RV-Archive.digest.vol-fi
August 29, 1998 - September 04, 1998
seems that way to me. The sequence was a bit confusing at the front
of the instructions due to the old cowl instructions.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for used tools |
DENNIS HART wrote:
>
>
> Listers-
>
> Wanted to thank all for the words of encouragement regarding building
> before having pilot license. It was the final little push I needed. I am
> setting up the garage and plan on ordering tail next week.
>
> I was wondering if there was any sort of used tool market among the
> listers?
> Who needs 500 clecos after the plane is built,etc.I figure the more I can
> save the sooner I will fly.
> Any responses off list @ dennishart(at)mindspring.com please.
>
> Dennis-getting spooled up
Dennis,
Don't be surprised if you end up spending $1500-$2000 on tools over the
life of your project.
There are a lot of specialty items you'll need. All of us builders think
we are going to build
"another one" someday and it's hard to part with tools once you've
bought them. There is a little of
Tim Allan in all of us!
Ed Cole
RV6A fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
>
>The question is will a C1E6 work on the RV ?
>
>
>BSivori @AOL.Com
>Wings Closed
>N929RV ( Reserved )
I believe the "C" series engines have rear mounted injector bodies. This
presents some problems - I think people have been converting them to the
front"A" or "B" series setup. It is counterwieghted which some folks think
is an advantage.
Shelby in Nasvhille.
IO-360 A1B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | S-type cowl and O-320 FAB |
Listers,
I've fitted the VA-130C plate to the carb, fitted the filter and mounted
it to the VA-130C, and now am ready to start playing with the
VA-130B and VA-130A tunnel parts. I have yet to fit the scoop to the
cowl. I guess these questions go out to the S-type cowl users since
the cowl is marked for the scoop. The instructions are sort of
sketchy, at best.
1. In my initial look, I may have to do some trimming at the front of
the VA-130B to allow the scoop to fit in place. Did you?
2. Did the scoop fit inside the outlines without adjusting back and
forth to meet the VA-130B?
3. I've noticed I've got the do some trimming on the VA-130B to
allow for the carb sump. Did you?
4. The instructions say to put the VA-130B on the VA-130C to do the
horizontal swings for the scoop line up. I found that it didn't make
sense to do this without having the filter in place so I can see how it
all fits as I do the fitting to the scoop. To me, the filter must sit inside
the hole in the VA-130B, since it's been cut out for it. If I can't have
it place while I do the fitting, the filter may not rest in place within the
VA-130B and could cause air leaks. Did you do it this way to make
sure the filter fits the hole during the fit up?
Any help is appreciated. I found more instructions for the old cowls
up front than for the newer ones. Somewhere along the way, some
things appear to have been left out for those cowls after 1991.
Maybe it just seems that way to me. The sequence was a bit
confusing at the front of the instructions due to the old cowl
instructions.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
Shelby Smith wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> >The question is will a C1E6 work on the RV ?
> >
> >
> >BSivori @AOL.Com
> >Wings Closed
> >N929RV ( Reserved )
>
> I believe the "C" series engines have rear mounted injector bodies. This
> presents some problems - I think people have been converting them to the
> front"A" or "B" series setup. It is counterwieghted which some folks think
> is an advantage.
>
> Shelby in Nasvhille.
> IO-360 A1B
>
The "C" series engines can be converted by machining the pad on the
front of the sump
to accept the injector body or repalcing the sump with an A1A type sump.
Check the last RVator for Dave Barnharts conversion(although his was an
IO320)
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: AN BOLT SIZES_CORRECTION!! |
>
>> There is
>>no AN3-8 bolt since that would be one inch long and then it is called
>>an AN3-10 or 1" plus 0/16".
>
>John, I'm confused. If the scale is sixteenths, then wouldn't the -8 bolt be
>1/2 inch long. Did you possibily misstate the scale?
>
>Joel
>
Damn,
I looked at that email twice so I'd get it right and still messed up.
You're right, first number is ?/16"s and second number is ?/8".
Thanks for catching that. AN3-7 is 3/16" bolt and 7/8" long ( my
fingers still wanted to make it 7/16").
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Tubes and fittings |
Looking in Aircraft Spruce and Wicks catalogs, I'm trying to figure out
which polyethylene, polyurethane or nylon fittings to use for which
tubes.
I have figured out the NPT (pipe) threads.
But, when the size says 1/4 Thread (Wicks) or 1/4T (ACS), what size tube
would I use: 1/4" ID or 1/4" OD?
In other words does 1/4 "Thread" go with 3/8" OD hose or 1/4" OD hose?
Also, ACS catalog says to use Nylon for fuel and Polyethylene for air.
Wicks saya Polyurethane for fuel and Nylon for air. What is best for
fuel?
I'll be using a 2.5 - 4 psi pump. Would there be any reason not to have
6D lines from tanks to pump and 4D lines from pump through filter and
flow sensor to carbs? Or is it better to have smaller diameter lines in
the suction lines from tanks to pump? I do not anticipate a flow above
15 GHP max.
I'm also looking for oil lines for higher temps than MIL-H-6000-10
(250F), to fit the fittings I've got (MS27223-1649-1-10-10D &
MS24590-1120-10). Looks like it needs a hose with 1" OD and 1/2-3/8 ID.
________________________________________________________________________________
MIL-H-83797 5/8" hose. Any suggestions?
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin J. Grammes" <kb8pk(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Newbie semi disaster... |
Hello all - I have been monitoring this list for several months , started
my RV6A emp kit in July and after a couple of goof ups (the 610 and 614) I
was all set to prime everything for the HS and then set to jig.
Well my kids were gone my wife was gone I had all day to prime...set the
compressor in the garage final cleanup and prep of materials mix the
primer( SW wash prime)
and load the Dockens prime gun shoot on some cardboard adjusting the
pressure looks good... away I go....Well it hits the aluminum and I can
tell its a glooby mess way to much primer coming out I try to adjust the
cup falls off......Well this is no good so I get out a regular spray gun
more clean up time but.....well after re-cleaning the parts and ready to
try again...same problem I believe, spotty very uneven coverage I believe
it should be a very light see through covering correct? well its a good
thing these parts are all inside and won't be seen because its ugly.....any
comments or suggestions on how this is done so it doesn't look so bad or
doesn't it really matter.
Dreaming of the day I'll be flying.... needing to get back to work.
Kevin J. Grammes
Tecumseh, MI.
RV6A - Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Mounting Distances |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)Juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
Randall,
Thanks for the input. Since I still have to refit the "Scoop" to the
bottom of the cowl (part of the repair process...) I should have a little
flexibility as to how everything fits.
Thanks everyone for the input.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
E. Windsor, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie semi disaster... |
This has been discussed and is in the archives. I found that thinning it
according to Van's suggestion instead of what's in the instructions works
best. If you don't get it thinned enough or mixed properly, what you got is
what you'll get! Yuk!
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>pressure looks good... away I go....Well it hits the aluminum and I can
>tell its a glooby mess way to much primer coming out I try to adjust the
>cup falls off......Well this is no good so I get out a regular spray gun
>more clean up time but.....well after re-cleaning the parts and ready to
>try again...same problem I believe, spotty very uneven coverage I believe
>it should be a very light see through covering correct? well its a good
>thing these parts are all inside and won't be seen because its ugly.....any
>comments or suggestions on how this is done so it doesn't look so bad or
>doesn't it really matter.
>
>
>Dreaming of the day I'll be flying.... needing to get back to work.
>Kevin J. Grammes
>Tecumseh, MI.
>RV6A - Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken hoshowski <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
My RV has a conical engine mount. I am looking for an engine/prop?
roughness so I thought I would check the 3/8 bolts that hold the mount
to the firewall. AN310 nuts are used and in checking my torque tables
they show these should be torqued to 160-185 inch pounds. That is only
about 15 ft/lbs. Hardly seems enough. My builders manual only said
torqued to equal values, no number is specified.
Does anyone know the recommended torque value for these bolts.
Thanks
Ken RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93
Beautiful British Columbia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for used tools |
>
>
> I was wondering if there was any sort of used tool market among the
> listers?
> Who needs 500 clecos after the plane is built,etc.I figure the more I can
> save the sooner I will fly.
>
Dennis - you will find that this addiction / affliction / hobby will occur again,
even after your RV is flying. For that reason you will probably find few who will
willingly part with their tools. You will enjoy your own new tools and when you
compare the price of the tools with the total project, the price for a life time
investment for aviation tools is minor. ( Yes, I'm as poor as the next guy :-)
but
I love tools!!)
Have fun building.
DGM - RV-6 Fitting every thing on the firewall.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gap b/t Rear Window Sides and Skin |
Ross Mickey wrote:
> I am concerned about a gap I have in the rear window. It fits flush with
> the aft skin at the top and at the sides. In-between, (at the 8-10 o'clock
> positions as you face the passenger side of the window)), there is a 12"
> area (on both sides not just the passenger side) which has about a 1/2" gap
> between the skin and window. I have already cut the canopy so I can't
> shift front to back. I can push the window up to meet the skin. If I
> drill this way, I think I will end up with small puckers between the screws
> (I am not using pop rivets).
Ross, I would think that 1/2" is not much and that if you start drilling
and clecoing from the centerline outward on each side, that the canopy
will conform satisfactorily without puckers. I feel that this would
certainly be true with the backing strip on the underside but I don't
know what your screw configuration might be. Good luck...
Will Cretsinger, Arlington TX
-6A Brake plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Type S Cowl |
Blah ba Blah wrote:
> Hi, I am getting all the fuselage bulkheads ready and I don't find
> mention of when to put the bend in the firewall or any measurements for
> same. I am working on a RV-6A.
David, I don't recall ever consciously bending the firewall. The ribs
which must be flush with the top of the firewall to eventually support
the upper forward skin will sort of automatically bend the firewall when
they are attached to the subpanel at the rear. It seemed to impart a
gentle curve to the firewall, not a "bend".
Will Cretsinger, Arlington TX
-6A Brake plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie semi disaster... |
>.Well it hits the aluminum and I can
>tell its a glooby mess way to much primer coming out I try to adjust the
>cup falls off..
Kevin,
I see the undermixing syndrome has struck again. It took a couple of tries to
cure myself of that one. Next time mix the hell out of it, take two asprins
and call me in the morning. You'll be fine.
Joel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hi All,
Has anyone out there used the cabin vents sold by Van's and Cleaveland?
These are the small, round, and rather expensive little jobs that simply
open out into the slipstream, then close up flush with the skin when not in
use. And experiences pro or con as well as recommended locations for said
vents would be appreciated.
Joe Rex
RV-4 Putting in all the expensive stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for used tools |
Find a builder who has recently finished his project. That is what I
did, and got my tools at half price.
Moe
DENNIS HART wrote:
>
>
> Listers-
>
> Wanted to thank all for the words of encouragement regarding building
> before having pilot license. It was the final little push I needed. I am
> setting up the garage and plan on ordering tail next week.
>
> I was wondering if there was any sort of used tool market among the
> listers?
> Who needs 500 clecos after the plane is built,etc.I figure the more I can
> save the sooner I will fly.
> Any responses off list @ dennishart(at)mindspring.com please.
>
> Dennis-getting spooled up
>
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie semi disaster... |
Go get some Sherwin Williams 988 Self etching primer in the spray cans.
It's the same stuff, but no mess or cleanup required. Coverage is even
due to a special nozzle, cans dont dry up. Some auto parts stores carry
the same stuff under the name "Martin Senour 7220 Self Etching primer".
I pay $5.50/can. Once you try it you will never go back. No more priming
sessions, just break out the can and the mask and prime parts as you go.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Kevin J. Grammes wrote:
>
>
> Hello all - I have been monitoring this list for several months , started
> my RV6A emp kit in July and after a couple of goof ups (the 610 and 614) I
> was all set to prime everything for the HS and then set to jig.
>
> Well my kids were gone my wife was gone I had all day to prime...set the
> compressor in the garage final cleanup and prep of materials mix the
> primer( SW wash prime)
> and load the Dockens prime gun shoot on some cardboard adjusting the
> pressure looks good... away I go....Well it hits the aluminum and I can
> tell its a glooby mess way to much primer coming out I try to adjust the
> cup falls off......Well this is no good so I get out a regular spray gun
> more clean up time but.....well after re-cleaning the parts and ready to
> try again...same problem I believe, spotty very uneven coverage I believe
> it should be a very light see through covering correct? well its a good
> thing these parts are all inside and won't be seen because its ugly.....any
> comments or suggestions on how this is done so it doesn't look so bad or
> doesn't it really matter.
>
> Dreaming of the day I'll be flying.... needing to get back to work.
> Kevin J. Grammes
> Tecumseh, MI.
> RV6A - Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lott, Michael" <Michael.Lott(at)ssc.nasa.gov> |
My engine seems to be sagging slightly on the mounts, as the exhaust is now
contacting the lower cowling and overheating a small spot. Is it acceptable
to add large washers to the lower mounts to pick it back up, or is therer a
better way? Thanks. Michael.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tip up canopoopy front lip skin &%*$~#@%)(_( |
Yup....poopy is what I got now....
Geez why do we want these darned things allways to look better than they do..
So, a while ago, while fitting the whole mess, and forward skin was cleco'd
on. I opened up that darned tip up while I thought the coast was
clear......NOT. The gap buckled and the canopy forward skin got whipped out
of shape.
In the forward most butt joint area, right at center, the skin on the canopy
frame now bells/flares up, causing a nice hood scoop effect in the shut
position. My canopoopy skin was high to begin with and didn't rest on the
flange of that forward bulkhead to begin with. Now much worse. Probably a
20MPH drag loss, say nothing about heat loss...
Then today on my friend's canopy, we found his skin does same/similar only
he's way off on the co-pilot's side, like canopy frame way built 1/4" to wide
and missed resting on that forward flange entirely. He thought the fit was
fine before forward firewall to dash forward bulkhead top skin was all riveted
on, and had the canopy off while other stuff was built. Once that forward
skin was riveted and the canopy was mounted today for what was to be the last
time, HOLY COW!!! Would you look at that "hood scooping type" gap.... not a
fun day there..
Ideas???
I was thinking I need to shrink this skin/edge. I have HVAC double flute,
flutting pliars, but it'd see-saw the front edge...probably not good. And the
little shower door roller'd skin edge bending tool just made the skin stretch
worse :.. (
I wonder if with the 3" head on the rivet squeezer and a Dimple die with pilot
stud ground off, strategically dimpling back from the actual front line if
it'd shrink it in??. Fill dimples with Aeropoxy to hid then...
Certainly I'm not the first one to do this..please say I'm not the first one
to do this....and you fixed it how??
or Will I just end up bondo'ng it away....... : (
See you at Oswego 9/12/98
David McManmon RV6 Cicero NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Sam James and BAC Cowl |
Guy's,
I just got off the phone with Sam James and I want to correct Marks' e-mail.
Sam's phone number is (941) 675-4493. (It's correct in the Yeller Pages)
I really get tired of typing this but like every other RVer I have spoken
too, Sam is a really NICE guy. I guess I should already EXPECT that.
Sam and I discussed the cowl and it's availablility and cost. Sam has
assured me that he has already paid Steve for the plugs and that Steve
should be shipping them to him any day now.
Unbeknownst to me Sam makes cowls for the Super Stinker and Starduster and
some other homebuilts so this is just an added product. He said the price
will be the same that Steve charged which I believe was somewhere around
$950. Sam also sells the Plenum for this set up which for the IO-360 is $410.
Well I promised Sam I would correct his phone number on the list and I have
done that and I hope you find the other info at least informative. Al
Col. Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael V Seager <rv6cfi(at)vernonia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine m,ounts |
Michael V Seager wrote:
>
> Ken, I put together an rv4 for a fellow last year it was a high
> performance O 360 with conical mounts. The vibration was terrible. We
> tried everything with no results, finally the fix was to install new
> lord mount type mounts instead of the rubber doughnut type. We had the
> engine strobe balanced with no help. If you would like the imformation
> on these please send me your fax number or your address and I'll send
> you the info. Best of luck Michael Seager
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Type S Cowl |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
Hi, I
>am getting all the fuselage bulkheads ready and I don't find mention
>of when to put the bend in the firewall or any measurements for same.
>I am working on a RV-6A. If I look long enough I will probably find
>the answers, but I would like to hear other builders comments.
>Thanks, David Ahrens
David,
The bend is meant to take place along the top edge of the top horizontal
1/8X3/4X3/4 angle.
Unless you have a bending brake to do it ahead of time, the simplest way
is wait until you are installing the fwd upper fuse. ribs and then do it
by hand. You can clamp any scrap piece of alum. or steel angle across
the Firewall at the bend point (a straight piece of hard wood would work
also) and form the slight bend by hand.
The stainless is quite soft and this does a very nice job if you work it
a little at a time back and forth.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: S-type cowl and O-320 FAB |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I've fitted the VA-130C plate to the carb, fitted the filter and
>mounted it
>to the VA-130C, and now am ready to start playing with the VA-130B
>and VA-130A tunnel parts. I have yet to fit the scoop to the cowl.
>I guess these questions go out to the S-type cowl users since the cowl
>
>is marked for the scoop. The instructions are sort of sketchy, at
>best.
>
>1. In my initial look, I may have to do some trimming at the front of
>the
>VA-130B to allow the scoop to fit in place. Did you?
The scoop is sized to fit any engine sump/carb location and allow for
trimming as needed (I think this is mentioned in the instructions).
Since you are building a 6A you would have to have a fwd induction sump
which would require some trimming of the scoop.
>
>2. Did the scoop fit inside the outlines without adjusting back and
>forth
>to meet the VA-130B?
The FAB320 generally has more than enough room. It can be a little
tighter for the FAB360 be still not a problem.
>
>3. I've noticed I've got the do some trimming on the VA-130B to allow
>
>for the carb sump. Did you?
This is also typical (and again I believe mentioned in the instructions)
their is quite a variation in carburetors so the provided cutout is
meant as a starting point and the builder then adjusts it to fit what
they have.
>
>4. The instructions say to put the VA-130B on the VA-130C to do the
>horizontal swings for the scoop line up. I found that it didn't make
>sense to do this without having the filter in place so I can see how
>it all
>fits as I do the fitting to the scoop.
As for the overall fitting with the type S cowl you should first mount
the scoop to the cowl (this is the way I have always done it with the
standard cowls also) and then fit the airbox to match the scoop inlet.
This can be done by installing only the bottom cowl with what we refer to
as the banjo (don't know part # but I think the description is obvious)
loosely clamped to the plate on the carb to allow you to reach down
inside and move it around.
You can also use a fluting pliers in the area where the neck meets the
body of the banjo to adjust the elevation at the scoop inlet.
Once you think you have it close... check to see that all of the bolt
holes on the mounting plate have equal distance to the edge of the big
hole in the banjo so that it will fit on around the filter.
When you finally have it where you want it then drill some holes, and
refit the fiberglass portion, once again checking it to the cowl scoop so
that you get the proper amount of opening relative to the scoop inlet.
P.S. Anyone installing an FAB360 can follow pretty much the same
process though in some ways it is even easier because the filter is held
in by the bottom of the scoop which means that the scoop position on the
plate isn't critical as long as it is somewhat centered.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Attachment to VS Hardware |
Phil,
You make three plates that have a nutplate riveted to them. They are then
riveted to the forward rudder spar. That allows some adjustment if you drill
the holes a bit off from where they should be.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip up canopoopy front lip skin &%*$~#@%)(_( |
David, you might try borrowing/buying a shrinker/stretcher such as U. S.
Industrial Tools and others sell. Practice on some scrap first and go real
easy. It does leave some little bite marks but they will sand out and after
painting you will not see them. I stretched a tank skin using a roller set
too tight and removed it with this method. I don't think this will work to
correct a 1/4" too large canopy frame, but it will help on your stretched
skin. You're not the first to have this happen for sure. Mine just wasn't
that bad and seamers took care of it. Good luck.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/ Tacoma WA
-----Original Message-----
>
>Yup....poopy is what I got now....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping Charges |
I have found the people at Van's to be helpful at every turn. The shipping
charges are not worth worrying about...The tech support is.. don't delay your
project because of that. They have been great. Bob Claypool
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie semi disaster... |
In a message dated 8/29/98 1:45:34 Central Daylight Time, kb8pk(at)tc3net.com
writes:
<< after re-cleaning the parts and ready to try again...same problem I
believe, spotty very uneven coverage I believe it should be a very light see
through covering correct? >>
Correct. Thin your primer some more. Atomization is the key, and if your
primer is too viscous, it won't atomize right.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
Joe Rex,
Do not order the vents from (Van's whisperflow). They are flimsy and need
modification with pro seal so they don't leak. Aircraft Spruce has some nice
ones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Italian Gascolator....? |
Is anyone familiar with the Marc-Ingegno Gascolator that Aircraft Spruce
has in their catalog? Is it smaller than the more common ACS Gascolator,
....shorter, taller? How does it mount.
AS I hope to mount a gascolator in the wing root both sides I am looking
at all possible units for best fit.
Thank You,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, Mounting wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Voltage Regulator. |
Hi All,
I have a question reguarding the Transpo M5-130A voltage regulator
that I bought from Van's. It has three grouped wires (GRN,BLK,RED) with a
plug and a single (YELLOW) wire with plug.Can someone tell me what these
wires are defined as?
Van's had zero paperwork with it.And maybe someone knows were to get the
mate for these plugs.Also I bought the Alt kit that Van's sells (35
amps).Any input on this kit?
Thanks, John Hughes
RV-6 So Cal. Hookin things
up!!Oshkosh 99!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Newbie semi disaster... |
Kevin,
I ditched the paper cup gun after a year and bought a $25 painting gun
at Wal-Mart. The trigger broke the first time I tried to use it, but
with all this RV experience I was able to fix it by making new parts.
It shoots primer much better. It also made me feel that I can paint the
outside someday, with a good gun of course.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A floors
-----Original Message----- load the Dockens prime gun
shoot on some cardboard adjusting the
pressure looks good... away I go....Well it hits the
aluminum and I can
tell its a glooby mess way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
Joe,
I have to strongly disagree with you on this. Van's vents are inexpensive,
light, easy to install and look good. They do leak slightly in the closed
position, but this is easy to fix with a No-Hub pipe cap available from any
home store. The only time you need them completely sealed is in the winter.
Even without the pipe caps, the vents can be pointed towards the sidewall
and presto, no cold air on the occupants.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>
>Joe Rex,
>Do not order the vents from (Van's whisperflow). They are flimsy and need
>modification with pro seal so they don't leak. Aircraft Spruce has some nice
>ones
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
> the forward long
> section is attached to the fuse with nutplates, c/s washers and
> screws. I used a few clip nuts on the bottom section to attach
> it to the fuel tank part. I used no attachment to the top of the wing.
> RV4 CO.
I also have the Sam James wing root fairings on my -6a. I used #6 c/s screws
and washers with nutplates in the fuse and along the top of the wing, and on
the bottom flange of the fuel tanks. There are no fasteners where the fairing
lays along the top of the fuel tank, for they would have to be inside the
tank! During my flight testing, I had a buzz that would appear at airspeeds
above 140 IAS. Sounded like a C-152 stall warning. Turned out to be the right
fairing section that laid across the top of the fuel tank didn't sit tight
enough. I was able to use a heat gun to slightly reshape the fairing and stop
the buzz. I flew to an IAS of 210, no more buzz!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator bracket: 2024-T4 vs 6061-T6 |
In fabricating the alternator tension bracket from Van's alternator
mounting kit I messed up and need to rebuild the piece. In Van's kit
the bracket piece that one uses to adjust belt tension is made from
2024-T4 aluminum (no alloy specified). The plans with Van's kit simply
say 3/16" or 1/4" Aluminum. I was able to get 6061- T6 in 1/4"
thickness. Will this make a suitable substitute, or should I get some
2024-T4 instead?
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
I don't believe Joe was referring to the Wisperflow but rather to the
Miniture Ventilator listed in the new catalog as CA LV-3 Ventilator @
$59.00.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA (Baffles & engine stuff)
>
>Joe Rex,
>Do not order the vents from (Van's whisperflow). They are flimsy and need
>modification with pro seal so they don't leak. Aircraft Spruce has some
nice
>ones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator. |
The yellow wire is not used, and on mine, was clipped off at the insulator
as it exits the regulator case. The instructions mentioning this was also
in the box. The alternator instructions include a wiring diagram and shows
the red wire going to A/C electrical buss through a 5 amp swithed circuit
and the green wire to the field terminal on the alternator. Black goes to
ground at the regulator by installing a ring terminal on the wire after
removing and discarding the molded on plug. Butt splice on the other wires
to the switch and alternator field (which comes with a plug with three
wires, including a white one which is not used either).
The alternator kit is pretty straight forward IMO and I found that it fit my
0-360A1A with type S cowl without interference. The only thing I had to do
was size the belt so that the case didn't rub on the oil line to the prop
and yet not hang so low as to hit the cowl after the engine has settled
and/or I pull a few G's. Of course you can't remove the belt by just
loosening the adjuster arm; you have to remove the flywheel (after removing
the prop). And in order to do that, you have to remove the Sky-Tec starter
(which now comes with the engine) because the ring gear will not clear the
end bearing boss. Not good for belt replacement when needed.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Hi All,
> I have a question reguarding the Transpo M5-130A voltage regulator
>that I bought from Van's. It has three grouped wires (GRN,BLK,RED) with a
>plug and a single (YELLOW) wire with plug.Can someone tell me what these
>wires are defined as?
>Van's had zero paperwork with it.And maybe someone knows were to get the
>mate for these plugs.Also I bought the Alt kit that Van's sells (35
>amps).Any input on this kit?
>
> Thanks, John Hughes
> RV-6 So Cal. Hookin things
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie semi disaster... |
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
>
> Kevin,
>
> I ditched the paper cup gun after a year and bought a $25 painting gun
> at Wal-Mart. The trigger broke the first time I tried to use it, but
> with all this RV experience I was able to fix it by making new parts.
> It shoots primer much better. It also made me feel that I can paint the
> outside someday, with a good gun of course.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A floors
>
>
I gave the paper cup gun away after the first use when the cup departed
the
gun and spilled $$$veriprime all over my shoes. Tried the $25 touch up
gun
with good success, but bought an $80 HVLP gun from Harbor Freight
which works very well and I don't loose a lot of primer as overspary
is minimal. It cleans up real fast and easy as well.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse skins...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
Yep, it is in the instructions....
>
>I've never heard of this. Is it in the plans?
>
>-Larry
>RV-8 VS
>Email: larry(at)bowen.com
>Web: http://larry.bowen.com
>
>[snip]
>>Recently I got my rudder all closed up, stood back to admire it... and
>>realized that I forgot the RTV.
>[snap]
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie semi disaster... |
As a caution to newbies, the HVLP gun Ed suggests requires a high output
compressor (9 CFM according to the instructions).
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>I gave the paper cup gun away after the first use when the cup departed
>the
>gun and spilled $$$veriprime all over my shoes. Tried the $25 touch up
>gun
>with good success, but bought an $80 HVLP gun from Harbor Freight
>which works very well and I don't loose a lot of primer as overspary
>is minimal. It cleans up real fast and easy as well.
>
>Ed Cole
>RV6A Fuse skins...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Huntington Lift Reserve Indicator |
Look in the archives under angle of attack or stall warning for related
items. I purchased the AOA from Jim Frantz of Proprietary Software Systems.
You can view these at http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LFrantz/
Ross Mickey
----------
> From: John Fasching
> Subject: RV-List: Huntington Lift Reserve Indicator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator bracket: 2024-T4 vs 6061-T6 |
<< In Van's kit
the bracket piece that one uses to adjust (alternator) belt tension is made
from
2024-T4 aluminum. The plans with Van's kit simply
say 3/16" or 1/4" Aluminum (no alloy specified). I was able to get 6061- T6
in 1/4"
thickness. Will this make a suitable substitute, or should I get some
2024-T4 instead? >>
Tim
The strength of 2024-T4 is substantially greater than that of 6061-T6.
Actually, B&C uses 3/16" steel for both the mounting bracket and the
tensioner, so please don't compromise on the strength of these items. If you
do aerobatics, you should also fabricate a compression link between the
Alternator mounting bolt and the threaded boss on the starter. This is
especially true if you use the B&C 60A alternator (heavy). I have one
designed in AutoCAD that I can send or post to your website.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator. |
I intended to include in my reply that as an alternative to butt splicing,
using insulated spade terminals or other quick disconnects would allow
easier replacement of the regulator, but my brain became disengaged again.
Les
>removing and discarding the molded on plug. Butt splice on the other wires
>to the switch and alternator field (which comes with a plug with three
>wires, including a white one which is not used either).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Hi All,
Just a quick double check before I plunk down the cash...
0320 A2A - to be installed in a RV-6
OK??
(for info - will it work in a -6A?)
Larry Olson
RV6 - Right Wing
Cave Creek, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator bracket: 2024-T4 vs 6061-T6 |
Tim Lewis wrote:
>I was able to get 6061- T6 in 1/4" thickness. Will this make a
> suitable substitute, or should I get some 2024-T4 instead?
According to the Joseph T. Ryerson's Stock List (A metal suppy house)
6061-T6 has a yield strength of 40,000 psi and an elongation of 17%.
2024-T4 has a yield strength of 47,000 psi and an elongation of 20%
2024-T4 (Alclad) has a yield strength of 62,000 psi and an elongation of
19%
If you substitute 1/4" 6061-T6 for 3/16" 2024-T4 (non-alclad), the part
will be stronger, but heavier.
Van may have used what was laying around, ie used in other parts, or may
have choosen it for it strength.
