating? Should I route the
wires along the outsides of the baffles to keep the wires cooler?
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
Thanks for the reply, Scott. I have always found Van's office personnel to
be very helpful.
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST mounting the oil filler door
>
>Dear listers,
>
>I have watched this thread grow to the point where posts are being driven
>by personal emotions far more than factual information, so I did a little
>investigating after seeing the original posters (final?) message about
>his experience.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speed/power/altitude |
Leslie B. Williams wrote:
> For some reason I keep getting multiple posts of Mark Frederick's messages;
> anyone else?
Yep, everyone else, too. Maybe it has something to do with six
cylinders instead of four?
Will Cretsinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire size, Engine compartment wire routing |
On 25 Aug 98, at 15:11, SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
> Sorry to nit-pick, Tim, but AN-6 is a bolt; 6 AWG is a wire. ;-)
> Forgive me - I just flew off the last of my 25 hrs yesterday and I'm too
> full of myself as a result.
I quoted from the FAA's AC 43.13-1A (Change 3, 1988) which lists WIRE sizes
(not bolts) from AN-000 to AN-20, with AN-6 being somewhere in the middle.
Bolts are normally listed as AN3-something, rather than AN-something.
Anyway, how did you route your wiring (inside the engine compartment) to your
starter and alternator? Did your wiring run under the cylinders, beside the
cylinders (on the baffling), or what?
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>I have two questions concerning the tailwheel steering chains for my RV-6.
>
>1. The tailwheel steering chains are attached to the rudder control
>horn with a wire clip that passes through a hole in the control horn. After
>265 hours on my RV-6, there is significant wear on the hole in the control
>horn. Have others experienced this problem? Has anyone used another
>attachment method that eliminates the wear problem?
>
>2. My tailwheel steering chains are looser than I would like. If I
>remove one link from each chain, the chains would be too tight. Does anyone
>have any simple suggestions of a way to take up the slack? (I don't want to
>install 3" long turnbuckles.)
>
Many people use eye bolts, either just on the rudder horn or at both
ends. This will also change the effective length slightly.
Now my story.
A few months ago 6 RVs were spotted on final approach at my forsaken
little desert airport. What a bonanza! I am always wanting to look at
something on someone elses airplane but rarely get the chance due to
isolation.
I enjoyed the company of all these RV people and they graciously
inspected my own humble project and had several suggestions. Among the
suggestions was that I should replace my steering chain with 1/8 inch
steel cable with swaged ends and connected with eye bolts and shackles.
They told me the standard set up breaks! Everyone of the aforementioned
RVs had the cable setup.
I spent about 2 or 3 days, recently, converting to the cables. The
swaging of the nicropress sleeves was a real pain with one of those bolt
swagers and I couldn't seem to get my cables to come out the same length.
Finally after making about 5 cables I had 2 acceptable ones and boy were
they beautiful when installed. So obviously superior to the cheap
standard set-up.
I started noticing the methods used on factory airplanes about this time.
It turns out my Pacer has almost the exact setup of the standard RV kit,
hardware store chains and dinky little clips. The only difference is the
springs on the Pacer are tension not compression springs, which doesn't
seem as good to me.
Then I looked at a Cessna 180 parked at the airport. What's the gross on
these babies, about three thousand pounds or so? Same dinky little clips
but with steering cables much, much smaller than the ones I had just
installed.
So last night I was installing fuel line from the electric pump to the
firewall and when it came time to check for rudder pedal interference I
found I couldn't move the rudder pedals through their full travel because
of some problem back on the rudder. Turns out those beautiful thimbles
altered the geometry such that the springs started compressing when near
the limits of rudder travel. Oh! Maybe that is why Vans says to leave
some slack in the cable.
I contemplated making some more cables with a little slack but ended up
going back to Vans good ole original hardware. At the same time I
removed a link from each side which just gives me a little slack in the
chain and still causes minor spring compression (hard to feel from the
pedals).
Boy, it's hard to forsee the consequences of the most minor of changes
and I wonder if those good RV folks really knew of cases of those clips
breaking or if someone just thought they didn't look strong enough.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Wiring & FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
Mark,
Guy Townsend, local RV repeat offender, recommends using 3/16" eyebolts and
shackles rather than clipping the chains directly to the rudder horn and
tailwheel arms. That way the hardware may be easily replaced when it wears
out. It has the added advantage of lowering the steering chains so that
they rub less on the rudder bottom. If you install this hardware you will
have to shorten your chains anyway. Perhaps the tension will work out
better for you. 16 Years of the RVator contains an article with sketch on
the subject.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST mounting oil filler door
>
>After
>265 hours on my RV-6, there is significant wear on the hole in the control
>horn. Has anyone used another
>attachment method that eliminates the wear problem?
>
>2. My tailwheel steering chains are looser than I would like.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
how much will it cost to send it to LA ,ca????
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
MEK also works well if you cant find the Colemans
BSivori(at)Aol.Com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
Mark Nielsen wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
>
> I have two questions concerning the tailwheel steering chains for my RV-6.
>
> 1. The tailwheel steering chains are attached to the rudder control
> horn with a wire clip that passes through a hole in the control horn. After
> 265 hours on my RV-6, there is significant wear on the hole in the control
> horn. Have others experienced this problem? Has anyone used another
> attachment method that eliminates the wear problem?
>
> 2. My tailwheel steering chains are looser than I would like. If I
> remove one link from each chain, the chains would be too tight. Does anyone
> have any simple suggestions of a way to take up the slack? (I don't want to
> install 3" long turnbuckles.)
>
> Perhaps there is a single solution that will solve both problems. Any help
> would be appreciated.
>
> Mark Nielsen
> Green Bay, WI
>
>
Mark,
A friend of mine with an RV4 installed AN43 eye bolts on the rudder
control horn
on the advice of an A&P. Depending on the size, they are listed as AN43,
44,45,46
Wicks carries them.
Ed Cole
RV6A
ICQ@ 17845900
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
Mike,
Fair is fair, I believe you're right.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
>
> I was with you right up to this point. You countered every point made. You
> should have stopped there.
> But then you had to take a shot at the messenger. All Scott attempted to
> do was provide the other side of the story (being the only Vans rep on the
> list). This one sarcastic slap at Scott for providing the other side of the
> story was totally uncalled for and I think you owe him an apology! Scott
> regularly provides valuable contributions to this list and deserves better
> treatment for attempting to provide the opposing viewpoint in this matter.
>
> Mike WIlls
> RV-4(fuse)
> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
> >< >facts I have provided are absolutely accurate (second hand through my
> >poor memory).>>
> >
> >Right!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Pad Break-in |
Hi all,
Don't tell me I have to remove wheels & brakes again! Do we have the organic
pads?
I don't remember packing wheel bearings, am I just getting forgetful or were
they already packed? Or worse, did I just skip that step?
hal
>
> One way to tell if you have organic or metallic linings is by looking at the
surface of the pad. If it has rivet holes in it, it is organic. The metallics
are bonded to a steel carrier plate which then rivetted to the backing plate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
> At what altitude does this happen?
> If at 10,000 ft or so then you probably have a good prop match.
> If it happens at low altitude then you are probably way over proped.
> Most RV's with wood fixed props do best if they can achieve 2700 with
> wide open throttle at 8000 ft.
>
> Scott McDaniels
Right on Scott. Heading for OSH above the muck at 8500 ft I had 2600
RPM wide open at 21 inches, and 8.6 GPH measured at exactly 1 hour.
This was a -4 with 150 HP and Sensenich.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
You can use AN42 eye bolts of the approiate
grip length. When the wear, you can replace them.
A little slack in the chains is ok.
RVer273sb CO>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Anderson, John wrote:
>
>
> I am curious to know if anyone has a phone number of the supplier who
> provides the elongated spinner for the RV's. I don't like the snubby one
> provided by Van's. I've seen several elongated ones at Oshkosh but could
> not get a phone number or name of a supplier from anyone. Thanks in
> advance.
>
> John C. Anderson
John
My guess is your are seeing the one made by Harrold Aircraft
Enterprises (503) 647-0829. I have one on my RV-6. It also has
all hidden screws, no screws show from the outside. It is a really nice
spinner but I would have to warn you if you ordered it. Your guess is
as good as anybody's when you would get it. there is a picture of mine on
my RV-6 on Sam Buchanan,s RV Photo Album
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Storage |
Anderson, John wrote:
>
> Has
> anyone installed the wing tip storage area on their aircraft? What are the
> pros and cons of doing this? It seems rather simple to do. Does anyone
> know the maximum weight that the wing tip can hold? I have heard it's
> around 10 lbs. Thanks.
>
I know that Ken Scott at Van's did that on his RV-6, might call and talk to
him.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List spark plugs |
Does anyone know the best spark plug to run a 0-360?????
RV-6 N7470U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Please Read - "Was I Unsubscribed?"... |
Listers,
There is a web page available for checking to see if your email address has
been unsubscribed from the List. Any email address removed from the List
because of bouncing email will be shown on this web page along with a
brief explaination of why it was removed. Please Bookmark the following
URL for future reference:
http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribed/bouncing.cgi
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | List Digest Mode... |
Listers,
For those of you that arn't aware of it, there is a 'digest mode' available for
each of the Lists. The digest mode messages consist of the entire day's
messages grouped together into one message and sent as single email at the
end of the day. The description below is from the List FAQ regarding the
operation and subscription process:
(If you are on either the Kolb or Zenith Lists, please substitute the
word "rv" below with either "kolb" or "zenith" as necessary.)
==============================================================================
This digest will contain basically the same data that is currently appended
to the archive file. It has all except for the From:, and Subject: headers
stripped out, and includes a message separator consisting of a line of
"underscores (___...)".
combined and sent as a single message to everyone on the digest email list.
To subscribe to the digest list, simply send an email message to:
rv-list-digest-request(at)matronics.com
or
kolb-list-digest-request(at)matronics.com
or
zenith-list-digest-request(at)matronics.com
and put the word "subscribe" in the BODY of the message. No other text
in the body or the Subject field. To remove your email address from the
digest list, simply put the word "unsubscribe" in the body instead.
Now some caveats:
* Messages sent to "rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com" will be forwarded to the
standard email list. In other words, you cannot post messages only to
the digest list.
* If you are subscribed to both the regular list and the digest list, you
will receive the realtime postings as well as the digest at the end of
the day.
* If you reply to the digest email, your message will be forwarded to the
normal list associated with the digest. IMPORTANT NOTE: PLEASE change
the subject line to reflect the the topic of your response!!!! Also,
PLEASE *DO NOT INCLUDE ALL OR MOST OF THE DIGEST IN YOUR REPLY*.
==============================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Di Meo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
Most sandable primers are porous so they have to be top coated. Seems some of
the epoxy types and the zinc Chromates are OK to be left as is. The only way to
be
sure is read the labels. They tell you if the primer is OK to be left alone. I
think the inside would look better with a color satin finish anyway.
Bob
RV8 #423, Building Wings.
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << First, let me
> say that since I live on Long Island, I am going to prime the entire
> airframe.
>
> safety issue deleted
>
> I'll be using Veri-Prime for the whole thing, shooting it with a spray gun.
> >>
>
> For Vari-prime to be effective, it needs a top coat. Not good for interior
> corrosion control- too heavy. Use a good grade of epoxy (U S Paints Mil-spec
> or equiv).
>
> At least, DuPont says to top coat the stuff, but you ARE building an
> experimental!
>
> Check six!
> Mark
> HR2 285 hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
What's the difference between Zinc Chromate and Zinc Oxide? (If you hate
primer questions, why are you reading this?)
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Robert Di Meo wrote:
>
>
> Most sandable primers are porous so they have to be top coated. Seems some
of
> the epoxy types and the zinc Chromates are OK to be left as is. The only way
to be
> sure is read the labels. They tell you if the primer is OK to be left alone.
I
> think the inside would look better with a color satin finish anyway.
>
> Bob
>
> RV8 #423, Building Wings.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Prop vibration - 0-320 |
Fellow Listers:
Today I happened to go flying with a local RV-4 owner who recently
converted his 0-320 160 hp machine to a constant speed prop. It's a great
performing machine on this powerplant (168 kts TAS at 6500 MSL, 23" and
2400 rpm). However, this engine/prop combination as a pronounced high
frequency vibration (almost a buzzing type vibration) as the rpm passes
through 2200. Both above and below this rpm everything is very smooth. I
have flown in one other RV-4 with the same hp/cs prop combination and it
also had a similar vibration in this RPM range. My friend's prop has been
dynamically balanced with no effect. Obviously this is some type of
harmonic situation. Has anyone else observed such a harmonic vibration on
0-320 c/s prop combinations (I have ridden in several 180 hp/cs prop RV-4s
and noticed no such vibration. Comments??
============
Doug Weiler, RV-4 fuselage
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire size, Engine compartment wire routing |
>Wire routing question: How have folks routed the starter and alternator
>lines in the engine compartment? Can the lines go under the cylinders (but
>above the exhaust pipes) without overheating? Should I route the wires
>along the outsides of the baffles to keep the wires cooler?
>Tim Lewis RV-6AQ N47TD Springfield, VA
Tim,
I routed the two wires below the cylinders and above the intake and
exhaust pipes. The wires were secured with tie wrap stand-offs, where
needed. I've not had any problems with these wires (or any others) in 3 1/2
years and 438 hours.
Bob Skinner RV-6 438 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
>1. The tailwheel steering chains are attached to the rudder control
>horn with a wire clip that passes through a hole in the control horn. After
>265 hours on my RV-6, there is significant wear on the hole in the control
>horn. Have others experienced this problem? Has anyone used another
>attachment method that eliminates the wear problem?
Mark,
As pointed out by others, the AN42 eye bolts work well for this
application. I use the eye bolts at both the rudder horn and the tailwheel
"fork". On Van's full swivel tailwheel, this fork can be easily replaced if
wear becomes a problem although if you use an eye bolt here, that shouldn't
be a problem. The rudder horn would be a nightmare to replace so I would
recommend eye bolts in the horn, for sure.
>2. My tailwheel steering chains are looser than I would like. If I
>remove one link from each chain, the chains would be too tight. Does anyone
>have any simple suggestions of a way to take up the slack? (I don't want to
>install 3" long turnbuckles.)
>Mark Nielsen Green Bay, WI
I tried operating the tailwheel with both tight and loose chains. I
finally settled on loose chains. You have more postive steering while
taxiing with tight chains but taxiing is easily accomplished with loose
chains---just takes getting a little used to. I guess I settled on the loose
chains because I felt not having pressure on the rudder horn might be a good
idea. With loose chains, a little rudder input can be put in without
activating the tailwheel. I guess I thought this might make steering a
little less "goosey". When setting my RV-6 tailwheel up, I tried to
remember the installations on the other taildraggers that I owned. I think
they all had loose springs.
Instead of the little clips (that rust so easily) that come with the
tailwheel, I used some little chain links with the gap that is closed by
screwing a long nut over the gap. They come in various lengths so you can
pretty much "dial in" the lengths of tailwheel chains that you want.\
I'd be interested in others' thoughs on tight vs. loose chains. Beats a
primer thread.
Bob Skinner RV-6 438 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers
Plans for the rv-8 flap bracket call for a 88 degree bend in the large angle
component that rivets to the foreward spar. How is this bend made short of
hammering in a vise? Is it necessary or is the 88 degree refering to the 3/4
angle stock that lays on the rib flange and connects it to the large "plate"
member?
Many thanks
Dennis Clay #80473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McLaughlin" <johnmc49(at)ecity.net> |
| Subject: | used nav com wanted |
I'm looking for a good-used kx-155 Nav-Com with the KI-209 loc/gs for my
RV6A.
Contact Johnmc49(at)ecity.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Location |
>
>
> << > I was thinking about how to do this with just one gascolator.
>
> Resistance to flow will be compounded by long lines and lots of curves.
> A short, straight tube will flow better than a long, curved one.
> >>
>
> Maybe so, but the significance of the extra resistance might be hard to
> measure... I did a calibrated fuel flow check on my 6A last month when
> tweaking the carburetor ....
Bill's analysis is the sort I was hoping to see.
-J
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap bracket |
In a message dated 8/25/98 10:46:59 PM Central Daylight Time, DenClay(at)aol.com
writes:
> Plans for the rv-8 flap bracket call for a 88 degree bend in the large angle
> component that rivets to the foreward spar. How is this bend made short of
> hammering in a vise? Is it necessary or is the 88 degree refering to the
3/
> 4
> angle stock that lays on the rib flange and connects it to the large
"plate"
> member?
Dennis,
The 88 degree bend is in fact for the large angle, and yes, hammering in the
vise is the best way to bend it. Actually it is easy to bend.
The 3/4 inch angle that is tapered to 9/16 inches at one end also gets bent.
The approximate angle for this is 85 degrees, but it needs to fit flush
against both the 1/8 inch flat plate, and the rib, so bend to fit.
Tom, San Antonio
80025 Just finishing flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
In a message dated 8/25/98 11:00:49 PM Central Daylight Time, bskinr(at)trib.com
writes:
> I'd be interested in others' thoughs on tight vs. loose chains. Beats a
> primer thread.
Bob,
I've tried it both ways on my RV-4, and I personally prefer chains that have
very little play. I like the positive, immediate steering response. You do
have to be careful not to over control, especially at higher speeds, but for
me that was easy to get used to.
I have a suggestion for people initially installing their chains, to help
prevent the slack from developing in the first place. Fully compress your
springs several times, prior to installing them, and prior to making your
chains the final length. This helps assure the spring is pretty close to its
final "length".
Tom Chapman
San Antonio
RV-4 735 hours
Working on RV-8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP Power Bus |
Von, check the archives for some info on this!
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>I am trying to decide whether to go with the EXP Power Bus by Control
Vision.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
| From: | seaok71302(at)Juno.com (mike a adams) |
Lloyd Morris:
Why don't you sell your kit, unsubscribe from the list and go find
something else to bitch about; I'm sure you won't have any trouble
finding something else you don't like in the world. We don't need people
like you in the RV community. Life is too short. I will refrain from
posting the exact words I'm thinking. I cannot think of a enterprise I
have delt with, more reasonable/fair/honest then Vans, you must be a
total jerk. (no personal attack intended, just a honest obsevation of
your post)
I promise you that you will
>not
>get one
>> bit of assistance from Vans once they have their payment in hand.
>You can
>not
>> assume they will ship by the most economical means and, if you think
>they
>> will, it can cost you just like it cost me. Also don't assume you
>will
>get a
>> call if the shipping is 2-3 time what it should be. As a matter of
>fact I
>> asked them why they couldn't just pick up the phone and call a
>customer
>when
>> something was obviously out of line such as this. Their response,
>"We
>don't
>> have time to call to discuss shipping arrangements." Keep in mind,
>they
>are
>> spending your money on freight and have no incentive to shop for a
>good
>price.
>>
>> Here is what we confirmed happened on this shipment. Apparently our
>zip
>code
>> is not a direct shipping point for Roadway who was the shipper. ABF
>would
>have
>> delivered for $250 to $300 since our zip is a direct shipping point
>for
>them.
>> I asked Vans why they didn't ship the finish kit ABF since it was so
>much
>> cheaper. Their reply was, "We alternate shippers." Looks like I got
>in
>the
>> wrong sequence! One thing that is so frustrating about the whole
>thing is
>that
>> even Roadway has direct shipping points within 5-6 miles of our
>location
>that
>> would have qualified for the same discounts we would have gotten
>from
>ABF. The
>> finish kit could have easily been shipped by ABF with no problem; by
>Roadway
>> it could have gone to a terminal or friend's house and given us the
>> opportunity to drive a couple of miles and pick it up with all the
>discounts
>> in place. Again, they are spending other people's money and there is
>no
>> incentive to shop around unless YOU make them. If you forget that,
>you
>will
>> get this response, "We ship FOB which means that once it leaves our
>shop,
>we
>> have nothing to do with it. Any dispute is between the customer and
>the
>> trucker." If Vans makes a mistake on your shipping their position
>will be
>WE
>> GOT OUR MONEY, WE CAN SHIP HOW WE PLEASE, TOO BAD IF YOU DON'T LIKE
>THE
>RATE
>> WE ACCEPTED FOR YOU. So much for customer service!
>>
>> Well, there it is. It is ancient history to me, as I am now on the
>finish
>kit
>> and don't even want to think about the whole sorry affair any more.
>I
>> sincerely hope it benefits some other builders who still have kits
>to
>order.
>> Make them clarify everything prior to shipping and don't take any
>crap
>from
>> them. Check with other builders in your area and make sure you are
>getting
>> rates in the same ballpark. If not, make Vans work for your business
>by
>> exploring your options. Don't feel like you are wasting their time
>because
>> they will sure waste your money if you let them.
>>
>> Lloyd Morris
>> RV-6, Starting finish kit
>> Lago Vista, TX
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken hoshowski <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
Doug, I am working on a similar problem, see my post of a couple of days
ago. I phoned Hartzell yesterday and they said check the hub carefully
for oil and grease leaks and any cracks in the hub. They also suggested
turning the prop 180 Degrees. If that didn't work to phone them. I
talked to Larry Feasel phone 937-778-4200. I was wondering if one
blade might be taking a bigger bite than the other. He said it was
possible but very unlikely.
Today I checked my prop and found to my dismay that 1/2 of the hub had
very little grease. The hub should be full. There are 4 fittings on
the hub, unscrew either the top 2 or the bottom 2 then apply the proper
prop grease in the zerk fitting until you get clean grease coming out
the hole you removed the fitting from. You must put grease in each of
the fittings. Test flight tomorrow to see what effect this gives. If
nothing then prop will be rotated. My prop was also dynamically
balanced, unfortunately they do the run up in fine pitch at 2500 rpm and
my problem doesn't start to show up until I reduce manifold pressure and
coursen the pitch. We are working on the process of elimination and have
eliminated a number of items. Email me direct if you wish. I will let
the list know what we discover .
Ken
> --Fellow Listers:
>
> Today I happened to go flying with a local RV-4 owner who recently
> converted his 0-320 160 hp machine to a constant speed prop. It's a
> great
> performing machine on this powerplant (168 kts TAS at 6500 MSL, 23"
> and
> 2400 rpm). However, this engine/prop combination as a pronounced high
>
> frequency vibration (almost a buzzing type vibration) as the rpm
> passes
> through 2200. Both above and below this rpm everything is very
> smooth. I
> have flown in one other RV-4 with the same hp/cs prop combination and
> it
> also had a similar vibration in this RPM range. My friend's prop has
> been
> dynamically balanced with no effect. Obviously this is some type of
> harmonic situation. Has anyone else observed such a harmonic
> vibration on
> 0-320 c/s prop combinations (I have ridden in several 180 hp/cs prop
> RV-4s
> and noticed no such vibration. Comments??
>
> ============
> Doug Weiler, RV-4 fuselage
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
In a message dated 8/25/98 6:10:18 PM Mountain Daylight Time, Jmw116(at)aol.com
writes:
> how much will it cost to send it to LA ,ca????
>
I'm afraid, more than it's worth. A person could build the thing for less than
$50 in an afternoon. It's just one of those things that if you don't have to
do sometimes it's easier to get started on the real project.
There just isn't much to the empennage jig, I just figured if somebody local
wanted it, it'd be better than sending it to the dump.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
<< I have a new sterba 69x82 prop on my 0320 powered -4. My friend
has -4 with an 0360 with a sterba 70x82. Mine cruises at 174
(True) at 2500 rpm, his at 195 at 2500 rpm. His climb will put
mine to shame. We both max out at 2600 rpm. Our tachs are
correct. I am assuming the difference in cruise would be because
his is cleaner than mine. I suppose a little difference in the
props pitch, or design, would be normal, but, almost 30 mph
difference is a lot. Just how much speed loss should one expect
if things are a little out of adjustment, here and there? I did
outrun another -4 with an 0-320 the other day, now he wants to
try my prop. His ship is very clean, compared to mine, so, maybe
mine isn't as bad as I thought. But, why the slow cruise
numbers? (Just looking for that 200). >>
Micheal,
Sounds like your a little overpitched. But if your buddy has the
same prop the numbers should be somewhat close. Are you comparing numbers or
are you actually flying next to one another? My experience has been that the
only way to find out how the other guy is really doing is to get up close and
personal ( a little formation work). This way you can eliminate the brag
factor and get to the truth. This eliminates the differences in airspeed
readings and so on.
Climb rates will vary by your weight, the airplanes weight and so on. In
other words if your carrying bagage or a passenger and he's not, or if his
airplane has a 100lb lighter empty weight, or if he weighs 70lbs less than you
physicaly, he will have a large climb advantage.
I consider my 4 to be a pretty clean airplane. I have flown with many other
4s and have done alot of comparing. I have found that even an airplane that is
not very clean (flying trash can) with the same prop and engine run within
around 5mph.
If your getting a max of 2600RPM thats pretty close. I like to see a max RPM
of around 2700rpm but 2600rpm is fine.
Get close to this guy, check it out and make sure he's not cheating ( He will
if he can). ;)
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Pat,
I'm sorry for trying to reach you this way but I thought this might work and
the other listers would get a chance to get this information also.
Where can I find the rubber gap seal you used for the wing-fuselage gap. I
need to replace mine and can't find one that looks as good as yours does.
Thanks in advance
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
Listers,
I am looking for somebody that is familiar with GPS antennas. I am having problems
with my Magellan EC-10X keeping a good fix. Antenna placement seems to be more
critical than my other GPS, both in the plane and in my back yard. I am using
the
factory provided white disc antenna (active).
I am told that there is no difference between this $60.00 antenna and the
$300.00 external antenna!! Truth or fiction?
Thanks in advance for your help.
--
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying in Southern MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES |
In a message dated 8/25/98 1:34:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com writes:
<< I guess it takes a multitude of opinions. >>
.............And speaking of opinions, here is another one. I drag raced for
quite a few years, and I believe that changing the oil is the single most
important thing you can do for engine longevity. You can use "Joe's Super
Slick" or "Tom's Teflon Lube" or whatever, but if you don't get the grit out,
the wear will occur. I have used the various products in my street engines,
and my race engines, and never had a problem, but I change oil in my street
engines every 3,000 miles. Is it excessive? NO !! I even had a Vega engine
last for 100,000 miles, and if you remember the Vega, they had an aluminum
engine with no cylinder sleeves, and were known to start self destructing at
about 10,000 miles. The oils on the market today are, for the most part, ALL
good, but heat breaks down their lubricating qualities over time, and your
engine is sucking in dirt as well as air with every stroke. It has been well
proven that you can't change your oil too often, only too rarely.
What's $30-$40 compared to what a top or major costs? If you want to use an
additive - go for it- but for changing your oil every 50 hours is the best you
can do to protect your engine.
I also don't think the issue of multi-vis vs. straight weight oil is worth
arguing, because I haven't seen engines using either one of the two self
destructing. I personally like straight weight oil, because I change it often
and compensate for the weather by changing viscosities in the summer and
winter. But, if one of you petrochemical engineers wants to set me straight,
feel free.
