RV-Archive.digest.vol-fk
September 10, 1998 - September 18, 1998
Engine guru Everett Hatch also preferred Lycoming jugs because they have
more material to play with in the areas where he works his flow magic.
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 f*berglassing custom induction scoop
>Lycon. They said that they prefer the Lycoming jugs over the Superior
>jugs. Seems that the port shapes in the Superior jugs are especially nasty
>to the flow and that stock Lycoming cylinders flow better than Superior
>jugs even after the Superior jugs have been "ported and polished." They
>also said that they didn't seen any significant reliability differences
>between the two cylinder designs in actual use.
>
>Disclaimer: this is second-hand information. Your milage may vary.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Spokane area RVers? |
Any Spokane-area RVers out there? I will be at Fairchild AFB 14 - 18 Sep 98
on business and would love to visit any RV projects or flying aircraft.
Please respond off-list if you are interested.
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST f*berglassing custom induction scoop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Under Wing Air Inlet |
Moe;
Yes, the adjustable rudder pedals are more expensive, and yes you should get
back a credit of around $100.00, as I recall. You will like the non-
adjustables much better, as well as being one-half the weight.
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. King" <skywalk(at)earthlink.net> |
please remove me from mail list
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spokane area RVers? |
i am interrested.any in ca?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David S. Hamilton" <hamlton(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Suits Ltd |
For anyone interested in Flight Suits LTD.
I have been a customer of theirs since 1984 when I bought an hgu helmet for
use as an Air Force pilot . The Air Force issue helmet just didn't work
well for me due to a hearing loss in one ear and the noise level in the
F-4. The flight Suits helmet was and still is remarkable in quality, noise
supression and comfort. As I get closer to flying my RV it's going to be a
tough call whether to buy a pair of Bose headsets or have Flight Suits
convert this old helmet that has served me so well.
Call them at (800) 748-6693 and ask for Debbie Jo Parker. She is a fine
person who has always treated me well. Great folks, great quality. A
little pricey for sure but also a great value.
Dave Hamilton
RV-8 (80001)
N880RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Suits Ltd |
John, Their internet address is<< http://www.flightsuits.com/ >> Jeff
Farrar, RV8A, Empennage complete, QB due in Nov., Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: schulz(at)albanyis.com.au <schulz(at)albanyis.com.au>
Date: Thursday, September 10, 1998 5:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flight Suits Ltd
>
>For us "outlanders" you didn't give the address of Flight Suits Ltd.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | XP-360 Warrantee |
Fellow Builders
Regarding a "warrantee" on the XP-360. It will be interesting how this will
wash out for all involved. Does the price they "think" they are selling the
engine for include a warrantee of any kind? Would engines bought as a kit be
less the warrantee? I can only assume that a warrantee is "paid for"
indirectly by the consumer. Such being the case, I would certainly expect the
cost difference for an engine "kit" to be "quite a bit" less. After all, who
wants to pay for everyone elses warrantee? And, let's face it, an engine with
no warrantee, no matter how well it holds up, is not nearly as valuable as one
with a good warrantee. I mean, when you buy a water heater, different
models(but built the same) come with different warrantees. Neither of them
will outlast the other under the same operating conditions. If anything, a
warrantee is a guarantee that you will again buy a water heater that is sold
by the same company. It should all be very interesting.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Suits Ltd |
>
>For us "outlanders" you didn't give the address of Flight Suits Ltd.
>Being in need of a helmut for safety reasons - my previous has all
>the padding worn away and the springs on the headphones have died an
>honourable - I 'obtained' it during my Viet Nam reincarnation and a
>new flight suit - where did that skinny underweight kid go to
>anyway?- I'd like to contact Flight Suits.
They are in El Cajon, CA, not too far from the El Cajon airport (near San
Diego). I dealt with them at Oshkosh and I don't have their address or
phone number at my fingertips but calling 619-555-1212 should net you their
phone number.
Funny thing; I now wear a different size flight suit too. I can't believe
how that nomex shrinks with time. :^)
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
they will fit like a glove and they are the most
comfortable garments I own.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Suits Ltd |
>
>For anyone interested in Flight Suits LTD.
>
>I have been a customer of theirs since 1984 when I bought an hgu helmet for
>use as an Air Force pilot . The Air Force issue helmet just didn't work
>well for me due to a hearing loss in one ear and the noise level in the
>F-4. The flight Suits helmet was and still is remarkable in quality, noise
>supression and comfort. As I get closer to flying my RV it's going to be a
>tough call whether to buy a pair of Bose headsets or have Flight Suits
>convert this old helmet that has served me so well.
Don't forget Oregon Aero. Their mods to the HGU helmet make it *very*
comfortable and the noise reduction something truely amazing. The
combination is, as you say, pricey but the result is well worth it in my book.
>Call them at (800) 748-6693 and ask for Debbie Jo Parker. She is a fine
>person who has always treated me well. Great folks, great quality. A
>little pricey for sure but also a great value.
I have a leather jacket I got from them 15 years ago. Every 5 years to so
I send it back and they put new cuffs on. It comes back looking like new.
I agree that FSL is a first-class outfit.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360/CS Prop RPM Restriction |
My poh gives me a chart of rpm and mp settings.
It starts at 2300 rpm!
Hope you get it.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Longeron Shipping |
I have a friend that is starting his RV6 fuselage. He has just discovered
the two aluminum angles he has been saving from his wing kit are not the
fourteen foot length he needs. Van is telling him shipping will be over
$100.00 for these two items. He is looking for someone that is ordering a wing
kit within 150 miles of Bowling Green, KY that would be willing to include
these in their shipment. He is not in a big hurry for these items as he can
use mine since I'm several months away from needing them. Any help on shipping
or a closer source would be much appreciated.
RV6 spar in the jig, wife says bath remodeling comes first.
Bentley Floyd
Bowling Green KY
AA5A N9985U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rigging? |
<< I am rigging the ailerons on my -6. On drawing 19a on the left side is the
top view of the bellcrank. A dimension 1 3/16" (when neutral) is shown from
the face of the 1/8" angle to the center of the control tube connection hole.
For those of you who gone through this, is this an exact measurement? >>
Mine worked out to be 1.25" to keep the other end from going too nearly over
center.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Get a Clue about Certification |
First, pickup a copy of the CFRs (Code of Federal Regulations) and read
paragraph 23 (known to most as FAR 23). This is the BEGINNING of what a
certified aircraft has to go through, and it will lead you to other ACs and
regulations that are also required.
+AD4-It's my impression that the only reason the RV's are not certified is
+AD4-because they have not been tested for certification to be sure they are in
+AD4-compliance+ACE-
Although I feel the RVs are great airplanes (lest why would I build one?),
the RV series of aircraft does not meet FAR 23 in many areas: stick force
per G, crashworthy seats, stall warning, and many, many more.
+AD4- I'm sure that they would be more qualified than most spam cans+ACE-
Think about it. Spam cans by definition ARE certified+ADs- homebuilts are NOT.
+AD4-Another point is that, someone correct me if I'm wrong, please, no
+AD4-homebuilt can be certified even though the design may be certified.
NOT TRUE. Many sailplanes were homebuilt using certified designs and are
now certified. Also someone else correctly mentioned the Piper Cub kits.
+AD4-The reason is that no two homebuilt aircraft of the same design are
+AD4-necessarily manufactured to the same standards.
This is actually a rule for a Production Certificate (not a Type
Certificate). But, along those lines, if you modify any certified aircraft,
you must certify that modification either through an STC or change the TC.
+AD4-I believe that certification testing involves testing to destruction at
least one,
+AD4-possibly two aircraft. This understandably makes the cost rather steep -
+AD4-unacceptable for a one-time builder+ADs- prohibitive for a designer, in my
+AD4-opinion+ACE-
Any kit manufacturer that does not break at least one aircraft is negligent+ACE-
+AD4-Hope this helps,
Bad information only hurts everyone involved.
+AD4- HOWEVER if you have the data plate and the papers, one can build most
+AD4-certified airplane using a few of the factory parts where necessary. You
of
+AD4-course have to build in all the errors of the approved original factory
+AD4-parts +ADw-GRIN
This is true, but all the parts must be per factory (or other approved)
specs.
+AD4-It IS possible to +ACI-homebuild+ACI- a certified design and get it certified
just
+AD4-like a factory built one. The trick is it has to pass a conformity
+AD4-inspection, which could be pretty intense for a plane built from scratch.
+AD4-You might also have legal issues with the certificate holder. Piper at
+AD4-one time (70's?) produced a kit for the Cub that included arrangements to
+AD4-get it certified. Antiquers that rebuild a plane from a data plate are
+AD4-doing essentially the same thing.
Amen
+AD4-A certificated aircraft has much more procedures that it has to go through,
+AD4-not that the design is not worthy. It costs mucho dinero+ACQAJAAkACQ- for
the
+AD4-manufacturer, years of testing, REDESIGN, etc....Van did not intend for
+AD4-this aircraft to be certified, so it is not. Not to mention, most of us
+AD4-could not afford it and the TSO'd products that go into them+ACE-
Amen, again
+AD4-The very thing we enjoy about or RV's, the light control forces and
+AD4-instantaneous response, would be a problem with the FAA. This control feel
+AD4-would have to be +ACI-engineered out+ACI- so the 90+ACU- percentile pilot
could fly the
+AD4-plane without killing himself. Tell me, if your RV handled like a Cessna
152
+AD4-would you still build one? Joe Average pilot does not want a sporty
handling aircraft.
Amen, except Joe Pilot DOES want a sporty aircraft, which is why Oshkosh is
still growing. But, Joe's widow and her lawyer wants Spam money in her
pockets (not being gender specific here). The Cessna 210 and Beech Bonanza
are great examples.
If you have gotten this far, I will admit you are at least trying to see the
other side of general aviation. The two types of aircraft play by different
rules and normally have a different end users. Both industries compliment
each other in the long run - where would you get an engine if spam had not
purchased thousands of them before you?
Off the soapbox, e-mail/flame off list
Ron
FLY-IN-HOME+AEA-worldnet.att.net
ps. I have (and am) worked for a homebuilt manufacturer, EAA, Spam and Big
Spam in the flight test and certification disciplines.
ps +ACM-2 as Scott says, +ACI-My opinions are not necessarily those of my employer+ACI-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Under Wing Air Inlet |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
d
>Yes, the adjustable rudder pedals are more expensive, and yes you
>should get
>back a credit of around $100.00, as I recall. You will like the non-
>adjustables much better, as well as being one-half the weight.
>
They are not "non" adjustables, they are ground adjustable (versus
inflight adjustable) which just means that you have to remove a few bolts
to change the possition.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nick Nafsinger <n.nafsinger(at)mci2000.com> |
Ya got me.. I didn't even think about the pressurization..... Thanks
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Lloyd
Sent: September 10, 1998 9:44 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Avionics Fans
>
>I can't speak for all military aircraft, but I can for several
I bet it is equipment that is in the pressurized cabin. That way they know
that the air density will be sufficient to carry away the heat. Stuff
outside the pressure vessel that has to still cool when the ambient
pressure is that of 45,000' usually uses conduction cooling.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rigging? |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
> Mine measure neutral at 1", which means I will have to shorten the tube a
> bit. In turn means the wings will have to be removed to get the tube out!
Denny - The tube will come out the outboard end of the wing. I hope that you
haven't
installed the wing tips permanently cause this is definitely faster than pulling
the wings :-)
DGM RV-6 Working on wing to fuselage fairing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rigging? |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I am rigging the ailerons on my -6. On drawing 19a on the left side
>is the
>top veiw of the bellcrank. A dimension 1 3/16" (when neutral) is shown
>from
>the face of the 1/8" angle to the center of the control tube
>connection hole.
>
>For those of you who gone through this, is this an exact measurement?
>
No, it just gets you real close.
The main thing you are looking for is that when one aileron is full up
against the stop (I think between 30 and 32 Deg. travel), the other
aileron is at the proper amount of down travel (I think 17 deg).
Adjusting the neutral position of the bellcrank will adjust the aileron
differential relationship.
If I remember correctly, making the long pushrod that comes from the
stick shorter, and the one that connects bellcrank to aileron longer,
gives you more down aileron travel when the other aileron
(up side) is against the stop. If anyone else has done this recently and
knows different, please correct me.
So if you have you aileron control stops set up correctly so that you
have the correct up travel on both ailerons, all you need to do is adjust
equal amounts on the rods for both bellcranks until you have the correct
down travel on the opposite ailerons.
Another thing that all RV-6(A) builders should carefully check is that
the clocking of the rod ends on the main tubes from the control column
out to the bell cranks is correct. This is not an issue on RV-4's or
8's.
On an RV-6 the aileron pushrods swing for and aft when the stick is moved
for elevator control which changes the angle of the pushrods at each end.
If they are not adjusted correctly it is possible to bind the rod ends
at the extreme fwd and aft corners of control stick movement. This is
much harder to describe than it is to see if you move the stick to the
for corners with all the controls hooked up. If it's set up correctly
you should still have a slight amount of rotation left on the rod end
(check by trying to rotate the tube slightly) when the stick is in the 4
extreme corners.
>
>Mine measure neutral at 1", which means I will have to shorten the
>tube a
>bit. In turn means the wings will have to be removed to get the tube
>out!
>
Do you have removable wing tips? If you need to remove the tube it will
come out the tip end also.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Flop Tube O-Ring |
I have read that the Flop Tube O-Ring will eventually deteriorate and fall
off in my fuel tank. Some have taken it off and put Pro Seal in its place.
Do any of you know of a better option, maybe an O-Ring of a more suitable
material ?
Mark McGee
closing left fuel tank (thankful that RVs only have two tanks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
I sandwiched together a piece of 1/2 in fine particle board and 3/4 in.
fine particle board for my false spar. The 1/2 in. and 3/4 in. are
really 1/2 in. and 3/4 in. No planing required.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (Fuse)
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | F605 Bulkhead Query |
I use the Frank Justice notes and fabricated a splice plate from .032
scrap. The dimensions were 3 3/8 X 2 3/4. He also had you position the
splice plate up against the bend in the top flange of F605A. The
elevator pushrod cutout was made in the splice plate and 605A with the
dimensions shown (1 5/8 X 1 1/4) but was made 3/8 in. above the bar
rather then right next to it.
Hope this helps.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (Fuse)
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rudder Pedals |
If I get a credit back of $100 for the adjustable set, and they already charged
me
$192 for the non-adjustable set, doesn't that mean that the non-adjustable pedals
are more expensive? This is what Cynthia told me, and I was wondering if I had
misunderstood her.Moe Colontonio
http://members.bellatlantic.net
> >Yes, the adjustable rudder pedals are more expensive, and yes you
> >should get
> >back a credit of around $100.00, as I recall. You will like the non-
> >adjustables much better, as well as being one-half the weight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Flight Suits Ltd |
As I recall from previous thread(s) on the subject of wearing a helmet,
some said that a head with helmet would not fit under a RV-6 canopy.
Has anybody out there tried it and found that it did work?
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
well, you can wear
glasses under it. I got mine from Aviation Artifacts in
St Louis. I don't
have a phone # here for them but I got excellent service
and a very nice,
servicable, surplus helmet with new padding and like new
or new electronics
installed in it. All at a fair price.
A short story, I lost a tip over canopy once and had my
helmet on. The
HGU-55 visor is held on by elastic and it departed as
well. The chin strap
held and the helmet prevented my glasses from blowing
off, which was a
lifesaver, possibly literally!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flop Tube O-Ring |
>I have read that the Flop Tube O-Ring will eventually deteriorate and fall
>off in my fuel tank. Some have taken it off and put Pro Seal in its place.
>Do any of you know of a better option, maybe an O-Ring of a more suitable
>material ?
>
Mark,
Why take it off? Just use a little pro-seal to glue the o-ring in place and
it will never come off.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Saga of the tail springs revisited |
Listers,
Some of you may remember a discussion on tail springs we had a couple of
weeks ago. I had removed my own springs on my RV-6 and replaced them
with a steel tube with rod end bearings mounted on the ends. I flew the
configuration for about 15 hours and really enjoyed the quick steering
response.
There was one problem that I never resolved. The swivel tail wheel on my
installation unlocks just before the rudder hits the stop. It was
impossible to get the length adjustment on the steering link just right
with different loading configurations. The tail wheel bends as pilot and
passenger board. The wheel would always release, but with more of a snap
than I was comfortable with. I did't want to cause undue wear on the
internal pin and arm. As well there was concern over the amount of shock
that now would be transmitted into the rudder.
I now have a solution that resolves these problems. I put the old chains
and springs back on.
Only kidding. What I did was use a .065" wall 1/2" tube for one side and
a .065" 3/8" tube for the other side. The 1/2 tube was reamed to
smoothly accept the 3/8 tube which I lightly polished. Two lock washers
were opened up slightly and welded to each tube (a metric 12mm fits
snuggly on a 1/2 tube). A stiff door compression spring was threaded on
to each washer. The dimensions of each tube are such that at extreme
travel of the rudder and wheel they won't come apart. Also a 1/2 sleeve
tacked on to the 3/8 tube to mount the washer acts as a stop on the
reverse travel. The spring was tacked to the washers to safety it from
rotating out. I packed the spring with grease and shrink tubed a boot
over the spring and sliding bits. The end result is a semi solid link
that only needs to be mounted on one side.
Advantages:
The handling is not quite as lively as before, but better than with the
chains. It "looks" less draggy. It should stop any inflight flutter that
I was experiencing with the chains. No weight penalty. It looks cool!! I
have the only one!! Just might increase speed :-)
Disadvantages:
It's now more of a maintenance item. Pre-flight will include checking
free travel of the assembly. Potential for dirt and water to seize up
the slider. Higher cost(rod ends aren't cheap). Just might decrease
speed :-)
I will going to Fulton NY for the RV thing this weekend, if anyone is
interested in taking a look.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV (with really cool steering assembly)
--
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
--
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | YBoulais1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: looking for Nav/com |
I am looking for a good Nav/com prefer kx155 w/GS but would consider other
model too. As to be in good working condition and complete.
Yboulais1(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Order in the mail! |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>Well folks, I ordered my 6A tail feathers yesterday.
>Now that I've taken that turn down the pathway, I'll be following the
>postings more intently.
>
>Ralph Capen
>Dallas, TX
>RV6A Tail on the way
>
Welcome and congratulations, Ralph. The longest journey begins with
the first step, as they say.
Have you been to an Orndorff class up there? Did wonders for _my_
confidence!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 emp, elevators on the bench, wings on the waaayyy!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rudder Pedals |
>If I get a credit back of $100 for the adjustable set, and they already
charged me
>$192 for the non-adjustable set, doesn't that mean that the
non-adjustable pedals
>are more expensive? This is what Cynthia told me, and I was wondering
if I had
>misunderstood her.Moe Colontonio
>http://members.bellatlantic.net
>
>> >Yes, the adjustable rudder pedals are more expensive, and yes you
>> >should get
>> >back a credit of around $100.00, as I recall. You will like the
non-
>> >adjustables much better, as well as being one-half the weight.
Say whaaat??
I emailed Van's last night asking about just this very subject. I
haven't heard back from them yet. Since I'm in "economizer" mode now
with my project, any additional expense isn't warranted. I'll pass on
any information they send me.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
gear boxes underway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
I think I will not need to take the stick tube out (long one). And thanks to
your suggestions I figured out how to (Dah)get the tube out without removing
the wing. I have gotten the measured travel 30 up and 17 down on both
aileron by screwing the tie rod bearing out on each end of the tie rod
connecting the bellcrank with the aileron. I left slightly more than 50% of
the threads threaded. I recall reading somewhere reasonly that 50% was
acceptable, I thought it was in the Rvator. I could not find anything on
this subject in the AC 43.13. Anyone have other information that disagrees
with the 50% figure?
Scott, I can not put the elevator on due to working space at this time,
however the elevator tube is connected and was adjusted for final
installation. I pushed the stick into all the corners and checked all the
clearances. They all seem to be just fine in this configuration. I did
find that the right hand stick which has a lip where the removable stick
joins the rest of the monkey motion. It catches on the F-604. But the F-604
can be filed to clear it I believe.
Is there somewhere that it could bind that I am not following in your post
Scott?
Thank for your responses!
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 finishing 1M details
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
It is my sad duty to report the passing of Ted Harris of Langley, B.C.
Ted was the "Uncle Ted" in my posts.
He was an ardent RV flyer who enjoyed some 250 hrs in his 6 until just a
week ago when he was doing his annual.
Ted was a long time career Air Force man and had an illustrious career
flying the big twin rotor helicopters in Search and Rescue.
He quite literally put his life on the line many times to pluck someone to
safety.
I thank the powers that be that let me have this fine gentleman as a friend
so late in life and we flew many times together "in company". He was the
one that made it possible for me to see and enjoy many of the realms of
flight that can only happen when you team up and fly together.
I know his spirit will forever soar along the river and salmon grounds
and up the sweeping slopes beyond the tree lines where the green valley
opens to the flat lands leading to the sea. He loved to fly here and it is
where he gave me my first RV ride.
I will miss him sorely as will we all. A true gentleman and I am glad
that I told him so......Now he can join all his other Air Force buddies who
await him.
Austin Tinckler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Any IO-360-C1C's In any RV-6's? |
Does anyone know of anyone with an IO-360-C1C in an RV-6? (NOT a 6A)!
Although I would like to hear of anyone who has done it in a 6A also. I
know I have to machine open the boss on the front of the C1C sump to fit
the throttle body up front but I was wondering if anyone has installed this
engine in a six. I know of two RV-4's with this installation and I still
have to call the guy who did those and talk to him but I was wondering if
anyone has done it for a six yet? Thanks.... Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Saga of the tail springs revisited |
Terry, I recall Steve Wittman had a single rod installation for tail wheel
steering on several airplanes he built including the Tailwind. I only seen
pictures of his. Is your anything like his or was his just solid tube.
Your unit sound interesting. I am building a separate tailwheel bracket to
hold a 4 inch wheel to put on a wheel pant and still keep the full swivel in
effect. One fellow angle his bracket down to keep the six inch wheel and
get a wheel pant on and clear the full swivel. His method might have been
better for landings as the tailwheel would closer to hitting near the same
time as the mains.
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 finishing 1M details
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Avery/Orndorff/Hicks Field |
I flew down to Fort Worth yesterday and met the Averys and the Orndorffs.
What a SUPER bunch of people. I told both that they were respected names
in the RV circles, and like Van himself, were reputed to be honest, fair,
and stood by their works and services. So if'n they read this, thanks for
the time and the introductions.
I will say that Hicks Field was one of the more intimidating little strips
I've graced... never had the sensation that one minor little crosswind
could blow you into an oncoming train! And the guy with the little cafe
there makes a bitchin' burger.
For the unitiated, I stayed below DFW's Class "B" airspace and called Fort
Worth Alliance's approach control... told them I was unfamiliar with the
airspace and would appreciate vectors into Hicks. They obliged willingly
and were very friendly. I'd recommend the trip to anyone who is getting
their feet wet in the RV realm...
// s //
Bradley W. Kidder, Jr.
sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net
ICQ# 11770815
RV-6A (empennage)
N188FW (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Longeron Shipping |
If you're looking to replace aluminum stock, and not parts worked or formed
by Van's, then you'll probably be better off to just locate the nearest
industrial supply warehouse.
My local one will order anything that they don't have in stock for no
extra charge, and it usually arrives in one or two days.
Aluminum angle (make sure you specify the alloy and hardness, i.e. 6061-T6)
is almost as common as dirt, so they'll have no problem getting it for you.
It'll be lots cheaper than having something shipped all the way from Oregon.
'Rob
Port St. Lucie, FL
RV6A wings on fuselage, upside down in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rudder Pedals |
Moe, I believe what generally happens is that Van's will issue a full (or
nearly so) credit for the returned rudder pedal kit which will result in a
net credit of $100 after subtracting the charge for the new one. It will
probably take a few days to get the paperwork, so hang tight. If it isn't
forthcoming in a couple of weeks, then e-mail Van's and inquire. (This is
based on my experience in dealing with Van's for over 10 years.)
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA (repeat offender)
>
>If I get a credit back of $100 for the adjustable set, and they already
charged me
>$192 for the non-adjustable set, doesn't that mean that the non-adjustable
pedals
>are more expensive? This is what Cynthia told me, and I was wondering if I
had
>misunderstood her.Moe Colontonio
>http://members.bellatlantic.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Saga of the tail springs revisited |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> Terry, I recall Steve Wittman had a single rod installation for tail wheel
> steering on several airplanes he built including the Tailwind. I only seen
> pictures of his. Is your anything like his or was his just solid tube.
I am not familiar with what Steve Wittman used. There has been some
discussion in the past that he did use a solid tube.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Longeron Shipping |
>the two aluminum angles he has been saving from his wing kit are not
>the
>fourteen foot length he needs. Van is telling him shipping will be
>over
>$100.00 for these two items.
>Bentley Floyd
>Bowling Green KY
>AA5A N9985U
>
Call Metal Super Market @ 972-445-2008 in Dallas & see if they have a
sister Co. or contacks in your area. They were real nice when I needed
the longeron.
Someone else cut it up, not me.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Saga of the tail springs revisited |
Denny,
I built a Tailwind. It uses a solid 4130 tube between the rudder and the
tail wheel on the right side. Works great. You can also arrange a simple
procedure to disconnect the rod from the tail wheel to give you a full
swivel tail wheel when man handling the airplane on the ground.
Terry,
I've read your description and am unable to clearly understand how you did
yours. Is the spring on the outside of the rod? What prevents the 1/2 inch
and the 3/8 inch tubes from sliding apart?
Bob
San Antonio
RV-6; fiberglass work
I am not familiar with what Steve Wittman used. There has been some
discussion in the past that he did use a solid tube.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers around the KY area,
There's a pretty good fly-in at Falls of Rough state park tomorrow,
September 12. I'd like to see some of you there. I need to take some
more pictures of good ideas. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Trying to finish the cowl)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louise Coats <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Saga of the tail springs revisited |
>
>I now have a solution that resolves these problems. I put the old chains
>and springs back on.
>Advantages:
>The handling is not quite as lively as before, but better than with the
>chains. It "looks" less draggy. It should stop any inflight flutter that
>I was experiencing with the chains.
I used some heat shrink plastic that you use over electrical joins on the
steering chains to make it "less draggy" though I did not experience the
inflight flutter that you mention with the chains. Guess my feet are not
too sensitive - although 'down under' I always fly in my socks for better
feel! (John Crate will vouch for that!). I did find the shackle that
attaches the chain to the steering arm does not get caught now, nor the
chain kinked.
Louise
L Coats ZK-RVL 278hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rudder Pedals |
Good question Moe, I guess it depends on if you already paid for the
adjustable set with your QB. I'm interested as I want the ground adjustable
set too. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage complete, QB due in Nov., Chandler,
AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Date: Friday, September 11, 1998 5:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Rudder Pedals
>
>If I get a credit back of $100 for the adjustable set, and they already
charged me
>$192 for the non-adjustable set, doesn't that mean that the non-adjustable
pedals
>are more expensive? This is what Cynthia told me, and I was wondering if I
had
>misunderstood her.Moe Colontonio
>http://members.bellatlantic.net
>
>> >Yes, the adjustable rudder pedals are more expensive, and yes you
>> >should get
>> >back a credit of around $100.00, as I recall. You will like the non-
>> >adjustables much better, as well as being one-half the weight.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Order in the mail! |
I agree Ralph. Take George's class, it helps and he and Becky are right
over in Ft. Worth. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage complete, QB due in Nov.,
Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
Date: Friday, September 11, 1998 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Order in the mail!
>
>In a previous message, it was written:
>>
>>Well folks, I ordered my 6A tail feathers yesterday.
>>Now that I've taken that turn down the pathway, I'll be following the
>>postings more intently.
>>
>>Ralph Capen
>>Dallas, TX
>>RV6A Tail on the way
>>
>
>Welcome and congratulations, Ralph. The longest journey begins with
>the first step, as they say.
>Have you been to an Orndorff class up there? Did wonders for _my_
>confidence!
>
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 emp, elevators on the bench, wings on the waaayyy!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airbox part Alignment |
squese the filter to make it fit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: looking for Nav/com |
The Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | O-360/CS Prop RPM Restriction |
>> I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling that I
>> have valid information about the restricted RPM range. I think you
>> must have reached someone different at Hartzell. Would you mind sharing
>> more of the table?
>
>The table is from an FAA document -- the FAA propeller Type Certificate
>for this type of prop. It's publication (or TC number) P-920.
The complete Type Certificate Data Sheet is available in PDF format
at <http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/p-920.pdf>.
I converted an extract covering Hartzell Propeller models HC-C2Y,
BHC-C2Y, CHC-C2Y and DHC-C2Y. It lists the Lycoming O & IO 320 & 360
engines approved for use with these propellers, and gives any
restricted rpm ranges. This extract is on my web site at
<http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/proptcds.html>.
I had to do some cut and paste to get this in HTML format - I don't
think I screwed any of it up, but I strongly encourage you to use the
official version from the FAA (address listed above).
As the operator of an amateur built aircraft, it is not mandatory
that you follow the rpm restictions. However, you would be very
foolish to ignore them, because eventually the resonance could cause
crankshaft or propeller failure.