2024 specifies the alloy(4.5% copper), T4 the temper.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk,VA, RV-6A, Assembling fuselage skeleton.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | HVLP conversion guns |
>
> As a caution to newbies, the HVLP gun Ed suggests requires a high output
> compressor (9 CFM according to the instructions).
>
[...]
> >with good success, but bought an $80 HVLP gun from Harbor Freight
> >which works very well and I don't loose a lot of primer as overspary
> >is minimal. It cleans up real fast and easy as well.
I'm using an HVLP conversion gun (US$150, I got it on special for US$75)
which sits on my 12 cfpm 2.5hp ChargeAir compressor. Imron 830 goes on like
a dream, is pretty much bulletproof, and even on bad days, I get good
results (and I'm a complete beginner). Minimal overspray, and the gun cleans
up quickly. BUT the compressor starts up 30 seconds after I start spraying
and doesn't stop until after I do. I don't think a 9 cfm would cut it for
this particular gun. (what brand? Um. Lemme see. "Made In China"). For $75,
I wasn't going to be too upset if it didn't work, but now I couldn't be
happier with it. I'm just careful about when I spray so the neighbours don't
complain about the compressor running continuously.
________________
Chris Hinch Phone: +64-3-477-2995
Systems Manager Cell: +025-228-1244
Animation Research Ltd Fax: +64-3-479-9751
442 Moray Place, Dunedin, New Zealand Email: chinch(at)arl.co.nz
RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Gleixner <agleix(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Priming |
Just starting to fabricate the first fuel tank and was wondering what gets primed.
The instructions mention not to prime the inside, but I was wondering if
the parts get primed on the outside. In particular, how should the following
parts be primed:
Z-Angle Attach Brackets - Yes or No
T405 Forward Attach Brackets - Yes or No
Outside of tank access plate
Outside (Bottom) of Tank Baffle
A number of these parts are not alclad so I would think they need primed. On the
other hand, there are rivets that go through these pieces into the tank. Will
the primer cause problems with the proseal on these rivets. Thanks in advance.
Aaron Gleixner
RV8A - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron spacer question |
Can someone clarify for me, if a spacer is required on the aileron
hinge for the bolt that attaches to the Heim bolt? I have a spacer
at the front of the hinge (where it attached to the rear spar support)
but cannot determine if a rear spacer is required.
Thanks
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Priming |
agleix(at)worldnet.att.net wrote:
> Just starting to fabricate the first fuel tank and was wondering what gets
> primed. The instructions mention not to prime the inside, but I was
> wondering if the parts get primed on the outside. In particular, how
> should the following parts be primed:
>
> Z-Angle Attach Brackets - Yes or No
> T405 Forward Attach Brackets - Yes or No
> Outside of tank access plate
> Outside (Bottom) of Tank Baffle
I've just finished my tank construction, and I'll be priming the
completed tanks.
I think it would be a *bad* idea to prime the individual parts before
assembly; if you did that, you'd have primer between the tank sealant
and the metal.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tip up canopoopy front lip skin &%*$~#@%)(_( |
> So, a while ago, while fitting the whole mess, and forward skin was cleco'd
> on. I opened up that darned tip up while I thought the coast was
> clear......NOT. The gap buckled and the canopy forward skin got whipped
out
> of shape.
This happened to me!!! Hit that row of clecos hard with the canopy skin while
showing off by cool tip-up canopy to some shop guests... mine was fixable
with a crescent wrench to reverse-bend the metal, but not perfectly. when
closed the bulkhead sort of makes it conform flat; when open you still see the
waves.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 28 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carol Richards <crcar(at)cc.newcastle.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie semi disaster... |
Kevin and List: My 2 Cents worth on getting the painting right:
Check the data sheets for your paint.
They will give you the optimal mixing/thinning ratios for your application
(as well as other useful data). Sometimes a 'Din' time is given, usually in
seconds,
which specifies how long a volume of mixed paint will take to exit
through a hole in the bottom of a Din cup. The longer the din time,
the thicker the paint and conversely. In the USA there may be a diffferent
standard, but same principle applies. The spec sheets
should also advise you of the nozzle diameter to be used in your
gun. As mentioned before, thorough mixing is important. Make sure
your gun is squeaky clean - at least at the fluid tip and air cap.
I usually disassemble; brush the above parts with thinners; reassemble; run
clean thinners through and leave 1/2" in the cup
during storage. Check that you are not spraying during times of high
humidity or outside the temp specs of your paint.
The reps for the paint companies usually have instrucional videos for
their products - esp if they are used in painting cars. You may be
able to borrow one with the promise to show it at an EAA chapter meeting.
I agree, preps for painting have to be the most painful
part of building. As with other tasks you will experiment and find
what works for you most efficiently. Moe's idea of using spray cans
has a lot of appeal, especially for smaller bits and the occasional
correction.
I hope this helps, Sam (RV-6 skins going on wings) Newcastle Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sam James and BAC Cowl |
<< I just got off the phone with Sam James and I want to correct Marks' e-
mail.
Sam's phone number is (941) 675-4493. >>
Aw crap. Sorry, guys.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
For -8 builders...At the forum Van held at Oshkosh the suggestion was made
to hold off on closing the wings. Anyone have any other word on this?
Should I rivet on the skins or not???
Bill Pagan
80555 - fuselage not shipping until 10/19:'(
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>For -8 builders...At the forum Van held at Oshkosh the suggestion was
made
>to hold off on closing the wings. Anyone have any other word on this?
>Should I rivet on the skins or not???
>
>Bill Pagan
>
Bill,
Hmm...interesting. Who was it that made the suggestion to "hold off on
closing the wings"? Was it a Van's representative, or suggested by a
builder in attendance? For those of us with finished wings, it's too
late to turn back now. The crash happened just as I was closing the last
wing panel, and I also paused to think about my options. Just like the
stock market these days, you just gotta have faith..and boldly forge
ahead. We'll see if this was a correct plan or not, probably very soon.
I wish I could offer more insight, but the jury is still out on this
issue.
Hang in there, Bill..the fuselage is a blast! You get to pound on stuff
with a big hammer. No, I'm not kidding. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
landing gear boxes underway.
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Foss <lfoss(at)silcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: subscription to the list |
Please unsubscribe me.
Thanks,
Travis
Pat Walker wrote:
>
> sirs,
> please unsubscribe my e-mail from the rv-list
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lundquist" <DLUNDQUIST(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
> >For -8 builders...At the forum Van held at Oshkosh the suggestion was
> made
> >to hold off on closing the wings. Anyone have any other word on this?
> >Should I rivet on the skins or not???
> >
> >Bill Pagan
I was in attendance at the RV-3/4/8 seminar even though I'm building a 6.
As I recall the word from Van himself was that if you hadn't closed your
wings, it was recommended that you not at this point do so until this issue
is relsolved to Van's satisfaction. It was stated that the entire fuse
could be completed without finishing the wings.
Is this what the others heard?
Dave Lundquist
RV-6 Wings
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-4 Crash in NC |
Just read in the local paper that Richard Bibb of the RV-list experienced a
forced landing on his new RV-4 at the University of North Carolina Airport on
Saturday. The paper said he was on a final when the engine quite. He avoided
a school with football players at practice to land in the trees. The paper
said he walked away, but the plane was a total loss. Sorry to hear of the
misfortune, but glad to hear that you walked away Richard.
Louis Smith
RV-8 N801RV
50ttsn
Rocky Mount, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Gregory <sgregory(at)ccnet.com> |
| Subject: | GOLDEN WEST EAA Regional Fly-In |
Hi List!
I'm Steve Gregory, and I have been monitoring the list for six months.
What great information!! I have my RV-8 empennage kit and have been
building s-l-o-o-o-w-l-y, because another project has been taking most
of my time, and I think it is within the scope of this list to share it
with you.
On September 25, 26 and 27 the Golden West Aviation Association, Inc. (a
group of EAA members/volunteers) will launch the first annual Golden
West EAA Regional Fly-In at Castle Airport near Atwater, CA. Castle
Airport (formerly Castle AFB) is in the central San Joaquin Valley of
California. This fly-in will have all the features you would expect to
see at an EAA regional fly-in. Seminars, forums, workshops,
manufactures/exhibitors, RV parking, camping (tent and underwing),
display planes, aircraft judging/awards, static displays and daily air
shows.
It is very easy to fly into Castle. The end of September in central
California is great VFR weather with the temperatures hovering in the
mid-80's (maybe the low 90's). Please check the NOTAM for fly-in info.
Rather than take everyone's time here to discuss the event, e-mail me
off-list (sgregory(at)ccnet.com)if you have any questions or would like
more information. It would be great to have a bunch of RV's gathering
at this event. Thanks.
Steve Gregory
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
Will be building like crazy after the fly-in!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Gregory <sgregory(at)ccnet.com> |
| Subject: | GOLDEN WEST EAA Regional Fly-In |
An after thought to my previous post....to get more information about
the fly-in, check out the web page at http://www.gwaafly-in.org. Thanks.
Steve
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
I followed the instructions to add a bit of black RTV on the edge of the
butterfly valve and my vents seal completely with no leakage at all.
Jim Cone
Repeat Offender
RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GOLDEN WEST EAA Regional Fly-In |
Steve Gregory wrote:
>
>
> An after thought to my previous post....to get more information about
> the fly-in, check out the web page at http://www.gwaafly-in.org. Thanks.
>
> Steve
> RV8 Empennage
> San Ramon, CA
>
Steve
That url does not work for me. Is it correct?
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Priming |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Just starting to fabricate the first fuel tank and was wondering what
>gets primed. The instructions mention not to prime the inside, but I
>was wondering if the parts get primed on the outside. In particular,
>how should the following parts be primed:
>
>Z-Angle Attach Brackets - Yes or No
Yes
>T405 Forward Attach Brackets - Yes or No
Yes
>Outside of tank access plate
Builders choice
>Outside (Bottom) of Tank Baffle
Builders choice
>
>A number of these parts are not alclad so I would think they need
>primed. On the other hand, there are rivets that go through these
>pieces into the tank. Will the primer cause problems with the proseal
>on these rivets. Thanks in advance.
>
I am not quite sure what the concern is that you have about the primer
causing problems with the tank sealant on the rivets?
By the time you are installing the non alclad parts (the Z brackets, and
the tank support bracket) hopefully the tank has already been sealed to
fuel leakage on the inside side of the tank where these parts attach. In
fact the construction man. cautions about getting too much of a sealant
buildup in the mating area of the Z brackets because it can space the
baffle away from the ribs or the Z brackets away from the baffle, and
this can effect the tank fully seating down on to the spar as it was when
it was originally drilled (this is not a problem with RV-4 or 6's).
Bottom line is follow the recommendations that any parts made from plate
material or extrusion should be primed, anything alclad is up to the
builder.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Just a quick double check before I plunk down the cash...
>
>0320 A2A - to be installed in a RV-6
>
>OK??
>
>(for info - will it work in a -6A?)
>
Larry, The main thing you need to check on (if you don't want to have to
by other parts to modify it) is to be sure that it is a straight riser
sump engine.
You have to have this for a 6A so that the carb./airbox clears the nose
gear leg.
The way to check is see where the hole is in the bottom for the carb.
mounting.
If it is at the far aft of the sump then it wont work without
modification.
If the carb mounts at approximately the center of the sump then it will
work.
BTW the name straight riser comes from the shape of the induction tubes.
If it is a straight riser sump then the induction tubes have just a
single bend to get from the sump to the cylinder. If the engine has a
rear mounted carb. then the induction tubes have numerous bends in them.
Once you look at one of each the description is very clear.
Mainly just look for the carb. location.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Alternator belt replacement (was Voltage Regulator.) |
> Of course you
> can't remove the belt by just loosening the adjuster arm; you have
> to remove the flywheel (after removing the prop). And in order to
> do that, you have to remove the Sky-Tec starter (which now comes
> with the engine) because the ring gear will not clear the end
> bearing boss. Not good for belt replacement when needed.
A good trick is to put a second belt into position but tied out of
the way when you mount the alternator. Two belts should be good for
what, 400 hours each?
Peter Bennett
RV6 firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Gregory <sgregory(at)ccnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GOLDEN WEST EAA Regional Fly-In |
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
> Steve Gregory wrote:
> >
> >
> > An after thought to my previous post....to get more information about
> > the fly-in, check out the web page at http://www.gwaafly-in.org. Thanks.
> >
> > Steve
> > RV8 Empennage
> > San Ramon, CA
> >
>
> Steve
> That url does not work for me. Is it correct?
>
> --
> Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
> jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
>
Sorry List...
The real URL for the Golden West EAA Regional Fly-In '98 is
http://www.gwfly-in.org.
Steve Gregory
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MK-319-BS Rivets |
| From: | rvsixer(at)Juno.com (michael d hilger) |
What size hole do you drill for a MK-319-BS pop rivet? They fit
pretty sloppy in a #30 hole.
Mike Hilger
RV-6, Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
Does anyone have pictures of these fairings on the net?
Dave Fried
> I also have the Sam James wing root fairings on my -6a. I used #6 c/s screws
>and washers with nutplates in the fuse and along the top of the wing, and on
>the bottom flange of the fuel tanks. There are no fasteners where the fairing
>lays along the top of the fuel tank, for they would have to be inside the
>tank! During my flight testing, I had a buzz that would appear at airspeeds
>above 140 IAS. Sounded like a C-152 stall warning. Turned out to be the right
>fairing section that laid across the top of the fuel tank didn't sit tight
>enough. I was able to use a heat gun to slightly reshape the fairing and stop
>the buzz. I flew to an IAS of 210, no more buzz!
>
>Mark LaBoyteaux
>RV-6A N106RV
>MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
>Broken Arrow, OK
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> |
> I was in attendance at the RV-3/4/8 seminar even though I'm building a 6.
> As I recall the word from Van himself was that if you hadn't closed your
> wings, it was recommended that you not at this point do so until this issue
> is relsolved to Van's satisfaction. It was stated that the entire fuse
> could be completed without finishing the wings.
>
> Is this what the others heard?
>
> Dave Lundquist
> RV-6 Wings
> Long Island, NY
That's what I heard at the forum.
Scott
--
Gotta Fly or
Gonna Die !
RV-4 tailkit in hand!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
Here is a note I received from the man who sells the AOA lift
indicators. When I get the info I will pass that along to, if
any one is interested. Michael.
(with Cubic Circle's cucipop (v1.21 1997/08/10) Mon Aug 31 06:51:19 1998)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 17:47:32 -0400
From: "Lynda K. Frantz" <LFrantz(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: AOA
I'll mail you some AOA info via snail mail.
Until recently full range AOA instruments were not affordable at $22,000
and up but no longer. The AOA Professional lists for $1,450. Even the=
simple A/C Spruce pre stall warner which requires a switch cut into the
wing "D" section wired to a horn/light is $1,200+ as a comparison.
The AOA is self compensating and is the only instrument that is a true
aerodynamic indicator. Just as there is an optimum AOA for all approache=
s
there is also an optimum AOA for initial climbs, the best L/D, Vx, Vy, an=
d
maximum endurance regardless of weight, altitude, fuel load, temperature,=
etc. In addition any given airfoil always stalls at the same AOA
regardless. The AOA Professional includes a voice warning system, gear
warning system and has no protrusions or moving parts to ice up or slow y=
ou
down.
A custom cable is also included.
We have a simple web at www.lancair.net. Give me a call at (612) 474-415=
4
if you would like.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip up canopoopy front lip skin &%*$~#@%)(_( |
%#$2(* thing happened to me with my Tip Up canopy. Stretched the leading edge
with the celcos and it had been laying down beautifully flat (Sob!). Mine was
so
bad I got one of those metal Shrinker and that made it better, but not really
satisfactory. Wish I had know before!!!
Ed RV-6A N494BW
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> > So, a while ago, while fitting the whole mess, and forward skin was cleco'd
> > on. I opened up that darned tip up while I thought the coast was
> > clear......NOT. The gap buckled and the canopy forward skin got whipped
> out
> > of shape.
>
> This happened to me!!! Hit that row of clecos hard with the canopy skin while
> showing off by cool tip-up canopy to some shop guests... mine was fixable
> with a crescent wrench to reverse-bend the metal, but not perfectly. when
> closed the bulkhead sort of makes it conform flat; when open you still see the
> waves.
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A 28 hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Crash in NC |
Yes I did walk away - the slow stall speed of these birds saved me. Put it
in the tops of some trees. Ended up vertical with the spinner on the
ground. Only injuries are scratches incurred by climbing through cracked
canopy. It looks like it *might* be rebuildable. Rudder, vertical stab,
right elevator, ailerons hardly scratched... Fuselage intact with some
damage at rear spar attach points.
I was lucky - I'll have more later.
These are GREAT airplanes....
>
>Just read in the local paper that Richard Bibb of the RV-list experienced a
>forced landing on his new RV-4 at the University of North Carolina Airport on
>Saturday. The paper said he was on a final when the engine quite. He avoided
>a school with football players at practice to land in the trees. The paper
>said he walked away, but the plane was a total loss. Sorry to hear of the
>misfortune, but glad to hear that you walked away Richard.
>
>Louis Smith
>RV-8 N801RV
>50ttsn
>Rocky Mount, NC
>
>
>
>
>
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron spacer question |
Yes, you will have to make spacers for this bolt too. Make the spacer
fit so that the Heim doesn't hit the hinge pieces anywhere during the
aileron's up and down travel.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A cockpit floors
-----Original Message-----Can someone clarify for me, if
a spacer is required on the aileron
hinge for the bolt that attaches to the Heim bolt? I
have a spacer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com> "Steve D Nichols" |
WITH ALL OF THE EXCITEMENT OF THE RV-8 AND 8A I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS
OR KNOWS ANYONE WHO HAS AN RV-4 PROJECT FOR SALE ? ADVISED BY A FRIEND TO
MAKE THIS POST BEFORE I ORDER THE EMP. KIT JUST TO SEE WHAT HAPPENS.
PLEASE RESPOND TO ME DIRECTLY AT www.steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com
THANKS FOR THE HELP
STEVE NICHOLS (READY TO ORDER -4)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylortel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MK-319-BS Rivets |
michael d hilger wrote:
> What size hole do you drill for a MK-319-BS pop rivet? They fit
> pretty sloppy in a #30 hole.
I pilot the hole with a #40. Then use a #33 for final fit.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX RV-4 N311CB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Crash in NC |
Glad to hear no significant injuries, Richard. Agree with you, the slow stall
speed does a lot with making a controlled decent survivible in an RV. Also says
a
lot about the pilot with the skills, control, and presence of mind to be able to
put it into the tree tops. Hopefully, you can repair the bird, I am more than
willing to help in any way I can if you do decide to rebuild it. Have most of my
tools still at the airport.
Regretfully that the bird is bent, but the (only?) good news is that you are not.
Ed
Richard Bibb wrote:
>
> Yes I did walk away - the slow stall speed of these birds saved me. Put it
> in the tops of some trees. Ended up vertical with the spinner on the
> ground. Only injuries are scratches incurred by climbing through cracked
> canopy. It looks like it *might* be rebuildable. Rudder, vertical stab,
> right elevator, ailerons hardly scratched... Fuselage intact with some
> damage at rear spar attach points.
>
> I was lucky - I'll have more later.
>
> These are GREAT airplanes....
>
> >
> >Just read in the local paper that Richard Bibb of the RV-list experienced a
> >forced landing on his new RV-4 at the University of North Carolina Airport on
> >Saturday. The paper said he was on a final when the engine quite. He avoided
> >a school with football players at practice to land in the trees. The paper
> >said he walked away, but the plane was a total loss. Sorry to hear of the
> >misfortune, but glad to hear that you walked away Richard.
> >
> >Louis Smith
> >RV-8 N801RV
> >50ttsn
> >Rocky Mount, NC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Richard E. Bibb
> RV-4 N144KT
> Oak Hill, VA
> rbibb(at)fore.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MK-319-BS Rivets |
I believe a 7/64ths is correct.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>
> What size hole do you drill for a MK-319-BS pop rivet? They fit
>pretty sloppy in a #30 hole.
>
> Mike Hilger
> RV-6, Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
>Who was it that made the suggestion to "hold off on
closing the wings"?
I was at the Oshkosh forum and Van suggested builders hold off in closing
the wings. However, this was before the latest load testing of the wings
(as published at the "update" section of Van's web page). I'd contact the
factory and see if the "hold" is still being recommended.
As you know, this is only for the 8 / 8a and not the other series of
aircraft.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
Potential RV-8a builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MK-319-BS Rivets |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
> What size hole do you drill for a MK-319-BS pop rivet? They
>fit
>pretty sloppy in a #30 hole.
>
> Mike Hilger
RV-6,
>
The construction man. says to use 7/64".
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harris" <johnh(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV4 Incident in NC |
Just saw the newspaper picture of Richard Bibb's RV4 hanging from a crane
(Chapel Hill, NC). Although described as a total loss, the aircraft was
completely intact, except for a wing tip, and except for some ripples in the
wing, certainly didn't look like a plane that had just been in a power off
landing into trees. My point is: The RV design with its monocoque aluminum
construction and 50 mph landing speed is what I want to be flying if, God
forbid, I ever get caught in a similar situation in an "experimental,
amatuer built" airplane.
John Harris
Cary, NC
Ordering RV8 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
>If you want vents that work then buy the ones from Van's.
>most builders don't seem to realize that if you want vents that work well
>they need to have pretty good sized openings.
>If you use the little nice looking vents that close of real well, the
>amount of air they provide is barely enough to feel the air hitting you
>
>Scott McDaniels
Or, you can use the really nice looking big aluminum vents available from Harmon.
They
are just a tad larger than the Whisperflows and look really nice.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | R.S. Jankowski Looking for |
I am looking for a mailing address and phone number for this fellow. I took
a couple of pictures of his plane at the take-off of the Sun 100 and
thought he would like to have them.
R.S. Jankowski
2612 ????????? Dr
Cooper City FL ?????-????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe P/S mounting |
Listers,
I'm mounting separate strobe power supplies in each wing. I can mount
them, with nutplates, on the spar web, or on either side of the end ribs.
What do people typically do?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI.
RV-6AQ, finishing up the wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
> It's the file that sits in my tool chest and doesn't get any use, anymore.
>since I discovered a quicker and easier method for stock removal.
> First, the hand-held belt sander. I have a SandCat made by Skill. It's
>the smallest and lightest that I've seen. This tool works very well on
>straight runs, like smoothing down to a cut line on sheet. Use your snips
>to cut outside the line and take it down to the line with the belt sander.
>I also use the belt sander to smooth the rough, sheared edges of flat sheet
>and ribs and bulkheads before using the "V" double edge deburring tool. The
>tool seems to chatter less if smoothed before using the tool.
>Bob Skinner RV-6 438 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
Ive been looking for a light weight belt sander as Bob described and found
that a small lightweight electric sander is hard to come by these days.
While wandering through Harbor Freight this last weekend I found a Central
Pneumatic air sander that fits the bill nicely. Uses a 3/4" X 21" belt and
weighs less than 2 pounds. Cost is $89.95 (but I got their used demo for
$45). I dont know if anyone else went looking for a belt sander following
Bob's post, but hope this helps.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson, John" <john.anderson(at)spcf.siemens.com> |
| Subject: | gear leg fairing |
Does anyone know if you can buy the gear leg fairing for a rv-4...or do I
have to make it myself? The fairing I am talking about is the one at the
top of the gear leg that joins the fuselage.
John C. Anderson
Siemens Power Corporation
1040 S. 70th Street
Milwaukee, WI 53214
(414) 475-4201
(414) 475-4461 - fax
E-mail: john.anderson(at)spcf.siemens.com
Flying RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | fuel drain valve O-rings |
>I have noticed that the small O-ring on the quick drain valves in the
>fuel tanks have seriously deteriorated and should be replaced. Is there
>anything special about these O-rings?
They are a flatter ring than the standard O-ring (a great design ploy: you
have to have their O-rings). I have several extra I ordered when ordering
something else from Aircraft Spruce and keep them in my traveling tool kit.
There are several sizes; get the seal for the CAV-110. My drains have
occasionally oozed blue, but a small twist or pull puts a stop to that.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flying (a lot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
>I have Sam James wing root fairings, but I'm not sure how they
>are to be attached to the wing/fuselage.
I LIKE them. It still took me several days to match them to my fuselage/wing
(filling the small gap variations). I used screws and nutplates to attach.
This may seem obvious but do NOT drill into your fuel tank. I put nutplates
in the flange inboard of the tank with nothing on the leading edge, and on
the upper wing skins further aft. I bent up little flanges to fit the
fuselage under the airplane. They fit and look great.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flying (a lot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location on RV-4 |
>The last item is the GPS antenna which needs to go on the top of the
>airplane for obvious reasons.
Mine is on the top of the baggage skin under the canopy. I fashioned several
mounting devices and finally just used two "U" channels under the sides (my
antenna is square-ish). Works great. Only problem is the coverage is not
good in a 45+ degree bank, which one must occasionally do during a long
cross-country. Engine compartment idea is a good one: puts the weight up
front. I wonder if vibration/heat would bother the antenna (probably not)
and about yet another wire going through the firewall.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flying (a lot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mack, Don" <DMack(at)tuthill.com> |
| Subject: | Wing root fairings |
Just ordered my finishing kit. What are the advantages of the Sam James
mods? Does anyone have pictures on the net?
Don Mack
RV-6A
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
>I have Sam James wing root fairings, but I'm not sure how they
>are to be attached to the wing/fuselage.
I LIKE them. It still took me several days to match them to my fuselage/wing
(filling the small gap variations). I used screws and nutplates to attach.
This may seem obvious but do NOT drill into your fuel tank. I put nutplates
in the flange inboard of the tank with nothing on the leading edge, and on
the upper wing skins further aft. I bent up little flanges to fit the
fuselage under the airplane. They fit and look great.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flying (a lot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe P/S mounting |
<< Listers,
I'm mounting separate strobe power supplies in each wing. I can mount
them, with nutplates, on the spar web, or on either side of the end ribs.
What do people typically do?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI.
RV-6AQ, finishing up the wings.
>>
Chris:
You have the option of making the airframe very easy to service. I usually
tell folks to put the pwr supply on the front of the spar, behind the landing
lite opening, so that you can easily remove the thing when all the smoke is
used up.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe P/S mounting |
<< Listers,
I'm mounting separate strobe power supplies in each wing. I can mount
them, with nutplates, on the spar web, or on either side of the end ribs.
What do people typically do?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI.
RV-6AQ, finishing up the wings.
>>
Chris:
You have the option of making the airframe very easy to service. I usually
tell folks to put the pwr supply on the front of the spar, behind the landing
lite opening, so that you can easily remove the thing when all the smoke is
used up.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabaniss" <bcabanis(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop?? |
Which wooden prop are you happy using on an RV-4, 0-320/160 HP??
(This a customer's plane that I'm finishing for him)
As you know Van won't recommend a prop..any happy stories out there??
How about a wooden prop for an RV-4 with a 0-320/150 horse engine (A
different airplane) (Mine)?? I'm using a pacesetter-200 now and find
that it's not enough prop..at 10K feet the engine will go beyond 3000
RPM at 200 MPH. More pitch please!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | S-type cowl and O-320 FAB revisited |
Listers,
I got some information concerning the FAB to scoop fit last week that
helped me get started; but, I have more questions since I'm having
problems deciding what part of the first three pages of the FAB
instructions are exclusive to the listed cowls or can be carried over to
the other cowls. Just to be sure, more questions:
1. I assume the constant speed cowl = "S" cowl in shape. Looking
at figure 3 on page 2 of my instructions, the distance from the spinner
ring down to the front of the scoop of a CS cowl is 12 5/8". I have
mine at about 12" right now and seem to be getting a good fit to the
cowl. Is the 12 5/8" for the CS cowls, even though it's in the middle
of the RV3/ RV4 instructions?
2. Figure 3 also shows the center line of the scoop 1" off center from
the center line of the cowl. My scoop lines up with the FAB VA-130B
fairly closely with the 1" offset. Does the 1" offset apply to all cowls?
3. Figure 4, same RV3/RV4 instructions section, shows that the FAB
should be 14 3/4" long for a -6. I guessed that's a good starting
point and cut mine to that length. Based upon questions 1 and 2
and this length, I have the FAB VA-130B (banjo) about 1/4" from the
scoop opening. Would it be a good idea to cut some more off to
give me some more breathing room for fit up?
These questions are based upon the current dimensions given. This
is my first trial fit and could be change, if you answers suggest it. It
does seem to fit well at this position. I guess the biggest concern is
the 1" offset. The scoop looks pretty good under there! :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bibb's Elquilibrium |
Richard:
Glad to hear you're alive and well, and that the RV might possibly fly
again one day. In regard to equilibrium, you now have that much maligned
state of being where your number of landings no longer equal your number of
take-offs. The most simple way to resolve this is to board an airplane
already in flight -- I'd recommend a -6 with a sliding canopy as the
receiving aircraft. Even if you leave the numbers skewed, that's okay, as
usually it's terminal when somebody messes with the balance. GLAD YOU'RE
STILL ABOARD and we're all glad you're safe.
// s //
Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
ICQ# 11770815
RV-6A (empennage)
N188FW (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | gear leg fairing, and some crass commercialism |
<< Does anyone know if you can buy the gear leg fairing for a rv-4...or do I
have to make it myself? The fairing I am talking about is the one at the
top of the gear leg that joins the fuselage.
John C. Anderson >>
John:
I want to have these made up one day, for sale to fellow RVers. Right now
you'll have to do this yourself, or hire it done.