..........Another opinion in a veritable sea of opinions
Regards, Merle (Yes Virginia, auto engines CAN work in airplanes.... I hope)
Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
| Subject: | Drill in Assembly |
OK, I admit it... I was relaxing last night and was looking through the
drawings, sort of double checking the work I've done already. And, I
found out I drilled the holes on the horiz. stab. rear spar to the rear
spar channels - the ones marked "Drill in Assmebly with fuse." I didn't
rivet them. Is this a big deal? I know I shouldn't do it (and I didn't
on the other parts), but should I worry about these? I guess they may get
a bit oversized when I have to drill again to the fuse. Otherwise,
everything is going pretty good.
Thanks
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
Hope This isn't an insult to you, but have you installed the prop at the
correct 'clock' position as recmd by Lyc.?
If I remember correctly, with TDC set up, the prop goes from 10 to 4
o'clock as you face it from th front. It did make a slight amount of
difference on mine at first.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap bracket |
<< Listers
Plans for the rv-8 flap bracket call for a 88 degree bend in the large angle
component that rivets to the foreward spar. How is this bend made short of
hammering in a vise? Is it necessary or is the 88 degree refering to the 3/4
angle stock that lays on the rib flange and connects it to the large "plate"
member?
Many thanks
Dennis Clay #80473
>>
You will need to bend that big angle. Make the bend BEFORE you trim it to
size, using a manly vise and the appropriate sized impact instrument (BFH).
This is a change from the -4 and -6 construction style. I would say that if
you can't bend the angle, you can bend the plate, as is done on the -4 and the
-6. Scott? How does the proto shop do this?
You have your assignment...
Check six!
mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | multiple messages |
<< > For some reason I keep getting multiple posts of Mark Frederick's
messages;
> anyone else?
Yep, everyone else, too. Maybe it has something to do with six
cylinders instead of four?
Will Cretsinger
>>
Alright fellas:
Thanks, Will.
It seems the AOL folks like me so much that all my stuff is sent in multiples.
I recieve some messages from the list in twos also. I re-loaded the software
to no avail. They claim to be aware of the problem, but what the heck good
does that do?
Maybe they are using the wrong primer???
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
Listers:
I have a vibe situation too. I went so far as to get some Houston NASA folks
to analyse the construction of my airframe! It seems that all the balancing in
the world won't help- it's more due to the size of the blades (wider chord- 7"
on my bird @ 12" from the tip) and the resulting pulse of pressure at lower
(or certain) RPM.
I've been told that the 4 cyl Lyc has a vibe in the 1100 RPM range (mine
w/conical mounts did). Would this transfer to 2200 RPM also?
While playing around with different RPM/MP combos one day, I discovered that
20"/2000 RPM for a descent was VERY smooth- I thought the engine had quit. You
may want to try this on your ship.
Check your baffling, hoses, wiring, and anything else that may be rubbing
slightly under the cowl. I have a feeling that my breather line (tight against
the engine mount) is causing some of the "magic fingers" effect on my ship.
Some engine/prop/airframe combos have a RPM range that you shouldn't operate
in- check certified ships with a similiar setup for this info. I recall a
Husky I flew (180w/ c/s prop) had this range at the RPM you mention.
Please post your findings to the list!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | multiple messages |
<< > For some reason I keep getting multiple posts of Mark Frederick's
messages;
> anyone else?
Yep, everyone else, too. Maybe it has something to do with six
cylinders instead of four?
Will Cretsinger
>>
Alright fellas:
Thanks, Will.
It seems the AOL folks like me so much that all my stuff is sent in multiples.
I recieve some messages from the list in twos also. I re-loaded the software
to no avail. They claim to be aware of the problem, but what the heck good
does that do?
Maybe they are using the wrong primer???
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List spark plugs |
try rem37by plugs, I've used them and they work good and stay clean...George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
Rod, I'm here in Denver and I NEED it! Please email me and let me know
when I can pick it up. Thanks!
// s //
Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
ICQ# 11770815
RV-6A (empennage)
N188FW (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Todd:Go to http:// joe.mehaffey.com----All the info you'll ever need on
GPS,including antenna tests....Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Gesele <tgesele(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
Thanks to all who replyed both on & off the list. I think I'll opt
for maximum safety and either shoot the stuff outside, well away from
the house, or off premises; setting up a drying area in a shed in the
back yard where I'll store everything for a day or two..
Now, since I've broken the ice with a primer question, should that
third wheel go in front or back? (Just kidding :), Please don't even
think about replying!!)
Tom Gesele RV-6(#25465)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Hints on URL posting . . . |
It's really handy to embed URLs (internet addresses) into your
e-mail messages, especially to list-server posts where the information
found at that address is useful to so many other readers. The other
neat property of a properly posted URL is that most browsers and
e-mail readers recognize the string of characters that make up a
valid URL and alow you to simply "click" it to launch a browser
trip to that site.
I've observed a variety of errors in URL posting that tend to negate
the automated features in our e-mail software. Here's an excerpt
from some guidlines I read somewhere else on the net:
(1) put a URL into your message so that it stays on one line.
(2) enclose the URL in the right and left carrot < > symbols.
(3) make sure it's complete . . . "www" is often left out of the
URL address . . . everything's got to be there. Take advantage
of your browser's "copy" and "paste" features if it has them.
When visiting a site you'd like to quote, use copy to capture
the string into Windows clipboard, toggle back to your
e-mail and use paste to put it into your message . . . this
all but guarantees that all the dots, slashes, dashes and
upper case letters are exactly where they need to be.
(4) make sure there are no extraneous spaces injected into the
URL . . . many of us carry the typing class induced habit
of automatically inserting one or more spaces after a period.
This will contaminate a URL and make it ineffective.
Here's how I quote URLs:
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html>
I toggled over to my broswer, logged onto the address I wanted
to quote . . . didn't get any Error 404 messages and the page
to quote came right up. Highlighted the address with the mouse,
and clicked edit-copy. Toggled back to my e-mail program and
put the cursor where I wanted the address to appear and clicked
edit-paste. All I had to add was the symbols.
If your software is set up right, you should be able to click
the line above with your mouse and jump right to the quoted
site address.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Hill <hill(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling rudder stiffeners |
I'm working on the RV-8 rudder and have a simple question...
The stiffener starts 1/8 from the spar and ends 3/16 from the trailing edge.
The rivits are shown starting 1/4 from the spar and ending 3/4 from the
trailing edge.
________________________________________________________________________________
only 1/8" into the stiffener while the trailing edge rivit will be 9/16 from
the end of the stiffiner. Is this correct? Does a rivit only 1/8" into the
stiffiner provide enough edge distance, it looks awfully close? Is the
trialing edge rivit really that far up the stiffener (over 1/2")?
I'm sure this is simple, but being the first time doing it I don't want to
make a mistake and have to remake all the stiffeners.
Thanks!
Chris Hill
RV-8 rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List spark plugs |
<< try rem37by plugs, I've used them and they work good and stay
clean...George
Orndorff >>
Let me tell you about REM37BY's. I had a set of eight in my O-320 from the
days of trying the Electro-Air ignition which I ultimately gave up on. They
do stay very clean. When I went back to a two-mag setup, I put Rem40E's in
the tops and kept 4 of the 37BY's in the bottom "to keep them out of the oil
and such." (Longer nose on the plug, but burns colder, so maybe this is not
such a bright idea??)
The other day, while doing stop-and-go landings, I experienced a 300 rpm drop
on one mag. Leaned to the max at 2100 rpm to try to un-foul the plugs - no
joy. Back to the hangar, cowling off, pull plugs... One of the 37BY's had a
center electrode that had shifted back into the insulator enough to open the
gap from .016 to over .060! With pliers, you could pull the electrode in and
out that far (but no further). My A&P said he had never seen the likes of it
in 25 years.
Now I am running eight REM40E's, and being thankful that the electrode didn't
come out of the plug altogether and drop into the cylinder.
I know this was a fluke, but it made me leery of that model of Champion plug
just the same. "Your mileage may vary."
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drill in Assembly |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>OK, I admit it... I was relaxing last night and was looking through
>the
>drawings, sort of double checking the work I've done already. And, I
>found out I drilled the holes on the horiz. stab. rear spar to the
>rear
>spar channels - the ones marked "Drill in Assmebly with fuse." I
>didn't
>rivet them. Is this a big deal? I know I shouldn't do it (and I
>didn't
>on the other parts), but should I worry about these? I guess they may
>get
>a bit oversized when I have to drill again to the fuse. Otherwise,
>everything is going pretty good.
>
>Thanks
>
>Joe
>
>
Joe,
Since you said you drilled but didn't rivet does hat mean that the are
still #30 sized pilot holes? If so, then I'm sure you are OK.
If they are finished up to 3/16 (#12) you are probably still ok but it
just reduces your options for readjusting the position slightly.
The fuse. bars that these holes mate up to are pretty good size and allow
for some variation. Don't worry about it right now.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachments |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I agree with Bob Skinner on loose tail wheet chains. After flying a
>year or so with loose chains I thought I would try them tight.
>Taxiing
>was much more difficult, so after one circuit it was back to the
>hanger
>and loose chains again. It' what you get used to and feel comfortable
>with. To each his own I guess!
>
Another reason to try loose tail wheel chains is for in flight trim.
When the weight is off the tail spring in flight the chains tend to get
even a bit tighter than when on the ground. This coupled with the
friction in the tail wheel swivel point and the chains them self can
effect the yaw trim of the airplane by preventing the rudder from finding
its natural trimmed position after being displaced by the pilot.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Dallas RV Builders? |
I've just been reposted to Dallas and wanted to try to contact any RV
builders in the area. I will be living in Addison.
Please post off list if you are in the Dallas area.
Gary Fesenbek
Roanoke, VA
*************************************************
* Gary Fesenbek
*
* Meridium Inc.
*
* (540) 344-9205 x112
*
* gfesenbek(at)meridium.com
*
* http://www.meridium.com
*
*************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EDDIERV6A(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling rudder stiffeners |
Hi!
I am building an RV6A, but following the videos from George and Beky. My
experience is as far as you are 1/4 from the trealing edge and the stifener,
no problem. Remember, you have to bend that edge with your wooded break. If
your are to close to the edge is going to show. It happend to me. Rivets,
use the rule of 12D max and mim 2.5D.
Good luck.
Eddie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
I too had GPS antenna problems. I have a Garmin 90 and started by
mounting the original flip up antenna on the glare shield. It seemed to
work well there but it was too close to the com antenna. Everytime I
would transmit, I would overload the GPS and it would shut itself down,
requiring a full reinitialization to get going again. I then tried
mounting it elsewhere on the glareshield, but even in the far corner,
the problem persisted.
The next attempt was to extend the antenna wire and put it behind the
roll bar structure, looking through the back of the canopy. However, at
that location, I couldn't pick up enough satellites to make it function.
Garmin said that there is a limit to how long an extension coax can be
before its resistance will cause errors in the signal.
Instead, they sold me a remote "active" antenna for about $90. (They
also sell an amplified version for about $300) I mounted it in the same
place behind the roll structure, and it works great. I will always have
6-7 satelites all at from 80-90% strength.
I suppose if I were using the GPS as a sole means of vertical
information during IFR approaches, I might want the expensive amplified
version; but for normal navigational purposes the $90 type is just
great.
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Wire size, Engine compartment wire routing |
Hi Tim,
Looks like you're making good progress. I also used the # 4 wire for the
starter and battery for an O-320. I used #10 wire (shielded) from the
alternator to the regulator. Used the same from the alternator to the bus.
Routed wires under the cylinders. Others here did the same.
For shielded wire, are you grounding the shielding on both ends or is one
end sufficient?
Bob
San Antonio
RV-6; wheel pants
--Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis [SMTP:timrv6a(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 5:55 PM
To: SportAV8R(at)aol.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wire size, Engine compartment wire
routing
On 25 Aug 98, at 15:11, SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
> Sorry to nit-pick, Tim, but AN-6 is a bolt; 6 AWG is a wire. ;-)
> Forgive me - I just flew off the last of my 25 hrs yesterday and
I'm too
> full of myself as a result.
I quoted from the FAA's AC 43.13-1A (Change 3, 1988) which lists
WIRE sizes
(not bolts) from AN-000 to AN-20, with AN-6 being somewhere in the
middle.
Bolts are normally listed as AN3-something, rather than
AN-something.
Anyway, how did you route your wiring (inside the engine
compartment) to your
starter and alternator? Did your wiring run under the cylinders,
beside the
cylinders (on the baffling), or what?
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
In a message dated 8/26/98 7:43:47 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Rod, I'm here in Denver and I NEED it! Please email me and let me know
> when I can pick it up. Thanks!
Hello Brad,
Somebody from Laramie, WY beat you to the punch. He's coming down on Sunday to
pick it up. If something happens and he doesn't take it, I'll send you an e-
mail.
Sorry.... I _do_ still have a virtually untouched wing kit I'm trying to
sell.... you'd save about $700 over buying it from Van's...no waiting!
Best regards,
Rod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | RV bookstore suggestions??? |
I am putting together a new catalog and would like to hear from those of
you who have ordered from us before, or have seen our older catalog or
web site.
Is there anything missing which you would like to see us include?
Is there something which you have used with your own project that we do
not carry, but which you think might help others?
some new items which we are already adding are:
RV-8 Finishing Kit Video
Orndorff's Certification Procedures Video
Textron-Lycoming 0-320 / 0-360 Overhaul Manual
Aerodynamics For Naval Aviators (highly requested)
I am also considering a software product called PANEL PLANNER, but would
first like to hear any comments from people who have used this.
Any other comments about how we can make RV-ation Bookstore work better
for you are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachments |
Has anyone tried a direct link between the rudder horn and the tail wheel
using a 3/8 inch steel tube and rod end bearings? This proved to be an
excellent arrangement on my Tailwing (and hundreds of others). Should be a
good solution on the RV-6.
Bob, San Antonio
RV-6; wheel pants
-----Original Message-----
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com [SMTP:smcdaniels(at)Juno.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 9:31 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachments
MCDANIELS)
>I agree with Bob Skinner on loose tail wheet chains. After flying
a
>year or so with loose chains I thought I would try them tight.
>Taxiing
>was much more difficult, so after one circuit it was back to the
>hanger
>and loose chains again. It' what you get used to and feel
comfortable
>with. To each his own I guess!
>
Another reason to try loose tail wheel chains is for in flight trim.
When the weight is off the tail spring in flight the chains tend to
get
even a bit tighter than when on the ground. This coupled with the
friction in the tail wheel swivel point and the chains them self can
effect the yaw trim of the airplane by preventing the rudder from
finding
its natural trimmed position after being displaced by the pilot.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire size, Engine compartment wire routing |
> Wire routing question: How have folks routed the starter and alternator
> lines in the engine compartment? Can the lines go under the cylinders (but
> above the exhaust pipes) without overheating? Should I route the wires
> along the outsides of the baffles to keep the wires cooler?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6AQ N47TD
> Springfield, VA
Tim,
I used #2 welding cable for my starter and ground cables, and AWG 6 for my
alternator "B" lead. I routed them under the cylinders and used two clamps
butterflied together and supported them from the cylinder head oil drain
tubes. I think I've got some photos laying around that would show how my
routing goes, let me know if you want to see 'em, and I'll scan 'em and send
'em to you.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
> Has anyone else observed such a harmonic vibration on
> 0-320 c/s prop combinations (I have ridden in several 180 hp/cs prop RV-4s
> and noticed no such vibration. Comments??
>
>
> ============
> Doug Weiler, RV-4 fuselage
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
I have a Hartzell c/s prop on my IO-320B1A. I had it dynamically balanced at
2400 rpm. The guy that balanced it, his machine only uses one accelerometer
that's attached to the crankcase. Initially, his machine showed .4 ips, and we
were able to get it down to where his machine would no longer register. I
could tell a difference right away on the flight home, but flying at 2200 rpm
seems smoother than 2400. The only reason I can think of for this, is that the
whole airframe/engine combination on my plane just naturally has a sweet spot
at 2200. It's just smoother and quieter there, so on my cross countries I try
to use 8500', 22" map, and 2200 rpm for 65% power and 7.2 gph, and 170 TAS.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
> I am having problems
> with my Magellan EC-10X keeping a good fix. Antenna placement seems to be
> more
> critical than my other GPS, both in the plane and in my back yard. I am
> using the
> factory provided white disc antenna (active).
> I am told that there is no difference between this $60.00 antenna and
the
> $300.00 external antenna!! Truth or fiction?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> --
> Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying in Southern MD
Well, I'm no expert on antennas, but I do have a GPS, and here's my
experience. I've got a panel mounted Garmin GNC-300 GPS/comm, and I mounted
the antenna on the top skin, just aft of the center rail for the sliding
canopy. I've noticed on start up, that if the canopy's closed, the GPS aquires
all of its satellites faster. With the canopy open, it's forward of the
antenna by about 4 inches, and must block part of the sky. While maneuvering,
any bank beyond about 60 degrees will cause it to lose satellite reception and
stop navigating, but it picks back up within a couple of seconds of rolling
back level.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
http://www.joe.mehaffey.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
> Why don't you sell your kit, unsubscribe from the list and go find
> something else to bitch about; I'm sure you won't have any trouble
> finding something else you don't like in the world. We don't need people
> like you in the RV community. Life is too short
I don't believe that any possible good can come from salvos of
vicious invective toward another RVer. We are supposed to be at least
friends if not family. If you can't talk to your family, whom can you talk
to ? Don't tell him to quit and get out. Gov't does that job very well and
on our dollars.
Granted, he is peed off. $300 after tax may be of enough concern to get
worked up about. He worked for it. He can at least talk about it.
You should hear what some consumers say to a woman or young girl in retail
sales about $1.00 or less ! You would happily punch them out if it was
directed at your girl!
Sad thing is that when he gets the RV flying, he won't know whether
the other RV guys he meets are with him or agin him.....Nuff said....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kip Haas" <khaas(at)firstam.com> |
I am looking to contact any RV builders in Orange County California. I am
just starting my second hs-810 :) Please reply off list if you would like to
get in contact.
Kip Haas (qqqkhaas(at)firstam.com remove qqq to reply)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wire size, Engine compartment wire routing |
com>
>Looks like you're making good progress. I also used the # 4 wire for the
>starter and battery for an O-320. I used #10 wire (shielded) from the
>alternator to the regulator. Used the same from the alternator to the bus.
>
>Routed wires under the cylinders. Others here did the same.
>
>For shielded wire, are you grounding the shielding on both ends or is one
>end sufficient?
FYI . . . there is no measurable benefit to shielding the alternator
b-lead. This practice showed up back in the 60s when we were fighting
alternator noises in ADF installations on the Cessnas. There were
NO quantitative investigations of the benefits of any "fix" that was
tried . . . only pilot reports. I wasn't privy to the reasoning
years since, lots of work on other airplanes, work in EMI laboratories
and changes to alternator technologies make shielding of the b-lead
even less likely to be a benefit. It certainly doesn't hurt but it
doesn't help either. If you do want this shield to do whatever it
going to do best, ground it at the alternator end only.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Parking Brake Questions |
The way I understand it, the parking brake valve goes between the fluid
reservoir and the copilot master cylinders. A tee goes in the line
downstream from the valve in order to supply both master cylinders. Is
that correct?
Second question. Is the plastic brake line supplied by Van's OK for use
downstream from the parking brake valve? In other words, is the
pressure rating of the plastic line adequate considering the pressure
present when the parking valve is closed?
Ken Harrill
RV-6, fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin lane" <n3773(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | never too rich or too lean? |
After 250 hrs on my totally rebuilt O-320/160hp D2J I was experiencing
power loss. I pulled the new ECI steel cylinders to discover piston
scorching and glazed cylinder walls, compressions in the low 60's. I have
3hrs on the new rings and honed cylinders and am still seeing 400 degree
CHT and EGT's near 1400. I am worried that I am running too lean a
mixture. I have the correct carb. Earlier I drilled the main jet from the
original 3/32 to #40 and seemed to notice a smoother running engine,
especially at idle. Originally I had egt & cht only on cyl#4. The pistons
were scorched all the same amount. I ran the oil temp up once to 230, but
it typically remained right at 180. The cht & egt's always seemed to be
about 325/1350. With sensors on all 4 cyl's now I get 325 on #4(bayonet
type) and 400 on the other 3(which have the spark plug type sensor).
SO, am I running too lean? Should I try enlarging to say #39, #38? I
noticed some fuel staining around the accelerator pump stem. Could that be
the cause? The float level checks out, the one piece venturi appears to be
installed correctly. I have never felt that I was able to lean an
additional amount when reaching 12,000', perhaps 1/4". Does that mean
anything?
Tom Green suggested I run it without the air cleaner once and see if that
has an effect. I'll try that today.
Does anyone in Portland have an extra carb I could try running?
Please respond to my personal address. kevin RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roncace, Robert A" <Robert.Roncace(at)west.boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
Acetone will take off EVERYTHING, including ink from so-called "permanent"
marking
pens. Caution: if you hold the wiping rag bare handed you should expect to
lose the
oil out of your skin, too.
Bob Roncace
Planning for second try at an RV-6
(Previously built RV-6 tail kit in '88/89 then sold it in '95)
Can any listers reccommend a cleaning agent to use when
preparing my wing
skins and ribs for proseal application.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partiain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAHHHHH
Shut up and go pound rivets!!!!! Prozac anyone ????
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ethereal(at)SPAMnet.att.net (Student Pilot) |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
I have been followng this thread and i don't think Lloyd sounds like a
jerk. YOU on the other hand sound EXACTLY like a jerk.
(oh BTW no personal attack intended, just an honest observation) (note
the corrected grammar)
>
>Lloyd Morris:
>
>Why don't you sell your kit, unsubscribe from the list and go find
>something else to bitch about; I'm sure you won't have any trouble
>finding something else you don't like in the world. We don't need people
>like you in the RV community. Life is too short. I will refrain from
>posting the exact words I'm thinking. I cannot think of a enterprise I
>have delt with, more reasonable/fair/honest then Vans, you must be a
>total jerk. (no personal attack intended, just a honest obsevation of
>your post)
>
>
>
(replace SPAMnet with worldnet in email address to reply)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen, Brent" <BAllen(at)uci.edu> |
Hello Kip,
Nice to hear the neighborhood is improving. :-) Not sure how
much I can help you though as I'm a first time builder with little metal
experience. I did get the 610 and 614 done the first time (I think
they're OK), but I must have read through 100 back postings to the list
on them, and probably took as many hours. :-)
I'm in Woodbridge, and normally home on the weekends, and before
9am, and after 7pm mid week.
I'm a member of the EAA OC Chapter 92, they usually meet the
first Wednesday of the month. Some skilled builders there.
Brent Allen
BAllen(at)uci.edu
949-551-3209 (H)
-----Original Message-----
From: Kip Haas [mailto:khaas(at)firstam.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 9:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: Orange County
I am looking to contact any RV builders in Orange County California. I
am
just starting my second hs-810 :) Please reply off list if you would
like to
get in contact.
Kip Haas (qqqkhaas(at)firstam.com remove qqq to reply)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
***** Begin Satire *****
Announcing New Mailing List - RVFlame!
Subscription instructions -
send message to listserv(at)analogia.com, include command "subscribe rvflame"
in body of message.
RVFlame mailing list charter - Personal attacks, intentional
misunderstandings, and inflamatory language _only_. Grammar flames are
especially appreciated. Questions on building or flying fun homebuild
aircraft will result in expulsion.
Remember, future RVFlame list members, always send flames to the entire
list. You took the time to write it, everyone else on the list should take
the time to read it. Besides, you're always right, it will save everyone
else time if you tell them how to think.
Survey - I'm thinking of automatically adding the people who have sent 30+
Bend Over messages in the last 5 days. Do you agree that these people
should have their own sandbox?
***** End Satire *****
1) I really did create the mailing list. You can join it if you like.
2) If you want to flame someone, please send it _directly_ to that person,
not the entire RV-List list. Not only do we not want to read your personal
attack, we don't want to read the half-dozen defenders of your target.
3) The original poster had a very good point ("Be careful about shipping
charges"), and a not-so-good presentation ("Bend over & shut up"). We now
have half a dozen people supporting the good point fighting a half dozen
people opposing the rude presentation. Please, take it to direct email.
4) I call on all RVFlamers to take the Pledge:
"I pledge I will not make any more personal attacks or off-topic
postings on the RV-List. I pledge I will send necessary flames directly to
the guilty party, sparing everyone else on the mailing list."
5) If you feel the need to flame me, please flame me directly
, not by sending a message to the RV-List.
Thanks.
--
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com
-----Original Message-----
From:
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bend over & shut up
[snip]
>I have been followng this thread and i don't think [snip] sounds like a
>jerk. YOU on the other hand sound EXACTLY like a jerk.
>
>(oh BTW no personal attack intended, just an honest observation) (note
>the corrected grammar)
>
>
[snip]
>>
>>Why don't you sell your kit, unsubscribe from the list and go find
>>something else to bitch about; I'm sure you won't have any trouble
>>finding something else you don't like in the world. We don't need people
>>like you in the RV community. Life is too short. I will refrain from
>>posting the exact words I'm thinking. I cannot think of a enterprise I
>>have delt with, more reasonable/fair/honest then Vans, you must be a
>>total jerk. (no personal attack intended, just a honest obsevation of
>>your post)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pat Walker <walker(at)windermere.com> |
| Subject: | subscription to the list |
sirs,
please unsubscribe my e-mail from the rv-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Time for Peace (Re: Bend Over) |
May I take on the role as peace maker. The problem with Lloyd's comment re:
Vans, and several of the responses to Lloyd's comment, is that much of the
commentary were high on opinions and sparse on the proper sharing of factual
information. As a potential builder of an RV-8a, I look to these postings
for information--both positive and negative. Shipping costs can become a
concern--so it is important to learn about other's experiences. Having said
this, the tone of Lloyd's e-mail was confrontational and yes, offensive.
However, responding to this by calling him a "jerk" just adds to
confrontational and offensiveness. I think we got enough of this during
Monday night's Clinton "apology".
Two suggestions: can we state facts and minimize "editorializing".
Secondly, and not related to this, I've just found two builders relatively
close to me by accident. It sure would help if when you signature your
e-mail you add the city you are in.
Okay. That's my 2 cents.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
Ysing acetone here in Aurora usually gets looks from people who like to make "other
things" with acetone.....jolly
Roncace, Robert A wrote:
>
> Acetone will take off EVERYTHING, including ink from so-called "permanent"
> marking
> pens. Caution: if you hold the wiping rag bare handed you should expect to
> lose the
> oil out of your skin, too.
>
> Bob Roncace
> Planning for second try at an RV-6
> (Previously built RV-6 tail kit in '88/89 then sold it in '95)
>
>
>
> Can any listers reccommend a cleaning agent to use when
> preparing my wing
> skins and ribs for proseal application.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Di Meo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
Doug,
I don't know what the case is with your friend's combination of prop and engine
but there are several certified aircraft that have a "no prolonged operation" RPM
band because of potentially destructive harmonics. I had a Piper Arrow with a band
that ran from 2100 to 2300 RPM in which you were not supposed to operate because
of this.