Going back to the workshop,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Order in the mail! |
dont forge abline Oct 15 Southwest EAA convention might even scab a ride
in the co. demo.
and am saddened to hear about a loss in the
rescue community. Take care.
B. Trubee
RV-4
finishing the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Longeron Shipping |
B and F aircraft supply had the 14ft longeron in stock when I needed to
replace one of mine [you can guess the reason] they are in New Lenox IL
southwest of Chicago by 50 miles and I think it cost me about 25$.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: B and F aircraft phone no.for longeron |
Forgot to provide B and F phone no, 815 462-3696 and fax no. 815462 3697.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ERemmers(at)aol.com |
Hi list,
what is the preferred (minimum) vertical spacing between horizontal bar and
ceiling for tail and wing jig? I understand, that horizontal bar should be on
same height as the workbench.
Enno Remmers
Siegburg/Germany
RV-8 tail on order
Workshop/jig preparing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Rudder Pedals |
In a message dated 9/11/98 3:29:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< >If I get a credit back of $100 for the adjustable set, and they already
charged me
>$192 for the non-adjustable set, doesn't that mean that the
non-adjustable pedals
>are more expensive? This is what Cynthia told me, and I was wondering
if I had
>misunderstood her.Moe Colontonio
>http://members.bellatlantic.net
>
>> >Yes, the adjustable rudder pedals are more expensive, and yes you
>> >should get
>> >back a credit of around $100.00, as I recall. You will like the
non-
>> >adjustables much better, as well as being one-half the weight.
Say whaaat??
I emailed Van's last night asking about just this very subject. I
haven't heard back from them yet. Since I'm in "economizer" mode now
with my project, any additional expense isn't warranted. I'll pass on
any information they send me.
>>
This higher math makes my head hurt. I received my fuse last spring with the
ground adjustable pedals. Looking at my invoice, which details the credit for
the in-flight adjustable pedals and the cost of the ground adjustable pedals,
it appears I received a credit in the amount of $171.02. Those in-flight
pedals are expensive in comparison.
Rick McBride
80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | O-360/CS Prop RPM Restriction |
>> I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling that I
>> have valid information about the restricted RPM range. I think you
>> must have reached someone different at Hartzell. Would you mind sharing
>> more of the table?
>
>The table is from an FAA document -- the FAA propeller Type Certificate
>for this type of prop. It's publication (or TC number) P-920.
The complete Type Certificate Data Sheet is available in PDF format
at <http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/tcds/tc/tcdsvol5/p-920.pdf>.
I converted an extract covering Hartzell Propeller models HC-C2Y,
BHC-C2Y, CHC-C2Y and DHC-C2Y. It lists the Lycoming O & IO 320 & 360
engines approved for use with these propellers, and gives any
restricted rpm ranges. This extract is on my web site at
<http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/proptcds.html>.
I had to do some cut and paste to get this in HTML format - I don't
think I screwed any of it up, but I strongly encourage you to use the
official version from the FAA (address listed above).
As the operator of an amateur built aircraft, it is not mandatory
that you follow the rpm restictions. However, you would be very
foolish to ignore them, because eventually the resonance could cause
crankshaft or propeller failure.
Going back to the workshop,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longeron Shipping |
-
>
>If you're looking to replace aluminum stock, and not parts worked or formed
>by Van's, then you'll probably be better off to just locate the nearest
>industrial supply warehouse.
>
Be careful here. The angle stock from Van's does not have a sharp interior
corner, but instead has a radius for stress relief.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jig measures |
ERemmers(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi list,
> what is the preferred (minimum) vertical spacing between horizontal bar and
> ceiling for tail and wing jig? I understand, that horizontal bar should be on
> same height as the workbench.
> Enno Remmers
> Siegburg/Germany
> RV-8 tail on order
> Workshop/jig preparing
>
Enno,
My horizontal beam was about 32" from the floor. The HS will extend
about 25" above the beam and the VS will extend about 31" above the
beam. I have a tightly stretched wire stretched from one verticle beam
to the other that is 51" above the horizontal beam. The plumb bob hangs
from the wire. I would have the horizontal beam at a height that will
allow you to work comfortable and perhaps sit on a stool and work. The
two verticle beams are the ones that are critical. For my -6a they are
around 107" apart, but I don't know what the -8 needs to be.
Good Luck and welcome to the list.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6a wing stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Rough River Ky.-Fly-In |
Jim, is'nt it also Sun. the 13th, too? I was planning on coming in on that
Sunday.
Too many other fly-ins Sat. I am going to three.!! Gary and RV-3 N5AJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Listers,
I found an inexpensive magnaflux kit that will allow checking for cracks in
your nose gear leg. The kit is available from U.S. Industrial Tool for $54.00
and includes complete instructions and enough material to check hundreds of
RV's. The part number is TP269EK. Phone (800) 521-4800, or
http//www.ustool.com. This could be cheap insurance, especially if several
RV'ers share a kit.
Jim Cone
RV-6A QB on the road to me!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avery/Orndorff/Hicks Field |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>For the unitiated, I stayed below DFW's Class "B" airspace and called
>Fort
>Worth Alliance's approach control... told them I was unfamiliar with
>the
>airspace and would appreciate vectors into Hicks. They obliged
>willingly
>and were very friendly. I'd recommend the trip to anyone who is
>getting
>their feet wet in the RV realm...
>
-
Hmmm, I wonder if this has anything to do with Dwayne, and Sam, and a
number of others from Hicks that built RV's and now fly them in that area
who also happen to be controllers in the south central U.S. region.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Saga of the tail springs revisited |
Robert D. Cabe wrote:
>
> Denny,
>
> I built a Tailwind. It uses a solid 4130 tube between the rudder and the
> tail wheel on the right side. Works great. You can also arrange a simple
> procedure to disconnect the rod from the tail wheel to give you a full
> swivel tail wheel when man handling the airplane on the ground.
>
> Terry,
>
> I've read your description and am unable to clearly understand how you did
> yours. Is the spring on the outside of the rod? What prevents the 1/2 inch
> and the 3/8 inch tubes from sliding apart?
I guess I can think more clearly than I can write. I will post some pictures on
my
web page to show how I did it. Yes, the spring is on the outside and works in
compression and tension. The rods can't come apart because I made them long enough
that at the most extreme travel of the rudder and tailwheel they stay connected.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-CZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Saga of the tail springs revisited |
Louise Coats wrote:
>
> >
> >I now have a solution that resolves these problems. I put the old chains
> >and springs back on.
> >Advantages:
> >The handling is not quite as lively as before, but better than with the
> >chains. It "looks" less draggy. It should stop any inflight flutter that
> >I was experiencing with the chains.
>
> I used some heat shrink plastic that you use over electrical joins on the
> steering chains to make it "less draggy" though I did not experience the
> inflight flutter that you mention with the chains. Guess my feet are not
I did the same thing. I even "shrink tubed" the springs. That I suspect created
a
tube that became a lifting body during flight. I plugged the tube with foam and
the most extreme flutter went away.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-CZRV
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airbox part Alignment |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
> I've checked the archives for data on this, but to no avail. While
>starting the assembly process of my new airbox last night, I found
>that
>the 3/16" bolt holes in the VA-130C Mount Plate and VA-130D filter
>plate
>were not all in alignment. Two of the holes were outside the inside
>diameter of the filter. Has anybody else seen this problem?
>
>Fred Stucklen
>
-
Fred,
The holes in the VA-130C plate that mounts to the carb. were
intentionally positioned outside of the position for the same holes in
the bottom VA-130D plate. I think if you hold the VA-130C carb plate up
to the carb you will see that they have been displaced to prevent
interference with the carb body that would prevent you from getting a
wrench on them.
You just end up spreading the filter very slightly at the top so that it
is just outside of the bolts.
Hope this explains the difference.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
positioned outside of the
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Rigging |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I think I will not need to take the stick tube out (long one). And
>thanks to
>your suggestions I figured out how to (Dah)get the tube out without
>removing
>the wing. I have gotten the measured travel 30 up and 17 down on both
>aileron by screwing the tie rod bearing out on each end of the tie rod
>connecting the bellcrank with the aileron. I left slightly more than
>50% of
>the threads threaded. I recall reading somewhere reasonly that 50%
>was
>acceptable, I thought it was in the Rvator. I could not find anything
>on
>this subject in the AC 43.13. Anyone have other information that
>disagrees
>with the 50% figure?
>
>Scott, I can not put the elevator on due to working space at this
>time,
>however the elevator tube is connected and was adjusted for final
>installation. I pushed the stick into all the corners and checked all
>the
>clearances. They all seem to be just fine in this configuration. I
>did
>find that the right hand stick which has a lip where the removable
>stick
>joins the rest of the monkey motion. It catches on the F-604. But the
>F-604
>can be filed to clear it I believe.
>
>Is there somewhere that it could bind that I am not following in your
>post
Possibly. It is hard to describe, but I will try again.
A rod end that has no binding when in its installed state can be rocked
back and forth slightly in rotation.
If it is ever in any position that you can not rotate (rock) it slightly
then it bound up.
This is hard to check with out the elevators hooked up because they
provide the control stops that limit the stick to its maximum for and aft
travel.
You can just make a note to double check it at final assy. when you have
everything hooked up.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Longeron Shipping |
<< Aluminum angle (make sure you specify the alloy and hardness, i.e. 6061-T6)
is almost as common as dirt, >>
Heck, aluminum is just refined dirt.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimNolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Rough River Ky.-Fly-In |
Gary,
Going to Speedway tomorrow, Marion, Ohio Sunday. Can't make them all.
Jim Nolan
Horizontal Stab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Longeron Shipping |
<< Be careful here. The angle stock from Van's does not have a sharp interior
corner, but instead has a radius for stress relief. >>
FYI, the radiused corner extruded angle is referred to as "structural" angle
per QQ-A-200/8 and is 6061-T6. The extrusion with sharp corners is referred
to as "architectural" angle per QQ-A-200/9 and is 6063-T5. The latter is not
used in aircraft structures.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Cracks |
At this price it isn't a Magnaflux system its a Dye Penetrant.
Dye Penetrant wont pick cracks below the surface or inside the tube.
Magnaflux which uses a strong magnetic field will as the dye is
attracted to magnetic discontinuities caused by cracks or buried
defects.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Cracks
Date: 11-09-98 22:13
Listers,
I found an inexpensive magnaflux kit that will allow checking for cracks in
your nose gear leg. The kit is available from U.S. Industrial Tool for $54.00
and includes complete instructions and enough material to check hundreds of
RV's. The part number is TP269EK. Phone (800) 521-4800, or
http//www.ustool.com. This could be cheap insurance, especially if several
RV'ers share a kit.
Jim Cone
RV-6A QB on the road to me!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Jig measures |
> ERemmers(at)aol.com wrote:
> what is the preferred (minimum) vertical spacing between
> horizontal bar and ceiling for tail and wing jig? I understand,
> that horizontal bar should be on same height as the workbench.
The horizontal beam is not used to build the wings.
I found it convenient to have the top of the beam at the same height as
the top of my workbench (I could rest long items between workbench and
beam) but it wasn't really important. That height also worked out about
right for convenient working... most work was about right when standing,
just occasionally I needed to stand on a chair to work on high items,
and I could duck under the beam to get to the other side. Bear in mind
it's easier to stand on a chair for something that's a bit high than to
duck down to work on something that's too low.
If you check the chord of your HS and VS, you'll be able to figure the
*absolute* *minimum* distance between ceiling and beam. Bear in mind
that there will be situations where you'll want to work in that space,
so add a foot or so to that... I'd guess about 3-4 feet in total.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Rough River Ky.-Fly-In |
Yes, Gary. It's also on Sunday; but, the best day is on Saturday. The
Sunday part is usually very slow. On the other hand, the breakfast is
just as good. Sorry I'll miss you. Seems you'll have your hands full with
the other three! Glad I got to see you in Salem. Man, was that a hot
one!
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris east" <easty(at)tm.net.my> |
| Subject: | Location of QB kits in Malaysia |
Hi , just wonder if anyone knows where in Malaysia the quick build kits are
being assembled, as i going to be living here for a while.
Chris East
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Cracks |
Most welding suppliers have them locally for less than $30. Magnaflux makes
a compact one for around $19.
-----Original Message-----
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com <JamesCone(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, September 11, 1998 11:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Cracks
>
>Listers,
>
>I found an inexpensive magnaflux kit that will allow checking for cracks in
>your nose gear leg. The kit is available from U.S. Industrial Tool for
$54.00
>and includes complete instructions and enough material to check hundreds of
>RV's. The part number is TP269EK. Phone (800) 521-4800, or
>http//www.ustool.com. This could be cheap insurance, especially if several
>RV'ers share a kit.
>
>Jim Cone
>RV-6A QB on the road to me!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TERRYBENZER" <TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net> |
Do you pilot drill (#40) at 1 1/2" , ,just mark the location, or
not do anything and mark and drill (3/16) when mating to
the fuselage? Same question for the vs rear spar? I
assume you can get to these locations to mark and
drill when mating to the fuselage. Just finished cutting
and polishing the hs-810&814 and don't want to have
to redo them.
tia,
Terry #80800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TERRYBENZER" <TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net> |
Do you pilot drill at the 1 1/2" point in the hs-810/814, just mark the
location, or not do anything right now and mark and drill (3/16) when mating
to the fuselage? Same question for the vs. I assume that you can get to
these locations to measure, mark, and drill when mating to the fuselage.
Just finished cutting and polishing the 810/814 and don't want to have to
redo them.
tia
Terry #80800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Location of QB kits in Malaysia |
I have responded directly to Chris with this info. If anyone else is
interested, please respond off list. Thanks.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Hi , just wonder if anyone knows where in Malaysia the quick build kits are
>being assembled, as i going to be living here for a while.
>
>Chris East
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Do you pilot drill (#40) at 1 1/2" , ,just mark the location, or
>not do anything and mark and drill (3/16) when mating to
>the fuselage? Same question for the vs rear spar? I
>assume you can get to these locations to mark and
>drill when mating to the fuselage. Just finished cutting
>and polishing the hs-810&814 and don't want to have
>to redo them.
>
>
Any time a hole is to be drilled in assy. it is best to not do anything
with that location until you are actually ready to mate it to another
part/assembly.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Paint (spray cans) |
I'm painting various weldments (flap lever, rudder pedals, etc), which I
intend to be a different color than the rest of the interior of my airplane.
I'm trying to avoid purchasing a quart of something expensive (Imron,
whatever) for such a small job. I'm looking for a brand of canned spray paint
which is extremely durable. I've tried a couple of brands, including
rustoleum, and none pass the "thumbnail test" in which I use my thumbnail to
scratch off "cured" paint.
Any brand suggestions?
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 gear weldments |
g'day fellow -8 builders,
I've been wrestling with the WD-822 gear box weldments and encountered
something you may want to watch out for:
Along the bottom of the weldment, there are three holes to be drilled in
assembly with the forward and aft floor angles, where AN3-5A bolts will
be installed. the outer holes came out perfectly placed for me, the
middle holes, however, were right inline with an upward bend in the main
plate steel component of the weldment. Thus, no room for the washer and
nut, and too much weld material buildup to allow for them to seat
properly. I'm sure this is not common to all builders, due to tolerance
stack up of varying degrees, but keep an eye out for it when you're
drilling the gear box assemblies into the fuselage. The only way to
clear out this area for me is to use a die grinder to remove some steel
from the area, not much, but just enough to allow for insertion of the
washer and nut. Oh, and make sure you have a few extra drill bits.
Drilling fast, slow or somewhere inbetween, I still managed to snap two
#30s. And, make sure you hold your tongue right while drilling..that's
very important.
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
gear box drama underway, and buying stock in a drill bit company
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A demo flight |
Yesterday I drove down to North-Plains and took the $30,000 free ride in
N58VA.
To resume in one word, WOW!
This is the closest thing I've flown to the old Tutor jet trainer in the
Canadian Forces.
I was already pretty well decided on the RV-8, but now I'm hooked!
My thanks to Bill Benedict for the hospitality down at Van's.
Any RV-8 builders from the Seattle area on this list? I'm in Bellevue, and
will be starting construction in October. I'll be posting my progress on my
personal web site below.
Sylvain Duford
sylvain(at)duford.com
http://www.duford.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Brake pressure/lines |
What kind of pressure are experienced in the lines from the master to
wheel cylinders?
More than 125 PSI?
What kind of tubing from bulkhead fittings to master cylinders does Van
deliver with the finishing kits?
(The AEOQUIP teflon surplus assemblied I picked up at Sun'n'Fun are too
short to flex easily - so I'm looking at an local alternative.)
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint (spray cans) |
I do not recall a Brand name, but I have found Epoxy in spray cans that I
used to paint the engine mount. It is "tough as nails" and not too
expensive - around $3/can as I recall and very convenient to use. As to
color selection, a wide range was available WHEN I found it; not always
easy to do unless you happen to live where large
hardware/lumber/home-depot-type stores are located.I doubt you'll find
anything more durable than Expoxy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
>
>Do you pilot drill (#40) at 1 1/2" , ,just mark the location, or
>not do anything and mark and drill (3/16) when mating to
>the fuselage? Same question for the vs rear spar? I
>assume you can get to these locations to mark and
>drill when mating to the fuselage. Just finished cutting
>and polishing the hs-810&814 and don't want to have
>to redo them.
>
>tia,
> Terry #80800
==============================================
I used round stickers to indicated htat I will drill "in assy later"
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 gear weldments |
In a message dated 9/12/98 4:41:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< Along the bottom of the weldment, there are three holes to be drilled in
assembly with the forward and aft floor angles, where AN3-5A bolts will
be installed. the outer holes came out perfectly placed for me, the
middle holes, however, were right inline with an upward bend in the main
plate steel component of the weldment. Thus, no room for the washer and
nut, and too much weld material buildup to allow for them to seat
properly. I'm sure this is not common to all builders, due to tolerance
stack up of varying degrees, but keep an eye out for it when you're
drilling the gear box assemblies into the fuselage. The only way to
clear out this area for me is to use a die grinder to remove some steel
from the area, not much, but just enough to allow for insertion of the
washer and nut. >>
Brian,
Actually, I think this is probably common to all the -8s. I just went through
the same experience and had the exact problem. As you, I removed just enough
steel to fit a nut and washer. Hope that'll work.
Rick McBride
80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 gear weldments |
One can clip the edge of a washer or two. You can use the MS21042-3 style
reduced dimension nuts as well if you need more clearance. They are only
5/16" in diameter instead of the AN which is about 7/16" in diameter.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 3:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 gear weldments
>
>g'day fellow -8 builders,
>
>I've been wrestling with the WD-822 gear box weldments and encountered
>something you may want to watch out for:
>
>Along the bottom of the weldment, there are three holes to be drilled in
>assembly with the forward and aft floor angles, where AN3-5A bolts will
>be installed. the outer holes came out perfectly placed for me, the
>middle holes, however, were right inline with an upward bend in the main
>plate steel component of the weldment. Thus, no room for the washer and
>nut, and too much weld material buildup to allow for them to seat
>properly. I'm sure this is not common to all builders, due to tolerance
>stack up of varying degrees, but keep an eye out for it when you're
>drilling the gear box assemblies into the fuselage. The only way to
>clear out this area for me is to use a die grinder to remove some steel
>from the area, not much, but just enough to allow for insertion of the
>washer and nut. Oh, and make sure you have a few extra drill bits.
>Drilling fast, slow or somewhere inbetween, I still managed to snap two
>#30s. And, make sure you hold your tongue right while drilling..that's
>very important.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 #379
>gear box drama underway, and buying stock in a drill bit company
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint (spray cans) |
Krylon has an epoxy paint in a spray can. You should use the primer as
well.
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 3:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Paint (spray cans)
>
>
>I'm painting various weldments (flap lever, rudder pedals, etc), which I
>intend to be a different color than the rest of the interior of my
airplane.
>I'm trying to avoid purchasing a quart of something expensive (Imron,
>whatever) for such a small job. I'm looking for a brand of canned spray
paint
>which is extremely durable. I've tried a couple of brands, including
>rustoleum, and none pass the "thumbnail test" in which I use my thumbnail
to
>scratch off "cured" paint.
>
>Any brand suggestions?
>
>KB
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Buying Previously Owned Kits |
Listers:
What are the appropriate questions to ask of one who has an "unopened"
empennage kit for sale?
What questions should I direct to Vans?
What arrangements are typically made when dealing with an unknown
individual over the internet? I am a bit reluctant to send $$ to someone
I don't know, and I haven't seen the goods. Likewise, I'm sure the
individual on the other end would be reluctant to send anything to an
absoulute stranger without the money in hand.
Does ups take c.o.d.?
Any advice is appreciated.
thanks!
martin shorman
lawton, ia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | F-6117A Brake side plate |
I'm getting ready to drill brake cylinders to side plates and on drawing
43a
it states to (CHECK RUDDER PEDAL TILT BEFORE DRILLING IN ASSY
WITH MASTER CYlINDERS) I've got great clearance and all looks good
what are they asking for?
Regards- Mike Comeaux
RV6A-QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Cracks |
Magnaflux had a booth at Oshkosh. They were selling a kit for $15.00. It
included solvent, red penetrant and white developer. They may sell it
direct. I hadn't heard about the gear problem at the time so I passed it
by.
By the way, dye penetrants don't work over paint. Mechanical removal of
paint before checking is not recommended either because the burnishing
action tends to smear the cracks over at the surface.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com <JamesCone(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, September 11, 1998 9:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Cracks
>
>Listers,
>
>I found an inexpensive magnaflux kit that will allow checking for cracks in
>your nose gear leg. The kit is available from U.S. Industrial Tool for
$54.00
>and includes complete instructions and enough material to check hundreds of
>RV's. The part number is TP269EK. Phone (800) 521-4800, or
>http//www.ustool.com. This could be cheap insurance, especially if several
>RV'ers share a kit.
>
>Jim Cone
>RV-6A QB on the road to me!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wilson, NC Fly In |
Thanks to all of the list members who came to the Wilson Fly In today. Sorry
I didn't get to speak to all of you, but did enjoy the conversations with the
ones that I did meet.
Regards,
Louis Smith
RV-8 N801RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Burlington Colorado RV Fly-In |
| From: | gretz-aero(at)Juno.com (Warren Gretz) |
This is a reminder of the upcoming RV Fly-In at Burlington Colorado. It
is next weekend, September 19 and 20. We are planning for a very large
number of RV's there. There will be vendor tables with RV related items,
mini-seminars on building RV's, and Van's Aircraft will be represented
(maybe even Van I am told). The banquet Saturday evening is always
enjoyed by all. This is an informal Fly-In that has been enjoyed by all
in the past years. It just keeps getting bigger. There is a large number
of people coming in Friday evening and staying until Sunday.
For information about the Fly-In, or information about where to stay,
contact John Stewart in Burlington at (719) 346-8741 or you may contact
me at the number below.
Warren Gretz, (Gretz Aero)
3664 East Lake Drive
Littleton, CO 80121
(303) 770-3811
gretz-aero(at)juno.com
0 Kevin Horton
writes:
>
>RV listers,
>
>I have ordered Warren Gretz's mount for the AN5812 pitot tube (the
>one without the static source). I am about ready to drill all the
>holes in my wing ribs. Where should I drill the holes for the pitot
>line run? In the same place as Van's installation? If they need to
>be somewhere else, please provide locating dimensions.
>
>I'm sure this would all be clear if I had the mount, but I was slow
>ordering it.
>
>Thanks for your help,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying Previously Owned Kits |
Martin Shorman wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
>
> What are the appropriate questions to ask of one who has an "unopened"
> empennage kit for sale?
>
> What questions should I direct to Vans?
>
> What arrangements are typically made when dealing with an unknown
> individual over the internet? I am a bit reluctant to send $$ to someone
> I don't know, and I haven't seen the goods. Likewise, I'm sure the
> individual on the other end would be reluctant to send anything to an
> absoulute stranger without the money in hand.
>
> Does ups take c.o.d.?
>
> Any advice is appreciated.
>
> thanks!
>
> martin shorman
> lawton, ia
>
Martin,
Yes, UPS does ship COD. You should try to build a rapore with the
seller.
Find out how old the kit is and then contact Van's to see if you'll need
any mods.
Outside of pre punch, I don't think the kits have changed a great deal
in the last few years.
I have found most RV builders very trust worthy. I've sold a $12,000
engine
and an $7500 hull to two builders who wrote me personal checks with no
problems at all.
Both were over 2500 miles away from me.
I've had others ship me products based on my word to send them the
payment.
The guy with the titanium tie-downs does the same.
Once your fairly confident, write up a written agreement and both of you
sign it.
Also, find out where he lives and see who else is in his area on the
list who might vouch for him.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAlexan533(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | How to tell wire gauge? |
Listers;
I have quite a bit of tefzel aircraft wire that I obtained some time ago. It
is of various gauges, and my question is, how do you tell what gauge each wire
is? These do not have the gauge printed on them anywhere. Is there some method
to tell?
Von Alexander
MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to tell wire gauge? |
Von ....
If it's aircraft wire to a MIL spec (most of it is), then it _will_
be marked on the wire, at least every foot. Something like this..
M22759/16-18 followed by some other numbers.
...M22579 is the paricular MIL-spec, the /16 is the type of wire
(this is Tefzel) and the last number (the -18) is the guage of the wire.
On smaller wire, these numbers might be very small ... get out your
magnifying glasses...:^) If it's not marked at all, I'd be suspicious of
it's origin, and whether it really is Tefzel, or even "aircraft" wire.
A table giving the wire types is in AC43.13A, and M22579/16 is what
is normally sold as Tefzel "aircraft" wire.
Gil Alexander
Los Angeles CA
RV6A, #20701, canopy ... still ...
>
>Listers;
>
>I have quite a bit of tefzel aircraft wire that I obtained some time ago. It
>is of various gauges, and my question is, how do you tell what gauge each
wire
>is? These do not have the gauge printed on them anywhere. Is there some
method
>to tell?
>Von Alexander
>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Rex" <jfr(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint (spray cans) |
I think that paint is one area where you definitely get what you pay for. I
did the spray can thing for my interior steel parts.They looked great, but
every time I bump a painted part into anything...ughh, another chip. The
parts are headed to a friend's autobody shop Monday for a proper paintin'.
Hope this helps.
Joe Rex
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley +ADw-cgalley+AEA-accessus.net+AD4-
Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 4:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint (spray cans)
+AD4-
+AD4-Krylon has an epoxy paint in a spray can. You should use the primer as
+AD4-well.
+AD4------Original Message-----
+AD4-From: KBoatri144+AEA-aol.com +ADw-KBoatri144+AEA-aol.com+AD4-
+AD4-To: RV-list+AEA-matronics.com +ADw-RV-list+AEA-matronics.com+AD4-
+AD4-Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 3:56 PM
+AD4-Subject: RV-List: Paint (spray cans)
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-I'm painting various weldments (flap lever, rudder pedals, etc), which
I
+AD4APg-intend to be a different color than the rest of the interior of my
+AD4-airplane.
+AD4APg-I'm trying to avoid purchasing a quart of something expensive (Imron,
+AD4APg-whatever) for such a small job. I'm looking for a brand of canned spray
+AD4-paint
+AD4APg-which is extremely durable. I've tried a couple of brands, including
+AD4APg-rustoleum, and none pass the +ACI-thumbnail test+ACI- in which I use my
thumbnail
+AD4-to
+AD4APg-scratch off +ACI-cured+ACI- paint.
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-Any brand suggestions?
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-KB
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-
+AD4APg-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
--
+AD4- +AHw- Visit the Matronics +ACY- RV-List Web Sites at http://www.matronics.com
+AHw-
+AHw-
+ACI-rv-list-request+AEA-matronics.com+ACI- +AHw-
+AD4- +AHw- +ACY- put the word +ACIAWw-un+AF0-subscribe+ACI- in the +ACo-body+ACo-.
No other text or
subject. +AHw-
+AHw-
+AHw-
+AD4-
--
+AD4-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint (spray cans) |
>
>I do not recall a Brand name, but I have found Epoxy in spray cans that I
>used to paint the engine mount. It is "tough as nails" and not too
>expensive - around $3/can as I recall and very convenient to use. As to
>color selection, a wide range was available WHEN I found it; not always
>easy to do unless you happen to live where large
>hardware/lumber/home-depot-type stores are located.I doubt you'll find
>anything more durable than Epoxy
... and if you bake it on with a heat lamp (or some other form of
heat) soon after you spray it on, then it will be even more "bulletproof"
... an oven at 160-200F also works well, but this takes a lot of
negotiating (or explaining) with the spouse...:^)
Zynolyte Epoxy Spray is a good brand easy to find here in S. Calif.
I use a zinc chromate (or zinc chromate equivalent) primer first, and have
had really good success with flat blacks ...almost looks like black
anodizing, and as hard as h#$^.
... Gil (honest, I never used the oven..:^) Alexander
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to tell wire gauge? |
>
>Listers;
>
>I have quite a bit of tefzel aircraft wire that I obtained some time ago. It
>is of various gauges, and my question is, how do you tell what gauge each wire
>is? These do not have the gauge printed on them anywhere. Is there some method
>to tell?