If you combine the various gear leg fairings available, with the different
engine mounts, and the many wheel fairings, you will find the a one-size-
fitzall fairing is not possible. As you know, a small production run of any
doo-hinky is expensive. I'll probably have intersection fairings made up to
fit my gear leg fairings combined with the tall gear (for the -4). The -6 is
easier (only one engine mount so far), but there are many different wheelpants
available for that airframe too. I can't see a winning solution here!!
Now, if you want to change to 1-pc gear leg fairings at some point, the upper
and lower intersection fairings you are about to make to fit the 2-pc fairings
won't fit the new (larger chord) gear leg covers. So: If you think you might
want to use the 1-pc GLF, do it now. Crass commercialism warning!! It just so
happens I sell 'em, as does Cleaveland Tool. These units fit all models of
RVs, and one fellow iseven trying one on his -6A nose strut. I hope to hear
about that install soon.
Are they tough enough to survive? Ask Mr Sean Tucker- he has a set on his
Challenger biplane. I've been using mine (on a Rocket) for 150 hrs or so, from
a sod (or dirt) field. No problems.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ROBERT JENSEN" <jranch(at)thegrid.net> |
Hi,
My husband has an RV - 4 for sale and it is about 95 to 97% done. His work
phone # is (209)544-0402, Fax (209)5440429, Home (209)878-3634. He is at
work right now and I happened to be reading the email and saw your request.
Deb Sanborn-Jensen
----------
> From: Steve D Nichols <steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: re-4 kit
> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 5:26 AM
>
Nichols"
>
> WITH ALL OF THE EXCITEMENT OF THE RV-8 AND 8A I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE
HAS
> OR KNOWS ANYONE WHO HAS AN RV-4 PROJECT FOR SALE ? ADVISED BY A FRIEND TO
> MAKE THIS POST BEFORE I ORDER THE EMP. KIT JUST TO SEE WHAT HAPPENS.
> PLEASE RESPOND TO ME DIRECTLY AT www.steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com
>
> THANKS FOR THE HELP
> STEVE NICHOLS (READY TO ORDER -4)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robin.y.wessel(at)exgate.tek.com |
| Subject: | Survey results are in |
I could not wait, so I compiled the results and posted the data for you to
read. My apologies to those who have filled out the survey in the last 6
hours. I will include all future results in an update.
Check it out at:
<http://robin.getbiz.net/survey1.htm>
if you have not filled out the survey please do so at:
<http://robin.getbiz.net/survey.htm>
please do not fill out the survey again if already had.
I plan on making another survey in the near future focusing on flying and
building. Let me know if you found this survey useful. Another suggestions
are appreciated (I am unfortunately not a stats major!).
Thanks,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A wing
Ann Arbor, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HVLP conversion guns |
Chris--
Do they even have complaigning nieghbors in New Zealand?????
How far out do you have to get to have complete freedom?????
dave---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Replay on RV-4 |
waiiiittttt!!!!!
sounds like my wife, don't listen to her, my plane is not for sale !!!! (
Just Kidding )
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Fwd side skins- 6A |
I am fitting the F670 fwd side skins.
1- Does the curved aft end go under the center bottom skins (676/677)?
2- do I drill the fwd hinge holes now. If I don't now , how will I deburr
& demple after they are on? I am planning on back drilling the henge &
spacer later.
3- Want to run a line (for wires) thru the 604,605, & 606. What type if
tubing do youall recommend?
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy frame |
Hi,
The quality control on the weldments for the canopy seems to be weak. I read of
other canopy frame mis-manufacture and of unsymmetrical roll bars. Cut, weld,
bend etc.
The Quick Build can be built in 500 hours but it takes 500 more to do the
canopy. :-)
My canopy fit just great. So I unclecoed and polished edges, now it doesn't fit
well anymore!!%%##??!!
I used a Nicholson plastics and laminates file which creates a smoother edge
than 100 grit in much less time. I suppose a power sander would be best but I
seem to enjoy filing. Weird huh?
hal
> Hi! I about to install the canopy frame when I discoverd that the left
> rear tube
> in the canopy frame is one inch longer than the right.
> I have a nice curv on the right side but not on the left.
> Do someone on the list have the same experience or have the measurment
> for the length of the tubes between the weldments?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Survey results are in |
robin.y.wessel(at)exgate.tek.com wrote:
>
>
> I could not wait, so I compiled the results and posted the data for you to
> read. My apologies to those who have filled out the survey in the last 6
> hours. I will include all future results in an update.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin Wessel
> RV-6A wing
> Ann Arbor, MI
>
Nice job Robin!
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd side skins- 6A |
donspawn(at)Juno.com wrote:
>
>
> I am fitting the F670 fwd side skins.
>
> 1- Does the curved aft end go under the center bottom skins (676/677)?
>
> 2- do I drill the fwd hinge holes now. If I don't now , how will I deburr
> & demple after they are on? I am planning on back drilling the henge &
> spacer later.
>
> 3- Want to run a line (for wires) thru the 604,605, & 606. What type if
> tubing do youall recommend?
>
> Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
>
>
Don,
Check the Frank Justice notes if you haven't already.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Les,
Bingo+ACE- I guess I have to blame my poor writing skills. You are the only
one who understood my question. Let my try this one more time...the vents
that I was asking about are indeed the +ACQ-59.00 units in Van's new catalogue.
They are a small(?)round disk inside a circular structure. They mount flush
on the skin. When ventilation is needed, they simply open up out into the
slipstream. Looks to me like they would be very unlikely to leak in the
closed position. My main concern was how well they vented in the open
position. I'd love to hear from anybody who is using these. Sorry for any
confusion on my original post.
Joe Rex
RV-4 sweatin' like a pig
-----Original Message-----
From: Leslie B. Williams +ADw-lesliebwilliams+AEA-email.msn.com+AD4-
Date: Sunday, August 30, 1998 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: cabin vents
+ADw-lesliebwilliams+AEA-email.msn.com+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-I don't believe Joe was referring to the Wisperflow but rather to the
+AD4-Miniture Ventilator listed in the new catalog as CA LV-3 Ventilator +AEA-
+AD4AJA-59.00.
+AD4-
+AD4-Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA (Baffles +ACY- engine stuff)
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-Joe Rex,
+AD4APg-Do not order the vents from (Van's whisperflow). They are flimsy and need
+AD4APg-modification with pro seal so they don't leak. Aircraft Spruce has some
+AD4-nice
+AD4APg-ones
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
--
+AD4- +AHw- Visit the Matronics +ACY- RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
+AHw-
+AHw-
+ACI-rv-list-request+AEA-matronics.com+ACI- +AHw-
+AD4- +AHw- +ACY- put the word +ACIAWw-un+AF0-subscribe+ACI- in the +ACo-body+ACo-.
No other text or
subject. +AHw-
+AHw-
+AHw-
+AD4-
--
+AD4-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | riveting near raised rib stiffening areas |
| From: | chriskelhand(at)Juno.com (Kellie D Hand) |
I drilled the aileron bellcrank mounting angles to the 2 modified ribs
this weekend. The first one I did, I marked the rivet locations on both
ends of the 0.125 angles and drilled to the rib once they were located
properly. After looking at what I had done, I found that I put 2 of the
holes very close to the raised stiffening areas. They are close enough
on these 2 holes that the rivet machine head will not lay completely flat
on the rib web.
One is the second hole from the main spar and the other is on the other
0.125 angle right next to the rivet attaching the .063 angle to the .125
angle.
My question is, will driving a rivet so the shop or machine head is
partially on the raised curve bite into the aluminum and cause a problem
with stress concentration, or will the rivet deform enough to be ok?
And would it be better to put the machine head or the shop head on the
raised side?
I took the scrap that I cut out of this rib, put 4 holes in it in the
same type of position and squeezed rivets in them. 2 with the shop head
forming on the curve and the other 2 the other way. Looking at these,
they look fine except that the ones with the shop heads on the raised
part have machine heads that hang over a little on the other side where
the stiffening ring drops away from the rivet. It doesn't look like the
rivets are biting into the rib where it raises.
Based on this test, I am planning to just use these as is, but I'd like
to know if any of you think I shouldn't do this.
Thanks for your input.
Chris Hand
RV6A, wings
CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bibb's Elquilibrium |
landing in an open cockpit -6 wouild be a piece of cake compared to them
trees...
>
>Richard:
>
>Glad to hear you're alive and well, and that the RV might possibly fly
>again one day. In regard to equilibrium, you now have that much maligned
>state of being where your number of landings no longer equal your number of
>take-offs. The most simple way to resolve this is to board an airplane
>already in flight -- I'd recommend a -6 with a sliding canopy as the
>receiving aircraft. Even if you leave the numbers skewed, that's okay, as
>usually it's terminal when somebody messes with the balance. GLAD YOU'RE
>STILL ABOARD and we're all glad you're safe.
>// s //
>Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
>sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
>ICQ# 11770815
>RV-6A (empennage)
>N188FW (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
Richard E. Bibb Direct: 703-245-4505
Vice President, Federal Operations Main: 703-245-4544
Fore Systems Federal, Inc. FAX: 703-245-4500
1595 Spring Hill Road Pager: 800-719-1246
5th Floor
Vienna, VA 22182
We're from Pittsburgh, we make networks that last.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
FWIW, I believe these are the ones Larry Vetterman is making. I saw them
at the Minnesota Wing gathering this summer, and they are very pretty
looking -- beautifully machined. Larry insists that they bring in tons of
air, which seems pretty believable since they stick out an inch or more
into the slipstream.
Anybody got them into a plane yet?
>
>Les,
>
>Bingo+ACE- I guess I have to blame my poor writing skills. You are the only
>one who understood my question. Let my try this one more time...the vents
>that I was asking about are indeed the +ACQ-59.00 units in Van's new
catalogue.
>They are a small(?)round disk inside a circular structure. They mount flush
>on the skin. When ventilation is needed, they simply open up out into the
>slipstream. Looks to me like they would be very unlikely to leak in the
>closed position. My main concern was how well they vented in the open
>position. I'd love to hear from anybody who is using these. Sorry for any
>confusion on my original post.
>
>Joe Rex
Don Hyde
Quincy, IL
6A, Building! VS done,
Working on rudder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Bibb's Elquilibrium |
Now c'mon fella's
Are you trying to tell me you never bounced on landing - In my early
day's my landings always outnumbered my takeoffs!! :-)
BTW any landing you can walk away from is a good one.
Good luck on the recovery of your pride and joy Richard.
Cheers
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Bibb [mailto:rbibb(at)fore.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bibb's Elquilibrium
landing in an open cockpit -6 wouild be a piece of cake compared to them
trees...
>
>Richard:
>
>Glad to hear you're alive and well, and that the RV might possibly fly
>again one day. In regard to equilibrium, you now have that much
maligned
>state of being where your number of landings no longer equal your
number of
>take-offs. The most simple way to resolve this is to board an airplane
>already in flight -- I'd recommend a -6 with a sliding canopy as the
>receiving aircraft. Even if you leave the numbers skewed, that's okay,
as
>usually it's terminal when somebody messes with the balance. GLAD
YOU'RE
>STILL ABOARD and we're all glad you're safe.
>// s //
>Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
>sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
>ICQ# 11770815
>RV-6A (empennage)
>N188FW (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
Richard E. Bibb Direct: 703-245-4505
Vice President, Federal Operations Main: 703-245-4544
Fore Systems Federal, Inc. FAX: 703-245-4500
1595 Spring Hill Road Pager: 800-719-1246
5th Floor
Vienna, VA 22182
We're from Pittsburgh, we make networks that last.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
A question for Bob Nuckolls that may be of interest to RVers.
On the 6A that I'm helping with, belonging to Charlie Tyrrel of Gillette,
WY, we're going to use toggle switches for the mags as opposed to a keyed
mag switch. The left toggle will be a three position: off, left mag on,
spring loaded to start. The right mag will be off and right mag on, a two
postion switch. I assume that the right mag switch will be off during the
starting procedure. We'll be using the Laser ignition. Will this toggle
switch arrangement work as described with the Laser?
Also, diodes are recommended on the battery and starter relays, I think to
help protect keyed, magneto switches. Van's has these for sale in the
catalog and I have installed these on my six. Are these diodes required
when using toggle switches for the mags? Bob, do you or any listers have a
source for the three postion: off-on-spring loaded on toggle switches. We
intend to use this type of switch for the left mag and also on the fuel
boost pump with the spring loaded-on postion being used to open the primer
relay.
Thanks,
Bob Skinner RV-6 438 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe P/S mounting |
I put mine on the spar web.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm mounting separate strobe power supplies in each wing. I can mount
>them, with nutplates, on the spar web, or on either side of the end ribs.
>What do people typically do?
>
>Regards,
>
>Chris Good,
>West Bend, WI.
>RV-6AQ, finishing up the wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sneadksu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | need some advice. |
Hey, I know this is only an aviation list for RV builders/fliers but I REALLY
need some advice on something else. (it does have to do with aviation
however). Are anyone of you an opthamologist? If so would you PLEASE write
me at 'das1252(at)ksu.edu' .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: riveting near raised rib stiffening areas |
In a message dated 8/31/98 9:09:32 Central Daylight Time,
chriskelhand(at)Juno.com writes:
<< They are close enough on these 2 holes that the rivet machine head will not
lay completely flat on the rib web. >>
Check your AC 43.13 1A & 2A, to see what it says about riveting that close to
a bend radius. All rivet heads should lay flat.
Regards
Wendell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Allen <fliier(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Hand cranking a fly cutter |
A little bit of trivia that might help out some day.
I was cutting instrument holes with a fly cutter over the weekend and discovered
that 2 of the 2.25" holes were out of reach of my little tabletop drill press.
So, I clamped the panel to the workbench, drilled the 1/4" hole at the center of
where I wanted the instrument hole, put the fly cutter in the hole and started
turning by hand. It took about 10 minutes to cut the hole out of the .060
aluminum and the hole was actually quite clean.
It wasn't fun, but it was relatively quick. Don't forget to wear gloves. The
knuckle demon that lives in the fly cutter will try to get you even when there's
no motor turning :-)
John Allen
RV-6A Installing Systems and spending money
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd side skins- 6A |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>> I am fitting the F670 fwd side skins.
>>
>> 1- Does the curved aft end go under the center bottom skins
>(676/677)?
Most builders put them under. You want to try and have all skins lapping
aft for drag reduction, clean look, etc.
>>
>> 2- do I drill the fwd hinge holes now.
Yes, you drill and dimple but dont rivet, just leave in cleco's and you
can back drill through these holes later for the hinge.
BTW, don't worry if you cant dimple all of the holes on the firewall
flange. The stainless is soft which will allow you to dimple the
firewall flange through the dimples in the skin after removing the fuse.
from the jig.
>> 3- Want to run a line (for wires) thru the 604,605, & 606. What type
>if
>> tubing do youall recommend?
I don't use tubing, I use the plastic grommets that are supplied in the
kit.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
e
rivet with a gun and a bucking bar.
Be sure to put the manufactured head on the rib side and form the shop
head on the heavier angle material (it is better to always follow this
proceedure when ever possible).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Cockpit / interior paint - one answer among many |
After tormenting myself for several months over what color of light
gray I wanted, I finally decided to use just use Rustoleum Professional
High Performance Enamel - Light Machine Gray (7581). The gray is
the color I wanted, and you can't get any easier than grabbing a can and
shooting something. It touches up very easily too of course.
I went to my local auto paint shop this afternoon and had them color
match my battery box which I had already painted with the above. The
result:
Dupont ChromaOne (Single stage acrylic urethane) : 7881E
Dupont ChromaBase : 7881K
The ChromaOne should be more durable and flows out better than
the Enamel. ChromaBase is usually a two-stage product that gets
a clear coat on top, but I use it on the instrument panel as is so that
it stays flat for non-glare.
Hope this helps someone.
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | My "Great" Titanium "Ti-downs", and the RV-List |
Greetings RViators,
I'm Randy Simpson, owner of Airtime Mfg., maker of the Titanium "Ti-downs"
that many RV owners/builders already have purchased. I've been lurking on
this list since April, and even though I'm not building an RV (yet), I've
learned alot about what's involved in building a trick plane like the RV's
and (more importantly to me at this time) is hearing about how the RV's fly,
and the enjoyment the RV pilots experience (Corsair comes to mind here).
First of all, ALL my dealings with my RV-List customers have been a
pleasure. Since I started selling the Ti-downs via the internet in April,
RV-Listers have been my only customers, as I had trouble keeping up with the
RV orders alone. I've had a policy that if I had the Ti-downs in stock, I'd
send them out immediately, and wait for the check to come in (at least till
I got burned). Nearly all my friends and family thought I was NUTS to be so
trusting. I'm happy to report that EVERY set I've shipped, the checks came
in as promised. KUDOS to you!
It seems that if you've got a "better mousetrap", the world will beat a
path to your mailbox if you have a website also...
Of all the sets of Ti-downs I've sold (havn't tallied up how many lately,
but probably 50-60 sets), none have been returned because they bent, or
broke. That's a good sign. I've been really testing them this summer, as
I've been doing alot of air-camping, using the Ti-downs whenever I can (even
if there are regular airport tie-downs already there). I've put 110 hours on
my Carrera Ultralight since the last week of May of this year (it's just:
work (fly), work (fly), work (fly).
I'm all caught up with my backorders now, and have some sets in stock,
ready for immediately delivery. My son David and I spent the WHOLE weekend
in our shop "pounding out Ti-downs", despite the perfect flying weather.
We're trying to earn enough money for his tuition at a private school. It's
really great to be working side by side with my 14 yr old son, who will most
likely fly solo for the first time at the Alvord Desert (in SE Oregon)
fly-in a couple of weeks from now (weather permitting, of course).
For those of you RV flyers that already have bought and used the Ti-downs,
I'd like to hear from you if you have anything intresting to report about
the Ti-downs (good or bad). You guys that used the Ti-downs at Oshkosh,
how'd they work there? Please reply to me off list, or on list if you think
other Listers could benefit from your experience.
I'm gonna donate a set (or "kit") to Matt Dralle as "thanks" for giving us
this excellent List. Thank you Matt, I appreciate it...
Also, Sam Buchanan will have a set soon for his torture test/evaluation.
Look for his report in his RV Journal soon...
Thanks for your time,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
Current Ultralight Pilot
Future RV Owner/Pilot (I'm sure)
Brownsville, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Torque for flare fittings ? |
I have not seen any guidance on torque values for flare fittings such as those
used in the fuel system of the RV. Also, I feel like I should somehow safety
the flare nut which holds the flop tube to the tank fitting.
Do any of you have ideas on this?
Mark McGee
RV4, Left Fuel Tank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop?? |
I had very good luck with a prop from Props Inc. It ran great
"right out of the box". Great performance, all around. I had to
go round and round with Sterba to get a prop that would work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd side skins- 6A |
The curved aft end goes OVER the center bottom skins. The rest I don't
know. I left the hinge(s) undrilled thinking that I should have the
cowl on hand before drilling. I hope to finesse the issue of dimpling
or countersinking the holes later. Probably a mistake, but I hope not.
Steve Soule
RV-6A fuselage floors
-----Original Message-----
1- Does the curved aft end go under the center bottom
skins (676/677)?
2- do I drill the fwd hinge holes now. If I don't now ,
how will I deburr
& demple after they are on? I am planning on back
drilling the henge &
spacer later.
3- Want to run a line (for wires) thru the 604,605, &
606. What type if
tubing do youall recommend?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietig(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Conical engine mounts |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
> Chuck,
> You've got an RV-3 with an AIO-360 engine in it! Let me ask you this, do
> wear a "G" suit when you fly it? And does it "take off" or do you "LAUNCH"
> it? Enquiring minds want to know! Al
>
Al, I'd like to say yes to your "enquiring mind," but to truth of the matter lies
in the fact that the conical mounts are needed for my brothers RV-4. My THREE has
an "improved" IO-320 in it. I've thought about building an RV-3 with an IO-360
angle valve next, but I'll wait awhile until Van comes out with a new wing for
the
THREE. Life is good, so many choices and things to do!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DENNIS HART <dennishart(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: riveting near raised rib stiffening areas |
>
>
>
>
>
>My question is, will driving a rivet so the shop or machine head is
>partially on the raised curve bite into the aluminum and cause a problem
>with stress concentration, or will the rivet deform enough to be ok?
>And would it be better to put the machine head or the shop head on the
>raised side?
>
>Chris-
I am not a structural engineer but I have done a fair amount of sheet
metal repairs at Delta following our engineers guidlines.
We come across this situation of being into the radius of a bend once in
a while. A fastener installed that was at all into the radius or not flat
would not be acceptable. Because of the stress concentration you mentioned.
We make a "radius block". A small piece of 2024 alum at least .032 thick
and form a matching radius on one edge if it. Then we put sealer between
the two and rivet it as normal. With the machine head on the radius block
side so it will stay in place as you rivet.
Hope it helps
> Dennis Hart (Tail in the mail)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Positech Oil Coolers |
I need to purchase an oil cooler for my 0-360. Does anyone know anything about
the Positech Oil Cooler listed in Vans new catalog @ $167.00? And how these
compare to the Stewart Warner @ $241.00? Or any other suppliers you have
found to be good. Thanks.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
Installing Seats and fitting wings
Oregon
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd side skins- 6A |
In light of Scott McD's posting, I have rethought this one. I need to
go home and look at how I did my skins. I might have remembered it
wrong.
Don't take my advice to the bank.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 8:24 AM
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fwd side skins- 6A
The curved aft end goes OVER the center bottom skins.
The rest I don't
know. I left the hinge(s) undrilled thinking that I
should have the
cowl on hand before drilling. I hope to finesse the
issue of dimpling
or countersinking the holes later. Probably a mistake,
but I hope not.
Steve Soule
RV-6A fuselage floors
1- Does the curved aft end go under the
center bottom
skins (676/677)?
2- do I drill the fwd hinge holes now.
If I don't now ,
how will I deburr
& demple after they are on? I am
planning on back
drilling the henge &
spacer later.
3- Want to run a line (for wires) thru
the 604,605, &
606. What type if
tubing do youall recommend?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Conical engine mounts |
Chuck: I have 3 with a 0-320,Ellison carb.cross-over and pretty clean...Have
been trying out different props...Now have Amar-Demuth 68x88..Think its a
little under-pitched..Great climb!!! 2800 fpm at 2400/95mph but only 195 at
2700 level...Will go over 3000 if I let it!!! Have new prop coming thats
being cut to hold 2700 full throttle...0-320 is 160...What prop are you
using???? Jim Brown,Matawan,NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Request for WWW links about flight testing |
Listers,
Now that I am on the road again, I am working on my WWW page instead of
building the RV-8.
I put a small section dedicated to information on flight testing on my RV
Links page <http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html>.
If anyone knows about any other WWW links with information useful about
flight testing amateur built aircraft, please send them direct to me, not
the list. I will add them to my links page.
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot stuck in Wichita instead of home working
Transport Canada on the RV :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Torque for flare fittings ? |
<< I have not seen any guidance on torque values for flare fittings such as
those
used in the fuel system of the RV.>>
I was always taught that standard practice is to tighten the nut until it you
feel it "seat" and then tighten one more "flat" of rotation on the hex nut.
<< Also, I feel like I should somehow safety
the flare nut which holds the flop tube to the tank fitting. >>
I used Proseal on the threads.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Positech Oil Coolers |
<< I need to purchase an oil cooler for my 0-360. Does anyone know anything
about
the Positech Oil Cooler listed in Vans new catalog @ $167.00? And how these
compare to the Stewart Warner @ $241.00? Or any other suppliers you have
found to be good. Thanks.
On the Rockets, we use a 19 row Setrab cooler bought from TMR in Orange, CA
(714-771-1348- talk to Mike). I have heard that there is a supplier in the
northwest also. 9, 12, and 16 row models are available, all priced around
$70US. Users report success (good cooling) with these units, and no
failures/leaks.
Mark Goldberg's RV-8 has a 16 row unit installed on the firewall, with a 3"
hose connecting the cooler to the baffling. This particular installation
doesn't seem to cool as well as I had thought it would- I have a feeling that
the "cone" used to attach the hose to the cooler has too steep of a divergent
angle. Mark talked about changing to a 19 row, but I had asked him to change
the cone angle first. Stay tuned for updates on this squawk.
Check six!
Mark
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
Installing Seats and fitting wings
Oregon
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque for flare fittings ? |
FMark40(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have not seen any guidance on torque values for flare fittings such as those
> used in the fuel system of the RV. Also, I feel like I should somehow safety
> the flare nut which holds the flop tube to the tank fitting.
>
> Do any of you have ideas on this?
>
> Mark McGee
> RV4, Left Fuel Tank
The torque values can be found in the Standard Aircraft Handbook.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
16 row models are available, all priced around
$70US. Users report success (good cooling) with these units, and no
failures/leaks.
Mark Goldberg's RV-8 has a 16 row unit installed on the firewall, with a 3"
hose connecting the cooler to the baffling. This particular installation
doesn't seem to cool as well as I had thought it would- I have a feeling that
the "cone" used to attach the hose to the cooler has too steep of a divergent
angle. Mark talked about changing to a 19 row, but I had asked him to change
the cone angle first. Stay tuned for updates on this squawk.
Check six!
Mark
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
Installing Seats and fitting wings
Oregon
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit / interior paint - one answer among many |
Be careful with Rustoleum. I used it for some of my steel parts, and it turns out
that it won't stick well to anything else but bare metal or more Rustoleum, and
nothing else likes to stick to it. The Sherwin Williams guy told me that it had
something to do with a type of oil in the Rustoleum. I thought he said "fish oil",
but I could be wrong. Anyway, you'll want to do some tests before you spray it
with any other products.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Mitch Faatz wrote:
>
> After tormenting myself for several months over what color of light
> gray I wanted, I finally decided to use just use Rustoleum Professional
> High Performance Enamel - Light Machine Gray (7581). The gray is
> the color I wanted, and you can't get any easier than grabbing a can and
> shooting something. It touches up very easily too of course.
>
> I went to my local auto paint shop this afternoon and had them color
> match my battery box which I had already painted with the above. The
> result:
>
> Dupont ChromaOne (Single stage acrylic urethane) : 7881E
> Dupont ChromaBase : 7881K
>
> The ChromaOne should be more durable and flows out better than
> the Enamel. ChromaBase is usually a two-stage product that gets
> a clear coat on top, but I use it on the instrument panel as is so that
> it stays flat for non-glare.
>
> Hope this helps someone.
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frankzip(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bibb's Elquilibrium |
Just had to add this to the post on landings,.Everyone knows what a good
landing is, any one that you can walk away from. What a lot of people don't
know is what an EXCELLENT LANDING is, one in which the aircraft can be reused
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
Anyone out there in RV land have a complete HPLV spray unit they have
used and are interested in selling? If so, please contact me off line
at WD_Thomas(at)Earthlink.Net. Thanks. Bill Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Costello" <bcostello(at)mbsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit / interior paint - one answer among many |
>>> Moe Colontonio 06/02 10:48 AM >>>
Be careful with Rustoleum. The Sherwin Williams guy told me that it had
something to do with a type of oil in the Rustoleum. I thought he said "fish oil",
Yep, it is definitely fish oil. Their corp hdqtrs in Chgo suburb has a whaling
or some kind of fishing scene in the lobby.
Bill Costello
RV6 - still on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Costello" <bcostello(at)mbsi.net> |
| Subject: | Overlapping metal sheets |
Hi Folks,
For those of you who are really gung-ho about drag reduction, there was
a strong case made a while back that overlapping sheets from the back
toward the front of the plane actually REDUCED drag compared to the
opposite.
I can picture the air curling over a 'front-to-back' lap joint and then burbling
into separation from the skin. I guess in the same vein, the air that bumps
into a 'back-to-front' lap joint rises over the rear skin and tends to stick with
it.
Anybody have any wind tunnel studies?
Bill Costello
RV6 - on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Bus, contactor and ground locations |
Bob Nuckolls,
In a recent thread on bus location, you stated, "If designing in
accessibility means longer wires, more weight, or more hours of effort to
install, I think I'd opt for system efficiency over convenience." You
never said where you would put the main and essential bus' in a 6A.
I am designing a two battery (maybe two alternator system). I looked
through the archives about contactor location. This is what I gleaned.
Main battery, alternate battery and crossfeed contactors ...close to the
battery on the inside of the firewall.
Starter contactor...on the engine side of the firewall (any preferred
distance from the battery contactor?) max. 6" from 80 amp fuse to starter
contactor.
Main battery ground...#2 welding cable to the ground bus located on the
inside of the firewall (high up to minimize length of wire from panel
instruments) then #2 cable to the engine crankcase (this is not how it is
drawn in your schematics which show the battery ground going to the
crankcase then to the ground bus)
Alternate battery ground...you show it going to the firewall. Can I put it
on the ground bus or should it be in a separate location.
Waiting for Rev 8.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
The purpose of the diodes across the starter and master relay coils is
to "short out" the induced voltage that results from the collapse of the
magnetic field when the energizing current is removed. The rate of fall
is fairly high, so the induced voltage is great enough that it can cause
shorts within the coils themselves. Depending upon how relay contacts
are connected (or not) some protection of the contacts might also be
involved.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Request for WWW links about flight testing |
Kevin,
you might find this link interesting for your training/flight testing links:
>>>> http://www.eurofly.co.uk/european/flyschool/3.htm <<<<
AL
>
>Listers,
>
>Now that I am on the road again, I am working on my WWW page instead of
>building the RV-8.
>
>I put a small section dedicated to information on flight testing on my RV
>Links page <http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html>.