Your friend could check with the engine and propeller manufacturers on the
combination to see if this is the case here.
Regards,
Bob
RV8 #423 building wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling rudder stiffeners |
> I'm working on the RV-8 rudder and have a simple question...
>
> >From my calculations this means The first rivit in the stiffener will be
> only 1/8" into the stiffener while the trailing edge rivit will be 9/16 from
> the end of the stiffiner. Is this correct? Does a rivit only 1/8" into the
> stiffiner provide enough edge distance, it looks awfully close? Is the
> trialing edge rivit really that far up the stiffener (over 1/2")?
Remember you're going to have to deburr, dimple, and rivet that last hole.
If it's too close to the trailing edge, that's going to be very difficult.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Listers,
Anybody out there with a Vetterman exhaust on an RV-6A? While I'm in
waiting for my engine and mount to come back from overhaul, I though it
might be a good time to correct some of the items that have been bugging
me. I currently have an Allen Toll exhaust that, after welding three
times, seemed to be doing quite OK for the last 1000 Hrs. But this front
gear incident has introduced a few cracks in new places, so it might be a
good time to put in the Vetterman system. But I have the following
questions:
1. Does the Vetterman system allow for easier oil changing? The Tolle
system requires a scoop (made from a 2 liter bottle) as the exhaust pipe
is very close to the drain plug on my O320-D1A engine.
2. Can a "Quick Drain" be used with the Vetterman exhaust? (please don't
flame me yet, I still may not use it. But if it can be used, then it
tells me something about the exhaust plumbing...)
3. What else will I need if I order this from Van's? Are all the hangers
included? If not, what did you use????
4. Are there any cowl clearance problems? I have the original kit "Long
Cowl" (requires a 4" prop extension...)
Thanks in advance....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)ee.cit.ac.nz> |
> I suppose if I were using the GPS as a sole means of vertical
> information during IFR approaches, I might want the expensive amplified
> version; but for normal navigational purposes the $90 type is just
> great.
I wouldn't rely on GPS for vertical information. Ever. No matter what
antenna I had. The inherent errors due to satellite geometry are just too
large.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Response to Rumor Control |
204-211,213-276,278,280,282,284,286,288,290,292-296
| From: | airflowinc(at)Juno.com (Donald J Rivera) |
Thank you Mark (mlfred(at)aol.com) for bring this rumor to my attention.
This is one of the big problems with the Internet. People say things
that can ruin a company's reputation and other people that read this
slanderous crap believe it. I don't understand why people do not get
their facts straight before spreading rumors that are untrue. I have
half a mind to go after the person spreading these rumors for defamation
of character, mental anguish, loss of business and just plain wasting my
time. But that only makes the lawyers rich. The RV-4 flyer that claimed
to have almost total power failure on takeoff was really experiencing
some other problems with her plane. When we got back her Bendix Servo
which she purchased from us as an experimental RSA in 1994 (not an
Airflow Servo) we did what is called an R.A.R., which is run as received.
The test results were compared to the original data and was found to be
within 1 to 2 PPH of the original. We then called up the pilot and
explained that she must be having other related problems on her aircraft
as everything checked out on her unit. We suggested things to check on
the engine and aircraft. She was positive there was a problem with her
servo. Her mechanic told her so. We sent back the unit and called a few
days later to see if she had found out her problem, (does this sound like
a company who doesn't care?). She claimed that we gave her a different
unit, that we didn't understand that engines ran different at 6000 ft.
and I was a "flat lander" (well actually I'm from California). We said "
no, we returned the same unit she sent" which was the original unit she
had. The serial numbers were the same (they had written down the parts
list number as being the serial number) our records state that the unit
that is installed on her RV now , is the same as the one shipped in 1994.
She got back the very same servo with no adjustments made to it (well
maybe UPS opened the box and put a new data plate on it ......RIGHT). We
do not know what kind of problems they had, but evidently something was
done differently. She did mention in passing that she had put new mags
on recently.
As to the claim that the manufacture is not an aviation person and comes
from the race boat industry, it is obviously that this person definitely
did not do his or her homework. I grew up in the aviation industry. My
father was the Bendix Representative on the fuel metering systems for the
Military and civilian aircraft. My father and I started a plans built
Starduster Too while I was in high school. When I was 17 years old I
installed an RSA-5 Fuel Servo on my Corvair (not a big success but it
kind of worked). I took flying lessons and got my private pilots license
when I was 19 years old. I went to A&P school at Glendale College and
worked at Santa Paula Airport as an A&P for a short time. After I
decided that I didn't want to turn wrenches all my life, I went on to
college to get a Bachelor degree in Mechanical Engineering (Northrop
Institute of Technology). In the summers of college I worked as an A&P.
After graduating from college, I was hired by the Bendix Corporation in
South Bend, Indiana. I worked for two years on the M-1 tank program and
then switched departments and worked on the RSA Fuel Servo program. I
was trained under the inventor of the RSA, Elmer Haase. He was a very
interesting and intelligent person. I was fortunate to be able to work
with him for about 8 years and tried to learn as much of his knowledge as
I could. He was one heck of a great mentor, I still miss talking with
him. He died about 4 years ago. One of my other bosses is still alive,
Jimmy Kirwin, and we still keep in contact. I pick his brain sometimes
when I get stumped. When I left Bendix in 1983 I was the Senior Project
Engineer on the Bendix RSA Servos. The main reason I left was that they
were selling off the RSA line to Precision Airmotive. It was at that
time that I decided to start my own business and using my knowledge from
Bendix and being a license A&P, I designed my own version of a Fuel Servo
for experimental aviation. We are the only shop in the US outside of
Precision Airmotive that have an airbox to simulate how the fuel
controller actually works in the airplane. Yes, we did race cars and
boats, back in the beginning and got kicked out of a lot of the race boat
circuits because the factories did not like losing to a little nobody
like us. We still install Airflow systems on racing applications
today. Most of our work for the last 11 years has been in the airplane
industry. We have delivered over 800 systems for aircraft use. Our
products are on a lot of the airshow performers airplanes, like Sean D.
Tucker, Patty Wagstaff, Steve Oliver, Gene Soucy, Jim LeRoy, Wayne
Hanley, as well as on the factory Stewart S-51. We pride ourselves on
providing all of our customers with the best quality of craftsmanship we
can. We know that all of our customers need good parts and try our very
best to do it correct the first time as there may not be a second chance.
This is our business and livelihood, we can not afford to be doing the
same work over the second time as there is not a high mark up on our
labor or parts. We also do Bendix Overhauls for experimental aircraft
and just recently got our FAA part 145 license for working the Bendix
servos for certified aircraft. We have been working with several engines
shops for years such as Ly-Con of Visalia, California; Barrett
Performance Aircraft of Tulsa, OK; and Don George, Inc. of Orlando,
Florida.
Colleen got her start at the Bendix Corporation in South Bend, Indiana as
well. She worked in the lab for 10 years as a technician on a lot of the
military fuel metering systems. At one time she worked on the
environmental testing of the fuel control for the SR-71, and worked on
the air motors that operate the jet nozzle on our front line fighters
like the F-15 and F-16. She wears the most hats at Airflow Performance
keeping the office running smoothly, but she still helps in the shop when
needed.
And yes, our complete kits are expensive. But you have to look at what
you are getting for your money. The kit for an RV 360 is around $2600.
This includes the fuel control, mounting adapter, throttle and mixture
cable brackets, flow divider, mounting bracket, purge valve, injector
nozzles, nozzle lines, fittings, clamp kit, Van's airbox adapter, high
pressure electric boost pump, fuel filter, and the Teflon firesleeved
fuel hoses to connect the engine driven fuel pump to the fuel controller
and from the fuel controller to the flow divider. The fuel controller by
itself is around $1200. Sure there's junked out RSA's around for $500.
Is your airplane or your life worth that?
We hope that this has given some people a little insight of who we are
and what we do, all we ask is that they please come to us with their
questions and concerns as we are the experts in the field of OUR
products, and a lot of the Bendix RSA products. Before going and
spreading someone else's fiction make sure you have all your facts
straight, you would not want someone spreading vicious rumors about you
that are not true and can cause you a lot of undue stress and maybe
having to close up your business. What about the 800 Airflow Systems
and over 600 overhauled Bendix Systems. Doesn't that say anything about
our reputation?
PLEASE PEOPLE, GET YOUR FACTS STRAIGHT BEFORE MAKING ACCUSATIONS.
Donald Rivera.............Airflow Performance, Inc.
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
Subject: Fwd: RV-List: Looking for a 200 hp engine
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 10:12:19 EDT
I thought you might want to read this...
Mark
<< Subj: Re: RV-List: Looking for a 200 hp engine
Date: 98-08-17 22:18:53 EDT
From: akroguy(at)hotmail.com (Brian Denk)
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>> Airflow Performance has a fuel injection system for experimental
aircraft
>> that is available for approx. $1500 or so.
>> I have no direct experience with it , but I'm sure there are a number
of
>> people on the list that can give you more info.
>>
>I called these people and they quoted me $2600 for O-360.
>
>Too pricey for me
>
>Brian Eckstein
I have heard some "not good" things about the Airflow Performance system
from a local RV-4 flyer. This pilot experienced an almost total power
failure on takeoff and would have ended up in the trees if it weren't
for the 8,000 runway being used at the time. The injector was sent to
the manufacturer, and they stated that nothing was wrong with it.
However, the serial number on the throttle body was different than the
original unit when it was returned. Hmm...
Evidently, the manufacturer is not an aviation person...and comes from
the race boat industry. This person had a hard time understanding the
full impact of a loss of power in an aircraft, versus in a boat.
After the "repaired" injector was installed, it worked great and has
been running fine since. The design of the unit seems to be OK, but in
the event problems arise, the factory support seems to be lacking. At
any rate, $2600 is waaaay too steep for me as well. So now I'm down to
choosing between a Bendix (also expensive) and the Ellison TBI.
The above comments are purely second hand, and do not represent my
personal experiences.
Happy and SAFE flying to all...
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
fuselage taking shape
>>
air-za04.mail.aol.com
-0700 (PDT)
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for a 200 hp engine
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:50:39 PDT
>>
>> Airflow Performance has a fuel injection system for experimental
aircraft
>> that is available for approx. $1500 or so.
>> I have no direct experience with it , but I'm sure there are a number
of
>> people on the list that can give you more info.
>>
>I called these people and they quoted me $2600 for O-360.
>
>Too pricey for me
>
>Brian Eckstein
I have heard some "not good" things about the Airflow Performance system
from a local RV-4 flyer. This pilot experienced an almost total power
failure on takeoff and would have ended up in the trees if it weren't
for the 8,000 runway being used at the time. The injector was sent to
the manufacturer, and they stated that nothing was wrong with it.
However, the serial number on the throttle body was different than the
original unit when it was returned. Hmm...
Evidently, the manufacturer is not an aviation person...and comes from
the race boat industry. This person had a hard time understanding the
full impact of a loss of power in an aircraft, versus in a boat.
After the "repaired" injector was installed, it worked great and has
been running fine since. The design of the unit seems to be OK, but in
the event problems arise, the factory support seems to be lacking. At
any rate, $2600 is waaaay too steep for me as well. So now I'm down to
choosing between a Bendix (also expensive) and the Ellison TBI.
The above comments are purely second hand, and do not represent my
personal experiences.
Happy and SAFE flying to all...
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
fuselage taking shape
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Di Meo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
Well, let's see. Zink Oxide is white and it's used in paint and as skin ointment.
I
don't recall Zink Chromate being used in skin ointments :^)
Put another way, Zink Oxide is used as a pigment and Zink Chromate is a protectant.
Does
anyone know the chemistry for Zink Chromate on Aluminum?
Moe, you're right. You really gotta' be into primers to stick with this thread!
Bob
Rv 8 #423 building wings.\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Moore <jjm6898(at)unix.tamu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
On Wed, 26 Aug 1998 Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I have a vibe situation too. I went so far as to get some Houston NASA folks
> to analyse the construction of my airframe! It seems that all the balancing in
> the world won't help- it's more due to the size of the blades (wider chord- 7"
> on my bird @ 12" from the tip) and the resulting pulse of pressure at lower
> (or certain) RPM.
> I've been told that the 4 cyl Lyc has a vibe in the 1100 RPM range (mine
> w/conical mounts did). Would this transfer to 2200 RPM also?
> While playing around with different RPM/MP combos one day, I discovered that
> 20"/2000 RPM for a descent was VERY smooth- I thought the engine had quit. You
> may want to try this on your ship.
> Check your baffling, hoses, wiring, and anything else that may be rubbing
> slightly under the cowl. I have a feeling that my breather line (tight against
> the engine mount) is causing some of the "magic fingers" effect on my ship.
>
> Some engine/prop/airframe combos have a RPM range that you shouldn't operate
> in- check certified ships with a similiar setup for this info. I recall a
> Husky I flew (180w/ c/s prop) had this range at the RPM you mention.
>
> Please post your findings to the list!
>
> Check six!
> Mark
>
>
>
Vibration problems can be one of the most frustrating and cryptic
problems to solve. The first step is to narrow down what's vibrating
(airframe, sheetmetal, canopy) and what is the source is (prop balance,
engine balance, harmonic of engine rotation, torsional vibration,
propeller wake, etc.). Do you only hear the vibration or do you feel
the vibration (stick, seat, etc.)? Is it a narrow frquency (rpm) range?
Are there any signs of mechanical fatigue (cracks in airframe, engine
mounts, exhaust, prop flanges, etc.)? Performing this qualitative
analysis of the problem will go a long way in solving it.
A vibration that you feel will most likely be due to lateral vibration (in
the plane of engine rotation) rather than torsional (twisting of
crankshaft/propeller hub). Torsional vibration problems are typically
more serious since they are harder to "feel" and result in cracked
flanges and even crankshafts. (Hear about the guy recently who dead
sticked it in safely after his propeller fell off in a Piper Comanche).
Although balancing of engine components is typically performed
(crankshaft, weighing of rod ends, pistons, etc.), the rotating assembly
still creates dynamic forces in the form of:
2
F = m r w (cos wt + r/l cos 2wt)
Nevermind all the details, but the force is proportional to the speed
(rpm) squared and contains two fundamental frequencies (1X and 2X running
speed). For example, when running at 2200 rpm, a 2200 cpm (36.7 Hz)
frequency force is generated plus a 4400 cpm (73.3 Hz) harmonic.
Horizontally opposed engines like the 4 cyl Lycomings are designed so that
much of the force of one cylinder cancels out the force from another.
However, since the cylinders are not in-line (ie. radial engine), dynamic
moments are created. Bottom line, a "balanced" engine is never perfectly
balance.
A guy at an Oshkosh forum spoke on engine balancing and stated that
even difference in combustion pressures (due to differences in compression
ratio, mixture, etc.) can create a significant unbalance.
The other factor in vibration problems is resonance. A resonance is
simply when the forcing frequency equals the frequency at which that item
naturally vibrations (termed natural frequency). This is why you only
feel the vibration at a particular vibration frequency. A resonance
condition is best addressed by moving the natural frequency (up or down)
of the part that's being excited. For the case of a skin, instrument
panel, or other, adding stiffeners and ribs would increase the
natural frequency, while adding mass to it will lower it. Remember, to
double the natural frequency, you must make the item 4 times as stiff.
Sound deadening material will help dampen the sheet metal.
I know crawling around in your cockpit while flying is not feasible.
Using a simple velocity sensor or accelerometer along with a quality
digital voltmeter (one that measures both AC and frequency), one can
isolate the source. This instrumentation is expensive, but may be found
at surplus shops for cheaper.
There's usually no quick fix to vibration problems. The first is to
determine if it's detrimental to life and limb. If not, your choices are
to fix it, avoid it, or put on your David Clarks.
Hope this helps.
Jeff Moore
Ph.D.
jjmoore(at)tamu.edu
RV-6A (planning and saving stage...donations accepted)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Di Meo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
Hadn't thought of that but it is very true. My Hartzell prop manual for my
Comanche 250 says that the prop must have the same amount of grease in each clamp
to be properly balanced. How does he do that? Put take one fitting out and put
grease into the other until grease comes out the hole. I do this at every oil
change.
BTW the grease you use is a soap based grease so it will be affected by water.
Voids in the grease in the hub will collect water through condensation and the
grease will deteriorate so it's best to grease often. I think once a year is not
enough so that's why I do it at every oil change (25 hours).
Regards,
Bob
Rv8 #423
Ken hoshowski wrote:
>
> Doug, I am working on a similar problem, see my post of a couple of days
> ago. I phoned Hartzell yesterday and they said check the hub carefully
> for oil and grease leaks and any cracks in the hub. They also suggested
> turning the prop 180 Degrees. If that didn't work to phone them. I
> talked to Larry Feasel phone 937-778-4200. I was wondering if one
> blade might be taking a bigger bite than the other. He said it was
> possible but very unlikely.
> Today I checked my prop and found to my dismay that 1/2 of the hub had
> very little grease. The hub should be full. There are 4 fittings on
> the hub, unscrew either the top 2 or the bottom 2 then apply the proper
> prop grease in the zerk fitting until you get clean grease coming out
> the hole you removed the fitting from. You must put grease in each of
> the fittings. Test flight tomorrow to see what effect this gives. If
> nothing then prop will be rotated. My prop was also dynamically
> balanced, unfortunately they do the run up in fine pitch at 2500 rpm and
> my problem doesn't start to show up until I reduce manifold pressure and
> coursen the pitch. We are working on the process of elimination and have
> eliminated a number of items. Email me direct if you wish. I will let
> the list know what we discover .
>
> Ken
>
> > --Fellow Listers:
> >
> > Today I happened to go flying with a local RV-4 owner who recently
> > converted his 0-320 160 hp machine to a constant speed prop. It's a
> > great
> > performing machine on this powerplant (168 kts TAS at 6500 MSL, 23"
> > and
> > 2400 rpm). However, this engine/prop combination as a pronounced high
> >
> > frequency vibration (almost a buzzing type vibration) as the rpm
> > passes
> > through 2200. Both above and below this rpm everything is very
> > smooth. I
> > have flown in one other RV-4 with the same hp/cs prop combination and
> > it
> > also had a similar vibration in this RPM range. My friend's prop has
> > been
> > dynamically balanced with no effect. Obviously this is some type of
> > harmonic situation. Has anyone else observed such a harmonic
> > vibration on
> > 0-320 c/s prop combinations (I have ridden in several 180 hp/cs prop
> > RV-4s
> > and noticed no such vibration. Comments??
> >
> > ============
> > Doug Weiler, RV-4 fuselage
> > Hudson, WI
> > 715-386-1239
> > dougweil(at)pressenter.com
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | subscription to the list |
Hi Pat
To unsubscribe from the list, you need to do that yourself.
Send a message to the following email address
and put the word
unsubscribe
in the body of the message (not the subject)
Hope this helps.
Chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Walker
> Sent: Saturday, August 01, 1998 11:21 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: subscription to the list
>
>
>
> sirs,
> please unsubscribe my e-mail from the rv-list
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
You'll lose more then the oil in your skin, Acetone attacks your liver. Don't touch
the
stuff barehanded.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Roncace, Robert A wrote:
>
> Acetone will take off EVERYTHING, including ink from so-called "permanent"
> marking
> pens. Caution: if you hold the wiping rag bare handed you should expect to
> lose the
> oil out of your skin, too.
>
> Bob Roncace
> Planning for second try at an RV-6
> (Previously built RV-6 tail kit in '88/89 then sold it in '95)
>
>
>
> Can any listers reccommend a cleaning agent to use when
> preparing my wing
> skins and ribs for proseal application.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Safety Question |
Aircraft Spruce sells a Zinc Oxide primer as an alternative to Zinc Chromate, and
I was
wondering if it was basically the same stuff. I work out of a Print Shop, and while
I may be
willing to take the risks involved with toxic primers, the guys working there may
not feel
the same, and neither will their lawyers. I'm always on the lookout for a less
toxic
alternative.
>
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Robert Di Meo wrote:
>
> Well, let's see. Zink Oxide is white and it's used in paint and as skin ointment.
I
> don't recall Zink Chromate being used in skin ointments :^)
>
> Put another way, Zink Oxide is used as a pigment and Zink Chromate is a protectant.
Does
> anyone know the chemistry for Zink Chromate on Aluminum?
>
> Moe, you're right. You really gotta' be into primers to stick with this thread!
>
> Bob
> Rv 8 #423 building wings.\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Airtech Inc Engines |
Has anyone had any experience with non-certified Lycomings from Airtech Inc out
of Florida?
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
I have Vettermans on my 0320/RV6A with a heat muff and a quick
disconnect for oil changes. Be sure to order his pipe hanger. I went
through 3 designs before he started building one and its worth every
penny.
-----Original Message-----
From: wstucklen1(at)Juno.com [mailto:wstucklen1(at)Juno.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 1:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust System
Listers,
Anybody out there with a Vetterman exhaust on an RV-6A? While I'm in
waiting for my engine and mount to come back from overhaul, I though it
might be a good time to correct some of the items that have been bugging
me. I currently have an Allen Toll exhaust that, after welding three
times, seemed to be doing quite OK for the last 1000 Hrs. But this front
gear incident has introduced a few cracks in new places, so it might be
a
good time to put in the Vetterman system. But I have the following
questions:
1. Does the Vetterman system allow for easier oil changing? The Tolle
system requires a scoop (made from a 2 liter bottle) as the exhaust pipe
is very close to the drain plug on my O320-D1A engine.
2. Can a "Quick Drain" be used with the Vetterman exhaust? (please don't
flame me yet, I still may not use it. But if it can be used, then it
tells me something about the exhaust plumbing...)
3. What else will I need if I order this from Van's? Are all the hangers
included? If not, what did you use????
4. Are there any cowl clearance problems? I have the original kit "Long
Cowl" (requires a 4" prop extension...)
Thanks in advance....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill in Assembly |
>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Wed Aug 26 05:20:56 1998
>Received: (from daemon@localhost)
(PDT)
>Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:18:44 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Drill in Assembly
>In-Reply-To: <35D999C4.5C040B4A(at)bellatlantic.net>
>Message-ID:
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
>OK, I admit it... I was relaxing last night and was looking through
the
>drawings, sort of double checking the work I've done already. And, I
>found out I drilled the holes on the horiz. stab. rear spar to the rear
>spar channels - the ones marked "Drill in Assmebly with fuse." I
didn't
>rivet them. Is this a big deal? I know I shouldn't do it (and I
didn't
>on the other parts), but should I worry about these? I guess they may
get
>a bit oversized when I have to drill again to the fuse. Otherwise,
>everything is going pretty good.
>
>Thanks
>
>Joe
Joe, Last night I just drilled those holes in assembly when fitting the
H stab. on my RV-6. I found I needed to space the top two holes further
outbard than the 2-5/16" CL distance called out. I drilled at about
2-7/16 in order to center the hole better on the F611 bar. There seems
to be nothing else affected by the wider spacing, at least that is what
I hope.
Rick Caldwell - going out to drill the front spar to fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
John Darby wrote:
> If I remember correctly, with TDC set up, the prop goes from 10 to 4
> o'clock as you face it from th front.
According to Tony Bingelis Firewall Forward, the prop bolts on at the 2 and
8
o'clock positions, with the engine at TDC. Then when the prop stops it will be
at
the 10 and 4 o;clock positions.
> Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>> I suppose if I were using the GPS as a sole means of vertical
>> information during IFR approaches, I might want the expensive amplified
>> version; but for normal navigational purposes the $90 type is just
>> great.
>
>I wouldn't rely on GPS for vertical information. Ever. No matter what
>antenna I had. The inherent errors due to satellite geometry are just too
>large.
For additional reading on GPS for sorting out the hype and fondest
wishes from reality, check out:
<http://www.rst-engr.com/peshak.html>
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System |
Vetterman cross over exhaust is an excellent choice. No interference
with oil drain work; support is via a few pieces of scrap aluminum and
some old tire side strips for flexing - installation is quick, simple,
and results are trouble free after 135hrs. Highly recommend the product
and its maker. RV6A flying like crazy!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
> I wouldn't rely on GPS for vertical information. Ever. No matter what
> antenna I had. The inherent errors due to satellite geometry are just too
> large.
Good point. But I wouldn't say "ever". The technology just keeps on
improving.
Either way, my point was just to suggest that the $90 remote GPS
antennas are good enough, and there really isn't much need for the $300
types that some dealers will try to sell.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
Sorry guys, I meant MEK! Thanks for pointing out my mistake Brian!
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> >
> >You'll lose more then the oil in your skin, Acetone attacks your liver.
> Don't
> >touch the stuff barehanded.
>
> I wasn't aware of acetone being that toxic. Heck, they sell it over the
> counter as fingernail polish remover and women have been sticking their
> bare hands in that stuff for ages.
>
> OTOH, I know that MEK is really nasty and can cause toxicity problems.
> Might you have gotten the two confused?
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: never too rich or too lean? |
<>
Mine is drilled to #36 or 37.
<>
That one piece venturi is what gives most of us the problems.
<< I have never felt that I was able to lean an additional amount when
reaching 12,000', perhaps 1/4". Does that mean anything? Tom Green suggested
I run it without the air cleaner once and see if that has an effect. I'll try
that today. >>
Running without the air cleaner causes the EGT and CHT reading to go crazy
because of all of the turbulant air flow. The filter is need to smooth out
the flow. How clean is you filter BTW.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
I went to you HANGER to look at it... oh well... I can't do much more than
call, email, and go to your hanger. Sigh....
>
>In a message dated 8/26/98 7:43:47 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
>sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>> Rod, I'm here in Denver and I NEED it! Please email me and let me know
>> when I can pick it up. Thanks!
>
>Hello Brad,
>
>Somebody from Laramie, WY beat you to the punch. He's coming down on
Sunday to
>pick it up. If something happens and he doesn't take it, I'll send you an e-
>mail.
>
>Sorry.... I _do_ still have a virtually untouched wing kit I'm trying to
>sell.... you'd save about $700 over buying it from Van's...no waiting!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rod
>
>
>
Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
ICQ# 11770815
URGENT MESSAGES: pagekidder(at)bigfoot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Morrison <staggerwing(at)skognet.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Response to Rumor Control |
Don,
Good to see you respond to this a..hole on the RV list.
A friend of mine put your system on his RV4 IO-360 last year and has
nothing but praise for
you and the help he received from you. His system has run flawlessly
over the past 16 months.
Since I have your address, here are a couple of questions for you.
I have a 1400 hr IO-360 A3B6D engine I bought from the Mod Works in Fla.
and would
like to have the Bendix Injecter Servo Checked out. It will be mounted
in an RV6
experimental. I'm weighing this against selling it and buying your
system.
What would checkout of the Bendix unit run, and would you need the
spider with it for checkout?
Is there a market for used Servo's or do you take them in on exchange
for your unit?