>Von Alexander
>MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
The easiest way I can think of off hand is to use a wire stripper.
Just find which hole works properly on that wire.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
1975 JH-5
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:High E.G.T. |
Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Buying Previously Owned Kits |
writes:
>
>Listers:
>
>
>What are the appropriate questions to ask of one who has an "unopened"
>empennage kit for sale?
>
>What questions should I direct to Vans?
================================
I think you would want to take over his acctt # or notify Van's of the
Purchace.
===================================
>thanks!
>
>martin shorman
>lawton, ia
Martin:
you could use your & his bankers, there transfer car titles all the time.
I think both would be happy with a 3rd party.
Don Jordan ~ ~ 6A-fuselage
donspawn(at)juno.com ~ Arlington, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-6117A Brake side plate |
You want the pedals to be in the same plane (duh), I mean, where the hole
location is will determine if the pedals will be parallel to one another.
Also, if the pedals tilt back too far, it could be uncomfortable to use the
rudder without activating the brakes.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
> it states to (CHECK RUDDER PEDAL TILT BEFORE DRILLING IN ASSY
> WITH MASTER CYlINDERS) I've got great clearance and all looks good
> what are they asking for?
>
> Regards- Mike Comeaux
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to tell wire gauge? |
<< I have quite a bit of Tefzel aircraft wire that I obtained some time ago.
It
is of various gauges, and my question is, how do you tell what gauge each
wire
is? These do not have the gauge printed on them anywhere. Is there some
method
to tell? >>
Get out your calipers and refer to the following chart for M22759/16 wire
(first number set is wire stranding OD nominal, second set is insulation OD
range):
24 AWG = .025" (.043 -.047")
22 AWG = .031" (.050 -.054")
20 AWG = .040" (.058 -.062")
18 AWG = .050" (.069 -.073")
16 AWG = .056" (.077 -.081")
14 AWG = .070" (.091 -.095")
12 AWG = .089" (.111 -.117")
10 AWG = .108" (.136 -.142")
8 AWG = .165" (.196 -.202")
6 AWG = .207" (.247 -.253")
4 AWG = .261" (.308 -.316")
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | -6A Nose Wheel Installation |
Listers,
It is my understanding that the spacers on each side of the nose wheel
are intended to seat the bearing races but not rotate. When I loosen
the axle nut adequately to get about three rotations with a hard spin of
the nose wheel IAW Justice notes, the spacers rotate with the wheel.
It would seem to me that the axle also should not rotate with the wheel
but that the bearings should rotate on a fixed axle. Is the axle free
to rotate? There seems to be nothing to keep it from rotation as the
bearings rotate on its surface.
So, what is supposed to rotate with the wheel? Is the three rotations
with a hard spin adequate criteria for tightening the axle nut?
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-6117A Brake side plate |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I'm getting ready to drill brake cylinders to side plates and on
>drawing
>43a
>it states to (CHECK RUDDER PEDAL TILT BEFORE DRILLING IN ASSY
>WITH MASTER CYlINDERS) I've got great clearance and all looks good
>what are they asking for?
>
>Regards- Mike Comeaux
>RV6A-QB
>
>
>
When you drill the hole in the peddle that will mount the brake cylinder
it also sets the angle of the peddle (or tilt) relative to the floor and
your feet.
If you have them tilted to far aft, every time you go to push the rudder
peddle it is difficult to prevent also pushing on the brake peddle
(particularly if you are long legged and big feeted).
The easiest way to check for this is to have the rudder cables installed
and attached to the rudder and the rudder peddles (so you can adjust the
neutral distance of the peddles to fit your preference when you sit in
the seat; use something to simulate the seat cushions that you will use).
Now you can temporarily clamp the brake cyl. to the peddle and see if the
geometry works for you. Some builders find it worth while to put a thick
piece of hose on the bottom cross tube so that your foot hits this before
the brake peddle.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint (spray cans) |
Absolutely...Use Krylon and their clear coat that is called "crystal clear
acrylic coating" just be sure to get the mat finish clear coat..I did the
whole interior of mine with it, and it is impervious to scratches as long as
you put a couple of coats of clear coat...it is on my rudder pedals, canopy
frame, canopy deck, seat pans, seats, etc....
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)
Waiting on Finish Kit
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>
>
>I'm painting various weldments (flap lever, rudder pedals, etc), which I
>intend to be a different color than the rest of the interior of my airplane.
>I'm trying to avoid purchasing a quart of something expensive (Imron,
>whatever) for such a small job. I'm looking for a brand of canned spray paint
>which is extremely durable. I've tried a couple of brands, including
>rustoleum, and none pass the "thumbnail test" in which I use my thumbnail to
>scratch off "cured" paint.
>
>Any brand suggestions?
>
>KB
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Location of QB kits in Malaysia |
Malaysia! Where's Malaysia?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: -6A Nose Wheel Installation |
<< It is my understanding that the spacers on each side of the nose wheel
are intended to seat the bearing races but not rotate.>>
Not necessarily.
<>
No.
<< There seems to be nothing to keep it from rotation as the
bearings rotate on its surface.>>
The clamping force of the thru bolt.
<< So, what is supposed to rotate with the wheel? Is the three rotations
with a hard spin adequate criteria for tightening the axle nut? >>
IMO, no.
The axle needs to be held firmly, so it must be slightly (.008 -.012" would be
good guess) longer than the combined dimensions of the wheel, bearings, races
and spacers. We just kept kissing off the spacers evenly until we had the
clearance we needed with the axle thru bolt cinched down at full torque for
its size. The wheel should be free to move, but not sloppy. The spacers may
or may not rotate, but must not be bound up.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint (spray cans) |
A word of warning. I made the same search for durability for a spray can paint
and
ended up with epoxy also; to paint my lawn mower and trailer. The epoxy paint was
durable to abrasion but chaulked badly (very badly) from exposure to sunlight.
Some brands may differ. I got mine at Home Depot.
Joe Walker
Rebuilding RV6
Houston, Texas
John Fasching wrote:
>
> I do not recall a Brand name, but I have found Epoxy in spray cans that I
> used to paint the engine mount. It is "tough as nails" and not too
> expensive - around $3/can as I recall and very convenient to use. As to
> color selection, a wide range was available WHEN I found it; not always
> easy to do unless you happen to live where large
> hardware/lumber/home-depot-type stores are located.I doubt you'll find
> anything more durable than Expoxy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to tell wire gauge? |
Perhaps an easy way to identify the wire would be to take a small sample to Radio
Shack and compare to known wire gages. While you are there you can pick up misc.
stuff like shrink tubing or solder so the trip is not wasted. There are numerous
charts and devices to define wire gage but for probably less than half a dozen
wire sizes, it is much easier just to compare it to a known wire. Anyway, they
sell the charts and hole gages if that is what you want.
Good Luck
Joe Walker
Rebuilding RV6
Houston, Texas
MAlexan533(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers;
>
> I have quite a bit of tefzel aircraft wire that I obtained some time ago. It
> is of various gauges, and my question is, how do you tell what gauge each wire
> is? These do not have the gauge printed on them anywhere. Is there some method
> to tell?
> Von Alexander
> MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Don't pilot drill anything that is supposed to be drilled in assembly
with the fuselage until you have the fuselage.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
From: TERRYBENZER [mailto:TERRYBENZER(at)prodigy.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 1998 11:16 AM
To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: hs-810,814
Do you pilot drill at the 1 1/2" point in the
hs-810/814, just mark the
location, or not do anything right now and mark and
drill (3/16) when mating
to the fuselage? Same question for the vs. I assume
that you can get to
these locations to measure, mark, and drill when mating
to the fuselage.
Just finished cutting and polishing the 810/814 and
don't want to have to
redo them.
tia
Terry #80800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:High E.G.T. |
Harrellace(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
> If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
> RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken
I think most engine folks agree that the specific value of EGT
is not too meaningful. The exhaust gases are quite hot when
they flow by the exhaust valve and cool rapidly as they travel
down the exhaust. The number you read for EGT will depend on
how far down from the exhaust flange you mount your probes.
My instrument vendor specified 4 inches, but I saw a post here the
other day suggesting 1.5 inches - this would cause a higher EGT
reading (I would think the probes would wear out sooner).
I think the usefulness of EGT is twofold. First, to assist with
leaning, by adjusting the mixture relative to the EGT peak. Secondly,
to establish a 'baseline' EGT value for a given mixture/throttle
setting and to monitor for subsequent deviations that
might indicate a problem.
A couple of other thoughts:
You engine can produce more power at 2000 MSL than at higher
altitudes, so might expect EGT to be higher.
I think EGT decreases as the compression ratio increases. If your
engine is healthy (good valves/rings) the compression ratio should
be fixed at 8.5 to 1 (for the O-360)
Blake
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris East" <easty(at)tm.net.my> |
| Subject: | Re: Location of QB kits in Malaysia |
thanks for your helpful contribution
-----Original Message-----
From: Limaluk(at)aol.com <Limaluk(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, 13 September 1998 15:59
Subject: Re: RV-List: Location of QB kits in Malaysia
>
>Malaysia! Where's Malaysia?
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:High E.G.T. |
<< Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken >>
Please provide us with more information. Is this a new condition? Did/was
something changed? Was this a full rich EGT? What were the other cylinders?
How many hours on the engine? How in the engine running? Fuel
injected/Ellison/Carb? Are all four EGT probes located the same dist. from
the head?
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:High E.G.T. |
"High EGT" is a misnomer. ALL EGT temps are relative. They are NOT
absolute. EGT temps are affected by probe placement, ambient temperature,
altitude, humidity, mixture, compression ratio, gas composition, engine
timing, throttle position... the list goes on and on
Why measure EGT anyway. EGT is a way to set what you can control; mixture;
to get the best power or the best economy. At maximum relative temperature,
your engine is developing max efficiency. When you go just a little rich,
you get max power.
Lycoming says you can go 25 degrees lean of max temp for best economy
without damage but most go the other way 25 degrees rich of max temp feeling
that the extra gas provides cooling to prevent valve burning, etc.
An EGT temp is therefore a power indicator. The higher the STABILIZED temp
for any condition, the higher the power.
EGT temps drop off as you increase the altitude as you can NOT generate as
much power with less air. So you lean to bring the mixture back into the
proper ratio.
Too much air, temp drops. Too little air, temp drops. Right amount of air,
max temp.
UNFORTUNATELY, we can't control the air, so we control the other side of the
air/fuel mixture with the mixture control.
Unfortunately, due to all the different variables, you cannot compare your
temp readings with anyone else. The only thing you can do is look for the
max reading and make a mixture adjustment.
Max temperatures are always higher at lower altitudes as the oxygen level is
higher.
-----Original Message-----
From: Harrellace(at)aol.com <Harrellace(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List:High E.G.T.
>
>Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
>If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
>RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Di Meo <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Saga of the tail springs revisited |
Terry,
I saw your tail wheel spring at the RV forum. Do you have some simple drawing
we
could refer to? I'd like to do something like that on my "8" when I get to that
point.
Keep us posted on long term use.
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Baffling question |
I am installing the baffling for an O-360/fixed-pitch prop in my RV-4 with
the now-standardized "constant speed" cowl. The instructions for the front
baffle floors describe changing the bend angles for constant speed
installations. Question: does "constant speed" in this instance refer to
the constant speed (shorter) cowl, or are these changes necessary only when
using a constant-speed prop? In other words, do I need to make the bend
changes even though I am using a fixed-pitch prop?
Baffled,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 64ST getting closer to that first flight every day
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Helmets and other stuff |
>For a hard hat, I have an HGU-55, It is light, it works well, you can wear
>glasses under it.
I bought my helmet from Flight Suits, Ltd at OSH the year before I finished
Suzie Q, wanting it for flight testing. If I managed to tip the airplane
over, I wanted something besides my poor punkin head dragging along the turf
. I also wanted protection from an ejected/lost canopy and FIRE. As
previoulsy discussed (see the archives) they actually are not as protective
as an auto racing helmet but way better than nothing, fit in the cockpit
better and have the electronics installed. I liked the help FSL provided and
their service. I needed a bit more leather on the helmet to protect the
canopy better and it was just a matter of calling up Fred and having him
send me a small patch. Free, by the way.
Now, even after my flight testing, I fly with the helmet all the time. I got
really used to the protection it provides. Mine was a custom fit as I have
an odd-shapped head and could rave for a while how comfortable it is.
Helmets don't have a good reputation for comfort but this one truely is. It
is light and there are no "hot spots". Longest I've had it on was three +
hours. No problem. If you are considering one, consider the custom fit for a
few well-spent extra dollars. Unless you have a standard head (?). I have
the HGU-55 which fits very well under the canopy, two inches to spare. It
has the visor without the hardware and cover which means it doesn't stick up
so high. I didn't like the skull caps (cloth hat under the helmet) from FSL
and ordered one from Watkins Aviation. Much thicker and more comfortable.
>I have one fear in flying. FIRE! I don't always wear nomex in my RV, but I
>do in warbirds. Nomex flightsuits and gloves are really important and in
my >view are as critical as a hard hat.
I agree. I always wear my helmet and usually wear my Nomex flight suit. I'm
sure there are some folks that think I wear them just to look "cool", what
with Suzie Q's "military" paint scheme (primer). Far from it. (Well, maybe
not too far...) I had a chat with a pilot at OSH several years ago who had
hellish scars on his arms (and probably elsewhere) from an RV-4 incident
that involved an early landing and FIRE. He survived but has some nasty
scars to show for it. Started me thinking: the big-and-fast guys wear them
for a reason; do I have any good reasons NOT to wear them. Don't mind what
people think; I like 'em. I like, also, having my pens handy in the pen
pockets and my canopy breaking device (large knife; you DO have a canopy
breaking device, don't you?) on my person (in one of the leg pockets). Also
gives me somewhere to put my patches.
I also have a Nomex flight jacket. You do NOT want your cool looking Nylon
jacket on if there is a small FIRE anywhere around. And you need golves of
some kind. I wear deer skin rather than Nomex as they are more flexable and
comfortable. And less expensive. And the Blue Angels wear them. Gloves can
help you push/pull something hot out of the way, if needed. One of Rod
Machado's many recommendations for pilots, at least to have them handy.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Visor down, canopy down and locked.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Terra Nav/Comm/Tri-Nav C with GS for sale |
RV-listers,
.. I have just changed my mind about building an IFR RV-6A, and
thus have a good Terra Nav-Com for sale.
These are the newer digital units. The Nav and Tri-Nav C were bought
Feb 97, and made in TX (the warranty cards have not been sent in yet -
warranty starts at first flight for a homebuilt). It is the version with
the Localizer and Glide Slope. The comm is a little older, made in the
Terra Alberquerque factory (pre-Trimble). It is unused, having been
bought, and the tray wired, for a new Polish PW-5 sailplane ... the plane
arrived, and the owner found out how little room there was behind the
instrument panel ... the Terra comm didn't fit! A friend has just used it
to check out a hum in his RV6A ... he plugged it in his panel and checked
it out, it worked fine ... the hum was still there though - it proved that
it was part of his audio panel wiring.
The tray that I'm selling with the combo is the one I ordered with
the nav, I specified a standard dual, side-by-side tray, comm on left, nav
on right. This tray is new and untouched, I'll keep the wired tray that I
got with the comm.
I still like Terra avionics, and have a new Terra Transponder and an
older used Terra comm which I will use in my panel.
...the new price is about $3000, I am selling for $2500, and I'll
even wire the nav and the Tri-nav together with mil-spec teflon wire if you
want (I'm an aerospace electronic engineer, so I can solder well...:^).
... Gil (a VFR pilot, staying VFR) Alexander
mailto:gila(at)flash.net
Gil Alexander,
Los Angeles, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffling question |
Tom Craig-Stearman wrote:
do I need to make the bend
> changes even though I am using a fixed-pitch prop?
>
Tom,
I have an O-360 with constant-speed prop and I installed Van's
baffling. I have not
done a fixed-pitch installation, but I suspect you need to make the
bends based on the
following information. The original fixed-pitch cowl was used with a
4-in prop
extension, placing the forward-most portion of the cowl (that part of
the cowl
immediately behind the spinner) a few inches forward of where it would
be with the
constant-speed cowl. This resulted in a very slight needle-nose effect,
which I
believe was Van's intentional attempt to reduce drag. I think he later
determined
the drag reduction to be neglible, or at least not enough to justify
stocking two
different cowls. The current 2.5 extension inch results in the rear of
the spinner
being in the same location as it is for the Hartzell "compact-hub"
constant-speed
props, thus one cowl now fits all props.
The end-objective of making the bends is to have the baffling closely
match the
lower boundry of the cooling air inlets. For the relatively blunt-nosed
constant
speed cowl, the bends are required to get the baffling 'down' to the
inlet boundries
within the shorter distance allotted.
Regards,
Blake
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:High E.G.T. |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
>If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
>RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken
>
>
>
As already mentioned, absolute EGT is not important as long as it isn't
over the Mfg. limit (1600 deg F I think for your engine).
Much more important is the min to max range that your engine operates at.
You should typically be able to pull the mixture at least 1 inch (more
desirable would be 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inches) from full rich to peak EGT at
8500 ft.
This could cause an EGT spread of 250 deg or more.
If you cant pull the mixture very far (at upper altitudes, not at 2500
ft)
then you could have a carb. that is running to lean (even with mixture
full rich) for your engine.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -6A Nose Wheel Installation |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>It is my understanding that the spacers on each side of the nose wheel
>are intended to seat the bearing races but not rotate. When I loosen the
>axle nut adequately to get about three rotations with a hard spin of the
>nose wheel IAW Justice notes, the spacers rotate with the wheel.
>
>It would seem to me that the axle also should not rotate with the wheel
>but that the bearings should rotate on a fixed axle. Is the axle free to
>rotate? There seems to be nothing to keep it from rotation as the
>bearings rotate on its surface.
>
>So, what is supposed to rotate with the wheel? Is the three rotations
>with a hard spin adequate criteria for tightening the axle nut?
>
>Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
>
>
If you have spacers that just fit into the bearings with no long aluminum
spacer that goes in between, you are to just assemble every thing and
torque the axle nut to 7 ft. lbs.
This will preload the bearings the proper amount.
The wheel will not spin freely though because of the drag of the rubber
dust seals on the bearings.
FYI... These instructions are for the matco (now supplied) not the
cleaveland nose wheel.
BTW when switching to a different nose wheel which required a different
bearing, Tom Green spent time talking to engineers an Timkin bearing.
One thing we learned was that a bearing being operated without the proper
preload was bad, bad, bad.
When adjusting your wheel bearings they should be set up so that their is
some drag (it wont hurt the bearing a bit). So when adjusting the axle
nut, chose the next tighter cotter pin hole to make it just slightly
tight, rather than a hole that will leave it loose and free spinning.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Laser Electronic Ignition |
Van's catalog lists the Laser Ignition system and mentions that return of
magneto cores results in a $550 credit - but what is the "logbook entry"
that they mention?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying Previously Owned Kits |
Well for one dont buy anything unless you can have someone at that end
other than the seller see what yoou will be getting, even at that you are
buying something unknown. I bought an RV3 on the gear ready for the canopy
to be finished and a little work on the turtle deck that needed to be
redone, this was from a guy who is a QC on nuke plants and a fellow who
works on homebuilts and other aircraft on the side. What I got was a pile of
do do that is very far from being ready to fly and is going to need
extensive rework and a lot of sheet metal replaced to be safe to fly, it
never will be a show plane, just another homebuilt. So if you cant see it in
person you are taking a big chance.
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net>
Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 2:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Buying Previously Owned Kits
>
>Listers:
>
>
>What are the appropriate questions to ask of one who has an "unopened"
>empennage kit for sale?
>
>What questions should I direct to Vans?
>
>What arrangements are typically made when dealing with an unknown
>individual over the internet? I am a bit reluctant to send $$ to someone
>I don't know, and I haven't seen the goods. Likewise, I'm sure the
>individual on the other end would be reluctant to send anything to an
>absoulute stranger without the money in hand.
>
>Does ups take c.o.d.?
>
>Any advice is appreciated.
>
>thanks!
>
>martin shorman
>lawton, ia
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Tank sealer magic stuff |
Sorry to all who asked for info but I misplaced the sealer I had and
needed to find it.
I have used this to seal 'weeping' rivits in fuel tanks as well as
small oil leaks on non critical engine joints. It really works well.
It certainly beats pulling a fuel tank off the wing to seal from the
inside!!
La-Co Epoxy Tabs Type 'O'
La Co Industries
250 N Washtenaw Ave
Chicago, Ill. 60612
regards
Allen
N4AD - RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Galen Nickel" <galen(at)axonsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A demo flight |
Hey, I think we were there with you. My buddy and I were checking out the
RV6A. Are you the gentleman taking a demo ride who came with his wife?
Best wishes on your project. We're pretty convinced about building the 6A.
-Galen
-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvain Duford <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 1:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A demo flight
Yesterday I drove down to North-Plains and took the $30,000 free ride in
N58VA.
To resume in one word, WOW!
This is the closest thing I've flown to the old Tutor jet trainer in the
Canadian Forces.
I was already pretty well decided on the RV-8, but now I'm hooked!
My thanks to Bill Benedict for the hospitality down at Van's.
Any RV-8 builders from the Seattle area on this list? I'm in Bellevue, and
will be starting construction in October. I'll be posting my progress on my
personal web site below.
Sylvain Duford
sylvain(at)duford.com
http://www.duford.com
+
+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pressure/lines |
>
>What kind of pressure are experienced in the lines from the master to
>wheel cylinders?
>
>More than 125 PSI?
>
Finn,
I have not measured the pressures but I can easily push 250 lbs with one
foot. If you then multiply this by the mechanical advantage you have due to
the foot plate hinge placements you very quickly get to a bigger number
than 125 psi. I would think you want a 2000 psi hose at a minimum.
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Buckwalter <Sales(at)AvioniKits.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to tell wire gauge? |
Most Tefzel is marked with the Mil-Spec number 22759/16, followed by the
wire gauge. So a length of 20 gauge would say M22759/16-20.
David Buckwalter
Avionics Systems
<http://www.avionikits.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:High E.G.T. |
Still don't believe that your max temp can be verified as Probe location
affects your read out. In fact if you want to get longer life from you
probes, mount then farther from the exhaust flange. The cooling or lack of
cooling over the headers and the pipe material also effect the temperature
sent by the probe.
The two temps that you should be concerned about are the head temps and the
oil temps. These are more absolute while the EGT is only relative.
Lycoming says that exhaust temperatures generally run from 1200 to 1600
degrees. They also say there an be as much as a 200 degree difference
between cylinders of a carburated engine. Lycoming also says, "Again we
repeat that maximum leaning (peak EGT) does not damage an engine at the
manufacturers recommended cruise power."
-----Original Message-----
From: SCOTT R MCDANIELS <smcdaniels(at)Juno.com>
Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:High E.G.T.
>
>
>>
>>Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
>>If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
>>RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken
>>
>>
>>
>As already mentioned, absolute EGT is not important as long as it isn't
>over the Mfg. limit (1600 deg F I think for your engine).
>Much more important is the min to max range that your engine operates at.
>You should typically be able to pull the mixture at least 1 inch (more
>desirable would be 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inches) from full rich to peak EGT at
>8500 ft.
>This could cause an EGT spread of 250 deg or more.
>If you cant pull the mixture very far (at upper altitudes, not at 2500
>ft)
>then you could have a carb. that is running to lean (even with mixture
>full rich) for your engine.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>These opinions and ideas are my own
>and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
>of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-6117A Brake side plate |
This may only involve semantics, but the pedals should not be parallel.
If the vertical components of the pedals are parallel, then one pedal
will be a couple of inches closer to the pilot than the other pedal.
The pedals should form a "V" so the horizontal parts of the pedals (the
foot rests) lie in a straight line. This also means that the angle of
the brake pedals will be different on each pedal (but will be equal in
relationship to each other!). A close look at the pedal setup will
clarify this statement.
Sam Buchanan (nearly ready for the finish kit)
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> You want the pedals to be in the same plane (duh), I mean, where the hole
> location is will determine if the pedals will be parallel to one another.
> Also, if the pedals tilt back too far, it could be uncomfortable to use the
> rudder without activating the brakes.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
> > it states to (CHECK RUDDER PEDAL TILT BEFORE DRILLING IN ASSY
> > WITH MASTER CYlINDERS) I've got great clearance and all looks good
> > what are they asking for?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Terra Nav/Comm/Tri-Nav C sold |
It's sold! Gil (staying VFR) Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
| Subject: | Brake pedal Location |
Thanks for all the response got them nailed down now on to controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-6117A Brake side plate |
The original post said rudder pedals, but intended brake pedals. These do
make sense to make parallel.
Alex Peterson
>
> This may only involve semantics, but the pedals should not be parallel.
> Sam Buchanan (nearly ready for the finish kit)
> Alex Peterson wrote:
> >
> >
> > You want the pedals to be in the same plane (duh), I mean, where the
hole
> > location is will determine if the pedals will be parallel to one
another.
> > Also, if the pedals tilt back too far, it could be uncomfortable to use
the
> > rudder without activating the brakes.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN 6A
> >
> > > it states to (CHECK RUDDER PEDAL TILT BEFORE DRILLING IN ASSY
> > > WITH MASTER CYlINDERS) I've got great clearance and all looks good
> > > what are they asking for?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A demo flight |
Yes that was me. They were doing some shooting for a new video. I guess my
"Van's grin" and thumbs up might be immortalized! :)
Good luck with the 6A!
Sylvain
-----Original Message-----
From: Galen Nickel <galen(at)axonsys.com>
Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8A demo flight
>
>Hey, I think we were there with you. My buddy and I were checking out the
>RV6A. Are you the gentleman taking a demo ride who came with his wife?
>Best wishes on your project. We're pretty convinced about building the 6A.
>
>-Galen
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sylvain Duford <sylvain(at)duford.com>
>To: RV-List
>Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 1:10 PM
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8A demo flight
>
>
>
>Yesterday I drove down to North-Plains and took the $30,000 free ride in
>N58VA.
>To resume in one word, WOW!
>
>This is the closest thing I've flown to the old Tutor jet trainer in the
>Canadian Forces.
>
>I was already pretty well decided on the RV-8, but now I'm hooked!
>
>My thanks to Bill Benedict for the hospitality down at Van's.
>
>Any RV-8 builders from the Seattle area on this list? I'm in Bellevue, and
>will be starting construction in October. I'll be posting my progress on my
>personal web site below.
>
>
>Sylvain Duford
>sylvain(at)duford.com
>http://www.duford.com
>
>
>
>
>
>+
>+
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Another RV-6 Takes to the skies |
Hello All,
RV-6 N36VR has finally flown after 19 months of work. This was my third
project but I was no less anxious about the first flight. Performance
numbers - haven't got a clue other than it climbed like a homesick angle
and stalls clean at 50mph. It flew great, a little left wing heavy but man
what a thrill! This flight made every aggravating minute worth it, and I'm
still married so that's a big plus.
Good Luck to all the builders
Marcus, now a flier!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pressure/lines |
Leo Davies wrote:
> >What kind of pressure are experienced in the lines from the master to
> >wheel cylinders?
> I have not measured the pressures but I can easily push 250 lbs with one
> foot. If you then multiply this by the mechanical advantage you have due to
> the foot plate hinge placements you very quickly get to a bigger number
> than 125 psi. I would think you want a 2000 psi hose at a minimum.
Thanks Leo. So, what kind of hose does Vans deliver with the current
kits? I thought I saw some "plastic" hose on an RV-4.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kamy Cheng <kamy(at)mech.uwa.edu.au> |
Dear All,
We are experiencing a number of problems interpreting drawing #26 for the
construction of the F-605 bulkhead. Firstly, the drawing shows that the
top of the F-605A components should lie flat against a straight surface
(such as the F-605F) but when laid straight in such a manner, the two
halves of the F-605A do not butt cleanly. This would not be a problem
except that it changes the interaction between the bottom flange of the
F-605A's and the edge of the 605-B bar.
With the top of the F605A lying horizontal against a straight surface, the
605-B bar intersects the join of the A's at the bottom centre but at the
outer edges there is a gap of far greater than 1/8" which is indicated on
the plan.
However, With the A's cleanly butted against each other, there is no
longer a straight top edge but the 605-B bar fits with the bottom edge of
the A's more cleanly leaving a more appropriate gap. Which effect is more
important, the horizontal top surface of the 605A's, or the similar
curvature of the bottom of the F-605A and F-605B keeping in mind the
floor ribs and other mating parts?
Apart from this, the F-605A's (both left and right) came from the factory
with 2 predrilled holes in each - one at the centre and one at the outer
edge. These holes look like they were used for alignment while pre-bending
but coincidentally are at 2 1/2" up from the bottom edge as are the
markings on drawing #26 for the elevator trim cable. However, the holes
are only 3/4" from the centre line of the bulkhead whereas the trim holes
should be 1 1/2" from the centreline. This interferes with the edge of the
splice plate and with a diameter of 5/8", probably with the holes for
drilling the splice plate to the A's as well. Should they be there? Are
they useful?
Comments will be most appreciated.