>
>If anyone knows about any other WWW links with information useful about
>flight testing amateur built aircraft, please send them direct to me, not
>the list. I will add them to my links page.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca
>Engineering Test Pilot stuck in Wichita instead of home working
>Transport Canada on the RV :-(
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Traveling to Washington state |
Spokane area 'Listers,
I will be traveling to Fairchild AFB Washington 14 Sep to 18 Sep. I would
love to look at RV projects and flying aircraft in the area. Please respond
off-list.
Thanks,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST fabricating inlet duct for forward-facing injector unit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <wknight(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Builder's Help Needed on Long Island, NY |
Am having an RV-6's chin scoop replaced (after an induction fire) in
Easthampton, LI, NY and need builder's assistance with fabricating plenum on
intake. Is there anyone on LI who'd like to make a few $$$ and help? Please
reply off list to airshows1(at)msn.com
Thanks,
Bill Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop?? |
<< How about a wooden prop for an RV-4 with a 0-320/150 horse engine (A
different airplane) (Mine)?? I'm using a pacesetter-200 now and find
that it's not enough prop..at 10K feet the engine will go beyond 3000
RPM at 200 MPH. More pitch please!! >>
Try giving Aymar Demuth a call. They are listed under props in the
classified section of the sport aviation magazine. He is a little more
expensive, but his props are real performers and usually come out of the box
right the first time. I run one of his props as well as many others in the
area and I havent heard anyone complain around here.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SHOFFIUS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6A,0320-E2D,AYMAR DEMUTH PROP FOR SALE |
Will sell RV6A partially finished, one wing almost done, tail feathers done,
fusealage not started. Phil. Spar. 0320-E2D 538 TTSN, no finishing kit, Aymar
Demuth prop.
$16,000 for all, will not separate.
E Mail shoffius(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Weller <midibu(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Archives, how to download |
Hello all,
I would like to download the archive and the search engine that I had
before my C: drive was reformatted.
How do I do that?
Thanks,
Mike Weller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Rustoleum Primer |
>I have watched the primer debates on the RV-List. I noticed you
mention the
>use of Rustoleum paints a couple of times and I am courious about your
>feels/ results. Most people seem to stick with the aircraft or auto
primers
>which costs about twice as much as the Rustoleum. I am no expert on
the
>chemistry of paint, but all that I am looking for at this time is a
>moisture / corrosion barrier for the internal structures of my RV-8.
>I have found Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer at the local Home Depot
>and it appears that it might work. As far as the exterior of the
aircraft
>I will probably go with the aircraft primer and topcoats.
David, I hope you don't mind if I include the list on my response:
Well, I'm using it only for the interior, and then only in places I feel
aren't going to be touched too much. Top rails, seats, most of the
baggage compartment, etc. are all going to be shot with Dupont ChromaOne
for durability and better finish. But for small things that I just want
to shoot quick and mount might get the Rustoleum. It's very handy,
looks pretty good, is the "right" color gray (for me), and is relatively
cheap. The quart of ChromaOne and ChromaBase were $90!!
I haven't shot the ChromaOne in areas that already have some Rustoleum
yet. I'll write a reminder to send another status report on this in a
few months or a year after flying to report how they hold up and
interact with each other.
I'm using Veriprime for most of the project, the QB had the Sherwin
Williams wash primer, and I sometimes use rustoleum primer or Norton's
(?) on steel parts (or Veriprime if I have a batch mixed up). I suppose
if I was just starting my project I might research the epoxy primer
since many people think they are better if not top-coated.
For the exterior, I'm having it professionally done so I'll let him use
whatever he is most experienced with for primer and paint.
Mitchell Faatz N727MF (reserved) RV-6AQME
San Jose, CA Finishing Kit...
President/Newsletter Editor Bay Area RVators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
How much do wood props cost? and what are normal lead times?
The wood prop makers don't seem to have web pages and I know I could
call them but I bet a lot of RVer's already know this.
I'm nearing decision time on a prop and need to know if the Sensenich
metal is worth the price.
thanks for any info.
Wayne (fumbling with the cowl) Bonesteel
RV-4 O-320 150HP
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Michael,
I would appreciate receiving the information you receive on the AOA. My son
talked to them at OSHKOSH. He was concerned about the reliability of the
design with the rather sofisticated electronics. I talked to LRI, (Mr.
Huntington's son I believe.) I have always been impressed with this unit.
Would sure like to hear personal experiences on actual usage with any of these
units
In addiition, there is another one called the RiteAngle II.
Here's a couple of web pages:
http://www.liftreserve.com for the LRI
http://members.aol.com/elbie/riteangle/ra2.htm for the Riteangle
Catch ya later.
Wally Hunt
RV-4, instruments, canopy, engine and paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Overlapping metal sheets |
This is outlined fairly well in Horner's Book "Fluid Dynamic Drag". This
does not seem to meet the common sense approach to aerodynamics, but Horner
did the wind tunnel testing to determine the Cd of the various types of
joints.
If you do overlap the rear skins you still need to bevel the rear skin to get
the best drag reduction.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
<< Hi Folks,
For those of you who are really gung-ho about drag reduction, there was
a strong case made a while back that overlapping sheets from the back
toward the front of the plane actually REDUCED drag compared to the
opposite.
I can picture the air curling over a 'front-to-back' lap joint and then
burbling
into separation from the skin. I guess in the same vein, the air that bumps
into a 'back-to-front' lap joint rises over the rear skin and tends to stick
with
it.
Anybody have any wind tunnel studies?
Bill Costello
RV6 - on wings
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nick Nafsinger <n.nafsinger(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | SE Oregon Alvord Fly-in/campout |
Hello, all... I would like to extend an invitation to all interested to come
to the Alvord Desert Fly-in / Campout. The fly-in is an annual event in the
SE Oregon area, semi-sponsored by the Top Fun Flyers in Boise, ID.
When: 18-21 September.....
Where: Alvord Dry lake (big one! 6 by 10 miles) South East Oregon..
42'32.08 N 118'27.18 W
Why? Great people... usually about 50-60people, 20-25 airplanes.
Hotsprings right on the edge of the lake bed, GREAT for soaking after a long
day of relaxing... :) Majestic Steens Mountains just north, REALLY gorgeous
from about 10,000!
Events: Campfire gathering on Sat. night (bunch of pilots sit around and
talk about flyin and such.. can you believe it!), Free breakfast (pay by
donation ONLY) Sunday morning prepared by the TFF.
Overall it's a really fun event for all. If any of you are interested
contact me off-list and I can give you all the details. Also, bribe time..
if anyone needs extra fuel, food, or other.. I would be willing to provide
for a flight or two in an RV (come on guys, its been 3 years.. please?
Haha).
Cheers,
Nick Nafsinger n.nafsinger(at)mci2000.com
RV-8, planning stages....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Double, double toil and trouble, bent frame and stretched bubble! |
Hi all,
I took my 6A QB sliding canopy bubble off to polish edges etc. Set it with care
on the fuselage just ahead of the vertical stab. On top of an old but soft
comforter. When I reattach it, the holes don't line up! It is just as if the
bubble has gotten longer. I began by clecoing the center rail - perfect fit.
Then I did the same to the rear bow. When I moved to the front, the holes all
overhung the front frame bow! The stuff is alive!!
My side skirts top holes - where screws go thru the plexi - are off
progressively more starting from the back.
I did decide that pop rivets ( I am not prejudiced against them) suck for this
application. So, I drilled clear thru the center rail and the rear bow for #6
screws and nuts. The front bow, I tapped for the same. Surely the frame didn't
shrink.
When I force the fit at the front bow, the sides stick way out.
I'm not making this up.
I guess I have to re-drill the plexi at the front bow.
It seemed to go so well I thought I might re-write the slider instructions but
now I believe it would be a tale told by an idiot, full of sound and fury but
signifying nothing.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Fitting canopy rear skirts
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabaniss" <bcabanis(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop?? |
>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Tue Sep 1 05:23:25 1998
>Received: (from daemon@localhost)
(PDT)
>Message-ID: <35EBE66F.E26BECAC(at)datasync.com>
>Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 07:19:59 -0500
>From: MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop??
>References: <19980831182609.7499.qmail(at)hotmail.com>
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Thanks Michael..I'll pass this along to the owner
Bob
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Positech Oil Coolers |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>I need to purchase an oil cooler for my 0-360. Does anyone know
>anything about
>the Positech Oil Cooler listed in Vans new catalog @ $167.00? And how
>these
>compare to the Stewart Warner @ $241.00? Or any other suppliers you
>have
>found to be good. Thanks.
>
>Von Alexander
>
Von,
I have had a look at the new cooler, but we haven't used one our selves
yet.
The biggest difference that I can see visually that it is heavier than
the Harrison/Stewart Warner coolers are.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: riveting near raised rib stiffening areas |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
writes:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>My question is, will driving a rivet so the shop or machine head is
>>partially on the raised curve bite into the aluminum and cause a
>problem
>>with stress concentration, or will the rivet deform enough to be ok?
>>And would it be better to put the machine head or the shop head on
>the
>>raised side?
>>
>>Chris-
> I am not a structural engineer but I have done a fair amount of sheet
>metal repairs at Delta following our engineers guidlines.
> We come across this situation of being into the radius of a bend
>once in
>a while. A fastener installed that was at all into the radius or not
>flat
>would not be acceptable. Because of the stress concentration you
>mentioned.
> We make a "radius block". A small piece of 2024 alum at least .032
>thick
>and form a matching radius on one edge if it. Then we put sealer
>between
>the two and rivet it as normal. With the machine head on the radius
>block
>side so it will stay in place as you rivet.
>
> Hope it helps
>> Dennis Hart (Tail in the mail)
>>
>>
Dennis is right. This would be the proper thing to do on an inside
radius of an angle, etc, but the problem that Chris encountered is
different the radius bump that he was dealing with is from a stiffener
bead formed in the rib (if I understood him correctly) which means their
is a hollow space underneath. It would be acceptable to hammer the bead
down flat or just drive a rivet on it which will pull it down flush in
the process.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabaniss" <bcabanis(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop?? |
>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Tue Sep 1 13:52:33 1998
>Received: (from daemon@localhost)
(PDT)
>From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
>Message-ID:
>Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 15:32:59 EDT
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop??
>Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
><
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Overlapping metal sheets |
>I can picture the air curling over a 'front-to-back' lap joint and then
burbling
into separation from the skin. I guess in the same vein, the air that
bumps
into a 'back-to-front' lap joint rises over the rear skin and tends to
stick with it.<
This is exactly correct but somehow it just doesn't look right so you
hardly ever see it done. I doubt that it makes a measurable difference in
our 200 MPH machines since we only have a couple joints on the fuselage.
The wings are butt joints and avoid the question.
Does using a single piece wing skin adversly effect low speed handling
since it eliminates the "stall fence" effect of the two piece skins? Just
Kidding!!! I don't want to start a long discussion about something that
we can't measure.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
wing skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop?? |
> How about a wooden prop for an RV-4 with a 0-320/150 horse engine
Hi Bob;
I just love my Sensenich wood prop. Great performance in a -4 with
150hp.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
250 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Double, double toil and trouble, bent frame and stretched |
bubble!
Hal, you didn't say how much distance the holes are off. Is the ambient
temperature approximately what is was when you dirilled it up? I do know
that the plexi will expand and contract quite a bit, particularly when it
isn't fastened down. Did you try clecoing it up in approximately the same
order in which it was drilled? The frame also may be in a different,
relaxed position than when it is all clecoed up. I wouldn't get in a hurry
to start redrilling until the jury from this list is in. Good luck!
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>I took my 6A QB sliding canopy bubble off to polish edges etc. Set it with
care on the fuselage just ahead of the vertical stab. On top of an old but
soft comforter. When I reattach it, the holes don't line up! It is just as
if the
>bubble has gotten longer. I began by clecoing the center rail - perfect
fit.
>Then I did the same to the rear bow. When I moved to the front, the holes
all overhung the front frame bow! The stuff is alive!!
>My side skirts top holes - where screws go thru the plexi - are off
>progressively more starting from the back.
>I did decide that pop rivets ( I am not prejudiced against them) suck for
this
application. So, I drilled clear thru the center rail and the rear bow for
#6
>screws and nuts. The front bow, I tapped for the same. Surely the frame
didn't shrink. When I force the fit at the front bow, the sides stick way
out.
>I'm not making this up.
>I guess I have to re-drill the plexi at the front bow.
>It seemed to go so well I thought I might re-write the slider instructions
but
>now I believe it would be a tale told by an idiot, full of sound and fury
but
>signifying nothing.
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Fitting canopy rear skirts
>halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Double, double toil and trouble, bent frame and stretched |
bubble!
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
> I took my 6A QB sliding canopy bubble off to polish edges etc. Set it with care
> on the fuselage just ahead of the vertical stab. On top of an old but soft
> comforter. When I reattach it, the holes don't line up!
What was the temparature when it fit and what is it now that it doesn't
fit?
In the canopy section in "18 years of the RV-ator" there is an article
mentioning a 3/8" difference from 10F to 90F.
I think if you start from the front and work your way back you can
probably make it fit.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Washington state |
Tom
Too bad. There are "gobs" of RV's in Western Washington. I am just south of
Arlington Airport, which I believe has nearly twenty five. Good luck in
Spokane. Hope you get to see some nice planes/projects.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Double, double toil and trouble,bent frame and stretched |
bubble!
Hal,
Did you have any spacers somewhere that you've forgotten? (I can't imagine
anyone doing that... oh, except for when I did it.)
Also, I had to cleco the center rail, then cleco alternately down the front
and aft bows. I could not make it work when I cleco'd the whole aft bow
first.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN
> I took my 6A QB sliding canopy bubble off to polish edges etc. Set it
with care
> on the fuselage just ahead of the vertical stab. On top of an old but
soft
> comforter. When I reattach it, the holes don't line up! It is just as
if the
> bubble has gotten longer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Setrab Oil Cooler |
Listers; I have access to a 16 row Setrab Oil Cooler, from TMR of Orange, Ca.
Has anyone used this particular 16 row unit in the O-360 with success? Or
should I try to get the 19 row? General info on this unit and your experiences
with it would be appreciated.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alivic(at)wport.com |
Is a 4" deep squeezer yoke needed in the construction of an RV.
Tony Livic RV8 tail
alivic(at)wport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
Hi all,
I went and bought a few tool odds and ends today to complement my slowly
growing set as I patiently wait for the Australia Peso to make a halfway
decent effort to get back to a respectable level so I can actually rush out
waving my arms like a lunatic and buy my kit.
Thought i'd share with everyone the knowledge that I had the privelage of
meeting a few of the folks from the RV list on the weekend and even got to
sit in a real live RV-4. *thanks Sam and Carol!!* (pitty i'd have to cut 6
inches out of my back to be able to close the canopy) The experience has
helped me really make a firm decision on going with the RV-8 .....or has
it? Thanks to someone who shall remain Ken Glover *dobbed in* who organised
a ride in a Tiger Moth for me *girlfriend now thinks I have been playing up
such was the grin* I have been scratching my head as to weather the RV is
really the way to go ;)
Tailwinds to all,
Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Di Meo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezer Yokes |
Tony,
I was told that you only need a 2 1/2 in yoke for most of the plane. It balances
well and it's easy to squeeze a nice rivet. The 4" is hard to handle and you can
squeeze off center because of it. So far I've found the 2 1/2 works out where you
would want to squeeze and the rest are bucked.
Have fun,
Bob
RV8 #423
Alivic(at)wport.com wrote:
>
> Is a 4" deep squeezer yoke needed in the construction of an RV.
>
> Tony Livic RV8 tail
> alivic(at)wport.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Throttle Brackett.. |
Hi gang!
I had a question about the throttle/mixture brackett used on
the new 0-360A1A
with a precision airmotive carb supplied with the new engines from Van's.I
did buy the brackett that Van's sells but it doesn't look right. Anybody
have a slam dunker set up?
I'm sure this is not the first time this has come up..How about cable
lenghts for the throttle,mixture,and prop..Any thoughts?
Thanks, John Hughes
RV-6
N164JH (reserved)
So
Cal, Hookin things up!!
Oshkosh 99 or bust!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Nibbler attachment for power drill |
Speaking of the Oshkosh FlyMart, did anyone see the Austalian guy
hawking a nibbler attachment for a power drill? Nice little cutting
head
that allows you to scroll your aluminum or steel sheet around like it
was nothing. No noticeable deformation of the aluminum either. I don't
recall the width of the cut though.
It was ~$100 with the table clamps I think. Did anyone buy one of
these? How is it?
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA N727MF (reserved)
RV-6AQME Finishing Kit...
Pres/Newsletter Editor - Bay Area RVators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nibbler attachment for power drill |
Mitch,
For $100.00 you can purchase an Jap Import Nibbler with 2 additional set's of
cutting blades, and it does a great job. I looked at the drill attachment in
Oshkosh, but when I got the price it just was not worth it.
BSivori(at)Aol.Com
N929RV ( Reserved )
Closed Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Squeezer Yokes |
toni,
thats the only yoke i've used since i started my 6a, emp and wings almost
complete, never needed the 1 1/2 yoke yet.
hope this helps
good luck
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Some 6A's have the step some don't. What is the feedback for putting steps to
get into the 6A?Personally I would prefer not to put a step or two on however
if it is difficult for most paople to get into the aircraft then I need to
install them. Anybody care to comment? Bob Claypool, Fresno, CA RVQ6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr Carol Richards <crcar(at)cc.newcastle.edu.au> |
I've had discussions with several people regarding suitable abrasives to be
used
on aluminum aircraft. I did check the archive, but did not find an extensive
response to the question. How about input from listers to the following:
1. Aluminum oxide
2. Silicon carbide
3. 'wet or dry' (usually silicon carbide?)
4. 'carborundum' paper - is this silicon carbide, corundum (#9 on Moh's
hardness scale; mineral for sapphire and ruby)
or other?
5. Garnet paper
6. Scotchbrite - red, green, gray
Sam (I hope I haven't started a primer war) Richards, RV-6 Newcastle, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop?? |
John,
Which prop do you have? I have a Sensenich W68T6EM-76 wood prop that I used
on a 150 HP Wittman Tailwind. I was never able to get enough RPM out of it.
I'm wondering how it would do on a 160 HP RV-6. What static RPM, cruise RPM
and speeds are you getting?
Thanks,
Bob, San Antonio
RV-6;
-----Original Message-----
From: John Kitz [SMTP:jkitz(at)greenapple.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 7:44 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop??
> How about a wooden prop for an RV-4 with a 0-320/150 horse
engine
Hi Bob;
I just love my Sensenich wood prop. Great performance in a -4 with
150hp.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
250 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Bob:
I was going to put steps onto my -6A (when I get to that point) but Denis
Walsh changed my mind... He uses what he calls his "Zero Drag Step" -- a
short, plastic (no appreciable weight) step stool that he leaves upside
down in his baggage area. When he needs it, he'll get it out and use it;
when he doesn't, it doesn't cost anything to ride along and doesn't sap you
of drag/speed. And, as he also pointed out, using it would put you on the
passenger side where you can do the gentlemanly thing (like offering your
passenger a hand on/off the wing) when flying with your sig-other.
That's my spin on the step.
Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
ICQ# 11770815
URGENT MESSAGES: pagekidder(at)bigfoot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Cathy Lamport) |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Our 6A which has been flying since May does not have steps. Did not want
to have anything that might create extra drag. I am five four and manage to
boost myself up onto the wing okay but some people that are not so nimble
may have problems. It is an easy climb for someone much taller.
BTW, we now have over 50 hours on our baby and we're loving every minute.
Cathy Lamport
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
>
>
>Some 6A's have the step some don't. What is the feedback for putting steps to
>get into the 6A?Personally I would prefer not to put a step or two on however
>if it is difficult for most paople to get into the aircraft then I need to
>install them. Anybody care to comment? Bob Claypool, Fresno, CA RVQ6A
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Just a reminder on the next RV Fly-In at Lebanon, TN (M54, 20 miles east of
Nashville) October 3-4. As long as the weather holds, we should have a
minimum of 35 RV's in attendance (based on our experience from the last two
years), hopefully more since we are putting a blitz on the advertising.
Lunch will be available both days with a dinner scheduled for Saturday
night. Hotel and rental car information available on request.
For those interested in some stick time with Mike Seager, I only have three
slots remaining open for Friday morning: 9:00, 10:15, and 11:30. Let me
know if your interested. For those who missed the opportunity to fly with
Mike, you may be able to twist an arm or two for a flight with someone
else. d:^)
Any questions, please let me know.
Dave Hudgins
RV-6A
Nashville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Your short legged passengers will thank you and the airplane will suffer
less abuse from people trying to board. And this aging, short legged,
overweight pilot has one for his side too, although I'm hedging on
installing it because of the added weight, drag, etc., even if it is
minimal. The archives has some more info on this.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA (still baffling)
>Some 6A's have the step some don't. What is the feedback for putting steps
to get into the 6A?Personally I would prefer not to put a step or two on
however if it is difficult for most paople to get into the aircraft then I
need to
install them. Anybody care to comment? Bob Claypool, Fresno, CA RVQ6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partiain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
For Sale 1995 RV-4 185 TTSN , 0320 D1A 160 HP, 185TTSN , Hartzell C/S Prop
185 TTSN, K/N Air Filter, Stainless exhaust pipes with crossover . Single
heater muff. Carburetor heat. Alternator cooling tube, Magneto cooling
tubes, Piper oil cooler, Fuel primer.
Terra 760D Com ,Terra 250D xpdr ,Apollo 360 moving map GPS ,ELT , PSII 1000
intercom, Vertical card compass, Altimeter, VSI ,Electronics International
CHT EGT OAT , Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Amp/Volt meter, Electronic Tach,
Lighting on All instruments with dimmer switch.
Navigation Lights, Rear position light, Strobes on wing tips, Dual landing
Lights enclosed in wing tips, Electric Flaps, Locking canopy (keyed same as
ignition), Wood stick grip,
Cabin heat with front and rear outlets, Two fresh air vents located on
canopy skirt.
Professional Paint, White with Blue stripping, Interior panels light Grey
with medium Grey Leather seats
Temper foam, Dark Gray Carpet , Firewall
insulation ,CD player
This is a very nice plane, always kept in a hanger and professionally
maintained. All avionics purchased new November 1996 and installed
professionally.
All plans and instrument documentation. Complete Logs
Cruise 187 mph @ 8.5 gph
Annual due 8/98
$55,000.00
Price includes 8/98 annual (yet to be inspected)
Tony Partain
314-894-0828
Saint Louis MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezer Yokes |
Alivic(at)wport.com wrote:
>
>
> Is a 4" deep squeezer yoke needed in the construction of an RV.
>
> Tony Livic RV8 tail
> alivic(at)wport.com
Tony,
Yes it is, along with a no-hole yoke, and a longeron yoke.
I have two other friends building and we've got the three between us
and swap as needed. This keeps the cost of the yoke collection down.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Brackett.. |
John Hughes wrote:
>
>
> Hi gang!
> I had a question about the throttle/mixture brackett used on
> the new 0-360A1A
> with a precision airmotive carb supplied with the new engines from Van's.I
> did buy the brackett that Van's sells but it doesn't look right. Anybody
> have a slam dunker set up?
> I'm sure this is not the first time this has come up..How about cable
> lenghts for the throttle,mixture,and prop..Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks, John Hughes
> RV-6
> N164JH (reserved)
> So
> Cal, Hookin things up!!
>
> Oshkosh 99 or bust!!
>
>
Talk to GV . I believe his dwgs. are on Sam Buchanan's web page.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Feedback on the step into a 6A |
A local builder, Charlie Winn, uses an empty 1 gallon can as a step for his
6A. It has a long string handle so he can place and retrieve it from the
wing. Just had his plane painted and they did the can to match, complete
with non-slip on the top. Cute, practical and no drag.
Greg Young
RV6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
Some 6A's have the step some don't. What is the feedback for putting steps
to
get into the 6A?Personally I would prefer not to put a step or two on
however
if it is difficult for most paople to get into the aircraft then I need to
install them. Anybody care to comment? Bob Claypool, Fresno, CA RVQ6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Double, double toil and trouble, bent frame and stretched |
bubble!
Hal, Got no ideas on your truly wierd canopy-stretch other than to try clecoing
the
available holes in different sequences to try and get a fit.
I got the photos and they are great. There was no return address on the envelope
so
please send me your address so I can sent some $.
I am going to do the rear skirt in fibreglas and today will be the big day.
Jim New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
> What is the feedback for putting steps to
> get into the 6A?
I put a step on the right side, not the left. Why, because I am aware of
the need to take the big step to get in and out. My passengers may not
be, may forget, or may just have trouble with it.
What convinced me of this was by looking at Van's 6A demonstrator a few
years ago at Oshkosh. They had just put the step in their own plane, and
it was apparent why. The root of the flap was in bad shape from all of
the failed attempts of riders to get in and out.
The RVs do not have real robust flaps. Some otherwise well meaning
person stomping on it while trying to get in or out of your airplane
1000 miles from home can really ruin your trip. I view the step as cheap
insurance. It does make things easier for the not-so-nimble too.
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
>
> Some 6A's have the step some don't. What is the feedback for putting steps to
> get into the 6A?Personally I would prefer not to put a step or two on however
> if it is difficult for most paople to get into the aircraft then I need to
> install them. Anybody care to comment? Bob Claypool, Fresno, CA RVQ6A
Bob --
In a -6, you can get by without them, although shorter people have a
bit of a problem.
In a -6A, you probably need them. Because the nose isn't pointing up
in the air, the trailing edge is higher off the ground and it's a pretty
good step up. If you're at all tall, you might not need one on your side.
But you'll want one for your passengers. If you're going to allow shorter
pilots to fly your airplane, you'll want both.
All this according to what the guys at Van's told me when I ordered my
fuselage.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
What are the +\- of using a varister instead of a diode to shunt the EMF of a
contactors collapsing field?
Tom De Winter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv 4 For Sale |
Tony,
Cant speak for anyone else on the list, but I am certainly aware of the
fact that you have an airplane for sale. I have recieved this for sale
notice at least 6 times in the last 3 weeks. Apparently nobody on the list
is buying at the moment. Think you could scale back to maybe once a month
on the advertising?
There has been some discussion in the past regarding advertising on the
list (though I didnt see anything in the monthly policy statement). Perhaps
Matt could address this for new listers?
Mike Wills
RV-4(fuse)
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>For Sale 1995 RV-4 185 TTSN , 0320 D1A 160 HP, 185TTSN , Hartzell C/S Prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
Dr Carol Richards wrote:
>
> I've had discussions with several people regarding suitable abrasives to be used
> on aluminum aircraft.
> Sam (I hope I haven't started a primer war) Richards, RV-6 Newcastle, Australia
Your question makes me worry. Any of the abrasives you mention will quickly remove
the thin layer of pure aluminum from the ALCLAD skin, leaving it completely
dependent on applied surface treatments for corrosion prevention. The question
is,
"Where do you intend to apply such an abrasive material and why?" There are a
few
places where you should, e.g., where you are applying Pro-Seal, and a few places
where you must, e.g., where you sand a sharp edge, but, generally, it is something
to be avoided.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Brackett.. |
<< I had a question about the throttle/mixture bracket used on
the new 0-360A1A
with a precision airmotive carb supplied with the new engines from Van's.I
did buy the bracket that Van's sells but it doesn't look right. Anybody
have a slam dunker set up?
I'm sure this is not the first time this has come up..How about cable
lengths for the throttle,mixture,and prop. >>
We've gone this route before and this entire discussion is captured in the
archives for posterity. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Overlapping metal sheets |
This makes sense to me and my wrinkled up brain. I remember how snow used to form
smoothly on the upwind side of something and do all sorts of neat drifting on
the downwind.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezer Yokes |
> Is a 4" deep squeezer yoke needed in the construction of an RV.
It seems like whenever this comes up you get a number of differing
opinions. I guess everyone has their own idea of what is "needed" and
what is a luxury. Interestingly, Van built his first RV without the
benefit of even a hand squeezer. But I digress.... here's my
preference in order
1) 2 1/2"
2) thin-nose, no-hole
3) offset, or "longeron"
4) 4"
The reason I like the 2 1/2" more than the 4" is that it is more likely
to be helpful in tight places where it is difficult to get with a
gun/bucking bar. The 4" is more likely to be useful on places where you
could get a bucking bar anyway. Also the 2 1/2" one is lighter and
easier to handle for everyday work.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
They are also a BIG job to fit.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
>
>What are the +\- of using a varister instead of a diode to shunt the EMF of a
>contactors collapsing field?
>
>Tom De Winter
MOVs are harder to find in low voltage ratings. I have to order our
stock in from Digikey. MOVs are not polarity sensitive, it doesn't
matter how your wire them in. I'm currently REPLACING the MOVs on
our wiring diagrams with diodes. Easier to get, a little tougher
to mount but not much, and you have to watch polarity. We'll publish,
"Dealing with Those Pesky Diodes" on our website as soon as I get
Rev 8 to printers (maybe tomorrow morning?).
Starter contactors we stock have the diode built in so that's one
less installation to make.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Double, double toil and trouble, bent frame and stretched |
bubble!
Hi Jim,
Glad you enjoyed the photos.
They are only 36 cents each - high quality finishing tho.
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Ct
Santa Clara, CA 95051
ero (well, the forward
voltage drop of the diode which is usually around 0.7V) and a metal oxide
varistor (MOV) doesn't clamp until tens or hundreds of volts since most are
designed for clamping spikes on telephone lines and/or power lines.
For your relays/contactors the diode is the right answer.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
tening to this guy's pitch - he
was good.