Thanks,
Ed Cole
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill in Assembly |
Joe Drumm wrote:
>
>
> OK, I admit it... I was relaxing last night and was looking through the
> drawings, sort of double checking the work I've done already. And, I
> found out I drilled the holes on the horiz. stab. rear spar to the rear
> spar channels - the ones marked "Drill in Assmebly with fuse." I didn't
> rivet them. Is this a big deal? I know I shouldn't do it (and I didn't
> on the other parts), but should I worry about these? I guess they may get
> a bit oversized when I have to drill again to the fuse. Otherwise,
> everything is going pretty good.
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe
>
Joe,
I did the same thing. I interpreted the plans to mean that the #30
holes were to be drilled to the bolt size in assembly. I talked to
Van's and they said don't worry about it. The HS attach points on fuse
are wide enough that the holes in the spar can't be too far off if any.
The way I looked at it, they will make drilling easier because they will
act as pilot holes.
Move on and keep on building : ^ )
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
Believe or not, Coleman fuel (white gas) will also remove "permanent marking
pen" ink very well from bare aluminum along with a lot of other things and
it's a lot less harmful to use than acetone or MEK, although I frequently
use those for other things.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Acetone will take off EVERYTHING, including ink from so-called "permanent"
>marking
>pens.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Brandon <majortom(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend over & shut up |
> I Agree!
>
> I have been followng this thread and i don't think Lloyd sounds like a
> jerk. YOU on the other hand sound EXACTLY like a jerk.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling rudder stiffeners |
Chris Hill wrote:
>
>
> I'm working on the RV-8 rudder and have a simple question...
>
> The stiffener starts 1/8 from the spar and ends 3/16 from the trailing edge.
> The rivits are shown starting 1/4 from the spar and ending 3/4 from the
> trailing edge.
>
> >From my calculations this means The first rivit in the stiffener will be
> only 1/8" into the stiffener while the trailing edge rivit will be 9/16 from
> the end of the stiffiner. Is this correct? Does a rivit only 1/8" into the
> stiffiner provide enough edge distance, it looks awfully close? Is the
> trialing edge rivit really that far up the stiffener (over 1/2")?
>
> I'm sure this is simple, but being the first time doing it I don't want to
> make a mistake and have to remake all the stiffeners.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Chris Hill
> RV-8 rudder
>
Chris,
You are correct, 1/8" is too close to the edge for a 3/32 rivet. Look
at the elevator plan (4pp on the -6a) and you will see that the stiffner
is 1/8" from the spar and the rivet is 1/4" from the end of the
stiffener. The 9/16" dimension on the trailing edge of the stiffener is
correct. I drilled the hole in the stiffner on the spar end(1/4" from
end of stiffener) then drilled the hole on the trailing edge of
stiffener(9/16"). This make each end hole correct. Then starting from
the spar end I drilled the other holes at 1 1/2" spacing(used a drill
jig). When you get down to the trailing edge of stiffener and you don't
have 1 1/2" left between the last hole drilled and the 9/16" hole, just
drill a hole half way between the 9/16" hole and the last hole you
drilled. So, towards the stiffener trailing edge, the rivet spacing
will be less than 1 1/2" which is OK.
Don't forget the RTV
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
In a message dated 8/26/98 7:26:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I went to you HANGER to look at it... oh well... I can't do much more than
> call, email, and go to your hanger. Sigh....
PLEASE NOTE (to the rest of the list, lest you all think I'm some sort of
scumbag...)
You did ALL these things well after I had already promised the jig to someone
else. As a point of fact, you e-mailed beginning Wednesday morning at 6AM and
called my office at 8:15AM. I responded to your e-mailssss (that's plural) at
about 9:20 a.m. I don't know what made you think the jig was at my hangar or
even how you know where my hangar is, but if flying up here was anything other
than a pleasure flight, I think it would have been wise for you to have at
least waited for some response from me.
I appreciate your interest and enthusiasm for the project, but unilaterally
sending 3 e-mail messages within 2-1/2 hours, leaving a voice mail message and
flying to my home airport doesn't mean anything if somebody else confirmed
that they wanted the jig last night.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airtech Inc Engines |
I purchased an 0-320 from Air-Tec. I now have 70 hours on it in my RV-6A. So
far so good... runs great. Dick Waters was good to do business with, no
problems.
Walt .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partiain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
For Sale 1995 RV-4 185 TTSN , 0320 D1A 160 HP, 185TTSN , Hartzell C/S Prop
185 TTSN, K/N Air Filter, Stainless exhaust pipes with crossover . Single
heater muff. Carburetor heat. Alternator cooling tube, Magneto cooling
tubes, Piper oil cooler, Fuel primer.
Terra 760D Com ,Terra 250D xpdr ,Apollo 360 moving map GPS ,ELT , PSII 1000
intercom, Vertical card compass, Altimeter, VSI ,Electronics International
CHT EGT OAT , Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Amp/Volt meter, Electronic Tach,
Lighting on All instruments with dimmer switch.
Navigation Lights, Rear position light, Strobes on wing tips, Dual landing
Lights enclosed in wing tips, Electric Flaps, Locking canopy (keyed same as
ignition), Wood stick grip,
Cabin heat with front and rear outlets, Two fresh air vents located on
canopy skirt.
Professional Paint, White with Blue stripping, Interior panels light Grey
with medium Grey Leather seats
Temper foam, Dark Gray Carpet , Firewall
insulation ,CD player
This is a very nice plane, always kept in a hanger and professionally
maintained. All avionics purchased new November 1996 and installed
professionally.
All plans and instrument documentation. Complete Logs
Cruise 187 mph @ 8.5 gph
Annual due 8/98
$55,000.00
Price includes 8/98 annual (yet to be inspected)
Tony Partain
314-894-0828
Saint Louis MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Hello Group:
I realize that this is a bit off subject, but I just thought that we should
all have our fellow RVers on the east coast in our thoughts, as Hurricane
Bonnie is making quite a mess of things down there. Lets hope that everyone
makes it through it OK and will be back enjoying building/flying RVs in the
near future.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wing Spars
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
Oh goodness... sorry... I wasn't flaming you! Guess my sense of humor
didn't read well there... Sorry about that, Rod, if there was a
misunderstanding!
Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
ICQ# 11770815
URGENT MESSAGES: pagekidder(at)bigfoot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Pad Break-in |
Hal,
The wheel bearings come packed with grease. As I recall, my brake pads had
rivet holes, making them organic. Right?
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST mounting oil filler door
>
>Don't tell me I have to remove wheels & brakes again! Do we have the
organic
>pads?
>
>I don't remember packing wheel bearings, am I just getting forgetful or
were
>they already packed? Or worse, did I just skip that step?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
---"Leslie B. Williams" wrote:
>
>
> Believe or not, Coleman fuel (white gas) will also remove "permanent
marking
> pen" ink very well from bare aluminum along with a lot of other
things and
> it's a lot less harmful to use than acetone or MEK, although I
frequently
> use those for other things.
>
> Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>
> >
> >Acetone will take off EVERYTHING, including ink from so-called
"permanent"
> >marking
> >pens.
When I built my tanks 8 years ago, Coleman fuel (white gas also know
as Naptha) was what the builder's manual recommended.
A little tip: Scuff the surfaces you want the "ProSeal" (R) to stick
to. Then clean. I used an orbital sander with 280 grit. My employer
uses 280 for scuffing aluminum so did I. Scotchbright should work as
well.
No leaks. Flying 11 months with 220+ hours.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 aircraft for sale |
Listers:
I have a friend with an RV6 for sale:
97 RV6 QB. 70 hr.T.T. Lyc 0-320 E2D 160HP first run engine rebuilt to
factory certified specs by Progressive Kamloops, with engine logs showing
history. Oil filter, light weight starter, full panel,NEW king comm +
transponder, recording intercom, Garmin GPS III, Walker prop 70x70,
Lightspeed mods, custom interior, Endura primer and paint, Airbrush trim by
Rick Evans, Complete photo/construction history, 2000+hrs, Meticulous
workmanship, Potential award winner.
Must sell- 65,000 US.
contact Brent Redding - PH. 250 860 2283 - Fax 250 860 2284
Or reply off list to me at jjewell(at)okanagan.net
Jim RV6-eh goopin tanks
When dreams come true the sky is the limit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airtech Inc Engines |
> Has anyone had any experience with non-certified Lycomings from Airtech
Inc out of Florida?
I have an Airtech O-360 hanging on my RV-6 which I hope to start this
weekend. Can't tell you until then how it runs but it sure looks nice and
they've been very helpful every time I called with a question. The only
thing I was caught off guard by was the electronic magneto I got with it.
I was pretty sure Dick Waters had described a full up, timing advancing
electronic ignition, what I got was an electronic mag that is constant at
25 degrees but a hotter spark due to a automotive style coil (it also fires
at 0 degrees for an easy start). I'll be very quick to get a message on
the net if disaster strikes this weekend, so in all fairness all also
report a positive run.
Marcus Cooper
RV-6 - really close, the FAAs been called and everything!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 aircraft for sale |
Listers:
I have a friend with an RV6 for sale:
97 RV6 QB. 70 hr.T.T. Lyc 0-320 E2D 160HP first run engine rebuilt to
factory certified specs by Progressive Kamloops, with engine logs showing
history. Oil filter, light weight starter, full panel,NEW king comm +
transponder, recording intercom, Garmin GPS III, Walker prop 70x70,
Lightspeed mods, custom interior, Endura primer and paint, Airbrush trim by
Rick Evans, Complete photo/construction history, 2000+hrs, Meticulous
workmanship, Potential award winner.
Must sell- 65,000 US.
contact Brent Redding - PH. 250 860 2283 - Fax 250 860 2284
Or reply off list to me at jjewell(at)okanagan.net
Jim RV6-eh goopin tanks
When dreams come true the sky is the limit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
Recently I got my rudder all closed up, stood back to admire it... and
realized that I forgot the RTV.
Does anybody know a way to get the goo in after it's closed up? I keep
imagining things like a real long hypodermic needle with a 90-degree bend
at the end, but haven't figured out where to get one or how to get RTV into
it. I also doubt that I would be able to press hard enough to get RTV to
flow through 2 feet of teeny little needle.
I imagined drilling little bitty holes and somehow injecting it that way,
or somehow filling up the whole trailing edge with blue goo. I can't even
begin to imagine drilling out all those rivets. I think I'd rather build a
whole new rudder than do that.
How important is it anyhow?
Don Hyde
Quincy, IL
6A, Building! VS done,
Working on rudder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
Robert Di Meo wrote:
>
> Hadn't thought of that but it is very true. My Hartzell prop manual
> for my
> Comanche 250 says that the prop must have the same amount of grease in
> each clamp
> to be properly balanced. How does he do that? Put take one fitting
> out and put
> grease into the other until grease comes out the hole. I do this at
> every oil
> change.
> BTW the grease you use is a soap based grease so it will be affected
> by water.
> Voids in the grease in the hub will collect water through condensation
> and the
> grease will deteriorate so it's best to grease often. I think once a
> year is not
> enough so that's why I do it at every oil change (25 hours).
Hartzell Approved Greases:
Aeroshell 5 With certain limitations.see Bulletin 159 [prohibited for
use below - 40 F ] can be
mixed with Aeroshell 22 without adverse effects.
Aeroshell 6 Used on all new Hartzell props after June 1989
Aeroshell 7 Qualities similar to Aeroshell 22. Although usable, it is
not the prefered grease.
Aeroshell 22 Excellent low temp qualities & has been used in new
production since issuance of Bulletin 159 . However, its usage has
resulted in numeruos reports of leakage, primarily due to oil separation
Exxon 5114 EP
Royco 22 C
Info ref: Service Advisory 17A
Shell Product Information was available at 1-800 231- 6950 [may have
changed] I think all of the above suggests that Aeroshell 6 is prefered.
D.Reed 6A Oregon
>
>
> Regards,
> Bob
> Rv8 #423
>
> Ken hoshowski wrote:
>
> >
> > Doug, I am working on a similar problem, see my post of a couple of
> days
> > ago. I phoned Hartzell yesterday and they said check the hub
> carefully
> > for oil and grease leaks and any cracks in the hub. They also
> suggested
> > turning the prop 180 Degrees. If that didn't work to phone them. I
>
> > talked to Larry Feasel phone 937-778-4200. I was wondering if one
> > blade might be taking a bigger bite than the other. He said it was
> > possible but very unlikely.
> > Today I checked my prop and found to my dismay that 1/2 of the hub
> had
> > very little grease. The hub should be full. There are 4 fittings
> on
> > the hub, unscrew either the top 2 or the bottom 2 then apply the
> proper
> > prop grease in the zerk fitting until you get clean grease coming
> out
> > the hole you removed the fitting from. You must put grease in each
> of
> > the fittings. Test flight tomorrow to see what effect this gives.
> If
> > nothing then prop will be rotated. My prop was also dynamically
> > balanced, unfortunately they do the run up in fine pitch at 2500 rpm
> and
> > my problem doesn't start to show up until I reduce manifold pressure
> and
> > coursen the pitch. We are working on the process of elimination and
> have
> > eliminated a number of items. Email me direct if you wish. I will
> let
> > the list know what we discover .
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > > --Fellow Listers:
> > >
> > > Today I happened to go flying with a local RV-4 owner who recently
>
> > > converted his 0-320 160 hp machine to a constant speed prop. It's
> a
> > > great
> > > performing machine on this powerplant (168 kts TAS at 6500 MSL,
> 23"
> > > and
> > > 2400 rpm). However, this engine/prop combination as a pronounced
> high
> > >
> > > frequency vibration (almost a buzzing type vibration) as the rpm
> > > passes
> > > through 2200. Both above and below this rpm everything is very
> > > smooth. I
> > > have flown in one other RV-4 with the same hp/cs prop combination
> and
> > > it
> > > also had a similar vibration in this RPM range. My friend's prop
> has
> > > been
> > > dynamically balanced with no effect. Obviously this is some type
> of
> > > harmonic situation. Has anyone else observed such a harmonic
> > > vibration on
> > > 0-320 c/s prop combinations (I have ridden in several 180 hp/cs
> prop
> > > RV-4s
> > > and noticed no such vibration. Comments??
> > >
> > > ============
> > > Doug Weiler, RV-4 fuselage
> > > Hudson, WI
> > > 715-386-1239
> > > dougweil(at)pressenter.com
> > >
> >
>
>
> --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
>
>Recently I got my rudder all closed up, stood back to admire it... and
>realized that I forgot the RTV.
>
>Does anybody know a way to get the goo in after it's closed up? I keep
>imagining things like a real long hypodermic needle with a 90-degree bend
>at the end, but haven't figured out where to get one or how to get RTV into
>it. I also doubt that I would be able to press hard enough to get RTV to
>flow through 2 feet of teeny little needle.
>
>I imagined drilling little bitty holes and somehow injecting it that way,
>or somehow filling up the whole trailing edge with blue goo. I can't even
>begin to imagine drilling out all those rivets. I think I'd rather build a
>whole new rudder than do that.
>
>How important is it anyhow?
>Don Hyde
>Quincy, IL
>6A, Building! VS done,
>Working on rudder.
>
Don,
Hundreds, maybe thousands of RV's have been built without the benefit
of RTV in the trailing edge. I hardly think that the world will end
if you don't have RTV in your rudder.
Most of the cracking problems seem to be in the elevator, not in the
rudder, anyway.
My advice is to just think about all that weight that you won't have
in your rudder.
John Ammeter
RV-6, built 1990, sold 1998, 220 hours (and no cracks, either)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
---Ken Harrill wrote:
>
>
> The way I understand it, the parking brake valve goes between the
fluid
> reservoir and the copilot master cylinders. A tee goes in the line
> downstream from the valve in order to supply both master cylinders.
Is
> that correct?
>
> Second question. Is the plastic brake line supplied by Van's OK for
use
> downstream from the parking brake valve? In other words, is the
> pressure rating of the plastic line adequate considering the pressure
> present when the parking valve is closed?
>
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6, fuselage
The parking brake valve goes between the master cylinder and the wheel
cylinder.
Van gave me two (2) different plastic lines. The one line can go on
the pressure side. It will be labeled Nyloseal and have a much
thicker wall. I used the Nyloseal from the co-pilot brake master
cylinder to the pilot brake master cylinder. I then have the HOSE
supplied by Van between the pilot master cylinder to the parking brake
valve. From the parking brake valve, I use aluminum line down the
FRONT of the gear leg to a loop that then goes to the brake. I have
an old set of plans that does not show this. I copied this from a
newer set of plans that another builder has.
This set up has worked flawless. I have over 220 hours since first
flight. (less than one year) Still have the original tires and
brakes. Tires have not been rotated. I have over 280 landing on the
tires. I have also flown the aircraft from the right seat 3 times.
It works. All 3 landings were at temperatures above 95 F.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Drill in Assembly |
A bolt is going to go in those "drill in assembly" holes. I think the
big issue is going to be whether the pilot holes you drilled will be in
the best place in the pieces to which the HS is bolted. If you have
enough edge distance in the underlying pieces of the fuselage, then you
should be just fine.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont (away from the project at camp)
-----Original Message----- I drilled the holes on the
horiz. stab. rear spar to the rear
spar channels - the ones marked "Drill in Assmebly with
fuse." I didn't
rivet them. Is this a big deal?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Filler Flange Rivets |
Listers,
I riveted my drain flange and filler flange last night. I had noted the 3-4
rivets called out in the plans to be only marginally long enough on my trial
fit of the flange (minus the Pro Seal). I also noted the Bunny's Guide
(excellent resource, btw) called the 3-4 rivets "hopelessly optimistic".
Anyway, I went with the 3-4 rivets called out in the plans. It is a sad
feeling driving a rivet with black goo all over and realizing the shop head is
not big enough. But what do you do when it is too late ? Drilling them out
is not an option with Pro Seal applied.
I'm mad at myself for following the plans on this one. While I have enough
shop head to hold the flange on (plus all the black goo), I blindly followed
the plans which do not allow extra rivet length for the Pro Seal.
Confession complete. Time to move on.
Mark McGee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Response to Rumor Control |
Keep up the good work Don, the industry needs folks like you and your company.
Ed
Donald J Rivera wrote:
>
> Thank you Mark (mlfred(at)aol.com) for bring this rumor to my attention.
> This is one of the big problems with the Internet. People say things
> that can ruin a company's reputation and other people that read this
> slanderous crap believe it. I don't understand why people do not get
> their facts straight before spreading rumors that are untrue. I have
> half a mind to go after the person spreading these rumors for defamation
> of character, mental anguish, loss of business and just plain wasting my
> time. But that only makes the lawyers rich. The RV-4 flyer that claimed
> to have almost total power failure on takeoff was really experiencing
> some other problems with her plane. When we got back her Bendix Servo
> which she purchased from us as an experimental RSA in 1994 (not an
> Airflow Servo) we did what is called an R.A.R., which is run as received.
> The test results were compared to the original data and was found to be
> within 1 to 2 PPH of the original. We then called up the pilot and
> explained that she must be having other related problems on her aircraft
> as everything checked out on her unit. We suggested things to check on
> the engine and aircraft. She was positive there was a problem with her
> servo. Her mechanic told her so. We sent back the unit and called a few
> days later to see if she had found out her problem, (does this sound like
> a company who doesn't care?). She claimed that we gave her a different
> unit, that we didn't understand that engines ran different at 6000 ft.
> and I was a "flat lander" (well actually I'm from California). We said "
> no, we returned the same unit she sent" which was the original unit she
> had. The serial numbers were the same (they had written down the parts
> list number as being the serial number) our records state that the unit
> that is installed on her RV now , is the same as the one shipped in 1994.
> She got back the very same servo with no adjustments made to it (well
> maybe UPS opened the box and put a new data plate on it ......RIGHT). We
> do not know what kind of problems they had, but evidently something was
> done differently. She did mention in passing that she had put new mags
> on recently.
>
> As to the claim that the manufacture is not an aviation person and comes
> from the race boat industry, it is obviously that this person definitely
> did not do his or her homework. I grew up in the aviation industry. My
> father was the Bendix Representative on the fuel metering systems for the
> Military and civilian aircraft. My father and I started a plans built
> Starduster Too while I was in high school. When I was 17 years old I
> installed an RSA-5 Fuel Servo on my Corvair (not a big success but it
> kind of worked). I took flying lessons and got my private pilots license
> when I was 19 years old. I went to A&P school at Glendale College and
> worked at Santa Paula Airport as an A&P for a short time. After I
> decided that I didn't want to turn wrenches all my life, I went on to
> college to get a Bachelor degree in Mechanical Engineering (Northrop
> Institute of Technology). In the summers of college I worked as an A&P.
> After graduating from college, I was hired by the Bendix Corporation in
> South Bend, Indiana. I worked for two years on the M-1 tank program and
> then switched departments and worked on the RSA Fuel Servo program. I
> was trained under the inventor of the RSA, Elmer Haase. He was a very
> interesting and intelligent person. I was fortunate to be able to work
> with him for about 8 years and tried to learn as much of his knowledge as
> I could. He was one heck of a great mentor, I still miss talking with
> him. He died about 4 years ago. One of my other bosses is still alive,
> Jimmy Kirwin, and we still keep in contact. I pick his brain sometimes
> when I get stumped. When I left Bendix in 1983 I was the Senior Project
> Engineer on the Bendix RSA Servos. The main reason I left was that they
> were selling off the RSA line to Precision Airmotive. It was at that
> time that I decided to start my own business and using my knowledge from
> Bendix and being a license A&P, I designed my own version of a Fuel Servo
> for experimental aviation. We are the only shop in the US outside of
> Precision Airmotive that have an airbox to simulate how the fuel
> controller actually works in the airplane. Yes, we did race cars and
> boats, back in the beginning and got kicked out of a lot of the race boat
> circuits because the factories did not like losing to a little nobody
> like us. We still install Airflow systems on racing applications
> today. Most of our work for the last 11 years has been in the airplane
> industry. We have delivered over 800 systems for aircraft use. Our
> products are on a lot of the airshow performers airplanes, like Sean D.
> Tucker, Patty Wagstaff, Steve Oliver, Gene Soucy, Jim LeRoy, Wayne
> Hanley, as well as on the factory Stewart S-51. We pride ourselves on
> providing all of our customers with the best quality of craftsmanship we
> can. We know that all of our customers need good parts and try our very
> best to do it correct the first time as there may not be a second chance.
> This is our business and livelihood, we can not afford to be doing the
> same work over the second time as there is not a high mark up on our
> labor or parts. We also do Bendix Overhauls for experimental aircraft
> and just recently got our FAA part 145 license for working the Bendix
> servos for certified aircraft. We have been working with several engines
> shops for years such as Ly-Con of Visalia, California; Barrett
> Performance Aircraft of Tulsa, OK; and Don George, Inc. of Orlando,
> Florida.
>
> Colleen got her start at the Bendix Corporation in South Bend, Indiana as
> well. She worked in the lab for 10 years as a technician on a lot of the
> military fuel metering systems. At one time she worked on the
> environmental testing of the fuel control for the SR-71, and worked on
> the air motors that operate the jet nozzle on our front line fighters
> like the F-15 and F-16. She wears the most hats at Airflow Performance
> keeping the office running smoothly, but she still helps in the shop when
> needed.
>
> And yes, our complete kits are expensive. But you have to look at what
> you are getting for your money. The kit for an RV 360 is around $2600.
> This includes the fuel control, mounting adapter, throttle and mixture
> cable brackets, flow divider, mounting bracket, purge valve, injector
> nozzles, nozzle lines, fittings, clamp kit, Van's airbox adapter, high
> pressure electric boost pump, fuel filter, and the Teflon firesleeved
> fuel hoses to connect the engine driven fuel pump to the fuel controller
> and from the fuel controller to the flow divider. The fuel controller by
> itself is around $1200. Sure there's junked out RSA's around for $500.
> Is your airplane or your life worth that?
>
> We hope that this has given some people a little insight of who we are
> and what we do, all we ask is that they please come to us with their
> questions and concerns as we are the experts in the field of OUR
> products, and a lot of the Bendix RSA products. Before going and
> spreading someone else's fiction make sure you have all your facts
> straight, you would not want someone spreading vicious rumors about you
> that are not true and can cause you a lot of undue stress and maybe
> having to close up your business. What about the 800 Airflow Systems
> and over 600 overhauled Bendix Systems. Doesn't that say anything about
> our reputation?
>
> PLEASE PEOPLE, GET YOUR FACTS STRAIGHT BEFORE MAKING ACCUSATIONS.
>
> Donald Rivera.............Airflow Performance, Inc.
>
> --------- Begin forwarded message ----------
> From: Mlfred(at)aol.com
> To: airflowinc(at)juno.com
> Subject: Fwd: RV-List: Looking for a 200 hp engine
> Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 10:12:19 EDT
> Message-ID: <585dec77.35d98bc5(at)aol.com>
>
> Content-ID: <0_903449540@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
>
> I thought you might want to read this...
>
> Mark
>
>
> << Subj: Re: RV-List: Looking for a 200 hp engine
> Date: 98-08-17 22:18:53 EDT
> From: akroguy(at)hotmail.com (Brian Denk)
> Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
> >>
> >> Airflow Performance has a fuel injection system for experimental
> aircraft
> >> that is available for approx. $1500 or so.
> >> I have no direct experience with it , but I'm sure there are a number
>
> of
> >> people on the list that can give you more info.
> >>
> >I called these people and they quoted me $2600 for O-360.
> >
> >Too pricey for me
> >
> >Brian Eckstein
>
>
> I have heard some "not good" things about the Airflow Performance system
>
> from a local RV-4 flyer. This pilot experienced an almost total power
> failure on takeoff and would have ended up in the trees if it weren't
> for the 8,000 runway being used at the time. The injector was sent to
> the manufacturer, and they stated that nothing was wrong with it.
> However, the serial number on the throttle body was different than the
> original unit when it was returned. Hmm...
>
> Evidently, the manufacturer is not an aviation person...and comes from
> the race boat industry. This person had a hard time understanding the
> full impact of a loss of power in an aircraft, versus in a boat.
>
> After the "repaired" injector was installed, it worked great and has
> been running fine since. The design of the unit seems to be OK, but in
> the event problems arise, the factory support seems to be lacking. At
> any rate, $2600 is waaaay too steep for me as well. So now I'm down to
> choosing between a Bendix (also expensive) and the Ellison TBI.
>
> The above comments are purely second hand, and do not represent my
> personal experiences.
>
> Happy and SAFE flying to all...
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 #379
> fuselage taking shape
>
> >>
>
> Content-ID: <0_903449540@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
>
> Return-Path:
> Received: from rly-za03.mx.aol.com ([172.31.36.99]) by
> air-za04.mail.aol.com
> Received: from matronics.com (mail.matronics.com [207.171.250.179])
> Received: (from daemon@localhost)
> Message-ID: <19980818015040.3864.qmail(at)hotmail.com>
> X-Originating-IP: [128.215.10.10]
> From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for a 200 hp engine
> Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:50:39 PDT
> Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> >>
> >> Airflow Performance has a fuel injection system for experimental
> aircraft
> >> that is available for approx. $1500 or so.
> >> I have no direct experience with it , but I'm sure there are a number
> of
> >> people on the list that can give you more info.