Kamy Cheng
University of Western Australia - RV 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-6 Takes to the skies |
>
>
>Hello All,
> RV-6 N36VR has finally flown after 19 months of work. This was my third
>project but I was no less anxious about the first flight.
***Great going! What a thrill it must be! You obviously know what
your doing...19 months?? Took me half that time to figure out how to open
the crate and inventory...... ;^)
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 finishing 1M details
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Hello, Kamy,
With respect to this part of your question:
" the holes are only " from the centre line of the bulkhead whereas the
trim holes should be 1 " from the centreline. This interferes with the
edge of the splice plate and with a diameter of 5/8", probably with the
holes for drilling the splice plate to the A's as well. Should they be
there? Are they useful? "
... I can say that I covered the small holes with the splice plate. I
marked them well so I would not drill a rivet hole in the vicinity of a
pre-existing hole. I made the 5/8 hole in the slice plate and bulkhead
as indicated on the plans. Obviously I did not have correct edge
distance for the big 5/8 hole in the splice plate, but that was not a
problem for the plate, as it is still adequate for its purpose of tying
the two halves of the bulkhead together.
I am at work and cannot recall how I worked around the other questions
that you posed. I think that I accepted a greater than 1/8 gap at the
top of the bulkhead, but without looking at my work at home I cannot be
sure.
You pose many good questions here and I hope that you have a good
response from the list.
Keep working.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: Kamy Cheng [mailto:kamy(at)mech.uwa.edu.au]
Sent: Monday, September 14, 1998 7:27 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject:
Dear All,
We are experiencing a number of problems interpreting
drawing #26 for the
construction of the F-605 bulkhead. Firstly, the drawing
shows that the
top of the F-605A components should lie flat against a
straight surface
(such as the F-605F) but when laid straight in such a
manner, the two
halves of the F-605A do not butt cleanly. This would not
be a problem
except that it changes the interaction between the
bottom flange of the
F-605A's and the edge of the 605-B bar.
straight surface, the
605-B bar intersects the join of the A's at the bottom
centre but at the
outer edges there is a gap of far greater than 1/8"
which is indicated on
the plan.
However, With the A's cleanly butted against each other,
there is no
longer a straight top edge but the 605-B bar fits with
the bottom edge of
the A's more cleanly leaving a more appropriate gap.
Which effect is more
important, the horizontal top surface of the 605A's, or
the similar
curvature of the bottom of the F-605A and F-605B keeping
in mind the
floor ribs and other mating parts?
Apart from this, the F-605A's (both left and right) came
from the factory
one at the outer
edge. These holes look like they were used for alignment
while pre-bending
but coincidentally are at 2 1/2" up from the bottom edge
as are the
markings on drawing #26 for the elevator trim cable.
However, the holes
are only 3/4" from the centre line of the bulkhead
whereas the trim holes
should be 1 1/2" from the centreline. This interferes
with the edge of the
splice plate and with a diameter of 5/8", probably with
the holes for
drilling the splice plate to the A's as well. Should
they be there? Are
they useful?
Comments will be most appreciated.
Kamy Cheng
University of Western Australia - RV 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-6 Takes to the skies |
In a message dated 9/14/98 12:15:53 Central Daylight Time, mcooper(at)cnetech.com
writes:
<< RV-6 N36VR has finally flown after 19 months of work. >>
Congrats. on getting your airplane flying. Maybe someday---------.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator bracket: 2024-T4 vs 6061-T6 |
>
>> There's an additional issue wiht respect to alum vs. steel. Alum
>> has a service life at any stress level; steel when loaded below
>> some percentage of yield is essentially infinite. We've see really
>> nice, heavy machined alluminum brackets crack after some years
>> in service.
>And I've seen some real nice RV's that weigh as much empty as a lot of
>other RV's with a pilot and some baggage aboard. :-)
>I think it is only fare to also say that a lot of factors (engine, prop,
>or accessories having excess vibration because of imbalance etc. or an
>improperly tensioned belt) can come into play and be a cause of bracket
>failures. Just designing stronger (usually also heavier) parts to
>correct other problems is not always the best preventative measure.
Unless you have overwhelming experience to the support the beef-up.
Alternator attach hardware failure is VERY common on a number of
certified aircraft using 3/16" steel . . . . this is why
the stock Lycoming bracket for boss mount alternators is 1/4"
material. At one time the bracket was 3/16" and breaking much
too often. The delta-weight between the current Lyc bracket and
any aluminum bracket beefy enough to stay put is a few ounces.
B&C has sold over a thousand of these brackets with his L-40
and L-60 alternators for about 8 years. Rate of return for
alternator -or- bracket failure is zero . . .
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: #$%&^@! Relay Orientation |
<3.0.1.16.19980907225529.0c07bbd8(at)dtc.net>
>Bob,
>As I mentioned in my post I tend to agree with you.
>The article that the original poster was referring to though came as a
>result of the manufacturer of the solenoids recommending that in a
>vibration environment that they be installed so that the plunger moved in
>a vertical direction. Not because of concern for activation under G
>loads but because of wear that can take place. They claim that the
>plunger has enough weight that vibration can cause wear on one side which
>can eventually cause the solenoid to hang up.
>Though I have never had one fail that I could attribute to this being the
>cause.
Interesting. Do you know which manufacturer? I'd like to look into
this further. I guess I can see a mechanism where the plunger
wears the side of the bore (plastic liner) and develops a
ridge that tends to prevent the solenoid from engaging . . . not
an issue for battery contactors because they are already engaged
and stay engaged during the most environmental stress. Starter,
ground power and crossfeed contactors might suffer this effect.
I'd like to track down the source of this information. Thanks
for the clarification.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Helmets and other stuff |
mikel(at)dimensional.com wrote:
>
>
> >For a hard hat, I have an HGU-55, It is light, it works well, you can wear
> >glasses under it.
>
> I bought my helmet from Flight Suits, Ltd at OSH the year before I finished
> Suzie Q, wanting it for flight testing. If I managed to tip the airplane
> over, I wanted something besides my poor punkin head dragging along the turf
> . I also wanted protection from an ejected/lost canopy and FIRE. As
> previoulsy discussed (see the archives) they actually are not as protective
> as an auto racing helmet but way better than nothing, fit in the cockpit
> better and have the electronics installed. I liked the help FSL provided and
> their service. I needed a bit more leather on the helmet to protect the
> canopy better and it was just a matter of calling up Fred and having him
> send me a small patch. Free, by the way.
>
Michael
How much does a helmet cost with all the nessesary goodies?
Craig Hiers
RV4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | DAR's New York State? |
I am asking this question on behalf of a friend who is about ready to take
his RV6A to the airport. The FAA gave him the name of a DAR based out of Long
Island tht came with a $500 fee. The NY FAA due to manpower limitations
doesn't do homebuilt inspections (so he was told) The plane will be based out
of the Warwick/Middletown, NY area. Does anyone know whether there are other
DAR's closer to this section of the state? (45 miles NW of New York City)
Where could I obtain a list of all the registered DAR's in the state of NY?
Has anyone had some good experiences with a particular NY DAR? Any of the NY
DAR's familiar with the RV6A's?
This RV6A is well built. He is not concerned about a picky inspector. A
lower fee would be nice. Apparently the conversation with the NY FAA was so
rewarding and fulfilling that he really doesn't want to speak with them again
- ever!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | DAR's New York State? |
I am asking this question on behalf of a friend who is about ready to take
his RV6A to the airport. The FAA gave him the name of a DAR based out of Long
Island tht came with a $500 fee. The NY FAA due to manpower limitations
doesn't do homebuilt inspections (so he was told) The plane will be based out
of the Warwick/Middletown, NY area. Does anyone know whether there are other
DAR's closer to this section of the state? (45 miles NW of New York City)
Where could I obtain a list of all the registered DAR's in the state of NY?
Has anyone had some good experiences with a particular NY DAR? Any of the NY
DAR's familiar with the RV6A's?
This RV6A is well built. He is not concerned about a picky inspector. A
lower fee would be nice. Apparently the conversation with the NY FAA was so
rewarding and fulfilling that he really doesn't want to speak with them again
- ever!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Add-on to Avery C-frame dimpling tool - to improve area around |
dimple
After completing my right elevator, I noticed that the area around the
spar and rib (not stiffener) dimples seemed to be depressed slightly,
area of depression/slope being about size of a dime (or less). The area
around finished stiffener rivets was perfect, probably because the back
riveting pounded out that slight depression against the back riveting
plate.
If I remember correctly, I couldn't use the pneumatic squeezer to dimple
the spar area because the "leading edge skins", not yet being curled,
didn't allow access with my squeezer yokes - so I used Avery's big blue
C-frame dimpling tool.
To prevent that cosmetic problem on my left elevator, I made a bar 1"
wide by 2.5" long, by 1/4 inch thick with a hole in center 1/2 inch in
diameter, to match the male dimple die. I set this bar over the male
dimple die, to support the skin in the area immediately around the male
dimple die. I tested the gizmo on my stiffener rivet holes Saturday and
they all came out perfect. I created this gizmo to use when I dimple
the spar and rib holes, so the area around finished rivets will be as
good as the area around stiffener rivets.
Comment about making the accessory: I glued 3 tongue depressors
together, then cut to length, then used a piece of .025 aluminum scrap
as top cap for "metal-to-metal solidness". I spent (wasted) maybe 45
minutes drilling the hole in the wood, stepping up from #41 to 3/8 drill
bits, then an old "almost 1/2" grinder bit to open the hole to 1/2".
Then I remembered my Unibit and drilled the 1/2" hole in the aluminum in
about 10 seconds. Can I have that 45 minutes back??? (duh!) Another
"duh": I dinged one hole when the aluminum strip came off of the male
die without my noticing - whacked the steel rod and, presto, nice 1/2
inch crease that I had to tap out (and my "repair" is going to show
slightly after painting, I think).
For Bob Avery: Maybe you could fabricate such an accessory (solid steel
or aluminum, so it won't bounce or be drug out of position) to include
with the C-frame tool.
David Carter, RV-6, Left Elevator, Nederland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
Unfortunately I went through the exact same thing one year ago with my
RV-6A. The Farmingdale MIDO refuses to inspect homebuilts. I called EAA
and they said that there was nothing that they could do except log a
complaint against this MIDO. Your friend has two choices. First, he can
pay the $500 and get the inspection done quickly or he can try to fight it.
If he wants to fight, be prepared for a very long delay in getting airborne.
The MIDO's claim that they don't have the manpower is total BS. My RV-6A is
located 25 minutes from their office and they still refused to inspect it.
Rumor has it that the field inspectors are willing to perform this service,
but one or two of the higher-ups at the MIDO will not allow it.
I believe the inspector from Long Island that you are referring to is
Charlie Terry. He performed my inspection and I had no problems with him.
He is a real nice guy to work with and he will deal with the MIDO. He also
pushes the paperwork through for you limited repairman certificate. I don't
think your friend will have any problems with Charlie.
After going through this last year, I believe that if you play by
Farmingdale's rules, you will be just fine. I'm not one who will easily
back down from a fight, but I was looking at a long down time to try to
prove my point and get the MIDO to do their job. During that time, my
warranties on the engine, prop and avionics would have been expiring. It
just wasn't worth it.
Be prepared for some strange actions by the MIDO even if you use Charlie
Terry. Here's some highlights of my experience.
1) The MIDO does not like to issue limited repairman certificates. My
paperwork was lost three times and it took a total of eight months from the
end of my test period to get the certificate. There is one Cozy builder on
Long Island that the MIDO initially refused to issue a repairman certificate
to. The builder eventually won, after almost a year.
2) They will not allow you to land at any other airport during your test
period or allow flight into Class B or C airspace.
3) The MIDO initially did not want to allow IFR ops with the airplane after
the test period. They said that the pilot must be IFR certified. I not
only have my IFR ticket, but am also a CFII. Regardless, my pilot
certificates should have no relevance on the aircraft's airworthiness.
After agreeing that my RV could be operated IFR, they wanted to allow IFR
day only along with VFR day/night. Charlie took care of this and the plane
is IFR day/night certified.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you need any additional information.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
Generally the FAA will come out... But there is a very long wait; years
even. I helped a friend trailer a VariEze 150 miles to the FAA parking lot
for a pre-flight inspection. The FAA man was more interested in the width
of the N number than inspecting the airplane. Even 20 years ago, the
inspector who could not "see" the word "experimental" emblazoned across the
in side of the canopy, was upset that the name plate of the O-200 wasn't
stamped with the "new" timing specs at that time. Of course, since foam and
epoxy were new, he didn't know what to look for.
BTW, the $500 includes liability insurance for the DAR which is expensive.
My DAR quit because of the expense of insurance plus having to pay for the
annual FAA update course.
The FAA doesn't even insure their employees. That is another reason after
being short handed, that the FAA wants you to use a DAR. It takes the
liability monkey off the FAA's back to the private Citizen DAR. Then if
something goes is wrong or goes wrong, it isn't the FAA's fault and they
can fine the DAR and make some money to support themselves and put another
nail in the coffin of the up-start homebuilding community and general
aviation as well.
-----Original Message-----
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com <RV4Brown(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 12:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: DAR's New York State?
>
> I am asking this question on behalf of a friend who is about ready to
take
>his RV6A to the airport. The FAA gave him the name of a DAR based out of
Long
>Island tht came with a $500 fee. The NY FAA due to manpower limitations
>doesn't do homebuilt inspections (so he was told) The plane will be based
out
>of the Warwick/Middletown, NY area. Does anyone know whether there are
other
>DAR's closer to this section of the state? (45 miles NW of New York City)
>Where could I obtain a list of all the registered DAR's in the state of NY?
>Has anyone had some good experiences with a particular NY DAR? Any of the
NY
>DAR's familiar with the RV6A's?
> This RV6A is well built. He is not concerned about a picky inspector.
A
>lower fee would be nice. Apparently the conversation with the NY FAA was so
>rewarding and fulfilling that he really doesn't want to speak with them
again
>- ever!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
There is a fellow in western CT (Danbury area) which is not very far from
Warwick. He inspected my SIX and 3 or 4 others in the area, he is a good fair
fellow and it will cost around $300. I recommend him highly, he knows RV,s
quite well..
Andy Zitnay
Newtown, CT
203-270-1431
Tell him I sent you;
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
On advice from members of the local EAA chapter, one of the first things I
did was to contact a local DAR. I am convinced that his fee will be money
well spent.
The local DAR (Wayne Dunham of Pittsfield, IL) turns out to be a retired
FAA inspector who knows everyone at the Illinois FISDO, has years of
experience inspecting aircraft including homebuilts, and has been very
helpful in explaining the process. It does feel like a gouge to pay
somebody to do a job that our taxes supposedly have already paid for, but
that seems to be the way the system is working now, and apparently they are
planning on phasing out free inspections altogether in the near future.
Mr. Dunham seems to be genuinely interested in my project, and eager to
help get more homebuilt aircraft into the air. He has offered useful
advice, and indicated that his fee would include looking over my project
well in advance of the required inspection in order to head off problems
before the last minute. I expect to have him over to look at my wings
before I close them, and my engine installation before I try to start it.
It is my impression that this is the kind of attitude we can expect from a
DAR. After all, they're REALLY working for us -- we're paying them.
The way I'm trying to look at it is: If I had to deal with the legal
system, sure, I could represent myself, but rather than take a chance of
getting royally screwed, I'd fork out the fees to have an attorney up there
who's known the judge for 30 years and plays golf with him. Besides, since
I'm paying, I expect to get some decent advice, which I could probably use.
I look at my DAR as my man inside the system.
SNIP
>The FAA gave him the name of a DAR based out of Long
>Island tht came with a $500 fee. The NY FAA due to manpower limitations
>doesn't do homebuilt inspections (so he was told) The plane will be based out
>of the Warwick/Middletown, NY area.
Don Hyde
Quincy, IL
6A, Building! VS done,
Working on rudder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
>Does anyone know whether there are other
>DAR's closer to this section of the state? (45 miles NW of New York City)
Don't know of any in NY, but I highly recommend the DAR who inspected my
-6A. His name is Ed Hasch, lives near Nashville, TN., built and flew a -6
for a few years until he sold it last year, so he is VERY familiar with
RV's. He travels extensively with American Airlines, so he may be able to
drop in for an inspection. I'm sure he would be glad to do it if he's going
to be in your area.
Try e-mailing him at: hasch(at)earthlink.net
It may take a few days for him to respond since he is on the road Monday -
Thursday every week.
Regards,
Dave Hudgins
Nashville -6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pressure/lines |
There is some plastic hose that goes between the cylinders...I am replacing
mine with braided hose for this reason exactly. It is pretty hot here and
it can get chilly as well, so with the heating/cooling on the plastic, I
don't want to take any chances with the plastic stuff.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on Finish Kit
>
>Leo Davies wrote:
>
>> >What kind of pressure are experienced in the lines from the master to
>> >wheel cylinders?
>
>> I have not measured the pressures but I can easily push 250 lbs with one
>> foot. If you then multiply this by the mechanical advantage you have due to
>> the foot plate hinge placements you very quickly get to a bigger number
>> than 125 psi. I would think you want a 2000 psi hose at a minimum.
>
>Thanks Leo. So, what kind of hose does Vans deliver with the current
>kits? I thought I saw some "plastic" hose on an RV-4.
>
>Finn
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Helmets and other stuff |
>How much does a helmet cost with all the nessesary goodies?
You would ask that nasty question. My HGU-33 Kevlar helmet setup for the
TPL "custom fit" liner (ordered WITHOUT the liner), with earspeakers (but
WITHOUT the earcups), noise-canceling dynamic mic, and standard civilian
two-plug (mic + phones) cable came to about $750. The fit-kit from Oregon
Aero, including the helmet liner, earcups for the earspeakers, and mic-muff
(improves noise canceling), was another $250.
So the final "flying" price was right close to $1000. That is why I said
you really have to compare it to a good ANR headset (read "Bose").
Frankly, my helmet >WITH the Oregon Aero kit< is as quiet as most ANR
headsets I have used (although the Bose ANR headset is a little better).
The other features, e.g. head protection, eye protection, etc., make it the
clear winner over even a Bose headset as far as I am concerned.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws |
Ordered K1100-06 countersunk platenuts and AN505-6 flush head screws
from Van's - arrived today - without screws.
Note on invoice says they don't stock AN505-6 flush head screws.
Avery doesn't stock so called Wicks -they are shipping MS 35190-238 by
1/2 inch long.
I would appreciate someone summarizing for me what I need to do to
prepare the screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate and E-616 cover
plate:
I think I should dimple the 7 screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate
and in the 616 cover plate. The round head screws I have on hand and -4
rivets seem to fit about the same in these holes, so I think I could use
the 1/8" rivet hole dimple dies. A previous post by Robert "Bob" Di Meo
said there were specific dimple dies for these screws, that provided
better fit - anyone know nomenclature and source?
Is there a need to "machine countersink" either the cover plate (seems
kind of thin for that) - or touch up either the dimple in E-615
reinforceing plate (with deburring tool or countersink bit)?
David Carter, RV-6 left elevator, Nederland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
The plans seem kind of vague when it comes to how the fuel selecter is
mounted to the plate. Am I supposed to use long bolts through the plate to
the holes on the selecter? Or are the holes on the selecter supposed to
mount to the spar somehow?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Weller <midibu(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:High E.G.T. |
>
>Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
>If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
>RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken
>
Yes,
Not in an RV, but in Mooneys with the same engine.
I'm going to guess that this was with high power. And by that I mean about
75% or 25" and 2500 rpm. I don't know where you live, but in the summer
time, the engine is at its limits.
If you don't have problems with cooler weather there is nothing to do but
put more air over the engine (i.e. fly faster, reduce power, or both).
I'm sorry that this isn't much help, but I do know it from flying a variety
of Mooneys.
Mike Weller
RV-8 80187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pressure/lines |
>Thanks Leo. So, what kind of hose does Vans deliver with the current
>kits? I thought I saw some "plastic" hose on an RV-4.
>
>Finn
Finn,
I am not sure about "current" but my kit came with aluminum tube for this
purpose. There are plastic lines provided for the low pressure side
(resevoir to master). I chose to replace the aluminum lines with aeroquip
hose for the segment from the bulkhead fitting on the fuselage down the
gear leg to the brake.
Leo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying Previously Owned Kits |
If there is a lister in the Minooka, IL area, please contact me off list
at the return address, or
mshorman@younglove-const.com
Thanks for all the advice.
martin shorman
lawton, ia
(hot on the trail of the elusive empennage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws |
David, Van's does stock AN507-6's in either SS or clad. I haven't done
mine yet but I think the E-615 is thick enough to countersink and I will
dimple the E-616. Avery and Cleveland have dimple dies for the #6 flush
screws. Good luck. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage complete, QB due in Nov.,
Chandler, AZ
Subject: RV-List: Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws
>
>Ordered K1100-06 countersunk platenuts and AN505-6 flush head screws
>from Van's - arrived today - without screws.
>
>Note on invoice says they don't stock AN505-6 flush head screws.
>
>Avery doesn't stock so called Wicks -they are shipping MS 35190-238 by
>1/2 inch long.
>I would appreciate someone summarizing for me what I need to do to
>prepare the screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate and E-616 cover
>plate:
> I think I should dimple the 7 screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate
>and in the 616 cover plate. The round head screws I have on hand and -4
>rivets seem to fit about the same in these holes, so I think I could use
>the 1/8" rivet hole dimple dies. A previous post by Robert "Bob" Di Meo
>said there were specific dimple dies for these screws, that provided
>better fit - anyone know nomenclature and source?
>
>Is there a need to "machine countersink" either the cover plate (seems
>kind of thin for that) - or touch up either the dimple in E-615
>reinforceing plate (with deburring tool or countersink bit)?
>
>David Carter, RV-6 left elevator, Nederland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry S. (Hank) Eilts" <eilts(at)ti.com> |
>Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
>If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
>RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken
I had an exhaust valve stick open on a mooney once, and the exhaust
gas temp went out of sight high on one cylinder. The engine also ran poorly, so
if this
is the problem with yours, you should have other indications.
Hank Eilts
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pressure/lines |
>Leo Davies wrote:
>
>> >What kind of pressure are experienced in the lines from the master to
>> >wheel cylinders?
>
Leo,
I've done some work with brake systems and actual measured working pressures
are typically 200 to 300 PSI with hard braking in the 400 to 600 PSI range.
Dan Morris
RV6 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Main Gear Tires |
In the not too distant future I will be faced with the prospect of replacing
the OEM 5.00-5, 6 ply tires currently on my 6A. Apparently I will have the
following choices:
McCreary Aero Trainer @ $34/ea
McCreary Air Trac @ $38/ea
McCreary Air Hawk @ $46/ea
McCreary Super Hawk @ $56/ea
Michelin Condor @ $60/ea
Michelin Aviator @ $69/ea
Goodyear Flight Special 2 @ $66/ea
Goodyear Flight Custom 2 @ $91/ea
Van's (unspecified brand) @ $47/ea
In my normal mode, I would throw out the high and the low first. Has anyone
got good or bad things to say in reference to the balance of choices, as this
is yet another of those areas in which I have zip knowledge. I've always
liked the Michelins that I put on my Jeep, so I will probably, by default, go
with the Aviators. That is, unless there are some strong opinions on the list
to the contrary. What say you?
Thanks in advance,
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws |
<< Ordered K1100-06 countersunk platenuts and AN505-6 flush head screws
from Van's - arrived today - without screws.
Note on invoice says they don't stock AN505-6 flush head screws.
Avery doesn't stock so called Wicks -they are shipping MS 35190-238 by
1/2 inch long.
I would appreciate someone summarizing for me what I need to do to
prepare the screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate and E-616 cover
plate: >>
Dave-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
>
> I am asking this question on behalf of a friend who is about ready to
take
>his RV6A to the airport. The FAA gave him the name of a DAR based out of
Long
>Island tht came with a $500 fee. The NY FAA due to manpower limitations
>doesn't do homebuilt inspections (so he was told) The plane will be based
out
>of the Warwick/Middletown, NY area. Does anyone know whether there are
other
>DAR's closer to this section of the state? (45 miles NW of New York City)
>Where could I obtain a list of all the registered DAR's in the state of NY?
>Has anyone had some good experiences with a particular NY DAR? Any of the
NY
>DAR's familiar with the RV6A's?
I am presuming that you called the Teterboro MIDO, which is actually short
handed due to illness in the office. I use them for many STC related
activities. They have provided good service over the years, but recently
with the boom in Genav business industry as well as the FAA is stretched.
We are increasingly having to use DAR's for STC inspections, flight test and
related activities.
There is an advisory circular that list all of the DAR's. It is AC 183-35B,
and should be available online from the FAA homepage www.faa.gov
BTW I gave them about 6 months warning to schedule and they came out. The
office mamager there actually doesn't think that we should have to pay DAR's
but Washington thinks otherwise.
Good luck
Dan Morris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Main Gear Tires |
Gary, I've seen the results of some RV-er's going to the more expensive type
tires. Generally they have a wider tread profile so you would be wise to
check the clearance from your wheel pants (unless you have the newer
optional pressure recovery type) because they might a nice hole rubbed right
through them! Van's used to stock Michleon Condors and also McCreary Air
Tracs at one time and as far as I know they fit fine.
Les Williams/RV-6A/Tacoma WA
>
>In the not too distant future I will be faced with the prospect of
replacing
>the OEM 5.00-5, 6 ply tires currently on my 6A. Apparently I will have the
>following choices:
>
>McCreary Aero Trainer @ $34/ea
>McCreary Air Trac @ $38/ea
>McCreary Air Hawk @ $46/ea
>McCreary Super Hawk @ $56/ea
>Michelin Condor @ $60/ea
>Michelin Aviator @ $69/ea
>Goodyear Flight Special 2 @ $66/ea
>Goodyear Flight Custom 2 @ $91/ea
>Van's (unspecified brand) @ $47/ea
>
>In my normal mode, I would throw out the high and the low first. Has
anyone
>got good or bad things to say in reference to the balance of choices, as
this
>is yet another of those areas in which I have zip knowledge. I've always
>liked the Michelins that I put on my Jeep, so I will probably, by default,
go
>with the Aviators. That is, unless there are some strong opinions on the
list
>to the contrary. What say you?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>-GV
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pressure/lines |
The -4 and -6 kits are supplied with Aeroquip 303 flexible brake lines which
the plans show to connect to the master cylinders. Then rigid aluminum
tubing is connected to the lines and routed to the wheel cylinders, except
if you have the optional dual brake kit on the -6. These come supplied with
high pressure tube (nylo-seal or equivalent) for the pressure lines between
the left and right sides, then are routed to the wheel cylinders with rigid
aluminum tubing. The low pressure tube (nylo-flow or equivalent) (supplied
with all brake kits) connects to the brake reservoir(s). Both of the nylon
type tubes are listed in Van's Summer 1998 Accessories Catalog, page 45.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>
>>Thanks Leo. So, what kind of hose does Vans deliver with the current
>>kits? I thought I saw some "plastic" hose on an RV-4.
>>
>>Finn
>
>Finn,
>
>I am not sure about "current" but my kit came with aluminum tube for this
>purpose. There are plastic lines provided for the low pressure side
>(resevoir to master). I chose to replace the aluminum lines with aeroquip
>hose for the segment from the bulkhead fitting on the fuselage down the
>gear leg to the brake.
>
>Leo
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake pressure/lines |
I ran one piece 1/4 in stainless lines from the fire wall
down to 8in from the brake assbly. I then used a steel braided hose
from there to the brake. It takes some tricky bending of the tube
but made a nice installation.
RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-6 Takes to the skies |
I AM JEALOUS BUT Happy for you
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
Brown;
Didn't realize we had it so good down here in Texas.
Had no such problem myself, but had a friend over in Lancaster that ran into
your friends problem. He some how got the telephone number of the office
over those who did not have time. He talked to a superv. in that office and
told him of the problem and let him know in polite but well stated firm
words that he as a tax payer was unhappy and who should he write to? Joe
said that the superv. seemed sincerely interested that the lower office did
not 'have the time'. To let him look into it. The results, within about 48
hours Joe had a phone call and they set him up a date to inspect his plane.
It was reasonable, within a couple of weeks, and apparently no hard nosing
over it.
Don't mean to imply that they all go this way, but worth a try.
I've been first hand involved with FAA three times now and had only good
service. In fact, the guy who inspected my plane the first time (the second
was due to a prop change) even gave me lessons as the how to catch and
'milk' rattlesnakes (his then current hobby). For some reason, that went in
one ear and out the other.
John C Darby Jr.
RV6 sold, Cessna 210 bought
Stephenville TX
-----Original Message-----
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com <RV4Brown(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 10:14
Subject: RV-List: DAR's New York State?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Just came back from a local fly-in.
looked at several RV-6 tails and all of them had the skin and the HS 404
ribs modified to clear the HS 814 little stubs. This was done to have
enough meat around the mounting holes were the HS 814 mates with the
fuse.
However, looking at drawing 3PP for my -8, it says to cut the stubbies
to fit the skin. Granted, not having the fuse to look at, I do not know
if this is a problem or not, but it looks kinda scary cutting these now.