Shelby in Nashville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezer Yokes |
No doubt the specialized yokes would be "nice" to have; however, if the
tool budget is a little tight, you can leave the fancy yokes at the
store and get by just fine. I am nearing the finish kit phase on the RV6
and have used only the standard 3" yoke. For the price of the special
yokes, you can buy an edge-former tool, a set of tank dimple dies, and
several 2" ScotchBrite wheels for your diegrinder.
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Edward Cole wrote:
>
>
> Alivic(at)wport.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Is a 4" deep squeezer yoke needed in the construction of an RV.
> >
> > Tony Livic RV8 tail
> > alivic(at)wport.com
>
> Tony,
>
> Yes it is, along with a no-hole yoke, and a longeron yoke.
> I have two other friends building and we've got the three between us
> and swap as needed. This keeps the cost of the yoke collection down.
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A Fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
> Some 6A's have the step some don't. What is the feedback for putting steps to
> get into the 6A?
After spending the week at Sun-n-fun manning the booth a couple of years
ago, I would recommend anyone with an -A model get the step at least on
the passenger side. Unless you are going to restrict the right seat to
only a fit, well trained few, the risk of flap rash will be a lot higher
without it. As for the pilot's side, you probably don't need it but I'd
try it out before deciding if you haven't already.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
After chickening out of a plan to build a Long-Eze many years ago, I am once
again thinking about building a plane. 2,500 hours - I must be crazy. Please
tell me it helps. Anyway, my question is - RV-6A vs Cozy IV. I am sure
plenty of others on this list went though a similar decision process before
committing to the RV and I wonder if any of you would share some of those
thoughts with me. I see the trade space defined in terms of construction
complexity, kit / part cost, performance, operating / life cycle cost,
reliability / safety, ease of operation / tolerance of pilot errors and lack
of experience. My evaluation so far is with a + being good or better, and a -
being not as good.
Construction complexity RV (metal) - medium (+)
Cozy (composite) -
high (-)
Work space needed Less for the RV, so it's a (+)
Kit cost Similar (0) although
you can buy the
engine through
Vans for a discount, so
the RV may be a
(+) here.
Performance (speed, fuel consumption) Similar (0)
Life cycle cost assuming the same engine
Fuel RV a slight plus
Storage /hangar RV a slight plus
Engine and prop Similar (0)
Reliability / safety
Composites are strong Cozy (+)
Corrosion susceptibility Cozy (+)
Tolerance to being trapped out
in bad weather RV (+) I think
Potential for failure due to
unseen problem (fuel seepage) RV (+)
Ability to put it down in a field in
an emergency with minimum
damage and risk. RV (+)
Ease of operation RV (+) I think
# of seats Cozy (+++)
So far I get about a similar score for both in terms of the really important
stuff, with one big minus for the Cozy (the amount of difficulty associated
with building a glass plane). I probably haven't scratched the surface on all
the issues, but would like to reach a decision of this magnitude via a well
reasoned process. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. It
certainly won't hurt my feelings if anyone disagrees with me. (and since this
is an RV list, I am sure some will).
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mack, Don" <DMack(at)tuthill.com> |
| Subject: | Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Big is relative. It took about 3 hours to do both. How long will it take to
build a new flap?
The critical thing is to make sure it's back far enough to clear the flap.
Easy to do when you mount the wings for the gear mounts, install the flap
and mark it on the fuse.
Don Mack
RV-6A Fuselage
http:\www.flash.net\~donmack
They are also a BIG job to fit.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | RV Pig Roast Fly-in |
I am having an RV/Experimental/homebuilt pig roast at my hangar on sunday
October 11 at 11 am. All flyins, RV or homebuilders are welcome. Im located
in Sparta, IL (Hunter Field) (SAR). We'll be cooking a 200 lb hog saturday
night so anyone wanting to come early and camp is welcome. Bring a lawnchair
or something to sit on and side dishes are not necessary. The pig is free and
soft drinks are available from the FBO. Sandwiches begin 11 am on sunday,
first come first serve.
RSVP direct is not necessary but would be nice.
chet razer
razer(at)midwest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
I have two friends that have built Cozys', One hardly ever fly's his
(?????? Don't know why) And the other has been working on his for years and
years. My point is I got to see some of the construction techniques and I
came to the conclusion that I would NEVER buy a glass plane that someone
else has built. There are too many ways to hide shoddy workmanship and
unless you put it on a scale, you really don't know what it weighs. (Could
have been overbuilt easily). I don't think I'm alone in this feeling. I
would think that your resale for an RV done with reasonable craftsmanship
is going to be far more valuable in the long run that putting all that time
and money into something that sooner or later you will sell and take a loss
on. I originally chose the RV-6 based on it's long term value and then
found out all the other GREAT characteristics of the design. I'm glad I
chose the way I did and I'm not even flying yet! AL
>
>After chickening out of a plan to build a Long-Eze many years ago, I am once
>again thinking about building a plane. 2,500 hours - I must be crazy.
Please
>tell me it helps. Anyway, my question is - RV-6A vs Cozy IV. I am sure
>plenty of others on this list went though a similar decision process before
>committing to the RV and I wonder if any of you would share some of those
>thoughts with me. I see the trade space defined in terms of construction
>complexity, kit / part cost, performance, operating / life cycle cost,
>reliability / safety, ease of operation / tolerance of pilot errors and lack
>of experience. My evaluation so far is with a + being good or better, and
a -
>being not as good.
>
>Construction complexity RV (metal) - medium (+)
> Cozy (composite) -
>high (-)
>
>Work space needed Less for the RV, so it's a (+)
>
>Kit cost Similar (0) although
>you can buy the
> engine through
>Vans for a discount, so
> the RV may be a
>(+) here.
>
>Performance (speed, fuel consumption) Similar (0)
>
>Life cycle cost assuming the same engine
> Fuel RV a slight plus
> Storage /hangar RV a slight plus
> Engine and prop Similar (0)
>
>Reliability / safety
> Composites are strong Cozy (+)
> Corrosion susceptibility Cozy (+)
> Tolerance to being trapped out
> in bad weather RV (+) I think
> Potential for failure due to
> unseen problem (fuel seepage) RV (+)
> Ability to put it down in a field in
> an emergency with minimum
> damage and risk. RV (+)
>
>Ease of operation RV (+) I think
>
># of seats Cozy (+++)
>
>So far I get about a similar score for both in terms of the really important
>stuff, with one big minus for the Cozy (the amount of difficulty associated
>with building a glass plane). I probably haven't scratched the surface on
all
>the issues, but would like to reach a decision of this magnitude via a well
>reasoned process. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. It
>certainly won't hurt my feelings if anyone disagrees with me. (and since this
>is an RV list, I am sure some will).
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
>reasoned process. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. It
>certainly won't hurt my feelings if anyone disagrees with me. (and since this
>is an RV list, I am sure some will).
>
>Thanks.
The RV-6 and the Cozy are both great aircraft, but fill completely different roles:
Cozy - Cruise three or four souls on long x/c's, fast and comfortable.
Requires long, flat runways.
Limited (if any) aerobatics.
Longer buildtime, layup work affected by ambient temp's, may develop allergic
reaction to resins.
RV - Two people.
Short, rough strips okay.
Sport aerobatics.
Build in all temperatures (except for canopy ), no allergic reactions.
First decide what mission profile you want to satisfy, second decide what kit aircraft
fullfill that role, then sweat the details (i.e. construction method,
time to build, etc).
My $0.02 worth...Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>reasoned process. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. It
>certainly won't hurt my feelings if anyone disagrees with me. (and since this
>is an RV list, I am sure some will).
>
>Thanks.
Biggest question is: How badly do you want those extra seats?
When I needed the seats, I didn't have the money. Now that I have the
money (sort of), I don't need the seats (one kid out of the house, other
in college).
A person's airplane needs change through the years - kind of like their
cars. I don't need the station wagon any longer... the sports car is more
attractive. Station wagons I can rent when necessary.
:) all the "kids" out there are asking themselves: "What's a "station wagon"?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX.
-6 Emp, drilling elevators, wings on the waaayyy!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV Hangar Party - N85 |
This Saturday (September 5th) is the annual RV hangar party and Alexandria
Field, Pittstown, NJ. Bring your RV and tell lies to us. We provide the food
and drink.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd side skins- 6A |
I checked my fuselage last night and found that the bottom skin was over
the curved portions of the side skins.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 8:24 AM
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fwd side skins- 6A
The curved aft end goes OVER the center bottom skins. The rest I don't
know. I left the hinge(s) undrilled thinking that I should have the
cowl on hand before drilling. I hope to finesse the issue of dimpling
or countersinking the holes later. Probably a mistake, but I hope not.
Steve Soule
RV-6A fuselage floors
-----Original Message-----
1- Does the curved aft end go under the center bottom
skins (676/677)?
2- do I drill the fwd hinge holes now. If I don't now ,
how will I deburr
& demple after they are on? I am planning on back
drilling the henge &
spacer later.
3- Want to run a line (for wires) thru the 604,605, &
606. What type if
tubing do youall recommend?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Some 6A's have the step some don't. What is the feedback for putting
steps to
>> get into the 6A?
I've got a step only on the right side. I would do it again, it's a great
aid for kids and those unfamiliar with RV's. The plane flies plenty fast
without worring about a mile or two difference on speed. I do have a couple
of suggestions, and I'm sure a lot of you guys with steps may second this.
1. Lower the flaps prior to getting in/out. Lowers the risk of stepping on
them, especially when getting out. You can placard the heck out of the flap
with "NO STEP" decals, but if the flap is sticking out there, eventually
someone will walk on it. It's still a pretty good stretch to the step from
the wing with the flap up, a little hard to see.
2. Watch the passanger weight using the step. The other day, I took a guy
to breakfast who probably weighed in around 250 (before breakfast). After I
jumped up on the pilots side wing standing there waiting for him to get in,
he steps on the right step. Yup! You guessed it, the tail came down and hit
the tie down ring, BONG! OOPS, sorry! Shouldn't have had that last piece of
sausage.
This is with an O-360 and C/S prop too! So watch it!
Dave
RV-6A
Nashville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
>> Ability to put it down in a field in
>> an emergency with minimum
>> damage and risk. RV (+)
I was never "religious" in the plastic vs. metal argument BEFORE I put my
RV-4 in the trees at Chapel Hill and walked away. Landing at 50mph and the
energy absorbing crumple effect of the aluminum construction made me a true
believer.
The fact I'm writing this at all is proof enough for me...
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT - in rebuild - will fly by 2000
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Kerr" <ikerr(at)macromedia.com> |
Hi all,
so, has anyone seen or ridden in, or flown the 4-place "RV-6+"?
fun to fly? Horrible? just curious, as 3 friends might be more fun than 1.
-Ian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Moore <jjm6898(at)unix.tamu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv 4 For Sale |
On Wed, 2 Sep 1998, Mike Wills wrote:
>
> Tony,
> Cant speak for anyone else on the list, but I am certainly aware of the
> fact that you have an airplane for sale. I have recieved this for sale
> notice at least 6 times in the last 3 weeks. Apparently nobody on the list
> is buying at the moment. Think you could scale back to maybe once a month
> on the advertising?
> There has been some discussion in the past regarding advertising on the
> list (though I didnt see anything in the monthly policy statement). Perhaps
> Matt could address this for new listers?
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4(fuse)
> willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
> >
> >For Sale 1995 RV-4 185 TTSN , 0320 D1A 160 HP, 185TTSN , Hartzell C/S Prop
Mike,
Tony has lowered the price of his RV-4 since his last post. I more than
welcome future posts if his trend continues. As a person debating whether
to build or buy, the forsale posts are beneficial to me.
Jeff Moore
RV4/6A (planning and dreaming stage)
jjmoore(at)tamu.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv 4 For Sale |
It sounds like "appropriate" advertising but you're right on the frequency
of the ad appearing on the list. People on the list are always buying,
that price is just a little too steep for most of us.....
>
>Tony,
> Cant speak for anyone else on the list, but I am certainly aware of the
>fact that you have an airplane for sale. I have recieved this for sale
>notice at least 6 times in the last 3 weeks. Apparently nobody on the list
>is buying at the moment. Think you could scale back to maybe once a month
>on the advertising?
> There has been some discussion in the past regarding advertising on the
>list (though I didnt see anything in the monthly policy statement). Perhaps
>Matt could address this for new listers?
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4(fuse)
>willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>>
>>For Sale 1995 RV-4 185 TTSN , 0320 D1A 160 HP, 185TTSN , Hartzell C/S Prop
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
One RV-6A owner told me his steps lost 5MPH for him after he put them
on. I just today received a folding stool from Sporty's so my wife could
more easily alight from the right wing. Looks as if it will work fine:I
saved the 5MPH and only need the stool when she or a similiar
non-athlete type goes with me. Try it.('tho I think the cost is about
the same as a Van's step!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Feedback on the step into a 6A |
>They are also a BIG job to fit.
>>Big is relative. It took about 3 hours to do both. How long will it
take to
>>build a new flap?
I work slower than Don, and it took me about seven hours. That's for
all the finish work (persuading it to fit flush on all sides), bolting
in, and
drilling/clecoing. I think it turned out great and Dennis Persyk had
calculated the reduction in speed for both steps to be 0.3 MPH at
185 MPH, so people talking about "all that extra drag" are full
of hooey.
I'm also going to fabricate a VS strake that comes forward more
towards the back of the sliding canopy. Anything to make it look
more like a Marchetti SF-260 (sorry Van!) Anybody want to make
flying tip lockers or fuel tanks to complete the look? ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
One big factor will be the fact that the construction of a composite
aircraft must be done under temperature controlled conditions. An
aluminum airplane is not so sensitive.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont (often pretty cold)
-----Original Message-----After chickening out of a plan
to build a Long-Eze many years ago, I am once
again thinking about building a plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv 4 For Sale |
> Mike,
>
> Tony has lowered the price of his RV-4 since his last post. I more than
> welcome future posts if his trend continues. As a person debating whether
> to build or buy, the forsale posts are beneficial to me.
>
> Jeff Moore
> RV4/6A (planning and dreaming stage)
>
> jjmoore(at)tamu.edu
Jeff,
Kudo's to you
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
I've gone through a similar analysis of the Europa, Glastar, Pulsar,
Glassair, and the RV-8a and will choose the RV (I was able to fly in three
of the five). One item you might want to add to your list . . . can you
complete the project? It looks like RV's, in general, get finished.
Quick-build RV's even more so. Recent issues of Kitplanes (I think that's
where I saw it, perhaps Sport Aviation) show number of completions . . . and
the RV-series get an "A+". I attended a Sportair workshop on composites,
one of the attendees was a Cozy builder, and it sounded like he had quite a
monster ahead of him (this was two years ago--perhaps they have more items
pre-fabricated, etc.).
It's hard to say. I would think either choice will give you a lot of
headaches and heart burn--and a fantastic amount of fun and experiences.
Your only mistake would be to want to build something--not going ahead--and
then ending up with the one thing none of us want as we enter old age . . .
"regrets".
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
Potential RV-8a builder (awaiting Dec. Sportair course on the Van's series)
-----Original Message-----
From: Militch(at)aol.com <Militch(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 12:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV vs Cozy trade-offs
>
>After chickening out of a plan to build a Long-Eze many years ago, I am
once
>again thinking about building a plane. 2,500 hours - I must be crazy.
Please
>tell me it helps. Anyway, my question is - RV-6A vs Cozy IV. I am sure
>plenty of others on this list went though a similar decision process before
>committing to the RV and I wonder if any of you would share some of those
>thoughts with me. I see the trade space defined in terms of construction
>complexity, kit / part cost, performance, operating / life cycle cost,
>reliability / safety, ease of operation / tolerance of pilot errors and
lack
>of experience. My evaluation so far is with a + being good or better, and
a -
>being not as good.
>
>Construction complexity RV (metal) - medium (+)
> Cozy
(composite) -
>high (-)
>
>Work space needed Less for the RV, so it's a
(+)
>
>Kit cost Similar (0)
although
>you can buy the
> engine through
>Vans for a discount, so
> the RV may be
a
>(+) here.
>
>Performance (speed, fuel consumption) Similar (0)
>
>Life cycle cost assuming the same engine
> Fuel RV a slight plus
> Storage /hangar RV a slight plus
> Engine and prop Similar (0)
>
>Reliability / safety
> Composites are strong Cozy (+)
> Corrosion susceptibility Cozy (+)
> Tolerance to being trapped out
> in bad weather RV (+) I think
> Potential for failure due to
> unseen problem (fuel seepage) RV (+)
> Ability to put it down in a field in
> an emergency with minimum
> damage and risk. RV (+)
>
>Ease of operation RV (+) I think
>
># of seats Cozy (+++)
>
>So far I get about a similar score for both in terms of the really
important
>stuff, with one big minus for the Cozy (the amount of difficulty associated
>with building a glass plane). I probably haven't scratched the surface on
all
>the issues, but would like to reach a decision of this magnitude via a well
>reasoned process. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. It
>certainly won't hurt my feelings if anyone disagrees with me. (and since
this
>is an RV list, I am sure some will).
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6+ at Osh? |
Ian,
If you get any replies, would you please forward them to me as I am also
interested in the 6+ version of
the RV series.....Thanks.
Paul Bilodeau
paul.and.ien(at)worldnet.att.net
----------
> From: Ian Kerr <ikerr(at)macromedia.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6+ at Osh?
> Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 5:14 PM
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> so, has anyone seen or ridden in, or flown the 4-place "RV-6+"?
>
> fun to fly? Horrible? just curious, as 3 friends might be more fun than
1.
>
> -Ian
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv 4 For Sale |
Tony/listers,
It appears from the consensus both on and off list that I was off base on
this and that there is interest in this sort of advertisement. Apologies to
all for bringing this up on list. I should have mailed my comments directly
to Tony. Lets end it here and avoid another flame war.
Mike Wills
RV-4(fuse)
willsm(at)manta.spawar.navy.mil
>
>For Sale 1995 RV-4 185 TTSN , 0320 D1A 160 HP, 185TTSN , Hartzell C/S Prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
> They are also a BIG job to fit.
Nah,
If you do it while you are building, it's really not a big deal at all.
It would be a big job if you decided you wanted one later.
Andy
would appear to be a type of construction which you
enjoy enough to complete the plane. Join the EAA if you have not already and work
on several different types of planes in various stages of construction. You will
change your opinion of each as you learn to appreciate each material. Performance
is much more than how fast a plane will go. You may want to start with a plane
that flys slowly but can land almost anywhere. Your checklist is a good idea but
appears to compare apples and oranges. My suggestion is to decide what type of
constuction you want use, then the degree of complexity and expense. If you decide
you want to build a metal aircraft you will probably decide, as have many, that
the Vans Aircraft offer much in the way of buildability and performance.
Joe Walker
Rebuilding Wreaked RV6
Houston, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TERRY L BENZER" <TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net> |
When removing the flange to create the tongue so that you can bend the
forward spar,
how far back do you remove the flange? R-1 on 3-PP removed the distance and
now
says trim to fit. Also, on the hs-814 and hs-810 do the tapers start at the
edge of the
remaining flange?
TIA,
Terry
#80800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Greg Young wrote:
>
>
> A local builder, Charlie Winn, uses an empty 1 gallon can as a step for his
> 6A. It has a long string handle so he can place and retrieve it from the
> wing. Just had his plane painted and they did the can to match, complete
> with non-slip on the top. Cute, practical and no drag.
>
> Greg Young
> RV6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
>
Listers,
I know that weight and drag have their penalties, but I don't think
anyone
will lose that much speed with a couple of steps installed. If you weigh
this against
someone stepping on you flap or that bucket bouncing off you $3000 paint
job, you can
see the practicality. If your really concerned about reaching your
destination 1 -2 minutes later
than planned, leave 'em off!
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
My wife can hardly stand an occasional smell of primer or paint. She
would have gone balistic if she had to smell resin all the time. Put a
plus by 'SMELL' for the RV-6. (A rose by any other name...)
Frank Smidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
AcroII(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> What are the +\- of using a varister instead of a diode to shunt the EMF of a
> contactors collapsing field?
>
> Tom De Winter
>
Tom,
A varistor is not a diode. The diode conducts in one direction only
allowing
the shunting action across the relay coil as it collapses. A Varistor
changes
its resistance with current flow. It would also allow current flow in
both directions.
Not a good idea in this application.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lynda K. Frantz" <LFrantz(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attack |
Having had 14 RV e-mail requests this week for information on how our
Angle-of-Attack instrument works with out a vane or a probe and how it is
installed, I thought I should explain. First a little background.
45.3% of fatal accidents in experimentals are due to stall/spins while only
28% for GA. Why the difference? Mostly, GA is required by FARs to have
stall warners and experiments generally do not. AOA is the ultimate stall
warner since any given airfoil always stalls at the same AOA called the
critical AOA!
Here is how it works. Two tiny pressure ports (.040" dia) are located on
the wing, one on top and the other on the bottom. The ports measure the
local wing loading. We also look at your pitot/static differential
pressure (dynamic pressure). By dividing the wing loading by the dynamic
pressure the resultant coefficient of pressure is known aerodynamically to
vary uniquely with AOA.
The AOA is self compensating and is the only instrument that is a true
aerodynamic indicator. Just as there is an optimum AOA for all approaches
there is also an optimum AOA for initial climbs, the best L/D, Vx, and
maximum endurance regardless of weight, altitude, fuel load, temperature,
etc. The AOA Professional includes a 4 color liquid crystal display, a
voice warning system and has no protrusions or moving parts to ice up or
slow you down. You my have seen it in the May 98 issue of Sport Aviation
Better Way to Fly page 50-53.
Until recently full range AOA instruments were not affordable at $22,000
and up but no longer. The AOA Professional lists for $1,450. For
comparison, the simple A/C Spruce stall warner (buzzer) is $1,200.
If you want more information please check our web at www.Lancair.net or
contact me directly at Jim(at)Lancair.net or (612) 474-4154.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Hangar Party - N85 |
In a message dated 9/2/98 2:24:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time, RV6junkie(at)aol.com
writes:
<< RV hangar party and Alexandria
Field, Pittstown, NJ. >>
MOEJOE, are you listening??? This may be near you.
NOTSO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6+ at Osh? |
Yes, I have recently ridden in the 6+. It is a beautiful flying airplane,
lots of power and performance. If you want to enjoy rv performance, plus haul
more, it will do the trick.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
>A person's airplane needs change through the years - kind of like their
>cars. I don't need the station wagon any longer... the sports car is more
>attractive. Station wagons I can rent when necessary.
>
>
>:) all the "kids" out there are asking themselves: "What's a "station wagon"?
>
That's kind of like a minivan, right? ;-)
I know, I know. I've owned one of each.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
svanarts(at)jps.net
"The essence of character is doing what's right,
even when nobody's looking."
- J. C. Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
<< What is the feedback for putting steps to
get into the 6A? >>
I've got one on each side of my 6A. I'm tall and leggy, my fiance is short
and cute. Neither of us would give up the ease of the steps for the 3-5 mph
speed increase. They make it easy to get things in and out of the plane
without standing on the wing and leaning over (hard on my 90 yr old back).
Also, we don't race. The 185 mph TAS cruise (60% power at 10,000 ft) is more
than enough. If we want to get there faster, we leave earlier.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
I chose to put a step on the passenger side of RV6A C-GCTZ. Glad I did. If I
am alone in the aircraft then I choose to enter from the passenger side.
Stepping onto the wing without a step is a little harder than I expected.
Bob B
-----Original Message-----
From: RClayp5888(at)aol.com <RClayp5888(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 8:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: Feedback on the step into a 6A
>
>Some 6A's have the step some don't. What is the feedback for putting steps
to
>get into the 6A?Personally I would prefer not to put a step or two on
however
>if it is difficult for most paople to get into the aircraft then I need to
>install them. Anybody care to comment? Bob Claypool, Fresno, CA RVQ6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | RV Resale Market |
Hello All,
A recent series of messages on an RV for sale got me going on something
I've been curious about again. I have seen RVs for sale in Trade-A-Plane
and other places for $50-70K routinely, but I have never heard of the
actual sale price. There may already be some info on this previously, but
I would be happy to post a summary of actual purchase prices if individuals
will e-mail me offline with the price bought or sold for and some comments
on the equipment/condition. I know I am very curious what the potential
value of my project is, although hopefully it won't be for sale for many
years.
Thanks,
Marcus
mcooper(at)cnetech.com
RV-6 weighed, FAA comes to see it next week:)!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 O-320 160 HP Wooden Prop?? |
Robert D. Cabe wrote:
>
>
> John,
>
> Which prop do you have? I have a Sensenich W68T6EM-76 wood prop that I used
> on a 150 HP Wittman Tailwind. I was never able to get enough RPM out of it.
> I'm wondering how it would do on a 160 HP RV-6. What static RPM, cruise RPM
> and speeds are you getting?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob, San Antonio
> RV-6;
> Bob;
The first Sensenich wood prop I had on my 0-320 150 hp was a W68T6EM-80
and it would end up over 2900 rpm in cruise and I could get over 200mph
out of it. It had a 2200 static . After an unfortunate accident, I
ordered one with 2 inches more pitch, a W68T6EM7-82. I get 192 mph at
low altitude checked with a gps. Static is 2100 rpm. It is not quite
as fast but I feel I get off the ground about as fast as before. Fuel
consumption going to OSH at 8500 feet was 8.6 gph measured for exactly 1
hour, 2600 rpm wide open at 21 mp. I had a headwind so I do not know
the speed but was very heavy on that trip. The biggest difference I
notice is the reduction in noise level with 200 rpm knocked off and
reduced fuel consumption.. My wife used to hear me coming miles away,
but no more.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
>A varistor is not a diode. The diode conducts in one direction only
>allowing the shunting action across the relay coil as it collapses.
>A Varistor changes its resistance with current flow.
Not quite accurate . . . varistors are rated for their ability
to respond to a voltage . . . like zener diodes. Their clamping
actions are not quite as sharp as a diode, zener or "transorb"
(a specialized form of zener) but they are commonly used just
as I've described in our published diagrams and writings.
>Not a good idea in this application.
I was enamored of their use because they are NOT polarity
sensitive and could not accidently be wired into the system
backwards. In retrospect, a minor advantange compared to
hastles of acquiring the parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
>A diode clamps the reverse voltage spike right a zero (well, the forward
>voltage drop of the diode which is usually around 0.7V) and a metal oxide
>varistor (MOV) doesn't clamp until tens or hundreds of volts since most are
>designed for clamping spikes on telephone lines and/or power lines.
When you use MOV's DESIGNED to clamp telephone line and power line
spikes, the voltage at which the device begins to absorb energy is
indeed on the order of 200 volts. When you buy 14-v transorbs, the
clamping voltage is about 20 volts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Hal, I added a step to my first -6A after it was built and I didn't think
that it was a "big" job, but then I quess it depends on your definition of
big. It did require removing the baggage floor on that side, but I've
developed quite a knack for removing rivets, both AN and pop. Otherwise it
was pretty easy. On my current -6AQ, I'm not riveting the baggage floors in
until I have the wings on and make a final decision on putting in one or
both. If someone isn't decided at all, this would be an option.
>
>They are also a BIG job to fit.
>
>hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6+ at Osh? |
Ian and Paul,
I spoke to one of the builders of the 6+ at MERFI last year. I will tell
you what I found out from him.
First off if you look at the wings it looks like they have been lengthened.
There is a solid piece 10" or 12" wide between the outboard edge of the
ailerons and the wing tips. Well they were originally going to build a
clipped wing six and then decided instead to build a stretched six. They
had already built the ailerons and some other mods to shorten the wings but
had not clipped the spars so they just put the solid spacer in to bring the
wings back to there original span. There is plenty of aileron left for
control.
They engineered an O-540 mount for the plane and to compensate for the
heavier weight up front, they lengthened the aft fuselage 14" around the
aft baggage bulkhead. To add some strength to this lengthened section they
used heavier skins on the aft fuselage. The aft bagged bulkhead was opened
up and reinforced for the passengers legs to fit further back into the
fuselage. I personally don't see enough room for two avg. sized adults but
you can fit a couple of kids back there with no problem.
He also told me when I ask that they do not recommend ANY aerobatics in the
aircraft and that the modifications as I recall were not thoroughly gone
over by an aeronautical engineer.
In conclusion, the gentleman I spoke with was very straight forward with
answers and the workmanship was excellent. The last I saw of the plane it
was "For Sale". Maybe I'll see it again at MERFI! (Sept. 12 & 13 at
Marion, Ohio) Al Columbus, Ohio
>
>Ian,
>
>If you get any replies, would you please forward them to me as I am also
>interested in the 6+ version of
>the RV series.....Thanks.
>
>Paul Bilodeau
>paul.and.ien(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
>without standing on the wing and leaning over (hard on my 90 yr old back).
>-GV
Gary,
What it this 90 Yr. old back BS? I'll bet 750 out of 800 guys on this list
believe you! Now they think your an old man......your gonna have some
explaining to do when you meet them in person. ;-) Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Feedback on the step into a 6A |
Don wrote:
> Big is relative. It took about 3 hours to do both. How long will it take to
> build a new flap?
Were you both using Avery Tools' new air powered step installer?
I spent three hours laying it out!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ROBERT K BOYETT" <ROBVIC(at)prodigy.net> |
Just a note to anyone about to drill their tank skins to the ribs and rear
baffle. the manual does not say anything about it, but you can not drill
the holes along the baffle from the second inboard rib to the root rib with
the tank clecoed to the spar.If you do you will surely drill into the spar.
Remove the assemblt from the spar to drill these holes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
> >A varistor is not a diode. The diode conducts in one direction only
> >allowing the shunting action across the relay coil as it collapses.