> >>
> >I called these people and they quoted me $2600 for O-360.
> >
> >Too pricey for me
> >
> >Brian Eckstein
>
> I have heard some "not good" things about the Airflow Performance system
> from a local RV-4 flyer. This pilot experienced an almost total power
> failure on takeoff and would have ended up in the trees if it weren't
> for the 8,000 runway being used at the time. The injector was sent to
> the manufacturer, and they stated that nothing was wrong with it.
> However, the serial number on the throttle body was different than the
> original unit when it was returned. Hmm...
>
> Evidently, the manufacturer is not an aviation person...and comes from
> the race boat industry. This person had a hard time understanding the
> full impact of a loss of power in an aircraft, versus in a boat.
>
> After the "repaired" injector was installed, it worked great and has
> been running fine since. The design of the unit seems to be OK, but in
> the event problems arise, the factory support seems to be lacking. At
> any rate, $2600 is waaaay too steep for me as well. So now I'm down to
> choosing between a Bendix (also expensive) and the Ellison TBI.
>
> The above comments are purely second hand, and do not represent my
> personal experiences.
>
> Happy and SAFE flying to all...
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 #379
> fuselage taking shape
>
> --------- End forwarded message ----------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
I have been following the steering chain issue with some interest. I was
never happy with the draggy springs, but they functioned just fine. That
was until I built a new rudder to replace the old cracked one. Slight
changes in dimensions meant that I couldn't get it just right. Removing
one link made it to tight, adding one made it far to loose.
I entertained the idea of a solid link and last night I tried it. I used
some 1/2" 4130 tube with a .065 wall. Two rod end bearings screwed in,
drilled and roll pinned completed the setup. Some minor bending to clear
the rudder and align the rod ends was needed.
I had to go flying to try it out. Response is positive and lively on the
ground. I found I was less prone to use brakes to steer. It wasn't
anymore difficult to get use to than the responsive feel we all have
come to love in our RV's when we fly. I tried some cross wind landings
as well. I was concerned that landing with the rudder and wheel cocked
might be a problem. Wasn't a problem. Even in fairly brisk crosswinds
the rudder is not deflected all that much.
Conclusion: I like it. I will fly some more before I adopt it forever.
The assembly is less complicated and lighter than the springs. Gained
5-10 knots because of the cleaner installation ; )
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener
--
http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robin.y.wessel(at)exgate.tek.com |
| Subject: | Unscientific RV survey |
Listers-
I have created an unscientific RV survey on my web site. Being a builder, I
alway wanted to know what other people are putting into their RV's. I guess
I am like a dead fish - they always go with the flow. As a result, I have
created a quick survey with questions that many have asked about on previous
posts.
The survey is completely anonymous and will not be used for any commercial
purpose.
I will compile the data and post the results when there is enough data.
click here:
<http://robin.getbiz.net/survey.htm>
Thanks,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A wings
Ann Arbor, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
> I realize that this is a bit off subject, but I just thought that we should
> all have our fellow RVers on the east coast in our thoughts, as Hurricane
> Bonnie is making quite a mess of things down there. Lets hope that everyone
> makes it through it OK and will be back enjoying building/flying RVs in the
> near future.
[Cynical font on]
But there's a silver lining to every cloud: a good blow down there does
amazing things to the used engine market.
[Cynical font off]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rumor Control, APPOLOGY |
>Don,
>Good to see you respond to this a..hole on the RV list.
>
>A friend of mine put your system on his RV4 IO-360 last year and has
>nothing but praise for
>you and the help he received from you. His system has run flawlessly
>over the past 16 months.
*****************************************************************
Listers,
My father taught me that it takes a true man to admit to his
shortcomings, and to make right what he does wrong. So shall it be here.
The comments I posted regarding a local flier's experiences with an
Airflow system (or whatever it's original lineage actually is, which is
somewhat over my head at this point) were offbase and founded in pure
speculation. It was then, and is now, WRONG. My reply was made late in
the night, at work, and tired. NOT a good idea. I have been invited by
a lister to inspect his Airflow installation at any time, and I would
very much like to do that, as I will be needing an injector within a
year. From all accounts, this entire issue was rooted in
misunderstanding, with no direct fault on either party's behalf. Both
the flier I referred to, and Mr. Rivera, are, without doubt, highly
competent individuals. I am highly impressed with what the Airflow
system includes for the price, and am wholeheartedly interested in
buying one...even if I have to brownbag a few more lunches to make it
happen.
I feel this forum is a true expression of free speech as it was intended
to be. Being referred to as an "a..hole" is rather extreme, and I would
not under any circumstances use such language myself. Yet, again, this
is free speech defined, and I will say nothing more about it. Input
from the list was solicited regarding the Airflow system in general, and
I did so, with no hidden agendas intended.
I shall not reply to any RV-list questions in the public forum from this
point on. All replies will be direct to the person inquiring my
input..which is unfortunate, as I feel I have much to share, and also
much to learn.
MY humble appologies to any whom I have offended, or harmed in any way.
Best of luck to all, and especially to Mr. Rivera...may you prosper and
continue to achieve excellence in your field.
Sincerely,
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Di Meo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
Don,
you know you'd rather drill out all those rivets rather than starting all over
again but I really do feel for you.
In the same thread. I'm doing the ailerons for my "8" and I didn't see anything
about using RTV on the ends of the stiffeners. It seems to me that if I had to
do
it on the tail, I should have to do it on the wings. Advice anyone?
Bob
RV8 #423
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Di Meo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
I use Aeroshell 6 in my Hartzell.
BTW I'm one of the guys facing the infamous AD. Saving my pennies for next spring.
Bob
Rv8 #423
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BERT SHARP <EAGLE(at)LONGVIEW.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
rv8 wings?
bert sharp eagle(at)longview.net
WoodardRod(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/26/98 7:43:47 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> > Rod, I'm here in Denver and I NEED it! Please email me and let me know
> > when I can pick it up. Thanks!
>
> Hello Brad,
>
> Somebody from Laramie, WY beat you to the punch. He's coming down on Sunday to
> pick it up. If something happens and he doesn't take it, I'll send you an e-
> mail.
>
> Sorry.... I _do_ still have a virtually untouched wing kit I'm trying to
> sell.... you'd save about $700 over buying it from Van's...no waiting!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rod
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unscientific RV survey |
robin.y.wessel(at)exgate.tek.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers-
>
> I have created an unscientific RV survey on my web site. Being a builder, I
> alway wanted to know what other people are putting into their RV's. I guess
> I am like a dead fish - they always go with the flow. As a result, I have
> created a quick survey with questions that many have asked about on previous
> posts.
>
> The survey is completely anonymous and will not be used for any commercial
> purpose.
>
> I will compile the data and post the results when there is enough data.
>
> click here:
>
> <http://robin.getbiz.net/survey.htm>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin Wessel
> RV-6A wings
> Ann Arbor, MI
>
Robin,
I tried submitting but got a Java Script error.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Parking Brake Questions |
Gary,
Thanks for your response. I had assumed that the parking brake valve
would go between the master cylinder and the wheel cylinder, too. That
makes perfect sense to me. However, when I removed this valve ( made by
Scott, listed in the 97 ACS but not in 98 ACS) from a salvage Mooney, it
was mounted directly below the fluid reservoir. Then came my confusion.
Maybe there is something different in the Mooney brake system that I
haven't recognized. To further fuel the confusion, this is a single
valve, one "in" and one "out". To install it between the master
cylinder and the wheel cylinder, I would need two of them, one for each
side. Any thoughts?
Ken Harrill
RV-6, fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary A. Sobek [mailto:rv6flier(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 8:55 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Parking Brake Questions
---Ken Harrill wrote:
>
>
> The way I understand it, the parking brake valve goes
between the
fluid
> reservoir and the copilot master cylinders. A tee goes
in the line
> downstream from the valve in order to supply both
master cylinders.
Is
> that correct?
>
> Second question. Is the plastic brake line supplied
by Van's OK for
use
> downstream from the parking brake valve? In other
words, is the
> pressure rating of the plastic line adequate
considering the pressure
> present when the parking valve is closed?
>
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6, fuselage
The parking brake valve goes between the master cylinder
and the wheel
cylinder.
Van gave me two (2) different plastic lines. The one
line can go on
the pressure side. It will be labeled Nyloseal and have
a much
thicker wall. I used the Nyloseal from the co-pilot
brake master
cylinder to the pilot brake master cylinder. I then
have the HOSE
supplied by Van between the pilot master cylinder to the
parking brake
valve. From the parking brake valve, I use aluminum
line down the
FRONT of the gear leg to a loop that then goes to the
brake. I have
an old set of plans that does not show this. I copied
this from a
newer set of plans that another builder has.
This set up has worked flawless. I have over 220 hours
since first
flight. (less than one year) Still have the original
tires and
brakes. Tires have not been rotated. I have over 280
landing on the
tires. I have also flown the aircraft from the right
seat 3 times.
It works. All 3 landings were at temperatures above 95
F.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System |
First I have to identify that I am a friend of Larry V.and not an
unbiased source of info. That said, here goes. He is fanatical about
quality and customer satisfaction and has taken many losses he needn't
have just to make sure the customer was happy with his products. I
don't think you can do better than buy from Larry (or van's, who carries
them).
The only thing I would add to your other post replies is that he now
includes a hanger system with the 6 crossover exhaust system as part of
the price. It is an elegantly simple yet adjusttable system which I
can't describe but with which I am very happy. My plane was the
prototype for this system :). I have tried my best to break it for him
but have been unable.
Give him a call he will talk to you. 303-932-0561. He works during the
day so try in the eve. Now that he sells almost totally through Van's,
he misses talking to his customers!
D Walsh biased but I am from Missouri.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rumor Control, APPOLOGY |
>I shall not reply to any RV-list questions in the public forum from this
>point on. All replies will be direct to the person inquiring my
>input..which is unfortunate, as I feel I have much to share, and also
>much to learn.
>Brian Denk
Brian,
No need to sign off the list. You made a good apology. Everyone makes
mistakes.
What is really unforgivable is the nasty tones some rv-list newbies are
displaying. I've been on the list since 1995 and haven't seen such childish
name calling and nasty e-mails as we've had the last several weeks.
I've always enjoyed this group and have made many friends along the way.
RVers, as a whole, are the most helpful and friendly bunch of people that
you'll find. People can certainly disagree without being disagreeable.
I joined the list after I had completed my RV-6. Boy, I wish I would have
had this great resource when I was building. I've seen a lot of rv builders
come and go on the list. Some of the old hands who posted very valuable
information in the past are no longer actively participating. I imagine one
of the reasons for this reduced activity is that the old timers are tired of
the nasty & confrontational tone of some of the posters. Too bad. The guys
who are still building are the big losers. I would like to suggest that
builder's make use of the archives to gain access to some of the wisdom of
former listers. Of course, the archives are similar to the active
list---sometimes, you have to sort things out.
Bob Skinner RV-6 438 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BDS <coro_01(at)weblabs.com> |
| Subject: | Rumor Control, APPOLOGY |
Someone asked for any available info on the item in question (fuel
injection system I believe - but the subject doesn't seem to matter these
days). Mr. Denk took the time to try to help and provided what he knew,
and he even stated that it was anecdotal and "second hand" in his posting.
For his trouble he gets publicly berated and has now given up on trying to
help in the future.
Every time you guys do this you lose. Those of us who are well into our
projects (or flying) don't need the abuse some of you are more than willing
to dish out when you don't agree with the material, or the position being
presented. IMO, if this continues the RV-List will deteriorate until you
are left with another rec.aviation.homebuilt type forum. If that's your
goal, keep it up - you'll get there faster than you think. (BTW, if you
don't think this is already happening, ask yourselves why posts from the
more experienced builders and flyers are so scarce these days...)
So, another contributor leaves the portion of the group that actually
contributes material and information. Just what exactly have you
accomplished by forcing this to happen?
Bruce Stobbe
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unscientific RV survey |
Edward Cole wrote:
> Robin,
> I tried submitting but got a Java Script error.
>
> Ed Cole
I just responded to Robin's survey and had no difficulty.
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
<< However, when I removed this valve ( made by
Scott, listed in the 97 ACS but not in 98 ACS) from a salvage Mooney, it
was mounted directly below the fluid reservoir. Then came my confusion.
Maybe there is something different in the Mooney brake system that I
haven't recognized. To further fuel the confusion, this is a single
valve, one "in" and one "out". To install it between the master
cylinder and the wheel cylinder, I would need two of them, one for each
side. Any thoughts?
Ken Harrill >>
Let's see: if you block the return of fluid to the reservior (after you push
the brake pedals), you will maintain pressure in the rest of the system.
Pretty stinkin' simple! How come I never thought of this method??! I would
guess that this single valve will keep even press. in both sides.
I'll bet a ball valve with the proper sized inlet/outlet would do the same
thing, only cheaper. Maybe $10 at your hardware store of choice. Hook a choke
cable affair to the handle, and presto! You have a parking brake!
One problem: In some later kits, the line fittings for the reservior side are
very wimpy- hand tighten only, like the static sys kits. You may have a leak
here, but a switch to the high press side type fittings will cure this
symptom.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
<< However, when I removed this valve ( made by
Scott, listed in the 97 ACS but not in 98 ACS) from a salvage Mooney, it
was mounted directly below the fluid reservoir. Then came my confusion.
Maybe there is something different in the Mooney brake system that I
haven't recognized. To further fuel the confusion, this is a single
valve, one "in" and one "out". To install it between the master
cylinder and the wheel cylinder, I would need two of them, one for each
side. Any thoughts?
Ken Harrill >>
Let's see: if you block the return of fluid to the reservior (after you push
the brake pedals), you will maintain pressure in the rest of the system.
Pretty stinkin' simple! How come I never thought of this method??! I would
guess that this single valve will keep even press. in both sides.
I'll bet a ball valve with the proper sized inlet/outlet would do the same
thing, only cheaper. Maybe $10 at your hardware store of choice. Hook a choke
cable affair to the handle, and presto! You have a parking brake!
One problem: In some later kits, the line fittings for the reservior side are
very wimpy- hand tighten only, like the static sys kits. You may have a leak
here, but a switch to the high press side type fittings will cure this
symptom.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ERemmers(at)aol.com |
Hi Andy,
we're selling avionics (Magellan as well) in Europe and we tried the same
cheap (internal) antenna as externat installation approximatly 3 years ago.
Never had a problem. By shure, the manufacturer won't recommend that and this
installation won't be TSO'd. But don't worry about that. This antenna is
sealed by an o-ring, which (if fitting tight) should get the housing sealed.
Go on and try. External antennas are not absolutly safe. We had many problems
with Garmin's internal failures. If you check the proper o-ring and seal the
incoming RG-58 cable, this should last for a while with lower costs.
Enno Remmers/RV-8
AERO-SHOP Remmers & Partner
Siegburg/Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Jig Free to Good Home |
It will take less time and effort to build the jig yourself then it would to get
someone else's and move it. Email me if you would like a detailed description.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
> In a message dated 8/26/98 7:26:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> > I went to you HANGER to look at it... oh well... I can't do much more than
> > call, email, and go to your hanger. Sigh....
>
> PLEASE NOTE (to the rest of the list, lest you all think I'm some sort of
> scumbag...)
>
> You did ALL these things well after I had already promised the jig to someone
> else. As a point of fact, you e-mailed beginning Wednesday morning at 6AM and
> called my office at 8:15AM. I responded to your e-mailssss (that's plural) at
> about 9:20 a.m. I don't know what made you think the jig was at my hangar or
> even how you know where my hangar is, but if flying up here was anything other
> than a pleasure flight, I think it would have been wise for you to have at
> least waited for some response from me.
>
> I appreciate your interest and enthusiasm for the project, but unilaterally
> sending 3 e-mail messages within 2-1/2 hours, leaving a voice mail message and
> flying to my home airport doesn't mean anything if somebody else confirmed
> that they wanted the jig last night.
>
> Rod Woodard
> Loveland, Colorado
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: Rumor Control, APPOLOGY |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling rudder stiffeners |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>>
>Chris,
>
>correct. I drilled the hole in the stiffner on the spar end(1/4" from
>end of stiffener) then drilled the hole on the trailing edge of
>stiffener(9/16"). This make each end hole correct. Then starting from
>the spar end I drilled the other holes at 1 1/2" spacing(used a drill
>jig). When you get down to the trailing edge of stiffener and you don't
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6a wings
Chris,
I can't really tell from the context if this is what Jerry is suggesting,
but I want to warn you against a possible intrepretation of the above:
DO NOT drill to the skin and table by drilling one end, then the other,
then filling in inbetween. This will possibly cause a puch in the skin
between rivets. If this scheme is carried out in a jig simply to
achive spacing, then with the holes pre-drilled in the stiffener, drill
the stiffener to the skin but start at one end and work down the stiffener.
This will flatten out the skin as you go (you are celcoing to the table).
Sorry Jerry if that's what you were getting at in the first place.
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 Emp, elevators on the bench, wings on the waaaaayyyy!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
>I'll bet a ball valve with the proper sized inlet/outlet would do the same
>thing, only cheaper. ...
>but a switch to the high press side ... will cure this
>symptom.
In fact, that is how the parking brake works on the Comanche. The valve is
a dual unit between the master cylinders and the slave cylinders. Close
the valve and it traps brake hydraulic pressure.
You do have to consider what happens if you inadvertanly turn it on when
you aren't trying to park. Presto! Instant brake failure. Apparently
there are (were?) idiots out there doing this (seems to me you would have
to be pretty stupid but...) so an AD comes out requiring a placard on the
panel informing you that the brakes won't work if the parking break handle
is pulled. Yeah, right, like someone is going to stop to read the placards
while their aircraft is getting ready to roll into another airplane. :^)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
A
>
>I entertained the idea of a solid link and last night I tried it. I used
>some 1/2" 4130 tube with a .065 wall. Two rod end bearings screwed in,
>drilled and roll pinned completed the setup. Some minor bending to clear
>the rudder and align the rod ends was needed.
I talked to Terry today and he informed me that that link is only on one
side. This means that it replaces two springs and chains. I will wait for
his subsequent reports as I never did like the standard set up
Tom Martin HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
Glad to see that this method is being tried in place of the chains and
springs on an RV-6. I mentioned earlier in the week that it worked very
well on my Tailwind. Be sure to let us know your results. I intend to use
the same method.
Bob
San Antonio
RV-6; wheel pants
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Martin [SMTP:fairlea(at)execulink.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 1998 1:47 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment
A
>
>I entertained the idea of a solid link and last night I tried it. I
used
>some 1/2" 4130 tube with a .065 wall. Two rod end bearings screwed
in,
>drilled and roll pinned completed the setup. Some minor bending to
clear
>the rudder and align the rod ends was needed.
I talked to Terry today and he informed me that that link is only on
one
side. This means that it replaces two springs and chains. I will
wait for
his subsequent reports as I never did like the standard set up
Tom Martin HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
<< In fact, that is how the parking brake works on the Comanche. The valve is
a dual unit between the master cylinders and the slave cylinders. Close
the valve and it traps brake hydraulic pressure.
You do have to consider what happens if you inadvertanly turn it on when
you aren't trying to park. Presto! Instant brake failure.
snip good AD info
Brian Lloyd >>
Brian:
Putting an expensive two-port valve between the master and the slave cyl will
give you brake failure (if engaged) like you said. I suggested a different
valve placement, putting the valve between the master cyls and the reservior,
like Mooney did. You could use a single, less expensive valve this way, and it
would seem that this one valve would hold hyd press too. It would seem that
you *might* get some minimal braking with the valve closed, too.
Any Mooney drivers on the list? Does the parking brake system function easily
with minimal maintenence? KISS, ya know.
Check six!
Mark
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
<< In fact, that is how the parking brake works on the Comanche. The valve is
a dual unit between the master cylinders and the slave cylinders. Close
the valve and it traps brake hydraulic pressure.
You do have to consider what happens if you inadvertanly turn it on when
you aren't trying to park. Presto! Instant brake failure.
snip good AD info
Brian Lloyd >>
Brian:
Putting an expensive two-port valve between the master and the slave cyl will
give you brake failure (if engaged) like you said. I suggested a different
valve placement, putting the valve between the master cyls and the reservior,
like Mooney did. You could use a single, less expensive valve this way, and it
would seem that this one valve would hold hyd press too. It would seem that
you *might* get some minimal braking with the valve closed, too.
Any Mooney drivers on the list? Does the parking brake system function easily
with minimal maintenence? KISS, ya know.
Check six!
Mark
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robin.y.wessel(at)exgate.tek.com |
| Subject: | preliminary survey results |
Listers-
Thanks for filling out the RV survey. In past 5 hours I have received about
50 entries. I plan on posting some comprehensive results of the survey in
about 1 week.
________________________________________________________________________________
Average builder/flyer age = 44.3 -I guess the red Corvette didn't make it
for your mid-life crisis!
Average builder/flyer flying hours = 1109 -There are lots of people in the
multiple thousands and the rest at 600 or less
if you have not already filled out the survey please do!
<http://robin.getbiz.net/survey.htm>
thanks,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A wing
Ann Arbor, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Don,
I think the RTV is just cushion vibration and alleviate the possibility of
cracking. If it was me, I'd just continue building and not worry about it.
You can always build another rudder if you feel differently about it when
you're finished the rest of the plane or when you notice cracking.
Just my .02
Bill Pagan
80555 - closing the wings
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
>Recently I got my rudder all closed up, stood back to admire it... and
>realized that I forgot the RTV.
>
>Does anybody know a way to get the goo in after it's closed up? I keep
>imagining things like a real long hypodermic needle with a 90-degree bend
>at the end, but haven't figured out where to get one or how to get RTV into
>it. I also doubt that I would be able to press hard enough to get RTV to
>flow through 2 feet of teeny little needle.
>
>I imagined drilling little bitty holes and somehow injecting it that way,
>or somehow filling up the whole trailing edge with blue goo. I can't even
>begin to imagine drilling out all those rivets. I think I'd rather build a
>whole new rudder than do that.
>
>How important is it anyhow?
>Don Hyde
>Quincy, IL
>6A, Building! VS done,
>Working on rudder.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airtech Inc Engines |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Shelby,
I purchased my engine - O320-D1A - from Dick Waters. I had 1135
trouble free Hrs on it. Then my front gear leg collapsed and I sent it
back to him for a prop strike checkout. The price was excellent and the
service was exceptional... No complaints at all wit Dick....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | $$ saving head's up (was bend over, etc.) |
>...I hope others have not been discouraged from posting items that
> may save some of us "only" $300. I am in the group that still considers
> $300 an amount worth saving if possible.
Me too. So here's one.
If you order an engine "drop-shipped" directly from Lycoming instead of
from Van's stock, and you expect to put it on your plane soon, you can
save yourself $200 by NOT specifying the "long term storage" option.
I ordered mine with this option because I thought it meant I'd get the
dessicant plugs and preservative oil. Turns out the dessicant plugs are
not included in any case and the preservative oil is in there either
way. The option is mainly just for a vacum sealed plastic bag around
the engine and expando-foam in the crate, which I promptly cut open and
threw away when I got it since I was ready to put it on the plane right
away. Dessicant plugs can be got from ACS for $2.50 ea.
I don't blame Vans for this (although I think it would be nice if they'd
add an explanation of what the option is in the catalog). I just made a
wrong assumption about what long-term storage was, and it cost me $200.
Hopefully this information will save someone else from making the same
mistake.
Note that ALL engines ordered from Van's stock DO have this option since
they can sit on the shelf a while if they go there first. So if you
order from stock you should expect to pay this in any case (says so in
the catalog).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: preliminary survey results |
robin,
what was the average primer used ( just kidding :o )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
Bob
I didn't!
Bill
80555-ready to close wings
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
It seems to me that if I had to do
>it on the tail, I should have to do it on the wings. Advice anyone?
>
> Bob
>RV8 #423
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: Rumor Control, APPOLOGY |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
Has anyone checked to see what happens to the
geomerty of the tail wheel setup? Does the distance
from the tailwheel steering horn to the rudder horn
change with verticle movement of the tailwheel?
What about shock and vibration loads? Would not
the spring set up absorb thesr loads?
RVer273sb CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling rudder stiffeners |
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
>
> In a previous message, it was written:
> >
> >>
> >Chris,
> >
> >correct. I drilled the hole in the stiffner on the spar end(1/4" from
> >end of stiffener) then drilled the hole on the trailing edge of
> >stiffener(9/16"). This make each end hole correct. Then starting from
> >the spar end I drilled the other holes at 1 1/2" spacing(used a drill
> >jig). When you get down to the trailing edge of stiffener and you don't
> >
> >Jerry Calvert
> >Edmond Ok -6a wings
>
> Chris,
> I can't really tell from the context if this is what Jerry is suggesting,
> but I want to warn you against a possible intrepretation of the above:
> DO NOT drill to the skin and table by drilling one end, then the other,
> then filling in inbetween. This will possibly cause a puch in the skin
> between rivets. If this scheme is carried out in a jig simply to
> achive spacing, then with the holes pre-drilled in the stiffener, drill
> the stiffener to the skin but start at one end and work down the stiffener.
> This will flatten out the skin as you go (you are celcoing to the table).
> Sorry Jerry if that's what you were getting at in the first place.
> :)
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 Emp, elevators on the bench, wings on the waaaaayyyy!
>
Mike,
Sorry for not being clear. The process for I detailed for Chris is for
drilling the holes in the stiffeners only!! Once the stiffeners are
drilled, then they are drilled to the skin starting at one end and
working to the other end. My drill jig is like Orndorff's for drilling
the stiffners. Your are correct though, if a stiffner is drilled to the
skin as you described, you will have BIG problems!!
Thanks
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
>
>Putting an expensive two-port valve between the master and the slave cyl will
>give you brake failure (if engaged) like you said. I suggested a different
>valve placement, putting the valve between the master cyls and the reservior,
>like Mooney did. You could use a single, less expensive valve this way,
and it
>would seem that this one valve would hold hyd press too. It would seem that
>you *might* get some minimal braking with the valve closed, too.
>
>Any Mooney drivers on the list? Does the parking brake system function easily
>with minimal maintenence? KISS, ya know.
I would hope you get to know me before you KISS me. :^)
All kidding aside, I would want to see how that holds the pressure. I know
that everything on the high pressure side of the master cylinder is
designed to hold pressure but I am not sure that the low pressure/reservoir
side of the master cyl is. I guess it would depend on the design of the
seals in the master cyl. Putting the parking brake valve on the high
pressure side will always work regardless of the design the master cyl.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Mail Editing on Return |
Matt,
I Emailed a message today and when it came across the list is was missing
my copy. Are you now editing out the return body to the sender. If not I
may be having a problem.
Let me know. You should be able to check my message(s) for today
Thanks Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake Pad Break-in |
If they are Cleveland, holes mean organic, correct.
Brian Eckstein
----------
>
>
> Hal,
> The wheel bearings come packed with grease. As I recall, my brake pads had
> rivet holes, making them organic. Right?