Could somebody who has mated the horizontal stab to the fuse on a -8
please comment here.
Thanks
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Main Gear Tires |
---Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In the not too distant future I will be faced with the prospect of
replacing
> the OEM 5.00-5, 6 ply tires currently on my 6A. Apparently I will
have the
> following choices:
>
> McCreary Aero Trainer @ $34/ea
> McCreary Air Trac @ $38/ea
> McCreary Air Hawk @ $46/ea
> McCreary Super Hawk @ $56/ea
> Michelin Condor @ $60/ea
> Michelin Aviator @ $69/ea
> Goodyear Flight Special 2 @ $66/ea
> Goodyear Flight Custom 2 @ $91/ea
> Van's (unspecified brand) @ $47/ea
>
> In my normal mode, I would throw out the high and the low first.
Has anyone
> got good or bad things to say in reference to the balance of
choices, as this
> is yet another of those areas in which I have zip knowledge. I've
always
> liked the Michelins that I put on my Jeep, so I will probably, by
default, go
> with the Aviators. That is, unless there are some strong opinions
on the list
> to the contrary. What say you?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> -GV
Gary:
My kit came with the Condor and I have had good service life. The
airplane will be one year old next week with just about 250 hours and
300 landings. I have the original tires on and have never rotated
them. They are due. I have Goodyear Flight Special to install. Two
local RV-4's report more than double the wear on them. One local -6
had Aero Trainer's and only got 80 hours on them. BTW: I ALWAYS do
full stall 3 point landings.
Thanks VAN for making my dream of owning / building / flying my own
airplane a reality. It is a WONDERFUL flying airplane. I now have
more time in my RV-6 than all the other airplanes that I have flown in
the past 16 years.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Edward's AFB Open House |
Edward's Air Force Base is having their open house on Saturday October
3, 1998. In addition to all the "Heavy Iron", there have always been
a lot of RVs.
Hope to see all the Southern California RV builders there.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fourth Annual Copperstate Dash |
Any RV's going to enter in the Fourth Annual Copperstate Dash Air Race
from Apple Valley CA. to Coolidge, AZ on Oct. 9? I was told that
this is limited to a maximum of 160 HP engines.
<http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/news.html>
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
Flying in So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Static Port location on -8 |
I'm getting my side panels ready to rivet and I started looking for the static
port location. I do not see it called out in any plans. I am using Cleveland
ports and am wondering where to locate them. It'll be a lot easier to while
the panels are still flat. Any help on where to locate the ports would be
appreciated.
Thanks
Alan Kritzman
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Fw: "Cool" Flight Suits, Helmets, etc |
Listers
After reading Mike of Suzie Q fame's post about flight suits, and helmets I
thought I would have to send my two cents worth about this. I have an
ex-Canadian Military flight suit that I wear most of the time when I fly my
4. Its comfortable and convienient and yes it looks cool as well. I don't
have a helmet yet but I like the idea for all the reasons that mike listed
and one is on my wish list for the future.
One other thing that I thought I would mention in this vein is life vests.
I have a brother in the military that gave me the two flight suits I have
and he also, some how managed to acquire two military Mae West life vests.
The ones with the dye markers and strobes, noise maker etc that come with a
CO2 bottle to blow them up. I have had these for a while and had never
flown with them before. This weekend past, I went to a Flyin in Nova Scotia
and to get there from here you have to fly over the Bay of Fundy. (large and
cold) I got a vest out and put it on before I left and it occured to me a
number of times during the trip that I have been foolish in the past not to
have worn them. This weekend was the 5th and 6th times this summer that I
have crossed the bay. I don't think I will be without onr in the future
when going this way. How many of you other easterners have flown over Lake
Michigan coming or going to Oshkosh with out a vest?
One further little story about flight suits. Earlier this month I took my
13 year old son to a small flyin at a airport about 15 minutes away and I
gave him my second suit to wear. It was a little big but he's growing all
the time and it didn't look bad. Being 13 he has acquired a finely tuned
sense of how he looks lately. Anyway when we arrived we were the only RV at
the field and we taxied in and shut down and walked to where they were
selling the food. There was a crowd around the BBQ's and some of the people
were watching us as we walked in and Daniel leaned over to me and said
with a big happy smile "Dad, We're the coolest guys here" ...... I guess
flight suits do count for something.
Cheers
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
The local DAR is Charlie Terry - Great Guy - Builder & IA I see Scott G,
passed along the same info but did not include Charlie's Pager Number - Its a
Service and he calls right back.
The pager is as follows 1-888-382-2764.
He does like to inspect in stages, like prior to closing the wings etc, If he
is going to sign it off, he likes to know what's inside. He will however
inspect the completed plane.
Good Luck
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV
Wings Closed & Inspected by
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Main Gear Tires |
With aircraft tires (and most other things) you get what you pay for.
The OEM (Van's) tires on my RV-6A were worn out VERY quickly. I replaced
them with Goodyear Flight Custom II and only recently "turned" them. I
have had almost 500 landings on the Goodyear tires, and they're good for
hundreds more from the looks of the thread. Based on my experience I
would buy nothing else. BTW, Dresser folks said if you leave your plane
on the ramp in the sun, the Goodyear side walls "go" quickly, but if
hangared they recommended them. The Michelins were thought by Dresser to
be best for aircraft parked in the sun. For what it's worth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <edperry(at)access1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: "Cool" Flight Suits, Helmets, etc |
Got any pictures???
Ed Perry
edperry(at)access1.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 8:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fw: "Cool" Flight Suits, Helmets, etc
>
>
>
>
>Listers
>
>After reading Mike of Suzie Q fame's post about flight suits, and helmets I
>thought I would have to send my two cents worth about this. I have an
>ex-Canadian Military flight suit that I wear most of the time when I fly my
>4. Its comfortable and convienient and yes it looks cool as well. I don't
>have a helmet yet but I like the idea for all the reasons that mike listed
>and one is on my wish list for the future.
>
>One other thing that I thought I would mention in this vein is life vests.
>I have a brother in the military that gave me the two flight suits I have
>and he also, some how managed to acquire two military Mae West life vests.
>The ones with the dye markers and strobes, noise maker etc that come with a
>CO2 bottle to blow them up. I have had these for a while and had never
>flown with them before. This weekend past, I went to a Flyin in Nova
Scotia
>and to get there from here you have to fly over the Bay of Fundy. (large
and
>cold) I got a vest out and put it on before I left and it occured to me a
>number of times during the trip that I have been foolish in the past not to
>have worn them. This weekend was the 5th and 6th times this summer that I
>have crossed the bay. I don't think I will be without onr in the future
>when going this way. How many of you other easterners have flown over Lake
>Michigan coming or going to Oshkosh with out a vest?
>
>One further little story about flight suits. Earlier this month I took my
>13 year old son to a small flyin at a airport about 15 minutes away and I
>gave him my second suit to wear. It was a little big but he's growing all
>the time and it didn't look bad. Being 13 he has acquired a finely tuned
>sense of how he looks lately. Anyway when we arrived we were the only RV
at
>the field and we taxied in and shut down and walked to where they were
>selling the food. There was a crowd around the BBQ's and some of the
people
>were watching us as we walked in and Daniel leaned over to me and said
>with a big happy smile "Dad, We're the coolest guys here" ...... I guess
>flight suits do count for something.
>
>Cheers
>
>Joe Hine
>C-FYTQ RV4
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <edperry(at)access1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Helmets and other stuff |
Got Any pictures???
Ed Perry
edperry(at)access1.net
-----Original Message-----
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Helmets and other stuff
>
>>For a hard hat, I have an HGU-55, It is light, it works well, you can wear
>>glasses under it.
>
>I bought my helmet from Flight Suits, Ltd at OSH the year before I finished
>Suzie Q, wanting it for flight testing. If I managed to tip the airplane
>over, I wanted something besides my poor punkin head dragging along the
turf
>. I also wanted protection from an ejected/lost canopy and FIRE. As
>previoulsy discussed (see the archives) they actually are not as protective
>as an auto racing helmet but way better than nothing, fit in the cockpit
>better and have the electronics installed. I liked the help FSL provided
and
>their service. I needed a bit more leather on the helmet to protect the
>canopy better and it was just a matter of calling up Fred and having him
>send me a small patch. Free, by the way.
>
>Now, even after my flight testing, I fly with the helmet all the time. I
got
>really used to the protection it provides. Mine was a custom fit as I have
>an odd-shapped head and could rave for a while how comfortable it is.
>Helmets don't have a good reputation for comfort but this one truely is. It
>is light and there are no "hot spots". Longest I've had it on was three +
>hours. No problem. If you are considering one, consider the custom fit for
a
>few well-spent extra dollars. Unless you have a standard head (?). I have
>the HGU-55 which fits very well under the canopy, two inches to spare. It
>has the visor without the hardware and cover which means it doesn't stick
up
>so high. I didn't like the skull caps (cloth hat under the helmet) from FSL
>and ordered one from Watkins Aviation. Much thicker and more comfortable.
>
>>I have one fear in flying. FIRE! I don't always wear nomex in my RV, but
I
>>do in warbirds. Nomex flightsuits and gloves are really important and in
>my >view are as critical as a hard hat.
>
>I agree. I always wear my helmet and usually wear my Nomex flight suit. I'm
>sure there are some folks that think I wear them just to look "cool", what
>with Suzie Q's "military" paint scheme (primer). Far from it. (Well, maybe
>not too far...) I had a chat with a pilot at OSH several years ago who had
>hellish scars on his arms (and probably elsewhere) from an RV-4 incident
>that involved an early landing and FIRE. He survived but has some nasty
>scars to show for it. Started me thinking: the big-and-fast guys wear them
>for a reason; do I have any good reasons NOT to wear them. Don't mind what
>people think; I like 'em. I like, also, having my pens handy in the pen
>pockets and my canopy breaking device (large knife; you DO have a canopy
>breaking device, don't you?) on my person (in one of the leg pockets). Also
>gives me somewhere to put my patches.
>
>I also have a Nomex flight jacket. You do NOT want your cool looking Nylon
>jacket on if there is a small FIRE anywhere around. And you need golves of
>some kind. I wear deer skin rather than Nomex as they are more flexable and
>comfortable. And less expensive. And the Blue Angels wear them. Gloves can
>help you push/pull something hot out of the way, if needed. One of Rod
>Machado's many recommendations for pilots, at least to have them handy.
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>Visor down, canopy down and locked.....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
My first set of tires on my RV-6 were Mcreary Air Trac. I originally fit
my wheel fairings to the Air-Trac, and purposely fit them tite for speed). For
the second set, I decided to try a more quality tire, so went with Mcreary
Air-Hawk. These have a squared-off profile, as opposed to the balloon-like
profile of the Air-Trac. The squared profile rubbed my wheel fairings, so
went back to the Air-Trac. Depending upon how tite your wheel fairings fit,
be careful about changing.
________________________________________________________________________________
heyheyhay(at)aol.com, don.wentz(at)intel.com, jthiesse(at)hcs.state.or.us,
Jeffrey_S_Cohen(at)ccm.intel.com, jwb(at)europa.com, jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com,
jhaugen(at)columbia-center.org, 76645.531(at)compuserve.com,
james.mike.wilson(at)ccm.intel.com, oregon-rvlist(at)list.dnc.net,
randall(at)edt.com, robertd(at)msmail2.precisionint.com,
rv-list(at)matronics.com, scottgreen(at)earthlink.net
| Subject: | ...and we're here to help you |
Top Headlines from AVweb's NewsWire
BB VS FAA: A DAVID AND GOLIATH STORY...
In a battle that often seemed unwinnable, it appears that B&C Specialty
Products' Bill Bainbridge has finally prevailed. His victory has come
at a price: his livelihood, his family, even his health have been
affected. Regular AVweb readers will remember that Bainbridge has been
complaining for two years that an FAA enforcement action filed against
him was totally without merit, that he had done nothing wrong. After
the "Meet the Boss" session at OSH this year, Bainbridge was finally
handed the long promised official letter that stated the action against
him was being dropped. What you will probably also remember is that the
last paragraph of that letter contained a not-so-veiled threat that the
FAA would likely go after him again. Last week Bainbridge received a
"clarification" of that letter from Guy Gardner, Associate Administrator
for Regulation and Certification (not from the FAA lawyers), in which
all the threatening language had been removed -- though in a final
insult, it was addressed and sent to EAA's Tom Poberezny, with a copy
faxed to Bainbridge. He is still awaiting a personal apology.
...BUT THE UNDERLYING PROBLEMS AT THE FAA REMAIN...
How does all this affect you? In following up on the Bainbridge case,
AVweb obtained an internal FAA staff report which reveals that several
of the highest-ranking lawyers in the FAA continued to prosecute the
enforcement action against Bainbridge for nearly a year after being told
that Flight Standards had investigated the complaint, determined that no
violation had in fact occurred, and recommended that the Administrator
withdraw the action. In a chilling telephone exchange documented in the
report, the lawyer tasked with the case says in essence that causing
pain and suffering is acceptable because "that's how the system works."
...THAT'S HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS?
At any point during Bainbridge's two-year ordeal, someone at the
administrative level of the FAA could have stopped it, but no one did.
Whether it was by omission or commission, the outcome was the same: Bill
Bainbridge suffered, unnecessarily, for two years. The question that
Bainbridge asks is: does Administrator Garvey recognize the problem?
Will any action be taken against those who persecuted him? A bigger
question is: Can she -- and will she -- do anything to prevent the same
fate befalling others?
NOTE: AVweb's NewsWire includes Liz Swaine's revealing special
investigative report on the BB affair with the full text of the
"smoking gun" internal staff report document and background
material, including RealAudio of Bainbridge's exchange with Garvey at
Air Venture OSH this past August. Don't miss Mike Busch's editorial,
"The FAA's Top Lawyers Are Out Of Control!", where he explains in
depth the ramifications of these revelations and suggests a solution
to Ms. Garvey: <http://www.avweb.com/toc/atis.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Re: Helmets and other stuff |
>How much does a helmet cost with all the nessesary goodies?
Craig: A custom fit HGU-55 helmet with standard ear cups costs $414 in
Military Grey from Flight Suits Ltd. Additionally: Microphone: $102, mount:
$12; earphones: $22; helmet bag: $64. So, about 600-650 for all you need.
Other options (Kelvar, custom paint, etc.) add on. But, worth it, I think.
Christmas is, after all, just around the bend. Have to give yourself
SOMEthing, right?
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: "Cool" Flight Suits, Helmets, etc |
Joe,
The first time I flew to Oshkosh in a rented Piper Arrow - Lake Erie was a
snap, but
when it came to Lake Mischigan that was another story. I have since
purchased a Seneca with 2 engines & it is equiped with 6 life vests & a raft.
Not that you can fit a raft in the RV but the water up here gets COLD in the
winter.
The vests sell for about 29.00 to 59.00 - real cheap insurance & gives you a
bit more time,
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
N929RV ( Reserved )
Closed Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
BSivori(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> The local DAR is Charlie Terry - Great Guy - Builder & IA I see Scott G,
> I've noticed the thread on DARs and was wondering if a comprehensive list of
at least those DARs who are knowledgable and willing to inspect experimentals
existed or should we RV-List users start compling such a list. I recently had
my RV-6A inspected by Ed Hasch a DAR from Tennesee who had built and flew an
RV-6. Sure it cost, however, I felt the service provided was well worth the price.
I lost several months waiting for the FAA. The were nice enought and returned
my package when requested, but clearly had homebuilt inspections near
the low end of their list. In my case, I believe it was principally their work
load rather than being hostile to homebuilts..
Ed
>
> Good Luck
>
> BSivori(at)AOL.COM
> N929RV
> Wings Closed & Inspected by
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR's New York State? |
I second David's remarks about Ed Hasch as an excellent DAR. He
inspected my RV-6A in Northern Virgina in August. He was flying in on
his onw business and had some time, so I picked him up at the airport,
he did the inspection, we completed the paper work at the house after
dinner and a cool one or two, he spent the night and I dropped him off
at the airport next morning. Great Guy and if you are ready aircraft
and paperwork wise you will find it a breeze. Very thorough, not picky
but - you bird and paperwork must meet the FAR requirements.
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW
David Hudgins wrote:
>
>
> >Does anyone know whether there are other
> >DAR's closer to this section of the state? (45 miles NW of New York City)
>
> Don't know of any in NY, but I highly recommend the DAR who inspected my
> -6A. His name is Ed Hasch,
> Dave Hudgins
> Nashville -6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: "Cool" Flight Suits, Helmets, etc |
<< Anyway when we arrived we were the only RV at
the field and we taxied in and shut down and walked to where they were
selling the food. There was a crowd around the BBQ's and some of the people
were watching us as we walked in and Daniel leaned over to me and said
with a big happy smile "Dad, We're the coolest guys here" ...... I guess
flight suits do count for something.
Cheers
Joe Hine >>
Joe:
You have made sure your son will continue in aviation with that flight suit.
Congrats!
.This info should be passed on to the EAA Young Eagle flight program!
Check six!
Mark
Prez EAA Chap 187 Austin TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: "Cool" Flight Suits, Helmets, etc |
In some years at Oshkosh, we have had a couple of planes that tried the
"short cut " across the lake. They LOST! Thunder storms that come up
without warning can and do tear planes apart, even Bonanzas.
Nothing left to repair - Cy Galley, Chairman-Emergency Aircraft Repair
-----Original Message-----
From: BSivori(at)aol.com <BSivori(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 6:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: "Cool" Flight Suits, Helmets, etc
>
>Joe,
>
>The first time I flew to Oshkosh in a rented Piper Arrow - Lake Erie was a
>snap, but
>when it came to Lake Mischigan that was another story. I have since
>purchased a Seneca with 2 engines & it is equiped with 6 life vests & a
raft.
>
>Not that you can fit a raft in the RV but the water up here gets COLD in
the
>winter.
>
>The vests sell for about 29.00 to 59.00 - real cheap insurance & gives you
a
>bit more time,
>
>
>BSivori(at)AOL.COM
>N929RV ( Reserved )
>Closed Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS 814 Question |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Just came back from a local fly-in.
>looked at several RV-6 tails and all of them had the skin and the HS
>404
>ribs modified to clear the HS 814 little stubs. This was done to have
>enough meat around the mounting holes were the HS 814 mates with the
>fuse.
>
>However, looking at drawing 3PP for my -8, it says to cut the stubbies
>to fit the skin. Granted, not having the fuse to look at, I do not
>know
>if this is a problem or not, but it looks kinda scary cutting these
>now.
>
>Could somebody who has mated the horizontal stab to the fuse on a -8
>please comment here.
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Gert
>--
>
Gert, You mentioned that you had looked at a number of airplanes and only
mentioned one model (an RV-6). Since there are so few RV-8's flying I
will assume that you didn't look at one of those.
RV-8's and RV-6's are not the same.
The way the horizontal stab. fits on an 8 these tabs are not necessary.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Main Gear Tires |
All 4 RV's in my hangar have switched to Michelin Condor or Michelin Aviator
tires. They wear much better and we seem to have fewer air leak problems.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Opps, deleted your e-mail |
Yesterday I received a personal e-mail from a lister who had a question
regarding aviation product liability insurance. For some reason (it was
11:30pm and I was half asleep) I hit "delete" instead of "reply". Opps!
I would like to reply, so if you would, please resend your request to me. I
do remember that the request came from a company who produces avionics
components.
Thanks (and sorry),
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EDWARD HASCH JR <hasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | DAR's New York State |
I am a DAR assigned to the southern region, however, I do travel to
other areas for airworthiness certification. I support the EAA mission.
I can be contacted at res 615-824-4704 work 615-275-3418
beeper 1-800-759-7243 pin # 78147.
Ed Hasch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Main Gear Tires |
Gary: Was looking for one of you at Osweco fly-in...Where was everybody?? Was
showing off the new 3 with 160- O-320... Came back to Old Bridge at 7500..2450
rpm...206-210 on gps...really goes...Will have to stop over before the snow
blows...SYL-Jim Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Longeron Shipping |
Just wanted to thank everyone for the information on longeron angle. After
being pointed in the right direction found that stuff is common as dirt!
Found three suppliers within 50 miles of Bowling Green, KY. Steve will find
some other way to spend that $100.00 other than shipping.
Spar in the Jig
Bentley Floyd
AA/5A N9985U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
>
>>Has any one had the trouble with high egt , at 1500 - 2500 msl ??
>>If so, what action was taken. Eng. 0-360 C/S
>>RV-6 N7470U B.W.G. Ken
>
>I had an exhaust valve stick open on a mooney once, and the exhaust
>gas temp went out of sight high on one cylinder. The engine also ran
poorly,
>so if this is the problem with yours, you should have other indications.
Usually EGT drops if the exhaust valve sticks open. That cylinder has
virtually no compression so it can't draw in much fuel/air mix to burn.
High EGT usually occurs when a plug fouls (high EGT on one cyl) or a mag
fails (sudden high EGT on all cyls). EGT is just one more parameter to use
in troubleshooting problems, but it doesn't always help.
I once had one of the baffles in my muffler (Grumman Tiger) fail and
partially block the exhaust. There was a sudden decrease in power but
other indications, i.e. EGT and CHT, remained the same. I thought it was a
mag at first but without the concomitant rise in EGT I had to rule that
out. It took a fair bit of guessing to troubleshoot because everything
worked fine on the ground and nothing *appeared* to be broken.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary kozinski <KOZINSKI(at)symbol.com> |
Anyone building or know of any RV'ing in Austria? (not the folks down under)
I'm planning a trip to Vienna.
Reply direct to me at: kozinski(at)symbol.com
Gary RV-6 20038 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Port location on -8 |
Alan,
You might want to rethink the plan to use flush static sources.
There will be a significant difference in the pressure at the port,
because the curved rivet head in Van's design will cause the flow to
accelerate, and the pressure to drop. This may compensate for a
higher than ambient pressure in this area, and give accurate static
pressures.
Here is a message from the RV-List archives:
==> Date: May 04, 1998
==>
==> From: Totland <mail.algonet.se>
==>
==> Subject: Static ports.
==>
==> Since the first flight of my RV6 (#20898)three years ago, I have known
==> that the AI is reading low. In fact, flight testing using clock, GPS and
==> chase plane have shown that it reads ~10kts low. Well, it was on the "safe"
==> side, so fixing it was also low on my priority list. This weekend I finally
==> decided that it was time do something about it. Judging from
previous threads,
==> the results might be of interest to some of you.
==>
==> I am using the AN5812 heated pitot tube on my -6, but this is not
important
==> as type of probe and position are non-critical items for total-pressure
==> measurements. Not so for static pressure. Therefore I was careful to
==> follow Van's instructions regarding static port location, which I trust
==> are based on flight experience. What I did not notice however, was that
==> Van used "universal head" blind rivets as ports. These introduce a local
==> low pressure (due to curvature) right at the orifice, which I do not get
==> with my machined, perfectly flush ports.
==>
==> So, what I did was to install "dummy" rivets. I used the heads of two
==> 3/16" AN470AD6 rivets, drilled 2mm holes in the centre of each head
==> (drilling before cutting off head) and glued them in place over the
==> flush static ports, taking care to align the holes. That was just what
==> was needed to correct the position error. It has been verified using
==> available means (clock and GPS) in a before/after test. Same day, similar
==> flight conditions. As a side effect, I now have no change in IAS
(or altitude)
==> when switching from static port to alternate static (cabin pressure).
==>
==> The only problem is the annoying sight of two big, universal head rivets
==> on the otherwise smooth airplane. I see it every time before entering the
==> cockpit :(
==>
==> Ernst Totland
==> totland(at)algonet.se
==> SE-XOI, new canopy installed.
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>
>I'm getting my side panels ready to rivet and I started looking for the static
>port location. I do not see it called out in any plans. I am using Cleveland
>ports and am wondering where to locate them. It'll be a lot easier to while
>the panels are still flat. Any help on where to locate the ports would be
>appreciated.
>Thanks
>Alan Kritzman
>RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mikesrv6(at)aol.com |
I'd like to have information how to rivet my main wing spar i have a 3x rivet
gun is it enough with high air press about 130-150 psi or do i neet at least a
4x gun
body??
Was showing off the new 3 with 160- O-320... Came back to Old Bridge at
7500..2450 rpm...206-210 on gps...really goes...Will have to stop over before
the snow blows. >>
We were doing Young Eagle duty at N85 for handicapped kids. Lots of fun!
Yes, we would love to see you new rocket.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Empenage Fairing |
Some builders make a removable aluminum fairing strip that goes below the
horizontal stab. Why should it be removable? What reason would you have to
remove it?
Bob
San Antonio; RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Spar |
Mikesrv6(at)aol.com wrote:
> I'd like to have information how to rivet my main wing spar i have
> a 3x rivet
> gun is it enough with high air press about 130-150 psi or do i neet at
> least a 4x gun
It *can* be done (a friend did his RV-4 spar this way). However, I
wouldn't recommend it.
For various other ways to do spar construction, see
<http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2a.htm>
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottj(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Main Gear Tires |
In all the airplanes I have owned over the years, it seems the goodyear
flightcustom II's have given me longest service. They work well on my RV6A
and Vans new wheel pants. I only got about 110 hours out of the tires that
came with the 6A kit, but that is partially due to the fact that I like to
make the first turnoff the taxi way at my airport (hehehehe).
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Main Gear Tires
>
>In the not too distant future I will be faced with the prospect of
replacing
>the OEM 5.00-5, 6 ply tires currently on my 6A. Apparently I will have the
>following choices:
>
>McCreary Aero Trainer @ $34/ea
>McCreary Air Trac @ $38/ea
>McCreary Air Hawk @ $46/ea
>McCreary Super Hawk @ $56/ea
>Michelin Condor @ $60/ea
>Michelin Aviator @ $69/ea
>Goodyear Flight Special 2 @ $66/ea
>Goodyear Flight Custom 2 @ $91/ea
>Van's (unspecified brand) @ $47/ea
>
>In my normal mode, I would throw out the high and the low first. Has
anyone
>got good or bad things to say in reference to the balance of choices, as
this
>is yet another of those areas in which I have zip knowledge. I've always
>liked the Michelins that I put on my Jeep, so I will probably, by default,
go
>with the Aviators. That is, unless there are some strong opinions on the
list
>to the contrary. What say you?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>-GV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Spar |
> I'd like to have information how to rivet my main wing spar i have a 3x rivet
> gun is it enough with high air press about 130-150 psi or do i neet at least
a
> 4x gun
Check out the archives. Also the RV-list FAQ. Lots of info in there on
various ways to do it. The 3x gun is pretty light although there are
some I believe who claim they used it and it worked. I would think you
would have to hit it too many times and work harden the rivet.
But IMHO there's no need to use a gun, squeezer, or anything else -- a 5
lb hammer with Avery C arbor works great. Many hundreds of RVs have
been built using this method.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Elevators - Oil canning (prevention) |
After building my right elevator I participated in rv-list discussion of
"oil-canning" and reviewed other builder tips, main two being: 1)
"rivet ends, then middle, then middle of those sections, etc", 2) "rivet
obviously high spots, then low spots on spar, then halve those unequal
sections, etc".
I then started working on my left elevator and noticed after drilling a
few stiffeners to the first side of skin, that the skin was raised
slightly in the classic "oil canning" appearance between the last
stiffener and the one I was doing next. It happened as I began holding
the upper skin out of the way as I worked on the last 3 or so holes at
the trailing edge - this tends to cause the bottom skin to raise
slightly off of the table, even when holding your thumb on the new
stiffener and it and skin are flat on table there. If I had continued,
I feel I would have created an "oil canning" "bubble" there. I believe
this to be a likely place where we are introducing oil canning into our
thin skined elevators.
I believe it would be useful for builders to use another sequence of
drilling the stiffeners than just starting at one end and drilling each
stiffener completely (leading edge to trailing edge), in turn.. The
following sequence seems to be what is needed in the builder's manual
(or in the archives of the RV-list):
Start with a stiffener near the middle of elevator and only drill the
first four holes (from leading edge), then alternate drilling stiffeners
to either side, but always limiting it to four holes per stiffener
closest to leading edge - where the upper skin does not have to be held
back out of the way to the extent that it is beginning to stress and
curl the bottom skin up away from the table. Then, with all stiffeners
drilled and cleco'd to the table by four clecos, return to the middle
stiffener and finish drilling the remaining holes back to the trailing
edge, then alternate to either side completing all the other
stiffeners. When doing this "second pass" drilling, pay attention to
holding the skin truly flat against table between last stiffener done
and the one about to be finished - don't let the stress transferred
while holding the upper skin back cause an "oil can" "bubble" between
two stiffeners.
Somebody try it out and let us know how it looks after you do the "final
bend" of the trailing edge and fit the skin and spar into the V-block
jig. Hopefully, the skin will touch the spar evenly from one end to the
other without the "oil canning" high spots.