> >A Varistor changes its resistance with current flow.
>
> Not quite accurate . . . varistors are rated for their ability
> to respond to a voltage . . . like zener diodes. Their clamping
> actions are not quite as sharp as a diode, zener or "transorb"
> (a specialized form of zener) but they are commonly used just
> as I've described in our published diagrams and writings.
>
> >Not a good idea in this application.
>
> I was enamored of their use because they are NOT polarity
> sensitive and could not accidently be wired into the system
> backwards. In retrospect, a minor advantange compared to
> hastles of acquiring the parts.
>
>
Sorry Bob,
I was thinking of a thermistor!
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | MN Annual Pig Roast and Fly-In |
Fellow Listers:
The MN Wing of Van's AirForce would like to announce our annual Pig Roast
and Fly-In. Details below...
Minnesota Wing - Annual Fall Pig Roast and Picnic
Saturday September 12, 1998
1:00 pm till......
Sky Harbor Airpark, Webster MN
N 44 31.7, W 93 19.5 - or 215 degree radial 9.0 nm from FGT (115.7)
Join the MN Wing for our annual September Pig Roast, Family Picnic and
Fly-in. Our hosts this year will be Larry Winn and Kent VanMeter and all
the great folks at Sky Harbor. Naturally our own Don Flander will be
handling the cooking duties slaving over a hot cooker so we can indulge in
the best slow simmered pork this side of Memphis. As always, please bring
a salad or dessert. Pop, lemonade, and coffee will be furnished. The
kitty will be out to help cover the costs of the pork and the port-a-potty.
Naturally all flying RVs on the planet are cordially invited and everything
else is always welcome. Please monitor 122.9 for traffic advisories and
observe our aircraft marshallers. Safety is our primary concern so please
use caution in the traffic pattern and on the ground. Note also that we
will be gathering on the south side of the airport this year!!
Bring the wives, husbands, kids, grammas and grandpas and enjoy a great
day of RV fellowship!
Directions: From Minneapolis/St. Paul go south on I-35 past Lakeville to
the Elko, New Market exit #76 (County Rd 2). Go east to County Rd 42. Go
south to County Rd 3 and turn right (west). Cross over I-35 and turn left
at Canby. Drive south to 46th St. W (the airport will be on your right).
Turn right and go west to Cass Ct. The picnic will be at Kent VanMeters
hangar (second house on the right). Signs will be up, but if you become
disorientated call Larry Winn at 612-652-2235.
If you have any questions, please call me or email.
Doug, pres, MN Wing
============
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Hangar Party - N85 |
Got it Jim, but I have an aerobatics lesson at Sussex that morning, and
a 2.5 hr drive each way. All the club's planes were reserved, so I gotta
drive. I can't wait to have my own plane. If plans change, I will be
there.
Thanks for the heads up,
Moe
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 9/2/98 2:24:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time, RV6junkie(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> << RV hangar party and Alexandria
> Field, Pittstown, NJ. >>
> MOEJOE, are you listening??? This may be near you.
> NOTSO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Setrab Oil Cooler |
>
>Listers; I have access to a 16 row Setrab Oil Cooler, from TMR of Orange,
Ca.
>Has anyone used this particular 16 row unit in the O-360 with success? Or
>should I try to get the 19 row? General info on this unit and your
experiences
>with it would be appreciated.
>
I have used the 13 row Setrab with the 0-320 160 hp in ambients up to 100 F
without the oil temp exceeding the thermo setting of 180F.
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Thank You all for the step feedback |
A big thanks to all for your step feedback....looks like the baggage floors
are coming off! Appreciate all of your feedback. Bob Claypool RVQ6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback on the step into a 6A |
> >
> > They are also a BIG job to fit.
>
I spent about 12 hours total to mount mine, and I mounted them inside the
skins. Part of that 12 hours was modifying the weldments so that the
inboard end of the torque tube would not interfere with the belly skins.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
IS IT LEGAL TO HAVE YOUR COCKPIT WINDOWS TINTED?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 tank skins |
>
>Just a note to anyone about to drill their tank skins to the ribs and
rear
>baffle. the manual does not say anything about it, but you can not
drill
>the holes along the baffle from the second inboard rib to the root rib
with
>the tank clecoed to the spar.If you do you will surely drill into the
spar.
>Remove the assemblt from the spar to drill these holes.
>
Well....not quite. That's what drill stops are for. Adjust it so that
only a very small amount of the bit is protruding so that the spar isn't
marred when the bit breaks through. Ask me how I found this out..go
ahead..ask.
Brian Denk
RV8#379
gear box assemblies underway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
>IS IT LEGAL TO HAVE YOUR COCKPIT WINDOWS TINTED?
Why not? Van's offers them slightly tinted if the builder chooses. If
you're referring to a very dark tint..I wouldn't recommend it from a
visibility standpoint, but I don't know of any FARs that would address
the issue specifically.
Brian Denk
RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernesto Sanchez" <es12043(at)utech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
RV's have a higher re-sale value.
Cozy fiberglass OOPS! are easier to fix that sheet metal OOPS!
Cozy's seat three-four, RV one-two.
Cozy's do not corrode. RV's?
RV's more tools to buy. Cozy less tools.
RV's look good. Cozy's look Hi-tech.
Tough choice, Just build one of each!!
Long-Ez builder with RV friend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Can you drill Chrome? |
Listers;
I am planning on chroming the grab bar and the roll bar on my RV-8. I have all
the holes drilled on the rollbar, but have not drilled into it for the canopy
yet. My question is, if I go ahead now and get the roll bar chromed, is it
possible to drill into the chrome later when I mount the canopy? If it is
possible, what procedure would be used?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
Brian, I believe the RV canopies all come tinted as standard. You have to
request clear. At least that is the way it was the last I heard/read. I
think there was an article in the RVator or here on the list concerning
ultraviolet ray exposure that explained about this.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>>IS IT LEGAL TO HAVE YOUR COCKPIT WINDOWS TINTED?
>
>Why not? Van's offers them slightly tinted if the builder chooses. If
>you're referring to a very dark tint..I wouldn't recommend it from a
>visibility standpoint, but I don't know of any FARs that would address
>the issue specifically.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Brackett.. |
In addition to what's in the archives, the length will also depend somewhat
on whether you install them on a vertical (per plans) or horizontal power
console.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Hi gang!
> I had a question about the throttle/mixture brackett used on
>the new 0-360A1A
>with a precision airmotive carb supplied with the new engines from Van's.I
>did buy the brackett that Van's sells but it doesn't look right. Anybody
>have a slam dunker set up?
>I'm sure this is not the first time this has come up..How about cable
>lenghts for the throttle,mixture,and prop..Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks, John Hughes
> RV-6
>N164JH (reserved)
> So
>Cal, Hookin things up!!
>
>Oshkosh 99 or bust!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv 4 For Sale |
Gee, Mike. You take all the fun out of watching, when you give
up the fight so easily. ha. (Good decision)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A power management (was fixed props) |
<< Static is 2100 rpm. It is not quite
as fast but I feel I get off the ground about as fast as before. >>
I am new to operating a c/s prop and although all of the literature I've read
says that when you make a power reduction, the throttle comes back, then the
prop pitch control, then mixture.
Contrary to this advice, I find that after liftoff, I prefer to:
1. Establish 120 mph cruise-climb,
2. Come back on the prop control (increase pitch) to obtain 2500 rpm,
3. Bring the throttle back to 25 inHg,
4. Add throttle as necessary to maintain 25 inHg as long as possible to
cruising altitude (<75% power),
5. Bring the prop pitch back to 2300-2400 rpm.
Is this a problem? It sounds like you guys with the cruise fixed pitch props
only get about 2500 rpm at rotation and climb, so I feel justified in bringing
the prop pitch up to get a bigger bite of the air before reducing the power to
a more sedate level.
Doing it the other way around seems odd to me, and I would like to know how
the more experienced pilots feel about my using this technique.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | *** Additional Homecoming Info *** |
********
If you plan on attending Van's Homecoming the weekend, please make note of
the following information. This info is NEW and has not yet been posted on
the rv-list. For those flying in, please pay especially close attention to
what I call the "NOTAP" information (Notice to AirPersons--this is not an
FAA NOTAM however). As before, I ask that you please pass this info on to
those who are "Internet Challenged."
********
Aircraft Arrival Procedures: It is important to observe our special traffic
pattern when arriving.
First, all arrivals should monitor Hillsboro (HIO) ATIS 127.65. Contact
Hillsboro Tower on 119.3 for advisories because Sunset Airpark lies just
within their Class D airspace. Our traffic pattern for either runway is to
the SOUTH SIDE OF THE RUNWAY, 500 AGL (700 MSL). The preferred runway is
6. Avoid flying over the town on the North side!
We will have a temporary ground radio on 122.9 for landing and take off
advisory during peak traffic times. Please switch to this frequency as you
are released by the tower and enter Sunsets pattern. The ILS to HIO goes
right over Sunset, there is an active glider strip just two miles northwest,
and numerous private strips nearby. KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN. Be especially aware
of traffic at Sunset that may be taking off into landing traffic.
We have installed two checkerboards alongside the runway to mark the end of
the landing zone. If you are not on the ground by the time you reach them,
go around. Watch ground personnel for directions to parking.
Departure Procedures: We have had troubles in the past with pilots blasting
people and parked airplanes on start up. Please pull your airplane to an
appropriate spot before starting the engine. The preferred departure is
westbound. Look for traffic! Aircraft may be landing either direction.
Lodging: There is no provision for camping on the airstrip.
Nearby motels include:
Park Dunes, Hillsboro (503) 640-4791
The Dunes, Hillsboro (503) 648-8991
Hallmark Inn, Hillsboro [across from HIO airport. Ask for rooms set aside
for Vans] (503) 648-3500
Holiday Motel, Forest Grove (503) 357-7411
Travel Lodge, Forest Grove (503) 357-9700
The Courtyard, Hillsboro (503) 690-1800
Pets: Many animals are terrified or over-excited by so many people and
noise. Please leave your pet at home.
Picking Up Orders: Orders placed and paid for by the close of business
September 3 may be picked up between 9 am and 1 pm Saturday. This is
empennage kits and catalog orders onlywe will not have the staff to crate
or load wing, fuselage, finish, or QB kits during the Homecoming.
Have a great day,
Jeremy
jwb(at)europa.com
Disclaimer: I have forwarded this information as a courtesy to you.
However, this is not an offical posting (I suppose because of my added
comments at the beginning). For an offical posting, see Van's web site
Updates section. THX!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A power management (was fixed props) |
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> I am new to operating a c/s prop and although all of the literature I've read
> says that when you make a power reduction, the throttle comes back, then the
> prop pitch control, then mixture.
>
> Doing it the other way around seems odd to me, and I would like to know how
> the more experienced pilots feel about my using this technique.
>
> -GV
The oft-recommended technique of reducing power before reducing
prop rpm is to prevent the combination of 'high' MP with 'low' rpm.
which causes high cylinder pressures. This is said to be hard on
the engine because of the high cylinder pressures that it causes.
The 'other part' of this recommendation says to increase
prop RPM before increasing power, for the same reason.
What are the values for 'high' MP and 'low' RPM? Best source for these
numbers is the engine manufacturer. If you ask enough people, you
will undoubtedly hear "MP in inches should not exceed prop RPM in
hundreds", or the term "oversquare" which implies the violation of this
principle. That's a pretty easy rule to remember, which explains why
it is so often repeated, EVEN THOUGH IT IS NOT CORRECT. I have a 172RG
(Lyc 0-360) manual in front of me which shows many "oversquare"
acceptable cruise settings. Here are a few:
@6000 ft
RPM MP %BHP
2300 24 77
2200 24 74
2100 23 67
The oversquare rule is even futher off-base for a turbo'd aircraft,
Here are a few numbers from a Cessna T210L (w/Cont TSIO-520) POH:
@6000 ft
RPM MP %BHP
2400 27.5 74
2300 27.5 70
2200 27.5 65
Sounds like your procedure keeps the combination of MP and RPM well
within the Lycoming recommendations, so I don't see a problem. Just
be careful not to go to full throttle with the prop pulled way back
(which could take you outside Lyc's recommended limits).
Blake
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Horn - RV8 |
I was working on the rudder horn attachment last night and noticed when I
slip the rib in place (I think this is R-404?) I noticed it doesn't clear
the holes by much that I will have to drill from the doubler plate
(certainly not by 2x the hole diameter). I made a notch in the rib to
clear the bolt and it fits snug against the top of the 405 rudder horn,
but it looks like when I drill, the holes will be close to the edge on the
rib. Is this normal?
Thanks
Joe
RV-8 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David S. Hamilton" <hamlton(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can you drill Chrome? |
>I am planning on chroming the grab bar and the roll bar on my RV-8.
Von,
The place that has powder coated all my parts offers a "chrome Look" silver
baked on finish. This is a high tempature paint they use on exhaust
systems in race cars. It looks like chrome but is more durable and lasts
longer. It is less expensive and lighter also. Chrome will look great but
could drive the back seater nuts when the sun glints off it and into his or
her eyes. that is why I used regular powder coat on the roll bar but chose
this "chrome" powdercoat for the tailwheel assembly. It looks great!
Dave Hamilton (80001)
Atlanta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A power management (was fixed props) |
GV,
I believe that the "rule" of reducing manifold pressure first, then rpm
comes from the days of big radial engines. Those engines had a max
allowable manifold pressure for each rpm, and the allowable MP went up with
rpm. These engines were generally operated at the max MP for the current
rpm all the time, to maximize effiency, so when making a power reduction
you had to reduce MP first, or you would exceed the limiting MP as you
reduced the rpm.
On your aircraft, as long as Lycoming has not established a max allowable
MP vs rpm curve, there should be no problem doing what you are doing.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Engineering Test Pilot ex R-1820 driver
Transport Canada
>
>I am new to operating a c/s prop and although all of the literature I've read
>says that when you make a power reduction, the throttle comes back, then the
>prop pitch control, then mixture.
>
>Contrary to this advice, I find that after liftoff, I prefer to:
>1. Establish 120 mph cruise-climb,
>2. Come back on the prop control (increase pitch) to obtain 2500 rpm,
>3. Bring the throttle back to 25 inHg,
>4. Add throttle as necessary to maintain 25 inHg as long as possible to
>cruising altitude (<75% power),
>5. Bring the prop pitch back to 2300-2400 rpm.
>
>Is this a problem? It sounds like you guys with the cruise fixed pitch props
>only get about 2500 rpm at rotation and climb, so I feel justified in
bringing
>the prop pitch up to get a bigger bite of the air before reducing the
power to
>a more sedate level.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Resale Market |
marcus,
i think we would all benifit for knowing our birds worth & resale value, if
the owners don't mind posting their purchase price, they could leave their
name annonomus,
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
Despite my efforts to seal all the rivets in my 6A tank, I have three that
refuse to surrender. Has anyone come up with a good way to seal these after
the tank is complete? My first thought is to slosh the tank (I have not done
so yet).
Also, is it recommended to create a gasket between the fuel sender plate and
the end rib or is this not necessary?
Thanks
Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-(6(A)) power management (was fixed props) |
---Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> << Static is 2100 rpm. It is not quite
> as fast but I feel I get off the ground about as fast as before. >>
>
> I am new to operating a c/s prop and although all of the literature
I've read
> says that when you make a power reduction, the throttle comes back,
then the
> prop pitch control, then mixture.
>
> Contrary to this advice, I find that after liftoff, I prefer to:
> 1. Establish 120 mph cruise-climb,
> 2. Come back on the prop control (increase pitch) to obtain 2500 rpm,
> 3. Bring the throttle back to 25 inHg,
> 4. Add throttle as necessary to maintain 25 inHg as long as possible
to
> cruising altitude (<75% power),
> 5. Bring the prop pitch back to 2300-2400 rpm.
>
> Is this a problem? It sounds like you guys with the cruise fixed
pitch props
> only get about 2500 rpm at rotation and climb, so I feel justified
in bringing
> the prop pitch up to get a bigger bite of the air before reducing
the power to
> a more sedate level.
>
> Doing it the other way around seems odd to me, and I would like to
know how
> the more experienced pilots feel about my using this technique.
>
> -GV
When I depart, I follow a similar procedure except I never pull the
throttle back. I go to 2,500 RPM full throttle @ 105 KIAS. I always
try to run over square. My personal limit is not more than 3 inches
MAP over RPM/100. The Lycoming chart shows (I think) 6 inches MAP
over RPM above (I think) 1900 RPM. A very sweet power setting is
2,100 RPM and 22" MAP. (55% power) Fuel burn is below 6 GPH @ 135
KTAS. There is a good article on this in an old issue of "KitPlanes"
and another in Key Reprints of the Lycoming Flyer.
Check the Lycoming power chart in the Engine Owner's Manual for what
is allowed with your engine.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A power management (was fixed props) |
GV, the procedure you outlined is exactly what I was told to do by an
experienced RV-4 driver and my sometimes CFI. Although I haven't flown much
constant speed stuff either, this seemed to work for me.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>I am new to operating a c/s prop and although all of the literature I've
read
>says that when you make a power reduction, the throttle comes back, then
the
>prop pitch control, then mixture.
>
>Contrary to this advice, I find that after liftoff, I prefer to:
>1. Establish 120 mph cruise-climb,
>2. Come back on the prop control (increase pitch) to obtain 2500 rpm,
>3. Bring the throttle back to 25 inHg,
>4. Add throttle as necessary to maintain 25 inHg as long as possible to
>cruising altitude (<75% power),
>5. Bring the prop pitch back to 2300-2400 rpm.
>
>Is this a problem? It sounds like you guys with the cruise fixed pitch
props
>only get about 2500 rpm at rotation and climb, so I feel justified in
bringing
>the prop pitch up to get a bigger bite of the air before reducing the power
to
>a more sedate level.
>
>Doing it the other way around seems odd to me, and I would like to know how
>the more experienced pilots feel about my using this technique.
>
>-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Angle-of-Attack instruments- there is a difference |
Listers:
In our never-ending quest for value, here is the difference between the LRI
instrument vs the AOA instrument. The LRI is mechanical... and complies with
the KISS principle IMHO. It's also MUCH cheaper- about 1/2 price.
We will be using an LRI instrument on the B-1, Bruce Bohannon's new climb
machine.
Check six!
Mark
This from the crew chief on Pushy Galore:
<< The LRI uses a probe mounted below the wing with the two sensor
ports in it. It can be heated like a pitot tube for icing conditions.
There are two plastic tubes that run up to the instrument panel and that is
it.
AOA: This fancy schmancy doo dad below has a digital processor for the LED
indicator about the size of standard aircraft rack radio. Boooo hissss...
Who needs all that ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Horn - RV8 |
Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
>I was working on the rudder horn attachment last night and noticed when I
slip the rib in place (I think this is R-404?) I noticed it doesn't clear
the holes by much that I will have to drill from the doubler plate...., the
holes will be close to the edge on the rib. Is this normal? <
Yes, since the rib is sandwiched between two other parts (the 405 horn and
802 spar) the edge distance is not critical.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
#$@*^ tank skins
the seven rivets will go into the "z brackets".
Looking at DWG 16 when I was tired, I didn't notice / realize this and
evenly spaced my holes. The result was insufficient edge distance on a
couple of the Z brackets. Fortunatly, Tom at Van's said it was not a
structural problem and to simply add a rivet with proper clearance. Just
one more potential leak.
I found fitting the skin to be very difficult. I kept the straps loose
while I drilled the top of the skin, reaching in to move the ribs as
needed. Strapping the skin tight prooved very difficult. Though my ribs
were as straight as I could make them, the flanges were not centered on the
holes when the skin was tight. After many frustrating attempts, I finally
opened the bottom skin enought to see inside. I reached in and lined the
rib centerlines up with the holes and after several attemptsand a llittle
blood I got all the ribs lined up. The skin is now strapped down tight
with a nice tight fit all around, the leading edge even matches nicely at
the joint. I will drill the bottom this morning.
Somebody PLEASE tell me this is the hardest part of building the plane! I
spent several hours in my attempts, hopefully the second one will go beter
now that I have a system.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A power management (was fixed props) |
Hi,
Just wanted to review my training/reading/experiences re: using
controllable pitch props.
The standard procedure for using a controllable pitch prop is to keep
the manifold pressure under the prop rpm......this would mean bringing
the manifold pressure (throttle) back to 25" after takeoff followed by
bringing the prop back to 2500 rpm.
To go to climb configuration from cruise first increase prop rpm and then
manifold pressure to 25" (you'll need to keep increasing manifold pressure
as the plane climbs to maintain 25" - until you run out of throttle at
higher
altitudes unless you have a turbocharger in your plane).
Hope this helps.......
Paul Bilodeau
----------
> From: Leslie B. Williams <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A power management (was fixed props)
> Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 9:28 AM
>
>
> GV, the procedure you outlined is exactly what I was told to do by an
> experienced RV-4 driver and my sometimes CFI. Although I haven't flown
much
> constant speed stuff either, this seemed to work for me.
>
> Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>
>
> >I am new to operating a c/s prop and although all of the literature I've
> read
> >says that when you make a power reduction, the throttle comes back, then
> the
> >prop pitch control, then mixture.
> >
> >Contrary to this advice, I find that after liftoff, I prefer to:
> >1. Establish 120 mph cruise-climb,
> >2. Come back on the prop control (increase pitch) to obtain 2500 rpm,
> >3. Bring the throttle back to 25 inHg,
> >4. Add throttle as necessary to maintain 25 inHg as long as possible to
> >cruising altitude (<75% power),
> >5. Bring the prop pitch back to 2300-2400 rpm.
> >
> >Is this a problem? It sounds like you guys with the cruise fixed pitch
> props
> >only get about 2500 rpm at rotation and climb, so I feel justified in
> bringing
> >the prop pitch up to get a bigger bite of the air before reducing the
power
> to
> >a more sedate level.
> >
> >Doing it the other way around seems odd to me, and I would like to know
how
> >the more experienced pilots feel about my using this technique.
> >
> >-GV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | charles(at)onramp.net (charles young) |
| Subject: | Re: Thank You all for the step feedback |
You will never regret adding the step. Especially when you get a little bit
older (like me) it is a blessing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
<3.0.1.16.19980902193932.2b8f054c(at)dtc.net>
>
>Sorry Bob,
>I was thinking of a thermistor!
>Ed Cole
Understand. We're just all looking out for each other here.
Thanks for joining in.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
> A question for Bob Nuckolls that may be of interest to RVers.
> On the 6A that I'm helping with, belonging to Charlie Tyrrel of Gillette,
>WY,
. . . just punched Charlie into our database to get an R8 book
and wondered if I'd mis-spelled his last name . . thanks for the
heads up!
> . . .we're going to use toggle switches for the mags as opposed to a keyed
>mag switch. The left toggle will be a three position: off, left mag on,
>spring loaded to start.
This will work. Some builders have elected to use spring loaded,
3-position switches on both sides so that the switches reside in the
same position for both OFF and ON . . . it's a consistency thing.
>. . . . . The right mag will be off and right mag on, a two
>postion switch. I assume that the right mag switch will be off during the
>starting procedure.
Yes . . in fact we use the SECOND pole of the right mag switch
to disable the starter function when the switch is ON.
> . . We'll be using the Laser ignition. Will this toggle
>switch arrangement work as described with the Laser?
Yes. Do the Laser mags switch like classic magnetos? I.e.
close a switch to disable the mag? If you have to close
a switch to ENABLE the mag (apply bus volts instead of
opening a ground) then you'll need to use a 2 dash 50
switch ON-ON-(ON) function instead of the more common
2 dash 5 switch ON-OFF-(ON).
> Also, diodes are recommended on the battery and starter relays, I think to
>help protect keyed, magneto switches. Van's has these for sale in the
>catalog and I have installed these on my six. Are these diodes required
>when using toggle switches for the mags?
Yes. The diodes catch spikes from the contactor coils . . . same
problem irrespective of type of ignition system.
>. . . . Bob, do you or any listers have a
>source for the three postion: off-on-spring loaded on toggle switches. We
>intend to use this type of switch for the left mag and also on the fuel
>boost pump with the spring loaded-on postion being used to open the primer
>relay.
We've been supplying toggle switches over an above our catalog
listings for several years. R8 to the book will have a detailed
description of various toggle switch functions and how they can
be use in system design. We'll be pleased to order switches
we don't stock . . . The special switches like 2 dash 50 are
a little breathaking ($32 last time I looked). I can get them
much less expensive but I have to buy 100 at a time. Just not
in a cash flow position yet to make that investment . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Young <gyoung(at)bcm.tmc.edu> |
There is an FAR that addresses windows. It requires 70% light transmission
for front and side windows (actually it very specifically defines the field
of view it covers). In effect it is very similar to the window tinting
regs for autos. The big IF, like all other certification regs, is whether
it applies to experimentals. I suspect it would be like strobes, i.e.
depends on your inspector.
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
:
>
> IS IT LEGAL TO HAVE YOUR COCKPIT WINDOWS TINTED?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
Rick
There is a 2 part epoxy like matyerial that I have used that will seal
weeping from the outside. It seems to set when exposed to fuel. If
you are interested in further info I'll get it off the package I have
in the hanger.
regards
allen
N5AD
From: "Rick & Barbara Osgood" [SMTP:randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com] AT
MSXGATE@CCMAIL
Subject: RV-List: Weeping rivets
Despite my efforts to seal all the rivets in my 6A tank, I have three
that refuse to surrender. Has anyone come up with a good way to seal
these after the tank is complete? My first thought is to slosh the
tank (I have not done so yet).
Also, is it recommended to create a gasket between the fuel sender
plate and the end rib or is this not necessary?
Thanks
Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Angle-of-Attack instruments- there is a difference |
>
>Listers:
>In our never-ending quest for value, here is the difference between the LRI
>instrument vs the AOA instrument. The LRI is mechanical... and complies with
>the KISS principle IMHO. It's also MUCH cheaper- about 1/2 price.
The RiteangleII AOA indicator is cheaper than the LRI ($474 vs. $710). However,
it is electromechanical vs. mechanical.
Rob (RV-6Q).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bell, Bruce B." <rv4bell(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Burlington, Colorado Fly-In |
I missed the info on the Burlington fly-in. Would someone send it to me.
Thank you
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
email- rv4bell(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson, John" <john.anderson(at)spcf.siemens.com> |
I have hull insurance on my rv-4 which does not include in motion coverage,
meaning when the prop is spinning I am uninsured. The question I have is
that why would an experimental cost more to insure just sitting there than
any other conventional aircraft. I have this told to me by my insurance
broker, but they don't give me any real concrete answer.
I am currently paying $700 a year for hull insurance on a value of $40,000.
Does this premium seem to be in line with what you have come across? What
do others of you pay that have flying aircraft. I just can't seem to fathom
that a $40,000 Cessna versus a $40,000 experiment has a lower hull rate.
John C. Anderson
Siemens Power Corporation
1040 S. 70th Street
Milwaukee, WI 53214
(414) 475-4201
(414) 475-4461 - fax
E-mail: john.anderson(at)spcf.siemens.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I'm building a RV-6A, so maybe I don't know. I am always finding new
"hardest parts" as I go along. Just this morning I tried to install my
seal belt brackets into my new fuselage and found that one of the holes
I drilled in the rear spar mounting brackets are partially covered by
one of the seat ribs. In retrospect, it should have been obvious. Now
I have to move the bracket to a new location, make sure that new holes
that I am going to drill will have proper spacing from rivets and other
holes previously drilled, figure out how to get my angle drill down in
there to drill, wonder if I have the right stubby bit to make the 3/16
hole, and .......
We spend so much of our time trying to figure out what to do and so
little time actually doing something.
By the way, in reply to an earlier post about sealing leaky rivets in
the tank, I once made a spit-ball sized wad of Proseal and mounded it up
over the head of a poorly-sealed pop rivet in the rear baffle. It
worked so far. Of course I am not flying anywhere in this thing anytime
soon.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Somebody PLEASE tell me this is the hardest part of
building the plane!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
I began to fly because I was afraid. Nobody else I knew of was doing it. It
was costly, risky, adventurous and not approved of by my folks. Something
though, was pushing me onward. I learned to love it and it gave me
something back. Pride, appreciation, and self esteem to face down
trepidation.
A while ago, I pushed the RV out to the grass and a fellow came by,
full of questions, and declared proudly that he had once flown an Ercoupe,
coast to coast and back...Awesome, for I too, had flown an Ercoupe to
Mexico and back when I was a kid....I had to wonder what fires kids today ?
Where is the courage and adventure ?....I thought of a time when a row of
20 Mustangs were retired and parked on the grass, I got into one and sat
with canopy closed and hands on stick and throttle, visualized the boys who
sat here before and what they may have experienced, and wondered if I would
have the kind of courage that they had. The guns were now cold and the
contrails were long gone, and I sat in that row of 20 Mustangs and thought
back.
I read once where in the Great War, most of the aces with big scores
were teen-agers, frequently dead before their 20th birthday.
Now, decades later, I was to summon up courage once more to try to be
at one with an airplane that was more than anything I had experienced
before. With each flight, we got to know each other better and time and
thoughts were allowed to enjoy more of what was outside the cockpit.
Time to look at the wings, and the color of them, the fields below,
and the shading of clouds along the way. I climbed to 9,000, throttled back
to turn and come back home, and glided quietly and thought how beautiful it
all looked and how we too, must look beautiful, ruby, burgundy, and white,
up against the blue. I thought of the serenity of flight by the wonderful
flying scenes in "Out of Africa" and "The English Patient" and the
inspiring music of the background. This would make anyone with a soul stir
his passion for pure flight. This craft slipping along the halls of air,
this cathedral of the skies. It is to weep.