>
> Regards,
> Tom Craig-Stearman
> tcraigst(at)ionet.net
> RV-4 64ST mounting oil filler door
>
>
>
> >
> >Don't tell me I have to remove wheels & brakes again! Do we have the
> organic
> >pads?
> >
> >I don't remember packing wheel bearings, am I just getting forgetful or
> were
> >they already packed? Or worse, did I just skip that step?
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Don,
>
> you know you'd rather drill out all those rivets rather than
>starting all over
>again but I really do feel for you.
> In the same thread. I'm doing the ailerons for my "8" and I didn't
>see anything
>about using RTV on the ends of the stiffeners. It seems to me that
>if I had to do
>it on the tail, I should have to do it on the wings. Advice anyone?
>
> Bob
>RV8 #423
>
Bob,
My understanding is that in the early days, no RTV was used. Then
people, usually those with 180 hp or higher engines, started getting
cracks in the elevator and/or rudder skin at the last rivet. Someone
came up with the idea of using RTV to damp any vibration, and it
seemed to work, so Van recommended its use.
The ailerons have not been a problem, so don't bother with the RTV.
I hope I have not offended anyone by implying that Van's design was
not perfect from the start ;-) We don't need another flame war on
what used to be a very calm, professional, indispensable, e-mail list.
Happy building,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | $$ saving head's up |
Randall Henderson wrote:
Randall and all,
I did exactly the same thing. I ordered my 0-360 before I knew for sure that I
was going to be a Edwards flight testing our new airplane for 3 or 4 months.
With that possibility, I ordered the long term storage. I had my engine drop
shipped, got it, and promptly opened the vacuum bag to admire my new piece of
hardware. Afterwards I figured out it was part of the storage...Duh...I guess
it's not so bad because it's being kept in the air conditioned shop here at work
until I have time to hang it. I do have to keep an eye on it as there are
a couple of other builders here (an RV-6, a Glastar, and a new style Express)
who keep drooling all over it. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't buy the long
term storage.
Laird in SoCal
RV-6 22923 (operated the flaps electrically last night...cool!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I have written Brian to apologize personally for referring to him with
less
than flowery prose.
My post to Don was supposed to go directly to Don only, but through
a couple of wrong keystrokes I made an ass of myself to the entire RV
community.
I apologize for the post.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
>I'm doing the ailerons for my "8" and I didn't see anything
about using RTV on the ends of the stiffeners. It seems to me that if I had
to do
it on the tail, I should have to do it on the wings. Advice anyone?<
I had the same question and Van's said "DON'T DO IT!"
The ailerons are out of the prop wash and are not subject to much
vibration. It would also throw off the balance.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Wing skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
Don,
Forget about the RTV and get on with your project. According to Van's, if
your stiffners are properly placed and riveted with minimal edge distance
at the trainling edge the chance of a crack are slim. You wil at least
have a couple years of enjoyment and can always make a new rudder while you
are flying if you detect a crack.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
Wing skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
True confessions:
I too forgot the RTV in one elevator. My thinking is that I will just build
a new one if it cracks.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 mounting oil filler door
>
>Recently I got my rudder all closed up, stood back to admire it... and
>realized that I forgot the RTV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Drill in Assembly |
Note, however, that the #12 gives a looser fit than the 3/16ths.
hal
> Since you said you drilled but didn't rivet does hat mean that the are
> still #30 sized pilot holes? If so, then I'm sure you are OK. If so, then
>I'm sure you are OK.
>If they are finished up to 3/16 (#12)....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Mounting Dstances |
>
>
> The only thing I would add to your other post replies is that he now
> includes a hanger system with the 6 crossover exhaust system as part of
> the price. It is an elegantly simple yet adjusttable system which I
> can't describe but with which I am very happy. My plane was the
> prototype for this system :). I have tried my best to break it for him
> but have been unable.
Question - I just received my exhaust system and am very impressed however I am
not sure how far below the firewall the tail pies should hang. Mr. Vetterman has
made an incredibly simple but elegant hanger system for these pipes and I could
lower the pipes at least 6 inches below the firewall if necessary. Have any of
you builders ahead of me have any thoughts on the matter?
Thanks in advance
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
700 hrs on my RV-6. No goo. No cracks. Don't waste your time worrying about
this.
Limaluk(at)AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
700 hrs on my RV-6. No goo. No cracks. Don't waste your time worrying about
this.
Limaluk(at)AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Mounting |
I'm in the process of mounting the rudder pedals (the overhead variety) in my
RV-6. I predrilled the two outside UMHW blocks to the skeleton (up against
the outside skin, just like the blueprint seems to show). When I did this, I
thought " Hmm, the side skins are not parallel at that point, and the
weldment is gonna want parallel bearings, but I guess the UMHW has enough play
in it so that won't be a problem."
Well, it seems to be a problem. When I put the weldment in place, it pulls
one of the UHMW blocks out from the side of the fuse far enough where the rear
bolt won't fit. Funny enough, it seems to pull the block just far enough so
it is parallel to the other block.
Any suggestions other than "Buy 2 more UHMW blocks"??
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Prop vibration - 0-320 |
I didn't hear any mention of possible engine problems or counterweight errors ??
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michelle Hancock <mhancock(at)freewwweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Prep for Proseal |
use 409 full strength & hot water, Scuff metal with 180 grit sandpaper . Do the
final
cleaning with coleman fuel, available at any Wal-Mart store. Thanks Seth Hancock
JFW9855(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Can any listers reccommend a cleaning agent to use when preparing my wing
> skins and ribs for proseal application. I have tried naptha and a lacquer
> thinner but both leave streaks while failing to remove stains from sweat,body
> oil etc. Also can the inside of the tank be sanded with a scotch brite pad to
> remove some of the aforementioned stains and discolorations? Thanks in
> advance.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: preliminary survey results |
>
> robin,
> what was the average primer used ( just kidding :o )
Don't laugh now, but I just bought an RV6 empanage kit and I've deleted all the
primer questions for months. Now I'll have to start asking all the dumb questions
I use to delete. It's been yrs. since I built my 4 and I haven't kept up with what's
best today.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Is there anyone on the list with a QB-6A slider web page with pictures?
Or that I can possibly call for help in evening hours?
Regards Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Michael,
THEY ARE HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After UPS finally got them going in a northerly dirrection - not zig-zagging
across the south, they were here in 2 days.
Seats are great! Haven't taken them out to the shop at the airport yet but
sitting in them on the floor finds them very comfortable. I was a little
concerned after seeing Jon at OSHKOSH. He is taller and trimmer than I! I am
5-9, 180 lbs, he is much taller and probably doesn't weight 180 lbs. Still,
the seats fit me perfectly!
Thanks again for your coordination efforts.
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
RV-4, canopy, instruments, install engine and cowl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
Listers (meaning those who took Matt's *invitation* to join the list
seriously and therefore *respectfully* follow his rules in the FAQ...i.e.
not those who participate in flaming, name calling, bickering, making
unfounded accusations, pointed sarcasm, etc...you know who you are...please
get off the list if you can't follow the rules):
Given the recent thread on cost-effective GPS antennas, and my previous
mentioning of a low-cost unit on the list...I offer this *VERY*
unscientific test of the amplified/active Lowe Electronics GPS antenna at
$65 USD delivered (www.lowe.co.uk).
I purchased a Skyforce Skymap II to have both a panel mounted and portable
GPS solution for my RV-6. I did not want to spend $350+ dollars on an
"aviation" GPS antenna, so after researcing the specifications of the Lowe
unit (it meet or beat most Comant and like specs), and given it is a
supposed clone of the Terra/Trimble antenna, I gambled on trying it out for
the cost.
I have not flown with it yet, but after trying it here on the ground just
now after receiving it, it should be great in the air. I live in a
cul-de-sac of small freestanding townhomes, all two-story and about 10-15
ft. apart, so there is NOT a lot of sky available from my patio.
I tried the stock antenna first, and recieved three satellites. Trying the
Lowe antenna, I got FIVE locked satellites, and another two being recieved
but with no lock!
Moving indoors, with the only sight picture from the living room coffee
table being the sliding glass door (with the next door neighboor's garage
wall 12ft. away), the stock antenna registered zero satellites. Plugged in
the Lowe, two solid locks!
It seems to perform great...plus its only about 1 5/8" x 2" x 1/2"...far
smaller than others.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Hey guys, I know this has nothing to do with shipping costs, but I'd
like to ask an engine question. I'm starting to look for a powerplant,
and am torn between the 200hp Angle Valve IO-360 and an O-360 with
aftermarket fuel injection. Here is what I ahve heard so far. Please let
me know if you know different:
-200hp IO-360A does not really produce 200 hp, it Dynos about 190.
-IO-360A's counterweighted crank is not good for aerobatics, or idle
approaches
-IO-360A is 55lbs heavier then a 180hp IO-360
-Angle valves can be a maintenance problem
________________________________________________________________________________
going to get an O-360, and add an aftermarket fuel injection system, and
maybe high compression pistons. What else can I do to increase
performance safely? Does anyone have any suggestions? Can anyone suggest
a good engine shop?
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
writes:
>
>I have been following the steering chain issue with some interest. I
>was
>never happy with the draggy springs, but they functioned just fine.
>That
>was until I built a new rudder to replace the old cracked one. Slight
>changes in dimensions meant that I couldn't get it just right.
>Removing
>one link made it to tight, adding one made it far to loose.
>
>I entertained the idea of a solid link and last night I tried it. I
>used
>some 1/2" 4130 tube with a .065 wall. Two rod end bearings screwed in,
>drilled and roll pinned completed the setup. Some minor bending to
>clear
>the rudder and align the rod ends was needed.
>
>I had to go flying to try it out. Response is positive and lively on
>the
>ground. I found I was less prone to use brakes to steer. It wasn't
>anymore difficult to get use to than the responsive feel we all have
>come to love in our RV's when we fly. I tried some cross wind landings
>as well. I was concerned that landing with the rudder and wheel cocked
>might be a problem. Wasn't a problem. Even in fairly brisk crosswinds
>the rudder is not deflected all that much.
>
>Conclusion: I like it. I will fly some more before I adopt it forever.
>The assembly is less complicated and lighter than the springs. Gained
>5-10 knots because of the cleaner installation ; )
>
>Terry Jantzi
>RV-6 C-GZRV
>Kitchener
>
>Terry (and list),
I am not meaning to say that this is entirely a bad idea but thought I
would mention to use caution.
The tail wheel on an RV takes a lot of abuse. It gets banged and jarred
repeatedly (particularly if you use grass or dirt strips).
With a direct link to the tail wheel you are transferring every bang and
jar that the tail wheel feels, directly into the rudder, its hinging
system, and it's control system.
If you wish to change from a system that has worked many thousands of
hours on RV's (and many other airplanes)
please closely monitor the condition of everything related to this
portion of the airplane for problems that could develop before they
become serious.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Recently I got my rudder all closed up, stood back to admire it... and
>realized that I forgot the RTV.
>
>How important is it anyhow?
>Don Hyde
>
Don,
I would just keep on building and not worry about it.
This is a preventative measure and not all RV's even ever have the
problem (because of many other factors other than just whether they had
RTV installed).
When I sold my RV-6A it had about 650 Hrs and no cracks on the elevators.
It did have 2 small ones that had started on the rudder. I probably
would have needed to repair/replace it in another couple years or so,
which if you had the same experience would give you a lot of flying
before you needed to worry about it.
Another poster asked the question about doing the ailerons.
They have never seemed to have much evidence of the cracking problem if
built correctly.
The skins are much shorter in cord, and they are not flying in the very
turbulent prop wash.
It wont hurt doing it if you want do it on the ailerons, but go easy on
the rtv. From what I have seen most builders go way overboard which can
have effect on the control surface balance.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Mounting |
I wrote:
>I'm in the process of mounting the rudder pedals (the overhead variety) in my
>RV-6. I predrilled the two outside UMHW blocks to the skeleton (up against
>the outside skin, just like the blueprint seems to show). When I did this, I
>thought " Hmm, the side skins are not parallel at that point, and the
>weldment is gonna want parallel bearings, but I guess the UMHW has enough
>play in it so that won't be a problem."
>Well, it seems to be a problem. When I put the weldment in place, it pulls
>one of the UHMW blocks out from the side of the fuse far enough where the
rear
>bolt won't fit. Funny enough, it seems to pull the block just far enough so
>it is parallel to the other block.
Don't tell me the answer... I figured it out all by myself! (Wonders never
cease.) The UHMW blocks for the rudder pedals come drilled along a skewed
axis, so each block has a back and a front... They won't fit the other way.
Kyle (my gotcha list must be into triple digits) Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drill in Assembly |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Note, however, that the #12 gives a looser fit than the 3/16ths.
>
>hal
>
True!
But if you drill a perfect true to size 3/16 hole it is quite difficult
to put an AN3 (3/16) bolt into it because the are essentially the same
size.
Which is the same reason that we use a #40 (or for some builders #41)
hole for a 3/32 rivet.
Try drilling a hole with a 3/32 bit and then slip a rivet into it!
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
ace between the firewall
bottom and the cowl scoop.
The lower you put them the better it is for reducing noise, exhaust
drumming on the belly, and exhaust stains on the belly.
The higher you keep them the more aft the exhaust blast is (maybe slight
speed benefit) and possibly less drag keeping them well out of the slip
stream.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Horace W. Weeks" <74664.2105(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Mounting |
The UHMW blocks are bored at an angle to compensate for the angle of the
longerons. You can check each block to determine the angle and then mount
it on the longeron to allow each rudder pivot tube to be in alignment; i.e.
turn the block that seems wrong end for end and it should fit OK. I guess
I am trying to say that there is no difference between the right side block
and the left side block. Just flip it over if it doesn't seem to fit.
Ace Weeks
RV-6 Working on the instrument panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Mounting Dstances |
If you fit the traditional scoop on in the traditional manner, you will
probably find some interference in putting your pipes six inches below the
firewall. Of course, I guess you could cut some slots in the scoop for
them!
Actually, on my -6A with 0-360A1A there's just barely enough clearance on
the left pipe when it's placed in the optimum position (turn down pointed in
and pipe about 3/8" below the firewall) so that it won't burn the type S
cowl without installing a heat shield. I just talked to Larry last night
and ordered the hanger kit. He mentioned that the honeycomb area of the
type S cowl is somewhat thicker which also contributes to the close fit.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/ Tacoma WA
>not sure how far below the firewall the tail pies should hang. Mr.
Vetterman has
>made an incredibly simple but elegant hanger system for these pipes and I
could
>lower the pipes at least 6 inches below the firewall if necessary. Have
any of
>you builders ahead of me have any thoughts on the matter?
>
>Thanks in advance
>DGM RV-6
>Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Mounting |
Kyle,
Check the blocks carefully. The holes are not drilled perpendicular but
are at a slight angle to accomodate this. Swap and rotate the blocks til
they match the skins. If you've already drilled the fuselage and they no
longer match you can shift them fore or aft and drill new mounting holes.
Many people drill multiple sets of mounting holes so they can shift the
pedals later.
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
I'm in the process of mounting the rudder pedals (the overhead variety) in
my
RV-6. I predrilled the two outside UMHW blocks to the skeleton (up against
the outside skin, just like the blueprint seems to show). When I did this,
I
thought " Hmm, the side skins are not parallel at that point, and the
weldment is gonna want parallel bearings, but I guess the UMHW has enough
play
in it so that won't be a problem."
Well, it seems to be a problem. When I put the weldment in place, it pulls
one of the UHMW blocks out from the side of the fuse far enough where the
rear
bolt won't fit. Funny enough, it seems to pull the block just far enough
so
it is parallel to the other block.
Any suggestions other than "Buy 2 more UHMW blocks"??
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting |
> I'm in the process of mounting the rudder pedals (the overhead variety) in my
> RV-6. I predrilled the two outside UMHW blocks to the skeleton (up against
> the outside skin, just like the blueprint seems to show). When I did this, I
> thought " Hmm, the side skins are not parallel at that point, and the
> weldment is gonna want parallel bearings, but I guess the UMHW has enough play
> in it so that won't be a problem."
>
> Well, it seems to be a problem. When I put the weldment in place, it pulls
> one of the UHMW blocks out from the side of the fuse far enough where the rear
> bolt won't fit. Funny enough, it seems to pull the block just far enough so
> it is parallel to the other block.
>
> Any suggestions other than "Buy 2 more UHMW blocks"??
>
> Kyle Boatright
Kyle - I has been awhile but I recall the same thought process when I hung my
rudder pedals. I found that if you look real careful you will find that Van's
drills the rudder cross shaft holes at a slight angle to take care of the narrower
measurement at the front. I found that a bit of switching the UHMW around will
help you find the angle that works best and all will be well again. Keep building
- it gets lots better from now on :-)
DGM RV-6 Finish kit
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
Rob; The GPS antenna you got from Lowes Electronics sounds great. Will it work
with the Garmin Pilot III? I assume it will work with any GPS. Can you give a
model # and more specifics? I would like to try one.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
>
> Rob; The GPS antenna you got from Lowes Electronics sounds great. Will it
work
> with the Garmin Pilot III? I assume it will work with any GPS. Can you
give a
> model # and more specifics? I would like to try one.
The antenna comes standard with a BNC connector. Lowe also has available a
BNC to MCX (garmin type) adapter at reasonable cost. Check out the web
site for details/specifics/prices.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, finishing up canopy skirts).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
MoeJoe wrote:
>
>
> Hey guys, I know this has nothing to do with shipping costs, but I'd
> like to ask an engine question. I'm starting to look for a powerplant,
> and am torn between the 200hp Angle Valve IO-360 and an O-360 with
> aftermarket fuel injection. Here is what I ahve heard so far...
> maybe high compression pistons. What else can I do to increase
> performance safely? Does anyone have any suggestions? Can anyone
Moe,
Lycoming did make a fuel-injected PARALLEL valve, non-counterweighted
360 engine. It is designated as an IO-360B1B, and this is pretty
much what you will have if you add a Bendix fuel injector to an
O-360A1A (the model that Van's sells).
Fuel injection does not buy more horsepower, but rather better
fuel distribution, which allows for more agressive leaning without
engine roughness, and thus better economy. Less susceptible to
icing, and aerobatic also.
The more HP available from an IO-360A1A comes from:
1) A better induction system ('tuned' induction)
2) Angle valve cylinders, which supposedly 'flow' better
3) Higher compression (8.7 vs 8.5, if I recall correctly)
4) I think Lycoming introduced a different (from other
engine models) camshaft for this engine sometime during
its production. I have been told by an engine shop that
the differences are minor.
It is possible to make the IO-360A1A induction system
fit on an O-360, I think you have to bend the induction
pipes slightly. I bought an engine with this mod, but
ultimately traded it (induction system) for the original
style, since I have an RV-4 and did not feel like reworking
the cowl (should be no problem for an RV-8)
It is also possible, and quite easy to raise the compression by
putting in different pistons. I'm using 9:1 myself, and there
are 10.5:1 pistons available. My engine 'consultant' estimated
10 extra HP from raising compression ratio from 8.5 to 9.0.
Incidentally, the XP-360 engine (new on the marketplace, it's
a Lyc 0-360 clone built with parts from Superior), uses these
same pistons, for an dyno'ed 190 HP, they claim.
All that said, the quick, easy way to get more HP is to simply
over-rev the engine. There are many 150HP-160HP RVs that get
some _very_ good performance numbers using this strategy. The
wood props seem to take such over-reving in stride, but I would
not do this if you are going to use a constant-speed prop (or any
metal prop, for that matter). Dave Ander's very fast RV-4 uses
the big angle-valve engine AND high compression AND he over-revs his
constant-speed prop (AND a bunch of other mods as well). However,
he reports that this prop gets _much_ better care and inspections
than is the norm, including annual disassembly and X-RAYs, if I
recall correctly.
Is over-revving the engine by 8% or so 'hard' on it? Will
it decrease TBO? By how much? I don't know the answer. I suspect
most of the listers don't know either, but I still be interested
in their opinions. I'll venture a guess that among experimental
aircraft, there exists a body of evidence to suggest that
over-reving a carefully-put-together Lycoming engine/wood prop
will not result in a catastrophic failure within the first few
hundred hours.
I apologize for getting so long-winded.
Blake Harral
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
That's great, Wally. I'm glad they finally made it, safe and
sound. See ya on the list. Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Unscientific RV survey |
In a message dated 8/27/98 9:58:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
robin.y.wessel(at)exgate.tek.com writes:
> Being a builder, I
> alway wanted to know what other people are putting into their RV's.
Aluminum and rivets. Lots of rivets.
Mark McGee
RV 4 Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
Blake @ All
I juts had an LIO360 C1E6 Overhauled for my Seneca, I have about 500 hours
left on my left engine IO360 C1E6 - my thinking was to startr shopping for a
Case, Cam & Crank, now - re-build the motor & install it on the Seneca, the
take the existing
IO360 C1E6 and rebuild it for the RV6.
The question is will a C1E6 work on the RV ?
BSivori @AOL.Com
Wings Closed
N929RV ( Reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Unscientific RV survey |
<< Being a builder, I
> alway wanted to know what other people are putting into their RV's.
>>
Money, Lots of Money - Lot's of Time - However what do we get out of it.?
Besides a great Airplane to fly and have fun with - the knowledge that a
Novice Builder like my self has gained by its self is priceless, along with
all the E-Mail
friends on the list, and the other CRAZY BUILDERS we meet.
We will not speak of Arguements with the wife, etc that comes with the
territory
BSivori(at)AOL.Com
N929RV ( Reserved )
Wings CLosed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Direct Tail Wheel Steering |
<< I am not meaning to say that this is entirely a bad idea but thought I
would mention to use caution.
The tail wheel on an RV takes a lot of abuse. It gets banged and jarred
repeatedly (particularly if you use grass or dirt strips).
With a direct link to the tail wheel you are transferring every bang and
jar that the tail wheel feels, directly into the rudder, its hinging
system, and it's control system.
snip
Scott McDaniels >>
Now I remember why the direct connection was not always a good idea! That
would explain the ONE tube connection I saw with a slip joint and a spring in
the middle. How difficult and heavy would such a connection be? It would seem
to weigh the same as the springs/chains, but it might be somewhat more
streamlined. Maybe one of the machinists on the list will come up with a
prototype....
Dang. There goes my 10 kt speed increase.. :-(
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietig(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Conical engine mounts |
For some reason, I am having a hard time trying to locate the part number and
a
product source for conical engine mounts. These are the straight mounts for an
acrobatic IO-360 engine (hard rubber biscuits). The good people at the Lord
Corporation seem to want to build me a new "wheel". I'm just looking for an "off
the shelf" hard rubber mount. Thanks.
Chuck Brietigam. RV-3 coming out of the paint shop this weekend!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
>
> Has anyone checked to see what happens to the
> geomerty of the tail wheel setup? Does the distance
> from the tailwheel steering horn to the rudder horn
> change with verticle movement of the tailwheel?
> What about shock and vibration loads? Would not
> the spring set up absorb thesr loads?
Yes it does change. When the tail spring unloads, the distance
increases. I don't know how much deflection the spring goes through
during a hard landing. I set the link up for the loaded condition. The
rod end bearings if aligned properly will easily accommodate the change
in angle. I bounced the tail up and down and as the distance changes the
rudder deflects a tiny amount each way. The only time consuming
adjustment is getting the full swivel tailwheel to unlock at the same
time on both sides. My tailwheel unlatches just before the rudder hits
the stop. The first time I tried, it the wheel wouldn't unlock on the
right side. Shortening the link (its on the left side) a little tiny bit
allowed everything to work properly.
I don't know how much of a maintenance item the rod ends will be. They
are in a vibration area during taxing. I put the rod ends on top of the
rudder and tail wheel horn for easy inspection. I haven't cut the right
hand horn off the tailwheel yet as this is an experiment only.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
SCOTT R MCDANIELS wrote:
> >Terry (and list),
> I am not meaning to say that this is entirely a bad idea but thought I
> would mention to use caution.
> The tail wheel on an RV takes a lot of abuse. It gets banged and jarred
> repeatedly (particularly if you use grass or dirt strips).
>
> With a direct link to the tail wheel you are transferring every bang and
> jar that the tail wheel feels, directly into the rudder, its hinging
> system, and it's control system.
Yes this does concern me. I don't necessarily want to build a new rudder
anytime soon. I didn't feel any alarming bangs and jars being
transmitted back through the system during high speed taxiing and during
landing. Admittedly I do fly off of fairly smooth runways.
One very big benefit that I have noticed. My wet compass which is
mounted on the glare shield has stopped shaking. I have had the prop
dynamically balanced and have a silky smooth engine at cruise settings.
However, the compass sitting on a very bouncy part of the glare shield
has always vibrated. Tom Martin when flying beside me has commented on
the springs fluttering. They actually got worse after I had shrink tubed
the chains and the big spring. I was tryin to visually and
aerodymanically clean up that area. With the rigid link there is less
chance for flutter.
Maybe the lesser vibration in flight will provide more benefits than the
periodic stresses experienced during ground operations. I do have a lot
of money invested in the panel for toys that like a smooth enviroment.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener
RV-6 C-GZRV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AN BOLT SIZES |
Dear listers,
about to install all those angles to the main spar, the bag of bolts (
bunches of different sizes ) my question, where can i find a chart so i can
find the correct size bolt for the right station, i'm not familiar with -15
-8 etc. i know their all the same diameter, but i can't translate the
lenght, also there are 2 bolts with holes drilled in the ends, i don,t want
to put those in the wrong place, any help
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Direct Tail Wheel Steering |
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Now I remember why the direct connection was not always a good idea! That
> would explain the ONE tube connection I saw with a slip joint and a spring in
> the middle. How difficult and heavy would such a connection be? It would seem
> to weigh the same as the springs/chains, but it might be somewhat more
> streamlined. Maybe one of the machinists on the list will come up with a
> prototype....
I have already thought of that and am working on the Mark II version. I
won't be happy until my new improved steering link is heavier and has a
higher parts count than the system it was designed to replace. That is
evolution, right?
>
> Dang. There goes my 10 kt speed increase.. :-(
>
> Check six!
> Mark
Carefull unbiased testing has shown a 15 kt increase :-)
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Mounting Dstances |
This question and answers are very timely. I'm ordering my hangers
from Vetterman today and needed that same question answered.
Thanks!
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Working on the cowl inlets and FAB to scoop)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ethereal(at)SPAMnet.att.net (Student Pilot) |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Engine in RV6 |
I seem to remember some guys who were doing auto engine firewall
forward packages for the RV6. I cannot seem to find their website
anymore, does anyone know the URL?
thanks
(replace SPAMnet with worldnet in email address to reply)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
>
> You do have to consider what happens if you inadvertanly turn it on when
> you aren't trying to park. Presto! Instant brake failure.
>
>snip good AD info
>
> Brian Lloyd >>
>
All of these parking brake valves that I am aware of have a check valve in
them so even if the valve is closed it will allow brake application. However
that fluid is trapped, And so presto! Instant tire failure ;-)
I would not install one that did not have a check valve in it.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
http://www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
In a message dated 8/27/98 11:23:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
smcdaniels(at)juno.com writes:
<< Gained 5-10 knots because of the cleaner installation ; ) >>
I'm amazed at this gain in speed. How did you verify this?