David Carter, RV-6 left elevator (pa...ting stiffeners and and inner
skin before back rivet), Nederland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: "Cool" Flight Suits, Helmets, etc |
In a message dated 9/14/98 11:16:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca writes:
<< How many of you other easterners have flown over Lake
Michigan coming or going to Oshkosh with out a vest? >>
The "float coat" is a great idea, and they are not uncomfortable. However,
the next problem is hypothermia. Lake Michigan is not much warmer than the
Atlantic, and survival for some can be measured in minutes. Let's just hope
that anybody going in can be located quickly.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty RV6A" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws |
David, I ordered the AN507C632R8 Screw, FLT HD SS from Van's with the
K1100-06 platenuts. Dimpled both E-615 and E-616 with #6 dimple die. Works
and looks terrific.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 5:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws
>
>Ordered K1100-06 countersunk platenuts and AN505-6 flush head screws
>from Van's - arrived today - without screws.
>
>Note on invoice says they don't stock AN505-6 flush head screws.
>
>Avery doesn't stock so called Wicks -they are shipping MS 35190-238 by
>1/2 inch long.
>I would appreciate someone summarizing for me what I need to do to
>prepare the screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate and E-616 cover
>plate:
> I think I should dimple the 7 screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate
>and in the 616 cover plate. The round head screws I have on hand and -4
>rivets seem to fit about the same in these holes, so I think I could use
>the 1/8" rivet hole dimple dies. A previous post by Robert "Bob" Di Meo
>said there were specific dimple dies for these screws, that provided
>better fit - anyone know nomenclature and source?
>
>Is there a need to "machine countersink" either the cover plate (seems
>kind of thin for that) - or touch up either the dimple in E-615
>reinforceing plate (with deburring tool or countersink bit)?
>
>David Carter, RV-6 left elevator, Nederland, Texas
>
>
>
>
. |
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Spar |
A friend of mine has used a 3 lb hammer and a hand riveting and dimpling
tool on several spars he's done. I used a 5X gun and hand riveting and
dimpling tool on my first -6A which worked out good. I also agree that a 3X
gun is pretty light to use. I also know that lots of builders have used the
pneumatic squeezer that Van's rented out (I think still). Good luck on your
decision.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>> I'd like to have information how to rivet my main wing spar i have a 3x
rivet
>> gun is it enough with high air press about 130-150 psi or do i neet at
least a
>> 4x gun
>
>Check out the archives. Also the RV-list FAQ. Lots of info in there on
>various ways to do it. The 3x gun is pretty light although there are
>some I believe who claim they used it and it worked. I would think you
>would have to hit it too many times and work harden the rivet.
>
>But IMHO there's no need to use a gun, squeezer, or anything else -- a 5
>lb hammer with Avery C arbor works great. Many hundreds of RVs have
>been built using this method.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loren D. Jones" <Loren(at)LorenJones.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Main Gear Tires |
In a recent Flying, I believe, one of the columnist (McClellan?) raved about
the Michelin's as the best thing since round wheels.
>
>In the not too distant future I will be faced with the prospect of
replacing
>the OEM 5.00-5, 6 ply tires currently on my 6A. Apparently I will have the
>following choices:
>
>McCreary Aero Trainer @ $34/ea
>McCreary Air Trac @ $38/ea
>McCreary Air Hawk @ $46/ea
>McCreary Super Hawk @ $56/ea
>Michelin Condor @ $60/ea
>Michelin Aviator @ $69/ea
>Goodyear Flight Special 2 @ $66/ea
>Goodyear Flight Custom 2 @ $91/ea
>Van's (unspecified brand) @ $47/ea
>
>In my normal mode, I would throw out the high and the low first. Has
anyone
>got good or bad things to say in reference to the balance of choices, as
this
>is yet another of those areas in which I have zip knowledge. I've always
>liked the Michelins that I put on my Jeep, so I will probably, by default,
go
>with the Aviators. That is, unless there are some strong opinions on the
list
>to the contrary. What say you?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Spar |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I'd like to have information how to rivet my main wing spar i have a
>3x rivet
>gun is it enough with high air press about 130-150 psi or do i neet at
>least a
>4x gun
>
>
A 4X would be the bare minimum with a 5X being more desirable.
I recommend that you look through the archives and find the description
on how to do it with the C-frame tool. Works great and you are "much"
less likely to do any kind of damage to the spar.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
Hi all,
Moe worte:
>
> Hey guys, I know this has nothing to do with shipping costs, but I'd
> like to ask an engine question. I'm starting to look for a powerplant,
I just got a notice of an AD on crankshafts reworked by Nelson - since someitme
in '95. Applies to both Continentals and Lycomings. Might save you replacing
a crankshaft if you can verify that your purchase does not have such
crankshaft.
> From what I have heard so far, from many different sources, I think I am
> going to get an O-360, and add an aftermarket fuel injection system, and
> maybe high compression pistons. What else can I do to increase
> performance safely? Does anyone have any suggestions? Can anyone suggest
> a good engine shop?
Well, replacing the crankshaft won't do that much for performance but it would
be safer since it would have seen fewer fatigue cycles. I just recently read
that regrinds are limited to keep total crankshaft hours down.
Increasing performance safely requires making changes to strengthen the rest of
the stuff so that it can handle increased power. However, blueprinting,
balancing and increasing bore to max and near limits ought to be acceptable.
Limit oversize pistons gives some increase in cubic capacity. Of course, this
means reduced durability (time to OH). Open up and tune the exhaust, open the
intake manifold and mount a bigger carb, regrind the camshaft etc are good
"hopup" items but they do add stresses to rest of the structure.
How about turbocharging?
What do the Ly-Con racers do?
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Fitting canopy rear skirts
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
I looked at some muffler disigns for autos - seems there are some with a good chance
of failing in a mode that would severly restrict the exhaust
and hence, the power. All aircraft muffs seem to avoid this.
Does anyone know about the importance of this?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | daviddla(at)Juno.com (Blah ba Blah) |
Hello; I have been trying to find information on concial versus
dynofocial engine mounts. I couldn't find much information in the
archives . I know everyone has a opinion, but I would like to hear from
people who have actual experience in RVs with both type of mounts. I am
only concerned with the vibration and what it will do to the airframe. It
seems to be easier to find used engines that are conical mounts, because
they are older? Any help would be appreicated. David Ahrens RV-6A
Fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Fairing |
Robert D. Cabe wrote:
>
>
> Some builders make a removable aluminum fairing strip that goes below the
> horizontal stab. Why should it be removable? What reason would you have to
> remove it?
>
> Bob
> San Antonio; RV-6
I simply masked the opening with electrical tape and filled the gap with
silicone caulk. Works perfectly
Chet and Miss Chiquita, RV6A, 97 hours now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Dear Listers,
I am installing a clone of the Barnard Holy Cowl on my RV8. Last year when
talking to Steve Barnard, he said that they normally used a "K & N Conical
Air Filter # RU-2710 that is supposedly available at Auto Parts Stores. I
have tried the NAPA stores who are the largest in my area and normally have
everything, and they do not have any such thing, and also do not have a
listing of the filter or any other cross over number. Does anyone know
where I can obtain this filter? (or am I looking for the wrong number).
Thank You.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
80124 running out of parts
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 vs O-360 |
In a message dated 9/15/98 8:56:12 PM Central Daylight Time, halk(at)sybase.com
writes:
> From what I have heard so far, from many different sources, I think I am
> > going to get an O-360, and add an aftermarket fuel injection system, and
> > maybe high compression pistons. What else can I do to increase
> > performance safely? Does anyone have any suggestions? Can anyone suggest
> > a good engine shop?
I would look at Lycon for an engine shop. they will be doing my engine when i
get that far. www.lycon.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
Try speed shops. They are more likely to carry K&N filters. The can also
be reached at www.knfilters.com They have a great catalog.
Dan Morris
RV6 flying
-----Original Message-----
From: martin <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 7:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Air Filter
>
>Dear Listers,
>I am installing a clone of the Barnard Holy Cowl on my RV8. Last year when
>talking to Steve Barnard, he said that they normally used a "K & N Conical
>Air Filter # RU-2710 that is supposedly available at Auto Parts Stores. I
>have tried the NAPA stores who are the largest in my area and normally have
>everything, and they do not have any such thing, and also do not have a
>listing of the filter or any other cross over number. Does anyone know
>where I can obtain this filter? (or am I looking for the wrong number).
>Thank You.
>Dick Martin
>RV8 N233M
>80124 running out of parts
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Type-S Vs. Standard Cowl |
Has anyone had experiences with both types of cowls? What is the
advantages, and which one is the easiest to install?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevators - Oil canning (prevention) |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I believe it would be useful for builders to use another sequence of
>drilling the stiffeners than just starting at one end and drilling
>each
>stiffener completely (leading edge to trailing edge), in turn.. The
>following sequence seems to be what is needed in the builder's manual
>(or in the archives of the RV-list):
>
>Start with a stiffener near the middle of elevator and only drill the
>first four holes (from leading edge), then alternate drilling
>stiffeners
>to either side, but always limiting it to four holes per stiffener
>closest to leading edge - where the upper skin does not have to be
>held
>back out of the way to the extent that it is beginning to stress and
>curl the bottom skin up away from the table. Then, with all
>stiffeners
>drilled and cleco'd to the table by four clecos, return to the middle
>stiffener and finish drilling the remaining holes back to the trailing
>edge, then alternate to either side completing all the other
>stiffeners. When doing this "second pass" drilling, pay attention to
>holding the skin truly flat against table between last stiffener done
>and the one about to be finished - don't let the stress transferred
>while holding the upper skin back cause an "oil can" "bubble" between
>two stiffeners.
>
>David Carter, RV-6 left elevator (pa...ting stiffeners and and inner
>skin before back rivet), Nederland, Texas
>
>
>
David,
I suppose this is possible, but I am doubtful. And I have never seen any
kind of oil caning problem that begins to show up just because of the
order you drill stiffners.
The reason I am doubtful is that after dimpling there is a reasonable
amount of slop/clearance in all of the holes that wont make the skin take
any specific position (within reason).
In fact I recently took a slight twist out that was built into a right
elevator (by someone else, not me) just by drilling out all of the rivets
in the spar, putting it back in a set of V blocks and reriveting.
No more twist.
I believe a lot of the oil canning that builders have problems with is
1 - As mentioned before, the sequence that they rivet in.
2 - The bend on the trailing edge when they close the skin.
If you use a home made break that is flexible/etc. it can result
in you bending the skin closed a little more at each end than you
do in the middle... Guarantied oil can.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Jordan Family" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
RU-2710 is a valid K&N part number for one of their "Universal Air Filters".
It is described as a round tapered filter with a rubber end cap. 3 5/16
(84mm) flange inside diameter, 6 1/2 inches long. They don't show a cross
reference to any standard auto filters for this model, which is
understandable, since this shape is not common in factory auto applications.
You can contact K&N at;
K&N Engineering, Inc.
561 Iowa Ave.
P.O. Box 1329
Riverside, CA 92502
ph. 909 684 9762
fx. 909 684 0716
By the way, the K&N catalog contains this message
"This catalog DOES NOT contain any products that are designed , or intended
for use on aircraft of any kind."
Our wonderful tort systems at work.
Mel Jordan
RV6A empennage kit coming
-----Original Message-----
From: martin <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 7:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Air Filter
>
>Dear Listers,
>I am installing a clone of the Barnard Holy Cowl on my RV8. Last year when
>talking to Steve Barnard, he said that they normally used a "K & N Conical
>Air Filter # RU-2710 that is supposedly available at Auto Parts Stores. I
>have tried the NAPA stores who are the largest in my area and normally have
>everything, and they do not have any such thing, and also do not have a
>listing of the filter or any other cross over number. Does anyone know
>where I can obtain this filter? (or am I looking for the wrong number).
>Thank You.
>Dick Martin
>RV8 N233M
>80124 running out of parts
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fourth Annual Copperstate Dash |
<< ny RV's going to enter in the Fourth Annual Copperstate Dash Air Race
from Apple Valley CA. to Coolidge, AZ on Oct. 9? I was told that
this is limited to a maximum of 160 HP engines.
>>
I'm seriously considering it, sounds like fun. You are right, 160hp is the
max.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Pick up any kind of "Hot Rod" automotive magazine. They are very popular with cars
and trucks. I've had one in my last 3 trucks, and it really does make a
difference. Any speed shop will have one. Napa and Pep Boys will not know what
you
are talking about. Ask for a "K & N Filter Charger".
Moe Colontonio
martin wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
> I am installing a clone of the Barnard Holy Cowl on my RV8. Last year when
> talking to Steve Barnard, he said that they normally used a "K & N Conical
> Air Filter # RU-2710 that is supposedly available at Auto Parts Stores. I
> have tried the NAPA stores who are the largest in my area and normally have
> everything, and they do not have any such thing, and also do not have a
> listing of the filter or any other cross over number. Does anyone know
> where I can obtain this filter? (or am I looking for the wrong number).
> Thank You.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> 80124 running out of parts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Fairing |
Bob,
My understanding is that if you ever needed to adjust the incident
angle of your horizontal stablizer based on your initial flight test or
perhaps adding different equipment (such as a larger (heavier) engine,
constant speed prop, etc., you might need to also adjust the Horz Stab.
If so then you would probably find that the metal strip would need
triming or would perhaps leave a gap.
Ed RV-6A N494BW
Robert D. Cabe wrote:
>
>
> Some builders make a removable aluminum fairing strip that goes below the
> horizontal stab. Why should it be removable? What reason would you have to
> remove it?
>
> Bob
> San Antonio; RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws |
I think your problem is the incomplete screw specs. There may be a AN505
but with out the -632R8 behind it. who knows the thread size. I could not
find it in my hardware manual. The AN507 is current. The C indicates it
is stainless, 632 is the diameter - 6 with 32 threads per inch and the 8 is
1/2 inch long
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty RV6A <emrath(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws
>
>David, I ordered the AN507C632R8 Screw, FLT HD SS from Van's with the
>K1100-06 platenuts. Dimpled both E-615 and E-616 with #6 dimple die.
Works
>and looks terrific.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Carter <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Cc: dbimeo(at)mediaone.net
>Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 5:03 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Left Elev E-616 cover plate: Flush head screws
>
>
>>
>>Ordered K1100-06 countersunk platenuts and AN505-6 flush head screws
>>from Van's - arrived today - without screws.
>>
>>Note on invoice says they don't stock AN505-6 flush head screws.
>>
>>Avery doesn't stock so called Wicks -they are shipping MS 35190-238 by
>>1/2 inch long.
>>I would appreciate someone summarizing for me what I need to do to
>>prepare the screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate and E-616 cover
>>plate:
>> I think I should dimple the 7 screw holes in E-615 reinforcing plate
>>and in the 616 cover plate. The round head screws I have on hand and -4
>>rivets seem to fit about the same in these holes, so I think I could use
>>the 1/8" rivet hole dimple dies. A previous post by Robert "Bob" Di Meo
>>said there were specific dimple dies for these screws, that provided
>>better fit - anyone know nomenclature and source?
>>
>>Is there a need to "machine countersink" either the cover plate (seems
>>kind of thin for that) - or touch up either the dimple in E-615
>>reinforceing plate (with deburring tool or countersink bit)?
>>
>>David Carter, RV-6 left elevator, Nederland, Texas
>>
>>
>>
>>
>. |
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Watson <gtwatson(at)students.wisc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Main Wing Spar |
> I'd like to have information how to rivet my main wing spar i have a 3x
rivet
> gun is it enough with high air press about 130-150 psi or do i neet at
least a
> 4x gun
I tried a 4x on my spars and wouldn't recommend it. It worked fine on the
shorter rivets, but I had problems with the longer rivets work hardening.
I found the Avery C arbor with a 4lb hammer to work much better.
Glen Watson
RV-4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Fairing |
Wish I'd been smart enough to ask this question before pop rivetting
mine Bob. Now if I have to adjust the horizontal stab incidence I'll
be grinding material off with Dremel or file. Still, it will be minor
compared with patching the top fairing to fit again.
Peter Bennett
RV6 Firewall forward
(Plans say screws so I use rivets)
> Some builders make a removable aluminum fairing strip that goes
> below the horizontal stab. Why should it be removable? What reason
> would you have to remove it?
>
> Bob
> San Antonio; RV-6
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)mci.com> |
I was considering using Gretz Aero's AN5814-1 Pitot Tube with Satic
Source. This would prevent the ugly rivet problem that other threads
have described. I know that I'm a long way from needing this gear
right now - but Santa is asking what to get me for Christmas!
Any comments from someone that is using this part would be appreciated!
Ralph Capen
Dallas, TX
RV6A Tail on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
| Subject: | Elec trim installation |
I was wondering what I should do about the wires from the trim servo on my
RV8 when I close up the elevator. What should I connect these wires to
for the time being? I dont think I can reach them once I rivet the
elevator closed.
Secondly, my "Z-brackets" to support the trim servo dont look like I can
mount them as shown in the pictures. I spoke with Vans and I was told it
really didnt matter and I would have to work with these brackets to get
them to fit anyway. I was just curious if others had this problem or if I
am missing something stupid. My drawing shows a cutout in the left
bracket for the wires from the servo. If I use the bracket labeled
"left", it sits the wrong way, putting the servo at the opposite angle.
Also, can anyone recommend a good book on aircraft electrical systems?
Thanks in advance for the help,
Joe
RV8 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
I used a 4X gun with the Avery C arbor tool. Worked beautifully. There is
an extension with the Avery tool that allows you to use it with the rivet
gun.
Bob
San Antonio
RV-6; fiberglass parts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elec trim installation |
I thought of the same thing when I finished my elevator, and it turned out to not
be a problem at all. I also had some trouble with my Z brackets, you just have
to
play around with them to get them to fit. Double and triple check before you drill
or rivet. Mine turned out to be a very tight fit. Also, double check to make sure
that the whole assembly will fit back into the elevator before you premanently
mount the brackets. I had to trim them a little. There is a closeup picture of
this whole assembly on my web page in the elevators section.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Joe Drumm wrote:
> I was wondering what I should do about the wires from the trim servo on my
> RV8 when I close up the elevator. What should I connect these wires to
> for the time being? I dont think I can reach them once I rivet the
> elevator closed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Non-Slip Coating |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (Von Alexander) |
Listers;
I have heard there is a clear non-slip coating that is sprayed on, and
can be used for the wing walk in place of the black sandpaper stuff.
Does anyone know where to get this or the brand name? Or do they make a
clear tape for this purpose?
Von Alexander
RV-8 N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | five inch prop extension |
Does anyone have a 5 inch prop extension for a wood prop that you want to
sell, or suggestions on where to get one at a fair price. Please respond off
line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
Wouldn't clear get scuffed and scraped up no matter what, and start to look like
crap after awhile? If there is a clear product that can stand up to the abuse
without scuffing, then I'd also like to hear about it.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Von Alexander wrote:
>
> Listers;
>
> I have heard there is a clear non-slip coating that is sprayed on, and
> can be used for the wing walk in place of the black sandpaper stuff.
> Does anyone know where to get this or the brand name? Or do they make a
> clear tape for this purpose?
>
> Von Alexander
> RV-8 N41VA(at)juno.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Fairing |
> Wish I'd been smart enough to ask this question before pop rivetting
> mine Bob. Now if I have to adjust the horizontal stab incidence I'll
> be grinding material off with Dremel or file. Still, it will be minor
> compared with patching the top fairing to fit again.
I've always wondered -- how do you know if you need to adjust the H-stab
incidence? Is this discussed in the flight testing section of the manual?
I agree about the aluminum fairing strips. I'm a lot more concerned
about possibly having to modify the fiberglass intersection fairing than
having to drill out or even re-make a couple of little AL strips.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Type-S Vs. Standard Cowl |
> Has anyone had experiences with both types of cowls? What is the
> advantages, and which one is the easiest to install?
The S cowl is just plain better. Holds its shape better after being
pulled from the mold so when you put the halves together you can be
pretty sure they will match up -- not always so with the old cowl. The
oil door recess is molded in and an oil door is provided, which saves
you some time. Scoop recess also molded in, making it easier to fair in
the scoop. No gel-coat which is difficult to sand and tends to crack in
the corners. Stiffer, lighter. Also your wallet will be lighter,
saving more weight ;-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Empenage Fairing |
Randall,
Beats me. I'm optimistic. I believe that if all the individual parts are
built correctly, and the engine and prop are the ones that are recommended,
then the angle of incidence of the horizontal stab will be correct. I don't
expect to change it.
Bob
San Antonio
RV-6; fiberglass parts
I've always wondered -- how do you know if you need to adjust the
H-stab
incidence? Is this discussed in the flight testing section of the
manual?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
von,
home depot it's called shark skin, comes in a 1 quart can and is a very fine
white powder that turns clear when mixed with paint.
hope this helps
scott
winging it in tampa
wings looking like wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland brakes |
Listers,
I just got off the phone with Van's to find out if I could purchase my
fuselage kit minus the Cleveland brake calipers. I just received a set
off of a Tomahawk and they are the same part # (30-9). Van's told me
that the calipers come from Cleveland in a kit with the wheels and
rotors and can not be deleted separately. All or nothing.
At any rate, I will sell the set for $75. Contact me off list.
Rich Zeidman
RV6a SN 25224
waiting for fuse
richard.zeidman(at)phl.boeing.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
I have seen clear tape. Over time it becomes yellow from age and dirt and
looks bad.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
<< I have heard there is a clear non-slip coating that is sprayed on, and
can be used for the wing walk in place of the black sandpaper stuff.
Does anyone know where to get this or the brand name? Or do they make a
clear tape for this purpose? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Fairing |
In a message dated 9/16/98 1:54:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, randall(at)edt.com
writes:
<< I've always wondered -- how do you know if you need to adjust the H-stab
incidence? Is this discussed in the flight testing section of the manual? >>
While in-flight (straight & level, trimmed for cruise) look back at the tail
of the aircraft. If the elevator horn is above or below the HS this can be
trimmed-out by adjusting the HS. My elevator horn is about 1/4 inch above the
HS, not enough to trim-out (in my opinion).
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
Moe Colontonio wrote:
>
>
> Wouldn't clear get scuffed and scraped up no matter what, and start to look like
> crap after awhile? If there is a clear product that can stand up to the abuse
> without scuffing, then I'd also like to hear about it.
I applied a clear no skid tape after my plane was painted. It showed
dirt and footprints very quickly that no amount of scrubbing could
remove. Finally peeled it off and put on black tape. Looks brand new
after 25 hours.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
<http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/tailwheel/>
<http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacBooze(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elec trim installation |
Joe,
Had the same problem that youre having with the Mac servo. The Z brackets
are mis-labeled L&R. (on brackets vs plans) Took me awhile to figure this out
but you must trim the brackets to fit the servo and fit to the cover plate.
Once trimed the servo fits OK but one problem remained for me. The jack screw
is too long to fit into the recpticle. Seems the only solution is to hook up
the entire system to a 12v battery and run the screw back. Then the servo will
fit up into the recepticle. Havent done this yet.
Hope this helps,
Greg
-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
<< I have heard there is a clear non-slip coating that is sprayed on, and
can be used for the wing walk in place of the black sandpaper stuff.
Does anyone know where to get this or the brand name? Or do they make a
clear tape for this purpose? >>
Check into the stuff that can be srpayed into a truck bed as a liner- many
colors and textures, and the stuff is really tough!
Check six!
Mark
ng the Rockets, it wasn't really clear if the setting
on the prototype would be correct in the field (turns out it is). I researched
this, and I found that you move your stab leading edge 1/2 of the displacement
of the elev counterweights, and in the same direction. Do this measurement at
your desired speed and loading condition (solo & fast, dual w/ lotsa bags for
On our RV types, any change in the h stab will also affect the v stab rear
spar/ rudder alignment. Not good. It takes a bit of fussing to get that back
in line.
And then, that nifty fairing back there doesn't fit anymore either. Ugh- more
'glass work.
I adjusted a fellow's Rocket stab for him ( it had been installed to the -4
specs), and he reported a 12 MPH increase! Let's say he was half right (pilots
sometimes... embellish. Not me!), but 6 MPH is still enough to put up with the
fuss of the procedure. In this case, the LE of the stab needed raising 1/4" or
so.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Evans" <gslhqtn(at)es.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
Yes there is a product available - a clear adhesive anti-skid tape that
sticks like shit to a blanket and remains looking good for several years. I
think the product is manufactured by 3M... there is a RV-6 here in NZ that
has had it on the wing for about 5 years now.... and while it does show the
dirt a wee bit, it does seem to wash up well.
I'll see if I can find a retail outlet for you.
Cheerz,
Mike Evans
>> Listers;
>>
>> I have heard there is a clear non-slip coating that is sprayed on, and
>> can be used for the wing walk in place of the black sandpaper stuff.
>> Does anyone know where to get this or the brand name? Or do they make a
>> clear tape for this purpose?
>>
>> Von Alexander
>> RV-8 N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage Fairing |
<< I'm optimistic. I believe that if all the individual parts are
built correctly, and the engine and prop are the ones that are recommended,
then the angle of incidence of the horizontal stab will be correct. I don't
expect to change it. >>
I wouldn't bet money on it, Bob. My 6A was built exactly per plans just as
you say, with O-360 at zero degrees thrust line incidence, c/s prop, wing
incidence at 1 degree and all cg calculations in the nominal band. Mine
needed a 0.250" thk spacer under the HS front spar, instead of the plans
indicated 0.125" thk spacer (for a change of about 0.6 degrees). It's still
not perfect in a variety of loading conditions, needing a bit of down trim in
75% power cruise flight. I've heard of others with the same situation. When
I come back on the power it's just about right. I believe the design would
benefit from a little negative thrust line incidence, which I intend to try
someday.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
Randolph makes a wing walk paint that is brushed on. Grit in the paint
would make it hard on the sprayer.
-----Original Message-----
From: Von Alexander <n41va(at)Juno.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 1:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Non-Slip Coating
>
>Listers;
>
>I have heard there is a clear non-slip coating that is sprayed on, and
>can be used for the wing walk in place of the black sandpaper stuff.
>Does anyone know where to get this or the brand name? Or do they make a
>clear tape for this purpose?
>
>Von Alexander
>RV-8 N41VA(at)juno.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
| Subject: | Empennage Fairing |
GV,
Like I said, I'm optimistic by nature.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com [SMTP:Vanremog(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 3:32 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Empennage Fairing
writes:
built correctly, and the engine and prop are the ones that are
recommended,
then the angle of incidence of the horizontal stab will be correct.
I don't
expect to change it. >>
I wouldn't bet money on it, Bob.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBusick505(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage Fairing-Wing Incident |
<< Mine
needed a 0.250" thk spacer under the HS front spar, instead of the plans
indicated 0.125" thk spacer (for a change of about 0.6 degrees). It's still
not perfect in a variety of loading conditions, needing a bit of down trim in
75% power cruise flight. I've heard of others with the same situation. When
I come back on the power it's just about right. I believe the design would
benefit from a little negative thrust line incidence, which I intend to try
someday. >>
I have seen some RV-6s were the wing incident angle was changed to solve this
problem. They also reported some speed increase over a stock RV. Don't know
how you can scientifically measure this, but the claim sounds good if you are
an optimistic type. Of course you have to do this during construction, and
once it is done you are stuck with it.
Bob Busick
RV-6
Fremont CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Robbins" <robm(at)am2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
Very good quality non-skid is available, clear also, in many colors from
skate board and surf board shops. Costs a bit more than the hardware store
variety but worth it.
>I have heard there is a clear non-slip coating that is sprayed on, and
>can be used for the wing walk in place of the black sandpaper stuff.
>Does anyone know where to get this or the brand name? Or do they make a
>clear tape for this purpose?
>
>Von Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Fuel Tanks |
I found and A&P doing RV fuel tanks.Price was $850.00 ea. Does a good
job, no leaks.If someone needs his service call 502-745-0081 after 6:00 pm
He says 5 day turn around.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
>
>I looked at some muffler disigns for autos - seems there are some with a
good chance of failing in a mode that would severly restrict the exhaust
>and hence, the power. All aircraft muffs seem to avoid this.
>
>Does anyone know about the importance of this?
Having had a muffler fail in flight and partially block the exhaust I can
safely say that I would consider this to be rather important. It sure as
heck got my attention.
The straight pipes work just fine and no one has complained about the noise
yet.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Fairing |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
><< I've always wondered -- how do you know if you need to adjust the
>H-stab
> incidence? Is this discussed in the flight testing section of the
>manual? >>
>
>While in-flight (straight & level, trimmed for cruise) look back at
>the tail
>of the aircraft. If the elevator horn is above or below the HS this
>can be
>trimmed-out by adjusting the HS. My elevator horn is about 1/4 inch
>above the
>HS, not enough to trim-out (in my opinion).
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
>
>
In the past when Van has written articles on trimming, he has said that
he felt optimum pitch trim was with a small amount (usually between a
1/16" and an 1/8" of the elevator balance arm showing above the stab) of
down elevator required in cruise.
On page 291/292 of 18 years of the RVator Van describes the interaction
between wing incidence and horizontal stab.
He mentions that trimming for zero elevator input at cruise would give a
small benefit in cruise speed at the expense of pitch stability.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Fairing |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
><< I've always wondered -- how do you know if you need to adjust the
>H-stab
> incidence? Is this discussed in the flight testing section of the
>manual? >>
>
>While in-flight (straight & level, trimmed for cruise) look back at
>the tail
>of the aircraft. If the elevator horn is above or below the HS this
>can be
>trimmed-out by adjusting the HS. My elevator horn is about 1/4 inch
>above the
>HS, not enough to trim-out (in my opinion).