I read too of a man, who, this month, is about to fly a 70 year
old biplane from London, back to Australia. An Avro Avian, retracing the
steps of those like Antoine de St. Exupery who wrote in "Wind, Sand and
Stars" of crossing the cold desert at night and the furnace of the timeless
plains by day, all on a compass and map (if any). The drive and the courage
is still out there in some. It is a reckoning with ones self.
I am a teen no more and I still need to summon up nerve sometimes,
but the winning of it still thrills me and the purity of flying is ever
fresh to me. The RV lets me extend myself and brings me up to where the
world is broad and grand and riotous with color and sensual delights.
Landing once again is a handshake of two companions who have enjoyed
each others company until the next time.
Thank you Van, thank you RV, and thank you all out there.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Bracket (was Re. Throttle Brackett..) |
Those of you with O-360 and MA4-5 carb wondering about using Van's
throttle bracket -- you might want to hold off getting a bracket for
just a little bit.
I have discussed this with several people at Vans, and the bottom line
is that this bracket wasn't really designed for the O-360 and there are
some issues with its use on that engine/carb.
They now have my carbeurator and are using it to prototype a bracket
for the O-360. It will be similar to the other one but will mount
between the carb and the sump.
This bracket will still have the relatively short distance between the
mount point and the throttle/mixture arms, so if you are getting cables
from ACS for example, you will still have to get them custom sized.
I will post info on cable lengths when I get this all sorted out.
Randall Henderson
Engineering Design Team, Inc.
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | RV vs Cozy trade-offs |
>>> Ability to put it down in a field in
>>> an emergency with minimum
>>> damage and risk. RV (+)
>
>
>I was never "religious" in the plastic vs. metal argument BEFORE I
>put my RV-4 in the trees at Chapel Hill and walked away. Landing at
50mph
>and the energy absorbing crumple effect of the aluminum construction
made me a true believer.
>
>The fact I'm writing this at all is proof enough for me...
>
>Richard E. Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT - in rebuild - will fly by 2000
>Oak Hill, VA
>rbibb(at)fore.com
=====================================
Amashing the news media hadn't had anything to say about it.
If you had decided to land in the only field you had, I bet we would have
heard about it.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | HVLP "systems" - reply to "HPLV Sprayers" |
> Bill Thomas (wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net) asked about "a complete HPLV [HVLP] spray
unit
> they have used and are interested in selling"
Bill, your post said HPLV but I'm responding as if you meant HVLP (hi
vol, low pressure, not hi press...)
I use a DeVilbiss HVLP gun bought from a PPG auto paint store for about
$189 a year ago. I use it with a typical air compressor - Sears 20 gal
tank. The tank runs at 100 psi, I turn the "out" pressure down to 70,
then adjust the valve on bottom of gun's inlet to read 8 or 10 psi at
the gage screwed in the heel (handle) of the spray gun. That "heel
gage" comes with the gun.
I feel it is real flim-flamery for these people to continue to show up
at Oshkosh and Sun N Fun selling their big "vacuum cleaner style" air
supply units, turbines, or whatever they call them. They are totally
unnecessary. Just use the HVLP spray gun with the same air supply you'd
use for an old fashioned "high pressure, lots of overspray" gun.
I found through trial and error that the two knobs on back of my gun
should be set as follows: The top knob, "pattern" lets you choose
either "round pattern" or "fan" (a vertical line of paint) - "fan" gives
you much better control to eliminate getting too much paint and getting
runs.
The next knob is "wetness". Full CW (in) is "dry" - no paint, just
air. There are 6 turns until the screw comes out. I use 3/4 of a turn
from full dry and 8-10psi and have to make 2 to 3 reasonably slow passes
to get a 0.7 mil thick primer coat. (I started off "in the middle",
i.e., 3 turns out on wetness, and REALLY got lots of runs and fisheyes.
At 3/4 turn wet, you have perfect control of how much paint is going on
and you can see it.
Good luck.
David Carter, Nederland, Texas
RV-6 left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Courage to fly |
damn your good !!! glad you stayed with us corsair !!!
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attack instruments- there is a difference |
<< The RiteangleII AOA indicator is cheaper than the LRI ($474 vs. $710).
However, it is electromechanical vs. mechanical.
Rob (RV-6Q). >>
Wait a minute- are there THREE different lift instrument manufacturers? I re-
read the email from Linda Frantz- she states their cost as $1450. Gary tells
me the LRI runs about half that, so $710 is in line with that. Tell me more
about this $474 job! Is it simply a stall indicator, vs a lift indicator? The
LRI and the AOA tells you at which angle your wing is flying: how close you
are to stall, or max L/D, etc.
The quest for value continues....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More on Cozy vs RV trades |
I received a lot of thoughtful responses to my question on choosing the
aircraft I would like building and flying. I would summarize the answers as
"If you want a metal plane, its the RV, but first decide what the end
application is and what construction method you like (can tolerate)"
I would like a plane suited to long distance travel. I guess that mainly
comes down to sound levels and comfort since both aircraft have good range and
economy. Has anyone measured the typical sound levels in RVs?
I took a ride in a 172 with an O-360 and constant speed prop the other day and
was appalled at the noise level. How much was engine and how much prop noise
- I couldn't really say, but after 45 minutes, I felt as if I had spent an
evening at a rock concert. I guess anything is tolerable with enough ear
plugs and headphones (the instructor used both at the same time), but noise
plays a big part in fatigue, and hence safety.
Has anyone on this list installed an exhaust pipe / muffler system on their RV
in an attempt to get cockpit noise levels down. Is it even feasible and would
it provide a measurable noise reduction if a builder had low noise as a design
goal?
Thanks for the advice.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
Jmw116(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> IS IT LEGAL TO HAVE YOUR COCKPIT WINDOWS TINTED?
FAR Section 23.775(e): The windshield and side windows forward of the pilot's
back when the pilot is seated in the normal flight position must have a luminous
transmittance value of not less than 70 percent.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
>Brian, I believe the RV canopies all come tinted as standard. You have
to
>request clear. At least that is the way it was the last I heard/read.
I
>think there was an article in the RVator or here on the list concerning
>ultraviolet ray exposure that explained about this.
>
>Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>
>
Les,
Speaking of UV exposure, will the tint filter out enough to avoid
sunburning the occupants? Being a fair skinned person, this is a
concern. Arriving "poached and blistered" doesn't sound like fun.
Brian Denk
RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
> There is a 2 part epoxy like matyerial that I have used that will seal
> weeping from the outside. It seems to set when exposed to fuel. If
> you are interested in further info I'll get it off the package I have
> in the hanger.
I think it's safe to say that there are many people on this list who
would be interested in this information.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Courage to fly |
Corsair wrote:
>
> I began to fly because I was afraid. Nobody else I knew of was doing it. It .
.
> .
>Thank you Van, thank you RV, and thank you all out there.....
And thank you, "Corsair."
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weeping rivets |
>Despite my efforts to seal all the rivets in my 6A tank, I have three
that
>refuse to surrender. Has anyone come up with a good way to seal these
after
>the tank is complete? My first thought is to slosh the tank (I have not
done
>so yet).
>
>Also, is it recommended to create a gasket between the fuel sender
plate and
>the end rib or is this not necessary?
>
>
>Thanks
>Rick Osgood
Rick,
Been there myself..only one rivet, however :)
I drilled out the offending, weepy lil bugger, opened up the hole to #30
by drilling verrry slowly to avoid sending debris into the tank. Then, I
cleaned the surrounding skin very well, scuffed it with scotchbrite pad
and installed a sealed end pop rivet with a healthy dab of proseal. No
more leak. This is my chosen path to leak-free tank enlightenment.
Hang in there.
Brian "fuselage lookin like a canoe" Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I just can't seem to fathom
that a $40,000 Cessna versus a $40,000 experiment has a lower hull rate.
>>
I can tell you the argument I got from the insurance company for insurance
for my last project, a kit car. Their belief is - if I drive a Honda and it
breaks, they can choose from an unlimited number of people who know how to fix
Hondas. If I break my kit car, they have to assume that I won't be the person
that repairs it, and they have to go find someone who can manufacture all the
required parts from raw lumps of plastic and metal, with an arbitrary level of
documentation, and no factory or dealer to call if something doesn't make
sense. That cost / risk is very difficult to quantify and therefore,
regardless of whether the actual cost of damage repair would be lower, higher
or the same, the premium will reflect the uncertainty. If you put your Cessna
down hard and broke something, they could go buy the pieces and find an A&P
who knew exactly how to fix it. If you put your RV down hard, what would they
do?
Of course, if your RV was damaged by a storm while sitting on a field, they
would face the same problems, so their approach is not entirely consistent.
But, I would view that as a partial win for you, rather than an unreasonable
response from them. I guess the risk is lower, and the people in the
insurance company that set the odds are willing to take that bet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Acker" <robert.acker(at)ingrammicro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attack instruments- there is a difference |
>
>Wait a minute- are there THREE different lift instrument manufacturers? I re-
>read the email from Linda Frantz- she states their cost as $1450. Gary tells
>me the LRI runs about half that, so $710 is in line with that. Tell me more
>about this $474 job! Is it simply a stall indicator, vs a lift indicator? The
>LRI and the AOA tells you at which angle your wing is flying: how close you
>are to stall, or max L/D, etc.
RiteangleII (www.riteangle.com)
Good - Cheapest, $474.
AOA measurement for stall, best glide, Vx, Vy, etc.
The designer/owner has absolutely fantastic customer support.
Bad - Senses AOA with a small vane hooked up to a potentiometer.
I find the vane somewhat unpleasing to the eye, on a wingtip may get lots
of "curious observer rash".
Lift enhancement devices (flaps, etc) require a different calibration,
accomplished via microswitch
on this unit.
LRI (www.riteangle.com)
Good - Has a usage history (when queried for it, company response is "we
don't keep that around").
Moderate pricing.
Measures a combo of "AOA and Lift Reserve".
Clean install via wing-mounted pitot-like sensor.
Bad - I found the company pre-sales support the worst I have ever experienced...from
ANY company.
Rob (RV-6Q...leaning towards Riteangle...the electronic goody is just too expensive).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I find a nice compromise to this question is to use the clear canopy and
put "slap on" Wal-Mart, no glue, electrostatic adhesion, plastic on
above my head. A roll costs about $12 and you can get MANY pieces,
enough for several airplanes, or changes from one roll. It stays in
place nicely and is very easy to apply; no water, squeegies, etc.The
stuff comes in several "shades" or densities. I found a "smoke" type
that shades well, yet could be seen through if need be...just my idea...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP "systems" - reply to "HPLV Sprayers" |
To get rid of "fish-eyes" use SMOTHIE found at professional paint stores....also
wash the
serfice down with correct solvent to remove oil.....
David Carter wrote:
>
> > Bill Thomas (wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net) asked about "a complete HPLV [HVLP] spray
unit
> > they have used and are interested in selling"
>
> Bill, your post said HPLV but I'm responding as if you meant HVLP (hi
> vol, low pressure, not hi press...)
>
> I use a DeVilbiss HVLP gun bought from a PPG auto paint store for about
> $189 a year ago. I use it with a typical air compressor - Sears 20 gal
> tank. The tank runs at 100 psi, I turn the "out" pressure down to 70,
> then adjust the valve on bottom of gun's inlet to read 8 or 10 psi at
> the gage screwed in the heel (handle) of the spray gun. That "heel
> gage" comes with the gun.
>
> I feel it is real flim-flamery for these people to continue to show up
> at Oshkosh and Sun N Fun selling their big "vacuum cleaner style" air
> supply units, turbines, or whatever they call them. They are totally
> unnecessary. Just use the HVLP spray gun with the same air supply you'd
> use for an old fashioned "high pressure, lots of overspray" gun.
>
> I found through trial and error that the two knobs on back of my gun
> should be set as follows: The top knob, "pattern" lets you choose
> either "round pattern" or "fan" (a vertical line of paint) - "fan" gives
> you much better control to eliminate getting too much paint and getting
> runs.
>
> The next knob is "wetness". Full CW (in) is "dry" - no paint, just
> air. There are 6 turns until the screw comes out. I use 3/4 of a turn
> from full dry and 8-10psi and have to make 2 to 3 reasonably slow passes
> to get a 0.7 mil thick primer coat. (I started off "in the middle",
> i.e., 3 turns out on wetness, and REALLY got lots of runs and fisheyes.
> At 3/4 turn wet, you have perfect control of how much paint is going on
> and you can see it.
>
> Good luck.
>
> David Carter, Nederland, Texas
> RV-6 left elevator
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
Please note that homebuilts do not have to comply with FAR 23, unless some
other reg calls up a specific FAR 23 requirement. I am not aware of any
regulatory requirements in this area, but common sense would dictate
meeting the 70% transmittance requirement if you were going to be approved
to fly at night.
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
>>
>Jmw116(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> IS IT LEGAL TO HAVE YOUR COCKPIT WINDOWS TINTED?
>
>FAR Section 23.775(e): The windshield and side windows forward of the
pilot's
>back when the pilot is seated in the normal flight position must have a
luminous
>transmittance value of not less than 70 percent.
>
>Best wishes,
>
>Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit noise - was More on Cozy vs RV trades |
Peter,
If cockpit noise is the concern, I would strongly recommend that you try a
good set of active noise reduction (ANR) headsets. I used to borrow a
friends Trinidad, which was equiped with Telex ANR headsets (I can't
remember which model). They made a tremendous difference. When you turned
them on it was like stepping into a tomb. You could still hear the engine,
but at a much, much lower volume. The ANR headsets made a huge difference
in the fatigue level.
As far as mufflers go, the Germans have very strigent external noise
requirements. Check out the archives - I recall a German builder a while
back who described a muffler system that he was happy with.
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca
>
<--stuff snipped out-->
>I took a ride in a 172 with an O-360 and constant speed prop the other day
and
>was appalled at the noise level. How much was engine and how much prop noise
>- I couldn't really say, but after 45 minutes, I felt as if I had spent an
>evening at a rock concert. I guess anything is tolerable with enough ear
>plugs and headphones (the instructor used both at the same time), but noise
>plays a big part in fatigue, and hence safety.
>
>Has anyone on this list installed an exhaust pipe / muffler system on
their RV
>in an attempt to get cockpit noise levels down. Is it even feasible and
would
>it provide a measurable noise reduction if a builder had low noise as a
design
>goal?
>
>Thanks for the advice.
>
>Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
I am an aviation insurance broker (Aon Aviation) who specializes in aircraft
product manufacturers, however I do have experience in this area.
There are many factors which effect insurance premiums. Is your aircraft
tied-down outside or is it hangared? How much total time do you have? How
much time do you have in tail draggers? How is your loss history? What
insurance company are you with?
In general, Ground Risks Only (GRO) coverage is undesirable to an insurance
company. You will often find that for only a small additional premium you can
have full flight risks. Additionally, insurance for homebuilt aircraft IS
higher than the same coverage for spam-cans. Why, because the insurance
companies can charge more (there are only several companies who write such
coverage so there is little competition/incentive to sell it cheep). This is
even more unfair when you consider that the loss ratio for Cessnas is about
the same as RVs, however we have half the seats and the cost to repair is
much cheaper.
Until one of the major insurance companies starts to write insurance for
homebuilt aircraft the price will remain higher than the same coverage for
spam-cans. I am working with the homebuilt industry and several insurance
companies on a remedy to this situation. Ill keep you all posted.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Courage to fly |
In a message dated 9/3/98 3:06:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tinckler(at)axionet.com writes:
<< Thank you Van, thank you RV, and thank you all out there..... >>
And thank you for returning to the list.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Walsh, John" <JWalsh1(at)unifi.com> |
| Subject: | Angle-of-Attack instruments- there is a difference |
> Rob (RV-6Q...leaning towards Riteangle...the electronic goody is just too
> expensive).
>
They are all Too Expensive if you ask me!
BTW, Doesn't the LRI seem to be essentially the same setup that Dr.
Powell came up with in '79? He used an old ASI for display and they use a
gauge of some sort.
I recently searched the archive on this subject and could not find
any evidence of anyone who has FLOWN with either the Powell AOA indicator or
any of the microswitch stall warning set ups. In both cases, it would seem
to be very important to have accurate placement of the sensor. So, does
anybody have any detailed info. on a setup that works?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
<41116842.35ed5cc4(at)aol.com>
At 07:46 PM 9/2/98, you wrote:
>
>
>>A diode clamps the reverse voltage spike right a zero (well, the forward
>>voltage drop of the diode which is usually around 0.7V) and a metal oxide
>>varistor (MOV) doesn't clamp until tens or hundreds of volts since most are
>>designed for clamping spikes on telephone lines and/or power lines.
>
> When you use MOV's DESIGNED to clamp telephone line and power line
> spikes, the voltage at which the device begins to absorb energy is
> indeed on the order of 200 volts. When you buy 14-v transorbs, the
> clamping voltage is about 20 volts.
But clamping the reverse spike at zero tends to keep that reverse voltage
spike completely out of your electronics. Sure, properly designed
electronics will dissipate a reverse spike on the order of 20V and of
relatively short duration (low energy) but not all electronics are well
designed. I like the warm feeling I get knowing that, short of the diode
dying open, that reverse spike never goes more than about 1V in the wrong
direction thus keeping its energy really low.
Sure, MOVs are great when you are trying to clamp spikes on an AC circuit
where you might not know ahead of time which direction the spike is going
to go and you still have to accommodate normal voltage going in both
directions (polarity) but we have the good fortune in our airplanes of
being able to say, "any DC power more negative than ground is bad." Plain
ol' silicon power diodes work great, are cheap, and are readily available.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: My "Great" Titanium "Ti-downs", and the RV-List |
I bought 2 sets. One for my RV6A under construction and one as a gift for a freind
who lends me his 172 now and then. I got to use the ones for the 172 a couple
weeks ago when we were camping up on Beaver Island in Lake Michigan. It
was quite windy (you know how windy airports can be, think of a flat surface 40+
miles long for the wind to get going) and the tie downs held it fine. I was
surprised at how easily they twist into the ground with the bar provided. When
I gave the plane back, the owner was impressed with them too. Several times
he said "Titanium, no kidding"
Brian Eckstein
----------
>
>
> Greetings RViators,
> I'm Randy Simpson, owner of Airtime Mfg., maker of the Titanium "Ti-downs"
> that many RV owners/builders already have purchased. I've been lurking on
> this list since April, and even though I'm not building an RV (yet), I've
> learned alot about what's involved in building a trick plane like the RV's
> and (more importantly to me at this time) is hearing about how the RV's fly,
> and the enjoyment the RV pilots experience (Corsair comes to mind here).
>
> First of all, ALL my dealings with my RV-List customers have been a
> pleasure. Since I started selling the Ti-downs via the internet in April,
> RV-Listers have been my only customers, as I had trouble keeping up with the
> RV orders alone. I've had a policy that if I had the Ti-downs in stock, I'd
> send them out immediately, and wait for the check to come in (at least till
> I got burned). Nearly all my friends and family thought I was NUTS to be so
> trusting. I'm happy to report that EVERY set I've shipped, the checks came
> in as promised. KUDOS to you!
>
> It seems that if you've got a "better mousetrap", the world will beat a
> path to your mailbox if you have a website also...
>
> Of all the sets of Ti-downs I've sold (havn't tallied up how many lately,
> but probably 50-60 sets), none have been returned because they bent, or
> broke. That's a good sign. I've been really testing them this summer, as
> I've been doing alot of air-camping, using the Ti-downs whenever I can (even
> if there are regular airport tie-downs already there). I've put 110 hours on
> my Carrera Ultralight since the last week of May of this year (it's just:
> work (fly), work (fly), work (fly).
>
> I'm all caught up with my backorders now, and have some sets in stock,
> ready for immediately delivery. My son David and I spent the WHOLE weekend
> in our shop "pounding out Ti-downs", despite the perfect flying weather.
> We're trying to earn enough money for his tuition at a private school. It's
> really great to be working side by side with my 14 yr old son, who will most
> likely fly solo for the first time at the Alvord Desert (in SE Oregon)
> fly-in a couple of weeks from now (weather permitting, of course).
>
> I'd like to hear from you if you have anything intresting to report about
> the Ti-downs (good or bad). You guys that used the Ti-downs at Oshkosh,
> how'd they work there? Please reply to me off list, or on list if you think
> other Listers could benefit from your experience.
>
> I'm gonna donate a set (or "kit") to Matt Dralle as "thanks" for giving us
> this excellent List. Thank you Matt, I appreciate it...
>
> Also, Sam Buchanan will have a set soon for his torture test/evaluation.
> Look for his report in his RV Journal soon...
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> Randy Simpson
> Airtime Mfg.
> http://www.airtimemfg.com
> Current Ultralight Pilot
> Future RV Owner/Pilot (I'm sure)
> Brownsville, OR
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com (Shelby Smith) |
| Subject: | Audio Panels & PS Engineering |
Listers,
I sent a message to PS engineering(their website asks for ideas) concerning
modifying King Audio panels upgrading them with additional features and/or
intercoms. There are a gazillion of those out there and I have one. I have
a KMA 24 and want to use it(primarily for the marker beacon), but would
like to have a stereo intercom as well. Here is their response.
Shelby
GREAT idea, I actually had never thought of that. But after mulling it
around for a while, the problem is that there isn't any extra pins that the
intercom would require. The other problem for certified aircraft is the
KMA24 would no longer be TSO'd if we were to modify it anyway.
Thanks a lot for your idea, keep them coming, that's how we satisfy so many
customers.
Sincerely,
Mark
PS Engineering
Mark,
I think there might be a pretty good market among Homebuilders, also I
imagine there are lots of certified aircraft that would like to upgrade(to
one of your new units). There's the rub what do you do with all the units
replaced by your unit. Well, you retro them and sell them to homebuilders.
I don't know about the pin situation, but that would be a minor situation
for guys like you.
Still thinking,
Shelby in Nashville
I just spoke with our VP of Marketing and he likes your idea. We'll talk
with our engineers and see what they think
Again, thanks for your input.
Sincerely,
Mark Scheuer
PS Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attack instruments- there is a difference |
><< The LRI uses a probe mounted below the wing with the two sensor
> ports in it. It can be heated like a pitot tube for icing conditions.
> There are two plastic tubes that run up to the instrument panel and that is
> it.
>
>AOA: This fancy schmancy doo dad below has a digital processor for the LED
> indicator about the size of standard aircraft rack radio. Boooo hissss...
> Who needs all that ?
Hmm, having lived in both mechanical and microprocessor worlds for doing
computation, I frankly like the microprocessor one. Much simpler and much
easier to calibrate.
So, does Bruce Bohannon use standard mechanical magnetos or does he use one
of those fancy schmancy electronic ignition doo dads with a digital
processor about the size of a standard aircraft rack radio?
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
Brian: You should call Aero Sound Shield...they have a gold film that
blocks out 99% UV, but very minimal light...it is not cheap, but if that is
what you are into, then it is the only way to go...
Their number is 818-374-5355
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Waiting on finish kit
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>
>
>
>
>
>>Brian, I believe the RV canopies all come tinted as standard. You have
>to
>>request clear. At least that is the way it was the last I heard/read.
>I
>>think there was an article in the RVator or here on the list concerning
>>ultraviolet ray exposure that explained about this.
>>
>>Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>>
>>
>>
>
>Les,
>
>Speaking of UV exposure, will the tint filter out enough to avoid
>sunburning the occupants? Being a fair skinned person, this is a
>concern. Arriving "poached and blistered" doesn't sound like fun.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nick Nafsinger <n.nafsinger(at)mci2000.com> |
Corsair your visions are wonderful.. glad you stayed with us! And yes,
there are still kids out there with dreams like yours. I'm one of them.
21, planing starting an -8 in the next year. 230hours (GA), 950hours
(Ultralights) Total flying time so far, not much but it's a start! Keep up
the good work!!!! :)
Nick Nafsinger
-8 planning stages.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Corsair
Sent: September 3, 1998 1:43 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Courage to fly
I began to fly because I was afraid. Nobody else I knew of was doing it. It
was costly, risky, adventurous and not approved of by my folks. Something
though, was pushing me onward. I learned to love it and it gave me
something back. Pride, appreciation, and self esteem to face down
trepidation.
A while ago, I pushed the RV out to the grass and a fellow came by,
full of questions, and declared proudly that he had once flown an Ercoupe,
coast to coast and back...Awesome, for I too, had flown an Ercoupe to
Mexico and back when I was a kid....I had to wonder what fires kids today ?
Where is the courage and adventure ?....I thought of a time when a row of
20 Mustangs were retired and parked on the grass, I got into one and sat
with canopy closed and hands on stick and throttle, visualized the boys who
sat here before and what they may have experienced, and wondered if I would
have the kind of courage that they had. The guns were now cold and the
contrails were long gone, and I sat in that row of 20 Mustangs and thought
back.
I read once where in the Great War, most of the aces with big scores
were teen-agers, frequently dead before their 20th birthday.
Now, decades later, I was to summon up courage once more to try to be
at one with an airplane that was more than anything I had experienced
before. With each flight, we got to know each other better and time and
thoughts were allowed to enjoy more of what was outside the cockpit.
Time to look at the wings, and the color of them, the fields below,
and the shading of clouds along the way. I climbed to 9,000, throttled back
to turn and come back home, and glided quietly and thought how beautiful it
all looked and how we too, must look beautiful, ruby, burgundy, and white,
up against the blue. I thought of the serenity of flight by the wonderful
flying scenes in "Out of Africa" and "The English Patient" and the
inspiring music of the background. This would make anyone with a soul stir
his passion for pure flight. This craft slipping along the halls of air,
this cathedral of the skies. It is to weep.
I read too of a man, who, this month, is about to fly a 70 year
old biplane from London, back to Australia. An Avro Avian, retracing the
steps of those like Antoine de St. Exupery who wrote in "Wind, Sand and
Stars" of crossing the cold desert at night and the furnace of the timeless
plains by day, all on a compass and map (if any). The drive and the courage
is still out there in some. It is a reckoning with ones self.
I am a teen no more and I still need to summon up nerve sometimes,
but the winning of it still thrills me and the purity of flying is ever
fresh to me. The RV lets me extend myself and brings me up to where the
world is broad and grand and riotous with color and sensual delights.
Landing once again is a handshake of two companions who have enjoyed
each others company until the next time.
Thank you Van, thank you RV, and thank you all out there.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jensen, Keith (MC R&D)" <KJensen(at)simplot.com> |
You wrote:
>
> The aft bagged bulkhead was opened up and reinforced for the
> passengers legs to fit further back into the fuselage. I personally
> don't see enough room for two avg. sized adults but you can fit a
> couple of kids back there with no problem.
>
>
In case some are unaware, the two rear seats face backwards. It is
visible, with some difficulty, in pictures I've seen on the Internet
(don't ask me where). From a CG point of view, that makes sense.
Personally, I'm not sure how many adults like to ride backwards - I
don't, for one.
Keith Jensen
#25285, 6A rudder
Pocatello, Idaho
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Courage to fly |
In a message dated 9/3/98 2:12:22 Central Daylight Time, tinckler(at)axionet.com
writes:
Austin Tinkler
You never cease to amaze me!!! I won't say your talents are wasted on the RV-
Listers, for I would not want to endure their wrath, nor mine.
Your words are so descriptive, and so inspirational, that I would like to see
you compose something for the "Young Eagles Association." I think things like
this, are the very thought provoking food for thought that might swing some
reluctant young individual to join in the fun of flying.
Regards
Your friend
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | 23 months later ... |
... I am strapping my 10-year-old son, Seth, into the back seat; the
four-point harness and cloth helmet snug.
Feet in; I lower myself down; headset on; straps tight; canopy down, the
latch makes that creak as it slides home; master on accompanied by the
telltale "clunk" from the firewall; annunciator lights on the panel; the
buzz as the needle-ball winds up.
I wait about 3 seconds savoring the lights and sounds. Mixture forward,
throttle forward and back, jab at the starter, and the engine catches as
the first blade goes by. A few seconds later the faint but unmistakable
scent of hot metal mixed with oil comes through the ventilation system.
Taxi out, runup complete, temperatures up, checklist complete. I mash down
the PTT and say, "Cameron Park traffic, experimental seven eight zero golf
whiskey taking off runway 13, left downwind departure, Cameron Park."
Throttle full forward, tail up, lots of right rudder, and the rumble stops
at about 65 kts. I increase the foward pressure on the stick as the
airspeed builds to 130 kts at the end of the runway. I release the forward
pressure, the nose comes up, the VSI winds around to 4,000 fpm, and,
"COOOOOOL!" comes through the headphones. Or was it just inside my head?
Nose down, speed 120 kts, stick left, a little pull .. crosswind. Again
... downwind. I'm not flying; I'm just thinking and the outside world does
what I think.
Later, the headphones say, "do a roll!" I respond with, "like this?" The
stick comes back and then left simultaneously with the word "this." The
headphones laugh as the horizon spins. The headphones say, "do a couple
more!" The stick comes back and then right and stays there as the horizon
goes around twice. The headphones are laughing, "YEAAAAHHHHH!!!!"
A 172 passes going almost the opposite direction and about 500 feet below.
I say, "bandit at 10 o'clock low." Left stick and rudder. At about 130
degrees of roll I start the pull. The 'G' meter moves on up to 4. "Got
'im," say the headphones. Roll out, relax the back pressure and there is
the 172 ahead and above the nose. A little pull; the 172's belly and tail
get bigger, and the headphones say, "Ratatatatatatata!" and, "Got him!"
Stick back, 3 G's, and the airspeed winds down out of the yellow. The
headphones laugh some more.