Tom De Winter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
Terry,
Really appreciate your notes on your installation. I should be flying by
the end of the year and I intend to use the same arrangement you're using.
Thanks,
Bob
San Antonio
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Jantzi [SMTP:tjantzi(at)netrover.com]
Sent: Friday, August 28, 1998 7:36 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment
>
> Has anyone checked to see what happens to the
> geomerty of the tail wheel setup? Does the distance
> from the tailwheel steering horn to the rudder horn
> change with verticle movement of the tailwheel?
> What about shock and vibration loads? Would not
> the spring set up absorb thesr loads?
Yes it does change. When the tail spring unloads, the distance
increases. I don't know how much deflection the spring goes through
during a hard landing. I set the link up for the loaded condition.
The
rod end bearings if aligned properly will easily accommodate the
change
in angle. I bounced the tail up and down and as the distance changes
the
rudder deflects a tiny amount each way. The only time consuming
adjustment is getting the full swivel tailwheel to unlock at the
same
time on both sides. My tailwheel unlatches just before the rudder
hits
the stop. The first time I tried, it the wheel wouldn't unlock on
the
right side. Shortening the link (its on the left side) a little tiny
bit
allowed everything to work properly.
I don't know how much of a maintenance item the rod ends will be.
They
are in a vibration area during taxing. I put the rod ends on top of
the
rudder and tail wheel horn for easy inspection. I haven't cut the
right
hand horn off the tailwheel yet as this is an experiment only.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
Does anybody know the web page address for Lowes Electronics? The address
listed by Rob is listed as an unknown host. I would like to obtain one of
their catalogs.
Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: AN BOLT SIZES |
, where can i find a chart so i can find the correct size bolt for the
right station, i'm not familiar with -15 -8 etc. i know their all the
same diameter, but i can't translate the lenght, also there are 2
bolts with holes drilled in the ends, i
>don,t want to put those in the wrong place, any help
>scott
>winging it in tampa
Scott:
In lieu of buying the length tool , use the chart in your Aircraft S&S
catalog. IT will cover drilled heads & shakes and gives the lengths of
the dash #s.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Mounting Dstances |
Douglas G. Murray wrote:
>
> Question - I just received my exhaust system and am very impressed however I
am
> not sure how far below the firewall the tail pies should hang. Mr. Vetterman
has
> made an incredibly simple but elegant hanger system for these pipes and I could
> lower the pipes at least 6 inches below the firewall if necessary. Have any
of
> you builders ahead of me have any thoughts on the matter?
>
> Thanks in advance
> DGM RV-6
> Southern Alberta
I found that a half inch below the bottom of the firewall is optimum. When I had
it higher it banged against the hinge pin in service and much lower it bangs
against the cowl! The inboard/outboard location is equally close as the Robbins
heat muffs will want to touch the cowl at their outboard side. It is really a
close fit in the 6A so you really need all the adjustments on the hanger and on
the
muffs.
D Walsh
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: $$ saving head's up (was bend over, etc.) |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> >...I hope others have not been discouraged from posting items that
> > may save some of us "only" $300. I am in the group that still considers
> > $300 an amount worth saving if possible.
>
> Me too. So here's one.
>
> If you order an engine "drop-shipped" directly from Lycoming instead of
> from Van's stock, and you expect to put it on your plane soon, you can
> save yourself $200 by NOT specifying the "long term storage" option.
> I ordered mine with this option because I thought it meant I'd get the
> dessicant plugs and preservative oil. Turns out the dessicant plugs are
> not included in any case and the preservative oil is in there either
> way. The option is mainly just for a vacum sealed plastic bag around
> the engine and expando-foam in the crate, which I promptly cut open and
> threw away when I got it since I was ready to put it on the plane right
> away. Dessicant plugs can be got from ACS for $2.50 ea.
>
> I don't blame Vans for this (although I think it would be nice if they'd
> add an explanation of what the option is in the catalog). I just made a
> wrong assumption about what long-term storage was, and it cost me $200.
> Hopefully this information will save someone else from making the same
> mistake.
>
> Note that ALL engines ordered from Van's stock DO have this option since
> they can sit on the shelf a while if they go there first. So if you
> order from stock you should expect to pay this in any case (says so in
> the catalog).
>
This checks with my experience. I too ordered the long term storage and agree
it
is something to carefully consider, for the reasons you stated ; however there
might also be a $200 difference in shipping cost depending on where you are
receiving it and/or the agreement with the shippers!! Thsi is a complicated
choice.
I will look up my shipping cost (from vans to Denver) the next time I go to the
hangar, and maybe if you will post yours we can get a guess?
BTW I noticed the long term storage box was smaller and lighter than the other
one.
Another variable is that at the beginning of the year you may be able to get a
vans engine shipped at last years price if he has some left over. Most years it
goes up around that much or more... So it depends on when you are shopping.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
>I am seriously considering purchasing the SkymapII for my RV-4. Why did you
>choose that unit over, say, a Garmin GPS-195?
>
>Also, did you panel mount (i.e., recess), or surface mount it?
>
>Michael Pilla
Mike,
The Garmin does not have a panel mount solution (short of permanently mounting
it in a non-standard vertical cutout). I wanted something I could panel mount
(via the Skyforce rack mount) and take home with me for flight planning/other
use. If I decide to
upgrade to the latest and greatest IFR GPS later, I have a standard 6.25" cutout
ready for it.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Brown <danb(at)accex.net> |
I recall that, a couple of years ago, there was talk of Superior
producing engine kits, which would have all the parts for, say, an
O-360, but obviously wouldn't be certified (and would be assembled at
home). Never heard any more about it, until yesterday, when I saw a
post referring to an O-360 clone made with superior parts. Anyone know
what's up with this?
--
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, danb(at)accex.net
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and taste good
with ketchup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
>
>Does anybody know the web page address for Lowes Electronics? The address
>listed by Rob is listed as an unknown host.
Von,
I just tried the address I posted (http://www.lowe.co.uk), still works fine.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Auto Engine in RV6 |
STUDENT PILOT
try
http://www.beltedair.com/technical.htm
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
> << Gained 5-10 knots because of the cleaner installation ; ) >>
>
> I'm amazed at this gain in speed. How did you verify this?
>
> Tom De Winter
>
I think he is pulling your chain. LOL
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Conical engine mounts |
Chuck,
You've got an RV-3 with an AIO-360 engine in it! Let me ask you this, do
wear a "G" suit when you fly it? And does it "take off" or do you "LAUNCH"
it? Enquiring minds want to know! Al
>
> For some reason, I am having a hard time trying to locate the part number
and a
>product source for conical engine mounts. These are the straight mounts
for an
>acrobatic IO-360 engine (hard rubber biscuits). The good people at the Lord
>Corporation seem to want to build me a new "wheel". I'm just looking for
an "off
>the shelf" hard rubber mount. Thanks.
>Chuck Brietigam. RV-3 coming out of the paint shop this weekend!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McKee" <lmckee(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Engine in RV6 |
-----Original Message-----
From: Student Pilot <ethereal(at)SPAMnet.att.net>
Date: Friday, August 28, 1998 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Engine in RV6
>
>auto engine firewall >forward packages for the RV6.
>
Try Belted Air Power, Las Vegas, NV 702-384-8006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McLaughlJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AN BOLT SIZES |
Scott - there is a nice almost-pocket-sized blue covered handbook that you
need to get on aircraft hardware that lists and shows all of the pertinent
info. Mine cost ~$8 a while back, and should be available from EAA, or the
tool guys. I forget the name, but it's intuitively aircraft hardware. Also,
you might want to get a bolt gauge that will save you the measuring - also
from the tool guys. If I remember correctly, bolt lengths are in eighth
inches, and when you get past 7/8s, the second digit increases by one, and the
first digit starts over at 0. Therefor, a -15 is an inch, and 5/8s.
I think this is right. I recommend the book. Good luck.
Joel McLaughlin
-6 wings N.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Superior O-360? |
> I recall that, a couple of years ago, there was talk of Superior
> producing engine kits, which would have all the parts for, say, an
> O-360, but obviously wouldn't be certified (and would be assembled at
> home). Never heard any more about it, until yesterday, when I saw a
> post referring to an O-360 clone made with superior parts. Anyone know
> what's up with this?
Superior is coming out with engines. They have started up a company by the
name of XP. The engines will be available in kit form or assembled. Fuel
injection is an option. An assembled O-360 is suppose to run about $17,000.
Assesemble it yourself and save about $2000. The Engine is suppose to make
about 190 hp. They are not completly up and running yet as when I talked to
them the saleperson was working out of his home. I would give you his name
and number but i dont have it on hand. However they are sending me a brochure
on the engines and I will post all the material in it at that time. If you
need the number sooner you can check the archives as it was posted, or
perhaps someone else will post it again. Hope this helps.
Chris
Harmon Rocket Builder
RV 4 on steroids
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Mounting Dstances |
Some others have responded to this question already but there's one
point I'm not sure was made clear -- that is do NOT try to set up your
exhaust hangars until after the cowl is fitted!
I thought I could do so, I mean that cowl looked so big and the scoop so
roomy I figured I could just put the pipes where they looked about
right.... WRONG! Of course I got my exhaust system before Vetterman
started shipping his with the hangars so I had to fabricate an exhaust
hangar system twice :-(
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Gap b/t Rear Window Sides and Skin |
I have been fitting the tip-up canopy on my 6A using the notes provided by
Dave McManmon and Will Cretsinger
(which are great by the way) and felt I was
going along very well. I didn't push the sides in enough so I have a bit
of a gap in the front but I can live with that using sealer and the
fiberglass fairing.
I am concerned about a gap I have in the rear window. It fits flush with
the aft skin at the top and at the sides. In-between, (at the 8-10 o'clock
positions as you face the passenger side of the window)), there is a 12"
area (on both sides not just the passenger side) which has about a 1/2" gap
between the skin and window. I have already cut the canopy so I can't
shift front to back. I can push the window up to meet the skin. If I
drill this way, I think I will end up with small puckers between the screws
(I am not using pop rivets).
Any advise, comments or reassurances?
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
<19980826.201831.11206.0.wstucklen1(at)juno.com>
<35E61818.ED94DC71(at)bellatlantic.net>
>Is over-revving the engine by 8% or so 'hard' on it? Will
>it decrease TBO? By how much? I don't know the answer. I suspect
>most of the listers don't know either, but I still be interested
>in their opinions. I'll venture a guess that among experimental
>aircraft, there exists a body of evidence to suggest that
>over-reving a carefully-put-together Lycoming engine/wood prop
>will not result in a catastrophic failure within the first few
>hundred hours.
Lycoming makes a version of the [I think ] O-320 for use in helicopters
designated the HO-320 (it may be the HO-360). This engine has a red-line
of 2900 RPM. I sincerly doubt they are changing the crank, rods, pistons,
jugs, cam, or lifters for this operation. Based on this I have added the
high-compression (10:1) forged pistons from Lycon and arbitrarily set my
red-line to 2900 RPM. I am keeping my old wood prop and will see how it
behaves with the extra horsepower. I am hoping that it will let the engine
reach 2900 RPM at full throttle in level flight since with the stock
O-320-D2J it would just reach 2700 RPM at full throttle in level flight.
I will post my experience when I fly it, hopefully tomorrow. (I know, I
keep saying that but I discovered an interference problem between the
exhast and the cowl when I finally got it all buttoned up last night.)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
>All of these parking brake valves that I am aware of have a check valve in
>them so even if the valve is closed it will allow brake application. However
>that fluid is trapped, And so presto! Instant tire failure ;-)
>
>I would not install one that did not have a check valve in it.
Ah well, I am not up to trying to get a different parking brake valve
certified for my Comanche. It is just too much of a pain. I will just
settle for not being stupid.
BTW, along these lines we did try to get something certified for the
Comanche. Turns out that there is a version of the O-540 260hp that is
carburated instead of injected. It is an exact bolt-in fit for my 1960
Comanche and the factory-overhauled 260 was $1000 cheaper than the
factory-overhauled 250 hp it was going to replace replaced. The
engine/prop combo was even in the Comanche a couple of years later. A
no-brainer, right?
Well, the FAA told us we had to relicense the Comanche in the experimental
catagory, do a 50 hour fly-off, AND (this is the good part) do a formal
fly-over sequence to ensure that the aircraft now meets current EPA noise
footprint requirements! The fact that the airframe/engine/prop combo was
100% identical to a Comanche of a couple years later didn't faze 'em at
all. Fortunately Roy Lopresti came to our rescue with his
recently-acquired STC to do what we had done.
Boy, dealing with experimental/amateur-built is soooooo easy by comparison.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | charles(at)onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Parking Brake Questions |
The simple parking valve, may be installed directly below a single resivoir
and from the parking valve your lines go to the pressure cylinders attached
to your rudder pedals.
You then simply apply pressure to both wheel brakes and set the parking
valve, which closes the return supply of fluid to the cylinder.
This "locks" fluid pressure to the brake pucks and sets the brake.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
Well, the RV-4 is all done and ready to fly (I think). All the antennas
(transponder, comm, nav, and marker beacon) are all mounted on the belly.
The last item is the GPS antenna which needs to go on the top of the
airplane for obvious reasons.
The antenna is a MaCom "hocky puck" antenna. It has a flat bottom and uses
4x#6 screws for mounting. I figure I can mount it one of three places:
1. on the skin ahead of the canopy (really close to the radios);
2. on the top of the roll bar;
3. over the baggage compartment but still inside the canopy.
I have two questions:
1. Has anyone tried any of these locations, and, if so, how do they work,
relatively speaking?
2. If someone has mounted a hocky puck antenna over the baggage
compartment or ahead of the canopy, how have they dealt with a
flat-bottomed antenna being mounted to the curved skin? Machine an
adaptor? Bolt it down and let the chips fall where they may? (The latter
is the suggestion I got from someone at Oshkosh.)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Engine in RV6 |
The main source I know about is Belted Air Products. Don't know their URL, but
just put their name into your search engine and it will pop up. I have talked
with them at length, and they seem to know their stuff. Another source is
Northwest Aero Products.
Bill Thomas
-6A Fuselage out of jig
Student Pilot wrote:
>
> I seem to remember some guys who were doing auto engine firewall
> forward packages for the RV6. I cannot seem to find their website
> anymore, does anyone know the URL?
>
> thanks
>
> (replace SPAMnet with worldnet in email address to reply)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Barnard RV-6 Holy Cowl available again |
Listers:
Mr Sam James called me this morning, and said he had purchased the mold for
the Barnard IO-360 RV-6 cowl. Sam makes the plenum for this and other
applications, as well as wheel pants and root fairings.
Call Sam at 561-675-4493.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pilla, Michael" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
Thanks for the quick reply, Rob. I was going to fabricate something to hold
the 195, if I choose that one. Still leaning towards the SkymapII, though.
I would be happy to hear about your actual flying experiences with it.
Which dealer did you purchase your unit from, if you don't mind my asking?
Also, what accessories did you purchase at the same time? This is the last
piece of Avionics I need; have the Terra transponder and com, all my
instruments. Plumbing the engine, so decision time is getting very close.
Thanks, again.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Acker [SMTP:robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com]
Sent: Friday, August 28, 1998 11:48 AM
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Subject: RE: RV-List: Unscientific GPS Antenna Review
>I am seriously considering purchasing the SkymapII for my RV-4.
Why did you
>choose that unit over, say, a Garmin GPS-195?
>
>Also, did you panel mount (i.e., recess), or surface mount it?
>
>Michael Pilla
Mike,
The Garmin does not have a panel mount solution (short of
permanently mounting it in a non-standard vertical cutout). I wanted
something I could panel mount (via the Skyforce rack mount) and take home
with me for flight planning/other use. If I decide to
upgrade to the latest and greatest IFR GPS later, I have a standard
6.25" cutout ready for it.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LEIF STENER" <leif.stener(at)swipnet.se> |
Hi! I about to install the canopy frame when I discoverd that the left
rear tube
in the canopy frame is one inch longer than the right.
I have a nice curv on the right side but not on the left.
Do someone on the list have the same experience or have the measurment
for the length of the tubes between the weldments?
Leif Stener RV-6 finishkit in Sweden
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Barnard RV-6 Holy Cowl available again |
mark
io360 rv6 cowl ? i thought vans dosen't recommend a 200 hp motor on a rv6,
if so what type of beefing up do you do to compensate?
i would love to put a 200 hp on my 6a
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Corde" <Gary_Corde(at)ars.aon.com> |
| Subject: | Inline Fuel Filters |
Well here is the easy to install inline fuel filter we have been waiting
for, complete with AN fittings no less. Check out K&N's web page at:
http://www.knfilters.com/newprod.htm
They are compact and flow over 15GPM with a filtration of 10 micron. I'm
gonna order one for each of my tanks. I'll keep the gascolator as a water
trap.
Gary Corde
RV6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pilla, Michael" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
Sorry for the "list" post. I had intended for an off-line reply message and
for some reason, my mailer picked up the original rv-list address instead of
Rob's address. Should have checked the addressee list. A "senior moment",
I guess. :-)
Michael Pilla
-----Original Message-----
From: Pilla, Michael [SMTP:mpilla(at)mitre.org]
Sent: Friday, August 28, 1998 3:49 PM
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Subject: RE: RV-List: Unscientific GPS Antenna Review
Thanks for the quick reply, Rob. I was going to fabricate something
to hold
the 195, if I choose that one. Still leaning towards the SkymapII,
though.
I would be happy to hear about your actual flying experiences with
it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Unscientific GPS Antenna Review |
>
>Thanks for the quick reply, Rob. I was going to fabricate something to hold
>the 195, if I choose that one.
I was considering the 195 as well. It easily beats the Skymap in ground
mapping capability, but I found the Skymap far easier to read in sunlight (the
more
it gets, the higher the contrast becomes).
Since I intend to hook up the Navaid and fuel totalizer to the GPS, the
in panel mounting of the Skymap made more sense.
Check out http://ram-mount.com for a really neat mounting system if you
choose the 195.
>Which dealer did you purchase your unit from, if you don't mind my asking?
>Also, what accessories did you purchase at the same time?
Purchased mine from Eastern Avionics at OSH (they gave me the best qoutes).
The accessories I got with it were an Icom A-200 Comm (I wanted freq.
flip-flop and memory recall switches on top of the control stick) and a King
KT-76A Xpndr .
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
My gps antenna is under the canopy over
the baggage comp. Just bend up a hat section
and use the legs to mount the bracket to the
curved fuse surface.
RV4 Stew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Mounting Dstances |
>I thought I could do so, I mean that cowl looked so big and the scoop so
>roomy I figured I could just put the pipes where they looked about
>right.... WRONG! Of course I got my exhaust system before Vetterman
>started shipping his with the hangars so I had to fabricate an exhaust
>hangar system twice :-(
Tell me about it. I just found out last night that I did the same thing
but fortunately I could fix it by just making the cross bar shorter.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Van Artsdalen <scott_rv4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
It will have the best field of view mounted on top of the roll bar
I'd put in on top of the baggage compartment if I were to do it.
I'm going to be using a handheld unit and don't see a need to use an
external antenna. I'll be mounting the unit either higher up on panel
or on the glareshield. (It's a Garmin GPS III PIlot).
==
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 - Wings
"The essence of character is doing what's right
even when nobody's looking."
J.C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Moore <jjm6898(at)unix.tamu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
On Fri, 28 Aug 1998, Brian Lloyd wrote:
> >
> Lycoming makes a version of the [I think ] O-320 for use in helicopters
> designated the HO-320 (it may be the HO-360). This engine has a red-line
> of 2900 RPM. I sincerly doubt they are changing the crank, rods, pistons,
> jugs, cam, or lifters for this operation. Based on this I have added the
> high-compression (10:1) forged pistons from Lycon and arbitrarily set my
> red-line to 2900 RPM. I am keeping my old wood prop and will see how it
> behaves with the extra horsepower. I am hoping that it will let the engine
> reach 2900 RPM at full throttle in level flight since with the stock
> O-320-D2J it would just reach 2700 RPM at full throttle in level flight.
>
> I will post my experience when I fly it, hopefully tomorrow. (I know, I
> keep saying that but I discovered an interference problem between the
> exhast and the cowl when I finally got it all buttoned up last night.)
>
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
>
>
>
I hate to sound pessimistic, but torsional vibrations can come up and bite
you when ever you operate a factory engine out of its design envelope
(ie. different speed, prop, etc.). A helicoptor has much different inertia
properties than you wooden prop. Just be careful, or have a torsional
analysis performed and rest easy.
Jeff
jjmoore(at)tamu.edu
RV-6A (wishing and dreaming stage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Reece <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | RV's/Builders in Torrance, CA area |
I will be in Torrance, CA, on business from 30 Aug - 4 Sept, and would be
just happier that a pig in SH_T if I could meet some fellow RV's and see
some projects/flyables in the area.
I'm usually out once a month or so, so you might me find me kicking rocks
around at later dates? Just warning people ahead of time! :-)
Thanks for any replies(offlist)!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 (Spar mod on left wing about 1/2 done)
Socorro, NM
Rob Reece
Microcosm
c/o EMRTC
New Mexico Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
Phone: (505) 835-5716
Fax: (505) 835-5714/5680
Email: reece(at)rt66.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Barnard RV-6 Holy Cowl available again |
Scott,
First it's recommended that you "beef up" your bank account since the
IO-360-X#X is gonna cost you more. Then your gonna have to add to the fuel
fund cause your gonna use more, and last but not least you gotta do
something to strengthen the relationship with your wife cause if she finds
out what you did it's definitely going to strain your relationship! AL
(Just bought the 200HP IO-360-C1C for the 6)
>
>mark
>io360 rv6 cowl ? i thought vans dosen't recommend a 200 hp motor on a rv6,
>if so what type of beefing up do you do to compensate?
>i would love to put a 200 hp on my 6a
>scott
>winging it in tampa
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust System Mounting Distances |
Randall,
Does this mean I'm going to have a hard time retrofitting it to my
already finished RV????
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall Henderson [SMTP:randall(at)edt.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 28, 1998 1:23 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust System Mounting Dstances
>
>
> Some others have responded to this question already but there's one
> point I'm not sure was made clear -- that is do NOT try to set up your
> exhaust hangars until after the cowl is fitted!
>
> I thought I could do so, I mean that cowl looked so big and the scoop
> so
> roomy I figured I could just put the pipes where they looked about
> right.... WRONG! Of course I got my exhaust system before Vetterman
> started shipping his with the hangars so I had to fabricate an exhaust
> hangar system twice :-(
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
> randall(at)edt.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
> Yes this does concern me. I don't necessarily want to build a new rudder
> anytime soon. I didn't feel any alarming bangs and jars being
> transmitted back through the system.....
Terry,
You can construct you tailwheel pushrod with two different
diameter steel tubes, the larger of the tubes containing two
compression springs. One spring will compress with right
rudder deflection the other with left. These type pushrods are
being used on some of the Tailwinds. I'm sorry I don't recall
who to credit for the original design. I hope you can grasp
the concept from my poor description. It does require some
wielding in order to capture the springs. I have flown an
example of it. Works good and should help out with damage
control. BTW the Tailwind was holding up fine with the solid
rod, but remember it is steel tube rudder construction.
Mike Mckenna (mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net)
RV-8 Flaps
Lawrenceville, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Storage |
I seem to recall that a beautiful yellow (with purple trim I think) RV4 at
1997 OSHKOSH had such. The builder was a "two award, two materials" winner
in that his RV4 won something like "best metal" and the Glasair III that won
something like "best composite" was done (at least in part) by him.
I do not remember his name or N-numbers but I review of past winners should
turn him up.
The workmanship of course was EXCELLENT.
James
RV6A-QB ... rudder pedals
-----Original Message-----
From: Anderson, John <john.anderson(at)spcf.siemens.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 8:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Storage
>
>I've got a RV-4 that I sometimes have a problem with fitting all the
"goods"
>in the storage area when my wife and I go on cross country trips. Has
>anyone installed the wing tip storage area on their aircraft? What are the
>pros and cons of doing this? It seems rather simple to do. Does anyone
>know the maximum weight that the wing tip can hold? I have heard it's
>around 10 lbs. Thanks.
>
>John C. Anderson
>Siemens Power Corporation
>1040 S. 70th Street
>Milwaukee, WI 53214
>(414) 475-4201
>(414) 475-4461 - fax
>E-mail: john.anderson(at)spcf.siemens.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> 1. on the skin ahead of the canopy (really close to the radios);
>
> 2. If someone has mounted a hocky puck antenna over the baggage
> compartment or ahead of the canopy, how have they dealt with a
> flat-bottomed antenna being mounted to the curved skin? Machine an
> adaptor? Bolt it down and let the chips fall where they may? (The latter
> is the suggestion I got from someone at Oshkosh.)
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
Short leads make for good electronics. If you decide to mount the Hockey Puck to
the rounded surface of the cowl, consider this.
Cut the shape of the antenna out on a piece of Saran Wrap or wax paper. Tape this
to the cowl with cut-out positioned where you want the antenna to mount. Wrap the
antenna in another piece of Saran Wrap tightly. Make two curved forms from small
pieces of wood or plastic or metal or whatever relatively stiff material you have
laying around. Make two more forms the length of your hockey puck. Put the four
pieces together around the hole in the Saran Wrap and clamp to the cowl. You now
have a form. Place enough Bondo in the form to fill with no voids. Place the
antenna in place. Check for voids. Add bondo as necessary. When satified let the
bondo harden to a sandable conditon then remove antenna and the Saran Wrap. TA
DA
no cleanup. Mix up a snall amount of bondo to fill voids, there will be some. Sand
and Paint. The base of the antenna will look like it was part of the plane. If
you
want to go a little high tech, substitute semi-flexible epoxy for the bondo and
there will be less chance of your cracking your bondo when you flex your cowl.
Although you probably will be fine as long as the antenna is attached.
Good Luck:
Joe Walker
Rebuilding Wreaked RV6
Houston, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
<v01540b00b209fd5ef55c@[209.86.29.247]>
<19980826.201831.11206.0.wstucklen1(at)juno.com>
<35E61818.ED94DC71(at)bellatlantic.net>
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
>
>>Is over-revving the engine by 8% or so 'hard' on it? Will
>>it decrease TBO? By how much? I don't know the answer. I suspect
>>most of the listers don't know either, but I still be interested
>>in their opinions. I'll venture a guess that among experimental
>>aircraft, there exists a body of evidence to suggest that
>>over-reving a carefully-put-together Lycoming engine/wood prop
>>will not result in a catastrophic failure within the first few
>>hundred hours.
>
>Lycoming makes a version of the [I think ] O-320 for use in helicopters
>designated the HO-320 (it may be the HO-360). This engine has a red-line
>of 2900 RPM. I sincerly doubt they are changing the crank, rods, pistons,
>jugs, cam, or lifters for this operation. Based on this I have added the
>high-compression (10:1) forged pistons from Lycon and arbitrarily set my
>red-line to 2900 RPM. I am keeping my old wood prop and will see how it
>behaves with the extra horsepower. I am hoping that it will let the engine
>reach 2900 RPM at full throttle in level flight since with the stock
>O-320-D2J it would just reach 2700 RPM at full throttle in level flight.