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
>
>
In the past when Van has written articles on trimming, he has said that
he felt optimum pitch trim was with a small amount (usually between a
1/16" and an 1/8" of the elevator balance arm showing above the stab) of
down elevator required in cruise.
On page 291/292 of 18 years of the RVator Van describes the interaction
between wing incidence and horizontal stab.
He mentions that trimming for zero elevator input at cruise would give a
small benefit in cruise speed at the expense of pitch stability.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
Von Alexander wrote:
>
> Listers;
>
> I have heard there is a clear non-slip coating that is sprayed on, and
> can be used for the wing walk in place of the black sandpaper stuff.
> Does anyone know where to get this or the brand name? Or do they make a
> clear tape for this purpose?
>
understand, one major source of favorable comments on my plane is the wing walk
area. I used the Van's optional ones with the airplane type on it "RV6A". It
is just the right size so you can tell the passenger to on ly step on something
black, and it is non skid but quite washable. It is a 3M product I believe. Of
course this is a matter of taste and opinion but in this case it is an
overwhelming favorite of the spectators and passengers. Look them over!
D Walsh. 300 hours now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Type-S Vs. Standard Cowl |
Paul, I fitted a gel coated polyester type cowl on my first -6A and a type S
epoxy cowl on my present -6A. I completely finished the gel coat type but
have not done all of the needed additional glasswork, filling, priming and
painting to finish the type S yet. Most of my comments are in the archives.
I think there is some room for argument about which is better. IMO, it
depends on your considerations for weight, cost, amount of time (work)
required to finish each and the end result you want to achieve.
The standard cowl so far appears to be easiest to get a good quality finish
on, in spite of its shrinkage/warpage around the spinner area and the
cracking/removal problems of the gel coat there. The type S is full of
pinholes all over (check out the RV-9 cowl finish) and many voids, etc. in
the non-core area (around the oil dip stick access door particularly). This
will require a lot of effort to get a quality finish. Also, while the scoop
recess is molded in and probably easier to fair in, that also limits much
movement of the scoop to mate up to the carb air box, if needed. The molded
in side lap joint is also nice if you use other than hinges, otherwise it is
another work step to remove it. If you plan to use screws or camlocs on the
rear of the top, you will need to cut into the foam core area and re-seal it
with fiberglass because the core extends too far rearward to allow much of a
shelf to extend out to mount the platenuts on and give the required edge
distance on the top. I don't know how much lighter the type S will be when
finished as I think it will take quite a bit of material (weight) to seal
and finish it. I plan to seal it inside as well as out to keep it from
absorbing oil, fuel, dirt, etc. which is probably impossible to remove once
it's into the core material.
What I'm saying is, like Ken stated in the RVator, that all is not bliss
with the type S cowl. It does have the attractive pluses such as less
weight, more rigid, no shrinking (even in storage), and easier and better
fitting. Do these things make up for the difference in cost and the
negatives? Good question. I've got what I've got, but I'm not sure that
I'd spend the extra money for it again. Of course, when it is all finished
and flying, I may have a different opinion!
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Has anyone had experiences with both types of cowls? What is the
>advantages, and which one is the easiest to install?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
>Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Ralph,
No one seems to be answering, so I will jump in.
The people who have used Warren Gretz's pitot tube mounts have been
very happy with the product and the service. Using the AN5814-1
pitot tube with static source will certainly clean up the look of the
rear fuselage, and simplify the static tube routing.
But, nothing in life is free. Van's original design, although ugly,
seems to have been proven to work well. An ideal static source would
sense ambient pressure. The pressure around a wing, by design, is
higher than ambient on the bottom. This is where the lift comes
from. So, putting a static source near a wing implies some altitude
and airspeed error, unless the static source causes the flow to
accelerate in some fashion to compensate for the higher local
pressure.
I am not sure how much the error in the static source would be. A
lot of people have used the AN5814-1 pitot tube and have been happy.
I suspect that many of them have not done an accurate airspeed error
check. A small to medium airspeed error (it will read too low) is of
little consequence. A small to medium altitude error (it will read
too low) might be important if you plan to fly IFR, but should not be
a big deal VFR.
It all comes down to what is more important to you - how well your
aircraft looks, or how accurate the airspeed and altitude indications
are.
I have ordered a mount for the AN5812 pitot tube without static
source. I plan on using Van's ugly rivet on the rear fuselage.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
>I was considering using Gretz Aero's AN5814-1 Pitot Tube with Satic
>Source. This would prevent the ugly rivet problem that other threads
>have described. I know that I'm a long way from needing this gear
>right now - but Santa is asking what to get me for Christmas!
>Any comments from someone that is using this part would be appreciated!
>
>Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Non-Slip Coating |
There is a black gritty paint which is made specifically for this
purpose. I don't remember what it is called but I'm sure its available
from Spruce and probably also from boat stores.
You can tape up your wing for the pattern that you want and then just
brush it on. it's clean, it looks good, and it lasts. One quart of the
stuff would probably do the wings of at least a dozen RVs
Andy Gold
RV-ation Bookstore
http://www.rvbookstore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: h stab adjusting |
<< I adjusted a fellow's Rocket stab for him ( it had been installed to the -4
specs), and he reported a 12 MPH increase! Let's say he was half right
(pilots
sometimes... embellish. Not me!), but 6 MPH is still enough to put up with
the
fuss of the procedure. In this case, the LE of the stab needed raising 1/4"
or
so. >>
I haven't heard from the "unofficial factory source" yet on this subject, but
the important thing for pitch stability is the angle between the incidence of
the wing and the incidence of the horizontal. It will generally go faster if
you are willing to accept less pitch stability. I would be very careful
changing the difference between these two angles. It is ok to change the
incidence of the wing relative to the fuselage to get the rear spar to align
with the bottom of the fuselage provided you change the incidence angle of the
horizontal by the same number of degrees. Per Tom Green it may go a little
faster or a little slower, but you will not upset the baseline pitch
stability.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elec trim installation |
Joe, I had the same problem. I will send you an E-Mail messsage.
Rollie
RV6A waiting for Wing stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Blah ba Blah wrote:
>
> Hello; I have been trying to find information on concial versus
> dynofocial engine mounts. I couldn't find much information in the
> archives . I know everyone has a opinion, but I would like to hear from
> people who have actual experience in RVs with both type of mounts. I am
> only concerned with the vibration and what it will do to the airframe. It
> seems to be easier to find used engines that are conical mounts, because
> they are older? Any help would be appreicated. David Ahrens RV-6A
> Fuselage.
OK, here's mine.
I'm flying a -4 with O320 conical, & used to fly a Swift with an IO360 dynofocal.
I wouldn't turn down a dynofocal, but if I had to pay extra, I'd rather spend $200
on an electronic prop balance job. I don't see it hurting the airframe, & face
it,
a 4 cyl. engine is going to shake.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Elec trim installation |
>Secondly, my "Z-brackets" to support the trim servo dont look like I can
>mount them as shown in the pictures.
The drawings show the brackets for the trim servo reversed. Had the same
problem myself and had to redo them. The fit is tight but just needs
patience. There is a hole in the elevator spar for the wire run so you
can do it much later in the project.
Bill Pagan
80555 - waiting on the fuselage
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Airspeed Calibration |
There has been much talk about airspeed calibration (pitot/static position
errors) and various methods to accomplish this, and whether or not the
particular method works. I found a program which uses a technique that has
been designed to utilize GPS for the data and has been proven to be
reasonably accurate against a trailing bomb. Now with any GPS (even a
handheld) good stable air, and the airspeed indicator calibration you can
get good data without flying low, using a measured course, or being a math
wizard. I won't discuss the technique further here, but the program, or if
you like a spreadsheet, and a paper discussing the technique are available
from the National Test Pilot School at http://www.ntps.com/sftware.htm
The download is free, and the technique is FAA accepted.
Dan Morris
RV6 23077 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: h stab adjusting |
This thread has proven interesting. I have had about 1/4" up showing on my
elevator arms, and I have often thought about adding a small shim. As for
instability, isn't it the job of the HS to provide downforce to balance the
longitudinal axis of the airplane? If the elevator has to be trimmed down,
isn't the HS providing too much downforce? So too much downforce = excess
drag, and extra down elevator (providing "upforce" to balance excess
downforce of HS) = more drag, I would think. If you trimmed the HS so the
elevator was flush, you would still have the necessary equilibrium - or am I
missing something?
Also, to GV - you mentioned using .250", how much "up" on the counter arms
were you trimming out, and where are they now?
BTW, to anyone interested - my website is finally back up, and I'll be
posting new travel photo's soon.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)mci2000.com
http://home.mci2000.com/~ebundy@mci2000.com/
>the important thing for pitch stability is the angle between the incidence
of
>the wing and the incidence of the horizontal. It will generally go faster
if
>you are willing to accept less pitch stability. I would be very careful
>changing the difference between these two angles. It is ok to change the
>incidence of the wing relative to the fuselage to get the rear spar to
align
>with the bottom of the fuselage provided you change the incidence angle of
the
>horizontal by the same number of degrees. Per Tom Green it may go a little
>faster or a little slower, but you will not upset the baseline pitch
>stability.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Primers (For Fuel!) |
Are most builders putting in a lockable type primer in their planes, or an
electric one?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DWAIN L. HARRIS" <102617.2606(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fourth Annual Copperstate Dash |
Hey Walt
I'm heading out thursday for Reno ( real air racing) . See you at
the hanger next week for the Golden West Fly-in .
Dwain
RV-6
N164DH
Hotel Squadron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elec trim installation |
>
> Seems the only solution is to hook up
>the entire system to a 12v battery and run the screw back. Then the servo
will
>fit up into the recepticle. Havent done this yet.
>Hope this helps,
>Greg
Greg, A 9 volt battery from any store will run your servo back and forth as
much as you want, just a little slower than a 12 volt battery.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ USA
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: h stab adjusting |
<< Also, to GV - you mentioned using .250", how much "up" on the counter arms
were you trimming out, and where are they now? >>
Ed-
The additional .125" lift in my HS front spar reduced my elev counterbalance
rise in cruise from about 3/8" to about 1/8", so I think Mark (Check Six!) is
spot on.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <msdavidson(at)altavista.net (HELO yybecker.ca)> |
I saw your listing on the internet. I work for a company
that submits websites to search engines. We can submit
your website to over 350 of the worlds best search engines
and directories for a one time charge of only $39.95!
If you would like to put your website in the fast lane
and receive more hits, call me on our toll-free number
listed below.
All work is verified!
Sincerely,
Mike Davidson
(800) 484-2621 X5568
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Fairing |
Now I'm interested. I understand the argument, but if this was so,
how would an all flying stabiliser maintain pitch stability? Isn't it
more to do with CG, centre of lift and how much negative lift is
provided by the stab? Using elevator to get this negative lift just
increases drag. Getting the same negative lift with a clean trailing
elevator with different incidence will be more efficient and just as
stable. Yes? No?
Peter Bennett
RV6 Firewall forward
> In the past when Van has written articles on trimming, he has said
> that he felt optimum pitch trim was with a small amount (usually
> between a 1/16" and an 1/8" of the elevator balance arm showing
> above the stab) of down elevator required in cruise. On page 291/292
> of 18 years of the RVator Van describes the interaction between wing
> incidence and horizontal stab. He mentions that trimming for zero
> elevator input at cruise would give a small benefit in cruise speed
> at the expense of pitch stability.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> These opinions and ideas are my own
> and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
> of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <kage(at)idl.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re:RV8 adjustable rear seat rudder pedals |
Listers,
Has anyone tried fitting the adjustable rear seat rudder pedals for an RV8
into a RV4. It seems to be a better design, and looks as though it would
work OK. Any thoughts or comments
Ken Glover - Newcastle Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: h stab adjusting |
>
>I haven't heard from the "unofficial factory source" yet on this subject, but
>the important thing for pitch stability is the angle between the incidence of
>the wing and the incidence of the horizontal. It will generally go faster if
>you are willing to accept less pitch stability. I would be very careful
>changing the difference between these two angles. It is ok to change the
>incidence of the wing relative to the fuselage to get the rear spar to align
>with the bottom of the fuselage provided you change the incidence angle of the
>horizontal by the same number of degrees. Per Tom Green it may go a little
>faster or a little slower, but you will not upset the baseline pitch
>stability.
No offence to the poster, but there is some bad info here. I spent a
year studying this stuff at test pilot school, and have been doing
flight testing for over 10 years.
Changing the angle between the incidence of the wing and the
incidence of the horizontal stab will not affect stability. Note that
lots of aircraft change the horizontal stab incidence as the means of
pitch trim.
Changing HS incidence will affect the amount of elevator deflection
at any given point in the envelope, and thus the drag will be
affected. It will affect the amount of pitch authority available at
full nose up and full nose down stick, but I believe that there is
lots of margin in those areas.
Pitch stability is affected by such things as center of gravity
location, distance from wing to horizontal tail, size of wing and
horizontal tail, choice of airfoil, flap position, amount of power,
etc. The only variables that we really have control over are center
of gravity (forward is good, aft is bad) and amount of power (more
power equals less stablity, but the effect is fairly small).
So, don't worry about changing the incidence of your horizontal stab.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 80427 (wings)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Engineering Test Pilot (613) 952-4319 (work)
Transport Canada
Ottawa, Canada http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roy Vosberg <rvos(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Flight suits and LARGE lakes |
I have also been wondering about crossing large inhospitable bodies of water.
If you had to ditch at sea especially during the winter months, you only have
a couple of minutes to perform any life saving acts, and only a few more minutes
before being overcome by death (with or without a life jacket). I plan to
cross Lake Michigan and Lake Superior in the future and thought about a scuba
diving dry suit as my flight suit. It might give you hours instead of minutes,
or at least time for the Coast Guard helo to arrive. What do people like the
Coast Guard or other professional over-water aviators wear?
Roy Vosberg
RV6 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight suits and LARGE lakes |
Roy,
Your dry suit will give you protection for many hours or days. (depending
on the temps of the water). To take it a step further have a small tank of
argon to inflate it and it will help even longer. (Argon does not conduct
heat well.) Another must for a successful ditching under these conditions
is to have a good thick neoprene hood and gloves to keep your head and
hands from losing too much heat. A survival suit is much like a SCUBA dry
suit but the zipper doesn't have to take the pressures of a dry suit, so
actually your dry suit is better in some respects. (Although not designed
for this purpose like a survival suit is.) Don't forget it's the dry suit
underwear that determines how much insulation your suit will provide and
you have to wear it during the flight. If it is at all a warm day you may
wish your engine quits over cold water! AL (Former SCUBA
instructor)
>
>I have also been wondering about crossing large inhospitable bodies of
water. If you had to ditch at sea especially during the winter months, you
only have a couple of minutes to perform any life saving acts, and only a
few more minutes before being overcome by death (with or without a life
jacket). I plan to cross Lake Michigan and Lake Superior in the future and
thought about a scuba diving dry suit as my flight suit. It might give you
hours instead of minutes, or at least time for the Coast Guard helo to
arrive. What do people like the Coast Guard or other professional
over-water aviators wear?
>
>Roy Vosberg
>RV6 emp
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing fuel tanks |
I found and A&P doing RV fuel tanks. Price was 850.00 ea. Does a good
job,no leaks. If someone needs his service,call 502-745-0081 or 502-745-0081
RV-6 N7470U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Calibration |
> I won't discuss the technique further here, but the program, or if
> you like a spreadsheet, and a paper discussing the technique are available
> from the National Test Pilot School at http://www.ntps.com/sftware.htm
>
> Dan Morris
>
Dan,
I would be interested in your comments regarding another technique, I
have pdf and Excel spreadsheet on my home page.
http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roth Klaus <Klaus.Roth(at)med.siemens.de> |
| Subject: | retractable gear |
Hello builders,
I am a RV-4 builder and flyer in Germany and because I am
looking for a new project, I am thinking about to build
a RV-4 with retractable gear.
Some month ago I saw a picture of such a bird, but
can not remeber where.
Does anyone know the name and the address of this builder ??
Any support is greately appreciated.
Best regards
Klaus Roth, Germany
RV-4, D-ERKR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Besing, Paul" <PBesing(at)pinacor.com> |
Any listers that are coming to copperstate please reply off-list...I will be
working the event and would like to meet up with some of you..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: h stab adjusting |
Kevin said:
> Pitch stability is affected by such things as center of gravity
> location, distance from wing to horizontal tail, size of wing and
> horizontal tail, choice of airfoil, flap position, amount of power,
> etc. The only variables that we really have control over are center
> of gravity (forward is good, aft is bad) and amount of power (more
> power equals less stablity, but the effect is fairly small).
>
> So, don't worry about changing the incidence of your horizontal stab.
IMO for all the reasons kevin mentioned above, the designer
(Van) would need to be consulted with, to make a safe decision
on this stability issue. Remember all these parameters listed
above are a compromise for the RV for its intended mission.
Therefore some of the stability inputs (such as distance from
wing to horizontal stabilizer and airfoil) may not be optimum
under all flight conditions, hence a little elevator
deflection at cruise speed may help to balance out other
undesirable stability modes at different airspeeds. By
reducing the distance from wing to horizontal stabilizer or
selecting the particular airfoil he did for the RV series, Van
may have already given us an extra 10mph over a more stable
design.
Mike Mckenna (mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net)
RV8 (wings)
Lawrenceville, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Drumm <jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com> |
While working on my right elevator, I ran out of stiffner angle because I
re-did some on my rudder. I am short just enough stiffner for the last,
smallest one on one side only. I do have some scrap angle left over from
earlier mistakes with the rudder (cut too short) and was wondering if I
could use these for the elevator. The only problem is I have holes
drilled in them. The orientation of the left over scrap is different from
the stiffners in the elevator, so the holes would be on the "up and down"
part of the stiffner, i.e. as some one mentioned, lightening holes in my
stiffner. My question was would it be OK to use this for the last
stiffner? There are about four #40 holes 1.5" apart. Would this weaken
the stiffner much? I would have no problem ordering new stiffner from
Vans, but I'm currently in Norway and after $100 in shipping and 23%
import tax, $10 of angle quickly costs me $135. I did place an order a few
days ago, but that was before I realized this.
Thanks for the help
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV Grin Department |
Today at 1155Z RV6A N526W built by Robert Burk of Milford Connecticut made
its' maiden flight from Sikorsky Memorial Airport (BridgeportmAirport BDR)
in Stratford, Connecticut.
The flight lasted a planned thirty minutes. All temperatures and pressures
were within limits and the aircraft flew hands off.
This RV6A has a Lycoming 180 HP with an Ellison Throttel Body and a Prince
propeller. Performance numbers are not available at this time, other than as
published by Van's.
The pilot for this flight was David Faile
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p
faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 n44df started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com> |
Joe-
You should be able to make some stiffener angle out of the .025 material
in the
trim bundle. Shear it and bend the 90 degree angle with the same bend
radius. If you don't have the tools, you should be able to find a local
machine shop that will help you.
Rich Zeidman
RV6A
finishing wings
> ----------
> From: Joe Drumm[SMTP:jdrumm(at)dgs.dgsys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 11:17 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: Stiffners
>
>
>
> While working on my right elevator, I ran out of stiffner angle
> because I
> re-did some on my rudder. I am short just enough stiffner for the
> last,
> smallest one on one side only. I do have some scrap angle left over
> from
> earlier mistakes with the rudder (cut too short) and was wondering if
> I
> could use these for the elevator. The only problem is I have holes
> drilled in them. The orientation of the left over scrap is different
> from
> the stiffners in the elevator, so the holes would be on the "up and
> down"
> part of the stiffner, i.e. as some one mentioned, lightening holes in
> my
> stiffner. My question was would it be OK to use this for the last
> stiffner? There are about four #40 holes 1.5" apart. Would this
> weaken
> the stiffner much? I would have no problem ordering new stiffner from
> Vans, but I'm currently in Norway and after $100 in shipping and 23%
> import tax, $10 of angle quickly costs me $135. I did place an order a
> few
> days ago, but that was before I realized this.
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: h stab adjusting |
<< No offence to the poster, but there is some bad info here. I spent a
year studying this stuff at test pilot school, and have been doing
flight testing for over 10 years.
Changing the angle between the incidence of the wing and the
incidence of the horizontal stab will not affect stability. Note that
lots of aircraft change the horizontal stab incidence as the means of
pitch trim. >>
Hi Kevin,
I can top that, I taught at the USAF test pilot school:>). On the other hand
it was propulsion so I not absolutely positive about what I said here without
researching it. If my memory serves me right, the stick free pitch stability
is certainly a function of the horozontal stab and when Tom Green said it, it
kinda of reinforced what I thought I remembered from my aero way back in
engineering school. So with that, I would not change it without doing some
more research.
Bernie Kerr, 6A fuselage in canoe stage, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing fuel tanks |
I FOUND AND A&P DOING RV FUEL TANKS,PRICE WAS 850.00EA.
IF ANYONE NEEDS HIS SERVICE CALL 502-745-0081 OR 502-843-8621
N7470U KEN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Hi,
Small holes like your #40's an inch and a half apart won't have any effect on
the strength of the stiffener. In fact, the holes could probably be 1/3 the
width of the material.
hal
> While working on my right elevator, I ran out of stiffner angle because I
> re-did some on my rudder. I am short just enough stiffner for the last,
> smallest one on one side only.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lloyd <brian(at)lcp.livingston.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight suits and LARGE lakes |
tt.net>
>
>What do people like the Coast Guard or other professional over-water
aviators wear?
Most ferry pilots wear water survival suits that were originally developed
for people working on oil drilling platforms. The water survival suit is
like a one-piece wet suit. Supposedly they will keep a person alive for 24
hrs while immersed in freezing water and supposedly will keep them alive
indefinitely if they manage to make it into a liferaft.
I wear one when I do Atlantic crossings. For comfort reasons I don the
lower half but leave my shoulders and arms out. I leave the rest of the
suit draped over the back of the seat. I figure that, if I lose an engine,
I have 7-10 minutes to don the rest of the suit (a 15 second job), yell for
help, and prepare for the ditching.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lcp.livingston.com 3461 Robin Lane, Suite 1
http://www.livingston.com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.530.676.6399 - voice +1.530.676.3442 - fax O-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Joe:
My humble opinion is that you should have no problem using the scrap as you
descibed. Just deburr all the holes that you are not using and forge ahead.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Wing Spars (Still!!)
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Thursday, September 17, 1998 12:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Stiffners
>
>
>
>While working on my right elevator, I ran out of stiffner angle because I
>re-did some on my rudder. I am short just enough stiffner for the last,
>smallest one on one side only. I do have some scrap angle left over from
>earlier mistakes with the rudder (cut too short) and was wondering if I
>could use these for the elevator. The only problem is I have holes
>drilled in them. The orientation of the left over scrap is different from
>the stiffners in the elevator, so the holes would be on the "up and down"
>part of the stiffner, i.e. as some one mentioned, lightening holes in my
>stiffner. My question was would it be OK to use this for the last
>stiffner? There are about four #40 holes 1.5" apart. Would this weaken
>the stiffner much? I would have no problem ordering new stiffner from
>Vans, but I'm currently in Norway and after $100 in shipping and 23%
>import tax, $10 of angle quickly costs me $135. I did place an order a few
>days ago, but that was before I realized this.
>
>Thanks for the help
>
>Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
My vote is to use the stiffener stock that you have on hand. The holes
should not affect strength at all.
Steve Soule
(not and engineer by a long shot)
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
While working on my right elevator, I ran out of
stiffner angle because I
re-did some on my rudder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert D. Cabe" <robert.cabe(at)usaa.com> |
Agree 100%. I've done it many times.
Bob
San Antonio
RV-6 finish details
My vote is to use the stiffener stock that you have on hand. The
holes
should not affect strength at all.
Steve Soule
(not and engineer by a long shot)
Huntington, Vermont
While working on my right elevator, I ran out of
stiffner angle because I
re-did some on my rudder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elec trim installation |
Radio Shack sells a very neat battery holder that will hold enough AA
batteries to provide 12 volts to check things like lights, run servos, etc.
It uses a 9 Volt type snap fitting to provide wires to hook it up. I find it
very handy when needing to operate something for test purposes or to adjust
the trim rod.
Jim Cone
RV-6A QB on the way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight suits and LARGE lakes |
In the Coast Guard we use an aviation dry suit made by Switlik Parachute CO. (609)
587-3300. They are not fun to wear and even though we have air conditioning
in the HH-65 on a sunny day they are very uncomfortable. I can imagine that
with the glass area of the RV canopy they would be very warm. You'll also need
to get a dry suit liner, we -use ones from USIA $120.00 ea (800) 247-8070.
USIA makes the dry suits that the boat crews wear and they are a whole lot
cheaper.
Priot to the issue of the dry suits we wore MAC-10 aviation coveralls made by Mustang
Engineered Apparel (360) 676-1782. I think that they run about $475 and
are much more comfortable and easier to get into than the dry suits. We wear
blue colored suits because they supposedly will show up better in NVG.
Ray Murphy, JR.
RV-6A under construction
Roy Vosberg wrote:
> I plan to cross Lake Michigan and Lake Superior in the future and thought about
a scuba diving dry suit as my flight suit. It might give you hours instead
of minutes, or at least time for the Coast Guard helo to arrive. What do people
like the Coast Guard or other professional over-water aviators wear?
>
> Roy Vosberg
> RV6 emp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
Find a local scrap yard, and you can probably buy the material there. I got so
tired of
buying replacement parts (I screw up alot) and paying twice the parts value in
shipping,
that I started making some of the simple parts myself. Look on the plans for the
type of
aluminum and the size, and make sure you get extruded angle.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
> > While working on my right elevator, I ran out of stiffner angle
> > because I
> > re-did some on my rudder. I am short just enough stiffner for the
> > last,
> > smallest one on one side only. I do have some scrap angle left over
> > from
> > earlier mistakes with the rudder (cut too short) and was wondering if
> > I
> > could use these for the elevator. The only problem is I have holes
> > drilled in them. The orientation of the left over scrap is different
> > from
> > the stiffners in the elevator, so the holes would be on the "up and
> > down"
> > part of the stiffner, i.e. as some one mentioned, lightening holes in
> > my
> > stiffner. My question was would it be OK to use this for the last
> > stiffner? There are about four #40 holes 1.5" apart. Would this
> > weaken
> > the stiffner much? I would have no problem ordering new stiffner from
> > Vans, but I'm currently in Norway and after $100 in shipping and 23%
> > import tax, $10 of angle quickly costs me $135. I did place an order a
> > few
> > days ago, but that was before I realized this.
> >
> > Thanks for the help
> >
> > Joe
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken hoshowski <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: retractable gear |
Roth Klaus wrote:
>
> Hello builders,
> I am a RV-4 builder and flyer in Germany and because I am
> looking for a new project, I am thinking about to build
> a RV-4 with retractable gear
>
> Does anyone know the name and the address of this builder ??
>
> Klaus, this RV4 is for Sale. Builder is Bryan Carr phone
> 604-856-8247
Mailing Address is 25520 - 32nd. Ave
Aldergrove British Columbia
Canada V4W 1Y2
This is one very beautiful airplane. Bryan has built many RV's. The
most recent one an RV6A for his wife who has recently got here pilots
licence. He is currently working on an RV8.
Ken C-FKEH RV6 First flight Sept.8/93
Beautiful British Columbia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Kearns" <kearns(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | North Texas Wing of Van's Air Force |
There has been a new wing of Van's Air Force started in the North Texas
area. There are several projects and flying RV's in this part of the country
and the the wing will be used as a means to get local builders together to
aid in construction and answer questions on the local level. This is
strictly on informal gathering of builders/pilots who share the common
interest of RV's. We will also have several fly-ins/get-togethers througout
the year. Check out the website and respond if you would like to be on the
list for contact purposes.
Thanks,
Charlie Kearns
RV8 N113JK
kearns(at)gte.net
Here's the link: http://fohnix.metronet.com/~dreeves/vafntw.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flight suits and LARGE lakes |
Fly high enough to glide to shore. It is about 45 miles between Ludington and
Manitowoc. Assuming a 10 to 1 glide ratio, and you need to fly at 11,880 feet
agl to avoid the death zone. This should be easy for any RV. Of course it's
not quite that easy. You must consider wind to determine the middle of the lake.
Brian Eckstein
Made the trip several times
----------
>
>
> I have also been wondering about crossing large inhospitable bodies of water.
> If you had to ditch at sea especially during the winter months, you only have
> a couple of minutes to perform any life saving acts, and only a few more
> minutes before being overcome by death (with or without a life jacket). I
> plan to cross Lake Michigan and Lake Superior in the future and thought about
> a scuba diving dry suit as my flight suit. It might give you hours instead of
> minutes, or at least time for the Coast Guard helo to arrive. What do people
> like the Coast Guard or other professional over-water aviators wear?
>
> Roy Vosberg
> RV6 emp
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel tank sealer |
Just noticed the recommended sealer in the latest rvator. Super Koropon, made
by Courtalds Aerospace.