Later we sit on the ramp, canopy up, listening to the tinkle and creak from
the cowl and smelling that new-engine-oil smell. Behind me the headphone
voice says, "Let's do it again!" It echos in my head, "... again ... again
... again ... again ..."
God, I love this.
P.S. Seth and the dog race to see who can get my
attention first as I walk through the door after work. Seth is showing me
his latest find from the school library, a biography of Amelia Earhart. He
regales me with the details of her first solo Atlantic crossing. Later he
continues talking about how Bob Hoover was wounded in WWII and how, if
things were a little different, it might have been Bob flying the X-1
instead of Chuck. And I am thinking that, just maybe, there is hope that
love of flying won't die for at least one more generation. Amelia, Bob,
Chuck, and a blue RV-4 are all part of that.
God Bless You Glen Whitely, wherever you are.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attack instruments- there is a difference |
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
> Wait a minute- are there THREE different lift instrument manufacturers? I re-
> read the email from Linda Frantz- she states their cost as $1450. Gary tells
> me the LRI runs about half that, so $710 is in line with that. Tell me more
> about this $474 job! Is it simply a stall indicator, vs a lift indicator? The
> LRI and the AOA tells you at which angle your wing is flying: how close you
> are to stall, or max L/D, etc.
And then you could probably easily make your own. I saw several at
Sun'n'Fun which looked like they were simply a potentiometer with it's
arm sticking out the side of the fuselage with a wedge-shaped weather
vane mounted on it (actually the wedge was aft of the pot arm, with a
counterweight in from of it).
I'm not sure how easily fuel sender pot's turn - but that may work.
You'd have to calibrate the gauge scale in degrees rather than
E-1/4-1/2-F, though.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit noise - was More on Cozy vs RV trades |
> Has anyone on this list installed an exhaust pipe / muffler system on
> their RV in an attempt to get cockpit noise levels down.
I'd sure hate to add the drag and weight, but I have to admit the set-up
that Tony B. describes in "Sportplane Builder", consisting of a long
muffler pipe faired in to the underside of the plane, is intriguing. As
I recall he said it was pioneered by European builders and greatly
reduces db output. Haven't seen any on RVs myself.
Mind you I like airplane noise as much as the next guy, but I know most
"ground-lubbers" don't, and it wouldn't hurt our image any if we started
taking measures to quiet our birds. I wonder if all aircraft were
muffled like cars, whether we would still be banned from the Grand
Canyon, fighting to keep suburban airports and backcountry strips from
closing, etc. etc.?
Just a thought. Not that I'm planning anything like that (not any time
soon anyway!) First priority is just to get the thing flying....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weeping rivets |
>
>Despite my efforts to seal all the rivets in my 6A tank, I have three that
>refuse to surrender. Has anyone come up with a good way to seal these after
>the tank is complete? My first thought is to slosh the tank (I have not done
>so yet).
Rick,
While I am not a builder (yet), I have often wondered if leaks such as
your's could not be sealed with the application of a low viscosity sealant
over the seams and rivets in the vicinity of the leak with the simultaneous
application of a mild vacuum to the tank. If nothing else worked, I would
try this myself. I would be very careful to, (1) keep the vacuum mild to
avoid collapsing the tank,(2) use an approved sealant, and (3) Consider
using some serious prayer :-) .
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
Avemco insures all our aircraft. I recently (last weekend) took the RV-4
off "ground risk only" and put it back on flying status.
Since I intend to fly it on business, my company insisted that I increase
the liability coverage to $2M and name them as an additional insured. At
first Avemco declined but later, after continued pressure, relented and
up'ed the coverage. I also asked about adding my 16-year-old student-pilot
son, Cameron, to the list of approved pilots of the RV-4. The first
response was, "we don't insure student pilots in homebuilts." I pointed
out that he had learned to fly in a Piper PA-16 "Clipper" and that was a
whole lot more difficult to handle on the ground than an RV-4. The agent,
a CFI and taildragger driver himself, agreed with me and then agreed to put
Cameron on the list of approved pilots for only
a-heart-stopping-sum-of-money more per year. Oh, prorated for the rest of
the year, of course. :^)
So, yes, some of the "big boys" do insure homebuilts.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Bracket (was Re. Throttle Brackett..) |
Randall, my info on the ACS cables is that they are now being custom made
for Van's to the correct mounting length (7 1/2") and effective travel, and
with the threaded sleeve to fit Van's bracket. I used Van's bracket and
the same custom mounting length and threaded sleeve for my prop cable except
that it is longer than the 45.5" that Van's stocks, and it works well. I
did move the governor control arm a little forward on the shaft to get full
movement although I've been told that it really isn't necessary to get full
course as you will not ever use it.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Those of you with O-360 and MA4-5 carb wondering about using Van's
>throttle bracket -- you might want to hold off getting a bracket for
>just a little bit.
>
>I have discussed this with several people at Vans, and the bottom line
>is that this bracket wasn't really designed for the O-360 and there are
>some issues with its use on that engine/carb.
>
>They now have my carbeurator and are using it to prototype a bracket
>for the O-360. It will be similar to the other one but will mount
>between the carb and the sump.
>
>This bracket will still have the relatively short distance between the
>mount point and the throttle/mixture arms, so if you are getting cables
>from ACS for example, you will still have to get them custom sized.
>I will post info on cable lengths when I get this all sorted out.
>
>Randall Henderson
>Engineering Design Team, Inc.
>randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Oversquare operation is an old wives tale. |
The following was taken from the Lycoming Flyer Key Reprints with
permission. (1996 edition page 65-66)
--------- Start quoted document ---------
A Review of Old Wives Tales
Tale Number One-- "The most likely time for an engine failure to
occur is at the first power reduction after takeoff."
---------- CUT ---------
For the sake of safety, lets stop repeating this false tale and start
promoting the idea that we should be ready to deal with power failure
at any time.
A second old wives tale is still being promoted by some individuals.
This tale involves the constant speed propeller and goes like this:
"The RPM in hundreds should not be exceeded by the manifold pressure
in inches of mercury." Referred to as a "squared power setting" (i.e.
2400 RPM X 24 inches of MP), it appears that this tale may be the
result of a carry-over from some models of the old radial engines
which were vulnerable to bearing wear at high power settings. Changes
in engine design along with improved metals and lubricants permit
changes in the operation of modern flat, opposed cylinder plants.
Any pilot who believes that squared power settings continue to be
necessary should be urged to read and understand the information in
the Pilot's Operating Handbook (POH). While there are limits to the
power which should be taken from most engines, particularly those
which are turbocharged, the combinations of RPM and MP listed in the
power charts of the POH have been flight tested and approved by the
airframe and powerplant engineers. For example, if the POH chart
lists 2200 RPM and 26 inches of MP as an approved power setting,
pilots should not be apprehensive about using that setting if it meets
their needs.
Isn't it strange that some bits of information come to be believed by
large segments of a population even when they are untrue? The two
issues discussed above are good examples. Will it ever be possible to
get all of our fellow pilots to reject the two false ideas outline
here? Lets keep trying.
--------- End quoted document ---------
I have scanned several pages from the Lycoming Flyer Key Reprints on
engine power sequence and old wives tales regarding Over Square
operation. I can forward the scanned files to anyone that would like
a copy. There are 8 files totaling 1.17 Meg are all in JPG format. It
most likely will take several e-mail messages to send all the files.
Many mail servers will not allow attachments over 500K.
File name Size
Lycoming Flyer page 3 107K
Lycoming Flyer page 42 180K
Lycoming Flyer page 43 175K
Lycoming Flyer page 44 196K
Lycoming Flyer page 45 181K
Lycoming Flyer page 65 192K
Lycoming Flyer page 66 182K
If you would like a copy, please
E-MAIL ME OFF LIST
And I will try to send them out Monday night.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | See you at OSWEGO NY FORUM SEPT 12 |
________________________________________________________________________________
Dave;
Thanks for the print-out. I've taken it to work and made a bunch of copies
already.
Could you please post the following on the RV List?
1. Canadian RV builders are invited to the RV Forum Sept. 12, 13.
2.Customs will be on the field.
3. Discussion on engine choice. Would anyone be interested in
participating?
4. Welcome cook-out on Friday night. Forums on Sat. Pancake breakfast on
Sunday, featuring RV's.
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Carroll <carroll(at)geology.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | skysports fuel senders |
I am contemplating using the Skysports capacitance fuel senders in my
tanks, and would like to know 1) if you are using them and are satisfied,
and 2) how you installed them?
I've found a previous post on installing them on the back baffle; I'm
wondering if its possible to put them on the tank cover plate (like the
float senders)? I'm not planning to gauge the whole whole tank, just the
area near the root end.
Alan Carroll
Madison, Wisconsin
RV-8 #80177 (Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
Check the archives. There was a thread on this about 6 months ago. I
think the conclusion was that this stuff also interferes with the radios
or GPS or something.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Brian: You should call Aero Sound Shield...they have a gold film that
> blocks out 99% UV, but very minimal light...it is not cheap, but if that is
> what you are into, then it is the only way to go...
>
> Their number is 818-374-5355
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> Waiting on finish kit
> http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit noise - was More on Cozy vs RV trades |
Randall wrote about that long tailpipe:
> I recall he said it was pioneered by European builders and greatly
> reduces db output.
I suppose it reduces hp output too?
hal
fficult. Though my ribs
>were as straight as I could make them, the flanges were not centered on the
>holes when the skin was tight. After many frustrating attempts, I finally
>opened the bottom skin enought to see inside. I reached in and lined the
>rib centerlines up with the holes and after several attemptsand a llittle
>blood I got all the ribs lined up. The skin is now strapped down tight
>with a nice tight fit all around, the leading edge even matches nicely at
>the joint. I will drill the bottom this morning.
>
I found that a pick through the holes in the skin could be used to move
the ribs into position, but this is not a fun part of the building
experience.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington, Colorado Fly-In |
The third annual Burlington Rv fly in will be on 19 and 20 Sep, which is
Sat and Sun. Early arivals on Fri, 18th are encouraged. There is a $15
registration fee this year which includes lunch. Tickets will be on
sale for the Sat nite dinner. Departures will be on Sunday. Van's
will be represented. One really good motel with special rates is :
Comfort INN (719) 346-7676.
Camping is allowed. Free booth space for vendors. Must be RV
related. Bring Tie downs as you may have to park on the grass.
Attendance is growing each year.
John Sterwart at Burlington (719) 346-8741.
See you there
D Walsh RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | gone to homecoming |
I have gone to Van's homecoming to get an RV fix that I need since my RV was
totaled by a severe storm. If you need to contact me, do so directly. I will
re-subscribe when I get back.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
Repeat Offender RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
My two cents . . . regardless of the canopy, always use a sunscreen and lip
protector--even when you're not airborne. THe other concern is the
intensity of the UV at altitude. I forget the exact statistics, but here in
Denver we're told 15 minutes at a ski slope is equivalent to an hour on the
beach in Miami (thinner air, less protection). I may have the numbers wrong
on this, but you get the idea.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IS IT LEGAL?
>
>
>
>
>
>>Brian, I believe the RV canopies all come tinted as standard. You have
>to
>>request clear. At least that is the way it was the last I heard/read.
>I
>>think there was an article in the RVator or here on the list concerning
>>ultraviolet ray exposure that explained about this.
>>
>>Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>>
>>
>>
>
>Les,
>
>Speaking of UV exposure, will the tint filter out enough to avoid
>sunburning the occupants? Being a fair skinned person, this is a
>concern. Arriving "poached and blistered" doesn't sound like fun.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | Wing leading edges |
I am in one crabby mood. I just took my first tank off the wing spar
for the first time after drilling the ribs to the skins.
Tomorrow I'll be re-ordering two or three of the ribs.
People who have been having success drilling their prepunched leading
edges -- what are you doing to get everything lined up? I've had no
end of trouble. I spent *days* trying to get everything lined up before
drilling, and I still screwed up several ribs. Things look pretty good
at the base of the ribs, and I'm okay on bottoms where I started drilling,
but twist in the ribs or something is causing all sorts of weird problems
for the frontmost 6 to 10 holes on the top side. The holes creep to the
edges of the flange. I *thought* I could see my centerline holes in
the holes I was drilling, but obviously not.
Grumble.
-J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | RV's with Mufflers |
You asked......
>Has anyone on this list installed an exhaust pipe / muffler system on their
RV
>in an attempt to get cockpit noise levels down. Is it even feasible and
would
>it provide a measurable noise reduction if a builder had low noise as a
design
>goal?
I helped a local 6 builder with the first engine start up on his airplane
the other day, and the builder has a self built exhaust system that he
copied from the ones that another local builder, Gerry Wilcox, has build
for I think four RV's now. (Gerry posted a message asking for interest if
he decided to build them for sale.) The system is a crossover with a
muffler on the right side and one large exhaust pipe that exits the bottom
of the cowl. This is on sixes, I don't think it would fit under a four
cowl.
Anyway, I was very surprised at how much quieter this airplane is than mine
with a vetterman four pipe. I like the noise that mine makes, but this
six was much quieter. I think it is quiter even than Gerry's six (muffler
is larger maybe???)
If you are interested, get hold of Gerry (have to check the archives for his
email address, I don't have it) I promiced him I would take some photo's
that he could email to people, but I have to borrow the digital camera from
work, should have that done early next week. (I haven't forgot Gerry)
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relay question |
<3.0.5.32.19980902105832.00999100(at)158.222.8.12>
<41116842.35ed5cc4(at)aol.com>
>But clamping the reverse spike at zero tends to keep that reverse voltage
>spike completely out of your electronics. Sure, properly designed
>electronics will dissipate a reverse spike on the order of 20V and of
>relatively short duration (low energy) but not all electronics are well
>designed.
I keep hearing this . . . one guy wrote me a long letter about
how he NEEDED all the pullable breakers in his C-421 because
of the processors that would lock up and he had to interupt
the power to get them back on line. I can only wonder why
anyone pays aircraft prices for pieces of equipment that operates
that way and tollerates it!
> . . . I like the warm feeling I get knowing that, short of the diode
>dying open, that reverse spike never goes more than about 1V in the wrong
>direction thus keeping its energy really low.
Contrary to popular belief, diodes and/or MOVs across contactor
coils is not for the benefit of avionics . . . it's for the switch
that controls the contactor (remember the AD a few years back that
ACS put out a kit for adding a diode across the starter switch of
their key-lock switch? The starter contactor was eating the critter alive).
I quite doing the DO-160 300 volt spike test on certified avionics
when I discovered that a 10uF cap on the input totally wiped out
the spike. Contactor spikes are even more benign . . . lots of
gizmos coming onto the market are getting protection from the
indirect effects of lighting . . . a few resistors and transorbs.
>Sure, MOVs are great when you are trying to clamp spikes on an AC circuit
>where you might not know ahead of time which direction the spike is going
>to go and you still have to accommodate normal voltage going in both
>directions (polarity) but we have the good fortune in our airplanes of
>being able to say, "any DC power more negative than ground is bad." Plain
>ol' silicon power diodes work great, are cheap, and are readily available.
True . . and in fact, Revision 8 to our power distribution diagrams
is replacing the MOVs with diodes. One of the things that prompted
this was the fact that our current offering of starter contactors
now comes with the diode built into the contactor. The other
factor was the relative difficuties of finding low voltage MOVs.
Soooooo . . . we're going to be sending off an article to Sport
Aviation in a few days on how to deal with those little pieces of
glass with solid wire leads. The article will appear on our website
too . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
<< Speaking of UV exposure, will the tint filter out enough to avoid
sunburning the occupants? Being a fair skinned person, this is a
concern. Arriving "poached and blistered" doesn't sound like fun. >>
Actually, very little short wave UV gets thru Plexiglas (acrylic) or Lexan
(polycarbonate) to burn you anyway. IMO, comfort is more an issue of reducing
the heat of the sun impinging on the occupants, not really reducing the UV.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <huffaker(at)utw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle-of-Attack instruments- there is a difference |
On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> And then you could probably easily make your own. I saw several at
> Sun'n'Fun which looked like they were simply a potentiometer with it's
> arm sticking out the side of the fuselage with a wedge-shaped weather
> vane mounted on it (actually the wedge was aft of the pot arm, with a
> counterweight in from of it).
Am in the design phase of something like this. In an RV, you can't put
it on the fuse because of the tractor prop. Have to put it out on the
wing somewhere. Currently planning on a tube attached to the outboard
most ribs, sticking out 1-2ft in front of the leading edge. Rather
exposed to hanger/fly-in rash, will hang a big red remove before flight
flag on it.
>
> I'm not sure how easily fuel sender pot's turn - but that may work.
> You'd have to calibrate the gauge scale in degrees rather than
> E-1/4-1/2-F, though.
>
I'm just picking up parts at a local electronic supply store, much
cheaper than an aircraft fuel sender. Not going to calibrate in deg. just
mark red line for flaps down stall, yellow zone for flaps only operation,
lines for best glide, aproach speed, etc. (haven't totally made up my
mind on this) Planning on putting a buzzer in for a stall warning, but
don't want to complicate things too much by using a flap position sensor.
Anybody know the difference in stall aoa for flaps down and up?
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (huffaker(at)utw.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Preparing 2nd wing spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More on Cozy vs RV trades |
<< Has anyone measured the typical sound levels in RVs? >>
My 6A with O-360 c/s measured 104dBA on my sound meter at full tilt boogie.
And I have good sound deadening installed in the tail, on the firewall, on the
cabin sides and on the floor. The straight unmuffled pipes really do a number
on us.
Putting a muffler on would help reduce the noise somewhat but not to the point
that you could go sans headsets and suffer a cumulative hearing loss over
time. Our Lightspeed 20K ANR headsets reduce this level by 44dBA, so that
puts us right at 60dBA, and is quite comfortable all day.
-GV
emco declined but later, after continued pressure, relented and
>up'ed the coverage. I also asked about adding my 16-year-old student-pilot
>son, Cameron, to the list of approved pilots of the RV-4. The first
>response was, "we don't insure student pilots in homebuilts." I pointed
>out that he had learned to fly in a Piper PA-16 "Clipper" and that was a
>whole lot more difficult to handle on the ground than an RV-4. The agent,
>a CFI and taildragger driver himself, agreed with me and then agreed to put
>Cameron on the list of approved pilots for only
>a-heart-stopping-sum-of-money more per year. Oh, prorated for the rest of
>the year, of course. :^)
>
>So, yes, some of the "big boys" do insure homebuilts.
>
>
>Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
>brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
>http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Bracket (was Re. Throttle Brackett..) |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Those of you with O-360 and MA4-5 carb wondering about using Van's
>throttle bracket -- you might want to hold off getting a bracket for
>just a little bit.
>
>I have discussed this with several people at Vans, and the bottom line
>is that this bracket wasn't really designed for the O-360 and there
>are
>some issues with its use on that engine/carb.
>
>They now have my carbeurator and are using it to prototype a bracket
>for the O-360. It will be similar to the other one but will mount
>between the carb and the sump.
>
>This bracket will still have the relatively short distance between the
>mount point and the throttle/mixture arms, so if you are getting
>cables
>from ACS for example, you will still have to get them custom sized.
>I will post info on cable lengths when I get this all sorted out.
>
>Randall Henderson
>Engineering Design Team, Inc.
>randall(at)edt.com
>
>
Actually what appears to have happened some time in the last few years is
that precision made some slight changes in how they make the MA4-5 carb.
I have personally installed said bracket on said carbs in the past with
no problem.
As Randall mentioned, Andy is working on a new bracket right now, but
builders who want to use the color and shape coded controls can buy them
from Van's now, specially sized to us with the brackets.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
in a localized area which
wont effect the strength of the tank at all.
BTW since the tank is now closed up you need to be careful of leaving
metal drillings in the tank. You should try to flush out the tank well
after doing this kind of repair.
One trick you can use is to put some mixed tank sealant on any drill bits
or countersink cutters that you use and all the drillings/cuttings will
tend to stick to the sticky stuff. Then clean off everything after you
are done. heavy grease could be used also but may contaminate the hole.
It is not likely that you will contaminate the hole if you use something
that you are going to put there anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: RV-8 tank Skins |
>I found fitting the skin to be very difficult. I kept the straps loose
>while I drilled the top of the skin, reaching in to move the ribs as
>needed. Strapping the skin tight prooved very difficult. Though my ribs
>were as straight as I could make them, the flanges were not centered on the
>holes when the skin was tight. After many frustrating attempts, I finally
>opened the bottom skin enought to see inside. I reached in and lined the
>rib centerlines up with the holes and after several attemptsand a llittle
>blood I got all the ribs lined up. The skin is now strapped down tight
>with a nice tight fit all around, the leading edge even matches nicely at
>the joint. I will drill the bottom this morning.
Use threaded rod through the tooling holes (the -8 does have tooling holes,
doesn't it... the -6 did) in the leading edge and tank ribs. Secure the ribs
with stop nuts run up on the threaded rod. This way, you can adjust the ribs
until they are "just right", and hold them in place while you drill them to
match the skin. I think this was mentioned in the -6 manual.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing leading edges |
>
>I am in one crabby mood. I just took my first tank off the wing spar
>for the first time after drilling the ribs to the skins.
>
>Tomorrow I'll be re-ordering two or three of the ribs.
>
>People who have been having success drilling their prepunched leading
>edges -- what are you doing to get everything lined up? I've had no
>end of trouble. I spent *days* trying to get everything lined up before
>drilling, and I still screwed up several ribs. Things look pretty good
>at the base of the ribs, and I'm okay on bottoms where I started drilling,
>but twist in the ribs or something is causing all sorts of weird problems
>for the frontmost 6 to 10 holes on the top side. The holes creep to the
>edges of the flange. I *thought* I could see my centerline holes in
>the holes I was drilling, but obviously not.
>
>Grumble.
>
Maybe you did this but in the event you didn't let's discuss how to
drill the holes so they will line up on the ribs.
Use a wide felt tip marker (one that will make a mark about 1/16"
wide) to mark a line down the middle of the rib flange. As you drill
thru the skin stop and see if the line is centered, left of center or
right of center. You can't move that hole but you CAN move the next
hole. Keep 'moving' the holes as you drill and you'll be within 1/16"
of the centerline all the way down the rib.
Another method that works is to hold a steel nail in the middle of the
flange and, using a stud finder, locate the place to drill the hole.
You'll only have to do this for the first hole since the line on the
rib will work for the rest of the holes.
BTW, I didn't have prepunched holes in my kit so I have to guess that
the prepunched holes you're referring to are in the skin. If they're
in the ribs my above advice isn't worth anything.
John Ammeter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IS IT LEGAL? |
Brian, since several others have already replied to this, I will only add
that I have used the cling type shades with success (although if not kept
perfectly clean they will scratch the canopy badly) and I will be putting a
Koger shade in my new -6A. Those things, along with the usual cap or hat,
with neck scarf on the back, long sleeves and a good sunscreen coating is
all that I know of that will help. Fortunately (I guess), I take a good
tan, even on my balding head.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>Les,
>
>Speaking of UV exposure, will the tint filter out enough to avoid
>sunburning the occupants? Being a fair skinned person, this is a
>concern. Arriving "poached and blistered" doesn't sound like fun.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Screws or Rivets |
I am at that stage where it is time to attached the canopy to the frame or
rollover bar on the slider RV-6.
Does anyone know why in some places the plans indicated attaching with screws
and in other places with rivets. Does it matter?
FYI, I had to shim the front part of the slider portion of the canopy about
3/8" in places. This seems excessive, but it will work. Also at least 1/2"
spacers are needed on the center canopy frame attachement.
I plan on using the Jim Cone solution and use Marine Tex to fill the gaps.
Tests on canopy indicated no harmfull effects on the canopy. As I understand
Jim's instructions he bonds the Marine Tex to the canopy frame only and not to
the plexiglass, he uses screws or rivets to attached plexiglass to Marine Tex.
Any comments, suggestions or warnings?
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oversquare operation is an old wives tale. |
<< A second old wives tale is still being promoted by some individuals.
This tale involves the constant speed propeller and goes like this:
"The RPM in hundreds should not be exceeded by the manifold pressure
in inches of mercury." Referred to as a "squared power setting" (i.e.
2400 RPM X 24 inches of MP), it appears that this tale may be the
result of a carry-over from some models of the old radial engines
which were vulnerable to bearing wear at high power settings. Changes
in engine design along with improved metals and lubricants permit
changes in the operation of modern flat, opposed cylinder plants. >>
I'm aware of this info. But elsewhere in the Key Reprints book (pg 42) they
mention the procedure to decrease power and they state to reduce throttle
first. I disagree with this in the case I mentioned, as it seems that they
themselves are perpetuating the myth of oversquare.
Most people who have contacted me agree that after rotation and setting up
cruise-climb, reducing the prop rpm first to 2500 rpm and then reducing
throttle (or not) is quite acceptable and maybe preferred. In this case it is
desirable to get a bigger bite of the air with a light plane and all that
power up there. Other routine power reductions should probably be handled per
Lycoming's recommendations for best longevity.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing leading edges |
<>
I solved this problem by having a helper with a long stick push or pull on the
ribs to keep them aligned while I did the drilling. I think I also started
drilling in the rib midspan rather than on the front or rear.
Hope this helps, I can understand the frustration, best thing to do right now
is take a few days off before you make a real mistake.
I would consider this a minor mistake based upon the ones that I have made,
you might not think so, but at least you are not rebuilding the spar!.
I must confess, I do have a lot of extra parts and skins that did not fit
right or something went wrong along the way. My top rear fuselage skin was
beaten into submission by my 150 pound Great Pyreenes Dog. On the second skin
I did not have the bulkhead straight when I drilled, it looked like a salomn
course of rivets. Third skin was bent in shipping and finally I got the
fourth one to look good, but any of the four would have worked.
Trust me you are not the only one to have these problems. Most problems can
be fixed or rebuilt, but just keep this all in perspective, we are suppose to
be having fun!
This note is posted for all of you out there thinking that everything has to
be perfect and you are probably wondering why you are the only person in the
RV Universe that is making these mistakes. Trust me, I don't think there are
any mistakes you can make that have not already been made. The more
experienced builders just know how to fix them, or hide them, or paint over
them!
Good luck and keep at it.
Bob "I promise no more mistakes" Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Where do you people go to sell and buy rv's that are unwanted...Ie
already started?completed. I have been told this is not the
place...thank you...jolly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
How have you and yours been? I havn't heard from you for a while...we
have been having a heat wave here all in the high 80's but no rain is
nice for a change....I havn't done much with the music lately, and have
been thinking of selling one of the Korg I-3"s, but somehow I hope
somewhere in oregon they still like my type of music, instead of
twanging guitars and people in big hats and smelly boots....I guess i'm
getting old, and grumpy....Ha, I've always been that way!.....I guess
I've let this foot problem get me down, but I've been talking to the guy
upstairs, but no answer yet.(I think he's busy with a whole lot more
important things)....Did they finall let you keep a dog? The other
morning I looked out the window, and someone had dumped a little kitten
out of a car onto the grass in frount of the house, the poor thing was
on his last legs...There MUST be some good in people who do that kind of
thing, but I sure can't find any.....If I catch one, however it would
sure be tempting to open one up and look....anyway, we now have a free
$125.00 kitten....but he is still with us, minus a few of the nine
lives, but now he has a fighting chance....Dis you get another keyboard?
and how are "things" over there? any Real radical changes? Or is that a
forbidden subject? go to go, and clean up the shop from
unlitterbox-trained kitten........jolly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing leading edges |
One technique I have used is to use a fine point black Sharpie to mark the
centerline on the ribs, and then go over that with the regular Sharpie in red,
which makes a line about 1/8" wide. It is sometimes very difficult if not
impossible to keep the fine line right under the holes, but by having the red
under the hole, you will know that you are within tolerance. Otherwise, if you
use only the fine line, if you don't see it, you have no idea where you are.
Hope you can follow this, it worked great for me, in fact I did this on the
whole project.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit noise - was More on Cozy vs RV |
trades
| From: | rv-list(at)pteron.demon.co.uk |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>Randall wrote about that long tailpipe:
>
>> I recall he said it was pioneered by European builders and
greatly
>> reduces db output.
>
>I suppose it reduces hp output too?
>
Not necessarily. Recently in Britain, a Jodel was modified with
a tuned exhaust, which both reduced the noise significantly (so
much that the aircraft now carries a horn to scare sheep off the
owners' strip) and increased power by a few hp. I believe the
numbers were 4 or 5 hp improvement on a 100ish horse engine. I'd
have to look it up again to get the exact figures but you get
the gist ;)
--
Andy
A blizzard is when it snows sideways.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing leading edges |
>
>People who have been having success drilling their prepunched leading
>edges -- what are you doing to get everything lined up? I've had no
>end of trouble. I spent *days* trying to get everything lined up before
>drilling, and I still screwed up several ribs. Things look pretty good
>at the base of the ribs, and I'm okay on bottoms where I started drilling,
>but twist in the ribs or something is causing all sorts of weird problems
>for the frontmost 6 to 10 holes on the top side. The holes creep to the
>edges of the flange. I *thought* I could see my centerline holes in
>the holes I was drilling, but obviously not.
Had the same problem. - As the rib centerline markings slowly started to
creep away from their pre-punched holes in the skin I used a smaller drill
bit (1/16") to drill an off center hole inside the larger 3/32 skin hole.
Then I used a small pick (ice pick) to maneuver the rib flange back towards
center. Not perfect as you have limited room to move the rib but it did the
trick for me.
George McNutt, Langley B.C
Picking up Fusalage kit at homecoming!
The rib can be dead on at bottom and top and twisted towards center of
skin.
August 29, 1998 - September 04, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fi