>
>I will post my experience when I fly it, hopefully tomorrow. (I know, I
>keep saying that but I discovered an interference problem between the
>exhast and the cowl when I finally got it all buttoned up last night.)
>
>
>Brian Lloyd
Brian,
I would not just assume that just because the helicopter engine can
be spun to 2900 rpm that you can safely do the same with your engine.
Tom Martin had a valve failure while over reving his O-360 back in
March. He since found out that the helicopter 360s have a different
cam that allows the higher rpm (search the archives for "valve
failure".
Good luck on the first flight,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Engine in RV6 |
Check out the link to Belted Air Power on my website. They make firewall
forward packages for RV-6's and reduction units for chevy engines.
Bill Pagan
80555-wing skins
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
>I seem to remember some guys who were doing auto engine firewall
>forward packages for the RV6. I cannot seem to find their website
>anymore, does anyone know the URL?
>
>thanks
>
>
>
>(replace SPAMnet with worldnet in email address to reply)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Huntington Lift Reserve Indicator |
Has anyone on the list installed or used the LRI device? I am interested in
any difficulties in calibrating it, and other info that may help me. The
archives have no info. Thanks in advance for any help. RV-6A Flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List spark plugs |
<< Does anyone know the best spark plug to run a 0-360? >>
My O-360 (new) seems to do well now (required regular cleaning for the first
25 hrs or so) with the REM38E plugs that came in it. REM40E are the hotter
grade plug and some find these necessary. For lead fouling problems the
REM37BY was created. This is more than I really know about this subject, so
please don't call me an a**hole, Ed ;^).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Brian,
Why not mount it in the engine compartment (no kidding) . Attach it to a
plate clamped to the top of the engine mount. The fiberglass cowling is
invisable to the frequencies that the GPS uses. I have been using my
Lowrance with the antenna there for over a year now with good results.
This probably wouldn't work if the cowling was painted with metalic
paint.
Regards, Bill, RV4, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conical engine mounts |
Wag-Aero ? (414-763-9586, 1-800-558-6868)
Chuck Brietigam wrote:
> For some reason, I am having a hard time trying to locate the part number and
a
> product source for conical engine mounts. These are the straight mounts for an
> acrobatic IO-360 engine (hard rubber biscuits). The good people at the Lord
> Corporation seem to want to build me a new "wheel". I'm just looking for an "off
> the shelf" hard rubber mount. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inline Fuel Filters |
<< They (K&N inline filters) are compact and flow over 15GPM with a filtration
of 10 micron. I'm
gonna order one for each of my tanks. I'll keep the gascolator as a water
trap. >>
Gary-
According to the ever great Tony Bingelis (ref FWF pgs 170 and 171), fuel
filter media should gradually go from coarse to fine on its way from the tank
to the carburetor/injector.
8 to 16 meshes per inch screen on the fuel pickups
60 meshes per inch for the gascolator screen
200 meshes per inch at the carb/inj inlet
I don't know where you are going to put these, but you might want to consider
this strategy to avoid clogging a too fine filter, too far upstream.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust System Mounting Distances |
>
>Randall,
>
> Does this mean I'm going to have a hard time retrofitting it to my
>already finished RV????
This is what I did. I bought the 4-pipe exhaust system about 2 years ago
and had to fabricate my own hangars. It wasn't hard; just tedious. The
recommendations that came with the exhaust were fine. I just didn't verify
that the pairs of pipes were centered in the hollows of the cowl for the
exhaust egress and had to fix it last night.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust System Mounting Distances |
Fred Stucklen said:
> Does this mean I'm going to have a hard time retrofitting it to my
> already finished RV????
No I wouldn't think so at all. But if you already finished your RV
you probably know that the pipes, especially if you have a heat muff,
have to be hung "just so" to both clear the bottom of the firewall and
the scoop. The retro- with Vetterman's new hangar system should be a
snap, and in fact with his system there is enough flexibility that the
problems I had are less likely to occur. Still if I were doing
it over I'd wait till the cowl was fitted to install the hangar (not
an issue in your case).
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
<3.0.5.32.19980828112038.0098ba70(at)158.222.8.12>
>
>Brian,
>
>
>Why not mount it in the engine compartment (no kidding) .
I would never have thought of this but it should work just peachy! It
keeps the hocky puck out of the slipstream (thus saving 5-10 kts) and I can
use one of those extra holes in my firewall that were the result of getting
rid of some plumbing during the rebuild.
I love this mailing list! Not only you do you put up with me when I
expound at length but when I ask a question I get several great answers.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
BSivori(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Blake @ All
>
> I juts had an LIO360 C1E6 Overhauled for my Seneca, I have about 500 hours
> left on my left engine IO360 C1E6 - my thinking was to startr shopping for a
> Case, Cam & Crank, now - re-build the motor & install it on the Seneca, the
> take the existing
> IO360 C1E6 and rebuild it for the RV6.
>
> The question is will a C1E6 work on the RV ?
>
> BSivori @AOL.Com
> Wings Closed
> N929RV ( Reserved )
>
I know of one installation of a LIO-360 C1E6 in an RV4 located at Gnoss
Field
in Northern CA.
Contact me off list for details.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse Skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Superior O-360? |
In a message dated 8/28/98 10:52:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time, CW9371(at)aol.com
writes:
<< However they are sending me a brochure >>
Chris and other listers
I recall hearing something about the XP engines having some modifications to
them on items that Lycoming will not address on their certified engines. Does
anyone have any particulars?
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN BOLT SIZES |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Dear listers,
> about to install all those angles to the main spar, the bag of bolts (
> bunches of different sizes ) my question, where can i find a chart so i can
> find the correct size bolt for the right station, i'm not familiar with -15
> -8 etc. i know their all the same diameter, but i can't translate the
> lenght, also there are 2 bolts with holes drilled in the ends, i don,t want
> to put those in the wrong place, any help
> scott
> winging it in tampa
>
An easy way is to get an AN Bolt Gauge from Avery's p/n 1350 $12.00
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: AN BOLT SIZES |
>
>Dear listers,
>about to install all those angles to the main spar, the bag of bolts (
>bunches of different sizes ) my question, where can i find a chart so i can
>find the correct size bolt for the right station, i'm not familiar with -15
>-8 etc. i know their all the same diameter, but i can't translate the
>lenght, also there are 2 bolts with holes drilled in the ends, i don,t want
>to put those in the wrong place, any help
>scott
>winging it in tampa
>
Good,
Something I can answer. An AN3-4 is a bolt that is 3/16" in diameter
and 4/16" from the face of the head to the end of the bolt. There is
no AN3-8 bolt since that would be one inch long and then it is called
an AN3-10 or 1" plus 0/16". An AN5-23 bolt would be a bolt that is
5/16" in diameter and 2 3/16" long.
Real simple once it's explained.
John Ammeter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
>
> Well, the RV-4 is all done and ready to fly (I think). All the antennas
> (transponder, comm, nav, and marker beacon) are all mounted on the belly.
> The last item is the GPS antenna which needs to go on the top of the
> airplane for obvious reasons.
>
> The antenna is a MaCom "hocky puck" antenna. It has a flat bottom and uses
> 4x#6 screws for mounting. I figure I can mount it one of three places:
>
> 1. on the skin ahead of the canopy (really close to the radios);
>
> 2. on the top of the roll bar;
>
> 3. over the baggage compartment but still inside the canopy.
>
> I have two questions:
>
> 1. Has anyone tried any of these locations, and, if so, how do they work,
> relatively speaking?
>
> 2. If someone has mounted a hocky puck antenna over the baggage
> compartment or ahead of the canopy, how have they dealt with a
> flat-bottomed antenna being mounted to the curved skin? Machine an
> adaptor? Bolt it down and let the chips fall where they may? (The latter
> is the suggestion I got from someone at Oshkosh.)
>
> Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
> brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
> http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
Brian,
Jerry Blazek at Ried Hillview , San Jose has an RV4 with the antenna
mounted on top of the roll
bar and has had no problems with the installation.
If you need more info, let me know.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse Skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
->Lycoming makes a version of the [I think ] O-320 for use in helicopters
>designated the HO-320 (it may be the HO-360). This engine has a red-line
>of 2900 RPM. I sincerly doubt they are changing the crank, rods, pistons,
>jugs, cam, or lifters for this operation. Based on this I have added the
>high-compression (10:1) forged pistons from Lycon and arbitrarily set my
>red-line to 2900 RPM.
Yes they do make special cams, lifters, and valves for these engines. I
think also some other parts. BTW check the Lyc SL that list the overspeed
limits. There was someone else on the list a while back who decided to run
an 0-320 at 2900 and paid the price with an engine failure in short order.
Check the archives. Of course if you are a lucky pilot ,it's only money.
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Storage |
There is a picture of this plane on my web page in my Oshkosh section.
The builder's name is Ross Briglieb. I have pictures of the Glasair as
well, I got to fly it last year in Reno.
I met him through a mutual friend. This guy really knows his stuff.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
James E. Clark wrote:
>
>
> I seem to recall that a beautiful yellow (with purple trim I think) RV4 at
> 1997 OSHKOSH had such. The builder was a "two award, two materials" winner
> in that his RV4 won something like "best metal" and the Glasair III that won
> something like "best composite" was done (at least in part) by him.
>
> I do not remember his name or N-numbers but I review of past winners should
> turn him up.
>
> The workmanship of course was EXCELLENT.
>
> James
> RV6A-QB ... rudder pedals
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inline Fuel Filters |
<< I don't know where you are going to put these, but you might want to
consider
this strategy to avoid clogging a too fine filter, too far upstream. >>
Not a bad thought. Maybe I'll just install one filter between the engine
driven fuel pump and the carb.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Barnard RV-6 Holy Cowl available again |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>
> Scott,
> First it's recommended that you "beef up" your bank account since the
> IO-360-X#X is gonna cost you more. Then your gonna have to add to the fuel
> fund cause your gonna use more, and last but not least you gotta do
> something to strengthen the relationship with your wife cause if she finds
> out what you did it's definitely going to strain your relationship! AL
> (Just bought the 200HP IO-360-C1C for the 6)
>
> >
> >mark
> >io360 rv6 cowl ? i thought vans dosen't recommend a 200 hp motor on a rv6,
> >if so what type of beefing up do you do to compensate?
> >i would love to put a 200 hp on my 6a
> >scott
> >winging it in tampa
> >
Check out Barnard's web site. His stated fuel burns are not bad for an
IO-360.
Ed (mouth washed out with soap) Cole
RV6A IO-360 with Barnard's Howl Cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List spark plugs |
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << Does anyone know the best spark plug to run a 0-360? >>
>
> My O-360 (new) seems to do well now (required regular cleaning for the first
> 25 hrs or so) with the REM38E plugs that came in it. REM40E are the hotter
> grade plug and some find these necessary. For lead fouling problems the
> REM37BY was created. This is more than I really know about this subject, so
> please don't call me an a**hole, Ed ;^).
>
> -GV
>
Only behind your back Gary ;^)
ED
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy frame |
| From: | cecilth(at)Juno.com (cecil t hatfield) |
Hi Leif,
I received my finish kit Aug 5th and have just finished my sliding
canope. My frame was to long on the left rear also.
I took out three quarters of an inch to make it fit. However I found that
I over did it by a quarter inch. Instead of adding it back in, I shimed
it. I now have a very nice fit. As we say here. "Duck Soup" Now on to the
insturments.
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks, California
writes:
>
>Hi! I about to install the canopy frame when I discoverd that the
>left
>rear tube
> in the canopy frame is one inch longer than the right.
>I have a nice curv on the right side but not on the left.
>Do someone on the list have the same experience or have the
>measurment
>for the length of the tubes between the weldments?
>
>Leif Stener RV-6 finishkit in Sweden
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES |
| From: | rvsixer(at)Juno.com (michael d hilger) |
>TBO Advisor even stated that "the only time we would use the multi-vis
>oil is
>if we were traveling from Acapulco to Anchorage in February".
>
>-GV
Unfortunately, I am in a flying club (one must fly somehow!)
while building the RV. We
have three PA-28's, 160, 180 and 235 HP. During the last 15,000 hours or
so we have never had to open up an engine before TBO and when overhauled,
the parts were in fine shape. We have been using Phillips 20W50 the whole
time. When you consider the wide range of people that fly a club plane,
that's not too bad. TBO Adviser can print whatever they want, but you
can't beat real world experience...
Mike Hilger
RV-6 builder and PA-28 grocery cart pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior O-360? |
---JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 8/28/98 10:52:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
CW9371(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> << However they are sending me a brochure >>
> Chris and other listers
> I recall hearing something about the XP engines having some
modifications to
> them on items that Lycoming will not address on their certified
engines. Does
> anyone have any particulars?
> Jim Nice
> RV6A
> WA State
I talked to them at AirVenture 98 (Oshkosh to us oldtimers). The
engine they had on display was the only one they have. It had some
Lycoming parts as theirs sump and case were not ready yet. Told me it
was Experimental and would sell for about $20K US if you put it
together. It uses Superior Cylinders. It does have 9.0:1 compression
pistons and is rated at 190 HP. The stock Lycoming is 8.5:1 and is
180 HP. I told them that I can buy a NEW certified 180 HP from Van's
for under $20K US and would not spend the that much money for a
non-certifed engine. I suggested to the rep that they need to drop
the price to below $12K US if they wanted to put any in RVs.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Chain Attachment |
Ya, I know. Had a guy in our Chapter with a T-18. Everything he did to it
gained him three to five knots. He could put a different prop on and gain
five knots. He'd change back to the original and get two more.
Tom De Winter
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
<< > << Gained 5-10 knots because of the cleaner installation ; ) >>
>
> I'm amazed at this gain in speed. How did you verify this?
>
> Tom De Winter
>
I think he is pulling your chain. LOL >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Wing root fairings |
Lister
I have Sam James wing root fairings, But I'm not sure how they
are ment to be attached to the wing/fuselage. Can someone share
with me how they attached thiers?
Craig Hiers
alized that I forgot the RTV.
[snap]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Barnard RV-6 Holy Cowl available again |
> Then your gonna have to add to the fuel
> > fund cause your gonna use more
Inregard to the fuel burn, I still wouldn't complain in the cardinal I fly
sometimes, it has none of the performance of the RV and it burns 14 gph at
cruise which is more than the 200 hp engine will burn in the RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
The top part is in two pieces, separates by the flap.
I pernanently attached the rear section to the fuse
after fitting and filling for the finish.. the forward long
section is attached to the fuse with nutplates, c/s washers and
screws. I used a few clip nuts on the bottom section to attach
it to the fuel tank part. I used no attachment to the top of the wing.
RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Acker" <roba(at)globalink.net> |
Someone asked about the LRI earlier:
I met these folks at Osh. Seemed nice enough, but when pressed on how to
explain its operation all they said was there's a seaplane on the field
here, he say's it works real good.
I am all for some type of AOA/reserve lift device. So, still interested I
sent them e-mail asking for some basic information:
1) Any documentation they had beyond what was on the web site (i.e. article
reprints, technical analysis, brochures, etc.).
2) An inflight videos showing the device at work.
3) References of satisfied users.
4) Possibility of a demo flight since they are somewhat local to me.
What I got back was (not exact quotes mind 'ya):
1) Nope, we haven't kept any of this info, but we will try to dig some up.
But, we have a feeling that even with this info, you would not be convinced
and buy one like you should, because it plain works like we say it does.
That should be good enough.
2) Nope, we tried taping one, didn't show anything. If that's not good
enough for you, would you mind coming here and taping a professional
version that might satisfy you?
3) One partner in the outfit said NO WAY, the other said sure and gave me
some (two partners giving completely different answers)
4) No reply.
The device may indeed be good, but the people behind it are not. I chose
to stay away from LRI, but am intrigued enough that I may start
experimenting with a like device on my own.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I've never heard of this. Is it in the plans?
>
> -Larry
> RV-8 VS
> Email: larry(at)bowen.com
> Web: http://larry.bowen.com
Larry,
If I remember correctly, there was about one sentence that talked about
it in the manual in the rudder section.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wings
> [snip]
> >Recently I got my rudder all closed up, stood back to admire it... and
> >realized that I forgot the RTV.
> [snap]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Questions |
charles young wrote: You then simply apply pressure to both wheel brakes
and set the parking
> valve, which closes the return supply of fluid to the cylinder.
>
> This "locks" fluid pressure to the brake pucks and sets the brake.
>
Be careful how long you leave the parking brake on for. Setting the
brake after flying in colder air,then leaving it at 100+ temp on the
ramp, can cause the brake fluid to expand and force fluid past the 'O'
ring at the wheel cylinder,presto..no brakes when you take off again due
to brake linings saturated with brake fluid.
D.Reed RV6A Fus. OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN BOLT SIZES |
John Ammeter wrote:
> Good,
>
> Something I can answer. An AN3-4 is a bolt that is 3/16" in diameter
> and 4/16" from the face of the head to the end of the bolt. There is
> no AN3-8 bolt since that would be one inch long and then it is called
> an AN3-10 or 1" plus 0/16". An AN5-23 bolt would be a bolt that is
> 5/16" in diameter and 2 3/16" long.
>
I disagree, An AN3-4 is a bolt that is 3/16" in diameter and 4/8" from
the face of the head to the end of the bolt. Diameter is in 16ths while
length is in 8ths
Gary Zilik
Pine Junction, Colorado (Elev 8480')
RV-6A s/n 22993 Got the Tail Feathers wiggling today....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AN BOLT SIZES |
> There is
>no AN3-8 bolt since that would be one inch long and then it is called
>an AN3-10 or 1" plus 0/16".
John, I'm confused. If the scale is sixteenths, then wouldn't the -8 bolt be
1/2 inch long. Did you possibily misstate the scale?
Joel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Rob Acker wrote:
>
>
> Someone asked about the LRI earlier:
>
> I met these folks at Osh. Seemed nice enough, but when pressed on how to
> explain its operation all they said was there's a seaplane on the field
> here, he say's it works real good.
>
> I am all for some type of AOA/reserve lift device. So, still interested I
> sent them e-mail asking for some basic information:
>
> 1) Any documentation they had beyond what was on the web site (i.e. article
> reprints, technical analysis, brochures, etc.).
> 2) An inflight videos showing the device at work.
> 3) References of satisfied users.
> 4) Possibility of a demo flight since they are somewhat local to me.
>
> What I got back was (not exact quotes mind 'ya):
> 1) Nope, we haven't kept any of this info, but we will try to dig some up.
> But, we have a feeling that even with this info, you would not be convinced
> and buy one like you should, because it plain works like we say it does.
> That should be good enough.
> 2) Nope, we tried taping one, didn't show anything. If that's not good
> enough for you, would you mind coming here and taping a professional
> version that might satisfy you?
> 3) One partner in the outfit said NO WAY, the other said sure and gave me
> some (two partners giving completely different answers)
> 4) No reply.
>
> The device may indeed be good, but the people behind it are not. I chose
> to stay away from LRI, but am intrigued enough that I may start
> experimenting with a like device on my own.
>
> Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
Rob,
I believe the originator of the device was Huntington, who died and left
the
device to his grandson. I work with a engineer who claims to know the
grandson.
Contact me off list for details.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Type S Cowl |
| From: | daviddla(at)Juno.com (Blah ba Blah) |
Hi, I am getting all the fuselage bulkheads ready and I don't find
mention of when to put the bend in the firewall or any measurements for
same. I am working on a RV-6A. If I look long enough I will probably find
the answers, but I would like to hear other builders comments. Thanks,
David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Fuselage Jig for Rent |
I have just removed the fuselage from the jig and it is available for rent.
It has built three airplanes that I know of and I found only a little
shimming necessary for "string" line straightness. It is all steel with
some wooden cross members for longeron clamping. The jig is located in
Lodi, Ca., between Stockton and Sacramento. The builder who originally had
it built asks only $50 for rent and you can keep it as long as needed. When
you are done, on it goes to the next builder who sends him the rent. All on
the honor system. Please reply off list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES |
<< We have been using Phillips 20W50 the whole
time. When you consider the wide range of people that fly a club plane,
that's not too bad. TBO Adviser can print whatever they want, but you
can't beat real world experience. >>
Actually, they also said that of all the multi-vis oils, the Phillips 20W50
was far and away, superior to AeroShell and also didn't contain the Lyc
additive (TPP) that has come under scrutiny for pulling copper flakes out of
bearings. So all in all, not too bad a deal.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inline Fuel Filters |
<< Well here is the easy to install inline fuel filter we have been waiting
for, complete with AN fittings no less. Check out K&N's web page at:
http://www.knfilters.com/newprod.htm
They are compact and flow over 15GPM with a filtration of 10 micron. I'm
gonna order one for each of my tanks. I'll keep the gascolator as a water
trap.
Gary Corde
RV6 N211GC - NJ
>>
Gary:
The Airflow folks say this is too fine for our a/c applications. Don gets on
me once every so often about my $3 paper filters (one on each tank, Wix
#33033). I think you're better off with two filters, in case one gets
constipated.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
>3. over the baggage compartment but still inside the canopy.
>
>I have two questions:
>
>1. Has anyone tried any of these locations, and, if so, how do they work,
>relatively speaking?
>
>2. If someone has mounted a hocky puck antenna over the baggage
>compartment or ahead of the canopy, how have they dealt with a
>flat-bottomed antenna being mounted to the curved skin? Machine an
>adaptor? Bolt it down and let the chips fall where they may? (The latter
>is the suggestion I got from someone at Oshkosh.)
>
I used the over the baggage compartment placement. It worked very well on my
RV4. To tackle the curved skin issue I just tightened it lighty down with a
bead of silicone underneath.
Tom martin
HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
>
>Bottom line: this is an experimental aircraft and I intend to experiment. :^)
Well I experimented with higher rpms in my RV4, 2900, and ended up in a
soybean field and $8000 dollars poorer!
These engines will break above their rated rpms, get a different prop.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parr <rrparr(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
>
>
>
>>3. over the baggage compartment but still inside the canopy.
>>
>>I have two questions:
>>
>>1. Has anyone tried any of these locations, and, if so, how do they work,
>>relatively speaking?
>>
>>2. If someone has mounted a hocky puck antenna over the baggage
>>compartment or ahead of the canopy, how have they dealt with a
>>flat-bottomed antenna being mounted to the curved skin? Machine an
>>adaptor? Bolt it down and let the chips fall where they may? (The latter
>>is the suggestion I got from someone at Oshkosh.)
>>
>I used the over the baggage compartment placement. It worked very well on my
>RV4. To tackle the curved skin issue I just tightened it lighty down with a
>bead of silicone underneath.
>
>Tom martin
>HR2
>
>Tom, my GPS antenna is mounted over the baggage compartment inside the
canopy. A 1/2 inch thick piece of pvc pipe was filed flat for the antenna
to mount to and curved on the bottom to match the curve of the turtledeck
skin. You need a scrap of 6" white PVC pipe to cut this mount plate out of.
Works great and looks good and everything stays dry.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DENNIS HART <dennishart(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | looking for used tools |
Listers-
Wanted to thank all for the words of encouragement regarding building
before having pilot license. It was the final little push I needed. I am
setting up the garage and plan on ordering tail next week.
I was wondering if there was any sort of used tool market among the
listers?
Who needs 500 clecos after the plane is built,etc.I figure the more I can
save the sooner I will fly.
Any responses off list @ dennishart(at)mindspring.com please.
Dennis-getting spooled up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hughes" <okeanos(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Primer: Sherwin Williams THE LAST WORD |
Hello Listers
After reading the archives and finding that the primer thread contained some
factual information and many conclusions that may or may not be factual I
made several phone calls to Sherwin Williams and finally talked to someone
in their home office automotive products division.
Heres what I found:
Their E2-G973 Corrosion Shield Vinyl Etch Primer (transparent olive green)
and their E2-980
olive drab Etching Filler are substantially the same except for the
smoothing filling qualities of the filler (E2-G980).
Both are meant to be used over bare metal and DO NOT provide a moisture
barrier.
Both are self etching primers. The 988 spray primer aerosol (also sold at
napa under their brand name) is also basically the same. No moisture
barrier.
Their recommendation:
Use the corrosion shield (E2-G973) on the bare metal. It is very light and
is designed to prevent corrosion migration under their primer sealer. In
fact it provides protection with a very light transparent coating. Next top
coat with Prime-Shield PSE-4600 Neutral Gray EPOXY Primer Sealer. Sounds
similar to what Cessna does Doesnt it?
This combination should provide maximum corrosion resistance for the long
haul.
SW does not recommend etch prior to use of the self etching primers.
The corrosion shield is very fast drying and can be recoated in 15 minutes.
It must be recoated within 4 hours or another coat of corrosion shield must
be applied.
For the exterior of your aircraft and where wear will occur they reccommend
Acrylic Urethane
or Polyurethane Enamel Their brandnames are Sunfire and (acrylic urethane)
Acyrylid Plus
(polyurethane enamel)
Ok folks thats it!! Flame if You wish.
Have fun!!!!!
Steve Hughes
okeanos(at)msn.com
RV6A
Building the tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip A Lehrke" <plehrke(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Attachment to VS Hardware |
I am trying to find the callout in the manual or on a drawing that shows
what hardware (nut, bolt, and washers) are used to attach the rudder rod end
bearings to the vertical stabilizer VS-410/411/412. DWG 5PP shows a detail
of the how it is done for the horizontal stabilizer and elevator but no
where can I find a similar detail for the rudder attachment.
Phil Lehrke
RV-6A
Attaching Empenage to Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | S-type cowl and O-320 FAB |
Listers,
I've fitted the VA-130C plate to the carb, fitted the filter and mounted it
to the VA-130C, and now am ready to start playing with the VA-130B
and VA-130A tunnel parts. I have yet to fit the scoop to the cowl.
I guess these questions go out to the S-type cowl users since the cowl
is marked for the scoop. The instructions are sort of sketchy, at best.
1. In my initial look, I may have to do some trimming at the front of the
VA-130B to allow the scoop to fit in place. Did you?
2. Did the scoop fit inside the outlines without adjusting back and forth
to meet the VA-130B?
3. I've noticed I've got the do some trimming on the VA-130B to allow
for the carb sump. Did you?
4. The instructions say to put the VA-130B on the VA-130C to do the
horizontal swings for the scoop line up. I found that it didn't make
sense to do this without having the filter in place so I can see how it all
fits as I do the fitting to the scoop. To me, the filter must sit inside the
hole in the VA-130B, since it's been cut out for it. If I can't have it
place while I do the fitting, the filter may not rest in place within the
VA-130B and could cause air leaks. Did you do it this way to make
sure the filter fits the hole during the fit up?
Any help is appreciated. I found more instructions for the old cowls up
front than for the newer ones. Somewhere along the way, some things
appear to have been left out for those cowls after 1991. Maybe it just
August 25, 1998 - August 29, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fh