Anyone know where to buy it, and has anyone tried it, have comments? Is it
better than pro seal???
The article mentions kc aviation in Dallas, but no phone number or address.
hilljw(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: h stab adjusting |
>
><< No offence to the poster, but there is some bad info here. I spent a
> year studying this stuff at test pilot school, and have been doing
> flight testing for over 10 years.
>
> Changing the angle between the incidence of the wing and the
> incidence of the horizontal stab will not affect stability. Note that
> lots of aircraft change the horizontal stab incidence as the means of
> pitch trim. >>
>
>Hi Kevin,
>
>I can top that, I taught at the USAF test pilot school:>). On the other hand
>it was propulsion so I not absolutely positive about what I said here without
>researching it. If my memory serves me right, the stick free pitch stability
>is certainly a function of the horozontal stab and when Tom Green said it, it
>kinda of reinforced what I thought I remembered from my aero way back in
>engineering school. So with that, I would not change it without doing some
>more research.
>
>Bernie Kerr, 6A fuselage in canoe stage, SE Fla
Hi Bernie,
Hmm. You've got me thinking now. I have been wrong in the past, but
the last time was a few years ago ;-)
My test pilot school notes are at work - I won't be back there until
Monday, and I am supposed to go to Wichita for a couple of weeks
starting Tuesday.
I've got TPS notes from EPNER (where I went - French Air Force), ETPS
(RAF) and USAF TPS (Edwards). I propose that we take this off line,
review our notes, and try to come to some agreement. I'll do some
research next week and send justification for my position (or admit
that I am wrong) to you directly. Then we can post an agreed
response to the list in a week or so. OK?
When were you at TPS? When I was in the Canadian Forces I went there
several times to fly students in the Canadair Tutor (and once in the
Challenger). This would have been about 1989 - 1992.
Take care,
Kevin Horton
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
hortonk(at)tc.gc.ca (613) 952-4319 (work - Ottawa)
(316) 946-6813 (work - Wichita)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbirdman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Primers (For Fuel!) |
I used the electric solenoid for my primer. No additional fuel lines in the
cockpit. I wired it with a momentary "on" push button powered only when my
boost pump switch is on. A LED mounted above the pushbutton illuminates when
the button is pushed to act as a indicator if the button failed in the "on"
position. This way I would know if the engine was getting primed constantly.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6 N827GB
painted wings tonite, leaving the shop for the airport next week or so.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Main Wing Spar |
R.Hodgson wrote:
> Anyone out there done the RV-3 spar mod ? (Especially on wing without tank)
> 1 - Drilling out the long 1/8 rivets at the root end without the drill
> wandering off centre is difficult.
Start with a #40 drill, then increase size. It isnt all that difficult.
Just take it slow.
> for the new -8 style spar ?
> 2 - Any hints on setting the replacement 3/16 rivets in the spar with
> access only from the aft, lower side ?
Hoist the wing up above your shoulders horizontially (so you can stick
your head up between ribs), open skin down. Get a nice big (6 -9 lbs)
bucking bar, put it through the lightening holes, rest it on the lower
forward skin (piece of foam between skin and bar). Use a #4 or bigger
rivit gun. As an alternative, I guess you could weld some heavy jig that
could reach in, down, and back through the lightening holes, with the
wing placed vertically.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
I have seen many fiberglass wing tips with a lot of warpage. Some
say it comes from forcing the wing tip in place, not trimed properly. Other
have said not true, they will warp unless re-enforced. One fellow said he
put fiberglass re-enforcement strips from the leading edge to the trailing
edge, top and bottom. I noticed one RV-4 with four rows rivets running
cross wise from the wing to the tip, top and bottom.
What have you RVers that are flying found to be the problem and/or fix?
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 wing fairings
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
My question was would it be OK to use this for the last
>stiffner?
>
>Joe
>
>
Joe,
Go ahead, it will be fine.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
ch!!!
Thanks a bunch for pointing that out to the world Les :-)
I'm the one that did a good portion of the work on that airplane
including finishing the cowl.
In all fairness, that cowl was one of the first preproduction prototypes
which was done using honeycomb core and epoxy wet lay-up instead of
prepreg.
The type of pinholes this produced are nothing like what is in the Type S
cowl.
As you already mentioned the installation hours will probably be about
the same. Few hours required for installation, but more hours required
for prep. and finish.
A number of builders have had very good results using the Smooth Prime
process from Poly-fiber.
All of the good reasons for installing one have already been mentioned.
The only bad thing about them (other than the extra cost) is that if you
have an airplane that already is headed toward being a little tail heavy,
using an S cowl will only make it worse since it is about 1/3 less weight
than the standard cowl.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Main Wing Spar |
Re: item 2. You might want to double check with Van's, but I believe that
you might be able to substitute structural bolts for the rivets, if you have
enough access to install those instead. Just a little heavier and more
pricey. I did a repair on an assembled -6 wing and was told that it was
okay. The NAS ones can also be found that are progressively oversized.
That might help in an oversized hole situation which is not real uncommon to
be used on the pre-manufactured spars in the splice plate area.
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
>Anyone out there done the RV-3 spar mod ? (Especially on wing without tank)
>1 - Drilling out the long 1/8 rivets at the root end without the drill
>wandering off centre is difficult. If reaming out to the required 3/16
>doesn't clean up the holes OK, what then ? Scrap the whole wing and wait
>for the new -8 style spar ?
>2 - Any hints on setting the replacement 3/16 rivets in the spar with
>access only from the aft, lower side ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Retractable gear |
Chris Hinch writes: Do you know if his 8 is going to br retractable, or was
it a never again again project?
Chris, As far as I know this one will be stock!
Ken RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8/93
Beautiful British Columbia
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Main Wing Spar |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Anyone out there done the RV-3 spar mod ? (Especially on wing without
>tank)
I was involved in the first one that was done to proof out the
installation.
>1 - Drilling out the long 1/8 rivets at the root end without the drill
>wandering off centre is difficult. If reaming out to the required 3/16
>doesn't clean up the holes OK, what then ?
I don't really know. You would have contact engineering and get help
evaluating on a situation by situation basis.
Scrap the whole wing and
>wait
>for the new -8 style spar ?
>2 - Any hints on setting the replacement 3/16 rivets in the spar with
>access only from the aft, lower side ?
>
It is hoped that installers will use enough care in removing the 1/8"
rivets that they will have no problem cleaning up the holes to 3/16".
One way of removing an 1/8" rivet is to drill down the center using a
3/32" drill. After drilling, if it looks like you hit the center on the
opposite end you can then drill up to about a #35 drill. After this you
should be able to get the rivet out.
Then the hole can be drilled up to 3/16" following the process in the
instructions.
As for installing 3/16" rivets... unless I've forgotten something, I
believe all of the 3/16" holes get AN3 bolts, not rivets.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Partain" <aviator(at)tseinc.com> |
For Sale 1995 RV-4 185 TTSN , 0320 D1A 160 HP, 185TTSN , Hartzell C/S Prop
185 TTSN, K/N Air Filter, Stainless exhaust pipes with crossover . Single
heater muff. Carburetor heat. Alternator cooling tube, Magneto cooling
tubes, Piper oil cooler, Fuel primer.
Terra 760D Com ,Terra 250D xpdr ,Apollo 360 moving map GPS ,ELT , PSII 1000
intercom, Vertical card compass, Altimeter, VSI ,Electronics International
CHT EGT OAT , Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Amp/Volt meter, Electronic Tach,
Lighting on All instruments with dimmer switch.
Navigation Lights, Rear position light, Strobes on wing tips, Dual landing
Lights enclosed in wing tips, Electric Flaps, Locking canopy (keyed same as
ignition), Wood stick grip,
Cabin heat with front and rear outlets, Two fresh air vents located on
canopy skirt.
Professional Paint, White with Blue stripping, Interior panels light Grey
with medium Grey Leather seats
Temper foam, Dark Gray Carpet , Firewall
insulation ,CD player
This is a very nice plane, always kept in a hanger and professionally
maintained. All avionics purchased new November 1996 and installed
professionally.
All plans and instrument documentation. Complete Logs
Cruise 187 mph @ 8.5 gph
Annual due 8/98
$55,000.00
Price includes 8/98 annual (Inspection Complete)
Tony Partain
314-894-0828
Saint Louis MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Main Wing Spar |
SCOTT R MCDANIELS wrote:
> As for installing 3/16" rivets... unless I've forgotten something, I
> believe all of the 3/16" holes get AN3 bolts, not rivets.
Lower spar cap gets rivits, upper with angles get bolts.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Primers (For Fuel!) |
Where did you get your primer? I looked in all the catalogs that I have,
even aircraft spruce, and can't find one anywhere...
Thanks..
Paul
>
>I used the electric solenoid for my primer. No additional fuel lines in the
>cockpit. I wired it with a momentary "on" push button powered only when my
>boost pump switch is on. A LED mounted above the pushbutton illuminates when
>the button is pushed to act as a indicator if the button failed in the "on"
>position. This way I would know if the engine was getting primed constantly.
>
>Gary Bray
>Carmel, Maine
>RV-6 N827GB
>painted wings tonite, leaving the shop for the airport next week or so.
>
>
>
>
>
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.doitnow.com/~rv8er
Waiting on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
This is one of those insurance renewal experience letters. Today
I shopped around for new quotes. I called aopa (AON) first,
since they cover me, already. I asked for 30,000 hull and 1
million liability including medical. He came back with a quote
of 1130.00 total premium. I called Skysmith. He said through
AIG it would cost me 935 for the same limits. I called aopa back
and told him Skysmith beat his quote quite a bit by going through
AIG. Aopa man said he didn't know AIG insured rv-4's. Aopa
called me back 2 hours later and said he talked to AIG and can
give me the same coverage for 800 per year. I told this to
SKysmith and he said he didn't understand how AOPA got a cheaper
rate than he did, so he called aig back himself. Skysmith called
me back with the same 800 dolllar per year quote. Avemco wanted
1560 per year for same coverage. I am very happy with 800 per
year. I guess what I am trying to say is, don't think your
broker knows everything and everyone when it comes to insuring
experimentals. Don't be afraid to challenge him, or ask
questions. For once it worked for me. Michael.
BTW: I had a major paperwork/title problem with my plane a
couple months ago. I found out about it when my permanent
registration didn't come to me, after the extra 90 day extension
they gave me, without explanation, ran out. The deceased former
owners' son signed the bill of sale (he wasn't the legal executor
of the estate) and the FAA caught it when the DAR turned all my
paperwork in. They sat on it for 6 months with no word to me
about what was wrong. I found Aerospace Reports on the internet
and called them. They straightened it all out 10 times faster
than I could have, with the FAA and the former owners estate, and
only charged 200.00. Very good people to talk to if you have a
problem like mine. Second only to Van's. Of course.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Walmart Baggage Door Locks; RV-8 |
| From: | n41va(at)Juno.com (Von Alexander) |
Listers;
I am installing my forward baggage door, and since you don't get the
actual lock in the kit, I went to the locksmith to see if he had one. He
did, but the price of $10.00 seemed high to me. I went across the street
to Walmart, and lo and behold, they have them for $2.99! And by looking
through the rack of them, I found another set for the canopy that has the
same key pattern. So for $6.00, I am all set. The baggage door lock
went in perfect today. If you buy the ignition switch from Vans, you get
these locks with it, but I already had my ignition switch, and as far as
I can see, they are not available separately from Vans. Maybe this will
help somebody.
Von Alexander
RV-8
N41VA(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Type-S Vs. Standard Cowl |
Scott, I'm sorry about the ouch! But, then if you hadn't confessed, the
rest of the world wouldn't have been the wiser!
Actually, I certainly didn't intend to point a finger at anyone, simply to
emphasize what you have already agreed to, that finishing the type S cowl
takes some additional effort. I didn't know about the hand lay-up on the -9
cowl. But I do know that you had a lot of trouble cleaning it because it
was flown quite a bit without any finish on it. This might also have
contributed to the resulting difficulties in eliminating the pinholes, which
is something that builders using this type cowl might note. Thanks for
again mentioning the Polyfiber Smooth Prime product as that is what I intend
to try.
Les (trying to wipe the s--t off my face) Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>
> The type S is full
>>of
>>pinholes all over (check out the RV-9 cowl finish) and many voids,
>>etc. in
>>the non-core area (around the oil dip stick access door particularly).
>
>>Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA
>>
>>
>>
>Ouch!!!
>Thanks a bunch for pointing that out to the world Les :-)
>I'm the one that did a good portion of the work on that airplane
>including finishing the cowl.
>In all fairness, that cowl was one of the first preproduction prototypes
>which was done using honeycomb core and epoxy wet lay-up instead of
>prepreg.
>The type of pinholes this produced are nothing like what is in the Type S
>cowl.
>Scott McDaniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Primers (For Fuel!) |
I suspect there are flaws with my system, but I followed another RV-6 and
did not put a primer in at all,
I have an O-360 and it starts great every time, I just jazz the throttle a
few times and it fires right up. This works cold or really hot after a
quick refueling. Probably will have some snags with colder weather
possibly, but so far so good.
Marcus
RV-6 22.6 hours, 2.4 to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Main Wing Spar |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>SCOTT R MCDANIELS wrote:
>> As for installing 3/16" rivets... unless I've forgotten something, I
>> believe all of the 3/16" holes get AN3 bolts, not rivets.
>Lower spar cap gets rivits, upper with angles get bolts.
>
>Finn
>
>
Your Right!
It seems like so long ago already that we were working on this.
I believe it is an option to use bolts instead of rivets in this
location,
if you are willing to except the extra weight.
Call and ask someone in the office to be sure (if you are interested in
that option).
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 webpage update |
Greetings listers,
I have added a few RV8 fuselage pics to my webpage. They look a bit
grainy (my scanner and I are having a "spat") but I'd rather build da
plane than fiddle with da page! Future updates will be done with our new
digital camera. Wow..whatta cool gadget.
Oh, one more thing, are there any other RV8 builders in New Mexico out
there lurking? I'm gettin' lonely here!
Adios,
Brian Denk
RV8 #379
preparing fuse skins for final installation.
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacBooze(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elec trim installation/9v Battey |
Just hooked up the Mac servo (elec trim sys) to a 9v battery and it works
perfectly. Ran the trim rod aft. The servo and cover plate now fit well in the
elevator. Thanks to the Gentleman who suggested this just a couple of days
ago.
Greg
-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Primers (For Fuel!) |
aircraft spruce cat. page 152 top right 1997 - 1998 catalog.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
Dear Brian,
Why a high EGT when mag fails? Seems like with no fire it would be
lower..
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, mounting wings
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Primers (For Fuel!) |
<< Where did you get your primer? I looked in all the catalogs that I have,
even aircraft spruce, and can't find one anywhere. >>
Paul, are you trying to read without your bifocals again? The primer valve
p/n 05-29823 is shown on pg 156 in the new catalog. It is currently $38.30.
If you have an older catalog, try looking in the index under fuel, primers.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. King" <skywalk(at)earthlink.net> |
I tried sending unsubscribe to the e-mail add. but server said it was
still want to unscribe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Engine Primers (For Fuel!) |
The only minor problem with this is that since the fuel is going to the carby
jets you may have slightly increased your chances of an intake manifold fire if
you overdoe the priming.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Primers (For Fuel!)
Date: 17-09-98 22:25
I suspect there are flaws with my system, but I followed another RV-6 and
did not put a primer in at all,
I have an O-360 and it starts great every time, I just jazz the throttle a
few times and it fires right up. This works cold or really hot after a
quick refueling. Probably will have some snags with colder weather
possibly, but so far so good.
Marcus
RV-6 22.6 hours, 2.4 to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William G. Knight" <wknight(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Induction Fire & Engine Priming |
Listers,
Had an induction fire a few weeks ago on my -6 with O-360 and C/S as a
result of overpriming and pass this info along to everyone.
Had to idle for about 30 minutes at Teterboro (NJ) after getting VFR
clearance to depart. I was about number 15 for departure behind a host of
exec jets.
Got to the end of the runway and the engine suddenly died, probably due
to vapor lock. Tried to re-start but was unsuccessful. Having removed the
primer lines, etc. installed by the builder, the engine did not have a
manual primer so I cracked the throttle a few times as I used to do on my
Siai Marchetti SF-260 which also had no manual primer. This time, however, I
did not get a start but, after I shut down and stopped trying to start I
noticed smoke coming from front of cowling. Did not have fire extinguisher
readily at hand so I called ground control and they sent fire truck which
arrived in a minute or two. The fire burned out forward part of air box and
front of lower cowl and melted alternator belt plus other, thankfully, minor
damage.
In discussing this with FAA FSDO, Vans people, and former Siai Marchetti
importer (who is also A&P/IA, DAR, DME, and former USAF and American
Airlines pilot) determined that:
1. I apparently over-primed engine with acclerator pump and the excess
fuel "caught" when I attempted to start.
2. The engine installation I have does not have fuel drain tube in air
box as the Siai Marchetti SF-260 does so excess fuel stays put.
3. Van's people tell me the RV-6 air box instructions or other plans
state that a drain tube is recommended but I couldn't find any mention of it
in the plans I have.
4. A possibly stuck float in the carburator may have caused initial
engine stoppage.
5. Also a possibility is vapor lock although the gascolator is shielded
and cooled by air and the fuel lines are all teflon-S/S braid and covered in
"firesafe". I had not experienced this problem before but I had also not had
such a long idling period on the ground.
To remedy, I fabricated drain hole in aft bottom of air box just inside
air filter and epoxied short piece of aluminum tubing into place. This
attaches to plastic tube which passes through lower cowl. Thus all excess
fuel is vented overboard very quickly as with type-certificated Siai
Marchetti design. I would not recommend manual (accelerator pump) priming
without this addition.
I appreciate any comments and thoughts. Call me at 561-272-6420 if you
have questions.
Bill Knight
air box should have drain tube for excess fuel similar to Siai Marchetti
design.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Revision 8 Books are printed . . . |
We got a call from the print shop yestereday evening. The
books are done. We'll begin shipping the backlog of
orders this weekend . . . should have them all out by
middle of next week. We've switched to Priority Mail for
all new book shipments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gar Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
.wa.us>
>
>Dear Brian,
>
>Why a high EGT when mag fails? Seems like with no fire it would be
>lower..
>
>Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, mounting wings
>Seattle area
With only one plug firing, the mixture in the cylinder does not burn as
efficiently (as designed) , and consequently some of the fuel is still
burning as it exits through the exhaust port into the manifold where the
probe is located. Hence the higher EGT. You can quickly confirm this by
switching off a mag, although you should not try this on take off. Don't
ask how I know. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
> I have seen many fiberglass wing tips with a lot of warpage. Some
>say it comes from forcing the wing tip in place, not trimed properly. Other
>have said not true, they will warp unless re-enforced. One fellow said he
>put fiberglass re-enforcement strips from the leading edge to the trailing
>edge, top and bottom. I noticed one RV-4 with four rows rivets running
>cross wise from the wing to the tip, top and bottom.
>
> What have you RVers that are flying found to be the problem and/or
fix?
>Denny Harjehausen
>RV-6 wing fairings
>Lebanon, OR
Denny,
As you've stated, some of Van's fiberglass parts are not as good as the
could be. My tips were 1/4" shy of matching up with the ailerons, as well,
so I added some material to the trailing edge. Hopefully, the tips in
newer kits are of better quality.
My tips were not as smooth as I would have liked so I put span-wise hat
sections of foam and fiberglass on the top sides of the tips. I used
epoxy. The tips are made out of polyester. Now, after 3 1/2 years, you
can see where the hat sections are located. Differences in the two
materials, I suppose. I think the polyester continues to shrink for a long
time. After 1 1/2 to 2 years, my previously very smooth cowling started to
show a bit of weave. Now, it shows a lot of weave. The empenage fairing
that I made out of epoxy shows no weave.
If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't do anything. Anything you do
will add additonal weight and building time. If you do decide to do
something, I sure wouldn't rivet stiffners to fiberglass. I'd think that
eventually, the paint might crack around the rivets.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, Wyoming RV-6 N369X 450 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Primers (For Fuel!) |
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> I suspect there are flaws with my system, but I followed another RV-6 and
> did not put a primer in at all,
> I have an O-360 and it starts great every time, I just jazz the throttle a
> few times and it fires right up. This works cold or really hot after a
> quick refueling.
This is a simple approach but one with a greater risk of fire. An acquaintance
of
mine with an RV-6A had an intake fire on engine start using this approach. You
can minimize the risk by ensuring that your prop is turning before you "jazz" the
throttle.
I decided to use an electric primer solenoid; I bought it from Aircraft Spruce.
A
friend of mine found a switch with off - on - momentary [on] positions that
operates both the fuel pump (in the on position) and the primer solenoid (in the
[on]) position, neat, effective, and convenient.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Noel E Drew <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Empenage adjustment |
I made comment in a posting a few weeks ago on the subject of seeking more speed
through the adjustment of my horizontal stab. to better align the elevator.
This arose from the view I had, while trimmed for top speed, of the counterbalance
of the elevator sitting about 3/8 of an inch above the top surface of the
horizontal stab. This seemed to equate with drag so I shimmed the front support
of the horizontal stab. by 1/16th of an inch and achieved a flat surface at
top speed. The fairing beneath the horizontal stab hardly needed any gap filling
and the fibreglass fairing still fits as well (or badly) as it did before.
I may have achieved a better speed but it is hard to tell.
Noel Drew
RV6 ZU-APF
South Africa
noeldrew(at)iafrica.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cappucci, Louis" <Louis.Cappucci(at)gs.com> |
| Subject: | Induction Fire & Engine Priming |
>
> Listers,
>
> Had an induction fire a few weeks ago on my -6 with O-360 and C/S as a
> result of overpriming and pass this info along to everyone.
>
> Had to idle for about 30 minutes at Teterboro (NJ) after getting VFR
> clearance to depart. I was about number 15 for departure behind a host of
> exec jets.
>
> Got to the end of the runway and the engine suddenly died, probably
> due
> to vapor lock. Tried to re-start but was unsuccessful. Having removed the
> primer lines, etc. installed by the builder, the engine did not have a
> manual primer so I cracked the throttle a few times as I used to do on my
> Siai Marchetti SF-260 which also had no manual primer. This time, however,
> I
> did not get a start but, after I shut down and stopped trying to start I
> noticed smoke coming from front of cowling. Did not have fire extinguisher
> readily at hand so I called ground control and they sent fire truck which
> arrived in a minute or two. The fire burned out forward part of air box
> and
> front of lower cowl and melted alternator belt plus other, thankfully,
> minor
> damage.
without getting into the particular procedures of a hot start, RV vs.
marchetti, etc., why did you attempt to restart the engine? were you going
flying if it restarted? if i had an engine failure on the ground, i don't
think i would try to restart without doing some
investigating/troubleshooting first to determine the cause and see if the
problem is something that can be corrected from the cockpit (i.e. switches
and levers) versus some mechanical failure. If i had any doubts about
whether or not the problem had been fixed, i certainly would not go flying,
and i probably wouldn't even try to restart to taxi back unless i had to.
obviously, something was wrong with your engine. and while the fire probably
was due to overpriming, it may have been something else, likely in the fuel
delivery system, very possibly related to the initial failure, which may or
may not have been vapor lock. something to think about...not a flame, you've
had enough of the real ones ;-), just my two cents.
thanks for the info. glad to see there were no injuries or major damage.
Louis Cappucci
RV-6A QB in transit
Mamaroneck, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rodney Boyd" <rboyd(at)dcccd.edu> |
| Subject: | fuel tank sealer -Reply |
I thought that since I am here in Dallas I would call K-C Aviation to see if they
had a toll free phone number.
According to the lady I spoke with, last month K-C was bought out and the name
is now Gulfstream Aviation. She did not know of a toll free number and toll free
info does not have a listing under either name.Sooo... here's the only phone
number I know of..... (214)350-4177
Well, I called back and spoke to one of the reps in the parts dept. He tried finding
"Super Koropon" in his database and said they did not have anything by that name.
Rod
>>> 09/17/98 06:07pm >>>
Super Koropon....where to buy it....mentions kc aviation in Dallas....but no phone
number hilljw(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Fire & Engine Priming |
My instructions do not mention anything about an excess fuel drain hole
or other devices either. Do we have a safety problem, or was this a rare
instance?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Fasching" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
My RV-6A wing tips were REALLY bad. One was "level" but at least one
inch low, below the aileron/flap line. The other one was canted so that
one rear edge aligned with the aileron/flap line, the outer corner
"drooped" about 1.5-inches. I had to cut them open, rebuild with new
glass cloth/resin and sand everything over and over to get it smooth. As
a result I managed to build in non-symetrical shapes on each wing. As a
result I have a permanet need to have ailerons slightly offset in flight
to compensate for the different 'lift' characteristics of each wing tip.
Overall the tips were plain junk, although I believe Van has since
changed suppliers. I think the tips were the worst part of the entire
kit. I sent pictures of the distorted tips to Van with no response
received.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Vans wiring conduit |
Listers,
I have ordered Vans electrical wiring kit, which comes with some
wiring conduit. I plan to use that conduit in the wings. The
accessories catalog lists the outside diameter as 0.810 inches. Can
I simply make 13/16 holes (0.812) in the ribs and use some RTV to
hold the ends, or do the holes in the end ribs need to be a bit
smaller, and if so, what size?
I want to drill the holes in the ribs now so I can rivet the sketeton together.
Thanks,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Good explanation! If you don't believe, then go to altitude, lean for peak,
and turn off a mag. The temp will rise even further.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gar Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Date: Friday, September 18, 1998 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: High EGT
>
>
>>
>>Dear Brian,
>>
>>Why a high EGT when mag fails? Seems like with no fire it would be
>>lower..
>>
>>Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, mounting wings
>>Seattle area
>With only one plug firing, the mixture in the cylinder does not burn as
>efficiently (as designed) , and consequently some of the fuel is still
>burning as it exits through the exhaust port into the manifold where the
>probe is located. Hence the higher EGT. You can quickly confirm this by
>switching off a mag, although you should not try this on take off. Don't
>ask how I know. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cabaniss" <bcabanis(at)hotmail.com> |
Please un-subscribe bcabanis(at)hotmail.com.
Thanks
Bob Cabaniss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randall Henderson <randall(at)edt.com> |
Denny,
Most RVs' wing tips tend to warp to varying degrees after a while due in
part to the heat from the sun.
________________________________________________________________________________
most of them end up looking worse than the warping does! In particular,
I have seen a number of planes with stiffeners riveted to the top inside
of the tips. The area where the stiffeners are usually "translates" to
form noticable ripples on the outside.
Probably the most successful fix is to bond a layer of foam (1/8" to
1/4") to the inside top of the tips.
Personally I'm not going to worry about it. Some wavyness in the tips
doesn't look that bad to me anyhow. At least not bad enough to go for
the extra work and weight of bonding on a layer of foam.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:17:39 -0700 (PDT)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Tips
>
>
> I have seen many fiberglass wing tips with a lot of warpage. Some
> say it comes from forcing the wing tip in place, not trimed properly. Other
> have said not true, they will warp unless re-enforced. One fellow said he
> put fiberglass re-enforcement strips from the leading edge to the trailing
> edge, top and bottom. I noticed one RV-4 with four rows rivets running
> cross wise from the wing to the tip, top and bottom.
>
> What have you RVers that are flying found to be the problem and/or
fix?
>
>
>
> Have a good one!
> Denny Harjehausen
> RV-6 wing fairings
> Lebanon, OR
>
>
>
>
Randall Henderson
Engineering Design Team, Inc.
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I am now at the point where I am rewiring the wings for landing lights etc. I am
ditching the wingtips and would like to know if someone makes a good set of
fiberglas wingtips with lights, strobes, and markers built in that everyone is
happy with. I would rather not cut holes in the wings for landing lights if I can
help it.
Joe Walker
Rebuilding Wreaked RV6
Houston, Texas
John W. Fasching wrote:
> My RV-6A wing tips were REALLY bad. skip Van with no response
> received.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rodney Boyd" <rboyd(at)dcccd.edu> |
FWIW I found this web site awhile back and they have/make helmets for aviation,
racing, motorcycling, etc....
<http://www.pilot-avionics.com/>
Rod
Dallas,TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernie Billing <Ernie.Billing(at)seagatesoftware.com> |
Easier to check at runup. In my Cardinal RG, I check for an EGT rise in all
cylinders on each mag - usually one bar on the GEM. A drop usually
indicates a fouled plug and is usually cleaned out during the prop cycle.
Ernie Billing
1976 C177RG - N55HS
RV6 Emp soon.
San Luis Obispo, CA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)accessus.net]
> Sent: Friday, September 18, 1998 11:38 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: High EGT
>
>
>
> Good explanation! If you don't believe, then go to altitude,
> lean for peak,
> and turn off a mag. The temp will rise even further.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gar Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, September 18, 1998 1:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: High EGT
>
>
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Dear Brian,
> >>
> >>Why a high EGT when mag fails? Seems like with no fire it would be
> >>lower..
> >>
> >>Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q, mounting wings
> >>Seattle area
> >With only one plug firing, the mixture in the cylinder does
> not burn as
> >efficiently (as designed) , and consequently some of the
> fuel is still
September 10, 1998 - September 18, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fk